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Collection  de 
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.TERNATJi.;:.'.'    ^O'.AR  ExPF.IHTION. 


REPORT 


•  ■V    THE 


PktKi.i,, 


hUxithlStatkI-xpedition 


I.A!)V  riv'- 


To 


!!,\V.  (.KIXXHLL  LAND, 


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.    (trKK  Ik        id 


\o!t  Nh    r. 


'      ".)  I  S  C,  VON: 

^    ,   I  N  '.       1  K  r  I  CE. 

I  S  .S  8 . 


International  Polar  Expedition. 


REPORT 


ON    IHE 


Proceedings  of  the  United  States  Expedition 


TO 


LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY,  GRINNELL  LAND, 


BV 


ADOLPHUS  W.  GREELY, 

First  lieutenant,  fifth  cavalry,  acting  signal  officer  and 
assistant,  commanding  the  expedition. 


u 

1 


VOLUME  I. 


WASHI  NGTON: 

GOVERNMKNT     I'RINTING     OFFICE. 
1888. 


i^^ndi^i^^^a^.A> 


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( 


In  the  House  of  Representatives,  yune  17,  1886. 
Resolved  by  the  House  of  Representatives  [the  Senate  concurring,  That  4,500  copies,  with  the  necessary 
illustrations,  be  printed  of  the  Report  on  the  Proceedings  of  the  International  Polar  Expedition  to  Lady 
Franklin  Bay,  Grinnell  Land,  by  First  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Greely,  Fifth  Cavalry,  United  States  Army,  Acting 
Signal  Officer;  1,250  copies  of  which  shall  be  for  use  of  the  Senate,  2,500  copies  for  use  of  House,  and 
750  copies  for  distribution  by  the  Signal  Office  to  foreign  libraries  and  Arctic  explorers. 
(II) 


CONTE  NTS 


(V01.UME  I.) 


Reporter  the  commanding  officer . . . — I 

APPENDICES. 

1.  War  Department  order  assigning  Lieutenant  Grcel/  to  command 97 

2.  War  Department  order  organizing  the  expedition - -. 97 

3.  Instructions  from  the  Signal  Office  reganling  the  etpedition 98 

4.  List  of  commissary  subsistence  stores,  with  rcmarlts  thereon 108 

5.  Records  left  at  and  taken  from  Southeast  Gary  Island,  August,  1881 109 

6.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  report  of  trip  to  Life  Boat  Cove no 

7.  Records  taken  fr   n  and  left  at  Washington  Irving  Island,  August,  l88l ,_ no 

8.  Records  obtainr    at  Discovery  Harbor,  August  I,  1881 in 

9.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  Water-course  Bay,  August,  1881 _ n> 

10.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  re(|uest  to  be  relieved,  with  Lieutenant  Greely's  indorsement na 

1 1 .  Orders  No.  5,  relieving  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  ordering  him  to  report  to  the  Chief  Signal  Ofticer nj 

12.  Orders  No.  6  amending  Orders  No.  5 nj 

Ij.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  request  for  modification  of  Orders  No.  6 . n4 

14.  Onlers  No.  8  modifying  Orders  No.  6 n4 

15.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  n!port  on  exploration  of  St.  Patrick  Valley n4 

16.  Sergeant  Brainard's  report  establishing  Depot  B  near  Cape  Beechey ns 

17.  Sergeant  Jewell's  meteorological  report  in  connection  with  trip  establishing  Depot  B 117 

18.  Sergeant  Gardiner's  report  of  trip  to  Cape  Murchison n9 

19.  Sergeant  Linn's  report  on  moving  Depot  A  to  Cap*  Murchison n9 

20.  Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  for  overland  journey  to  Lincoln  Bay 120 

21.  Report  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  trip  to  Lincoln  Bay 121 

22.  Report  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  on  journey  to  the  Bellows 124 

23.  Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  on  exploring  Archer  Fiord . . 126 

24.  Report  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  attempted  trip  down  Archer  Fiord . 126 

25.  Report  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  on  sledge  journey  to  Depot  B  near  Cape  Beechey 127 

26.  Report  of  Sergeant  Rice  on  sledge  journey  to  Depot  B,  near  Cai>e  Beechey ■ 129 

27.  Onlers  to  Dr.  Pavy  to  proceed  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry . 130 

28.  Report  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  trip  towards  Cape  Joseph  Henry _ 131 

29.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  St.  Patrick  Valley 133 

30.  Sergeant  Rice's  report  on  camp  equipage 134 

31.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  to  attempt  crossing  of  Robeson  Channel 134 

32.  Lieutenant  Loclcwood's  report  on  attempted  crossing  of  Robeson  Channel 135 

33.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  for  journey  to  Wrangel  Bay 138 

34.  Dr.  Pavy's  report  on  journey  to  Wrangel  Bay ..., 139 

35.  Dr.  Pavy's  supplementary  report  under  Appendices  27  and  33 141 

36.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  for  preliminary  journey  to  Cape  Beechey . . 14a 

37.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  36 . ... 143 

(HI) 


1 


JV  APPENDICES. 

38.  Lieutenant  Ixickwood's  orders  for  journey  to  Thank  God  Harl)or 144 

39.  Lieutenant  Lockwood'i  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  38  . 144 

40.  English  records  obtained  at  Thank  Gud  Harltor .. . 149 

41.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  to  carry  provisions  to  Greenland  coast 156 

43.  Dr.  Pavy's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  41 156 

43.  Sergeant  Brainard's  orden  to  move  boat  to  Greenland  coast 158 

44.  Sergeant  Brainard's  report  on  trip  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  43 . 159 

45.  Sergeant  Jewell's  report  on  trip  to  Lincoln  Bay  while  supporting  Dr.  Pavy 163 

46.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  for  journey  northward  over  Polar  Ocean 165 

47.  Dr.  Pavy's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  46 166 

48.  Sergeant  Rice's  report  on  detached  trip  from  Lincoln  Bay  to  Fort  Conger  and  return 178 

49.  Private  Long's  re|K>rt  on  trip  into  Archer  Fiord - 179 

50.  Sergeant  Israel's  report  on  trip  into  the  Bellows 181 

51.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  to  explore  north  coast  of  Greenland i8a 

52.  Supplementary  instructions  for  exploration  of  north  coast  of  Greenland 183 

53.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  exploration  of  north  coast  of  GreenLind . 185 

54.  Report  of  Private  Biederbick's  trip  into  Black  Rock  Vale .  233 

55.  Sergeant  Linn's  report  of  trip  into  Black  Rock  Vale —  233 

5O.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  of  launch  trip  up  Archer  Fiord ..  234 

57.  Lieutenant  Lockwootl's  report  of  launch  trip  up  Chandler  Fiord 236 

58.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  to  proceed  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay 237 

59.  Sergeant  Elison's  reiwrt  of  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay 237 

60.  Sergeant  Brainard's  report  of  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay 239 

61.  Orders  establishing  day  of  "Thanksgiving" 242 

62.  Dr.  Pavy's  letter  of  March  8,  1883 242 

63.  Lieutenant  Grecly's  answer  to  Dr.  Pavy's  letter  of  March  8,  1883 243 

64.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  for  preliminary  journey  northward,  1883 243 

65.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  64 244 

66.  Sergeant  Jewell's  report  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  relative  to  journey  ordered  in  Apjiendix  No.  64 246 

67.  Orders  to  Lieuten-int  Lockwood  for  exploration  of  Greenland,  1883 247 

68.  Sergeant  Rice's  orders  for  journey  to  Thank  God  Harbor 248 

69.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  for  journey,  as  surgeon,  to  Thank  God  Harbor 248 

70.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  rejxjrt  on  trip  to  North  Greenland . 249 

71.  Sergeant  Jewell's  report  on  tidal  and  meteorological  observations  made  on  trip  to  North  Greenland 255 

72.  .Sergeant  Rice's  report  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor 259 

73.  Dr.  Pavy's  medical  rejiort  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor ... 264 

74.  Orders  for  Sergeant  Jewell  for  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey . 264 

75.  Rejiort  of  Sergeant  Jewell  on  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey ... 264 

76.  Orders  for  Sergeant  Gardiner  for  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Baird , 265 

77.  Orders  for  Sergeant  Israel  for  astronomical  observations  at  Cape  Baird ,. 266 

78.  Report  of  Sergeant  Israel  on  observations  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  77 266 

79.  Rcixjrt  of  Sergeant  Gardiner  on  tidal  and  ice  observations  at  Cai)e  Baird 268 

80.  RejKirt  of  Sergeant  Jewell  on  paleocrystic  ice . 268 

81.  Orders  to  Sergeant  Jewell  for  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey . , . . 269 

82.  Report  of  Sergeant  Jewell  on  tidal  observations  at  Ch\k  Beechey 269 

83.  Sergeant  Brainard's  report  on  journey  to  Cape  Cracroft 270 

84.  Sergeant  Gardiner's  report  on  journey  to  Cape  Cracroft 272 

85.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  to  cross  Grinnell  Land . 274 

86.  Lieutenant  Ix)ckwood's  report  on  the  crossing  of  Grinnell  Land 274 

87.  Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  relative  to  natural  history  data . 297 

88.  Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  relative  to  botanical  specimens 297 

89.  Orders  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  relieve  Dr.  Pavy  as  naturalist 298 

90.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  natural  history  specimens  received  from  Dr.  Pavy 298 

9 1 .  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  letter  and  report  on  natural  history  specimens,  June  30,  1 883 300 

92.  Sergeant  Brainard's  report  on  Lieute.iant  Lockwood's  trip  towards  the  United  States  Mountain  range 317 

93.  Orders  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  receive  medical  stores  from  Dr.  Pavy 319 

94.  Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy  asking  the  detail  of  Steward  Biederbick 320 

95.  Reply  of  Lieutenant  Greely  to  Dr.  Pavy's  request  for  detail  of  Steward  Biederbick 320 

96.  Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy's,  dated  July  18,  1883 320 

97.  Answer  to  letter  referred  to  in  Appendix  No.  96 . . . . . . 321 

98.  Dr.  Pavy's  refusal  to  turn  over  his  diary . „ . . ...... -...........-.,  ...,,....  321 


i 


APPENDICES. 


Pao- 

99.  Letter  tniumiiting  chargcx  to  Dr.  P«vy 3JI 

100.  Letter  limiting  br.  Pavy's  bounili  while  in  arrest 333 

101.  Order  for  the  abandonment  of  station  at  Fort  Conger... 333 

loj.  List  of  lubsistence  stores  abandoned - 333 

103.  Medical  reports . .... — . 334 

104.  Record  left  at  Cape  Baird 350 

105.  Records  left  in  abandoned  boats ........ ..................... 3$l 

106.  Records  found  on  Urevoort  Island  (deposited  by  Lieutenant  Uarlington  and  Trivate  Beebe) 351 

107.  Plan  of  winter  quarters,  Camp  Clay I'acc  jiage  354 

108.  Sergeant  Frederick's  report  of  November  journey  to  Cape  Isabella........ 354 

109.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  letter,  February  I9,  1884...... ...... . . 356 

no.  Private  Long's  journey  into  Hayes  Sound . . . 357 

111.  Sergeant  Frederick's  report  of  journey  to  Baird  Inlet,  April,  1884 . 358 

112.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  letter,  April  22,  1884 361 

113.  Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy's,  April  25,  1884 361 

114.  Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy,  April  27,  1884 _ 36a 

115.  Lieutenant  Greely's  certificate  to  Dr.  Pavy . 363 

Ik6.  General  certificate  to  Dr.  Pavy 363 

117.  Letter  of  Lieutenant  Greely  on  Dr.  Pavy . 363 

118.  Order  for  Private  Henry's  execution . 363 

119.  Report  of  Private  Henry's  execution.  . 363 

120.  Letter  of  Secretary  of  War  approving  Lieutenant  Greely's  course  regarding  execution  of  PrivaK  Henry 364 

131.  List  of  deaths 365 

122.  Order  relative  to  Private  Henry,  dated  June  5,  1884 365 

123.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  journal  from  August  3,  1883 366 

124.  Sergeant  Brainard's  journal  from  besetment 441 

135.  Portion  of  diary  of  Private  Roderick  R.  Schneider,  found  on  bank  of  Mississippi  River,  in  Missouri,  and  corre- 
spondence relating  thereto  with  Mr.  J.  A.  Ockerson 529 

126.  Description  of  drift-wood 534 

1 27.  List  of  photographs  and  description  of  Eskimo  relics  in  photographic  plates 535 

128.  List  of  maps  and  charts . . 536 

Index  to  Vol.  I... 537 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

(Volume  I.) 


FULL-PAGE  ILLUSTRATIONS, 

(Engraved  by  the  Moss  Engraving  Company  from  photographs  by  Svrgt.  (ieorge  W.  Rice,  photographer  of  the  Expedition.) 

Our  house  at  G>nger  (west  side),  March,  1882 Frontispiece. 

Face  page. 

Godhavn,  Greenland,  July  19, 1881 -.  1 

Ritenbenk,  Greenland,  July  21,  1881 2 

Proven,  North  Greenland,  July,  1881.. 4 

IJanish  Eskimo  at  Proven,  North  Greenland 4 

Site  of  Polaris  House,  occupied  in  1872,  at  Life  Boat  Cove,  July,  1881 6 

Proteus  in  ice,  entrance  to  Discovery  Harbor,  August  12,  l88r._ 6 

Musk-cattle  killed  on  Ml.  Cartmel,  near  Conger,  August  12,  1881 8 

Head  of  musk-ox  killed  near  Conger 8 

Coal  mine.  Water-course  Ravine,  with  reflected  image 12 

View  of  ice  from  Cape  Murchison,  looking  towards  Thank  God  Harbor,  June,  1882 29 

Musk  calves,  October,  1882.    Captured  near  Conger,  June,  1882.     Uy  Seigeant  Frederick 30 

Floeberg  in  St.  Patrick  Bay,  June,  1882 44 

Pressed-up  Floelierg,  Breakwater  Point,  I^dy  Franklin  Hay,  June,  1 882  : - -  44 

Chandler  Fiord,  looking  westward;  Ida  Bay  to  extreme  left 236 

l*aleocrystic  ice  in  Robeson  Channel 246 

Tide-gauge  at  Cape  Baird  (from  a  sketch  by  Sergeant  Gardiner) 268 

Eskimo  relics  found  in  vicinity  of  Fort  Conger.    PI.  I 536 

Eskimo  relics  found  at  junction  of  Lake  Hazen  and  Ruggles  River,  June,  1882.     PI.  II 536 

Eskimo  relics  found  at  and  in  vicinity  of  Basil  Norris  and  Sun  Bays.     Pi.  HI 536 

Eskimo  relics;  greater  number  found  south  side  of  Lake  Hazen,  June,  1882.    PI.  IV . 536 

Eskimo  relics  found  at  Cape  Baird.     PI.  V 536 

Modem  Greenland  and  ancient  Eskimo  sled.     PI.  VI 536 

Arctic  Highlander  from  Cape  York  (from  a  photograph  by  Relief  Expedition) 536 

Arctic  Highlanders  from  North  Star  Settlement,  Saunders  Island  (from  a  photograph  by  Relief  Expedition) 536 

ILLUSTRATIONS  GROUPED  IN  PLATES. 
(Engraved  by  the  Moss  Engraving  Company  from  sketches  by  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood.) 

Pl.  I. — Cape  Britannia 188 

Victoria  Inlet,  from  near  Cape  Britannia . . 188 

>v             Beaumont  Island,  from  near  Cape  Britannia 188 

Stephenson  Island,  from  Cape  Britannia . 188 

Beaumont  Island,  from  Cape  Britannia... . 188 

Pl.  IL — Elison  Island _ 188 

View  looking  into  Chipp  Inlet , . 188 

Cape  Alexander  Ram'ay . ... 188 

Shoe  [Mary  Murray]  Island ....... 188 

Farthest  Point  beyond  [to  the  east]  Shoe  [Mary  Murray]  Island .......,.,..._...,,....... 188 

(VIM 


VIIT 


Plate  1 1 

Fig. 

I. 

Fic. 

2. 

Fic. 

3- 

Plate  II 

: 

FU!. 

4- 

Fic 

5- 

Fic 

6. 

Plate  III: 

Fic 

7. 

Fkj. 

8. 

Fic 

9- 

Fin. 

lO. 

Plate  IV: 

Fic 

II. 

Fic 

12. 

Fic 

13- 

Fig. 

14. 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Vim  page. 

Face  of  glacier  above  Emma  Bay  (from  tent),  April  30,  1883 278 

Flank  view  of  same,  from  southeast  comer,  May  i,  1883 ..  278 

M»r<leGlace,"  Chinese  Wall,"  just  west  of  "Divide,"  looking  east  (at  Lake  Harry),  May  18,1883 ^7* 

Mer  lie  Glace, "  Chinese  Wall,"  where  first  approached,  just  east  of  Camp  XI,  May  10,1883 ^7^ 

Glacier  "  Floebert;,"  head  of  Greely  Fiord  (Antoinette  Bay),  May  13,  1883 . 278 

Offshoot  of  the  Mer  de  Glace  (the  same  as  Fig.  8),  near  head  of  lake  between  Camps  XII  and  XIII, 

May  12,  1883 278 

(JUcier  "  F"loel)erg,"  at  glacier  at  head  of  Greely  Fiord,  May  13,  1883 ..  278 

Glacier  entering  valley.  May  12,  1883 278 

I.ake,  glacier,  and  mountains,  from  west  end  of  lake,  C.imp  XIII,  May  12,  1883 278 

Glacier  and  cliffs,  from  east  end  of  lake,  May  12,  1883 278 

View  to  the  west  from  head  of  fiord.  May  13,  1883 278 

Vii  V  to  the  west  from  "  Farthest,"  May  14,1883 278 

Farthest  land  on  South  Side,  May  15,  1883 __ _ 278 

Head  of  fiord  from  "Farthest",  May  14,  1883 ^ 278 

ILLUSTRATION?  IN  THE  TEXT. 

(Engraved  by  the  Moss  Engraving  Comiiany  from  sketches.) 

P«ge. 

Coast  of  fiord  easi  of  .Stephen-son  Island.     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood) . .  202 

Coast  ahead  from  camp  beyond  Britannia.     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood) . 203 

"Farthest,"  from  the  west.     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood) 207 

Next  Point  beyond  "Farthest."     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood) 208 

Parhelia.     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood) 210 

Floeberg,  at  Cape  Baird,  showing  stratification.     (From  a  sketch  by  Sergeant  Gardiner) 273 

Section  of  face  of  glacier.     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood) 282 

Plan  of  winter  quarters  at  Camp  Clay.     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Greely) .     .    Face  page  354 

Plan  of  winter  quarters  at  Camp  Clay.     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Ixickwood) 394 

Orift-wood;  limb  of  a  cedar.     (From  a  .sketch  by  Lieutenant  Greely) 534 

Drift-wood;  branch  of  c  pine.     (From  a  sketch  by  Lieutenant  Greely) 534 

LIST  OF  MAPS  AND  CHARTS. 

Face  page. 

Map  of  country  immediately  surrounding  Fort  Conger .  10 

Map  showing      ift,  travel,  and  exploration  of  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition  from  besetment,  August  26,  1883, 

until  rescued,  June  22, 1884;  showing  also  discoveries  in  Buchanan  Strait 58 

Chart  of  North  Greenland  coast,  accompanying  re|K)rt  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  of  sledge  journey,  April  3  to  June  I, 
1882,  showing  discoveries  and  route  from  Fort  Conger  to  Ix>ckwood  Island  and  return  ;  also  showing  the  route  of 

preliminary  journey  in  March 186 

Chart  showing  excursion  of  steam-launch  La<(i'  Greely  during  the  summer  of  1882 236 

Chart  showing  route  of  sledge  expedition,  March  27  to  April  12,  1883 . 253 

Map  of  Grinnell  Land ... . At  end  of  volume. 


J 


' 


t 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


REPORT  OF  THH  COMMANDING  OFPICI-R. 


Washington,  D.  C, ///«<•  30,  1885. 
The  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Army: 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report  of  the  proceediujjs  of  the  Lady 
Franklin  Bay  expedition,  which  I  had  the  honor  to  command: 

The  station  on  the  shore  of  Lady  Franklin  Bay  was  established  for  work  of  scientific 
observations  and  exploration,  inider  the  provisions  of  the  acts  .  '"  Congress  approved  May  i, 

1880,  and  March  3,  i88r.  In  its  scientific  work  it  formed  one  of  the  circnmpolar  international 
stations,  which  grew  out  of  the  exertions  of  Lieut.  Cliarles  Weyprecht,  Austrian  Navy,  and 
which  were  finally  determined  upon  by  the  International  Polar  Conferences  of  Hamburg, 
Berne,  and  St.  Petersburg.  Eleven  nations  participated  in  this  great  work,  and  fourteen 
stations  were  occupied,  three  of  which  were  in  the  southern  hemisphere. 

I  was  assigned  to  the  connnand  of  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  expedition  by  the  Honorable 
the  Secretary  of  War,  March  11,  1881,  in  accordance  with  the  instructions  of  the  President. 
(Appendix  No.  i.)  The  formal  order  under  which  was  organized  the  expedition  to  establish 
the  station,  was  General  Orders  No.  35,  War  Department,  A.  O.  O.,  April  12,  1881.  (Ap- 
pendix No.  2.)  In  accordance  with  that  order  the  steam  sealer  Proteus,  having  been  inspected 
and  favorably  reported  on  by  Lieut.  J.  F.  Merry,  U.  S.  N. ,  was  hired  for  the  transportation  of 
the  party  from  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay.  Second  Lieut.  Frederick 
F.  Kislingbury,  Eleventh  Infantry,  and  Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood,  Twenty-third 
Infantry,  were  detailed  for  duty  with  the  expedition,  and  twenty-one  enlisted  men,  who  were 
either  selected  volunteers  from  the  Army,  or  specially  enlisted,  were  also  ordered  to  report  to 
me.  The  surgeon.  Octave  Pavy,  M.  D.,  who  had  been  contracted  with  for  a  similar  expedi- 
tion in  1880,  was  to  join  the  party  in  Greenland. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury  with  two  enlisted  men  sailed  from  New  York  about  June  i,  1881, 
to  superintend  the  proper  .stowing  of  the  cargo,  which  wa.s  to  be  done  in  accordance  with 
special  instructions  given  him  by  me.     Lieutenant  Lockwood  sailed  from  Baltimore  June  14, 

1881,  in  charge  of  the  greater  number  of  the  party,  taking  with  him  the  steam-launch  which 
had  been  kindly  furnished  the  expedition  through  the  courtesy  of  the  Honorable  the  Secretary 
of  the  Navy. 

I  sailed  with  the  scientific  observers  on  June  21  from  New  York,  and  the  entire  party 
assembled  at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  June  27,  except  Sergeant  Rice,  the  photographer, 
who,  having  been  sent  through  Canada  with  the  expectation  of  obtaining  additional  foot-gear 
for  the  expedition,  was  delayed  until  July  2.  On  July  4  the  party  took  quarters  on  board 
the  Proteus,  which  dropped  her  anchor  in  the  harbor  awaiting  certain  necessary  stores. 

1 


n 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  expedition  at  that  time  consisted  of  the  officers  and  men  named  in  Appendix  No.  3, 
except  Private  Roderick  R.  Schneider,  who  replaced  Corporal  Grimm,  a  deserter.  The 
general  scientific  and  other  instnictions  for  the  pariv  are  to  be  found  in  the  same  appendix 
(No.  3). 

Ample  field  supplies  and  medical  stores  had  been  furnished  by  the  Surgeon-General,  and 
a  stock  of  regixlation  clothing  and  camp  equipage  through  the  Quartermaster-General.  A 
liberal  and  excellent  supply  of  arms  and  ammunition,  both  service  and  special,  was  provided 
through  the  courtesy  of  the  Chief  of  Ordnance.  The  Chief  of  Engineers  furnished  such 
scientific  instruments  as  he  could  spare,  and  these  were  supplemented  to  a  certain  extent  by 
loans  from  the  Superintendent  of  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey.  Subsistence 
stores,  well  packed  and  of  excellent  quality,  were  furnished  for  .sale  by  the  Commissary- 
General  of  Subsistence.  These  connnissary  stores  were  furnished  under  the  supervision  of 
Maj.  John  P.  Hawkins,  in  accordance  with  the  special  instructions  of  the  Comniissar>'-General 
of  Subsistence,  and  I  have  deemed  it  my  duty  to  submit  in  Appendix  No.  4  a  list  of  the 
articles,  with  comments  on  their  quality  and  condition. 

Less  than  $6,000  of  the  original  appropriation  remained  after  the  charter  of  the  vessel, 
with  which  to  supplement  the  supplies  of  the  expedition  with  articles  indispensable  for  Arctic 
service,  which  were  not  within  the  province  of  the  regular  supply  departments  of  the  Army.  ^ 
While  the  stxni  was  insufficient  to  provide  the  articles  requisite  for  complete  comfort  and  sat- 
isfaction, yet  careful  consideration  and  rigid  economy  enabled  me  to  purcha.se  everything 
absolutely  essential  to  health  and  success.  Boats,  total  supply  of  coal,  spirits,  and  lime-juice 
formed  no  inconsiderable  part  of  these  indispensable  purchases.  The  expeditionary  supplies 
were  in  almost  inextricable  confusion  on  my  arrival  at  St.  John's,  and  to  have  re-.stowed 
them  would  have  entailed  an  expense  of  money  and  time  which  could  not  be  spared.  It 
was  also  a.scertained  beyond  a  doubt,  that  the  boiler  of  the  navy  launch  was  entirely  unsuited 
to  use  in  salt  water,  and  it  became  necessary  to  replace  it  at  St.  John's,  at  the  expeditionary 
expense,  by  a  boiler  of  another  pattern. 

During  our  enforced  stay  at  St.  John's,  this  expedition,  like  its  predecessors,  was  indebted 
for  valuable  a.ssistance  and  advice  to  Mr.  Thomas  N.  Molloy,  United  States  consul. 

The  last  stores  came  on  the  morning  of  July  7,  and  at  noon  we  pa.ssed  the  narrows  of  St. 
John's,  to  remain  for  three  years  without  direct  communication  from  the  outside  world. 

The  harbor  of  Godhavn,  Greenland,  was  reached  9  p.  m.  July  16.  The  voyage  was  made 
in  the  face  of  continual  adverse  winds,  with  cloudy  or  foggy  weather.  Two  strong  northerly 
gales  were  experienced,  during  which  the  ship  behaved  admirably.  No  ice  was  .seen  south  of 
Cape  Farewell,  except  a  few  icebergs  off  the  east  coast  of  Newfoundland  to  the  north  of  Funk 
Island.  A  thin  pack  of  stream  ice  was  fallen  in  with  off  the  Greenland  coast  the  evening  of 
July  12,  in  61°  30'  N.,  53°  30'  W.,  and  was  passed  through  in  about  four  hours.  A  second 
|)ack  was  met  with  the  next  day  in  62°  30'  N.,  53°  15'  W.,  and  was  passed  through  in  an 
hour.  Neither  stream  of  ice  offered  atiy  obstruction  to  free  passage,  or  caused  the  slightest 
delay.  Both  packs  consisted  of  ice-floes  varying  from  one  to  eiglit  feet  above  the  water. 
These  floes  originall\-  formed  part  of  the  Spitzbergen  Ice  Stream,  a  portion  of  which,  after 
reaching  Cape  Farewell  from  the  east  coast  of  Greenland,  is  carried  by  the  southerly  current 
into  Davis  Strait.  Along  the  lower  Greenland  coast  only  occasionally  icebergs  were  seen, 
but  in  Disco  Bay  over  a  hundred  were  in  sight  at  one  time. 

The  expedition  received  at  (iodhavn  official  and  personal  courtesies  from  Herr  Krarup 
Smith,  royal  inspector  of  North  Greenland.  He  delayed  for  a  day  his  departure  on  an  official 
inspecting  toiir  to  Proven  and  Upernivik,  in  order  to  ascertain  what  he  could  do  for  tlie  expe- 
dition. Hcpromi.sed  all  possible  aid  and  assistance  from  the  other  Danish  officials.  I  learned 
from  him  that  the  winter  of  i88o-'8i,  except  a  brief  period  of  cold  in  March,  had  been  one 
of  marked  and  unusual  mildness  in  Greenland. 


It 


o        — 


3      ^ 


§? 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  expedition  procured  at  Godhavn  twelve  dogs  and  a  large  quantity  of  dog-food  and 
some  seal-skins.  A  auantity  of  mattak  (the  skin  of  the  white  whale,  a  valuable  anti-scorbutic) 
and  a  few  articles  of  fur-clothing  were  obtained  by  barter — the  only  possible  manner.  The 
wife  of  Inspector  Smith  and  Mr.  Fleischer,  the  chief  trader  at  Godhavn,  were  of  material 
assistance  in  this  matter.  The  remains  of  the  house  purchased  in  1880,  which  was  stored  at 
this  point,  were  taken  on  board,  as  also  some  3,000  pounds  of  Hudson  Bay  pemmican,  which 
had  been  placed  at  my  disposal  by  H.  W.  Howgate. 

One  set  of  time  observations  were  obtained  at  the  only  hours  during  which  the  sun  shone 
while  the  vessel  was  at  Godhavn. 

On  July  20,  Dr.  Octave  Pavy,  having  reported,  was  contracted  with  as  acting  assistant 
surgeon  of  the  expedition. 

The  usual  courtesies  were  shown  the  expedition  at  Godhavn  and  other  Greenland  ports. 

The  Proteus  left  Godhavn  the  morning  of  the  21st  and  reached  Ritenbenk,  Greenland, 
the  same  day.  At  this  point  nine  dogs,  dog-food,  seal-skins,  and  other  minor  articles,  which 
had  been  collected  for  the  expedition  through  the  energetic  efforts  of  Dr.  Pavy,  were  pur- 
chased. Here  also  Mr.  Henry  Clay  joined  the  expedition,  in  the  position  of  Signal  Service 
employ^. 

A  fog  delaying  our  departure.  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  with  a  party,  was  sent  for  birds  to 
Arveprins  Island,  near  by,  where  he  obtained  sixty-five  guillemot  {Alca  arra). 

The  spring  of  1881  at  Ritenbenk  had  been  the  most  forward  one  for  years. 

The  Proteus  left  Ritenbenk  the  afternoon  of  July  22,  and,  passing  through  Waigat  Strait, 
anchored  on  the  24th  at  Upernivik,  having  been  delayed  by  fog  nearly  ten  hours  just  off  the 
harbor. 

To  my  disappointment,  skin-clothing  could  not  be  obtained  at  Upernivik,  except  by  a 
delay  of  ten  days  or  two  weeks.  Fortunately,  ten  suits  which  had  been  made  by  order  of 
the  Danish  Government  for  the  use  of  the  observers  of  the  proposed  international  station 
at  Upernivik,  in  i882-'83,  were  on  hand,  and  were  purchased  through  the  intervention  of 
Inspector  Smith.  The  two  Eskimo  who  were  recommended  for  service  with  the  expedition 
were  living  at  Proven,  some  fifty  miles  to  the  south,  and  in  consequence  it  was  necessary  to 
put  the  steam-launch  Lady  Greely  into  the  water  for  the  trip.  A  severe  storm  prevented 
her  immediate  departure;  but  before  it  had  entirely  abated,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  started 
southward  on  the  24th,  taking  a  circuitous  route  next  the  mainland  and  inside  the  many 
islands,  in  consequence  of  the  heavy  weather.  He  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  Elberg,  the  chief 
trader  of  Upernivik,  in  whose  district  Proven  was  situated. 

On  the  24th  and  25th,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  with  a  party,  was  sent  in  the  whale-boat 
to  the  loomery  near  Sanderson's  Hope.  They  obtained  four  hundred  and  twenty  guillemot 
which  were  dried  for  use  at  Discovery  Harbor. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  returned  on  the  28th  from  Proven,  bringing  back,  for  service  with 
the  expedition,  two  Eskimo,  Jens  Edward  and  Frederik  Thorlip  Christiansen.  They  were 
formally  contracted  with  the  same  day.  He  reported  that  the  launch  behaved  admirably, 
both  as  a  sea-boat  and  when  under  steam.  He  killed  one  hundred  and  twenty-seven  guillemot 
during  his  trip.  He  also  succeeded  in  securing  a  considerable  quantity  of  skin-clothing,  part 
of  which,  though  second  hand,  was  very  serviceable.  Sergeant  Rice  accompanied  the  party  to 
Proven  and  made  several  negatives  at  that  point. 

Fortunately  for  the  interests  of  the  expedition,  Inspector  Smith  was  again  met  with  at 
Upernivik,  and  it  was  through  his  marked  interest  and  kindly  influence  that  the  service  of  the 
natives  and  so  good  a  stock  of  all  needed  articles  were  secured.  He  informed  me  that  the 
winter  of  i88o-'8i  at  Upernivik  had  been  very  mild,  and  the  spring  a  very  forward  one; 
in  fourteen  years  Upernivik  had  never  been  so  green.  Reports  from  Tasiusak  were  to  the 
effect  that  the  ice  had  broken  up  very  early  and  had  entirely  disappeared. 


4  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Ten  dogs,  addUional  dog-food,  sledge-fittings,  dog-harness,  and  seal-skins  were  bonglit 
from  Mr.  Rlberg,  at  Upernivik.  The  dogs  so  pnrchased  proved  to  be  diseased,  and  through 
contagion  from  them  two-thirds  of  our  draught  animals  eventually  died. 

At  7  p.  m.,  July  29,  the  pilot  was  discharged  about  three  miles  west  of  Upernivik.  After 
running  northward  a  few  hours,  I  decided  to  take  the  "Middle  Passage"  across  Melville  Bay, 
as  there  was  no  ice  in  sight  except  a  few  .scattered  berg.s.  Land  was  sighted  at  4  a.  ni.  of  the 
31st,  and  at  7  a.  m.  the  engines  were  stopped,  as  the  dead  reckoning  placed  the  ves.sel  six 
miles  south  of  Cape  York.  Dense  fog  prevented  any  land  from  being  .seen  until  an  hour 
later,  when,  the  fog  lifting  a  few  minutes,  land  was  found  to  be  about  five  miles  distant. 
Nothing  in  the  shape  of  a  pack  was  encountered  in  Baffin  Bay,  but  in  alwni  75°  N.,  64°  \V., 
ice  was  seen  a  considerable  distance  to  the  westward,  but  whether  it  was  a  close  or  open  pack 
was  uncertain. 

Of  all  favorable  passages  across  Melville  Bay,  this  is  the  most  remarkable;  but  thirty-six 
hours  from  Upernivik  to  Cape  York.  The  y1/rr/  ran  acro.ss  in  seventy-two  hours,  the  Polaris 
in  forty  hours  (from  Tasiu.sak),  and  the  veteran  whaler,  Capt.  William  Adams,  in  1873,  as 
early  as  June  9,  crossed  in  seventy-two  hours.  Though  the  Middle  Pack  is  much  feared  by 
the  most  experienced  navigators,  yet  its  terrors  have  been  much  diminished  since  the  use  of 
steam.  There  seems  to  be  but  little  doubt  it  can  be  pa.s.sed  without  trouble  alnmst  any  year 
late  in  July  or  August.  The  wlialers  passing  Melville  Bay  in  June  necessarily  follow  the 
land  ice. 

A  polar  bear  {Urstis  maritimus)  and  a  seal  {Phoca  barhatd)  were  killed  on  small  detached 
floes  in  Baffin  Bay.  The  vessel  lay-to  July  31  on  account  of  foggj-  weather.  Several  soundings 
and  serial  temperature  observations  were  made,  which,  together  with  others  made  during  the 
journey  north,  form  Appendix  No.  104. 

AUGUST,  1881. 

The  fog  lifted  the  iflorning  of  August  i,  at  which  time  wc  were  off  Petowik  Glacier, 
.southeast  of  Cape  Atholl.  Along  these  shores  were  small  patches  of  snow,  of  a  dirty  reddish 
color,  which  were  without  doubt  the  reddish  snow  of  the  "Crimson  cliffs"  of  Sir  John  Ross. 
We  took  a  course  westward  from  Wolstenholnie  Island,  and  sighted  the  Cary  group  at  3. 10 
p.  m.  A  party  landed  on  the  southeast  island  at  6  p.  m.  to  examine  the  cache  made  by  Sir 
George  Nares  in  1875.  With  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  I  examined  the  provisions,  and  found 
them  in  generally  good  condition,  except  a  certain  portion  of  the  bread,  which  was  eatable, 
though  somewhat  moldy.  The  whale-boat  was  in  serviceable  condition.  The  cache  evi- 
dently had  not  been  disturbed  since  it  was  landed,  six  years  before.  At  the  same  time.  Dr. 
Pavy  obtained  from  a  cairn  on  the  summit  of  the  island  a  record  left  by  Sir  Allen  Young  in 
i875-'76.  A  copy  of  the  records  obtained  and  left  form  Appendix  No.  5.  Sergeant  Rice, 
with  considerable  difficulty,  obtained  a  photograph  of  the  cairn,  which  is  at  the  very  summit 
of  the  island,  some  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 

On  the  island  was  found  a  worn  oar  and  a  number  of  other  pieces  of  drift-wood,  among 
which  was  a  charred  piece  of  ornamental  work  (possibly  of  the  figure-head)  of  a  ship  which  had 
been  burned.  The  whaler  Xanthns  was  burned  about  five  miles  north  of  Tasiusak  in  1880. 
If,  as  is  probable,  this  was  from  the  Xanthus^  it  is  interesting  as  showing  a  southeast  surface 
current  to  extend  occasionally  that  far  to  the  north.  Such  a  current  from  the  southea.st  was 
experienced  by  us  all  day  of  July  31  off  the  coast,  near  Cape  Dudley  Digges.  This  fragment 
was  of  an  old  vessel,  as  the  original  red  and  yellow  paint  had  been  afterwards  overlaid  with 
a  coat  of  white. 

Cape  Alexander  was  passed  about  10  a.  m.  of  the  2d,  and  at  i  p.  m.  we  anchored  south  of 
Littleton  Island.     A  careful  and  exhaustive  search  was  made  by  me  for  seven  hours,  before 


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THE  LADY  FRANKMN  BAY  EXPEDITION.  '  5 

the  Arctic  mail  on  IJttlctoii  Islam),  landed  by  Sir  Allen  Yonnjj,  in  1H76,  for  the  Kn^lish  exjje- 
dition,  was  fonml.  The  seven  packages  of  mail  were  later  sent  back  by  the  l^olcus^  to  Ik* 
returned  throngh  the  proper  channels  to  ilie  Admiraltv  in  I<ondon.  Dnrin^;  the  search  a  large 
nnmber  of  cairns  -.vere  fonnd,  all  of  which  were  empty,  except  two,  which  contained  records 
from  the  steani-whalcr  /:>/<•,  Capt.  J.  B.  Walker,  dated  June  20,  1876.  The  cairn  erected 
by  Sir  (Icorjje  Nares  was  found  open  and  empty,  and  had  probably  Ix'cn  plundered  by  the 
Eskimo,  as  part  of  the  London  Standard^  of  an  unknown  date  in  1875,  was  fonnd  by  me  in 
the  snow  on  the  west  side  of  the  island. 

While  I  was  engaged  in  searching  for  the  mail,  Lieutenant  I,Kx:kwood  with  a  party  landed 
over  six  tons  of  coal  as  a  depot  for  fuel  for  possible  future  use.  It  was  on  low  grotmd  alxiut 
twenty  feet  above  the  sea,  on  the  extreme  southwest  side  of  Littleton  Island,  in  sight  of  Cape 
Alexander. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  with  Dr.  Pavyand  a  party,  visited  Life  Boat  Cove  to  communicate 
with  the  Etah  Eskimo,  if  any  could  be  found,  and  to  examine  the  Polaris  winter  qttarters  of 
i872-'73.  The  transit  instrument  was  fonnd  alwut  twenty  feet  from  the  cairn  in  which  it  was 
originally  deposited.  Nothing  remained  of  Ihlan's  house,  but  the  ground  was  covered  with 
various  articles  of  iron  and  other  metals,  which  are  well  shown  by  the  photographs  taken  by 
Sergeant  Rice,  who  also  made  several  other  negatives  in  the  neighlwrhood.  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury's  report  forms  Appendix  No.  6. 

None  of  the  Eskimo  had  lx:cn  .seen  in  our  northward  journey,  although  a  close  watch  had 
been  kept  on  the  coast  from  Cape  Dudley  Digges  to  Wolstenholine  Island,  and  from  Cape  Chalon 
north.  It  was  evident  that  none  had  lived  at  Life  Boat  Cove  within  the  year,  and  probably 
not  within  three  or  four  years. 

The  wheel  of  the  I^otcus  needed  some  repairs  and  delayed  us  until  1 1  p.  m.  of  August  2. 
The  weather  on  leaving  was  fair  with  no  ice  in  sight,  and  in  consequence  I  did  not  dare  to 
sjjend  time  for  the  examination  of  the  two  hundred  and  forty  rations  at  Cape  Sabine,  but 
ordered  the  captain  to  make  direct  for  Cape  Hawks,  which  was  reached  9  a.  m.  August  3. 

The  /Vfl/*7/j  lay-to  just  north  of  Cape  Hawks,  while  I  with  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  exam- 
ined the  English  depot  of  1875,  and  sent  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Dr.  Pavy  to  Washington 
Irving  Island.  The  jolly-boat  was  found  in  good  condition,  and  was  taken  by  me,  as  I  was  short 
of  boats.  It  was  named  the  Valorous^  from  H.  M.  ship  to  which  it  originally  belonged.  Two 
barrels  of  pickles,  two  barrels  of  stearine,  a  barrel  of  preserved  potatoes,  and  two  kegs  partly 
full  of  rum  were  found  in  excellent  condition.  There  was  a  large  quantity  of  bread,  some  of 
which  had  evidently  moulded  owing  to  the  casks  being  left  in  a  depression  of  the  rock  where 
melting  snow  collected  in  summer.  Three  cans  of  potatoes  and  a  keg  of  piccalilli,  and  the 
part  of  keg  of  rum  were  taken,  and  the  remaining  stores  were  placed  in  the  best  possible 
condition  to  resist  the  weather.  Sergeant  Rice  made  several  photographs  of  the  surrounding 
country  during  our  brief  stay. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  found  oti  Washington  Irving  Island  Sir  George  Nares'  record  of 
i875-'76,  which  with  his  own  notice  forms  Appendix  No.  7. 

Cape  Hawks  was  left  at  11  a.  m.,  and  at  3  p.  m.  Cape  Frazer  was  passed.  Washington 
Land  was  sighted  at  4  p.  m.  through  the  fog,  which  had  just  set  in.  To  this  time  no  pack 
had  been  seen,  and  Kane  Basin  was  evidently  freer  from  ice  than  Baffin  Bay.  Only  a  few 
rotten  floes  of  very  limited  extent  were  at  any  time  visible.  The  only  paleocrystic  floe-bergs 
seen  were  four  large  ones  near  Cape  Frazer. 

The  eightieth  parallel  was  cro.ssed  at  5  p.  m.,  and  half  an  hour  later  the  vessel  was  abreast 
of  Cape  Collinson ;  but  increasing  fogginess  deterred  me  from  examining  the  sledge  rations 
there,  for  fear  of  serious  delay  in  my  northward  progress.  Scoresby  Bay  was  filled  with 
harbor  ice,  apparently  unbroken  that  year,  and  already  a  fringe  of  new  ice  extended  out- 
ward a  mile  or  more  into  the  sea.     The  dense  fog  retarded  our  progress  considerably,  and 


!!   i 


6  THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

about  lo  p.  111.  it  was  necessary  to  lay-to  until  the  morning  of  August  4.  About  10  a.  m.  we 
obtained  a  sounding  some  eight  miles  southwest  of  P*ranklin  Island,  with  no  bottom  at  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  fathoms.  Carl  Ritter  Bay  was  reached  at  2  p.  m.,  and  a  small  depot  of  about 
two  hundred  and  tweuty-fi\e  rations  of  bread  and  meat  were  cached  on  the  extreme  northern 
shore  of  the  bay.  Cape  Lieber  was  iieared,  and  a  heavy  pack  against  the  land  was  passed  by 
a  detour  to  the  eastward. 

At  9  p.  m.  August  4  the  vessel  was  stopped  for  the  first  time  by  the  ice  in  the  extreme 
southeastern  part  of  Lady  F'ranklin  Bay,  only  eight  miles  from  our  destination.  The  pack 
was  a  very  heavy  one,  extending  in  a  semicircle  from  Cape^  Baird  to  the  Greenland  coast,  near 
the  mouth  of  Peterinann  Fiord.  It  consisted  of  paleocrystic  floes  ranging  from  twenty  to  fifty 
feet  in  thickness,  which  were  cemented  together  by  harbor  ice  from  two  to  five  feet  thick. 
The  Proteus  was  made  fast  to  the  southern  edge  of  the  pack  to  await  further  movements  of 
the  ice. 

On  the  5th  the  cliffs  of  Cape  Lieber  were  thoroughly  examined  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood, 
Dr.  Pavy,  and  myself,  and  a  cairn  was  erected  on  the  highest  peak.  No  signs  of  a  previous 
cairn  or  any  other  indications  of  an  earlier  visit  were  noted.  From  the  summit  of  Cape  Lieber 
the  ice  to  the  northward,  in  Hall  Basin  and  Robeson  Channel,  was  seen  to  be  heavy  and  almost 
continuous. 

During  the  6th,  7th,  and  8th  of  August  it  was  found  neces.sary  to  frequently  change  the 
position  of  the  vessel  in  order  to  avoid  besetment,  but  every  opportunity  was  improved  to  hold 
as  much  ground  as  possible.     Immeiise  fields  of  ice  passed  southward  during  this  time. 

On  the  8tli  a  nip  appeared  probable,  as  the  fields  driven  to  the  south  packed  together  and 
formed  a  wide  barrier,  which  apparently  caught  between  Hans  Island  and  the  Grinnell  Land 
coast.  A  strong  north  wind  at  the  same  time  was  forcing  immense  quantities  of  ice  south- 
ward from  Hall  Basin.  Preparations  were  made  for  a  nip  and  the  screw  and  rudder  made 
ready  to  be  unshipped  instantly.  The  condition  of  the  ice  improved,  however,  at  the  turn 
of  the  tide,  but  the  vessel  was  forced  slowly  southward  to  withiu  some  five  miles  of  Hans 
Island,  having  lost  about  forty-five  miles  of  latitude. 

A  southwesterly  gale  with  snow  set  in  on  the  lotli,  which  continued  during  the  nth, 
starting  the  whole  pack  to  the  northward.  When  the  snow  cleared  on  the  morning  of  the 
nth,  open  water  was  visible  along  the  west  coast  as  far  northward  as  the  eye  could  reach. 
At  7.30  a.  m.  we  ran  to  the  northward,  and  by  2.30  p.  111.  had  crossed  Lady  Franklin  Bay 
without  detention  from  the  ice.  Water-course  Bay  was  entirely  filled  with  pack-ice,  jammed 
against  the  shore,  which  extended  to  the  southward,  but  a  narrow  lane  of  water  between 
Distant  Cape  and  Bellot  Island  permitted  the  vessel  to  enter  Discovery  Harbor,  where  she  was 
moored  to  the  ice  inside  Dutch  Island.  Fast  harbor-ice  about  eighteen  inches  thick  covered 
Discovery  Harbor,  as  well  as  the  western  l:alf  of  Lady  Franklin  Bay. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  sent  to  examine  Water-counse  Bay  and  the  coal  seam,  while  I 
visited  the  winter  quarters  of  H.  M.  vS.  Disanrry.  The  records  found  by  me  form  Appendix 
No.  8.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  Water-course  Bay  forms  Appendix  No.  9.  He 
considered  the  place  an  excellent  one  for  the  station,  and  reported  that  the  bay,  which  was 
evidently  a  shallow  one,  was  partly  clear  of  ice,  and  that  a  vessel  could  probably  approach 
within  some  two  hundred  yards  of  the  shore.  The  situation  of  the  bay  was  such  that,  while 
discharging,  a  vessel  would  necessarily  be  unprotected  against  the  moving  pack,  'r  conse- 
quence I  decided  to  establish  the  station  at  "Discovery"  winter  quarters.  The  decision  was 
a  wi.se  one,  for  Dr.  Pav\',  from  ground  overlooking  Water-course  Bay,  found  it  full  of  pack- 
ice  on  the  I3tli.  Immediately  on  landing  we  succeeded  in  killing  fourteen  niusk-cattle,  which 
furni.shed  an  excellent  and  abundant  supply  of  fresh  meat  for  the  first  winter. 

On  the  1 2th  the  Proteus  broke  her  'v.^y  through  nearly  two  miles  of  heavy  ice,  and 
anchored  on  the  holding  ground  of  H.  M.  S.  Discovery,  within  one  hundred  yards  of  the  post' 


6 


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THB  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


office  cairn  of  Captain  Stephenson.  The  party  was  divided  into  gangs  for  unloading  the 
stores.  The  general  cargo  was  discharged  in  sixty  hours  by  4  a.  m.  of  the  14th,  and  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  tons  of  coal  were  landed  by  the  evening  of  the  i8th.  The  station  was  named 
Conger  in  honor  of  Senator  Omar  D.  Conger,  who  had  taken  a  deep  interest  in  the  expedition. 

On  August  14,  my  surgeon,  first  through  an  officer  and  later  personally,  expressed  to  me 
his  intention  of  breaking  his  formal  contract  and  leaving  the  expedition  unless  Mr.  Henry 
Clay,  with  whom  he  had  quarreled,  should  be  ordered  from  duty  with  the  party.  The  situa- 
tion was  trying  in  the  extreme.  If  on  one  hand  it  seemed  quite  impossible  to  face  without 
a  regular  doctor  two  years'  isolated,  Arctic  service,  it  would  on  the  other  hand  certainly  be 
destructive  to  discipline  and  success  if  the  commandingofficer  thus  yielded  to^iictation  from  his 
subordinate.  Dr.  Pavy  was  immediately  informed  that  such  threat  could  receive  neither 
consideration  nor  concession,  but  that  he  must  submit  to  the  judgment  and  decision  of  his 
commander.  Dr.  Pavy  yielded.  Mr.  Clay,  unaware  of  the  question,  later  requested  to  be 
relieved  in  order  to  promote  harmony;  and  I  so  ordered,  having  in  my  mind  determined  that 
such  procedure  was  necessary,  on  the  same  grounds  as  actuated  Mr.  Clay's  request. 

The  surgeon  reporting  Corporal  Starr  as  unfitted  for  stay,  owing  to  asthma,  he  was  ordered 
to  return  in  the  Proteus. 

To  facilitate  the  departure  of  the  vessel,  and  at  the  eu.nest  request  of  her  captain,  she  was 
formally  discharged  at  6  p.  m.,  August  18,  although  our  coal  was  ten  tons  short,  which  ^ras 
thought  could  be  obtained  from  the  adjacent  mine.  The  expeditionary  force  landed  at  7  p.  m. 
and  took  up  temporary  quarters  in  tents. 

The  Proteus  left  her  anchorage  about  5  a.  m.,  August  19,  but  being  stopped  by  heavy  ice, 
which  late  southerly  winds  had  accumulated  at  the  northern  entrance  of  the  harbor,  returned 
to  anchorage  off  Proteus  Point.  This  name  was  given  to  a  point  off  the  east  shore  of  Discovery 
Harbor,  nearly  midway  between  our  station  and  Dutch  Island.  The  steam-launch  under 
Lieutenant  Lockwood's  command  attempted  to  follow  the /Vo/«/j  when  she  left  her  anchorage 
on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  but,  owing  to  the  heavy  floes,  found  it  not  only  dangerous  but 
impossible  to  do  so.  The  Proteus  made  several  attempts  to  leave  the  harbor  but  was  unsuc- 
cessful until  the  evening  of  the  26th.  Private  Ryan  was  sent  on  board  the  22d,  under  orders 
to  return  to  Washington,  on  account  of  an  epileptic  attack. 

On  August  26,  Second  Lieut.  F.  F.  Kislingbury,  dissatisfied  with  the  expeditionary  regu- 
lations, requested  to  be  relieved.  He  was  immediately  relieved  and  ordered  to  report  in  person 
to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer.  The  Proteus  got  under  way  just  as  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was 
leaving  the  station  to  board  her,  and  he  was  consequently  obliged  to  return.  He  was  at  first 
notified  that  he  would  be  regarded  as  awaiting  orders  at  the  station,  but  subsequently,  at  his 
own  request,  the  order  was  so  modified  as  to  consider  him  awaiting  transportation  in  order 
to  report  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Army.  He  remained  at  Fort  Conger  perfonning 
no  duty,  and  no  further  requirements  were  made  of  him  than  that  he  should  conform  to  the 
police  regulations  of  the  station.  At  no  time  did  he  ever  request  to  be  returned  to  duty  as  an 
officer  of  the  expedition,  and  his  assignment  to  duty  on  April  9,  1884,  at  the  time  of  Lieutenant 
Lockwood's  death,  was  made  on  my  own  responsibility,  as  being  required  by  propriety,  if  not 
by  the  exigencies  of  the  service.  It  may  here  be  said  that  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  at  various 
times  contributed  by  his  skill  and  assiduity  as  a  hunter  to  our  stock  of  game,  and  thus  to  our 
comfort  and  health.  The  orders  and  correspondence  in  his  case  form  Appendices  Nos.  10,  11, 
12,  13,  and  14. 

By  almost  incessant  work  the  house  was  covered  in  so  that  the  cook-room  could  be 
occupied  on  the  21st,  and  by  August  31,  although  not  comfortable,  the  house  was  habitable. 
The  general  stores  having  been  secured  and  the  house  well  advanced,  attention  was  turned  to 
field  work.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  started  with  two  men  on  the  29th  to  ascertain  the  best 
route  for  inland  travel  to  and  around  St.  Patrick  Bay.     He  returned  on  the  following  day 


8 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


having  killed  a  musk-ox  during  his  absence,  and  also  frozen  (fortunately  only  superficially) 
his  foot.  St.  Patrick  Bay  was  found  to  be  fringed  on  its  southern  shores  with  precipitous 
cliffs,  at  the  head  of  and  overlooking  the  bay,  of  about  nine  hundred  feet  elevation,  which 
could  be  passed  only  with  great  difficulty.     His  report  fornv'^  Appendix  No.  15. 

Acting  Assi.stant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy  and  Sergeant  Rice,  the  photographer  of  the  expedition, 
having  volunteered  their  services  for  an  overland  trip,  were  sent  northward  August  29,  with 
instructions  to  proceed  as  far  as  practicable  towards  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  and  .search  for  traces 
oi  i)\c  Jcannclte.  Lack  of  snow  forbidding  sledges,  and  heavy  running  ice  the  use  of  boats, 
they  were  obliged  to  carry  food,  bedding,  etc.,  on  their  persons.  Sufficient  provisions  were 
taken  to  last  as  far  as  the  English  depot  at  Lincoln  Bay,  where  they  could  be  renewed. 
Sergeants  Ralston  and  Linn  accompanied  them  one  day's  journey,  hauling  supplies  on  a 
wheeled  conveyance  to  form  depot  A  at  the  most  convenient  place,  which  proved  to  be  the 
top  of  the  precipitous  cliffs  overlooking  St.  Patrick  Bay. 

Visiting  Dutch  Island  the  30th  and  finding  that  Robeson  Channel  was  clearing  of  ice,  I 
decided  to  attempt  the  establishing  by  boat  of  a  depot  to  the  northward.  Stores  and  a  whale- 
boat  were  hauled  over  the  ice  to  Dutch  Island,  and  on  the  31st  Sergeant  Brainard  and  five 
men  left  with  stores  for  depot  B.  Instructions  did  not  permit  them  to  proceed  farther  north 
than  Cape  Beechey.  If  threatened  seriously  by  ice,  the  boat  was  to  be  secured  above  tide-water 
and  the  party  return  on  foot  to  the  station.  Sergeant  Brainard  was  sent  in  command  of  this 
party  owing  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  temporary  disability  from  frost-bite. 

During  the  month  one  ptarmigan,  a  hare,  and  sixteen  musk-cattle  were  killed. 

On  the  23d  a  permanent  bench-mark  was  established,  in  order  that  any  subsequent 
expedition  could  determine  any  elevation  or  depression  of  the  land  which  might  meanwhile 
occur.  The  earth  was  excavated  several  inches  below  permanent  frost,  and  a  brick  pier  set 
in  cement  was  erected.  A  bar  of  iron,  half  an  inch  square,  projected  two  inches  above  the 
brick  pier,  into  which  it  was  firmly  set.  Its  top  is  24.5  feet  [7.5'"]  above  mean  .sea-level  ;  it 
has  a  mark  (xx)  on  its  south  (true)  side. 

A  temporary  tide-gauge  was  erected  on  the  rSth,  and  a  permanent  one  on  the  23d,  from 
which  latter  date  hourly  readings  were  made.  Hourly  meteorological  observations  were 
discontinued  on  the  Proteus  at  12  p.  m.  August  18,  and  commenced  on  shore  an  hour  later. 
These  readings  gave  a  mean  pressure(8th  to  31st)  of  29.842,  and  a  mean  temperature  (5th  to  31st) 
of  33.30°  [.7°  C.].  Extremes  of  45.9°  [7.7°  C]  and  15.6°  [—9.1°  C]  were  noted;  the  latter 
being  the  lowest  August  temperature  on  record,  until  exceeded  during  our  retreat. in  1883. 

By  the  morning  of  September  i  the  entire  harbor  was  frozen  over,  and  the  young  ice  was 
4->^  inches  thick. 

The  health  of  the  command  at  the  end  of  the  month  was  excellent. 

SEPTEMBER,  1881. 

Sergeant  Brainard  returned  with  his  party  on  the  3d,  having  walked  overland  from  the 
foot  of  Motmt  Beaufort,  near  Cape  Beechey,  where  depot  B  had  been  established.  The  inci- 
dents of  his  journey  were  as  follows  : 

Leaving  Dutch  Island  the  forenoon  of  August  31,  the  boat  had  experienced  mtich  difficulty 
from  young  ice.  After  incurring  imminent  danger  from  large  moving  floes,  they  reached  Cape 
Beechey,  but  were  obliged  by  the  difficult  ice-foot  to  land  four  miles  below  the  cape,  where 
heavy  ice  came  down  as  they  were  unloading.  Drawing  up  the  boat  and  pitching  the  tent, 
they  waited  thirty-six  hours  for  an  opportunity  of  returning  by  boat.  Finding  that  the  ice 
remained  packed,  they  .secured  everything  and  returned  to  the  station  across  a  very  rough 
country,  passing  St.  Patrick  Bay  over  the  new  ice.  The  detailed  report  of  Sergeant  Brainard, 
together  with  that  of  Sergeant  Jewell,  forms  Appendices  16  and  17. 


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71 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


9 


Sergeant  Ciardiner  and  Corporal  Salor  were  sent  tlie  Otli  to  examine  how  far  westward 
from  Cape  Murchison  the  foot-hills  of  St.  Patrick  Hay  were  practicable  for  loaded  sledjjes. 
They  reported  the  ronte  possible  on  land,  only  a  mile  beyond  and  northwest  of  Cape  Mnrchison, 
where  precipitous  cliffs,  at  the  month  of  and  overlookinjj  St.  Patrick  Hay,  would  necessarily 
cause  any  .sledge  party  to  take  the  ice-foot  or  main  pack.  They  found  an  eight-man  sledge,  a 
pickax,  a  cooking-lamp,  and  a  twelve-foot  cedar  boat,  with  paddles.  Only  slight  repairs  were 
needed  to  make  the  boat  serviceable.  Hoat  and  sledges  were  evidently  abandoned  by  sledging 
j)arty  from  H.  M.  S.  Discovery^  in  1876.  Sergeant  (iardiner's  detailed  report  of  this  journey 
forms  Appendix  No.  18. 

September  7,  Sergeant  Linn  was  sent  with  a  small  party  to  remove  depot  A  from  the 
cliffs  overlooking  St.  Patrick  Hay  to  a  point  in  the  .southeast  corner  of  the  bay,  where  a  party 
traveling  north  would  naturally  pass  it.  It  was  located  a  mile  northwest  of  Cajie  Murchison. 
Sergeant  Linn  found  in  Water-course  Bay  a  cart  left  by  the  Kngli.sh  expedition,  1875-76. 
His  report  forms  Appendix  No.  19. 

September  7,  accompanied  by  three  men  and  taking  dog-sledge  A)itoinctti\  I  started 
westward  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  the  ice  in  Archer  Kiord,  to  examine  the  depot  which 
Lieutenant  Conybeare,  R.  N.,  was  believed  to  have  left  in  Sun  Bay,  and  to  gather  such  infor- 
mation as  would  be  valuable  in  case  of  a  sledge  trip  inland  toward  the  west  coast  of  (irinnell 
Land.  The  western  shore  of  the  large  bay  forming  the  extreme  southwestern  parts  of  Dis- 
covery Harbor  was  reached  that  afternoon,  and  while  the  party  were  slaughtering  a  herd  of 
musk-oxen,  I  visited  alone  Sun  Bay  and  Stony  Cape.  The  ice  in  Archer  Fiord,  of  recent 
formation,  was  found  in  perfect  condition  for  traveling.  Searching  two  hours  over  rocky 
points  for  the  depot,  and  .seriously  injuring  my  knee  by  a  fall  among  sharp  rocks,  I  was 
obliged  to  abandon  the  search.  Two  cans,  one  each  of  rum  and  alcohol,  were  the  only  articles 
found.  Possibly  the  rations  may  have  been  left  in  bags  and  been  eaten  by  animals,  a  wolf's 
lair  being  near.  Eleven  musk-cattle  were  killed,  the  remainder  of  the  herd  being  spared  by 
my  orders,  to  guard  against  their  extermination.  Twelve  eider  ducks  were  killed  in  the 
southwest  part  of  Discovery  Harbor.  A  considerable  quantity  of  drift-wood,  apparently  conif- 
erous, as  a  rule,  was  gathered  along  the  shores,  some  pieces  being  about  three  feet  in  circum- 
ference.    The  detailed  description  forms  Appendix  No.  126, 

Dr.  Pavy  appeared  at  the  station  at  4  a.  m.  September  9,  and  reported  that  Sergeant  Rice, 
suffering  from  an  attack  of  inflammatory  rheumatism,  had  been  left  that  night  in  the  ravine 
north  of  St.  Patrick  Bay,  about  ten  miles  from  the  station.  Sergeant  Brainard  was  at  once 
sent  to  him  with  needful  medicines  and  provisions,  followed  by  four  men  with  a  sled  and  an 
improvised  stretcher.  Five  men  being  unable  to  bring  him  up  the  high,  steep  cliffs  bordering 
St.  Patrick  Bay,  six  others  were  added  to  the  party,  whose  united  efforts  were  required  for 
nearly  an  hour  and  a  half  to  get  him  up  the  cliffs.  During  their  absence  a  northeasterly  gale 
set  in,  and  the  temperature  fell  to  +8°  [ — 13.3°  C.].  A  number  of  frost-bites  resulted,  for- 
tunately none  severe. 

Dr.  Pavy  had  reached  Cape  Union  September  3.  He  traveled  from  F'ort  Conger  across  the 
country,  around  St.  Patrick  Bay,  striking  the  coast  at  Cape  Beechey.  Following  thence  the 
shore  as  far  as  Black  Cliffs  he  was  compelled  by  precipitous  crags  and  open  water  to  turn 
back,  and  reached  Wrangel  Bay  by  a  detour  inland.  From  Wrangel  Bay  to  Cape  Union  the 
coast  had  been  followed.  The  English  depot  at  Lincoln  Bay  was  carefully  examined.  The 
bread  an'd  many  of  the  groceries  were  found  to  be  spoiled.  The  preserved  beef,  rum,  and 
stearine  were  good.  Several  boxes  of  meat  and  potatoes  were  missing,  possibly  blown  into 
the"channel  by  some  violent  storm.  The  serviceable  groceries  were  packed  in  one  cask.  From 
Cape  Union  the  Greenland  coast  was  visible.  Dr.  Pavy  said,  as  far  as  Cape  Britannia.  The 
Polar  Ocean  was  covered  with  the  ordinary  pack;  no  paleocrystic  floes,  and  but  few  water 
lanes  were  seen.     In  Robeson  Channel  a  water  lane,  about  two  miles  wide,  extended  northward 


10 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


and  southward  al(»njj  the  (iriiinell  Land  sliore  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  vSave  a  few 
j^ronndcd  berjp,  no  paleocrystic  ice  was  seen  at  any  time.  No  traces  of  \.\\k  JranutUe  were 
found. 

Tlie  condition  of  Serj^eant  Rice  precluded  progress  beyond  Cajx;  Union.  Having;;  broken 
through  the  young  ice  in  Wrangel  Hay,  he  had  been  troubled  with  rheumatic  pains  the  3d. 
On  the  4th  his  joints  were  .so  .swollen  that  he  could  not  draw  on  his  boots  without  difficulty. 
Although  suffering  with  acute  rheumatism,  he  traveled  fifty-five  out  of  seventy.-one  hours  after 
leaving  Lincoln  Bay.  When  reached  by  the  party  he  could  move  no  limb  e.\ccpt  by  great 
effort.  The  severity  of  his  sufferings  nuiy  be  estimated  from  his  losing  twenty-four  pounds 
of  flesh  during  his  journey.  His  pluck  and  endurance,  as  Dr.  Favy  rcjnarkcd,  were  wonderful. 
He  recovered  speedily,  and  on  the  19th  was  again  in  the  field. 

Dr.  Pavy  found  at  the  head  of  Lincoln  Bay  several  .small  hunps  of  coal,  but  was  unable 
to  locate  the  vein.  A  fish  about  seven  inches  long  was  .seen  in  Becchey  Lake.  A  hare  was 
shot,  and  nine  musk-cattle  seen  during  the  trip.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  and  detailed  report  form 
Appendices  Nos.  20  and  21. 

On  the  loth,  reluctantly  realizing  that  winter  had  come,  advantage  was  taken  of  a  very 
high  tide,  augmented  by  a  northerly  gale,  to  haul  ihe  launch  Lady  Grccly  up  on  the  ice-foot, 
where,  undisturbed,  she  could  securely  pa.ss  the  winter. 

September  11,  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  with  Sergeant  Oardine'  and  Eskin'.o  Christiansen, 
started  with  dog-sledge  to  explore  the  "Bellow.s,"  a  valley  Icadiig  northwestward  from  the 
southwest  part  of  Di.scovery  Harbor.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  fo'lowed  the  valley  for  about 
twelve  miles  beyond  the  farthest  of  Lieutenant  Archer,  R.  N.  li.  the  last  dozen  miles  the 
valley  narrowed  rapidly,  changed  its  direction  to  the  northward,  and  apparently  terminated  in 
a  narrow  gorge  a  mile  or  two  beyond  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  farthest,  through  which  a  dis- 
tant snow-covered  mountain  was  seen. 

The  latter  part  of  his  outward  journey  was  on  foot,  he  being  compelled,  as  was  Lieutenant 
Archer,  to  leave  his  sledge  behind,  it  being  nearly  worn  out  by  the  sharp,  flinty  stones  with 
which  the  bed  of  the  valley  was  covered.  A  great  deal  of  lignite  coal  in  small  pieces  was 
.seen  between  Black  Cape  and  Devil's  Back,  but  it  could  not  be  found  /;/  situ.  This  coal 
was  evidently  seen  by  Lieutenant  Archer,  R.  N.,  who  "found  the  bottom  of  the  valley  to 
consist  of  *  *  *  shingle  *  *  *  mi.xed  with  some  hard  sut  ♦^•>*'ce  very  much  like 
charcoal."  This  coal  resembled  very  much  in  appearance  that  of  thf  vein  near  Water-course 
Bay. 

About  two  and  a  half  miles  from  Black  Cape,  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  [46'"]  above  the  sea.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  found  a  piece  of  knotty  pine,  three  feet 
long  and  eight  inches  in  diameter,  in  the  frozen  earth.  Breaking  his  hatchet  handle  in  an 
attempt  to  cut  it  out,  he  was  unable  to  obtain  the  stick.  Two  musk-oxen  were  seen,  but  in 
accordance  with  my  orders  were  not  killed.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  forms  Appendix 
No,  22. 

Dr.  Pavy,  with  two  men  and  two  dog-sledges,  left  September  15,  with  orders  to  proceed 
down  Archer  Fiord  and  travel  overland  westward  from  Mount  Neville  as  far  as  his  provisions 
would  permit.  He  returned  the  following  day,  reporting  that  the  late  storm  had  broken  up 
the  new  ice  in  Archer  Fiord,  and  that  progress  beyond  Sun  Bay  was  impracticable.  The 
written  report  rendered  by  Dr.  Pavy  and  the  orders  for  his  journey  form  Appendices  Nos.  23 
and  24. 

September  16  I  started  with  two  men  for  three  days'  inland  journey  towards  the  United 
States  Mountains,  but  was  myself  compelled  to  return  the  same  day,  my  knee  not  having 
sufficiently  recovered  from  its  injury  the  week  previous.  A  man  replacing  me,  the  party  con- 
tinued onwards,  but  were  driven  in  by  a  heavy  storm  the  i8th.     Sergeant  Brainard  verbally 


f-*«iP!>n«^Wt 


Map  of  Country  immfdjately  SuRROUNni\r.  Ft.  Cont.er. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


11 


reported  that  they  had  traveled  twenty-five  miles  to  the  northwest,  and  had  reached  a  high 
"divide,"  from  which  they  believed  water  drained  westward,  althongh  a  thick  snow-storm 
prevented  any  view. 

Dr.  Pavy  started  on  the  2ist  with  supplies  for  depot  B,  and  was  unable  to  round  Dista*it 
Cape.  Later  in  the  day,  with  Sergeants  Braiuard  and  Rice,  I  got  the  sledge  around  the  cape 
to  the  entrance  of  Water-course  Bay,  where,  a  runner  breaking,  the  load  was  left  luitil  the  next 
day,  when  Sergeant  Braiuard  moved  it  to  the  north  shore  of  St.  Patrick  Ba 

On  the  24th  Lieutenant  Lockwood  started  with  four  men  to  haul  supplies  to  depot  B  (near 
Cape  Beechey).  In  returning  'le  brought  from  near  the  head  of  St.  Patrick's  Bay  a  section  of 
a  large  coniferous  tree,  probably  pine.  It  was  found  just  above  the  tide-water  by  Privates 
Connell  and  Chri&.iansen,  September  9,  at  which  time  the  largest  end  was  cut  off  for  fire-wood 
for  the  relief  party.  The  section  from  the  center  was  of  nine  and  a  half  inches  diameter. 
When  found,  the  tree  was  thirty  f^ct  in  length.  I,ieutenant  Lockwood's  detailed  report  is 
appended.  No.  25. 

Sergeant  Rice,  on  the  25tli  and  26th,  with  dog-sledge,  added  supplies  to  depot  B.  His 
report  forms  Appendix  No.  26. 

Sergear  ts  Braiuard  and  Jewell  examined  the  ice  towards  Cape  Lieber  September  26.  It 
was  found  to  be  quite  rough  and  evidently  liable  as  yet  to  open  during  the  tides  or  strong  winds. 

During  the  month  a  hare,  four  wolves,  twelve  eider-ducks,  and  eleven  musk-cattle  were 
killed.  The  wolves  were  of  a  pack  which,  eighteen  in  number,  crossed  the  harbor-ice  near 
the  station  September  17.     Two  others  of  the  pack  were  badly  wounded. 

Stars  were  first  visible  midnight  of  September  9  and  10.  Sets  of  time,  latitude,  and 
azimuth  observations  were  made  during  the  month.  From  the  17th  to  the  19th,  inclusive, 
hourly  observations  of  magnetic  declination  were  made,  and  observations  for  inclination  and 
horizontal  intensity.  In  addition  to  hourly  tidal  observations,  the  high  nd  low  waters  were 
observed  as  to  time  and  height.  Hourly  meteorological  observations  were  made.  (As  the 
hourly  observations  mentioned  above  have  been  regularly  made,  they  will  not  be  referred  to 
in  detail  each  month.) 

Mean  pressure,  29.800  [756.9"""]  ;  temperature,  +  10.92°  [ — 11.7°  C.].  The  mean  tem- 
perature (4.7°  [2.6°  C]  below  Nares,  Floeberg  Beach,  1875)  has  been  surpassed  as  regards  cold 
only  by  9.74°  [ — 12.4''  C]  of  Kane,  Van  Rensselaer  Harbor,  1853. 

Extremes  of  temperature,  +30°  [ — 1.1°  C]  and  — 11.9°  [ — 24.4°  C.].  The  minimum 
is  the  lowest  on  record  for  September.  A  minimum  of  — 14.5°  [ — 25.8°  C]  was  experienced 
by  field  parties  the  night  of  the  24th  and  25th. 

The  new  ice  was  fifteen  inches  thick  at  the  end  of  the  month.  Snow  fell  on  nine  days ; 
amount  melted,  '^23  inch. 

The  issue  of  an  ounce  of  lime-juice  to  each  man,  which  had  been  made  on  alternate  days, 
became  daily  from  September  21.     The  health  of  the  command  continued  excellent. 


0CT0BP:R,  1881. 

The  .<!tate  of  the  ice  permitting  sledge  travel.  Dr.  Pavy  left,  October  2,  with  Private 
Whisler,  Eskimo  Jens,  and  two  dog  sledges,  under  orders  to  proceed  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry, 
en  route  for  drift-wood  or  other  possible  traces  of  ihcjcaiiiutfe.  In  addition  to  his  search, 
he  was  to  lay  out  uortluvard  such  depots  as  would  facilitate  spring  iravel  along  the  cost  of 
Griiniell  Laud.  He  returned  the  9th.  He  had  been  obliged  to  reach  Wrangcl  Bay  from  Cape 
Beechey  by  an  inland  route,  and  was  stopped  by  open  water  and  failure  of  ice-foot,  south  of 
Lincoln  Bay,  at  the  cliffs  of  Cape  Frederick  VII.  Very  heavy  ice  was  found  from  that  point 
southward  to  Wrangel  Bay.  Two  small  depots  (C,  in  Wraugel  Bay,  and  I),  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Parry)  were  established.  His  orders  and  report  are  to  be  found  in  Appendices  Nos.  27,  28, 
and  35. 


i 


12 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Liontenaiit  Lockwood  (3d  to  5th)  explored  the  \alley  north  of  Si.  Patrick  Bay.  About 
a  milt  and  a  half  wide  at  the  ba>',  it  extends  six  miles  to  the  northwest  (true)  and  terminates 
in  a  narrow  ravine,  the  bed  of  the  river.  His  report,  with  a  map  of  the  valley,  forms  Appendix 
No.  29. 

I <amps  became  necessary  midday  of  the  8th.  On  the  5th,  nth,  and  13th,  parties  were 
sent  to  the  sonthwest  jxirt  of  I)isco\ery  Harbor  to  brinjj  in  the  mnsk-cattle  killed  September 
7;  the  eleven  f'irnished  twenty-six  hnndred  pounds  of  dressed  meat.  The  report  of  Serj^eant 
Rice  (Appendix  No.  30)  is  of  interest  in  connection  with  tlie  equipment  of  the  parties. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood,  havin<j  ascertained  on  the  9th  that  the  ice  in  that  direction  was 
practicable,  on  the  12th  and  13th  establis)ied  a  small  depot  of  provisions  at  Cape  Baird,  for 
possible  emergencies.     Hudson  Bay  sledjjes  were  used  for  the  work  and  proved  satisfactory. 

The  sun  was  last  visible  from  the  station  October  14,  not  to  be  seen  again  until  February, 
one  hundred  and  thirty-.seven  days.     Stars  were  visible  at  noon  (local  time)  October  22. 

October  18  a  party  was  sent  to  mine  coal  in  Water-cour.se  ravine,  and  on  the  19th,  20th, 
24th,  26th,  and  28th,  parties  were  engaged  in  hauling  it  to  depot  A  (Cape  ^lurchison),  where 
a  ton  and  a  half  was  accumulated  to  serve  as  fuel  for  sledge  parties.  A  small  quantity  .was 
hauled  to  the  main  .station. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood,  October  23,  proceeded  with  i  party  to  depot  B,  near  Cape  Beechey, 
and  constructed  a  substantial  snow  house.  A  small  stove  and  four  hundred  poinids  of  coal 
were  hauled  from  depot  A  to  dejiot  B.  He  ascended  Mount  Beaufort  October  26,  and  saw 
Robeson  Channel  open  in  all  directions.  The  only  ice  to  be  seen  appeared  to  be  small.  No 
floe-bergs,  .save  a  few  grounded  ones,  could  be  di.sccrned.  He  was  of  the  opinion  that  an  Arctic 
vessel  could  Iiave  steamed  with  but  little  if  any  trouble  from  Cape  Lieber  to  Repulse  Harbor. 

October  9  an  anemometer  and  self- registering  thermometer  were  exposed  on  Mount 
Campbell,  Bellot  Island,  at  an  elevation  of  about  2,100  feet  [640""].  Magnetical,  meteorologi- 
cal, and  tidal  observations  were  continued  as  usual. 

Mean  pressure,  29.891  [759.2"""]  ;  temperature.  -9.22°  [ — 22.9°  C.].  The  mean  temper- 
ature is  the  lowest  recorded  for  October,  except  at  this  station  (Stephen.son),  -9.79°  [ — 23.2" 
C],  1875.  Kxtremes  of  temperature,  -I-9.6"  [—12.4°  C]  and  -34°  [—36.7°  C.].  The 
maximum  is  the  lowest  recorded  by  over  6°  [3.3°  C.].  A  lower  minimum  has  been  recorded 
only  by  .Kane,  Van  Ren.sselaer  Harbor,  1854  — 37-8°  [ — 38.8"  C],  and  at  this  station, 
Stephenson,  1875  (-39.0°)  [-39-4°  C.]. 

vSca  temperatures  were  observed  and  the  new  ice  measured  every  fifth  day.  Ice,  November 
I,  twenty-seven  inches  thick. 

A  case  of  antcmia,  which  yielded  readily  to  treatmeni,  put  Private  Long  off  of  duly  for  a 
short  time;  otherwise  the  health  of  the  connnand  was  excellent. 


«li(| 


NOVKMBKR,    1S81. 

Winter  may  be  considered  as  having  commenced  when  the  sun  left.  The  beginning  of 
the  long  Arctic  night  found  the  expedition  in  excellent  spirits  and  full  of  hope  and  confidence 
as  to  the  spring  work.  The  autumn  work  on  the  (irinnell  Land  coast  was  successful  beyond 
anticipation.  Four  depots  had  been  established  to  the  northward;  the  condition  of  the  stores 
at  Lincoln  Bay  ascertained  ;  points  i)rcviously  unknown  reached  toward  the  interior ;  and 
practical  information  gained  as  to  the  conditions  governing  field  work  in  high  latit"des. 
The  only  drawback  was  our  inability  to  cross  Rol)eson  Charncl  in  order  to  tran.sport  caches 
of  provisions,  and  to  ascertain  the  quantity  and  condition  of  the  stores  at  Thank  (iod  Harbor. 
During  vSeptcmber,  young  ice  had  ])rcventcd  any  attempt  to  cross  the  chainiel,  and  at  the 
end  of  October,  although  the  weather  had  been  unprecedentedlj'  cold,  the  straits  could  not  be 


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THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


18 


considered  as  safe  for  sledges.  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  however,  proposed  that  a  crossing  be 
attempted  near  Cape  Beechey,  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  cliannel.  While  sensible  of  the 
very  hazardous  nature  of  such  an  attempt,  I  consented,  having  full  confidence  in  Lieutenant 
Lockwood's  prudence,  and  feeling  assured  that  his  good  judgment  would  cause  him  to  abandon 
the  effort  at  the  proper  time.  Leaving  the  station  November  2  with  eight  men,  who  had 
all  volunteered  for  the  duty,  he  returned  the  8th,  having  made  two  unsuccessful  efforts  on 
the  4th  and  5th.  The  channel  was  found  covered  with  heavy  ice,  some  of  which  was  in 
motion,  and  several  miles  from  the  shore  a  channel  of  open  water  four  or  five  hundred  yards 
wide  was  found.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  and  detailed  report  fqnn  Appendices  Nos. 
31  and  32. 

Dr.  Pavy,  who  had  left  with  two  dog-sledges,  November  3,  to  add  stores  to  depot  C  in 
Wrangel  Bay,  returned  to  the  station  the  same  day  as  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  No\'ember  8. 
Dr.  Pavy's  orders  and  reports  form  Appendices  Nos.  33,  34,  and  35. 

These  trips,  ending  twenty-three  days  after  the  sun  had  left  us,  terminated  the  autumn 
work  at  an  unprecedentedly  late  date,  the  high  latitude  being  considered.  The  expedition 
then  settled  down  to  winter  quiet. 

A  tri-weekly  school  was  commenced  during  the  month  and  kept  up  through  the  winter, 
with  benefit  to  the  men  attending.  Of  the  educational  qualifications  of  the  expedition  it  may 
be  said  that  every  man  of  the  party  but  one  could  write,  and  he  acquired  the  attainment  during 
the  winter.  A  semi-monthly  newspaper.  The  Arctic  Moon.,  continued  for  four  numbers,  excit- 
ing interest  and  affording  amusement. 

The  24th  was  appointed  as  a  day  of  thanksgiving  and  praise.  Selections  from  the  Psalms 
were  read  in  the  morning.  Amusements  of  various  kinds,  races,  rifle-sliooting,  etc.,  filled  up 
the  day  pleasantly  and  added  zest  to  the  excellent  dinner  which  followed. 

November  24  the  obser\'er  commenced  taking  daily  samples  of  the  air,  in  accordance  with 
instructions  furnished  by  Prof  Edward  Morley.     Other  observations  were  continued  as  usual. 

The  thickness  of  the  new  ice  December  i,  was  thirty-one  inches. 

Means:  pressure,  29.760  [755.9""°  ]  ;  temperature,  — 24.53°  ["~3i"4°  ^-l-  Extremes  of 
temperature,  — 3.0°  [ — 19.4°  C.]  and  — 46.0°  [ — 43.3°  C.].  The  mean  temperature  is  the 
lowest  on  record  of  any  expedition,  being  2. 15''  [1.2°  C]  lower  than  that  of  Kane,  Van  Rens- 
.selaer  Harbor,  1853.  Only  one  lower  maximum  is  known:  Kellett,  H.  M  S.  Rcso/iiii;  near 
Melville  Island,  1853  (by  5°)  [2-8°  C.].  There  are  two  lower  minima:  Parry,  Melville  Island, 
1819  (—47.0°)  [—43.9°  C],  and  Kane,  Van  Rensselaer  Harbor,  1853  (—47.9°)  [—44.4"  C.]. 

The  health  of  the  party  remained  excellent.  No  symptoms  of  scurvy  appeared,  and  no 
other  sickness  occurred. 

On  the  30th  Sergeant  Gardiner  broke  his  left  leg  while  making  a  tidal  obser\'ation.  No 
complication  followed  in  his  case ;  his  general  health  remained  good,  although  the  bone  united 
slowly. 

DECEMBER,  1881. 

December  passed  slowly.  About  the  loth,  if  at  any  time,  a  few  of  the  men  gave  indica- 
tions of  being  affected  by  the  continual  darkness,  but  such  signs  soon  disappeared,  and  cheerful 
spirits  returned.  The  Eskimo  appeared  to  be  the  most  affected.  On  the  13th  Jens  Edward 
disappeared,  leaving  the  station  in  early  morning,  without  mittens  and  without  breakfast. 
Sending  two  parties  with  lanterns  to  describe  a  half-mile  circle  around  the  station,  his  tracks 
were  soon  found,  leading  towards  the  straits.  He  was  at  once  pursued,  and  was  overtaken 
about  ten  miles  from  the  station,  near  Cape  Murchison.  He  returned  to  the  station  without 
objection,  and  in  time  recovered  his  spirits.  No  cause  for  his  action  in  this  respect  could  be 
ascertained. 


14 


TDE  LA.DY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Sergeant  Rice,  while  assisting  in  the  pursuit,  fell  on  the  ice-foot  in  the  straits  and  seriously 
injured  his  shoulder.  He  was  sent  back  in  charge  of  Private  Whisler.  The  latter  had  left 
the  station  in  zeal,  without  orders,  and  was  too  thinly  clad.  Although  the  weather  was  mod- 
erately warm  ( — 29°)  [ — 33.9°  C]  yet  over  exertion,  followed  by  reaction,  so  affected  him  that 
he  would  have  perished  from  cold  had  it  not  been  for  Sergeant  Rice's  judirlous  and  persistent 
efforts.  These  efforts  were  the  more  creditable  that  Sergeant  Rice's  right  arm  was  useless  from 
his  fall.  This  exposure  affected  somewhat  Private  Whisler's  faculties,  and  it  was  several  hours 
after  his  return  before  he  was  entirely  in  his  right  mind. 

Eskimo  Christiansen  two  days  later  gave  decided  signs  of  following  Tens'  example,  saying 
that  the  men  intended  to  kill  him.  In  this  connection  it  should  be  said  that  the  men  always 
treated  the  Eskimo  in  the  kindest  and  most  considerate  manner,  carefully  avoiding  any 
pleasantries  with  or  allusions  to  them.  This  course  had  been  enjoined  on  them  by  me  as  the 
result  of  Inspector  Smith's  advice  regarding  them,  and  from  my  knowledge  of  the  experiences 
of  previous  expeditions.  The  affair  gave  me  much  unea.siness  until  the  returning  sun  and 
commencement  of  spring  work  engaged  their  attention  and  rendered  them  more  cheerful. 

Christmas  was  celebrated  as  elaborately  as  our  surroundings  would  pennit.  The  kind 
thoughtfulness  of  friends  of  the  expedition,  some  personally  unknown  to  any  member,  had 
done  not  a  little  to  contribute  to  our  pleasure,  by  providing  a  gift  for  everj'  member  of  the 
party.  I  am  certain  that  the  heart  of  more  than  one  man  was  deeply  touched  by  these 
contributions. 

The  usual  observations  were  regularly  made  during  the  month.  Means :  pressure,  29.709 
[754.6"'"']  ;  temperature,  — 32.01°  [ — 35.6°  C.].  Maximum  temperature,  — 10°  [ — 23.3° 
C.];  minimum,  — 52.2°  [ —  46.8°  C.].  Lower  means  and  extremes  of  temperatures  have  been 
observed  but  twice  in  December. 

The  health  of  the  command  remained  good.  No  .signs  of  scurvy  were  detected.  A  few 
cases  of  indigestion  and  anaemia,  not  interfering  with  duty,  were  reported. 


JANUARY,  1882. 

The  event  of  January  was  a  storm  of  great  violence  on  the  i6th.  The  barometer  sank 
to  29.020  [737.1"""]  (0.86  inch  in  sixteen  hours),  while  the  temperature  rose  to — 9.5°  [ — 23.1° 
C]  (21.4°  [11.9°.  C]  in  seven  hours).  The  wind  attained  a  registered  velocity  of  northeast 
sixty-five  miles  per  hour,  when  the  anemometer  spindle  broke.  Without  a  doubt  a  velocity 
between  eighty  and  ninet>  miles  per  hour  was  reached.  For  nearly  an  hour  I  was  fearful  lest 
the  house  be  torn  in  pieces,  and  I  doubt  not  it  would  have  been  destroyed  but  for  its  double 
embankment  of  earth  and  snow. 

Although  six  of  the  most  active  men  devoted  their  energies  to  the  observations,  yet  one 
tidal  and  three  temperature  observations  were  missed.  The  entire  solid  covering  of  ice  moved 
perceptibly  in  the  harbor,  a  swell  of  several  inches  appeared  in  the  tidal  hole  (inside  a  snow- 
house),  and  the  tidal  rod  was  bent  and  displaced. 

Pendulum  observations  were  commenced  on  the  6th  and  ended  on  the  29th.  Forty-eight 
separate  swings  were  obtained,  on  sixteen  days,  with  corresponding  time  observations.  Ser- 
geant Edward  Israel,  Signal  Service,  a  graduate  of  Ann  Arbor  University,  observed  the  transits 
and  made  the  time  observations.  He  is  entitled  to  much  credit  for  attention  and  devotion  to 
his  work,  whi^':,  as  every  Arctic  observer  must  know,  was  of  a  trying  character.  The  mean  tem- 
perature of  the  sixteen  days  on  which  he  observed  averaged  more  than  40°  below  zero  [ — 40° 
C],  and  the  time  observations  were  made  with  the  temperature  of  the  observatory  56°  below 
zero  [ — 4f/  C.].     It  is,  perhaps,  superfluous  to  add  that  he  suffered  .somewhat  from  frost-bites. 

The  detailed  iiendulum  observations,  with  records  of  corresponding  time  observations, 
have  been  transmitted,  for  reduction  and  publication,  to  the  Superintendent  of  the  U.  S.  Coast 


TITE  LADY  PRA^JKLIX  BAY  EXPEDITTOlf. 


15 


and  Geodetic  Survey,  at  who.'ic  initiative  and  expense  the  work  was  done.  The  instructions 
of  Assistant  Charles  Peirce,  of  that  service,  were  followed  as  closely  as  practicable,  and  fortu- 
nately no  accident  or  mishap  occurred  in  the  course  of  the  observations.  The  penduluni 
itself  was  brought  back  in  good  condition,  so  that  further  comparable  observations  may  be 
made  with  that  instrument. 

Other  obseivations  were  made  as  usual. 

Means:  Pressure,  29.717  [754. 8"""'] {temperature,  —38.27°  [—39.0°  C.];  maximum,  — 9.5° 
[ — 23.1°  C.];  minimum,  — 58.2°  [ — 50.1°  C.].  Several  expeditions  have  experienced  lower 
extremes  and  means. 

Slight  symptoms  of  scurvy  appeared  in  the  case  of  Jens  Edward,  Eskimo,  who  had  been 
in  a  very  despondent  mood,  but  by  the  beginning  of  February  he  had  entirely  recovered. 
Scurvy  symptoms  occurred  in  no  other  case.  Marked  anaemia  in  one  case  put  a  man  oiTduty 
for  a  few  days.  From  the  15th  there  was  a  general  improvement  in  the  spirits  and  health  of 
the  whole  party.  ? 

FEBRUARY,  1882. 

The  beginning  of  the  month  was  marked  by  verj-  cold  and  unusually  clear  weather.  At 
mid-day  of  the  2d  the  thermometer  on  the  floe  could  be  read  without  artificial  light.  The 
increasing  evidences  of  the  returning  sun  were  closely  noted  by  all,  and  naturally  afforded 
universal  gratification.  The  minimum  temperature  of  the  winter  was  observed  on  the  3d;  the 
standard  in  instrument  shelter  (corrected  from  freezing  mercury  at  — 37-9°)  [ — 38-8°C.], 
read  — 62.1°  [ — 52.3°  C. ];  substandard  on  harbor  floe  (correc.ed),  — 63. 1°  [ — 52.8°  C.];  uncor- 
rected,-67°  [-55°  C.]. 

On  the  i6th  terminated  a  period  of  cold  probably  unparalleled  for  its  duration  and  inten- 
sity. Pure  mercury  remained  frozen  sixteen  days  and  five  hours,  while  the  corrected  mean 
temperature  on  the  floe  was — 54-6°  [ — 48.1°  C.].  Kane's  period  of  greatest  cold  for  sixteen 
consecutive  daysgavea  mean  ofbut  — 43-3°  [ — 41.8°  C.].  At  thisstation,  Stephenson,  1876, 
the  mean  for  fourteen  days  was  (uncorrected)  — 49°  [ — 45°  C.]. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood,  with  two  men  and  a  dog-sledge,  was  sent  on  the  19th  to  examine 
the  ice  from  Cape  Beechey  towards  the  Greenland  coast,  and  determine  what  route  should  be 
followed  in  crossing  Robeson  Channel  as  soon  as  the  sun  should  reappear.  They  returned  the 
22d,  having  traveled  several  miles  eastward  from  Cape  Beechey  and  found  good  ice.  Although 
mercury  was  frozen  during  their  entire  absence,  and  the  temperature  as  low  as  — 52.1° 
[ — 46.7°  C],  the  party  experienced  but  slight  frost-bites.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  and 
reports  form  Appendices  Nos.  36  and  T)]- 

Washington's  birthday  was  duly  celebrated.  Out-of-door  amusements  with  a  mean  tem- 
perature of — 44°  [ — 42.2°  C]  were  not  much  in  favor.  Races  and  target-shooting  were  par- 
ticipated in,  however.  Parties  were  occupied  the  23d  and  24th  in  mining  coal,  and  in  hauling 
it  and  other  supplies  to  Cape  Murchison. 

On  the  28th  the  sun,  after  an  absence  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  da>s,  was  seen  for 
a  few  minutes. 

Experimentstodetermine  the  velocity  of  sound  were  made  at  temperatures  as  low  as  —  55° 
[ — 48.3°  C]  and  — 61°  [ — 51.7°  C.].  More  careful  experiments  were  made  the  second  winter, 
which,  with  deductions,  form  Appendix  No.  137. 

A  hare  waj  .shot  on  the  15th,  and  later  in  the  month  two  others. 

The  greater  part  of  the  month  was  employed  in  active  preparations  for  .spiing  traveling. 
Insufficiently  equipped  originally  for  sledging  work  many  articles  had  to  be  improvised.  The 
ingenuity  of  the  party  proved  equal  to  all  demands  made  upon  it.  Pri\ates  Bender  and 
Frederick  were  entitled  to  especial  credit  for  special  devices  and  improvements  ;  the  for  uer 
in  cooking  and  the  latter  in  foot  and  tentage  gear.  Sergeants  Elison  and  Cross  succeeded 
admirably  in  the  construction  of  sledges  after  the  Greenland  and  Hudson  Bay  models. 


■  % 


1 


16 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  BXPBDITrON. 


The  new  ice  at  tlie  end  of  tlie  month  was  fifty-three  and  a  half  inclies  thick. 

Mean  pressnre,  29.765  [756.0"""] ;  tetnperature,  mean,  — 46.47°  [ — 43.6°  C]  ;  maximnm, 
—  10°  [—23.3°  C.];  minimnm,  —  62.1°  [—52.3°  C] 

Lower  minima  have  been  reported  only  by  the  expeditions  of  Kane,  Van  Rensselaer 
Harbor,  1854  (—66.4°)  [—  54.7°  C],  and  Nares,  Floeber^  Beach,  1H76  (—66.5°)  [—54.7°  C.]. 

The  mean  temperature  was  nnprecedentedly  low,  not  only  for  Febrnar}',  bnt  for  every 
month.  Tlie  nearest  Febrnary  mean,  Nares,  Floeberg  Beach,  1876.  was  8.5°  [4.7°  C] 
hijflier. 

Tlie  coldest  month  previonsly  reported  by  an  Arctic  expedition  was  by  McClnre,  Mercy 
Bay,  January,  1853,  mean  (unofficial  and  uncorrected)  — 43.^7°  [ — 42.2°  C.].  Against  this 
may  fairly  be  placed  the  mean  of  our  floe  thermometer,  for  P'^iruar)',  — 52.13°  [ — 46.7°  C] 
uncorrected,  — 48.23°  [ — 44.6°  C]  corrected.  Our  floe  thermometer  was  properly  protected 
from  radiation,  and  was  a  sub-standard,  reading  with  the  standard  under  similar  conditions. 

The  health  of  the  command  was  excellent  throughout  the  month.  This  subject  since  the 
previous  October  had  naturally  engaged  the  most  earnest  and  especial  attention  of  Dr.  Pavy 
and  myself  Special  stress  was  laid  by  me  on  the  following  points:  Thorough  and  frequent 
airing  of  beds  and  bed-clothing  to  insure  perfect  dryness ;  regular  bathing ;  change  and  va- 
riety in  diet ;  and  innocent  amusements.  A  course  of  lectures  was  commenced  in  January 
and  continued  throughout  the  winter.  lYesh  bread  of  excellent  quality,  canned  fruit,  musk- 
meat  or  birds,  and  canned  vegetables  were  all  issued  on  alternate  days.  An  ounce  of  lime- 
juice  was  taken  daily  by  each  man.  The  entire  party  was  medically  examined  each  week. 
This  subject  is  treated  more  fully  in  the  medical  report,  which  forms  Appendix  No.  103. 

MARCH,  1882.  .  . 

The  sun  having  returned,  all  thoughts  and  energies  were  turned  towards  spring  traveling. 
Lieutenant  Lockwood,  with  three  men  and  dog-sledge,  left  March  ist  for  Thank  God  Harbor, 
on  the  Cireenland  coast,  to  ascertain  what  serviceable  provisions  could  be  drawn  from  that 
point  for  the  North  Greenland  sledge  party.  A  second  sledge,  under  Private  Long,  accom- 
panied him  as  far  as  depot  B,  near  Cape  Beechey,  carrying  additional  supplies  to  that  point. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  returned  on  the  nth,  having  found  the  traveling  generally  good, 
although  in  places  very  bad.  His  route  outward  was  via  Capes  Beechey  and  Lupton;  inward 
he  traveled  overland  to  Newman  Bay  and  around  Cape  Sumner.  Although  the  roof  and  a  side 
were  gone,  the  observatory  building  at  Thank  God  Harbor  was  found  yet  standing,  and  the 
stores  fairly  protected  from  weather  and  animals.  In  quantity  and  variety  the  articles  in  no 
way  agreed  with  the  list  in  the  Polaris  narrative.  The  records  of  the  English  expedition  and 
their  store-book  were  brought  to  Fort  Conger.  They  form,  with  Lieutenant  Lockwood's 
orders  and  report.  Appendices  Nos.  38,  39,  and  40.  The  graves  of  Hall,  Hand,  and  Paul  were 
visited  and  were  found  in  good  condition.  The  English  twenty-foot  ice-boat  was  apparently 
in  good  order.  The  whale-boat  at  Polaris  Boat  Camp  was  found,  with  materials  at  hand  with 
which  she  could  be  made  serviceable. 

The  experiences  of  this  sledging  party  had  been  looked  forward  to  by  me  with  consid- 
erable anxiety.  The  journey,  latitude  and  sun  considered,  was  the  earliest  extended  one  on 
record,  and  was  made  in  the  worst  month  in  the  year.  The  party  experienced  a  severe  storm, 
and  for  ten  days  the  temperature  never  rose  higher  than  — 30°  [ — 34.4°  C.].  They  traveled 
once  in  — 55.5°  [ — 48.6°  C]  with  a  light  wind,  and  again  in  a  storm  at  — 40°  [ — 40°  C.]; 
experiencing  in  the  latter  case  frequent,  but  not  severe,  frost-bites.  The  trip  thoroughly  tested 
foot-gear,  cooking  apparatus,  sleeping-bags,  and  sledges  which  were,  to  a  certain  extent,  expe- 
rimental.    While  several  slight  defects  were  discovered,  yet  the  general  experience  inspired 


r  < 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


17 


confidence  and  reliance  during  the  main  spring  work  which  followed  later.  The  exemption 
from  severe  frost-bites  at  such  extreme  temperatures  were  guarantees  of  the  caution  and  help- 
fultiess  of  the  several  members  of  the  party. 

It  is  but  justice  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  his  party  to  notice,  in  connection  with  this 
remarkably  .successful  journey,  that  the  distance  from  Thank  God  Harbor  to  Cape  Stunnct, 
was  pas.sed  over  in  three  marches.  It  is  no  disparagement  to  Captain  Hall,  that  over  the  same 
road  and  distance  from  Thank  God  HarJ)or  to  Cape  Brevoort  six  marches  were  necessary 
during  his  journey. 

Sending  on  the  2d  to  Water-course  Bay  for  the  meat  of  two  musk-cattle,  which  had  been 
su.spended  on  a  tripod,  it  was  found  that  drifting  snow  had  enabled  wolves  and  foxes  to  reach 
it.  It  was  our  only  loss  of  meat  during  the  winter,  and  was  unimportant,  our  supply  being 
ample. 

Dr.  Pavy,  with  Sergeant  Linn,  Jens,  and  dog-sledge,  left,  March  5,  to  establish  depot  E 
on  the  Greenland  coast  for  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  spring  traveling.  His  own  supplies,  except 
such  as  were  to  be  drawn  from  the  English  depot  at  Lincoln  Bay,  had  been  cached  the 
preceding  autumn.  The  journey  was  made  under  trying  circumstances.  They  traveled 
with  the  temperature  as  low  as  — 54°  [ — 47.8°  C],  and  cro.ssed  Robeson  Channel  during  a 
northeast  gale;  temperature,  — 38°  [ — 38.9°  C.].  The  only  frost-bite  was  that  of  Eskimo  Jens 
Edward,  who,  thinking  Sergeant  Linn  sick,  slept  outside  the  bag  rather  than  disturb  him. 
Although  the  temperature  sank  that  night  to  — 44.7°  [ — 42.6°  C]  he  had  but  one  toe  frozen, 
and  that  not  severely.     Dr.  Pavy's  orders  and  reports  form  Appendices  Nos.  41  and  42. 

March  14,  Sergeant  Brainard,  with  seven  men,  started  with  the  boat  Discovery  (which 
had  been  hauled  as  far  as  Water-course  Bay  on  the  7th)  and  additional  sledging  supplies, 
which  were  to  be  cached  on  the  Greenland  coast.  They  returned  on  the  20th,  having  left  the 
boat  and  part  of  the  supplies  at  depot  E,  in  the  Gap.  Sergeant  Brainard  was  unable  to  take 
all  the  supplies  across  Robeson  Channel, or  move  depot  E  into  Newman  Bay,  within  the  time 
fixed  for  his  return,  owing  to  his  party  being  weakened  by  the  loss  of  two  men,  one  of  whom, 
attacked  with  rheumatism,  was  necessarily  seut  back  with  a  comrade  to  depot  B  to  await  the 
return  of  the  party.  In  addition  to  stormy  weather  the  party  experienced  extreme  cold,  trav- 
eling in  a  temperature  of  — 50°  [ — 45.6°  C],  and  having  a  minimum  of  — 61°  [ — 51.7°  C.]. 
The  successful  i.ssue  of  this  journey  under  such  trying  conditions  of  the  weather  and  tempera- 
ture, bears  strong  testimony  to  the  successful  management  of  field  details  by  Sergeant  Brainard, 
and  also  evidences  the  hardy  endurance  of  the  members  of  the  party.  Sergeant  Brainard' s 
report  forms  Appendix  No.  44,  and  his  orders  No.  43. 

On  March  19  Dr.  Pavy,  who  had  volunteered  his  services  for  that  special  geographical 
work,  started  for  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  whence  he  was  to  attempt  the  discovery  of  land  to  the 
northward,  over  the  Polar  Ocean.  He  was  instructed  to  keep  a  sharp  lookout  for  drift-wood 
in  order  that  no  chance  for  discovering  the  fate  of  i\\e  Jeatinclic  should  be  lost.  His  party 
consisted  of  Sergeant  Rice,  Signal  Service,  the  photographer  of  the  expedition,  and  Jens 
Edward,  driver  of  the  dog-sledge  Lil/a. 

The  Antoinette,  under  Sergeant  Jewell,  Signal  Service,  was  sent  as  a  supporting  sledge  as 
far  as  Lincoln  Bay.  Sergeant  Jewell  returned  to  the  station  March  30.  He  had,  after  leaving 
Dr.  Pavy  at  Lincoln  Bay,  transported  two  loads  of  supplies  from  depot  B  near  Cape  Beechej-, 
to  depot  E  in  the  Gap,  on  the  Greenland  coast.  Private  Ellis,  who  had  left  the  station  on  the 
23d  to  assist  in  this  work,  had  unfortunately  wet  his  feet  from  tidal  overflow,  while  en  route 
to  Cape  Beechey,  from  which  somewhat  severe,  but  superficial,  frost-bites  followed.  Ellis, 
however,  displayed  great  endurance  in  the  affair,  cro.ssing  Robeson  Channel  twice  after  his 
injury,  and  then  returned  on  foot  alone  from  Cape  Beechey  to  the  station.  Sergeant  Jewell 
was  entitled  to  great  credit  for  his  energy  and  endurance.  During  the  time  he  was  in  the  field 
the  mean  temperature  was  — 35.2°  [ — 37.3°  C.];  and,  on  five  days,  temperatures  ranging  from 
H.  Mis.  393 2 


18 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


■f  ! 


• 


f 

;  1 


— 50°  to  —  53°  [ — 46°C.  to — 47°  C]  were  recorded.  His  field  work  was  done  without  tentagC 
except  when  he  chanced  to  lie  at  Cape  Beechey.  Serjeant  Jewell's  rejxjrt  fonns  Apjxjndix 
No.  45. 

March  19,  continnons  daylight  practically  commenced,  Arctnrns  being  the  only  star 
visible  at  midnight. 

The  jolly-boat  I  a/orous  wsai  taken  to  Dutch  Lsland  on  the  31st,  and  hauled  up  on  the 
adjacent  shore,  convenient  for  use  when  the  straits  should  open. 

Four  hares  were  the  only  game  added  to  our  larder  during  the  month.  A  large  quantity 
of  musk-meat,  and  over  seventy  guillemots  from  Cireenland,  were  yet  on  hand  at  the  end  of 
the  month. 

On  the  7th  an  anemometer  and  on  the  nth  a  minimum  thermometer  were  exposed  at 
Dutch  Island  for  the  purpose  of  comparison. 

The  usual  observations  were  uninterrupted  during  the  month. 

Mean  pressure,  29.738  [755.3°""].     On  the  29th  the  barometer  touched  28.988  [736.3"""]. 

Temperature:  Mean,  — 29.94°  [ — 34.4°  C] ;  maximum,  — 7°  [ — 21.7°  C] ;  minimum, 
— 46.8°  [ — 43.8°  C.].  The  mean  and  minimum  temperatures  were  ver>'  high  for  the  latitude. 
This  was  the  fifth  consecutive  month  during  which  the  thermometer  remained  constantly  be- 
low zero  [—17.8°  C.]. 

The  black-bulb  solar  thermometer,  which  was  scaled  only  down  to  five  degrees  above 
zero  [ — 15"  C],  first  registered  on  the  loth. 

On  the  19th  the  ice  on  Lake  Alexander  was  fouhd  to  be  eighty  inches  thick,  against 
fifty-four  inches  in  the  harbor  a  few  days  later.  On  April  i  the  harbor-ice  was  fifty-five 
inches  thick. 

APRIL,  1882. 

The  early  days  of  April  were  fully  occtipied  with  the  final  arrangements  for  the  party 
selected  to  explore  the  north  coast  of  Greenland.  This  work  had  lately  been  intrusted  to 
Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood,  with  general  instructions  which  empowered  him  to  perfect 
the  necessary  field  detaiLs.  Sergeant  Brainard  and  nine  men,  dragging  the  Hudson  Bay  sledges 
Beaumont^  Hall,,  Hayes,,  and  Kane,,  left  April  3,  followed  the  next  day  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
and  two  men  with  the  Antoinette,  dragged  by  eight  dogs.  In  the  interest  of  this  journey  of 
exploration,  a  large  depot  of  provisions  had  already  been  established  under  my  directions  near 
Cape  Beechey,  and  a  second  one  on  the  Greenland  coast  near  Cape  Sumner. 

The  force  employed  consisted  of  thirteen ;  main  party,  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  Sergeant 
Brainard,  and  Eskimo  Christiansen,  with  dog-sledge  Antoinette  ;  supporting  parties,  four 
sergeants,  a  corporal  and  five  privates,  hauling  four  Hudson  Bay  sledges. 

By  the  13th  four  men  had  returned  to  the  station ;  two.  Privates  Henry  and  Whisler, 
though  physically  sound,  had  proved  unfit  for  arduous  field  work  at  such  low  temperatures ; 
Private  Connell  had  been  incapacitated  by  a  superficial  frost-bite  (the  party  having  had 
temperatures  as  low  as — 49°  [ — 45°  C.])  which  temporarily  lamed  him,  and  Private  Bieder- 
bick  had  been  attacked  by  a  bladder  trouble  which  caused  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  consider 
his  return  advisable.  The  latter  two  men  returned  reluctantly.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  re- 
tu.ned  to  the  station  on  the  14th,  and  left  again  the  same  day.  He  came  for  a  spare  set  of 
runners  to  the  Antoinette^  as  the  old  set  showed  signs  of  weakness.  His  party  and  rations 
were  then  at  Polaris  Boat  Camp,  and  he  reported  that,  although  delayed  by  violent  storms,  yet 
the  progress  of  his  work  was  not  at  all  discouraging. 

At  8  p.  m.  of  the  3d,  Sergeant  Rice,  Signal  Service,  the  photographer  of  the  expedition, 
appeared  with  Eskimo  Jens  Edward,  bringing  with  them  the  iron  shoe  of  one  of  the  runners  of 
Dr.  Pavy's  sledge,  which  had  completely  broken  down  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  at  Cape  Union. 
This  sledge  had  beeu  brought  from  Greenland,  and  was  hardly  made  of  as  choice  material  as 


%      • 


TOE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


19 


sledges  of  the  same  pattern  which  had  been  constnicted  at  Conger.  Sergeant  Rice  had 
immediately  offered  to  return  to  the  station  for  a  runner,  and  half  an  hour  after  the  acci- 
dent was  on  the  way  to  Conger  with  P^skimo  Jens.  They  arrived  at  depot  li,  .south  of  Cajie 
Beechey,  at  2.30  p.  m.  the  same  day,  after  journeyings  which  maybe  considered  as  among 
the  most  remarkable  in  Arctic  annals.  They  had  been  thirty-six  hours  without  sleep,  a!ul  in 
nineteen  hours  had  traveled  at  least  forty  mile.s,  over  a  rough  pack  in  which  much  nibble  ice 
was  interspersed.  The  temperature,  which  was  — 42°  [ — 41°  C]  at  starting,  fell  during  their 
match  to  — 56°  [ — 49°  C],  and  was  — 32°  [ — 35.6°  C]  on  their  arrival  at  Conger.  Leaving 
Fort  Conger  April  4,  Sergeant  Rice  reached  Lincoln  Bay  the  6th,  having  with  Jens  carried  the 
ninner  (which  weighed  twenty-five  pounds)  from  Cape  Beechey,  to  which  point  it  had  been 
taken  on  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  sledge. 

Other  than  this  accident,  reports  from  Dr.  Pavy  were  ver>'  encouraging.  His  team  was 
in  good  condition,  and,  except  the  load  on  his  broken  sledge,  all  his  supplies  were  at  Black 
Cape.  No  heavy  ice  whatever  could  be  seen  from  that  cape,  and  traveling  ahead  appeared 
good.  Previous  to  the  accident  he  had  expected  to  leave  the  coast  at  Cape  Joseph  Henry  by 
the  nth  of  April. 

Jupiter  was  last  seen  on  the  2d,  and  continuous  daylight  commenced  although  the  sun 
sank  a  few  degrees  below  the  horizon  until  the  nth. 

On  the  8th  the  temperature  rose  to  1.2°  [ — 17.1°  C],  after  having  remained  rontinnou.sly 
below  zero  [ — 17.8°  C]  for  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  day.s. 

Sergeant  Cross  and  Private  Bender  were  sent  on  the  19th  to  Sun  Bay  with  additional 
supplies  for  that  depot.  Their  orders  further  required  them  to  travel  as  far  into  the  Cony- 
beare  Bay  as  could  be  done  in  half  a  day's  march,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  the 
ice,  and  to  report  on  the  general  outlook  of  the  countiy  to  the  westward  of  that  bay.  This 
journey  was  ordered  with  the  hopes  of  obtaining  information  as  to  whether  that  route 
afforded  any  chance  of  a  successful  journey  to  the  westward.  On  their  return  (the  22d)  they 
'nfonned  me  tliat  they  had  gone  as  far  as  opposite  the  west  end  of  Miller  Island.  Travel 
was  heavy,  and  thick  weather  prevented  any  view  to  the  westward. 

In  view  of  our  ignorance  concerning  the  interior  of  Grinnell  Land,  I  had  long  been 
impressed  with  the  importance  of  penetrating  it,  and  had  not  doubted  the  practicability  of  such 
a  journey.  Although  imbued  with  the  idea  that  an  Arctic  .commander's  place  is  at  his  ship  or 
station,  yet  in  default  of  an  officer,  and  feeling  secure  as  to  the  condition  of  the  parties  to  the 
northward,  I  started  on  such  a  trip  April  24,  to  be  absent  not  exceeding  twenty  days. 

The  route  determined  on  was  from  Archer  Fiord  via  Conybeare  Bay.  Five  men  and  two 
Hudson  Bay  sledges  were  taken,  two  of  the  men  to  be  a  supporting  party  for  but  two  of  the 
marches.  Only  indispensable  articles  of  the  lightest  possible  character  were  taken,  from  the 
kn  -iwledge  that  even  moderate  success  must  depend  largely  upon  light  equipment.  A  single 
rubber  blanket,  a  dog  rent,  and  two  double  sleeping-bags  provided  shelter  and  bedding.  Our 
cooking-lamp  and  table  furniture  weighed  but  six  pounds. 

April  29,  a  puppy  team  of  eight,  born  at  Fort  Conger  in  November,  and  trained  by  Private 
Schneider,  hauled  their  first  load,  355  pounds.  They  were  worked  continuously  and  judiciously 
from  that  time,  and,  with  others  bom  later,  contributed  by  their  labors  most  materially  to 
our  geographical  success.  Without  such  recruits,  the  remnants  of  our  original  teams,  which, 
spared  by  contagion,  were  necessarily  overworked,  would  have  surely  failed  us. 

A  hare,  a  fox,  and  a  ptarmigan  were  obtained  during  the  month.  Two  wolves  were  seen 
near  Cape  Beechey.  A  snow-bird  was  first  seen  on  the  14th.  To  our  siirprise,  an  eagle  was 
seen  on  the  4th,  and  again  on  the  nth. 

The  thickness  of  the  ice  remained  nearly  constant,  being  50.5  inches  at  the  beginning, 
and  1.5  less  at  the  end  of  the  month. 

The  usual  observations  were  made  throughout  the  month. 


20 


TilE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Mean  pressure,  30.150  [765.8"'"].  The  barometer  at  2  p.  in.  April  9  reached  31.000 
[787.4"""],  a  rise  of  2.012  inches  [51.1"""]  (from  28.98H  [736.3"""],  March  29)  in  eleven  days — 
a  change  possibly  nnparallcled  in  Arctic  or  other  observations. 

Temperature-.  Mean,  — 8.58°  [ — 22.5°  C] ;  ma.ximum,  15°  [ — 9.4°  C.];  minimum, 
— 42.1°  [—41.2°  C.]. 

Though  one  of  the  coldest  Aprils  on  record,  it  has  been  three  times  exceeded:  1861,  Hayes, 
Port  Fonlke,  —  1 1.01°  [—23.9°  C.];  1855,  Kane,  Van  Rens.selaer  Harbor,  —  14.0°  [—25.6°  C.]; 
1876,  Stephenson,  this  .station,  —  17.27''  [ — 27.4°  C.];  and  Nares,  Floe-ljerg  Heach,  — 17.96° 
[ — 27.8°  C],  respectively.  Lower  minima,  however,  were  observed  only  in  1876  at  the  two 
latter  station:?,  — 42.5°  [ — 41.4°  C.  ]  and  — 46.5°  [ — 43.6°  C],  resjjectively. 


MAY,  1882. 

Dr.  Pavy  unexpectedly  returned  May  3  from  his  sledge  trip  to  the  northward.  The  fol- 
lowing summary  covers  the  important  details  of  his  journey: 

He  left  March  19  to  .search  for  land  north  of  Cape  Jo.seph  Henry,  and  had  been  particu- 
larly instructed  to  keep  a  careful  lookout  for  drift-wood,  and  to  bring  to  Conger  all  such,  in 
view  of  possible  tidings  of  the  Jiattnt/Zt',  accompanied  by  Sergeant  Rice,  »Signal  Ser\'ice  (the 
photographer  of  the  expedition,  who  had  volunteered  for  the  trip).  The  dog-sledge  A/i/o/'/nZ/c, 
under  Sergeant  Jewell,  Signal  Service,  was  taken  as  a  supporting  sledge  as  far  as  Lincoln 
Bay,  which  point  was  reached  in  four  days.  Visiting  that  depot  to  take  it  up,  it  was  found 
that  the  provisions  cached  at  Mount  Parry  the  previous  autumn  had  been  visited  by  a  bear, 
which  ate  .seventy  pounds  of  the  pemmican,  evidently  at  a  meal.  Sergeant  Jewell,  supporting, 
left  the  party  March  23  to  return  to  Fort  Conger,  with  the  dog-sledge  Li7/a  and  Eskimo  Jens 
Edward. 

On  April  i,  while  en  route  to  Black  Cape  with  their  last  load,  a  sledge-runner  broke  at 
Cape  Union,  which  involved  a  delay  of  five  days.  Sergeant  Rice  and  Eskimo  Jens,  making 
a  remarkable  journey  (as  mentioned  in  the  April  proceedings)  to  Fort  Conger,  returned  on  the 
6th  with  a  new  runner.  Starting  on  the  same  day,  despite  bad  ice  and  loss  of  three  days  by 
stormy  weather,  all  the  supplies  had  been  brought  up  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  and  that  point 
left  by  April  20.  The  ice  to  the  northward  appeared  to  be  of  the  rougliest  po.ssible  character, 
and  the  course  of  the  party  was  directed  towards  Cape  Hecla,  with  the  intention  of  making 
a  depot  there  and  of  traveling  thence  directly  north. 

Early  the  morning  of  the  22d  a  violent  southeast  storm  set  in.  It  subsiding,  the  party 
moved  towards  Cape  Hecla,  and  about  8  a.  m.  reached  a  channel  of  open  water.  The  lane, 
as  then  seen,  extended  from  Crozier  Island  around  Cape  Hecla,  as  far  to  the  northwestward  as 
could  be  seen  from  a  high  floe.  Towards  Cape  Hecla  the  lane  was  a  mile  in  width.  A  harbor 
seal  {PAoca  hispida)^  much  to  the  excitement  of  the  Eskimo,  was  seen  in  open  water.  By 
11.35  a.  m.  the  channel  had  increased  to  two  miles  in  width,  while  the  floe  moving  north- 
ward opened  out  the  land  to  the  west  of  Hecla,  so  that  the  three  capes — the  farthest  pre- 
sumably Cape  Columbia — were  seen. 

As  it  seemed  probable  that  open  water  did  or  would  extend  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  a  retreat 
was  then  decided  on.  Returning  immediately  to  that  cape.  Dr.  Pavy  found  that  his  party 
was  adrift  on  a  pack  in  the  Polar  Ocean.  Open  water  for  nearly  a  mile  intervened  between 
them  and  the  nearest  land.  Nothing  was  possible  except  to  watch  and  wait.  Fortunately,  on 
the  morning  of  the  23d  a  northwest  gale  set  in,  and  the  pack  drifting  eastward  touched  Cape 
Joseph  Henry  about  8  a.  m.  Abandoning  their  tent,  and  all  but  their  most  essential  articles, 
they  hastened  to  the  land  and  started  southward.  Occasional  lanes  of  water  with  moving 
pack  were  seen  until  Black  Cape  was  reached ;  thence  southward  only  solid  ice  was  met  with. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPKDITION. 


21 


The  party  were  in  a  state  of  licalth  durinjf  their  entire  trip  of  forty-six  days. 

TeniiK-ratiires  of  --30"  [ — 34°  C],  and  below,  were  common  in  the  first  twenty  days; 
the  lowest  hein^j  —52"  [—.\(^-7"  C]  March  30,  and  —56.2°  [—49''  C]  March  24.  On  the 
former  occasion  a  severe  snow-storm  followed,  (hiring  which  the  temperature  in  a  few  hours 
rose  from  — 52°  [ — 46.7°  C]  to  — 8.5°  [ — 22.5°  C.].  The  tcnii)erature  rose  first  above  zero 
[—17.8°  C.J  the  same  day  as  at  the  station,  April  8,  8  p.  m.  (-1-  4.5°)  [—  15.3°  C.].  Stormy 
weather  was  frequent,  but,  as  the  party  traveled  when  it  was  in  any  way  possible,  only  four 
days  were  lost  from  that  cau.sc. 

Traveling  was  excellent  from  Fort  Conger  to  Cape  Heechey ;  thence  hummocky  ice,  inter- 
sfx^rsed  with  rubble  and  occasionally  covered  with  snow,  was  fomid,  which  near  Wrangel  Ray 
gave  ])lace  to  large  floes  and  excellent  level  ice,  affording  good  traveling  until  at  the  end  of 
Lincoln  Hay,  where  the  worst  kinds  of  hummocks  were  met  with.  From  Lincoln  Hay 
towards  Black  Cape  there  was  an  ice-foot  fairly  good  as  far  as  Cape  Union,  but  beyond  exceed- 
ingly rough  in  many  places.  From  Cape  Union  to  Black  Cape  no  large  paleocrystic  floes 
could  anywhere  be  seen,  and  at  Floe-berg  Beach,  where  H.  M.  S.  y-Z/rr/ wintered,  1875-76, 
no  heavy  ice  nearer  tlian  one  and  a  half  miles  in  the  offing.  From  Cape  Sheridan  to  View 
Point  continuous  paleocrystic  floes  afforded,  as  a  rule,  fair  traveling.  From  View  Point  to 
Cape  Joseph  Henry  new  level  ice  was  found,  which  caused  Dr.  Pavy  to  travel  directly  north- 
ward instead  of  crossing  Feilden  Peninsulaand  James  Ross  Bay  to  Cape  Hecla,  as  recommended 
by  me.  Dr.  Pavy's  detailed  report,  supplemented  by  Sergeant  Rice's  account  of  his  detached 
trip,  ami  by  his  own  instructions,  forms  Appendices  Nos.  46,  47,  and  48. 

May  5,  Private  Schneider  left  with  puppy  team  to  haul  additional  supplies  to  depot  B, 
near  Cape  Beechey  ;  he  returned  the  next  day. 

On  the  7th  J  returned  from  the  interior  of  Grinnell  Land,  having  in  twelve  days  (fifteen 
marches)  traveled  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  with  a  loaded  sledge,  besides  seventy  miles  of 
separate  journeys,  making  a  daily  average  of  twenty-one  and  a  half  miles.  The  route  was  via 
the  southwest  part  of  Discovery  Harbor,  Sun  and  Conybeare  Bays. 

The  results  may  be  briefly  summarized  as  follows: 

Conybeare  Bay  does  not  terminate  ten  miles  inward,  as  supposed  by  Lieutenant  Aich-.r, 
R.  N.,  but  proves  to  be  a  fiord,  which  I  have  called  Chandler  Fiord.  Extending  from  Stony 
Cape  to  the  southwest.  Chandler  Fiord  terminates  in  that  direction,  about  thirty  nii.cs  inland, 
by  a  bay  (Ida  Bay),  about  four  by  si.x  miles  in  extent.  Near  Ida  Bay  the  fiord  proper  turns 
iharply  to  the  north-northwcb^:  and  continues  about  twelve  miles  farther. 

At  the  end  of  Chandler  Fiorcl  was  found  what  at  first  sight  appeared  to  be  a  glacier — rn 
almost  vertical  wall  of  ice,  fifteen  feet  high  and  about  a  mile  wide.  It  proved  to  be  the  ice-dam 
of  a  river,  from  which  fresh  water  oozed  in  small  quantities.  Following  the  river,  its  very 
tortuous  course  was  in  general  first  north  and  then  west-northwest.  It  was  found  to  have  its 
source  in  a  lake  (Lake  Hazen)  of  remarkable  extent.  The  junction  of  Lake  Hazen  and  the 
river  was  in  latitude  81°  46.5'  N.,  longitude  70°  30'  W.  Five  miles  before  reaching  Lake 
Hazen  we  were  extremely  astonished  to  find  the  ri\er  open.  The  appearance  in  April  at  this 
latitude  of  a  clear  running  stream  made  a  marked  impression  on  us,  which  was  not  diminished 
by  a  bird  (neither  snow-bunting  nor  ptannigan,  but  of  an  unknown  kind)  suddenly  flying  by. 
The  open  river  was  about  forty  yards  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  with  ice-walls  about  ten  feet 
thick,  which,  gradually  decreasing  in  thickness,  totally  disappeared  at  the  edge  of  the  lake, 
into  which  open  water  extended  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  It  was  evident  that  the  stream 
flows  the  entire  year,  and  that  at  its  source  it  rarely,  if  ever,  freezes.  Thin  ice,  along  the 
borders  of  the  junction,  shows  that  in  extremely  cold  weather  a  thin  coating  of  ice  forms,  which 
must  very  soon  be  destroyed  by  the  current.  Its  rapid  current  (the  average  gradient  of  the 
river  was  about  twenty  feet  per  mile)  and  a  water  temperature  of  32. 6°  [o.  3°  C .  ]  account  for  the 
stream  remaining  open. 


22 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Lake  Hazen  was  estimated  to  be  nearly  sixty  miles  long  and  six  miles  wide.  Its  general 
direction  is  from  east-northeast  to  west-southwest  (true).  Its  southern  shores  are  bounded  by 
ranges  of  low  hills,  not  entirely  snow-clad,  which  extend  far  to  the  southward,  with  no  prom- 
inent peak  visible.  Parallel  with  the  northern  shore  extends  a  range  of  mountains,  partly 
snow-clad,  which  were  called  the  Garfield  Range.  Through  the  valleys  of  this  ra'jge  could 
be  seen  occasional  peaks  of  those  mountains — covered  with  eternal  snow — which  I  have  called 
I  \e  United  States  Mountains,  retaining  the  nomenclature,  although  their  location  has  been 
radically  changed  from  that  originally  given  them. 

In  Lake  Hazen  several  very  smai^  ?.'=^  were  seen,  and  along  its  shore  ptarmigan  and 
hare  shot.  About  a  dozen  musk-cattle  were  seen,  and  evidences  were  found  of  exi-^nsive 
herds  wintering  in  the  adjacent  valleys. 

The  thickness  of  the  ice  on  Lake  Hazen  could  not  be  ascertained,  owing  to  the  loss  of 
our  ax.     Tht  surface  of  the  lake  was  covered  with  snow  from  one  to  two  feet  deep. 

The  saslnigi  {i.  e. ,  bands  of  drifted  snow)  on  Lake  Hazen  indicated  plainly  that  the  pre- 
\  ailing  winds  of  the  past  winter  had  been  northeasterly. 

Following  the  shore-line  about  eighteen  miles  to  the  southwest,  I  crossed  the  north  side 
of  the  lake  and  visited  a  large  glacier  (Henr'^tt?.  Nesmith  Glacier).  This  glacier  was  found 
to  discharge  into  a  small  bay,  some  four  miles  deep,  and  to  have  a  convex-shaped  front  of 
three  miles  extent.  The  perpendicular  front,  which  at  first  had  appeared  to  be  of  insignificant 
size,  towered  up  in  an  imposing  manner  on  near  approach,  and  proved  to  vary  from  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  to  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  in  height.  It  was  lowest 
where  one  of  five  surface-discharge  brooks  had  worn  it  down,  in  the  very  center.  Its  extent 
inward  could  not  then  be  determined,  as  no  view  reaching  more  than  three  or  four  miles 
distance  could  be  obtained,  although  I  ascended  the  side  of  an  adjacent  mountain,  which 
bears  north  by  east  (true). 

Knowing  tliPt  our  rations  could  not  carry  us  farther  than  we  had  already  explored  to  the 
westward,  and  fearing  the  entire  breaking  up  of  the  river,  I  returned  to  Fort  Conger,  caching 
our  surplf  stores  at  the  river,  for  the  use  of  a  future  party.  The  general  health  of  my  party 
was  excelltiit.  I  had  the  misfortune  to  badly  bruise  my  left  foot  in  rough  ice  while  in  the 
drag-belt  the  third  day  out,  and  Private  Connell  twisted  his  knee  in  sight  of  the  station  when 
rettirning;  but  neither  injury  was  serious. 

The  ice  traveled  over  was  in  many  places  remarkable.  For  some  eight  miles  in  Chandler 
Fiord  and  twenty  on  the  river  it  was  free  from  snow  and  so  smooth  that  the  sledge  and  load 
could  have  been  drawn  by  a  child.  Not  over  forty  miles  of  really  bad  ice  were  met  with 
during  the  journey.  The  weather  was  perfect  and  no  temperature  below  — 14°  [ — 25.6*^  C] 
was  experienced.  Privates  Bender,  Connell,  and.  Whisler  endured  most  cheerfully  the  pt i  va- 
tions  and  hardships  incident  to  the  trip,  and  my  success  was  due  to  the  great  endurance  and 
energy  shown  by  these  men. 

On  May  19  Sergeant  Jewell,  Corporal  Salor,  and  Private  Frederick  (one  of  Lieutenant 
Lockwood's  supporting  parties)  returned.  They  had  accompanied  Lieutenant  Lockwood  as 
far  as  Cape  Bryant,  from  wh'ch  point  he  had  sent  them  back,  their  Hud.son  Bry  sledges  being 
in  such  condition  as  to  render  them  of  no  further  assistance  to  him.  Sergeants  Linn,  Ralston, 
and  Elison  had  remained  at  Polaris  Coat  Camp  to  await  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  return,  in 
order  to  assist  him  in  managing  the  whale-boat  should  Robeson  Channel  in  the  !nean  time 
break  up.     The  entire  party  had  been  in  excellent  health  during  the  whole  trip. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  on  April  29  was  at  Cape  Brjvint,  acro.ss  the  Polar  Ocean,  about  to 
start  for  Cape  Britannia  with  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Eskimo  Christiansen,  with  the  dog-sIeclj;e 
Antoinette  and  twenty-five  days'  rations. 

Thinking  it  advisable  that  the  party  at  Polaris  Boat  Camp  should  be  visited,  Pi.  Pavy 
was  sent  by  me  to  them  on  the  loth,  taking  with  hin;  a  small  supply  of  special  provisions  for 
occasional  change  of  their  diet.     He  returned  on  the  i6th  via  Thank  God  Ha'.bor,  from  which 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


28 


place  lie  brought  one  Irindred  and  ten  pounds  of  pennnican,  a  j^rindstone,  and  three  books 
belonging  to  the  f-nglish  Arctic  expedition.  The  books  were  abandoned  at  Fort  Conger.  No 
written  report  of  this  trip  was  made  by  Dr.  Pavy. 

May  15,  Privates  Long  and  Whisler  started  down  Archer  Fiord  to  examine  the  English 
depot  cached  there.  They  reLurned  the  19th,  having  gone  with  the  Hudson  Bay  sledge  below 
Keppel  Head,  whence  Private  Long  had  reached,  on  snow-shoes.  Hillock  Depot,  where  eighty- 
four  rations  were  found  in  good  order  except  the  bread.  This  short  journey  was  made  at  the 
request  of  Private  Long,  who  was  desirous  of  field  service,  but  was  debarred  from  the  longer 
journey.'"  owing  to  the  advice  of  the  surgeon.     Long's  report  is  to  be  found  as  Appendix  No.  49. 

Twc  men  were  occupied  the  21st,  24th  to  26tli  in  hauling  coal  from  the  mine  to  the  ice- 
foot on  Water-course  Bay.  May  24,  a  garden  was  dug  and  planted,  which  totally  failed,  owing 
probably  to  alkali  or  other  salts  in  the  earth  at  the  selected  spot. 

Sergeant  Edward  Israel,  Signal  Service,  the  astronomer  of  the  expedition,  and  Private 
Council  left  on  the  25th  to  follow  up  the  Bellows  and  ascertain  whether  it  afforded  a  practi- 
cable route  to  J^ake  Hazen.  They  returned  on  the  30th,  having  reached  the  end  of  the  valley. 
Sergeant  Israel  determined  the  position  of  several  points  during  his  absence.  About  Ihirty- 
six  musk-oxen  were  seen  and  three  killed;  no  more  being  slaughtered  for  fear  the  men.i.  would 
spoil.     Sergeant  Israel's  report  is  to  be  found  in  Appendix  No.  50. 

The  temperature  at  9  a.  m.  of  the  28th  rose  to  32.5°  [0.3°  C],  after  having  been  continu- 
ously below  the  freezing-point  of  water  two  hundred  and  seventy-two  days. 

On  the  29tli  I  v" sited  Lake  Alexandra.  May  31,  "Decoration  Day,"  was  celebrated  by 
decorating,  as  far  as  our  means  would  pennit,  the  head-stones  of  the  dead  of  H.  M.  S.  Dis- 
covery.    The  initiative  in  this  matter  was  taken  by  the  enlisted  men  of  the  expedition. 

May  31,  Sergeant  Rice  (photographer)  was  sent  with  the  dof-teams  to  the  Bellows  to  make 
some  negatives  and  bring  in  the  musk-meat.  He  was  accompanied  as  far  as  Sun  Bay  by 
Private  Biederbick,  who  was  ordered  to  make  half  a  day's  march  into  Black  Rock  Vale  to 
deterini:ie  its  extent  and  general  direction,  with  reference  to  further  exploration  of  the  interior. 

Game  near  the  station  was  very  scarce ;  one  hare  only  was  obtained.  Two  ptarmigau 
and  two  hares  were  shot  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Hazen.  A  snowy-owl  {Nyctea  scandiaca)  was 
seen  on  the  8th,  and  a  burgomaster-gull  {Larus  glancus)  on  the  i4tli.  Five  square-flipper 
seals  {Phoca  barbaia),  weighing  in  the  aggregate  2,717  pounds,  were  killed. 

The  harbor-ice  attained  on  May  31  its  maximum  thickness,  59^  inches,  being  zoy'^  Miches 
thicker  than  observed  by  H.  M.  S.  Discovery  in  the  same  harbor,  1876.  Oil  the  31st  the  ice 
in  the  straits  (Robeson  Channel,  Hall  Basin,  and  Kennedy  Channel)  appeared  as  firm  and 
solid  as  ever;  no  water  except  from  tidal  cracks  was  anywhere  visible. 

The  usual  observation,-  were  uninterrupted  during  the  month. 

Mean  pressure,  30.133  [765.4°""];  temperature  +17.41°  [ — 8.1°  C.];  extremes  of  tempera- 
ture, +33.8°  [i.oC]  and  +1.3°  [ — 17.1°  C.].  No  expedition  north  of  Smith's  Sound  has 
before  experienced  so  warm  a  May,  and  none  other  even  in  that  sound  has  recorded  a  May 
minimum  above  zero  [ — 17.8°  C,].  No  temperature  below  zero  [ — 17.8°  C]  was  recorded 
by  either  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  parties,  but  on  a  single  occasion  it  was  noted  by  me  in- 
land on  Lake  Hazen. 

The  health  of  the  command  continued  excellent. 


JUNE,  1882. 

On  June  i  Lieutenant  Lockwood  returned  from  tin-  exploration  of  North  Greenland 
and  the  discovery  of  Hazen  Coast.  The  general  features  ai.d  results  of  the  trip  are  here  given, 
but  correct  details  are  to  be  found  in  the  very  interesting  iid  excellent  report  made  by  Lieu- 
tenant Lockwoodj  v/hich  forms,  with  his  instructions,  Appendices  Nos.  51,  52,  and  53. 


24 


T;  Ji  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION, 


f 


^ 


The  parties,  as  before  stated,  left  Fort  Conger  April  3  and  4.  Their  energies  were  first 
devoted  to  accumulating  at  Polaris  Boat  Camp,  Newman  Bay  (which  place  had  been  fixed 
on  as  the  base  of  operations),  stores  cached  at  various  depots.  Very  low  temperatures  and 
a  succession  of  violent  gales  not  only  delayed  this  work,  but,  entailing  on  the  men  severe 
physical  sufferings,  necessarily  impaired  their  strength  and  energies.  The  temperature  fell 
on  two  days  below  — 40°  [ — 40°  C.];  and  as  low  as  — 48.8°  { — 44-9°  C]  was  recorded.  Four 
men  suffered  to  such  an  extent  from  this  work  (one  from  frost-bite,  fortunately  superficial), 
that  i*  was  thought  their  further  continuance  with  the  party  would  not  be  conducive  to  ulti- 
mate success,  and  they  were  consequently  ordered  back  to  the  station. 

On  April  16,  however,  the  party  started  from  Boat  Camp  for  Cape  Bryant  with  300  rations 
for  the  men  and  about  350  for  the  dogs.  Over  2,000  pounds  were  dragged — sledge  Antoinette, 
hauled  by  eight  dogs,  743  pounds;  Hudson  Bay  sledges  Hall,  Hayes,  and  an  extemporized 
sledge,  Narcs,  dragged  by  seven  men  (Sergeants  Brainard,  Jewell,  Ralston,  Linn,  and  Elison; 
Corporal  Salor  and  Privt  te  Frederick),  i,  276  pounds.  Average  weights,  93  pounds  per  dog  and 
182  pounds  per  man.  The  route  followed  (via  Gorge  Creek  and  Lost  River)  left  the  Cap 
Valley  of  the  English  to  the  west,  and  brought  the  party  out  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Ocean 
somewhat  to  the  eastward  of  Repulse  Harbor.  The  journey  from  Boat  Camp  to  Stanton 
Gorge  was  tedious  and  tr>'ing  in  the  extreme,  snow  falling  the  greater  part  of  the  time,  and 
the  temperature  falling  as  low  as  — 40°  [ — a^S  C.].  Bad  traveling  made  doubling  tip  (/.  e., 
advancing  only  half  the  load  at  a  time  by  the  w''.ole  party)  necessary;  and  a  runner  of  the 
Antoinette  breaking  caused  the  abandonment  of  the  Nares.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  per- 
severance <ind  energy  (he  traveling  often  three  times  over  the  same  road)  continually  inspired 
the  men  to  renewed  exertions,  and  on  the  27th  the  party,  with  all  its  supplies,  was  at  Cape 
Brj'ant.  The  coast  line  had  been  closely  followed,  the  party  being  driven  to  the  floe  only 
at  Black  Horn  Cliffs.  Forty  rations  cached  in  1876  at  Stanton  G  rge  by  Lieutenant  Beau- 
mont, R.  N.,  were  taken  to  Bryant;  they  proved  barely  eatable. 

The  rough  ice  encountered  had  so  damaged  the  sledge  Hayes  that  it  was  abandoned,  and 
feaiing  that  //i?// would  be  totally  disabled  by  further  advance,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  decided 
to  send  back  all  of  his  supporting  party  and  continue  onward  with  the  dog-sledge  Antoinette. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  spoke  in  the  highest  praise  of  the  extraordinary  pluck  and  energy 
displayed  by  his  supporting  party,  and  also  of  their  expressed  desire  to  continue  to  the  north- 
ward of  Cape  Bryant.  The  trials  and  sufferings  of  a  party  traveling  in  the  fiel'-'.  under  such 
conditions,  with  temperatures  at  times  below  that  of  freezing  mercury,  are  such  that  only  men 
who  possess  marked  mental  determination  and  fine  physical  powers  can  ever  hope  to  endure 
them. 

On  April  29  Sergeant  Linn  and  party  started  on  their  return  to  Polaris  Boat  Camp,  while 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  left  for  Cape  Britannia  with  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Eskimo  T.  F. 
Christiansen.  He  took  twenty-five  days'  rations,  which,  with  other  weights,  made  a  total  of 
783}^  pounds,  or  98  pounds  per  dog. 

Cape  Britannia  was  reached  May  4,  in  six  marches,  during  four  of  which  soft  snow,  some- 
times to  the  knees,  made  traveling  so  bad  as  to  necessitate  doubling  up.  The  cape  proved  to 
be  in  somewhat  lower  latitude  than  had  been  expected;  its  position  is  82°  44'  N.,  49°  41.5'  W. 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  ascended  the  headland,  elevation  about  1,930  feet  [588"'],  which  com- 
mands an  extensive  view.     He  says : 

"We  were  apparently  on  an  island  ;  its  most  northern  limit  ended  in  a  bold  headland,  a 
half  dozen  miles  c'.istant.  Away  to  the  northeast  (or  a  little  to  the  Kc^uth  of  it)  was  a  bold 
headland,  some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  off,  the  termination  of  a  promortory  or  an  island 
stretching  to  the  north.  Iietwecu  it  and  me  were  the  projecting  capes  of  three  similar  bodies 
of  land  further  to  the  right,  all  separated  by  great  fiords  stretching  to  the  south,  and  over- 
lapping one  another  so  that  little  could  be  seen  to  the  south  of  them  but  a  confused  mass  of 
snow-covered  peaks. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


25 


"Towards  the  north  and  we&i:  the  eye  rested  on  nothing  but  the  ice  pack,  till  Beaumont 
Island  was  reached ;  after  that  the  mountains  near  Cape  Bryant.  Stephenson  Island  is  evi- 
dently an  island,  for  the  opening  of  a  fiord  that  separates  it  from  Cape  May  can  be  seen,  and 
on  its  east  is  an  immense  fiord  running  to  the  south.  The  two  fiords  are  (to  all  appearances) 
connected.  No  land  is  visible  at  the  hej^d  of  the  large  one.  To  the  east  of  this  the  coast 
trended  off  towaiJs  the  southeast,  forming,  with  the  south  side  of  die  Britannia  coast,  an 
immense  funnel  ending  in  a  fiord.  All  to  the  south  is  an  indistinct  mass  of  snow-covered 
mountains. 

"A  cairn  was  built  and  a  record  deposited." 

At  Cape  Britannia  were  cached  five  days'  provisions  for  their  return,  and  also  every  other 
article  which  could  be  spared,  as  extra  sledge-runner,  snow  shoes,  etc.  In  starting,  May  5, 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  \v  .^  thus  enabled  to  travel  without  doubling  up.  Following  the  coast, 
which  trended  first  to  the  north-northwest,  Cape  Frederick  was  rounded  in  latitude  83°  51'  N. 
and  the  course  then  changed  to  northeast  from  headland  to  headland,  across  fiords  and  bays. 
Fair  weather,  which  had  prevailed  since  leaving  Cape  Bryant,  gave  place  to  wind  and  snow  on 
the  7th  and  8th,  bat  the  party  continued  marching,  and  on  the  latter  day  Low  Point,  temporarily 
named  Cape  Ben^t,  83°  07'  N.,  about  47°  W.,  was  reached.  Thenceforward  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  had  the  gratification  of  traveling  on  land  situated  farther  ^o  the  north  than  had 
ever  before  been  known. 

The  northeast  trend  continued  to  Cape  Alexander  Ramsay  (Cape  Surprise),  beyond  which 
point  it  changed  to  the  ^^^.  ..o  far  as  Cape  Mohn,  83°  10'  N.,  43°  W.  (nearly).  In  one  march 
more  beyond  this  point  to  the  northeast,  made  under  trying  circumstances  with  high  wind 
and  drifting  snow,  Cape  Hoffmeyer  (Storm  Cape)  was  passed,  and  Mary  Murray  Island  (Shoe 
Island)  reached — the  latitude  83°  19'  N.,  longitude  42°  21'  W.  Here  the  storm,  which  had 
alrer.dy  continued  four  davs,  attained  such  violence  that  further  travel  was  impossible,  and 
they  camped  there  sixty-two  hours.  They  could  ill  afford  such  a  delay,  and,  to  counteract 
its  serious  effects  on  the  success  of  their  journey,  they  decided  to  eat  as  rarely  as  possible,  and 
permitted  intervals  of  sixteen,  twenty-four,  and  seventeen  hours  to  pass  between  successive 
meals.  As  the  Arctic  sledging  ration  means  just  enough  food  to  maintain  life  and  vigor,  this 
resolution  on  their  part  shows  how  strong  was  their  determination  for  utmost  success. 

At  12.30  a.  m..  May  13,  the  northeast  storm,  though  continuing  with  snow,  had  yet  abated 
to  such  an  extent  that  travel  was  possible,  and  Mary  Murray  Island  was  left  to  the  south- 
ward.    At  noon  of  that  day  "The  Farthest,"  an  Island,  was  reached. 

This  island,  the  most  northerly  that  man's  foot  has  ever  trod,  I  have  named  I<ockwood 
Island.     It  is  in  83°  24'  N.,  40°  46'  W.     Of  this  point  Lieutenant  Lockwood' s  report  says: 

"  Presently,  the  weather  clearing,  a  large,  wide  inlet,  with  cliffs  and  mountains  on  its  farther 
side,  opened  up  to  view,  forming  a  grand  panorama,  the  most  remarkable  yet  observed.  To 
the  right  oblique  the  line  of  cliffs  ended  in  a  cape,  from  which  the  coast  turned  abruptly  to 
the  south,  and  then  ran  in  a  curve  toward  the  southeast,  forming  from  the  western  shore  of 
the  inlet.  Directly  ahead  was  a  pyramid-shaped  island  (Brainard  Island)  of  considerable  alti- 
tude, which  seemed  to  touch  the  line  of  cliffs  back  of  it.  This  line  of  cliffi  ran  almost  north 
and  south,  ending  in  a  cape  to  the  northeast  of  our  position  (Cape  Kane),  and,  on  the  other 
hand,  gradually  curving  back  to  the  southeast  and  forming  the  eastern  side  of  the  inlet  (Wey- 
preclit  Inlet).  A  little  to  the  south  of  the  island  refenod  to  is  another,  apparently  of  a  cone 
shape.  The  land  to  their  rear  towered  up  to  an  enormous  height,  and  formed  a  mountain 
cp'-^'inly  not  less  than  four  thousand  feet  [1,219"'],  completely  dwarfing  the  islands  and  cliffs 
beneath. ' ' 

Only  sufficient  food  remained  to  cover  the  time  required  by  instructions  to  be  spent  at 
"The  Farthest,"  to  determine  accurately  its  latitude  and  longitude,  and  to  obtain  botanical 


2C 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIJf  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


and  geological  specimens.  Sets  of  circiini-nieridian,  subpolar,  and  time  observations  were 
made.  These  observations,  worked  up  by  Gauss's  method,  give  latitude  83°  2.^.8'  N.,  longi- 
tude 40°  46'  W. 

Vegetation  was  somewhat  scantier  than  to  the  southward.  Quite  a  number  of  plants 
(saxifrages,  grasses,  and  the  poppy)  were  obtained.  Numerous  geological  specimens  were  pro- 
cured, principally  schistose  slate.  Traces  of  hares  and  foxes,  feathers  of  a  ptarmigan,  and 
tracks  of  a  lemming  were  observed,  and  snow-birds  seen.  A  lemming  was  caught  near 
83°  79'.  Musk-oxen  and  bears  are  occasional  visitors  in  this  locality,  traces  having  been 
seen  on  the  coast  just  north  of  the  eighty-third  parallel. 

May  14,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  ascended  the  cliffs  overshadowing  his  camp — elevation 
upwards  of  two  thousand  feet  [616*"].  There  the  national  ensign  was  given  to  tlie  breeze 
in  the  highest  latitude  ever  reached  by  man,  and  on  land  farther  north  than  any  which  had 
ever  before  met  his  vision.  For  the  first  time  in  two  hundred  and  seventy-five  years  another 
nation  than  England  claimed  the  honors  of  the  farthest  north,  and  the  Union  Jack  gave  way 
to  the  Stars  and  Stripes. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood,  in  describing  the  prospect  from  the  mountain,  says: 
' '  It  commanded  a  very  extended  view  in  every  direction.  The  route  of  our  last  journey 
laid  very  distinct.  Beyond  (Mary  Murray  Island)  Shoe  Island  lay  a  dark  cape  (probably  Cape 
Alexander  Ramsay),  but  I  could  not  exactly  identify  it.  It  bore  northwest  (mag.)  by  pocket 
compass.  Between  the  cape  this  side  and  my  position  lay  the  broad  fiord  last  crossed  (Wild 
Fiord),  extending  in  a  curve  to  the  southeast,  its  course  shut  out  by  the  high  mountains  south 
of  me.  To  the  northeast  (about)  projected  another  rocky  headland  (Cape  Kane);  to  the  north 
and  at  its  foot  I  could  perceive  a  low  shore  projecting  out  and  forming  another  cape  (Cape 
Washington)  some  distance  beyond,  doubtless  separated  from  the  first  by  a  fiord  (W.  B.  Hunt 
Fiord)  as  the  first  was  from  the  promontory  on  which  we  stood.  The  fiord  (Conger  Fiord) 
jmt  to  the  east  extended  south  until  shut  out  by  the  mountains  south  of  us,  but  it  presented 
every  appearance  of  connecting  in  that  direction  with  the  fiord  last  crossed.  The  horizon  be- 
yond, on  the  island  side,  was  concealed  by  numberless  snow-covered  mountains,  one  profile 
overlapping  another,  and  all  so  merged  together,  on  account  of  their  universal  covering  of 
snow,  that  it  was  impossible  to  detect  the  topography  of  the  region.  To  the  north  lay  an  un- 
broken expanse  of  ice,  interrupted  only  by  the  horizon.  Could  see  no  land  anywhere  between 
the  two  extreme  capes  referred  to,  although  I  looked  long  and  carefully,  as  also  did  Sergeant 
'Jrainard.  Delayed  on  top  twenty  minutes.  Left  a  short  record  in  a  small  tin  box  under  a 
few  small  stones  (there  were  no  large  ones)." 

The  most  northerly  land  seen.  Cape  Washington,  was  estimated  to  be  in  83°  33'  N.,  and 
the  most  easterly  land  in  longitude  38°. 

At  the  northeast  point  of  Lockwood  Island  was  erected  a  large  cairn,  about  thirty  feet 
(9'")  above  the  sea-level,  in  which  were  deposited  a  record  of  the  journey  and  a  minimum 
thermometer,  which  registers  to  — 65°  [ — 54°  C.]. 

Starting  May  15,  on  his  return.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  reached  Cape  Britannia  in  five 
marches  and  Cape  Bryant  in  nine.  Four  of  these  marches  were  made  in  stonny  weather. 
There  being  but  eight  days'  rations,  no  delay  was  practicable.  The  return  rations  were  ex- 
hausted at  their  last  camp,  before  reaching  Cape  Bryant.  At  Cape  Bryant  one  day  was  given 
to  the  tides,  but  unfortunately  no  reliable  observations  were  obtained : 

"  One  cause  of  want  of  success  seemed  to  be  a  tide  or  current  which  inclined  the  rope  to 
the  right  (east),  and  wlien  the  stone  was  raised  and  lowered  several  times  in  succession  it 
seemed  to  take  a  different  level  on  each  occasion.  The  divisions  on  the  rope  were  made  with 
string  tied  around  it.     Several  crustaceans  were  brought  from  the  bottom  with  the  stone. 

"Tlie  depth  of  the  sea  in  tidal  crack  about  half  a  mile  from  shore  was  one  hundred  and 
three  feet  [31'"]." 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


27 


About  half  a  mile  inland,  and  some  distance  east  of  Cape  Bryant,  Lieutenant  Beaumont's 
cache  was  found,  but  no  cairn.  Quite  a  number  of  articles,  Enfield  rifle,  etc.,  were  visible 
on  the  mound,  but  iio  tent,  pemmican,  or  spirits  of  wine,  which,  possibly  left  below  the 
mound,  may  have  been  covered  by  snow  which  lay  there  several  feet  deep. 

Caching  all  extra  supplies  at  Cape  Bryant,  for  the  use  of  future  parties,  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood  left  May  26,  and  passing  Repulse  Harbor  on  the  28th,  discovered  and  opened  Lieutenant 
Beaumont's  cairn.  The  weather  being  very  bad  and  documents  long,  he  took  shorthand 
copies  and  redeposited  the  originals. 

Polaris  Boat  Camp  was  reached  May  29,  and  Sergeants  Linn,  Ralston,  and  Elison  found 
in  good  health.  The  supporting  party  had  reached  the  camp.  May  5,  in  six  marches.  Ser- 
geant Jewell,  Corporal  Salor,  and  Private  Frederick  had  left  May  6  for  the  home  station. 

The  party  remaining  had,  during  their  monotonous  stay  of  twenty-five  days,  experienced 
almost  constantly  violent  wind-storms.  Two  bears  had  visited  the  encampment  May  17, 
while  the  party  were  asleep.  These  animals  came  from  Newinan  Bay  and  went  south 
along  the  coast  via  Cape  Sumner. 

All  extra  stores  were  cached  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  in  the  whale-boat  for  future  use. 

Leaving,  May  30,  Robeson  Channel  was  crossed  in  one  march ;  Cape  Beechey,  about 
thirty  miles  distant,  being  reached  in  thirteen  hours'  travel.  Their  course  could  be  deter- 
mined only  by  compass,  as  a  violent  northeast  snow-storm  prevailed.  Snow-blindness  attacked 
three  of  the  party,  from  which  they  suffered  during  the  two  succeeding  marches. 

The  work  of  this  sledge  party  extends  our  knowledge  of  North  Greenland  eleven  degrees 
of  longitude  to  the  east,  and  nearly  a  degree  of  latitude  to  the  north. 

The  new  coast — Hazen  coast — trending  to  the  northeast,  is  a  succession  of  high,  rocky,  and 
precipitous  promontories,  probably  the  north  projections  of  islands  in  many  cases,  with 
intervening  inlets.  Immense  fiords  extend  inland  long  distances,  while  the  interior  of  the 
country  is  a  confused  mass  of  snow-covered  mountains. 

A  most  remarkable  feature  along  the  coast  was  what  is  termed — in  default  of  a  better 
name — "The  Tidal  Crack."  This  "crack"  extended  from  Cape  May  to  Beaumont  Island, 
thence  to  Cape  Frederick;  and  from  headland  to  headland,  with  gentle  curves  southward  across 
the  fiords,  to  Lockwood  Island.  Whenever  the  party  was  driven  from  a  floe  to  the  headland, 
it  was  necessary  to  cross  it,  and  then  a  narrow  practicable  place  was  readily  found,  although 
the  width  of  it  was  at  times  several  hundred  >  ards.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  opines,  in  which 
I  concur,  that  the  crack  results  from  the  almost  constant  motion  of  the  Polar  pack. 

At  about  82°  40'  N.,  and  51°  W.,  a  sounding  was  made.  Eight  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
(250"')  of  line  and  thongs — everything  that  was  available — were  used,  but  no  bottom  was 
found.  In  83°  20'  N.,  63°  W.,  Commander  A.  R.  Markham,  R.  N.,  in  1876  found  bottom  at 
four  hundred  and  thirty- two  feet  (130™). 

The  ice-foot  was  slight  and  illy-defined  north  of  Cape  Bryant.  The  fiords  and  bays  were 
immense  expanses  of  level  snow,  their  regular  surface  rarely  broken  by  hummock  or  floe- 
berg.  This  to  me  seems  to  indicate  that  Victoiia  inlets  are  but  entrances  to  a  fiord,  not  to  a 
strait,  and  that  the  interior  country  is  the  mainland  of  Greenland. 

The  most  gratifying  feature  of  this  work  has  been  its  entire  freedom  from  sickness.  One 
trifling  case  of  frost-bite  and  a  few  slight  cases  of  snow-blindness  comprised  the  list  of  ailments. 

In  accomplishing  this  work,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  displayed  remarkable  energy,  courage, 
and  perseverance.  His  success,  which  I  cannot  judge  as  otherwise  than  as  grateful  to  the 
country,  was  won  only  by  great  endurance  and  much  physical  suffering  on  the  part  of  himself 
and  his  party.  I  cannot  but  especially  invite  the  attention  of  the  War  Department  to  his 
work,  and  commend  his  memory  to  the  favorable  consideration  of  his  superiors.  His  labors 
in  extending  northward  the  limits  of  Greenland,  and  later  in  determining  the  western  outlines 
and  the  interior  conditions  of  Griunell  Land,  resulted  in  important  additions  to  our  knowledge 


28 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


of  the  physical  features  of  that  part  of  the  Arctic  circle.  His  work  reached  from  Cape  Wash- 
ington 38°  W.,  to  Arthur  lyand  83°  W.,  thus  covering  above  the  eightieth  parallel  one-eighth 
of  the  circle  of  the  globe.  He  worthily  upheld  the  honor  of  the  American  for  courage,  energy, 
and  perseverance.  If  his  tragic  fate  awakened  the  sympathy  of  the  world,  none  the  less 
should  his  successful  work  receive  recognition.  He  unfortunately  did  not  return  for  merited 
promotion.  Under  similar  ci  rcnmstances  it  would  have  seemed  grateful  had  my  death  and 
services  been  announced  to  the  Army  in  General  Orders,  and  such  tribute  I  trust  may  yet  seem 
proper  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  memory. 

Sergeants  Linn,  Ralston,  Jewell,  Elison,  Corporal  Salor,  and  Private  Biederbick  were, 
separately  and  collectively,  commended  by  Lieutenant  Lockwoc  1  for  their  energy  and  the 
spirit  of  determination,  alacrity,  and  willingness  shown  by  them  under  all  difficulties.  Al- 
though Liun  was  troubled  with  snow-blindntss  at  Cape  Bryant,  and  Frederick  had  a  sprained 
knee,  both  were  anxious  to  go  farther.  I  cannot  forbear  adding  that  their  excellent  conduct 
in  the  field  was  but  in  thorough  keeping  with  the  general  chardCters  of  all  these  men.  The 
Eskimo  F.  T.  Christiansen  showed  himself  attentive,  willing,  laborious,  and  very  reliable. 

No  one  who  is  without  a  practical  experience  of  Arctic  field  service  can  fully  appreciate 
the  extraordinary  energy  and  determination  which  these  men  must  have  put  forth  to  accom- 
plish so  successfully  the  task  put  before  them.  The  healthfulness  and  adaptability  of  the 
different  members  of  the  party  is  shown  by  their  return  in  perfect  health,  though,  of  course, 
physically  exhausted,  despite  the  fact  that  the  greater  part  of  their  marches  and  encampments 
were  made  without  the  supervision  of  an  officer. 

Of  Sergeant  Brainard  Lieutenant  Lockwood  says  : 

"Sergeant  Brainard,  both  when  commanding  a  supporting  party  and  afterwards  as  one 
of  the  advance  partj',  showed  on  all  occasions  such  good  judgment,  energy,  cheerfulness,  and 
willingness  to  promote  the  expedition,  that  I  cannot  commend  him  too  highly." 

It  is  justice  to  add  that  Sergeant  Brainard  was,  of  necessity,  repeatedly  assigned  by  me, 
in  connection  with  the  work  of  the  expedition,  to  an  officer's  command,  and  that  his  con- 
duct was  imiformly  such  as  to  win  commendation.  Apart  from  his  valuable  services  in  the 
field,  I  belic'e  that  he  possesses  qualities  which  merit  reward,  and  which  would  render  his 
promotion  to  the  grade  of  second  lieutenant  in  the  Army  most  suitable.  I  "most  heartily  and 
earnestly  recommend  such  promotion. 

On  June  2  Sergeant  Rice  and  party  returned.  Private  Biederbick's  trip  had  been  successful 
and  i^roved  that  inland  travel  was  practicable.  He  went  sixteen  miles  up  Black  Rock  Valley, 
the  general  direction  of  which  is  west-northwest  (true).  A  lake,  f  ve  miles  long  and  nearly  a 
mile  wide,  was  discovered,  which  I,  at  the  time,  called  Lake  Heintzelman.  Private  Biederbick's 
report  forms  Appendix  No.  54. 

Additional  supplies  were  sent  by  dog-sledge,  under  charge  of  Private  Frederick,  to  Sun 
Bay  on  the  3d.  The  same  day  Sergeant  Jewell  and  Corporal  Salor  were  sent  to  Cape  Baird 
to  examine  the  depot  established  the  previous  autumn.  They  returned  after  twenty  hours' 
travel,  being  unable  to  find  the  tent,  which  must  have  been  blown  down — probably  ditring 
the  violent  storm  of  January  16 — and  later  covered  with  drifting  snow. 

On  the  5th  Private  Connell  discovered  at  Proteus  Point,  near  the  station,  traces  of  previous 
Eskimo  habitation.  Search  resulted  in  a  number  of  relics:  toggles  for  dog-traces,  spear- 
heads, etc.  Quite  a  number  of  other  remains  were  found  along  the  shore  of  Discovery  Harbor 
and  near  Discovery  Cape,  which  proved  the  possession  by  these  natives  of  dogs,  sledges,  lamps 
(stone),  wood  (in  small  quantities),  the  porous  bone  of  the  whale,  walrus,  and  narwhal  ivory. 
One  piece  of  bone-work  was  especially  neat,  ingenious,  and  delicate.  Sergeant  Brainard  later 
found  numerous  traces  of  summer  encampments  on  the  shores  of  the  southwest  part  of  Dis- 
covery Harbor  and  Sun  Bay  (about  sixteen  to  eighteen  miles  from  Conger).  Numerous 
remains  of  hunting  implements,  dog  and  sledge  gear,  etc. ,  were  found.     While  indications 


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THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


29 


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■s     E 


were  in  general  of  summer  encampments,  one  hut,  about  five  feet  square,  of  flat  stones, 
seemed  a  habitation  of  more  than  transient  character.  It  had  sides  about  one  and  one-half 
feet  [.457'ii]  high  ;  the  roof  had  fallen  in. 

Sergeant  L,inn  and  Private  Bender  were  sent,  the  5th,  to  explore  Black  Rock  Valley,  and 
ascertain  its  practicability  as  a  wagon  or  sledge  route  to  Lake  Hazen.  They  returned  the  9th 
and  reported  that  the  lake  could  be  reached  with  wagon,  but  only  with  great  difficulty.  They 
had  reached  a  point  where  water  drained  inland,  and  whence  what  was  thought  to  be  the  eastern 
end  of  Lake  Hazen  could  be  seen.  A  large  glacier,  which  divided  into  four  streams,  coiild  be 
seen,  and  two  small  lakes  were  discovered.     Sergeant  Linn's  report  is  Appendix  No.  55. 

On  the  8th  samples  of  water  were  obtained  from  eight  different  strata  of  a  paleocrystic  floe- 
berg,  which  was  about  thirty  feet  (9'")  in  thickness  and  above  the  ordinary  ice.  These 
samples  were  necessarily  abandoned  at  Fort  Conger. 

June  9,  Sergeant  Gardiner  and  Private  Schneider  were  sent  with  the  dog-team  to  Cape 
Beechey  to  secure  depot  B  against  summer  floods,  while  Sergeant  Rice  accompanied  them  to 
depot  A,  Cape  Murchison,  for  photographic  work.  They  all  returned  on  the  nth  and  reported 
both  depots  to  be  in  good  condition. 

June  10,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  with  Sergeant  Brainard  and  ^"kimo  Christiansen — all  of 
whom  were  but  nine  days  returned  from  the  Discovery  of  Hazen  coast — left  with  the  dog-sledge 
AnloiiH'tte  on  a  tentative  trip  down  Archer  Fiord.  As  the  snow  was  melting  freely  when 
they  started — temperature  during  the  day  as  high  as  38°  [3.3°  C] — it  was  not  to  be  expected 
that  much  distance  could  be  made.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  reached  Hillock  depot  in  a  march 
and  a  half,  whence,  as  the  water  on  the  ice  was  from  ankle  to  knee  deep,  he  returned,  bringing 
to  Conger  the  pemmican,  bacon,  and  compressed  tea — articles  useful  for  future  work.  During 
the  trip  three  musk-oxen,  two  geese,  and  three  hares  were  kiljed.  He  reached  Conger  the 
morning  of  the  15th.  He  found  at  Hillock  depot  only  eighty-four  rations  in  cases.  There 
were  no  signs  of  the  one  hundred  and  twelve  rations  in  bags,  nor  of  the  notice  relative  to  them 
left  by  Lieutenant  Archer,  R.  N. 

Near  the  station  two  musk-cattle  were  killed  on  the  rath  and  seven  on  the  13th;  the  latter 
on  the  very  summit  of  Uie  Sugar  Loaf,  a  very  precipitous  mountain,  eighteen  hundred  feet 
[549™]  high.  Among  this  herd  were  four  musk-calves — two  bulls  and  two  heifers.  They 
were  captured  and  brought  to  the  station,  and  in  a  few  days  were  tame,  tractable,  and  thriving. 
These  calves  were  successfully  raised,  largely  from  the  efforts  of  Privates  Long,  Frederick,  and 
Connell.  It  was  my  intention  to  send  them  to  the  United  States  by  the  relief  vessel  of  1882, 
but  three  of  them  dying  late  in  October  I  found  it  necessary  to  kill  the  fourth. 

The  13th  was  marked  as  being  the  first  day  on  which  the  temperature  had  not  fallen  below 
freezing  (0°  C.)  since  August  17,  ten  months  less  four  days.  Taking  advantage  of  the  spring 
tides  from  the  17th  to  the  19th,  the  launch  Lady  Greely  was  moved  into  a  tidal  crack.  She 
had  remained  safe  and  undisturbed  on  the  inner  ice-foot  since  September. 

On  June  24,  leaving  Lieutenant  Lockwood  in  charge  of  the  home  station,  I  started  on  a 
trip  inland  into  Grinnell  Land,  taking  four  men,  two  of  them  as  a  supporting  party. 

By  the  i8th  all  snow  had  disappeared  from  the  ice  in  the  harbor.  From  the  28th  to  the 
30th  the  straits  showed  large  lanes  of  water,  and  occasionally  fields  of  ice  were  in  motion. 
On  the  30th  a  party — with  difficulty,  and  for  the  last  time  during  the  season — reached  Bellot 
Island  over  the  ice. 

On  June  i  a  purple  saxifrage  {Saxifraga  oppositi/olia\  June  2  a  willow  {Salix  antua\ 
June  5  a  sorrel  {Oxyn'a  tmi/or>nis\  Time  11  a  cochlearia  {Cochlearia  officinalis)^  were  found 
in  flowers.     Other  plants  followed  in  rapid  succession. 

Game  was  more  plentiful  than  in  May.  One  seal  {Phoca  harbata\  eight  hares,  two  ptar- 
raig-  •    two  geese,  twenty  dovekies,  twenty-two  ducks  (eider,  king,  and  long-tailed),  and  four- 


I  i     5 


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TOE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


teen  musk-cattle  were  killed  during  the  month.  Two  dead  wolves— evidently  poisoned  the 
previous  winter — were  found,  (ieese — the  first  sign  of  Arctic  sunnner — were  seen  on  the  3d, 
and  on  the  4th  water  ravines  were  running  freely. 

The  regular  magnetic,  meteorological  observations,  and  tidal  readings  were  continued 
through  the  month. 

Means  from  hourly  observations:  Barometer  29.930  [760.2°"°];  temperature,  33.12°  [0.6° 
C.];  ma.ximum  temperature,  53°  [11.7°  C.];  minimum  temperature,  13.2°  [—10.4°  C.].  The 
maximum  is  the  highest  ever  observed  in  June  by  any  Arctic  expedition  north  of  the  seventieth 
parallel,  while  the  minimum  is  the  lowest  of  any  known  June  in  or  north  of  Smith's  Sound. 
The  mean  is  not  noticeable,  but  is  0.6°  [.3°  C]  higher  than  that  noted  by  H.  M.  S.  Discovery 
in  1876  at  Discovery  Harbor,  Fort  Conger. 

The  harbor-ice  remained  stationary  at  a  thickness  of  fifty-two  inches  [1.321'"]  from  the 
1st  to  the  2ist,  but  afterwards,  with  astonishing  rapidity,  diminished  to  twenty-nine  inches 
[•737'"]  by  J"ly  I. 

The  health  of  the  command  was  excellent  during  the  month.  Sergeant  Rice  sprained 
his  ankle  on  the  25th,  but  recovered  rapidly. 


'i 


:ii 


11 


JULY,  1882. 

At  00''  oo",  Gottingen  time,  July  i,  magnetical  readings  were  commenced,  conformable 
as  far  as  one  instrument  would  permit,  to  the  programme  drawn  up  by  the  Hamburg  Inter- 
national Polar  Conference.     The  readings  made  were  as  follows  : 

Daily  observations  each  hour  for  declination,  five  readings  at  intervals  of  a  minute  being 
made  as  recommended  by  Weyprecht  ;  on  the  ist  and  i5tli  of  the  month  five-minute  readings 
of  declination,  with  twenty-second  readings  for  the  selected  hour;  intensity  obser\'ations  were 
necessarily  made  on  the  2d  and  i6th,  there  being  no  duplicate  instrument. 

The  Kew  dip-circle  furnished,  being  unsuitable  for  use  in  that  locality,  prevented  at  first 
observations  of  that  character,  but  later  it  was  so  arranged  that  one  end  of  the  needle  could  be 
read.  To  avoid  any  niisaiiprehension  in  this  matter  it  seems  best  to  state  that  a  dip-circle  was 
made  esjiecially  for  work  at  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  expedition,  with  transverse  instead  of  upright 
standards.  The  late  Superintendent  of  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  Carlile  P. 
Patterson,  directed  that  this  instrument,  which  Iwd  accidentally  been  sent  to  the  Coast  Survey, 
should  be  sent  me,  but  on  opening  the  instruments  at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  it  was  found 
that  some  error  had  been  made  and  an  unserviceable  instrument  forwarded  in  its  place. 

Hourly  meteorological  readings  from  July  i  included  complete  observations  except  as  to 
humidity  and  rainfall,  which  were  noted  every  fourth  hour,  six  times  daily.  Hourly  tidal 
readings  were  necessarily  discontinued  after  the  end  of  the  first  year,  but  the  time  and  heights 
of  high  and  low  tides  were  regularly  observed  the  second  year. 

The  ice  in  the  harbor  showed  signs  of  breaking  up  on  the  ist,  at  which  time  it  was  but 
twenty-nine  inches  [.  737"']  thick. 

Corporal  Salor  and  Private  Whisler,  supporting  party  to  Lieutenant  Greely,  returned  on 
the  3d.  The  same  day  Sergeants  Elison  and  Private  Long  visited  Lake  Alexandra,  where 
but  little  open  water  was  found. 

The  4tli  of  July  was  celebrated  as  fully  as  circumstances  permitted,  by  the  display  of  flags, 
shooting  matches,  base-ball,  races,  etc. 

On  the  5th,  owing  to  continued  warm  and  wet  weather,  the  musk-cx  meat  killed  that 
summer  commenced  spoiling,  and  over  fifteen  hundred  pounds  had  to  be  fed  to  our  dogs. 

On  the  6th  Private  Biederbick  returned,  having  been  sent  back  from  Very  River  by 
Lieutenant  Greely.  Privates  Long  and  Kllis  were  sent  to  depot  B  for  a  pair  of  small  oars  on 
the  7th,  but  finding  on  the  shore  of  vSt.  Patrick  Bay  a  pair,  which  had  evidently  been  aban- 
doned by  the  English  expedition  of  i875-'76,  returned  with  those. 


If' I 


3      5 


n 
•« 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


31 


On  the  morning  of  the  9th  the  ice  in  the  harbor  commenced  breaking  np.  Steam  was 
got  up  on  the  launch  Lady  Grtily,  and  she  was  run  a  short  distance  in  the  harbor.  ( )n  the 
loth  slie  was  run  twice  to  Dutch  Island. 

Lieutenant  (ireely  and  Sergeant  Linn  returned  in  the  midst  of  a  snow-storm  from  the 
trip  into  the  interior  of  Grinncll  Land  the  afternoon  of  the  loth. 

The  general  outlines  of  my  journey  were  as  follows  : 

Left  Fort  Conger  June  26  with  four  men,  an  improvised  cart  being  our  means  of  trans- 
portation. Traveling  on  ice  to  the  southwest  part  of  Discovery  Harbor,  I  followed  up  the 
Black  Rock  Vale,  and,  striking  across  the  country,  made  camp  No.  3  on  Lake  Appleby,  in 
sight  of  and  about  eight  miles  from  Lake  Hazen,  latitude  81°  55'  N.,  longitude  68°  06'  W., 
magnetic  variation  (observed)  103°  30'.  This,  with  Lake  Rogers  and  others,  forms  a  chain 
which  drains  a  considerable  section  of  the  country  inland  to  Lake  Hazen.  Lake  Rogers  has 
the  greatest  elevation,  about  eighteen  hundred  feet  [549"'].  This  lake  although  only  about 
two  miles  distant  from  Lake  Appleby,  is  about  five  hundred  feet  [153"']  above  it.  In  one  lake 
several  fish,  over  an  inch  long,  were  caught,  and  on  its  shores  a  piece  of  lignite  coal  was  found. 

Striking  Lake  Hazen,  the  party  traveled  about  fifteen  miles  westward  to  the  junction  of 
a  river,  by  which  the  lake  discharges  into  Hall  Basin,  via  Chandler  Fiord  and  Lady  Franklin 
Bay.     Over  the  frozen  surface  of  this  river  Lake  Hazen  had  been  reached  the  previous  spring. 

At  two  points  on  the  lake,  east  of  the  river,  Eskimo  relics  were  found,  indicating  at  least 
summer  encampments,  but  at  the  junction  of  the  river  and  Lake  Hazen,  on  both  sides  of  the 
stream,  were  found  the  remains  of  habitations  which  evidently  in  previous  ages  had  been 
permanently  occupied.  A  wooden  sledge  (nearly  complete)  shod  with  bone,  parts  of  hunting- 
gear,  portions  of  dog-harne.ss,  skinning-knife  with  iron  blade,  combs  (two  ornamented)  com- 
prise the  major  part  of  the  list  of  articles  found.  Narwhal  and  walrus  ivory,  porous  bones  of 
the  whale,  and  wood  were  the  principal  substances.  Bones  of  the  musk-ox,  wolf,  fox,  and 
hare  in  abundance,  a  piece  of  reindeer  horn,  and  the  bone  of  a  lish  were  found. 

Quite  a  collection  of  reindeer  horns  was  made  from  various  poir'^'  along  the  shores  ot 
the  lake  and  adjacent  valleys.  From  this  place  my  supporting  party  ^^Corporal  Salor  and 
Private  Whisler)  turned  back,  leaving  me  yet  Sergeant  Linn  u  'i  Private  Biederbick.  About 
twenty  miles  farther  the  wagon,  before  frequently  disabled,  broke  ^^(Avn  completely.  The 
tent,  and  everything  not  indispensable,  were  abandoned,  and  we  started  on  ;  the  men  carrying 
on  an  average  seventy  pounds,  and  I  thirty-one  and  occasionally  seventy  pounds. 

Two  marches  brought  us  to  camp  No.  8,  Very  River,  on  July  i.  Private  Biederbick, 
who  had  overtaxed  his  strength  in  his  zeal,  here  showed  signs  of  sickness  from  overwork,  and, 
though  willing  to  proceed,  I  deemed  it  best  for  him  to  return  to  Fort  Conger.  It  was  a 
doubtful  question  whether  I  should  send  him  back  alone  a  distance  of  one  htnidred  and 
twenty-five  miles;  but  to  have  decided  otherwise  would  have  entailed  the  entire  abandonment 
of  the  jouniey.  On  Biederbick's  pressing  representations  that  he  could  make  the  journey 
safely  I  finally  decided  to  send  him,  directing  him  to  stop  at  one  of  onr  caches  in  case  he  grew 
worse.  He  reached  Fort  Conger  safely  July  6.  In  consequence  of  Biederbick's  return  a  por- 
tion of  our  provisions  was  necessarily  cached.  On  leaving  camp  No.  8,  Sergeant  Linn  carried 
sixty-four  pounds  and  I  forty-seven  pounds  besides  my  sextant. 

Following  the  southeastern  side  of  Very  River,  which  stream  was  nowhere  fordable,  the 
eleventh  camp  was  made  in  latitude  81°  21'  N.,  longitude  74°  04'  W.,  magnetic  variation 
(observed)  1 14°  W.  Just  before  making  this  camp  snow  was  met  with  for  the  first  time. 
Starting  the  next  day.  July  4,  but  finding  the  country  covered  with  from  one  to  three  feet  of 
snow,  underlain  with  water,  a  few  hours  convinced  me  that  much  farther  progress  was  im- 
practicable. Our  boots,  too,  were  nearly  worn  out  by  the  rough  traveling.  To  settle  the 
question,  I  decided  dropping  everything  but  the  glasses  and  compasses,  and  to  climb  a  high 
mountain  about  four  miles  distant     We  started  at  9  a.  m.  for  the  mountain,  and  at  i  p.  m., 


32 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


after  most  stretmous  exertions,  I  reached  the  summit  in  a  thoroughly  exhausted  condition. 
Sergeant  Linn,  owing  to  a  lame  knee,  had  been  unable  to  proceed  farther  than  the  base  of 
Mount  Linn,  an  adjoining  mountain  of  much  less  prominence.  The  elevation  of  the  mountain 
ascended  by  me  was  forty-five  hundred  feet  [1,372"'],  seven  hundred  feet  [213'"]  higher  than 
any  other  knoivn  peak  in  Grinnell  Land.  I  have  named  it  Mount  C.  A.  Arthur.  From  its 
summit  all  Grinnell  Land  seemed  stretched  out  bd'ore  me.  Fortunately,  after  four  days  of 
clouds  and  rain,  the  weather  was  clear  and  the  atmosphere  in  a  state  of  visibility.  Except  a 
narrow  pencil  of  clouds  to  the  southward,  which  veiled  the  immediate  land  in  that  direction, 
while  disclosing  the  summits  of  certain  snow-clad  peaks,  scarcely  a  cloud  was  visible.  No 
mountain  beyond  Mount  Augur,  the  most  westerly  of  the  Garfield  range,  had  before  been 
seen.  To  my  surprise,  a  second  range  (Conger  Mountains),  partly  snow-clad,  extended  west- 
ward about  fifty  miles,  and  appeared  thence  to  gradually  trend  northward.  These  mountains 
were  separated  from  the  Garfield  range  by  a  valley  of  considerable  width.  Between  Conger 
Mountains  and  the  United  States  Mountains  (I  comprise  under  the  latter  name  all  mountains 
entirely  snow-clad)  there  was  a  valley  which  apparently  widened  to  the  westward.  This  valley 
appeared  to  drain  into  Lake  Hazen  by  the  break  between  the  two  moimtain  ranges,  some  eight 
or  ten  miles  west  of  Lake  Hazert.     No  glacier  could  be  seen  in  that  direction. 

North  of  the  Garfield  range  there  was  a  valley  visible  north  of  Mount  Augur  [Mount 
Biederbick],  but  it  soon  closed  to  the  eastward,  and  the  range  appeared  to  crowd  closely  against 
the  Snowy  range.  The  United  States  Mountains  covered  the  noithern  horizon  fr  ,i\\  about 
northeast  (true)  to  northwest,  an  immense  area  of  mountains,  entirely  ice-clad,  about  sixty 
miles  by  twenty.  Their  northe-n  limit  as  seen  could  not  average  much  less  than  sixty  miles, 
as  beyond  Henrietta  Nesmith  Glacier,  which  was  over  forty  miles  distant,  the  range  could  be 
seen  for  twenty  miles  at  least.  These  mountains  resemble  rather  snow-clad,  gently  rounded 
hills,  tl'.'^re  being  no  dist'nct  range,  but  merely  a  confused  mass  of  mountains  beyond  mount- 
ains. They  must  have  been  of  lower  ele\'ation  than  Mount  Arthur.  From  west-southwest 
(true)  to  southwest  a  slight  depression  of  Hie  intervening  bare  hills  disclosed  a  range  of  mount- 
ains, partly  snow-clad,  which  could  not  possibly  have  been  nearer  than  seventy-five  miles.  I 
thought  it  probable  they  were  farther  distant,  and  that  they  vere  situated  not  in  Grinnell 
Land  but  on  an  island  or  land  westward.  Lieutenant  Lockwoot's  discoveries  in  the  follow- 
ing year  leaves  no  doubt  that  the  mountains  seen  were  those  to  the  south  and  westward  of 
Greely  Fiord,  possibly  including  the  high  land  seen  by  him  on  Arthur  Land. 

From  northwest  to  southwest,  within  a  radius  of  seventy  miles,  could  be  seen  nothing  but 
low  hills,  entirely  free  from  snow  (except  within  ten  or  fifteen  miles  of  Mount  Arthur),  which 
were  intersected  with  numerous  ravines.  Their  appearance  was  identical  with  that  presented 
by  .  ,e  parts  of  country  traveled  over  from  Lake  Hazcn.  Due  south  was  a  prominent  mountain 
peak,  and  southeast  a  second  mountain,  probably  a  peak  of  the  Victoria  and  Albert  Mountains, 
and  nearly  east  what  I  took  to  be  Mount  Neville,  with  a  peak  just  north  of  it.  Intennediate 
between  Mount  Arthur,  Lake  Hazen,  Chandler  and  Archer  Fiords,  only  low  hills,  /.  ^.,  from 
fifteen  hundred  to  twenty-fivc  hundred  or  three  thousand  feet,  457  to  76c  or  914  meters  (which 
were  all  bare,  a  patch  of  snow  being  exceptional),  were  visible.  The  summit  of  Mount  Arthur 
was  an  expanse  of  level  snow,  half  a  mile  in  diameter.  Trying  the  compass  on  the  s'low  io 
obtain  bearings,  I  found  eve.y  mountain  disnppcar  from  view,  and  standing  I  was  unable  to 
obtain  any  satisfactory  readings      All  bearings  were  determined  approximately  from  tlie  sun. 

My  stay  on  the  summit:  of  Mount  Arthur  did  not  exceed  twenty  minutes,  as  I  feared 
perishing,  owing  to  my  exhausted  condition,  the  prevalence  of  a  strong,  cold  north  wind,  and 
the  absence  of  any  sensation  in  my  feet. 

Rejoining  Sergeant  Linn,  a  small  cairn  was  erected  at  the  base  of  Mount  Linn,  in  which 
a  record  was  placed.  Swollen  ice-cold  rivers  to  be  forded  and  no  sun  to  dry  our  clothing,  was 
the  story  of  the  return.     F'or  five  days  we  were  without  dry  clothing,  and  were  obliged  to 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXrEDITION. 


33 


get  'jtich  rest  as  was  possible  from  a  blanket  of  single  thickness,  on  moist  gronnd,  with  ice 
freqnently  forming  around  ns. 

In  crossing  the  deep  river  in  Black  Rock  Vale  Sergeant  Linn  was  carried  off  his  feet  by 
the  current  and  escaped  only  by  swimming.  I  was  soaked  to  my  breast  in  crossing,  and  only 
saved  note-book  and  chronometer  by  holding  them  above  my  head.  We  nearly  perished  with 
cold  after  this  bath  while  traveling  to  the  depot  on  the  southwest  shore  of  Discovery  Harbor, 
three  miles  or  more  distant.  The  temperature  was  less  than  two  degrees  [i.i°  C]  above  the 
freezing-point  [o°  C],  and  a  high  wind  blowing,  which  rendered  progress  difficult  and  be- 
numbed us  with  its  cold. 

Some  difficulty  was  experienced  the  next  day  in  crossing  Discovery  Harbor  to  Fort 
Conger,  the  ice  having  partly  broken  up.  At  times  it  was  necessary  to  wade  waist  deep 
through  channels  and  brooks  which  covered  the  surface  of  the  floe. 

The  important  result  of  the  journey  was  the  discovery  of  the  main  topographical  features 
of  Grinnell  Land.  The  existence  of  an  interior  lake  of  such  dimensions  as  Lake  Hazen  (which 
covers  probably  three  hundred  square  miles),  shows  with  what  rapidity  the  numerous  ravines 
must  drain  the  country,  and  explains  why  the  entire  country  is  not  ice-capped.  Glaciers  were 
seen  only  where  the  Garfield  range  pressed  closely  against  the  United  States  Mountains,  evi- 
dently offshoots  of  the  enormous  ice-cap  which  covers  the  northern  moiMitains. 

The  vegetation  of  Very  Valley  was  remarkable  for  its  amount.  At  least  a  hundred  musk- 
oxen  were  .seen  in  it,  and  on  adjacent  hills.  That  valley,  for  some  miles  up,  was  several  miles 
wide  and  resembled  many  which  I  have  seen  in  our  territories.  The  valleys  of  the  tributary 
rivers  seemed  to  closely  resembk  the  main  valley.  It  was  a  matter  of  regret  that  none  of  them 
could  be  reached.  Very  River  not  being  then  fordable.  This  river  in  the  lower  valley  was 
half  a  mile  wide,  with  a  moderate  current;  in  the  upper  valley  though  rarely  over  one-eighth  of 
a  mile  wide,  it  ran  with  great  rapidity.  Vegetation  was  also  luxuriant  on  the  hills  and  in 
the  valleys  bordering  Lake  Hazen,  though  occasionally  barren  hills  were  found.  The  vege- 
tation at  Discovery  Harbor,  though  luxuriant,  seemed  somewhat  scanty  after  my  return, 
suffering  from  comparison  with  that  of  the  inland  country. 

Near  camp  I,  on  Lake  Heintzelman,  were  found,  about  thirty  feet  [9'"]  above  the  lake,  the 
trunks  of  two  large  coniferous  (pine?)  trees,  partly  embedded  in  the  hill-side.  One  was  with 
difficulty  dug  out,  and  proved  to  be  ten  feet  [3-048"'j  long  and  sixteen  inches  [.406'"]  in 
diameter  ;  there  were  yet  attached  the  remains  of  two  large  branches.  Although  partly  de- 
composed, it  served  fairly  as  fuel.  The  second  was  too  deeply  covered  to  permit  its  removal. 
The  portion  seen  was  si.x  feet  [1.829"']  long  and  twelve  inches  [.305'"]  in  diameter.  These 
trees  were  more  than  two  hundred  feet  [61'"]  above  and  nearly  seven  miles  distant  from  tide- 
water. The  presence  of  trees  and  small  shells,  which  to  that  point  were  common,  shows  con- 
clusively that  the  interior  valley  had  been  at  no  distant  day  washed  by  the  sea. 

The  energy  and  endurance  of  Private  Henry  Hiedcrbick,  and  uspecially  of  Sergeant  David 
Linn,  insured  the  marked  success  of  this  inland  journey.  Sergeant  Linn  traveled  for  the  last 
four  marches  outward  with  an  injured  knee,  and  when  he  reached  the  home  station  his  ankles 
were  so  injured  from  rough  travel  that  they  were  over  a  month  healing.  The  exceedingly 
rough  and  trying  conditions  of  this  overland  travel  were  such  as  to  completely  wear  out  all 
our  boots,  although  they  were  new  at  starting. 

From  the  western  part  of  Lake  Hazen  to  Discover)'  Harbor,  over  fifty  miles  of  very  rough 
country,  Scrgea.  t  Linn  and  I  carried  on  our  backs,  in  addition  to  our  camp  outfits,  about  fifty 
pounds  of  Eskimo  bone  implements.  T'  ese  relics,  associated  with  the  farthest  wanderings  in 
the  past  ages  of  the  most  northerly  people  of  the  world,  were  necessaril)'  abandoned  at  Fort 
Conger,  but  photographs  of  them  were  saved  and  a  ;.  herewith  reproduced. 

The  farthest  reached,  the  summit  of  Mount  Ardiur  (elevation  4,500  feet)  [1,372'"],  was  in 
latitude  81°  14'  N.,  longitude  74°  W.,  and  to  reach  that  point  at  least  175   miles  outward 
travel  from  Fort  Conger  was  necessary. 
H.  Mis.  393 A 


n 

il 

U 

fl 


34 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  magnetic  variation  observed  at  the  farthest  camp,  about  seven  miles  north-northeast 
(true)  of  Moiait  Chester  A.  Arthur,  was  114"  W.  At  the  mouth  of  Cobb  River  (a  temporary 
name  given  to  the  small  river  directly  south  of  Henrietta  Nesmith  Glacier)  on  the  south  side 
of  L,ake  Hazen,  the  variation  observed  was  108°  W. 

On  July  20,  in  accordance  witli  his  request,  the  renewed  contract  of  Dr.  Pavy,  as  acting 
assistant  surgeon  of  the  expedition,  contained  a  clause  giving  him  transportation,  on  fi.  al  dis- 
charge, to  Saint  Louis,  Mo.  The  new  contract  was  for  at  least  one  year,  and  its  terms  were 
identical  with  the  original  contract.  The  oath  of  service  was  formally  administered  by  me 
to  Dr.  Pavy  on  that  day. 

Thin  ice  formed  on  pools  near  the  station  early  in  the  morning  and  late  in  the  evening  of 
the  12th.     From  the  13th  to  the  15th  0.76  inch  [19"""]  rain  fell. 

Sergeants  Brainard  and  Cross  reached  Bellot  Island  by  boat  on  the  17th.  On  the  22d  Pri- 
vate Ellis  reported  seeing  a  walrus  off  Distant  Cape.  If  a  walrus  was  seen,  it  I'lust  be  con- 
sidered as  a  certain  indication  that  the  straits  below  to  Kane  Sea  were  unusually  free  from 
ice,  a  condition  which,  without  much  doubt,  existed. 

Sergeant  Brainard  and  party  started  on  a  hunting  trip  to  Cape  Beechey  on  the  23d,  and 
returned  on  the  27th.  They  killed  eight  musk-cattle,  twenty-two  geese,  and  two  goslings. 
Privates  Henry  and  Whisler,  absent  at  the  same  time  at  the  entrance  of  Black  Rock  Vale  fur 
Eskimo  relics  cached  there,  killed  a  hare  and  two  musk-cattle.  Game  near  the  station  was 
found  in  fair  quantities.  One  hare,  nine  ducks,  twenty-four  geese,  and  ten  musk-cattle  were 
killed.  Not  \ncluded  as  game,  may  be  mentioned  four  ermines  killed  and  thirteen  young 
owls  captured.     Two  foxes  were  wounded  but  none  secured. 

Additional  Eskimo  remains  were  found  near  the  station  on  various  dates. 

The  ice  in  the  straits  naturally  varied  with  every  tide.  From  July  16  there  had  been 
but  a  few  days  on  which  a  vessel  reaching  the  southern  entrance  of  Kennedy  Channel  could 
not  have  rounded  Cape  Lieber  and  entered  Discovery  Harbor.  On  the  28th  a  heavy  gale  was 
experienced.  During  its  continuance  (but  not  at  its  height  as  indicated  at  the  station)  the 
wind  on  Cairn  Hill  blew  at  a  velocity  of  forty-eight  miles  per  hour  [21.5™]  per  second. 

Magnetical,  meteorological,  and  tidal  observations  were  regularly  made. 

Means  (from  hourly  observations) :  Barometer,  29.714  [754-7"'"];  temperature,  36.82° 
[2.7°  C.];  maximum  temperature,  53°  [11.7°  C.];  minimum,  29°  [ — 1.7°  C.].  While  the  mean 
temperature  is  0.4°  [.2°  C]  lower  than  any  recorded  by  any  expedition  in  or  north  of  Smith 
Sound,  the  extremes  agree  closely  with  others  in  that  latitude. 

The  health  of  the  command  continued  excellent.  The  garden,  I  regret  to  say,  proved  a 
total  failure  despite  all  care. 


AUGUST,  1882. 

Preparations  were  made  in  the  first  days  of  the  month  for  the  arrival  of  the  expected 
relief  steamer.  I'roperty  returns  were  brought  up  to  date,  and  copies  made  of  all  ob-ervations 
taken  during  the  preceding  year. 

During  the  first  few  days  the  ice  broke  up  rapidh-,  and  on  the  4th  I  was  able  to  send  Ser- 
geant Brainard  and  a  party  with  the  whale-boat  i  the  southwest  point  of  Discovery  Harbor, 
to  bring  in  the  musk-cattle  which  had  been  killed  there. 

By  the  7th  Hall  Basin  was  so  free  from  ice  that  I  decided  to  visit  Cape  Cracroft  in  the 
laimch,  with  the  hopes  of  seeing  a  steamer  to  the  south.  That  point  was  reached  without 
difficulty,  and  from  an  elevation  of  over  two  hundred  feet  [61™]  a  fine  view  was  had  to  the 
southward.  The  eastern  half  of  Franklin  Island  could  be  plainly  seen,  and  no  ice  was  visible 
to  the  southward  except  very  rare  floc-bcrgs  of  small  dimensions.  The  sky  to  the  southward  of 
Franklin  Island  was  carefully  examined  with  glasses,  and  was  free  from  any  signs  of  an  ice 


IL 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION 


35 


^*? 


blink.  Kennedy  Channel  was  in  effect  freer  from  ice  than  we  had  found  it  in  1881.  While 
examining  the  ice  to  the  southward,  Sergeant  Gardiner  discovered  fossils  to  be  very  abundant 
in  the  rocks  and  a  fine  collection  was  made. 

No  signs  of  a  vessel  aijpearing,  on  August  12  I  ordered  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  visit  the 
head  of  Archer  Fiord  with  the  launch,  and  he  left  on  the  following  day.  His  orders  required 
him  not  to  be  absent  exceeding  seventy-two  hours,  and  during  that  time  he  was  to  acquire 
such  knowledge  as  would  be  valuable  in  connection  with  the  proposed  crossing  of  Grinnell 
Land.  He  left  on  the  13th  and  returned  the  i6th.  His  report  of  the  trip  forms  Appendix 
No.  56.  During  his  absence  he  killed  twelve  musk-o.xen,  three  hares,  and  about  sixty  birds, 
which  supply  of  fresh  meat  contributed  materially  to  our  health  during  the  second  winter. 
Tventy-eight  other  musk-cattle  were  seen  on  the  south  side  of  the  fiord  but  the  launch  being 
short  of  coal  Lieutenant  Lockwood  did  not  delay  for  them. 

On  the  19th,  having  but  faint  hopes  of  a  vessel.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  ordered  into 
Chandler  Fiord  to  make  a  survey,  and  Dr.  Pavy  at  the  same  time  was  ordered  to  examine 
Daly  Peninsula  for  an  overland  route  from  Cape  Baird  southward  to  Cape  Defosses  or  Carl 
Ritter  Bay.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  left  on  the  30th,  but  being  unable  to  cross  Archer  Fiord 
to  land  Dr.  Pavy  at  Cape  Baird,  was  obliged  to  return,  but  left  the  following  day,  landing 
Dr.  Pavy  at  Cape  Baird  and  proceeding  to  Chandler  Fiord,  whence  he  returned  on  the  23d. 
He  was  unable  to  reach  the  extreme  end  of  Chandler  Fiord  owing  to  the  large  amount  of 
heavy  ice  )'et  in  it.  He  succeeded,  however,  in  surveying  the  eastern  half  of  the  fiord,  and 
Sergeant  Rice  obtained  two  excellent  photographs,  showing  the  fiord  to  the  eastward  and  to 
the  westward.     Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  forms  Appendix  No.  57. 

Sergeant  Brainard  was  ordered,  with  five  men,  on  August  25,  to  bring  the  whale-boat  from 
Cape  Beechey,  where  she  had  been  cached  the  preceding  year.  The  party  returned  with  the 
boat  on  the  27th,  just  after  Lieutenant  Lockwood  had  left  in  the  steam  launch  for  Cape  Baird 
to  bring  back  Dr.  Pavy  and  Sergeant  Ellison. 

Dr.  Pavy  found  that  the  valley  near  Cape  Baird  extends  to  the  ' '  divide' '  at  a  point  about 
five  miles  from  Cape  Defosses,  from  which  point  another  broad  wide  valley  of  easy  grade  descends 
to  Kennedy  Channel.  The  valley  near  Baird  was  filled  with  a  river  which  I  named  Pavy  River. 
The  river  at  four  points  enlarges  into  lakes  of  moderate  size.  From  an  elevation  of  seven  hun- 
dred feet  [213'"]  at  Cape  Defosses,  no  ice  could  be  .seen  in  Kennedy  Channel,  or  as  far  south 
as  the  eye  could  reach,  a  distance  of  about  thirty-five  miles.  The  farthest  point  reached  was 
our  depot  in  Carl  Ritter  Bay.  No  written  report  of  this  trip  was  made  by  Dr.  Pavy,  but  a 
report  from  Sergeant  Ellison  forms  Appendix  No.  59  and  Dr.  Pavy's  orders.  No.  58. 

On  August  28  I  gave  up  all  hopes  of  the  ship,  and  ordered  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  pro- 
ceed with  the  launch  to  the  head  of  Archer  Fiord  for  exploration,  and  to  leave  the  ■whale-boat 
with  a  depot  at  Cape  Lieber,  en  route.  A  southerly  gale  with  snow  prevented  his  koving  on 
the  29th,  and  the  large  amount  of  ice  which  filled  the  straits  on  the  succeeding  day  decided 
me  to  countennand  his  orders.  On  the  31st  the  harbor  was  filled  with  pack-ice,  and  as  young 
ice  had  commenced  forming  slowly,  I  decided  to  lay  up  the  launch  at  Dutch  Island. 

The  party  was  very  successful  in  obtaining  game  during  August.  Thirty-three  musk- 
cattle  were  killed,  twelve  of  which  had  been  obtanied  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  in  Archer 
Fiord,  as  already  stated,  and  eight  killed  by  Sergeant  Long  in  St.  Patrick  Valley.  Eleven 
hares,  two  fiord  seals,  thirty-seven  ducks,  thirty-two  ptarmigan,  thirteen  dovekies,  and  about 
seventy-five  smaller  edible  birds  were  also  obtained. 

The  mean  temperature,  35.3°  [1.8°  C],  was  unusually  high  for  an  Arctic  station,  and 
remarkably  so  considering  the  latitude  of  Fort  Conger.  An  unusually  high  maximum,  47.8° 
[8.8°  C],  was  recorded  on  the  21st,  and  a  mininunn  of  22.8°  [ — 5.1°  C]  on  the  3i3t.  The 
temperature  fell  permanently  below  32°  [0°  C]  on  the  morning  of  the  29th,  one  day  earlier 
than  the  preceding  year.  Observations  were  continued  during  the  month  with  the  customary 
regularity. 


36 


TUK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


. 


SEPTEMBER,  1882. 

On  September  i  it  became  necessary,  in  view  of  the  non-arrival  of  a  relief  ship,  toarranpje 
for  a  second  winter  in  accordance  with  e.\isting  supplies.  Vegetables,  milk,  sugar,  and  flour 
had  been  previously  used  at  pleasure  and  without  limit.  To  insure  equitable  distribution 
through  the  coming  year  the  following  weekly  allowance  was  necessary  :  Vegetables,  forty-two 
ounces;  milk,  nine  ounces;  sugar,  twenty  ounces;  flour, cornmeal,  etc.,  forty-seven  ounces. 
Bread,  salt  meats,  molasses,  apples,  and  other  fruits  in  natural  juice,  butter,  pickles,  preserves, 
jellies,  and  many  other  articles  remained  in  sufficient  quantities  to  render  their  limitation  for 
the  second  year  unnecessary. 

On  September  r  we  camenear  losing  our  launch  owing  to  its  having  been  anchored  in  an 
insecure  position  near  Dutch  Island.  I  fortunately  visited  her  early  that  morning,  to  inspect 
her  condition,  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  assistance  in  time  to  save  her;  however,  some  small 
stores  were  spoiled  through  her  partly  filling  with  water. 

On  the  2d  I  commenced  sjstematic  work  ;  arranging  my  reports  and  obser\'ai"ons  in  such 
a  manner  that  complete  records  could  be  easily  transported  in  case  a  boa.  ;.,.irney  in  1883 
should  be  necessary.  This  work  was  continued  unremittingly  until  August  5,  1883,  and 
thereby  the  complete  scientific  observations  were  reduced  to  such  condition  that  they  were 
ultimately  brought  in  safety  to  the  United  States. 

On  the  3d  the  sun  set  for  the  first  time,  and  on  the  ensuing  day  preparations  were  made 
fbr  winter  by  replacing  the  inside  windows. 

The  launch  was  secured  fov  the  winter  during  the  spring  tide  of  the  17th.  On  this  day 
Sergeant  Israel  while  skating  broke  through  the  ice  and  came  near  drowning.  He  was 
rescued  with  some  difliculty,  suffering,  however,  no  harm  from  his  immersion. 

Lieutenant  Lock' 'jod  on  the  24th  was  sent,  at  his  own  request,  up  Black  Rock  Vale  with 
dog-sledge,  to  ascertain  whether  autumn  travel  was  possible  inland.  He  returned  on  the  27tli, 
bringing  a  musk-ox  killed  by  Christiansen  some  three  miles  above  Lake  Heintzelman.  That 
lake  was  found  covered  with  clear  smooth  ice  already  a  foot  [.  305"']  thick.  The  trip  showed 
the  general  impracticability  of  sledging  to  Lake  Hazen  overland. 

During  the  month  one  musk-ox,  two  hares,  three  seals,  and  three  ptannigans  were  killed 
and  two  foxes  captured.  By  the  early  part  of  the  month  all  birds  had  departed,  except  our 
regular  habitant,  the  ptarmigan,  and  an  occasional  owl  or  raven.  The  station  was  visited  on 
September  30  by  a  bear,  which  was  not  seen,  iK^wever. 

The  mean  temperature  was  18.1°  [ — y.y°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  27.4°  [ — 2.6°  C]  on 
the  5th,  and  a  minimum  of  o°.7  [ — 17.4°  C]  on  the  21st.  The  minimum  occurred  on  the 
same  day  on  which  the  temperature  fell  below  zero  [ — 17.8°  C]  in  1881.  The  early  part  of 
the  month  was  unusually  warm,  the  first  eight  days  being  three  degrees  [1.7°  C]  warmer 
than  for  the  corresponding  period  in  1881. 

A  great  deal  of  open  water  was  seen  in  and  around  the  harbor  and  in  Robeson  Channel 
until  aftt  r  the  20th. 

OCTOBER,  1882. 

On  October  2  Sergeant  Linn  was  reduced  to  the  grade  of  private  for  disrespectful  lan- 
guage. Save  this  indiscretion.  Sergeant  Linn's  conduct  was  irreproachable  during  his  entire 
service,  and  a  year  later  I  reappointed  him  sergeant. 

On  the  2d  a  bear  was  seen,  which  had  several  times  visited  the  station,  but  escaped 
although  pursued.  In  coiniectiou  with  his  appearance,  restrictions  were  for  the  first  time 
placed  on  the  men's  movements,  and  for  absences  for  greater  distances  than  a  third  of  a  mile 


TUK  LADY  PKANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


37 


verbal  authority  was  required.  No  other  bear  appearing,  the  limits  were  increased  to  two 
miles  late  in  January,  the  sergeant  on  duty,  however,  to  be  notified  when  going  further  than 
three-quarters  of  a  mile. 

The  temperature  was  observed  below  zero  [ — 17.8°  C]  on  the  4th,  for  the  first  time  that 
autumn.  Auroras  were  frequently  noted  during  the  month.  The  sun  left  us  on  the  i6th 
and  darkness  increased  so  rapidly  that  Jupiter  was  visible  at  local  noon  of  the  24th,  and  four 
first-magnitude  stars  on  the  28th. 

In  view  of  the  evident  inclination  on  the  part  of  many  of  the  men  to  keep  their  beds 
excessive  hours,  an  order  was  issued  forbidding  the  use  of  the  beds  on  week  days  between  8 
a.  m.  and  3  p.  m. ,  except  in  special  cases. 

As  soon  as  the  ice  around  Distant  Cape  would  bear,  which  was  the  i.ith  of  October, 
parties  visited  Cape  Beechey  and  St.  Patrick  Valley  to  bring  in  the  musk-meat  cached  at 
those  points.  Unfortunately  an  entire  ox  had  been  eaten  at  Cape  Beechey,  probably  by  bears 
and  foxes  ;  and  fully  half  of  the  meat  in  St.  Patrick  Bay  had  been  devoured  by  foxes,  which 
had  effected  an  entrance  into  the  stone  huts  which  had  been  built  to  protect  it. 

The  firstoccultat]  k:  obtained  was  observed  on  the  24th.  It  was  theoccultationof  (y/V>f/«w/. 
The  immersion  took  place  at  S"*  27™  29.9',  by  chronometer  (Bond  &  Son's)  No.  198,  which  was 
fast  of  local  sidereal  time  4''  32"  24.7'. 

On  the  26th  systematic  observations  were  commenced  of  the  temperature  of  the  surface 
sea- water,  with  a  view  to  ascertaining  whether  the  temperature  of  the  flowing  tide  varied  from 
that  of  the  ebbing  tide. 

The  health  of  the  party  continued  excellent,  and  at  the  end  of  October  but  two  men  were 
taking  medicine — one  for  a  slight  attack  of  indigestion,  and  the  other,  iron  for  his  blood. 

I  inaugurated  a  series  of  lectures  for  the  winter,  and  was  assured  co-operation  from  Dr. 
Pavy  and  Sergeant  Israel,  my  astronomer. 

On  October  22  Dr.  Pavy,  at  his  expressed  desire,  was  ordered  to  proceed  as  far  southward 
as  practicable  along  theGrinnell  Land  coast  to  look  for  caches  or  any  signs  of  a  visiting  vessel. 
He  was  accompanied  by  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Eskimo  Jens. 

The  harbor-ice  increased  a  foot  [305'"'"]  in  thickness  during  the  month  and  was  23^ 
inches  [59711111]  thick  on  November  i.  The  fresh-water  ice  on  Lake  Alexandra,  however,  had 
attained  a  t?  ickness  of  thirty  inches  [762™'"]  by  the  25th. 

No  game  was  killed  during  the  month,  though  a  ptarmigan  and  an  owl  were  seen  on  the 
I2th.  The  bear  on  the  2d  was  the  only  one  seen  at  Conger,  although  tracks  were  noted 
occasionally  on  the  shores  of  Robeson  Channel.  Three  of  the  musk-calves,  kept  with  great 
trouble  by  us,  died  during  the  month,  and  a  fourth  one  was  killed.  The  cause  of  their  death 
was  attributed  by  me  to  lack  of  exercise,  caused  by  their  being  necessarily  penned  up  the 
greater  part  of  the  time  to  protect  them  from  the  dogs. 

A  .series  of  observations  on  the  velocity  of  sound  at  low  temperatures  was  commenced 
during  October,  and  continued  during  the  entire  winter.  Observations  and  results  form 
Appendix  No.  137. 

On  October  15  observations  of  high  and  low  waters  were  commenced  on  fixed  tide-gauge 
No.  6,  which  was  located  for  winter  observations. 

The  mean  temperature  for  the  mouth  was  — 7.8°  [ — 22.1°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  14° 
[ — 10°  C]  on  the  ist,  and  a  minimuiu  of  — 23.5°  [ — 30.8°  C]  on  the  19th.  The  temper- 
ature fell  permanently  below  zero  [ —  17.8°  C]  on  the  i^th;  sixteen  days  earlier  than  in  the 
preceding  year.  The  month  v.as  e  <treinely  cold,  lower  means  having  been  noted  only  on 
two  other  expeditions;  one  of  which  was  at  the  same  station  in  1875. 


88 


THE  LADY  FEANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


NOVEMBER,  1882. 


On  the  ist  a  meteor  of  a  blue  color  was  observed  about  10.40  p.  m.  A  heavy  detonation 
was  heard  upon  its  disappearance.  At  i  a.  m.  November  14  a  remarkable  meteor  was  noted, 
which  must  have  been  visible  at  least  five  minutes.  A  list  of  meteors  observed  during  the 
two  years  at  Fort  Conger  fonns  Appendix  No.  138a. 

On  the  5th,  Dr.  Pavy  and  his  party  returned.  They  had  gone  as  far  as  Carl  Ritter  Bay, 
traveling  overland  from  Cape  Baird  to  Cape  Defosses,  thence  along  the  coast.  Heavy  ice 
was  found  in  motion  in  Kennedy  Channel ;  and  south  of  Carl  Ritter  Bay  water-clouds  were 
visible  for  some  distance,  and  to  the  south  there  was  an  ice  blink.  A  musk-ox  was  killed  by 
Sergeant  Brainard  on  the  ist  near  Cape  Defosses.  This  was  the  only  game  procured  during 
the  month  except  a  fox,  and  harbor-seal  of  twenty-eight  pounds  (which  was  killed  in  the 
tide-hole),  although  a  number  of  hares  were  seen.  A  detailed  report  of  this  trip  by  Sergeant 
Brainard  fonns  Appendix  No.  60.     No  written  report  was  made  by  Dr.  Pavy. 

Auroras  were  frequently  noted  during  the  month.  The  most  remarkable  displays  occurred 
from  the  nth  to  the  18th,  attended  between  these  dates  with  heavy  magnetic  disturbances. 

On  the  24th  the  light  of  the  full  moon  was  determined  at  9  p.  m. ,  by  a  grease-spot  pho- 
tometer, and  found  equal  to  the  light  of  an  adamantine  star-candle  at  a  distance  of  49^ 
inches  [1.257'"].  -^^  10  p.  m.  the  thermometers  in  the  inner  instrument-shelter  were  read  by 
moonlight,  and  diamond  type  was  read  with  ease.  My  astronomer's  opinion  agreed  with  my 
own,  that  such  clear  light  had  never  been  noted  by  either  of  us  in  lower  latitudes. 

November  30  was  designated  by  orders  (Appendix  No.  61)  as  Thanksgiving  day,  and 
was  celebrated  as  elaborately  as  our  means  would  pennit. 

During  the  magnetic  storm  of  November  17  five-minute  readings  were  continued  until 
9  p.  m.  (Washington  mean  time)  November  18.  The  range  of  the  needle  during  the  17th 
was  considerably  over  nineteen  degrees.  At  8.35  a.  m.  (Oottingen  mean  time)  November  17 
the  needle  had  moved  20°  28.2'  to  the  westward  and  stood  at  113°  19.8'  W.,  the  largest 
recorded  magnetic  variation  within  my  limited  knowledge. 

The  health  of  the  party  at  the  end  of  the  month  was  excellent.  Besides  geese  and  hares, 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  meat  was  issued  on  alternate  days. 

The  harbor  ice  increased  a  foot  [305'""']  in  thickness  during  the  month. 

The  mean  temperature  for  November  was  — 28°  [ — 33.3°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  — 1.1° 
[ — 18. 4°  C]  on  the  15th  and  a  minimum  of  —  46°  [ — 43.3°  C]  on  the  29th.  It  was  the  coldest 
November  experienced  by  any  Arctic  expedition.  The  mean  temperature  for  the  first  nine 
days  was  — 23.4"  [ — 30.8°  C],  or  11°  [6.1°  C]  below  that  for  the  same  period  the  previous 
year,  which  was  the  coldest  November  on  record.     Frozen  mercury  was  first  noted  on  the 


9th,  as  against  the  14th  in  1881. 
mercury  has  been  noted. 


This  is  probably  the  earliest  date  in  a  winter  on  which  frozen 


DECEMBER,  1882. 


The  aurora  was  noted  daily  from  the  ist  to  the  17th,  inclusive,  with  exception  of  the 
13th.  During  these  displays  the  magnet  was  generally  quiet,  but  a  heavy  disturbance  occurred 
on  the  19th,  at  which  time  the  weather  was  overcast.  It  may  here  be  noted  as  a  general 
result  of  our  observations,  that  our  magnetic  disturbances  were  generally  co-existent  with 
displays  of  aurora  which  showed  prismatic  colors  and  during  which  marked  and  sudden  changes 
of  form  occurred.  On  the  other  hand  the  magnet  remained  quiet  during  the  prevalence  of 
colorless  aurora  which  was  slow-moving  as  regards  change  of  position  or  tuichanging  in  shape. 

An  electrical  self-registering  tidal-gauge  was  devised  by  me  and  ptit  in  operation  during 
the  month  with  excellent  results,  showing  the  possibility  of  such  an  apparatus  for  use  in  high 
latitudes.     The  records  were  too  bulky  for  packing  and  were  left  at  Fort  Conger. 


IL 


IHB  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAT  EXPEDITION. 


Bd 


By  the  early  part  of  the  month  the  outer  wall,  built  as  a  protection  to  th.»  house,  was 
completed.  It  consisted  of  an  ice-wall  about  a  foot  thick  [305°""'],  running^  to  the  craves,  and 
the  space  between  the  ice-wall  and  house  was  later  filled  in  with  dry  snow,  so  that  the  entire 
thickness  of  the  protecting  wall  ranged  from  a  base  of  seven  feet  [2.134'"]  to  an  apex  of  two 
[610™"']. 

On  the  8th  we  experienced  a  touch  of  the  Greenland  foehn;  the  barometer  rose  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  [6"""]  during  the  day;  from  10  a.  m.  to  2  p.  m.  strong  southeast  to  southwest  wind 
puffs  were  experienced  ;  the  temperature  rose  thirteen  degrees  [7.2°  C]  in  a  single  hour,  and 
later  in  the  day  fell  as  much  in  two  hours. 

Christmas  was  celebrated  in  the  usual  manner,  but  was  hardly  as  great  a  success  as  that 
of  the  previous  year.     The  health  of  the  party  at  the  end  of  the  month  was  good. 

The  mean  temperature  was  —27.8°  [ — 32.2°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  +5.5"  [ —  14.7°  C] 
on  the  26th  and  a  minimum  of  —43.9°  [ — 42.2°  C]  on  the  31st.  This  month  was  one  of  the 
rare  instances  in  Arctic  observations  when  the  mean  temperature  of  December  has  been  above 
that  of  November. 

No  game  was  killed  during  the  month,  but  ermine  and  hare  tracks  were  seen,  and  on 
two  occasions  the  howling  of  a  wolf  was  heard. 

The  sea  ice  increased  eight  inches  [203°""]  in  thickness  against  one  foot  [305"""]  in  No- 
vember, and  was  forty-five  inches  [1.143'"]  thick  on  the  ist  of  January. 

JANUARY,  1883. 

Auroras  occurred  frequently  during  the  month,  unaccompanied,  as  a  rule,  by  marVaH 
magnetic  disturbances. 

The  temperature  being  very  low,  on  the  ist  and  2d  many  of  the  thermometers  were  tested 
in  freezing  mercury  [ — 37.9°  F.].  On  January  4  the  carelessness  of  the  observer  caused 
a  slight  fire  in  the  officers'  quarters,  which  fortunately  did  no  damage,  owing  to  the  self- 
possession  and  prompt  action  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 

On  the  26th  an  order  was  issued  for  the  exact  guidance  of  the  observers  in  meteorological 
and  magnetical  observations,  the  general  substance  of  which  had  been  the  habitual  practice 
of  the  observers. 

During  the  early  part  of  the  month  the  launch  was  slightly  injured  by  the  movement  of 
the  ice  during  a  storm,  but  the  damage  was  such  that  it  was  easily  repaired. 

On  the  i8th  light  snow  fell  at  a  remarkably  low  temperature  for  precipitation,  from 
-38°  [-38.9°  C]  to -39°  [-39-4°  C.]. 

During  Januarj'  no  game  was  killed,  but  hare  and  ermine  tracks  were  observed. 

The  health  of  the  party  was  good  during  the  month.  A  little  over  thirteen  ounces  of  fresh 
meat  was  used  per  man  daily.  For  a  few  daj's  an  extra  allowance  of  fresh  meat  was  '^iven 
Private  Biederbick  for  rheumatism,  and  to  Eskimo  Jens  Edward  on  account  of  his  small 
appetite,  which  was  attributed  by  the  doctor  to  home-sickness.  This  was  the  first  special 
diet  prescribed  by  the  doctor  during  our  service  of  nearly  a  year  and  a  half  at  Fort  Conger. 

Several  hourly  magnetic  readings  were  missed  through  breakages  of  the  suspension-thread 
of  the  magnetometer. 

The  mean  temperature  of  January  v.-iis  — 35.8°  [ — 37.7°  C],  with  a  maximum  of —  18° 
[ — 27.8°  C]  on  the  5th,  and  a  minimum  of  —  30.6°  [ — 45.9°  C]  on  the  i6th.  The  barom- 
eter touched  29.122  [739.7°""]  on  the  25th. 


FEBRUARY,  1883. 

I  decided  on  the  propriety  and  necessity  of  commencing  the  establishment  of  a  depot  of 
provisions  at  Cape  Baird,  for  use  during  retreat  in  case  the  relief  vessel  should  not  reach  Lady 


^2 


40 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I 


Franklin  Bay,  and  on  the  ist  of  the  month  Sergeant  Brainard  with  Kskimo  Christiansen  and 
(log-team  commenced  the  work.  The  surgeon  of  the  expedition  officially  and  professionally 
objected  to  it,  on  the  ground  that  any  work  in  the  field  was  exceedingly  dangerous  at  such  an 
early  period  of  the  year.  The  work,  however,  was  carried  on  at  various  dates  throughout  the 
month,  without  injury  from  frost-bite  or  in  any  other  manner,  and  the  stores  thus  accumulated 
were  of  primary  importance  later  in  the  year. 

An  observation  of  the  movement  of  the  harbor  ice,  on  the  7th,  showed  thai  the  flo'.  had 
moved  since  the  middle  of  October  twelve  and  one-half  feet  [3.810'"]  in  a  straight  line  to 
the  south-southwest,  which  was  offshore.  During  its  irregular  movement,  however,  the  en- 
tire movement  must  have  been  aboui  twenty  feet  [6.096°']. 

But  few  stars  could  be  seen  on  the  7th  at  local  noon,  and  thermometers  were  n  ^.1  lor  i.iree 
hours  without  artificial  ligh*  m  the  '^i';.  The  upper  limb  of  the  sun  was,  astronomically, 
'%ove  the  horizon  on  Mie  25(1',,  ')U!  .' .  i  u  .  ;eon  at  the  station  until  the  27th,  after  an  inter- 
\;il  of  one  hundred  i...d  thirty-scv  i'  ojs  .  '.ince  its  last  appearance.  Auroras  were  occasionally 
observed  during  die  nioutl- 

A  hare  was  killed  on  the  9th,   ,.\d  anci      ■  seen  on  the  loth. 

Corporal  vSalor  was  discharged  for  exijirutio  1  of  term  of  service  on  the  22d  and  re-enlisted 
on  the  23d.     His  warrant  as  corporal  was  continued. 

The  national  holiday  of  the  22d  was  celebrated  as  fully  as  possible. 

The  verbal  weekly  reports  of  the  surgeon  during  the  month  showed  the  health  of  the 
party  to  be  excellent.  A  special  allowance  of  fresh  meat  was  issued  for  a  short  time  to  Pri- 
vate Long.     To  the  general  party  nearly  a  pound  of  fresh  meat  was  issued  per  man  daily. 

The  mean  temperature  for  the  month  was  — 38.9°  [ — 39-4°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  —  5° 
[ — 20.6°  C]  on  the  21st,  and  a  minimum  of  — 56.5°  [ — 49.2°  C]  on  the  27th.  The  colde.<^t 
day  was  the  28tli,  with  a  mean  temperature  of  — 51.2°  [ — 46.2°  C],  the  maximum  being 
—  45.6°  [ — 43. 1°  C.].     The  monthly  mean  is  one  of  the  lowest  on  record. 

On  the  14th  tmusually  marked  and  sudden  changes  of  the  temperature  took  place,  with 
light  winds  from  easterly  quarters.  The  temperature  rose  12. 3° [6. 8°  C]  degrees  in  one 
hour,  and  fell  8.7°  [4  ''"  C]  in  fifteen  minutes.  Although  the  temperature  rose  to  — 32.9° 
[ — 36.1°  C],  the  mercury  thawed  in  none  of  the  thermometers,  even  the  most  delicate.  On 
the  19th  the  barometer  touched  28.968  [735.8"""],  the  lowest  recorded  at  the  station.  On  the 
28th  excellent  sound  experimenls  were  made,  with  the  temperature  at  —  54°  [ — 47.8°  C.]. 

MARCH,  1883. 

As  was  natural,  the  first  daj-s  of  spring  brought  a  sense  of  relief  that  the  second  winter 
had  ended,  and  the  entire  party  was  lu  strength  and  health.  The  knowledge  that  no  expe- 
dition had  ever  before  passed  a  second  winter  in  such  a  high  latitude,  added  to  the  forebodings 
repeatedly  expressed  by  the  surgeon  of  the  expedition,  had  caused  me  great  uneasiness,  and 
been  a  serious  mental  trial  through  the  late  Uionths. 

The  February  re^jort  of  that  oflficer,  received  on  the  3d,  stated  that  the  health  of  the  men 
was  good,  with  no  signs  of  scurvy,  and  but  two  men.  Long  and  Bender,  on  a  special  diet. 
During  the  early  days  of  the  month  the  depot  at  Cape  Baird  was  supplemented  by  additional 
supplies  of  food  as  opportunity  presented.  The  weather,  however,  was  trying,  as  up  to  the 
7th  of  March  the  sun  had  been  visible  but  three  hours. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  oixlered  to  prepare  for  the  continuation  of  the  exploration  of 
the  North  Greenland  coast,  in  which  it  was  believed  he  would  be  able  to  reach,  unless  unfor- 
tunate, the  eighty-fourth  parallel.  The  trij)  to  be  made  early  in  March  was  with  a  view  to 
establishing  special  depots  for  the  final  journey. 

On  March  9  I  received  from  the  surgeon  of  the  expedition  what  appeared  to  nie  as  a 
remarkable  letter  (Appendix  No.  62),  which  practically  recommended  the  abandonment  of 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION, 


41 


all  work  of  exploration.  My  own  views  at  the  time  are  shown  in  jny  answer  (Appendix  No. 
63),  in  which  I  declared  that  the  abandonment  of  field  work  throngh  a  fear  of  possible  contin- 
ii[encies  seemed  to  me  dishonorable  and  tnimanly.  Owing  to  the  death  cf  Dr.  Pavy,  I  have 
no  desire  t)  add  furthci  to  my  letter  of  March  -o,  1883,  than  to  say  1  '.  the  spring  journeys 
of  that  year  were  fruitful  in  geographical  results  of  great  importance  nv  value,  and  that  such 
work  was  '''.  mc  without  accident  or  injury,  and  that  it  in  no  way  int.  'it  -ed  with  our  arrange- 
ments fo"  subsequent  retreat  by  boats. 

Ueutenant  Lockwood,  with  Sergeants  Brainard,  Jewell,  and  Private  Long,  with  two  dog- 
teams  and  drivers,  left  on  the  loth  of  March  and  returned  on  the  17th.  Lieutenant  Lock  wood's 
orders  and  report  form  Appendices  Nos.  64  and  65.  He  succeeded  in  laying  out  a  practical 
sledge  route  from  Cape  Beechey  to  Cape  Sumner,  and  near  the  latter  point  a  cache  of  about 
thirteen  hundred  pounds  was  established.  Sergeant  Jewell,  who  remained  in  the  field  one  day 
longer  than  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  perform  certain  work,  met  with  a  misfortune  at  depot  B, 
which  delayed  him  several  hours,  and  might  under  other  circumstances  have  proved  a  very 
serious  matter.  His  dogs  during  the  night  stole  and  ate  all  the  harness  and  whip,  which  had 
been  secured  in  an  empty  tent  instead  c  hpir  own.  His  report  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
forms  Appendi.x  No.  66. 

This  preliminary  field  work  was  p.  -*orn'  n  the  most  satisfactory  manner,  and  without 
any  accident  apart  from  the  great  discrM;"  -t.;  aiising  from  sledging  in  very  low  temperatures.  . 
Sergeant  Elison,  wl;o  started  with  L  ..on;,  .t  Lockwood,  was  taken  sick  the  first  day  out,  but 
feeling  better  the  next  morning  he  conti  ,  ;ed  on  until  the  13th,  when  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
sent  him  back  by  a  sledge  to  depot  F  tiear  Cape  Beechey,  whence,  as  he  had  recovered  strength, 
he  persuaded  Sergeant  Jewell  to  pc'  it  lum  to  return  to  the  station  on  foot.  The  pluck  and 
courage  .shown  by  Sergeant  Elison  on  tnis  occasion  was  only  in  keeping  with  his  entire  field 
.service  in  connection  with  the  expedition. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  party  left  on  the  27th  for  their  final  journey  on  the  north  coast 
of  Greenland.  My  letter  of  instructions  forms  Appendi.x  No.  67.  Sergeants  Brainard  and 
Jewell,  Private  Ellis,  the  two  Eskimo,  and  two  strong  teams,  of  ten  dogs  each,  accompanied 
him.  Ellis  was  detailed  on  the  doctor's  recommendation,  he  insisting  '^n  the  retention  of 
Sergeant  Linn,  who  was  originally  selected  for  this  duty,  at  the  station.  Private  Schneider 
accompanied  them  with  the  pnppy  team  to  Water-course  Bay.  The  party  was  thoroughly  and 
carefully  fitted  out,  and  they  left  more  perfectly  equipped  than  in  the  preceding  spring.  While 
in  the  field  they  had  fresh  musk-meat  for  half  their  meat  ration  and  the  cooking  and  sleeping 
gear  were  so  arranged  that  one,  two,  or  three  men  could  trav  el  together  or  be  safely  left  alone. 
The  plan  contemplated  the  return  of  the  supporting  party  with  Jewell's  sledge  on  the  23d  of 
April,  and  that  Lieutenan*^^  Lockwood  himself  should  turn  back  from  the  north  by  the  19th  of 
May,  and  reach  the  shore  of  Grinnell  Land  by  the  ist  of  June.  The  dogs  of  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood's  team  averaged  70  pounds  in  weight,  and  the  members  of  the  party  in  traveling  dress 
about  175  pounds  each.  The  cons/a/ii  weights  of  the  advance  sledge  were  estimated  at  312 
pounds,  and  the  supporting  sledge  at  280  pounds.  The  estimate  of  the  entire  weights  to  be 
hauled  by  the  teams  when  leaving  Cape  Sumner  were  based  from  my  observations  of  the  pre- 
ceding spring  that  a  good  dog-team  can  haul  a  load  amounting  to  150  per  cent,  of  its  weight. 
In  consequence,  the  party  were  to  start  from  that  point  with  aboixt  2, 100  pounds,  including 
sledges. 

On  the  28th  all  meteorological  and  tidal  observations  were  taken,  for  the  first  time  that 
year,  without  artificial  light. 

Prom  the  17th  the  puppy-team,  driven  by  Private  Schneider,  had  been  employed  as  far 
as  possible  in  hauling  coal  which  had  been  mined  the  preceding  autumn,  and  piled  on  the 
shore  of  Water-course  Bay.  Nearly  five  thousand  pounds  of  this  coal  were  hauled  to  the 
station  during  the  month. 


I 


II 


42 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


■    L 


March  was  not  a  fortunate  month  for  game,  only  three  hares  and  a  lemming  being 
obtained.  Two  ptarmigan  were  .seen  on  the  23d,  and  two  wolves  on  the  27th.  That  the 
foxes  remained  in  the  country  during  the  winter  was  strongly  evidenced  by  reports,  early  in 
the  month,  that  the  pemmican  cached  at  Wrangel  Bay,  and  also  that  at  Cape  Beechey,  had 
been  eaten  by  them. 

The  weekly  reports  of  the  surgeon  indicated  the  continued  good  health  of  the  party. 
Only  minor  ailments  developed,  and  but  three  of  the  men,  Cross,  Bender,  and  Long,  were 
named  as  being  unfit  for  field  .service. 

On  the  28th  the  surgeon  was  ordered  to  furnish,  by  April  30,  a  general  report,  treating  in 
detail  the  health  of  the  command  to  June  30,  1882;  and  by  July  10,  with  a  second  report 
covering  it  to  June  30,  1883.  These  reports  were  required  so  that  the  entire  subject  of  health 
might  be  treated  fully  while  the  data  were  fresh  in  the  doctor's  mind,  and  that  our  experiences 
might  be  on  record  and  so  available,  in  case  of  any  disaster,  for  the  information  of  future 
expeditions.  Indeed,  one  central  thought  the  last  year  was  to  insure  the  rendition  to  our 
countrymen  of  the  fruits  of  our  two  year?"  labors. 

The  mean  temperature  for  March  was — 17.9°  [ — 27.7°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  -\-g.g'^ 
[ — 12.3°  C]  on  the  8th,  and  a  minimum  of  — 49.1"  [ — 45-i°  C]  on  the  ist.  The  monthly 
mean  temperature  was  the  highest  on  record  in  connection  with  the  various  expeditions  in 
Smith  Sound. 

On  the  8th  a  storm  of  unu.  ual  violence  prevailed.  The  wind  attained  a  velocity  of  about 
sixty  miles  per  hour  (26.8"  per  second),  and  the  temperature  rose  to  +3.3**  [ — 15.9°  C]  at  7 
a.  m.,  a  change  of  11.8°  [6.4°  C]  in  an  hour.  It  was  the  first  time  in  seventy-one  days  that 
the  temperature  was  observed  above  zero  [ — 17.8°  C.].  During  the  height  of  the  storm  a 
heavy  swell  of  from  four  to  six  inches  high  [101.6  to  152.4""]  was  observed  in  the  tide-hole, 
thus  indicating  that  the  gale  must  have  been  an  exceedingly  violent  one  on  the  open  straits. 

On  the  15th  the  temperature  was  extraordinarily  high  for  March;  being  above  zero 
[ — 17.8°  C]  for  fourteen  hours  during  the  day. 

The  ice  increased  in  thickness  only  an  inch  and  a  half  [38.1""]  during  the  month,  being 
56 54^  inches  [1.429"]  on  the  ist  of  April. 

On  the  23d  and  23d  remarkable  changes  of  the  barometer  took  place,  unaccompanied  by 
high  winds  until  the  end  of  the  fluctuations.  The  barometer  rose  .054  inch  [1.4""]  in 
one  hour,  .168  [4.3""]  in  four  hours,  .822  [20.^""]  in  twenty-six  hours,  1.030  [26.2""]  in 
thirty-one  hours,  and  1.123  [28.5""]  in  forty  hours. 

Experiments  made  during  the  month,  over  a  measured  course,  showed  that  our  Eskimo 
dogs  with  light  sledge,  could  rarely  travel  more  than  five  miles  an  hour,  and  with  a  loaded 
sledge  about  lialf  that  distance.  " 

•       APRIL,  1883. 

On  April  5  Sergeant  Rice  was  ordered  to  prepare  for  a  sledge  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor 
for  the  purpose  of  bringing  to  the  station  the  twenty-foot  [6.096"]  ice-boat,  left  there  by 
Lieutenant  Beaumont,  R.  N.,  in  1876.  His  orders  form  Appendix  No.  68.  In  connection 
witli  this  trip,  Sergeant  Rice  examined  the  ice  from  Distant  Cape  eastward  into  Hall  Basin  on 
April  6,  and  visited  Cape  Murchison  on  his  return. 

Sergeant  Rice  with  his  party  of  ten  men  left,  April  10.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  accom- 
panied the  sledge  party  a  few  miles  into  the  strait.  Dr.  Pavy  was  not  assigned  to  the  command 
of  the  party  on  account  of  his  expressed  unwillingness  to  assume  any  responsibility  in  con- 
nection with  this  work,  claiming  that  his  duties  with  the  expedition  were  strictly  those  of 
a  medical  officer.  He  accompanied  the  party  as  a  medical  officer  in  accordance  with  his  own 
wish  and  earnest  recommeudntion.     The  instructions  to  Dr.  Pavy  form  Appendix  No.  69. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  TIAY  EXPEDITION. 


4$ 


On  April  12  I  was  surprised  by  the  return  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  his  party,  all  of 
whom  were  in  excellent  condition.  They  had  been  compelled,  by  open  water  and  the  disin- 
tegration of  the  polar  pack  near  lilack  Horn  Cliffs,  to  return  to  the  station.  In  an  attempt  to 
round  the  cliffs  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  Sergeant  Hrainard,  and  P'skimo Christiansen  came  very 
near  being  set  off  into  the  Polar  Sea  by  the  movement  of  tlie  pack.  Their  trip  to  Hlack  Horn 
Cliffs  had  been  a  remarkable  one,  having  been  made  from  the  station  in  six  days  against 
twenty-two  to  the  same  point  in  1881.  The  entire  sledging  outfit  was  found  to  be  perfect, 
and  only  the  unfortunate  breaking  up  of  the  polar  pack  prevented  the  party  from  attain- 
ing a  remarkably  high  latitude.  The  journey,  however,  could  not  be  considered  fruitless,  as 
Sergeant  Jewell  obtained  at  BiackHorn  Cliffs,  Repulse  Harbor,  and  Cape  Sumner,  sets  of 
extended  tidal  observations  which  must  be  of  marked  value  for  determining  the  co-tidal 
lines  of  thePolar  Ocean  and  Robeson  Channel.  The  formal  report  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
forms  Appendix  No.  70,  and  that  of  Sergeant  Jewell  No.  71. 

On  the  14th  Sergeant  Brainard  left  with  dog-team  to  assist  Sergeant  Rice  in  bringing 
in  the  English  ice-boat,  being  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  who,  desiring  to  be 
of  use,  volunteered  for  the  trip.  Sergeant  Rice  returned  on  the  15th,  having  made  a  most 
successful  trip,  and  brought  the  ice-boat  in  perfect  condition.  His  detailed  report  forms 
Appendix  No.  72.  The  medical  report  of  Dr.  Pavy  forms  Appendix  No.  73,  and  is  different 
from  what  was  expected  after  his  strong  verbal  representations  of  the  absolute  necessity  of 
a  doctor  accompanying  the  men  to  watch  over  their  debilitated  physical  condition.  The 
result  of  this  journey  shows  the  excellent  physical  condition  of  the  party.  The  twelve  men 
engaged  therein  were  but  an  average  of  the  party,  and  a  round  trip  of  nearly  ninety  miles 
in  six  days  was  made  by  them,  subjected  to  a  mean  temperature  of  — 21°  [ — 294  C],  and 
with  no  higher  temperature  noted  than  — 13°  [ — 25°  C.].  The  ice-boat  was  later  moved 
by  Sergeants  Gardiner  and  Cross,  Private  Schneider,  and  Eskimo  Jens,  with  dogs,  to  Cape 
Baird,  v/here  she  was  secured  for  possible  use  during  the  coming  autumn. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  extremely  anxious  that  I  should  permit  him  to  attempt  again 
the  exploration  of  the  North  Greenland  coast.  After  a  thorough  consideration  of  the  subject, 
I  decided  against  tlie  advisability.  A  different  course  would  have  been  followed  if  the  party 
had  intended  wintering  another  year  at  Conger,  or  there  had  been  any  certainty  of  the  arrival 
of  a  vessel.  I,  however,  decided  to  send  him  southward  into  Archer  Fiord  to  attempt  the 
crossing  of  Grinnell  Land  to  the  western  ocean,  and  issued  the  orders  on  the  morning  of  the 
24th.  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  accompanied  as  usual  by  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Eskimo  Chris- 
tiansen, left  at  8  o'clock  that  evening  with  two  teams  of  ten  dogs  each.  The  second  team  was 
under  the  charge  of  Sergeant  Elison  and  driven  by  Eskimo  Jens.  Sergeant  Elison  returned 
on  the  29th,  accompanied  by  Privates  Connell  and  Henry,  who  had  visited  in  the  mean  time 
the  Bellows  and  Black  Rock  Valley  for  game,  of  which  no  traces  were  seen  except  rabbit  and 
wolf  tracks.  Sergeant  Elison  had  accompanied  Lieutenant  Lockwood  an  hour's  travel  on  the 
third  day,  turning  back  when  about  five  miles  from  Depot  Point. 

Nine  thousand  five  hundred  pounds  of  coal  were  hauled  from  the  mine  in  Water-course 
ravine  during  April,  being  within  one-third  of  a  ton  of  the  amount  consumed  at  the  station. 

On  the  5th,  owing  to  the  limited  amount  of  fuel,  the  fires  were  allowed  to  die  down  in 
the  quarters  of  the  officers  and  men  between  the  hours  of  9  p.  m.  and  6  a.  m.  The  temper- 
ature, however,  rarely  sank  below  +30  [ — i.i'^  C.].  This  slight  reduction  of  fuel  caused  no 
inconvenience  or  sickness,  and  is  only  alluded  to  by  me  as  the  surgeon  of  the  expedition  ver- 
bally protested  against  it,  prophesied  resulting  sickness,  and  made  it  the  subject-matter  of 
official  mention  in  his  medical  report  of  May  5. 

The  ice  increased  i>^  inches  [38.1"""]  in  thickness  during  the  month,  measuring  nearly 
58  inches  [1.473'"]  o"  M^Y  i.  at  which  time  the  ice  on  Lake  A.cxandra  (fresh  water  lake)  was 
found  to  be  79.8  inches  [2.027"']  thick,  at  a  point  where  a  sounding  gave  33  feet  [10. 058"°]. 


44 


THK  LADV  FUANKLIN  IJAV  KX  PEDITION. 


The  mean  temperature  for  the  moiitli  was  -14.8"  [ — 26°  C],  beiiijj  nearly  as  cold  as  the 
preceding;  month  of  March.  A  nuiximum  of  6.6°  [ —  14.  i"  C]  was  noted  on  the  29th,  and  a 
minimum  of  —37.3°  [ — 3^-5°  C]  on  the  3d.  It  was  the  coldest  April  on  record  except  1876, 
on  the  same  coast.  The  severity  of  the  weather  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  the  temperature  did 
not  rise  above  /ero[ —  i7.8o°«C.]  until  the  27th,  except  for  a  siiifjle  observation  on  the  22d. 

The  month  was  an  unfortunate  one  for  K^me,  only  two  hares  and  four  ptarmijjan  beinjf 
killed.  A  snow-bird  was  seen  on  the  25th,  ten  days  later  than  in  1S82.  Nearly  a  pound  of 
fresh  meat,  however,  was  available  daily  per  man,  and  the  health  of  the  command  continued 
good. 

MAY,  1883. 

On  May  6  a  party  was  sent  to  Cape  Reechey  under  charge  of  »Sergeant  Jewell,  and  a 
second  to  Cape  Haird  under  Sergeant  (lardiner  (Appendix  No.  76),  to  make  a  series  of  simul- 
taneous tidal -readings  in  connection  with  the  readings  made  at  Fort  Conger. 

On  May  23  Sergeant  Jewell  again  visited  Cape  Heechey,  and  a  second  set  of  simultaneous 
readings  were  made  at  Cape  Heechey,  Distant  Cape,  Dutch  Island,  and  Conger.  These  ob- 
servations were  deemed  by  me  of  special  importance  for  determining  the  co-tidal  lines  of 
Robeson  Channel  and  Ha;!  Basin.  Sergeant  Jewell  also  made  observations  for  latitude  and 
longitude,  which,  reduced  by  my  astronomer.  Sergeant  Israel,  showed  Cape  Beechey  to  be  in 
latitude  81°  52'  29"  N.,  and  longitude  00''  07'"  22.3'  (in  time)  east  of  Fort  Conger.  Sergeant 
Jewell's  orders  and  report  form  Appendices  Nos.74  and  75. 

Sergeant  Israel,  the  astronomer  of  the  expedition,  visited  Cape  Baird  on  the  9th,  to 
determine  carefully  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  that  point.  The  latitude,  determined  from 
a  set  of  circum-meridian  observations,  was  81°  32'  27.7"  N.,  with  a  possible  error  of  plus  or 
minus  0.9".  The  cape  was  00''  00'"  57.5'  east  of  F^ort  Conger  (in  time).  This  determination 
makes  the  latitude  of  Cape  Lieber  about  81°  28'  N.  Sergeant  Israel's  orders  and  report  are 
Appendices  Nos.  77  and  78. 

During  his  trip  to  Cape  Baird  Sergeant  Gardiner,  in  accordance  with  his  instructions, 
made  careful  and  extended  observation  of  the  many  floe-bergs  grounded  at  that  point,  with  a 
view  to  determining  if  their  structure  was  a  stratified  one. 

I  had  previously  examined  all  floe-bergs  easily  accessible  from  the  station,  and  especially 
those  which  had  split  since  grounding.  The  angles  of  cleavage  were  almost  invariably  per- 
pendicular and  extremely  regular.  In  examining  the  interior  of  recently  split  floe-bergs 
plainly  defined  strata  were  visible  in  every  case.  The  upper  part  of  the  ice  was  somewhat 
more  opaque  and  of  a  whiter  color  than  that  below.  Many  of  these  paleocrystic  floe-bergs 
resembled  very  closely  in  color  and  structure  the  recently  fallen  ice  from  the  Henrietta  Nes- 
mith  Glacier,  on  the  north  side  of  Lake  Hazen,  which  was  examined  by  me  in  May,  1882. 
Sergeant  Jewell  reported  seeing  a  very  large  floe-berg  on  the  North  Greenland  coast  in  April, 
1883,  which  had  thirteen  very  marked  and  clearly-defined  strata.  He  examined  it  very 
closely,  in  accordance  with  my  general  instructions  on  that  point.  Sergeant  Gardiner's 
observations  at  Cape  Baird  showed  stratification  to  be  general  and  it  is  probably  universal. 
His  instructions  and  report  form  Appendices  Nos.  76  and  79,  and  Sergeant  Jewell's,  bearing  on 
the  same  subject.  Appendix  No.  80.  Sergeant  Jewell  visited  Cape  Beechey  May  21-24,  for 
tidal  and  time  observations  (see  Appendices  Nos.  81  and  82). 

Simultaneous  tidal  readings  at  Capes  Beetiiey,  Baird,  Distant  Cape,  and  Conger  developed 
peculiarities  which  appeared  to  render  further  observations  necessary,  and  on  the  28th  Ser- 
geants BrainardandCiardiner,  with  dog-team,  were  sent  to  Cape  Cracroft  to  make  simultaneous 
observations  in  connection  with  Distant  Cape  and  Fort  Conger.  These  observations  with 
preceding  tidal  readings  have  been  transmitted  to  the  Superintendent  of  the  United  States 
Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  for  reduction  and  discussion.     During  these  trips  Sergeant  Gard- 


(n      ^ 


Ilf 


►n 
f 


THE  LADY' FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDrTION.. 


4lfi^' 


iner  made,  under  tr}-ing  circiimstauces,  a  sijecial  examination  and  collection  of  the  fossils  at 
Cape  Cracroft.  The  collection  of  fossils  was  very  extensive  and  complete,  but  was  necessarily 
abandoned  at  Conger,  as  well  as  the  fossils  at  Cape  Baird.  »Sergeant  (iardiner's  report  on  this 
subject  forms  yVppendix  No.  84;  Sergeant  Brainard's  general  report,  Appendix  No.  S3. 

Sergeant  Brainard';;  report  is  particularly  interesting  from  his  account  of  fossil  trees,  over 
a  foot  [305"""]  in  diameter,  found  bj-  him,  at  an  elevation  of  .some  eight  hundred  feet  [244"']  on 
Judge  Daly  peninsula,  .several  miles  south  of  Cape  Baird.  vSergeants  Gardiner  and  Mrainard 
are  entitled  to  much  credit  for  the  success  of  this  trip.  The  trip  was  a  dangerous  one  owing 
to  the  advanced  season  of  the  year  and  the  decayed  condition  of  the  ice.  Its  execution  would 
not  have  been  directed  but  for  my  unwillingness  to  allow  an  apparently  vexed  scientific  (pie.s- 
tion,  which  could  be  determined  by  direct  observation,  to  remain  unsettled  on  the  ground  that 
the  performance  of  such  duty  entailed  danger. 

On  May  26  Lieutenant  Lockwood  returned  from  an  exploration  westward,  after  an  ab- 
sence of  thirty-one  days.  The  party  was  iniierfect  health  and  excellent  spirits.  His  journey 
had  been  remarkably  succe.ssfid.  He  explored  the  valley  at  the  head  of  lUla  Bay,  and  find- 
ing no  practical  route  in  that  direction  proceeded  to  Beatrix  l?ay,  and  from  that  point  suc- 
ceeded in  cro.ssing  (irinnell  Land,  reaching  the  salt  watci  from  the  I'olar  Ocean  at  the  head  of 
a  fiord  named  by  him  in  the  field  Greely  Fiord.  He  traveled  down  the  fiord  some  twenty-five 
miles  and  reached  a  point  in  80°  48'  N.,  77°  W.  After  waiting  three  days  on  less  than  half 
rations  for  fair  weather,  he  noted  on  a  clear  day  the  apparent  termination  of  Grintiell  Land, 
on  the  north  side  of  Greely  Fiord,  in  Cape  Brainard.  To  the  southwest,  at  a  distance  of  some 
sixty  or  seventy  uiiles,  a  projecting  point  of  high  land  could  be  seen,  which  apparently  was 
.separated  by  a  wide  fiord  from  the  southern  part  of  Grinnell  Land.  It  .seemed  jjroper  to 
me  to  name  this  point  Cape  Lockwood,  in  honor  of  its  discoverer,  and  to  designate  the  new 
land  as  Arthur  Land,  in  honor  of  Chester  A.  Arthur,  then  President  of  the  United  vStates.  In 
addition.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  discovered  that  the  southern  half  of  Grinnell  Land  is  covered 
by  an  immense  ice-cap,  which  extends  from  the  head  of  Klla  Bay  to  the  .southern  shores  of 
Greely  Fiord.  A  marked  peculiarity  of  this  ice-cap  was  its  unbroken  and  perpendicular  front 
which  ranged  from  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  to  two  hundred  feet  [38  10  6i"']  in  height. 
Such  was  its  abrupt  character  that  but  two  places,  in  a  fifty-mile  journey  along  its  front,  were 
observed  where  it  would  have  been  possible  to  scale  it. 

During  this  journey  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Sergeant  Brainard  displayed  energy, 
endurance,  loyalty,  and  pluck,  which  were  hardly  second  to  their  record  of  the  previous  year 
on  the  shores  of  the  frozen  Polar  Sea.  For  nearly  a  week  the  entire  party  lived  on  less  than 
half  rations  in  order  to  render  as  complete  as  possible  their  work  of  exploration  and  discover)-. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood's  loyalty  in  connection  with  this  journey  impressed  me  with  par- 
ticular force.  He  deemed  the  crossing  of  Grinnell  Land  an  impossibility,  and  in  starting  out 
had  entreated  me  to  permit  him  instead  to  examine  the  glacial  s)stem  of  I^ake  Ilazcn.  His 
persistency,  energy,  and  fidelity  in  attempting  the  route  from  Beatrix  Bay  after  failing  in  Klla 
Bay,  evidenced  most  strongly  his  determination  that  his  commanding  ofiicer's  idea  of  the  prac- 
ticability of  the  cro.ssing  of  Grinnell  Land  should  not  fail  through  him.  This  trip,  in  common 
with  all  our  extended  journeys,  entailed  marked  privations  and  serious  hardships,  to  wliich, 
in  the  interest  of  their  work.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Sergeant  Brainard  voluntarily  added 
a  serious  reduction  of  rations  for  .several  days. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood'.'-,  full  and  very  interesting  report,  with  his  instructions,  forms 
.Appendices  Nos.  85  and  86.  Sergeant  Brainard's  share  of  this  work  showed  the  .same  ster- 
ling qualities  evinced  by  him  the  previous  year,  and  in  eoiLseiiuence  he  was  reeommended  by 
me  in  1882  for  a  commission  in  the  Army. 

On  IVIay  i  Dr.  Pavy,  who  was  serving  as  the  naturalist  of  the  expedition,  was  directed  to 
furnish,  by  May  31,  a;;  complete  a  report  concerning  the  natural  history  of  the  expedition  as 


46 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


was  possible.  A  description  of  all  specimens  on  hand  was  to  be  given,  and  ^uch  notes  made 
as  wonld  facilitate  the  speedy  rendering  of  a  report  on  the  retnrn  of  the  expedition,  or  as 
would  secnre  similar  resnlts  if  their  abandonment  should  be  necessary.  This  order  was 
deemed  essential  to  prevent  the  entire  loss  of  our  labors  in  case  of  a  contemplated  retreat  by 
boats.  He  was  also  ordered  to  furnish,  by  May  6,  six  complete  sets  of  botanical  specimens,  so 
arranged  that  they  could  be  securely  transported  and  duplicates  be  intrusted  to  each  officer  of 
the  expedition.  Instructions  on  this  subject  form  Appendices  Nos.  87  and  88.  The  collection 
of  plants  was  not  delivered  tnitil  May  22.  The  collection  was  an  exceedingly  poor  one  and 
was  inisatisfactory  in  its  condition  and  necessitated  a  new  collection  that  summer.  The 
lichens  were  not  furnished  initil  the  25th,  and  only  after  repeated  applications  for  them.  The 
provisions  of  my  letter  of  May  2,  requiring  a  report  by  letter  regarding  certain  deficiencies  in 
the  specimens  and  their  arrangement,  were  never  complied  with  by  Dr.  Pavy.  On  June  i,  my 
written  orders  of  May  i  having  been  entirely  disregarded,  it  became  necessary  for  me  to  order 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  relieve  Dr.  Pavy  of  his  duties  as  naturalist.  (See  Apnendix  No.  89.) 
The  small  amount  of  work  done  by  Dr.  Pavy  in  nearly  two  years,  and  the  unsatisfactory  con- 
dition of  the  specimens  whet)  transferred  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  are  shown  by  Appendix 
No.  90.  In  extenuation  of  my  re^jponsibility  for  such  a  condition  of  affairs,  I  should  say  that 
Dr.  Pavy's  repeated  verbal  reports  to  me  led  me  to  believe  that  the  specimens  obtained  had  been 
properly  preserved  and  that  full  and  complete  notes  had  been  made  regarding  them.  Many  of 
the  gaps  in  the  natural  history  notes  were  subsequently  filled  by  extracts  drawn  almost  entirely 
from  my  private  journal  and  that  of  Sergeant  Rlison. 

During  this  month  we  lost  nearly  three  hundred  pounds  of  fresh  meat,  which  had  become 
ainted  in  its  interior  though  perfectly  good  externally.  The  month  was  hardly  to  be  called 
a  good  one  for  game.  Eleven  ptarmigan,  two  seals,  seven  hares,  and  three  musk-cattle  were 
obtained.  A  musk-ox  was  killed  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  during  his  western  trij),  and  the 
t\v  "I  others  on  the  30th  of  May  by  Private  Cotniell,  who  had  been  sent  with  Eskimo  Jens  and 
dog-sledge  hunting  to  Black  Rock  Vale. 

The  health  of  the  command  during  May  was  good,  though  probably  a  number  of  the  men 
who  disliked  the  seal  meat  suffered  somewhat  by  their  abstention  from  that  part  of  our  diet. 

The  thickness  of  the  harbor-ice  on  June  i  was  54.4  inches  [1.382"'];  a  decrease  of  only 
about  2.5  inches  [63.5'"""]  during  May. 

The  mean  temperature  for  May  was  14.8°  [ — 9.6°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  32.3°  [o.2°C.] 
on  the  22d,  and  a  minimum  of  — 13°  [ — 25°  C]  on  the  ist.  The  severity  of  the  weather 
during  the  month  may  be  imagined  from  the  fact  that  but  for  one  hour  was  the  temperature 
above  the  melting-point  of  ice.  The  sno  .v'-storm  of  May  27  and  28  was  noticeable  as  being 
the  longest  continued  snow  at  the  station  ;  it  lasted  for  sixty-two  hours. 

The  30th  of  May  was  considered  as  a  holiday,  and  in  hoiuir  of  our  "Decoration  Day," 
and  in  fortunate  default  of  any  graves  of  our  own,  the  head-boards  of  the  Arctic  dead  of  the 
English  expedition  of  i875-'76  were  decorated.  The  initiative  in  this  matter,  as  in  the  pre- 
ceding year,  was  taken  by  Privates  Frederick  and  Long.  These  marks  of  appreciation  and 
honor  for  the  foreign  dead  must  be  considered  of  greater  value  as  coming  from  the  rank  and 
file  of  the  expedition  than  if  they  had  been  suggested  by  the  ofRcers. 


JUNE,  1883. 

On  June  8  Ih  '"'Vyi  ^-  '••''  own  request,  was  sent  with  the  dog-sledge  to  Cape  Paird  to 
examine  the  petriiactiuns  and  fossils  in  that  neighborhood}.  He  returned  on  the  9th.,  having 
been  unable  to  fad  li-rui.     No  \M"itte)'.  repot'  was  made  by  hiui  of  the  trip. 

The  ('>':r-  ileu(.e  uncur  S<.vgt  aiit  Linu  \'as  .sent  to  Cajje  Murchison  on  the  loth  to  bring 
in  some  suppu-is  ki.ied{:d  for  ll.c  party. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


47 


Private  Connell  was  sent  with  Eskimo  Jetis's  sledge  to  the  Hcllows  on  a  hunting  trip  on 
the  17th.  He  returned  on  the  20th  with  three  hundred  and  eighty-five  pounds  of  meat.  He 
had  found  a  herd  of  sixteen  cattle  at  the  head  of  the  Bellows,  eight  of  which  he  killed,  very 
judiciously  sparing  the  rest,  owing  to  the  slight  chance  of  the  meat  being  brought  to  the  sta- 
tion. Privates  Schneider  and  Ellis  were  sent  later,  each  with  a  dog-sledge,  and  succeeded  in 
bringing  in  over  six  hundred  pounds  of  meat.  These  trips  were  made  with  great  trouble,  as  the 
river  in  the  Bellows  Valley  was  very  high  and  was  forded  with  great  difficulty ;  owing  to  rapidly 
melting  snow  the  stream  was  ilsing  with  stich  rapidity  at  the  time  of  the  last  crossing  that  it 
was  useless  to  attempt  another  trip.  This  meat  was  a  great  lienefit  and  satisfaction  to  the 
party,  and  \/as  especially  a  boon  to  those  who  disliked  seal-meat. 

During  the  month  other  game  was  killed  in  considerable  quantities.  A  seal,  two  haica, 
twelve  brent-geese,  forty-two  ducks,  twenty-one  dovekies,  fifteen  ptannigan,  ar.d  many  other 
smaller  birds,  were  obtained. 

The  first  flower,  a  purple  saxifrage  {Saxifrnga  oppositifolid)^  was  fotuid  in  blossom  June 
4,  three  days  later  than  in  the  preceding  year.  The  list  of  flowers  found,  with  their  dates  of 
blossoming  and  other  information,  forms  Appendix  No.  130. 

The  first  brent-geese  appeared  on  the  5th  of  June  ;'.'.id  the  ducks  on  the  6th.  An  authen- 
ticated egg  of  the  knot  {Triiiga  caniitus)  was  procured  on  the  9th;  the  first  authenticated 
specimen  ever  known.  The  longer  axis  of  the  egg  was  one  and  one-tenth  inch,  and  the 
shorter  about  one  inch.  The  ground  color  was  a  light  pea-green,  closely  spotted  with  small 
brown  specks  about  the  size  of  the  head  of  an  ordinary  pin. 

Steep  ravines,  with  southern  exposure,  commenced  discharging  freely  on  the  4th,  while 
those  of  a  lower  gradient  and  other  location  were  yet  frozen. 

Hunting  near  the  station  was  followed  almost  daily,  but  the  only  distant  trips,  besides 
that  of  Private  Connell,  were  made  by  Private  Biederbick,  who  alone  visited  the  Bellows  and 
St.  Patrick  Valley.  While  hunting  near  Distant  Cape,  Private  Ellis  discovered  on  the  26th 
the  remains  of  an  old  Eskimo  sledge.  It  was  about  four  feet  long  [1.219™],  of  wood,  ap- 
parently pine,  shod  with  the  bone  of  the  whale,  and  was  found  about  forty  feet  [12'"]  above 
the  sea. 

vSergeant  Erainard  visited  Cape  Baird  on  the  i6th  to  examine  the  ice  to  the  southward,  and 
to  obtain  game  if  possible.  The  only  water  visible  on  the  19th  from  the  summit  of  Cape  Lieber 
was  a  narrow  lane  to  the  northward  of  Joe  Island  and  an  open  space  near  Distant  Cape  and 
Cape  Murchison.  Sergeant  Brainard  brouLdit  in  a  fine  and  large  collection  of  fossils  and  pet' 
rifactions,  gathered  near  Cape  Baird  on  D 

On  June  30  Lieutenant  Lockwood  s 

arranged.  It  should  here  be  stated,  that,  during 
.on.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  carefidly  and  systemati- 
collection  of  this  and  the  previous  summer,  num- 
and  packed  them  in  the  best  manner  (except  the 
plants,  which  were  in  my  own  chargeV  .md  had  the  cases  so  arranged  that  they  could  have 
been  loaded  in  an  hour  on  the  rel-  <•  earner.  The  specimens  as  packed  will  remain  many 
years  uninjured  by  weather  or  anim  s.  Sergeant  Elison,  by  his  habits  of  application  and 
tmtiring  zeal,  added  many  fine  specimeu>  of  birds  ready  for  mounting,  and  Sergeants  Brainard 
and  Gardiner  contributed  remarkably  fire  collections  of  fossils,  while  I  obtained  very  many 
marine  specimens  and  a  large  number  <  >  fossils  from  the  shale  at  the  coal  mine.  To  Sergeant 
Elison's  interest  and  skillful  handliii'^  was  also  due  the  excellent  condition  of  the  botanical 
specimens  brought  back,  most  of  which  were  gathered  by  me,  but  all  of  which  were  beautifully 
pressed  and  dried  by  him. 

The  list  of  birds  seen  during  the  t  ^■;  years,  and  notes  thereon,  form  Appendix  No.  131. 
A  similar  list  as  to  mannnalia  forms  Appendix  No.  129. 


collections  in  natural  history,  classified  n 
his  brief  service  as  naturalist  of  the  expei  1 
cally  brought  together  in  order  the  lariic 
bered  and  labeled  all  specimens,  arrang 


Peninsula, 
iiitted,  with  Appendix  No.  91,  an  inventory  of 


III 


48 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  party  were  in  good  health  at  the  end  of  the  month.  Over  a  pound  and  a  tentli  of 
fresh  meat  daily  per  man  had  been  tiscd.  liconomy  in  fuel  had  been  practiced  during  '.he 
month  by  the  discontinuance  of  fires,  except  in  one  room,  1)et\veen  9  p.  m.  and  5  a.  m. ;  so 
that  six  tons  of  coal  remained  on  hand  at  the  end  of  the  month.  The  rotten  condition  of  the 
sea-ice  forbade  hauling  any  more  by  sledge  from  the  coal  mine. 

A  heavy  northeasterly  gale  occurred  on  the  24th,  during  which  the  wind  rose  to  a  velocity 
of  forty-two  miles  per  hour  [18.8'"  per  second].  The  first  rain  of  the  season  occurred  on  the 
26th,  but  the  first  month  of  summer  ended  with  a  touch  of  snow. 

The  harbor  ice  decreased  16.5  inches  [418.39"""]  in  thickness,  measuring  38.9  [998.08"""] 
on  July  I. 

The  mean  temperature  of  June  was  32.4°  [0.2°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  39.6°  [4.2°  C] 
on  the  17th,  and  a  minimum  of  22.7°  [ — 5.2°  C]  on  the  2d.  June  23  was  the  first  day  on 
which  the  temperature  did  not  fall  below  32°  [0°  C.]. 

JULY,  1883. 

On  July  I  Sergeant  Brainard  was  sent,  with  Kskimo  Christiansen  and  dog-sledge,  to  Cape 
Lieber  to  examine  the  channel  southward.  He  returned  on  the  3d,  and  reported  the  ice  to 
be  solid  both  north  and  south  of  Cape  Baird,  except  occasional  water-lanes  and  an  open  space 
aromid  Distant  Cape  and  Cape  Murchison.  The  new  ice  surrounding  the  heavy  floes,  how- 
ever, had  melted  or  broken  away,  and  he  was  confident  that  the  next  heavy  gale  would  break 
up  the  main  floe  in  Hall  Basin  and  Kennedy  Channel. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Sergeant  Brainard  Avere  sent  into  the  interior  on  July  1 1  for  a 
trip  towards  the  northwest  in  order  to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  the  physical  conditions  of  the 
country,  and  to  ascertain  definitely  the  topography  between  the  northeast  end  of  Lake  Hazen 
and  Lincoln  Bay.  They  returned  on  the  14th.  Privates  Biederbick  and  Henry  accompanied 
them  one  day  to  assist  in  carrying  their  packs.  Lieuteiio.ut  Lockwood  succeeded  in  pene- 
trating about  thirty  miles  to  the  northwest.  From  his  farthest  point  a  very  large  glacier 
could  be  seen  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  distant  from  them  to  the  northwest.  PNcecdingly 
bad  traveling  caused  them  to  return,  as  another  day's  journey  would  have  added  litt.'e  or 
nothing  to  their  information.  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  by  permission,  delayed  making  his 
report  until  he  could  finish  a  map  of  the  surroundings  of  Fort  Conger  in  conjunction  with 
this  trip.  Owing  to  his  death  the  map  and  report  were  not  made.  In  lieu  thereof.  Sergeant 
Brainard's  report,  the  materials  of  which  have  been  drawn  from  his  own  and  Lieutenant 
Lockwood's  journals,  forms  Appendix  No.  92. 

On  July  9,  having  been  informed  by  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  Octave  Pavy  of  his  deter- 
mination not  to  renew  his  contract  for  the  year,  v/liich  he  considered  as  ending  on  July  20, 
he  was  directed  to  turn  over,  before  lea\ing  the  United  States  service,  his  property,  official 
diary,  and  collections  in  natural  history,  to  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood.  These  articles  were 
to  be  delivered  packed,  boxed,  and  addressed  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer.  The  orders  to  Dr. 
Pavy,  and  the  correspondence  had  with  him  in  this  connection,  form  Appendices  Nos.  93,  94, 
and  95.*  On  July  19  Dr.  Pavy  not  only  positively  refused  to  transfer  his  diary,  but,  although 
his  contract  did  not  expire  until  the  succeding  day,  declared  that  he  was  out  of  the  service, 
that  my  orders  were  not  binding  upon  him,  and  he  refused  to  obey  the  formal  order  of  arrest 
until  a  file  of  men  was  called  to  enforce  my  authority.  Formal  charges  and  specifications 
were  furnished  him  on  the  19th,  previous  to  the  expiration  of  his  term  of  .service,  and  he  was 
held  in  service  to  await  the  action  of  the  War  Department  in  his  case.  The  charge  and 
correspondence  of  these  dates  form  Appendices  Nos.  96  to  kx),  inclusive. 

*'riie  directions  for  Dr.  Pavy  to  turn  over  his  diary  was  in  acco'dancc  with  tho  orders  of  thn  War  Department  organizing 
the  c  :pi'(lition,  which  left  me  no  discretion.     These  instructions  read: 

"  '^acli  member  m'  the  party  will  be  furnished  with  a  diary,  in  which  he  will  record  all  such  incideiUs  as  sjiecially  interest 
him.  'I'liis  diary  will  not  lie  open  t  >  inspection  until  delivered  to  the  Chief  Signal  f  iftlcer  for  his  sole  use  in  compiling  the  full 
record  of  the  expedition." 


it»# 


THE  TiADY  FRANKLFN  RAY  EXPEDITION. 


49 


Every  consideration  was  shown  Dr.  Pavy  in  connection  with  his  arrest ;  limits  of  a  mile 
in  any  direction  from  the  station  being  granted  him.  He  broke  his  arrest,  howe\  er,  on  the 
26th  of  July,  as  well  as  on  other  occasions,  bnt  owing  to  onr  isolated  condition  I  did  not  deem 
it  advisable  to  place  him  in  close  arrest.  It  shonld  be  said  to  the  credit  of  Dr.  Pavy's 
hnmanity  that  he  continned  to  give  medical  advice  to  snch  members  of  the  party  as  requested 
it,  although  when  jjlaced  in  arrest  he  positively  declared  that  he  would  not  render  such  service 
in  the  future  to  any  one  of  the  expedition.  I  deem  it  my  duty  to  call  attention  to  the  fact  that, 
contrary  to  Dr.  Pavy's  written  statement  that  his  diary  consisted  of  letters  to  his  wife,  a  trans- 
lation of  his  notes  in  the  office  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  since  my  return  shows  this  statement 
to  be  erroneous.  No  domestic  or  family  matters  were  alluded  to,  and  instead  of  letters  only 
disjointed  and  disconnected  data  without  sequence  of  dates  or  subjects  were  found,  which  were 
devoid  of  scientific  or  even  medical  comment. 

On  the  28th  the  launch  was  tried  under  steam  from  Dutch  Island  westward  in  the  harbor, 
and  everything  was  found  to  be  in  good  working  order.  Stores  and  supplies  were  gradually 
carried  to  Dutch  Island  during  the  month  for  the  purpose  of  facilitating  the  prospective  retreat 
by  boats. 

On  July  29  the  abandonment  of  the  station  was  announced  in  orders  (Appendix  No.  loi) 
to  take  place  on  August  S,  or  as  soon  thereafter  as  practicable. 

Sergeant  Brainard  was  directed  to  make  an  inventory  of  the  stores  on  hand  which  were 
to  be  abandoned,  a  list  of  which  forms  Appendix  No.  102.  Sergeant  Brainard  during  the  two 
years'  scr\'ice  at  Fort  Conger  has  served  as  orderly-sergeant  and  as  connnissarj-scrgeant  of  the 
expedition.  In  filling  these  thankless  and  difficult  positions  he  had  shown  as  much  tact, 
equable  temper,  and  good  judgment  as  he  had  energy  and  determination  in  the  field. 

It  was  with  great  reUictan:e  ihnt  I  decided  on  the  abandonment  alive  of  our  dogs.  In 
case  we  were  inisucccssful  in  c  1  luav  journey,  as  had  been  Hayes,  and  Kane  (in  his  first  trip), 
and  returned  to  Conger,  these  putient,  willing  laborers  would  be  indispensable  to  obtain  fuel 
and  meat.  Several  barrels  of  pork  were  itnheaded  and  all  the  barrels  of  oil  opened,  so  that  a 
couple  of  months'  food  could  be  reached  with  some  difficulty. 

The  ice  broke  up  gradually  during  the  month;  the  upper  part  of  Kennedy  Channel  broke 
on  the  24th.     The  harbor-ice  may  be  said  to  have  broken  up  on  July  30. 

On  Jtily  8  Sergeant  Cross  discovered  a  coal  seam  above  the  old  coal  mine  in  the  bed  of  the 
same  water-course.  It  had  long  been  evident  that  a  seam  of  such  kind  must  exist,  as  very 
large  pieces  of  coal  had  been  seen  at  many  points  a  long  distance  above  and  at  a  much  greater 
elevation  than  the  old  mine.  The  surface  of  coal  exposed  was  reported  to  be  about  twenty 
feet  [6""]  high  and  twenty  feet  [6'"]  long. 

The  month  was  not  a  good  one  for  game.  Only  three  hares,  two  geese,  thirteen  ducks, 
and  several  small  birds  were  procured.  Our  last  musk-meat  was  eaten  on  the  24th,  but  suffi- 
cient bones  remained  for  soup  until  August  i.  The  game  being  scarce,  but  one  meal  from 
game  was  had  during  the  last  week  of  the  month, 

Private  Long  was  discharged  for  expiration  of  term  of  service  on  the  23d,  and  re-enlisted 
on  the  24th. 

The  party  remained  in  excellent  health,  with  the  exception  of  Steward  Biederbick,  who 
was  troubled  with  rheumatism. 

On  the  30th  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  turned  over  to  me,  as  a  personal  contribution  for  the 
expedition,  two  large  tea-cans  full  of  lichens.  He  had  devoted  much  of  his  leisure  time  dur- 
ing the  two  years  in  searching  for  lichens  and  mosses,  and  this  collection  must  have  been  verj' 
complete  and  \'aluable.  He  took  a  strong  interest  in  making  it  complete,  and  showed  his  good- 
will by  his  tender  of  it.  Unfortunately  it  was  necessary  to  abandon  this  with  other  bulky  an-l 
weighty  collections. 

H,  Mis.  393 4  - 


I.!' 


50 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPKDITION. 


The  month  ended  in  southerly  gales,  which  did  ninch  to  break  up  the  harbor  ice  in  Hall 
Basin  and  Robeson  Channel.  Unfortunately  the  ice  in  Archer  Fiord  remained  fast,  and  no 
possible  chance  of  crossing  it  appeared.  Every  preparation,  however,  had  been  made  for  the 
abandonment  of  tlio  station  at  the  earliest  moment.  With  this  view,  five  thousand  pounds  of 
carefully  screened  and  selected  coal  had  been  bagged  and  cached  on  Dutch  Island,  for  use  in 
the  launch  during  the  retreat. 

The  mean  pressure  was  29.865  [758.6"""]  for  July,  and  the  mean  temperature  of  the  month 
was  37.2°  [2.9°  C],  with  a  very  high  maximum  of  52.4°  [11.3°  C]  on  the  12th,  and  a  mini- 
muni  of  28.8"  [— 1.8°  C]  on  the  6th. 

The  reduced  magnetical  observations  for  the  first  year  form  Appendix  No.  139^.  The 
other  magnetical  observations  have  been  transmitted  to  the  ITnited  States  Coast  and  Geo- 
detic vSurvey  for  redtiction  and  publication.  ^Meteorological  observations  for  the  two  years 
form  Appendix  No.  138. 

AUGUST,  1883. 

By  tliL  3d  the  records  of  the  expedition  had  been  packed  and  arranged  for  retreat.  These 
records,  weighing  about  fifty  jiounds,  were  packed  in  three  tin  boxes,  which  were  soldered  up 
and  thus  made  water-tight.  One  box,  to  be  in  my  charge,  contained  the  originals  of  reports 
and  field  journals,  which  had  been  filed  with  me  in  connection  with  the  various  work  of 
exploration,  and  also  my  completed  journals.  A  second  box  contained  the  original  sheets  of 
magnetical  and  meteorological  observations  and  other  official  papers.  The  third  box,  which 
was  to  be  in  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  especial  care,  contained  letter-press  copies  of  all  mag- 
netical and  meteorological  observations  and  records  of  the  pendulum  transits,  the  star-sheets, 
and  the  official  collection  of  plants. 

Of  necessity,  all  property,  papers,  and  records,  not  indispen.sable  to  the  history  of  the 
expedition,  were  abandoned,  as  well  as  all  private  property.  All  the  standard  thermometers 
were  luxed  carefully  for  transportation,  and  the  pendulum,  carefully  soldered  up  in  its  water- 
tight case,  was  also  boxed,  in  order  to  render  its  carriage  in  jn  uninnned  condition  certain. 

The  condition  of  the  party  for  the  coming  retreat  was  of  general  health  and  strength, 
despite  their  arduous  labors  for  two  years  amid  nuequaled  cold  and  darkness.  Of  the  .seven 
hundred  and  twent_ -one  days  spent  at  Fort  Conger,  two  hundred  and  sixty-eight  had  been 
marked  by  the  total  absence  of  the  sun.  On  two  hundred  and  sixty-two  days  one  or  more 
sledge  parties  had  been  \bsent  in  the  field,  on  journeys  entailing  from  two  to  sixty  days'  absence, 
and  some  three  thousand  miles  had  been  traveled  by  such  parties;  an  unequaled  latitude  to 
the  north  had  been  attained;  to  Greenland  over  a  hundred  miles  of  new  coast  had  been  udf^ed; 
and  to  the  westward  Grinnell  Land  had  been  crossed,  its  exterior  surveyed,  its  physical  geog- 
raphy determined,  and  the  contours  of  its  northern  half  fixed  with  considerable  certainty. 

This  geographical  work  had  been  done  without  disaster,  without  physical  injury  to  any 
one,  and  for  its  prosecution  no  part  of  the  scientific  work  for  which  the  expedition  was  formed 
had  been  neglected  or  abandoned.  It  seems  proper  to  make  these  statements  in  view  of  the 
many  assertions  that  all  Arctic  work  is  of  necessity  unduly  dangerous  or  fatal.  'J'he  pn^- 
gramnie  of  international  observations  had  been  carried  out  as  fully  as  instruments  and  circuui- 
stances  would  permit,  and  during  the  two  years  there  had,  on  an  average,  been  made  and 
recorded  daily  full  five  hundred  observations. 

A  selected  party  was  told  off  on  tiie  ist,  with  orders  to  be  in  readiness  for  prompt  departure 
for  Cape  Baird,  as  I  intended  sending  to  that  point  at  the  earliest  practicable  moment  the  launch, 
loaded  witli  coal,  provisions,  and  all  the  most  important  collections  and  records,  leaving  the 
main  party  to  follow,  when  ever\thing  important  had  been  transferred.  The  journal;^  of  the 
men  were,  as  a  rule,  turned  in,  sealed,  and  addressed  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer.     They  were 


THE  LADV  FRANKLIN   HAY  KXPKDITION. 


51 


packed  witli  forty-ci^lit  pIioto<j;raphic  ucjLjativcs  in  a  small  box,  which  weighed  about  seventy 
pounds.  A  supply  of  nu-dicinc-s,  the  list  of  wliich  Iiad  l)cen  furnished  by  Dr.  I'avy  early  in 
July,  was  carefull\"  ])acke(]  and  boxed  by  {Steward  IJiederbick. 

A  .small  fiord  seal  was  killed  by  lyieutenant  Kislinj.(bury  on  the  4th,  which  jjavc  us  ^re.sh 
meat  for  a  couple  of  days. 

The  ice  was  watched  closely  from  the  ist  of  the  month,  but  up  to  the  morninj;  of  the  9th 
no  possible  chance  of  crossinj^  Archer  Fiord  presented  itself.  About  10  o'clock  a.  m.  the  ice  in 
Archer  Fiord,  thouj;;h  not  navijjable,  from  its  movements  appeared  to  presaj;je  more  favorable 
conditions,  and,  in  order  to  avail  myself  of  any  possible  changes,  the  station  was  ordered  to 
be  abandoned  at  1  p.  ni.  of  that  date.  The  launch  left  Dutch  Island  at  2.30  p.  m.  and  ran  to 
Proteus  Point,  meeting  the  small  boat  from  the  station,  which  brought  our  dinner  partly  cooked. 

The  eastern  entrance  being  completely  blocked  with  ice,  we.were  compelled  to  attcnjpt 
a  western  passage,  and  with  great  difficulty  reached  .Sun  Peninsula,  at  the  western  entrance, 
about  10  p.  m.  The  passage  acro.ss  the  strait  appearing  possible,  we  started  into  Archer  Fiord 
about  midnight,  but  the  ice  commencing  to  move  towards  the  shore  the  launch  was  badly 
nipped,  and  was  only  saved  from  loss  by  strenuous  exertions.  On  the  morning  of  the  10th,  at 
the  turn  of  the  tide,  we  were  able  to  run  southward  into  Archer  Fiord  and  pass  around  the 
heavy  ice  which  separated  us  from  Cape  Raird.  A  heavy  gale  prevailing  made  it  impossible 
to  proceed  southward  that  evening,  but  everything  was  put  in  readiness  for  instant  move.  A 
cairn  was  erected  at  Cape  Baird,  in  which  was  deposited  a  record  (Appendix  No.  104). 

On  leaving  Cape  Baird  we  had  fift}-five  hundred  pounds  of  coal  and  abt)Ut  fifty  days  of 
provisions,  with  small  caches  at  Carl  Ritter  Bay  and  Cape  Collinson,  which  were  relied  on  to 
carry  us  to  Dobbin  Bay,  where  I  at  least  counted  on  a  vessel.  Our  means  of  transportation 
were  the  steam-launch,  the  whale-boat  Nai-i'/ia/,  the  Fjiglish  ice-boat  Bcauviont^  the  English 
boat  Valorous^  with  a  small  Whitehall  boat  for  special  use.  The  crews  of  the  three  boats 
were  told  off,  so  that  each  would  know  where  he  belonged  in  case  of  an  accident  to  the  launch. 

Wc  left  Cape  Baird  at  11. 15  p.  m.  of  August  9,  and  were  delayed  between  Capes  Lieber 
and  Cracroft  nearly  eight  hours,  by  a  huge  paleocrystic  floe,  which,  by  estimate,  was  over 
fifteen  miles  long.  -Passing  southward  the  morning  of  August  11,  a  depot  of  corn-beef  at 
Cape  Cracroft  was  taken  up  by  the  small  boat,  but  one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds  of  bread 
were  left  for  lack  of  room,  the  launch  and  boat  being  badly  crowded.  The  weather  was  ex- 
ceedingly foggy  during  the  day,  so  that  we  moved  southward  .slowly  and  with  great  difficulty. 
The  fog  was  so  dense  in  the  afternoon  that  for  a  time  we  were  uncertain  of  our  position,  and 
were  obliged  to  run  to  tlie  shore  and  follow  it  southward.  Several  shoal  places  were  found 
which  interfered  with  oi*r  progress,  and  near  midnight  we  stopped,  as  I  felt  that  the  distance 
made  was  not  commensurate  with  the  coal  consumed.  The  point  where  we  stopped  later 
proved  to  be  some  five  miles  north  of  Carl  Ritter  Bay. 

On  the  morning  of  the  I2th,  while  the  party  was  j^reparing  breakfast,  the  launch  was 
allowed  to  touch  the  shore  on  a  falling  tide  and  was  grounded.  Careful  instructions  had  been 
given  to  avoid  this.  Sergeant  Cross,  who  was  specially  in  charge  of  the  launch,  was  evidently 
intoxicated,  probably  from  the  fuel  alcohol.  It  was  onl)-  by  the  most  cnei  jjetic  and  laborious 
exertions  that  the  launch  was  finally  released,  after  a  loss  of  two  hoars'  time. 

The  daj's  run  was  a  slow  and  difficult  one,  owing  to  tiie  large  quantity  of  ice  and  the 
prevalence  of  foggy  weather.  Serious  nips  were  frequently  threatened,  and  at  times  we  were 
obliged  to  draw  the  snuiU  boats  Vip  on  the  floe.  In  consequence  of  the  unfavorable  conditions 
we  were  obliged  to  wait  .some  distance  above  Carl  Ritter  Bay  rmtil  the  weatlier  cleared,  when 
we  ran  south  and  picked  uji  the  cache  of  bread  and  meat  at  Carl  Ritter  Bay.  To  avoid  a 
long  detour  along  the  shores  of  this  bay  I  ran  direct  from  the  cache  to  Cape  Von  Buch,  which 
was  passed  without  difficuUj', 


Ih 


52 


TEIE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPKDITK)??. 


Ii 


The  launch  was  stopped  about  2  a.  iii.  of  the  I3tli,  in  latitude  80°  52',  by  an  apparently 
unbroken  pack  of  very  lar}j;e  floes.  A  jjood  harbor  was  found  for  the  boats,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  camp  until  noon,  owing  to  the  very  unfavorable  reports  of  the  reconnoiteriug  parties.  At 
noon  the  tide  loosened  up  the  ice  a  ver\'  little,  but  progress  being  possible  I  started  south, 
despite  tlie  snow  and  foggy  weather,  and  ran  for  three  hours  until  forced  by  repeated  nips  to 
camp.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  during  the  run,  shot  a  small  harbor-seal  which  was  cooked 
for  supper  and  relished  by  all. 

During  this  run  Sergeant  Cross  was  insubordinate  and  disrespectful  and  everything  went 
wrong  with  the  launch.  His  .services  as  engitieer  being  thought  indispensable,  prevented  any 
further  action  than  cautious  and  well-considered  reprimands. 

Our  position  was  then  80°  44'  N.,  about  68°  W.,  some  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  south  of 
Carl  Ritter  Bay.  A  severe  northeasterly  gale  packed  the  straits  with  ice,  and  the  storm  being 
followed  by  low  temperatures  new  ice  formed  to  such  an  extent  as  to  delay  us  at  that  point 
until  the  evening  of  the  i8th. 

Lieutenant  Ki.'ilirgbury  and  Eskimo  Christiansen  went  hunting  inland,  without  success, 
during  our  stay.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  reported  the  existence  at  that  point  of  a  narrow, 
desolate  valley,  devoid  of  vegetation,  which  ran  at  right  angles  with  the  coast  for  a  couple 
of  miles,  and  then,  turning  at  right  angles,  trended  to  the  northeast  parallel  to  the  coast  for  a 
distance  of  seven  or  eight  miles.  Two  small  permanent  lakes  were  passed,  and  a  depression, 
indicating  a  third  large  lake,  was  seen.  A  small  stream,  probably  springing  from  the  inland 
ice-cap,  fed  and  connected  the  lakes  and  then  drained  them  into  Kennedy  Channel  near  our 
camp.  I  have  attached  Lieutenant  Kisliugbury's  name  to  the  valley.  The  shore  had  been 
closely  followed  since  leaving  Carl  Ritter  Bay,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  gale  the  launch  was 
at  the  ice-foot.  Owing  to  low  temperatures,  on  the  15th,  as  a  matter  of  precaution  against 
being  frozen  in,  I  moved  the  launch  and  boats  with  great  difficulty  a  mile  or  two  from  the 
shore,  within  some  two  hundred  yards  [183'"]  of  the  moving  pack,  to  a  point,  however,  where 
they  would  be  fully  protected  from  the  grounded  bergs. 

The  immilitary  and  insubordinate  conduct  of  vSergeant  Cross,  the  engineer  of  the  launch, 
culminated  at  this  time.  When  the  launch  was  beset  in  the  worst  kind  of  ice  possible,  my 
orders  to  the  engineer  were  so  indefinitely  carried  out  as  to  endanger  the  safety  of  the  boat. 
At  the  most  critical  junction  I  learned  that  Sergeant  Cro.ss  was  intoxicated,  probably  from  fiu^l- 
alcohol,  a  fact  which  escaped  my  notice  as  he  was  hidden  from  view  by  the  covering  of  the 
launch.  I  instantl}-  relieved  him  from  duty,  and  substituted  Private  Frederick  as  engineer  in 
his  place.  The  critical  and  trying  situation"  of  the  party  made  such  conduct  as  Cross's  ex- 
tremely reprehensible,  but  the  circumstances  permitted  none  of  the  usual  methods  of  dis- 
cipline. This  misbehavior  was  in  keeping  with  Sergeant  Cross's  previous  and  subsequent 
propensity  to  appropriate  rum  or  alcohol  whenever  possible. 

Private  Frederick  on  assuming  charge  reported  that  the  boiler  was  in  such  condition  that 
if  it  had  been  neglected  a  few  minutes  longer  it  would  have  become  entirely  useless,  e\tn  if 
it  had  not  exploded. 

The  next  day  the  boats  were  moved  as  far  as  possible  towards  open  water.  The  precau- 
tion of  quitting  the  shore  was  a  wise  one,  for  when  the  northeasterly  gale  ceased  young  ice 
had  formed  to  such  an  extent  inshore  that  it  would  have  been  impossible  ever  to  have  extri- 
cated the  launch. 

During  our  stay  at  that  point  the  temperature  was  observed  above  32°  [0°  C]  but  once, 
and  sank  as  low  as  23.2"  [ — 4.9°  C],  undoubtedly  an  unparalleled  low  temperature  for  the 
17th  of  August. 

On  the  i8ththe  condition  of  the  party  was  critical.  The  low  temperatures,  heavy  snows, 
and  inactive  condition  had  been  exceedingly  trying,  physically  and  morally,  to  the  party,  who 
were  sheltered  only  by  the  canvas  of  the  boat.     On  that  afternoon,  the  pressure  of  tlie  moving 


!SS»-«»««»* 


TIIK  LADY  KUANKLIN  HAY   KXI'KDITION, 


53 


pack  against  the  fast  ice  (limiiiishinjj;  somewhat,  I  (kcided  to  try  and  rcacli  the  moving  ice, 
preferriiijr  to  take  the  chances  of  makinjf  onr  way  alonj;  tlie  niovinj^  pack  to  reniaininj^  ice- 
bound in  tliat  bay.  Several  hours'  labor  had  no  results,  as  the  one  hundred  and  Hfty  yards  [  1 37'"] 
of  ice  between  the  launch  and  the  niovinjf  pack  consisted  of  larj^e  floes  cemented  together 
by  new  ice,  then  two  or  three  inches  [50.8"""  or  76.2"""]  thick.  Our  efforts  were  renewed  a 
few  hours  later,  without  much  hope  of  success  ;  but  ultimately,  by  extraordinary  exertions, 
the  launch  and  the  boats  were  at  the  outer  edge  of  the  fast  ice  before  midnight. 

We  met  much  moving  ice,  but  h.ad  a  fine  run  until  about  4  a.  m.  of  the  19th,  when, 
stopped  by  adense,  heavy  pack,  a  secure  harbor  was  found  l)etwcen  two  grounded  bergs.  At 
that  point  the  tides  were  very  heavy,  evidently  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  [3.7"'  to  4.6'"]  in  the 
springs.  We  were  then  about  eleven  miles  mntheast  of  Cape  Lawrence,  aiul,  an  opportunity 
oiTering  at  the  turn  of  the  tide,  about  three-qtiarters  of  an  hour's  run  was  made  without 
nuich  advantage ;  and  to  avoid  wasting  coal,  there  being  much  ice,  we  stopped  seven  miles 
north  of  Cape  Lawrence  to  await  more  favorable  conditions.  About  9  p.  m.,  being  Sunday, 
the  psalms  of  the  day  w^re  read,  and  then  Sergeant  Urainard  and  Eskimo  Christiansen  were 
sent  along  the  coast  as  far  as  Cape  lyawrencc  in  order  to  examine  the  pack  southward,  which 
frcMU  our  position  seemed  den.se  and  impracticable.  They  were  accompanied  by  Dr.  Pavy,  at 
his  own  recpiest. 

At  the  turn  of  the  tide  on  August  20,  some  open  water  showing  up,  and  a  heavy  south- 
west wind  prevailing,  I  immediately  started  south  with  the  boats  and  took  up  Sergeant 
Brainard  with  his  party  three  miles  north  of  the  cape.  As  he  reported  an  impenetrable  pack 
extending  from  the  very  point  of  Cape  Lawrence  eastward  to  Cape  Jackson,  with  no  water  in 
sight,  I  thought  it  best  to  make  a  very  secure  harbor  which  Sergeant  Brainard  had  observed 
a  couple  of  miles  north  of  the  cape.  While  a  meal  was  being  prepared  I  visited  Cape  Law- 
rence, and  from  an  elevation  of  about  two  or  three  hundred  feet  [61'"  or  91'"]  saw  much  water 
with  broad  lanes  opening  up  in  the  midst  of  the  heavy  ice  .southeast  and  south,  while  to  the 
southwest  Rawlings  Bay  was  evidently,  though  slowly,  clearing  under  the  influence  of  the 
southwest  wind.  The  launch  started  immediately,  but,  after  rounding  Cape  Lawrence  and 
running  a  couple  of  miles  into  Rawlings  Bay,  I  was  obliged  to  make  the  shore,  partly  on 
account  of  the  strong  adverse  wind  and  tide,  but  more  especially  owing  to  the  dense  fog  over 
the  surface  of  the  bay.  I  walked  up  on  the  north  side  of  Rawlings  Bay  to  the  point  over- 
looking Radmore  Harbor,  and  from  a  considerable  elevation  saw  an  immense  paleocrystic 
floe  of  many  miles  extent  moving  out  of  the  bay,  leaving  clear  water  behind  it,  between  the 
northern  shore  and  Cape  Joseph  Good.  I  hastened  back  to  the  launch  to  find  her  just 
grounded,  although  exact  and  stringent  orders  had  been  given  to  keep  her  clear,  and  two 
men  had  been  detailed  for  <.hat  specific  purpose.  The  strength  of  the  entire  party  was  inad- 
equate to  clear  her,  and  we  were  delayed  nearly  six  hours  for  the  next  tide.  In  extenuation 
of  the  failure  of  the  watchmen,  it  should  be  noted  that  the  range  of  this  tide  was  between 
thirteen  and  foivrteen  feet  [3.962"'  and  4.267'"],  and  that  at  times  the  water  must  have  fallen 
about  an  inch  [25.4"'"']  a  mintite.  In  1876,  in  this  same  bay,  and  under  similar  circumstances, 
H.  M.  S.  Alert,  crowded  near  shore  by  a  floe,  was  caught  by  a  similarly  falling  tide. 

At  Rawlings  Bay  ivory  gulls  and  several  seals  were  seen,  and  traces  of  the  fox  and  musk-ox, 
that  of  the  latter  being  very  old.  Vegetation  along  the  northern  shore  of  the  bay  was  very 
luxuriant  for  the  latitude,  and  resembled  very  closely  that  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Conger. 
Just  north  of  Cape  Lawrence  two  small  glaciers  were  seen  oy  Sergeant  Brainard,  when  trav-  < 
cling  along  the  .shore,  and  a  skeleton  of  a  yotnig  reindeer  was  found,  which  Christiansen 
thought  had  been  dead  about  two  years.  I  hazard  the  opinion  that  a  detailed  examination 
would  show  the  vicinity  of  Radmore  Harbor  to  be  the  most  northerly  point  frequented  by 
the  reindeer  of  Grinnell  Land.  The  vegetation  of  the  adjacent  valleys  is  sufficiently  lux- 
uriant for  reindeer  and  musk-oxen,  and  in  1876  Major  Feilden,  R.  A.,  discovered  near  Rad- 
more Harbor  a  recently  picked  skeleton  of  a  reindeer. 


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Corporation 


33  WKT  MAIN  STRUT 
WIMTIR.N.Y.  MSM 

(716)I72-4S03 


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54 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


'     I 


The  launcli  was  afloat  at  8. 30  p.  in. ,  and  the  bay  was  crossed  in  two  honrs.  Clear  water 
was  found  by  a  long  detour  inward,  which  carried  us  nearly  up  to  the  point  behind  whicli 
Radmore  Harbor  is  situated.  A  dense  fog  and  a  strong  adverse  tide  drove  us  just  south  ot 
Cape  Joseph  Good  to  an  insecure  harbor;  but  our  situation  was  materially  improved  later,  as 
opportunity  offered,  by  moving  our  anchorage  a  short  distance  south.  At  the  first  harbor,  we 
came  near  having  a  bad  nip  from  an  immense  paleocrj-stic  floe,  which,  moving  northward,  was 
set  well  in  toward  shore  by  the  heavj'  tide  and  pressure  of  the  dense  pack  which  filled  the 
straits.  At  the  second  harbor,  despite  our  exertions  and  owing  to  the  very  heavy  tide,  the 
launch  grounded  a  short  time  at  extreme  low  water. 

The  Whitehall  boat  was  here  broken  up  and  used  for  fuel.  She  had  leaked  badh-,  been 
a  heavy  drag,  and  was  only  of  occasional  use.  She  had  been  kept  by  me,  contrar\'  to  advice, 
until  we  should  have  crossed  Rawlings  Bay.  For  the  previous  few  days  it  had  been  necessary 
to  bail  her  hourly.  She  was  so  easily  handled  by  two  men,  however,  that  I  Lad  thought 
it  important  to  keep  her  as  long  as  possible.  After  the  breaking  up  of  the  lx)at  the  kayak 
remained,  with  which  either  Eskimo  would  be  able  to  perform  services  previously  attended 
to  by  the  use  of  the  boat. 

Sergeant  Jewell  was  sent  along  shore  to  Cape  Wilkes  to  examine  the  ice.  On  his  return 
he  reported  open  water  to  the  south  in  Kane  Sea,  and  also  on  the  south  side  of  Richardson 
Bay.  Shortly  after  an  oppoitunit}-  of  reaching  Cape  Wilkes  presented  itself.  Water  opened 
up  to  the  next  point  of  land,  and  the  entire  pack,  under  the  influence  of  the  southwest  wind, 
moved  slowly  and  steadily  offshore.  We  had,  however,  gone  scarcely  half  a  mile  when  the 
main  pack  set  violently  in  towards  shore  and  nearly  destroyed  the  launch  and  boats.  There 
was  scarcely  any  wind  at  the  time,  and  the  movement  of  the  ice  probably  resulted  from  tidal 
currents,  which  doubtless  are  ver>-  marked  in  the  season  of  spring  tides  in  that  vicinity  of  the 
junction  of  northern  and  southern  tides.  It  being  low  tide  the  boats  caught  between  the 
moving  pack  and  the  perpendicular  ice-foot,  some  ten  feet  [3"']  in  height.  There  were  no 
available  breaks  in  the  ice-foot  where  we  could  seek  shelter,  and,  in  consequence,  the  launch 
was  jammed  and  we  barely  escaped  losing  her.  The  other  boats  were  slightly  injured,  but  to 
no  material  extent,  as  the\-  leaked  no  more  after  the  nip  than  before,  though  they  had  been 
necessarily  much  strained.  One  of  the  boats  was  pulled  out  on  the  moving  pack,  but  the 
other  two  were  finally  secured  along  the  ice-foot. 

During  this  severe  and  unexpected  nip  the  entire  attention  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and 
myself  was  necessarily  devoted  to  the  launch,  the  most  important  boat,  leaving  the  others 
to  .secure  their  own  safety.  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Rice  and  Private  Connell,  who  were  in 
charge  of  the  respective  boats,  justified  the  confidence  placed  in  them  by  their  excellent  conduct. 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  of  material  assistance  to  me  in  coiniection  with  the  launch. 

By  watching  closely  and  taking  chances  I  managed,  despite  the  heavy  pack  and  great 
jam  of  ice,  to  get  into  the  extreme  northeast  point  of  Richardson  Bay  just  after  noon  (August 
22),  and  with  only  a  couple  of  hours'  delay  succeeded  in  crossing  the  bay,  though  with  great 
difficulty.  Very  much  to  my  disinclination  I  was  obliged  to  make  a  long  detour  westward 
into  the  bay,  as  the  passage  through  the  moving  pack  to  the  southerly  point  of  the  bay  would 
have  been  extremely  hazardous  if  not  impossible.  , 

We  found  in  crossing  near  the  head  of  the  bay  that  young  ice  had  formed  to^such  an 
extent  as  to  cement  together  the  small  floes,  and  was  thus  sufficiently  thick  to  prevent  at  times 
the  progress  of  the  launch,  even  when  the  boats  were  cast  off.  The  difficulty  of  penetrating 
young  ice  was  evidenced  by  our  experience  in  passing  through  three  hundred  yards  [274'"]  at 
one  point,  where  it  required  an  hour's  efforts  and  entailed  at  times  the  necessity  of  dropping  all 
the  boats.  It  was  a  useful  experience,  and  in  that  as  in  many  other  matters  only  experience 
is  of  value.  On  reaching  the  south  side  of  Richardson  Bay  it  wasdiflicult  to  determine  which 
point  was  Cape  Collinsou.     In  order  to  make  certain  of  the  English  cache  the  nearest  laud 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


55 


was  made,  and  the  coast  was  searched  to  the  nearest  point  to  the  westward  by  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury  and  Private  Henry,  while  others  examined  the  first  point  east.  No  sign  of  the 
cache  was  found  at  either.  Private  Henry  picked  up  to  the  northwest  a  small  piece  of  pine 
wootl,  and  found  ancient  traces  of  Eskimo. 

While  we  were  endeavoring  to  reach  Cape  Collinson,  the  flowing  tide  brought  from  the 
north  .such  immense  quantities  of  heavy  ice  that  we  were  driven  to  harbor  in  a  small  bay  near 
a  wasted  ice-foot  twelve  feet  [3. 7'"]  high,  where  we  were  .sheltered  by  three  large  grounded  floe- 
bergs.  From  that  point  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Jewell,  sent  out  to  .search  the  coast,  succeeded 
in  discovering  the  English  cache,  from  whicli  all  the  rum  and  a  barrel  of  bread  was  mi.ssing, 
as  well  as  the  tobacco,  sugar,  and  tea. 

We  were  unable  on  account  of  heavy  and  jammed  ice  to  move  until  the  change  of  the  tide, 
about  2  a.  m.  of  August  22.  The  tide  being  in  the  springs  rose  .some  fourteen  feet  [4.3"'],  which 
enabled  us  to  get  the  small  boats  inside  the  ice-foot,  and  thus  protect  them  from  heavy  ice, 
but  the  launch,  of  necessity,  remained  oi.tside.  The  three  grounded  floe-bergs  which  had 
been  relied  on  for  protection  floated  at  high  tide  and  came  near  destroying  the  launch.  As 
soon  as  the  falling  tide  grounded  the  bergs,  and  the  pressure  of  the  heavy  pack  was  some- 
what relieved,  we  ran  eastward  to  Cape  Collinson,  and  about  5  a.  m.  took  up  the  cache.  It 
consisted  of  two  hujidred  and  forty  rations  of  meat,  stearine,  alcohol,  salt,  pepper,  onion-pow- 
der, and  one  hundred-  and  twenty  rations  of  bread. 

When  rounding  Cape  Collinson  a  strong  southwest  wind  was  met,  which  with  an  adverse 
ebbing  tide  forced  the  launch  to  harbor.  In  making  shore  the  collar  of  the  feed-pipe,  which 
had  several  times  before  been  injured,  was  again  broken.  This  necessitated  a  delay  of  two 
hours,  which  stay  was  improved  by  cooking  a  warm  breakfast. 

During  our  stay  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  visited  a  point  whence  he  was  able  to  look  into 
Joiner  Bay,  the  chances  of  crossing  which  he  reported  to  be  unfavorable  owing  to  the  great 
amount  of  ice.  Snow,  fog,  and  winjj  in  the  mean  time  prevailed,  but  during  a  temporary 
clearing  up  I  started  south  and  determined  to  try  the  channel  by  the  outside  passage  through 
the  pack.  This  dangerous  attempt  proved  successful,  though  fog  set  in  during  the  run. 
About  II  a.  m.  we  reached  an  excellent  harbor  just  north  of  Cape  McClintock  where  the  boats 
were  moored  until  the  weather  should  clear  and  the  ice  conditions  improve. 

From  the  summit  of  the  grounded  bergs  it  was  noticed  that  even  during  the  rising  tide 
the  strong  southwest  wind  was  setting  large  quantities  of  ice  out  from  Scoresby  Bay,  and  as 
soon  as  the  wind  lulled  slightly,  I  ran  into  Scoresby  Bay  a  couple  of  miles  and  reconnoitered 
from  an  adjacent  hill.  I  discovered  that  the  bay  was  full  of  immense  floes,  but  could  be  ciossed 
by  running  inland.  A  long  detour  was  necessary,  but  fortunately  clear  water  was  found  the 
entire  distance,  and  I  succeeded  about  6  p.  m.  August  22  in  reaching  a  point  just  south  of  Cape 
Norton  Shaw,  where  an  immense  quantity  of  pack  slush-ice,  with  occasional  pancakes,  made 
such  a  tremendous  jam  as  prevented  further  progress. 

The  water  opened  a  little  to  the  south  once,  but  a  paleocrj'sti?  floe  moved  in  just  ahead 
of  us,  and,  jamming  between  some  grounded  floe-bergs  and  the  shore,  cut  us  off  from  the 
south.  I  later  made  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  but  poor  shelter  for  the  boats  obliged  me 
to  give  way  several  hundred  ySrds  to  await  further  developments.  My  astronomer  there 
got  an  observation  which  he  thought  the  meridian,  and  whicli  made  our  latitude  79°  51', 
two  miles  south  of  my  reckoning.  It  transpired  later,  however,  that  the  sun  was  off"  the 
meridian,  and  that  my  reckoning  was  correct. 

About  noon  the  jwck  commenced  moving  .slowly  inshore,  and  I  was  obliged  to  scatter 
the  boats  for  shelter.  P*or  a  time  we  were  jammed  against  the  ice-foot  by  the  pack,  with 
prospects  to  the  .southward  very  unfavorable  on  accoinit  of  the  large  quantity  of  den.sely  packed 
rubble  and  small  ice,  which  had  no  motion  during  the  change  of  the  tide.     It  seemed  possible 


56 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


to  me  then  as  we  were  near  Cape  Frazer,  where  the  tides  from  the  north  and  south  meet,  that 
this  jam  was  caused  by  its  location  with  reference  to  the  tides. 

My  journal  at  that  time  shows  my  uneasiness  that  no  ship  had  been  sijjhted,  and  that  I 
realized  our  unenviable  position  if  none  was  found  at  Capq  Hawks,  with  late  season,  but  little 
fuel,  and  an  uncertain  suppK'  of  food. 

Shortly  after  high  water,  at  the  first  chance  of  progress,  I  started  south  and  made  an 
hour's  run  over  a  tortuous  course,  and  was  finally  beset  in  a  pack  of  sludge-ice,  with  jjn 
occasional  small  pan-cake,  while  making  shore  a  half  mile  distant.  During  this  ebbing  tide 
we  drifted  at  first  northeastward  a  little  as  would  be  natural  from  a  tide  flowing  from  the  Polar 
Sea ;  but  a  short  time  afterwards  the  drifting  was  changed  to  the  south  by  an  immense  floe- 
berg  which  was  carried  south  evidently  by  an  under-current.  It  was  probably  the  drift  of 
this  floe  which  packed  the  sludge-ice  in  which  we  were  beset.  We  reached  a  small  pancake 
floe,  where  the  boats  were  entered,  to  be  drawn  up  at  a  moment's  notice.  The  floe-berg,  which 
at  first  was  nearly  a  mile  north  of  us,  was  only  some  two  hundred  yards  [182.9'"]  distant  at 
slackwater.  On  the  morning  of  the  24th  we  succeeded  in  reaching  the  ice-foot,  where  a  very 
poor  shelter  was  found,  affording  protection  for  only  two  boats.  About  9  a.  m.  a  northeasterly 
gale  set  in,  when  we  juicceeded,  by  extraordinary  exertions  and  with  great  diflicnlty,  in  moving 
the  launch  and  one  boat  five  hundred  yards  [457.2"']  to  the  .south,  where  an  excellent  shel- 
ter was  obtained,  which  had  been  inaccessible  at  the  time  of  our  first  reaching  the  ice-foot. 
This  movement  of  the  boats  was  made  in  a  dense  pack,  which,  driven  inward  by  the  heavy 
wind,  ground  along  the  ice-foot,  and  which  came  near  utterly  destroying  our  boats.  Two 
boats  being  in  a  somewhat  sheltered  position  remained  behind  owing  to  the  great  danger 
attending  any  movetnent  under  such  conditions.  The  boats  which  took  the  chances  and 
moved  fared  better,  however,  than  those  left  behind,  which  received  some  slight  injuries  that 
were  easily  repaired.  The  general  opinion  was  that  we  had  escaped  easily  in  not  losing  some 
of  the  Ijoats.  Kog  varied  by  occasional  snow  .set  in,  wetting  everything  and  making  the  con- 
dition of  the  party  thoroughly  uncomfortable. 

Sergeant  Jewell  was  sent  along  the  coast  to  Cape  Frazer,  and  on  his  return  reported 
unfavorable  conditions  to  the  southward,  the  ice  being  heavily  packed  as  far  as  he  could  see. 

The  tides  were  exceedingly  heavy  near  Cape  Frazer  and  caused  me  great  anxiety  during 
our  enforced  stay,  which,  owing  10  the  unfavorable  condition  of  the  weather,  was  for  the  rest 
of  the  24th. 

The  ice  loosened  somewhat  just  after  the  turn  of  the  tide  on  the  moining  of  the  25th,  and 
permitted  an  hour's  run  over  a  very  crooked  route,  as  the  heavy  pack  obliged  me  to  closely 
follow  the  ice-foot.  Stopped  by  ice  for  two  hours,  I  succeeded  about  9  a.  m.  in  making  a  little 
southing,  and  moored  to  a  flat-top  floe-berg  which  was  grounded  a  mile  from  the  shore.  In 
this  run  the  collar  of  the  feed-pipe  was  again  broken,  and  was  with  great  diflficulty  repaired 
by  the  engineer.  Private  Frederick.  The  boiler  put  in  at  St.  John's  was  unfortunately 
insecurely  fastened  in  -he  bottom  of  the  boat,  and,  consequently,  acted  like  a  ram  against  the 
engine  when  any  direct  shock  came. 

Christiansen  shot  a  seal  that  morning,  which  was  a  welcome  addition  to  our  supplies. 
Our  noon  okservation  placed  us  in  79°  45',  just  north  of  Cape  Frazer. 

A  strong  southwest  wind  set  a  number  of  large  floes  against  our  grounded  berg  and  on  the 
rising  tide  it  floated  it  off" to  the  northeast,  and  compelled  ns  to  seek  shelter  behind  some  grounded 
bergs  near  shore.  I  waited  for  eight  hours,  under  the  cover  of  bergs,  patiently  watching  for  a 
large  lane  of  open  water,  which,  under  the  influence  of  strong  southwesterly  winds,  made  slowly 
to  the  north  all  that  time.  At  6  p.  m.,  seeing  that  the  shore  ice  was  crowding  in,  and,  owing 
to  the  increased  foggiuess,  might  finally  cut  us  ofl"  from  a  run,  I  determined  to  force  our  way 
through  a  mile  of  moving  pack  to  ojien  water,  though  sensible  of  the  danger  of  besctmeut. 
With  great  difficulty  the  launch  succeeded  in  reaching  clear  water,  and  ran  southward  for 


Mm 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXrEDITION. 


57 


a  short  time  till  a  dense  fojj  drove  tis  to  shore  at  Hayes  Point,  north  of  several  j^roundcd  floes. 
During  the  preparation  of  supper  I  ascertained  •  from  personal  observations  that  open  water 
prevailed  a  half  mile  south.  The  fog  breaking  ver}-  slightly  an  hour  later  I  ventured  out 
into  the  strait,  around  a  number  of  grounded  hergs,  and  reached  good  water.  The  fog 
remained  thick,  but  during  occasional  l>reaks  the  tops  of  Cape  Louis  Na])oleon  and  adjacent 
mountains  presented  them.selvcs,  and  enabled  me  to  run  until  lo  p.  m.  At  that  time  I  moored 
to  an  immense  grounded  iceberg,  from  the  summit  of  which  a  good  view  to  the  southward 
was  had  during  a  break  in  the  fog.  The  ice  in  that  quarter  consisted  of  verj-  large  floes  and 
numerous  lanes.  It  offered  a  perfect  passage  for  an  Arctic  vessel,  but  with  my  small  launch, 
the  prevalence  of  the  fog,  and  our  pro.\imity  to  Cajx;  Hawks  I  did  not  think  it  advisable  to 
take  any  chances.  This  grounded  floe  was  about  a  mile  from  land,  and  running  to  the  shore 
I  found  us  cut  oflf  from  open  water,  near  Cape  Napoleon,  by  a  miserable  corner  of  a  grounded 
lierg,  which  laid  again.st  the  ice-foot.  I  set  the  party  to  work  to  try  to  cut  away  this  barrier, 
which  was  only  twelve  feet  [3.658"']  across  and  three  feet  [.914'"]  thick,  in  the  hopes  that  the 
rising  tide  would  permit  an  inside  passage.  In  the  meantime  Sergeant  Jewell  and  two  men 
were  sent  on  to  Cape  Napoleon  with  orders  to  look  into  Dobbin  Ray,  where  I  hoped  for  a 
vessel. 

At  3  a.  m.  on  the  26th  the  watch -sergeant  awakened  me  with  the  report  that  the  changing 
tide  had  opened  the  ice,  so  that  an  outside  route  was  practicable  to  Cape  NajMjleon.  We  got 
under  way  as  soon  as  possible  and  reached  Cape  Louis  Napoleon  about  4. 15  a.  m.,  having 
picked  up  Sergeant  Jewell  and  his  party  en  route.  He  reported  that  owing  to  heavy  fog 
Ca]x;  Hawks  had  not  been  seen,  and  that  Dobbin  Bay,  to  the  southwest  of  Cape  Naix)leon,  was 
filled  with  large  floes  separated  by  occasional  lanes  of  water. 

The  dense  fog  compelled  me  to  remain  at  Cape  Napoleon  until  10  a.  m.,  when  a  large 
amount  of  open  water,  seen  during  breaks  in  the  fog,  induced  nie  to  attempt  an  outside  passage 
to  Cape  Hawk.s.  The  fog  was  exceedingly  thick  and  the  run  was  made  under  difficult  and 
dangerous  circumstances,  but  we  finally  reached  the  English  cache  near  Cape  Hawks  about 
2. 15  p.  m.,  having  run  in  from  Kane  Sea  to  the  northward  of  Washington  Irving  Island.  The 
route  from  Cape  Napoleon  had  been  a  very  tortuous  one  owing  to  the  ice,  and  probably 
involved  traveling  twice  the  direct  distance. 

Sergeant  Rice,  with  the  whale-boat,  was  dropped  as  we  passed  Washington  Irving  Island, 
with  directions  to  examine  the  cairn,  bring  in  any  records  found,  and  leave  a  notice  of  our 
ujovements.  He  was  also  specially  directed  to  note  and  report  on  the  condition  of  the  ice  to 
the  southward.  On  his  return  he  reported  that  the  cairn  had  not  been  touched  since  o\n 
visit  in  1881.  He  left  a  brief  record,  which  .set  forth  our  movements  past  and  contemplated. 
He  reported  the  ice  to  the  southward,  as  far  as  the  eye  coiild  reach  from  the  summit  of  Wash- 
ington Ir\'ing  I.sland,  to  be  in  such  a  condition  that  any  well-provided  vessel  could  easily  run 
through  it. 

While  Sergeant  Rice  visited  Washington  Irving  Island  I  found  the  English  depot  with 
some  difficulty  and  took  it  up.  A  foot  or  more  of  newly  fallen  snow  covered  Washington 
Irving  Island  and  the  land  around  Cape  Hawks,  and  rendered  the  discovery  of  the  cache 
difficult.  The  depot  consisted  of  three  hundred  and  fort\  -two  pounds  of  stearine,  one  hundred 
and  sixty-eight  pounds  of  preserved  potatoes,  about  six  gallons  of  rum,  and  some  two  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds  of  bread.  Fully  nine-tenths  of  the  bread  had  .spoiled  since  otir  previous 
visit,  and  owing  to  the  grave  iincertainty  of  the  ftittne  the  entire  amount  was  carefully 
examined  for  such  as  was  serviceable,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  that  taken  was  so 
moldy  that  it  was  barely  eatable.  In  connection  with  subsequent  events  it  may,  jierhaps,  be 
properly  stated  that,  not  exceeding  a  hundred  ])otuuls  of  bread  could  jiossibly  have  been 
selected  from  the  unserviceable  amount  left,  and  that  all  of  this  was  permeated  and  covered  by 
a  slimy,  green  mold  which  rendered  the  bread  unfit  for  any  one,  and  eatable  only  by  a  starving 


THE  LADY  FllANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITIO^J. 


man.  To  supplement  our  small  amount  of  coal,  then  reduced  to  about  four  hundred  pounds, 
all  the  casks  at  Cape  Hawks  were  broken  up  hud  taken  on  the  launch,  to  be  used  for  steaming 
purposes. 

We  left  Cape  Hawks  at  4.25  p.  m.  and  ran  southwest  nearly  an  hour,  finding  the  old  ice 
increasing  in  amount  and  in  places  cemented  thickly  together  with  young  ice.  My  judgment 
at  the  time,  of  the  situation,  is  best  shown  by  a  literal  quotation  from  my  journal  of  that  date : 

'*  I  cannot  but  feel  that  we  are  now  in  a  critical  situation,  not  knowing  what  can  be 
depended  on.  Since  no  vessel  reached  this  point  in  i882-'83  (to  this  time),  we  must  all  feel 
an  uncertainty  as  to  the  parly  for  our  relief  being  at  Life  lioat  Cove.  The  ice  to  the  south- 
ward, as  far  as  the  eye  coirld  reach  from  the  summit  of  Washington  Irving  Island,  is  now  in 
such  a  state  that  any  well  provided  vessel  could  easily  run  through  it.  If  no  party  is  at  Life 
Boat  Cove,  our  situation  is  exceedingly  dangerous.  We  have,  jx-rhaps,  sixty  days'  provi.sions, 
except  sugar,  and  beyond  that  we  must  depend  uijon  the  resources  of  the  country,  which  are 
of  the  most  precarious  character.  However,  we  shall  do  as  we  have  done,  our  utmost,  and 
by  some  possible  chance  we  may  reach  Cary  Islands."* 

We  had,  unaided,  successfully  made  our  way  for  over  two  hundred  miles  of  latitude 
(involving  over  400  miles  of  travel),  despite  a  remarkably  early  autumn,  and  through  ice  of 
such  character  as  must  be  seen  for  a  just  appreciation  of  the  dangers  and  difficulties  con- 
nected with  its  successful  navigation.  Scarcely  fifty  miles  south  of  us  were  the  cliffs  of  Cape 
Sabine,  which  looked  southward  to  the  open  Nt)rth  Water,  and  though  unconscious  that  five 
weeks  before  the  Proteus  had  sunk  in  the  sea  before  us,  our  minds  were  filled  with  appre- 
hensions and  forebodings  as  to  the  future.  The  condition  of  affairs  seemed  alarming ;  it  was 
evident  that  no  relief  vessel  could  be  depended  upon  ;  the  temperature,  which  had  been  for 
some  time  below  the  freezing-point,  then  stood  about  25°  [ — 3.9°  C],  and  the  appearance  of 
the  young  ice  foreboded  trouble.  We  had  reached  a  latitude  where  the  sun  now  set;  and 
the  clear  sky  indicated  a  decided  fall  in  temperature  the  coming  night.  The  launch  was 
off  Allman  Bay,  the  surface  of  which  consisted  of  water  substantially  fresh,  derived  from  John 
Evans  Glacier.  Only  four  days  later  in  1876,  with  a  similar  temperature,  newly  formed  ice 
had  been  found  in  this  bay  by  Sir  George  Nares,  from  one  to  three  inches  [25.4"""  to  76.2"""]  in 
thickness.  Through  this  ice  the  Discmwry  had  forced  its  way  only  with  difficulty,  and  its 
passage  bj'  a  small  launch  would  be  manifestly  impossible.  But  four  hundred  pounds  of  coal 
remained  for  steaming  purposes. 

In  consequence  of  these  conditions,  it  seemed  imperative  for  me  to  keep  off  the  coast 
and  endeavor  to  reach  by  a  direct  course  Victoria  Head,  only  about  eighteen  miles,  or  four 
hours'  run,  distant.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  consulted  before  deciding  the  question,  and 
his  views  agreed  with  mine,  that  it  was  the  best,  indeed  the  only,  course  to  follow.  The 
responsibility  of  this  decision,  however,  rests,  as  did  that  of  all  orders  in  this  retreat,  entirely 
upon  me,  as  I  nc\er  considered  the  counsel  of  any  of  my  subordinates  as  in  any  manner 

*  It  lias  been  sugt;esteil  lliat  in  the  spring  of  1883,  onlers  or  no  onlers,  I  should  have  withdrawn  tlie  command,  or  at  least  a 
'irtof  it,  to  Littleton  Island  to  facilitate  rtlief,  Slrani^e  as  it  may  sccni,  there  are  those  who  do  not  realize  what  a  disjjrace  it 
would  have  been  for  an  American  otlicer  to  abandon  seientilic  work  and  assigned  station  which  the  lumor  of  his  Clovirnment 
was  pledt;ed  to  maintain  until  Au(;ust  I,  lS8j.  Such  may  yieUi,  however,  to  coyent  facts,  which  disprove  the  j  ossibilily  and 
utility  of  such  retreat.  Had  honor,  orders,  and  sound  judgment  all  permitted  sending  a  party  southward  what  would  have 
occurre<l  ? 

I'irst.  Such  party  (even  of  three  men)  would  have  stripped,  for  the  subsistence  of  themselves  anil  dogs,  the  de|)ots  between 
Capes  l.ieber  and  Hawks,  and  exhausted  the  provisions,  which  late,  gave  twenty  live  men  a  chance  of  life,  and  eventually  saved 
seven. 

Second.  The  parly  could  not  liave  reached  Littleton  Island.  This  is  based  on  the  fact  that  in  the  only  htinvn  years,  1861 
and  1872,  the  southern  part  of  Kennedy  Channel  was  impassable  for  sledges. 

Third.  Ciranli'il  -  an  im|«issiliilily — Ihat  lillliMon  Islaiul  was  reached.  As  Ihe  route  is  direct  from  Cape  Hawks,  any  eflect 
un  Lieutenint  (larlington  was  impossible,  fur  that  ollicer  did  nut  land  at  Littleton  Island  but  passed  by  to  Cape  Sabine. 


|i     ' 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


59 


relievinp  iiie  from  the  responsibility  which,  properly,  devolves  upon  every  commanding 
officer.  In  order  to  avail  myself  of  the  best  nantical  experience  of  the  expedition,  Serjjeatit 
Rice,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  whale-boat,  was  called  forward  to  steer  and  assist  in  nuining 
the  launch.  He  was  a  man  of  excellent  jndgment,  accnstomed  to  Ixiats  from  his  boyhocjd, 
and  had  experience  for  over  a  year  in  the  management  of  coasting  vessels. 

After  leaving  the  coast  the  ontside  ice  opened  .somewhat  and  considerable  progress  was 
made  to  the  south  and  eastward.  We  were  finally  stopped  by  two  small  floes  cemented  to- 
gether by  young  ice,  through  which,  unfortunately,  we  could  not  force  our  way,  and  so  moored 
our  boats  to  await  the  next  tide.  It  was  the  opinion  of  Sergeant  Rice  and  the  acute  Kskinio 
Jens,  that  if  we  could  have  advanced  a  mile  farther  to  a  large  floe-berg,  we  could  have  gone 
southward  without  difficulty. 

The  temperature  fell  that  night  to  i8°  [ — 7.8°  C],  and  young  ice  fonned  between  the 
floes  of  sufficient  thickness  to  bear  a  man  in  places.  The  morning  of  the  22d  found  us  be.set, 
beyond  a  doubt,  in  about  longitude  73°  30'  W.,  and  79°  21.5'  N.  I  stated  to  the  party  that  at 
the  worst  we  could  reasonably  expect  within  the  next  thirty  days  to  drift  into  Smith  Sound, 
and  in  .so  doing  must  pass  within  eight  or  ten  miles  of  the  coast.  A  tripod,  twelve  feet  [3.658'"] 
high,  was  erected  on  the  floe  on  which  to  di.splay  a  signal,  and  al.so  for  a  lookout  to  the  south. 

On  the  28th  a  proposition  was  made  to  ptit  the  party  on  reduced  rations,  which  I  tliQiiglit 
unadvisable  until  such  action  was  imperative,  in  view  of  the  depressing  effect  it  would  nat- 
urally have  upon  the  party. 

The  temperature  sank  to  1 2.5°  [ — 10.8°  C]  on  the  night  of  the  28th  and  to  10°  [ —  1 2. 20  C.  ] 
on  the  morning  of  the  30th,  the  lowest  temperatures  ever  recorded  in  .\ugust.  The  temper- 
ature may  be  said  to  have  gone  permanently  below  the  freezing-])oint  on  August  25,  for  during 
the  remainder  of  the  month  a  higher  temperature  was  noted  l)Ut  a  few  .scattered  hours. 

On  the  3i.st  we  were  in  about  latitude  79°  19'  N.,  our  position  indicating  a  slight  move- 
ment of  the  pack  to  the  southward. 

An  inventory  of  stores  the  preceding  day  showed  that  we  had  provisions  for  fifty  days, 
except  tea  and  coffee  for  forty  days.  The  men  at  that  time  were  generally  well,  although 
suffering  much  discomfort  from  their  inactive  condition  and  continued  cold  weather.  .An 
issue  of  three-eighths  of  a  gill  of  rum  was  made  that  evening,  and  was  continued  on  alternate 
days  thereafter,  when  thought  nece.s.sar)'. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  approached  me  that  day  (August  31)  in  regard  to  our  future  move- 
ments, and  was  informed  by  me  that  September  10  was  the  latest  limit  to  which  I  was  willing 
to  wait  the  action  of  the  .spring  tides  and  heavy  winds  to  break  up  the  floes.  I  moreover 
stated  my  intention  of  abandoning  all  boats  but  one,  expecting  to  find  a  ])oat  at  Cape  Sabine 
and  believing  that  a  second  boat  could  not  be  hauled.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  then  concurred  in 
the  unadvisability  of  waiting  longer  than  September  10,  but  urged  a  second  boat  being  taken. 


SEPTEMBER,  1883. 

On  September  i  the  young  ice  was  broken  up  by  the  strong  tide  during  calm  weather, 
and  the  movement  of  the  floes,  catching  the  launch,  raised  her  entirely  out  of  the  water  (for- 
tunately without  injur)'),  where  she  remained  for  several  hours.  The  ice  showed  a  tendency 
that  evening  to  separate,  and  con.siderable  open  water  was  seen  as  far  as  the  fog  would  permit — 
some  three  hundred  yards  [274"']  — which  unfortunately  ran  east  and  west.  I  was  advi.scd  to 
attempt  a  movement,  but  considered  it  insanity  to  attempt  to  change  the  position  of  four  boats 
in  such  a  dense  fog,  with  the  heaviest  tide  of  the  month  coming  on.  The  prudence  of  my 
decision  was  shown  a  couple  of  hours  afterwards,  at  the  change  of  the  tide,  when  the  pack 
closed  suddenly  and  violently  and  lifted  the  launch  bodily  out  of  the  water  three  or  four 
different  times.     When  the  morning  came  not  a  pool  of  water  could  be  seen. 


60 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXF'KDITION. 


: 


Two  small  seals  were  killed  on  the  2(1  and  3d,  affording  a  welcome  change  of  onr  diet. 

On  the  3d  the  meridian  observation  placed  ns  in  79°  15.6'  N.,  near  Victoria  Head.  The 
decreasing  latitude  nmch  encouraged  the  party.  Karly  that  morning  the  ice  loo.sened  up 
sufficiently  to  allow  our  moving  the  launch  and  boats  to  a  larger  and  more  desirable  floe, 
which  was  a  little  over  a  mile  square.  The  triixid  was  kept  up,  from  which  the  condition 
of  the  ice  could  be  seen  for  about  five  miles,  and  an  ensign  was  kept  flying  to  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  any  party  or  vessel  at  Cape  Sabine. 

On  September  3  I  was  obliged  to  notice  and  reprimand  an  injudicious  and  ill-advised 
discussion  of  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  Lance  Sergeant  Council  on  our  situation,  and  to 
forbid  a  recurrence  to  such  a  demoralizing  course. 

Deeming  it  a  proper  occasion,  I  concluded  to  ask  the  opinion  of  the  officers  and  the  two 
most  experienced  sergeants  as  to  future  movements. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury  first  advised  the  immediate  abandonment  of  the  launch  and  to 
attempt  to  reach  over  the  detached  floes  Bachc  Island  with  two  boats  and  five  hundred  pounds 
of  selected  baggage,  thence  to  pass  aroinid  Ihichanan  Strait,  which  he  believed  to  be  a  bay. 
He  thought  Cape  Sabine  could  be  reached  by  the  time  our  rations  would  be  exhausted,  say, 
from  fifty  to  sixty  days.  Dr.  Pavy's  opinion  concurred  with  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's,  except 
he  advised  delaying  a  day,  but  he  thought  Cape  Sabine  could  be  reached  in  a  month.  Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood  counseled  inaction  for  the  present,  believing  the  drift  would  assist  us,  and 
that  the  pack  could  not  be  crossed  at  that  time  with  all  our  baggage.  Sergeants  Brainard  and 
Rice  concurred  substantially  in  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  opinion,  with  the  addition  from  Rice 
that,  under  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  plan,  he  felt  but  one  boat  could  be  got  to  Cape  Sabine. 

I  then  announced  that  my  plan  was  to  uniformly  and  persistently  follow  up  with  the 
boats  any  opening  which  would  carry  us  either  .south  or  towards  land.  I  stated  my  belief 
that  Bache  Island  could  only  be  reached  T>y  extraordinary  exertions,  and  that  the  crossing  of 
Buchanan  Strait,  .some  twenty  miles  wide,  would  be  extremely  difficult  if  not  impossible.  I 
further  stated  that  if  our  drift  carried  us  to  the  .southwest  the  nearest  land  could  be  made  by 
.sledge,  after  young  ice  permitted  traveling,  or  if  to  the  southeast,  I  should  attempt  to  reach 
the  Greenland  coast.  Our  ration  of  bread,  meat,  potatoes,  and  fuel  was  considered  to  be  suf- 
ficient to  last  until  November  i. 

On  the  4th,  Private  William  Whisler,  who  had  been  di.scharged  the  day  before  for  expira- 
tion of  term  of  service,  was  re-enlisted. 

A  harbor-seal  was  killed  on  the  4th,  and  another  on  the  5th.  Preparations  were  com- 
menced on  the  latter  day  for  the  proposed  abandonment  of  the  launch  on  the  loth.  A  large 
paleocrystic  floe  was  visited,  but  to  my  great  disappointment  no  signs  of  a  ship  were  visible 
from  its  summit,  but  only  occasional  narrow  lanes  of  water,  which  seemed  general  to  the  north 
of  us. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  the  ice  loosened  up  somewhat,  and  it  appeared  possible  to  reach 
Cape  Albert.  The  boats  were  innnediately  put  in  water  and  the  launch  taken  in  tow  until 
she  could  get  up  steam ;  for  during  this  time  the  small  amount  of  fuel  had  rendered  it  necessary 
to  permit  the  fires  to  die  out.  We  succeeded  only  in  making  a  mile  to  the  southwest,  and 
were  driven  by  the  closing  pack  to  take  refuge  on  a  small  paleocrystic  floe,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  [137. 158"°]  square  and  some  fifty  feet  [15.240"]  thick. 

A  heavy  northeast  gale  set  in  during  the  night  of  the  4th,  and  drove  us  rapidly  at  first  to 
the  south,  but  later  our  movement  stopped,  showing  evidently  that  there  was  no  water  of  any 
extent  between  us  and  the  south  side  of  Buchanan  Strait;  During  the  gale  the  launch  received 
many  nips  from  the  dense,  heavy  ice,  but  fortunately  escaped  unharmed.  On  the  5th  we  were 
obliged  to  commence  melting  ice  for  cooking  purpose,  there  being  no  floe  in  reach  from  which 
fresh  water  could  be  obtained. 


THE  LADY  FRANKMN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


61 


Our  noon  observation  of  the  5tli  was  an  agreeable  surprise  to  us,  being  79°  0.6';  we  were 
then  equidistant  from  Capes  Caniix-rdown  and  AUxfrt,  beinj^  three  miles  frotn  eacli.  Cape 
Albert  bore  four  degrees  south  of  west,  showing  that  the  south  eoast  of  Hache  Island  was  laid 
down  wrong  or  else  the  magnetic  declinatitm  had  changed  materially  since  1H75-  76.  Victoria 
Head  had  agreed  with  our  previous  observations,  but  Cape  Alln-rt  had  been  out  all  the  tiin«'. 
It  was  very  encouraging  to  know  that  we  were  only  seventeen  or  eighteen  miles  frojn  Cajic 
Sabine,  and  eleven  or  twelve  from  Cocked-Hat  Island. 

Owing  to  these  discrepancies  I  ordered  siK-cial  observations  for  magnetic  declination,  which 
were  made  by  my  astronomer,  .Sergeant  Israel,  on  the  6th.  The  variation  was  found  to  be 
105.9°  W.  This  correction  made  our  bearings  more  in  accord  with  the  Knglish  chart,  although 
not  entirely  agreeing.  Cape  Camperdown  was  then  due  west,  and  so  was  in  our  latitude, 
79°  0.6',  which  is  some  two  miles  farther  south  than  is  shown  by  the  British  map.  The  trend 
of  the  south  coast  of  Hache  Island  was  apparently  correct,  as  we  could  not  then  see  the  Wcy- 
precht  Islands. 

In  the  early  morning  of  September  8  the  temperature  sank  to  — 0.8°  [ — 18.2°  C],  the 
lowest  I  have  ever  known  so  early  in  the  .season,  zero  [ — 17.8"  C]  being  reached  twelve  days 
earlier  than  at  Conger  in  1881,  which  was  unprecedentedly  early. 

I  visited  on  that  day  a  large  floe-berg,  which  was  half  a  mile  long  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
wide,  with  an  average  elevation  of  eighty  feet  [24.384""].  An  excellent  view  to  the  south 
showed  only  densely  packed  ice,  except  a  narrow  lane,  probably  about  four  hundred  yards 
[366'"]  wide,  running  south  a  few  Imndred  yards  from  Cape  Camperdown.  The  natives  de- 
clared the  ice  to  the  ,west,  in  Buchanan  .Strait,  to  be  that  of  the  previous  year,  and  that  it 
had  never  broken  up.  With  a  glass  I  examined  the  ice  carefully  for  sledging,  and  the  best 
route  seemed  to  coincide  with  the  direction  of  the  nearest  land,  Cocked-Hat  Island. 

On  September  9,  our  latitude  having  been  unchanged  since  the  6th,  I  called  together  the 
officers  and  Sergeants  Rice  and  Brainard,  and  notified  them  that  we  would  start  with  sledge 
the  next  day  for  Cocked-Hat  Island.  I  stated  that  two  boats,  all  the  provisions,  all  records 
and  scientific  instruments  would  be  taken.  The  .second  boat  was  taken  in  deference  to  the 
opinion  of  the  officers  who  thought  a  movement  with  a  single  boat  dangerous.  I  was  unset- 
tled as  to  abandoning  some  three  hundred  pounds  of  stearine  and  shot-gun  ammunition,  but 
finally  decided  to  take  them.  I  informed  the  party  that  including  .sledges  we  had  sixty-five 
hundred  pounds  or  more  to  haul,  so  from  the  first  we  must  travel  three  times  over  the  .same 
ice.  The  officers  and  sergeants  advised  no  further  delay.  Dr.  Pavy  recommended  abandon- 
ing one  keg  of  lime-juice,  which  was  done.  The  best  shot-gun,  marine-gla.ss-,  and  telescope 
property  were  taken,  the  remaining  ones  being  abandoned,  as  was  all  private  and  public  which 
was  not  absolutely  indispensable  to  us. 

The  pendulum  being  a  heavy  and  cumbersome  instrument,  I  informed  the  men  that 
while  the  saving  of  it  was  much  to  be  desired,  from  the  value  of  subsequent  comparative 
observations,  yet  it  could  not  weigh  against  the  chances  of  any  man's  life,  and  that  whenever 
any  one  thought  his  life  endangered  by  hauling  it  or  any  one  insisted  on  its  abandoinnent  I 
would  do  so.  To  the  credit  of  the  party  no  man  ever  hinted  at  the  abandoinnent,  and  most 
of  them  were  outspoken  for  its  retention  to  the  last. 

Prepared  records  were  left  in  the  launch  Lady  Grcely  and  the  jolly-boat  \  'a/orons,  setting 
forth  our  condition  and  our  intention  of  reaching  Littleton  Island,  and  possibly  Cary  Islands, 
if  practicable,  a  copy  of  which  record  forms  Appendix  No.  105. 

September  10  broke  with  a  northeasterly  snow-storm,  which  delayed  our  moving  until 
afternoon.  Sergeant  Brainard  suggested  that  one  man  should  select  the  route  in  advance, 
which  was  carried  otit,  on  this  as  well  as  on  other  days,  with  excellent  results.  The  party  started 
with  three  sledges,  the  first,  the  twelve-man  sledge,  dragged  by  my.self  and  thirteen  others ; 
Lieutenant  Kislingbury  with  five  men  dragged  the  six-man  sledge;  Sergeant  Jewell  and  three 


t 


i 


02 


THE  LADY  FBANKMN  HAY  KXPHDITfON. 


others  the  fixtr-inaii  slcdjje.  Duriiij^  this  retreat  I  iK'rfonned  the  same  work  in  tlie  dra^j-ropes 
r.s  any  private  in  the  party  and  tlie  officers  all  did  the  same.  Holh  the  small  sledj^es  broke 
down  the  first  day,  and  the  four-man  sledj^e  was  abandoned.  Tlie  six-man  sledj^e  was  repaired 
and  used  subsequently. 

At  startinjj,  the  estimated  distance  of  Cocked-Hat  Island  was  eleven  mile.s.  On  the  first 
day  we  made  jjood  one  mile  of  that  distance,  which  involved  nine  hours  traveling,  or  almost 
fouiteen  hours  from  breakinj;  to  coinplctinjj  camp.  In  campinj;;,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and 
myself  with  ten  men  slept  on  the  floe,  sheltered  by  a  tepee  made  of  canvas,  Indian  fashion; 
and  under  Private  Frederick's  siii)crvi:ion  Lieutenant  Kislinj^bury  and  si.\  others  slept  in  the 
whale-boat,  and  vSerjj;cant  Hraiiiard  with  six  others  in  the  ice-boat  In/oroiis.  The  weaker  and 
ailinjj  of  the  party,  Israel,  Hiederbick,  Council  and  Lonj^,  were  assij^ncd  by  me  to  the  boats, 
which  were  more  comfortable  than  the  tepee. 

On  the  1 1  til  we  made  about  a  mile  and  a  lialf  good,  leavinjj;  us  about  cijjht  miles  and  a  half 
from  Cocked-Hat  Island.  Dr.  I'avy  and  Serjjeant  Brainard  visited  a  very  larj>c  floe-berg  about 
two  miles  distant  and  brought  back  very  di.scouraging  reports.  Towards  Cocked-Hat  Island 
new  thin  ice  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  extent  was  seen,  and  then  rubble,  from  young  ice,  towards 
the  island,  with  no  floe;'..  I  called  the  officers  and  sergeants  together  and  informed  them  of 
the  condition  of  the  ice  towards  Cocked-Hat  Island,  and  stated  that  the  spring  tides  would 
come  in  about  four  days,  aiid  asked  their  opinions  as  to  future  movements,  particularly  as  to 
our  advisability  of  venturing  on  the  new  ice.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  advised  moving  to  the 
berg  (which  would  entail  about  two  days'  work  owing  to  deep  snow  in  that  direction)  and  await 
there  the  spring  tides;  Dr.  Pavy  and  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Rice  substantially  agreed  with 
Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  recommendations,  though  Sergeant  Rice  thought  it  possible,  per- 
haps, to  move  to  the  westward;  Lieutenant  Lockwood  advised  moving  ahead  but  to  the  cast 
of  the  floe-berg,  and  thence  examine  practicable  routes  by  parties. 

I  decided  to  examine  the  ice  thoroughly  in  all  directions  before  moving,  in  order  to  avoid 
exhausting  the  strength  of  the  party  by  useless  efforts,  and  .so  delayed  five  hours  w:hile  the  ice 
was  being  examined  by  a  party  under  Dr.  Pavy  to  the  southeast,  and  by  Lieutenant  Kisling- 
bury to  the  southwest.  This  short  rest  ser\-ed  a  good  purpose  in  allowing  sleeping-bags  and 
clothing  to  be  partly  dried.  This  was  on  the  morning  of  September  12,  at  which  date  we 
were  in  latitude  78°  58.9'. 

Lieutenant  Ki.slingbury's  reports  were  very  discouraging  as  to  the  ice  to  the  southwest. 
Dr.  Pavy  and  Sergeant  Rice  reported  the  route  to  the  southeast  practicable  and  advisable,  and 
I  decided  to  inove  in  thit  direction.  As  we  were  about  moving  off"  with  the  first  load,  the 
three  officers  and  two  sergeants  came  to  me  and  strongly  and  unanimously  recommended  the 
abandonment  of  the  whale-boat,  fearing  it  would  break  down  our  sledge  and  compromise  our 
ultimate  safety.  I  at  once  concurred  in  their  opinion,  being  satisfied  of  the  necessity,  and 
ordered  the  abandonment  of  the  boat.  It  had  been  evident  to  me,  as  shown  by  Lieutenant 
Lockwood's  journal  of  August  31,  that  a  second  boat  could  not  be  taken  by  us  with  any  hopes 
of  successful  traveling,  and  it  had  been  ordered  retained  by  me  in  abandoning  the  launch,  only 
in  deference  to  the  unanimous  opinion  of  all  the  officers  and  most  of  the  men. 

We  made  good  about  two  miles  due  .south  on  the  12th.  At  noon  of  the  13th  wo  were  in 
latitude  78°  56.  9'  N.,  with  extremely  divergent  opinions  as  to  our  distance  from  Cocked-Hat 
Island;  it  being  variously  estimated  from  four  to  ten  miles  by  the  party;  the  astronomer  and 
I  believed  it  to  be  about  eight  statute  miles.  By  the  map  we  were  six  miles  of  latitude  to  the 
north  of  the  island  and  nine  miles  due  north  of  Camp  Clay. 

On  the  14th  our  latitude  was  estimated  anywhere  from  78°  54'  to  78°  56'.  But  to  our 
dismay,  after  a  hard  day's  work,  a  marked  movement  of  the  pack  towards  the  northeast  was 
discovered  in  the  afternoon,  cau.sed  by  a  southwest  storm,  which  set  us  off"  to  the  northeast. 


I—  M.  ■■■'.<«  .'■■HI  jwLL^^i.Wj^.i.iLWTTr 


TUE  LADY   FRANKLIN   l»AV   KXI'KDITION. 


03 


At  noon  of  the  15th  we  were  in  79"  i.S'  N.,  over  a  iiii'-  :)rtli  of  the  Intitnde  in  which 
the  launcli  was  abandoned,  and  at  a  greater  distance  from  laiid  than  we  had  cvir  been.  Tlie 
sonthwest  jjale  had  driven  ns  into  the  middle  of  Kane  Sea,  to  a  jjoint  twelve  to  fifteen  njiles 
east  of  Cape  Albert.  On  the  evening  of  the  T5th  we  were  seventeen  miles  northeast  of  Cocked- 
Hat  Island,  on  the  Littleton  Island  meridian.  On  the  i6th  the  jjale  abated  and  at  n(H>n  we 
v^ercin  79°  0.7',  with  onr  meridian  nnchanj^ed,  havinj;  K''""*^*^  •'  '"'1^'  '1"*^  sonlh  in  the  day. 

The  ice  was  carefully  examined  to  the  .southeast  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  party,  and 
to  the  southwest  by  Sergeant  Rice.  My  iutentions  then  were  to  reach  the  (Jreenland  coast, 
if  any  chance  presented  itself.  We  were  at  that  time  thirty  miles  from  Cairn  Point  and  nine- 
teen from  Cape  Sabine,  and  apix^ared  to  be  drifting  to  the  .southeast.  To  reach  Cairn  I'oinl  in 
our  southerly  drift  but  five  or  s'x  miles  easting  was  necessary,  while  to  reach  Sabine  fully  three 
times  that  anioiint  would  be  required.  An  inventory  tlutt  day  showed  forty  da\s'  remaining 
rations,  and  that  evening  two  small  harlxjr-seals,  aggregating  about  three  hundred  pounds 
gross  weight,  were  killed. 

At  noon  of  the  17th  we  were  in  78°  56',  having  drifted  three  miles  to  the  west  aiul  four 
to  the  .south.  This  marked  change  in  the  drift  altered  my  intention  of  attempting  to  re:i(li 
the  Greenland  coast,  which  would  have  been  my  route  if  the  drift  had  been  .south  or  eve'i 
south-southwest.  During  our  enforced  delay  the  two  sledges,  badly  worn  and  injured  by 
rough  ice,  were  repaired. 

We  started  at  i  p.  m.,aud  when  the  darkness  came  at  10  p.  m.,  had  made  about  three 
and  a  quarter  miles  to  the  southwest.  Some  of  the  party  then  estimated  land  as  three  or  four 
miles  distant,  but  it  was  nearer  eight. 

On  the  i8th  the  cooks  were  up  at  5  a.  m.,  and  the  party  at  6.  We  worked  steadily  until 
9  p.  m.,  with  a  short  delay  for  tea  at  7  p.  >ii.  The  day's  work  was  exceedingly  tr\  ing;  .several 
lanes  of  water  had  to  be  crossed  where  three  loads  were  necessary,  and  con.sequent  separations 
of  the  party  entailed.  On  the  moving  pack  such  .separations  were  dangerous,  but  absoluleh' 
essential  to  progress.  When  darkness  came  we  were  about  four  miles  from  shonj,  with  an  in- 
tervening open  pack.     The  party  were  so  exhausted  that  no  shelter  was  erected  that  nigiit. 

September  19  was  a  critical  day  for  the  party.  A  southwest  gale  connnenccd  shortly 
after  midnight,  and  was  so  violent  during  the  day  that  pemmicau  and  water  was  served  to  the 
men  in  their  bags  for  breakfast  and  supper,  no  cooking  being  possible.  The  wind  was  to') 
violent  for  a  latitude  observation  at  noon.  At  5  p.  m.,  our  bearings  indicated  that  we  we 
again  in  the  middle  of  Kane  Sea  in  78°  52'  (or  53'),  from  twelve  to  fourteen  miles  cast  of  '' ._ 
Sabine,  and  about  seven  miles  west  of  Cairn  Point,  and  on  the  meridian  of  Cape  Alexander. 
The  land  which  the  night  before  had  been  in  ea.sy  reach,  w;is  now  lietween  fifteen  and  twenty 
miles  distant.  A  consultation  of  all  the  officers  and  two  .sergeants  was  had,  at  which  they 
were  asked  to  express  their  opinions  as  to  future  movements.  They  all  believed  that  there 
was  a  chance  of  reaching  the  west  coast,  if  we  drifted  by  Cape  Sabine. 

I  stated  my  opinion  that  the  proper  course  would  be  to  abandon  two  thousand  pounds 
weight,  and  take  our  records,  instruments,  and  twenty  days'  rations,  start  acro.ss  the  open  pack 
for  the  Greenland  shore,  twenty-three  or  twenty-four  miles  distant.  By  such  abandonment,  1 
said,  the  party  could  haul  everything  at  a  load,  transferring  by  boat  in  two  loads,  which  vould 
ensure  our  making  nearly  three  times  the  distance  as  by  our  past  method.  I  po  ;i!;<.d  out  that 
theGreenland  coast  with  the  Etah  Eskimo  was  the  only  quarter  where  positive  rcU'  could  be 
expected,  that  Cape  Sabine  presented  nothing  certain,  and  that  I  considered  it  almost  im- 
possible to  make  twelve  miles  westing  in  nine  miles  southerly  drift  Our  previous  experience 
had  shown  that  in  three  days  we  had  made  but  four  miles  westing  in  twelve  miles  southing, 
or  one- third  of  a  mile  westing  to  each  mile  soutliing.  Towards  the  (ireenland  coast  wc  h»4 
to  make  but  two  miles  easting  to  reach  Littleton  Island,  thirty -one  miles  to  the  south. 


I 


64 


THE  LADY  FUANKMN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Owinp  to  the  unaninions  opinion  of  my  officers  I  decided  to  delay  until  the  2otli  to  ascer- 
tain the  drift,  annonncinjr,  however,  my  intention  of  movinji;  towards  the  Greenland  coast 
the  next  day,  nnless  remarkable  chanjjes  resulted  from  our  drift  in  the  mean  time.  During 
the  next  day  the  dense  fog  and  occasional  snow  prevented  movement  in  any  direction.  I 
sho'-ld  certainly  have  moved  towards  (Ircenland,  had  land  been  visible  in  any  quarter  so 
iis  to  show  our  exact  position. 

During  the  aotli  and  2ist  four  .seals  were  killed,  which  added  materially  to  our  food 
•suoply.  Snow  fell  on  the  21st  and  prevented  any  nu)vcment.  On  the  22d  we  were  in  latitude 
7b''  52.6',  on  the  meridian  of  Cairn  Point,  our  latitude  l)eing  slightly  iincertaiu  on  account  of 
the  lowne.ss  of  the  sun.  The  abandoned  whale-boat  was  seen  two  miles  .southwest  of  us,  and 
an  attempt  was  made  to  reach  it,  but  it  was  nn.sncce.ssful  owing  to  the  packed  slush-ice,  which 
would  not  sup]K)rt  a  man  or  permit  the  pas.sagc  of  a  l)oat. 

On  the  night  of  the  22(1  and  23d  snow  prevailed,  and  a  heavy  gale,  probably  from  the 
east,  drove  us  again  very  near  the  EUe.smere  lyand  coast.  At  noon  wc  were  about  nine  miles 
distant  from  Cape  Sabine  and  the  same  from  Cocked-Hat  Island. 

( )n  the  24th  the  ice  to  the  westward  was  examined  and  reports  were  made  by  vSergeant 
Brainard  and  Private  Schneider,  showing  its  impracticability.  Later,  I  .sent  lyientenant 
Lockwood,  with  several  men  with  a  boat,  to  visit  the  adjoining  floes  to  the  west  and  sotithwest 
in  the  direction  of  the  w'lale-boat.  The  floes  were  found  to  be  of  last  year's  ice,  and  .so  rotten 
that  traveling  over  them  with  a  load  was  impossible.  This  party  returned  to  us  with  serious 
difficulty,  owing  to  rubble  and  .slush-ice,  and  unfortunately  lost  in  so  doing  our  only  .shovel. 

Tiie  cooks  were  called  at  day-break,  4.30  a.  m.,  on  the  25th,  I  being  determined  to  move 
in  some  direction.  A  .severe  northeast  gale  with  snow,  however,  prevented  it.  The  violence 
of  the  gale  and  tlie  pressure  of  heavy  ice  split  uj)  our  paleocrystic  floe.  Its  original  size  was 
about  half  a  mile  .square  and  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  [9'"  to  12'"]  thick.  We  were  left  upon  a 
piece,  the  area  of  which  amounted  to  about  three  acn  .s.  ( )ursituation  was  then  extremely  crit- 
ical, as  the  northwest  gale  was  .setting  us  .slowly,  but  certainly,  oflshore  towards  the  ccjiter  of 
Smith  vSouud.  At  6  p.  m.  we  were  crowded  against  a  large  paleocrystic  floe  to  the  west,  from 
which  huge  nias.ses  of  slu.sh  and  rubble  ice  .separated  us  for  an  eighth  of  a  mile.  Chri.stiansen  was 
sent  across  to  test  the  ice  in  the  hope  that  we  might  reach  this  fioe.  He  reached  it  with  great 
difficulty,  but  in  returning  nearly  broke  through  in  .several  places,  .showing  its  utter  imprac- 
ticability for  a  heavy  load.  The  party  doubtless  could  have  reached  Cape  Sabine  at  this  time 
on  foot  by  abandoning  all  provisions,  records,  and  supplies  ;  and,  indeed,  shore  could  have  fre- 
quently been  reached  at  such  expense. 

At  8.  a.  m.  of  the  26th  we  were  half  a  mile  ea.st  of  »Stalknecht  Islatul,  with  open  water  to 
that  j)oiut.  vSergeant  Rice  and  Private  vSchueider,  the  nu)st  experienced  sailors,  examined  the 
pool  ami  reported  it  as  utterly  impracticable,  owing  to  the  heavy  .sea  and  the  thick  slush-ice, 
through  which  a  well-nuinned  boat  could  hardly  move,  even  without  a  load.  Possibly  a 
j)ortiou  of  the  party  might  have  landed  at  that  time,  abandoning  the  rest  to  its  fate.  Such  an 
attempt  was  strongly  recommended  by  Dr.  Pavy. 

At  I  p.  m.  two  large  paleocrystic  floes  pressed  us  so  badly  that  our  own  floe  was  cracked, 
and,  despite  the  violent  northerly  gale  and  a  drifting  snow,  we  were  obliged  to  seek  refuge  on 
a  .second  floe  where  shelter  was  obtained  with  difficulty.  Our  old  floe  eventually  broke  in 
fragmeiits. 

I'Vom  the  afternoon  of  the  26th  until  the  morning  of  the  28th  the  most  violent  iu)rth- 
westerly  gale  exj)erienccd  by  us  during  our  retreat  prevailed,  accompanied  by  drifting  snow. 
During  this  time  it  was  impos,sible  to  cook  but  once,  and  a  portion  of  the  men  for  forty  hours 
were  unwilling  to  leave  their  sleeping-bags  even  for  food. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th  we  di.scovered  that  vSmith  Sound  was  so  densely  packed  with 
iee  that  we  had  .scarcely  moved  a  mile  .southward  since  the  preceding  day,  and  that  to  the  west- 


nPWS 


TllK  liADY  FKANKLIN  I1A\  EXPEDITION. 


05 


ward  of  us  a  second  palcocrj-stic  floe  was  cauj>^ht  fast.  The  water  space  to  the  westward  was 
closely  watched,  and  tlie  moment  the  sea  had  decreased,  so  that  it  was  passable  with  small  loads, 
the  crossin)j[  to  the  floe  to  the  west  conuncnced.  We  succeeded  in  reaching  that  nijjlit  by 
extraordinary  eflbrts  a  point  where  land  seemed  a  certainty.  Durinj^  that  day  ai;d  the  follow- 
inj;  one  we  were  oblij^ed  to  cross  several  lanes  of  water,  which  neces.sarily  entailed  repeated 
separations  of  the  party,  but  at  5.20  p.  m.  the  first  boat,  in  charjje  of  Lieutenant  Kockwood, 
reached  shore,  followed  by  the  last  party  under  myself  two  hours  later.  The  land  appeared  to 
be  a  point  immediately  .south  of  Lefiert  (Uacier,  several  miles  above  Wade  Point.  It  received 
from  me  the  name  of  K.skimo  Point,  owinjj  to  the  discovery  of  permanent  habitation  in  pa.st 
years  of  this  point  by  the  K.skimo. 

On  the  30th  I  .sent  Corporal  Salor  and  Eskimo  Chri.stiansen  to  visit  the  cape  on  the  .south 
%i(\c  of  Ros.sc  Bay,  which  they  were  unable  to  reach,  owinjj  to  a  lane  of  water,  half  a  mile  wide, 
off  the  cape.  They  were  once  on  the  movinjj  pack  and  escaped  with  difficulty.  Antic'palinjj;, 
however,  that  Corporal  Salor  would  reach  the  cape,  orders  were  issued  to  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood  to  prepare  for  a  trip  with  the  twelve-man  sledfje  to  Cape  Sabine  on  October  i,  but  Cor- 
poral Salor's  report,  showinji;  sledpe  travel  to  be  impracticable,  compelled  me  to  countermand 
the  order.  Serjjeant  Rice  llun  volunteered  for  an  attempt  to  reach  Cape  Sabin^-  on  foot,  taking 
Jens  and  a  one-man  sleepinji;-ba^,  into  which  the  two  could  crowd.  Records  were  prepared 
for  the  cairn  at  Hrevoort  Island,  and  detailed  instructions  were  ji[iven  to  him  for  this  trip.  He 
cros.sed  to  Ro.sse  Bay  over  Alfred  Newton  Glacier,  which  was  discovered  to  be  practicable  by 
Lieutenant  Ki.slinj^bnry  while  hnntiufj. 

On  October  2,  a  site  havinjj  been  .selected  just  .south  of  Alfred  Newton  (ilacier  for  build- 
ing, the  party  was  moved  over  and  the  work  of  •"nter  quarters  commenced,  it  being  too  late 
in  the  sea.son  to  delay  longer,  as  the  sun  would  quit  us  in  about  three  weeks. 

Every  effort  was  made  to  obtain  game,  four  of  the  party  being  detailed  as  hunters,  but  in 
the  twelve  days  we  were  at  that  point  only  one  .seal  was  obtained. 

On  the  2d  we  had  rations  remaining  for  thirty-five  days,  ba.sed  on  an  allowance  of  ten 
ounces  of  bread,  sixteen  ounces  of  meat,  and  two  ounces  of  potatoes  daily.  After  a  general 
consultation,  I  decided  to  make  thes?  rations  last  fifty  days.  This  measure  was  decided  on 
contrary  to  the  advice  of  my  surgeon,  who  would  not  commit  himself  to  the  reconnnendation 
of  any  definite  reduction.  This  course,  while  perhaps  a  wi.se  one  for  a  medical  officer,  on  strict 
profes.sional  grotmds,  was  exceedingly  embarrassing  to  the  commanding  officer. 

On  October  3  the  building  of  three  winter  huts  commenced.  The  covering  of  one  house 
was  to  consist  of  our  boat  and  two  lots  of  canvas.  The  boat  was  dispo.sed  of  by  choice  and 
fell  to  the  lot  of  Sergeant  Brainard's  party.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  party  was  allowed  to 
have  first  choice  of  the  canvas,  so  that  the  remaining  lot  fell  to  the  party  which  quartered  with 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  myself  By  October  8  the  huts  were  in  habitable  condition,  the 
roofs  having  been  covered  with  moss,  and  a  considerable  quantity  collected  for  the  beds. 

On  the  4th,  in  accordance  with  the  doctor's  advice,  the  ration  was  increased  slightly,  to 
four  ounces  of  pemniican,  eight  ounces  of  bread,  and  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  potatoes,  which 
was  continued  until  the  extreme  hard  work  connected  with  the  building  of  the  .stone  huts  was 
through  with. 

The  general  conduct  of  the  party  dtiring  the  exhausting  labor  necessary  in  constructing 
stone  huts,  as  well  as  during  our  dangerous  drift  on  the  ice-pack,  was  exceedingly  creditable. 
It  was  but  natural  that  great  physical  sufferings  from  lack  of  proper  shelter,  continued  exces- 
sive work,  and  insufficient  food  should  react  on  the  mind  and  cause  murmurs  and  discontent, 
which  at  times  broke  into  indiscreet  remarks  and  reflection.s.  This  impropriety  was  only  on 
the  part  of  few  members,  and  as  detailc<l  in  the  attached  journals  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
(written  in  shorthand  at  the  time)  and  {Sergeant  Brainard.  P'ortunalely  the  party  as  a  whole 
was  never  otherwise  than  subordinate  and  united.  Such  subordination  and  united  action  had 
H.  Mis.  393 5 


66 


TBE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


been  our  safety  in  live  hundred  miles  travel,  which  had  ended  in  our  party  of  twenty-five 
landing  in  health  and  strength,  with  records  and  instruments  safe,  on  the  barren  coast  of  Elles- 
niere  Land.  This  courage,  good  behavi<~r,  and  loyalty  may  seem  theoretically  a  matter  of 
course  in  the  connnon  interest,  which  could  be  subserved  only  by  unity  and  harmony,  but 
when  death,  starvation,  and  great  continued  suffering  impend,  the  temptation  for  the  strong 
to  appropriate  all  and  sacrifice  the  weak  is  certainly  verj'  great. 

The  9th  of  October  was  an  eventful  day  to  the  party  ;  Sergeant  Rice  returned,  bringing 
us  !:ows.  He  brought  the  record  of  Lieutenant  Garlington,  dated  July  24  (Appendix  No.  106), 
which  informed  us  of  the  sinking  of  the  Proteus  on  July  23,  and  that  Lieutenant  Garlington 
and  her  crew  had  gone  to  the  east  coast  to  communicate  with  the  U.  S.  S.  Yanlic  or  a  Swe- 
dish steamer.  Rice  discovered  three  caches — the  English  one  of  two  hundred  and  forty  rations, 
the  Beebe  cache  of  two  hundred  and  forty  rations  (aggregating  four  hundred  and  eighty  rations), 
and  the  wreck  cache,  which,  from  Lieutenant  Garlington's  report,  contained  five  hundred 
rations  of  bread,  sleeping-bags,  tea,  and  a  lot  of  canned  goods.  The  record  further  said : ' '  Cache 
on  Littleton  Island  and  boat  at  Cape  Isabella."  The  words  "two  hundred  and  fifty  rations" 
contained  in  Lieutenant  Garlington's  copy  as  furnished  to  the  Proteus  co\xx\.  of  inquiry,  were 
not  in  the  original  record. 

The  modification  of  Lieutenant  Garlington's  record  is  referred  to,  as  the  record  left  had 
an  important  bearing  upon  my  subsequent  action.  The  record  informed  me  of  the  disaster  to 
the /V<Vr«j  and  of  Lieutenant  Garlington's  positive  assurance  that  ''''everything  ivithin  the 
pozcer  0/ man  to  rescue^''  my  party  "would"  be  done.  His  declaration  that  he  left  for  the  east 
coast  to  endeavor  to  open  up  communication,  and  pointed  out  that  if  the  Yantic  failed  him  a 
Swedish  steamer  was  possible,  were  construed  as  conveying  to  me  in  the  strongest  terms  his 
fi.xed  detennination  to  return  to  Cape  Sabine  if  either  steamer  was  fallen  in  with,  and  that  I 
could  look  to  him  for  relief.  Two  courses,  only,  were  open  to  me  ;  one  to  proceed  to  Cape 
Sabine,  await  possible  assistance  thus  promised,  and  if  it  did  not  come  to  cross  to  Littleton 
Island  by  sledge  as  soon  as  the  channel  should  close. 

Those  who  are  inexperienced  in  the  varying  phases  of  Arctic  ice  conditions  cannot  clearly 
understand  why  Smith  Sound,  crossed  in  whale-boats  during  July,  should  be  impas.sable  for 
similar  boats  in  October.  In  July,  with  its  ever  present  sun.  Smith  Sound  is  generally  an 
open  sea  free  from  ice,  but  in  October,  1883,  it  was  filled  with  floes  and  ground-up  ice,  contin- 
ually driven  about  by  heavy  tides  and  severe  storms,  while  the  scant  six-hour  sun  of  October 
loth  disappeared  entirely  for  the  winter  only  sixteen  days  later. 

Our  experience  of  the  previous  thirty  days  had  shown  the  impossibility  of  then  crossing 
the  upper  part  of  Smith  Soixnd,  owing  not  only  to  the  large  quantities  of  heavy  ice  moving 
southward,  but  particularly  on  account  of  the  prevalence  of  rubble  and  slush  ice,  among 
which  young  ice  was  continually  fonning,  which  would  neither  permit  the  passage  of  a  boat 
nor  bear  the  weight  of  a  man. 

Our  experiences  had  been  somewhat  similar  to  those  of  naval  expeditions  under  like  con- 
ditions. The  drift  party  of  the  Polaris  had  been  unable  in  that  channel,  and  in  sight  of  that 
very  spot,  to  make  land,  but  a  few  miles  distant,  failing,  says  the  official  narrative,  "despite  the 
most  persistent  efforts."  On  the  east  coast  of  Greenland  the  crew  of  the  Hansa,  in  January, 
1870,  had  been  unable  to  reach  shore,  but  two  miles  distant,  although  their  lives  appeared  to 
depend  on  their  success.  * 


*The  following  extracts  from  the  report  of  celebrated  and  successful  Arctic  travelers,  Sir  John  Richardson,  Dr.  John  Rae, 
and  l.icut.  Sherard  Osborn,  R.  N.,  are  added,  as  illustrations  of  Arctic  boat  experiences  under  conditions  by  no  means  »<<  iles- 
perate  as  the  crossing  of  Smith  Sound  in  October,  1883. 

Richardson,  in  1848,  with  Rae,  was  unable  to  cross  Dolphin  Slrait,  and  thus  comments  (page  178,  Arctic  Searching  Voyage) ; 

"  It  (the  young  ice)  did  not  exceed  an  inch  in  thickness,  but  *  «  *  did  not  crack  readily,  while  *  »  »  it  was  hard 
enough  to  cut  the  planks  of  the  boats  through,  rendering  them  scarcely  seaworthy,  though  we  had  strengthened  them  on  the 
water-line  with  sheets  of  tin  beate.  ^ut  of  the  pemmican  cans.     In  dragging  ihem  over  the  floes  they  were  much  shattered. 


iZsmmmnm 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


67 


Two  months  before,  to  a  day,  a  powerful  vessel  of  the  navy  had  been  forced  out  of  the 
lower  and  less  dangerous  position  of  this  sound,  owing  to  the  dangers  of  its  navigation.  By 
extraordinary  exertions  and  fortunate  circumstances  we  had  been  able  to  make  land  twelve 
miles  off  without  sacrificing  as  did  one  of  these  parties  their  entire  scientific  collection. 

In  consequence  of  this  condition  of  affairs,  a  movement  to  Cape  Sabine  meant  a  permanent 
camp  txntil  relief  could  come  by  vessel  that  autumn,  or  the  straits  freezing  over  pennit  crossing 
by  sledge.  The  second  course  was  to  turn  our  faces  homeward,  and,  taking  the  second  boat  at 
Cape  Isabella,  push  southward  to  Clarence  Head  along  the  west  coast,  and  from  that  point 
attempt  the  Cary  Islands,  where  we  would  be  safe,  or,  the  ice  conditions  precluding  that 
course,  in  desperate  strait  push  still  southward  in  the  hopes  of  being  able  to  cross  Jones  and 
Lancaster  Sounds  and  reach  Pond  Inlet. 

Smith  Sound  from  Isabella  southward  opens  like  a  fan,  so  that  necessarily  the  ice  spread- 
ing in  early  fall  leaves  large  water  spaces,  which  freeze  over  at  a  very  late  date,  if  at  all. 
During  our  stay  at  Eskimo  Point  the  ice  had  frequently  opened  up  so  that  a  voyage  could 
have  been  made  by  boat  to  the  southward,  and  by  ship  across  Smith  Sound  to  the  eastern 
shore.  As  far  north  as  Cape  Isabella,  Smith  Sound  was  navigable  for  ships  most  of  the  time 
until  after  November  4.  In  short,  the  ice  was  a  pack,  changing  with  every  wind  and  tide, 
which  was  fringed  with  young  and  slush  ice,  though  in  general  not  of  a  very  heavy  character. 

The  prevailing  sentiment  of  the  party  plainly  favored  a  movement  to  Cape  Sabine,  where 
all  possible  help  was  pledged,  and  I  decided,  on  my  own  responsibility,  to  move  to  that  point, 
reluctantly  turning  my  back  to  the  southern  trip  which  might  have  involved  the  entire 
destruction  of  the  party  or  have  secured  its  ultimate  safety.  Had  I  been  plainly  told  that 
harmony  did  not  prevail  in  the  Proteus  party,  that  there  were  no  rations  for  a  winter  at  Lit- 
tleton Island,  and  that  the  Yantic  was  a  fair-weather  ship,  not  equipped  for  an  Arctic  winter, 
I  should  certainly  have  cached  my  instruments  and  records  and  chosen  the  dangerous  journey 
to  the  southward.  Going  to  Cape  Sabine  necessarily  rendered  tlie  four  boats  within  our  reach 
of  no  benefit  to  us,  but  in  the  southern  trip  they  would  have  been  invaluable.  Sergeant  Rice 
further  reported  that  Cape  Sabine  was  on  an  island  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  strait, 
which  I  have  named  Rice  Strait. 


"  At  noon"  (after  only  half  a  day  of  such  experience),  continues  Richardson,  "  findini;  that  we  could  not  advance  farther 
in  the  present  condition  of  the  ice,  without  pulling  the  boats  to  pieces,  we  encamped." 

Then,  after  consultation  with  Mr.  Rae,  Richardson  abandoned  his  boats. 

Elsewhere  (page  178)  he  says:  **  It  was  on  this  cape  (Krusenstern)  that  Mr.  Rae  spent  a  month  of  the  following  summer 
(1849),  anxiously  watching  for  an  opening  in  the  ice,  by  which  he  might  cross  to  Douglas  Island  (ten  miles  distant)  and  Wollaston 
Land." 

From  Dr.  Rae's  report  (pp.  31 2, 313).  same  volume,  we  learn  that  he  (Rae)  waited  twenty  days  (from  July  30  to  August  19, 
1849)  at  Cape  Krusenstern  (68°  25'  N.)  for  an  opportunity  of  crossing  Dolphin  Strait  to  Wollaston  Land.  On  .Vugust  19  he  had 
water  to  within  three  miles  of  Douglas  Island,  "  when,"  says  Rae,  "  we  came  to  a  stream  of  ice,  so  close  packeii  and  so  rough 
that  we  could  neither  pass  over  nor  through  it."     Rae,  after  twenty-four  days  waiting,  abandoned  the  attempt  as  impracticable. 

This  inability  of  two  great  Arctic  travelers,  in  two  successive  years,  in  the  month  of  August  even,  to  cross  a  strait  only  half 
as  wide  as  the  narrowest  part  of  Smith  Sound,  speaks  for  itself  of  the  almost  insuperable  character  of  boat  navigation  after  new 
ice  begins  to  form. 

Sir  George  Nares,  R.  N.,  in  his  testimony  on  Arctic  matters,  ((uoted,  in  no  captious  spirit,  Rae's  experience. 

Lieut,  (afterwards  Admiral)  Shcrard  Osborn,  R.  N.,  who  commanded  an  Arctic  searching  ship  (|)agc  3,  "  Stray  Leaves 
from  an  Arctic  Journal),  says:  "On  the  5th  (October,  1850),  Lieutenant  Aldrich  returned  from  his  journey.  He  had  not  been 
able  to  go  beyond  Somerville  Island,  the  sea  between  it  and  Lowthcr  Island  \x\'cvg^cos'atA\<\\}ci  broken,  packed  ice,  half -frozen 
sluJge,  and  young  ice." 

The  italics  arc  Osborn's,  and  evidence  his  opinion  that  boat  navigation  under  such  conditions  (identical  with  those  which 
existed  in  Smith  Sound  October,   1883)  was  impossible. 

Capt.  Sir  John  Ross,  R.  N,,  in  1832  abandoned,  as  ho|>cless,  the  crossing  of  I'rince  Regent  Inlet  on  September  24,  although 
the  lives  of  his  party  ajiparently  depended  on  it.  This  inlet,  as  diflicult  of  crossing  by  boat  as  Smith  Sound,  is  over  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  to  the  south  of  Cape  Sabine. 

This  note  is  added,  not  to  appease  that  worthless  criticism  which  every  official  must  expect  from  persons  unqualified  by 
•  experience  though  always  ready  to  pass  judgment  on  any  topic,  but  to  satisfy  the  intelligent,  thinking  men,  who  naturally  desire 
to  leant  what  success  men  who  are  sailors  by  pro''ession  have  met  with  under  similar  circumstances. 


68 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  whale-boat,  abandoned  September  12,  had  with  its  floe  drifted  down  and  caught  be- 
tween Cape  Sabine  and  Brevoort  Island,  where  it  was  safe  and  uninjured. 

Fast-falling  snow  on  the  loth  prevented  the  party  moving.  Sergeant  Rice  volunteered 
to  go  with  Eskimo  Christiansen  to  Cape  Isabella,  to  ascertain  whether  the  Yantic  had  left 
supplies  there  for  us.  Most  of  the  party  believed  that  she  must  have  done  so,  asserting  that 
no  Navy  vessel  would  have  returned  to  the  United  States  without  leaving  something  for  the 
party  on  this  coast.  The  record  at  Cape  Sabine  indicated  that  no  other  party  had  visited  that 
point  since  Lieutenant  Garlington  left,  and  I  was  necessarily  forced  to  the  conclusion  that  the 
Yantic  had  never  succeeded  in  reaching  Littleton  Island,  and  consequently  I  was  reluctant  to 
send  two  of  the  party  on  a  dangerous  and  trying  journey  to  verify  my  impression  that  one 
hundred  and  forty-four  pounds  of  English  meat  only  were  cached  at  Cape  Isabella.  However, 
I  finally  decided  to  send  them,  and  they  started  October  11,  at  the  same  time  that  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  and  party  moved  northward  with  a  portion  of  otir  load  to  be  hauled  across  the  bay, 
over  the  new  route  discovered  by  Sergeant  Rice  on  his  return  from  Cape  Sabine.  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  returned  that  evening,  and  preparations  were  made  for  the  abandonment  of  the 
camp  at  Eskimo  Point  the  next  morning. 

On  the  morning  of  the  12th  the  entire  party  started  with  all  our  supplies  hauled  on  two 
sledges,  the  temperature  being — 8.5°  [ — 22.5°  C.].  The  only  things  left  behind  were  the 
English  ice-boat  and  two  paddles,  in  perfect  condition  so  as  to  be  available  for  further  use 
if  needful.  After  seven  hours'  road  work  we  camped  at  the  point  reached  by  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  the  previous  day.  Our  load  was  so  heav\-,  and  the  party  so  weak,  that  all  were 
thoroughly  exhausted  on  reaching  camp. 

The  surgeon  and  Lieutenant  Kislingbur>'  recommended,  at  that  pohit,  the  abandonment 
of  everything  which  could  not  be  hauled  at  one  load,  predicting  that  the  party  in  their  en- 
feebled condition  could  not  do  the  work  and  reach  Cape  Sabine  at  that  time,  and  that  the  load 
could  be  brought  up  later  in  the  season,  and  also  advised  urgently  a  very  large  increase  in  the 
rations  to  forty-two  ounces  solid  food.  I  refused  to  abandon  either  records,  instruments,  or 
any  part  of  our  provisions  until  their  ultimate  safety  was  secured,  by  caching  them  on  the 
island  where  the  three  provision  depots  were  situated.  I,  however,  slightly  increased  the 
ration,  making  it  twenty-seven  and  a  half  ounces  of  food,  of  which  sixteen  were  meat. 

On  the  13th,  in  ten  hours'  work,  eight  of  which  were  on  the  road,  we  succeeded  in  cross- 
ing Rosse  Bay,  although  two  double  trips  were  necessary.  The  day  then  was  very  short,  and 
owing  to  darkness  we  could  travel  more  than  six  hours  only  with  difficulty.  On  the  i4tli,  in 
eleven  hours'  time,  we  succeeded  in  moving  our  entire  loads  to  the  north  end  of  Rice  Strait, 
about  five  miles  from  our  previous  camp,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  all  our  supplies 
on  the  island.  This  day's  work  entailed  more  than  fifteen  miles  traveling,  and  thoroughly 
exhauste  1  the  party.  We  had  now  (October  14)  lost  the  sun  for  the  winter,  owing  to  the  high 
land  south,  though  it  rose  a  few  days  longer  above  the  horizon  at  noon. 

On  the  morning  of  October  15,  caching  about  twelve  hundred  pounds,  we  started  for  the 
wreck  cache  cove.  I  preceded  the  party  with  Sergeant  Gardiner  and  Jens,  to  visit  the  cache 
and  determine  the  point  at  which  it  would  be  best  to  establish  our  winter  quarters.  I  reached 
the  cache  in  about  two  hours'  travel,  and  examined  its  contents  as  far  as  it  was  possible.  I 
was  exceedingly  disappointed  in  the  contents,  there  being  scarcely  a  hundred  rations  of  meat, 
instead  of  five  hundred,  as  I  hoped,  from  Lieutenant  Garlington' s  record.  The  record  was 
vague  on  that  point,  saying:  "There  were  five  hundred  rations  of  bread,  sleeping-bags,  tea, 
and  a  lot  of  canned  goods;  no  time  to  classify."  The  last  clause  caused  me  to  think  that 
there  must  be  a  considerable  quantity.  The  record  stated,  however,  that  Lieutenant  Garling- 
ton had  been  unable  to  reach  these  articles  of  food  again  after  caching  them. 

I  found  the  NcptiitircAc\\e  of  1882  undisturbed,  and  went  within  a  mile  of  Cape  Sabine,  exam- 
ining the  coast  for  a  good  camp.     A  careful  survey  of  the  entire  coast  made  it  evident  that  no 


Uw«SP 


THE  LAUY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


better  place  for  a  camp  existed  than  the  neck  of  land  near  the  wreck  cache.  The  sledge  party 
reached  camp  about  2  p.  m.,  having  been  delayed  over  two  hours  by  the  breaking  down  of 
their  sledge,  which  necessitated  its  repair  and  reloading. 

Sergeant  Rice  and  Christiansen  surprised  me,  an  hour  after  camping,  by  their  return. 
Rice  reported  that  he  had  visited  Cape  Isabella,  that  no  whale-boat  and  only  one  hundred  and 
forty-four  pounds  of  English  meat  could  be  found.  The  spirits  of  the  party  were  generally 
depressed  by  this  announcement,  as  the  greater  number  of  the  men  had  been  confident  that 
some  stores  must  have  been  landed  at  Cape  Isabella  by  the  Yantic.  I,  however,  had  been 
determined  since  landing  on  the  coast  to  base  our  future  only  on  provisions  actually  within 
reach,  considering  that  stores  or  game,  which  we  might  afterwards  obtain,  whether  by  our 
own  exertions  or  from  others,  would  be  extra  guarantees  for  our  ultimate  safety. 

The  rest  of  October  was  passed  in  collecting  at  our  camp  the  different  caches  along  the 
coast,  and  in  hauling  in  the  two  whale-boats.  The  bacon  mentioned  in  Lieutenant  Garling- 
ton's  record  of  August  12,  and  the  barrel  of  beef  stated  in  his  record  of  July  26  to  have  been 
left  at  Cape  Sabine,  were  never  found  by  us.  It  is  certain  that  the  barrel  of  beef  could  not 
have  been  safely  rolled  above  tide-water.  Lieutenant  Garlington's  order,  of  which  we  found 
a  copy,  directed  him  ' '  if  possible  to  examine  them  (caches)  and  replace  any  damaged  articles 
of  food,"  and  although  his  record  said  he  had  not  visited  the  English  cache,  yet  I  hoped  against 
hope  that  he  had  somehow  assurances  of  its  good  condition  and  that  it  would  prove  to  be 
entirely  serviceable.  On  bringing  it  in,  the  rum  and  alcohol  were  found  to  have  entirely  leaked 
away  or  evaporated,  the  groceries  spoiled,  and  the  four  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  bread  and 
dog-biscuit  all  moldy.  Seventy-two  pounds  of  the  latter,  only  a  mass  of  green  mold,  was 
entirely  unser\'iceab!e.  Dr.  Pavy  emphatically  declared  that  these  slimy  biscuits  were  not  only 
valueless  as  food,  but  that  their  use  would  be  absolutely  injurious  to  health,  an  opinion  in 
which  I  fully  concurred,  and  so  ordered  them  thrown  away.  However,  as  I  subsequently 
learned,  the  ravenous  condition  of  some  of  the  party  was  already  such  that,  despite  my  pos- 
itive order  and  earnest  entreaties,  they  were  all  eaten.  The  canned  meat  brought  in  was 
good,  but  the  bacon  rancid,  though  all  of  it  was  eaten  by  us  later. 

A  portion  of  the  party  were  engaged  during  this  period  in  erecting  permanent  quarters 
on  the  chosen  site,  about  half  a  mile  from  our  first  camp.  I  btiilt  on  the  only  possible  place — 
a  little  neck  of  land  between  a  fresh-water  lake,  fed  by  a  glacier  of  the  island,  and  a  cove  mak- 
ing up  from  Buchanan  Strait  about  half-way  from  Cape  Sabine  to  Cocked-Hat  Island. 

There  were  many  loose  rocks  which  could  be  cut  out  of  the  ice  or  pried  up,  and  so  were 
available  for  btiilding  purposes,  while  near  by  were  large  snow-drifts  from  which  snow  blocks 
were  obtained.  The  house  built  by  us  was  twenty-five  by  eighteen  feet  [7.6'"  by  5.485'"] 
in  the  clear,  and  its  ridge  was  formed  by  an  inverted  whale-boat,  which  rested  at  its  ends  on 
the  walls.  The  party  could  just  crowd  into  it  while  in  their  sleeping-bags,  each  man  perforce 
touching  his  neighbor.  One  could  stand  erect  only  in  the  very  center  of  the  hut.  The  com- 
missary stores  were  placed  in  a  snow-house  abutting  against  the  main  hut,  and  could  be  reached 
only  by  leaving  our  quarters.     A  plan  and  description  of  the  hut  is  in  Appendix  No.  107. 

This  work  of  collecting  the  supplies  and  building  the  house  was  of  the  most  trying  char- 
acter. The  party,  half-starved  and  indifferently  clad,  were  subjected  almost  daily  to  temper- 
atures at  or  below  zero  [ — 17.8°  C],  from  which  frequent  slight  frost-bites  resulted.  The 
ration  on  which  this  hard  work  was  done  and  severe  exposure  undergone  consisted  of  a  pound 
of  meat,  eight  ounces  of  bread,  and  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  evaporated  potatoes.  The 
detailed  conditions  of  this  work  are  briefly  set  forth  in  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  diary.  During 
this  time  Private  Long  and  the  Eskimo,  detailed  as  hunters,  were  in  the  field,  at  the  north  end 
of  Rice  Strait,  covered  only  by  canvas. 


70 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


V 


i 


i    ! 


I  \ 


I  I 


1  I 


At  the  end  of  October  I  decided  that  oiir 
of  the  smallest  living  ration.  An  inventor)' 
November  i: 

Pounds. 

Roast  beef 125^ 

English  beef 212 

Corn  beef 72 

Seal 115 

Pemmican 222^^ 

Bacon .  232 

Ueefextract 50 

Butter 93 

Lard 50 

Soup  (forty-eight  2}  [wund  cans) 120 

Bread  (very  moldy) ...1,395 

Rice . 30 

Peas  (27  cans) 42^^ 

Com  (24  cans)  . 374 

Carrots  (13  cans) 201^' 

Tomatoes  (24  cans) 60 

Raisins 40 


only  chance  of  safety  consisted  in  the  adoption 
showed  that  the  following  stores  would  be  left 

Pounds. 

Onion  pickles 80 

Cloudberries  (46  cans) — 

Milk 42 

Coffee,  extract 86 

Chocolate,  extract . 61 

Chocolate,  English  (moldy) 15 

Potatoes 76|g 

Sugar 15 

Tea 6SA 

Tea,  English  (moldy  and  wet) 74 

Salt.... li 

Pepper , } 

Onion  powder l| 

Blubber  (between  200  and  240  pounds) — 

Sealskins  (2) — 

Stearine  (fuel) 125 

Dog-biscuit  (all  moldy) 152 


In  consequence,  I  announced  to  the  party  that  I  had  decided  on  the  following  ration,  which 
would  carr>'  us  to  the  ist  of  March,  1884,  and  leave  ten  days'  rations  on  a  more  liberal  scale  for 
the  crossing  to  Littleton  Island. 

The  ration  per  man,  each  day,  consisted  of  the  following  : 


Ounces. 

Meat  4 

Extract  of  lieef . 0.26 

Evaporated  potatoes 0.4 

Soup 0.6 

Tomatoes 0.3 

Peas 0.2 

Corn 0.2 

Carrots o.l 

Bread 6 

Dog-biscuit 0.8 


Ounces. 

Butter 0.5 

Lard 0.26 

Rice 0.1 

Raisins 0.16 

Tea 0.3 

Extract  of  coffee 0.44 

Extract  of  chocolate 0.3 

Pickled  onions 0.4 

Milk 0.2 

Aggregating  14.48  ounces  (omitting  beverages). 


For  occasional  use  as  medicine  or  antiscorbutics  the  only  allowance  was:  Mulberries, 
two-tenths  ounce  weekly;  lime-juice,  small  quantity  weekly;  rum,  one-half  gill  weekly;  and 
one-fourth  of  a  lemon  weekly. 

I  requested  that  before  I  ordered  this  ration  to  be  carried  into  effect,  I  might  know  the 
opinions  of  the  various  members  of  the  party.  Dr.  Pavy  objected  very  strongly  to  the  ration 
fixed,  stating  that  he  would  vouch  his  medical  reputation  that  the  party  could  not  possibly 
live  upon  it  until  March.  Most  of  the  party,  however,  either  concurred  in  my  views  regarding 
the  matter,  or  expressed  their  willingness  to  be  satisfied  with  my  decision.  The  opinion  of 
iny  medical  officer,  put  in  such  strong  terms,  was  exceedingly  embarrassing  ;  the  more  so  as 
he  declined  to  give  a  medical  opinion  as  to  the  smallest  amoutit  on  which  the  party  could  exist. 
I  felt,  however,  that  it  was  a  case  in  which  I  must  exercise  my  own  judgment,  as  the  responsi- 
bility rested  solely  upon  me;  and  with  this  feeling  I  ordered  the  ration  to  be  fixed  at  the  figures  ■ 
given,  from  November  i,  except  in  case  of  any  sledge  party,  when  a  slightly  increased  allow- 
ance should  be  granted.  The  soundness  of  my  judgment  was  best  proved  by  the  fact  that  no 
member  of  the  party  died  of  starvation  until  six  weeks  after  the  date  fixed  for  rations  to  last, 
which  was  the  time  planned  for  our  crossing  Smith  Sound,  March  i,  1883. 

Near  the  end  of  October,  I  reluctantly  decided  that  it  would  be  advisable  to  send  to  Cape 
Lsabella  for  the  hundred  and  forty-four  pounds  of  English  meat  cached  there.     This  meat,  if 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


71 


obtained,  would  add  two-thirds  of  an  ounce  to  our  ration,  which  might  mean  life.  Sergeant 
Elison  endeavored  to  construct  a  Hudson  Bay  sledge  from  the  whale-boat,  but  was  unsuccessful, 
but  later,  cutting  down  the  six-man  sledge  to  a  four-man,  I  sent  Sergeant  Rice  and  three  others 
on  the  trip.  They  were  equipped  as  thoroughly  as  our  means  would  permit,  the  rest  of  the 
party  contributing  ever>"thing  in  their  possession,  in  the  way  of  clothing,  foot  and  hand  gear, 
which  was  needful  to  comfort.  They  left  on  November  2,  the  temperature  at  that  time  being 
nine  degrees  below  zero  [ — 22.8°  C.]. 

The  mean  temperature  for  October  was  0.96°  [—17.2°  C]  and  of  pressure  30.041  [763.03°"»]. 
These  means  are  drawn  from  observations  broken  and  irregular  consequent  on  our  situation,  but 
they  are  substantially  correct. 

NOVEMBER,  1883. 

On  the  ist  of  November  the  party  was  necessarily  divided  into  two  messes — one  under 
Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  and  the  other  under  the  commanding  officer.  This  arrangement  con- 
tinued during  the  entire  winter,  the  commanding  officer  never  interfering  with  the  internal 
arrangements  of  the  mess  of  the  other  party,  except  on  a  few  special  occasions,  when  authori- 
tative intervention  seemed  necessary  in  the  interest  of  the  expedition. 

Bread  and  meat  were  issued  daily  to  each  mess,  and  all  other  supplies  weekly.  The 
quantity  of  bread  and  meat  to  be  eaten  daily  was  determined  by  the  commanding  officer,  but 
the  arrangement  in  which  other  articles  should  be  served  out  were  left  to  the  individual 
messes.  Each  "Issue  day"  came  on  Wednesday  of  each  week.  On  Friday  a  slight  increase 
in  meat  was  made,  and  on  Sundays  the  largest  meals  of  the  week  were  served.  Sunday  was 
furtlier  marked  as  a  feast  day  by  the  issue  of  one-fourth  of  a  lemon,  a  half  gill  of  rum,  and 
about  two  ounces  of  mulberries.  These  arrangements  were  planned  by  me  with  a  view  to 
breaking  up  the  monotony  of  the  situation,  and  to  divert  the  men's  attention  from  a  rou- 
tine which  necessarily  lasted  for  over  four  months.  Beneficial  results  followed  from  such  a 
scheme,  and  during  our  months  of  suffering  no  two  days  were  exactly  alike.  The  cooking, 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  winter,  was  done  on  a  stove  constructed  by  Private  Bender  from  the 
sheet-iron  sheathing  of  the  launch. 

During  the  early  days  of  November  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  suffered  much  from  a  rupture, 
received  from  a  fall  while  engaged  in  helping  to  haul  in  our  supplies  by  sledge.  To  make 
him  more  comfortable,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Dr.  Pavy  loaned  him  the  mattress  which 
had  fallen  to  them  by  lot.  The  second  mattress,  given  me  by  common  consent  as  command- 
ing officer,  had  been  loaned  by  me  to  Sergeant  Gardiner  who  was  ill,  and  later  was  given  to 
Sergeant  Elison,  and  so  was  never  used  by  me. 

On  the  4th  of  November  regular  barometric  observations  were  commenced,  being  made 
from  a  barometer  abandoned  by  Lieutenant  Garlington  at  Cape  Sabine.  These  observations 
were  made  every  four  hours  from  7  a.  m.  to  7  p.  m.,  until  the  instrument  was  broken,  about 
three  weeks  before  the  final  rescue  of  the  party.  Gaps  in  the  record  necessarily  occurred 
towards  the  latter  part  of  the  time,  owing  to  the  diminishing  strength  and  deaths  of  the 
observers.  During  i.he  winter  months  of  total  darkness  the  thermometer  was  rarely  read, 
except  at  II  a.  m.,  as  I  was  unwilling  to  subject  any  member  of  the  party  to  unnecessary 
exposure,  even  in  the  scientific  interests  of  the  expedition. 

The  messes  alternated  in  their  order  of  cooking,  the  party  which  cooked  first  one  day 
being  the  last  the  day  following.  The  cooks  of  the  messes  necessarily  worked  together,  and 
the  most  complete  harmony  between  them  was  essential  to  economy  of  fuel.  Privates  Fred- 
erick and  Long  did  the  greater  part  of  the  cooking.  Steward  Biederbick  and  Private  Schneider 
also  served  efficiently  at  times ;  the  former  never  neglecting  while  cook  his  arduous  and  exhaust- 
ing services  as  steward.     The  greatest  credit  is  due  Frederick  and  Long  for  the  manly,  effi- 


i 


i 


I ;      {[ 


73 


THE  LADY  FllANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


dent,  and  thorough  manner  in  which  they  performed  this  onerous  and  thankless  task.  Their 
skill  and  efforts  not  only  contributed  to  the  comfort  and  satisfaction  of  the  party,  but  also 
eked  out  in  a  wonderful  manner  the  scanty  store  of  fuel.  Private  Long  did  not  assume  the 
duties  of  cook  until  after  November  8,  when  he  returned  from  Rice  Strait;  his  equipage  and 
meat  being  hauled  in  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  eight  others.  Long  had  been  in  the  field 
at  Rice  Strait  with  Christiansen  and  Jens  for  over  two  weeks,  and  they  had  succeeded  in 
killing  four  seals,  only  two  of  which  were  secured,  which  weighed  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds  gross.  The  service  of  this  hunting  party  was  arduous  in  the  extreme.  Covered 
only  by  canvas,  and  without  fire  or  sufficient  rations,  they  had  been  subjected  to  temperatures 
as  low  as  — 30°  [ — 34.4°  C.].  On  leaving  Fort  Conger  Private  Long  had  been  under  medical 
treatment,  and  was  regarded  by  the  surgeon  as  one  of  the  weakest  men.  His  services  then 
and  afterwards  showed  a  remarkable  physique  as  well  as  evidencing  great  patience,  endur- 
ance, and  determination. 

On  the  evening  of  the  return  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  party  with  Long's  outfit,  an 
extra  allowance  of  rum  was  issued  to  the  men  who  had  been  in  the  field.  Private  Schneider, 
charged  with  the  duty  of  issuing,  took  a  quantity  without  authority,  which  visibly  affected 
him.  He  quit  the  hut  while  his  supper  was  cooking,  he  being  the  cook,  and,  not  returning, 
was  sought  for  and  detected  coming  out  the  storehouse.  A  number  of  articles  had  been  pre- 
viously taken,  and  the  general  sentiment  implicated  Schneider  in  the  past  thefts.  Whether 
he  entered  the  storehouse  in  a  responsible  mental  condition  or  not,  his  taking  the  liquor  with- 
out authority  was  equally  reprehensible.  Schneider  was  severely  reprimanded,  and  impera- 
tive orders  against  any  man  entering  the  commissary  storeroom  were  issued. 

On  November  9  Lieutenant  Lockwood  discovered,  concealed  in  an  old  snow  hut,  a  can  of 
milk,  opened  but  not  disturbed.  Marks  on  the  can  showed  that  it  had  been  opened  by  a 
knife  belonging  to  Schneider,  but  which  was  at  that  time  in  Private  Henry's  possession,  having 
been  loaned  him  shortly  before.     The  impression  prevailed  that  Henry  was  the  guilty  party. 

I  was  awakened  at  midnight  of  November  9  and  10  by  footsteps,  which  proved  to  be 
those  of  Sergeant  Rice,  who  informed  me  that  Sergeant  Elison  was  dying.  I  gathered  from 
his  statement  that  three  days'  traveling  had  carried  his  party  to  the  neighborhood  of  Cape 
Isabella,  and  that,  leaving  their  bags  and  rations  in  camp,  they  visited  Isabella  and  brought  to 
camp  the  one  hundred  and  forty-four  pounds  of  English  beef  On  reaching  their  bags  and 
rations  it  was  found  that  Sergeant  Elison  was  seriously  frost-bitten,  resulting  from  his  con- 
tinued eating  of  snow,  in  handling  which  his  hands  had  become  wet  and  frozen.  After  two 
days'  efforts  to  bring  both  Elison  and  the  meat  in.  Sergeant  Rice  perceived  that  it  was  im- 
possible to  do  so,  and,  in  consequence,  the  rifle  and  meat  were  abandoned  in  Baird  Inlet,  while 
Rice,  Linn,  and  Frederick  succeeded  in  getting  Elison  to  our  old  camp  at  Eskimo  Point.  To 
save  his  life  it  became  necessary  to  cut  up  a  part  of  the  English  ice-boat  for  a  fire.  With 
great  trouble  Elison  was  thawed  out,  and  as  soon  as  he  appeared  able  to  travel  they  left  Eskimo 
Point  for  Camp  Clay.  It  was  discovered,  however,  that  Elison's  powers  of  resistance  to  cold 
were  gone,  and  he  froze  immediately  on  the  slightest  exposure.  On  reaching  the  ridge  be- 
tween Baird  Inlet  and  Rosse  Bay,  they  were  unable  to  haul  Elison  over  it.  A  violent  stonn 
prevented  them  from  cooking.  Rice  and  Frederick  decided  that  the  only  chance  of  safety  was 
in  Rice  returning  to  Camp  Clay  for  assistance,  while  Frederick  and  Linn  remained  in  the 
sleeping-bag  to  thaw  out  Elison  by  the  heat  of  their  bodies.  Rice  had  come  through  from 
Eskimo  Point  to  Camp  Clay  in  one  march  and  without  food,  except  a  bit  of  frozen  meat  eaten 
on  the  way.  He  was  almost  entirely  exhausted  on  his  arrival.  A  detailed  report  of  this 
remarkable  trip,  made  by  Sergeant  Frederick  since  our  return,  forms  Appendix  No.  108. 

Sergeant  Brainard  and  Christiansen  started  at  4.30  the  morning  of  November  10,  with 
medicines  and  stimulants  for  Elison's  relief  They  were  followed  at  6. 30  by  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood,  Dr.  Pavy,  Jens,  Sergeant  Jewell,  Privates  Ellis  and  Schneider,  with  the  twelve-man 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  liXlMODITION. 


73 


sledge.  On  the  evening  of  the  nth  Linn  and  Frederick  arrived,  reporting  Hlison  yet  alive. 
Linn  was  completely  broken  down,  but  Frederick,  though  greatly  e.xluuisted  physically,  wa.« 
in  a  wonderful  condition  considering  his  privations.  It  may  be  .said  here  that  Sergeant  Linn 
never  recovered,  mentally  or  physically,  from  the  effects  of  this  trip,  and  to  his  sufferings  on 
this  arduous  journey  I  ascribe  his  early  death. 

Sergeant  Brainard  on  reaching  the  bag  found  Frederick,  Eli.son,  and  Linn  frozen  in.  He 
was  unable  to  extricate  them  from  the  bag,  and  fed  them  in  it.  On  lieutenant  Lockwood's 
arrival,  a  few  hours  later,  the  men  were  frozen  .so  solidly  in  the  bag  that  it  became  necessary 
to  cut  it  to  pieces  with  a  hatchet  in  order  to  release  them  from  their  imprisomnent. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  party  arrived  with  Sergeant  Elison  about  lo  a.  m.  of  November 
12,  having  made  but  one  camp  during  their  aksence.  Their  march  was  a  most  extraordinary 
one,  considering  the  previous  condition  of  the  men,  the  complete  darkness,  and  the  state  of 
the  ice.     Lieutenant  Lockwood's  account  will  be  found  in  his  journal. 

This  half-starved  party  of  eight  men  made  a  round  trip  of  about  forty  miles,  in  total  dark- 
ness and  over  rough  and  heavy  ice,  in  forty-four  hours,  with  temperatures  ranging  from 
— 19°  [ —  28.3°  C]  to  — 34.5°  [ — 36.9°  C.].  The  remarkable  work  done  by  this  party  appears 
the  more  astonishing,  in  that  this  was  their  third  winter  within  the  Arctic  circle,  that  they 
had  been  on  short  rations  for  over  two  months,  and  had  been  utterly  inactive  for  the  previous 
ten  days.  In  the  most  willing  manner,  without  a  murmur,  these  men  ventured  their  lives  on 
the  mere  possibility  of  rescuing  a  comrade  whom  they  expected  to  find  dead. 

The  return  of  the  party  completed  all  sledge  work,  and  winter  routine  commenced. 

The  connnissary  storehouse  had  been  finished  about  the  15th,  and  our  stores  of  food 
were  under  lock  and  key,  which  was  a  great  relief  to  me.  While  the  stores  were  accessible 
to  every  one,  it  was  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  some  few  of  the  men,  suffering  from  terrible 
hunger,  had  been  unable  to  resist  the  temptation  to  take  a  piece  of  bread  or  some  other  food. 

On  the  20th  the  meat  and  bread  rations  were  reduced  a  fraction  of  an  ounce,  which  was 
done  in  order  to  grant  an  extra  allowance  to  Sergeant  Elison.  The  recommendation  of  my 
surgeon  to  increase  Elison's  food  very  largely  could  not  be  complied  with  in  justice  to  the 
rest  of  the  men.  I,  however,  set  aside  several  cans  of  milk,  and  nearly  all  of  our  sugar,  for  the 
sick  man's  benefit,  and  gave  him  daily  ten  ounces  extra  of  bread  and  two  ounces  of  meat ; 
counting  on  five  pounds  of  extract  of  beef  in  the  medical  supplies  to  eke  out  this  extra 
allowance.  A'  '  -gh  this  extra  allowance,  granted  by  me  as  commanding  officer,  gavQ  Elison 
twice  the  food  .  any  other  man  received  yet  no  demur  or  opposition  was  ever  made  to 
my  action.  The  feeling  seemed  general  that  Elison's  helpless  condition,  having  been  brought 
about  in  our  interest,  should  of  right  claim  certain  sacrifices  on  our  part. 

Several  foxes  were  shot  during  November,  and  others  later  during  the  winter.  Twenty- 
four  in  all  were  killed  at  Camp  Clay,  which  gave  us  about  ninety  pounds  of  extra  meat  during 
the  five  months,  and  just  about  coimterbalanced  the  loss  in  subsistence  supplies  which  resulted 
from  the  unfortunate  issue  of  the  expedition  to  Cape  Isabella. 

To  break  the  monotony  of  our  winter  routine  I  commenced  on  November  17  daily 
lectures  on  the  physical  geog-aphy,  the  history,  the  resources,  etc.,  of  the  United  States  in 
general  and  the  States  in  detail.  The  natives  of  any  State  generally  supplemented  my  own 
knowledge.  This  arrangement  occupied  about  two  hours  daily,  and  was  continued  throughout 
the  winter,  being  omitted  only  on  days  when  some  other  means  of  diverting  the  mind  were 
adopted  for  a  change.  Readings  were  given  nearly  every  evening,  which  lasted  from  one  to 
two  hours.  Although  illy  able  to  spare  the  small  quantity  of  seal-oil  needful  for  the  miserable 
light  used  at  such  times,  yet  it  is  impossible  to  doubt  that  in  no  other  way  could  so  much  benefit 
come  from  it  to  the  party.  Later  in  the  winter  Dr.  Pavy  gave  many  very  interesting  lectures 
on  various  subjects,  physiology,  etc. 


'' 


t 
& 


74 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


November  29,  the  last  Thursday  in  the  month,  was  set  apart  as  a  day  of  Thanksgiving  and 
Praise.  It  was  celebrated  by  the  addition  to  unr  scanty  ration  of  certain  stores  reserved  by 
nic  for  the  day.  High  spirit:,  and  general  goo<l  frcling  prevailed  throughout  the  day,  and 
Sergeant  Eli.son,  for  tlic  first  time  I  think,  took  a  new  interest  in  life. 

November  ended  with  a  storm  and  a  temperature  of  +3"  [ — 16. i°C.];  the  first  time 
above  zero  [ — 17.8°  C]  in  the  month.  The  party  at  that  time  were  in  good  health,  though 
several  had  suffered  much  from  constipation. 

By  the  last  of  the  month  the  party  had  a  full  realization  of  what  an  Arctic  winter,  of  four 
snnle.ss  months,  in  a  miserable  stone  hut,  with  inadequate  food  and  clothing,  meant.  The 
disposition  to  bear  their  ills  without  discontent  was  particularly  noticeable  in  the  party.  The 
ice  had  already  covered  the  inside  of  our  roof,  frost  several  inches  thick  had  formed  on  the 
interior  of  the  walls,  and  our  sleeping  bags, without  exception,  were  frozen  to  the  ground. 
Consequently  there  was  great  and  continued  suffering  from  cold,  which  made  .sleep  difficult 
and  so  intensified  our  miseries.  Equital)le  distribution  of  the  blankets  and  other  coverings 
had  been  made,  but  several  complained  bitterly.  I  deemed  it  needful  for  example,  to  strip 
my  own  sleeping  bag,  and,  later,  that  of  Sergeant  Rrainard,  for  the  benefit  of  others. 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  month  was  —  21.8°  [ — 29.  9°C.],  with  a  maximum  of  -1-3° 
[ — 16.1°  C]  on  the  31st,  and  a  minimum  of  — 43.5°  [ — 4i.9°  C]  on  the  27th. 

Tlie  mean  pressure  was  29.803  [756.99"""]. 

DECEMBER,  1883. 

December  passed  ver\'  much  as  did  November.  It  was  marked,  however,  by  the  preva- 
lence of  severe  gales,  which  were  extremely  trying  to  us,  not  only  physically  but  morally 
owing  to  the  certainty  that  Smith  Sound  must  necessarily  remain  oj)en  during  the  prevalence 
of  such  high  winds. 

The  water-hole  in  the  lake  was  kept  open  with  extreme  difficulty,  and  on  two  occasions 
I  fotnid  it  necessary  to  assist  in  opening  it.  In  general,  the  manual  labor  of  obtaining  ice, 
removing  slops,  etc.,  was  spared  me,  owing  to  mental  work  and  trying  responsibility. 

Sergeant  Elison's  condition  improved  very  much,  and  at  one  time  the  doctor  believed 
that  both  feet  would  be  saved  and  a  part  of  his  hands.  On  December  29  we  commenced 
melting  ice,  over  the  blubber  lamp,  for  the  dressing  of  Elison's  wounds. 

After  the  2ist  of  December  had  passed,  the  spirits  of  the  party  seemed  to  improve,  although 
they  never  could  be  called  bad  at  any  time. 

Christmas  was  celebrated  in  the  same  manner  as  "Thanksgiving  Day,"  by  the  addition 
of  certain  supplies  specially  reserved  by  me  for  that  day.  The  day  was  marked  by  a  feeling 
of  kindly  fellowship  and  an  exhibition  of  Christian  spirit  which  was  wonderful. 

The  most  unfortunate  experience  of  the  month  for  me  was  the  detection,  on  December  3, 
of  Dr.  Pavy  purloining  the  extra  food  of  Sergeant  Elison.  The  detection  occurred  when  the 
party  were  asleep  and  in  total  darkness,  and  Dr.  Pavy  was  ignorant  that  I  knew  of  his  action. 
That  a  phy.sician  should  treat  a  helpless  patient  thus  would  be  trying,  but  to  feel  that  the 
surgeon  of  the  expedition  should  so  fail  in  his  duty  to  the  men  and  his  commanding  officer 
was  exceedingly  depressing,  and  gave  me  great  mental  anxiety.  I  communicated  my  knowl- 
edge of  this  fact  only  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  as  my  successor  in  command,  and  to  Sergeant 
Brainard,  feeling  that  an  open  charge  would  only  result  in  a  denial  and  bitter  discussion.  The 
importance  of  the  doctor's  services  to  us  at  that  time  was  manifest  to  the  entire  party.  Nearly 
every  one  but  myself  had  been  treated  medically  since  reaching  Sabine,  and  the  demand  for 
medicine  and  medical  treatment  was  continually  increasing.  Whether  right  or  wrong,  I  felt 
the  necessity  of  pursuing  conciliatory  methods  entirely  with  a  man  from  whose  skill  and 
knowledge  was  expected  such  alleviation  of  the  party's  miseries  as  our  medicines  pennitted. 


M 


TUB  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


75 


The  mean  temperattire  of  the  month  was  —21.2°  [—29.6°  C],  with  a  maximum  of 
F5°  [—15°  C]  on  the  5th,  and  a  minimum  of —  39.5°  [—39-7°  C]  on  the  27th. 
The  mean  pressure  was  29.903  [759.53"""]. 


JANUARY,  1884. 

January  i  was  the  earliest  day  on  wliich  any  marked  signs  of  weakness  were  evident  to  me. 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Sergeant  Cross  both  showed  to  me  on  tliat  day  signs  of  failing.  On 
the  2d  Elison's  right  foot  was  cut  off,  or  rather  the  shreds  which  held  it  to  the  ankle  were 
separated.  Sergeant  Elison  remaining  in  ignorance  of  the  loss  of  his  foot  for  several  months. 

On  the  2d  three  pounds  of  seal-blubber  was  used  for  a  nnich-debated  experiment  for  cook- 
ing— the  only  blubber  used  for  the  purpose. 

On  the  3d  Sergeant  Brainard  reported  to  me  that  the  roof  of  the  commissary  had  been  cut 
and  a  small  bit  of  bacon  taken,  and  on  the  7th  the  discovery  was  made  that  a  hole  had  been 
made  in  a  barrel  of  bread,  on  the  outside,  and  a  pound  or  more  taken.  About  this  time  a 
small  piece  of  bacon  was  taken  from  the  general  mess-stores  of  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's 
party,  and  I  learned  that  during  the  night  somebody  had  been  in  the  habit  of  scraping  out  the 
seal  oil  and  eating  it.  All  efforts  to  discover  the  man  guilty  of  these  practices  were  fruitless, 
but  every  one,  Mrithout  exception,  deplored  and  condemned  them.  This  state  of  feeling  evi- 
denced the  general  desire  for  equitable  division,  but  also  showed  that  starvation  had  such  a 
hold  as  to  render  the  resistance  to  the  temptation  to  take  a  bit  of  food  almost  irresistible. 

Elison's  birthday  was  celebrated  on  the  12th  by  an  allowance  to  him  of  an  extra  half  gill 
of  rum,  which  cheered  him  greatly. 

The  doctor  that  day  reported  the  mouths  of  Cross,  Schneider,  Linn,  and  Ellis  as  indica- 
ting a  possible  touch  of  scurvy,  and,  in  accordance  with  the  surgeon's  recommendations,  I 
forbade  the  smoking  of  tea  or  other  substances  than  tobacco. 

Our  first  death  was  on  the  i8th  when  Sergeant  Cross  died;  he  was  buried  on  the  19th. 
The  burial  service  was  read  in  the  house  to  save  long  exposure  to  low  temperature,  the 
mercury  being  frozen,  and  later  I  accompanied  the  body  to  the  grave.  Lieutenant  Kisling- 
bury  and  six  others  dragged  the  body,  covered  by  the  American  flag,  to  the  summit  of  an 
adjoining  hill,  where  the  grave  was  prepared.  No  salute  was  fired,  as  it  was  thought  advis- 
able to  save  the  ammunition  for  hunting.  The  cause  of  Cross's  death,  as  announced  to  the 
party,  was  water  arotmd  the  heart.  The  fact  that  this  was  induced  by  insufficient  food,  and 
that  he  had  very  marked  signs  of  scurvy,  was  known  only  to  a  few. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood's  condition  during  the  month  gave  me  a  great  deal  of  anxiety,  it 
being  evident  that  he  was  in  a  very  critical  state.  He  was  very  feeble,  quite  frequently  saw 
everything  double,  and  was  in  an  extremely  weak  condition  of  mind,  which  at  times  bordered 
very  decidedly  on  childishness.  In  accordance  with  the  doctor's  instructions  he  was  forbidden 
to  smoke,  on  the  ground  that  tobacco  injured  him. 

On  the  15th  the  water  from  the  lake  gave  out.  A  hole  ctit  with  great  difficulty  to  the 
bottom  of  the  lake  gave  but  a  small  quantity  of  sea-water.  For  some  time  we  had  tried  to 
delude  ourselves  with  the  idea  that  the  water  obtained  from  the  lake  was  fresh,  but  were  finally 
forced  to  the  conclusion  that  the  lake  was  largely  supplied  from  the  sea,  and  that  we  were 
drinking  sea-water  slightly  ireshened  from  ice  and  snow.  The  necessity  of  melting  ice  obliged 
me  to  reduce  the  quantity  of  tea  one-half.  This  deprivation  was  a  great  one  for  many  of  the 
party  and  depressed  them  somewhat.  For  the  benefit  of  others  who  suffered,  I  occasionally 
melted  ice  in  a  rubber  bag  by  the  heat  of  my  body,  and  urged  others  to  do  the  same. 

Sergeant  Brainard's  private  reports  as  to  how  the  estimated  bags  of  bread  were  running 
enabled  me  on  the  19th  to  increase  the  bread  half  an  ounce  daily.  This  announcement  in  a 
manner  counterbalanced  the  depressing  influence  of  Cross's  death. 


76 


THE  LADY  FUANKUN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I        i 


»\i  / 


pi 


il:i 


1   '' 

f: 


On  the  22d  Urainard  discovered  that  twelve  cans  of  milk  hadl)een  stolen,  undoubtedly  in 
November,  before  tiie  lock  and  ke>  was  put  on  the  commissary.  Tlierc  was  an  intense  feeling 
nmon^  the  party  over  this  news.  To  counteract  the  depression  caused  by  the  loss  of  the  milk, 
I  increased  the  issue  of  seal-blubber  slijfhtly,  so  that  thereafter  the  weekly  ration  for  each 
man  was  eleven  oimces  of  blubber  and  fifty-seven  of  bread.  This  action  had  an  exceedingly 
good  effect  upon  the  party,  and  produced  almost  incredible  joy  and  pleasure. 

On  the  22d  Privates  Henry  and  Bender  v;ere  insubordinate  and  insolent  in  their  language, 
the  first  instance  of  such  a  spirit  on  the  part  of  the  enlisted  nien. 

Gardiner's  birthday  on  the  22d  and  Biederbick's  on  the  25th  were  celebrated  by  an  allow- 
ance to  each  of  a  half  gill  of  rum. 

On  the  22d  the  mattress  which  Lieutenant  Lockwood  had  nearly  three  months  Ix'fore 
loaned  to  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  owing  to  illness,  was  returned  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  on 
account  of  his  weak  condition. 

On  the  26tli  I  forbade  the  party  eating  tea-leaves,  as  the  doctor  thought  such  habit  inju- 
rious in  our  condition;  but  few  of  the  party  had  persistently  indulged  in  the  practice. 

Kxtra  rations  commenced  on  January  26th  for  Sergeant  Rice  and  Eskimo  Jens,  to  strengthen 
them  for  their  proposed  trip  to  Littleton  Island  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  the  ice  and  obtain 
assistance  from  the  party  suppo.sed  to  have  wintered  there.  They  were  given  sixteen  ounces 
daily  of  bread,  sixteen  of  meat,  and  four  ounces  of  .seal-blubber.  Private  Frederick  com- 
menced on  the  28th  to  enlarge  a  single-man  sleeping-bag  and  put  it  i:i  co!nfortable  condition 
so  it  could  be  used  by  Rice  and  Jens  in  crossing.  The  last  days  in  January  w{  re  occupied  by 
me  in  copying  our  meteorological  records  and  in  writing  letters  to  Lieutenant  (.iarlington,  the 
Chief  Signal  Officer,  and  others,  to  be  carried  to  Littleton  Island. 

An  occasional  extraordinary  allowance  of  half  an  ounce  of  bread  or  meat  was  i.ssued  to 
the  party  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  always  with  marked  benefit  to  eacU  mentally,  if  not 
physically.  The  month  ended  with  the  party  in  excelletit  spirits.  Lieutenant  Lockwootl  was 
ver>'weak,  Ellis  and  Jewell  very  despondent,  and  Eskimo  Jens  complaining. 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  month  was  —  28. 3°  [ — 33- 5°]i  with  a  maximum  of  — 6° 
[ — 21.1°  C]  on  the  31st  and  a  minimum  of  — 42.0°  [ — 41.1°  C.J  on  the  19th  and  20th. 

The  mean  pressure  was  29.831  [757.70"""]. 

FEBRUARY,  1884. 

On  Febniary  i,  owing  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  weakness,  I  decided  to  issue  him  daily 
an  ounce  of  bread  extra  and  an  ounce  of  meat,  and  also  increased  the  allowance  of  the  party 
generally,  by  a  half  ounce  of  bread  daily. 

Bender,  on  the  ist,  evinced  an  insubordinate  disposition  and  refused  to  obey  my  orders, 
when  I  interfered  to  stop  an  extremely  violent  and  bitter  discussion  between  him  and  another 
of  the  men.  In  consequence  he  was  ordered  out  of  the  hut,  with  instructions  not  to  return 
until  he  was  willing  to  comply  with  my  orders.  An  hour's  exposure  in  the  cold  air  of  the 
outer  passage  was  scarcely  sufficient  to  conquer  his  unnily  spirit. 

On  February  2  Sergeant  Rice  and  Eskimo  Jens  left  for  Littleton  Island.  They  had  re- 
ceived for  the  previous  week  twenty-six  ounces  extra  of  solid  food,  and  announced  themselves 
to  be  in  good  condition  on  leaving.  They  had  six  days'  rations,  on  the  .scale  of  one  pound  of 
pemraican,  one-fourth  pound  of  blubber,  one  three-fourths  pound  of  bread,  two  ounces  of  rum, 
and  six  ounces  of  fuel  alcohol.  A  small  cooking-lamp  had  been  made  by  Private  Bender, 
and  the  outfit  of  the  two  men  was  remarkalily  complete,  considering  our  circumstances.  The 
thermometer  was  read  by  twilight  at  noon  for  the  first  time,  and  the  increasing  moonlight  was 


Bi 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXPKDITION. 


counted  on  as  beinj;  of  great  assistance  in  the  crossinj^.  Serjjeant  Hniinanl  anil  I-lskiino 
Christiansen  carried  their  packs  about  a  mile  and  returned  much  exhausted.  Serjeant  Kiee 
had  about  forty  pounds  to  cai.-y  and  Jens  al)out  thirty-five. 

The  party  in  general  believed  that  Lieutenant  CJarlington  was  at  Littleton  Island  with 
ample  supplies  from  the  Yatttic^  and  consequently  they  CDunted  on  certain  hel]>.  I,  however, 
distinctly  announced  my  belief  that  Lieutenant  Garlington  did  not  land  on  his  way  north,  as 
his  record  of  departure  from  Pandora  Harlx)r  and  his  arrival  at  Payer  Harbor  could  not  have 
given  him  time.  There  was  much  di.spute  regarding  that  ix)int,  as  Lieutenant '  ..irlington's 
record,  while  assuring  us  of  a  cache  at  Littleton  Island,  did  not  .say  that  he  examined  it  or 
whether  it  was  large  or  small.  The  same  notice  a.ssured  us  of  a  whale-boat  at  Cape  Isabella, 
which,  nevertheless,  could  not  be  foimd.  After  the  Isabella  affair  I  was  more  than  ever  lui- 
willing  to  count  on  anything  not  immediately  under  my  hand. 

On  February  3  the  allowance  of  bread  was  increased  about  an  ounce;  and  on  the  same 
day  two  ounces  extra  of  lard  was  issued,  it  having  been  decided  that  it  was  not  possible  to 
use  it  all  for  dressing  Sergeant  Klison's  wounds. 

About  this  time  I  learned  that  some  of  the  men  had  been  eating  scraps  of  cocoanut- 
stearine,  remaining  from  making  caudles.  As  these  bits  were  generally  covered  with  verdigris, 
I  forbade,  positively,  any  such  thing  in  the  future. 

On  the  4th,  by  the  doctor's  advice,  I  ordered  the  men  to  keep  their  heads  outside  of  the 
sleeping-bags  during  the  day,  and  especially  enjoined  the  party  to  obey  strictly  all  instructions 
given  by  the  surgeon  regarding  the  methods  of  eating  their  food.  The  doctor  assnatl  nie  of 
Sergeant  Elison's  final  recovery  and  safe  transportation  to  Littleton  Island,  under  ordinary 
circumstances. 

On  the  4th  and  5th  Brainard,  who  had  nearly  broken  himself  down  with  hard  work,  was 
reported  by  the  doctor  to  be  in  a  dangerous  condition.  His  kidneys  and  ch';st  were  much 
troubled,  and  exposure  to  cold  or  severe  work  would  endanger  him. 

On  February  6  Sergeant  Rice  and  Jens  returned  about  2  p.  m.,  well,  but  thoroughly  ex- 
hausted, especially  the  Eskimo.  Sergeant  Rice  reported  that  open  water  extended  from  ten 
miles  off  of  Wade  Point,  and  a  mile  off  of  Brevoort  Island,  as  far  north  into  Kane  Sea  as  the 
eye  could  reach.  At  no  time  was  the  Greenland  shore  visible.  There  was  much  moving  ice 
with  dense  water-clouds  along  the  edge  of  the  fast  ice.  He  thought  he  reached  a  point  as  far 
south  as  Littleton  Island,  and  about  ten  miles  distant.  The  two  men  suffered  very  much,  as 
might  be  supposed;  the  temperature  being  from  — 18°  to  —  36°  [ —  27.8°  to  —  37.8°  C],  with 
one  severe  stonn.  The  party,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  did  not  appear  much  depressed  by  the 
unfavorable  report. 

The  ration  was  increased  slightly  on  the  7th  to  counteract  the  effect  of  Rice's  return;  the 
increase  coming  from  our  scanty  stock  of  lard  and  blubber.  This  increase  was  for  mental 
influence,  however,  and  a  couple  of  days  later  I  reduced  the  ration  of  bread  slightly,  and  in- 
formed the  party  that  on  that  scale  we  had  enough  to  last  ns  until  the  6th  of  March,  with  a 
residue  of  fifteen  days  for  crossing  the  straits,  on  a  ration  of  twelve  ounces  of  bread  and  ten  of 
pemmican. 

On  the  I  ith  a  number  of  the  men  expressed  a  strong  desire  for  water,  as  it  was  over  a  month 
since  any  of  the  party  had  had  drinking  water.  I  was  able  to  furnish  Lieutenant  Lock  wood 
a  little  from  ice  melted  by  the  heat  of  my  body,  and  encouraged  others  to  obtain  it  in  like 
way.  On  the  same  day  the  preparation  of  foot  and  hand  gear  for  crossing  the  strait  was  com- 
menced. I  being  determined  to  have  everything  in  order  for  crossing  in  case  of  Smith  Sound 
freezing  over  by  the  loth  of  March.  Private  Frederick,  though  still  the  cook,  took  general 
charge  of  the  work,  assisted  by  Private  Schneider  and  Jens.  One  of  the  men  said  he  did  not 
believe  we  would  ever  reach  Littleton  Island,  the  first  remark  of  that  kind  that  was  ever  heard. 


[I      ' 


I    -\ 


I 

f- 


hi 


73 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  rum  was  found  short  the  evening  of  the  nth;  the  calculation  being  based  on  the 
ganger's  certificate.  I  was  somewhat  worried  about  the  matter  until,  on  Sergeant  Israel's 
suggestion,  I  was  satisfied  that  the  deficit  was  caused  by  the  rum  being  issued  in  an  Eiiglish 
measure,  which  is  sliglitly  larger  than  the  American.  In  consequence  of  the  shortage,  rum 
was  issued  after  that  day  only  medically  on  prescription,  instead  of  regularly  on  Sundays. 

On  the  1 6th  Dr.  Pavy  requested  two  ounces  extra  meat  on  alternate  days  to  Sergeant 
Elison,  which  I  ordered  with  reluctance  owing  to  previous  circumstances. 

February  17th  the  sun  was  above  the  horizon  for  the  first  time  in  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
days.     Several,  including  myself,  had  not  seen  it  since  October  13. 

Sergeant  Rice  visited  the  summit  of  the  island  on  the  i8th  and  saw  much  open  wattr 
with  many  large  floes,  which  to  the  east  appeared  to  touch  and  afford  a  possible  passage.  The 
straits  were  doubtless  wide  open,  though  we  tried  to  delude  ourselves  with  the  idea  that  they 
were  not.     Private  Long  made  his  first  trip  for  game  on  this  day,  but  saw  only  fox  tracks. 

The  19th  Privates  Bender  and  Schneider  quarreled  in  their  sleeping-bags  and  came  to 
blows — the  first  struck  in  the  expedition  ;  Bender  being  the  aggressor.  I  reproved  both  men, 
however,  and  forbade  such  a  condition  of  affairs  again. 

On  the  20th  Privates  Lotig  and  Frederick  went  hunting,  but  saw  nothing  except  a  raven; 
our  first  bird — possibly  our  neighbor  who  left  us  in  November. 

Sergeant  Ralston  was  troubled  at  this  time  with  a  felon ;  Sergeant  Jewell  and  SHward 
Biederbick  had  been  similarly  affected.  Sergeant  Gardiner's  finger,  which  had  been  disabled 
from  a  felon  nearly  ail  winter,  was  well. 

Sergeant  Rice  on  the  21st  visited  the  summit,  and  reported  that  the  ice  had  apparently 
formed  a  bridge  some  five  or  eight  miles  wide  from  Cape  Sabine  to  the  Greenland  coast.  To 
the  north  some  water  spaces  were  seen  but  to  the  south  nothing  but  open  water.  A  horse- 
shoe cur\'e  near  Cape  Napoleon  indicated  solid  ice  aear  that  point.  The  spirits  of  the  party 
were  visibly  improved  by  the  gratifying  report.  T'le  English  sledge  was  got  out  that  day  and 
put  in  order  for  crossing. 

On  the  19th  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  transmitted  to  me  (Appendix  No  109)  a  communica- 
tion recommending  the  abandonment  of  my  plan  of  crossing  with  the  entire  party,  and  that 
he  with  the  strongest  be  allowed  to  cross  to  Littleton  Island  for  game  or  assistance,  leaving 
the  weak  behind.  This  proposal  struck  me  as  an  abandonment  to  their  fate  of  the  weakest 
of  the  party.  I  brought  it  to  the  attention  of  the  men  and  informed  them  that  the  party 
could  not  be  divided  with  my  consent,  and,  as  long  as  my  authority  remained,  no  one  should  be 
deserted  or  abandoned  luitil  we  had  thoroughly  exhausted  all  efforts.  A  careful  estimate 
of  the  outfit  showed  that  we  would  have  a  ton  and  a  half  weight  to  haul  in  crossing  the 
straits,  without  counting  Lieutenant  Lockwood  who  was  unable  to  travel.  Heavy  gales  con- 
tinued for  several  days  immediately  after,  which  tried  me  very  much  mentally,  as  I  realized 
the  utter  futility  of  hoping  for  the  straits  to  freeze  over  during  such  storms. 

The  barometer  rose  1.50  inch  [38. 10"""]  in  twelve  hours  on  the  26th,  and  water  in  large 
quantities,  indeed  a  veritable  sea,  was  to  be  seen  to  the  north  of  us.  Conflicting  opinions  were 
offered  as  to  the  prospect  towards  Greenland;  some  thinking  that  a  bridge  had  formed  by  the 
ice  catching  and  others  not. 

Private  Henry's  twenty-eighth  birthday  was  celebrated  by  giving  iiim  a  half-gill  of  rum. 

On  the  29th  the  small  four-man  sledge  was  brought  into  the  house  and  lashed  for  crossing. 
We  were  trying  very  hard  to  delude  ourselves  with  the  idea  that  we  should  have  an  opportunity 
for  using  the  sledge  and  foot  and  hand  gear,  which  had  been  put  in  order  for  crossing  Smith 
Soimd  to  Littleton  Island. 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  month  was  — 21.2°  [ — 29.6°  C],  with  a  maximum  of  -|-13° 
[ —  11.1°  C]  on  the  19th,  and  a  mitriinirn  of — .|2°  [ — 41.1°  C]  on  the  12th. 

The  mean  pressure  was  29.712  [754.6/"""]. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


7y 


MARCH,  1884. 

The  ist  day  of  March  brought  the  date  fixed  the  previous  autumn  for  crossing  Smith 
Sound.  We  had  lived  to  that  time  on  a  ration  declared  to  be  impossible  for  the  sustenance  of 
life,  only  to  encounter  other  misfortunes.  Smith  Sound  was  open  for  miles  from  Krevoort 
Island  to  the  eastward  and  northward,  and  the  party  were  in  such  diminished  strength  from 
five  months'  fasting,  that  the  boat  could  not  be  moved  from  the  roof  of  the  building  by  our 
united  efforts.  My  purpose  still  held  to  attempt  the  crossing  by  sledges  if  an  ice-bridge  only 
formed,  but  my  hopes  in  that  direction  weakened,  and  later  in  the  month  I  publicly  aban- 
doned all  hope  '•'*■  the  Sound  freezing  over. 

Spring  opened  with  twenty-four  living,  of  whom  twenty-two  were  yet  in  health,  though 
very  materially  reduced  in  physical  strength  from  the  small  ration.  Sergeant  Klison's  wounds 
had  healed  much,  and  suppuration  was  substantially  arrested.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  was 
very  weak,  and,  according  to  the  surgeon's  report,  his  mind  was  yet  affected. 

Two  ounces  extra  meat  were  issued  to  Elison  on  the  ist,  and  a  similar  amount  on  occa- 
sional dates  during  the  month. 

On  the  ad  the  last  milk  was  used  for  Sergeant  Elison,  and  our  variety  of  food  was  very 
materially  reduced  by  the  exhaustion  of  the  various  articles,  which  had  been  arranged  so  as 
to  last  until  March  i. 

The  3d  I  informed  the  party  that  we  could  live  on  present  supplies  until  the  early  days  of 
April,  and  that  up  to  the  16th  we  would  still  have  sufficient  food  io  eiTect  a  crossing. 

Steward  Biederbick  was  sick  on  the  4th,  the  illness  resulting  from  his  extremely  arduous 
labors  in  caring  for  Sergeant  Elison  and  the  other  sick  men  during  the  few  weeks  previous. 
The  care  of  Sergeant  Elison's  wounds  had  fallen  almost  entirely  on  Steward  Biederbeck,  who, 
throughout  the  entire  experiences  of  the  expedition,  was  most  unremitting  in  his  attention 
and  devotion  to  the  sick  and  dying  of  the  party.  No  work  was  too  arduous  or  nursing  too 
exacting  to  lessen  his  zeal  or  attention. 

From  the  6th  our  ration  consisted  of  only  four  ounces  of  meat  and  eight  of  bread.  That 
day  Private  Henry  complained  of  chest  troubles. 

Private  Long,  though  still  cook,  went  hunting  on  the  7th  as  far  as  Brevoort  Island,  but 
saw  only  two  fox  and  bear  tracks.  Sergeant  Rice  saw  two  ptarmigan  that  day,  b'lt  unfor- 
tunately was  without  a  gun.  Lieutenant  Kisliugbury,  while  hunting  on  the  stranded  floe, 
being  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  distant,  unluckily  broke  through  the  ice  and  wet  his  feet. 
He  saw  some  bear  tracks  only. 

On  the  9th  Sergeant  Rice  and  Private  Frederick  volunteered  their  services  to  attempt  the 
recovery  of  one  hundred  poinids  of  English  meat,  abandoned  in  order  to  save  Sergeant 
Elison's  life  the  previous  November  in  Baird  Inlet.  I  was  then  unwilling  and  declined  to 
allow  such  a  dangerous  trip  to  be  undertaken. 

Sergeants  Brainard  and  Rice  hunted  ptarmigan  on  the  loth,  but  saw  none.  Brainard 
had  a  fine  view  of  the  straits  from  the  summit  of  the  island,  and  reported  inimcu' e  quantities 
of  ice  to  the  eastward,  which  increased  the  chances  of  crossing,  though  my  opinion  held  that 
it  would  more  probably  be  changed  by  the  first  heavy  tide  or  high  wind. 

March  9,  I  judged  the  chances  of  crossing  to  Littleton  Island  substantially  gone,  and  so 
decided  to  send  Private  Long  and  Eskimo  Christiansen  to  Alexandra  Harbor  in  search  of 
game,  which  should  be  found  in  that  quarter,  according  to  the  observations  of  Sir  George 
Nares  in  1875,  which  showed  the  undoubted  presence  of  occasional  game.  Sergeants  Brainard, 
Long,  and  Frederick  prepared  Long's  outfit  on  the  loth,  and  they  started  on  the  nth,  a  clear, 
*  calm  morning,  the  temperature  — 19. 1°  [ — 28.4°  C  ].  Rice  and  Ellis  hauled  Long's  sledge  to 
Cocked-Hat  Island,  and  returned  much  exhausted  by  their  exertions.  Long  and  Christiansen 
were  fitted  out  as  thoroughly  as  was  possible.     They  were  allowed  as  a  field  ration  eight 


80 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


,M 


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11  ill 


ounces  of  meat,  eight  of  bread,  and  six  of  fuel  alcohol,  and  a  small  r-iantity  of  rum  and 
ammonia  for  medical  purposes.  They  were  given  three  ounces  extra  f  -  ;d  for  their  breakfast 
before  starting.  I  was  sanguine  of  some  success  from  this  trip,  owing  to  the  many  signs  of 
game  seen  by  Nares  in  1875,  and  felt  that  if  the  valley  was  of  sufficient  size  to  affiird  winter 
pasturage  for  musk-ox  and  reindeer,  our  party  would  be  saved,  as  I  well  knew  Long  was  certain 
of  securing  game  if  he  ever  saw  any. 

The  variability  of  spirits  and  the  indomitable  courage  of  the  party  were  evidenced  by 
Sergeants  Israel,  Jewell,  and  Brainard  volunteering  to  go  into  Hayes  Sound  for  geographical 
exploration  in  May,  in  case  Long  succeeded  in  obtaining  game,  and  later  the  doctor  added  his 
name.  I  talked  much  of  sending  a  party  into  that  Sound  in  May  for  the  purpose  of  explora- 
tion, more  to  encourage  the  men  than  for  any  other  purpose,  and  such  discourse  and  planning 
appeared  to  have  borne  good  fruit. 

On  the  i2th  the  sun  struck  our  hut  for  the  first  time.  It  was  the  first  day  in  five  months 
that  the  entire  party  could  have  seen  it.  During  the  day.  Sergeant  Brainard  hunted  as  far 
as  Cape  Sabine,  but  saw  only  a  fox  track.  Dense  water-clouds  prevented  any  extended  view 
of  the  straits.  Sergeant  Rice  saw  ptarmigan  tracks  on  the  13th,  and  Lieutenant  Kislingbury 
followed  them  up  without  result. 

Private  Long  returned  unexpectedly  at  7.15  p.  m.  of  the  13th  from  Alexandra  Harbor, 
both  he  and  Christiansen  being  very  much  exhausted.  They  saw  no  game  except  a  raven, 
and  no  tracks  save  of  a  fox.  They  examined  thoroughly  the  valleys  of  Alexandra  Harbor, 
and  Long  visited  the  western  side  of  Mount  Carey,  and,  with  his  field-glasses,  looked  farther 
westward  into  Hayes  Sound  than  had  ever  been  the  good  fortune  of  any  previous  explorer. 
He  discovered  three  new  capes  on  the  north  side  of  the  Sound,  the  most  westerly  of  which  I 
named  "Cape  Francis  Long,"  in  his  honor.  Apparently  the  Sound  was  closed  some  twenty 
miles  to  the  westward  by  land,  on  which  I  have  since  placed  the  name  of  Commodore  Schley. 
On  the  south  side  I  have  placed  the  name  of  Sergeant  Israel,  as  a  slight  testimony  to  the 
courage,  fidelity,  and  ability  of  my  late  astronomer. 

Long  reported  that  Bache  Island  terminated  some  distance  to  the  southeast  of  Cape  Baker, 
and  that  a  high,  rocky  island,  similar  in  appearance  to  Cocked-Hat  Island,  was  situated  just  to 
the  westward  of  Bache  Island.  Several  small,  unimportant,  rocky  islands  were  discovered 
along  the  shore  between  Rice  Strait  and  Alexandra  Harbor.  Long  examined  carefully  the 
whole  of  Alexandra  Harbor,  passing  over  the  edge  of  the  Twin  Glacier,  and  was  positive  that 
no  game  was  to  be  found  in  that  section.  From  Mount  Carey  no  signs  of  game  could  be  seen 
to  the  westward,  but  he  thought  it  possible  that  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Long  or  Cape  Baker 
game  might  be  procured.  Their  sleeni  iig-bag  froze  up  so  badly  that  they  were  unable  to  get 
into  it,  except  up  to  their  breast,  and  Private  Long,  taken  ill  with  cramps,  suffered  greatly, 
and  was  only  able  to  travel  after  being  revived  by  a  mixture  of  ammonia  and  rum.  The 
account  of  his  trip,  as  abridged  and  entered  in  my  journal  from  his  account  at  the  time,  forms 
Appendix  No.  no. 

On  March  14  I  announced  to  the  party  that  we  could  live  at  on-  present  camp  four  weeks 
longer  on  substantially  the  same  ration  we  were  then  eating,  and  while  such  an  arrangement 
would  leave  nothing  for  crossing  Smith  Sound,  it  would  insure  our  safety  if  a  party  at  Lit- 
tleton Island  should  reach  us.  The  same  day  Sergeant  Brainard  succeeded  in  killing  a  ptarmi- 
gan, the  first  game  obtained  since  a  fox  early  in  February.  Sergeant  Rice,  hunting,  cro.ssed 
the  island  into  Rosse  Bay  in  three  hours,  and  visited  the  grounded  bergs  in  that  bay,  hoping 
to  find  seals,  but  saw  no  traces  of  them.  He  returned  via  Payer  Harbor  much  exhausted, 
having  seen  no  game  but  a  raven.  He  reported  considerable  ice  to  the  northward  in  Kane 
Sea,  but  there  was  much  open  water  to  the  south  of  Cape  Sabine. 

On  the  15th  the  doctor  reported  Gardiner's  finger,  which  had  troubled  him  since  the  29th 
of  September,  as  entirely  well,  and  Ralston's  finger  better. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


m 


Sergeant  Brainard  killed  three  ptarmigan  that  day;  Jens  hunting  saw  no  game.  Lieu- 
tenant Kislingbury  visited  the  grounded  berg  and  saw  five  dovekies  in  winter  plumage,  and 
tracks  of  a  bear,  followed  by  a  fox. 

The  i6th,  at  a  temperature  of  — 35°  [ — 37.2°  C],  Long  and  Christiansen  went  with  the 
kayak  to  the  water  pool  for  dovekies,  and  succeeded  in  killing  four.  They  weighed  a  pound 
each,  and  were  yet  in  winter  plumage.  A  seal  of  several  hundred  pounds  weight  was  seen  in 
the  pool,  but  was  unfortunately  missed  at  short  range  by  Christiansen. 

Saint  Patrick's  Day  was  marked  by  a  reduction  of  bread  to  five  ounces  weekly.  Lieu- 
tenant Kislingbury,  hunting,  saw  a  seal  and  got  no  shot,  but  Jens  killed  a  ptarmigan. 

Sergeant  Brainard  on  the  17th  found  ten  ounces  of  English  chocolate,  which,  covered  by 
the  snow,  had  been  overlooked  in  the  storehouse.  The  party  were  very  much  pleased  at  this 
discovery,  but  I  thought  it  best  to  set  aside  the  chocolate  as  a  lu.xury  for  Sergeant  Elison,  very 
much  to  the  poor  fellow's  gratification,  and  without  objection  from  any  one  as  far  as  I  could 
then  infer,  I  regret  to  state  that  later  in  the  month  the  chocolate  was  stolen ;  all  circum- 
stances pointed  to  Private  Henry  as  the  offender. 

On  the  i8th  the  surgeon  reported  that  Christiansen  was  affected  by  dropsical  effusion, 
similar  to  Sergeant  Brainard's  late  attack,  and  considered  it  advisable  for  the  native  to  refrain 
from  hunting  and  exposure.  His  trip  with  Private  Long  nearly  broke  him  down  physically, 
as  did  that  of  Jens  with  Sergeant  Rice. 

Private  Long  hunted  on  the  20th  but  saw  only  two  dovekies.  Private  Henry  saw  three 
owls  or  falcons  flying  northward,  and  Sergeant  Rice  saw  a  raven  while  hunting  shrimps  ;  an 
occupation  just  commenced  by  him.  The  idea  was  advanced  by  me  the  previous  autumn,  but 
at  that  time  was  impracticable  ;  he  succeeded  in  getting  only  a  couple  of  ounces  the  first  day. 

Our  wood  was  gone  on  the  20tli,  leaving  only  stearine  and  alcohol  for  fuel  unless  we 
should  touch  our  whale-boat,  which  remained  to  that  time  intact. 

On  the  2 1st  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was  sick,  and  fainted  of  pain  from  a  carbuncle.  Jens 
was  troubled  with  dropsical  effusion,  but  on  account  of  the  exigency  I  was  obliged  to  send  him 
and  Christiansen  to  hunt  on  alternate  days.  On  the  same  day  Sergeants  Rice,  Gardiner,  and 
Frederick  succeeded  in  devising  nets  and  rakes  for  catching  shrimps  and  dredging  sea-weed, 
and  over  a  hundred  pounds  of  shrimps  were  caught  by  the  end  of  the  month.  These  shrimps 
were  what  are  known  as  sea-fleas,  and  were  so  small  that  over  thirteen  hundred  were  required 
to  fill  a  ^i7l  measure. 

On  the  23d,  as  Lieutenant  Lockwood  enters  in  his  diary:  "Lieutenant  Greely  announced 
this  morning  that  we  could  run  along  on  the  present  ration  until  April  6,  and  the*"  by  cutting 
down  to  three  ounces  of  meat  per  day,  without  bread,  we  could  exist  to  May  i.  '  nis  is  most 
encouraging." 

The  entire  party  nearly  perished  on  the  24th  from  asphyxiation  from  alcohol  fumes  result- 
ing from  cooking  without  opening  the  chimney,  which  was  close^  nights.  Several  of  the 
party  became  unconscious;  and  those  that  were  able  went  into  the  open  air.  The  cause  of  our 
trouble  was  discovered  bv  Sergeant  Gardiner.  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Israel  and  Steward 
Biederbick  were  for  a  time  apparently  dead.  Sergeant  Brainard  and  one  or  two  others  were 
slightly  frozen  by  exposure  to  the  outer  air,  and  my  own  hands  were  frosted  above  the  second 
joints  to  such  an  extent  that  for  several  days  they  were  utterly  useless,  and  it  was  nearly  two 
weeks  before  I  could  use  them  without  great  suffering.  The  temperature  at  that  time  was 
about  twenty-five  degrees  below  zero  [ — 31.7°  C.]. 

Private  Henry  improved  the  confusion  resulting  from  the  helpless  condition  of  his  com- 
rades to  steal  a  piece  of  bacon  from  one  of  the  messes.     The  evidence  against  Henry  was 
positive,  and  after  a  thorough  investigation  every  man  without  exception  voted  him  guilty. 
Proposals  to  use  violence  were  promptly  overruled  by  me,  but  Private  Henry  was  relieved 
11.  Mis.  3!»3 G 


11 


11! 


82 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


from  duty  and  |Sat  under  surveillance,  until  the  diminished  strength  of  the  party  rendered  it 
absolutely  necessary  to  release  him  and  permit  him  to  do  his  part  of  the  work. 

Sergeant  Brainard  killed  a  fox  on  the  25th,  but  other  daily  hunting  had  no  results  until 
the  27th,  on  which  day  Private  Long  killed  thirty-eight  dovekies;  thirty-three  of  which  Jens 
secured  by  means  of  his  kayak.  These  birds  were  killed  in  open  water,  which  was  about  two 
miles  distant  from  our  hut.  On  the  28th  Christiansen  shot  a  ptarmigan,  and  Long  killed 
fourteen  more  dovekies,  to  which  Sergeant  Rice  added  another  ptarmigan  on  the  29th.  Al- 
though a  small  seal  and  some  other  dovekies  were  seen  during  the  month,  no  opportunity  of 
shooting  them  presented  itself.     This  early  game  apparently  insured  our  safety. 

From  the  2otli  to  the  31st  a  slight  increase  of  food  was  given  to  Long  and  Jens  daily,  for 
lunch  while  hunting.  Christiansen  was  worse  at  the  end  of  the  month,  and  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  in  a  very  weak  condition.  Frederick,  for  a  wonder,  was  sick  on  the  31st,  and 
Biederbick  was  relieved  from  cooking  on  the  26th  owing  to  his  suffering  from  anaemia. 
Contrary  to  the  doctor's  advice  he  had  insisted  on  doing  the  cooking  for  a  considerable  time, 
in  addition  to  his  nursing  and  other  trying  services  as  steward  in  caring  for  Elison's  wounds, 
and  in  administering  medicines  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  others. 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  month  was  — 16.6°  [ — 27.0°  C],  witha  maximum  of  +3.0° 
[ — 16.1°  C]  on  the  31st,  and  a  minimum  of  — 35.2°  [ — 37-3°  C]  on  the  ist. 

The  mean  pressure  was  29,823  [757.49"'"]- 

APRIL,  1884. 

Private  Long  and  Jens  hunted  indefatigably  from  the  ist  to  the  5th,  during  which  time 
Long  killed  eleven  dovekies  and  two  ptarmigan  and  saw  several  seals.  Sergeant  Rice  and 
Corporal  Salor  continued  catching  shrimps  by  nets,  bringing  in  from  twelve  to  thirty  pounds 
daily,  until  the  7th,  when  Corporal  Salor  broke  down  and  Sergeant  Brainard  was  obliged  to 
temporarily  take  his  place. 

Christiansen  was  given  daily  four  ounces  extra  food  from  the  ist,  but  the  increase  proved 
of  no  avail  and  he  died  on  the  5th  of  starvation;  his  body  showing,  however,  a  few  signs  of 
scurvy.  The  industry,  loyalty,  and  fidelity  of  this  Eskimo  were  undoubted.  His  death,  the 
first  one  from  starvation,  naturally  had  a  depressing  effect.  It  determined  me  to  send  Ser- 
geant Rice  and  Priv^ate  PVederick  after  the  English  meat  in  Baird  Inlet;  a  course  I  had  hesi- 
tated over,  despite  their  tender  of  services  and  their  declared  certainty  of  success.  They  were 
fitted  out  as  thoroughly  as  possible,  and,  contrary  to  their  wishes,  they  were  given  an  extra 
allowance  of  food,  amounting  in  all  to  six  ounces  of  pemmican  and  six  ounces  of  bread,  daily, 
while  in  the  field.  This  slight  increase  was  deprecated  by  them  as  they  wished  to  attempt  their 
work  on  the  regular  ration,  which  was  plainly  impossible.  They  left  on  April  6,  the  day  on 
which  Sergeant  Linn  died. 

Linn's  early  death  resulted,  without  much  doubt,  from  the  severe  mental  and  physical 
shock  arising  from  his  privations  in  November,  1883.  He  was  a  faithful,  hardworking  man, 
an  excellent  and  subordinate  soldier,  whom,  in  nearly  three  years'  services,  I  had  never  but 
once  found  reason  to  complain  of 

I  commenced  issuing  four  ounces  extra  meat  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  on  the  6th  of  April, 
which  continued  until  his  death,  which  occurred  on  the  9th.  I  have  elsewhere  in  various  ways 
alluded  to  the  success  and  importance  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  geographical  work,  and  as  to 
the  qualities  displayed  therein.  As  to  his  personal  qualities  they  were  such  as  invariably  com- 
manded respect,  though  his  quiet,  retiring  disposition  did  not  tend  to  make  friends  quickly. 
Slow  in  forming  an  opinion,  his  judgment  was  excellent  when  matured.  He  was  loyal,  brave, 
true,and  his  whole  character  was  based  on  virtues  of  which  gentleness  and  Christian  charity  were 
essential  parts. 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


83 


Burial  services  were  read  over  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  Sergeant  Linn,  and  Eskimo  Chris- 
tiansen, and  as  much  formality  and  care  were  exercised  in  their  burial  as  the  weak  state  of  the 
party  would  permit. 

In  consequence  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  death  I  felt  constrained  to  formally  order 
Lieutenant  Kislingbur>'  to  duty  with  the  expedition,  although  he  was  at  the  time  mentally  and 
physically  disqualified  for  duty  of  any  character.  In  assigning  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  to  duty 
I  publicly  complimented  him  for  the  marked  energy  and  efficient  manner  in  which  he  had 
labored  toward  collecting  stores  and  building  the  house  the  preceding  autumn,  whereby  he  had 
injured  himself  by  overwork  and  straining. 

Steward  Biederbick  had  informed  me  on  the  9th  of  Dr.  Pavy  taking  Elison's  bread, 
and  that  four  entire  cans  of  extract  of  beef,  entrusted  to  the  surgeon  as  medical  stores,  had 
been  consumed  by  the  doctor.  Though  Dr.  Pavy  denied  ever  having  the  cans,  yet  later  Steward 
Biederbick  found  three  of  them  empty  under  the  head  of  the  doctor's  sleeping-bag.  On  the 
loth  I  felt  obliged  to  officially  inform  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  of  Dr.  Pavy's  improper  actions 
relative  to  Sergeant  Elison,  so  that  in  case  of  my  death  he  might  know  what  to  expect. 

On  the  nth  Sergeant  Brainard,  who,  owing  to  Corporal  Salor's  sickness,  had  taken  upon 
himself  the  duties  of  shrimping  in  addition  to  the  issuing  of  supplies,  came  in  utterly  exhausted, 
and  reported  that  a  bear  was  coming  up  the  ice-foot.  Private  Long  and  Eskimo  Jens  went 
out  and  following  hiin  nearly  two  miles,  succeeded  iii  killing  him  within  thirty  feet  of  the 
open  water.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  started  out  b,.  vas  unable  to  go  more  than  a  hundred 
yards.  The  bear  was  hauled  in  by  the  strongest  oi"  the  party  and  appeared  to  promise  our 
future  safety,  as  it  was  believed  game  could  be  readily  obtained  after  the  ist  of  May.  Private 
Long's  success  in  killing  this  bear  (for  Long's  shot  killed  him  after  Jens  had  simply  struck 
his  leg)  showed  the  same  nerve  and  skill  which  had  made  him  the  acknowledged  hunter  of  the 
expedition.  To  Long's  great  patience,  iron  endurance,  and  reliable  marksmanship  were  due 
part  of  the  seals  of  the  previous  autumn,  the  birds  of  the  early  spring,  and  this  great  addition 
to  our  food,  which  undoubtedly  saved  the  remnant  of  the  party.  As  some  reward  I  ordered  his 
promotion  to  be  sergeant,  and  transferred  him  to  the  Signal  Corps,  vice  Sergeant  Jewell,  who 
died  at  that  time.  It  seemed  to  me  then  imperative  to  ultimate  safety  to  insure  some  definite 
reward  for  such  extraordinary  services.  In  this  as  other  similar  cases  my  action  could  not  be 
confirmed,  as  it  was  decided  to  be  beyond  my  authority  to  so  transfer,  except  by  application 
to  the  War  Department. 

Sergeant  Jewell  died  of  starvation  on  the  12th.  Burial  services  were  read  in  the  hut  as 
usual,  and  he  was  buried  on  the  hill.  Sergeant  Jewell  proved  himself  a  most  efficient  and 
conscientious  observer,  and,  despite  his  apparently  weak  physique,  performed  for  the  expe- 
dition very  effective  bcn^ices  in  the  field.  He  crossed  Robeson  Channel  on  sledge  trips  more 
frequently  than  had  any  of  his  comrades  or  predecessors. 

Private  Frederick  returned  at  2  p.  m.  of  the  13th,  reporting  Rice's  death  from  exhaustion 
the  previous  Wednesday  in  Baird  Inlet,  some  six  miles  from  our  old  camp  at  Eskimo  Point. 
The  remarkable  energy  and  excellent  judgment  displayed  by  Private  Frederick  in  his  trying 
trip,  is  modestly  but  incompletely  shown  by  his  report,  which  forms  Appendix  No.  in. 
Private  Frederick  distinguished  himself  during  this  disastrous  journey,  and  brought  in  the 
entire  load  hauled  out  by  the  two;  and,  remarkable  to  say,  did  his  work  on  the  scanty  ration  of 
six  ounces  of  meat  and  six  of  bread,  not  availing  himself  of  additional  increase  authorized  by 
me  in  case  of  extraodinary  circumstances.  His  extremely  valuable  services,  as  one  of  the 
supporting  party  to  the  "  Farthest  North,"  as  engineer  at  the  critical  point  of  our  retreat,  as 
cook  during  the  terrible  winter,  and  as  hunter  and  general  worker  in  the  more  disastrous  spring, 
all  showed  the  stamp  of  no  ordinary  man.  As  some  reward  an  order  was  issued  promoting  him 
to  be  sergeant,  and  transferring  him  to  the  Signal  Corps,  as  of  date  of  Sergeant  Rice's  death. 
These  orders  were  not  confirmed  by  the  War  Department,  as  being  beyond  my  power.  Private 
Frederick's  report  merits  careful  reading. 


84 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I' 

ill 


I 


Sergeant  Rice  was  a  young  man  of  decided  pronise.  A  skillful  and  enthusiastic  pho- 
tographer, he  had  also  fitted  himself  for  law  and  had  been  admitted  to  the  bar.  Clever, 
cultivated,  and  amiable,  he  endeared  himself  to  his  comrades  at  Fort  Conger.  In  addition  to  his 
excellent  work  as  photographer,  his  manly  strength  and  aptitude  for  field  work  liad  also  been 
e-xercised  in  valuable  services  for  the  expedition,  particularly  during  our  retreat.  He  was 
ever  ready  to  venture  his  life  for  his  comrades,  as  shown  by  his  extraordinary  trips  to  Cape 
Sabine,  to  Cape  Isabella  (twice),  and  towards  Littleton  Island.  He  volunteered  for  the  fatal 
journey,  conscious  of  the  dangers,  but  was  impelled  to  do  so  owing  to  our  desperate  straits, 
and  in  hopes  of  saving  his  starving  comrades. 

The  bear  killed  by  L,ong  and  Jens  on  April  1 1  added  so  materially  to  our  supplies,  that 
I  commenced  on  the  14th  issuing  to  each  man  a  pound  of  meat  daily.  In  addition  to  this 
pound,  eight  ounces  extra  were  given  to  Sergeant  Elison  and  to  the  hunters  and  shrimpers — 
Private  Long,  Eskimo  Jens,  and  Sergeant  Brainard. 

The  doctor  informed  me  that  my  heart  was  in  a  very  bed  condition  and  death  might 
result  at  any  time.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was  then  suffering  from  mental  weakness,  and, 
owing  to  the  condition  of  affairs,  I  felt  constrained  to  order  the  issixe  of  four  ounces  extra 
pemmican  and  two  ounces  of  bread  for  that  day  to  myself.  This  measure  had  been  urged 
on  me  by  Sergeants  Brainard,  Israel,  Ralston,  Private  Frederick,  and  others,  but  although 
I  had  freely  ordered  extra  supplies  for  other  urgent  cases,  I  felt  a  natural  delicacy  to  do  so 
for  mjself.  The  few  days  on  which  these  issues  were  made  should  be  found  noted  in  Ser- 
geant Brainard's  diary.  Extra  rations  of  eight  ounces  of  meat  daily  were  issued  from  the  12th 
to  Sergeant  Israel,  owing  to  his  failing. 

Sergeant  Gardiner  was  very  poorly  on  the  15th,  and  the  doctor  stated  he  would  die  next. 
Owing  to  his  depressed  condition,  I  gave  him  half  a  gill  extra  of  rum. 

(3n  the  i6th  I  relieved  Ralston  as  cook  in  our  mess  ;  some  of  the  party  asserting  that 
he  did  not  fairly  divide  our  scanty  food.  This  was  the  first  time  in  five  and  a  half  months  of 
extreme  suffering,  that,  despite  the  constantly  morbid  and  distrustful  conditions  of  our  minds, 
such  complaint  had  been  made  in  our  mess.  One  or  two  similar  complaints  had  been  made  . 
in  Lieutenant  Kislingbury' s  mess,  but  after  investigation  by  ihat  officer  they  were  considered 
by  him  and  the  majority  of  the  party  to  be  not  well  founded. 

In  connection  with  this  division  of  food  it  may  be  proper  to  evidence  the  general  good 
behavior  of  our  cooks,  and  the  general  spirit  of  confidence  and  fair  dealing  by  the  rest  of  the 
party,  by  contrasting  our  conditions  with  those  experienced  by  McClure's  party  in  Mercy  Bay. 
McClure's  force  of  men  was  for  months  on  reduced  rations,  which  aggregated,  however,  nearly 
three  times  as  much  solid  food,  with  infinitely  superior  shelter,  than  our  own  ;  and  yet  Dr. 
(now  Sir)  Alexander  Armstrong  states  that  in  the  officers'  mess  they  alternated  as  carvers,  and 
to  insure  fairness  each  selected  his  piece  of  meat,  leaving  the  last  to  the  carver.  This  same 
plan  of  division,  at  the  solicitation  of  the  cooks,  was  offered  by  me  to  my  own  and  to  Lieu- 
tenant Kislingbury's  mess.  My  own  mess  persistently  refused  to  adopt  it,  but  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury's  mess,  for  a  week  or  so,  alternated  in  distributing  portions,  but  regretted  doing 
so,  and  ultimately  returned  to  our  method  of  trusting  the  cook. 

The  doctor,  on  the  i8th,  made  a  detailed  report  of  the  party,  stating  that  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury,  Biederbick,  Israel,  (xardiner.  Council,  and  Whisler  were  quite  weak.  He  stated 
I  was  improving  very  slowly  :  and  in  consequence  no  extra  food  was  issued  to  me. 

On  April  19  Long  detected  Dr.  Pavy  drinking  part  of  Schneider's  rum.  On  the  21st 
Israel's  allowance  of  eight  ounces  extra  meat,  which  had  been  issued  since  the  12th,  was 
discontinued.  The  doctor  .said  if  it  was  continued  he  would  be  obliged  to  recommend  it 
equally  for  Lieutenant  Kislingbtiry,  Biederbick,  Gardiner,  and  Ellis. 

In  con.seqnence  of  no  game  being  obtained  the  meat  allowance  was  reduced  from  si.xteen 
to  ten  ounces,  depressing  naturally  the  spirits  of  the  party.     The  day  following,  Dr.  Pavy  and 


CgilUBji"- 


tHE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


85 


Lieutenant  Kislingbury  (Appendix  No.  112)  recommended  an  increase  of  meat  to  one  pound, 
which  would  have  entirely  exhausted  our  provisions  Ly  the  ist  of  May  at  the  latest.  I  could 
not  consent  to  their  recommendation,  but  finally  conceded  some  change,  and  ordered  an  increase 
of  twelve  ounces  from  the  24th. 

On  the  22d  the  great  trouble  with  my  heart,  doubtless  augmented  by  my  mental  anxiety 
over  the  arguments  about  the  daily  rations,  seemed  to  indicate  the  near  approach  of  my  own 
death.  In  consequence  detailed  instructions  were  given  to  Sergeant  Brainard  as  to  the  course 
to  be  pursued  in  case  of  my  sudden  death,  and  he  was  informed  that  a  letter  written  some  time 
before  would  be  found  on  my  person,  which  ordered  him  to  assume  command  in  case  of  my 
death;  as  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was  unfit  either  mentally  or  physically  to  do  so. 

Private  Schneider,  the  cook,  refused  to  prepare  supper  that  evening  on  the  plea  of  inability, 
although  reported  by  the  surgeon  to  be  physically  able,  and,  in  consequence,  I  insisted  on 
replacing  him  by  myself  as  cook,  hoping  to  overcome  his  disinclination  by  personal  example. 
It  having  no  effect,  however,  I  informed  him  the  following  morning  that  if  he  did  not  cook 
he  could  not  eat;  which  had  the  desired  effect.  The  man's  mental  condition  was  pitiable, 
but  necessity  demanded  he  should  do  the  work  he  was  able  to. 

On  April  23,  as  fuel  failed.  Privates  Bender  and  Henry  commenced  tearing  out  the  inside 
of  the  boat,  which  had  a  depressing  effect  upon  the  party,  as  its  destruction  seemed  to  foretell 
the  fate  of  the  entire  party.  It  was  necessary,  however,  as  the  last  stearine  was  used  for  cook- 
ing on  that  day,  and  the  seven  gallons  of  alcohol  remaining  would  serve  a  better  purpose  as 
food,  and  of  eking  out  our  meat,  bread,  and  other  supplies,  of  which  we  had  about  three 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds  including  shrimps. 

Dr.  Pavy  that  morning  requested  to  be  relieved  from  feeding  Sergeant  Elison,  and  Sergeant 
Ralston  assumed  the  duties  by  my  orders.  Dr.  Pavy  alleged  the  effect  of  smoke  upon  his  eyes 
as  the  reason,  but  Sergeant  Elison  later  reported  that  he  had  detected  Dr.  Pavy  appropriating 
his  bacon  while  feeding  him  the  night  before,  and  Elison  requested  that  I  should  note  the  fact 
in  my  journal.  The  opening  of  the  boat  admitted  light  so  that  one  could  see  for  the  first 
time  in  six  months  what  was  being  done.  It  is  evident  that  Elison's  food  had  all  these  months 
paid  regular  toll  to  Dr.  Pavy. 

To  show  the  general  spirit  of  unselfishness,  it  may  be  stated  that  Sergeant  Ralston  spilled 
his  stew  and  Private  Schneider  his  tea  the  same  morning,  but  others  contributed  from  their 
meager  portions  to  replace  that  lost.  In  previous  cases  of  loss  of  food  or  drink  by  accident, 
some  of  the  party  invariably  contributed  or  offered  their  mite  to  replace  it.  Four  ounces  extra 
meat  each  was  given  to  Sergeants  Israel  and  Gardiner. 

On  the  24th  I  put  in  practice  Dr.  Pavy's  recommendation  to  withhold  the  eight  ounces 
meat  to  Brainard  for  shrimp  hunting,  and  do  the  work  by  detail  {:jm  the  strongest  of  the 
party.  Dr.  Pavy,  Sergeant  Brainard,  and  Private  Schneider  alternated  in  the  work  for  three 
days,  with  the  result  that  the»doctor  got  nothing  and  Schneider  about  ten  pounds  or  so.  As 
a  result,  a  pound  of  meat  was  saved  and  from  thirty  to  forty  pounds  of  shrimps  lost,  and 
Private  Schneider  injured  by  a  bad  fall.  In  consequence  I  returned  to  the  former  plan  and 
issued  eight  ounces  extra  meat  to  Sergeant  Brainard.  While  shrimping  on  the  25th  Brainard 
shot  two  ptarmigan,  which  made  up  his  extra  allowance  of  meat  for  four  days. 

Sergeant  Israel's  and  Gardiner's  daily  allowance  of  four  ounces  extra  meat  continued 
until  April  29,  except  that  on  the  latter  day  four  ounces  went  to  Steward  Biederbick  instead 
of  to  Sergeant  Gardiner. 

In  deference  to  Dr.  Pavy's  expressed  and  reiterated  medical  opinion,  I  commenced,  the 
25th,  to  issue  half  a  gill  of  diluted  alcohol  to  the  hunters.  Fearing  the  influence  of  alcohol 
on  the  nerves  of  a  half-starved  man,  I  had  opposed  issuing  it  before  they  went  out,  believing  it 
should  be  taken  by  the  hunters  on  their  return.    April  26,  the  first  day's  hunting  after  the  issue 


i  4 


86 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITIOIJ. 


of  alcohol,  Jens,  from  behind  a  screen  at  his  own  selected  point,  fired  at  an  Ugsnk  seal  and 
missed  him  inside  of  a  distance  of  forty  yards  [37™]. 

Abont  that  time  Dr.  Pavy  submitted  two  written  reports  (Appendices  Nos.  113  and  114), 
the  suggestions  of  which  I  could  only  adopt  in  part. 

On  the  27th  Private  Henry  took  advantage  of  my  illness,  and  of  others  being  in  their 
sleeping-bags,  to  prepare  the  diluted  alcohol,  and  took  extra  liquor  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
intoxicate  himself.  His  condition  was  first  discovered  by  lyieutenant  Kislingbury,  who  lay 
next  him.     The  disgust  of  every  one  at  such  baseness  was  excessive,  but  he  was  spared  again. 

On  the  29th  Jens  and  Long  went  hunting,  as  they  had  done  every  suitable  day  during  the 
month.  At  2.30  p.  m.  Private  Long  returned  and  reported  that  Jens  was  drowned  about  noon, 
by  the  cutting  of  his  kayak  by  young  ice.  The  kayak  and  our  only  reliable  rifle,  the  Army 
Springfield,  were  lost.  Long,  at  a  very  great  ri.sk,  endeavored  to  reach  the  body  and  the  kayak 
during  the  time  it  remained  near.  The  death  of  Eskimo  Jens  caused  great  sorrow,  not  only 
on  account  of  our  critical  condition,  but  for  the  strong  affection  all  had  for  his  great  heart- 
edness,  unvarying  truthfulness,  and  strict  integrity. 

On  the  30th  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was  in  a  very  depressed  condition  and  showed  such 
signs  of  mental  derangement  that  I  wrote  out  a  second  letter  ordering  Sergeant  Brainard  to 
assume  command  in  case  anything  went  wrong  with  me,  having  destroyed  the  first  at  a  time 
when  Lieutenant  Kislingbury' s  mental  condition  had  temporarily  improved. 

Sergeant  Brainard  caught  during  April  (from  the  7th)  four  hundred  and  sixty  pounds  of 
shrimps  and  two  pounds  of  sea-weed. 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  month  was  — 0.95°  [ —  i8.3°C.],  with  a  maximum  of  -1-19.8° 
[ — 6.8°  C]  on  the  i6th  and  a  minimum  of  —  24.0°  [ — 31.1°  C]  on  the  12th. 

The  mean  pressure  was  30. 136  [765.44"'™]. 

.        '.    -  '       \  _ 

MAY,  1884.  i 

The  first  days  of  May  I  was  dangerously  ill  from  excessive  constipation  and  incipient 
inflammation  of  the  bowels,  which  yielded  but  gradually  to  Dr.  Pavy's  skillful  treatment. 

On  the  3d  Pri  vate  Long*  made  an  exhausting  trip  of  fourteen  hours  to  Rice  Strait  and 
killed  a  seal,  which  sank  after  it  had  drifted  within  a  few  yards  of  him — a  sad  loss  for  us. 

On  the  same  day  Private  Whisler  was  detected  taking  about  a  pound  of  bacon  from  the 
storehouse,  the  door  of  which  had  been  forced.  Privates  Henry,  Bender,  and  Whisler  were 
outside  the  hut,  having  left  in  the  order  named.  Whisler  claimed  that  the  door  must  have 
been  forced  by  Bender  or  Henry,  as  he  saw  it  open  on  passing  out,  and,  looking  in,  his 
terrible  hunger  overcame  his  principles.  About  two  pounds  of  bacon  and  a  half  poimd  of 
pemmican,  besides  what  Whisler  was  detected  with,  were  missing,  which,  with  other  circum- 
stances, pointed  to  the  truthfulness  of  Whisler's  confession,  which  he  continually  asserted  to 
his  dying  moments.  Private  Whisler  moreover  expressed  his  willingness  to  be  killed  or  meet 
any  other  fate  the  party  might  award,  but  deplored  his  mental  weakness  which  caused  his 
sinning.  I  believed  the  man's  confession  and  in  his  deep  repentance,  which  he  manifested  to 
his  dying  day. 

On  the  5th  Dr.  Pavy  urged  a  largely  increased  issue  of  shrimps,  of  which  some  sixty 
pounds  over  the  current  issue  had  been  accumulated  by  Sergeant  Brainard's  indefatigable 
exertions.     As  we  had  but  a  week's  meat  I  refused. 

On  the  same  day  after  this  refusal  Dr.  Pavy  made  trouble  by  uttering  publicly  false 
statements  on  three  different  points,  regarding  his  medical  reports  made  to  me  daily  in  French. 
An  acrid  discussion  followed,  and,  to  avoid  demoralizing  influences,  I  ordered  him  four  times 
to  stop  the  discussion,  and  finally  told  him  that  were  he  not  the  doctor  I  should  kill  him  for 
his  present  and  past  behavior.     Private  Bender  then  joined  in  the  matter,  and,  despite  repeated 


ih  1 


laE  LAl3V  FRANKIilN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


87 


orders,  would  not  be  quiet  until  I  attempted  to  jjet  Private  Long's  gun  to  shoot  him.  It  is 
appropriate  to  state  here  that  this  was  the  only  occasion  durinfj  our  eijjht  months  at  Cape 
Sabine  that  I  was  oblijjed  to  resort  to  violent  threats  to  insure  the  execution  of  my  orders. 
The  only  other  occasion  on  which  direct  orders  were  not  obeyed  has  been  referred  to  in  case  of 
Private  Bender,  who  was  put  out  of  the  hut  for  an  hour,  and  Private  Schneider,  who  pleaded 
inability  to  perform  his  work.  When  reiterated  orders  jjiven  to  a  party  in  such  extremities 
are  not  obeyed,  it  is  evident  that  unless  they  are  enforced  at  all  hazards  all  bonds  of  discipline 
are  at  an  end,  and  threats  of  force  to  insure  obedience  are  fully  justifiable. 

Privates  Long  and  Frederick  hunted  long  and  diligently  through  the  month  without  prac- 
tical success,  though  Frederick  saw  white  whales  and  many  seals,  and  succeeded  on  the  nth 
in  killing  in  a  water  pool  an  Ugsiik  seal,  which  unfortunately  sank  before  reaching  the  edge  of 
the  ice.  Long  saw  many  seals,  but  had  no  possible  chance  of  killing  one.  Sergeant  Brainard 
continued  regularly  obtaining  shrimps  and  dredging  sea-weed. 

Sergeant  Israel's  extra  allowance  of  four  ounces  of  .meat  stopped  on  the  loth.  On  the 
same  date  my  journal  notes  the  entire  freedom  of  the  channel  from  ice,  as  it  had  been  for  a 
few  days  previous;  and  also  my  positive  opinion  that  there  could  be  no  party  at  Littleton 
Island,  or  we  would  ere  this  have  seen  them  at  Cape  Sabine  by  boat. 

On  the  i2th,  after  consultation  with  Sergeant  Brainard,  I  ordered  the  issue  of  our  last 
meat  and  tallow,  which  included  rations  for  the  15th  of  May.  After  the  experience  of  May 
3  it  appeared  barely  possible  that  one  of  the  worst  men  of  the  party  might  break  into  the 
storehouse  and  appropriate  the  small  quantity  of  remaining  food,  hoping  thus  to  save  himself 
at  the  expense  of  the  others. 

The  issue  of  our  last  regular  food  leads  me  to  speak  of  Sergeant  Brainard' s  services  in 
that  connection.  F'aithfully  and  fairly  for  all  our  service  he  issued  food  and  all  other  supplies. 
In  his  equity  and  even  justice  all  had  full  faith.  Personally  he  made  all  issues,  kept  all 
accounts,  and  reported  to  me  weekly  or  otherwise  as  ordered.  His  safe  and  careful  estimates 
of  unknown  weights  of  bread  and  meat  were  of  incalculable  benefit  in  the  spring.  The  scores 
of  pounds  which  these  estimated  supplies  overran  were  sure  testimony  as  to  what  I  firmly 
believe,  that  in  all  that  terrible  winter  no  ounce  of  unauthorized  food  passed  his  lips.  In  less 
loyal  and  more  unscrupulous  hands  these  gains  would  never  have  been  reported.  That  a 
starving  man  for  months  could  handle  daily  such  amounts  of  food  and  not  take  for  himself 
speaks  volumes  for  his  moral  courage. 

On  May  12  Dr.  Pavy  urged  that  I  give  him,  for  his  wife's  satisfaction,  a  certificate  of  gen- 
eral good  standing.  I  declined  to  do  so;  but  later,  after  persistent  urging,  and  to  insure  con- 
tinued medical  attendance  for  the  dying  men,  I  gave  him  as  full  a  certificate  as  I  could  con- 
scientiously, confining  it  most  rigidly  to  strictly  professional  duties.  Later,  on  May  21,  I 
learned  from  Sergeant  Israel  that,  under  stress  from  Dr.  Pavy,  he  had  copied  for  him  and 
signed  a  certificate  of  good  behavior.  I  append  both  the  certificates,  and  my  letter  on  learn- 
ing of  this  remarkable  action  (see  Appendices  Nos.  115,  116,  117).  These  men  were  slowly 
dying,  and  looked  for  medical  assistance  and  relief  to  the  man  who  penned  this  certificate. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  on  learning  Dr.  Pavy's  request,  insisted  on  a  complimentary 
certificate  in  writing,  which  I  refused,  saying  he  had  no  right  to  demand  such.  An  acrimo- 
nious discussion  followed,  in  which  I  used  improper  and  ungentlemanly  language  towards  him, 
for  which  I  afterwards  openly  and  publicly  apologized,  both  to  him  and  the  party.  I  look 
back  on  that  personal  episode  in  the  three  years'  experience  as  the  only  one  for  which  I  have 
an  abiding  regret.  Though  my  statements  were  strictly  accurate,  I  should  have  remembered 
Lieutenant  Kislingbury' s  weak  mental  state  and  enfeebled  physical  condition.  I  can  only 
plead  in  extenuation  great  physical  pain,  and  resultant  mental  condition  froin  my  severe  ill- 
ness of  a  few  days  previous.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  I  were  fully  reconciled  prior  to  his 
death. 


'I  4 

ill 


.»   ■:'. 


1^ 


i 

'       I' 

!     ■ 


11  '     '■   f 


68 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXt>EDlTION. 


On  the  13th,  during  the  night,  abont  five  ounces  of  Sergeant  Elisou's  bacon  was  taken  by 
some  unknown  person,  and  a  couple  of  days  previously  an  ounce  of  pemmican  was  stolen  from 
the  hunter's  lunch.  The  bacon  entrusted  to  me  had  been  placed  for  safe-keeping  between  the 
sleeping-bags  next  to  Sergeant  Israel's  head.     I  have  full  faith  that  it  was  not  touched  by  Israel. 

On  the  17th  the  last  alcohol,  except  a  small  quantity  for  medical  purposes,  was  issued,  x 
also  ordered  Steward  Biederbick  to  issue  the  lard  remaining  for  medical  purposes,  which  gave 
each  one  about  three  ounces.     Dr.  Pavy  objected,  however,  both  to  the  issue  and  division. 

On  the  morning  of  the  i8th  I  heard  a  raven,  and  called  Long,  who  killed  him. 

The  i8th,  one  of  the  verj-  weak  men  was  brutally  reviled  by  one  of  the  party,  and  on 
the  23d  a  similar  case  occurred.  All  the  parties  concerned  are  dead,  and  this  mention  of  a 
lack  of  kindly  feeling  is  made,  as  it  was  the  only  evidence  of  it  in  all  our  months  of  suffering 
and  privations.  It  is  touched  on,  not  to  bring  reproach  to  the  guilty  men,  but  to  show  how 
very  free  the  party  was  from  unkindly  and  inhuman  feeling,  despite  continued  and  agonizing 
suffering,  which  had  been  endured  for  months. 

May  19,  Frederick,  going  in  early  morning  for  ice,  discovered  a  bear  near  the  house.     He" 
and  Long  immediately  started  after  him,  but  returned  after  six  hours'  chase,  entirely  ex- 
hausted.    Their  weakened  condition  was  such  that  the  bear  easily  out-traveled  them,  and  they 
were  unable  to  get  a  shot  at  him. 

Private  Ellis  died  during  the  bear  hunt  and  was  buried  on  the  20th,  services  being  read 
as  usual.  His  death  was  very  depressing,  as  it  was  the  first  one  from  starvation  in  nearly  six 
weeks.  On  the  20th,  to  give  Sergeant  Israel  a  last  chance  for  life,  and  on  the  doctor's  urgent 
recommendation  four  ounces  of  raven  were  issued,  our  only  meat. 

On  the  2 1st  a  purple  saxifrage  {Saxifraga  oppositifoUd)  was  seen  in  blossom  in  a  very  shel- 
tered place.  We  commenced  that  day  mixing  saxifrage  with  our  shrimps  and  sea-weed,  with 
doubtful  advantage,  as  in  general  that  plant  was  but  faintly  tinged  with  green. 

r*'.!  the  20th  I  was  obliged  to  commence  feeding  Sergeant  Ralston,  who  slept  with  me,  and 
on  the  22d  he  became  unconscious  in  my  arms  and  died  early  the  following  morning.  He 
had  proved  himself  an  excellent  observer  and  an  efficient  man  in  the  field. 

The  doctor  expressed  the  opinion  that  we  would  all  die  in  a  few  days  unless  we  succeeded 
in  moving  from  the  hut,  where  melting  snow  saturated  our  clothing  and  kept  us  continually 
cold  and  wretched.  The  strength  of  the  party  was  consequently  devoted,  on  the  22d,  to  pitching 
the  wall-tent,  about  three  hundred  yards  [274""]  southeast  of  the  winter  hut,  on  a  level,  gravelly 
spot,  where  we  could  have  the  benefit  of  the  ever-present  sun's  rays.  The  tent  was  able  to 
hold  but  a  portion  of  the  party,  and  the  strongest  were  directed  to  sleep  for  a  time  in  the  hut;  but 
the  whole  party  messed  together  at  the  tent.  The  weakest  moved  to  the  tent  the  afternoon  of 
the  23d.  Private  VVhisler  managed  to  walk  to  the  tent  alone  but  became  unconscious  that 
evening.  Sergeant  Israel  walked  half-way,  and  was  hauled  the  rest  of  the  distance.  I  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  the  tent  with  great  difficulty,  carrying  my  Afghan  sleeping-bag. 

The  barometer  was  broken  removing  it  to  the  hill,  a  great  misfortune,  as  I  had  hoped  to 
continue  obser\'ations  until  the  last  man  died.  The  rapidly  diminishing  strength  of  the  party 
at  that  time  compelled  the  discontinuance  of  certain  observations,  which  had  been  made  reg- 
ularly till  May,  but  other  observations  were  kept  up. 

Private  Long  saw  a  skua  (robber  gull)  on  the  23d,  and  Brainard  got  only  ten  pounds  of 
shrimps — less  than  our  daily  ration. 

Private  Whisler  died  on  the  24th,  and  burial  services  were  read  over  him.  A  man  of 
strong  physique,  he  had  always  worked  hard  to  advance  the  objects  of  the  expedition. 

On  the  24th  it  was  surmised  that  Schneider  was  not  dividing  our  shrimp  stew  fairly,  by 
giving  out  much  soup  and  retaining  a  disproportionate  quantity  of  solid  shrimps  in  his  own 
portion.  Observations  on  the  25th  confirming  this  suspicion,  Private  Frederick  was  ordered 
to  relieve  Schneider  as  cook.     That  day,  to  supplement  our  wretched  diet  of  shrimps,  sea- 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIX  1»AY  EXPEDITION. 


89 


weed,  and  saxifrage,  we  commenced  stewing  the  seal-skin  tliongs,  of  which  we  arranged  to 
have  one  stew  daily. 

Sergeant  Israel  weakened  gradnally,  and  on  the  26th  I  was  obliged  to  feed  him.  On  the 
27th  he  died  very  easily.  .\  yonng  man  of  some  fortune,  a  graduate  of  Michigan  Tnivensity, 
a  promising  astronomer,  with  a  bright  future  before  him,  his  death  was  parti ciilarly  sad.  He 
had  been  a  most  valuable  man  to  the  expedition  in  its  scientific  work,  and  had  earnestly 
desired  field  service  despite  his  slender  and  weak  physique.  He  endeared  him.self  to  the  entire 
expedition  by  his  kindness,  consideration,  and  unvarying  equanimity. 

On  the  26th  and  27th  Long  killed  four  dovekies,  which  fell  in  the  water  beyond  reach. 

On  the  27th,  in  consequence  of  their  extraordinary  services  in  our  behalf,  and  to  encourage 
the  party,  Frederick  and  Long  were  assigned  to  the  Signal  Service,  vice  Ralston  and  Israel 
lately  died.  This  action,  made  subject  to  confirmation,  was  not  approved  by  the  Secretary  of 
War,  on  the  ground,  I  understand,  that,  even  under  such  extraordinary  circumstances,  I  ex- 
ceeded my  authority.  It  would  .seem  to  me  that  the  danger  of  a  precedent  in  authorizing 
such  action  would  be  less  dangerous  to  the  service  than  to  put  forth  the  idea  that  even  in 
extraordinary  circumstances  an  officer  camiot  safely  step  out  of  the  well-beaten  path  of  routine. 

On  the  27th  Dr.  Pavy  took  all  the  remaining  iron  from  the  medicine  chest  during  my 
temporary  absence.  He  was  also  accused  by  Steward  Biederbick,  Sergeant  Elison,  and  others 
of  previously  taking,  medicinally,  nearly  all  of  our  Dover's  powders.  He  had  lately  failed  to 
issue  iron  to  the  party  as  promi.sed,  and  I  immediately  ordered  him  to  return  it  to  the  chest. 

On  the  28th  Private  Long  saw  two  dovekies  and  secured  one.  I  divided  it  between  him 
and  Sergeant  Brainard,  who  were  feeding  the  party  at  that  time. 

A  violent  gale  occurred  on  the  29th  and  30th,  and  we  were  without  food  or  drink  for 
twenty-eight  hours,  and  on  the  31st  another  violent  gale  kept  everybody  in  the  bags  for 
twenty-four  hours. 

Sergeant  Brainard,  by  systematic  and  indefatigable  exertions,  obtained  during  May  no  less 
than  four  hundred  and  seventy-five  pounds  of  shrimps  and  eighty-one  pounds  of  sea-weed. 

The  mean  temperature  for  the  month  was  +iy.o°[ — 8.3°C.],  with  a  maximum  of 
-1-36.0°  [-J-2.2°C.]  on  the  21st,  and  a  minimum  of  —  4.0°  [ — 2o.o°C.]  on  the  nth. 

The  mean  pressure  (ist  to  23d,  inclusive)  was  30. 123  [765. 1 1 """]. 

JUNE,  1884. 

Lieutenant  KisHngbury  died  on  the  ist,  and  the  usual  burial  service  was  read  over  his  re- 
mains. He  was  an  earnest,  hard-working  officer,  and  had  attained  an  excellent  reputation,  partic- 
ularly for  detached  service  in  the  field  in  connection  with  Indian  scouts.  The  qualities  which 
insured  success  there,  perhaps  caused  him  to  chafe  under  restraint  incident  to  service  where 
his  work  and  actions  were  strictly  limited.  He  was  a  successful  hunter,  a  man  of  very  fine 
physique,  and  never  spared  himself  any  personal  exertion  which  would  add  to  the  personal 
comfort  or  pleasure  of  others.  He  worked  hard  and  manfully  during  our  retreat  and  sub- 
sequent life  at  Cape  Sabine. 

On  the  ist  Long  killed  a  dovekie,  which  I  ordered  divided  between  him  and  Brainard. 
Similar  disposition  was  made  of  one  on  the  2d,  except  that  the  intestines  were  put  in  the  shrimp 
stew  for  the  general  party. 

Corporal  Salor  became  slightly  delirious  on  the  2d  and  died  on  June  3.  He  was  always 
a  patient,  reliable,  and  hard-working  soldier,  and,  as  a  member  of  the  supporting  party  to 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  in  i88c,  he  contributed  in  no  small  degree  to  our  geographical  success. 

Dr.  Pavy  was  very  weak  on  the  3d,  and  evidently  slightly  delirious.  He  appeared  in 
better  mental  condition  on  the  4th,  and  that  .afternoon,  while  I  was  outside  the  tent,  took  from 
the  medicine  chest  the  bottle  of  ergot  and  probably  drank  all  of  its  contents,  some  three 
ounces.     Steward  Biederbick  examined  the  chest  after  Dr.  Pavy  left  it,  but  did  not  notice  the 


I 


i 


90 


THE  LAOY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPEniTIOK. 


absence  of  the  ergot  bottle,  as  it  was  a  medicine  which  was  not  used.    The  doctor  died  at  6  p,  m. 
of  the  6th,  his  death  possibly  hastened  by  his  takinjj  erjjot,  probably  by  mistake. 

Dr.  Pavy  was  a  man  of  fine  education,  jwlished  manners,  and  fjreat  Arctic  ambition.  To 
his  credit  I  have  to  record  the  restless  energy  which  marked  his  physical  exertions  in  l)ehalf 
of  the  party  dnring  the  last  month  of  his  life  at  Cape  Sabine.  His  medical  skill,  in  my 
opinion,  was  great,  and  contributed  much  to  the  general  welfare  of  the  party  the  last  winter. 
It  must  lie  added  that  his  changeable  moods  and  previous  Hohemian  life  luifitted  him  for  duty 
when  his  actions  were  subjected  to  restriction  or  limitation  from  others. 

On  the  4th  Long  succeeded  in  obtaining  one  dovekie  out  of  .seven  killed.  I  ordered  the 
dovekie  to  be  issued  to  the  hunters,  who  could  barely  walk.  Hciider  begged,  with  tears,  for  his 
twelfth,  which  I  finally  gave  him,  though  some  of  the  ])arty  urg»"d  strongly  that  he  should  not 
have  it.  There  was  some  feeling  over  this  point  after  Mender's  allowance  was  given  him.  I 
iufonned  Hendcr  that  the  hunters  must  be  kept  on  their  feet,  and  unless  they  were  kept  in 
such  condition  as  to  obtain  shrimps  and  game  the  party  must  inevitably  perish.  I  al.so 
informed  Sergeant  Long  that  in  case  he  feared  trouble  over  the  division  of  any  bird  brought 
in  he  had  best  retain  and  eat  his  share  of  the  game,  as  his  strength  must  be  maintained. 

Private  Hender  became  weaker  on  the  5th  and  died  on  the  6th.  He  was  an  ingenious, 
hard-working  man,  who  had  done  good  .servicf.'  in  various  ways  during  the  two  years  at  Conger, 
and  in  improvising  articles  at  Cape  Sabine. 

On  the  4th  Henry  was  detected  taking  shrimps,  and  Schneider  and  Bender  were  also 
suspected. 

June  5th  I  had  a  conversation  with  Pt.'vate  Henry,  in  which  he  admitted  his  many 
offenses  and  promised  to  deal  fairly  in  future.  h\  default  of  moral  feeling  I  appealed  to  his 
sense,  pointing  out  the  certainty  that  the  few  remaining  could  survive  only  by  unity  and  fair 
dealing,  and  that  otherwise  everybody  would  perish  ;  and  I  cautioned  him  of  his  coming  to 
grief  if  he  did  not  act  properly.  I  felt  doubtful  of  his  sincerity,  however,  and  consequently 
gave  written  orders  (Appendix  No.  122)  to  watch  him,  and,  if  found  stealing,  shoot  him.  On 
the  6th  Frederick,  while  cooking,  detected  Henry  taking  shrimps  from  the  general  mess-pot 
when  his  back  was  turned,  which  Frederick  reported  to  me.  Not  being  armed  at  that  time 
he  could  not  comply  with  my  orders.  Later  Henry  made  two  trips  to  our  winter  hut,  and, 
after  the  second,  passed  me,  and  on  being  questi.  .,^d  admitted  that  he  had  in  a  bundle  on  his 
shoulder  some  seal-skin  thongs,  and  had  elsewhere  concealed  seal-skin.  An  order  (.\ppendix 
No.  118)  was  issued,  directing  his  execution.  Owing  to  Henry's  strength,  which  was  greater 
than  that  of  any  other  two  men,  the  necessity  of  caution  to  prevent  general  disaster  was 
obvious,  and  arrangements  were  made  accordingly.  Shots  were  heard  about  2  o'clock,  and 
later  the  order  was  read  to  the  general  party.  Every  one,  without  exception,  acknowledged 
that  his  fate  was  merited.  Considerable  quantities  of  seal-skin  were  found  in  his  clothes-bag, 
and  also  a  pair  of  my  seal-skin  boots,  loaned  to  the  hunter  and  stolen  from  him  a  few 
nights  before,  though  Long  thought  they  had  blown  away.  On  Henry's  person  was  also  found 
a  silver  chronograph,  which  had  been  packed  and  left  by  me  at  Conger  and  stolen  by  him 
on  leaving  the  station. 

Private  Long  brought  in  a  dovekie  on  the  6th,  which  was  divided  between  the  hunters 
and  the  cook,  although  some  remarks  were  made  concerning  it. 

On  the  6th  we  commenced  eating  a  great  deal  of  tripe  de  rochc  (a  large  black  lichen), 
which  the  doctor  had  said  was  injurious  ;  and  on  the  7th  Biederbick,  Council,  Frederick,  and 
I  commenced  collecting,  systematically,  reindeer  moss,  tripe  de  roc/ie,  and  saxifrage,  while 
Long  hunted  and  Brainard  caught  shrimps.  These  lichens  proved  very  palatable  and  nutri- 
tious, and  were  regularly  gathered  thereafter.  Gardiner,  Schneider,  and  Elison  were  then 
hejpless.  I  could  only  drag  myself  fifty  yards  (46")  from  the  tent  to  rocks  where  I  could  hunt 
these  lichens.     Biederbick  and  Council  could  go  farther,  though  very  weak  and  feeble. 


J 


The  lady  franklin  hay  bxemiditiox. 


•t 


On  the  morning  of-  the  7th  all  the  shrimps  on  hand  were  eaten  for  breakfast,  the  first 
time  we  were  withont  a  snpply  of  them,  and  we  commenced  that  eveninjj  on  seal-skin  stews, 
from  boot-soles. 

On  the  8th  a  bnnch  of  pnrple  saxifrage  was  found  in  full  bloom,  the  first  specimen  since 
May  21.  I<ou>>;  was  sick  on  the  gth — his  thirty-secoml  birthday — and  coidd  not  hunt.  A 
spoonful  of  our  last  gill  of  brandy  was  given  him  for  his  birthday. 

.On  the  loth  a  dovekie  was  brought  in,  which  went  to  the  hunters,  although  there  were 
some  unpleasant  remarks  about  it.      I  urged  that  the  end  should  be  met  decently. 

About  that  time  in  Sergeant  Gardiner's  ca.se  inflammation  of  the  bowels  set  in,  owing  to 
excessive  constipation,  and  on  the  12th  he  died.  A  young  man  of  excellent  habits  and  dispo- 
sition, with  ambition  and  application,  he  had  been  a  valuable  man  to  the  expedition  and  had 
endeared  him.self  to  his  comrades.  His  strong  wil',  and  iuten.se  affectionate  desire  to  return  to 
his  wife  and  mother,  doubtless  did  much  to  prolong  his  life. 

On  the  1 2th  of  June  a  distre.ss-sigual  was  erected  by  Sergeant  Krainard  on  the  adjacent 
cliffs,  it  being,  as  my  memory  then  .served  me,  the  average  date  of  the  whalers  reaching  North 
water.  The  13th  Steward  Biederbick  was  formally  discharged,  for  expiration  of  term  of  service, 
and  re-enlisted  on  the  14th.     The  gth  he  had  promi.sed  to  fulfil  his  contract  to  the  (iovernment. 

On  the  13th  my  .seal-skin  jumper,  reserved  for  shrimp-bait,  was  divided  between  the  party 
and  eaten  roasted;  and  the  oil-tanned  covering  on  my  sleeping-bag  was  cut  off  and  divided 
between  the  party  on  that  and  the  following  day. 

On  the  15th  the  hunters,  who  had  been  eating  such  lichens  as  they  could  gather  while 
out,  owing  to  comments,  decided  to  put  in  the  general  mess  all  they  collected.  The  .same  day 
Private  Schneider  piteously  begged  for  opium  pills  to  end  his  life;  but  Steward  Hiederbick 
concealed  them,  to  avert  any  possible  con.sequenccs. 

On  the  i6th  Sergeant  Brainard  found  minimum  thermometer  No.  590,  which  had  been 
blown  away  by  the  gale  of  December  2.  The  day  following  Sergeant  Brainard  collected  his 
last  shrimps,  his  nets  being  carried  away  by  the  ice  breaking  up.  The  amount  collected  in 
June  had  only  been  forty-four  pounds. 

On  the  i8th  Schneider,  who  had  gradually  become  weaker  and  been  helpless  for  some- 
time, died.  He  had  done  good  .service  at  Conger  not  only  as  a  clerk  but  also  in  raising  and 
breaking  the  puppies,  withont  which  our  geographical  work  would  have  been  limited. 

It  is  not  in  the  province  of  this  report  to  dwell  on  the  remarkable  energy  and  daring  dis- 
played by  Captain  Schley  and  Lieutenant  Emory  in  pushing  their  ve.s.sel  through  the  dangers 
of  Melville  Bay,  and  thus  snatching  the  remnant  of  the  party  from  death.  When  found,  we 
had  experienced  the  violence  of  a  heavy  gale  for  two  and  a  half  days,  and  for  one  and  a  half 
had  been  without  food  or  water,  save  an  ounce  or  so  of  half-boiled  or  roasted  oil-tanned  seal- 
skin, which  each  man  had  by  him.  Our  tent  had  blown  down  and  the  heavy  canvas  piimed 
Sergeants  Brainard,  Long,  and  myself  to  the  ground.  Connell  was  but  half-conscious,  and  a 
day  later  would  have  seen  the  death  of  several.  Steward  Biederbick' s  first  action  was  in 
keeping  with  his  previous  conduct,  showing  his  thoughtfulness  and  unselfishness.  The  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  rum  which  remained  in  his  charge  were  poured  out  immediately.  One  was 
given  to  Coptiell,  and  the  last  offered  me,  but,  on  my  refusal,  went  with  its  fellow. 

It  seem'-'d  then  to  me  impossible  that  the  relief  ship  should  venture  on  that  coast  in  such 
a  gale,  whici.  was  yet  so  violent  that  although  under  the  lee  of  and  protected  by  the  high  cliffs 
we  were  transported  to  the  .ships  with  difficulty.  It  evidenced  most  strongly  Captain  Schley's 
appreciation  of  the  exigency  of  the  situation.  From  the  officers  of  the  relief  .squadron  we 
received  the  most  careful  and  considerate  kindnesses,  not  such  as  come  in  the  mere  line  of  their 
official  duty,  but  such  as  spring  from  men's  hearts  when  moved  by  pity  and  compassion. 

In  mentioning  Captain  Schley,  Lieutenant  Emory,  and  Chief  Engineer  Melville  in  this 
respect,  I  must  add  that  none  were  second  in  good  offices  to  those  named.  The  watchful  skill 
and  unceasing  attentions  of  Doctors  Green  and  Ames  insured  the  building  up  of  the  faint 


: 


i 

i 

I 

I 

f 


ri   i 


@i  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

spark  of  vitality  which  remained  in  us.     Less  firnincssand  attention  might  easily  have  proved 
fatal. 

Sergeant  Elison  died  July  8,  18S4,  at  Godhavn,  consequent  on  secondary  amputation, 
which  was  absolutely  necessary,  though  with  a  faint  chance  of  success.  For  over  seven  and  a 
half  months  his  indomitable  will-power  and  naturally  fine  physique  had  kept  this  man  alive, 
although  he  lost  both  hands  and  both  feet  by  natural  amputation.  That  during  this  time  he 
was  fed,  nursed,  and  cared  for  by  starving  men,  his  comrades,  speaks  for  itself  as  to  the 
humanity  of  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  E.xpedition.  Sergeant  Elison  was  an  honest,  faithful 
man,  who  never  spared  himself  pain  or  trouble  when  he  could  advance  the  interests  of  the 
expedition.  He  was  equally  serviceable  in  the  workshop,  in  the  field,  as  botanist  and  natural 
history  collector,  or  as  carpenter  or  sledgeman. 

As  to  our  return  home  and  subsequent  receptions,  the  public  press  have  heralded  those. 
The  grateful  words  of  thanks  from  the  President,  in  behalf  of  himself  and  the  nation,  the  elo- 
quent message  at  St.  John's  from  the  honorable  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  together  with  public 
receptions  and  invitations  which  have  come  to  me,  are  most  highly  valued,  not  personally, 
but  for  the  recognition,  through  their  chief,  of  the  living  and  the  dead  of  the  Lady  Franklin 
Bay  Expedition,  and  of  that  which  their  hands  wrought,  their  labors  accomplished. 

I  have  felt  it  necessary  in  the  preparation  of  this  report  to  enter  more  fully  into  details 
connected  with  the  retreat  and  our  subsequent  experiences  at  Cape  Sabine  than  perhaps  seems 
called  for  in  a  general  report.  I  have  touched  on  many  disagreeable  points,  and  ignored  none 
of  importance,  solely  because  if  they  were  neglected  it  might  seem  as  though  the  many  exag- 
gerated and  erroneous  statements,  put  forth  in  general  terms  as  to  the  misconduct  of  certain 
members  of  the  expeditiv^n,  'vere  correct  and  justified. 

The  attached  journals  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Sergeant  Brainard  speak  for  them- 
selves (Appendices  Nos.  123  and  124). 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  a  man  of  unvarying  truthfulness,  good  judgment,  and  Christian 
charity.  His  journal  was  written  in  shorthand,  in  a  method  but  little  known,  and  its  complete 
translation  (from  leaving  Conger  to  his  death),  without  omission,  is  found  herewith.  Though 
Lieutenant  Lockwood' s  mental  powers  were  necessarily  affected  for  several  months  prior  to 
his  death  by  his  extremely  enfeebled  physical  condition,  yet  such  weakness  never  revealed 
itself  in  the  shape  of  severe  and  unkind  comments,  even  in  matters  disagreeably  affecting 
himself     The  tone  of  this  journal  indicates  the  character  of  the  officer  who  penned  it. 

-  Sergeant  Brainard's  journal  covers  the  period  from  our  besetment  in  the  pack  until  our 
rescue.  Its  contents,  in  a  like  manner,  speak  the  man.  His  journal  is  used  because  he  is 
the  only  one  of  the  survivors  who  kept  a  regular  diary.  Thus  the  story  is  told  by  a  dead  and 
by  a  living  witness. 

In  regard  to  the  general  conduct  of  the  expedition  during  the  year  after  leaving  Conger, 
any  impartial  critic  must  speak  of  it  in  terms  of  commendation.  Courage,  patience,  and 
fortitude  characterized  all,  both  living  and  dead.  If,  in  a  few  cases,  impatient  spirits  gave 
expression  to  indiscreet  and  insubordinate  utterances,  yet  such  feelings  vented  themselves  in 
words,  without  demoralizing  the  party  or  weakening  the  bonds  of  discipline  which  united  us 
as  a  whole.     To  .say  we  were  always  a  command,  never  a  mob,  epitomizes  the  record. 

As  to  cases  where  men  were  guilty  of  appropriation  of  the  food  of  others  to  themselves, 
I  bear  in  mind,  now  as  then,  the  great  temptation  which  slowly  starving  men  must  necessarily 
experience  when  food  is  within  their  reach.  The  spirit  of  conciliation  and  forbearance  which 
I  .so  long  exercised,  while  such  a  policy  .seemed  possible  without  fatal  results,  was  followed  by 
the  execution  of  Private  Henrv,  which  the  exigency  of  the  case  demanded.  I  attach  herewith, 
as  appropriate  appendices,  the  orders  in  the  case,  as  well  as  the  previous  report  to  the  honorable 
the  Secretary  of  War,  and  his  reply,  approving  of  my  course  in  the  matter.  (See  Appendices 
Nos.  118,  122,  119,  120.)  It  was  only  after  repeated  thefts  that  this  terrible  retribution  felt 
upon  Henry.     The  execution  was  regarded  by  me  sim  ply  in  the  light  of  a  self-defensi  for  the 


.  'yMW***'-'^  '' 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITiON. 


93 


re  nnant  of  my  party  and  myself.  While  deeminp^  the  ptinishment  merited,  I  appreciated  fully 
the  tremendous  temptation  it  was  to  a  man  like  Henry  (who  was,  as  lie  acknowledjjjed  himself, 
devoid  of  mouJ  principles)  to  take  that  which  was  liefore  him,  and  which  would,  in  a  measure, 
satisfy  him  physiraily. 

As  to  other  matters  which  have  engajjed  an  undue  share  of  public  attention,  while  hav- 
ing no  official  knowledge  of  the  facts  in  the  case,  yet  the  respoiisil)ility  of  i,!'  action  in  con- 
nection with  such  an  expedition  rightfully  and  properly  rests  upon  the  commanding  officer. 
In  assuming  the  entire  responsibility  in  that  connection,  I  'now  of  no  law,  either  human  or 
divine,  which  was  broken  at  Cape  Sabine,  and  so  do  not  feel  called  on  as  an  officer  or  man  to 
dwell  longer  on  such  a  painful  topic. 

In  Appendix  No.  121  will  be  found  the  dates  and  causes  of  death  of  the  various  members 
of  the  expedition. 

I  should  be  unjust  to  the  dead  did  I  not  call  attention  to  their  arduous  labors,  heroic 
endurance,  and  unriiiiching  determination  which  advanced  the  national  ensign  to  an  unpar- 
alleled latitude,  carried  out  the  programme  of  international  scientific  observations,  increased 
perhaos  in  an  unequaled  degree  in  this  century  our  knowledge  of  the  physical  characteristics 
and  configurations  of  polar  lands,  and  who,  !nore  than  all,  in  perhaps  the  most  successful 
Arctic  boat  journey  of  the  age,  brought  safely,  at  the  price  of  great  bodily  suffering  and  dimin- 
ished chances  of  life,  through  a  dense  polar  pack,  their  records  to  a  point  whence  they  would 
eventually  reach  the  world.     They  died  for  that  end,  and  should  not  be  forgotten. 

It  would  be  equally  unjust  not  to  mention  the  services  of  the  living.  The  lack  of  pre- 
cedent forbade  the  War  Department  from  confirming  appointments  and  promotions  made  by 
me  in  the  exigencies  of  my  position.  The  necessity  of  maintaining  the  dignity  of  the  service 
likewise  interfered  to  their  detriment  when  public  interest  was  in  a  way  of  rewarding  them 
with  moderate  fortunes. 

Two  of  these  men.  Hospital  Steward  Henry  Biederbicl'  and  Sergeant  J.  R.  Frederick,  have 
been  discharged  from  the  service,  on  surgeons  certificate  (  ♦  disability,  and,  in  a  maimed  con- 
dition, are  adventuring  the  gain  of  their  livelihood.  The  three  remaining  are  now  members  of 
the  Signal  Service,  on  application  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer.  As  a  reward  in  some  way  com- 
mensurate with  the  successful  work  done  by  them,  and  the  extraordinary  suffering  entailed 
through  no  fault  of  their  own,  I  respectfully  recommend  that  their  Arctic  services  ina>  be 
considered  as  rendering  all  these  men  eligible  for  appointment  for  the  retired-list  of  the  Army, 
as  of  the  grades  of  signal-sergeants  and  hospital-steward. 

I  am  conscious  of  the  many  defects  in  this  report,  which  could  have  been  remedied  if 
longer  time  and  better  health  had  been  mine.  It  has  been  rare  that  Arctic  commanders,  re- 
turning in  health,  have  been  able  to  make  a  formal  report  of  their  experiences  in  a  shorter 
time  than  that  occupied  in  the  prosecution  of  the  work  itself  The  great  public  interest  shown 
in  the  fortunes  of  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition  seems  to  me  a  valid  reason  why  no 
longer  delay  should  be  had  in  this  matter. 

Until  authority  can  be  obtained  from  Congress  for  the  publicatlc/U  of  this  report,  with  its 
complete  appv  ndices,  I  shall,  with  your  permission,  occupy  my  time  in  perfecting  and  arrang- 
ing the  scientific  observations,  and  in  deducing  such  results  as  may  be  possible  in  that  limited 
period.*  . 

I  attach  hereto,  as  convenient  for  use  and  reference,  a  list  showing  the  number  of  ap- 
pendices and  the  title  of  the  subject-matier  on  which  they  dwell. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  .servant, 

A.  W.  GREELY, 
•  First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  .Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Hay  Jixpedition. 

*  This  work  has  been  carried  out  and  the  observations  have  been  os  fully  discussed  as  means  and  opimrtunity  have  per- 
mitted. 


!PJI 


LIST  OF  APPENDICES  FILED  WITH  THE  FOREGOING  REPORT. 


1.  V/ar  Dcpariment  order  assigt\ing  Lieutenant  Greely  to 

command. 

2.  War  Department  order  organizing  the  expedition. 

3.  Instructions  from  the  Signal  Office  regarding  tlie  expe- 

dition. 

4.  List    of   commissary   subsistence   stores,  with    remarks 

thereon. 

5.  Records  left  at  and  taken  from  Southeast  Cary  Island, 

August,  1881. 

6.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  report  of  (rip  to  Life  Boat  Cove. 

7.  Records  taken  from  and  left  at  Washington  Irving  Island, 

August,  1 88 1. 

8.  Records  obtained  at  Discovery  Harlror,  August,  1881. 

9.  Lieutenant    Lockwood's   report  on   Water-course    Bay, 

August,  1 881. 

10.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  request  to  be  relieved,  with 
Lieutenant  Greely's  statement. 

SI.  Orders  No.  5, relieving  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  or- 
dering him  to  report  to  ihe  Chief  Signal  Officer. 

12.  Orders  No.  6  amending  orders  No.  5. 

13.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  recjuest  for  modification  of  or- 

ders No.  6. 

14.  Orders  No.  8  modifying  orders  No.  6. 

15.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  exploration  of  St.  Pal- 

rick  Valley. 

16.  Sergeant  iirainard's  report  establishing  depot  B  nearCjpe 

Becchey. 

17.  Sergeant  Jewell's  meteorological  rei)ort  in  connection  with 

trip  establishing  deyml  B. 

18.  Sergeant  Gardiner's  report  of  trip  to  Cape  Murchison. 

19.  Sergeant  Linn's  report  on  moving  depc  .  A  to  Cape  Mur- 

chison. 

20.  Orders  to  Dr.'Pavy  for  overlanil  journey  to  Lincoln  Bay. 

21.  Report  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  trip  to  Lincoln  Bay. 

22.  Report  of  Lieut.  Lockwood  on  journey  to  the  Bellows. 

23.  Crd'rs  to  Dr.  Pavy  on  exploring  Archer  Fi'  ;d 

24.  Report  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  attempted  trip  down  Archer  Fiord. 

25.  ReiKirt  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  on  sledge  journey  to 

depot  B  near  Cape  Bcechey. 

26.  Rcix)rt  of  Sergei:nt  Rice  on  sledge  journey  to  depot  B 

near  Cape  Beechey. 

27.  Orders  lo  Dr.  Pavy  to  proceed  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry. 

28.  Reiwrt  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  trip  towards  Cape  Joseph  Henry. 

29.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  .St.  Patrick  Valley. 

30.  .Sergeant  Rice's  report  on  camp  e(|Hipage. 

31.  Lieutenant    Lockwood's  orders   to  attempt  crossing  of 

Robeson  Channel. 

32.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  attempted  crossing  of 

Robeson  Channel. 

33.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  for  journey  to  Wrangel  Bay. 


3''.  Dr.  Pavy's  report  on  journey  to  Wrangel  Bay. 

35.  Dr.  Pavy's  supplementary  report  under   Appendices  27 

and  33. 

36.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  for  preliminary  journey  to 

Cape  Beechey. 

37.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Ap- 

pendix No.  36. 

38.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  for  journey  to  Thank  God 

Harbor. 

39.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Ap- 

pendix No.  38. 

40.  English  records  obtained  at  Thank  God  Harbor. 

41.  Dr.  I'pvy's  orders  to  carry  provisioi  s  to  Greenland  coast. 

42.  Dr.  Pavy's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No. 

41. 

43.  Sergeant  Iirainard's  orders  to  move  boat  to  Uieenland 

coast. 

44.  Sergeant  Brt'inard's  report  on  trip  ordered  in  Appendix 

No.  43. 

45.  Sergeant  Jewell'i  report  on  trip  to  Lincoln  Bay  while 

supporting  Dr.  Pavy. 

46.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  for  journey  northward  over  Polar  ocean. 

47.  Dr.  Pavy's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  46. 

48.  Sergeant  Rice's  report  on  detached  trip  from  Lincoln  Bay 

to  Fort  Conger  and  return. 

49.  Private  I.o.ig's  rejiort  on  trip  into  Archer  Fiord. 

50.  Sergeant  Israel's  report  on  trip  into  the  Bellows. 

51.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  to  explore  north  coast  of 

Greenland. 

52.  Supplementary  instructions  for  exploration  of  north  coast 

of  Greenland. 

53.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  exploration  of  north 

coast  of  Greenland. 

54.  Report  of  Private  Biederbick's  trip  into  Black  Rock  Vale. 

55.  Sergeant  Linn's  report  of  trip  into  Black  Rock  Vale. 

56.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  rejxjrt  of  launch  trip  up  Archer 

Fiord. 

57.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  of  launch  trip  up  Chand- 

ler Fiord. 

58.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  to  proceed  lo  Carl  Ritter  Bay. 

59.  Sergeant  Klison's  report  of  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay. 

60.  Sergeant  Brainard's  report  of  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay. 

61.  Orders  establishing  day  of  "Thanksgiving." 

62.  Dr.  Pavy's  letter  of  March  8,  1883. 

63.  Lieutenant  Greely's  answer  to  Dr.  Pavy's  letter  of  March 

8,  1 88 J. 

64.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  for  preliminary  journey 

northward,  l88j. 

65.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Ap- 

pc.idix  No.  64. 

OB  • 


96 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


M  U  ! 


66.  Sergeant  Jewell's  report  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  relative 

to  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  64. 

67.  Orders  to  Lieutenant  I.ockwood  for  exploration  of  Green- 

land, 1883. 

68.  Sergeant  Rice's  orders  for  journey  to  Thank  God  Harbor. 

69.  Dr.  Pavy's  orders  for  journey,  as  surgeon,  to  Thank  God 

Harbor. 

70.  Lieut. Lockwood's  report  on  trip  to  North  Greenland. 

71.  Sergeant  Jewell's  reiwrt  on  tidal  observations  made  on 

trip  to  North  Greenland. 

72.  Sergeant  Rice's  reiwrt  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor. 

73.  Dr.  Pavy's  medical  rejxjrt  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor. 

74.  Orders  for  Sergeant  Jewell  for  tidal  observations  at  Cape 

Beechey. 

75.  Report  of  Sergeant  Jewell  on  tidal  observations  at  Cape 

Beechey. 

76.  Orders   for  Sergeant  Ciardiner  for  tidal  observations  at 

Cape  Baird. 

77.  Orders  for  Sergeant  Israel  for  astronomical  observations 

at  Cape  Baird. 

78.  Report  of  Sergeant  Israel  on  observations  ordered  in  Ap- 

pendix No.  77, 

79.  Re|X)rt  of  Se.gcant  (Gardiner  on  tidal  and  ice  observations 

at  Cape  Baird. 

80.  Report  of  Sergeant  Jewell  on  paleocrystic  ice. 

81.  Orders  to  Sergeant  Jewell  for  tidal  observations  at  Cape 

Heechey. 

82.  Report  of  Sergeant  Jewell  on  tidal  observations  at  Cape 

Heechey. 

83.  Sergeant  lirainard's  leport  on  journey  to  Cape  Cracroft. 

84.  Sergeant  (Gardiner's  report  on  journey  to  Cape  Cracroft. 

85.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  orders  to  cross  Grinnell  Land. 

86.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  the  crossing  of  Grinnell 

Land. 

87.  Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  relative  to  natural  history  data. 

88.  Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  relative  to  botanical  specimens. 

89.  Orders  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  relieve  Dr.  Pavy  as 

naturalist. 

90.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  report  on  natural  history  si)eci- 

mens  received  from  Dr.  Pavy. 

91.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  letter  and  report  on  natural  his- 

tory specimens,  June  30,  1883. 

92.  Sergeant   llrainard'.s  reirart  on.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's 

trip  towards  the  United  States  mountain  range. 

93.  Orders  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  receive  medical  stores 

from  Dr.  Pavy. 

94.  Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy  asking  'he  detail  of  St  :ward  Bieder- 

bick. 

95.  Reply  of  Lieutenant  Greely  to  Dr.  Pavy'j  request  for  de- 

tail of  Steward  Biederbick. 

96.  Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy's  dated  July  18,  1883. 

97.  Answer  to  letter  referred  to  in  Appendix  No.  96. 

98.  Dr.  Pavy's  refusal  to  turn  over  his  diary. 


99.   Letter  transmitting  charges  to  Dr.  Pavy. 
loo.   Letter  limiting  Dr.  Pavy's  bounds  while  in  arrest, 
loi.  Order  for  the  abamlonment  of  station  at  Fort  Conger. 

102.  List  of  subsistence  stores  abandoned. 

103.  Medical  re])orts. 

104.  Record  left  at  Cape  Raird. 

105.  Records  left  in  abandoned  Imats. 

106.  Records  found  on  Brevoort  Island  (deposited  by  Lieu- 

tenant Garlington  and  Beebe). 

107.  Plan  of  winter  (|uarlers,  Camp  Clay. 

108.  Sergeant  Frederick's  report  of  November  journey  to  Cape 

Isabella. 

109.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  letter,  February  19,  1884. 
no.  Private  Long's  journey  into  Hayes  Sound. 

111.  Sergeant  Frederick's   report  of  journey  to  Baird  Inlet, 

April,  1884. 

112.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  letter,  April  22,  1884. 

113.  Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy,  April  25,  1884. 

114.  Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy,  April  27,  1884. 

irS.  Lieutenant  Greely's  cfrtlficate  to  Dr.  Pavy. 

116.  General  certificate  to  Dr.  Pavy. 

117.  Letter  of  Lieutenant  Greely  on  Dr.  Pavy. 
n8.  Order  for  Private  Henry's  execution. 

119.  Report  of  Private  Henry's  execution. 

120.  Letter  of  Secretary  of  War  approving  Lieutenant  Greely's 

course  regarding  execution  of  Private  Henry. 

121.  List  of  deaths. 

122.  Order  relative  to  Private  Henry  dated  June  5,  l8.'i4. 

123.  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  journal  from  August  3,  1883. 

124.  Sergeant  Brainard's  journal  from  besetment. 

125.  Portion  of  diary  of  Private  Roderick  R.Schneider, found 

on  bank  of  Mississippi  River  in  Missouri,  and  corrc- 
f  ix)ndence  relating  thereto  with  Mr.  J.  A.  Ockerson. 

126.  Description  of  drift-wood. 

127.  List  of  photographs  and  description  of  Eskimo  relics  in 

photographs. 

1 28.  List  of  maps. 

129.  N.itural  history  (Mamn^alia). 

130.  Botany. 

131.  Ornithology.  -^ 

132.  Medusie. 

133.  Kchinodermata,  Vermes,  Crustacea,  and  Pteropod  Mol- 

lusca. 

134.  MoUusca. 

135.  /Vstronomical  observations. 

136.  Hydrography. 

137.  Sound  experiments. 

138.  Meteorology. 
1 381;. Meteors. 

1 39.  Magnetical  reductions  by  U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey. 
l39(/.Magnetical  reductions  l88l-'82. 

140.  Tidal  observations. 

141.  Pendulum  observations. 


APPENDICES. 


Appendix  No.  i. — IVar  Department  order  assigning  Lieutenant  Greely  to  command. 


Special  Orders 
No.  57. 


Headquarters  of  the  Army,  Adjutant-General's  Office, 

Washington,  March  ii,  i88i. 

[Extract.] 


2.  By  direction  of  the  President,  First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely,  Fifth  Cavalry,  acting  signal  officer,  is  hereby 
assigned  to  the  command  of  the  expeditionary  force  now  organizing  under  the  provisions  of  the  acts  of 
Congress  approved  May  i,  1880,  and  March  3, 1881,  to  establish  a  station  north  of  the  eighty-first  degree  of 
north  latitude,  at  or  near  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  for  the  purpose  of  scientific  observation,  &c.,  as  set  forth  in 
said  acts. 

During  his  absence  on  this  duty.  Lieutenant  Greely  will  retain  station  at  Washington,  District  of  Columbia. 


By  command  of  General  Sherman. 


Official: 


R.  C.  Drum, 

Adjutant-  General. 


H.  C.  CORBIN, 

Assistant  Adjutant-General. 


Appendix  No.  2. — War  Department  order  organising  the  expedition. 

General  Orders  »  Headquarters  of  the  Army,  Adjutant-General's  Office, 

No.  35.         S  Washington,  April  \2,  \^^\. 

The  following  order,  received  from  the  War  Department,  is  published  for  the  information  of  the  Army: 
In  order  to  carry  into  execution  the  act  approved  May  i,  1880,  and  so  much  of  the  act  approved  March 
3,  1881,  entitled  "An  act  making  appropriations  for  sundry  civil  expenses  of  the  Government  for  the  fiscal 
year  ending  June  30,  1882,  and  for  other  purposes,"  as  provides  for  "observation  and  exploration  in  the 
Arctic  seas,  for  continuing  the  work  of  scientific  observation  and  exploration  on  or  near  the  shores  ^^  Lady 
Franklin  Bay,  and  for  transportation  of  men  and  supplies  to  said  location  and  return,  twenty-five  thousand 
dollars,"  it  is  ordered : 

I.  First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely,  Fifth  United  States  Cavalry,  acting  signal  officer,  having  volunteered  for 
the  expedition,  shall  take  command  of  the  expeditionary  force,  now  organizing  under  said  act,  to  establish  a 
station  north  of  the  eighty-first  degree  of  north  latitude,  at  or  near  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  for  the  purpose  of 
scientific  observation. 

n.  Lieutenant  Greely  shall  have  authority  to  contract  for  and  purchase  within  the  limits  of  the  appro- 
priation the  supplies  and  transportation  deemed  needful  for  the  expedition ;  and  the  appropriation  for  this 
purpose,  made  by  the  act  approved  March  3,  1881,  shall  be  drawn  from  the  Treasury  and  disbursed,  upon 
proper  vouchers,  by  the  regular  disbursing  officer  of  the  Signal  Service,  under  the  direction  of  the  Chief 
Signal  Officer. 

H.  Mis.  393 7  W 


93 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


in.  The  force  to  be  employed  in  the  expedition  shall  consist  of  two  other  officers,  who  may  volunteer 
t'vjir  services ;  twenty-one  enlisted  men,  who  may  volunteer  from  the  Army  or  be  specially  enlisted  for  the 
purpose ;  and  one  contract  surgeon.  The  latter  to  be  contracted  with  at  such  time  as  he  may  be  able  to  join 
the  party. 

IV.  The  commander  of  the  expedition  is  authorized  to  hire  a  steam  sealer  or  whaler  to  transport  the 
party  from  St.  John's  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  for  a  fixed  sum  •  '^r  month,  under  a  fcrmal  contract  that  shall 
release  the  United  States  from  any  and  all  responsibility  or  claim  for  damages,  in  case  the  steamer  is  injured, 
lost,  or  destroyed.  The  said  contract  shall  include  the  services  and  subsistence  of  the  crew  of  the  vessel, 
and  shall  require  that  the  said  crew  shall  consist  of  one  captain,  two  mates,  one  steward,  two  engineers,  two 
firemen,  and  seven  seamen — not  less  than  fifteen  in  all.  Such  steam  sealer  or  whaler  shall  not  be  hired 
until  it  has  been  inspected  by  an  officer  to  be  detailed  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  for  that  purpose,  and 
found  by  him  fit  for  the  intended  service. 

V.  Ihe  expeditionary  force  shall  be  assembled  at  Washington,  District  of  Columbia,  not  later  than  May 
15,  and  at  St.  John's  not  later  than  June  15,  1881, 

VI.  During  their  absence  on  this  duty  Lieutenant  Greely  and  the  other  officers  of  the  Army  accompa- 
nying the  expedition  will  ret.iin  station  at  Washington,  District  of  Columbia.  The  enlisted  men  who  may 
volunteer  or  be  specially  enlisted  for  this  duty  shall  receive  the  pay  and  commutation  allowances  (except  com- 
mutation for  quarters  and  fuel)  that  accrue  to  men  detached  for  duty  in  Washington,  District  of  Columbia. 

VII.  The  several  Bureaus  of  the  War  Department  will  furnish,  on  requisitions  approved  by  the  Secretary 
of  War,  the  necessary  subsistence,  clothing,  camp  and  garrison  equipage,  transportation  to  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland, and  return,  medicines,  books,  instruments,  hospital  stores,  arms,  and  ammunition.  The  subsistence 
stores  to  be  furnished  as  above  directed  are  for  sale,  not  for  issue,  to  the  officers  and  men  of  the  expeditionary 
force. 

By  command  of  General  Sherman.    '  - 

•i  R.  C.  Drum, 

Adjutant-General. 


Appendix  No.  3. — Instructions  from  the  Signal  Office  regarding  the  expedition. 


Special  Orders  \ 
No.  97.        ) 


War  Department,  Office  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer, 

Washiiij^ton,  D.  C,  yunc  17,  1881. 

I.  By  direction  of  the  Secretary  of  War,  the  following-named  officers  and  enlisted  men  are  assigned  to 
duty  as  the  expeditionary  force  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay: 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely,  Fifth  Cavalry,  acting  signal  officer  and  assistant; 

Second  Lieut.  Frederick  F.  Kislingbury,  Eleventh  Infantry,  acting  signal  officer; 

Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  acting  signal  officer; 

Sergeant  Edward  Israel,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  Army; 

Sergeant  Winfield  S.  Jewell,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  Army; 

Sergeant  George  W.  Rice,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  Army; 

Sergeant  David  C.  Ralston,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  Army; 

Sergeant  Hampden  S.  Gardiner,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  Army; 

Sergeant  William  H.  Cross,  General  Service,  U.  S.  Army ; 

Sergeant  David  L.  Brainard,  Company  L,  Second  Cavalry; 

•Sergeant  David  Linn,  Company  C,  Second  Cavalry; 

Corporal  Daniel  C.  Starr,  Company  F,  Second  Cavalry; 

t Corporal  Paul  Grimm,  Company  H,  Eleventh  Infantry; 

Coqioral  Nicholas  Salor,  Company  H,  Second  Cavalry; 

Corporal  Joseph  Elison,  Company  E,  Tenth  Infantry; 

Private  Charles  B.  Henry,  Company  E,  Fifth  Cavalry ; 

Private  Maurice  Connell,  Company  B,  Third  Cavalry; 


*  Re-enlisted  at  Fort  Conger  under  a  name  slightly  different  in  spelling,  viz,  David  Lynn,  which  accounts  for  the  want  of 
uniformity  in  the  spelling  of  his  name  in  this  rei«)rt.  . 

t  Deserted  and  replaced  by  Private  Roderick  R.  Schneider,  Company  A,  First  Artillery. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


99 


Private  Jacob  Bender,  Company  F,  Ninth  Infantry; 
Priv.'Ue  Francis  Long,  Company  F,  Ninth  Infantry; 

•  Private  WiUiam  Whisler,  Company  F,  Ninth  Infantry; 

•  Private  Henry  Bierderbick,  Company  CI,  Seventeenth  Infantry; 

•  Private  Julius  Fredericks,  Company  L,  Second  Cavalry; 
Private  James  Ryan,  Company  H,  Second  Cavalry; 
Private  William  A.  FUis,  Company  C,  Second  Cavalry. 

II.  In  accordance  with  special  instructions  from  the  Secretary  of  War,  Lieutenant  Greely  will  contract 
at  Disco,  Greenland,  with  Octave  Pavy,  M.  D,,  who  will  thereafter  remain  on  duty  as  acting  assistant  surgeon, 
U.  S.  Army,  with  the  expeditionary  force. 

III.  First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely,  Fifth  Cavalry,  acting  signal  officer  and  assistant  to  the  Chief  Signal 
Officer,  is  hereby  assigned  to  the  command  of  the  expedition,  and  is  charged  with  the  execution  of  the 
orders  and  instructions  given  below.  He  will  forward  all  reports  and  observations  to  the  Chief  Signal 
Officer,  who  is  charged  with  the  control  and  supervision  of  the  expedition. 

W.  B.  Hazkn, 
Brig,  and Bvt.  Maj.  Gen.,  Chief  Signal  Officer,  U.  S.  A. 


Instructions  I  War  Department,  Office  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer, 

No.  72.     J  Washington,  D.  C,  yune  17,  1881. 

The  following  general  instructions  will  govern  in  the  establishment  and  management  of  the  expedition, 
organized  under  Special  Orders  No.  97,  War  Department,  office  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  Washington, 
D.  C,  dated  June  17,  1881. 

The  permanent  station  will  be  established  at  the  most  suitable  point  north  of  the  eighty-first  parallel 
and  contiguous  to  the  coal  seam  discovered  near  Lady  Franklin  Bay  by  the  English  expedition  of  1875. 

After  leaving  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  except  to  obtain  Esquimaux  hunters,  dogs,  clothing,  &c.,  at  Disco 
or  Upemivik,  only  such  stops  will  be  made  as  the  condition  of  the  ice  necessitates,  or  as  are  essential  in  order 
to  determine  the  exact  location  and  condition  of  the  stores  cached  on  the  east  coast  of  Grinnell  Land  by 
the  English  expedition  of  1875.  During  any  enforced  delays  along  that  coast  it  would  be  well  to  supplement 
the  English  depots  by  such  small  caches  from  the  steamer's  stores  of  provisions  as  would  be  valuable  to  a 
party  retreating  southward  by  boats  from  Robeson  Channel.  At  each  point,  where  an  old  depot  is  examined 
or  a  new  one  established,  three  brief  notices  will  be  left  of  the  visit — one  to  be  deposited  in  the  cairn  built  or 
found  standing,  one  to  be  placed  on  the  north  side  of  it,  and  one  to  be  buried  20  feet  [6'"]  north  (magnetic) 
ot  the  cairn.     Notices  discovere  1  in  cairns  will  be  brought  away,  replacing  them,  however,  by  copies. 

The  steamer  should,  on  arrival  at  the  permanent  station,  discharge  her  cargo  with  the  utmost  dispatch, 
and  be  ordered  to  return  to  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  after  a  careful  examination  of  the  seam  of  coal  at  that 
point  has  been  made  by  the  party  to  determine  whether  an  ample  supply  is  easily  procurable.  A  report,  in 
writing,  on  this  subject  will  be  sent  by  the  returning  vessel.  In  case  of  doubt,  an  ample  supply  must  be 
retained  from  the  steamer's  stores. 

By  the  returning  steamer  will  be  sent  a  brief  report  of  proceedings  and  as  full  a  transcript  as  possible 
of  all  meteorological  and  other  observations  made  during  the  voyage. 

After  the  departure  of  the  vessel,  the  energies  of  the  party  should  first  be  devoted  to  the  erection  of  the 
dwelling-house  and  observatories,  after  which  a  sledge  party  will  be  sent,  according  to  the  proposal  made  to 
the  Navy  Department,  to  the  high  land  near  Cape  Joseph  Henry. 

The  sledging  parties  will  generally  work  in  the  interests  of  exploration  and  discovery.  The  work  to  be 
done  by  them  should  be  marked  by  all  possible  care  and  fidelity.  The  outlines  of  coasts  entered  on  charts 
will  be  such  only  as  have  actually  been  seen  by  the  party.  Every  favorable  opjiortunity  will  be  improved 
by  the  sledging  parties  to  determine  accurately  the  geographical  positions  of  all  their  camps,  and  to  obtain 
the  bearing  therefrom  of  all  distant  clifTs,  mountains,  islands,  &c. 

Careful  attention  will  be  given  to  the  collection  of  specimens  of  the  animal,  mineral,  and  vegetable 
kingdoms.  Such  collections  will  be  made  as  complete  as  jiossible,  will  be  considered  the  property  of  the 
Government  of  the  United  States,  and  are  to  be  at  its  disposal. 


•  These  men  reenlisted  at  Fort  Conger  under  names  slightly  different  in  spelling,  viz,  Wi  nam  Whistler,  Henry  Biederbick, 
Julius  Frederick,  which  accounts  lor  the  want  of  uniformity  in  the  spelling  of  their  names  in  this  report. 


I' 


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f   •!   i;   ill 
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100 


THE  LADY  FEANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Special  instructions  regarding  the  meteorological,  magnetic,  tidal,  pendulum,  and  other  observations,  as 
recommended  by  the  Hamburg  International  Polar  Conference,  are  transmitted  herewith. 

It  is  contemplated  that  the  permanent  station  shall  be  visited,  in  1882  and  in  1883,  by  a  steam  sealer  or 
other  vessel,  by  which  supplies  for  and  such  additions  to  the  present  party  as  are  deemed  needful  will  be  sent. 

In  case  such  vessel  is  unable  to  reach  Lady  Franklin  Bay  in  1882  she  will  cache  a  portion  of  her  supplies 
and  all  of  her  letters  and  dispatches  at  the  most  northerly  point  she  attains  on  the  east  coast  of  GrinncU  Land, 
and  establish  a  small  depot  of  supplies  at  Littleton  Island.  Notices  of  the  locality  of  such  depots  will  be 
left  at  one  or  all  of  the  following  places,  viz.  Cape  Hawks,  Cape  Sabine,  and  Cape  Isabella. 

In  case  no  vessel  reaches  the  permanent  station  in  1882,  the  vessel  sent  in  1883  will  remain  in  Smith's 
Sound  until  there  is  danger  of  its  closing  by  ice,  and,  on  leaving,  will  land  all  her  supplies  and  a  party  at 
Littleton  Island,  which  party  will  be  prepared  for  a  winter's  stay,  and  will  be  instructed  to  send  sledge  parties 
up  the  east  side  of  Grinnell  Land  to  meet  this  party.  If  not  visited  in  1882,  Lieutenant  Greely  will  abandon 
his  station  not  later  than  September  1, 1883,  and  will  retreat  southward  by  boat,  following  closely  the  east 
coast  of  Grinnell  Land  until  the  relieving  vessel  is  met  or  Littleton  Island  is  reached. 

A  special  copy  of  all  reports  will  be  made  each  day,  which  will  be  sent  home  each  year  by  the  returning 
•vessel. 

The  full  narrative  of  the  several  branches  will  be  prepared  with  accuracy,  leaving  the  least  possible 
amount  of  work  afterwards,  to  prepare  them  for  publication. 

The  greatest  caution  will  be  taken  at  the  station  against  fire,  and  daily  inspections  made  of  every  spot 
where  fire  can  communicate. 

In  case  of  any  fatal  accident  or  permanent  disability  happening  to  Lieutenant  Greely  the  command  will 
devolve  on  the  officer  next  in  seniority,  who  will  be  governed  by  these  instructions. 

W.  B.  Hazen, 
Brig,  and  Bvt.  Maj.  Gen.,  Chief  Signal  Officer,  U.  S.  A. 


INSTRUCTIONS    FOR    THE   COMMANDING   OFFICERS   OF    THE    INTERNATIONAL    POLAR    STATIONS 

OCCUPIED  BY  THE  SIGNAL  SERVICE. 

I.  General. 

1.  Regular  meteorological  and  other  observations  will  be  maintained  uninterruptedly,  both  at  sea  and  at 
the  permanent  station,  in  accordance  with  instructions  issued  to  Signal  Service  observers  and  those  contained 
in  the  accompanying  extract  from  the  proceedings  of  the  Hamburg  Conference,  to  which  special  notes  are 
appended  where  needed. 

2.  The  original  record  of  these  observations  will  be  kept  in  the  blank  books  supplied  for  this  purpose, 
and  a  fair  copy  of  the  corrected  and  reduced  results  will  be  made  upon  Signal  Service  and  special  forms,  as 
supplied  in  bound  volumes. 

3.  At  sea  a  daily  record  will  be  kept,  by  dead-reckoning  and  astronomical  observations,  of  the  latitude 
and  longitude  of  the  vessel,  by  which  the  positions  at  the  times  of  meteorological  observations  will  be  de- 
duced, and  on  arriving  at  the  permanent  station  the  local  time  and  longitude  will  be  immediately  deter- 
mined, whence  the  Washington  and  Gottingen  times  will  be  found  by  applying  the  correction  for  longitude. 

4.  All  meteorological  and  tidal  observations  will  be  made  at  exact  hours  of  Washington  civil  time  (the 
longitude  of  Washington  Observatory  is  5''  8"  12.09*  west  of  Greenwich).  The  regular  magnetic  obser- 
vations will  be  made  at  even  hours  and  minutes  of  Gottingen  mean  time  (Gottingen  is  o''  39'"  46.24"  east  of 
Greenwich,  or  5''  47°  ^8.33'  east  of  Washington ;  whence  12  noon,  Washington  time,  is  simultaneous  with 
5''  47™  58.33"  p.  m.  Gottingen  time,  or  6*"  12'"  1.67*  a.  m.  Washington  time  is  simultaneous  with  12  noon 
at  Gottingen). 

If  hourly  meteorological  observations  of  all  these  phenomena  cannot  be  taken,  then  if  possible,  takebi- 
hourly  observations  at  the  hours  i,  3,  5,  7,  9,  11  a.  m.  and  p.  m.,  or  at  least  six  observations  at  3,  7,  and  11 
a.  m.  and  p.m.    On  xio  account  will  the  meteorological  observation  at  7  a.  m.,  Washington  time,  be  omitted. 

5.  Upon  arrival  at  the  permanent  station  the  local  time  and  longitude  will  be  determined  at  once, 
without  waiting  for  the  erection  of  permanent  shelters,  which  will  be  built  for  the  meteorological,  magnetic, 
and  astronomical  instruments  according  to  the  plans  and  material  as  specified. 


,1    {iii 


THE  LADY  FRAiiKLlN  BAY  EXPPJDITION. 


101 


The  meteorological  and  astronomical  observatories  will  be  located  conveniently  near  to  the  dwelling  of  the 
observers,  but  that  of  the  magnetic  observatory  will  be  determined  by  the  consideration  that  these  instruments 
must  be  removed  from  all  danger  of  being  affected  by  the  presence  of  steel  or  iron,  including  galvanized  and 
tinned  iron.    If  needed  to  keep  oflf  intruders,  a  guard  or  fence  should  surround  the  magnetic  observatory. 

6.  The  observation  of  tides  will  be  made  as  complete  as  possible  in  summer  by  a  gauge  on  the  shore, 
and  in  winter  through  an  opening  in  the  ice,  according  to  the  instructions  furnished  by  the  Superintendent 
of  the  U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey.  The  necessity  for  observing  the  tides  will  suggest  that  the  dwelling- 
house  should  be  located  as  near  the  sea  as  is  safe  and  convenient. 

7.  In  addition  to  the  ship's  log  and  the  official  journal  of  the  party,  to  be  kept  by  the  commanding 
officer,  and  the  official  record  of  observations,  to  be  kept  by  the  meteorological,  magnetic,  tidal,  and  astro- 
nomical observers,  each  member  of  the  party  will  be  furnished  with  a  diary,  in  which  he  will  record  all  such 
incidents  as  specially  interest  him.  This  diary  will  not  be  open  to  inspection  until  delivered  to  the  Chief 
Signal  Officer  for  his  sole  use  in  compiling  the  full  record  of  the  expedition. 

8.  Accurate  representations,  either  by  the  photographic  process  or  sketching,  will  be  made  of  all  phe- 
nomena of  an  unusual  character,  or  of  whatever  is  characteristic  of  the  country. 

9.  Carefully  prepared  topographical  maps  will  be  made  of  as  much  of  the  surrounding  country  as  is 
practicable. 

II.  Detailed  Instructions  concerning  Observations,  Instruments,  and  Time,  by  the  Interna- 
tional  Polar  Conference,  Hamburg,  October  i  to  5,  1879. 

[Translated  at  the  office  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  with  added  notes  in  italics.] 

■  f.   OBLIGATORY   OBSERVATIONS    IN   THE    DOMAIN   OF    METEOROLOGY. 


No.  17.  Temperature  of  the  Air. — The  mercurial  thermometers  should  be  graduated  to  two-tenths 
degrees  centigrade,  anil  the  alcohol  thermometers  to  whole  degrees,  and  both  verified  at  a  central  meteoro- 
logical station  to  within  one-tenth  degree  centigrade. 

The  thermometers  furnished  are  j^raduated  to  Fahrenheit ;  they  have  been  compared  with  the  Signal  Sen'ice 
standard,  and  are  provided  with  correction  cards. 

No.  18.  The  instruments  should  be  placed  at  an  altitude  of  between  1.5  and  2.0  meters  (5  to  6  feet), 
and  it  is  recommended  that  they  be  exposed  in  a  double  shelter  of  lattice  work,  according  to  Wild's  method. 
The  outer  shelter  to  be  of  wood,  the  inner  of  metal.  The  observations  of  minimum  thermometers  can  be 
made  under  various  conditions. 

The  shelters  furnished  consist  of  an  outer  wooden  louver  work  and  an  inner  galvanized  iron  shelter,  both 
framed  so  as  to  be  easily  set  up.  The  minimum  temperatures  at  various  altitudes  above  ground  will  be  observed, 
and  under  such  various  conditions  as  circumstances  suggest. 

No.  19.  The  alcohol  thermomctcs  ought  to  be  compared  at  the  station  of  observation  with  the  standard 
mercurial  thermometer  at  the  lowest  possible  temperatures.* 

No.  20.  Sea  temperatures  should  be  observed,  whenever  possible,  at  the  surface  and  at  each  10  meters 
(about  33  feet)  of  depth;  as  instruments,  proper  for  this  observation,  the  following  may  be  specified:  Deep- 
sea  thermometers,  as  manufactured  or  invented  by  Ekninnn;  Negretti  &  Zambra;  Miller-Casella;  Jansen. 

While  at  sea  the  temperature  of  the  surface-water  will  be  observed  hourly,  with  the  Signal  Service  water 
thermometer,  by  the  ordinary  methods,  and  the  temperature  at  each  33  feet  of  depth,  whenever  practicable;  for 
greater  depths,  one  of  the  above  deep-sea  instruments  will  be  used. 

No.  21.  The  point  0°  centigrade  [32°  Fahrenheit],  for  all  the  thermometers^  should  be  determined 
from  time  to  time. 

The  testing  of  thermometers  will  be  made  quarterly,  according  to  the  usual  Signal  Service  rules. 

No.  2  2.  Pressure  of  the  Air. — At  each  station  there  must  be  at  least  two  well-compared  mercurial  barome- 
ters, a  reserve  barometer  and  an  aneroid. 

No.  23.  The  standard  barometer  ought  to  be  compared  or  read  once  each  day. 

*  For  notes  on  special  thermometers,  prepared  for  the  Signal  Service  stations,  see  Section  III  of  these  instructions. 


102 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


Several  mercurial  and  aneroid  barometers  are  furnished,  and  all  regular  ohsen'ations  tvilt  be  made  from  a 
mercurial  barometer,  selected  from  among  them,  which  will  be  compared,  once  each  day,  with  the  standard  barom- 
eter. All  barometers  7i>ill  he  fully  compared  with  the  standard  once  each  month;  such  comparative  readings  will 
be  entered  on  the  regular  Signal  Service  forms  for  this  purpose. 

No.  24.  Humidity. — The  psychrometers  (/.  e.,  dry  and  wet  bulb)  and  hair  hygrometer  will  be  used  with 
Regnault's  dew-point  apparatus  as  a  check,  according  to  Wild's  instructions. 

Comparative  readings,  with  these  instruments,  will  be  frequently  made  and  carefully  presented  for  future 
study. 

No.  25.  The  Wind. — The  wind-vane  and  Robinson's  anemometer  are  to  be  read  from  within  the  house 
(see  the  method  of  construction  of  the  apparatus  of  the  Swedish  station  at  Spitzbergen),  at  the  same  time; 
the  force  of  the  wind  will  be  estimated  according  to  the  Beaufort  scale  and  the  wind-direction  to  16  compass 
points,  referred  to  the  true  meridian. 

The  points  of  the  compass  on  the  wind-dial  will  be  adjusted  to  the  true  meridian  as  is  ordered  for  all  Signal 
Service  stations/  self-registering  instruments,  of  the  Signal  Service  pattern,  for  the  velocity  and  diiection  of  the 
wind  to  B  points  will  be  used.  A  record  of  wind-force  on  the  Beaufort  scalt  (o  to  12),  and  wind-direction  to  16 
points  will  also  be  kept  and  will  be  entered  in  the  special  column. 

No.  26.  To  aid  in  deciding  the  question  wliether  the  Robinson's  anemometer,  with  large  or  with  rmall 
cups,  should  be  used  for  determining  the  force  of  storms  in  the  Polar  zone,  it  is  recommended  that  both 
such  be  subjected  to  preliminary  experiments. 

Anemometers  of  the  Signal  Sen-ice  pattern,  having  small  cups  and  short  arms,  are  the  only  ones  that  it  is 
convenient  to  furnish.  For  comparative  purposes  keep  two  of  these  in  permanent  daify  use,  exposing  them  in  dif- 
ferent but  good  localities.  The  extra  anemometers  should  be  compared  with  theie  during  24  hours  on  the  first 
Monday  of  each  month,  and  a  full  record  be  kept  of  such  comparisons. 

No.  27.  The  Clouds. — The  amount  of  cloudiness  and  the  direction  of  the  movement  of  all  clouds 
should  be  observed  to  16  compass  points. 

///  addition,  the  kinds  of  clouds  will  be  noted,  and  the  record  kept  in  the  usual  Signal  Service  form. 

No.  28.  Precipitation. — The  commencement  and  duration  of  rain,  snow,  hail,  &c.,  and,  when  possible, 
the  amount  of  j)recipitation  is  to  be  observed.     As  to  the  amount,  however,  this  is  not  obligatory  in  winter. 

There  xoill  be  recorded  regularly,  and  if  practicable  hourly,  the  amount  of  precipitation,  measured  if  possible, 
otherwise  estimated. 

No.  29.  The  Weather. — Storms,  thunder-storms,  hail,  fop,  frost,  dew,  &c.,  and  the  optical  phenomena 
of  the  atmosphere  ought  to  be  recorded. 


I  M 
■I 


2.    OBLIGATORY    OBSERVATIONS    IN   THE    DOMAIN    OF  TERRESTRIAL    MAGNETISM.* 

No.  30.  Absolute  Determinations. — For  declination  and  inclination  it  is  necessary  to  attain  an  accuracy 
of  i.o  minute,  for  horizontal  intensity  of  o.ooi.  The  proper  instruments  are,  for  example,  the  portable 
theodolite  of  Larr.ont  and  the  ordinary  dip-needles. 

No.  31.  The  absolute  observations  must  be  executed  in  close  connection  and  synchronous  with  the 
readings  of  the  variations  instruments,  in  order  to  be  able  to  reduce  the  data  given  by  the  latter  to  an  abso- 
lute normal  value,  and  to  determine  the  zero  point  of  the  scales.  The  determinations  must  be  made  so 
frequently  that  the  changes  in  the  absolute  value  of  the  zero  point  of  the  scales  of  the  variations  apparatus 
can  be  accurately  checked  thereby. 

No.  32.  Obsen'ations  of  Variations. — These  ought  to  include  the  three  elements  and  be  made  by  means 
of  instruments,  with  small  needles,  in  contrast  to  the  apparatus  of  Gauss.  In  order  to  obtain  an  uninter- 
rupted reciprocal  control,  two  complete  sets  of  variations  instruments  are  desirable,  and  recommended,  in 
order  to  avoid  any  interruption  of  the  observations,  by  reason  of  breakage,  derangement,  &c. 

One  set  of  these  instruments  is  now  provided,  but  a  second  set  may  be  sent  in  1882. 

No.  33.  The  horizontal  intensity  in  one,  at  least,  of  these  systems  should  be  observed  with  the  uniiilar 
apparatus.  Because  of  the  magnitude  of  the  perturbations  to  be  observed,  the  scales  of  the  variations 
instruments  must  have  at  least  a  range  of  10  degrees,  and  the  arrangements  are  to  be  so  made  that  the 
greatest  possible  simultaneity  of  the  readings  may  be  achieved. 

*  For  special  instructions  in  magnetic  work,  furnished  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Scrvey,  see 
Section  IV  of  these  instructions. 


liL 


wm 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  HAY  EXPEIJITIOX. 


103 


No.  34.  During  the  entire  period  of  occupancy  of  the  station  the  variations  instruments  will  be  read 
hourly,  It  is  desirable  that  two  readings  be  made;  for  instance,  just  before  and  after  the  full  hour,  with  an 
interval  of  a  few  minutes  between. 

No.  35.  Weyprecht  presented  the  following  separate  note  on  this  point : 

"  Since  it  appears  to  me  that  in  these  regions  of  almost  perpetual  disturbances,  hourly  readings,  made 
at  moments  not  well  defined,  are  insufficient  to  establish  mean  values  accurately  expressing  the  local  pertur- 
bations for  a  given  epoch  (which  data  ought  to  serve  as  a  means  of  comparison  with  other  localities),  and 
in  consideration  of  the  slight  increase  of  labor  which  will  be  caused  by  taking  readings  at  precise  moments, 
I  cannot  agree  with  the  views  of  the  majority  of  the  Conference. 

"  I  state  that  at  least  the  expedition  conducted  by  myself  will  take  readings  hourly  of  all  three  varia- 
tions instrument    at  58'"'"  o"';  59>"i>' o"'';  60™'"  o"";  ei"'"  o"";  62°''n  o*";  Gottingen  mean  time. 

"  VVevprecht." 

Observations  will  he  taken  as  specified  by  Weyprecht. 

No.  36.  As  term  days,  the  1st  and  15th  day  of  each  month  will  be  observed  from  midnight  to  midnight, 
Gottingen  time.  The  readings  will  be  taken  at  intervals  of  5  minutes,  always  on  the  full  minutes,  and  the 
three  elements  are  to  be  read  with  all  po.;sible  rapidity,  one  after  the  other,  in  the  following  order:  1.  Hori- 
zontal intensity ;  ■?.  Decnnation;  3.  Vertical  intensity. 

No.  37.  For  these  term  days,  the  plan  of  magnetic  work  should  comprehend  continuous  readings;  for 
instance,  readings  every  20  seconds,  throughout  one  whole  hour,  even  though  only  one  magnetic  element 
be  observed.  It  is  the  o]iinion  of  the  Conference  that  the  observations  should  begin  so  that  one  of  the 
hours  of  observation  shall  agree  with  the  first  hour  of  the  ist  of  January,  and  that  during  the  entire  period 
of  magnetic  work  the  hours  devoted  to  this  continuous  observation  should  be  changed  on  each  successive 
semi-monthly  term  day. 

No.  38.  The  accuracy  of  the  magnetic  observations  should  be  such  as  to  give  the  declination  to  the 
nearest  minute,  and  the  horizontal  and  vertical  intensity  in  units  of  the  fourth  decimal  place. 

No.  39.  On  the  term  days,  observations  of  auroras  are  also  to  be  made  continuously.  Moreover, 
auroras  are  also  to  be  observed  from  hour  to  hour  throughout  the  period  of  magnetic  observations,  and 
e-pecially  in  reference  to  their  form  and  momentary  position  in  altitude  and  true  azimuth.  The  intensity  of 
the  light  is  to  be  estimated  on  a' scale  of  i,  2,  3,  4. 

No.  40.  Isolated  auroral  phenomena  must  be  made  the  subject  of  thorough  observation,  in  connection 
with  which  the  various  phases  are  to  be  noted  simultaneously  with  readings  of  the  magnetic  variations 
instruments. 

Those  of  the  party  not  engaged  at  the  magnetic  instruments  will  observe  and  record  auroral  phenomena. 

No.  41.  Since  the  greatest  possible  simultaneity  in  the  readings  is  a  point  of  the  highest  importance, 
the  determinations  of  the  location  and  of  the  time  are  to  be  made  with  instruments  having  firm  foundations 
(such  as  the  universal  instruments  or  astronomical  theodolite,  the  vertical  circle,  zenith  telescope,  astronomical 
transit,  &c.);  this,  however,  does  not  exclude  the  use  of  reflecting  instruments  of  a  superior  class.  By  all 
means,  therefore,  must  efforts  be  made  to  determine  the  geographical  position  and  especially  the  longitude 
of  the  station  as  soon  as  possible  after  it  has  been  occupied. 

The  first  approximate  longitude  of  the  station,  as  determined  by  chronometers,  will  be  checked  as  frequently 
(■:."  possible  by  lunar  distances,  occultations^  &'c,,  and  the  value  adopted  in  the  daily  work  of  the  station  will  be 
revised  as  often  as  necessary,  preferably  at  the  end  of  each  quarter.  The  details  of  the  magnetic  observations  ivill 
be  regulated  according  to  the  instrtictions  published  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey. 


3.    ELECTIVE   OBSERVATIONS. 

No.  42.  The  Conference  recommends  the  following  observations  and  investigations  most  earnestly  to 
the  consideration  of  all  those  to  whom  is  intrusted  the  preparation  of  instructions  for  an  expedition  or  who 
t  lemselves  are  assigned  to  such  work. 

No.  43.  Meteorological. — The  diminution  of  temperature  with  altitude,  the  temperature  of  the  earth,  of 
the  snow,  and  of  the  ice  at  the  different  depths  should  be  determined. 

The  forms  of  the  snoiv-crystah  should  be  n  corded  by  earful  drawings;  the  amount  of  hoar-frost  accumulated 
on  some  well-exposed  object  should  be  measured  by  the  use  of  the  scales  furnished  by  the  medical  department. 
Apparatus  is  ordered  to  be  provided  for  the  preseiralion  of  air  and  of  air-dust  for  future  analysis. 


104 


THK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Il  '^: 


No.  44.  Observations  uf  insolation  (or  solar  radiation)  are  to  be  made,  us  well  as  obsi ,  vations  on 
spontaneous  evaporation,  which  latter  can  be  made  during  the  winter  by  weighing  cubes  of  ice,  and  during 
the  summer  by  the  evaporometers. 

A  shallinv,  circular  vessel  of  water,  whether  fluid  or  frozen,  exposed  to  the  open  air  and  sunshine,  should 
have  its  loss  of  weif^ht  determined,  daily  or  oftener,  by  delicate  scales. 

No,  45.  Miignetical. — From  time  to  time  absolute  simultaneous  readings  of  all  three  elements  of  terres- 
trial magnetism  must  be  made  in  order  to  accurately  determine  the  ratio  between  the  simultaneous  changes 
of  the  horizontal  and  those  of  vertical  intensity. 

No.  46.  Galvanic  Earth  Currents. — Observations  are  desired  of  earth  currents  in  intimate  connection  with 
magnetic  observations  and  the  auroral  phenomena. 

Telegraph  lines  of  well  insulated  loire  extending  a  short  distance  N.  and  S.,  and  also  K.  and  W.,  and 
furnished  with  resistance  coils  and  deflection  needles  are  supplied,  and  every  effort  should  be  made  to  carry  out 
these  observations. 

No.  47.  Hydrographic  Investigations. — Observations  of  the  direction  and  strength  of  the  ocean  currents 
and  the  movements  ot  the  ice. 

No.  48.  Deep  sea  soindings  and  observations  upon  the  physical  properties  of  the  sea  water;  for  instance, 
determination  of  the  temperature,  specific  density,  gaseous  contents,  Ike,  and  these  objects  should  be  espe- 
cially kept  in  view  in  the  selection  of  a  vessel  for  the  expedition.  Observations  on  tides,  when  possible, 
should  be  made  with  the  self-registering  apparatus. 

IVith  regard  to  tidal  obsennitions,  the  instructions  published  by  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Sun>ey 
are  to  be  followed.  Glass-stoppered  bottles  are  provided  for  preseiving  specimens  of  sea  water  to  be  brought  back 
for  examination. 

No.  49.  Parallax  of  the  Aurora. — Determination  should  be  made  of  the  altitude  of  the  aurora  by  means 
of  measurements,  made,  for  example,  with  the  meteorograph,  which  must  be  made  by  small  detached  parties  of 
observation,  having  also,  if  possible,  one  party  observing  simultaneously  the  variations  of  magnetic  declination. 

Particular  attention  inill  be  paid  to  determining  the  apparent  position  in  altitude  and  azimuth  of  bright 
meteors  and  shooting  stars  and  of  definite  portions  of  the  aurora  borealis  and  to  drawings  of  the  appurtenances 
presented  by  the  phenomena  as  seen  by  observers  situated  as  far  apart  (say  one-half  to  five  miles)  as  possible,-  in 
these  drawings  the  auroral  phenomena  should  appear  in  their  proper  positions  relatively  to  the  horizon,  meridian, 
fixed  stars,  dfc,  and  to  that  end  each  member  of  the  party,  without  exception,  will  learn  the  names  and  config- 
urations of  the  stars  shown  upon  the  map  of  stars  furnished  you.  A  supply  of  these  maps  is  furnished,  sufficient 
to  allow  of  using  them  as  base  charts  upon  which  to  enter  the  obsen<ed phenomena  in  special  cases.  Attention  is 
called  to  the  points  of  inquiry  suggested  in  the  Annual  Report  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  1876,//.  301-335. 

No.  50.  Observations  of :  1,  atmospheric  electricity;  2,  astronomical  and  terrestrial  refractions;  3,  length 
of  the  simple  second's  pendulum;  4,  observations  on  the  formation  and  growth  of  floating  ice  and  glaciers. 

Attention  is  called  to  the  observations  on  the  formation  of  ice  made  by  Nares  and  other  explorers.  The 
pendulum  observations  will  be  made  in  accordance  with  special  Coast  Survey  instructions. 

No.  51.  Observations  and  collections  in  the  realms  of  zoology,  botany,  geology,  &c. 

The  instructions  given  by  ProJ.  Spencer  F.  Baird  to  the  naturalist  will  be  followed  by  him. 

No.  52.  There  will  also  be  made  special  observations  relating  to  the  whole  Polar  problem,  such  as  the 
flight  of  birds,  presence  of  drift-wood,  and  from  what  direction  it  came,  and  other  matters  as  may  suggest 
themselves  from  time  to  time  and  be  found  practicable. 

III.  Special  Instructions  relative  to  Care  and  Use  of  Special  Thermometers. 

(See  paragraph  19.) 

The  construction  of  the  minimum  standard  designed  for  the  Arctic  stations,  having  been  intrusted  to 
the  Thermometric  Bureau  of  the  Winchester  Observatory  of  Yale  College,  the  astronomer  in  charge  of  that 
institution  furnishes  the  following  special  instructions,  which  will  be  carefully  followed : 

"GENERAL  REMARKS  AND  DIRECTIONS  CONCERNING  THE  SIGNAL  SERVICE  MINIMUM  STANDARDS, 
NOS.  1  TO  12  INCLUSIVE,  CONSTRUCTED  BY  THE  WINCHESTER  OBSERVATORY  OF  YALE  COL- 
LEGi:,  J.  AND  H.  J.  GREEN,  MECHANICIANS. 

"New  Haven,  May  30,  1881. 

"Materials. — The  alcohol,  carbon  disulphide,  and  ethyl  oxide  used,  are  as  pure  as  the  chemical  processes 
will  admit.     For  thermometiical  purposes  they  may  be  assumed  chemically  pure.    There  is  no  more  air 


TlIK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITION. 


105 


above  the  li(iui(l  columns  than  is  accidentally  admitted  in  the  process  of  sealing  the  tubes.  In  this  respect 
these  standards  are  different  from  the  ordinary  spirit  thermometers.  It  is  probalile  that  the  great  purity  of 
the  alcohol  will  render  it  nearly  as  valuable  for  temperatures  below— 80"  F.  as  the  carbon  and  ether  ther- 
mometers. 

"Directions  for  carriage. — It  is  highly  desirable  that  these  thermometers  should  be  kept,  as  nearly  as 
possible,  in  the  same  condition  as  on  leaving  the  observatory.  For  this  purpose  they  have  been  carefully 
packed  in  a  vertical  position,  and  care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  they  are  so  repacked,  with  the  bulb  down. 
Owing  to  the  low  boilingiioints  of  the  ether  and  carbon  disulphide  they  are  not  (probably)  accurate  at 
temperatures  above  -|-6o^  F.,  hut  they  will  remain  clear  and  limpid  at  temperatures  below  zero,  at  which  the 
alcohol  thermometers  may  (but  hardly  probably)  show  viscidity.  It  is  desirable,  therefore,  that  preference  be 
given  to  these  standards  over  any  other  standards  for  extremely  low  temperatures,  and  in  establishing  the 
meteorological  observatory  at  which  the  greatest  cold  is  expected,  special  attention  should  be  given  to  the 
ether  and  carbon  disulphide  thermometers. 

"Suggestions  in  their  use. — Before  mounting  these  thermometers  in  their  stations,  they  should  be  care- 
fully swung  or  jarred  so  that  no  spirit  can  be  detected  (with  a  magnifying  glass)  adhering  to  their  upper  ends. 
They  should  be  inclined  (with  the  bulb  end  nearest  the  ground)  as  far  as  it  is  safe,  and  have  the  index  stand 
in  its  place  by  its  own  friction  against  the  side  of  the  tube,  so  that  the  drainage  may  be  as  perfect  as  possible. • 

"Ail  readings  should  be  recorded  in  millimeters,  and  it  should  be  remembered  that  the  accompanying 
tabular  corrections  (see  the  correction  cards)  are  meant  to  give  only  approximate  temperatures.  A  careful 
comparison  of  all  the  thermometers  from  1  to  1 2  has  been  made  between  o  and  90°  and  Nos.  i,  5,  and  9  have 
been  kejit  by  the  observatory  for  experiments  at  temperatures  below  o"  F. 

"  These  are  probably  the  best  thermometers  ever  sent  into  the  Arctic  regions,  and  special  care  should  be 
taken  to  insure  the  safe  return  of  the  records  and,  though  less  important,  the  instruments." 


'va 


IV.    Spkciai.    Instructions  prei'areh  itv   thk  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey   for 
Observations  in  Terrestrial  Magnetism  at  I'oint  Marrow  and  Lady  Franklin  Bay. 

These  instructions  will  be  applied,  when  suitable,  to  thr  obsen'attons  outered  in  preceding  pages,  but  they 
will  also  furnish  a  guide  to  the  minimum  number  of  observations  to  be  taken  in  case  of  accidents  ociurring  to  pre- 
vent full  compliance  with  the  plan  proposed  by  the  International  Polar  Commission. 

As  soon  as  the  (luarters  of  the  expedition  have  been  fixed  upon,  a  magnetic  house  will  be  erected,  in 
which  the  regular  magnetic  observations,  as  described  below,  will  be  made ;  other  observations  will  be  made 
when  on  boat  or  sledge  trips. 

Instruments. — For  use  at  the  magnetic  observatory,  there  will  be  provided  a  magnetometer,  for  absolute 
and  differential  declination  and  for  horizontal  magnetic  intensity,  to  be  permanently  mounted  on  a  stone 
pier.  In  connection  with  this  instrument  a  meridian  or  azimuth  mark  will  be  established,  a  short  distance 
off  the  observatory  and  visible  from  it  through  an  o|)ening  in  the  wall.  The  astronomical  bearing  of  this 
mark  will  be  carefully  determined  by  means  of  an  alt-azimuth  instrument  and  solar  or  stellar  observations. 

In  the  same  house,  but  on  a  separate  pier,  will  be  mounteil  a  Kew  dip  cir-le,  and,  in  the  case  of  Point 
Barrow,  a  third  instrument,  a  bifilar  magnetometer,  will  also  be  permanently  mounted  on  its  pier.  At  Point 
Barrow  the  magnetometer  (or  unifilar)  and  the  bifilar  instruments  will  be  mounted  in  the  magm-tic  meridian 
and  at  a  distance  of  not  less  than  12  feet  [3.6"'],  and  the  di])  circle  will  be  mounted  e(iuidistant  from  these 
instruments,  forming  an  equilateral  triangle.  At  Lady  Franklin  Hay  the  two  instruments  will  be  mounted 
in  the  plane  of  the  magnetic  prime  vertical,  and  not  less  than  1 2  feet  [3.6'"]  apart.  No  iron  is  to  be  used  in 
the  construction  of  these  buildings,  and  they  should  not  be  nearer  than  50  yards  [45.7'"]  to  any  other  building, 
or  double  that  distance  to  any  large  mass  of  iron.  Special  reading-lamps  (of  copper)  must  be  provided  for 
use  with  the  instruments,  and  they  must  be  tested  to  make  sure  that  they  do  not  affect  the  position  of  the 
magnets.     The  use  of  candles  stuck  into  wooden  blocks  is  preferable  to  using  lamps. 

When  on  boat  or  sledge  journeys  the  party  will  carry  a  chronometer,  a  small  alt-azimuth  instrument, 
with  circles  of  about  3  inches  diameter  (as  constructed  by  Fauth  &  Co.,  of  Washington,  or  by  Casella,  of 
London),  provided  with  a  magnetic  needle  or  compass,  mounted  over  its  vertical  axis,  and  a  dip  circle. 


V'i 


*This  method  conforms  to  that  followed  at  all  signal  stations  with  minimum  thermometers,  except  as  to  degree  of  incKna- 
tion,  wherein  these  suggestions  should  be  most  carefully  followed. 


100 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


1 


Obser-t'atious  at  the  permanent  station. — Hourly  observations  will  be  made,  for  declination  and  diurnal 
variation,  with  the  magnetometer,  on  three  consecutive  days  about  the  middle  of  each  month.  Besides  these 
observations,  extending  over  seventy-two  hours,  there  will  be  made  at  any  convenient  intermediate  time  each 
day  (of  the  three)  one  set  of  detlections,  followed  immediately  by  a  set  of  oscillations  for  the  determination 
of  the  horizontal  intensity.  At  Point  Barrow  the  bifilar  will  be  read  immediately  after  the  unifilar.  There 
will  also  be  made  at  any  intermediate  time  eaeh  day  (of  the  three)  a  set  of  dip  'j'jservations.  In  connection 
with  the  declination  the  mark  will  be  read  once  each  day  ^unless  the  instrument  should  accidentally  be  dis- 
turbed), but  it  suffices  to  determine  the  magnetic  axis  of  the  declination  magnet  on  one  of  the  three  days. 
The  instrumental  constants  of  the  magnetoui  'er  will  be  determined  before  leaving  Washington,  and  the 
observers  will  use  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  magnetic  bUink  forms  for  their  records,  or,  in  case  no 
special  forms  are  provided,  they  will  use  small  octavo  note-books.  They  will  also  -ompute,  as  soon  as  the 
observations  are  completed  each  month,  the  magnetic  mean  declination,  diurnal  range,  and  turning  hours; 
also,  the  liori/.ontal  force  in  absolute  measure  (English  units)  and  the  dip,  tabulating  the  results  for  each  day. 

Kxtra  observations  on  other  than  the  three  days,  about  the  middle  of  each  month,  will  be  made  during 
all  occurrences  of  auroral  displays;  but,  as  they  are  likely  to  be  very  numerous  at  Point  Barrow,  observers 
there  may  confine  tlieir  extra  observations  to  the  more  conspicuous  displays  only.  On  these  occasions  the 
declinometer  (and  the  bifilar  at  Point  Barrow)  will  be  read,  say,  every  ten  minutes,  or  at  shorter  or  longer 
intervals,  as  the  state  of  the  neeille  '"n  v  appear  to  demand,  the  object  being  to  establish  a  connection  between 
the  appearances  of  the  aurora  and  the  motion  of  the  magnetic  needle. 

When  landing  on  a  boat  journey  or  during  a  sledge  journey,  at  suitable  stations  (not  less  than  ten  or 
fifteen  niiles  apart),  the  time,  latitude,  and  azimuth  will  be  determined  by  the  alt-azimuth  instrument,  and 
the  declination  by  the  same  instrument  (the  hour  and  minute  of  the  observation  is  to  be  noted,  in  order  that 
the  diurnal  variation  may  be  allowed  fur).  The  dip  will  also  be  observed,  and,  in  case  time  is  pressing, 
reversal  of  circle,  reversal  of  face  of  needle,  and  reversal  of  polarity  may  be  dispensed  with,  but  the  needed 
correction  to  the  result,  from  tht  single  position  of  the.instrument,  must  be  ascertained  at  the  permanent 
station.  Observations  of  deflections  (vith  magnetic  needle  and  with  weights)  will  be  made  with  the  dip 
circle,  as  arrangeil  for  relative  and  absolute  total  force,  the  data  for  the  latter  to  be  supplied  at  the  perma- 
ne'it  station. 

It  is  higiily  desirable,  especially  in  the  case  nf  the  Lady  Tranklin  Bay  party,  that  all  stations  within 
reach  and  formerly  occupied  by  other  parties  for  magnetic  purposes  be  revisited,  in  order  to  fi  .nish  material 
from  which  to  deduce  the  secular  changj  during  the  interval;  l)esi('.os,  ali  opportunities  shoild  be  taken 
when  landing,  on  the  way  up,  to  secure  observations  for  declination,  dip,  and  intensity,  the  latter  best  by 
oscillations  of  the  intensity  magnet.  The  winter  quarters  of  the  late  English  expedition  should  be  connected 
magi.etically  with  the  present  quarters. 

.-///  magnetic  obsenmtions  wiU  be  made  on  CiHtingen  time,  as  prcnndeit  for  by  the  Hamburg  conference. 

All  magnetic  records  will  be  kept  strictly  in  conformity  with  Notes  on  Measurements  of  Terrestrial  Mag- 
netism, Ignited  States  Coast  Survey,  Washington,  1877,  and  other  records  in  connection  therewith  should 
be  ecpially  clear  and  complete.,  and  all  computations  should  be  made  by  the  observer  in  separate  books. 
Duplicates  of  all  records  will  be  m..de,  compared  with  the  original,  and  the  latter  returned,  annually,  if  prac- 
ticable, to  the  C'hief  Signal  Officer,  for  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  Washirgton, 
I).  C.  The  observers  should  also  provitle  themselves  ivith  copies  of  the  Admiralty  Manual  of  Scientific 
Enepiiry,  the  Arctic  Manual  and  Instructions,  1 875,  and  .\urora;,  their  characters  and  spectra,  by  J.  R.  Capron, 
i88o;  also  with  Terrestrial  and  Cosmical  Magnetism,  by  E.  Walker,  k<66,  and  any  other  work  they  may 
re(iuire  for  their  Information 


V.  AnniTioNAL  Special  In.stritctions. 


The  rules  prescribed  in  Instructions  for  the  Expedition  toward  tiie  Nortii  Pole,  as  published  (in  i)am- 
l)hlet)  by  authority  of  the  Hon.  (ieorge  M.  Robeson,  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  and  those  contained  in  Sug- 
gestions Relative  to  Objects  of  Scientific  Investigation  in  Russian  America,  both  of  which  are  furnisheil, 
Will  be  followed  as  closely  as  circumstances  permit. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION.  107 

VL  Memorandum  of  Outfit. 

LIST  OF  APPARATUS  TO    BE    FURNISHED    TO    I-OINT    BARROW  ANP,  WITH    SOMK  EXCEPTIONS    AND   ADP'TIONS,  TO  LADY 

FRANKLIN   BAY. 

Geographical  and  astronomical  apparatus. — One  surveyor's  compass  and  tripod ;  one  loo-feet  [so.s""]  chain  or  steel  t>.pe ; 
one  prismatic  compass;  one  set  of  pins;  one  meridian  transit,  alraut  2  or  3  inches  [51  to  76'""']  aperture;  three 
se>itants;  three  artificial  horirans;  eight  marine  chronometers — mean  time;  one  marine  chronometer — sidereal;  two 
pocket  chronometers  mean  time.  (If  practicable  these  will  be  rated  at  various  temperatures  at  the  Ilorological 
Bureau  of  the  Observatory  of  Yale  College.) 

Magnetic  apparatus. — One  complete  magnetometer — Fauth  &  Co. — unifilar  declinometer— catalogue  No.  70,  price  $400, 
extra  light  needles  and  mirror  for  auroral  disturbantos;  one  Kew  dip  circle,  larger  si/.e. 

Pendulum  apparatus. — Pendulum  apparatus  will  be  carried  and  used  by  a  special  ten-porary  party  from  the  United 
States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey.  , 

Deep-sea  sounding. — (Will  be  left  to  the  United  States  Coast  Survey.) 

Meteorological  apparatus.-  -One  instrument  shelter  of  open  wooden  louver  work,  made  in  sections,  (see  plan) ;  one  inner 
thermometer  shelter  of  open  giilvaiii/ed  iron  louver  work,  made  in  sections  (see  plan) ;  twelve  mercurial  thermoni 
eters,  ordinary  stem  divided ;  twelve  spirit  thermometers,  onlinary  stem  divided ;  six  mercurial  thermomclers,  nuix 
imum  stem  divided ;  six  spirit  thermomclers,  minimum  stem  divided ;  six  special  minimum  thermometers,  from 
Yale  College;  four  p.sychrimieters,  mercurial,  wet  bulb;  one  dew-jxiint  apparatus,  Regnault's  ;  six  water  thernuini- 
eters  and  three  cases.  Signal  .Service  pattern,  for  surface  temperatures;  two  mercurial  marine  barometers;  four 
mercurial  cistern  barometers  (Green,  Signal  Service  pattern),  Lirge  bore,  rer\ding  to  thousandths;  three  aneroiil 
barometers  (Casella's  make) ;  two  hair  hygrometers;  two  self-registers,  one  double  and  one  single,  for  anemometers 
and  anemoscopes  (Signal  Service  jiattern.  Gibbon  ur  Eccard) ;  six  extra  attach''  merniometers  for  barometers  ;  six 
extra  barometer  tubes  for  barometers;  fc-r  rain-gauges,  two  copper  and  two  galvanized  iron;  six  divided  sticks 
for  measuring  rain  and  snow  ;  ten  pounds  pure  mercury ;  four  iinemometers  (Robinson's) ;  four  arms  and  eups  and 
,  four  spindles,  for  Robinson's  anemometer,  for  repairs;  two  vanes,  small ;  one  large  vane,  complete ;  one  Kccanl 

contact  (interior);  10  battery  cells  (Kagle)  and  supplies  for  same  for  three  years;  two  thousand  y.ards  [i.SsS'"] 
insulated  wire ;  four  telephones  and  two  nil  bells ;  one  galvanometer  for  observations  of  ground  currents ;  one  hun- 
dred feet  [30.5"']  cable,  for  the  double  self-register ;  four  liox  soifnders. 

Signal  apparatus, — Two  Grugan's  heliographs  ;  four  sets  signal  kits  complete  ;  six  signal    .>ile  cards. 

Blank  botis  and  forms. — Twelve  diaries  for  1881.  1882,  and  1883,  respectively,  one  to  be  kept  by  each  man;  two 
hundred  and  fifty  books  for  original  record  <>.'  .iieteorological  oliservations  ;  lifty  Manl^  books  for  daily  journal,  for 
miscellaneous  observations;  fifty  volumes  Kor.n  4,  for  copy  of  original  record;  three  hundred  star  cliarts,  for 
auroras,  &c. ;  one  hundred  forms  for  comparison  of  barometers ;  eight  hundred  forms  for  anemometer  register. 

Books. — Instructions  to  Observers,  .Signal  Service,  U.  S.  .-V. ;  Annual  Reports  of  tlie  <  iiicf  Signal  Officer,  from  1873  to 
1880.  inclusive;  Looniis's  Treatise  on  Meteorology;  Huchan's  Handy  Hook  of  Meteorology;  Smithsonian  Miscel 
laneous  Collections,  Vol.  I.;  Guyot's  Meteorological  and  Physical  Tallies;  Loomis's  Practical  Astronomy;  Church's 
Trigonometry;  Chauvenet's  Practical  Astronomy ;  Bowditch's  Navigator;  Bowditch's  U-seful  Tables;  l.ee's  t'ol- 
lection  of  Tables  and  Formula;  American  Nautical  Alnian.ic  for  iSSi,  1SS2,  and  1883;  Admiralty  Manual  of 
Scientific  Incpiiry,  4th  ed.;  Admiralty  Manual  and  Instructions  for  Arctic  l!xpedition,  1875;  Nares's,  &c..  Reports 
of  English  Arctic  Kxpedition;  Nares's  Narrative  of  Voyage  to  Polar  Sea,  London,  1S78;  ('harts,  I'liileil  Slates 
Hydrographic  Office,  No.  68,  and  British  Admiralty,  Nos.  593,  2i'>4,  243^.  liremiker's  edition  of  \  ega's  l.oga- 
rithmic  Tables  ;  Barlow's  Tables;  Coast  Survey  Papers  uu  Time,  Latitude,  Longitude,  Magnetics,  and  Tidal 
Observations;  Everett's  Translation  of  Deschanel;  Sigsbee  on  Deep  Sea  Sounding,  &c.  (U.  S.  Coast  Survey 
Rejiort);  Markham's  Collection  of  Papers  Relating  to  Arctic  Geography,  l.omlon,  1877;  Schotl's  Reduction  of 
Observations  of  Hayes  aiul  Sontag,  of  Dr.  Kane,  and  of  McClintock;  Manual  of  Military  lelcgraphy ;  Myer's 
Manual  of  Signals;  J.  R.  Capron,  Auronv:  their  characters  and  spectra;  Pope's  Modem  I'laelice  of  the  Electric 
Telegraph;  Instructions  for  the  Expetlition  toward  the  North  Pole,  from  lion.  George  M.  Robeson,  Secretary  of 
the  Navy ;  stationery,  as  ordinarily  supplied ;  drawing  paper  and  instruments. 

All  officers  and  observers  of  the  expetlition  are  chargetl  to  at  once  familiarize  themselves  in  detail  with 
these  instructions,  and  in  the  practice  of  the  duties  they  prescribe,  together  with  a  tl.i  rough  knowledge  of 
the  instruments  and  their  use;  and  commanding  officers  are  specially  charged  to  see  tli;i*  these  retiuirements 
are  observed. 

Official  memorandum  to  accompany  instructions  No.  72. 

W.  B.  Hazkn, 
Brig,  and  Bvt.  Maj.  Gen..,  Chief  Signal  Officer,  U,  S.  A. 


if 


;  !l 


.:!i 


■  i 


■M 


108 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION, 


Appendix  No.  4. — Lisi  of  commissary  subsistence  stores  taken  with  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay 

Expedition. 


Packages. 


Articles  .ind  quantities. 


Remarks. 


42  barrels  _ . 

6  boxes  

23  barrels  .  . 
36  boxes  

5  Iroxes  .. . 
147  barrels  . . 


42  barrels  pork 

3, 000  pounds  bacon 

23  barrels  salt  beef 

120  2-poun(l  cans  corned  beef 
1 20  2-pound  cans  roast  beef  _  _ . 
17,899  pounds  hard  bread 


7  boxes  

5  barrels  

5  barrels 

24  boxes    

2  bairclf 

2  l)arrels 

8  boxes  

10  boxes  

19  boxes  

2  packages  

I  package  

25  half-barrels  . 

6  barrels 

17  boxes  

4  boxes  

7  sacks  

3  boxes 

9  boxes    

1  box 

19  boxes  

5  boxes  

2  Ixjxes 

4  Ikjxcs   

3  half-barrels  . 
42  boxes  ._  

2  packages  _  _ . 

8  l)0Xci 

I  box 


4  boxes 
6  boxes 


30  casks 


4  barrels  . . 

10  boxes  

2  boxes  

6  boxes  

13  boxes  

2  boxes  

5  packages 
2  boxes  

40  boxes 

11  boxes  

13  boxes  

1  box 

40  boxes  

4  boxes  

6  boxes  

5  boxes 

2  boyjs 

4  bo>:'; 

8  boxes  

10  kegs 

as  kegs  

2  boxes  


980  pounds  commeal  (tinsl 

I,  264  pounds  white  beans 

I,  395  ]X>unds  black  beans 

576  3-pound  cans  baked  beans 

420  pounds  split  peas 

S95  pounds  rice 

I,  120  pounds  hominy  (lo-pound  cans) 

522  pounds  cheese 

1,900  pounds  Rio  coftee,  roasted  and  ground 

200  pounds  green  gunpowder  tea ._. 

48  pounds  l)lack  Oolong  tea 

56  pounds  English  breakfast  tea 

3,060  pounds  suj.'!",  -A" 

269  gallons  vi'.iigar  _.. 

510  pounds  ..andles 

240  pounds  soap 

I,  568  [Kiunds  .salt 

75  pounds  pepper,  black 

108  pounds  ye.ist-powder 

5  pounds  allspice 

456  3-poiind  cans  apples 

60  i-^allon  cans  n.pples 

100  pourJs  evaporated  apples 

96  cans  asparagus 

242  pounds  breakfast  bacon 

3, 024  pounds  Top  Ocan  butter 

204  pounds  McCobb's  chocolate 

200  pounds  liaker's  chocolate 

5  iKninds  cinnamon 

24  2-pound  c^ns  clams 

5  potinds  noves  

19?  pounds  Java  coffee,  roasted  and  ground 

144  cans  green  corn 

24  4-ounce  Irottles  lemon  extract 

24  4-ounce  bottles  vanilla  extract 

6, 450  pounds  family  flour  ,. 

50  packet".  Swinl)urn's  gelatine 

50  packets  Nelson's  gelatine. 

10  pounds  ginger    

729  pounds  sugar-cured  ham 

100  pounds  ho|)S 

48  2-pound  cans  blackberry  jam 

144  cans  currant  jelly '. 

780  pounds  lard  (5 -pound  tins) 

48  cans  lobster  (2-pound  cans) 

500  pounds  macaroni    

288  boxes  safety  matches 

1,920  cans  milk _. 

198  pounds  mustard 

5  pounds  nutnjcgs 

I,  720  pounds  o.itmeal  (tins) 

12  bottles  olive  oil  (I.ucca) 

960  cans  onions  (2'/^ll).  cans) 

96  cans  oysters  (2-lb.  cans) 

144  cans  pe.iclies  (3-lb.  cans) 

250  pounds  evaporated  peaches 

48  cans  pears  (2-lb.  cans)  ..    

96  cans  green  peas,  American 

10  pounds  Chili  Colorado  pepper 

96  bottles  chow-chow  pickles  (([t.  bottles) 

100  gallons  onion  pickles  ... .. 

250  gallons  cucumber  pickles. 

48  cans  pine-apples  (2-lb.  cans) 


Fair. 

Excellent. 

Poor ;  very  lean. 

Ciood. 

Excellent ;  much  larger  quantity  needed. 

Excellent;  less  proportion  required,  as  fresh  bread  is 

preferable. 
Very  good. 

/  Very  good ;  should  have  been  two-thinls  white  and 
\       one-third  black. 

Very  good  ;  excellent  for  short  field  journeys. 
Excellent ;  much  larger  quantity  needed. 
Very  good. 
Excellent. 
Very  good. 
Excellent. 

Excellent;  but  cheaper  grades.liHed  better. 
Excellent. 
Good. 
Very  good. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Good. 

Do. 
Excellent. 

Very  good,        "    .  ,  » 

Excellent. 

Do. 

Do. 
Kxcellent;  other  vegetables  more  valuable. 
Excellent. 

Do. 
Fair;  powdered,  cake  better. 
Excellent. 

Excellent;  too  much  by  half. 
Excellent ;  very  much  larger  quantity  needed. 
Excellent;  too  much  by  half. 
Excellent. 
Excellent ;  larger  supply  needed. 

Do.  Do. 

Do.  Do. 

Do.  Do. 

Excellent. 

Do. 

Do. 
Excellent  at  first  but  deteriorated. 
Excellent;  too  many  by  three-fourths. 
Excellent;  larger  supply  needed. 
Fair;  better  replace  by  other  .sweets. 
Excellent. 

Do. 

Do. 
Not  suitt<l  f(u'  Arctic  service. 
Excellent. 
Excellent ;  too  much  by  three-fourths. 

1  )o.        . 

Do. 
Fair. 

Excellent. 

Fair;  replace  by  clams  or  other  shellfish. 
Excell.-nt;  much  larger  supply  needed. 

Di. 

Dj 

Lu. 

Do. 

Do.  ■ 

Excellent ;  very  much  superior  to  cucumber. 
Fair ;  should  have  been  onion  or  chow-chow. 
Excellent. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION.  109 

List  of  commissary  subsistence  stores  taken  with  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition — Continued. 


Packages. 


I   1X)X 

I  box 

I  box 

\  IX)X 

52  l)Oxes 

6  boxes . 

5  boxes 

I  package  . 

I  package  

4  packages  . . . 

I   )arrel 

42  boxes           .. 

I  l>ox . 

I  box 

1  box ......   . 

2  boxes  

10  taxes 

II  l)oxes 

10  iMJxes 

2  boxes 

10  half-barrels.. 

3  half-barrels ..  _ 

2  box-is  .. 

I  box 

25  boxes  

12  boxes  

I  Ikjx 

40  boxes  

I  1k)x 

5  boxes  

6  l)oxes 

I  l)OX 

I  box 

2  boxes 

21  Iwxes 

2  boxes  

3  boxes 

8  boxes  

6  half-barrels.. 

8  boxes  

i81iJf-barrels.. 

42  boxes  

2  boxes  

I  l)OX 

5  boxes  

Articles  and  quantities. 


48  pipesbriarwood,  No.  2  

48  pipes  briarwood,  No  3 

120  pipe-sterrs,  cherry 

120  pipe-stems,  weichsel 

I,  248  cans  potatoes  (2j^-lb.  cans) 


144  cans  preserved  damsons 

244  pounds  prunes 

15  ^ -boxes  raisins,  I,.  L 

50^  pounds  raisins,  Sultana 

96  cans  s.ilmon  (2-lb.  cans)  ... 

95  bags  table  salt 

1,008  cans  sauce,  cranberry 

12  lx)ttles  Tobin's  Chili  sauce 

12  bottles  Worcestershire  sauce 

72  cakes  Castile  toilet  soap 

96  cakes  glycerine  toilet  soap 

24  cakes  lettuce  toilet  soap .. . 

48  cakes  No.  go  toilet  soap 

48  cakes  CJuimauve  toilet  soap 

240  cans  oxtail  soup 

264  cans  mock  turtle  soup 

240  packets  vegetable  soup 

40  pounds  corn-starch 

1,063  pounds  granulated  sugar 

96  gallons  sirup 

12  gallons  maple  sirup 

25  pounds  tapioca 

1,000  pounds  plug  tobacco 


Remarks. 


300  pounds  Durham  tobacco 

25  pounds  Lone  Jack  tobacco 

960  cans  tomatoes  (3-lb.  cans) 

140  pounds  cracked  wheat 

120  cans  Lima  beans  (2-lb.  cans) 

144  2-lb.  cans  beef  extract 

24  4-0Z.  bottles  celery  extract 

24  2-lb.  cans  mutton  extract 

48  2-lb.  cans  crab  meat 

504  cans  condensed  eggs 

280  pounds  farina  (tins) 

180  pounds  figs .. 

192  cans  gooseberries  (2-lb.  cans)  . .. 
192^  gallons  New  Orleans  molasses. 

96  jars  preserved  peaches 

12  bottles  Tobasco  pepper 

18  ^-bbls.  pickles,  sauerkraut 

1,008  cans  rhubarb 

48  3-lb.  cans  nuinces 

48  cans  shrimps 

200  pounds  salt-water  soap 


Excellent. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Excellent ;  for  field  service  ".n  additional  supply  of  evap- 

t^rated  needed, 
.excellent. 
Lvcellent;  much  larger  supply  needed 

Do. 
Excellent. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Excellent;  more  needed. 

Do. 
Poor. 
Excellent. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Ex  "ellent ;  much  more  needed. 
Exc.-llent. 
Excellent;  more  needed. 

Do. 

Do. 
Excellent;    could  well   have  replaced    100  pounds  by 

Durham  and  other  varieties. 
Excellent. 

Do. 
Excellent ;  much  more  needed. 
Poor. 
Good. 

Poor;  standard  quality  needed. 
Good. 

Poor ;  standard  <(uali!y  needed. 
Excellent ;  more  needed. 
Fair ;  many  cans  poor,  but  others  excellent. 
Good;  finer  quality  preferred. 
Good. 

Do. 
Excellent ;  men  prefer  sirup. 
Excellent ;  prefer  canned,  with  light  sirup. 
Excellent. 

Good  at  first;  soon  spoiled. 

Excellent ;  should  prefer  three-fourths  other  fruits. 
Excellent. 

Excellent ;  much  more  needed. 
Excellent. 


Appendix  No.  5. — Records  left  at  and  taken  from  Southeast  Cary  Island^  August^  18S1. 

International  Polar  Expedition  to  Lady  Frank. in  Bay,  fitted  ouf  by  the  War  Department  under  tiie  super. 

vision  of  General  W.  U,  Hazen,  Chief  Signal  Officer,  United  States  Army,  and  commanded  by 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely,  Fifth  Cavalry,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant. 

Left,  in  the  steamship  Frotcus,  island  off  Upernivik,  7  p.  rn.,  July  29th,  1881;  and  at  7  a  m.  July  31st, 

stopped  by  fog  about  6  miles  south  of  land  supposed  to  be  Cape  York.     Middle  passage  taken  and  found 

to  be  entirely  unobstructed  by  ice.     Landed  at  southeast  island  of  Cary  Group  at  5.45  p.  m.,  Aug.  i.     British 

provision  depot  and  boat  of  1875  found  ii:  good  condition.     Old  records  taken  and  new  records  left  at 

depot  and  cairn.    All  well.    This  notice  deposited  August  ist,  i88r. 

[NoTK. — The  English  records  referred  to  are  not  printed,  having  been  returned,  through  the  War  Department,  to  the  English 
Admiralty.] 


Sf 


I" 


no 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Appendix  No.  6. — Lieutenant  Kislingbury' s  report  of  trip  to  Life  Boat  Cove. 

On  Steamer  Proteus,  off  Littleton  Island,  A..gust  2,  i88i. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  respectfully  to  report,  as  directed,  that  in  obedience  to  your  verbal  directions  of 
this  date,  accompanied  by  Dr,  Pavy,  Mr.  Clay,  Photographer  Rice,  and  the  two  Eskimo,  I  proceeded  in 
the  whaleboat  to  Life  Boat  Cove  and  to  place  in  that  vicinity  occupied  by  the  crew  of  the  Polaris  after  the 
wreck  of  the  same.  The  place  has  been  visited  by  some  persons,  probably  Eskimo,  since  Captain  Nares  was 
there,  as  nearly  everything  mentioned  by  him  as  being  there  at  the  time  has  been  taken  away. 

Also  visited  tiic  cairn  built  by  the  people  of  the  /l)/am,  and,  with  the  exception  of  some  scattered  frag- 
ments of  books,  nothing  was  found.  The  stones  of  which  the  cairn  was  built  were  scattered.  Some  distance 
from  the  cairn,  behind  some  rocks,  I  found  the  different  parts  of  a  transit  instrument  with  the  frame-work 
complete  but  damaged.  The  glasses  and  micrometer  had  been  taken  and,  evidently  with  care,  unscrewed. 
I  brought  everything  pertaining  to  the  transit  on  board,  together  with  many  other  articles,  thinking  you 
might  desire  them  as  relics.  Have  turned  them  over  to  Dr.  Pavy,  who  will  keep  them  together  and  can  give 
list  if  required. 

The  boxes,  carpenter's  tools,  files,  needles,  and  skin  boats,  mentioned  by  Captain  Nares,  had  all  been 
taken  away.  Not  a  piece  of  wood  of  which  the  house  had  been  built  was  left.  A  broken  cooking-stove, 
several  pieces  of  rusty  stove-pipe,  ship-pulleys,  broken  ^jarts  of  instruments,  broken  compass-frame,  broken 
tools,  broken  part  of  steam-engine,  hose-pipe,  broken  hinges,  several  iron  hooks  with  broken  pulleys  attached; 
in  fact,  all  sorts  of  odds  and  ends  were  strewn  about  the  place  where  the  house  had  been  built.  But  every- 
thing showed  evidence  of  having  been  overhauled.  No  Eskimo  were  seen,  and  no  signs  of  any  having 
recently  been  in  the  neighborhood  were  noticed. 

Mr.  Rice  took  negatives  of  the  place  and  of  Life  Boat  Cove. 

T  shot  one  snow-gull,  four  eider-duck,  and  one  small  auk.  Saw  eleven  walrus  in  the  vicinity  of  Life 
Boat  Cove,  sporting  in  the  water,  and  had  a  somewhat  exciting  time  with  one,  a  female.  Mr.  Clay  and 
myself  put  two  shots  into  her,  one  in  the  head  and  one  through  the  neck,  and  hit  her  three  times  afterwards, 
when  she  started  towards  the  boat  with  her  head  raised,  mouth  open,  and  a  determined,  wicked  look.  We 
waited  until  she  was  within  about  20  feet  [6'"]  of  us,  when  we  put  two  shots  into  her  head.  She  went  down 
immediately,  which  was  the  last  seen  of  her.  A  young  one  that  climbed  over  her  after  the  poor  creature  was 
wounded,  was  shot  by  Mr.  Clay,  and  sank  at  once.  I  am  convinced  from  this  experience  that  it  will  be 
almost  impossible  to  get  a  walrus  after  killing  it  in  the  water,  because  they  sink  soon  as  dead.  With  a  har- 
poon, however,  lodged  in  the  walrus  after  he  is  wounded,  the  trouble  of  dispatching  and  keeping  him  from 
sinking  would  be  lessened.  An  ax  or  strong  hatchet  would  also  be  a  useful  thing  to  have  at  hand.  The 
best  manner  of  killing  and  securing  them  I  think  would  be  to  catch  them  on  the  land  or  ice,  some  distance 
from  the  water,  and  creej)  ui)  close  enough  to  send  a  ball  with  force  into  his  head,  and  from  an  examination 
of  the  skull  I  believe  the  only  i)lace  a  ball  could  etfect  an  entrance  would  be  in  the  eye. 

Coming  back  we  were  able  to  use  our  sail,  but  in  going  we  had  hard  rowing  as  the  wind  was  brisk  and 
dead  against  us. 

T  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Fred.  F.  Kislingbury, 
Second  Lieutenant,  Eleventh  Infantry,  A.  S.  O. 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition,  « 


Appendix  No.  7. — Records  taken  from  and  left  at  Wasliington  Irving  Island,  August,  188  r. 

International  Polar  Expedition  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  fitted  out  by  the  War  Department,  under  the  super- 
vision of  General  W.  B.  Hazen,  Chief  Signal  Officer,  United  States  Army,  and  commanded  by 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  (Ireely,  ('"ifth  Cavalry,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant. 
Left,  in  steamship  ProteuH,  island  off  Upernivik  7  ]).  m.,  July  29,  1881,  and  at  7  a.  m.  July  31,  stopped 
by  fog  about  6  miles  south  of  land  sujjposed  to  be  Cape  York.     Middle  passage  taken  and  found  to  be 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Ill 


entirely  unobstructed  by  ice.  Landed  at  southeast  island  of  Gary  Group  at  5.45  p.  m.,  August  i.  British 
provision  depot  and  boat  of  1875  found  in  good  condition.  Old  records  taken  and  new  records  left  at  depot 
and  cairn.  Reached  Littleton  Island  1 1.30  a.  m.,  August  2d.  Found  and  brought  on  board  mail  for  H.  M. 
S.  ..^.V  and  Discovery,  left  by  Sir  Allen  Young.  Left  Littleton  Island  10.45  p.m.,  August  2d,  and  rer.ched 
Cape  Huwkes  8.45  a.  m.,  August  3,  1881,  running  at  full  speed  from  Littleton  Island  and  encountering  no 
pack  or,  indeed,  other  ice  of  slightest  importance. 

[NoiE. — The  English  records  referred  to  are  not  printed,  having  been  returned,  through  the  War  Department,  to  the  English 
Admiralty.] 


■I 


Appendix  No.  8. — Records  obtained  at  Discovery  Harbor^  August  r,  188 r. 

The  original  records  were  forwarded  to  the  British  Government,  through  the  War  and  State  Depart- 
ments, December  5,  i88i. 
No  copies  were  retained. 


Appendix  No.  g. — Lieutenant  Lockivood''  s  report  on  Water-course  Bay,  August,  1881. 

FoR-^  Conger,  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  Grinnell  Land,  August  15,  1881. 

Sir:  Pursuant  to  your  verbal  instructions  I  have  the  honor  to  rejjort,  that  on  the  nth  instant  I  pro- 
ceeded ashore  from  the  steamship  Proteus,  and  after  a  walk  of  some  hours  over  the  intervening  high  land 
separating  our  present  position.  Discovery  Harbor,  from  Cape  Murchison,  found  with  some  difficulty  the 
coal  seam  referred  to  in  the  report  of  the  British  expedition  of  iSys-'yG. 

The  coal  is  soft  and  Hes:  apparently  in  two  deposits,  which  are  probably  connected  and  form  one  seam. 
The  largest  is  exposed  for  about  a  hundred  yards  fgi'"]  along  the  bed  of  the  stream,  its  front  vertical  and  about 
20  or  25  feet  [6  or  7™]  high  by  perhaps  4  [i""]  deep,  covered  on  top  by  a  mass  of  slate.  The  second  seam  is 
much  smaller  and  probably  100  yards  [gi""]  farther  down-stream;  the  coal  lies  in  thin  strata,  some  of  which  I 
readily  pulled  down  by  hand.  The  banks  of  the  stream  at  this  point,  and  for  a  mile  or  more  above,  are  (luite  or 
so  nearly  vertical  as  to  be  impassable ;  the  stream  also  runs  in  places  through  natural  tunnels  of  snow. 
Below  and  near  the  straits,  which  are  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  distant,  the  banks  become  much  lower, 
offering  places  where  a  sledge  or  other  vehicle  could  attain  the  river  bed  though  with  more  or  less  difficulty. 
The  bed  of  the  stream  itself  has  a  very  slight  grade  to  the  sea,  and  when  frozen  and  covered  with  snow,  but 
only  then,  furnishes  an  excellent  outlet  for  the  coal. 

Water-course  Bay  is  a  mere  indentation  of  the  coast  and  is  wholly  exposed  to  all  winds  from  the  north- 
east to  the  south.  The  shore  is  very  shallow,  where  observed,  small  floe  pieces  being  aground  50  yards  [45.7'"] 
from  the  beach.  At  the  time  I  visited  the  place  the  straits  were  filled  with  ice  moving  rapidly  north  before 
a  southwest  wind;  but  there  was  quite  an  extent  of  open  water  between  the  two  capes  forming  "the  bay" 
and  extending  out  a  hundred  yards  [91'°]  or  more  from  shore.  The  coast  slopes  gradually  down  to  the  bay  in 
a  terrace-like  formation  from  the  divide  a  mile  to  the  rear;  all  points  are  exposed  to  the  same  winds  as  the 
bay.  This  slope  offers  a  very  good  route  for  wagon  or  sledge;  crossing  the  intervening  ridge  the  short 
descent  to  the  creek  becomes  somewhat  steep,  but  thence  to  our  present  location  the  grade  is  exceedingly 
slight,  being  up  one  wide  level  valley  and  down  another;  in  short,  the  route  across  is  quite  practicable  and 
very  good  indeed- 
Very  respectfully,  your  ot  edi  int  servant, 

J.  B.  LOCKWOOD, 

Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty -third  Infantry^  A.  S.  O. 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 


Fifth  Cavalry,  A,  S,  0.  and  Assistant,  Commanding  Expedition. 

• 

1 

(1 


Uk 


m 
if 

1 


If' 


112 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Appendix  No.  io.  — Lieutenant  Kislingbury  s  request  to  be  relieved^  with  Lieutenant  Greeiys 

statement. 

Fort  Conger,  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  August  26,  1881. 

Sir  :  In  conversation  at  breakfast  this  morning  you  said,  in  effect,  that  if  I  could  not  agree  to  certain 
ideas  of  yours  I  "  had  better  go."  This  I  take  that  my  services  are  no  longer  desirable  to  you  as  a  member 
of  this  expedition. 

After  receiving  such  a  suggestion  or  invitation  to  go,  from  my  commanding  officer,  because,  possibly,  I 
expressed  myself  too  freely,  the  only  thing  I  feel  left  for  me  to  do  is  to  ask  to  be  relieved  from  duty  as  a 
member  of  the  expedition  and  ordered  to  report  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Army.  On  other  occasions 
you  have  seen  fit  to  find  fault  with  me  over  matters  in  which  I  may  have  been  lacking,  or  which  might  have 
been  annoying  to  you  but  of  no  practical  importance,  and  from  your  final  request  of  this  m<  -">  g,  already 
•stated,  it  will  doubtless  be  better  that  I  go. 

You  and  I  disagreed  this  morning  because  I  differed  from  you  in  the  matter  of  early  breakfasting,  I 
objected  to  being  compelled  or  required  to  breakfast  so  early.  You  would  have  me  breakfast  when  the  men 
do,  at  7  a.  m.  I  would  nu*  agree  that  the  officers  should  be  required  to  rise  at  the  same  time  and  breakfast 
at  the  same  time  with  the  men.  You  then  said  tb:it  I  "  had  better  go  "  unless  I  saw  fit  to  do  as  you  required 
in  such  matters.  If  I  had  been  accused  of  anything  of  a  serious  nature,  warranting  you  in  telling  me  this 
or  anything  tending  to  a  necessity  for  a  severance  of  my  connection  with  the  expedition,  I  would  act  differ- 
ently in  this  matter — would,  doubtless,  resist  being  relieved ;  but  if  such  a  trivial  matter  as  this  morning 
causes  you  to  express  such  a  wish  as  you  did — so  readily — I  cannot  but  feel  that  the  comfort,  peace,  and 
harmony,  and  even  success,  of  the  expedition  may  be  jeopardized  if  I  remain.  It  is  possible  that  I  am 
at  fault,  but,  if  so,  it  can  be  only  because  I  have  been  too  candid. 

The  sacrifices  I  make  in  parting  from  the  expedition  will  be  in  every  way  of  a  serious  nature.  Pecu- 
niarily, I  place  myself  in  a  very  embarrassing  position.  The  year's  pay  and  allowances,  paid  me  in  advance 
by  the  Government,  has  been  nearly  all  absorbed  in  the  liquidation  of  my  liabilities,  which  would  have  been 
settled  from  month  to  month  had  I  not  come  on  this  expedition,  but  which  were  paid  by  me  before  I  left, 
knowing,  of  course,  that  there  would  be  no  opportunity  to  negotiate  money  matters  during  my  absence. 

But  the  many  personal  sacrifices  I  make  are  too  numerous  to  particularize.  I  have  also  been  put  to 
no  inconsiderate  expense  in  the  matter  of  personal  outfit  for  clothing  suitable  for  this  climate,  and  inci- 
dentals occasioned  by  changing  station  such  a  distance,  which  were  not  by  any  means  covered  by  allow- 
ances received  from  the  Government.  I  shall  therefore  expect  the  Government  to  be  at  least  lenient 
to  me,  or  thoughtful,  considering  my  pecuniary  matters,  in  some  manner  that  may  suggest  itself  during  the 
ensuing  nine  months,  until  I  have  reimbursed  my  advance  pay  and  allowances  and  can  commence  again  to 
draw  my  regular  monthly  pay. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  anything  further,  ji?/  I  shall  leave  the  expedition  in  sorrow.  I  am  become 
fond  of  Arctic  life.  I  see  many  bright  hopes  ahead.  Physically  I  feel  myself  competent  to  endure  the  pri- 
vations, hardships,  and  depressing  influences  incidental  to  life  here,  and  contemplated  working  hard  for  the 
success  of  the  expedition. 

But  I  must  be  in  the  way  or  you  could  not  have  told  me  what  you  did  this  morning,  and  rather  than 
be  the  slightest  bar  to  the  present  or  future  success  of  the  expedition,  I  abandon  all  my  bright  expectations, 
and  feel  that  it  would  be  better  that  I  go  before  it  becomes  too  late  for  me  to  do  so. 

The  Proteus  is  still  within  reaching  distance.  With  the  assistance  of  enough  men  to  help  me  take  my 
things  off  to  ship  I  can  reach  her  over  the  ice.  As  there  is  a  probability  of  the  vessel  being  obliged  to 
winter  in  the  Arctic,  I  would  ask  that  enough  subsistence  and  antiscorbutics  sufficient  to  last  me  until  next 
season  be  furnished  me. 

I  would  also  ask  that  you  furnish  me  a  letter  to  hand  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Army  explain- 
ing this  matter  and  the  state  of  my  pecuniary  aftairs. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Fred.  F.  Kislingburv, 
Second  Lieutenant^  Eleventh  Infantry,  Acting  Signal  Officer, 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  International  Polar  Expedition. 


pL^y.epyj'r  1!  I  J'  llflflBIWt 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


113 


Fort  Conger,  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  Grinnell  Land,  August  26,  i88i. 

Respectfully  forwarded  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Army. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury  has  been  relieved,  in  accordance  with  this  request.  In  connection  with  my 
finding  fault  with  him  on  previous  occasions  he  doubtless  alludes  to  a  reprimand  given  because  for  several 
days  after  landing,  while  the  men  were  working  16  hours  daily,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  rose  only  at  hours 
ranging  from  10  a.  m.  to  i  p.  m.,  and  when  sent  for  at  i  p.  m.  was  in  bed.  This  reproof  was  received  with 
bad  grace.  This  morning  breakfast  was  delayed  half  an  hour,  and  I  deemed  it  necessary  to  say  that  the 
officers  must  rise  for  breakfast  when  the  men  did.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  said  that  he  would  not  rise,  but 
would  first  go  without  his  breakfast.  I  said  that  he  must  conform  to  the  rules  and  rise  whether  he  ate  or 
not.  He  said  he  would  do  so,  only  if  it  was  insisted  on.  I  said  that  when  an  officer  required  orders  to  be 
insisted  on,  his  usefulness  as  a  member  of  the  expedition  was  destroyed.     I  declined  further  argument. 

Previous  to  issuing  this  order  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was  informed,  in  the  presence  of  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  and  Dr.  Pavy,  that  he  could  not  base  his  request  on  any  wish  of  mine  to  lose  him,  but  that  it 
must  rest  entirely  on  the  question  of  heerful  subordination  to  expeditionary  regulations,  and  that  his  status 
was  not  such  he  should  so  state.  He  so  acknowledged,  reiterating  his  unwillingness  to  conform  to  post 
regulations  which  he  deemed  obnoxious.  Such  an  assertion  shows  his  unfitness  to  remain  here  longer. 
While  admitting  his  peculiar  fitness  for  field  work,  and  regretting  his  loss  on  that  account,  I  cannot  retain 
him. 

As  regards  the  reasonableness  of  the  regulation  as  to  breakfast,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
meal  is  at  7  a.  m.,  Washington  mean  time  (7.50  mean  time),  and  that  one  man,  necessarily  unaided,  cooks  for 
four  officers  and  twenty-one  men.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  has  been  furnished  with  subsistence  slores  asked 
for.     As  to  his  pecuniary  matters  I  have  no  recommendations. 

A.  W.  Greely, 

Fi'-st  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  International  Polar  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  ii. — Orders  No.  5,  relieving  Lieutenant  Kislingbury^  and  ordering  him  to 

report  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer. 

[Orders  No.  5.] 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  August  26,  i88j. 
Second  Lieut.  F.  F.  Kislingbury,  Eleventh  Infantry,  Acting  Signal  Officer,  is  at  his  own  lequest  relieved 
from  duty  as  a  member  of  this  expedition,  and,  returning  by  the  steamer  Proteus  to  St.  John's,  Newfound- 
land, will  report  in  person  without  delay  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Army  at  Washington,  D.  C. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  0.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


'mm 

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fiU 


Appendix  No.  12. — Orders  No.  6,  amending  Orders  No.  5. 

[Orders  No.  6.] 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  LAtio,  August  2^,  1881. 
The  execution  of  Orders  No.  5,  current  series,  from  these  headquarters,  being  r'^ndered  impracticable 
by  the  departure  of  the  steamship  Proteus,  its  provisions  are  so  far  modified  as  to  direct  Second  Lieut.  F. 
F.  Kislingbury,  Eleventh  Infantry,  Acting  Signal  Officer,  to  proceed  from  this  place  to  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland, by  the  first  visiting  steamship.     In  the  mean  time  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  will  be  considered  as  on 

waiting  orders  at  this  place. 

A.  W.  Greely, 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Second  Lieut.  F.  F.  Kislingbury,  Commanding  the  Expedition. 

Eleventh  Infantry,  Acting  Signal  Officer.  .     . 

H.  Mi8.  393 8 


114 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Appendix  No.  13. — Lieutenant  Kislingbttry' s  request  for  modification  of  Orders  No.  6. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  \,MiTi,  October  2\,\^%i. 

Sir:  It  has  occurred  to  me  for  the  first  time  within  the  past  week  that  my  status,  "  waiting  orders,"  may, 
by  some  possible  construction  of  law,  affect  my  pay. 

My  fears  may  be  groundless,  but  in  order  that  there  may  be  no  doubt  in  the  matter  I  would  respectfully 
ask  that  the  clause  following  the  word  "  steamship  "  be  stricken  from  Orders  No.  6,  which  I  enclose. 

The  orders  would  still  have  the  same  effect  without  this  clause,  because  Orders  No.  5  relieved  me  from 
duty  with  the  expedition ;  and  if  the  words  "  waiting  orders  "  arc  omitted  from  the  orders  any  question 
regarding  my  pay  could  not  then  be  raised.     In  any  event  I  shall  feel  easier  in  mind  if  this  is  done. 
I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Fred.  F.  KisLiNonuRV, 
Second  Lieutenant,  Eleventh  Infantry. 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Actin,^  Signal  Officer  an./  Assistant,  Commanding;  United  States  Expedition. 


V  .  •>• 


Appendix  No.  14. — Orders  No.  S,  modifying  Orders  No.  6, 

[Orders  No.  8.] 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  October  24, 1881. 
The  final  paragraph  of  Orders  N'l.  6,  current  series,  from  this  station,  reading,  "  In  the  mean  time 
Lieutenant  Kislingbur^  will  be  considenjd  as  on  waiting  orders  at  this  place,"  is  amended  so  as  to  read : 
"  In  the  mean  time  Lieutenant  Kisiingbury  will  not  be  considered  as  a  member  of  this  expeditionary  force 

but  as  temporarily  at  tliC  station  waiting  transportation." 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieut.,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Expedition, 
Second  Lieut.  F.  F.  Kislingbur\, 

Eleventh  Infamiy,  Acting  Signal  Officer. 


ft   ;■ 


in 


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Appendix  No.  15. — Lieutenant  Lockwood''s  report  on  exploration  of  St.  Patrick  Valley. 

Lady  Franklin  Bay,  Grinnell  \.MiD,  August  xi,  1881. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  render  the  following  report  of  my  journey  to  St.  Patrick  Bay,  made  in 
obedience  to  your  wriuen  instructions  of  the  29th  instant : 

With  Sergeants  brainard  and  Cross  the  party  stnvted  on  foot  at  9  a.  m.  of  that  date  and  took  its  course 
along  the  valley  or  low  land  '.o  the  northeast  of  our  present  position,  lying  between  the  "hogback,"  as 
called  on  the  English  map,  and  the  range  >f  high  hills  or  mo mtains  running  parnliv.1  and  to  the  south  of  it. 
The  only  grade  of  any  importance,  as  regards  steepness,  lies  between  our  stat'on  and  the  gap  to  the  west  of 
Mount  Cartmel.  Even  this  may  be  obviated  by  starting  hence  directly  north,  instead  of  northeast  through 
the  gap,  though  by  so  doing  the  route  would  be  sensibly  lengthened.  liy  following  our  trnil,  however,  the 
route  selected  is  not  difficult,  and  on  attaining  the  elevation  of  the  gap,  which  is  quite  considerable,  the 
course  taken,  when  covered  witli  snow,  as  it  was  at  the  time  of  my  trip  though  not  very  deep,  is  direct  and 
quite  easy  all  the  way  to  St.  Patrick  Bay.  The  grade  is  hardly  more  thaa  perceptible  for  the  greater  part 
of  the  distance,  except  as  interrupted  by  slight  undulations  in  the  ground  caused  by  the  few  water-courses 
like  'prairie-draws,"  whi'h  take  their  courses  from  thi;  mountain  ranges  on  either  side.  The  route  will  be 
much  better  after  a  vhile  when  the  snow  has  entirely  covered  up  the  sharp  litde  hills,  a  foot  or  so  in  height 
and  very  close  together,  wliidi  the  frost  or  sonu  other  action  of  the  elements  has  created.  This  character 
of  the  ground,  however,  exists  only  in  places.  Pursuing  our  course  between  and  generally  parallel  to  the 
ranges  referred  to,  we  came  to  the  bay  about  i  o'clock.  One  hour  was  occupied  en  route  in  skinning  and 
cutting  up  a  musk-ox  which  I  killed,  making  the  time  in  crossing  three  hours. 


I 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


115 


Feeling  not  quite  assured  of  the  identity  of  the  bay,  on  account  of  various  discrepancies  in  the  map,  I 
proceeded  with  party  in  a  northerly  direction  along  what  forms  the  eastern  slope  of  the  "hogback,"  very 
steep  and  rocky  but  affording  a  good  view  of  the  country  to  the  north  and  east  intersected  with  numerous 
deep  canons.  We  proceeded  in  this  direction  about  a  mile,  and  then  turning  eastward  and  climbing  down 
a  very  steep  descent  crossed  the  wide  deep  bed  of  a  very  insignificant  river  coming  from  the  northwest — 
insignificant  and  yet  larger  than  any  hitherto  seen  in  these  regions.  We  followed  up  its  bed,  which  is  at 
least  half  a  mile  broad,  for  perhaps  a  mile,  and  then  taking  advantage  of  a  break  in  the  wall  on  the  further 
side,  climbed  our  ascent  to  the  eastward  for  almost  three  hours,  when  we  gained  an  altitYide  from  which 
could  be  seen  the  straits  and  the  coast  beyond.  We  were  opposite,  I  think,  Newman  Bay.  It  was  now 
6  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  feeling  well  satisfied  that  the  little  arm  of  the  straits  first  met  with  (though 
seemingly  entirely  too  small  and  otherwise  "out")  must  be  St.  Patrick  Bay,  I  retraced  my  course  to  the 
river-bed  and  followed  it  down  to  the  bay.  We  found  it  necessary  to  climb  the  continuation  of  the  steep, 
rugged  ascent,  already  referred  to,  between  the  river  and  the  "hogback,"  which  took  an  hour,  and  it  being 
then  too  late  to  proceed  to  the  south,  as  I  had  originally  intended,  we  returned  to  the  station,  which  we 
reached  about  12.30  a.  m.  The  site  selected  for  the  depot  is  a  good  one,  excepting  more  or  less  difficulty 
which  will  have  to  be  encountered  in  reaching  the  level  of  the  bay;  the  feet  of  the  whole  party  being  very 
cold  and  wet  I  left  this  for  more  complete  examination  on  some  other  occasion. 

I  shot  one  musk-ox,  as  already  stated,  and  saw  another  in  the  distance,  up  the  river;  we  saw  a  good 
many  tracks  of  foxes  and  hare,  but  these  were  all  the  an  .  ils  and  signs  of  animal  life  observed. 

Better  to  illustrate  the  subject,  I  have  the  honor  to  append  a  small  maj)*  or  plan  showing  the  route 
taken.    The  country  to  the  west  of  St.  Patrick  Bay  is  a  copy  of  the  English  map;  that  from  the  nGrlli  is 
from  my  recollection  of  it,  and,  of  course,  only  represents  it  in  a  very  general  way. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  B.  LOCKWOOD, 

Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S, 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  United  States  International  Polar  Expedition. 


O. 


Appendix  No.  16. — Sergeant  Brainarcfs  report  on  establishing  Depot  B,  near  Cape  Beechey. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  September  4,  i88i. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  of  a  boat  journey  to  Cape  Beechey  for  the  purpose 
of  establishing  a  depot  of  supplies  for  the  use  of  northern  exploring  parties  during  the  coming  spring: 

In  conformity  with  your  instructions  of  August  30,  188 1,  the  whale-boat  was  hauled  to  the  open  water 
near  Dutch  Island  and  placed  in  a  secure  position  for  the  night.  The  following  morning  the  boat  was 
launched  and  loaded  with  the  stores  brought  from  the  station  by  the  party,  under  your  charge,  the  same 
morning.  Owing  to  the  unsafe  condition  of  the  newly  formed  ice,  considerable  difficulty  was  experienced 
in  transferring  the  supplies  from  the  ice  to  the  boat.  It  was  accomplished,  however,  without  accident,  and 
the  start  made  at  i o.  1 5  a.  m.  My  crew  consisted  of  Sergeants  Jewell  and  Cross,  Corporal  Salor,  and  Private 
Connell.  We  rounded  Dutch  Island  in  comparatively  clear  water,  but  the  moving  ice  in  the  distance  warned 
us  that  caution  was  necessary. 

Soon  after  leaving  Dutch  Island  we  encountered  stream  ice,  and  as  we  approached  Distant  Cape  the 
ice  became  more  compact,  the  lanes  less  frequent  and  narrower,  necessitating  extreme  caution  in  pushing  our 
boat  through  them.  The  floes  were  moving  about  in  the  eddy  at  this  cape  with  such  velocity  that  we  almost 
despaired  of  effecting  a  passage.  We  were  prepared  at  all  times  to  unload  the  boat  and  haul  her  on  a  floe 
if  essential  to  safety. 

On  several  separate  occasions,  notwithstanding  our  watchfulness,  we  narrowly  escaped  being  crushed 
between  floes  moving  in  opposite  directions.  Had  not  the  crew  retained  possession  of  their  presence  of 
mind,  keeping  constantly  on  the  alert,  and  using  their  strength  to  the  best  advantage  when  a  new  danger 
menaced  them,  our  boat  must  have  been  crushed  to  atoms.     Our  situation  was  deplorable  in  the  extreme. 


*Not  reproduced. 


It 


!: 


mm, 

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116 


THE  LADY  FRANK  LIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


A  new  danger  arose  in  the  shape  of  young  ire  which  (ormeil  quickly  between  the  floes,  hut  was  no  par- 
ticular hindrance  to  their  movements.  Its  dangers  to  us  were  twofold— the  dithcuity  experienced  in  i)ushing 
our  boat  through  the  new  ice  while  endeavoring  to  elude  whirling  floes  which  threatened  us  with  destruction, 
and  the  danger  of  having  our  boat  cut  through  at  th'_  water-line  by  this  ra/.orlike  formation  of  ice.  In  many 
places  this  ice  was  found  to  have  attained  a  thickness  of  over  an  inch  [25"""]  and  our  channel  was  necessarily 
made  by  breaking  the  way  with  axes.  Underneath  this  covering  debris,  or  .sludge-ice,  was  found  to  have 
accumulated  to  the  depth  of  six  inches  [152"""]  and  through  which  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  our 
boat  could  be  moved.  At  4.30  p.  m.  we  cleared  the  j)ack  and  rounded  Distant  Cape,  keeping  well  out,  in 
order  to  take  advantage  of  the  lanes  which  appeared  larger  and  more  numerous  as  we  receded  from  the 
shore.  In  crossing  the  entrance  to  Water-course  Bay,  at  6  p.  m.,  the  ice  appeared  to  have  scattered  some: 
what  in  the  direction  of  its  northern  termination.  Steering  towards  shore,  we  found  that  not  only  did  this 
condition  exist,  but  the  new  ice  was  much  less  troublesome  than  before. 

Between  this  point  and  the  north  shore  of  St.  Patrick's  Bay  very  little  ice  of  a  formidable  character  was 
met  with.  At  7  p.  m.,  just  north  of  this  cape,  our  further  progress  was  checked  by  new  ice  which  had 
closed  all  lanes.  Not  wishing  to  venture  too  far  into  the  channel  with  the  heavily  laden  boat,  I  tied  to  the 
ice-foot  to  await  the  result  of  a  change  in  the  tide.  During  the  time  we  remained  inactive,  coffee  was  made 
and  a  light  lunch  partaken  of.  The  evident  curiosity  of  a  young  seal  having  prompted  it  to  approach  quite 
near  our  boat,  it  was  killed  by  Connell  and  taken  on  board.  A  large  fragment  of  the  ice-foot,  becoming 
detached  from  underneath,  struck  the  keel  of  our  boat  with  great  force  on  rising  to  the  surface,  and  raised 
the  stern  far  out  of  the  water.  No  damage,  however,  was  done,  except  that  a  box  containing  articles  of 
importance  to  our  equipment  was  thrown  into  the  water  and  everything  contained  in  it  lost.  Appendix  A 
forms  a  list  of  the  articles  thus  lost. 

A  brisk  northerly  wind  springing  up  at  about  8  o'clock,  the  floes  were  once  more  set  in  motion,  and  the 
young  ice  disappeared  as  if  by  magic.  At  9  o'clock  we  again  resumed  our  course  and  arrived  opposite 
Mount  Beaufort  at  12.30  a.  m.,  September  i.  Owing  to  the  fringe  of  floebergs  which  lined  the  shore  in  the 
form  of  a  huge  wall  as  far  northward  as  the  clitTs  of  Cape  Beechey,  no  landing  could  be  made  at  this  point. 
Turning  the  boat  southward  we  moved  slowly  down  the  coast,  examining  carefully  every  place  at  which  we 
thought  a  landing  could  be  effected.  At  i  a.  m.,  about  i  mile  south  of  Mount  Beaufort,  we  found  a  small 
gap  in  the  ice-wall,  through  which  we  had  very  little  difficulty  in  transporting  our  supplies. 

We  had  barely  time  to  haul  the  boat  to  a  place  of  safety  after  unloading  before  an  ice  pack  from  the 
north,  driven  by  a  high  wind,  passed  down  the  channel.  The  pack  was  supplemented  at  intervals  during  the 
day  by  other  detached  masses  from  the  Polar  basin,  all  of  which  appeared  to  choke  the  channel  not  far  to  the 
southward. 

I  detailed  a  man  for  the  purpose,  and  at  all  times  a  strict  watch  was  kept  of  the  movements  of  the  ice, 
in  order  that  the  first  favorable  opening  which  occurred  might  be  taken  advantage  of.  I  frequently  visited 
the  high  ground  in  the  vicinity  of  the  tent,  but  could  discover  no  lane  of  water  by  which  we  could  escape. 

A  suitable  site  for  the  tent  was  found  on  the  low  bench  land,  about  20  feet  [6'"]  above  high  tide  and 
100  yards  [91"']  from  the  water.  The  stores  were  carefully  packed  inside  and  securely  covered  with  a 
rubber  blanket  to  protect  them  from  dampness  and  the  drifting  snow. 

Low  and  dense  fogs  prevented  any  accurate  bearings  being  taken  during  the  day  with  the  prismatic 
compass. 

On  the  morning  of  September  2  Sergeant  Jewell  and  Private  Connell  went  to  the  summit  of  Mount 
Beaufort  with  instructions  to  take  bearings  of  all  prominent  points  and  headlands,  and  to  erect  a  cairn  in 
which  a  record  would  be  placed,  stating  the  locality  of  the  cache,  and  the  date  of  deposit.  They  were  also 
instructed  to  inspect  and  report  on  the  condition  of  the  channel  to  the  southward.  On  returning  to  camp 
they  reported  the  ice  firmly  massed  between  Cape  Murchison  and  our  position,  and  that  the  existing  circum- 
stances extended  no  possibility  of  escape  by  boat. 

In  view  of  the  damage  already  sustained  by  the  whale-boat  in  pushing  through  the  new  ice,  I  consid- 
ered it  highly  injudicious  to  again  venture  into  the  pack  without  having  a  suitable  sheathing  placed  on  her 
sides  as  a  protection  from  the  ice. 

At  3  p.  m.  we  beached  her  at  the  base  of  the  bench  land  contiguous  to  the  depot,  and  deposited  all 
her  gear  in  a  place  of  safety.  Immediately  after  this  we  turned  our  faces  towards  Fort  Conger,  each  man 
carrying  a  bundle  on  his  shoulders,  consisting  of  overcoat,  shoes,  &c.,  weighing  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-five 
pounds. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


117 


Not  deeming  it  necessary  or  advisable  to  follow  the  tortuous  course  of  the  coast  line,  we  took  an  over- 
land route  towards  the  head  of  St.  Patrick  Bay.  Arriving  at  7.40  j).  m.  on  the  shores  of  this  bay,  we 
crossed  on  the  new  ice  to  its  southern  side  and  ascended  the  abrupt  bluH  througii  a  fleep  ravine  with  steep 
rocky  sides  to  the  hills  above. 

Fort  Conger  was  reached  at  1.15  a.  m.  on  September  3,  the  party  very  tired,  lame,  and  foot-sore. 

Relative  to  the  feasibility  of  a  sledge  route  across  the  head  of  St.  Patrick  Hay,  I  would  state  for  your 
information  that  the  bluffs  on  either  side  are  too  hi^h  and  rugged  to  admit  of  their  being  used  as  u  crossing 
place  for  sledges.  However,  a  lightly  laden  sledge  could  possibly  be  lowered  down  the  abrui)t  sides  with 
ropes  and  hauled  up  the  other  in  the  same  manner,  but  this  mode  of  traveling  would  not  only  cause  great 
labor  and  loss  of  time  but  the  probable  destruction  of  the  sledge.  A  list  of  the  [iroperty  and  commissary 
stores  left  at  the  depot,  being  in  addition  to  the  regular  depot,  forms  Appendix  U. 

I  cannot  commend  too  highly  the  excellent  behavior  of  the  men  under  my  ( harge,  who,  under  trying 

circumstances,  exhibited  nerve,  coolness,  and  a  strict  observance  of  discipline  which  could  scarcely  have 

been  expected  of  those  who  were  unaccustomed  to  the  lurking  dangers  of  the  Polar  pack. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

n.  L.  Brainark, 

Sergeant,  Company  L,  Second  Cavalry, 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  U.  S.  A,,  Acting  Sii^nal  Officer  and  Assistant, 

Commandiuj^  Lady  Franklin  Hay  Expedition, 


Appendix  A. — Articles  inteml,\l  for  the  depot,  -^hich  were  aedJentally  tott  from  the  boat. 


2  can  openers. 

1  minimum  thermometer. 

2  papers  carpet  tacks. 


I  gimlet. 

1  tablespoon. 

2  fable  forks. 


too  rounds  of  ammunition. 
I  can  condensed  milk. 


Appendix  B. — List  of  the  property  anj  commissary  stores  left  at  the  depot,  heiiii;  hi  addition  to  the  rei;ul,ir  depot. 


I  whale-boat  and  rudder. 

4  oars. 

I  mast  and  sail. 

1  water-bucket  (paper). 

2  rubl)er  waler-lxittles. 
2  knapsacks, 

I  axe. 


1  tin  cup. 

2  bread  bags  (Navyl. 
I  water-breaker 

I  coffee -jiot. 

I  tablespoon. 

I  monkey-wrench. 

I  signal  flag  and  staff. 


1  recruiting  flag. 

2  (lonnds  chocolate. 
15      pounds  bread. 

2 '•^  (xiunds  sugar. 
I  y^  pounds  coffee. 
li  pound  butter. 
I      can  corned  beef. 


Ill 


Appendix  No.  17. — Sergeant  JewelP s  meteorological  report  in  connection  xvith  trip  establishing 

Depot  B. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  September  t„  1881. 

Sir:  In  compliance  with  your  instructions  for  me  to  join  the  boat  party  under  Sergeant  D.  L.  Brainard 
(sent  out  for  the  purpose  of  caching  provisions,  at  or  as  near  Cape  Beechey  as  possible,  and  to  take  and  record 
meteorological  observations,  nature  and  extent  of  the  ice,  and  any  other  physical  phenomena  worthy  of  note) 
I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report : 

Owing  to  the  new  ice,  formed  during  the  past  few  days  in  Discovery  Harbor,  it  was  necessary  to  convey 
the  boat  and  provisions  over  the  ice  by  means  of  sledges  to  the  open  water,  which  extended  but  a  short  dis- 
tance inside  of  Dutch  Island.  We  got  under  way  about  i  o.  1 5  a.  m.,  August  3 1 ,  following  the  most  favorable 
water-leads  for  reaching  Distant  Cape. 

We  found  no  difficulty  in  making  a  nearly  direct  course  for  about  a  mile,  as  the  ice  was  in  small  packs, 
and  with  no  apparent  movement.  This  apathy  of  the  ice  did  not  long  continue,  as  an  inward  movement 
was  discovered  about  1 1  a.  m.,  the  pack  bearing  down  upon  the  boat  from  the  eastward. 


(!' 


118 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITIOX. 


i 


I 


Having  cleared  ourselves  from  this  danger  with  great  difficulty,  we  took  advantage  of  a  largi  lead  that 
opened  to  the  eastward.  Hut  this  was  soon  closed  by  the  ice  coming  from  the  shore.  Irom  this  time  until 
4.30  p.  m.,  when  we  rounded  Distant  Cape,  there  was  a  continual  movement  from  all  ilirections,  and  we 
were  driven  over  a  mile  from  the  shore  by  the  moving  ice. 

The  currents  between  Dutch  Island  anil  Distant  (ape  appear  to  be  entirely  under  local  influences,  and 
apparently  governed  by  no  fixed  laws,  except  that  at  the  time  of  high  water,  which  occurreil  between  3  and 
4  p.  m.,  they  were  much  stronger  than  at  any  other  time. 

The  cause  of  this  diversity  is  probably  on  account  of  the  prominent  headlands  in  the  vicinity,  consisting 
of  Cape  Lieber,  .south ;  Distant  Cape,  north,  and  those  projecting  from  Bellot  Island,  at  the  entrance  of 
Discovery  Harbor. 

After  passing  Distant  Cape  we  found  an  open  lead  that  extended  a  long  distance  to  the  north.  With 
the  exception  of  new  ice,  that  greatly  retardeil  our  progress,  the  lead  remained  open  until  8  p.  m.  At  this 
time  the  ice  began  to  move  again,  and  it  was  ileemed  advisable  to  make  a  landing  on  the  ice-foot,  where  we 
remained  until  9.20  p.  m.,  at  which  time  we  again  got  under  way. 

The  ice-foot  began  to  increase  rapidly  after  we  pas.sed  St.  Patrick  Bay,  extending,  in  places,  at  least 
one  fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  shore.  The  currents  run  from  northeast  and  southwest,  parallel  with  the  coast. 
From  the  former  with  the  flood,  and  the  latter  with  the  ebb  tide. 

In  order  to  make  any  progress  toward  the  north  it  was  necessary  to  follow  the  leads  that  inclined  to- 
ward the  eastern  coast,  and  at  1 1  p.  m.  we  were  at  least  four  miles  from  the  shore.  In  the  mean  time  the 
temperature  began  to  fall,  and  the  new  ice  to  form  rapidly,  and  it  became  a  serious  matter  as  to  whether  we 
could  reach  the  shore  through  it.  We,  in  consequence,  made  no  more  northerly,  but  bent  our  entire  energies 
upon  reaching  the  open  water  near  the  western  shore,  opposite  Mount  Beaufort. 

We  arrived  at  this  point  at  1 2.30  a.  m.,  and  found  it  impossible  to  land  on  account  of  the  ice-foot.  Seeing 
that  there  was  no  hope  of  landing  any  farther  north,  and  realizing  that,  as  the  northwest  wind  had  increased 
to  brisk  (force  5  to  6  [about  2.5'"  per  second]),  it  would  be  expedient  to  land  as  soon  as  possible,  we  accord- 
ingly made  a  landing  about  one  mile  south  of  Mount  Beaufort  at  i  a.  m.  In  less  than  half  an  hour  after 
we  had  landed  everything  on  shore,  and  beached  our  boat,  the  ice  began  to  come  down  in  heavy  packs, 
completely  filling  the  channel  with  moving  ice. 

The  wind  diminished  during  the  early  morning,  but  as  the  day  advanced  increased  to  a  gale,  with  occa- 
sional snow  and  dense  cumulo-stratus  clouds  covering  the  coast  line,  so  that  your  instructions  relating  to 
the  angular  measurements  of  the  adjacent  points  could  not  be  carried  out.  As  the  ice  showed  no  .sign  of 
breaking  up  it  was  decided  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  to  leave  the  boat  and  return  to  Fort  Conger  by  land. 
At  II  a.  m.  I,  accompanied  by  Private  Council,  made  the  a.scension  of  Mount  Beaufort,  on  the  summit  oj 
which  mountain  we  erected  a  cairn.  I  was  enabled  to  measure  the  following  angles,  viz;  Depot  B  of  Lady 
Fmnklin  Bay  Expedition,  N.  220°  E. ;  Cape  Lieber,  N.  191°  E. ;  and  Cajie  Sumner,  N.  88"  E.  The  eleva- 
tion, as  .shown  approximately  by  an  aneroid  barometer,  was  675  teet  [206'"]  above  the  sea. 

We  arrived  at  the  cache  at  2.30  p.  m.,  and  at  3  p.  m.  started  on  our  return,  arriving  at  St.  Patrick  Bay 
at  7.30  p.  m.  Here  we  found  the  ice  strong  enough  to  allow  our  crossing  on  it,  and  arrived  at  F'ort  Conger 
at  I  a.  m.  The  route  taken  on  our  return  would  be  an  excellent  one  for  sledging,  were  it  not  for  the  pre- 
cipitous cliffs  on  each  side  of  St.  Patrick  Bay.  These  I  consider  insurmountable  for  a  sledge,  and  would 
recommend  the  shore-line  instead. 

You  will  find  inclosed  herewith  the  meteorological  observations,  which  are  incomplete  owing  to  the 
loss  of  my  thermometers;  the  minimum  having  been  lost  overboard  while  we  were  moored  to  the  ice-foot, 
and  water  thermometer  broken  while  taking  an  observation. 

W.  S.  Jewell, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps. 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

Commanding  Lady  Frank'in  Bay  Expedition,  ■ 


Smt.. — The  rejrular  meteorological  ol)ser\'ations  are  omitted  here,  as  they  are  incorporated  in  the  detailed  field  ol)servatioiii 
elsewhere  (Appendix  No.  138). — A.  W.  Grekly,  Lieutenant. 


1!  i 


TUE  LADY  FKANKLIN  ItAV  EXPEDITION. 


119 


Appendix  No.  i8. — Sergeant  (iarditier's  report  of  trip  lo  Oipe  Murchison. 

\         Fort  Comikr,  Grinnk.i.i,  \,k^i\  Siplem/>fr  G,  i88i. 

Sir;  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report  its  obedience  to  instructions,  dated  Fort  Conger, 
September  4,  18S1,  directinc;  nie  to  proceed,  accompanied  by  C'lrporul  N.  Salor,  to  the  south  shore  of  St. 
Patrick  Uay  and  examine  the  "cliffs,"  also  the  country  between  th.U  bay  and  this  "post,"  and  report  is 
to  the  jtracticability  of  a  route  for  loaded  sledge  and  party. 

Leaving  this  post  at  7.40  a.  m.,  September  5, 1881,  accompanied  by  Corporal  Salor,  I  proceeded  to  the 
northward  along  the  valley  between  the  "hogback  "and  the  mountains  nearer  the  coast.  After  reaching  the 
"lakes"  I  took  a  northeast  course  and  ascended  the  mountain  close  to  the  shore  of  St.  Patrii  k  Hay.  I  he 
route  to  the  foot  of  this  mountain  would  be  good  traveling  for  a  sledge.  Hut  it  is  imj)racticable  any  farther 
on  .account  of  the  cliffs  bordering  the  bay  being  very  high  and  steej).  Descending  the  mou  .ain  we  found 
that  we  were  on  the  south  shore  of  the  bay  and  op|)osite  Cape  Heaufort. 

Up  to  this  time,  i  p.  m.,  a  dense  fog  had  obscured  everything  from  view,  anil  at  times  so  ilense  that 
objects  ten  yards  [9"']  away  could  not  be  seen  distinctly.  The  fog  now  rising  allowed  us  to  see  objects 
around  us  more  clearly,  and  I  examined  carefully,  with  the  glass,  all  the  north  shore  of  the  bay  for  three- 
(juarters  of  a  mile  from  the  mouth,  but  failed  to  find  any  point  that  would  be  accessible  for  a  sledge  party 
to  land  after  crossing  the  bay  on  the  ice. 

On  the  south  shore,  and  opposite  Cape  Beaufort,  I  found  a  small  boat  containing  two  oars  and  t^o 
paddles;  boat  was  twelve  feet  [4"']  in  length  and  in  fair  contlition.  It  was  marked  with  the  word  "  Dis- 
covery" on  the  stern-post.  I  searched  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  for  records  but  did  not  find  any_ 
About  half  a  mile  to  the  southe.ast  of  the  boat  and  about  ten  feet  [3"'|  above  high  water  I  found  a  large 
sledge  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  (3  or  4'"]  in  length  and  three  or  four  feet  [914  or  i,2i9'""'|  wide;  also  one 
large  spirit-lamp,  one  pickax,  and  one  small  smelting  ladle;  and  small  piece  of  lead  about  one  pound  in 
weight.  Everything  was  in  good  condition  with  the  exception  of  being  a  little  weather  stained.  Here  we 
also  searched  for  records  but  found  none.     The  sledge  wis  marked  "  H.  M.  Sledge  Disitnrry." 

Resuming  our  route  around  Cape  Murchison,  we  found  good  traveling  on  the  ice-foot  and  lower  parts 
of  the  shore.  We  followed  the  shore  of  Robeson  Channel  ':>  Water-course  Hay,  thence  through  the  valley 
from  the  coal  mine  to  this  post,  arriving  at  5.30  p.  m.  after  an  absence  of  ten  hours,  and  having  traveled 
about  twenty-five  miles. 

I  would  respectfully  state,  as  the  result  of  :  'v  ohserv.iiions  during  the  trip,  that  the  only  practicable 
route  for  a  party  and  sledge  traveling  from  this  post  to  cro:,s  St.  Patrick  Bay,  is  by  way  of  the  valley  lead- 
ing to  the  coal  mine  and  Water-course  Bay,  and  thence  to  ibllow  the  coast  around  Cape  Murchison,  cross- 
ing the  bay  to  the  outermost  point  of  Cape  Beaufort,  which  is  low  and  much  the  same  in  character  as  Cape 
Murchison,  and  is  the  only  i)oint  accessible  on  the  northern  shore. 

I  would  respectfully  refer  you  to  inclosed  map*  of  the  country,  and  the  route  by  which  we  traveled. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

H.  S.  Gardiner, 

Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S,  A. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  U.  S.  A., 

Commanding  International  Polar  Expedition. 


% 


Appendix  No.  19. — Sergeant  Limi's  report  on  moving  Depot  A  to  Cape  Murchison. 

Fort  Conner,  Grinnei.l  Land,  September  10,  1881. 

Leaving  Fort  Conger  at  8  a.  m.,  September  7,  188 1,  we  arrived  at  the  end  of  the  ravine,  A  (see  inclosed 
map),*  at  10.25  a.  m. 

The  arm  of  the  axle  was  bent  going  over  the  rough  ground  and  the  wagon  worked  badly.  Took  the 
II  o'clock  observation:  Barometer,  29.63 [752.59'""'];  thermometer,  21  [—6.1°  C.];clouds,i'^„  cumulus;  wind, 
NW.,  moderate.     B,  here  we  found  that  spokes  in  theluibhad  broken,  and  we  strapped  the  wheel.    Started 


*Map  not  reproduced;  see  map  of  Fort  Conger  and  vicinity. 


in 


120 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


again  and  made  next  stoppage  o"  small  lake,  near  Musk-ox  Meat  on  Triangle,  C ;  time,  1 1 ,45  a.  m.  Arrived  on 
beach  at  Water-course  Bay,  i  p.  m.,1),  odometer  registering  3,  riSg  revolutions  (6.02  miles).  Followed  the  beach 
in  hopes  to  get  ice-foot,  and  in  doing  so  discovered  wagon,  E,  near  high-water  mark.  Took  off  forward 
wheels  of. newly  found  wagon  and  put  on  our  load.  Looked  at  odometer  of  old  wagon;  3,409  revolutions 
(6.26  miles).  Started  again  but  had  to  abandon  wheels,  F,  on  account  of  steep  hill.  Time,  2.30  p.  m. 
Divided  load  and  proceeded  to  destination,  only  stopping  to  take  3  p.  m.  observation.  Result:  Barometer, 
29.45  [748.02"""];  thermometer,  19.5°  [—6.9°  C.];  wind,  NW.,  blowing  fresh;  foggy  and  snowing  light. 
Found  sledge,  G,  at  4.45  p.  m.;  dropped  our  loads  and  searched  for  the  boat,  H,  which  we  found  at  5.15 
p.  m.  Turned  over  boat  and  discovered  several  cracks  in  her  bottom ;  two  men  can  handle  her  easily. 
Followed  shore  on  southern  side  of  St.  Patrick  Bay  up  to  'J',  where  we  climbed  cliff;  arrived  on  top  of 
cliff,  7  p.  m.  Took  observation:  Barometer,  28.76  [731.00"'"'];  thermometer,  21.5  [  — s.8°C.];  thick  fog, 
but  no  wind.  Kept  near  edge  of  mountain  in  sight  of  bay  and  reached  tent,  K,  at  10.25  P-  ™'  Rested 
here  awhile  and  took  11  o'clock  p.m.  observation:  Barometer,  28.36  [720.33"'"'];  thermometer,  19 1  —7.2°  C.]; 
dense  fog;  wind,  NW.,  moderate. 

Made  cairn,  containing  a  box,  letter,  and  12  hardbreads,  and  then  started  to  a  ravine  which  we  followed 
down  toward  the  creek  at  the  head  of  St.  Patrick  Bay,  L;  it  brought  us  within  1,000  yards  [914"']  of  the  head 
of  bay.  Took  the  ice  from  there  to  almost  the  place  where  we  climbed  the  cliff,  T,  before  mentioned.  The 
ice  here  growing  too  thin  we  followed  our  old  track  as  near  as  possible.  Took  3  o'clock  observation : 
Barometer, 29.86  [758.43'""'];  thermometei,  20  [— 6.7°C.];  wind,  NW.;  fog  lifted  some.  Reached  sledge 
at  5  a.  m.,  September  8,  1881,  and  erected  tent,  G.  Rested  and  cooked  c  ifee,  and  at  9  a.  m.  started  again 
with  the  sledge.  Arrived  at  Water-course  Bay  at  12  m.,  having  only  stopped  on  our  way  to  take  1 1  o'cIock 
a.  m.  observation;  result:  Barometer,  29.83  [75767"'"'];  thermometer,  16  [— 8.9°C.J;  wind,  N.,  quite  fresh. 
Here  vre  stopped  long  enough  to  get  forward  wheels  of  newly  found  wagon  and  abandoned  the  day  before, 
F,  and  brought  the  same  back  to  its  old  place,  E.  We  now  tried  to  bring  .vagon  and  sledge  both  to  Fort 
Conger,  but  it  proved  too  much  for  us,  and  we  started  with  the  sledge  and  the  old  wagon  on  top  of  it.  Took 
3  o'clock  observation  on  lake,  C;  result:  Barometer,  29.02  [757.41"'°'];  thermometer,  19  [  —  7.2°  C.];  wind,  N. 
moderate;  clouds,  cumulus.  We  here  tried  to  get  water,  but  without  success;  after  having  dug  three  holes 
in  different  places,  and  striking  dirt  every  time,  we  gave  it  up.  At  the  head  of  caflon,  near  coal  mine,  we 
saw  what  we  supjiosed  to  be  water,  and  on  going  there  found  it  to  be  true.  We  drank  some,  this  being  our 
first  water  that  we  had  since  we  left  camp,  and  then  [roceeded  on  our  journey. 

Arrived  at  Fort  Conger  6  p.  m.     Sledge  pulled  1  eavily  and  cut  through  light  snow  all  the  way. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

David  Linn, 

Sergeant  in  diarge. 


Appendix  No.  20. — Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  for  overland  jottrncy  to  Liticohi  Bay. 

Fort  CoNCiER,  Grinnei-i,  Land,  August  29,  1881. 

Sir:  Accomp.anied  by  Sergeant  George  W.  Rice,  you  will  proceed  northward  along  Robeson  Channel 
as  far  as  you  deem  prudent,  with  the  vi  jw  of  ascert.iininp  whether  any  traces  of  yeannctte  are  to  be  found 
to  the  northward.  While  absent  you  nill  also  note  the  best  route  for  sledge  travel  during  the  coming  autumn 
and  sjjring,  and  will  .ascertain  the  condition  of  the  depot  of  1,000  rations  established  by  Sir  George  Nares, 
on  the  north  side  of  Lincoln  Bay.  V'ou  will  examine  carefully  all  cairns  ."iid  will  bring  back  with  you  such 
original  record";  .is  are  found,  leaving  in  their  stead  copies  thereof,  and  also  such  records  of  the  present 
expedition  .is  are  furnished  you,  as  well  as  a  statement  of  your  own  trip.  Copies  of  such  records  will  be 
ret.nined  for  my  information.  At  the  most  northern  point  reached,  you  will,  from  the  highest  practicable 
ground,  exai  ine  most  carefully  with  your  telescope  all  laiul  and  routes  to  the  northward,  that  nothing  may 
escape  your  notice. 

You  will  be  accompanied  during  one  day's  march  by  Sergeants  D.  C.  Ralston  and  D.  Linn,  who  will 
transport  one  common  tent  and  other  cquii)age  and  supplies,  which  will  be  left  at  your  first  camping  place 
for  the  convenience  of  further  parties  traveling  along  the  coast.  In  going  north  to  St.  Patrick  Bay  you 
will  take  the  route  to  the  westward  of  Mount  Cartmel,  and  on  your  return  will,  if  your  party  is  in  fit  condi- 


TOE  LADY  FRANKLIN  «AY  EXPEDITION. 


121 


tion,  and  the  weather  good,  endeavor  to  ascertain  whether  Wrangel  Bay  can  be  reached  from  Lincoln  Bay 
by  an  interior  route.  Meteorological  observations  will  be  made  when  practicable  at  7  a,  m.,  3  j).  m.,  and  1 1 
p.  m.,  Washington  mean  time.  Your  experience  in  travel  within  the  Arctic  circle,  as  well  as  your  long  study 
of  the  proposed  work,  cause  me  to  trust  wholly  to  your  judgment  and  iliscretion,  as  to  the  details  of  the 
journey. 

I  am,  very  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavaliy, 
Actin)^  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant,  Commandinf^. 


Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Paw,  U.  S.  Army. 

[Inclosures,  two;  record  ami  list  of  provisions  carried  by  supporting  party. 
Washington  Irving  Island  (see  Appendix  No.  7).] 


Record  a  duplicate  of  tliat  deposited  on 


It; 


Appendix  No.  21. — Report  of  Dr.  Paxiy*  on  trip  to  Lincoln  Bay. 

Fort  Cqnoer,  Grinnei.i,  Land,  September  14,  1881. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  inclose  the  report  of  my  cerland  journey  between  the  dates  of  the  29th 
August  and  the  8th  September. 

The  29th  August,  at  7  p.  m.,  accompanied  by  Sergeant  Rice,  we  left  Fort  Conger,  Discovery  Harbor. 
Our  baggage  .md  provision  including  two  haversacks,  two  blankets,  and  a  shelter  tent,  was  strapped  on  our 
shoulders.  At  8  p.m.  we  caught  up  widi  the  party  send  \sic\  ahead.  Following  then  a  northwest  diret'tion 
(true),  at  1.30  a.  m.  we  camped  on  the  top  of  the  cliffs  that  form  the  south  side  of  St.  Patrick  Bay.  During 
the  march,  at  10.30  p.  m.,  we  met  with  the  party  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 

At  1 1.30  a.  m.,  August  30,  we  cooked  breakfast.  Sending  back  Sergeants  Ralston  and  Linn  with  the 
empty  wagon  at  i  p.  m.,  accompanied  by  Sergeant  Rice,  I  followed  until  4  p.  m.,  at  the  height  of  1,500  feet, 
[457'"]  in  a  western  direction,  the  high  cliffs  of  St.  Patrick  Bay.     The  walk  was  very  tiresome;  at  4  p.  m.  we 

saw  a 1  to  the  north.     From  4  p.  m.  to  5.30  p.  m.  we  descendeil  precipetious  \sie\  cliffs.     From  5.30 

J),  m.  we  followed  the  valley  towards  the  north,  finding  numerous  fresh  tracks  of  musk-o.xen  on  ihe  snow. 
From  7  p.  m,  to  11.30  p.  m.  we  ascended  a  mountain,  over  2,000  feet  [610"']  high,  bearing  southwest  (true) 
from  Mount  Buford  [Beaufort].  From  its  sutnmit  the  view  extended  to  the  south  [?|  over  the  snowy  peaks 
of  the  United  States  range ;  at  our  feet  to  the  north  over  a  extensive  valley. 

To  the  northeast  we  could  see  the  s'lmimts  only  of  the  mountains  of  Polaris  Promentory  \sic\,  the  sea  in 
that  direction  being  covered  by  fog.  Until  12  p.  m.  we  descended,  when  we  camped,  in  the  expectation 
that  the  fog  would  raise  \sic\  in  the  morning. 

August  31,  awoke  at  8  a.  m.  The  fog  was  sti'.i  vei/  thick,  but  at  11  a.  m.  it  raised  fjvVJ.  At  11.30 
a.  m.  started.  Descend  \sic\  very  steep.  At  i  p.  m.  reached  the  valiey  leading  north,  but  soutinvest  of  Cape 
Beechey.  Walked  until  3  p.  m. ;  saw  numerous  traces  of  musk-oxen  and  foxes.  Weather  beautyful  [v/VJ, 
At  3  p.  m.  ascended  a  small  hill  and  halted.  Left  there  the  first  cache  for  the  returning  journey.  When 
building  a  small  cairn  for  provisions  saw  nine  musk-oxen.  Rice  went  in  persuit  \sic\\  fired  two  .shots  with 
the  revolver  without  success.  From  this  point  ascended  several  hills  and  walking  over  several  hills  in  a 
northeast  direction  (true). 

Arrived  at  the  lake,  1 1.30  p.  m.,  when,  breaking  the  ice  for  water,  Rice  saw  a  stnall  fish  six  or  eight  inches 
[about  178"""]  long.  From  the  lake  ve  reached  the  coast  and  followed  it  on  the  ice-foot  to  a  point  south 
of  the  black  cliffs.  P'inding  it  impossible  to  pa.ss,  on  account  of  the  absence  of  ice-foot  and  the  almost  jjcrpen- 
dicular  cliffs,  we  returned  to  a  j)oint  south,  where,  at  1.30  a.  m.,  September  i,  we  struck  ...imp.  September  i, 
at  11.30,  broke  camti,  climbed  by  a  very  steep  ravine  on  the  plateau  of  a  mountain,  i.^oo  feet  [457"']; 
followed  its  as(;eniiing  grade  in  a  northward  direction.     Wind  blowing  a  strong  gale,  witii  drifting  snow. 

*  All  the  re|x>rts  of  Dr.  Pavy,  for  ovious  reasons,  have  been  reproduced  literatim.  Ilracketed  parts  are  interpolations.— 
A.  W.  G.     I  Omission  in  original.   -A.  VA  Ci. 


r;  '■ 


I  !■  >■  !» 


'';   1 1 


122 


THE  LADY  FKA^^aiIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


This  days  walk  very  disagreeable.  Reached  Wrangell  Bay  12  p.  m.  Struck  camp  close  to  water-course,  200 
feet  [6i'"|  above  the  level  the  sea.  Many  traces  of  musk-oxen  and  seal.  September  2,  broke  camp  at  11 
a.  m. ;  weather  very  fine;  followed  the  west  and  north  shore  of  the  bay  on  the  ice-foot.  Took  the  coast 
northward  from  the  ice  foot,  which  in  places  is  formed  by  very  heavy  ice.  Here  and  there  pools  of  fresh 
witer  prove  that  this  ice  has  not  melted  this  year.  Have  seen  very  few  pieces  th  u  I  would  call  paleochris- 
tique  [paleocrystic] ;  none  at  all  in  the  straits.    The  ice  was  in  motion  under  the  influence  of  the  tide. 

Reached  Cape  Frederick  at  9  p.  m.  Here  the  pressure  of  the  ice  upon  the  coast  is  great.  At  the 
head  of  the  bay  found  traces  of  coal.  Here  crossed  on  the  ice  to  the  northeast  shore ;  ascended  its  very 
steep  grade.  Saw  a  lake  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  extend  f ^/V] ;  mistook  it  for  a  bay,  but  was  obliged  to 
ascend  the  hill  once  more.  Walked  then  towards  a  bold  cape,  that  I  take  to  be  Cape  Constitution.  Then 
returning  to  the  southwest,  were  we  had  left  our  sacks,  followed  the  coast,  and  found,  at  10  a.  m.,  August  3, 
the  depot  of  1,000  rations  left  by  Sir  George  Nares  in  1875.  August  3,  at  i  p.  m.,  put  up  tent.  We  have 
walked  22  hours,  on  a  few  bisquits  \sif]  and  a  cup  of  chocolade  [sic].  Rice  complained  of  his  feet  paining 
him  considerable.     At  our  fartherst  north  I  have  seen  no  traces  of  the  yeanette.  expedition. 

From  where  I  write  now,  1,000  feet  [303'"]  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  with  an  horizon  as  clear  as  it  can  be 
possible  to  find,  I  can  follow  the  line  of  the  Greenland  coast  to  the  northeast  from  Cape  Brevoort  to  Cape 
Bryant;  then  in  indentation,  and  another  point  that  I  take  to  be  the  land  of  Cape  May.  Further  north  two 
other  spots  of  land,  seperated  \sk\  by  two  lines  of  horizon  and  of  different  shade,  can  be  clearly  seen.  The 
fartherst  of  these  I  believe  to  be  Beumo:it  [Beaumont]  Island,  the  other,  more  to  the  east,  Cape  Brittania 
[Britannia],  or  Stevenson  [Stephenson]  Island. 

To  the  south,  on  the  Grinnell  Land  coast.  Cape  Frederick  the  Seventh  barr  \sic\  all  view  of  land.  On 
the  Greenland  coast  I  can  see  as  far  as  Kennedy  Channel.  To  the  east  the  ice  is  closely  packed  on  the  coast. 
To  the  north  the  sea  is,  as  far  as  the  view  extends,  as  a  white  sheet,  dark  only  in  few  places  by  pools  of 
vater.  On  the  Grinnell  Land  side,  from  south  of  Cape  Frederick  the  Seventh  as  far  north  as  I  can  see,  there 
i;i  a  broad  channel  of  open  water  extending  at  my  feet,  about  2  miles  from  the  coast.  September  4,  at  8  a.  m., 
called  Rice.  He  suffers  extremely  of  his  swollen  feet ;  can  scarcely  put  on  his  boots.  We  descend  from  the 
summit  of  the  hill  to  the  depot  of  provisions,  placed  about  75  feet  [23"']  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
weather  is  beautifull  \sic\. 

Worked  all  day  in  opening  and  closing  barrels.  Difficult  work  for  men  that  are  not  coopers.  Of  the 
provisions,  as  I  have  before  stated  to  you,  1,200  pounds  of  canned  meat  are  still  good.  All  the  bread  is 
spoiled;  the  chocolade  [w],  stearine,  and  rum  are  good;  part  of  the  tea,  potatoes,  and  tobacco  is  spoiled. 

At  6  p.  m.  broke  camp.  One  mile  from  camp.  Rice,  with  a  revolver,  killed  a  white  hare.  I  added  its 
weight  to  my  own.  The  skin  and  skeleton  is  \sic\  worth  its  earring  \su\.  We  crossed  the  bay  on  the  ice,  2 
miles  from  its  head.  Followed  the  same  route  as  the  clay  before,  and  after  16  hours  of  walk  struck  Wrangel 
Bay  at  lo  a.  m.,  September  5.  Rice  is  exceedingly  tired.  Broke  camp  at  6  p.  m.,  and  following  again  our 
old  track  in  the  fog,  on  top  of  the  plateau,  we  reached  the  most  northeasterly  lake  of  Beechey  Valley,  3  p.  m., 
September  6.  Rice  is  exhausted;  cannot  eat.  Left  knee  consider.ible  swollen  as  well  as  both  wrists.  The 
pulse  beat  112.  He  told  me  that  several  times  he  has  been  affected  with  accute  rheumatism.  I  admire  his 
endurence  [j/r]  and  pluck.  It  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  better  man  to  travel  with.  At  7  p.  m.  woke  up 
Rice.    Started,  9  p.  m. ;  he  can  scarcely  walk. 

At  9  a.  m.,  September  7,  arrived  at  our  first  depot  on  the  journey.  Put  up  tent.  Ate  roast-beef  and 
chocolade  [«Vj;  but  Rice  having  no  appetite.  His  articulation  \sic\  seems  t«.  be  swollen.  Tht  situation  is 
critical.  He  wants  me  to  leave  him  there  and  return  to  Fort  Conger  for  a  relief  p.irty,  but  be  "ore  I  leave 
him  we  must  reach  the  other  side  r !  St.  Patrick  B.iy.     It  is  impossible  of  thinl;ing  of  leaving  him  here. 

At  8  o'clock,  September  8,  broke  camp ;  follow  slowly  the  valley  to  the  west  of  Mount  Buford  [Beaufort]. 
Ascend  the  mountain,  on  top  of  which  we  had  cam])e(l  3 nth  August.  Partly  lost  our  way  in  the  fog,  and  came 
down  in  St.  Patrick  B.ay  VjiUey,  following  a  cliff  formed  by  rock  slide,  which  I  think  I  would  be  afraid  now  to 
climb.  The  energy  .and  endurence  \sh\  of  Rice  is  \su\  wonderful.  At  9  p.  m.  we  arrived  in  the  v.illey  of  the 
end  of  St.  Patrick  Bay.  I'ut  up  the  tent.  Left  Rice  at  10  p.  m.,  and  reached  Fort  Conger  at  4  a.  m. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant. 

Octave  Pavy, 
Acting  Aishtant  Surgfotiy  U,  S.  Army. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


123 


Lists  brought  from  Lincoln  Bay, 

(No.  5.) 


This  cask  contains : 
Chocolate:  2  parcels;  cakes  marked  in  ^ -pound  squares ;  5 

squares  =  1  man  for  20  tlays. 
Sugar  for  chocolate  :  1 2  parcels ;  each  parcel  =  i  man  for  20 

days. 
Tea  and  sugar  {mixed):  12  parcels;  each  parcel  =  i  man  for 

20  days. 
Tobacct :  4  parcels ;  each  parcel  contains  ^ -pound  packets;   I 

packet  =  I  man  8  days. 
Salt :  1 2  parcels  ;  each  parcel  =  I  man  for  20  days. 
Pepper :  12  parcels;  each  parcel  =  i  man  for  20  days. 
Potatoes :  1 2  parcels  ;  each  parcel  =  I  man  for  20  days. 


Onion  pcruider:  4  Imttlcs  of  y^   pound  each;   yi  ounce  =  i 

man  for  20  days. 
Matches:  4  Ixjxes,  each  box  containing  ainut  75  matches. 
Sparc  wick  :   10  feet. 

Stearine  :  4  jjarcels,  each  cake  divided  into  j^ -pound  S(|uares. 
12  men,  2j(  jmunds  :=  allowance  for  I  day. 
8  men,  i  yi  pounds  =  allowance  for  i  day. 
2  men,  i  |x>und  =:  .lUowance  for  I  day. 
Tin  opener. 

In  the  kilderkin  will  be  found  22^  pounds  of  stearine  in 
i^-ix)und  packets. 

G.  S.  N.  [f;jX3R(;E  S.  Nares],  July  28,  1875. 


1,000  Ramons  Dei'ot. 


(A  layer  of  bread-bag 
•  betweeneveryi7  '/^pounibi, 
or  I  man  for  20  days.) 


Preserved  meat,  1,375  pounds: 
375  |iounds,  in  lieu  of  bacon. 
37  cases  and  4  tins  in  No.  5  cask. 
Biscuit,  875  pounds  : 

375       pounds  in  No.  12  cask  ;  not  divided. 
35       pounds  in  No.  7  cask. 
87  li  pounds  in  No.  4  cask. 
87  ^  pounds  in  No.  I  o  cask. 
87^  IK)undsinNo.  iicask. 
^TA  IMunds  in  No.  8  cask. 
60      i)ounds  in  No.  3  cask ;  not  divided. 
35       pounds  in  No.  I  cask  ;  divided. 
20      pounds  in  No.  13  cask;  not  divided. 
Preserved  potatoes,  1 25  pounds  : 

30  ])ounds  in  No.  6  cask.  1  In  packets  of  2%  pounds  each, 
30  imuiids  in  No.  5  cask.  '       or  one  man  for  20  days. 
50  pounds  in  metal  cases;   15  pounds  in  metal  case. 
Kum,  23^  gallons,  in  cask  : 

8  g.allons,  in  lieu  of  spirits  of  wine  and  stearine. 
Chocolate,  62 J^  pounds: 

15  pounds  in  No.  6  cask,  15  pounds  in  No.  5  cask,  32^ 
pounds  in  No.  3  cask;  divided  into  %  pound  squares, 
5  s<iuares  being  I  man  for  20  days. 
Sugar  for  chocolate,  31  j^  pounds : 

7^  ]K)unds  in  No.  6  cask ;  7  !^  pounds  in  No.  5  cask ;  lb% 
pounds  in  No.  2  cask. 
Tea,  islg  pounds;  Sugar,  47  pounds;  mixed: 

15  |x>unds  in  No.  5  cask;   15  pounds  in  No.  6  cask;  32 
pounds  5  ounces  in  No.  2  cask. 
Stearine,  165  pounds; 

60  pounds  in  No.  5  cask,  60  pounds  in  No.  6  cask ;  divided 
into  ^ -pound  squares. 


22yi  pounds  in  No.  7  cask,  22|^  pounds  in  No.  I  cask; 

in  packets  of  i  >^  pounds  each,  or  8  men  for  i  day. 
12  men,  allowance  for  I  day  =  2%  pounds. 
8  men,  .illowance  for  i  day  =  lyi  pounds. 
2  men,  allowance  for  i  day=  i      [xaund. 
Tobacco,  31  %  pounds  : 

TYi  in  No.  5  ca.sk,  7}^  in  No.  6  cask,  16^  in  No.  2  cask ; 

in  packets  of  '4' -pound  each. 
%  IMHind  =  8  men  for  i  day. 
Salts,  1\% : 

I  [xiund  14  ounces  in  No.  5  cask,  l  pound  14  ounces  in 
No.  6  cask;  in  packets,  i  man  20  days;  remainder  in 
No.  2  cask. 

/V/A'-.  3r,i : 

34  pound  in  No.  5  cask,  J  pound  in  No.  6  cask ;  in  packets, 
I  man  for  20  days ;  remainder  in  No.  2  cask. 
Onion  poivder,  16  bottles  : 

4  l)ottles  in  No.  5  cask,  4  bottles  in  No.  6  cask,  8  1  )ttles 
in  No.  2  cask;   each  bottle  J^  pound,  2'/^  ounces  =  i 
man  20  days. 
Ciirry  paste,  I  jar  of  4^  )X)Unds  : 

\%  ounces  =  l  man  for  20  days. 
Matches,  lo  boxe:  : 

4  boxes  in  N).  5  cask ;  4  lioxes  in  No.  6  cask  ;  2  boxes  in 
No.  2  cask. 
Spare  wick,  30  feet : 

10  feet  in  No.  5  cask;  10  feet  in  No.  6  cask ;   10  feet  in 
No.  2  cask. 
Tin  opener  in  No.  2  cask. 


G.  S.  N.  [George  S.  Nares],  August  30. 


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124 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION, 


Appendix  No.  22. — Report  of  Lieutenant  I^ckivood  on  journey  to  the  Belloivs. 

Fort  (Jonoer,  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  C'iRinnei.i,  Land,  Si-ptemher  19,  1881. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  n  nder  the  following  report  of  my  expedition  to  "  The  Bellows,"  made  in  pur- 
suance to  your  instructions  of  t.ie  9th  instant. 

Accompanied  by  Sergeant  Gardiner  and  the  Eskimo  Frederick,  I  left  here  at  ic  o'clock  a.  m.,  Sep- 
tember 1 1,  with  a  dog  sledge  and  oight  dogs. 

Weight  of  load  as  follows :  • 

Pounds. 

Provisions  (four  days  for  three  men) 51 

Dog  food 31 

Two  sleeping-hags  (sheepskin,  34,  and  dogskin,  16) 50 

Shotgun,  pistol,  and  ammunition,  &c.,  spirits  wine,  hatchet,  and  rubber  blanket 50 

Total 182 

The  ice  of  Discovery  Harbor  afforded  a  good  straight  route,  the  ■"•w  being  light  and  the  hummocks 
few.  We  reached  French  Cape  at  12.30  and  the  west  side  of  the  harbor  at  1.40.  Here,  however,  we  were 
stopped  by  a  sheet  of  water  extending  along  the  shore  for  several  hundred  yards,  which  seemed  to  cover  a 
sheet  of  ice  a  few  feet  below  the  surface,  doubtless  due  to  the  action  of  the  tides.    After  some  reconnoitering 

we  got  started  again  at  *  and  turning  to  the  north  reached  shore,  which  we  traveled  along  over  a  very 

poor  route  till  we  reached  Bleak  Cape  at  2.50.     Near  the  sliore  I  noticed  two  pieces  of  drift-wood  which  I 
placed  on  a  rock  till  my  return. 

Bleak  Cape  is  a  long,  low  point  stretching  out  into  the  valley  known  as  "  The  Bellows,"  and  seems  to 
be  formed  from  the  debris  from  a  very  high,  rocky,  and  steep  cliff,  which  rises  abruptly  and  forms  with  the 
"  Knife  edge,"  on  the  west  side,  the  termination  of  the  valley  and  also  the  two  principal  landmarks  of  thi.s 
section  of  country.  At  Bleak  Cape  one  sees — looking  north  or  rather  to  the  west  of  it — a  wide  valley,  prob- 
ably two  or  three  miles  wide  and  quite  level,  walhd  in  by  high  and  steep  cliffs  and  mountains ;  its  apparent 
termination  is  probably  seventeen  miles  distant  and  bears  north  34°  west  (true),  according  to  the  reading  I 
took  with  a  prismatic  compass, 

I  started  up  the  east  side,  following  the  bed  of  a  small  water-course.  The  traveling  was  difficult  on 
account  of  the  number  of  small  stones  and  the  want  of  snow.  Along  this  water-course,  and  about  one 
hour's  travel,  or  2^  miles  from  the  cape,  I  found  a  piece  of  drift-wood,  apparently  a  knotty  sjjccies  of  pine, 
firmly  frozen  in  the  sand;  it  was  about  8  inches  [203"""]  in  diameter  and  3  feet  [914"""]  long. 

After  several  ineffectual  efforts  to  get  it  up  by  means  of  a  knife  and  hatchet  I  left  it  till  iny  return,  not 
wishing  to  add  to  the  weight  of  the  sledge.  Here  one  of  the  dogs  became  sick  and  unable  to  travel  and 
was  left  behind.  Shortly  after  this  I  crossed  a  low,  narrow  ridge  and  found  myself  in  the  bed  of  another 
creek,  one  that  runs  the  whole  length  of  the  valley.  After  following  it  up  some  distance  we  camped,  at  6  p. 
m.,  just  below  a  mass  of  jutting  rocks  known  on  the  English  map  as  the  "  Devil's  Head." 

Monday,  September  12. — We  got  up  at  7  a.  m.  and  started  at  9;  traveling  still  difficult.  In  fact,  except 
on  the  ice  of  the  bay,  we  walked  during  the  entire  trip,  frequently  having  to  help  the  dogs.  At  11  o'clock 
I  stopped,  intending  to  leave  the  sledge  and  push  on  without  it;  but  finding  some  good  snow  ahead,  about  the 
same  time,  we  continued  on  till  12.30,  after  a  half  hour's  rest,  and  there  turned  to  the  right  and  went  to  the 
creek  a  little  way  off.  We  cut  through  the  ice,  about  8  inches  [203"""]  thick,  and  got  water,  in  so  doing  break- 
ing the  hatchet  handle.  After  a  slight  lunch,  thinking  I  could  now  walk  to  the  end  of  the  valley  and  back 
without  the  sledge,  Sergeant  Gardiner  and  I  started  at  2.30  p.  m.  We  reached  the  "  apparent  end,"  before 
referred  to,  at  3.45,  and  took  a  compass  sight  back  to  Bleak  Cape,  which  was  quite  distinct.  Ahead  another 
point  shut  in  the  valley  some  distance  off ;  its  bearing  was  north  2j^°  west  (true).  At  4  we  started  and 
reached  the  point  referred  to  at  5.  Here  the  trend  of  the  valley  is  still  more  to  the  west,  the  next  "cape" 
bearing  North  57^2°  west.  Reaching  this,  the  most  distant  point  bore  north  30°  west,  which  we  reached 
about  6  o'clock,  and  at  6.25  were  about  a  mile  distant  from  a  point  where  the  valley  assumes  the  dimensions 
of  a  narrow  gorge  or  caiion.  The  valley  becomes  rapidly  narrower  from  the  point  referred  to  as  the  "apparent 
enil."  At  our  farthest  it  was  but  a  few  hundred  yards  wide,  though  just  below  it  widened  out  into  a  plain 
a  mile  or  more  across.     At  other  places  I  judged  it  to  be  from  )^Xo  y^  mile  across.     Sergeant  Gardiner 

*  Omission  in  original. — A.  \V.  G. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITIJN. 


125 


had  difficulty  in  keeping  up  with  me  on  account  of  his  knee,  and  I  judged  it  best  to  return.  Accordingly 
we  started  back  and  reached  camp  at  lo  p.m.  Through  the  gap  at  the  end  of  the  valley  I  could  see  just 
one  high  peak  covered  with  snow  from  our  farthest  up  the  stream. 

September  13. — We  arose  at  7.30  and  were  oflfac  9,  on  our  return.  We  took  a  more  direct  course  than 
when  coming  up  by  following  the  main  creek  to  a  great  extent;  this  creek  keeps  rather  to  the  west  side 
of  the  valley.  Between  Devil's  Head  and  Bleak  Cape  I  noticed  a  good  deal  of  what  seemed  to  be  a  very 
soft  bituminous  coal,  a  specimen  of  which  I  brought  back  with  me.  This  coal  had  evidently  been  washed 
down  the  creek,  but  from  where  I  could  not  ascertain.  We  reached  Bleak  Cape  at  2  p.  ni.  Though  the 
sledge  was  badly  worn,  and  the  road  ahead  would  make  it  worse,  still  I  determined  to  go  over  to  the 
canon  to  the  southwest  to  get  some  of  the  musk-ox  meat  left  there  by  yourself.  We  were  not  successful  in 
finding  it,  and  Sergeant  Gardiner  being  unable  to  keep  up  with  the  sledge,  and  on  oth"r  accounts,  I  left  this 
part  of  my  orders,  and  the  bringing  back  of  the  drift-wood,  till  another  day,  and  turned  towards  home, 
starting  from  the  shore-ice  at  3.45  and  reaching  the  station  without  event  at  8.15  p.  m. 

The  only  game  seen  during  the  trip  was  two  musk-oxen  in  the  opening  near  the  head  of  the  valley.  I 
approached  them  quite  close  but  did  not  attempt  to  kill  them.  The  only  tracks  noticed  were  those  made  by 
these  animals  and  some  wolf  or  fox  tracks  farther  up. 

in  the  accompanying  itinerary  I  have  used  the  English  map  as  far  as  it  goes.  Having  no  means  of 
measuring  distances  traveled  I  have  allowed  a  certain  rate  per  hour,  based  on  the  time  occupied  in  returning, 
in  estimating  the  length  of  the  valley. 

Hours  of  Travel,  Stops,  &'c. 

September  ri. — 10  a.  m.,  started  ;  1 1  a.  m.,  opposite  Musk-ox  Kiiy.     12.30  p.  m.,  passed  French  Cape.     I  p.  m.,  stopped  10  minutes 
to  make  skclcli.     1.40  p.  m.,  met  with  water;  slopped.     2.10  p.  m.,  fairly  started  on  land  again.     2.50  p.  m.,  I31eak 
Cape ;  stopped  10  minutes.     4  p.  m.,  met  with  drift-wood ;  dog  sick  ;  slopped  10  minutes.     6  p.  ni.,  arrived  at  camp. 
81'-lh=7h. 

September  12.  — 7.10  a.  m.,  got  up.     9  a.  m.,  started.     1 1  a.  m.,  stopped  for  lunch,  &c.,  55  minutes.     12.30  p.  m.,  stopped  at  creek. 

3h30"._55n>=2h35'n. 

2.25  p.  m.,  started  on  without  sledge.     3  p.  m.,  stopped  8  minutes.     3.45  p.  m.,  reached  "  apparent  end  "  of  Bellows ;  slopped 
12  minutes.    5.05  p.  m.,stopi)ed  5  minutes.    6. 10  p.  m.,  stopped  j  minutes.     6.25  p.  m.,  stopped  at  farthest  till  6.30  p.  m. 
3^  hours,  10  ]).  m.,  reached  camp;  no  slops. 
September  13. — 7.30  a.  m.,  got  up.     9  a.  m.,  started  on  return.     2  \>.  m,,  reached  Bleak  Cape;  stopped  5  minutes.     3  p.  m.,  near 
Bellot  Harlmr;  stopped  15  minutes.     3.45  p.  m.,  on  ice  some  little  way  from  land.     8.15  p.  m.,  reached  station, 
iih  15m  —  20'"  =10''  55"". 
Going  out,  13''  7'" ;  coming  back,  14''  25"'. 


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Readings  of  Thermometer  and  Barometer. 


Date. 

Hour  of  day. 

Thermometer. 

Barometer. 

Fa/ir. 

C. 

Inches. 

mm. 

Sept.  II... 

3. 00  p.  m. 

16.2 

-  8.8 

29-39 

746.  49 

7.00  p.  m. 

•35 

10.3 

29-36 

745- 73 

12.00  p.  m. 

17.0 

-   8.3 

29.40 

746-  75 

Sept.  12... 

7.  10  a.  m. 

20.0 

-6.7 

29.47 

748.  52 

11.00  a.  m. 

22.  0 

-  S-6 

29.38 

746.  24 

' 

I.  20  p.  m. 

19.8 

-  6.8 

29.36 

745-  73 

3.  00  p.  m. 

21. 0 

—  6.  I 

29.32 

744-71 

6.  25  p.  m. 

9.0 

-12.8 

29.11 

739-  38 

10.  30  p.  m. 

4.0 

-15.6 

29.44 

747- 76 

Sept.  13*.. 

7.  30  a.  m. 

35 

-IS- 8 

29- S5 

750-  56 

II.  15  a.  m. 

8.5 

->3-« 

29-52 

749-  79 

3-45  pm. 

II. 0 

-II. 7 

29.80 

756.91 

r.l 


*  Minimum  thermometer  during  the  night,  -\- 1°  [ —  17.2°  C.]. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  .servant, 

J.  B.  LocKwoon, 

Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  0. 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Gr.EEi.v, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  Acting  Signal  Officer,  and  Assistant  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  Commanding. 


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1 26  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Appendix  No.  23. — Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  on  exploring  Archer  Fiord. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  September  14,  1881. 

Sir:  You  will  leave  September  11;,  weather  permitting,  for  a  sledge  journey  southward  through  Archer 
Fiord  to  Beatrix  Ray,  thence  overland  to  the  westward  as  far  as  practicable.  You  will  take  with  you  Private 
W.  Whisler,  Eskimo  Jens  Edward,  two  dog  sledges  and  sixteen  dogs,  with  six  days'  rations.  The  object  of 
your  journey  is  to  determine,  if  possible,  the  existence  or  non-existence  of  the  sea  or  other  water  to  the  west- 
ward or  southward  of  Mount  Neville.  It  seems  to  me  quite  probable  that  such  water  exists  at  no  great 
distance.  Lieutenant  Archer,  who,  viewing  the  country  from  an  elevation  of  3,800  feet  [i  1 58™],  writing  on  this 
point,  says  that  "no  single  hill  or  mountain  was  visible  at  any  great  distance  to  the  westward,  while  mountain 
ranges  extended  northward  from  bearings  70°  N.  and  southward  from  72°  S."  Sir  Edward  Belcher  found 
islands  about  300  miles  to  the  south-southwestward  of  that  point.  Lieutenant  Aldrich,  in  85°  33'  W.,  found 
that  the  coast  of  Grinnell  Land  trended  south  as  far  as  could  be  seen.  These  facts,  in  connection  with  Sir 
J.  I).  Hooker's  discovery  that  "the  vegetation  of  this  meridian  of  the  polar  area  is  entirely  Greenlandic, 
showing  no  more  relation  than  does  Greenland  itself  to  the  floras  of  the  American  Polar  islands  to  the  west- 
ward of  it,"  argue  a  land,  and  to  the  westward  especially,  of  limited  extent. 

During  the  journey  you  will  keep  as  complete  a  sledge  journal  as  practicable,  and  will  make  a  detailed 
report  within  a  reasonable  time  after  your  return.  I  inclose  a  chart  of  the  country,  traced  from  Lieutenant 
Archer's  map,  and  such  notes  in  connection  with  his  journey  as  may  be  useful  to  you.  You  will  carefully 
examine  Hillock  and  Simmonds  Bay  depots  on  your  westward  trip,  as  on  their  contents  may  perhaps  depend 
the  safety  of  your  party.  A  correct  list  will  be  made  of  all  articles  found  in  good  condition  and  of  all  used 
by  you.  At  your  farthest  a  cairn  should  be  erected,  in  which  will  be  placed  a  record  to  be  furnished  you, 
with  such  additions  as  you  may  deem  proper.  Similar  records  will  be  left  at  the  cairn  at  Record  Point,  with 
a  copy  of  Lieutenant  Archer's  record,  the  original  being  brought  back  with  you. 

As  far  as  Beatrix  Bay,  travel  will  not  be  sacrificed  to  observations,  as  journeys  thus  far  made  show  the 
correctness  of  Lieutenant  Archer's  map.  Beyond  this  point  as  many  observations  will  be  taken  as  possible 
of  bearings  of  prominent  points,  of  courses  traveled,  &c.  Observations  will  be  made  when  possible  at  7,  1 1, 
and  3  a.  m.  and  p.  m.,  Washington  mean  time,  of  barometer,  thermometer,  wind  and  v/eather.  Near  your 
farthest  you  will,  if  the  weather  is  fair,  ascend  the  most  prominent  hill  in  order  to  examine  carefully  all 
points  beyond,  the  bearings  of  which  should  be  most  carefully  determined.  All  points  of  prominence 
should  be  given  temporary  names  only. 
I  am,  most  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A,  S.  O.  and  Assistant. 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  U.  S.  Army. 

(Two  inclosures.)  . 


Appendix  No.  24. — Report  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  attempted  trips  dozen  Archer  Fiord. 

Fort  Concjer,  Grinnell  Land,  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  September  2^,  i88i. 

Sir  :  Having  received  orders  to  proceed  to  the  southeast  extremity  of  Archer's  Fiord,  the  15th  of  Septem- 
ber, at  9.35  a.  m.,  I  combine  by  Private  William  Whisler  and  the  Greenlander  Jens  Edward,  with  two  sledges 
and  sixteen  dogs,  I  left  Fort  Conger. 

The  ice  being  very  good  and  the  snow  hard,  at  1 1.15  a.  m.  we  passed  Musk-ox  Bay,  arriving  at  1.30  p. 
m.  at  the  southwest  extremity  of  Bellot  Harbor,  where  you  had  previously  left  a  small  depot.  After  lunch- 
ing I  took  the  provision  and  travelled  overland  for  an  hour,  reaching  the  ice  of  Archer  Fiord  at  3  p.  m. 
Tlie  land  that  we  crossed  is  low,  not  rising  above  an  altitude  from  30  to  35  feet  [9"'  to  n'"].  Traces  of 
wolfs  [sif]  were  seen,  The  travelling  would  have  been  good  but  for  the  ground  being  barely  covered  with 
snow  in  many  places.     As  soon  as  we  reached  the  ice,  open  water  could  be  seen  in  the  middle  of  the  liord. 

[  then  followed  the  coast  as  far  as  the  last  point  north  of  Stone  Cape;  but  the  ice  being  to  |«V]  thin  for 
the  weight  of  the  sledges,  at  the  suggestion  of  the  Eskimo  Jens,  we  halted  (3.30  p.  m.j,  and  advanced  abouL 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


127 


200  yards  [  183'"]  to  sound.  In  places,  at  the  first  tocke,  the  tocke  went  throug'i.  This  ice,  that  c^uld  scarcely 
bear  the  weight  of  a  man,  and  certainly  not  to  be  sledged,  extended  about  401.'  or  5c  j  yards  [366'"  or  457'"!, 
getting  thinner  until  it  ended  in  open  water,  extending  from  the  middle  of  the  fiord  to  the  foot  ol  Stony  Cape. 
During  the  time  that  we  were  examining  the  state  of  the  ice  I  had  sent  Private  Whisler  to  the  shore  to  hunt 
for  the  provisions  left  there  by  the  English  expedition,  i875-'76. 

Leaving  then  the  two  sledges  on  the  edge  of  the  old  ice,  we  proceeded  towards  Stony  Cape,  over  a 
very  broken  and  rough  ice-foot,  being,  in  places,  ol)liged  to  take  the  side  of  the  hill.  From  the  Cape,  at  the 
elevation  of  about  400  feet  [122'"],  I  could  see  open  water  extending  northeast  as  far  as  the  view  could  reach. 
To  the  east  the  water  in  the  fiord  was  entirely  free  of  ice.  On  the  west  coast,  where  I  was  standing,  the  ice 
in  the  bay  between  Cape  Clear  and  Stony  Cape  was  solid.  From  the  top  of  Stony  Cape  I  could  see  that 
from  its  base  to  Kepples  Head  the  ice  described  an  arc  of  circle,  having  about  the  middle  of  Miller  Island 
for  centre.  It  being  impossible  to  pass  the  cape  we  returned  to  the  sledges,  and  at  one-fourth  of  a  mile 
from  tlie  unsafe  ice  I  struck  camp  at  6.15  p.m.;  the  thermometer  adjusted  20°  [— 6.7°C.]  above.  .Vfter 
cooking  supper  and  feeding  the  dogs  their  allowance  of  walrus  meat,  we  retired  for  the  night  in  our  dog-skin 
sleeping-bags  (9  p  ni.). 

September  16,  we  awoke  at  o  a.  m.,  having  passed  a  very  comfortable  night.  The  minimum  temper- 
ature had  been  10°  [  —  12.2°  C.];  .".nd  at  the  time  (6  a.  m.)  was  12°  |— 11.1°  C.J  outside,  and  40°  f-f  4.4°  C.j 
inside  of  the  tent.  After  breakfast  1  made  two  caches  among  the  rocks  of  the  coast,  above  the  ice  foot,  one 
at  the  place  where  we  had  found  the  depot  of  the  English  expedition  and  another  about  one-fourth  of  mile 
north. 

At  9  a.  m.  our  sledges  were  running  homeward,  reaching  at  1 1  a.  m.  the  place  where  the  previous  day 
we  had  taken  lunch. 

Following  your  instructions,  I  then  proceeded  with  one  sledge,  overland,  to  the  spot  where  musk-oxen 
had  been  killed.  Loav.jd  four  hind  (juarters,  and  at  1.40  p.  m.  reached  the  ice  again,  ^.topping  twenty  min- 
utes to  cook  and  eat  dinner;  then  resuming  our  travel,  we  reached  Fort  Conger  at  5  p.  m. 

OCTA  .  '.VV, 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon,  U.  S.  Army, 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry^  U.  S.  A.,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


i  vk 


Appendix  No.  25.- 


-Report  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood  on  sledge  journey  to  Depot  B  near  Cape 
Dccchcy. 


Fort  Conner,  Grinnell  Land,  September  28,  1881. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  render  the  following  report  of  operations,  in  pursuance  to  your  instructions  of 
the  24th  instant,  setting  forth  marches,  &:c.,  as  recorded  in  my  journal,  for  the  sake  of  greater  brevity  and 
clearness. 

September  24. — At  9.18  a.  m.,  left  station  with  English  8-man  sledge,  drawn  by  Sergeant  Ralston  and 
Privates  Biederbick,  Ellis,  Frederick,  and  myself.  Weight  of  sledge,  126  pounds;  weight  of  load,  20 1^^ 
pounds;  consisting  of  four  days'  rations  (51^  pounds);  Sergeant  Rice's  photographic  ai)paralus  (40 
pounds),  &c.     At  10  a.  m.  passed  Dutch  Cape,     At  11.15  reached  ice  foot  about  middle  of  blutf. 

At  11.47  reached  cache  of  provisions  near  Distant  Cape,  consisting  of  four  bags  hard  bread,  one  can 
pemmican,  one  can  alcohol,  one  ax,  and  one  ice-chisel,  weighing  386  pounds  total.  Stopped  eight  minutes 
and  started  again,  stopping  again  shortly  aflcrwaids  about  fifteen  minutes  to  rearrange  load,  the  ice-foot 
along  here  being  very  narrow  and  the  way  difficult,  necessitating  the  cutting  down  of  some  masses  of  ice  and 
carrying  the  sledge  boilily  over  others  and  over  masses  of  rock  which  obstructed  the  route. 

At  1.55  p.  m.  carried  first  sledge  and  then  load  over  a  mass  of  rocks,  about  one  hundred  yards  [91'"],  in 
view  of  Water-course  Bay.     Stopped  forty-two  minutes  for  lunch. 

At  4  p.  m.  stopped  fifteen  minutes  by  English  wagon  at  Water-course  Bay.  The  route  since  lunch  was 
much  easier,  though  being  constantly  (jn  ami  off  the  ice-foot  made  a  good  deal  of  hard  work. 


!'' 


'S' 


mnmmmmtm'mt^ 


128 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


! 


At  s  p.  m.  reached  Point  of  Rocks,  from  which  consideriiblu  stretch  of  coast  to  the  north  can  be  seen ; 
should  ciiU  it  the  first  cape  beyond  Water-course  Hay. 

\t  5.55  p.  ni.  reached  tent  at  Cape  Murchison,  depot  A,  and  stopped  for  the  night.  I  found  r  ,leep- 
ing-bag  here  (though  with  a  hole  in  the  foot)  and  five  blankets.  Spent  a  tolerably  comfortab:  'i(^t, 
though  the  lamp  was  unsatisfactory,  catching  fire  below  as  soon  as  the  metal  became  heated,  rende;  ','  the 
boiling  of  chocolate  difficult,  and  also  the  thawing  out  of  beans  ^nd  drying  inything  in  the  wa^  of  t  othes 
almost  impossible.  The  weather  during  the  day  was  fine;  the  farther  side  of  the  straits  (juite  dis'!  t.  I 
saw  great  quantities  of  ice  moving  south  all  along  the  coast,  and  got  two  or  three  glimpses  of  opo..  vater. 

Siflrm/ier  25. — At  «.2o  a.  m.,  got  u[);  thermometer,  —  9.5°  [— 23.1°  C.J ;  mi.imum  durii',  night, 
-i4.s°[--'5-8''C.]. 

At  7.35  a.  m.  resumed  :oui  ey  along  coast  to  the  northeas^  Traveling  good.  At  8.45  a.  m.  left  saw 
near  farther  sid'    r.f  St.  !    ^.  k  B.  v.    Slopp'l  three  m  lUtcs. 

.1  f;..5  a.  :.;.  f.'.vhvi  caciie  v)f  provisions  beyond  St.  Patrick  Bay.  E.xchanged  a  bag  of  hard  bread 
for  a  sleeping-bag  ■-M.t.Ti!,  £i;c;i' ;  stopped  eleven  minutes. 

.\t  10.45  ...  m.  i  '.  .  a'  ii!;i"e?i  minutes  to  catch  some  shrimps  in  the  water  about  middle  of  bold  range 
of  hills  forming  a  kinii  of  cape 

•Vt  12.35  P-  •"•  stopped  thirteen  minutes  in  a  bay  south  of  two  promontories,  the  north  one  of  which 
is  Cape  Heechey. 

At  I  p.  m.  crossed  head  of  bay  ;  stopped  about  ten  minutes  before  doing  so  while  I  hunted  a  crossing ; 
this  bay  is  much  encumbered  with  great  num!)ers  of  floe-bergs  and  ridges  of  snow  and  ice,  making  traveling 
very  ilitficult  and  the  route  anything  but  direci 

At  2.55  p.  m.,  at  depot  J5,  an  A  tent  pitched  on  a  slight  rise,  about  100  yards  [qi"*]  from  tide-water. 
Here  we  deposited  the  provisions,  ax,  &c.  The  whale-boat  is  about  30  yards  [27'"]  from  the  ten'. — as  far  as  could 
be  seen,  in  good  order  and  condition,  turned  bottom  up.  The  seal  lies  underneath,  buried  in  a  low-drift. 
The  coast  traveled  along  to-ilay  was  lined  with  great  nuniDers  of  floe-bergs,  some  of  them  30  feet  [9"']  or  more 
high  and  as  many  wide.  They  had  evidently  been  forced  ashore  by  the  immense  pressure  of  the  ice-pack 
in  the  straits.  The  ice  and  snow  along  the  shore  furnished  a  good  route,  except  as  interfered  with  to  some 
extent  by  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide.  We  kept  the  coast  except  when  crossing  St.  Patrick  Bay,  and  a 
slight  indentation,  this  on  the  north  side  of  the  last  cache  of  provisions  and  the  bay  alluded  to,  which  the 
men  named  Sunday  Bay  I  got  a  glimpse  of  open  water  once  during  the  day — ibout  the  neighborhood  of 
St.  Patrick  Bay — but  th^j  land  on  the  farther  side  of  the  straits  was  hid  from  view  by  masses  of  clouds  or 
mist  extending  upward  10  or  15  degrees,  and  which  I  took  to  indicate  the  presence  of  open  water  in  that 
direction.  The  sun  was  particularly  beautiful,  exhibiting  almost  all  the  phenomena  peculiar  to  his  appear- 
ance in  these  regions.  As  this  was  equally  seen  by  yourself  from  the  station,  I  shall  not  further  allude  to  it. 
Spent  the  night  at  Depot  B;  having  a  good  sleeping-bag  and  six  blankets  beside  a  rubber  blanket  and  spare 
tent,  which  we  laid  on  the  ground,  the  party  slept  more  comfortably. 

September  26. — At  8.05  a.  m.  started  back  to  last  cache  for  provisions  there,  taking  only  empty  sledge. 
At  9.57  a.  m.  stopped  to  rest  eleven  minutes.  At  11. 17  a.  m.  reached  cache.  Stopped  thirty-one  minutes, 
and  started  on  return,  with  'oad  weighing  483  pounds.     At  1.25  p.  m.  rested  fifteen  minutes. 

At  4.1 7  p.  m.  reached  depot.  Found  it  pretcy  hard  work  even  pulling  the  empty  sledge — comparatively 
speaking.  At  about  5  p.  m.  Sergeant  Rice  joined  us  at  the  depot,  having  brought  some  bags  of  pemmican 
from  the  station.  There  not  being  room  in  the  tent  he  and  the  Eskimo  Jens  slept  in  their  sleeping-bags  by 
the  boat. 

September  27. — Sergeant  Rice  left  on  return  about  6  a.  m. ;  his  dogs  disturbed  the  seal  under  the  whale- 
boat  during  the  night,  but  only  slightly. 

At  7.50  a.  m.  started  back  on  return  to  station.  At  10.20  a.  ni.  rested  fifteen  minutes  at  old  cache. 
.\t  II  a.  m.  reached  place  where  saw  was  left.  Rested  five  minutes;  then,  leaving  Private  Biederbick  to 
continue  on  to  depot  A,  between  two  and  three  miles,  with  the  sledge  antl  i)repare  some  lunch,  I  started  up 
St.  Patrick  Bay  with  the  rest  of  the  party  to  get  a  specimen  of  the  drift-wood  at  its  head,  walking  very  fast. 

At  II.  53  a.  m.  passed  inner  cape  on  west  side  of  the  bay. 

At  12,15  p.  m,  reached  tide  water.  The  tree  lies  at  the  present  tide  level,  a  short  distance  to  the  west  of 
this  point  and  about  fifty  yards  [46"']  from  foot  of  hill.  I  was  misled  by  one  of  the  party,  who  had  been  to  the 
place,  and  taken  some  distance  beyond  it,  so  that  it  was  not  till  12.43  p.  m.  that  we  reached  the  tree.    The 


\  1 


TDB  LADY  FKANKLIX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


129 


tree,  a  section  of  which  I  have  brought  back  with  me,  is  ajjout  tliirty  feet  [9"']  long,  and  in  apjjoarance  does  not 
vary  materially  from  the  specimen  now  before  you.  Its  smaller  end  measured  661^  centimeters  in  circum- 
ference. The  men  there  before  me  had  cut  off  a  portion  of  the  larger  end.  The  section  was  taken  off  just 
above  the  marks  of  the  ax.  The  tree  lay  half  embedded  in  ice  /  snow.  It  was  carried,  beyond  all  doubt, 
to  its  present  position  by  the  currents  and  tides.    There  were  1,0     inches. 

At  1.38  p.  m.  started  back  with  the  log.  At  3.20  p.  m.  re  1,1  the  sledge  at  depot  A.  Here  we  rested 
and  took  something  to  eat. 

At  4  p.  m.  left  depot  A  with  sledge  and  party.  At  6.37  p.  m.  left  ice-foot  at  Distant  Cape.  At  7.50 
p.  m.  reached  Dutch  Island.     At  8.34  p.  m.  reached  the  station  and  end  of  journey. 

I  found  the  passage  round  Distant  Cape  much  more  difficult  than  on  the  24th,  our  outward  tracks 
being  carried  away  by  the  water  in  many  places.  It  was  necessary  to  raise,  lower,  and  carry  the  sledge  in 
many  places.     The  day  was  overcast — snowing  slightly  at  the  start. 

The  articles  taken  to  depot  13,  besides  those  enumerated  already  (which  were  found  at  Distant  Cape), 
are  three  cans  pemmican,  one  can  potatoes,  one  can  alcohol,  one  box  chocolate,  one  bag  pemmican,  and 
one  sleeping-bag;  also  an  a\  and  ice-chisel. 

I  sent  back  to  station,  by  Sergeant  Rice,  from  depot  B,  two  haversacks  and  one  small  iron  alcohol  stove 
and  left  there  remains  of  ratio*  .  "  mrty,  /.  <•.,  about  10  pounds  hard  bread  and  about  10  pounds  of  lime- 
juice  pemmican.  We  consum*.:!  t\<  '.larts  alcohol  out  of  one  of  the  cans,  and  about  quarter-pound  butter, 
half-pound  coftee,  and  half-)     -.nd  ■        ilate — remains  ol  rations  of  Sergeant  Hrainard's  party. 

At  depot  A  we  used  .!.o  iVj  piiits  alcohol,  one  can  chocolate,  one  pound  hard  bread,  and  opened 
one  can  corned  beef  but   ;  v.  rioi    se  it. 

.    Very  respectfully,  y.    i  obedient  servant, 

J.    B.    LOCKWOOD, 

"ccond  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantiy,  A.  S.  O.,  in  command  of  Party, 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Oreki.y, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 


1 

■i  I 

!■  I! 


Appendix  No.  26. — Report  0/ Sergeant  Rice  on  sledge  journey  to  Depot  B,  near  Cape  Beechcy. 

Fort  Conger,  I/Ady  Franklin  Bay,  Grinnell  Lanp,  September  27,  1881. 
Sir  :  I  have  tlie  honor  to  report  that,  in  accordance  with  your  instructions,  I  left  the  station  at  8  a.  m., 
September  26,  to  convey  ■^45  pounds  pemmican  and  20  cans  extract  of  beef  to  depot  B,  near  Cape 
Beechey.  I  was  accompanied  by  the  Eskimo  Jens,  with  team  of  ten  dogs  and  sledge;  Private  C.  B.  Henry 
assisted  as  far  as  Water-course  Bay.  Reached  Cape  Murchison  at  12.30  p.  m.,  and  were  compelled  to 
remain  until  1.15  p.  m.  for  tide,  which  had  overflowed  ice-foot,  to  subside  and  allow  us  to  pass.  After 
leaving  Cape  Murchison  we  traveled  without  interruption  until  5  p.  m.,  when  we  arrived  at  our  destination. 
Found  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  party  in  camp  at  the  depot,  and  learned  that  they  had  just  arrived 
with  the  load  of  provisions  that  had  been  cached  at  St.  Patrick  Bay  by  Sergeant  Brainard  and  party.  Jens 
and  I  were  compelled  to  spend  the  night  in  sleeping-bags  without  the  tent,  owing  to  its  crowtled  state. 

Depositing  the  pemmican  and  extract  of  beef,  we  started  at  5.30  a.  m.,  September  27,  to  return. 
Reached  depot  A,  Cape  Murchison,  at  8.30  a.  m.,  to  breakfast.  Resumed  our  journey,  and  arrived  home 
at  station  at  i  p.  m. 

■  Geo.  W.  Rice, 

Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  j.  A. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

Commanding  International  Polar  Expedition. 

P.  S. — The  following  articles  were,  at  request  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  brought  back  from  depot  B: 
I  boat-stove,  i  monkey-wrench,  2  knapsacks. 
H.  Mis.  393 ^9 


m. 


\ ' 


130 


Trii:  LADY  FUAXKIilN  BAY  FAPKOITION. 


,    I 


1  )ati 

II 

Diir. 

ISaiimie 
liicha. 

cr. 
mm. 

Thermometer. 
/•ahr.        C. 

Remarks. 

1 88 

. 

Sept. 

24 

■S 

p.  m. 

2<).  63 

752.  .w 

-ss 

—  20.8 

7 

p.  III. 

29,62 

752- 33 

—8 

—22.2 

Sept. 

25 

7 

a.  III. 

29.70 

754-  37 

-6 

—  21.  1 

Minimum     temperature     iliirinn 
lli^;htl)f24tll,  — 14.5[— 25.S°6'.]. 

II 

a.  111. 

29.  63 

752.59 

I 

—  17.2 

,? 

p.  III. 

29.  62 

752-  3.i 

3 

-19.4 

Sept. 

2(> 

7 

a.  III. 

29.  62 

752.33 

-4 

— 20.0 

Minimum     temperature     during 
iiij,'litoi'2Slli,      II  [— 23.9°C.]. 

1 1 

a.  ni. 

29.  68 

753- «f' 

Tliermonicter  left  at  Mount  Beau- 
fort. 

.1 

]i.  ni. 

29.  63 

752.  59 

7 

p.  111. 

29.60 

75'.  83 

-3 

—19.4 

Lowest  temperature  during  clay, 

—9  [— 22.8°6'.] 

Sept. 

27 

7 

a.  111. 

29-  55 

750.  56 

0 

—17.8 

Minimum     temperature     during 

II 

a.  111. 

29.50 

749-  29 

night  of  26th,  —5  [— 20,6°('.]. 

3 

p.  111. 

29.48 

748.  78 

AppEITDIX  No.  27. — Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  to  proceed  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  Septemlier  29,  1881. 

Sir:  You  will  prepare  for  a  sledj^e  journey  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  leaving,  weather  permitting,  at  8  a.  m. 
September  30.  You  will  be  accomiianied  by  Private  Whisler  and  Jens  Edward,  and  will  take  two  sledges 
and  all  the  serviceable  dogs.  Rations  for  fourteen  days  will  be  taken  from  this  place,  and  such  other  depot 
stores  as  practicable.  Depots  A  and  15,  and  that  of  the  English  e.\pedition  at  Lincoln  Bay,  will  be  drawn  on 
as  you  may  require.  Although  your  recent  trip  to  Cape  Union  precludes  the  hopes  of  any  tidings  from  the 
'ycaniuttt-.,  you  .will  make  particular  search  for  drift-wood,  which  [lossibly  would  have  come  in  this  direction 
if  the  vessel  had  been  lost.  During  your  absence  you  will  lay  out  for  your  spring  journeys  such  depots  as 
the  state  of  the  ice,  and  the  condition  of  your  party  permit.  The  Alert  winter  quarters.  Depot  Point,  and 
Wrangel  Bay  are  indicated  as  suitable  points,  but  you  are  at  liberty  to  use  your  judgment  in  the  selection. 

Inclosed  you  will  find  for  your  information  charts  showing  the  coast-line  from  Cape  Beechey  to  Cape 
Joseph  Henry,  with  the  tracks  of  the  English  expedition  along  the  coast.  On  these  charts  will  be  entered 
your  track  and  camps  daily.  This  will  accompany  your  sledge  report  to  me.  A  careful  sledge  journal  will 
be  kept,  showing  all  details  of  the  trip.  The  condition  of  the  ice  in  Robeson  Channel  and  the  Polar  Sea 
will  be  closely  observed,  antl  carefully  noted.  All  bearings  taken,  and  astronomical  observations  made,  will 
be  reported  in  full.  From  the  Alert  winter  quarters  will  be  brought  any  records  found,  substituting  therefor 
copies  and  the  inclosed  documents,  to  which  will  be  added  such  notes  as  you  may  deem  proper.  A  copy 
of  any  addition  will  be  retained  and  furnished  me. 

Meteorological  observations  will  be  made,  when  practicable,  at  3,  7,  and  11  a.  m.  and  p.  m.,  Washing- 
ton mean  time,  as  well  as  on  all  suitable  and  important  occasions.  The  minimum  thermometer  at  Cape 
Betchey  (depot  B)  will  be  read  and  reset,  both  on  your  outward  and  return  journey. 

On  your  return  trip  you  will  bring  as  much  preserved  meat  southward  from  Lincoln  Bay  as  may  be 
practicable,  part  of  which  will  be  left  at  Wrangel  Bay  and  the  remainder  at  depot  B.  A  list  of  all  articles 
taken,  with  their  respective  weights,  will  be  furnished  me  prior  to  your  departure,  and  a  similar  list  will  be 
made  of  all  articles  brought  bac'-  to  this  station,  within  a  reasonable  time  after  your  return.  Your  sledge 
journal  will  be  submitted  to  me,  and  later  a  detailed  report. 
1  am,  very  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Grf.ei.y, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  U,  S.  Army. 


lli>ii)iiIiMiTrT"'^T^"''' 


THK  LADY  FIIANKLIX  UAY  EXI'KDITIOX. 


131 


ApI'ICN'DIX  No.  2^.- -Report  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  trip  towards  Cape  Joseph  llcnry. 


FoKT  CoNfiER,  Gkiwf.LI.  Lani>,  February  17,  1882. 

Sir:  According  to  your  orders,  tliu  2(1  of  Octol)er,  at  9  a.  m.,  I  left  Fort  Conger,  accom[)anied  by  William 
Whistler  and  the  Isskimo  Jens,  with  the  two  dog  sledges,  AnltHiwtti'  and  Lilla. 

Arriving  at  Cape  Murchison  at  1 1.30  a.  ni.,  we  crossed  St.  Patrick  I!ay.  Following  the  ice-foot  we 
reached  the  tent  at  Mount  Beauford  [Beaufort]  by  4.30  j).  m.,  pitched  our  own  [tent],  cooked  supper,  fed  tiie 
dogs,  and  at  7  p.  m.  went  into  our  sleeping-bags. 

The  3d  of  October,  rising  at  6  a.  m.,  we  broke  camp,  added  to  our  stores  the  supplement  of  provisions 
necessary  for  the  journey,  and  started  at  9  a.  m.,  traveling  on  the  ice-foot  towards  Cape  lieechey,  that  we 
reached  at  i  a.  m. 

So  far  the  ice  formed  on  the  level  beach  of  Shift  Rud<ler  Hay,  where  the  hummocks  and  paleocrystic 
floes  cannot  ground,  was  excellent.  North  of  Cape  Heechey  we  fell  in  with  an  ice-foot,  narrow,  broken,  and 
obstructed  in  many  places  by  heavy  pieces  of  tloebergs,  thrown  evidently  ashore  by  the  last  storms ;  for  since 
I  had  passed  iiere  with  G.  W.  Rice  the  state  of  the  foot  has  partially  changed. 

For  an  hour  and  a  half  we  travelled  through  the  winding  paths  of  piled  up  masses,  and  at  a  very  good 
rate,  considering  the  condition  of  the  ice.  But  by  12.30  p.  m.,  the  foot  coming  suddenly  to  an  end,  our 
progress  was  stojjped  at  the  formidable  Black  Cliffs,  where,  in  my  previous  journey,  I  had  been  forced  by 
open  water  to  ascend  the  cliffs  and  to  travel  over  table  land. 

r.cfore  me  stood  steep,  precipitous  cliffs,  dark  and  ragged  at  their  summit;  at  their  feet,  nearly  perpen- 
dicular, 'i'here  lay  catati(|ue  [chaotic]  masses  of  ruble  frubblc|,  not  in  motion  at  tiie  time,  but  seperated  \sic\ 
by  small  streaks  of  water,  and  resembling,  in  their  pointt<l  forms,  to  so  many  enormous  stalagmites.  This  ice 
lined  the  coast  as  far  north  as  I  could  see;  to  the  cast  it  formed  a  band,  stretching  about  two  miles  in  the 
straits.  Farther  still  to  the  east  and  southeast  the  pack,  or  rather  floes,  small  and  large,  of  all  shapes,  and  of 
all  dimensions,  from  the  rounded  bowlder  to  the  tall,  paleocrystic  floe-berg,  were  majestically  floating  to  the 
south. 

To  embrace  a  larger  field  of  observation  we  climljed  from  the  ice-foot  to  the  top  of  one  of  the  highest 
agglomerated  masses  lining  the  coast.  The  scene  was  magnificent  in  its  desolation;  but  we  were  in  the  im- 
possibility to  advance  a  step. 

I  then  retraced  my  course  towards  Beechey  Vulley  to  hunt  for  tlie  overland  route,  of  which  Cajjt.  Sir 
George  Narcs  iia\c  \sic\  fijreseeii  the  existence.  At  3  p.  m.  we  entered  tlie  dry  beil  of  a  .liream,  half  a  mile 
from  the  tent.  Its  direction  being  northwest  towards  a  lake  where  I  had  camped  in  September,  I  followed  its 
course,  in  the  belief  that  if  any  valley  existed  the  lake  was  certainly  the  receptacle  for  its  spring  waters. 
The  bottom  of  this  creek,  full  of  pepples  [pebbles]  and  rocks  scarcely  covered  by  snow,  was  so  bad  for 
travelling  that  we  reached  the  lake,  a  mile  and  a  half  distant,  at  5  p.  m.,  with  only  half  of  our  load.  At  7  p. 
m.  we  camped.  I  spent  the  morning  of  October  4  in  earring  provisions  at  the  top  of  a  steep  hill  overhang- 
ing the  lake,  and  about  1,000  feet  [305'"]  high.  On  the  other  side,  to  the  north,  stretches  a  valley  8  miles 
long  by  one-half  mile  wide,  turning  in  the  distance  to  the  northeast.  The  tent  remained  pitched  on  the  lake. 
The  travelling  was  so  hard  over  ground,  bare  of  snow,  that  at  6  p.  m.  only  we  reached  camp  again,  very  tired, 
and  having  only  advanced  part  of  our  load  three  miles  in  the  valley. 

October  5,  the  tent  and  the  rest  of  our  baggage  was  packed  on  the  sledges,  and  for  the  last  time  we 
ascended  a  steep  hill.  By  small  advance  I  reached  the  extremity  of  the  valley  at  5  p.  m.,  being  then  at  an 
altitude  of  1,750  feet  [533'"]. 

The  6th  of  October,  at  7  a.  m.,  with  half  of  our  entire  load  we  descended  by  a  very  steep  ravine  in  a 
lower  valley  running  nearly  at  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  opening  by  a  narrow  gulch  into  Wrangell  Bay.  There 
we  saw  two  ptarmigan  (for  me  the  last  of  the  season),  of  which  Jens  killed  one  with  a  revolver.  Then  for 
four  hours  we  travelled  at  a  rapid  gait  over  a  frozen  stream,  and  reached  the  sea-coast  on  the  northeast  side 
of  Wrangell  Bay.  Tliere  the  ice  was  solid,  but  extended  only  a  short  distance  from  the  north  and  south 
capes.  After  caching  our  load  of  provision  i)ehind  a  large  eratique  [erratic]  block  we  returned  to  the  tent 
that  had  remained  pitched  in  the  upper  valley,  reaching  there  at  4.30  p.  m. 

The  night  6th  to  the  7th  of  October  having  been  very  stormy,  with  light  but  steady  fall  of  snow,  I 
waited  until  9  a.  m.  before  venturing  to  start.  At  3  p.  ni.,  the  wind  still  blowing  hard,  I  j)assed  around  the 
north  cape  of  Wrangell  Bay  and  followed  the  ice-foot,  on  which  in  places  we  were  all  three  obliged  to  hitch 


i  III 


1' 


\  1] 

■'I  'I'J 


132 


TUE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXI»ED1TU)N. 


to  the  sledge  and  pull  between  enormous  blocks  of  paleocrystic  ice,  or  haul  with  arms  strength  over  hum 
mocks  and  ruble  [rubble]  ice.  Here  Whistler  was  ot"  excellent  assistance.  At  5  [).  m.,  being  scarcely  able 
to  pick  out  any  more  our  way,  on  account  of  the  dimness  of  the  light  thrown  by  the  moon,  I  halted  to  canii). 
The  place  was  certainly  not  good;  ten  yards  [9'"]  of  ice-foot,  sijueezed  to  the  right  by  the  piled  up  and  over- 
hanging blocks  of  paleocrystic  ice,  and  to  the  left  by  the  high  cliffs,  from  the  ragged  summits  of  which  we 
were  at  every  instant  threatened  by  the  fall  of  rocks.  Numerous  debris  around  us  jjroved  of  the  unsafety 
of  the  spot. 

But  here  was  the  best,  even  the  only  camping  spot.  To  raise  the  tent  in  the  teeth  of  a  northwest  wind, 
blowing,  I  should  think,  at  the  rate  of  20  miles  an  hour  [S.9'"  per  second],  was  a  dithcult  work.  Nevertheless, 
at  7  p.  m.  supper  was  cooked;  then,  trusting  to  fortune,  we  got  into  the  bags. 

Like  symphonic  [symphony]  of  nature  in  such  a  far  away  place  I  shall  never  forget ;  and  for  a  long 
time  the  noise  of  the  howling  winds  and  the  grinding  of  the  tloes,  twenty  feet  [6'"]  from  my  head,  will  remain 
impressed  upon  my  memory. 

I  was  sleeping,  when,  at  i  p.  m.  [1  a.  m.J,  Whistler  woke  me  by  rushing  out  of  his  bag  towards  the  door 
with  the  announcement  that  the  ice  under  the  tent  was  moving.  Happily  the  alarm  was  false.  The  concert 
of  nature  had  confounded  his  thoughts  and  misled  his  judgement.  The  case  was  realy  a  pardonable  one. 
Nevertheless,  we  kept  awake;  at  2  p.  m.  j  2  a.  m.]  cooked  a  hasty  breakfast  and  waited  until  4  p.  m.  [4  a.m.]. 
The  light  of  the  moon  then  shining  more  brightly,  we  packed  the  sledges  and  proceeded  north.  But  an  hours 
drive  through  heavy  paleocrystic  ice  brought  us  again  to  a  stop.  It  was  a  repetition  of  the  scene  of  the 
Black  Cliffs,  but  on  a  larger  scale. 

About  half  of  a  mile  north  of  Mount  Parry  the  narrow  foot  fornjed  by  the  heavy  ice,  piled  up  by 
tremendous  pressure  against  steep  cliffs,  had  been  broken  anil  washed  away.  We  stood  there  looking,  but 
once  more  powerless  to  act. 

The  wind  still  blowing  had  nevertheless  abated.  In  the  straits  all  the  ice  was  in  motion,  not  as  a  pack, 
but  in  broken  floes,  small  and  large,  covered  or  bordered  by  gigantic  floe-bergs.  When  two  of  such  pieces 
came  in  contact  it  seemed  as  if  a  fight  of  titants  [Titans],  rendered  more  terrible  by  prolonged  crashing  and 
roaring  sounds,  and  that  from  every  direction  of  the  strait. 

Pushing  further  was  out  of  the  (juestion  until  a  new  piled-up  ice-foot  would  be  formed,  and  that  by 
pressure,  against  the  steep  cliffs  that  were  now  grinded  by  floating  floe-bergs.  It  must  have  been  a  similar 
scene  that  Commander  Markham  witnessed  in  his  fall  journey  of  1875. 

With  reluctance  I  decided  to  return  home,  convinced  now  that  it  must  be  very  rarily  possible  to  reach 
the  Alert  winter  quarters  in  the  autumn  by  travelling  with  sledges  and  along  the  coast.  Nearly  at  the  foot 
of  Mount  Parry  I  cached  my  provisions.  Then,  at  the  great  satisfaction  of  Jens,  who  seemed  anxiously 
watching  the  repeated  assault  of  the  floe-bergs  against  a  narrow  strip  of  ice-foot  that  we  had  to  cross,  I  gave 
the  order  of  retreat. 

With  our  nearly  empty  sledges  we  hastened  t-nvards  Wrangell  Bay,  reaching  there  at  9  a.  m.,  with  driv- 
ing snow  .and  cutting  wind.     At  9  p.  m.  we  once  more  slept  on  the  lake  of  Beechey  Valley. 

The  8th  of  October  camj)  was  broke  at  7  a.  m. ;  at  9  a.  m.  we  passed  the  tent  in  Shift  Rudder  Bay  and 
arrived  at  12  m.  at  Cape  Murchison.  At  4  p.  m.  we  entered  Discovery  Harbor,  unsuccessful  in  our  attempt 
to  reach  Cape  Joseph  Henry. 

This  journey  has  taught  me  the  fact  that  if  for  spring  journeys  provisions  are  to  be  carried  at  Cape 
Henry  in  October,  it  must  be  by  travelling  overland  in  valleys  similar  to  the  two  lately  discovered.  Captain 
Nares  advised  to  look  for  this  inland  route  that,  says  he,  "must  exist,  and  would  put  in  communication 
Lincoln  with  Wrangell  Bay."  - 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant. 

Octave  Paw, 
\  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon,  U,  S.  A. 

[Address  omitted.] 


TUB  LADY  FltANKLIN  BAY  KXI'KDITION. 


133 


Fort  Conok.k,  Grinnkii.  T.and,  Fibruary  jo,  1882. 

Sr.EDOE   JOURNAL   To    WRANCKI.I.    HAY. 

Octohfr  2,  1881. — Left  Fort  Conj^er,  accompanicil  by  Wliislcr  and  Jons,  witi)  thf  two  (!<)({  sledges. 
Arrived  at  (.'ape  Murchisonat  11.30  a,  in.  Reached  Mt,  Beauford  [He:iii(<)rt|  l)y4.30.  VVent  into  sleeping- 
bags  at  7.  p.  m.  • 

October  3,  1881. — Rising  at  6  .i.  m.  wo  started  at  7  a.  m.;  we  reached  Cape  Reerliey  at  i  a.  in.  North 
of  Cape  Hcechey  fell  in  with  broken  ice-foot,  obstructed  by  heavy  pieces  of  lloe-bergs.  Tin;  fool  has  par- 
tially changed.  We  travelled  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  at  12.30  p.  m.  our  progress  is  stopped  at  the  Itlack 
Cliffs.  Caholicjue  [chaoti'J  masses  of  rublf  ''rubhlej  and  ice,  \:c.  We  climbed  from  the  ice-foot  to  the  to|) 
of  agglomerated  ice.  Magnificent  scene,  impossibility  to  advance.  Retraced  towards  Heechey  Valley. 
Reached  lake  at  5  p.  m,,  with  half  of  the  load. 

Oiloher  4,  1881. — Spent  in  caching  provisions  in  a  valley,  8  miles  long  by  \i  mile  wide,  'i'ent  remains 
pitched  on  the  lake.     Travelling  hard.     Advanced  part  of  the  loa<l  3  miles  in  the  valley. 

October  K^,  1881. — Packed  tent  and  baggage,  and  by  small  advances  I  reached  the  extremity  of  the 
valley  at  5  p.  m.,  altitude  1,750  feet  [533"']. 

October  6,  1881. — Starte<l  at  7  a.  m.  Reached  Wrangell  Bay  at  12  m.  Ice  solid,  but  extends  but 
short  distance  from  the  capes;  we  returned  to  the  tent  that  had  remained  pitched  in  the  upper  valley,  reach- 
ing there  at  4.30  ]).  m. 

October -J,  1881. — Night  very  stormy,  with  light  but  steady  ftill  of  snow.  Started  at  9  a.  m. ;  at  3  p.  m. 
(wind  blowing  hard)  I  passed  the  west  cape  of  Wrangell  Bay.  Followed  the  ice-foot.  We  were  all  three 
obliged  to  pull  the  sledge  in  places.  Enorma  [ous]  blocks  of  paleo>  .ystic  ice.  At  5  p.  m.  we  halted  to 
camp  in  a  bad  place;  wind,  20  miles  an  hour  [8.9'"  per  second].  At  7  cook^  '  supi)er,  October  7  cocked 
breakfast  at  2  p.  m.  [a.m.].  Packed  at  4  p.  m.  [a.  m,].  Brought  to  a  stoi)  at  5  ]>,  m,  [a.  m.].  Repetition  of 
the  Black  Cliffs.  All  the  ice  in  motion.  I  repeat  reaching  Wrangell  Bay  at  9  a.  m.,  .'iid  the  lake  o''  Beechey 
Valley  at  9  p.  m. 

October^,  1881. — Broke  camp  at  7  a.  m.,  arrived  at  12  m.  at  Cape  Murchison,  and  at  4  p,  ni.  entered 
Discovery  Harbor. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

OcTavk  Paw, 
Aitiiti^  Assistant  Surgeon,  U.  S,  A. 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  GRF.Et,v, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S,  O.  nnii  Assistant,  Commanding, 


rl'i 


n 


Appendix  No.  29. — Lieutenant  Lockwood^s  report  on  St.   Patrick  I  a /ley. 

Fort  Con(;i'.r,  Grinnkm,  Land,  October  6,  1881. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report  of  a  short  excursion  to  the  valley  to  the  nortli  of 
St.  Patrick  Bay  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  this  station. 

I  left  here  in  the  forenoon  of  the  3d  instant,  at  10.40  a.  m  ,  with  the  iron  sledge  drawn  by  the  party, 
consisting  of  Sergeant  Linn,  Corporal  Salor,  Private  Henry,  and  myself  We  took  the  overland  route  and 
found  it  very  difficult  for  the  lack  of  snow,  especially  the  ascent  from  here  to  the  "gap,"  which  occupied 
over  an  hour.  The  steep  and  rocky  bluffs  bordering  St.  Patrick  Bay  were  reached  at  3.30  p.  m.  The 
work  of  descent  was  very  arduous  and  occupied  two  hours  when,  on  reaching  the  level  of  the  bay,  the  tent 
was  pitched  and  I  went  into  camp. 

I  broke  camp  and  got  off  '0  tho  ni(i: ning  at  S  o'clock  and  reached  the  dry  bed  of  the  stream  in  the 
valley  referred  to  half  an  hour  afterwards,  but  fcun  I  on  reaching  it  so  many  stones  and  so  little  snow  that 
I  gave  up  the  idea  of  draggiiij;  the  sledge  up  the  valley,  more  especially  as  the  unironed  sledge-runners 
were  already  very  badly  worn.  So  I  started  viOi  the  party  up  the  valley  leaving  the  sledge  and  load 
behind.  The  valley,  propv,  ly  -pe.iking,  is,  I  sVu/.il.,  judge,  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  measured 
between  the  steep,  precipitou:  bluffs  or  niotmtaiiis  hemming  it  in.  It  has  two  levels,  .so  to  speak,  that  of  the 
stream  above  mentioned  aiui  that  of  lev;;!  mesa  lands,  from  fifty  [15"']  to  a  hundred  feet  [30'"]  high,  above  the 
general  level.    These  seem  to  hv.  washings  from  the  valley's  lofty  sides,  and  project  out  first  on  one  side,  then 


i  \ 


\  n 


\       ! 


It    : 


134 


TDP]  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


from  the  other,  like  the  mud  flats  of  a  river.  I  continuctl  on  with  the  party  for  three  liours;  that  is,  till  1 1.30 
a.  m.,  and  there  found  myself,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  lower  level  referred  to,  probably  6  miles  from 
the  bay.  Asccr.'iing  a  rocky  ridge,  about  midway  between  the  sides  of  the  valley,  I  took  a  compass  reading 
to  St.  Patrick  Bay,  which  gave  the  trend  of  the  valley  thence  to  this  point  139''  from  south,  or  not  ([uite 
northwest.  This  agreed  within  9°  of  a  reading  up  the  valley  as  far  as  could  be  seen;  that  is,  to  this  locality, 
t.aken  at  9  a.  m.  A  sight  un-siream  gave  the  continuation  of  the  valley  as  north,  within  2  degrees.  I  could 
see  no  valhy  to  the  north  from  my  elevation — nothing  but  a  narrow  ravine  inclosing  the  stream-bed,  and 
the  whole  party  suffering  very  much  from  a  cold  north  wind,  I  retraced  my  course  southward,  down-stream. 
In  following  the  dry  bed  we  passed  through  a  narrow  gorge  about  30  feet  [9"']  wide  by  50  to  100  1 1 5'"  to 
30'"]  high,  its  sides  vertical  in  many  places.  It  illustrates  glacier  action  at  some  jjast  period,  the  rocky  sides 
being  deeply  worn  and  furrowed.  A  narrow  stream  from  the  west  comes  in  just  above  this  place.  Much 
fatigued  by  our  walk  over  rocks  covered  with  snow,  we  reached  tiie  sledge  at  2  p.  m..  and  continuing  with  it 
down  the  bay  reached  depot  A  at  5.15  p.  m. 

The  following  liay  we  got  off  at  9  a.  m.,  leaving  spare  provisions,  &c.  at  thi  depot,  and  on  reaching  the 
English  wagon  dragged  it  to  the  south  side  of  Water-course  Hay,  leaving  it  on  the  shore  convenient  to  the 
ordinary  route  to  the  coal  mine.     The  party  reached  the  station  at  2.05  p.  m. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  ]?.  LocKwonD, 
ScconJ  Lifiifiiiiiii/,  Tii'iiity-thirtl  Infantry,  Acting  Signal  Officer. 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant  to  Cliirf  Signal  Officer,  Commanding, 


Appendix  No.  30. — Sergeant  Rice's  report  on  camp  equipage. 

Fort  Conc.ku,  (iRiNNti.L  Land,  October  &,  iS^i. 

Sir  :  I  herewith  respectfully  submit  transcript  of  readings  of  thermometer.  Beck's  Minimum,  at  the 
"Bellows,"  made  October  5,  6,  and  7. 

\\c  arrived  at  Bellows  3.40  p.  m.,  Wednesday,  October  5 ;  thermometer  was  set.  At  7  p.  m.  it  registered 
-18  [  —  27.8°  C.].  Thursday,  October  6,  at  7  a.  m.,  —24  [—31.1°  C.J;  .at  4  p.  m.,  —18  [  — 27.8°C.];  at 
4.20  p.  m.,  —20  [  —  28.9°  C.j;  at  7  p.  m.,  —25  [—31.7°  C.].     Friday,  October  7,  at  7  a.  m.,  —25  [—31.7°  C.J. 

A  high  northerly  wind  prevailed  during  the  whole  time,  which,  in  conjunction  with  the  low  temperature, 
affectetl  us  very  unpleasantly  when  exposed  to  it.  The  faces  of  Sergeant  Brainard  and  myself  were  partly 
frozen.  Sergeant  Brainard's  s';veral  times. 

The  buffalo  sleeping-bag  was  hardly  given  a  fair  trial.  Being  disai)pointed  in  our  expectations  of  finding 
rubber  blankets  at  the  "  Bellows,"  we  were  comjielied  to  pl.-ice  the  sleeping-bag  on  the  bare  ground,  with 
nothing  intervening  between  it  and  the  snow.  We  were,  the'efore,  atlected  by  the  cold  from  the  ground. 
Under  other  circumstances,  we  think  the  bag  would  give  satisfaction  in  every  res]  ict.  It  might,  perhaps,  be 
improved  by  covering  the  outside  with  canvas  or  sealskin  dressed. 

The  new  Hudson  Bay  sledge,  used  in  transporting  the  musk-ox  meat  to  the  ice,  gave  perfect  saiisfaction. 
It  became  considerably  worn  by  being  dragged  over  bare  ground  and  rocks,  but  we  do  not  know  of  any 
other  sledge  that  would  have  suffered  less  under  tlie  san.e  circumstances. 
Very  respectfully. 


Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

Commanding  Polar  Expedition. 


CiEO.  W.  Rice, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 


Appendix  No.  31. — Lieutenant  Lockzvood''  s  orders  to  attempt  crossing  of  Robeson  Channel. 

Fort  Conner,  Grinnei.l  Land,  November  i,  1S81. 
Sir  :  You  will  proceed,  weather  permitting,  on  Wednesday,  Novemlier  2,  to  depot  H,  near  Cape  beechey, 
and  attempt  crossing  Robeson  Chaiuiel  at  an  early  day.     .Seven  men,  hauling  the  eight-'.nan  sledge,  will 


TUB  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


135 


constitute  your  main  party,  while  Sergeant  Rice,  with  Jens  Kdward  and  a  dog  sledge,  will  accompany  you 
to  (-'ape  Beechey,  and  will  be  at  your  disposal  until  you  can  spare  then),  when  they  will  reijurt  to  Dr.  Pavy 
at  that  place.  Ten  days'  rations  will  be  taken  (except  certain  articles  largely  in  excess  at  depot  II).  from 
this  point;  and  on  leaving  the  coast  twenty  full  days'  supplies  will  he  carried.  The  food  to  he  used  will  he 
left  to  your  discietion,  except  that  enough  lime-juice  must  be  taken,  either  frozen  or  in  pcnimican,  to  allow 
an  ounce  daily  to  each  man.  However,  the  ration  to  be  consumed  after  leaving  this  coast  will  not  exceed 
the  following,  or  its  equivalent:  14  ounces  pemmican,  2  ounces  bacon,  12  ounces  bread,  2  ounces  milk,  2 
ounces  cranberry  preserves,  3  ounces  potatoes,  2  ounces  butter,  2  ounces  sugar,  i  ounce  chocolite,  ^  ounce 
tea,  -j^B  ounce  pepper,  y^  ounce  salt.  .  If  stores  are  found  at  Thank  God  Harbor  this  amount  can  be  increased 
from  such  store.;  at  your  discretion. 

In  crossing  you  will  take,  if  open  water  is  visible,  the  whale-boat  now  cached  at  dcr-ot  13.  The  boat 
on  your  return  must  be  brought  to  this  coast  and  safely  cached. 

On  reaching  the  Greenland  coast  your  permanent  camp  will  be  made  at  the  most  convenient  spot.  A 
party  will  be  sent  by  you  to  examine  the  boat,  tent,  and  stores  about  i}^  miles  east  of  Cape  Sumner,  while 
you,  with  a  second  party,  will  visit  the  observatory  at  Thank  God  Harbor. 

A  list  of  the  stores  left  by  the  Polaris  in  1871  is  herewith  inclosed.  You  will  please  verify  its  correctness, 
add  to  it  any  other  articles  found,  and  note  their  condition  as  well  as  that  of  the  whale-boat  left  by  tlie 
English  exped'tion  of  1875-76.  In  case  time  permits,  the  condition  of  the  shore  ice  around  Cape  Sumner 
and  towards  Gap  Valley  should  be  noted,  but  for  this  special  purpose  no  favorable  opjiortunity  of  recrossing 
the  straits  should  be  lost. 

A  set  of  oignal  equipments  will  be  taken,  and  from  November  5  a  party  will  daily  attempt  to  communi- 
cate with  you  from  Distant  Cape,  between  2  and  3  p.  m.,  during  which  hours  you  are  to  keep,  if  i)ossil)le,  a 
watch  on  that  point. 

As  you  fully  understand,  a  journey  across  Robeson  Channel  is  at  all  times  full  of  dangers,  which  are 
greatly  increased  at  this  period  of  the  year,  when  the  sun  has  long  been  absent  and  new  ice  tlaily  forminj,'. 
Although  this  is  a  later  date  than  any  party  has  e\er  trav.led,  even  liy  land,  in  such  high  latitudes,  1  fi:cl 
confident  that  your  sound  judgment  and  prompt  action  will  bring  about  all  po.ssihle  success,  wliile  knowing 
that  no  reasonable  chance  of  crossing  will  be  lost.  I  count,  too,  on  your  discretion,  whicli  will  constrain  you 
to  take  no  unusual  or  unnecessary  risks,  but  rather  to  retui  ,\  here.  1  atn  ipiitc  aware  of  the  possibility  of  such 
return  without  success,  and  should  not  be  surprised  at  such  result. 

If  you  succeed  in  crossing  you  will  on  youi  return  leave  all  articles  of  food  and  equipments,  not  deemed 
by  you  indispensable,  properly  cached  on  the  Greenland  shore  for  your  s|)ving  vvork. 

Meteorological  observations  will  be  taken,  when  ]iracticable,  at  3,  7,  and  1 1  a.  ni.  and  p.  m.,  Washington 
mean  time.  The  maximum  and  minimum  thermometers,  pr()|icrly  set.  will  l)e  Id'i  by  you  on  tlie  Greenland 
shore.  I  inclose  an  approximate  list  of  the  ti.i  es  of  high  and  low  water  and  ranges  thereof,  from  the  id  to 
the  isth,  inclusive.' 

Wishing  you  and  your  party  good  health  and  success,  I  trust  your  speedy  return  will  allay  any  uneasi- 
ness on  my  part. 

A.  W.  Greei.v, 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding  Expedition. 
Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Infantry,  A,  S.  O. 
(Two  inclosures.) 


Appendix  No.  33. — Lieutenant  LockwoocV s  report  on  attempted  crossing  of  Robeson  Channel. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnki.i,  Land,  Novemlter  10,  18S1. 

Sir:  In  pursuance  of  your  letter  of  instructions  of  the  1st  instant,  1  have  tlu'  honor  to  render  tlie  fol- 
lowing report  relative  to  an  attempt  to  cross  Robeson  Channel,  or  rather  a  recoiuiaissance  with  tliat  object 
in  view. 

The  l-arty  consisted  of  Sergeants  Brainard  and  I, inn,  Corporal  Salnr,  and  Privates  Cumell,  liicrderbick, 
Fredericks,  ;md  Kllis.  The  luigiish  sledge  used  w.is  loaded  with  about  fifteen  days'  rations,  tents,  sleeping- 
bags,  and  the  usual  eciuipment  and  a  variety  of  miscellaneous  articles  required  to  provide  against  contin- 


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136 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDIIION. 


i    ■ 


gencies  in  getting  across,  or  to  make  the  snow-house  at  depot  B  more  habitable — an  itemized  list  of  all  of 
which,  with  weights,  I  have  already  furnished  you.  The  iiotal  weight  (sledge  and  load)  was  1,050  pounds, 
a  trifle  more  or  less,  perhaps,  131^  pounds  per  man. 

November  i. — At  1  o'clock  p.  m.,  the  party  left  the  station  and  pulled  the  loaded  sledge  to  a  point  very 
near  Distant  Cape,  where,  leaving  it,  at  3.15  p.  m.,  we  started  back  and  reached  here  at  4.30  p.  m.,  where  we 
passed  the  night. 

Novemfier  2. — We  got  off  at  8.45  a.  m.,  and,  picking  uj)  the  sledge  where  left,  proceeded  rapidly  on  the 
way;  everything  satisfactory  except  the  light,  the  gloom  being  greater  on  account  of  the  thick  overcast  state 
of  the  sky. 

At  2  p.  m.  we  reached  Cape  Murchison,  or  rather  depot  A,  near  by.  This  place  I  consider  ten  miles 
from  here  or  half-way  to  the  snow-house. 

Sergeant  Rice,  with  the  Eskimo  Jens  and  the  dog  team,  overlook  mt  a  half  hour  before,  and  here  we  all 
made  a  halt  often  minutes,  drinking  some  chocolate,  brought  along  for  the  purpose,  and  filling  up  two  bags 
of  coal.  This  coal,  about  440  pounds,  I  put  on  the  sledge,  but  the  additional  weight  being  very  burden- 
some I  threw  it  off  again  in  a  few  minutes.  The  hauling  across  St.  Patrick  Bay  was  tedious  and  laborious 
as  usual  on  account  of  the  snow  which,  by  cor.cealing  the  trail,  made  it  necessary  to  "break  out"  a  new 
one  or  rather  follow  the  one  made  by  Sergeant  Rice  whi.  preceded  us.  We  were  two  hours,  less  ten  minutes, 
in  crossing.  At  6.30  p.  m.  we  reached  a  point  on  the  south  side  of  Shift  Rudder  Bay,  about  three  miles 
from  our  destination,  and,  the  men  seeming  much  fatigued,  I  took  tlie  Hudson  Bay  sledge  and  about  200 
pounds  (what  was  needed  for  the  night)  and  continuetl  tluis  to  depot  B,  very  much  to  the  disajipoinlment 
of  most  of  the  men  who  were  ambitious  to  pull  through  with  the  entirj  load.  But  thi.  indentation  of  the 
coast  here  is  very  similar  to  St.  Patrick  Bay,  as  regards  hauling,  and  I  judged  it  more  prudent  to  send  back 
for  the  rest  of  the  load  in  the  morning.  We  reached  the  snow-house  at  8  p.  m.,  and  found  that  Sergeant 
Rice  had  preceded  us  by  about  one-half  or  three-fourths  of  an  hour. 

Private  Ellis  complained  of  his  foot  hurting  him  a  good  deal  and  of  his  being  "played  out"  thereby. 
He  tells  me  he  injured  his  foot  by  a  fall  some  years  ago. 

A'ovember  3. — At  10.40  a.  m.,  I  left  with  Jens  and  the  dog  team  (seven  dogs),  and  at  i  p.  m.  reached  the 
coal  thrown  off  yesterday — about  100  yards  [91'"]  from  the  tent.  While  Jens  loaded  the  two  bags  and  started 
on  return,  I  walked  C  ing  the  ice-foot,  up  the  bay,  about  a  mile,  to  examine  the  small  boat  left  by  the  Engli.sh. 
I  overtook  Jens  ■  rcssing  the  bay.  Finding  the  load  very  heavy  for  the  dogs,  and  having  decided  it  imprac- 
ticable to  tai  ."  two  bags  of  coal  across  the  straits,  I  left  one  of  the  two  at  the  old  cache  on  the  nouh  side 
of  St.  Patrick  Bay,  and  continuing  on  to  the  snow  house  reached  it  at  4  p.  m.  While  I  was  absent.  Ser- 
geant Brainard  and  the  party  had  brought  up  the  English  sledge  and  load  left  yesterday  and  placed  the 
whale-boat  thereon,  and  I  made  some  other  pre[)arations  for  the  next  day. 

November  4. — About  noon,  having  everything  in  readiness,  the  whole  party,  except  Ellis,  whose  foot 
disabled  him,  left  the  snow-house,  with  whale-boat,  equipped  and  rationed  for  u|)war(ls  of  twenty  days,  and 
"headed"  towards  Polaris  Pron.cntory.  I  could  ilistinguish  nothing  in  the  gloomy  twilight  but  a  long 
stretch  of  hummocky  ice,  and  so  left  the  small  stove  and  coal  and  other  things  behind  tJiat  I  had  intended 
taking  along  had  there  been  more  water.  The  boat  being  28  feet  [8.5'"]  long  and  the  sledge  1 1  [3.4'"],  the 
bow  and  stern  projected  far  beyond  the  entls  of  the  lat'er  and  made  a  very  unwieldy  load  as  well  as  a  very 
heavy  one.  Our  progress  on  the  smooth,  level  floe  next  the  shore  was  correspondingly  slow  and  unsatisfac- 
tory. Every  little  unevenness  in  the  ice  lirought  us  to  a  halt.  A  small  piece  of  "  rubble  ice,"  about  2  feet 
[0.6'"]  high,  over  which  we  did  not  succeed  in  pulling  our  load  by  united  and  repeateil  exertions,  convinced 
me  that  it  was  impracticable  to  go  farther,  except  by  making  a  broad,  level  road  all  the  way  across  as  we 
went.  An  undertaking  of  this  nature,  in  the  daily  increasing  darkness  and  cold,  was  not  to  be  thought  of 
without  urgent  necessity.  Accordingly  we  returned  to  the  snow-house  after  an  absence  of  two  or  three  hours. 
Shortly  afterwards  Sergeant  Rice,  with  the  dog-team,  returned  from  Cape  Murchison  with  the  small  boat 
which  I  had  sent  him  for  in  the  morning.  About  6  o'clock  Dr.  Pavy,  accomi)anied  by  I  ieutennnt  Kisling- 
bury,  came  along.  There  were  twelve  in  the  snow-house  at  supper  and  eight  slejjt  inside.  This  structure  is 
now  quite  comfortable.  I  occupied  .some  time  after  returning  from  the  ice  in  adiling  to  the  height  of  the 
roof  and  the  thickness  of  the  sides,  and  making  some  other  imi)rovements — putting  slats  under  the  canvas 
roof,  &c.  The  sides  are  nearly  vertical  and  about  6|^  feet  [2"']  high;  the  diameter  oi  the  HoOi"  is  about  11 
feet  [3.6'"]. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


137 


November  5. — The  I'orenooii  was  occupied  in  preparing  for  another  attempt  in  the  small  12-foot  [s-G™] 
boat  brought  up.  Oakum  and  white-lead  were  stuffed  in  all  visible  cracks  and  openings.  Doubtless  we  passed 
over  others  concealed  by  ice  and  frost.  My  plan  was  to  have  the  whole  party — excepting  Kills,  sick — draw 
tlie  loaded  boat  on  the  sledge  to  open  water,  if  such  there  was,  or  at  least  as  fiir  as  those  to  be  left  behiml 
could  prudently  go,  and,  having  found  the  craft  seaworthy,  to  make  an  attempt  with  three  of  the  men. 
F.verything  was  prepared  accordingly,  baggage  and  rations  being  cut  down  to  the  lowest  limit;  the  latter 
weiglied  1 14  pounds.  We  started  a  few  minutes  after  noon  and  made  satisfactory  progress  (seven  men  drag- 
ging) till  we  reached  tlie  hummocky  ice.  The  sky  was  overcast  and  everything  indistinct  and  gloomy. 
Floundering  through  the  snow  and  over  the  ice-cakes  we  got  many  falls.  Soon  we  heard  very  distinctly  the 
grinvling  of  moving  ice  like  a  distant  roar  or  the  monotonous  drone  of  a  fly-wheel.  Some  of  the  men  said 
they  could  see  distant  floe-bergs  moving.  In  the  distance,  towards  Polaris  Promontory,  perhaps  two  miles 
off,  we  all  saw  a  dark,  indistinct  line,  which  evidently  was  open  water.  I  left  the  rest  straining  at  the  load, 
and  proceeding  ahead  over  some  very  rough  places,  crossed  some  wet  "  sludge-ice,"  about  fifteen  or  twenty 
yards  [14'"  or  18"']  wide,  and  found  myself  on  a  comjjaratively  level  floe.  I  had  not  proceeded  more  than 
a  few  minutes  on  this  towards  the  dark  line  referred  to  when  I  became  aware  that  tlie  ice  I  was  on  was  in 
motion.  I  imagined  the  "sludge-ice"  crossed  over  to  be  water,  and,  thinking  my  retreat  cut  off,  made  all 
haste  back,  but  found  the  '-sludge-ice"  still  intact  and  the  moving  floe  pressed  close  against  its  edge.  It 
seemed  to  be  the  boundary  line  of  the  fast  shoreice.  I  found  on  further  examination  that  water  aj)[)eared  in 
this  "sludge,"  somewhat  of  the  consistency  of  melted  snow,  and  I  could  readily  thrust  my  boat-hook  down 
into  the  water  beneath  almost  anywhere.  I  brought  the  party  and  their  load  to  this  place.  The  capacity 
of  the  boat  and  the  ecpiipment  admitted  of  but  four  men.  It  would  have  been  a  laborious  task  for  the  seven 
to  get  her  over  this  i)lace.  It  was  evidently  dangerous  for  a  man  alone  to  walk  over  this  sludge,  and  I  did 
not  know  that  the  boat  w.is  seaworthy,  but  the  chief  consideration  which  made  me  forego  any  furtlier  attempt 
to  ])roceed  was  the  increasing  gloom  which  made  near  objects  indistinct  in  the  extreme.  The  men  seemed 
heartily  glad  when  I  told  them  we  should  give  it  up. 

At  2  o'clock  I  displayed  the  two  signal  torches  from  the  top  of  an  adjacent  floe-berg,  15  or  20  feet 
[4.5  or  6'"]  high;  they  continued  burning  for  thirty-five  minutes.  I  could  see  no  lights  at  Distant  Cape,  and 
doubted  ours  being  seen.  The  snow-clouds  obscured  everything.  In  returning,  the  darkness  offered  a  greater 
obstacle  than  ever,  though  we  followed  our  outward  trail.  Ellis  hod  built  a  fire  on  shore,  by  my  order,  which 
was  (piite  an  aid  when  any  difficulty  in  following  the  trail  occurred. 

Nin'emberd. — Accompanied  by  Sergeant  Rrainard,  I  walked  ou,  to  the  moving  floe  of  the  previous  day;  it 
occupied  just  twenty-five  minutes,  walking  briskly.  Instead  of  the  iloe  we  found  open  water  stretching  from 
the  direction  of  Cape  Beechey  obli(iuely  down  the  straits,  varying  in  width  from  50  to  perhaps  400  yarils 
[46  to  366"'],  these  distances  constantly  changing  according  to  the  contour  of  the  moving  pack  on  the  farther 
side.  The  "sludge"  still  adhered  to  the  fast  ice,  though  there  was  not  so  much  of  it.  To-day,  as  well  as 
yesterday,  the  ice  was  moving  north  when  we  observed  it.  The  few  hours  of  light  were  occupied  in  this 
walk  and  by  the  party  generally  in  extending  the  tunnel  of  the  snow-house  and  moving  the  tent  and  stores 
alongside.  I  also  constructed  a  snow  pedestal  on  the  little  bluff  adjoining,  near  tlie  former  position  of  the 
tent,  and  fitted  the  telescojje  on  top,  thus  making  observation  with  it  uj)  and  down  and  across  the  straits 
more  satisfactorily. 

In  the  evening  I  made  arrangements  to  travel  north  next  morning,  along  the  ice-foot,  with  a  view  to 
gaining  something  by  insi)ecting  the  straits  and  the  land  in  tliis  direction.  Ellis  was  to  be  lel't  beliind,  as  his 
foot  still  pained  him.     All  this  in  the  event  of  the  weather  jToving  favorable. 

November  7. — The  wind  blowing  and  tlie  air  filled  with  snow-clouds,  I  decided  to  return  to  the  station. 
Ellis  determined  to  do  his  share,  notwithstanding  iiis  painful  foot,  and  stuck  manfully  to  the  drag-rope  till 
we  reached  home. 

At  10.35  ^-  "^-  ^^'S  B"^'  ^^1  'li'^^gi'ig  tilt-'  small  boat  on  the  English  sledge,  and,  leaving  behind  rations 
and  other  things,  I  thought  better  to  keej)  at  the  deiiot.  Our  day's  work  was  a  hard  one.  The  soutii  wind, 
aided  by  a  high  tide,  had  flooded  the  ice-foot  to  the  very  edge  of  the  steep,  rocky  slope  that  marks  the  coast 
line.  The  new  ice-foot  had  not  yet  frozen  hard  enough  to  bear,  and  we  constantly  broke  in,  often  at  every 
step  and  sometimes  to  tlie  knee.  It  was  but  seldom  jiossible  to  avoid  this  by  traveling  on  tlie  slope  to  our 
right,  on  account  of  tlie  alternate  dce[)  snow-drifts  and  exposed  rocks.  I  cautioned  the  men  against  frost- 
bite, and  we  ke|)t  on,  our  progress  slow,  though  our  load  could  not  have  much  exceeded  650  pounds.     At  3 


1 1 


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4  ,  '     " 

iN!! 


138 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  DAY  KXPEDITION. 


I  J! 


p.  m.  wc  reached  the  north  side  of  St.  Patrick  Bay  and  hghted  the  signal-torch  to  find  a  way  off  the  ice-foot. 
It  was  not  of  much  use  afterwards  except  when  in  among  the  hummocks,  for  our  old  trail  was  obliterated 
and  the  driving  snow  made  very  indistinct  even  the  nearest  of  the  high  bluffs  along  here.  It  was  impossible 
to  see  across  the  bay  till  probably  half-way  over.  Some  of  the  men  complaining  of  their  wet  feet,  I  halted, 
and  most  of  them  changed  their  foot  gear.  At  4.50  p.  m.  we  reached  depot  A.  I  pitched  the  tent 
adjoining  the  one  there,  and,  with  the  little  stove  brought  along,  we  soon  had  a  good  fire  from  the  supply 
of  coal  here.  Private  liierderbick  had  changed  his  socks  early  in  the  journey  and  afterwards  I  believe,  and 
had  kept  on  land,  generally  where  the  icefoot  was  weak,  and  yet  on  arrival  at  camp  his  big  toe  was  found 
severely  frozen,  giving  liim  a  good  deal  of  j)ain;  everything  was  done  that  suggested  itself,  and  he  was  put 
in  a  sleei)ing-bag.  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Linn  and  Private  Connell,  and  perhaps  someot  the  rest,  suffered 
from  frost-bitten  toes,  but  none  seriously. 

November  8. — We  had  breakfast  at  5  a.  m.  and  were  off  at  6.30.  It  was  found  necessary  to  carry 
Bierderbick  in  the  boat.  Here,  wrapped  in  a  sleeping-bag,  he  remained  till  we  reached  the  station.  The 
ice-foot  was  extremely  good,  and  we  got  along  very  well,  except  when  we  left  it,  on  two  occasions,  at  Water- 
course liay,  antl  floundered  around  in  the  hunimocky  ice,  unable  to  see  our  way.  We  also  encountered  a 
like  difficulty  in  the  long  stretch  of  snow  between  Distant  Cape  and  Dutch  Island.  The  bare  rock,  which 
marks  the  eastern  extremity  of  tiie  vertical  cliffs  forming  this  cape  and  over  which  the  sledge  route  lies,  we 
reached  at  8.55  a.  m.  At  9.50  we  were  on  the  ice  opposite  the  cape  and  at  11.50  at  Dutch  Island.  Here 
we  were  hajipily  joined  by  Private  Whisler,  by  whose  ready  help  we  got  to  the  station  and  ended  the  jour- 
ney at  12.30  p.  m. 

I  regret  to  say  that  I  recorded  but  few  meteorological  observations.  Being  out  so  much,  and  finding 
much  dilficulty  in  getting  accurate  readings,  jirincipally  on  account  of  the  darkness,  I  gave  it  up.  At  9. 15 
p.  m.,  of  the  2(1  instant,  the  thermometer  stood  at  —  12  \ —  24.4"  C.].  The  lowest  registered  since  my  visit 
in  October  was  —  28  | —  Z2>-'i'  C.J-  During  my  stay  at  depot  B  the  thermometer  ranged,  without  an  excei)- 
tion  that  I  recall,  from  —  11  to  — 20  [ — 23.9^  C.  to  —  28.9°  C.J. 

The  sledge  route  between  here  and  depot  B  is  very  good.  The  high  tide  referred  to  has  improved  it 
very  much,  though  it  ruined  it  at  the  time.  High,  rocky,  precipitous  bluffs  follow  the  general  contour  of 
the  coast  line  or  ice-foot  with  but  few  exceptions.  These  exceptions  are  changes  from  bluff  or  cliff  to  the 
gradual  sloping  mountain  sides.  The  latter  topography  exists  only  at  Water-courso  Bay  and  in  tlie  neigh- 
boriiood  of  Shift  Rudder  JJay.  Sledge  parties  always  cross  these  bays  and  St.  1  atrick  Bay  through  the 
hummocks,  in  order  to  avoid  long  detours.  The  floe  ice  is  also  taken  between  here  and  Distant  (ape.  It 
may  be  said  that  sledging  or  transportation  of  any  kind  is  ini])ractirali!c  along  this  roite  at  any  time,  except 
on  the  ice-foot  or  the  surface  ice  outside.  The  debris  from  the  cliffs  forms  an  inclined  plane,  extending  from 
al)ove  to  the  edge  of  the  sea.  Though  the  slope  of  this  plane  is  occasionally  such  as  to  allow  traveling 
thereon,  the  alternate  surfaces  of  bare,  uneven  rocks  and  snow-drifts  make  this  traveling  laborious  in  the 
extreme,  even  where  it  is  possible  at  all 

Very  resj'ectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.    B.    I.OCKWOOD, 

Second  Lieutenant,  Tuenty-tliird  Infantry,  A.  S.  O, 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Gref.i.y, 

Fi/t/i  Cavalry,  A.  S.  0.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 


Appendix  No.  2)Z- — ^''-  Pnvf  s  orders  for  journey  to  IVrangel  Bay, 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  \^MiV),  Nov.  mtirr  3,  1881. 
Si  I  :  Vou  will  proceed,  on  November  4,  to  depot  B,  Cape  Beechey,  taking  the  dog-sledge  Antoinette.  At 
d(  pot  B,  Sergeant  Rice,  with  the  dog-sledge  Li//a,  will  report  to  you,  as  soon  as  he  can  be  spared  by  Lieu- 
''■11,111'  Loi.kwood.  You  wil  then  proceeil  to  lay  out  a  depot  for  the  work  of  exploration  northward  beyond 
Caj.e  Henry  '".  the  comii;;  spring,  for  which  you  have  tendered  your  services.  This  depot  will  consist  of  peni- 
m^tan.  li.ird  bicad,  milk,  and  butter.  Such  ipiantities  of  these  articles  as  are  needed  to  insure  full  loads  from 
Cipc  Bexhey  norfhwar  1  will  betaken  from  tlepot  li.  The  new  depot,  to  be  known  as  C,  will  be  at  the 
m  ■-'■  no'i!ieil)  ■xiut  you  can  attain  without  endangering  your  safe  and  speedy  return.     You  will  also  leave 


h  i 


TUE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXrEDlTION. 


139 


at  depot  C  any  articles  of  your  c(iuipments  which,  not  intlispensabic  for  your  return,  may  be  useful  the 
coming  spring.  Meteorological  observations  will  be  taken,  when  ])racticable,  at  3,  7,  and  1 1  a.  ni.  and  p.  m., 
Washington  mean  time.  The  minimum  thermometer  at  depot  IJ  must  be  read  and  reset,  both  in  going  and 
returning.  While  at  depot  B  no  alcohol  will  be  used,  but  all  cooking  must  be  done  with  coal.  A  list,  with 
the  weights  of  all  articles  taken,  will  be  furnished  before  starting.  A  copy  of  your  sledge  journal  will  be 
transmitted  to  me  within  a  week  after  your  return. 
I  am,  very  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Gref.i.v, 
First  Lieutfiiani,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S,  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 
Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  U.  S.  Army. 


Appendix  No.  34. — Dr.  Pary^s  report  on  jaurncy  to  Wraiigcl  Bay. 

Fori   Congkk,  Grinnell  Land,  February  \ith,  1881  [2]. 

Sir:  According  to  your  orders,  Friday.  Nov.  4tli,  at  7.30  a.  m.  I  left  Fort  Conger,  accompanied  by 
Lieut.  Kislingbury  and  driving  my:;c!*"  the  dog  sledge  Lilla.  Without  any  difficulty  we  turned  Distant  Cape, 
and  followuig  the  ice-fot  t,  reached  Cape  Murchison  at  11.30  a.m.  Since  my  last  journey,  the  general 
appearance  of  the  floes  in  Water  course  Bay  is  not  changed.  On  the  north  side  of  St.  Patrick's  Bay,  after 
having  passed  over  excellent  travelling  ice,  we  fell  in  here  and  there  with  hummocks ;  but  alltogether  the 
road  could  be  considered  as  very  good.  At  (1  p.  m.  the  snow-house  (in  Shift  Rudder  Bay,  at  the  foot  of  Mt. 
Beauford  [BeautortJ)  was  reached,  and  we  found  assembled  the  party  of  Lieut.  Lockwood,  who  had  returned 
the  previous  day  from  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  cross  tlie  straits.  During  the  night  that  I  jjassed  very 
comfortably  under  the  tent  the  wind  blew  hard,  and  the  grinding  of  the  ice  could  be  heard  in  the  distance. 

Tliis  confirmed  my  belief  that  Robeson  Channel  closes,  but  very  late  in  the  fall  or  at  the  best  in  the 
beginning  of  winter. 

Saturday,  5th  November,  I  started  at  9.30  a.  m.,  leaving  Lieut.  Lockwood's  party  busy  at  work  preparing 
a  boat  that  they  expected  to  use  in  a  second  attempt  to  cross  the  straits. 

Following  your  instructions,  I  took  with  me  C.  W.  Rice  and  the  Eskimo  Jens  to  drive  the  dog  sledge 
Antoinette.  When  travelling  in  the  bed  ol  the  watercourse  that  em[)ties  from  the  lakes  of  Beechey  Valley, 
the  little  fox-dog  Gypsy,  ol  the  sledge  Antoinrtte,  began  showing  symptoms  of  maternity.  Being  then  but 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  snow-house,  I  tried  to  drive  her  back,  but  without  success.  Neither  coaxing  or 
whi[)ping  being  of  any  effect,  I  was  obliged  to  let  her  run  with  the  team,  but  unhitched. 


Now  the  steep  hill,  non 
without  unloading. 

The  snow  being  comp 
the  bottom  of  the  valley  (;i 
the  ground  was  swept  bni 

From  two  p.  m.,  hu 
(about  half-way  betweei 


of  the  lake,  that  gave  me  so  much  trouble  to  climb  in  October,  was  ascended 

ivelyhard  we  succeeded  by  double  manning  each  sled.    But  before  reaching 
0  other  side,  men  and  beast  had  gone  through  hard  pulling  over  places  where 
its  snow.     Nevertheles:;  travelling  was  better  than  in  October. 
t  which  we  entered  the  valley,  to  seven  fifteen  p,  m.,  when  we  pitched  the  tent 
angell  Bay  and  Mt.  Beauford  [Beaufort]),  the  weather  become  cloudy  and  cold. 
At  nine  p.  m.  the  s,      or  was  eaten  and  every  one  had  turned  in  his  bag. 

November  6th,  S  a.  m.  we  woke  up  with  the  news  that  Gypsy  had  increased  our  canine  stock  with 
three  heads.  Rice  li  ving  implored  mercy  for  the  innocents,  we  dug  a  hole  in  a  bank  of  hard  snow  and 
left  the  family  well  supplied  with  i)emmican. 

At  9.30  a.  m.  we  were  travelling;  and  at  12  m., after  passing  one  of  my  encampments  of  last  month,  we 
entered  the  lower  valley   n  a  vertiginous  descent  ilown  a  steep  ravine. 

At  4  p.  m.  we  reached  Wrangell  Bay  aiul  encamped,  in  a  snow-storm,  the  wind  drifting  in  our  flice. 
Monday  7th  November,  the  gale  that  was  blowing  all  night  had  scarcely  abated,  arid  tlie  moon  was  yet 
too  cloudy  to  travel  by. 

We  remained  in  tlu  b.15  until  12.30  p.  m.;  when,  hitching  up  one  team,  I  started  with  Jens  to  carry 
the  provisions  across  ti;.'  bay,  to  tlie  northeast  side,  wl-  -re  I  had  lielbre  started  a  depot.  From  this  sjiot 
close  to  the  northeast  entrance  of  the  bay,  I  could  scc,  it  a  very  short  distance  ahead,  the  line  of  deniar- 
kation  between  the  ice  and  the  open  water,  extending  as  far  as  the  misty  weather  could  allow  the  view  to 
reach. 


i.  1 


if 

!ii    'if 


\w 


140 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  sea,  at  the  time,  must  have  been  washing  the  feet  of  the  two  foremost  capes. 

I  may  therefore  venture  to  say,  that,  where  I  had  found  last  October  a  solid  sheet  of  ice,  the  waves 
were  now  rolling.  I  think,  moreover,  that  if  my  purpose  in  this  trip  had  been  to  reach  Lincoln  Bay,  it  would 
have  been  frustrated  once  more. 

This  storm,  the  winds  of  the  past  month,  or  the  floating  massing  of  ice,  that  have  been  tossed  through 
and  fro  in  the  channel,  must  have  undoubtedly  broke  the  ice-foot  in  many  places  between  Wrangell  Bay  and 
Lincoln  Bay. 

The  i)rovisions,  well  secured  behind  a  large  erratique  [erratic]  block,  I  at  once  returned  to  the  tent, 
having  been  absent  for  about  an  hour.  At  1.30  p.  m.  we  began  our  homeward  journey,  reaching  the  snow- 
house  of  Shift  Rudder  Bay  at  10  p.  m. 

On  the  way,  we  stopped  at  our  camping  place  in  the  upper  valley,  to  take  the  dogs  on  the  sledge. 

November  8th,  by  a  dark  and  disagreeable  day,  at  12  m.  we  left  the  snow-house  and  sighted  Fort 
Conger  at  5.50  p.  m.,  having  accomplished  the  object  of  the  journey. 

I  have  but  to  express  my  satiesfaction  \s/i:\  for  the  manner  in  which  G.  VV.  Rice  has  done  his  duty. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  oht.  servant, 

Octave  Pavy, 
^ef.  Assist.  Surgeon,  U,  S,  A, 

This  report  was  received  by  me,  February  17,  1882,  after  five  formal  requests  for  it  and  as  many  as  i 
dozen  personal  ones. 

It  comes  in  an  incomplete  and  discreditable  rJiape.  Dr.  Pavy  has  been  informed  by  me  that  his  reports 
could  be  made  in  French  if  he  so  wished.  I  have  not  deemed  it  proper  to  correct  the  errors  of  English 
therein. 

Being  defective  otherwise,  I  have  (February  21)  written  officially  for  a  supplementary  report.  I  deem 
this  indorsement  necessary  to  show  that  I  have  in  no  way  countenanced  such  gross  neglect. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieut.,  t,tfi  Cav.,  A.  S,  O.  and  Asst.,  Cowdg.  Expdn, 

Feby.  21,  1882,  Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land. 


ist  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

A.  S.  O.  and  Asst,,  Commanding ! 


Fort  Conger,  Gr.  Land,  Ft'by,  20,  '82. 


SLEDGE  JOURNEY  TO  WRANGELL  BAY. 

November  \ih,  '81. — Left  Ft.  Conger  at  7.30  a.  m.,  accompanied  by  Lieut.  Kislingbury.  Reached 
Cape  Murchison  at  1 1.30  a.  m.     At  6  p.  m.  reached  the  snow-house. 

November  ^th,  '81. — During  the  night  the  wind  blew  hard;  the  grinding  of  the  ice  could  be  heard.  Took 
with  me  Sergt.  Rice  and  Jens — Gypsy  symptoms  of  maternity — ascended  without  unloading  the  hill  north  of 
the  lake.  Pitched  tent  about  half  way  between  Wrangell  Bay  and  Mt.  Beauford  [Beaufort];  weather  cloudy 
and  cold. 

November  6tli,  '81. — At  8  a.  m.  news  of  Gypsy ;  dug  a  hole  in  a  bank  for  the  innocents ;  at  12  m.  we 
entered  the  lower  valley.     At  4  p.  in.  reached  Wrangell  B.iy  and  encamped ;  snow  storm. 

November  "jt/t,  '81. — Gale  abaied.  Remained  in  bags  until  12.30  p.  m.  Left  depot.  Open  water 
extending  as  far  as  the  view  could  reach.  At  1.30  p.  m.  we  began  our  homeward  journey,  reaching  the 
snow-house  of  Shift  Rudder  Bay  at  10  p.  m. 

November  it/i,  '81. — Left  snow-house  at  12  m.  and  sighted  Fort  Conger  at  5.50  p.  m. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

Octave  Pavy, 
Aetg.  Asst.  Surg,,  U .  S.  A. 

Previsions  left  by  Dr.  Pavy  at  Aft.  yrt^r)'.*— Ijo  Hi.  pcmmican ;  Jo  lb.  bread. 

Precisions  left  at  IVmnj^vt  Bay.* — 100  lb.  penimican ;  50  lb.  bread ;  7  cans  milk;  3  cans  butter;  4  cans  extract  beef. 


*  As  per  list  handed  nie  by  Dr.  I'avy  a  few  day.s  after  Iiis  return  from  Mount  Parry. — A.  W.  Greki.v,  I.l. 


mmsiamm*Km.immamtim,»i.'i>tmnj» 


Ill 


THE  LADY  FllANKLIN  15AY  EXPEDITION. 

Appendix  No.  35. — Dr.  Pavy^s  supphtiunlary  report  under  Appendices  2y  and jj. 


141 


Fort  C'oNr.F.R,  Grinnfi.i.  Lanp,  Fcbrtiary  28///,  1S82. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  to  you  the  supplementary  information  bearing  on  my  journey  of  the 
3d  of  October  and  4th  of  November. 

Journey  of  the  31)  of  Octorkr. 

In  this  journey  I  have  cstabhshed  two  depots.  The  farthest  one  north  (yet  unnamed)  is  nearly  at  the 
foot  of  Mt.  Parry. 

The  coast  being  in  this  neighborhood  of  very  uniform  appearance,  T  couhl'only,  to  my  jircvious  indica- 
tion, add  that  the  i)rovisions  were  cached  l)ehinil  a  very  prominent  erraticpie  [erratii:]  block  that  can  certainly 
not  escape  the  observation  of  any  party  travelling  along  the  shore. 

This  deiiot  contains  bread,  100  [50]  lbs.;  |)emmican,  over  100  [150]  lbs.;  snowshoes,  i  pair. 

At  Wrangell  Ray,  the  other  depot  (depot  C")  is  again  established  bchinil  a  large  block  of  stone  on  the 
northeast  side  towards  the  entrance  of  the  bay. 

I  can  again  adil  that  no  travelling  ])arty  can  mistake  the  location.  The  bay  is  comparatively  small,  and 
the  rock  that  marks  the  spot  is  the  largest,  and  really  the  only  prominent  one,  'I'he  depot  consists  of  pem- 
mican,  1 20  [100]  lbs. ;  [bread,  50  lbs.,  A.  VV.  G.j ;  butter,  3  cans ;  milk,  7  cans ;  extract  of  beef,  4  cans ;  snow- 
shoes,  2  pair. 

The  list  of  provisions  that  were  to  be  taken  from  depot  B  was  made  before  leaving  Fort  Conger,  •  vi  .3 
in  your  possession. 

On  my  return  at  Shift  Rudder  Bay  I  left  at  dei)()t  B  three  quarters  of  a  gallon  of  spirit  (.f  wine,  ten  to 
twelve  pounds  of  lime-juice  pemmican,  and  a  15  lbs,  can  of  English  potatoes,  from  which  a  very  small 
quantity  had  be  n  tnl.o. 

At  depot  I;  ::!>  mi.'imum  self  registring  thermometer,  set  by  the  previous  party  (registered  minimum) 
read  minus  15"  [  —  26.1°  C.j  the  3rd  of  October. 

I  will  add  that  during  this  journey  at  no  time  and  at  no  place  I  have  seen  Robeson's  Channel  in  any 
favorable  state  of  navigation. 

Meteorological  observations,  October. 


I< 


\  II 


m 


Dale. 

Hour  of 
day. 

Temperature . 

Wind. 

Fahr. 

C. 

3 

7  p.m. 

10° 

-23-  3° 

NE. 

4 

7  a.  m. 

—  10.8 

-23.8 

NE. 

4 

7  1).  m. 

-•5 

—26.1 

t'aliii. 

5 

7  a.  m. 

-12.4 

-24.7 

Calm. 

5 

6  p.  m. 

— II. 0 

23.9 

N. 

6 

8  a.  m. 

-'3S 

—25.0 

NE.  blowing. 

6 

7  p.  m. 

—10.  2 

-234 

NE.  blowing. 

7 

6  a.  m. 

-  3-5 

-19.7 

NE.  blowing. 

7 

8  p.  m. 

+  1.9 

-16.7 

NE.  blowing. 

Magnetical  bearings  correspond  with  the  stations  marked  on  the  map.* 

At  station  A,  B  reads  289";  at  station  B,  station  A  reads  108"  ,station  C  reads  295°;  at  station  C,  station 
B  reads  117°,  station  D  reads  343°;  at  station  D,  station  C  reads  162°. 

Journey  of  November  4TH. 


List  of  articles  left  at  depot  C  :  Pemmican,  100  lbs.;  bread,  60  lbs.;  butter,  8  cans;  milk,  8  cans. 
The  7th  of  November  the  minimum  thermometer  read  at  the  snowhouse,  in  Shift  Rudder  Bay,  ■ 
[—37.2°  C.].     [At  that  time  so  reading — A.  W.  G.] 


35° 


•Map  omitted  as  being  unimportant,  being  traced  copy  of  English  map  furnished  by  me  to  Dr.  Pavy. — A.  W.G.,  i^/. 


142 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


In  this  trip  at  no  time  the  straits  were  navigatable. 

Having  not  aquired  yet  enough  practical  experience  to  write  about  the  contested  question  of  the  formar 

tion  of  paleocrystic  ice,  I  thought  judicious,  for  the  present,  to  dismiss  the  subject  from  my  report. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant, 

OcTA/E  Paw, 

Act,  Asst,  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 


Lhi  of  pravhions  at  depot  B ,  Nin\  "jth,  1881. 


1  box  potatoes. 

2  cms  potatoes. 

I  box  l>akeil  beans. 
18  cms  IjakccI  licans. 

1  box  corned  beef. 
36  cans  Cornell  l)eef. 

•  I  sack  for  llrcenlaml  coast. 

*l  bag,  contents  as  follows :  ColTco,  7  lbs.;  chocol.-Uc,  7  lbs.; 
salt,  6  lbs.;  pepper,  I  can;  wicking,  J  lbs.;  corned  beef, 
locan;  roast  beef,  4cans;  condensed  milk,  f  16  can;  baked 
beans,  16  can;  potatoes,  12  can;  cranberry,  10  can;  but- 
ter, 5  can;  soup,  5  can;  sausage,  J  can;  sugar,  48  lbs. ;  tea, 
2  lbs.;  con.  eggs,  j  cans;  damsons,  j  cans. 

Box  containing  tea,  i^  full. 

4  boxes  cartridges,  cal.  45. 

2  boxes  pepper  (y)  ?  pajier  pack.ige  [leather. — A.  W.  G.] 

I  bag  containing  extract  beef  and  chocolate  (packages  .//DiD/rt/c, 
broken  for  l-t.  Lockwood.) 


1  can  coffee. 

I  box  alcohol  (used  from). 

I  box  (can-coff«e). 

I  box  alcohol. 

I  iirl.  i)ilijt  brea<l. 

7  barrel  bread  [.said  to  be  one  barrel. — A.  W.  G.]. 

5  bags  bread. 

1  box  alcohol. 

I  box  onions. 

I  sack  plain  pemmican. 

4  cans  lime  juice  pennnican. 

I  bag  small,  louse  pemmican,  estimated  15  lbs, 

I  barrel  sugar,  partly  full. 

1 2  cans  butter. 

I  coil  rope. 

I  piece  leather. 

I  sack  bird  bread. 


V    1 


Appendix  No.  36. — Lieutenant  Locku<ood\%  orders  fo-  preliminary  journey  to  Cape  Becchey. 

Fort  Coxcer,  Grinnell  Land,  Fihiuary  18,  1882. 
Sui,  You  will  proceed  at  8  a.  m.,  February  19  (unless  the  temperature  sinks  below  —50"  [—45.6"  C.|  or 
the  wer>  Ji  t  i.s  threatening),  to  depot  B,  near  Cape  Becchey,  to  ascertain  if  the  condition  of  the  ice  in  Robeson 
Channel  \. ill  permit  1.)^  a  speedy  and  satisfactory  crossing  to  the  Greenland  coast.  You  will  take  the  dug 
sledge  Antoiiuttt,  with  its  team,  and  will  be  accotiipanied  by  Sergeant  Brainard  and  the  Eskimo  Frederick. 
Food  for  the  dogs  for  five  days  will  be  carried,  and  such  extra  supplies  for  the  de])Ot  as  can  be  taken  without 
seriou.sly  impeding  your  progress.  Any  jjortion  of  supplies  so  taken  can  be  cached  en  route  at  your  dis- 
cretion. 

In  case  of  fresh  wind  being  experienced  this  side  of  depot  A,  you  will  return  at  once  to  the  station,  as 
such  exposure,  with  the  present  low  temperature  —43"  [  —  41.7'  C],  with  the  sun  yet  absent,  is  deemed  too 
dangerous  to  be  encountered  except  in  an  emergency.  The  details  of  the  trip,  otherwise  than  as  above 
mentioned,  are  left  to  your  discretion, 

A  brief  sledge  journal  will  be  kept,  and  a  copy  thereof  submitted  on  your  return,  with  such  other  reports 
as  you  find  necessary. 

The  minimum  thermometer  at  depot  B  is  to  be  read  on  your  arrival,  and  both  the  actual  and  regis- 
tered temperature  noted.  The  thermometers  will  be  read  at  even  hours  at  such  times  as  are  convenient, 
and  will  be  set  on  your  leaving  the  station. 

Care  will  be  taken  to  avoid  over  exertion,  and  to  remedy  any  frost-bites  in  their  incipiency.  The  foot- 
gear must  be  changed  nightly,  especially  if  circumstances  oblige  you  to  camj)  at  depot  A. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
Fi^st  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A,  S.  O,  ard  Assistant, 

Commanding  Expedition, 
Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Infantry,  A,  S.  O. 


*[l.t.  T/Jckwood  states  that  the  contents  of  the  above  sacks  comimse  the  same  articles, 
t[lS  in  original  memorandum. — A.  W.  G.] 


.,  are  dujilicatcs. — A.  W.  G.] 


mitwii'rti  ■***■* 


ii 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  ]?AY  EXPEDITION. 


143 


Appendix  No.  37. — Lieulenant  Lockwood'' s  report  on  joiiyury  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  j6. 

Fort  CoNr.r.R,  Grinnei.i,  Land,  February  24,  1882. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor,  in  compliance  with  your  letter  of  instructions  of  February  18,  to  render  the 
following  transcript  of  journal  during  my  recent  trij)  to  depot  I>,  made  for  the  purpose  of  insi)ecting  the  ice 
of  the  straits  in  that  vicinity,  with  a  view  of  finding  a  satisfactory  crossing  to  Greenland.  The  party  consisted 
of  Sergeant  D.  L.  lirainard,  the  Eskimo  Frederick,  and  myself,  a  dog  sledge  and  eight  dogs,  rations,  dog 
food,  &c.,  for  five  days,  as  per  memoranda  already  submitted.  No  tent  or  sleeping-bags  were  taken,  as  each 
night  was  to  be  spent  at  depot  IJ. 

February  19. — Party  left  station  at  8.30  a.  m.  Reached  depot  A,  near  Cape  Murchison,  at  1 1.30  a.  m., 
and  dc[)ot  15,  near  Cape  licechey,  at  2.40  p.  m.  Weather  during  the  day  clear  and  cold,  very  little  wind,  or 
none  at  all.  The  ice-foot  from  station  to  ilepot  IJ,  and  the  traveling  generally  is  excellent.  The  snow  tliis 
side  of  Distant  Cape,  at  Water-course,  St.  Patrick,  and  Shift  Rudder  Hays,  where  the  route  is  on  the  ice-tloe 
instead  of  the  ice-foot,  is  packed  hard  and  has  few  inequalities.  The  low  temperature  just  now  causes  a 
good  deal  of  friction,  making  the  sledge  drag  with  difficulty;  it  was  quite  noticeable  to-day.  The  lent  at 
depot  A  is  down;  otherwise  everything  there  seems  /;/  itatu  ijtio.  The  snow  at  depot  15  has  formed  :i  drift, 
reaching  from  tlu'  toj)  of  the  little  bluff  just  north  of  the  snow  house  to  some  ilistance  to  the  sou'h  of  it — 
perliaps  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  [14  or  i8"'j;  consecpiently  the  snow  house  and  boat  were  comi)letely  con- 
cealed; the  tent  the  same,  excepting  the  ridge  and  a  foot  below  it.  There  is  at  least  2  feet  [■(•"■'■]  of  snow 
on  the  roof  of  the  snow  house.  In  digging  for  the  entrance  of  the  tunnel  through  this  snow,  packed  like  slate, 
the  thermometer  was  unfortunately  broken  before  it  was  discovered.  Some  snow  found  inside  of  tiie  snow 
house,  having  drifted  through  the  small  orifice  adjoining  the  stovepipe.  No  tracks  of  wild  animals  noticed, 
and  none  evidently  had  visited  the  jjlace. 

Februaiy  20. — We  all  slept  late  this  morning.  I  myself  passed  a  cold  night,  ow  ing  jtartly  to  the  bed- 
ding and  i^artly  to  the  hole  in  the  roof  adjoining  the  stovepipe.  This  last  has  been  remedied  now.  Breakfast 
at  II,  after  which  Frederick  was  sent  back  with  sledge  to  vicinity  (jf  St.  Patrick  Hay  after  bag  of  coal  left 
there  since  la?.t  fall.  At  12.30  Sergeant  Ikainard  and  I  started  out  on  the  ice  of  the  straits  and  walked  in  a 
general  direction  towards  Polaris  Promontory  till  2.. 20,  when  we  retraced  our  steps  and  reached  the  snow 
house  a  little  after  4.  The  ice  hummocks  and  rubble-ice,  covered  with  snow,  extends  from  the  shore  some 
distance  through;  beyond  it  level  floes  exist  as  far  as  can  be  seen.  I  did  not  feel  satisfied  with  it  as  a  route 
for  sledge, 

February  z\. — Breakfast  at  8  o'clock.  At  9.^0  Sergeant  Brainard  and  I  started  again  on  the  straits, 
taking  a  direction  from  the  snow  house  more  to  the  north.  We  encountered  the  level  Hoe-ice  sooner,  but 
from  ai)i)earances  a  better  crossing  seemed  to  be  ofleretl  from  Cape  Heechey ;  so,  on  my  return,  taking  Fred- 
crick  and  his  team,  we  proceeded  to  that  place,  reaching  it  in  an  iiour  and  ten  minutes,  i.  e.,  at  12.10.  We 
got  a  good  view  from  the  sloping  side  of  the  cape,  and  then  started  out  on  the  straits.  After  traversing  a 
distance  hardly  more  than  200  yards  [about  180"']  in  a  straight  line  the  level  tloe-ice  was  encouTitered, 
On  its  hard  covering  of  snow  we  traveleil  along  (juite  rapidly  till  we  were  an  hour's  ride  from  the  land 
(directly  across).  From  the  toj)  of  a  hummock  a  good  view  ahead  showed  the  same  ciiaracter  of  ice  as  far 
as  could  be  seen,  and  assured  me  that  the  best  crossing  of  the  straits  is  from  Cajje  Beechey.  Od  our  return 
we  found  it  very  cold.     We  reached  the  snow  house  again  at  3.30  p.  m. 

February  22. — Left  the  snow  house  at  10  a.  m.,  and  reached  the  station,  without  event,  at  2.45. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  15.  Lockwood, 
Second  Lii  uienanf,  Tiveuty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  0% 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  GreelYj 

Fifth  Cavaliy,  A,  S.  0.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 


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144 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  JiAY  EXPEDITION. 


Appendix  No.  38. — Liculcnanl  Lockivood^  s  orders  for  journey  to  Thank  (iod  Harbor. 


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Fort  Conger,  Gkinnki.i,  Land,  February  28,  1882. 

Sir;  Weather  permitting,  you  will  leave  this  station  at  8  a.  ni.,  March  i,  for  a  trip  to  the  Greenland 
coast.  You  will  take  the  dog-sledge  AnloiiictU  and  will  be  acconiiianiud  by  Sergeants  lirainard  and  Jewel!, 
and  the  Eskimo,  Frederick  T.  Christiansen.  Private  Long,  with  dog-sledge  Lilla  and  F.skimo  Jens  Edwards, 
will  leave  at  the  same  time  with  sui)plies  for  depot  1$,  near  Cape  Ileet  hey,  and  will  be  under  your  orders 
until  directed  by  you  to  return.  Ten  days'  allowance  of  provisions,  fuel,  and  dog  food  for  your  party  will  be 
taken  from  here,  which  will  be  supplemented  by  such  addition  from  dej^ot  IJ  as  can  be  carried  without 
materially  impeding  your  progress  across  Robeson  Channel. 

Your  first  duty  on  the  Greenland  coast  will  be  to  visit  the  observatory  at  Thank  God  Harbor,  in  order 
to  ascertain  exactly  what  supplies  are  available  for  sludge  parties.  A  list  of  articles  left  !)y  the  J'<>/(iris 
expedition  has  already  been  furnished  you.  It  is  important  that  the  boat  camp,  in  ravine  about  one  mile  east 
of  Cape  Sumner,  be  visited,  and  the  condition  of  the  whale-boat  be  noted. 

While  it  is  very  desirable  that  the  condition  of  the  ice  from  the  boat  camp  across  Newman  l!ay  to  Gap 
Valley  should  be  examined,  and  that  you  should  return  to  Cape  IJeechey  and  di.ect  from  Cape  lirevoort,  it 
is  left  to  your  judgment  to  abandon  this  part  of  the  trip  should  adverse  circumstances  arise,  or  should  you 
think  time  could  be  gained  for  your  spring  work  by  so  doing. 

Points  shouUl  be  selected  with  reference  to  the  establishment  of  depots  during  the  coining  month. 

On  your  return  you  will  leave  on  the  Greenland  coast  all  suj)plies  not  indispensable  to  your  com- 
fortable and  safe  return  to  Cape  Beechey. 

As  Sergeant  Jewell  will  probably  be  charged  with  the  support  of  your  party  during  the  spring,  you 
should  communicate  to  him  freely  your  views  as  to  the  best  route  and  methods  to  be  followed  in  such  work. 

Meteorological  observations  will  be  made  on  even  hours,  Washington  mean  time,  when  practicable. 
In  all  cases  the  minimum  temperature  must  be  noted. 

A  brief  sledge  journal  must  be  kept,  which  must  show  the  hours  of  travel  and  rest,  the  hour  of  winding 
the  chronometer,  daily  comparisons  of  watches,  and  any  matter  of  importance. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Expedition. 

Second  Lieut.  J.  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Infantry,  Acting  Signal  Officer. 


'i  1 


Appendix  No.  39. — Lieutenant  Lockwood' s  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  j8. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnei.l  Lank,  March  13,  1882. 

Sin:  I  have  the  honor  to  render  the  following  report  on  my  late  trij)  to  the  Greenland  coast,  made 
pursuant  to  your  letter  of  instructions  of  the  28th  of  February. 

The  party  consisted  of  myself,  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Jewell,  the  Eskimo  Frederick,  and  his  dog  team 
(eight  dogs)  and  sledge.  Private  Long,  with  the  Eskimo  Jens  and  his  dog  team,  ?cconipr>nied  me  as  far  as 
Cape  Beechey.  A  tent,  one  4man  sleeping-bag,  ten  days'  rations,  &c.,  all  weighing  three  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds,  constituted  the  equipment,  a  list  of  which,  with  weights,  I  have  already  furnished  you. 

For  the  sake  of  convenience  I  embrace  pretty  much  everything  under  the  several  dates  of  my  sledge 
journal. 

March  i. — At  8.10  a.  m.  left  the  station  with  Long,  Jens,  and  the  latter's  team.  The  rest  of  the  party 
with  the  other  sledge  got  off  at  8  o'clock.     Caught  up  with  them  near  Distant  Cape. 

At  10.30  a.  m.  reached  depot  A.  Here  I  put  on  Jcns's  sledge  a  bag  of  coal,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  or  two  hundred  pounds,  and  on  the  other  the  "signal  can"  of  alcohol,  about  seventy-five  pounds.  Just 
north  of  St.  Patrick  Bay  I  found  the  hag  of  pemmican  and  a  box  of  alcohol  and  added  them  to  the  loads 
of  the  two  sledges. 


THE  LAUY  FUANKLIX  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


145 


At  1.30  [).  m.  reached  sikjw  house,  depot  B.  Frederick's  sledge  got  in  about  one-tiuarter  hour  before 
Jens's.     Here  I  stopped  for  the  night. 

March  2. — At  6  a.  ni.  Long  got  up  and  cooked  breakfast.  At  8.13  a.  ni.  party  got  otit'.  Yesterday's 
load  was  diminished  by  the  bags  of  coal  anil  penimican  picked  up  en  route.  They  were  left  at  the  snow 
house.     Packed  on  Jens'-,  one  of  the  bags  of  rations  made  up  for  Greenland,  the  contents  of  which  you  have. 

At  9.30  a.m.  arrived  at  Cape  lieechey.  Assured  myself  of  the  identity  of  Promontory  Point  as  the 
I)oint  as  laid  down  on  the  map  as  being  the  nearest.     It  bears  S.  60  E.  (true). 

At  10.15  ^'  "'•  ''"''1  sledges  were  through  the  rough  ice  (extending  scjmething  less  than  one-(iuarter  mile 
from  shore),  and,  everything  being  transferred  to  Frederick's  slerlge,  Long  and  Jens  witii  sledge  started  back 
while  the  rest  of  tiie  party  jiroceeded.  The  load  on  one  sledge  must  now  have  been  about  seven  hundred 
pounds. 

At  11.28  a.  111.  reached  a  hummock  of  the  ancient  ice-floe  (the  farthest  of  my  tri[)  with  Sergeant 
Urainard  in  February),  betw  een  four  and  five  miles  from  the  shore.  Ik'ing  fearful  of  the  sledge  breaking  down, 
and  knowing  little  of  the  route  ahead,  I  here  left  the  bag  of  provisions,  [ilacing  it  conspicuously  on  the  top 
of  the  luininiock.  It  is  on  or  (juite  near  a  line  from  Ueechey  to  Promontory  Point, by  which  I  designate  the 
bold  headland  first  below  the  gai)  on  the  opposite  coast.  Delayed  here  ten  minutes.  This  delay,  with 
fifteen  minutes  added,  includes  all  the  stops  made  in  crossing.  The  character  of  the  ice  to  this  point  is  very 
good  indeed,  the  route  being  over  a  paleocrystic  floe  which  is  (piite  level.  The  same  may  be  said,  with 
some  few  exceptions,  of  the  route  for  the  next  two  hours,  when  it  changes  to  an  undulating  surface  with 
deeper  snow  under))  ing  a  weak  crust.     However,  the  route  is  quite  practicable  and,  on  the  whole,  good. 

At  3.05  p.  ni  reached  rubble  ice  but  got  through  and  along  quite  readily;  at  3.55  reached  Greenland 
shore  at  Promontory  Point  and  ])itched  tent  on  an  ice-foot  extending  along  shore  a  few  hundred  yards. 

Miircli  3. — At  6.30  a.  m.  got  up  anil  cooked  breakfast;  Sergeants  Brainard,  Jewell,  and  I  do  the 
cooking  in  turn. 

At  8,45  a.  ni.  started  south.  Inspection  yesterday  afternoon  and  this  morning  before  starting  con- 
vinced me  that  no  ice-foot  exists  along  this  coast.  Later  in  the  day  I  left  the  sledge  on  several  occasions 
for  the  same  purpose  but  always  with  the  same  result.  A  snow  slope  exists  here  and  there,  but  is  often 
interrujited  by  the  Hoe- bergs,  &c.  We  availed  ourselves  of  level  floes  to  a  great  extent,  which  sometimes 
approach  close  to  the  shore,  and  made  fair  progress  though  not  without  the  occasional  use  of  the  ax.  The 
travelii'g  was  found  easier  by  keeping  well  out  from  the  coast.  Passed  by  three  points,  each  of  which  we 
t(jok  for  Cape  Lupton  as  we  approached  it.  On  passing  the  last  a  wide  plain  came  in  view,  extending 
back  from  the  coast  a  long  way.  We  discovered  a  black  object  in  the  distance,  and  at  2.17  p.  m.  reached 
the  observatory  and  the  wintering  place  of  the  Polaris.  Passed  the  night  in  a  hole  dug  in  a  snow-bank  on 
the  beach,  which  made  a  warm,  comfortable  sleejiing  place. 

March  4. — The  forenoon  was  occupied  in  taking  an  inventory  of  everything  found.  The  list  will  be 
found  appended.  Hall's  grave  is  in  good  condition,  the  original  wooden  headboard  and  the  Biitish  head- 
board being  in  position,  and  everytiiing  apparently  as  when  left.  From  a  cairn  near  by  1  took  a  record 
left  by  the  English.  The  grave  of  Hand,  of  the  English  expedition,  was  seen,  and  is  in  good  condition.  The 
range  of  hills  which  sweep  in  a  circle  from  Cape  Lupton  to  Lookout  Mountain,  and  the  range  of  mountains 
to  t'le  south  which  extend  from  the  strait  to  Newman  Bay,  were  easily  iilentified.  The  plain  is  (juite  level 
but  covered  by  such  a  thin  layer  of  snow  in  most  places  that  the  rocky,  stony  surface  of  the  ground  is  much 
exposed.  Everything  considered  I  thought  it  would  be  best  to  proceed  from  here  to  the  mouth  of  Newman 
Bay  via  the  plain  anil  the  head  of  the  bay. 

At  12.25  P-  "1*  went  south  down  the  coast  with  F'rederick  and  team  and  empty  sledge,  in  order  to  find 
the  best  place  to  strike  in  to  the  eastward.  The  want  of  snow  threatened  to  prove  a  serious  difficulty,  I 
had  in  mind  also  Lieutenant  Beaumont's  route  acrosf  After  proceeding  an  hour  and  a  half  I  found  a  small 
ravine  which  promised  to  furnish  a  route,  for  some  distance  at  least,  off  the  coast. 

At  2.50  p.  m.  got  back  to  observatory.     At  6  p.  m.  went  to  bed. 

March  5. — At  6.15  a.  m.  called  cook.  At  10.10  a.  m.  got  off.  Left  the  telescope  behind  in  the  snow- 
house  constructed.  I  followed  my  tracks  of  yesterday,  and  at  1 1.30  got  away  from  the  beach  and  took  an 
easterly  course.  Had  little  difficulty  on  account  of  the  want  of  snow,  to  my  surprise  ;  though  thin  it  seemed 
packed  hard  on  the  ground,  and  with  a  little  care  we  avoided  the  bare  ground.  I  soon  found  another  ravine 
which  enters  the  straits  lower  down.  This  became  deeper  and  the  country  more  broken  until  we  emerged 
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146 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


on  what  is  probably  the  water  shed,  an  extensive  plain  stretching  to  the  cast  as  far  as  could  be  seen.  We 
found  this  little  broken  by  any  deep  watercourses,  though  the  absence  of  snow  was  surprising.  The 
thermometer  registered  —55.5  [—48.6°  C]  and  there  was  (juite  a  perceptible  breeze  blowiiig  in  our  faces. 

At  3.55  p.  m.  reached  some  deep  snow  in  a  shallow  ravine  west  of  an  apparently  isolated  mountain, 
towards  which  we  had  been  traveling  for  one  or  two  hours.  Here  we  dug  a  hole  through  in  3^  or  4  feet 
[i  o"  or  1.2"].  The  ground  was  uncovered,  the  tent  and  poles  were  placed  over  it  and  snow  over  them,  and 
here  we  passed  a  warm  night,  though  very  much  cramped  for  room. 

March  6. — At  4.45  a.  m.  called  cook ;  at  9  a.  m.  got  off,  after  digging  out  of  our  lodgings  through  the 
snow.  A  heavy  snow-storm  had  prevailed  during  the  night.  It  was  still  snowing,  and  the  nearest  land- 
marks were  so  obscure  that  traveling  was  by  no  means  easy.  The  character  of  the  country  remained  pretty 
much  the  same,  the  wdter-courses,  like  prairie  drains,  running  to  the  east. 

At  11.15  a.  m.  reached  what  I  took  to  be  Newman  Bay,  a  perfectly  level  expanse,  covered  with  snow, 
extending  to  the  east,  with  nothing  to  break  the  surface  but  a  group  of  rocks,  which  I  thought  might  be  an 
island.  But  the  driving  snow  did  not  allow  us  to  see  very  far.  The  isolated  mountain  of  yesterday  seemed 
to  be  the  west  extreme  of  a  range  of  hills,  the  eastern  end  of  which  was  to  the  north  of  us,  and  which  I 
thought  must  mark  the  west  shorff  of  the  bay.  This  point  I  made  for,  but  soon  discovered  it  was  earth  under 
my  feet  instead  of  ice,  and  on  reaching  it  found  mountains  to  the  northeast  of  us  and  the  undulations  of 
land  to  the  east. 

Took  from  here  a  northeast  direction. 

At  1.05  p.  m.  strong  wind  and  snow,  making  frost-bites  frequent  and  traveling  in  its  teeth  very  severe 
work.  I  determined  to  burrow  into  a  good  snow-bank  near  by.  It  took  two  hours  and  ten  minutes  to  build 
our  abode. 

March  7. — The  temperature  being  very  low,  and  much  wind,  we  remained  in  snow-burrow  all  day. 

March  8. — Weather  still  very  bad,  but  started  out  at  8  a.  m.,  notwithstanding,  to  make  an  attempt.  Frost- 
bites became  so  frequent  that  I  returned  in  the  course  of  an  hour.  Observation  of  temperature  of  snow 
house,  opening  (door)  uncovered,  no  lamp,  outside,  —33°  [—36.1°  C.];  on  floor,  6  feet  [i-8"']  from  door, 
■\-^  [—16.1°  C.];  2)4  feet  f.76'"]  above  floor,  +31°  [— o.6°C.];  roof,  between  five  and  six  feet  [1.5  and 
1.8"*]  high,  temperature,  when  lamp  was  burning,  +36°  [+2.2°  C.j  only.  Just  previous  to  this,  however, 
a  hole  was  cut  in  the  roof  and  a  piece  of  canvas  placed  over  it  to  serve  as  a  window,  candles  having  been 
forgotten,  and  none  brought  on  trip.  The  temperature,  doubtless,  afterwards  got  much  higher  than  this. 
These  experiments  were  performed  just  after  return  of  the  party. 

March  9. — At  3.35  a.  m.  cook  arose;  at  5.15  a.  m.  breakfast;  at  6.45  a.  m.  got  off,  and  followed  a 
slight  surface  drain,  which  gradually  became  a  wide  and  deep  ravine,  leading  us  in  a  generally  northeast 
direction  (very  winding).  In  this  ravine,  not  far  from  the  bay,  four  ptarmigan  were  seen.  Here  also  I  shot 
a  hare. 

At  9.20  a.  m.  on  shore  of  Newman  Bay ;  Reynold's  Island  not  to  be  distinguished.  I  think  we  must 
have  been  some  distance  up  the  west  coast.  The  whole  bay  is  smooth  and  level.  The  snow  on  its  surface 
hard.  We  traveled  along  very  satisfactorily,  though  all  had  to  walk.  Yet  the  load  consisted  of  little  else 
than  tent  and  sleeping-bag.  The  low  temperature  seemed  to  cause  great  friction.  On  little  patches  of  ice 
met  with,  the  sledge  moved  along  very  smoothly  indeed.  We  walked  almost  continuously  during  the  entire 
trip.    There  is  no  ice-foot  along  this  coast. 

At  3  p.  m.  reached  Boat  Camp.  Found  readily  the  whale-boat  and  the  canvas  boat.  The  former  has 
one-half  dozen  oars  by  her  side.  Did  not  turn  her  over  for  want  of  time,  and  not  regarding  it  as  necessary. 
These  boats  are  substantially  as  described  in  the  English  reports.  The  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  whale-boat 
is  hardly  larger  than  one's  hand ;  otherwise  the  boat  seemed  in  good  order  and  condition.  Examined  the 
bottom  carefully. 

At  4.15  p.  m.  reached  a  point  at  or  quite  near  Cape  Sumner,  when  we  pitched  the  tent.  The  route 
from  the  Boat  Camp  here  lies  on  a  snow  slope  behind  a  row  of  heavy  floe-bergs.  The  route  could  be  made 
practicable  for  loaded  sledges,  only  with  several  hours'  work,  I  exercised  my  discretion  and  did  not  go 
to  Gap  Valley  or  Cape  Brevoort.  I  think  the  depot  should  be  cither  at  the  former  or  at  the  Boat  Camp 
and  both  are  inside  the  rough  ice  which  crowds  into  the  mouth  of  the  bay  from  the  straits.  All  inside  of 
this  line  the  ice  is  smooth  and  level.  There  seems  to  be  a  good  route  over  some  level  floes  which  extended 
from  the  straits  into  the  bay  about  midway  between  the  two  capes.  Between  the  Boat  Camp  and  Cape 
Sumner,  extending  some  hundred  yards  from  the  shore,  the  ice  is  of  the  roughest  description. 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


147 


March  lo. — Last  night  was  cold  and  unconafortable  in  the  extreme.  Tlie  sleeping-bag  was  unrolled 
with  difficulty,  and  with  as  much  labor  we  wedged  our  way  in  between  the  frozen  folds. 

At  3  a.  m.  cook  arose.  I  deposited  the  tent  and  poles,  sleeping-bag,  one  spade,  one  shovel,  one  snow 
knife,  and  a  piece  of  cooked  musk  meat  (about  ten  pounds)  on  the  side  of  a  small  ravine  or  break  in  the 
cliffs,  about  too  yards  [91*"]  west  of  Cape  Sumner,  or  at  least  west  of  my  camping  place,  and  in  a  con- 
spicuous position. 

At  6.55  a.  m.  left  camp  and  took  a  direct  route  for  Cape  Beechey.  For  some  hours  we  traveled  over 
level  floes;  then  we  encountered  the  undulating  surface  of  paleocrystic  floes,  and  afterwards  made  slow  and 
laborious  progress  through  rubble  ice ;  then  for  an  hour  or  two  we  traveled  over  a  perfectly  smooth,  level 
floe.  It  coming  on  to  blow  and  snow,  so  as  to  shut  out  even  the  nearest  land,  I  inclined  more  to  the  right, 
and,  after  about  an  hour  through  bad  rubble  ice,  at  3. 15  a.  m.,  reached  the  Grinnell  Land  shore,  about  a  mile 
above  Cape  Beechey,  traveling  principally  over  a  snow  slope. 

At  3.45  a.  ra.  passed  our  outward  tracks  at  old  crossing. 

At  5.20  a.  m.  reached  snow  house  (depot  6).  The  level  floes  which  I  speak  of  as  encountering  in  the 
morning,  seemed  to  extend  south  in  a  course  nearly  parallel  to  the  coast,  and  probably  as  low  as  the  Gap. 
I  think  that  the  best  route  to  Cape  Sumner  lies  in  my  original  tracks  across  tRe  straits  till,  perhaps,  two  hours 
from  Promontory  Point  and  the  Gap,  and  then  in  taking  advantage  of  the  level  floes  which  I  have  men- 
tioned as  extending  south  from  Cape  Sumner.  My  trail  from  Cape  Sumner  to  Cape  Beechey  is  not  practi- 
cable for  loaded  sledges  without  much  work  with  the  ax. 

March  11.— At  8.30  a.  m.  called  cook;  at  11. 10  a.  m.  got  off;  at  2.05  p.  m.  passed  depot  A;  at  5.15 
p.  m.  arrived  at  statjon. 

Appended  will  be  found  the  meteorological  report  of  Sergeant  Jewell,  as  also  the  list  of  stores  at  Thank 
God  Harbor. 

Very  respectfully, 

J.    B.    LOCKWOOD, 

Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  0. 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

J'i/th  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  International  Polar  Expedition. 


: 


'1  •    '»' 


List  of  stores  at  Thank  God  Harbor  and  their  condition. 


yi  barrel  wheat,  apparently  good. 

2  Enfield  rifles  (1862),  apparently  good. 

^  canister  gunpowder,  small  grain,  in  100-pound  canister, 
serviceable. 
900  rounds  Springfield  cartridges,  metal,  cal.  50,  apparently 
good. 
1,000  cartridges,  center  primed,  Nary  pistol,  cal.  50,  apparently 

goo<l. 
1,000  cartridges,  center  primed,  Navy  pistol,  cal.  50,  apparently 

good. 
1,000  cartridges,  center  primed.  Navy  pistol,  cal.  50,  apparently 
good. 
8  brass  hinges,  4  brass  rowlocks,  6  brass  castings,  8  brass 

castings,  2  brass  hooks,  good. 
I  steel  fox-trap,  good. 
I  pickax,  without  handle,  good, 
a  saws,  carpenter's,  good. 
^  hatchets,  good. 
I  shovel,  good. 

3  shovels,  bad. 

I  box  farina  (about  30  or  40  pounds),  Polarii,  apparently 
good. 


I  barrel  cornmeal  (of  yellow  color),  gocu.  (?) 

6  cans  pemmican  (45-pound  cans)  for  men  to  eat,  good. 

I  hammer,  machinist's,  good. 

I  mattress  (single),  much  worn. 

1  S-nian  tent.  (?) 

^  barrel  lime  juice,  good. 
}i  barrel  pork  (mess),  bad. 

2  water-breakers  (iMjats),  good. 

I  grindstone  (lietween  1 2  and  20  inches  diameter),  good. 

1  bag  tea  (in  liarrel),  spoiled. 

3  shovels,  bad. 

2  dozen  lead  in  straps,  good. 
I  12-man  sledge,  good. 

I  5-man  sledge,  good. 
10  barrels  hard  bread.  (?) 
I  small  box  minie-ball  cartridges  and  caps,  apiiarently  good. 

3  coverlets,  felt,  good. 

I  wateq>roof  floor  cloth  (for  s-man  tent), serviceable. 
3  35-pound  bags  No.  2  shut,  good. 
I  25-puund  bag  No.  3  buckshot,  good. 
3  volumes  "  Punch,"  bound,  good, 
I  book  (— — ),  good. 


I; 


148 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


List  of  stores  at  Thank  God  Harbor  and  their  condition — Continued. 


I  book  (Eulalic)  good. 
I  book  (Koul  riay),  good. 

1  book  (Albert  Nyanza)  by  Baker,  good. 

About  3  dozen  panes  gla^..,  about  8  x  lo,  8  x  12,  &c.,  good. 

2  snow  knives,  good. 
I  tent  brush,  good. 

I  1k>x  shotgun  cartridges  (center  primed),  apparently  good. 
I  20.root  ice-boat  (complete),  apparently,  as  well  as  could  be 

a.scertained  without  turning   her  over  (she  lays  bottom 

up),  excellent. 


I  .<itove  (cog-wheels  and  spindle),  apparently  good. 

I   coil   insulated  wire  on  large   iron  cylinder.     I   can  rum 

(English  can  al>out  si/e  of  signal  can  and  has  about  3 

inches  in  bottom),  excellent. 

1  sledge  trough,  serviceable. 
II  crowbars  (iron),  good. 

3  blue  scar|>s,  good. 

2  cooking-lamps,  good. 


It  should  be  added  that  as  thorough  an  inspection  as  desirable  of  everything  was  not  obtained,  a  cold 
wind  with  snow  making  such  work  very  severe. 

The  observatory  -has  three  sides  standing;  the  floor  is  also  all  right;  the  roof  is  gone.  There  are 
several  planks  and  other  debris  scattered  around,  which  probably  once  formed  part  of  the  observatory. 
Enough  of  these  remain,  I  think,  to  complete  the  building  once  more.  All  stuff  in  the  observatory  was 
moved  out  and  afterwards  replaced  and  covered  as  well  as  practicable.  Covered  the  barrels  of  hard 
bread  with  old  canvas;  their  heads  are  all  out. 


Date. 


I 

!  Mar.  I 
I  Mar.  2 
Mar.  2 
I  Mar.  2 
i  Mar.  3 

Mar.  3 
Mar.  4 


Mar.  5 

Mar.  5 

Mar.  5 

Mar.  s 

Mar.  6 

Mar 

Mar 

Mar 

Mar 

Mar 

Mar 

Mar 

Mar 

M 


liar 


Meteorological  report  of  sledge  party  to  Cape  Sumner, 


Time. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 
a.  m. 
13  p.  m. 
a.  m. 

p.  m. 
a.  m. 


7 

a.  m. 

II 

a.  m. 

29. 68' 

2 

i  m. 

29.50 

4 

p.  m. 

29.42 

6 

p.  m. 

29.50 

8 

a.m. 

29-57 

II 

a.  m. 

29.52 

5 

p.  m. 

29.50 

8 

a.  m. 

29.42 

12 

m. 

29.28 

4 

p.  m. 

29.29 

6 

a.  m. 

29.41 

II 

a.  m. 

29.69 

4- 

lSp.m. 

Marumetcr 

No.  -. 


In. 
29.65 
29.36 
29.04 
28.  96 
29.03 

29- 54 
29.65 


753 -'o 
745-73 
737-<H> 
735-57 
737-35 


753-86 
749  29 
747  25 
749.29 
75'-o<' 
749-79 
749.29 
747  25 
743-70 
743-95 
747.00 
754.11 


Thermometer 
No.  I. 


Fahr. 
—18.0 

-36.  o 
-35- o 
— 37-0 
—36.0 


750.30     —25.0 
753- 'o     — 37-0 


—SO.  5 
—55- 5 
—52.0 
5'o 
-36.  5 
—49-5 
—44.0 
-42. 

-35. 
30. 

"33' 

—34. 

-39 

—40 


C. 
-27.8 

-37  8 
-37-2 
-38.3 
-37-8 

-31 -7 
-38.3 


-45.8 
-48.6 
-46.7 
—46. 1 
38<i 

45-3 

-  42.2 

41 . 1 

-37  2 

—34-4 
—36.4 

-36 -7 

-39-4 

—40.0 


Wind. 


i 


SE.     Brisk. 
NE.  I  Light. 


NE. 
NE. 
NE. 

NE. 
NE. 


NE. 
S. 

NE. 
NE. 
NE. 
NE. 
NE. 
NE. 
NE. 
NK. 
NE. 
NE. 
NE. 


Light. 
Light. 
Light. 


Brisk. 
Eresh. 


Light. 
Light. 
Light. 
Light. 
Fresh. 
Fresh . 
Brisk. 
Brisk. 
Brisk. 
Brisk. 
Brisk 
Light 
Light, 


o 
I 


Lt.  snow 
Clearing 
Fair  .„ 
Fair  .,. 
Cloudy  . 


Fair 


Fair 

Fair  ... 

Fair  ... 

Cloudy . 

Cloudy  . 

Cloudy . 

Cloudy  . 

Cloudy  . 

Cloudy  . 

Lt.  snow 
!  Foggy. 
1  Clou<ly 
I  Cloudy 


Minimum 
thermometer. 


Fahr, 


-38 
—45 


-37 


— 5« 


5* 

-52 


C. 


-38-9 
-42."8' 


-38.6 


— 46. 1 


46.7 
•07 


-43 
-35 


-41.7 
-37-2 


Remarks. 


At  depot  B. 

Do. 
On  the  straits. 

Do. 
On  Greenland  coast, 
north  of  C.Lupton. 
Thank  Go<l  Ha  '  ■  ir . 
Thank  God  I  ■      K>r. 
Early  ofthe  morning 
of  the  4th  a  heavy 
gale    prevailed    at 
Thank  God  Harbor, 
and  also  during  the 
night  of  the  5th. 
East  of  Hall's  Rest. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

Newman  Bay. 


f,.-'*i 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


149 


If 


1       I 


Appendix  No.  40. — English  records  obtained  af  fhoiik  God  Harbor. 

[Arctic  Expedition.     H.  M.  S.  Di%ccn<ery  at  Bellot  Harbour.     Lat.  81°  44'  north,  long,  65"  3'  west.     31 

March,  1876.] 

This  paper  is  deposited  by  a  sledge  party,  under  Lieut.  R.  Archer  of  the  Discm<ery,  who  came  over  to 
see  the  state  of  the  provisions  in  depot  here.  I'he  things  seem  to  be  good  and  serviceable.  The  following 
things  were  found  here : 


1,  i 


1,125  pounds  pemmican  (two-thirds  sweet). 
1,152  pounds  preserved  meat. 
24  barrels  of  bread. 
3  casks  of  pork. 

2  casks  of  hams. 

3  bags  of  bread. 

We  crossed  straight  over  from  Bellot  Harbour  to  Cape  Lupton  and  found  the  ice  better  in  the  middle 
but  difficult  travelling  at  the  sides. 

RoHKRT  H.  Archer,  Lieut. 


2  cases  farina. 

2  casks  of  lime  juice. 

I  cask  of  molasses. 

An  observatory  rather  dilapidated,  some  few  arti- 
cles of  clothing,  two  stoves,  and  a  few  other 
sundries. 


it 


Start,  on  our  return  to  the  ship,  to-day,  Ap.  2d.  We  leave  m  the  observatory  10  rations  of  bread  and  45 
rations  of  stearine. 

R.  H.  A. 

PRINTED  RECORD.  . 

[H.  M.  S.  Discovery,  winter  quarters,  Bellot  Harbor.     Lat.  81  44  N.,  long.  65  3  14  W.] 

On  the  15th  July,  1875,  H.  M.  S.  A /ert  and  Diseorery  left  Disco  for  Rittenbenk,  arriving  there  on  the 
16th.  Left  on  the  17th  for  Proven,  passing  through  the  Waigatt  Channel.  Anchored  at  Proven  on  the 
19th.  Embarked  Hans  Christian;  left  on  the  21st, steaming  inside  the  islands  of  Upernivik  on  the  22d, 
left  again  the  same  evening  by  the  northern  entrance,  experienced  dense  fogs  until  discharging  the  native 
pilot  of?  Kingatok  on  the  23d.  Then  shaped  course  to  the  northward  of  Brown  Island,  which  was  abeam 
at  4.30  p.  m.;  weather  fine,  clear,  and  calm.  At  3.10  a.  m.  of  the  24th  ran  into  the  middle  pack  ice  of 
Melville  Bay,  lat.  73°  30'  N.,  long.  60°  W.,  approx.,  patent  log  showing  63  miles  frotn  Brown  Island.  Ice 
from  2  to  6  feet  [.6  to  1.8'" J  thick,  but  much  decayed.  Steamed  thiough  the  bay  in  36  hours  without  diffi- 
culty, A/ert  proceeding  to  the  Carey  Islands  and  Discmery  to  Cape  York ;  the  two  ships  joined  off  the  Carey 
group  at  midnight  of  the  26th.  By  6  a.  m.  of  the  27th,  both  vessels  were  on  their  way  to  Port  Foulke, 
passing  between  Hakluyt  and  Northumberland  Islands.  Anchored  in  Hartstene  Bay  on  the  28th.  Cap- 
tain Nares  visited  Littleton  Island.  Left  Hartstene  Bay  on  the  29th  for  Ca[e  Isabella,  v^/^-r/ erecting  a 
cairn  south  of  that  cape,  and  Discwery  proceeding  to  Cape  Sabine,  where  we  were  detained  till  the  4th  of 
August  (Smith  Sound  being  completely  blocked  up  with  ice) ;  rounded  Cape  Sabine  and  j  roceedcd  up 
Hayes  Sound,  intending  if  possible  to  pass  to  the  westward  of  Henry  Island}  finding  no  passage  we  retraced 
our  steps  on  the  6th,  and  secured  to  the  Ice  in  Franklin  Pierce  Bay  on  the  8th.  Left  again  on  the  9th,  and 
made  fast  to  floe  under  Cape  Prescott  till  the  nth.     Cut  into  dock  in  Dobbin  Bay  on  the  13th. 

Rounded  Cape  Napoleon  on  the  15th,  and  experienced  great  difficulty  in  getting  to  Cape  McClintock, 
which  was  not  reached  till  the  20th,  lat.  80°  3'  N.,  long.  70°  37'  W.  On  the  21st  observed  open  water  in 
midchannel ;  we  took  advantage  of  it  until  reaching  Joe  Island,  when  a  barrier  of  ice  extending  from  Cape 
Moreton  to  Grinnell  Land  stopped  further  progress.  Anchored  in  Bessell's  Bay  on  the  23d.  Left  again 
on  the  24th,  unable  to  get  to  the  northward  of  Newman  Bay.  We  closed  the  SE.  corner  of  Grant's  L.nnd, 
entering  a  large  and  deep  bay  on  the  north  side  of  Lady  Franklin's  Strait  named  Bellot  Harbour,  the  winter 
quarters  of  H.  M.  S.  Discin<ery.  The  Alert  left  on  the  26th,  having  embarked  Lieut.  Rawson,  with  7  men 
and  sledge  complete,  from  this  ship.  The  Diuoi'ery  was  frozen  in  on  the  5th  of  September;  no  autumn 
sledging  to  the  northward  in  Robeson  Channel,  or  Lady  Franklin's  Strait  to  the  westward,  in  consequence 
of  water  along  the  shore,  as  well  as  the  sludgy  state  of  the  ice,  which  rendered  it  impracticable  for  either 
boat  or  sledge  to  make  any  progress. 


\  -\ 


.  <•!?  ! 


1  ^  fli  , 


'-,  % 


,  i 


I  Si 


ill 


150 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


We  lost  the  sun  on  the  i6th  Oct.,  1875,  until  the  29th  Feb.,  1876,  making  135  days  absent. 

The  winter  was  passed  pleasantly  and  cheerfully,  with  very  little  sickness.  The  country  abounds  in 
musk-oxen,  hares,  ptarmigan,  snow-bunting  and  lemmings,  with  two  sorts  of  seals  in  the  bay,  so  that  we 
have  had  a  liberal  supply  of  fresh  meat.  The  weather  has  been  very  cold  but  fine  and  calm.  Our  position 
is  so  well  sheltered  that  we  have  only  experienced  two  heavy  gales.  We  have  heard  nothing  of  the  Alert 
since  August,  1875.  Expect  news  before  the  ist  of  April  (1876).  Intend  visiting  Hall's  Rest  when  prac- 
ticable. 

All  well  up  to  this  date. 

|H.  F.  Stephenson],  C<///<M«. 

2sth  March,  1876,  received  news,     .^^/zfr/ wintered  in  lat.  82  27  N.,  long.  61  22  W.     All  well.     Parties 

from  Alert  exploring  north  coast  of  Grinnell  Land,  and  due  north  over  Polar  pack.     Parties  from  Discin>ery 

exploring  North  Greenland  and  Peterman  Fiord.     Lady  Franklin  Straits  is  a  deep  sound  bearing  S.  W.,  60 

miles,  terminating  in  two  small  bays.     All  well  to  this  date. 

H.  F.  Stephenson,  Captain. 

10  May,  1875. 

Lieut.  Fulford  and  Sub-Lieut.  Conybeare,  with  18  men  and  2  ice-boats,  arrived  here  at  2  a.  ni.  of  the 
1 2th  May,  1876,  having  left  H.  M.  S.  Discovery  at  8  p.  m.  of  the  7th  inst. 

Capt.  Stephenson,  Mr.  Hart  (naturalist),  Henry  Petty,  and  Hans  Christian  (Esquimaux),  with  dog- 
sledge,  arrived  at  2  a.  m.  of  the  12th  May,  having  left  Discin<ery  at  8  p.  m.  of  the  10th  inst. 

Dr.  Coppinger,  with  Geo.  Emnierson  and  8  men  in  two  sledges  arrived  herefrom  "Refuge  Harbour" 
at  7.30  p.  m.  of  the  15th  May,  1876.  Dr.  Coppinger  parted  company  with  Lieuts.  Beaumont  and  Rawson 
on  the  5th  May,  at  Cape  Stanton,  their  party  being  all  well.  Geo.  W.  Emmerson  left  H.  M.  S.  AJertaX 
Floe-berg  Beach  on  the  2d  inst.,  in  lat.  82°  27',  long.  61°  22'  W. 

Capt.  Stephenson,  Sub-Lt.  Conybeare,  Mr.  Hart,  and  party  of  27  men,  left  this  harbor  at  8.10  a.  m.,  of 
the  17th  May,  1876,  for  H.  M.  S.  Discovery,  Discovery  Bay.     All  well. 

Lieut.  Fulford,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Coppinger,  2  men,  and  dog-sledgfr,  leave  at  10  a.  m.,  this  day,  the 
17th  May,  for  Newman  Bay,  with  depot  for  Lieut.  Beaumont. 

R.  B.  Fulford,  Lieut.,  R.  N. 

Polaris  Bay,  May  17,  1876. 

June  yd  — Lieut.  Rawson  arrived,  with  party  of  4  men,  having  left  Lieut.  Beaumont  about  40  miles  along 
the  coast,  N.  E.  from  Repulse  Harbor.  Lieut.  Rawson  was  sent  back  from  the  advance  party  with  J.  J. 
Hand,  A.  B.,  suflfering  from  scurvy,  who  died  the  night  of  his  arrival  here. 

yune  ith. — Lieut  Fulford,  Dr.  Coppinger,  and  party  returned  from  Peterman  Fiord ;  they  advanced  to  a 
distance  of  30  miles,  but  were  eventually  stopped  by  glacier  ice. 

yune  22//. — Lieut.  Rawson  and  Dr.  Coppinger,  with  dog-sledge,  proceeded  in  search  of  Lieut.  Beaumont 
and  party  (due  at  Hall's  Rest,  Polaris  Bay,  June  15th);  Lieut.  Rawson  met  the  party  in  Newman  Bay  June 
25th,  the  whole  of  them  being  sick  with  scurvy,  4  having  to  be  carried  on  the  sledge. 

yune  29M. — Dr.  Coppinger,  with  Wm.  Jenkins,  Car  Ute,  and  Chas.  W.  Paul,  A.  B.,  on  dog-sledge,  arrived 
at  Hall's  Rest  at  12.30  a.  m. ;  Chas.  W.  Paul,  A.  B.,  died  that  afternoon  at  5.15  p.  m. 

yuly  \st. — Lieuts.  Beaumont  and  Rawson,  with  remainder  of  party  (two  carried),  arrived  safely  at  Hall's 
Rest,  Polaris  Bay. 

yuly  12M. — Lieut.  Fulford,  with  dog-sledge,  proceeded  to  H.  M.  S.  Discm'ery,  Discovery  Bay  (Bellot 
Harbor). 

yuly  igt/i. — Captain  Stephenson,  with  party  of  6,  arrived  from  the  ship. 

yuly  2()th. — Intend  leaving,  with  Lieut.  Rawson  and  7  men,  for  Discovery  today.  All  invalids  doing 
well.     Lieutenant  Beaumont,  with  remainder  of  party,  hope  to  follow  in  a  week. 

H.  F.  Stephenson,  Captain. 

July  29th,  1876. 

Augt.  1th. — Start  to-day  for  Discovery  Bay,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Coppinger  and  remainder  of  party  (7); 

have  waited  since  Ftiday  (4th)  on  account  of  the  very  bad  weather.     Great  quantity  of  ice  has  gone  down 

the  strait  during  this  last  gale. 

L.  A.  Beaumont,  R.  N.,  Lt. 


TQE  LADY  FBAKRLIK  BAV  EXPEDITION. 


151 


[H.  M.  S.  Discovery,     Winter  (quarters,  Bellot  Harbour.     Lat.  8i  44  N.,  Long.  65  3  14  W.] 

H.  F.  Stei'HENson,  Captain, 
Duplicate  of /r/ ////•</ rftor^/ on  page  149: 

Match  28,  1876. 

Received  news  oi  Alert  on  2sth  March,  '76.  She  wintered  in  the  pack  off  the  west  coast  of  Robeson 
Channel,  lat.  82°  27'  N.,  long.  61°  18'  15"  W.,  close  to  the  shore.  "All  well."  Three  sledgps  will  follow 
the  north  coast  of  Grant's  Land,  now  trending  to  the  N.  W.,  and  this  party  endeavours  to  proceed  to  the 
northward  over  the  ice.  Parties  from  the  Discovery  will  explore  the  north  coast  of  Greenland  and  Lady 
Franklin's  Straits. 

H.  F.  S. 

[Arctic  Expedition,  H.  M.  S.  Alert,  Floe-berg  Beach,  82°  27'  N.,  61°  22'  W.,  30th  April,  1876.) 

MEMORANDUM. 

The  supplies  of  stores  and  provisions  left  in  depot  at  Polaris  Bay  by  the  late  American  Arctic  Expe- 
dition may  be  used  if  retjuisite  by  any  travelling  party  arriving  there  from  the  Alert  or  Discovery.  The 
commander  of  each  party  is  held  responsible  that  no  waste  or  damage  of  either  the  provisions  or  fuel  occurs 
during  his  stay.  He  is  to  separate  from  the  stores  such  supplies  as  may  be  re<iuired  to  place  his  crew  on 
the  regulated  scale  of  rations,  and  secure  the  remainder  in  the  best  manner  possible.  A  book  will  be 
left  at  the  store  in  which  the  commanding  officer  is  to  note  the  date  of  his  arrival  at  and  departure  from 
the  depot  and  the  quantity  of  supplies  he  has  used.  He  should  also  note  any  information  in  his  possession, 
relating  to  the  stores  or  the  neighborhood,  which  might  prove  of  value  to  future  visitors.  A  copy  of  eac'u 
entry  in  the  store  book  is  to  be  given  to  his  commander  on  the  return  of  the  party  to  their  ship. 

G.  S.  Nares,  Capt.  H.  TV.,  Comdg.  Arctic  Expdn. 

To  Captain  Stephenson,  H.  M.  S.  Discin<e>y,  and  all  in  command  of  sledge  parties  arriving  at  the 
Polaris  Bay  depot. 

Provisions  in  depot,  12th  May,  1876:  Preserved  meat  (?),•  926;  American,  1,035;  biscuits  (all  good) 
1,990;  tea,  356;  hams,  570;  stearine,  182;  cask  Indian  meal,  i;  cask  wheat,  1;  cask  of  pork,  1  ;  cask  of 
molasses,  ^;  casks  of  lime-juice,  2;  cask  of  pickles,  i. 

R.  B.  FuLFOKU,  Lt. 

Depot  left  in  boats,  for  Lt.  Beaumont,  consisting  of  7  days  for  1 7  men,  or  1 1 9  rations,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  pemmican,  biscuit,  tea,  and  bacon. 

R.  B.  Fui.FORD,  Lt. 

Polaris  Bay,  i  i  May,  '76,  2  a.  m. 
Lieut.  R.  B.  Fulford  and  Sub- Lieut.  Conybeare,  with  18  men  and  2  ice-boats,  arrived  from  H.  M.  S. 
Discovery,  Discovery  Bay,  lat-  81°  44'  N.,  long.  65°  03'  (?)  W.     Capt.  Stephenson  arrived  same  time 
with  dog-sledge  and  3  men.     Issued,  by  his  order,  the  following  provisions  to  the  party :  Preserved  (?)  meat, 
19;  biscuits,  108  (?);  tea,  2;  stearine,  28;  hams  (?),  48;  molasses  (?),  4;  pemmican  (?),  85. 

R.  B.  Fulford,  Lieut. 

I  sM  May,  7.30  /.  w.— Dr.  Coppinger,  Geo.  Emmerson,  and  C.  Bell  arrived  from  Repulse  Harbour. 
Issued,  by  Capt.  Stephenson's  order,  depot  for  (?)  Lieut.  Beaufort:  Biscuit,  42;  tea,  — ;  ham  (in  lieu 
bacon)  12;  pemmican,  48;  stearine,  9. 

Additional  provisions,  issued  by  Capt.  Stephenson's  order:  Preserved  meat,  25;  biscuit,  16;  tea,  — ;  pem- 
mican, 12;  ham  (in  lieu  bacon),  6. 

Crawford  Conybeare,  Sub-Lieut. 

Issued  by  order  of  Capt.  Stephenson  to  Lieut.  Fulford  laying  out  depot  isth  May,  '76:  Pemmican,  20; 

biscuit,  17^  ;  stearine  — ;  preserved  (?)  meat  (?),  6. 

R    B.  Fulford,  //. 

*Only  letter- press  copies  of  these  records  brought  back,  which,  having  been  wet,  are  in  places  illegible.     A.  W.  G. 


i  ■•■\' 


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11  r 


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f 


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152 


THE  LADY  PRAKKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Provisions,  depot, —th  May, '76:  Preserved  meat,  367;  pemmican,  955;  biscuit,  1,925  (?);  tea,  30  10^; 
ham,  258;  stearine,  160  (?);  cask  wheat,  i;  cask  molasses  (?),  i;  cask  Indian  meal,  i;  kegs  lime-juice,  2; 
pickles,  I. 

17//4  May,  1876. — Issued  by  order  of  Capt.  Stephenson:  Preserved  meat,  28;  ham  (in  lieu  bacon),  12; 
tea,  23  oz;  stearine,  84. 

Crawford  Convbeare,  Sub-Lt. 

Lt.  Fulford,  Sub-Lt.  Conybeare,  with  18  men  and  2  ice-boats  (20  ft.  and  15  ft.),  arrived  here  2  a.  m.  of 
the  1 2th  May,  1876,  from  H.  M.  S.  Discorrry,  having  left  the  ship  8  p.  m.,  7th  inst.  Captain  Stephenson, 
Mr.  Hart  (naturalist),  Henry  Petty,  and  Hans  Clnistian  (Esk.),  with  dog-sledge,  arrived  at  2  a.  m.  on  the 
i2th  May,  1876,  having  left  Discovery  8  p.  m.,  loth. 

Dr.  Coppinger,  with  Geo.  Emmerson  with  8  men  and  2  dog-sledges,  arrived  from  Repulse  Harbour 
at  7.30  p.  m.  on  the  15th  May,  1876,  the  former  having  left  Lts.  Beaumont  and  Rawson  at  Cape  Stanton  on 
the  5th  of  May.  All  well.  The  latter  from  H.  M.  S.  Alert  at  1 1  p.  m.,  on  the  2d  inst.,  Floeberg  Beach, 
lat.  82O  27'  N.,  long.  610  22'  W. 

May  ijtA,  1876. — Capt.  Stephenson,  Mr.  Hart  (naturalist)  Sub-Lt.  Conybeare,  and  27  men  left  at  8 
a.  m.  this  day  for  H.  M.  S.  Disctwery,  Discovery  Bay.  All  well.  Placed,  by  captain's  orders,  record  20  ft. 
magnetic  N.  of  Hall's  grave. 

Lt.  Fulford,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Coppinger,  2  men,  and  dog-sledge,  leave  at  10  a.  m.  this  day  foi;  New- 
man Bay  with  depot  for  Lt.  Beaumont. 

May  2is(,  1876. — At  2  a.  m.  I  returned  with  Dr.  Coppinger  and  2  men  with  dog-sledge  from  Newman 
Bay,  having  laid  depot  of  48  rations  on  the  south  side  of  that  bay,  about  40  yards  from  the  ice-foot  and 
marked  by  a  flag.    This  on  the  west  side  of  a  small  gully.     Dr.  Coppinger  and  his  sledge  came  up. 

May  22Hif,  1876. — Took  from  depot:  Pemmican,  220  lbs.;  stearine,  15  (?)  lbs.;  hams,  32  lbs.;  pre- 
served meat,  6  lbs. ;  molasses,  i ;  lime-juice,  2. 

.  I  intend  leaving  at  9  p.  m.,  the  22d  of  May,  1876,  with  16  days'  provisions,  to  explore  Petermann's  Fiord. 

Reginald  B.  Fulford,  Lt.  R.  JV.,  H.  M.  Sledge  Faith. 

yune  2nd,  1876,  9  a.  m. — I  .arrived  here  with  O'Regaii  and  Rayner  walking,  having  come  in  to  fetch 
provisions,  only  being  .  .  .  and  Hand  and  Bryant  about  2  miles  to  the  south.  Have  carried  Hand 
on  sledge  (with  scurvy)  since  May  19.  Bryant  has  not  been  able  to  pull  from  on  May  10.  All  well.  Have 
taken  pemmican,  4  lbs.;  preserved  meat  and  vegetables,  4  lbs.;  biscuit,  4  lbs.;  rum,  2  gills;  ham  (t). 
About  one-half  lb.  lime-juice,  frozen. 

Am  going  back  at  once  to  sledge,  which  I  hope  to  bring  up  to-morrow,  but  snow  is  very  heavy,  and  my 
men  are  (?)  at  (?)  her  (?)  done  (?),  so  I  may  not  be  here  till  the  4th.     I  left  Repulse  Harbor  May  20th. 

WvAiT  Rawson,  Lieut.  R.  N.,  H,  M.  SUdge. 


yune  5  (?),  1 87-,  \p.  m. — Arrived  here  with  sledge  Discovery  Ham'l  (?),  Bryant,  and  Regan. 

WvAiT  Rawson. 


i 


yune,  187-. — Took  from  depot :  Biscuit,  29  lbs.  (?) ;  stearine,  9  lbs. ;  teas  (?),  i  y^  lbs. ; 
lime-juice,  —  lbs.;  preserved  meat,  14  tins,  or  32  (?)  lbs. 


-,  16  lbs. 


WvATT  Rawson,  Lt, 


\    i; 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  IJAY  EXPEDITION. 


153 


yune  7,  6.30  a.  m, — Lieut.  R,  R.  Fulford,  arcompanicd  by  Dr.  Coppinger,  L.,  and  8  dogs,  arrived  with 
H.  M.  sledge  Fai/A  from  exploring  Peterman  Fiord. 

WvATT  Rawson. 

j^unf  14,  1876. — Provisions  drawn :  Preserved  mgat,  84  ll)s. ;  ham,  2  ;  biscuit,  14  lbs. ;  stearine,  1 1  lbs. ; 

molasses,  1 2  lbs. 

WvATT  Rawson. 
I 

yi/rtf  21,  1876. — Provisions  drawn  up  to  this  date  from  depot:  Preserved  meat,  "jfi  lbs. ;  biscuits,  56 
lbs.;  stearine,  6^  ;  hams.  2  ;  molasses,  4  gallons;  tea  (?),  2  (?)  lbs. 

WvATT  Rawson. 

yi/ne  22n/f,  1876. — I  intend  leaving,  in  company  with  Dr.  Coppinger,  for  Newman  Hay,  to  meet  Lieut. 
Beaumont  and  party,  who  are  only  provisioned  for  the  27th  of  June.  I  am  takmg  Hans  and  H  dogs  and 
16  days'  provisions. 

Have  drawn  from  depot:  Pemmican  (sweet),  180  lbs.;  pemmican  (plain),  45  lbs.;  biscuit,  42  lbs.; 
stearine,  20  lbs.;  molasses,  16  lbs.;  tea,  3^  lbs.;  lime-juice,  4^3  pt.  (?);  rum  (for  medicinal  use),  3^  galls. 

WvATT  Rawson. 

Provisions  remaining  in  depot  3rd  July,  1876:  Preserved  meat,  529  lbs.;  pemmican,  466  lbs  ;  stearine 
82  lbs.  4  oz,;  tea,  20  lbs.  10  oz.;  lime-juice,  i^  carbs  (?);  molasses,  (nearly)  yi  cask  (?). 

y^'/n^  28,  rt/  1 1.4s  p.  m.:  Dr.  Coppinger  arrived  with  an  8-man  sledge  and  dogs,  .iccompanied  by  Hans, 
carrying  two  of  Lieut.  Beaumont's  sledge  crew,  with  scurvy,  C.  I'aul,  A  B.,  L.  Jenkins,  carpenter  mate. 

Reginald  B,  Fulkoru,  Z/. 


1st  yit/y,  7  a.  m. — Arrived  at  Hall's  Rest.     Lieut.  Beaumont,  Alexander  Grey  and 


930,  arrived,  Lieut.  Rawson,  accompanied  by  Hans.  They  brought  in  the  8-man  sledge  drawn  by  the 
dog  ,  on  which  were  Peter  Craig. 

Kxpendea  besides  (?)  used  (?)  3  July  .md  12  :  Preserved  meat,  2  lbs  ;  stearine,  2  lbs.;  biscuit,  100  lbs.; 
tea,  I  lb.  I  oz.i  pemmican,  93  lbs.;  lime-juice. 

Between  21  June  and  3  July,  1876:  Preserved  meat(?),  98  lbs. ;  American  meat  (?),  40  lbs.;  stearine, 

8  lbs.;  biscuit,  53  lbs.;  tea,  i  lb.  i^  oz.;  ham,  i  lb.;  lime-juice,  3^  galls.;  molas.ses  (?), 

R.  B.  FuLFORn,  Lt. 

Expended  between  July  12  and  July  19 — i,  from  depot  (?) :  Preserved  meat,  1 20  lbs.  (4  lbs.  bad) ;  biscuit, 
70  lbs.;  tea,  2  Ib.s.;  ham  (2),  24  lbs. 

In  depot,  July  20;  Preserved  meat,  316  lbs. ;  pemmican, 371  lbs.;  biscuit,  165  lbs.  ;  tea,  17  lbs.;  ham_ 

9  (108  lbs.) ;  preserved  meat  and  vegetables,  4  lbs.;  molasses,  4  doz.  (?)  casks  (?). 

Provisions  drawn,  up  to  July  27,  1876  (?):  Pemmican,  30  (?)  lbs.;  jjreserved  meat,  ic6  lbs.;  biscuit 
106  lbs. ;  stearine,  20  lbs.;  tea,  4  lbs. ;  ham,  4  (hams),  48  lbs. 

Provisions,  in  depot,  July  28:  Pemmican,  340  lbs.;  preserved  meat,  2r8  lbs.;  biscuit,  1,545  lbs.;  tea. 

13  lbs. ;  hams,  5  (60  lbs.);  molasses,  very  Utilf.. 

L,  A,  Beaumont,  L(, 


, , 


.il;l 


I  I'll 


Stowed  in  the  house,  August  4,  1876  .  14J4  ca.sks  (?)  of  bread.  American;  3/^  cask  (?)  of  meat,  Amer- 
ican ;  i/^  cask  (?)  of  meal,  Indian  coin  (?),  Amerijan;  i  case  and  6  packets  (?)  (1  lb.)  farina,  American  (?), 
(56  lbs.);  9  tins  preserved  meat,  68  lbs  ;  6  cans  (?)  pemmican  (35  lbs.  (?),  American,  +  10  lbs.),  28  (?); 

10  lbs.  tea;  2  6-men  tents,  with  gage  (?);  2 (?)  cooking-stoves,  complete,  but (?);  2  lamps,  i 

stearine  and  i  spirit  (?) ;  3  pemmican-choppers ;  6  water-bottles  (?)  (out  of  repair) ;  i  saw  ;  5  (?)  snow-knives; 


li 

I'  b 

li 

h 


164  TUK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

3  shovels;  ami  i  spoon;  i  ladle;  i  pickax  (no  (?)  handle);  i  hammer  (American);  i  pair  of  shoes 

(?)  and  I  ohl  (?)  hoot  (?),  (American)  (?) ;  i  case  of  pistol  ammunition  (?),  American  ;  i  Sharps  rifle ;  i  mag- 
azine; —  bags  of  shot  (American) ;  7  oilskin  coats;   i  8-man  triangle;   1  8man  bottom  (?). 

Provisions  from  Disuwery:  1^  galls,  rum  (in  3-gall.  tins  (?));  5  lbs.  of  sugar;  12  lbs.  of  stearine;  3 
boxes  matches  (right-hand  corner  window). 

'lent  furniture:  2  Lower  robes (5-man);  i  coverlet  (s-man);  i  waterproof  (5-man) ;  i  canvas  floor-cloth. 

Miscellaneous  articles:  2   Punches  (vols.);  3  books,  Foul  Play,  Eulales  (?),  Albert  Nyanza;  i   box 

English  ammunition,  45  Snider  and  24  gun;  i  box  — : soap,  with ,  &c.;  2  8-man-tent  guys;  2 

8-man-tent  spreaders;  i  box  gla.ss  fla.sks  (American);  empty  spirit  can;  2  (?)  galls;  2  (?)  galls;  i  No.  9  flag; 

1  old  drawing-block,  few  leaves;  1  g.  (?)  trap,  good  working  order;  i  cxtrang  (?)  old  pair  Aa.  (?)  boots; 

2  Snider  rifles. 

Outside  house,  west  side:  i  cask  lime-juice  (American);  1  barrel  of  pork;  2  provisions  breakers 
(American) ;  3  cork  cushions;  old  iron,  assorted;  3  rolls  bar  lead;  i  roll  insulator  wire;  4  dredges;  crowbars 
at/  libitum. 

South  side:  12-man  sledge  (with  boat  bottom);  5-man  sledge  (trough  and  bottom) ;  4  8-man  (?)  cushion 
bottoms;  2  12-foot  oars  (t 5-foot  ice-boat);  2  paddles;  2  sail,  (la-man  and  8-man,  new);  5  8-man  bottom ; 

3  hatchets. 

North  side :  1  20-foot  ice-boat,  complete. 

L.  A.  Beaumont,  ZA,  R.  N. 

[Her  Majesty's  sledges  Stephenson  and  Alert,  12  May,  '76,  at  Boat  Camp,  south  shore,  Newman  Bay.] 
The  above-named  sledges,  with  party  numbering  ten,  arrived  here  at  10  a.  m.,  Wednesday,  the  loth  May, 
1876,  having  crossed  the  Brevoort  JV-ninsula  from  Repulse  Bay  via  the  (Jap  Valley,  having  visited  and 
removed  record  from  Hall's  cairn. 

Newman  Bay  on  the  way.  Bound  for  Polaris  (?)  Bay  via  Newman  (?)  Bay  and  the  south  overland 
route.  Been  (?)  snow  (?)  bound  up  to  the  present  time.  We  have  examined  the  boats  an<l  tents  left  here 
by  the  U.  S.  North  Polar  Exjiedition,  and  are  about  transporting  with  us  to  Polaris  Bay  such  instruments 
and  documents  as  we  can  carry.  We  can  find  only  7  lbs.  oatmeal,  i  in  the  tent  by  the  mouth  of  the  ravine, 
20  lbs.  of  biscuit  in  the  lockers  of  the  whale-boat  which  lies  on  the  shingle.  We  find  that  the  whaler  can 
easily  be  repaired  so  as  to  be  a  good,  serviceable  boat,  and  we  leave  attached  to  the  cylinder  a  box  of  copper 
tacks,  with  the  aid  of  which  and  a  piece  of  canvas  or  oilcloth  or  hide  (all  available),  the  damaged  part  in 
the  bluflf  of  her  starboard  bow  can  be  made  good.  We  cannot  discover  more  than  one  seat.  From  this 
cairn  the  tent  bears  S.  by  W.  about  400  yards  [366"'],  the  whale-boat  SW.  by  S.  about  100  yards  [91""],  the 
canvas  boat  SW.  by  W.  20  yards  [18"'].  We  find  the  6  oars  of  the  canvas  boat.  We  removed  the  oars  and 
placed  them  on  the  SW.  larboard  side*  of  the  whale-boat,  not  being  able  to  find  any  oars  belonging  to 
whale-boat.  We  hope  to  start  to-day  for  Polaris  Bay.  H.  M.  S.  Alert  has  been  wintering  at  Floe-berg 
Beach,  lat.  82°  27'  N.,  and  H.  M.  S.  Diswery  at  Bellott  Harbor,  in  lat.  81°  43'. 

R.  W.  CoppiNGER,  M.  D.,  Surgeon. 

[31  Mch.,  1876.     H.  M.  S.  Discovery  at  Bellot  Harbor.     Lat.  81°  44'  north,  long.  65°  03'  W.] 
This  paper  is  deposited  by  a  sledge  party  under  Lieut.  R.  Archer,  of  the  Discovery  who  came  over  to 

see  the  state  of  the  provisions  in  depot  here.    The  things  seem  to  be  good  and  serviceable. 

The  following  things  were  found  here:  1,125  lbs.  pern mican  (yi  sweet);  1,152  lbs.  preserved  meat ; 

24  bbls.  bread ;  3  casks  pork ;  2  casks  hams ;  2  bags  bread ;  2  cases  farina ;  2  casks  lime-juice ;  i  cask 

molasses. 

An  observatory  rather   dilapidated.     Some  few  articles  of  clothing.    Two   stoves  and  a  few  other 

sundries.     We  crossed  straight  over  from  Bellott  Harbor  to  Cape  Lupton  and  found  the  ice  better  in  the 

middle  but  diflicult  travelling  at  the  sides. 

RoBT.  H.  Archer,  Lt. 

Start  on  our  return  to  the  ship  to-day,  April  and.    We  leave  in  the  observatory  10  rations  of  bread 

and  45  rations  of  stearine. 

R.  H.  A. 

yuly,  1876. — [Letter-press  copy  illegible.] 


1  ! 


THK  LADY  FttANKLiN  BAY  EXPBDITIOK. 


155 


Atarch,  1876. — [F-etter-prcss  copy  illegible.] 

Lieut.  Fulfonl  and  Sub- Lieut.  Conybeare,  with  18  men  and  two  ice-boats,  arrived  here  at  2  a.m.  of  the 
12th  May,  1876,  having  left  H.  M.  S.  Disawery  at  8  \^.  ni.  of  the  7th  inst.  Captain  Stephenson,  Mr.  Hart 
(naturalist),  Henry  Hetty,  and  Hans  Christian,  Ksquimaux,  with  dog-sledge,  arriveil  at  2  a.  m.  of  the  12th  of 
May,  having  left  Disanrry  at  8  p.  ni.  of  the  loth  inst. 

Dr.  Coppinger,  with  Goo.  Kmmerson  and  8  men,  in  two  sledges,  arrived  here  from  Refu^e  Harbor 
at  7.30  p.  m.  of  the  ijth  of  May,  1876.  Dr.  Coppinger  parted  company  with  Lieuts.  Ikaumont  and  Rawson 
on  the  5  May  at  Cape  Stanton,  their  |)arty  being  all  well.  Geo.  W.  Emmerson  left  H.  M.  S.  Adt^t  at  l-'loe- 
berg  Ik'.ich  on  the  2nd  inst.,  in  lat.  80"'  27'  N.,  long.  61°  22'  \V. 

Captain  Stephenson,  Sub- Lieut.  Conybeare,  Mr.  Hart,  and  party  of  27  men  left  this  harbor  at  8. 10  a.  m. 
of  the  17  th  May,  1876,  for  H.  M.  S.  Disanu-ry,  Discovery  Bay.     All  well. 

Lieut.  Fulford,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Coppinger,  2  men,  and  dog-sledge,  leave  at  10  a.  m.  this  day,  the 
17th  May,  for  Newman  Bay,  with  depot  for  Lieut.  Beaumont. 

R.  B.  Fui,K)Ri»,  Lieut,,  R,  N. 

Polaris  Bay,  May  17,  1876. 

yune  yi. — Lieut.  Rawson  arrived,  with  party  of  4  men,  having  left  Lieut.  Beaumont  about  forty  miles 
along  the  coast,  NE.  from  Repulse  Harbor.  Lieut.  Rawson  was  sent  back  from  the  advance  party  with 
J.  J.  Hand,  A.  B.,  sufTering  from  scurvy,  who  died  the  night  of  his  arrival  here. 

"yune  7,  '76,  Lieut.  Fulford,  Dr.  Coppinger,  and  party  returned  from  I'eterman  Fiord ;  they  advanced 
to  a  distance  of  30  miles,  but  were'  eventually  stopped  by  glacial  ice. 

yune  22. — Lieut.  Rawson  and  Dr.  Coppinger,  with  dog-sledge,  proceeded  in  scirch  of  Lieut.  Beau- 
mont and  party  (due  at  Hall's  Rest,  Polaris  Bay,  June  isth).  Lieut.  Rawson  met  the  party  in  Newman  Bay 
June  25th,  the  whole  of  them  being  sick  with  scurvy,  4  having  to  be  carried  on  the  sledge. 

yune  29///. — Dr.  Coppinger,  with  Wm.  Jenkins,  Car  Ute,  and  Chas.  W.  Paul,  A.  B.,  on  dog-sledj.'  ■ 
arrived  at  Hall's  Rest  at  12.30  a.  m.     Charles  W.  Paul,  A.  B.,  died  that  afternoon  at  6. 1 5  p.  m. 

yuly  ist. — Lieuts.  Beaumont  and  Rawson,  with  remainder  of  party  (two  carried),  arrived  safely  at 
Hall's  Rest,  Polaris  Bay. 

yuiy  12M. — Lieut.  Fulford,  with  dog-sledge,  proceeded  to  H.  M.  S.  Discmrry,  Discovery  Bay  (Bellot 
Harbour). 

yuly  \^th. — Captain  Stephenson,  with  party  of  6,  arrived  from  the  ship. 

yuly  29///. — Intend  leaving  with  Lieut.  Rawson  and  7  men  for  Disiorcry  to-day.  All  invalids  doing 
well.     Lieut.  Beaumont,  with  remainder  of  party,  hope  to  follow  in  a  week. 

*  H.  F.  Stephknshn. 


ilrl; 


^';i 


Aug.  1th. — Start  to-day  for  Discovery  Bay,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Coppinger  and  remainder  of  party 
(7);  have  waited  since  Friday  (4th)  on  account  of  the  ice  and  bad  weather.  Great  quantity  of  ice  has 
gone  down  the  strait  during  the  last  gale. 

L.  A.  Beaumont,  R,  N.,  U. 

March  28M,  1876. — [Letter-press  copy  illegible.] 

H.    F.   SXEPHENSOf. 


,i 


March  28t/i,  1876. — Received  news  of  Alert  on  2sth  March,  1876.  She  wintered  in  the  pack  off  west 
coast  of  Robeson  Channel,  lat.  82°  27'  N.,  long.  61  ^  18'  15"  W.,  close  to  the  .shore.  All  well.  Three  sledges 
will  follow  the  north  coast  of  Grant's  Land,  now  trending  to  the  NVV.,  and  this  party  endeavours  to  proceed 
to  the  northward  over  the  ice.  Parties  from  the  Discovery  will  explore  the  north  coast  of  Greenland  and 
Lady  Franklin's  Straits. 

H.  F.  S. 


' . 


156  THK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

*  Appendix  No.  41. — Dr.  Pavy^  s  orders  to  carry  provisions  to  the  Greenland  coast. 

Fort  Concikr,  (iKinnell  Land,  March  4,  1882. 

Sir:  Von  will  leave  this  station  March  5,  at  8  a.  m.,  or  as  soon  thereafter  as  the  weather  will  permit,  to 
lay  out  a  depot  (K)  on  the  Greenland  coast. 

Sergeant  David  Linn  will  accompany  you,  and  you  will  use  fur  this  purpose  the  dog-sledge  ////<;,  with 
Eskimo  Jens  Edward  for  driver.  The  details  for  the  trip  will  be  arranged  by  you,  but  a  list  of  all  dead 
weights  must  be  furnished  prior  to  your  starting. 

There  will  be  taken,  from  this  station,  one  case  cranberry  sauce,  one  case  milk,  two  sacks  hard  bread 
(126  pounds),  one  box  containing  butter,  pepper,  roast  and  corned  beef,  and,  if  your  <leid  weights  allow, 
a  sack  of  pemmican.  At  depot  U  the  sack  of  pemmican  will  be  left  and  as  much  bread  taken  in  its  place 
as  you  judge  can  be  carried. 

The  depot  will  be  established  on  the  Greenland  coast  as  far  north  towards  Cape  Sumner  as  can  be 
reached  in  one  day's  march  from  depot  B.  The  <lepot  will  be  left  on  land  at  such  place  as  can  be  seen 
readily  by  a  party  traveling  along  the  coast,  and  a  red  Hag  will  be  planted  on  a  prominent  point  near  it. 

In  returning,  you  will  leave  at  depot  E  all  dog-food  and  rations  which  shall  not  be  indispensable  to  your 
safe  and  comfortable  return  to  depot  )A. 

The  dogs  may  be  fed,  going  and  coming,  from  dejjot  B.  Hard  bread,  baked  beans,  and  tea  can  be  used 
therefrom,  but  no  other  articles  except  in  case  of  necessity. 

I  inclose  a  map.  which  will  be  returned,  with  your  route  from  Cape  Beechey  and  the  locality  noted 
thereon. 

The  sledge  journal,  with  a  brief  report  covering  rJl  essential  points,  will  be  transmitted  to  me  within 
forty-eight  hours  after  your  return. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greki.v, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Expedition. 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Paw,  U.  S.  A. 


Appendix  No.  42. — Dr.  Pavy^s  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  41. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  nth,  1882. 

Sir  :  In  accordance  with  your  orders,  the  sth  of  March,  at  7.45  a.  m.,  I  left  Fort  Conger.  Sergt.  D.  Linn 
and  the  Greenlander,  Jens  Edward,  accompanied  mc;  the  last  named  driving  the  dog-sledge  Lilla. 

At  1 1.45  a.  m.  we  reached  Cape  Murchison.  (Temperature  at  the  time,  —49.4°  [—45.2°  C],  the  mini- 
mum marked,  since  the  last  setting,  —52.2°  [—46.8°  C],  and  at  12.30  before  leaving  the  Cape, —54'" 

1-47.8°  C.]) 

At  4.4s  p.  m.  we  were  at  the  snow-house  of  Shift  Rudder  Bay.  Temperature  at  7.35  p.  m.,  —35° 
f— 37.2°C.].     Wind  SSE. ;  stormy,  with  snow. 

The  next  day,  the  6th  of  March,  being  stormy,  I  did  not  deem  it  prudent  to  travel,  and,  therefore,  remained 
in  the  house.  During  a  part  of  the  time,  to  save  coal,  I  used  my  Eskimo  lamps,  and  obtained  a  temperature 
of  -f  26°  [—3.3°  C],  when  the  glass  outside  marked  —34°  [-36.7°  C.].  At  3.20  p.  m.  my  chronometer  had 
stopped.     I  then  set  it  by  the  watch  of  Sergt.  Linn. 

Temperature  of  the  6th  of  March:  Minimum  during  the  night,  —36°  [—37.8°  C.].  At  7  a.  m.,  —28.6"* 
[—33.7°  C.];  wind  NNE.,  blowing  a  gale.  At  12  m.,  —34°  [—36.7°  C.];  wind  NNE.,  blowing  a  gale.  At  7 
p.m.,  —36.3  [  — 37-9°C.];  wind  NNE.,  blowing  a  gale. 

The  7th  of  March  I  woke  up  at  4  a.  m.  At  7  a.  m.  we  started,  and  at  10  a.  m.  we  left  the  ice-foot  oft 
Cape  Beechey.  From  the  shore,  to  about  J^  of  a  mile  in  the  straits,  the  ice  is  of  a  very  heavy  kind,  com- 
posed of  boulders,  hummocks,  or  rubble  debris  superposed  or  raised  on  their  edges.  Since  last  fall  the  ice 
of  this  locality  has  changed.  At  10.35  '''■  "i-  ^*'^  ^^ve  clear  of  these  difficulties,  having  reached  an  extensive 
floe  ot  paleocrystic  ice  over  which  the  travel  was  excellent.  When  about  2  miles  from  the  shore  left  track 
of  the  sledge  Antoinette  and  took  an  easterly  course  towards  Cape  Sumner.  At  12  m.  (travelling  still  excel- 
lent) we  stopped  for  the  purpose  of  melting  ice,  but.  to  my  great  annoyance,  I  discovered  that  the  gallon  tin 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIX  HAY  KXPEIHTIOX. 


157 


can  containing  alrohf)!  had  leaked,  and  that  the  reserved  oni.  nad  slipped  from  between  the  lashings  of  the 
sled  at  some  point  of  the  journey,  that  we  were  in  the  impossibility  to  prec  isi.-.  Jens  walked  ba(  k  for  about  a 
mile,  but  was  unsuccessful  in  finding  the  lost  s|iirit  of  wine. 

Shortly  after  i  |).  m.  we  resumed  our  march,  travelling  over  small  palcocrystii  floes  and  hummo<  ky  ice 
of  this  year's  formation.  Until  3  p.  m,  the  travelling  may  be  said  to  have  been  fair.  After  3  p.  m.,  when 
about  6  miles  from  the  Greenland  coast,  the  floes  became  smaller  and  the  hummocks  heavier;  in  a  wonl.the 
travelling  more  difficult.  Two  hours  more  of  working  and  hard  i)ushing  behind  the  sleilge  brought  us  to 
about  2  miles  from  the  coast,  where  we  raised  the  tent  ami  camped  at  5  p.  m.  1  was  then  just  in  view  of  a 
large  gap  in  the  cliffs  at  the  point  marke<l  on  my  maji. 

This  locality  will  easily  be  found,  being  distinctly  visible  even  from  Cape  Bee<  hey.  Durini;  the  day 
at  no  time  I  could  .see  (on  the  (Irinnell  Land  coast)  further  north  than  halfway  between  Wrangcll  Day  and 
Lincoln,  and  that  at  times  only  through  a  misty  atmosphere.  To  the  south  we  could  see  the  coast  as  far  as 
Cape  Lieber. 

On  the  Greenland  side  the  view  could  only  embrace  Polaris  Promentory  [su\,  with  Cape  .S'ltnner  to  the 
north. 

Temperature  of  the  day  :  Minimum  during  the  night,  —40.7  [  —  40.4°  C.].  7  a.  m.,  —35.3  f— 37.4^  C.| ; 
wind,  NK.  12  m., —28.0°  [—33.3' C.];  wind,  NK.  5  p.  m., —38.5  [—39.2" C.J;  wind,  NK.  Wind  blow- 
ing a  gale  all  day. 

March  ^tli. — In  wakening  up  in  the  morning  I  found  that  my  chronometer  and  the  watch  of  Sergt.  Linn 
had  stopped.  The  weather  was  thick,  with  a  sharp  breeze.  Assuming  the  time  to  be  si.x  o'clock  I  c  ooked 
breakfast,  and  at  8  a,  m.,  leaving  the  tent  pitched,  we  started  with  a  load  of  provisions  to  be  deposited  on 
the  Greenland  shore. 

At  9  a.  m.  the  strength  of  the  wind  had  increased  to  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  per  hour  [6.7  to  8.9'"  per 
second].     VVe  were  in  a  storm  of  drifting  snow  from  the  ENK. 

At  12  m.,  after  having  travelled  over  very  heavy  ice,  we  reached  the  coast  at  the  gap  above  mentioned, 
deposited  the  provision,  except  the  sack  of  ])cmmican  (with  the  addition  of  2  cans  of  beef,  2  cans  of  beans, 
and  2  of  milk  from  my  own  stores),  behind  a  large  eratic  \sh\  block  about  midways  between  the  sides  of  the 
gap.  This  block,  elevated  about  thirty  or  forty  feet  [9  or  i2"'|  above  the  ice  foot,  is  of  a  bright  yellow  color, 
forming  a  striking  contra.st  with  the  slaty,  devonic  limestone  of  the  neighborhood. 

Over  the  depot  I  planted  the  signal  flag,  and  with  the  emjity  sledge  returned  to  the  locality  where  the 
tent  had  remained  pitched. 

The  weather  was  so  thick  that  when  on  the  coast  we  could  scarcely  see  further  than  about  a  (|uarter 
of  a  mile. 

The  storm  at  3  p.  m.  had  abated  some.     We  then  packed  our  sledge,  and,  following  th  ■  u'c 

the  preceding  day,  we  arrived  at  7  p.  m.  at  about  three  miles  from  Cape  Heechey. 

My  intention  was  to  reach  the  snow-house  that  evening,  but  Sergt.  Linn  being  too  tired  t;  proceed 
further,  i  camped. 

Temperature  of  the  ilay :  Minimum  during  the  night,  —42.0  [  — 41.1 '  C.J.  7  a.  m.,  —33.4  [  — 3(>.3  C.j ; 
wind  NE.     2  p.  m.,  —28.2  [— 33.4°C.];  wind  NK.     7  p.  m.,  —37.0  1—38.3"  C.j;  wind  NK. 

March  c^th. — The  grey  dawn  was  just  breaking,  and  I  had  slept  very  comfortably  all  night,  when  a 
sensation  of  heat  against  my  back  woke  me  up.  At  first  I  thought  that  one  of  the  dogs  had  crawled  in  the 
tent;  but  I  soon  found  out  that  the  heat  proceeded  from  the  body  of  our  driver  Jens,  who,  by  kindness, 
thinking  that  Sergeant  Linn  was  sick,  had  preferred  to  sleep  out  of  the  bag  without  any  covering  than  to 
discomfort  him.  The  good  man  escaped  with  only  one  toe  frost-bitten,  and  that  bv  a  temperature  —41.7 
[-40.9°  C.J. 

Not  being  able  to  cook  breakfast  we  started  at  6  a.  m.,  and  at  seven  reacht'  '  le  ice-foot  of  Cape 
Beechey.  At  9  a.  m.  we  entered  the  snow-house  after  feeding  the  dogs  and  cooking  breakfast;  at  12  m. 
we  resumed  our  homeward  journey,  reaching  Fort  Conger  at  6.40  p.  m. 

Temperature :   Minimum  during  the  night,  —41.7  [—40.9°  C.J.    At  1 2  m.,  —31.0  [—35.0°  C.j.    At  Cape 
Murchison  the  minimum  had  been  —35.0  [— 37.2°C.j.    At  the  time  we  passed,  3.30  p.m., —31.0  J— 35.o''C. |. 
The  assistance  rendered  by  Sergt.  Linn  during  this  journey  has  been  of  great  help  to  the  a(  complish- 
ment  of  the  undertaking.     The  services  of  Jens  are  invaluable. 
I  am,  verv  respectfully,  your  obt.  .servant, 

Octave  Paw, 
Act.  Asst.  Surgeon,  U,  S.  A. 


il 


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158 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


yournal  of  a  s/eiige  Jotirmy  to  carry  prm'isions  to  the  Gretnland  coasi. 


Reached  Cape  Murchison  at  11.45  •"*•  '"•>  •■>"i'  ''i*^  snow-house 

When  burning 


Miinh  t,tfi. — Left  Ft.  Conger  7.45  a.m. 
at  Shift  Rudder  Bay  4.45  p.  ni, 

Manh  6. — Wind  blowing.     Remain  all  day  in  the  house.     Chronometer  stojiped. 
Eskimo  lam|)s  temperature  raised  to  +26°  [—3.3°  C.J;  glass  outsiile  — 34"  [—36.,'"'  C.J. 

March  7. — Woke  uj)  4  a.  m.  Started  at  7  a.  m.  At  10  a.  m.  left  ice-foot  off  Cape  Heechey.  Ice 
changed  since  the  fall.  At  10.35  clear  of  the  difticulty  and  travelling  on  a  good  paleocrystic  floe.  At 
12  in.  stopped;  found  one  can  of  alcohol  leaking  and  the  reserved  one  lost.  At  3  p.  m.,  at  about  6 
miles  from  tiie  Greenland  shore,  floes  bad.  Raise  the  tent  at  5  p.  m.,  about  two  miles  from  the  coa.st. 
To-day  wind  blowing  hard. 

March  8. — Chronometer  and  watch  stopi)ed.  Weather  thick ;  wintl  blowing.  At  6  a.  in.  cooked 
breakfast.  At  8  a.  m.  left  the  tent  pitched  and  started  with  provisions.  Ice  exceedingly  rough ;  very 
heavy  storm  all  day.  After  9  a.  ni.  storm  very  heavy,  1 5  to  20  miles  per  hour  [6.7  to  8.9'"  per  secondj,  from 
K.  N.  K.  At  1 2  m.  reached  the  coast  and  left  depot ;  returneil  to  the  tent  at  2.30  p.  m.  At  3  p.  m.  were 
travelling  homeward.     At  7  p.  m.,  about  three  miles  from  Cape  Heechey,  camped  on  the  ice. 

starch  f)th. — Jens  has  slept  out  of  the  bag.  At  six  a.  m.  we  started  without  cooking  breakfast.  At 
7  reached  the  ice-foot  at  Cape  Heechey.  At  9  arrived  at  snow-house,  fed  dogs,  and  cooked  breakfast. 
Started  at  1 2  m.     Arrived  at  Fort  Conger  at  6.40  p.  m. 

OtTAVK  Taw, 
Jet.  Ass/.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 


Appkndix  No.  43, — Sers^eatit  BrainartVs  orders  to  moir  boat  to  Greenland  coast. 

Fort  Conukr,  Grinnki.i,  Lank,  March  13,  1882, 

Sk.rc.kant:  Weather  permitting,  you  will  leave  this  station  at  7  a.m.,  March  14,  to  establish  dejjot  E 
in  Newman  Hay.  Sergeants  Linn,  Kalston,  and  Elison,  Privates  Hiederbick,  Connell,  Schneider,  and 
Whisler  will  form  your  party.  The  English  eight-man  sledge,  with  the  boat  Discovery  and  its  contents,  will 
be  hauled  from  its  present  location  near  Distant  Cape,  together  with  such  stores  for  depot  E  from  this  station 
as  may  be  furnished  you. 

At  depot  B  two  sacks  of  pemmican  will  be  left,  and  in  its  place  will  be  taken  the  bag  of  sup|>lies  cached 
about  three  miles  east  of  Cape  Heechey.  You  will  travel  <lirectly  east  across  Robeson  Channel  until  ne.ir  the 
Greenland  coast ;  then,  inclining  to  the  northeast,  you  will  deposit  the  boat  in  the  "  gap  "  where  depot  E  is 
now  established.  The  su[iplies,  forming  old  de|)ot  E,  will  be  taken,  and  will  be  deposited  with  all  others  in 
hand  at  a  place  to  be  selected  by  you  in  Newman  Bay.  In  case  you  enter  Newman  Hay  near  the  center  it 
will  be  best  to  proceed  to  the  land  near  Gap  Valley. 

At  the  point  where  the  depot  is  established  a  snow  house  will  be  built  or  excavated  from  a  snow-bank, 
and  a  flag  left  flying  over  near  the  depot.  Six  days'  rations  will  be  taken  on  leaviiiL;  depot  H.  Bread, 
cotVee,  butter,  beans,  and  corned  beef  can  be  used  from  ilepot  B. 

Meteorological  observations,  as  usual,  will  be  made  by  Sergeant  Ralston. 

You  are  cautioned  particularly  against  traveling  in  stormy  or  windy  weather.  You  must  frequently 
(juestioii  your  party  as  to  their  condition, and  avoid  overwork.  A  four-man  sleeping-bag  will  be  taken  from 
here,  one  two-man  bag  from  depot  A,  and  also  one  from  depot  H;  these  bags  must  be  returned  to  their 
respective  stations.  A  careful  sledge  journal  will  be  kept,  which,  with  a  detailetl  report,  must  be  submitted  to 
me,  in  writing,  two  d.iys  after  your  return.  The  time  of  all  halls  and  starts  will  be  noted  as  well  iis  the  character 
of  the  ice  passed  over  in  the  interval.  All  watches  will  be  compared  daily,  and  the  result  noted.  The  men 
will  serve  in  turn  as  cooks,  and  but  sixteen  ounces  (one  pint)  of  alcohol  will  be  allowed  for  each  meal.  AH 
articles  of  food  which  you  can  spare  on  your  return  will  be  left  at  depot  E,  ami  the  wall-tent  will  be  left 
carefully  cached  at  Cape  Beechey.  1  trust  your  speedy  and  safe  return  may  be  soon  noted.  You  must 
bear  in  mind  that  you  start  in  a  temperature  ol  about  —40"  (—40°  C.J,  and  at  a;i  almost  unparalleled  early 

season  of  the  year. 

A.  W.  Gkkki.v, 
Fiiif  J.ieiif.,  I'iflh  Cavalry,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant, 
Sergeant  I).  L.  Hrainard,  Commanding  Expedition, 

U,  S.  Army. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


[.ist  of  sfoKS  for  lii-poi  /.'. 


159 


6  cans  extract  of  lieef  (to  lie  obtained  at  depot  II). 

1  can  of  desiccatvil  jxitatoes  (to  t>c  obtained  at  de|)ol  li). 

5  |tain  Iar|;e  snow-shoes  (three  to  lie  obtained  ut  (K'|H>t  II). 

2  45-lb.  cans  lime-juice,  jieniinican  (one  to  be  obtained  at  de|iot 

H). 

6  cans  extract  of  mutton, 
34  cons  milk. 

10  ,;-ll>.  cans  butter, 
50  lbs,  bacon. 


1  Iki^  l.t.  I.ockwood  rations  (to  be  obtained  ,<  miles  vast  of 

fajie  Ik'i'chey). 
24  rranlieiry  suiicc.  ) 

4  '4-lxi\es  lilack  peiipcr. 
12  liKiuiidcins corned licef. 

2  lijiK"  ''read  (126  lbs). 
4  2-|Miund  cans  ro:ist  beef. 
12  ,;  pound  cans  oi  Imtlor. 
2  oars  for  boat  (to  be  obtained  at  Ca|ic  Becchey) 


I'u  be  obtained  at  dv|>ot  K,  in  gap 
4  miles  SW.  of  Cape  .Sunmcr. 


Appendix  No.  44. — Sergeant  Hrainard'' s  report  on  trip  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  yj. 

Fort  C()N(;kr,  CiRinnki.i.  Land,  March  21,  1882. 

Sir:  I  have  llie  honor  to  submit  to  you  the  following  report  of  a  sleilge  journey,  (lerforined  under  my 
direction,  for  the  purpose  of  placing  the  boat  Discorcry,  together  with  a  few  supplies,  on  the  (ireenland  coast 
in  the  vicinity  of  Newman  Bay. 

In  compliance  with  your  instructions,  dated  March  13,  1882,  1  left  the  station  at  6.25  a.  in.  the  follow- 
ing <l.iy,  accompanied  by  Sergeants  Linn,  Ralston,  and  Klison,  Privates  IJiederbick,  Connell,  Schneider, 
and  Whisler. 

We  reacheil  the  large  Knglish  sledge  containing  the  Dnawcry  at  Distant  Cape,  where  it  had  previously 
been  |)laced,  at  8,07  a.  ni.,  and  loading  the  supplies  brought  us  by  Sergeant  Rice  with  the  dog-team,  were 
again  on  our  course  at  8. 1 5  a.  ni. 

Although  our  load  scarcely  exceeded  one  hundred  and  twenty-live  pounds  to  each  man,  yet  so  great 
was  the  friction  of  the  broad  runners  on  the  crisp  snow,  that  it  was  advanced  only  with  t!ie  greatest  ditlu  ulty, 
with  freipient  and  repeated  halts  for  rest.  Our  progress  became  so  slow  and  unsatisfactory  that  I  dc<  ided 
to  cache  the  two  sacks  of  jiemniican  at  a  point  on  the  coast  about  one-half  mile  north  of  Water-course  Hay. 
The  sacks  were  carefully  covered  with  snow  and  a  small  cairn  left  to  indicate  the  spot.  We  reached  depot 
A  at  Cape  Murchison  at  1 1.15  a.  m.,  and  halted  for  a  few  moments  to  .secure  the  sleeping  bag  and  to  jiar- 
take  of  a  light  lunch.  Soon  after  crossing  St.  Patrick  Hay  some  of  the  men  began  to  show  signs  of  the 
excessive  strain  to  which  tncy  were  being  subjected,  and  to  which  they  were  unaccustomed,  but  to  stop  was 
impossible,  as  we  had  sleeping  accommodations  for  only  six  men ;  the  other  bag  for  the  party  being  at  Cape 
Beechey. 

The  snow-house  (depot  B)  was  reached  at  6.05  p.  m.  Tiie  party  was  nearly  exhausted  front  the 
severe  toil  of  the  day,  and  all  complained  of  lameness  in  their  lower  limbs.  The  snow  was  (juite  deep  and 
just  strong  enough  to  break  under  our  weight  when  we  thought  it  was  going  to  sustain  us.  On  the  whole, 
however,  I  considered  the  traveling  fair.     Minimum  temperature,  —53.5  [  —  47.5"  C.j. 

The  following  morning  (March  15)  found  us  again  in  the  traces  by  7  o'clock.  We  continued  up  the 
coast  to  Cape  Beechey,  where  we  entered  on  the  floe  at  1 2,30  p.  m.  In  the  belt  of  rubble-icc  near  the  shore 
we  were  detained  for  a  few  minutes  in  relashing  our  boat  to  the  sledge  from  which  it  had  bee  ome 
loosened. 

The  traveling  was  wretched,  the  cold  intense,  and  our  load  dragged  heavily.  The  men  iiecanie  so 
tired  that  whenever  a  halt  was  called  they  would  at  once  (|uit  the  drag-ropes  and  prostrate  themselves  on 
the  »now,  notwithstanding  the  low  temperature.  Halted  at  4. 1 5  p.  m.,  and  pitched  our  tent  under  the  lee 
of  a  large  floe-berg,  which  extended  i>roniises  of  protection  from  the  wintls  which  were  liable  to  spring  up 
during  the  night. 

Schneider  complainetl  bitterly  of  soreness  in  his  joints,  together  with  rheumatic  pains,  which  cau.sed  me 
no  little  anxiety  iluring  the  night.  Minimum  temperature,  —61.0  [  — 5i.7'C,J.  The  next  morning  (March  16) 
his  condition  was  greatly  aggravated,  lie  could  scarcely  walk,  and  his  gums  were  badly  inflameil  and 
swollen.  Fearing  that  these  wee  scorbutic  symptoms,  I  directed  Hiederbick  to  accomi)any  him  back  to 
the  snow  house  at  depot  H,  and  to  there  await  our  return  from  tiie  (Ireenland  coast,  meanwhile  using  such 
stores  as  were,  in  his  judgment,  necessary  to  improve  Schneider's  condition. 


)■:*■ 


K 
IS 


m 


m 


•5; 


:.   (11 
1  ;    (:■ 


160 


THB-LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I 


As  only  six  members  remained  to  the  party  it  was  necessary  to  relieve  ourselves  of  a  portion  of  our 
weight.  So  cacheing  90  pounds  of  pemmirpn,  48  pounds  of  milk,  and  14  pounds  of  desiccated  potatoes,  we 
were  again  on  the  road  by  9  o'clock.  The  sufferings  of  the  men  from  the  effects  of  thirst  became  so  great 
th:it  I  oiJercd  a  halt  at  12.30  p.  ni.,  for  the  purpose  of  melting  ice.  This  consumed  forty  minutes,  but  the 
party  felt  so  greatly  refreshed,  and  worked  so  cheerfully  and  vigorously,  that  I  believe  the  halt  was  economy 
ratiier  than  waste  of  time.  Snow  began  falling  at  2.15  p.  m.,  and  the  Greenland  coast  was  obscured  in  con- 
sequence. From  this  time  we  shaped  our  course  by  the  compass  attached  to  the  small  aneroid  barometer. 
The  storm  increasing  in  density  and  force  I  decided  to  camp  at  3.40  p.  m.  We  had  traveled  over  new  ice 
the  greater  part  of  the  day,  but  had  also  encountered  a  few  i)aleocrystic  floes.  The  latter  were  a  great  im- 
provement over  the  former  m  jjoint  of  traveling.  The  snow  at  all  times  was  deep  and  soft,  and  our  utmost 
strength  was  required  to  move  the  sledge  forward.  Frequently  a  tangle  of  rubble  wjis  met  with,  which 
would  be  so  rougli  and  uneven  that  a  road  or  canal  had  to  be  cut  before  the  sledge  could  pass.  Minimum 
temperature,  —44^  [— 42.2°C.]. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  March  the  snow  had  ceased  falling  and  the  abrupt  cliffs  of  Polaris  Prom- 
ontory were  again  visible,  and  apparently  not  more  than  five  miles  away.  1  wat.  in  a  dilemma.  Your  verbal 
instructions,  limiting  my  time  on  the  floe  to  five  days,  were  explicit  and  imperative.  If  I  went  to  Newman 
Hay,  in  accordance  with  your  written  instructions,  I  know,  from  former  experiences  in  sledging,  that  four  days 
more  at  least  would  be  recjuired  to  complete  the  journey.  If  I  left  my  tent  pitched  where  we  were  then  in 
camp  and  made  the  journey  to  the  Gap,  depositing  the  provisions  and  boat,  and  returning  to  the  tent  the 
same  night,  1  could  probably  reach  depot  B  with  my  party  within  the  time  specified.  After  a  careful  con- 
sideration, I  decided  to  adopt  the  latter  course,  and  adhere  strictly  to  your  instructions.  Leaving  the  tent 
standing,  with  all  our  baggage  inside,  we  started  at  7  a.  m.  The  party,  although  lame  and  sore  from  the 
eft'ects  of  their  severe  labors,  were  m  excellent  spirits.  It  being  St.  Patrick  Day,  the  only  Irishman  in 
CJrinnell  Land  (Connell),  assisted  by  two  or  three  others,  warbled  joyously  the  Irish  melodies  which  are 
popular  and  approjjriate  on  such  occasions. 

During  the  night  some  of  the  men  thought  an  animal  could  be  heartl  walking  stealthily  about  the  tent 
outside,  and  in  the  morning  it  was  unanimously  agreed  upon  that  our  only  weapon,  the  revolver,  then  on 
the  sledge,  should  in  the  future  be  kept  in  the  tent  as  a  protection  against  wild  bea;-, ,.  A  careful  examina- 
tion of  this  weapon,  however,  revealed  the  fact  that  it  had  not  been  loaded  for  weeks,  and  that  the  ammu- 
nition intended  for  its  use  had  been  left  snugly  stowed  away  in  the  snow  house  at  Cape  Heechey. 

We  ploddeil  slowly  along  through  the  deep  snow,  finally  reaching  the  t>ap  at  11.20  a.  m.,  where  the 
supplies  comprising  depot  K  were  readily  found.  We  placed  the  boat  above  the  ice-foot  and  piled  boxes 
about  it  in  such  a  manner  as  to  secure  it  from  harm.  On  making  an  examination  of  the  condition  of  the 
boat  before  leaving,  it  was  found  that  the  strain  to  which  she  had  been  subjected  had  made  several  large 
cracks  along  her  keel.     These  are  unimportant,  however,  and  may  be  repaired  easily. 

We  began  an  excavation  in  a  snow-bank,  but  fearing  that  our  tracks  would  be  obliterated  by  the 
northeast  wind,  which  had  risen  suddenly,  we  immediately  started  back,  reaching  the  tent  at  about  3  j).  m. 
Several  received  frost-bites  about  the  face  during  the  homeward  march.  In  a  short  time  the  wind  rose  to 
a  velocity  estimated  at  twenty-two  miles  per  hour  \g.8"'  per  second],  and  the  air  was  so  densely  filled  with 
drifting  snow  that  it  was  impossible  to  distinguish  objects  more  than  one  hundred  yards  [91"']  distant.  Mini- 
mum temi)erature,  —43°  [  — 4i.7°C.]. 

March  18. — The  men  suffered  greatly  during  the  night  from  the  intense  cold.  Sleep  was  out  of  the 
cpiestion,  and  the  cook  was  only  too  glad  for  an  excuse  to  get  up  at  4  o'clock.  The  trials  of  this  functionary 
can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who  had  performed  the  same  duties  under  similar  circumstances.  Without 
patience  and  fortitude  none  can  hope  to  succeed  in  cooking  a  breakfast  when  the  temperature  is  below 
minus  forty.  We  were  ready  to  start  at  6  o'clock,  but  were  delayed  by  a  brisk  wind  until  nearly  8.  No 
event  worthy  of  note  occurred  during  the  march.     We  camped  at  i  p.  m.,  four  miles  from  Cape  Beechey. 

The  bag  of  provisions  which  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  i)arty  had  left  near  this  place,  was  hauled  to 
the  tent,  which  I  decided  to  leave  standing,  rather  than  cache  at  Cape  Beechey.  The  stores  which  we  had 
abandoned  on  our  outward  tri[)  were  also  hauleil  and  deposited  there.  Towards  evening  the  wind  died 
away  and  the  sun  siione  brightly.     Minimum  temperature,  —43.2'  [— 4i.8''C.]. 

The  next  morning  (March  19)  the  cook  got  up  soon  after  i  o'clock,  to  avoid  the  tortures  which  our 
wretched  sleeping-bags  inflicted.  The  large  buffalo  bag  was  frozen  so  hard  that  it  resembled  sheet-iron  in 
point  of  pliability.     Not  a  man  of  the  four  who  occupied  it  slept  for  a  moment  during  the  long  dreary  night. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


161 


They  were  not  able  to  get  into  it  at  once,  but  were,  from  necessity,  compelled  to  thaw  their  way  in  gradually 
by  first  inserting  their  feet.  A  northeast  wind,  which  had  prevailed  during  the  night,  delayed  our  start  until 
5  a.  m.  We  left  the  tent  pitched  in  the  shelter  of  a  large  floe-berg  and  placed  the  provisions  inside.  It 
was  then  carefully  closed,  and  a  small,  red  flag  planted  on  the  summit  of  a  floe-berg,  about  1 5  feet  [4.5"']  above 
the  main  floe,  which  serves  well  to  mark  the  spot.  It  is  due  east  from  Cape  Beechey,  and  distant  about  four 
miles.  Cape  Beechey  was  reached  at  7  o'clock  and  the  snow  house  at  i  o  a.  m.  We  were  greatly  rejoiced 
to  find  that  Schneider  had  greatly  improved  in  health  under  the  skillful  treatment  of  Biederbick.  The  latter 
informed  me  that  he  had  experienced  considerable  difficulty  in  getting  him  to  the  shelter  of  the  hut,  and 
that  his  care  of  the  sick  man  until  our  arrival  had  been  unremitting. 

The  remainder  of  the  day  was  spent  in  clearing  away  the  snow  which  had  formed  in  great  drifts  about 
the  hut,  and  under  which  lay  many  of  the  tools  left  here  last  autumn.  All  the  instruments  thus  covered, 
with  the  exception  of  one  shovel,  were  found.  The  Hudson  Bay  sledge,  which  we  left  here  last  autunm,  could 
not  be  found. 

Dr.  Pavy,  Sergeants  Rice  and  Jewell,  and  the  two  Eskimo  drivers  arrived  from  Fort  Conger  at  3.30 
p.  m.,  en  route  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry. 

We  left  depot  B  at  3.45  a.  m.,  March  28,  and  reached  depot  A  at  9  o'clock,  where  we  halted  for  a 
short  time  for  lunch.  Schneider  had  walked  along  ahead  of  the  sledge  during  the  morning,  but  at  his 
earnest  appeal  I  allowed  him  to  take  his  place  in  the  drag-ropes,  with  the  understanding  that  I  was  to  be 
informed  if  the  old  symptoms  returned. 

Arrived  at  Fort  Conger  at  3.30  p.  m.  The  party,  as  might  be  expected,  were  very  tired,  but  all  returned 
in  good  health.  A  few  superficial  frost-bites  of  the  fingers  and  about  the  face  are  the  only  accidents  which 
I  can  record.  Considering  the  unprecedented  low  temperatures  in  which  we  traveled,  from  the  first  to  the 
last  day,  it  is  certainly  marvelous  that  more  serious  cases  of  freezing  did  not  occur. 

Sergeant  D.  C.  Ralston  was  indefatigable  in  his  efforts  to  secure  meteorological  data.  His  report  of 
the  same  will  be  found  appended. 

One  of  our  two  watches  stopped  some  time  during  the  first  night,  and,  in  consequence,  no  comparisons 
were  made.  I  found  the  allowance  of  four  ounces  of  alcohol  to  each  man  per  day,  for  cooking  purposes, 
to  be  insufficient  during  extremely  cold  weather.  At  all  times  one-third  more  was  required ;  once  double 
the  allowance  was  used. 

I  cannot  speak  too  highly  of  the  admirable  behavior  of  the  party  under  my  charge  during  our  absence 
from  Fort  Conger.  The  courage,  zeal,  and  fidelity  which  they  displayed  in  the  performance  of  their  duties 
is  highly  commendable. 

Trusting  that  the  course  which  I  adopted — .  .nough  not  in  strict  accord  with  your  instructions — will 
meet  with  your  full  approval,  . 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

•  D.  L.  Brainard, 

Sergeant,  Gctieral  Service,  U.  S.  A, 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

Fifth  Cavalry^  U.  S.  A.,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 

H.  Mis.  393 11 

i 


11 

■  liiw' 


I! 


•Ill 


!    i 


162 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Report  of  obserrations  nuule  on  sledf^e  journey  to  the  Greenland  coast  under  char^^e  of  Strgeant  D.  L.  Brainard, 
leaving  this  station  March  14,  1882,  and  returning  A/arch  20,  1882. 


t  i! 


t 


Date. 


Mar.  14 


Mar.  15 


Mar.  16 


Mar.  17 


Mar.   18 


Mar.  19 


Mar.  20 
Mar.  20 


Time. 


II.  15  a.  m. 


00  p.m. 
00  p.  m. 
00  p.  m. 
00  a.  m. 


00  a.m. 
00  a.  m. 
00  p.  m. 
00  p.  m. 
00  a.  m. 
00  a.  m. 
00  p.  m. 
00  p.m. 


4. 00  p.  m. 


00  a.  m. 
00  a.  m. 

00  p.  m. 
00  p.  m. 


Barometer. 


Inches. 


29.62 
29. 6'3 
29.63 
29.95 


29.72 
29.  69 
29.72 
29.70 
30.02 
29.95 
29.96 
29.98 


752-  33 
752-59 
752- 59 
760.72 


754-  87 
754- « I 
754-  87 
754-  37 
762. 49 
760.  72 

71  ""'■97 
761.48 


30. 02  I  762. 49 

j 

30.31  I  769.86 

30.27  768.84 


30- 27 
30.38 


768.84 
771.64 


Observed  tem- 
perature. 


Fahr. 
_44.o» 


.44.0 
-46.0 

-53-5 
-50.0 


—  390 

—  40.5 

—  41.0 

—  43-5 

—  39  o 

—  35° 
-35- 5 

—  33- 5 

—  330 

—  350 

—  ■il<^ 

—  35-5 


C. 
—  42.  2* 


—  42.  2 

—  43-3 

—  47-5 

—  45.6 


—  39- 

—  40. 

—  40. 

—  41. 

—  39- 

—  37- 

—  37- 
-36- 


-36.1 

—  37-2 
-36.1 

-37-5 


Minimum  tem- 
])erature. 


Fahr, 
-49-8» 


—  6i.o' 


44.0 


43- o 


C. 
•45-4 


.51.1' 


—  42.  2 


—  41.7 


Weather,  direction 
of  wind,  &c. 


Calm  and  clear . . 

Calm  and  fair 

Calm  and  fair 

Calm  and  fair  . . . 


Calm  and  fair 

Calm  and  fair 

NE.,  light,  clear.. 


NE.,  brisk,  cloudy 
NE., brisk, cloudy. 
NE.,  light  and  fair. 
SE.,  light  snow.. 

Calm,  light  snow  . 

Calm  and  fair 

NE.,    fresh    and 

cloudy. 
NE., brisk, cloudy. 
N  E. ,  brisk  ,*  cloudy 


Air  filled  with  drifting  snow,  and  im|K)ssible  to  distinguish  objects 

■41.8 


00  a.m.   ]  30.35 


00  noon 
00  p.m. 


5.00  a.  m. 


00  a.  m. 
00  a.m. 


00  a.  m. 
38  a.m. 


i.oo  p.  m. 


00  p.  m. 
00  a.  m. 
05  a.  m. 


30.23 
30.22 

30.25 

30.  22 
30.  23 


30.23 


30. 45' 


30' 43 
30.38 


770. 88 
767.83 
767. 57 

768.34 

767.  57 
767- 83 


767. 83 


773-  42* 


772.91 
771.64 


—  41.  o 

-34-5 
-3«-2 

-28.5 


—  40.  6 
36- 9 
•35- « 


43.  2 


—  28.0    —33.3 

—  27.0    —32.8 


•  26.  8    —  3?.  7 
37.  5* -38.6* 


33- o 


37- o 
-370 
-28.0 


-36.1 


-38.3 
-38.3 
-HI 


36.0 


-  57-  o* 


38.8 
■43-8 


-37-8 


-  49-  4' 


-393 
42.1 


100  yards  [9 
NE.,  fresh.. 
NE.,  fresh.. 
NE.,  light  and  fair. 

SE.,    light    and 

cloudy. 
SE.,  light,  cloudy. 
SE.,   fresh,  light 

snow. 


Calm  and  fair 


Remarks. 


•Min.  ther.  No.  560 
exposed  at  Cape 
Murchison,  P  a  r  - 
tially  exposed  to  sun. 


Min.  ther.  set  at  7  p.  m. 

•Index  point  in  bulb 
and  below  scale 
reading,  viz,  —  60 
[— 5l.l''C.].  Esti- 
mated one  degree 
below[— 5i.7°C.]. 


Min.  ther.  set  4.45  p.m. 


began   2.15 


Lt.  snow 

p.  ni. 
I.t.  snow  ended  4.30 

p.  ni. 


Min.  ther.  set  3  p.  m. 
*  Estimated  22   miles 
per  hour  [9.8'"  per 
second.] 
]  distant. 


N.,  fresh  and  fair. 


N.,  light  and  fair.. 


Min.  ther.  set  at 
p.  m. 


2.30 


Lt.  snow  began  6.30  a. 
m.;  snow  ended  9.20 
a.  m.,  wind  subsiding 
same  time. 

*  Min.  ther.  No.  560  at 
Cape  Murchison,  as 
read  by  Sergeant 
Jewell. 

♦Inside  ice-house. 
Outside  of  ice-house, 
after  5  mins.  ex|X)s- 
ure    to    open    air, 

30.33  [770.37"""]- 
At  I  p.  m.  temp,  of 
ice-house,  farther 
side  from  stove, 
party  of  8  men  in- 
side and  coal  lire 
burning,  -f-  39.3 
[+4.i''C.]. 
Min.  ther.  set  7  p.  m. 

Min.  ther.  No.  560  at 
Cape  Murchison. 


Instruments  used  during  trip:  Aneroid  barometer  No.  6,  minimum  thermometer  No.  i. 

D.  C.  Ralston, 
Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  21,  1882.  Sgt.,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A, 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


163 


Appendix  No.  45. — Sergeant  JeweW  s  report  on  trip  to  Lincoln  Bay,  while  supporting  Dr. 

Pavy. 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  30,  1882. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report  of  my  sledge  journey  to  Lincoln  Bay,  made  in 
compliance  with  your  orders  of  March  15,  to  support  Dr.  Pavy  and  party  on  their  expedition  of  discovery, 
to  the  north  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry. 

The  party,  consisting  of  Dr.  Octave  Pavy,  Sergeant  George  VV.  Rice,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A.,  Jens 
Edwaid,  driver  of  dog-sledge  Lilla,  and  Sergeant  VV.  S.  Jewell,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A.,  with  Frederick  Chris' 
tiansen,  driver  of  dog-sledge  Antoinette,  left  Fort  Conger,  March  19,  at  9.40  a.  m.,  arriving  at  Cape  Murchison 
at  12.38  p.  m.     Upon  our  arrival  in  the  straits  the  wind  increased  to  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  NE. 

The  temperature  at  depot  A  was  —  30.5  [—34.7°  C],  which  made  the  traveling  particularly  disagree- 
able, although  the  fog,  which  had  all  the  morning  been  hanging  over  the  channel,  began  to  clear  away,  and 
when  we  reached  depot  B  the  Greenland  coast  was  plainly  visible.  We  here  found  the  party  under  Sergeant 
Brainard,  who  had  been  sent  across  the  strait  on  the  14th  instant  with  a  boat  and  supplies  to  be  used  in  con- 
nection with  the  Greenland  exploring  party  under  Lieutenant  Lockwood.  The  accommodations  at  this 
place  being  too  limited  for  so  large  a  party.  Sergeant  Rice  and  myself  built  a  snow  house  of  sufficient  size  to 
accommodate  our  whole  party,  in  which  we  spent  a  very  comfortable  night.  I  awoke  at  i  a.  m.  and  found 
the  temperature  to  be  one  degree  below  zero  [—18.3°  C.].  The  minimum  temperature  for  the  night  (open- 
air  exposure)  being  —41°  [—40.6°  C.]. 

After  completing  our  loads  from  the  supplies  at  this  depot  we  started  at  10  a.  m.  (20th),  finding  the 
traveling  good  until  we  reached  Cape  Beechey  at  11.45  *•  ™"'  where  huge  masses  of  ice  had  been  thrown 
across  the  ice-foot,  completely  blocking  our  passage.  Here  our  trouble  began,  for,  owing  to  the  unusually 
high  tides  prevailing,  it  was  with  considerable  .trouble  that  we  succeeded  in  getting  on  the  firm  ice.  This 
was  of  that  character  known  as  "  rubble-ice,'  with  an  intermixture  of  floe-bergs,  and  so  rough  that  an  ax  had 
to  be  in  constant  use  making  roads,  in  order  to  make  any  progress  at  all,  and  even  then  requiring  the  united 
strength  of  the  whole  party  to  get  the  heavily  loaded  sledges  over  some  of  the  rough  places. 

This  tiresome  monotony  was  only  relieved  once,  when,  about  three  miles  from  Cape  Beechey,  we  found 
an  ice-foot  which  we  were  able  to  use  for  about  a  mile,  after  which  we  were  again  obliged  to  take  to  the 
ice.  When  first  crossing  the  ice-foot  the  exclamation  of  "  Nanook,"  from  Jens,  the  Eskimo,  drew  our 
attention  to  the  tracks  of  a  polar  bear.  They  were  very  plain,  and  showed  him  traveling  to  the  south.  At 
7  p.  m.  we  crossed  to  the  ice-foot,  found  a  snow-bank,  made  a  dug-out,  and  retired  for  the  night.  Distance 
made  good  during  day,  10  miles.  Minimum  temperature,  from  7  p.  m.  (20th)  to  9  a.  m.  (21st),  was  —22° 
[-30.0"  C.]. 

We  started  from  the  snow  house  at  11. 15  a.  m.,  and  found  no  improvement  in  the  traveling,  being  a 
continual  fight  with  the  ice  until  we  reached  Wrangel  Bay,  at  5  p.  m.,  where  we  were  obHged  to  halt  for  the 
purpose  of  relashing  the  sledge  Lilla,  which  had  become  weakened  by  the  rough  ice.  At  5.30  p.  m.  we 
began  crossing  the  bay,  getting  about  half-way,  where  we  camped  at  7  p.  m.  The  tent  being  too  small  to 
accommodate  the  whole  party,  I  found  a  snow-bank  in  which  I  made  a  dug-out  just  large  enough  lor  Rice 
and  myself  to  crawl  into. 

During  the  day  I  observed  several  fine  specimens  of  paleocrystic  floe-bergs ;  on  some  of  them  the  strata 
were  very  plain  and  well  defined,  apparently  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  [457  to  610"""]  in  thickness, 
and  in  numbers  varying  from  five  to  twelve,  accordmg  to  the  size  of  the  berg.  The  difference  in  the  forma- 
tion of  the  strata  was  well  marked,  some  being  purely  crystal,  and  others  of  a  whitish  or  milk  color,  indicating 
the  presence  of  snow  in  its  construction.  Distance  made  good,  six  miles.  Minimum  thermometer,  from 
7.30  p.m.  (21st)  to  7  a.  m.  (22d),--24''  [—31.1"  C.J. 

At  9.30  a.  m.  we  began  the  day's  march,  and  found  a  great  improvement  in  the  ice ;  for  as  soon  as  we 
got  clear  of  Wrangel  Bay  we  reached  a  floe  of  new  ice  which  extended  above  Mount  Parry.  At  this  point  a 
cache  was  made  last  year  by  Dr.  Pavy,  consisting  of  hard  bread  and  pemmican.  As  we  crossed  the  ice- 
foot we  again  discovered  the  tracks  of  a  bear,  the  farthest  north  that  evidences  of  a  living  one  have  ever 
been  seen.  Upon  investigating  the  cache  we  found  that  he  also  had  discovered  it  as  there  was  but  a  small 
amount  of  the  pemmican  left,  while  the  bread  bags  were  torn  in  shreds.  But  we  were  able  to  save  most  of 
the  bread  as  he  did  not  appear  to  relish  this  article  as  a  diet    As  the  snow  then  covering  the  cache  was 


I 

I 
?  A 


m 


164 


TUB  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


undisturbed,  it  appears  that  the  visit  must  have  been  made  some  time  ago.  After  leaving  the  new  ice  we 
found  some  large  floes  ou  which  the  traveling  was  good.  These  extended  to  Lincoln  Bay,  and  good  time 
was  made  until  within  about  two  miles  of  our  destination  where  some  rubble-ice  was  encountered,  which, 
however,  caused  but  little  delay.  We  reached  the  end  of  our  journey  at  5.20  p.  m.,  and  selecting  a  suitable 
bank  built  a  snow  house.  Number  of  miles  traveled,  12.  Minimum  temperature  from  5.20  p.  m.  (22d)  to 
8  a.  m,  (23d),  —40  [—40.0°  C.]. 

After  visiting  the  English  depot  at  this  place  and  receiving  from  Dr.  Pavy  164  pounds  of  canned  beet 
4  pounds  tobacco,  5  bottles  onion  powder,  and  i  can  curry  paste,  I  left  the  party  at  12.30  p.  m.,  accom- 
panied only  by  Christiansen  with  the  sledge  Antoinette.  We  made  good  progress,  arriving  at  Wrangel  Bay 
at  4.30  p.  m.,  and  at  the  same  house  occupied  by  us  on  the  night  of  the  20th,  at  8.30  p.  m.  Distance  trav- 
eled, 18  miles.     Minimum  thermometer  from  8.30  p.  in.  (23d)  to  7  a.  m.  (24th)— 53°  [— 47.2°C.]. 

Started  at  7.30  a.  m.  for  depot  B.     We  left  the  ice  at  1 1  a.  m.  about  one  mile  north  of  Cape  Beechey 
and  reached  our  destination  [depot  B]  at  1  p.  m.,  where  your  order  of  March  2 1 ,  assigning  me  to  duty  under 
Lieutenant  Lockwood,  was  received  from  Corporal  SaloV.     Meteorological  observations  were  taken  and  re- 
corded, the  report  of  which  you  will  find  on  accompanying  form. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant., 

W.  S.  Jewell, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Expedition. 


Meteorological  report  of  sledge  trip,  from  March  19  to  March  30,  1882. 


s 


\i 


Date, 
1882. 

I 

Time. 

Barometer, 
aneroid,No.  10. 

Thermometer 
No.  1. 

Wlirfi 

1 

Minimum  thermometer. 

State 
of  weather. 

Locality. 

Direc- 
tion. 

Force. 

Reading. 

Time. 

Mar.  20 

21 

22 
23 
24 

! 

25 
26 

7  a.  m. 

10  a.  m. 
Sp-m. 

9  a.m. 

11  a.m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.m. 

I  p.m. 

7  p.m. 

8  a.m. 

8  p.m. 

7  a.  m. 

7  p.m. 
5  a.  m. 

7  a.m. 

tl  a.  m. 
11  a.  m. 

1 1  p.  m . 

Inches. 
30.20 

30.04 
29.87 

29.71 

29-67 
29-Si 
29-33 

29.22 

29.15 
29.21 

29.32 

29-43 

29.58 
29-65 

29.61 

29.56 
29.60 

29.61 

mm. 
767.07 

763-00 
758.68 

754-  62 

753-60 
749-  54 
744-97 

742. 17 

740. 40 
741-92 

744-71 

747-5" 

75'- 32 
753-  «o 

752.08 

750.  81 
751-83 

752. 08 

Fahr. 
-3» 

-27 
—20 

—10 

—  10 
—20 
—20 

-36 

-35 
—23 

-37 

-45 

-49 
-48 

-46 

—40 
-36 

-32 

C. 
-35- 0 

-32.8 
—.28.9 

-23- 3 

-23-3 
—28.9 
—28.9 

-37-8 

-37-2 
—30.6 

-38.3 

—42.  8 

-45-0 
-44-4 

-43-3 

—40.0 
-37-8 

-35-6 

E. 

E. 
SE. 

SE. 

SE. 
SE. 
E. 

Calm. 

E. 
E. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

SE. 
Calm. 

Calm. 

S. 
Calm. 

SW. 

Light. 

Light. 
Brisk. 

Light. 

Fresh. 
Light. 
Light. 

Fahr. 
—41 

C. 
—40.6 

7  p.  m.  to 
7a.m. 

Lt.  snow. 

Lt.  snow. 
Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

Fair. 

Fair. 

Fair. 

Fair. 
Fair. 

Cloudy. 

Clear. 

Clear. 
Fair. 

Foggy  on 
straits. 
Clear. 
Clear. 

Cloudy. 

1 

Depot  B. 

Do. 
Between  Cape 
Beechey  and 
Wrangel  Bay. 
Do. 

Do. 
Wrangel  Bay. 
Do. 

3  miles  south  of 
Cape  Frederick. 
Lincoln  Bav. 
Do. 

Between  Cape 
Reechey  and 
Wrangel  Bay. 
Do. 

Depot  B. 
Do. 

Do. 

Cape  Beechey. 
Depot  E. 

Depot  B. 

— 22 

—30.0 

7  p.m.  to 
9  a.m. 

-24 

-3<-'' 

7  p.m.  to 
7  a.  m. 

Gentle. 
Light. 

—40 

—40.0 

7  p.m.  to 
8  a.  m. 

Fresh. 



-53 

-47.2 
—46. 1 

8  p.m.  to 
7  a.  m. 

7  p.  m.  to 
5  a.  m. 

Light. 
Light. 

-5« 

■-46.V 

II  p.m.  to 
■  I  a.  m. 

1 

THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION.  165 

Mfteorological  report  of  iledge  ttip,  from  March  \f)  to  March  yi,  xi&z — Continued. 


Dale, 
1882. 

Time. 

Barometer, 
aneroid.No.  lo. 

• 

Thermometer 
No.  I. 

Wind. 

Minimum  thermometer. 

State 
of  weather. 

Locality. 

Direc- 
tion. 

F'orce. 

Reading. 

Time. 

Mar.  27 
28 

29 
30 

II  a.m. 

3P«n. 
7p.m. 
5  a.m. 

II  a.m. 
7p.m. 

7  a.m. 

3pn>- 
7p.m. 

ip.m. 

Inches. 
29- 57 

29.56 

29  57 
29.56 

29 -47 
29.44 

29.21 

29.01 
28.91 

29.38 

mm.    \Fahr. 
751.06      -29 

750.81    —27 
751.06-31 
750.81     -43 

748.  52     — 12 

C. 

-33- 9 

-32.8 

-35- 0 
-41.7 

-35- 6 
-43-3 

-33-3 

-36.1 
-45.6 

-29.4 

SW. 

SW. 
SW. 
Calm. 

S. 
SW. 

NE. 

NE. 
SE. 

SW. 

Fresh. 

Fresh. 
Fresh. 

Fresh. 
Gentle. 

Fresh. 

Fresh. 
Fresh. 

Fresh . 

Fahr. 
-40 

C. 
— 40.0 

1 1  p.  m.  to 
II  a.  m. 

Fair. 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Clear. 

Clear. 
Clear. 

Cloudy. 

Fair . 
Fair. 

Cloudy. 

Depot  B. 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

Cape  Beechey. 

Floe  five  miles 
from      Cape 
Beechey . 
Do. 

Depot  E. 

Floe  five  miles 
from  Cape 
Beechey. 

Depot  B. 

-45 

-42.8 

7  p.m.  to 
5  a.  m. 

747-  76 

741.92 

73^-84 
734-  30 

746.  24 

-46 

-28 

-33 
-50 

—2! 

-SO 

-45.6 

6  p.m.  to 
7  a.  m. 

-50 

-45-6 

1  a.m.  to 
I  p.  m. 

W.  S.  Jewell, 
Sergeant,  S.  C,  U.  S.  A. 


Appendix  No.  46. — Dr.  Pavy's  orders  for  journey  northward  over  Polar  Ocean. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  14,  1882. 

Sir  :  Having  tendered  your  services  in  the  field  to  command  a  party  for  the  purpose  of  discovering 
whether  land  exists  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  I  have  the  honor  to  advise  you  that  you  are 
assigned  to  that  duty,  provided  that  the  prospective  health  of  the  command  will,  in  your  opinion,  permit  of 
such  absence,  and  to  direct  that  you  leave  this  station  for  your  trip  (weather  permitting)  on  March  18,  1882. 

Sergeant  George  W.  Rice,  Signal  Service,  and  Jens  Edward  are  assigned  to  duty  with  you,  and  the  dog- 
sledge  Lilla,  with  team  of  nine  Eskimo  dogs,  will  be  taken. 

Sergeant  W.  S.  Jewell,  Signal  Service,  and  Frederik  T.  Christiansen,  with  the  sledge  Antoinette  and 
its  team  of  seven  dogs,  will  be  at  your  disposal  from  this  point  to  the  English  depot  at  Lincoln  Bay,  beyond 
which  point  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  proceed. 

On  reaching  that  place.  Sergeant  Jewell  will  be  furnished  with  200  pounds  preserved  meat,  six  cans 
onion  powder,  a  few  pounds  of  tobacco,  and  will  be  directed  to  return  with  dog-sledge  Antoinette  to  depot  B. 

The  details  of  your  journey,  and  the  route  to  be  followed  northward  from  Lincoln  Bay,  are  left  to  your 
own  judgment  and  management.  I  deem  it,  however,  important  to  invite  your  special  attention  to  the  route 
over  Fielden  Peninsula  and  across  James  Ross  Bay  to  Cape  Hecla. 

While  travel  overland  is  usually  objectionable,  the  experience  of  the  English  expedition  of  i87s-'76,  as 
well  as  that  of  our  own,  indicates  that  traveling  is  thus  facilitated  when  the  party  can  avoid  any  consider- 
able distance  of  the  polar  pack.  9uch  route  would  probably  give  you  the  not  inconsiderable  advantage  of 
leaving  the  coast  at  Hecla  in  less  time  than  Cape  Joseph  Henry  could  be  reached  through  the  rough  ice- 
pack on  its  eastward  side. 

Should  you  follow  tjiis  route  the  cairn  on  Crozier  Island  will  be  visited,  the  record  there  found  taken 
by  you,  and  copy  thereof  be  left,  together  with  one  of  the  record  blanks  furnished  you.  Similar  action  will 
be  taken  regarding  the  records  in  cairn  at  the  Alert^s  winter-quarters. 

You  are  to  bear  in  mind  that  in  no  instance  must  your  party  be  separated,  that  the  exact  .location  of 
depots  must  be  made  known  to  each  member  of  the  party,  that  no  advance  must  be  made  beyond  such 
time  as  on  full  allowance  one-half  of  your  provisions  have  been  consumed,  and  that  in  case  of  any  consider- 


■II  ■ 


166 


tllE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Mi! 


Ill 


ll! 


!     I 


1   ; 


able  movement  of  the  ice,  or  on  the  appearance  of  any  lanes  of  open  water,  you  must  at  once  seek  the 
mainland.  You  are  quite  as  well  aware  as  myself  of  the  hazardous  nature  of  a  journey  without  boats  into 
the  central  expanse  of  a  frozen  ocean. 

In  case  land  is  seen  to  the  northward  your  efforts  will  be  devoted  to  reaching  its  shores,  and  in  follow- 
ing that  coast  which  trends  most  to  the  northward.  In  case  no  land  is  reached,  one  day  must  be  devoted 
at  your  most  northerly  i)oint  to  determining,  with  the  greatest  care,  your  position,  and  in  obtaining  detailed 
information  as  to  the  depth  of  the  sea,  the  temperature  of  the  water,  the  tidal  currents,  the  thickness  of  the 
new  ice,  and  any  other  available  data. 

Whenever  you  are  obliged  to  rest  your  team  a  day,  similar  observations  should  be  made.  In  c.ise  new 
land  is  re.iched  you  will  erect  a  cairn  at  a  prominent  place  .ir.u  deposit  therein  the  exjjeditionary  record 
furnished  you,  with  such  additions  briefly  detailing  your  discoveries. 

A  cojjy  of  your  sledge  journal,  which  must  be  as  full  as  possible,  will  be  submitted  within  /loo  7iwAf 
after  your  return  and  a  full  report  within  one  month. 

Data  regarding  the  depot  at  View  Point,  and  the  sketch  of  the  coast  to  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  are  already 
in  your  possession. 

A  careful  lookout  will  be  kept  for  drift-wood,  and  if  any  fragment  that  could  possibly  have  belonged  to 
a  ship  be  noted,  it  must  be  brought  to  the  station  unless  of  great  size,  when  the  piece  best  calculated  for 
identification  will  be  secured.     It  is  possible  that  thus  some  tidings  of  the  jfeantietU-  may  be  obtained. 

In  accordance  with  your  wishes  no  sjjecial  anxiety  will  be  felt  for  I  lie  safety  of  your  party  until  June  i. 

Trusting  that  your  earnest  enthusiasm  for  polar  exploration,  united  to  your  practical  experience,  cover- 
ing two  winters  of  dog-sledging,  will  insure  your  party  all  possible  success,  and  wishing,  beyond  all,  your 
safe  return — 

I  am,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  am/  Assistant, 

Commamiiii};  Expedition, 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Paw,  U.  S.  Army. 


Appendix  No.  47. — Dr.  Pavfs  report  on  journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  46. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land, ,• 


1882. 


To  the  Commanding  Officer,  L.  F.  B.  Expedition  : 

Sir  :  In  compliance  with  your  orders,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  to  you  the  report  of  my  sledge  journey, 
from  the  19th  of  March  to  the  2d  of  May. 

The  19th  of  March,  accompanied  by  G.  W.  Rice  and  the  Eskimo,  Jens  Edwards,  I  left  Fort  Conger. 
My  team  consisted  of  nine  excellent  dogs,  and  the  constant  weight  on  the  sledge  amounted  to  f  lbs. 
To  the  provisions  that  I  carried  were  to  be  added  the  rations  cached  last  fall  at  Wrangel  Bay,  and  part  of  the 
depot  left  by  Capt.  Nares  at  Lincoln  Bay.  Moreover,  you  had,  as  an  auxilliary  [sie]  sledge,  put  at  my  disposal 
the  Antoinette  to  support  me  as  far  as  Lincoln  Bay.  This  was  accompanied  by  Sergt.  Jewell  (the  Eskimo 
Frederick  Christiansen  acting  as  dog  driver),  and  pulled  by  eight  dogs. 

At  3.40  p.  m.  we  entered  the  snowhouse  in  Shift  Rudder  Bay,  temp.  —34°  [—36.7°  C.J,  where  was 
assembled  the  party  under  command  of  Sergt.  Brainard.  The  very  temperature  to  which  the  men  had  been 
exposed  in  the  straits  had  somewhat  chilled  their  enthusiasm  and  slightly  frost- bitten  fingers  and  noses. 

The  house  being  already  crowded,  a  deep  hole,  large  enough  for  our  party,  was  soon  dug  in  a  snow- 
bank; the  bags  were  spread  out,  and  at  10  p.  m.  all  of  us  had  turned  in.  During  the  night  the  thermometer 
inside  registered  -1°  [—18.0°  C],  while  outside  the  alcohol  was  falling  to  —39.0  [—39.4°  C].  Distance 
travelled  in  the  day  in  straight  line,  16  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  9.40  a.  m.  to  3.40  p.  m. 

March  20. — Temp,  min.— 39.°  [ — 39.4°  C.j;  obs.  t. 

We  started  at  10  a.m.,  the  weather  not  being  very  cold,  but  rather  gloomy  and  disagreeable.  At  12  m. 
we  passed  Cape  Beechey,  and  followed  the"  coast  for  about  two  or  three  miles ;  but  the  icefoot  becoming 

♦Original  undated.     Received  July  23,  1882.— A.  W.  G.,  Lt'eut. 
f  Omission  in  original. — A.  W.  (). 


)     ' 


THK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  HXPEDITION. 


167 


much  encumbered  with  large  paleocrystic  bergs,  we  were  compelled  to  take  to  the  ice,  notwithstanding  its 
bad  and  hummocky  character.  At  the  place  where  we  had  left  the  shore,  we  had  found  cncrusti.'<l  in  the 
snow  the  footprints  of  a  fully  grown  bear,  evidently  on  his  perigrination  towards  the  south.  These  tracks 
were  not  of  very  recent  origin. 

The  travellmg  was  exceedingly  tiresome  and  the  headway  made  very  small.  At  no  time  could  we  find 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  good  ice.  It  consisted  of  an  aglommcration  [sic\  of  small  hummocks,  amalgamated 
with  rubble  ice,  and  separated  by  holes,  covered  in  many  places  with  soft  snow. 

Despairing  of  making  Wrangel  Bay  that  night  (being  half-way  between  Cape  Bcechey  and  the  bay), 
at  6.30  p.  ra.  we  stopped,  and  again  Rice  and  Jewell  dug  a  house  in  a  snowdrift  of  the  icefoot.  With  Jens 
and  Frederick  [Christiansen]  I  fed  the  dogs  and  afterwards  cooked  supper. 

Distance  travelled,  9^  miles. 

Hours  travelled,  from  10  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. 

T7ie  2\it  of  March. — The  weather  was  comparatively  mild  and  the  travelling,  although  bad,  was,  never- 
theless, better.  For  several  hours  we  toiled  over  large  floes  and  less  rubble  and  hummocky  ice,  and  at 
7.30  p.  m.  went  into  camp  on  the  ice,  at  the  entrance  to  Wrangel  Hay,  having  marched  since  1 2  m.  With 
Jens  and  Frederick  [Christiansen]  I  slept  in  the  tent.  Rice  and  Jewell  burrowed  a  hole  in  a  snowdrift,  under 
the  lee  of  a  berg,  where  I  am  satisfied  they  passed  a  wretched  night,  half  exposed  to  the  cold  wind  and 
without  a  door  to  their  igloo. 

Distance  travelled,  5  )^  miles.  ? 

Hours  travelled,  from  12  m.  to  7.30  p.  m. 

March  22nd.  Temp.,  min.,  —  24.0  [—  31.1"  C] ;  obs.,  9.30  a.  m.,  —  20.0  (—  28.9°  C.J ;  obs.,  i  p.  m. 
-  36-0  I-  37-8°  C.];  obs.,  5  p.  m.,  -  30.0  [-  34.4''  C.J. 

We  started  at  9.30  a.  m.,  procee<ling  towards  the  small  depot  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Parry,  and  without 
disturbing  the  cache  made  in  the  fall  at  Wrangel  Bay.  With  the  loads  already  on  the  sledges  it  was 
not  possible  to  carry  at  once  the  provisions  of  both  caches.  After  an  hour's  march,  when  out  of  the  bay, 
we  travelled  over  excellent  level  ice.  It  consisted  of  a  band  extending  fi-om  the  shore  to  two  miles  out 
in  the  strait,  and  to  the  north  about  four  or  five  miles.  On  the  coast  the  foot  was  the  same  as  I  had 
found  it  in  the  fall.  More  to  the  east  the  straits  were  hummocky ;  this  band  of  young  ice  proved, 
evidently,  that  the  floes  must  have  been  in  motion  until  late  in  the  season,  cementing  togetKer  by  calm 
weather. 

At  the  foot  of  Mt.  Parry,  when  crossing  from  the  ice  to  take  up  the  depot,  to  my  astonishment  we 
again  found  the  tracks  of  our  bear.  The  cache  had  been  plundered,  a  sack  of  bread  torn  open  and 
untouched,  but  the  pemmican  two-thiius  eaten  up.    The  snowy  bruin  had  made  a  lunch  of  70  lbs! 

We  '"  '^d  on  the  Antoinetle  the  bread,  and  about  30  lbs.  of  pemmican  left,  and  resumed  our  course. 
The  abse  if  icefoot  north  of  the  point  where  I  had  been  stopped  during  the  fall,  and  the  accumu- 
lation of  gigantic  floebergs  in  other  places,  satisfy  my  mind,  that  this  coast  could  not  have  been  travelled 
at  all.  I  am  rather  inclined  to  think  with  Capt.  Nares,  that,  unless  an  internal  road  exists  between  Wrangel 
and  Lincoln  Bay,  no  autumnal  travelling  in  this  neighborhood  can  generally  be  successfully  undertaken  by 
sledges. 

In  the  uncertainty  in  which  I  now  stood  about  the  state  of  our  cache  at  Wrangell  Bay,  and  unwilling 
to  detain  Jewell  longer  than  we  had  expected,  I  decided  for  the  present  not  to  return  to  the  bay,  but  to 
proceed  north. 

At  one  p.m.,  for  the  first  time,  we  drove  over  paleocrystic  floes;  these  afforded  good  travelling  and  were 
identically  of  the  same  nature  as  those  over  which  I  had  passed  early  in  the  spring.  Undulating  surfaces 
that  can  be  compared  to  rolling  prairies,  they  are  if  at  all  large  and  not  fortified  at  their  edges  by  walls  of 
rubble  and  bastions  of  bergs  incomparably  superior  for  sledging  to  the  ordinarily  hummocky  ice  formed  by 
the  disintegration  of  the  pack  in  the  conflict  of  autumnal  storms.  At  3  p.  m.  we  were  again  stumbling  over 
the  worst  kind  of  hummocks,  and  had  to  wind  our  way  towards  the  north  shore  of  Lincoln  Bay,  where  we 
landed  about  a  mile  north  of  the  British  cache  at  5  p.  m.  Again  the  tent  was  at  once  pitched;  our  builders. 
Rice  and  Jewell,  dug  in  a  snowbank  for  a  house;  the  Eskimos  fed  the  dogs,  and  I  prepared  supper;  after 
which  we  all  moved  under  our  dome  of  snow.     Distance  made,  8^  miles. 

Hours  travelled,  from  9.30  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 

March  2yd. — Temp.,  inin.,  during  night,  —  40.0  [—40.0°  C.j.  Obs.,  12  m.,  —  23  [  — 3o.9°C.];  7  p.m., 
-39'S[-39-7°C.]. 


1'  .. 


!   ;« 


i! 


sir-  ! 


Ii   '"^ 


168 


TUB  LADY  FEANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  23rd,  in  the  morning,  we  overhauled  the  prov  isions  of  the  English  depot  that  we  found  to  be  in  the 
same  state  as  we  had  left  them  last  September.  In  the  afternoon  Jewell  departed,  carrying  with  him  150 
(164,  Jewell.]  pounds  of  preserved  meat.  We  passed  tlie  remainder  of  the  day  busily  arranging  our  stores^ 
and  making  more  comfortable  the  house  that  was  to  become  our  headquarters,  until  the  last  load  could  be 
trai.jported  around  Black  Cape. 

March  t^th. — Temp.,  min.,  during  night,  —  56.2  [ — 49.0°  C.];  obs.,  6  a.  m.,  —  45.0  [  —  42.8°  C.];  8  a.m., 
-43.0  [-41.7°  C.];  II  a.  m.,  -39-°  [-39-4°  <-'•];  6  p.m.,  -36.5  [-38.1°  C.]. 

On  the  24th  we  advanced  as  far  as  Cape  Union,  where  we  were  compelled  to  gp  into  camp  by  a  south- 
east breeze  blowing  since  noon,  but  at  the  time  (5  p.  m.)  increasing  to  a  velocity  of  about  15  miles  per  hour 
[about  7"'  per  second).  The  tent  was  pitched  on  the  ice  under  the  lee  of  a  berg,  and,  about  100  yards  [91'"] 
from  the  foot,  in  this  place,  a  perfect  chaos  of  hummocks,  bergs,  and  rubble.  From  Cape  Union  northward 
the  coast  stretches  for  a  long  distance  as  a  wall  of  high  and  black  cliffii,  inclining  to  the  sea  at  a  very  sharp 
angle,  really  in  places  too  perpendicular  for  dogs  to  travel,  and  in  others  impassable  for  men  sledges. 

Here  again  I  do  not  think  the  coast  to  be  generally  a  practicable  route  for  fall  travelling.  Three  times 
in  the  day  we  had  to  leave  the  foot;  and  once  we  were  compelled  to  unhitch  the  dogs,  and  with  main  strength 
to  lower  the  sledge  over  a  perpendicular  wall  of  the  foot. 

Fortunately  between  these  places  the  ice,  when  it  could  be  travelled  on  at  all,  was  level,  but  not  abso- 
lutely good,  as  the  very  thin  crust  of  snow,  mixed  with  hardened,  salty  effloresences,  over  which  a  fierce  wind 
must  have  raved  in  the  early  part  of  the  winter,  rendered  the  traction  exceedingly  laborious. 

Between  the  northern  end  of  Lincoln  Bay  and  Cape  Union,  at  the  entrance  of  several  deep  ravines,  can 
be  seen  large  circular  and  oblong  hills  formed  by  glacial  drifts,  that  at  a  certain  period  of  the  earth's  history 
must  have  been  the  moraines  of  small  glaciers. 
Distance  travelled,  1 1  miles. 
Hours  travelled,  from  8  a.  m  to  5.30  p.  m. 

March  25th.— Temp.,  min.,  during  night,  —38.0  [—38.9°  C.].  Observed,  3  p.m.,  —  27.0  (— 32.8°C.], 
12  a.  m.,  —38.0  [—35.6°  C.J. 

The  storm  has  blown  all  night  and  was  increasing  so  much  at  our  usual  starting  hour  that  I  delayed 
our  departure  until  3  p.  m.  Now  the  band  of  young  ice,  free  from  hummocks,  that  had  at  times  offered  us 
comparatively  good  travelling,  and  which  did  not  extend  in  width  more  than  a  quarter  or  half  a  mile  from 
the  coast,  ended  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  above  our  camp.  Then  again  a  chaos  of  rubble  and  large  hum- 
mock hug  the  high  and  perpendicular  wall  of  the  foot  (in  places  over  15  yards  [about  14"']),  burinating  with 
the  tide  its  polished  surface  in  thousand  grooves,  that  under  the  rays  of  the  sun  glistened  like  engravings  on 
Persian  shields. 

The  foot  was  of  a  terribly  broken  up  and  for  a  long  distance  double,  as  if  last  season,  or  for  many  sum- 
mers, the  oldest  ice  had  not  been  disagregated.  Over  the  slippery  and  uneven  surface,  about  100  yards 
[9 1""]  wide,  we  had  to  carry  to  the  snow  slope  of  the  cliffe  our  load — article  by  article — dragging  the  heaviest 
that  could  not  be  shouldered.    The  sledge  and  the  dogs  were  taken  across  the  last  and  separately. 

Then  for  four  hours  came  a  difficult  and  tiresome  walk.  To  the  mind,  I  will  say  the  most  perplexing 
and  arduous  struggle.  Whoever,  once,  has  cast  his  chances  of  success  on  the  solidity  of  a  thin  plank,  will 
understand  the  anxiety  of  an  Arctic  traveller  when  the  least  false  step  or  a  too  precipitous  descent  can,  in  an 
instant,  reduce  his  highest  expectations  to  a  most  regretted  failure.     Happily  our  sledge  upset  but  once. 

It  is  useless  to  state  that  Rice,  as  he  has  always  done,  showed  himself  in  every  way  the  man  for  such 
emergencies.    As  to  Jens,  his  services  cannot  be  too  much  praised. 

I  will  further  say  that,  to  my  belief,  the  Eskimos  are  indispensable  for  extended  sledge  journeys.  Their 
experience  in  managing  dogs,  and  the  apparent  facility  with  which  they  can  drive  at  once  over  difficulties 
where  the  best  of  their  inexperienced  Caucasian  pupils  will  fail,  or  labor  for  long  hours,  put  the  usefulness  of 
their  services  out  of  the  question.  Moreover,  their  endurance  to  cold  will  allow  them  to  perform  the  many 
duties  of  a  driver  with  bare  hands  and  in  half  of  the  time  that  it  would  freeze  ours. 

The  history  of  the  Arctic  work,  from  Wrangel  to  this  day,  will  bear  witness  to  the  fact  that  all  dog  sledging 
expeditions  that  have  used  natives  as  drivers,  or  perhaps  their  best  substitutes,  (I  mean  men  trained  for  years 
to  the  work)  have  succeeded  with  comparative  ease.  I  think  that  Sir  George  Nares,  on  his  homeward  bound 
journey,  must  have  reflected  more  fully  on  the  usefulness  of  dogs  and  their  drivers. 

Three  miles  north  of  our  camp  the  road  became  better,  being  still  in  places  rough  and  dangerous.  We 
were  at  last,  for  the  present,  out  of  the  labyrinth  of  bergs  and  hummocks.     At  8.20  p.  m.  we  reached  Black 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


169 


Cape,  where,  instead  of  building  a  snowhouse  and  proceeding  a  day  or  two  forward,  as  it  had  been  planned  in 
the  morning,  we  made  a  cache  and  returned  to  our  tent  on  the  ice,  where  we  arrived  at  1 1.30  p.  m.  with  a 
gale  blowing  in  our  faces.  Between  Cape  Union  I'eak  and  Black  Cape  the  coast,  still  falling  at  steep  angle, 
is  formed  of  black  slate  and  cut  in  many  place  by  deep  ravines,  some  of  which  must  lead  to  interior  valleys. 

The  ice,  as  far  as  the  view  could  reach,  presented  the  asjiect  of  a  frozcn-up  sea  of  hummocks,  with  very 
few  patches  of  young  ice.  To  our  astonishment,  since  we  had  turned  Capo  Union  we  coultl  not  detect  in 
Robeson  Channel  a  paleocrystic  floe  of  any  considerable  dimension. 

From  Black  Cape,  by  a  beautiful  and  cloudless  evening,  on  an  horizon  tinted  with  the  tender  colors  of 
the  soft,  Arctic  light,  we  saw,  far  in  the  north,  what  appeared  to  us  as  the  faint  but  extensive  outline  of  the 
coast.  Had  we  been,  as  the  members  of  the  "  Polaris"  expedition,  the  first  to  cast  eyes  over  this  apparition, 
we  would  have  certainly  pronounced  it  land.  The  too  beautiful  illusion  was  but  a  bank  of  fog — one  of 
the  thousand  fancies  and  alluring  deceits  of  mirage.  Distance  travelled,  8  miles.  Hours  travelled,  from 
3  p.  m.  to  11.30  p.  m. 

March  26///. — Min.,  during  night,  —37.5  [  —  38.6^  C.].     Observed,  10.30  a.  m.,  —33.0  [  —  36.1"  C] ;  5  p. 

m-. -345  [-36-9"  ^J- 

The  26th  of  March,  leaving  again  our  tent  pitched,  we  returned  to  Lincoln  Bay  and  slept.    The  wind 

on  the  24th  was  blowing  from  the  southeast,  with  but  little  intermission,  temj).  being  as  low  as  —39.0 

(— 39.4°C.].     During  the  night  of  the  23rd  to  24th,  the  thermometer  had  registered  — 56.2  f— 49.0'' C] 

Distance  travelled,  11  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  10.30  a.  m.  to  4.30  p.  m. 

March  27M. — Temp.,  min.,  dur'g  night,  —44.0  [—42.2°  C.].  Observed,  10  a.  m.,  —23.0  [—30.6°  C.]; 
3p.  m.,  —20.0  [-28.9°C.];  4  p.m.,  -21.5  [-29.7"C.J;  6  p.m.,  — ii.5[-24.2"C.J. 

We  started  for  the  tent  by  fair  and  calm  morning,  the  thermometer  gradually  rising,  10  a.  m.,  —23° 
[—30.6°  C.].     The  barometer  showed  an  extraordinary  fall. 

The  sledge  being  heavily  loaded  our  progress  was  slow  and  tedious,  without  any  more  charms  of 
novelty.  At  noon  a  fresh  breeze  sprung  from  the  northeast,  and  when  we  entered  the  tent  its  velocity 
had  reached  about  30  miles  per  hour  [about  13"  per  second]. 

Temp,  at  6  p.m.,  —11.5  [  — 24.2°C].  Distance  travelled,  11  miles.  Hours  travelled, from  10  a.  m. to 
3.30  p.  m. 

March  zWi. — Temp.,  min.,  during  night,  —25.0  [  —  31.70  C.].  Observed,  6  a.  m.,  — 15.0  [—26.1°  C.]; 
7a.m.,  —20.0  [— 28.9°C.];  II  a. m.  in  sun,  —5.0  [  —  20.60  C.J;  11  a.  m.,  in  shade,  —18.0  [—27.8°  C.J;  8 
p.m., —25.0  [-31.7°  C.J. 

During  the  night,  the  wind  having  abated  in  the  morning  of  the  28th,  we  took  a  second  load  of  pro- 
visions to  Black  Cape  and  returned  to  the  tent.     Our  mythical  northern  line  had  disappeared. 

Distance  travelled,  8  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  8.30  a.  m.  to  8  p.  m. 

March  29M  — Temp.,  min.,  during  night,  —43.0  [—41.70  C.J.  Observed,  10  a.  m.,  —33.0  [  —  36.1  C.J; 
3p.m.,  —29.0  [—33-9°  C.J;  7  p.m.,  -36.5  [—38.10  C.J.  ^ 

We  proceeded  again  to  Lincoln  Bay,  with  empty  sledge,  and,  in  places,  riding  in  turn.  The  wind  had 
ceased  blowing  and  the  atmosphere  was  remarkably  clear.  For  the  first  time  the  influence  of  the  sun  upon 
the  snow,  glazing  its  surface,  while  the  temperature  stood  as  low  as  —36.0  [—37.8''  C.J,  was  observed.  When 
on  the  march  the  weather  seemed  too  warm  to  wear  sealskin  jumpers;  we  discarded  them  and  travelled  in 
guernseys.  From  the  foot  of  Cape  Union  I  could,  for  the  second  and  last  time,  see  to  the  northeast  the  coast 
of  Cape  Brittania  [Britanniaj,  Beaumont  Island,  and  some  of  the  adjoining  land.  To  the  south  the  faint 
outline  of  Cape  Constitution  evoked  reminences  [reminiscenses]  of  "The  good  Christian  knight,  Elijah  Kent 
Kane,"  and  set  my  mind  pondering  over  the  now  old  and  nearly  forgotten  fable  of  an  Open  Polar  Sea.  I 
was  standing  on  the  extreme  point  reached  by  the  poetical  vision  of  Hayes,  at  the  threshold  of  a  once  great 
mystery,  that  in  younger  days  had  so  profoundly  moved  my  imagination.  Instead  of  a  promised  sea  I  could 
view  nothing  but  the  stern  and  cold  reality  of  a  impenetrable  ice  pack. 

Distance  travelled,  1 1  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  • 

March  jfith. — Temp.,  min.,  during  night,  —52.0  [—46.7"  C.J.  Observed,  12  m.,  —  15.0  [— 26.i"'C.]; 
3p.  m., -8.s[-22.s''C.J;  7  p.  m., -io.s[-23.6°C.]. 

I  decided  that  the  day  would  be  one  of  rest  for  the  dogs,  with  an  extra  allowance  of  food.  Our  decision 
proved  wise  as  the  day  turned  out  stormy.  The  snow  drifted  with  such  abundance  in  the  vestibule  of  our 
igloo  that  Jens  and  Rice  were  several  times  obliged  to  use  the  shovel.     The  double  ration  had  been  a  God- 

*  Omission  in  original.    A.  W.  G. 


I-! 


1= 


i 


I  J 


Il 


M' 


!    I 


170 


TUK  liADY  FUANKLIN  HAV  KXl'EDITION. 


send  to  uur  poor  animals,  curled  up  and  covered  with  snow.     1  would  willingly  add  the  word  chilly,  if  after 
our  experience  of  last  winter  it  was  not  still  doubtful  in  my  mind  if  an  Kskimo  dog  really  ever  suHers  of  cold. 

The  temperature  from  —520  [—46.7°  C.J  during  the  night  had  raised  to  —8.5  [  —  22.5°  C.J.  We  over- 
haided  our  baggage,  and  Jens  dried  and  mended  our  boots  and  gloves.  At  6  p.  m.  the  storm  was  still  raging 
with  fury  over  our  .snow-bank,  where  inside,  cosily  muffled  up  in  my  sleeping-bag  at  the  light  of  an  Kskimo 
lamp,  I  wandered  with  an  interesting  traveller  through  the  deserted  halls  of  the  ruined  |)alaces  of  the  once 
imperial  Delhi,  under  the  warm  and  blessed  sun  of  old  India.  Rice  read,  lying  on  the  top  of  his  bag,  until 
midnight.  Jen.s,  or  the  little  man  as  he  is  generally  designated  with  us,  is  perha|)s  dreaming  of  a  rich  land 
of  seals  and  blubber. 

March  ^isf. — Temp.,  min.,  during  night,  —15.0  [  — 26.i°C.|.  Observed,  6  a.  m.,  —12.5  [  —  24.7°  C.J; 
8  a.  m.,  —14.0  [  —  25.6°  C.j;  1  p.  m.,  —17.0  (—27.2°  C.J ;  4  p.  m.,  —27.0  [—32.8°  C.|. 

In  the  morning  the  Kskimo  was  obliged  to  ilig  his  way  out  of  the  house ;  the  weather  was  clear,  the 
atmosphere  calm,  .-ind  the  temperature  mild.  At  8.jo  a.  m.  we  started,  reached  tlie  tent  at  .;  p.  m.,  and  at 
3.30  p.  m.  were  back  at  Lincoln  Bay. 

Distance  travelled,  i2|^  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  5.30  p.  m.  [8.30  a.  m.J  to  12  a.  m.  [3.30 p.  m.J. 

////-/■/  ij/. — Temp.,  min.,  during  night,  —35  [— 37.2''C.|.  Observed,  12  m.,  —30.0  [—34.4°  C.J;  4  p. 
m., -38.8  [-39.3°  C.J. 

I  decided  now  to  begin  night  travelling,  on  account  of  the  snow  being  in  places  so  .soft  during  the  day 
as  to  render  the  pulling  of  the  sledge  very  laborious.  The  work  had  lately  been  so  trying  on  the  dogs,  that 
last  night,  notwithstantling  another  extra  ration  of  food,  some  of  our  brutes  had  entirely  devoured  their 
harness.  Since  this  date  the  lashings  of  the  sledge  were  at  night  carefully  covered  with  snow,  the  traces 
taken  in  the  tent,  and  the  dogs  unharnessed  so  the  noses  of  the  worst  delincjuents  firmly  secured  with  a  thong 
of  sealskin.  At  5.30  p.  m.,  after  a  last  visit  to  the  Knglish  cache,  we  started.  'I'he  weather  was  calm,  clear, 
and  cold  —38.8  [—39. 3°  C.J.  The  snow  had  hardened  and,  notwithstanding  a  very  heavy  load,  our  ilogs 
were  walking  at  a  brisk  pace. 

Kverylhing  seemeil  to  be  complying  with  the  best  of  our  wishes,  when  at  a  (juarter  of  a  mile  south  of 
Cape  Union,  at  a  |)lace  where  to  double  the  cape  we  had  been  obliged  to  leave  the  foot,  and  where  we 
])assed  so  many  times  without  considering  any  extra  care  to  be  necessary,  the  right  runner  of  the  sledge 
broke  longitudinally  through  the  line  of  holes  bored  for  the  lashings.  I  will  certainly  not  try  to  describe 
my  feelings,  but  will  briefly  state  that  Rice  on  the  spot  offered  gallantly  to  start  for  home  after  a  new  runner. 
I  at  first  objected,  but  it  being  impossible  to  mend  the  sledge  we  afterwards  agreed  that  he  would  take  Jens 
and  make  his  way  to  Ft.  Conger  the  same  night. 

A/>ri/  2tid. — Temp.,  min.,  dur.  night,  —56.0  [—48.9°  C.J.     Observed,  i  a.  m.,  —42.0  [—41.10  C.J. 

The  sledge  being  lightened  of  nearly  all  the  provisions,  and  the  broken  runner  temporarily  fastened 
with  a  rope,  we  returned  to  the  snow-house.     At  i  p.  m.,  after  eating,  but  without  taking  any  rests,  my  brave 

traveller  started.    The  thermometer  registered  • ,  and  fell  during  the  night  to  —56.0  [—48.9°  C.J.    They 

were  to  be  absent  four  or  five  days.  Left  alone  and  without  a  watch  (my  chronometer,  affected  by  cold,  had 
stopped  since  the  21st  of  March),  it  needed  the  greatest  vigilance  on  my  part  to  keep  record  of  time.  In 
the  emergency  the  bold  Cape  of  Frederick  VII  became  a  rough  sort  of  sun-dial. 

April  yd. — I  climbed  the  high  hills  and  mountains  that  overlook  the  surrounding  country  and  marched 
for  20  hours.  My  object  was  to  see  if  an  inland  route  could  not  be  found  allowing  a  party  to  travel  in  the 
fall  from  Wrangel  Bay  to  the  Alert  winter  quarters.  At  the  highest  point  reached,  that  I  estimate  to  be  2,000 
feet  [6io'"J,  I  had  a  magnificent  view  especially  overland.  From  the  end  of  Lincoln  Bay  several  v.alleys  could 
be  seen,  which,  succeeding  to  each  other,  appeared  to  lead  towards  Wrangel  Bay.  In  another  direction  (NE.) 
I  could  distincdy  see  a  succession  of  sloping  hills,  cut  with  ravines  and  valleys,  by  which  I  think  it  is  possible 
to  reach  the  coast  at  the  entrance  of  some  of  the  numerous  openings  near  Floeberg  Beach. 

The  weather  was  magnificent,  and  for  the  first  time  this  year  I  could  see  the  sun  disappear  but  a  moment 
behind  the  long  and  snowclad  line  of  the  United  States  Range.  Between  these  and  a  lower  chain  of  hills, 
closer  to  the  coast,  the  distribution  of  light  and  shade  showed  plainly  that  a  large  and  extensive  valley  must 
exist,  running  from  NE.  to  SW. 

On  my  return  clouds  had  gathered  in  the  east  and  south,  and  masked  to  the  view  the  Greenland  coast. 
I  had  foreseen  the  approach  of  the  storm,  and  making  haste  I  reached  my  burrow  just  as  the  snow  was  drifting 
so  thick  as  to  hide  any  object  100  feet  [3o'"J  ahead. 

*Umission  in  ori(,ii.al.     A.  W.  G. 


THK  LADY  FUANKLIX  HAY  KXPKDITION. 


ifs 


April  Glh, — Tem|>fraturc  ohservcil  9.30  p.  m.,  —30.0*  [— 34.4»C.l.  In  the  morning  of  the  <itli  Jens  and 
Rice  returned,  carrying  a  new  sledgc-runncr.    They  had  a  remarkable  but  tiresome  march  of  •— —  hours 

going  and  of  • hours  returning,  by  a  temperature  of,  at  one  time,  —56.0  [— 48.9"!,  making;  at  least  • 

geographical  miles. 

Among  the  thousand  and  one  items  of  news  brought  from  home  was  a  letter,  in  which  you  instructed  me 
to  look  for  a  depot  of  90  lbs.  of  pemmican  left  by  t'ommander  Markham  near  View  Point,  anil  to  siijjplymy 
party  with  the  amount  that  I  would  judge  necessary. 

Th!s  unexpected  help  de<  idcd  me  to  leave  behind  the  cache  of  Wrangel  Hay  that,  on  his  return,  Rice 
had  visited  and  found  in  good  order.  At  9  |i.  m.,  my  two  travellers  having  rested  all  d."-,  we  left  Lincoln  Hay 
•nnd  made  the  tent  at  4.30  a.  m.     Distance  travelled,  1 1  miles. 

April  -jlh. — Temp.,  min.,  during  d.ay,  —26.5  [  — 32.s"'C.].     Obs.,  5  a.  m.,  —26.0  [  — 3a.2°  C.|;  8  p.m., 

-26.0  [-32.2"  C.]. 

(We  now  generally  travel  during  the  night.)  To  guard  the  sledge  against  any  accident  we  divided  our 
heavy  cargo  into  three  small  loads,  and  with  two  crossed  over  the  roughest  part  of  the  ice-foot  lo  Va\tc 
Union,  but  the  strength  of  the  wind,  at  times  25  to  30  miles  per  hour  f  1 1  to  13"'  per  second],  conipelled  us 
to  return  into  camp 'at  3  a.  m. 

Distance  travelled,  8  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  • 

April ?>lh, — Min., dur.  rest,  —13.0  [  — 25.o°C.].  Obs.,  n.30  a.  m.,  —12.0 [  —  24.40c.];  4  a.m.,  —14.0 
[  — 25.6°  C.];  7  p.m., —4.0  [  —  20.0°  C.];  8  p.m.  +4.8  [  —  15.1°  C). 

It  was  only  at  7  p.  m.,  of  the  8th,  that  (the  wind  having  abated  some)  we  could  start.  The  part  of  the 
load  that  was  intended  for  a  third  trip,  the  iireceding  evening  was  transported  at  Cape  Union  IVik.  We 
returned  again  at  10  p.  m.,  took  the  tent,  sleeping  gear,  etc.,  and  started  for  the  hast  time  from  Cape  Union. 
The  fact  that  we  had,  in  places,  to  carry  all  the  articles,  to  unhitch  the  dogs  and  drag  the  sledge,  will  show 
what  must  have  been  our  labor  and  the  difficulties  that  encumbered  the  road.  The  previous  day  the  sledge 
had  upset  but  once.  At  Cape  Union  Peak,  having  passed  the  worst  i)art  of  the  ice-foot,  we  increased  our 
weights  considerably,  leaving  behind  about  400  lbs.  of  English  beef,  reserved  for  dog  food.  The  wind,  that 
since  the  morning  of  the  7th  had  not  ceased,  was  then  blowing  such  a  gale,  perh-'.ps  36  to  40  miles  ( 16  to 
18'"  per  second]  that  in  places,  over  good  ice  glased  [«V]  by  the  sun,  it  jjushed  the  sledge  faster  than  the  dogs 
could  run,  and,  at  times,  threatened  to  break  it  against  the  hummocks  of  the  road.  Two  of  us  only  could 
keep  behind  and  steer;  the  other  followed,  being  often  compelled  to  stop  and  sit  down  to  save  himself  from 
falls  or  slides.  We  alternated  with  Rice,  and  reached  HLick  Cape  April  9th,  at  3  a.  m,,  having  managed  to 
escape  with  only  half  a  dozen  falls. 

Distance  travelled,  5  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  8  p.  m.  to  3  a.  m. 

April  ^th. — Temp.,  7  a.  m.,  +6.5  [—14.2°  C). 

The  temperature  was  about  zero  [  —  1 7.8°  C],  but  the  strength  of  the  wind  made  us  fully  appreciate  the 
advantage  of  a  colder  weather  with  a  calmer  atmosphere.  It  was  with  difficulty  that  we  could  pitch  the  tent. 
As  I  was  cooking  supper — or  breakfast — (we  now  could  never  agree  on  the  order  of  our  meals).  Rice  com- 
menced digging  for  a  house.  The  wind  blew  all  night  with  fury,  shaking  so  much  our  tent  that  we  scarcely 
slept.  Up  early,  I  prepared  breakfast  in  haste.  Rice  and  Jens  finished  the  house,  and  when  in  the  very  act 
of  moving  in  our  new  quarters  a  last  gust  of  the  gale  blew  the  tent  parUy  down,  scattered  many  of  our 
goods,  and,  as  an  immense  arrow,  lifted  the  sledge  and  buried  the  front  part  of  its  runners  in  a  snowbank 
fully  500  yards  [457'"]  distant.     It  was  then  3  a.  m.  of  April  loth. 

April  lot/i. — Temp.  5  a.m., 0.0  [ — i7.8''C.]. 

At  5  a.  m.  we  started,  the  wind  still  blowing  a  strong  gale.  As  we  could  but  with  difficulty  pass  around 
Black  Cape,  for  the  accumulated  pieces  of  berg,  we  took  to  the  ice,  notwithstanding  its  hummocky  appear- 
ance.   At  8  a.  m.  we  were  again  on  the  foot,  and  at  10  a.  m.  at  Cape  Rawson,  were  [where]  we  found 

ourselves  detained  for  • hours  by  the  violence  of  the  storm,  blowing  now  at  least  at  the  rate  of  45  miles 

an  hour  [20""  per  second].  It  was  not  only  dangerous,  but  nearly  impossible,  to  proceed  further.  Just  at 
the  Cape,  40  feet  [12"]  above  the  sea  level,  and  badly  sheltered  behind  blocks  of  paleocrystic  bergs,  we 
entered  the  sleeping-bags,  and,  drawing  the  flaps  over  our  heads,  stood  very  comfortably  the  assaults  and 
drifts  of  a  most  terrific  gale.     Velocity  of  the  wind,  45  to  50  miles  [20  to  22""  per  second]. 

Distance  made,  5^  miles.    Hours  travelled, from  5  a.m.  to  10  a. m. 

Aprilwth. — Temp.  3  a.  m.,  -|-io.o[— i2.2°C.];  i  p.m.,  +12.0  [— ii.i°C.];  2p.  m., +  17.0"  [—8.3  C.]. 

*  Omission  in  original. 


If 


fi       ' 


4i>     I     I 


111: 


I J 


172 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I 


At  3  a.  m.,  having  been  with  Jens  to  look  at  the  state  of  the  ice,  and  finding  it  really  worse  than  the  foot, 
we  carried  our  load,  \nece  by  piece,  for  a  distance  of  over  i,ooo  yards  [9i4"'J'  After  taking  a  cold  lunch 
(made  out  of  some  English  pemmican,  found  the  preceding  day  at  the  cape),  we  started.  The  sky  was 
cloudy,  the  drifting  still  heavy,  and  the  wind  blowing  with  a  velocity  of  30  to  35  miles  [13  to  16"'  per  second]. 
From  Cape  Rawson  the  coast  slopes  more  gently  to  seawards,  and  from  Flocberg  lieach  to  Cape  Sheridan, 
and  perhaps  to  Harley's  Spit,  can  always  be  travelled  by  the  bays  in  the  fall.  At  six  p.  m.,  we  turned  around 
a  small  jioint  of  the  coast  and  descended  from  a  snowy  slope  on  the  shore  of  Flocberg  Beach.  The  storm 
had  ceased  since  an  hour,  leaving  in  its  stead  the  weather  uncomfortably  warm.  A  heavy  lead-colored  sky, 
contrasting  fearfully  with  the  whiteness  of  the  fresidy  drifted  snow,  lent  to  the  surrounding  landscape  a 
gloomy  appearance.  From  a  distance  we  could  see  a  large  cairn  on  the  top  of  the  Alert's  lookout,  and 
lower,  on  the  brow  of  a  smaller  hi'l,  some  dark  object  that  at  first  we  took  for  a  cache,  but  was  soon  found 
to  be  the  tomb  of  Petersen.  Ben  ith  the  large  stone  that  covers  the  remains  of  the  Danish  interpreter  a 
hare  had  taken  up  his  residence,  strangely  associating  the  fact  of  his  presence  with  the  words  of  the  epitaph 
engraved  on  a  copper  plate  at  the  head  of  the  tomb:  "He  shall  wash  me  and  I  shall  be  as  white  as  snow." 
From  this  hill  our  hopes  of  finding  a  sea  free  from  paleocrystic  floes,  had  vanished.  About  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  coast,  against  which  was  j)ressed  the  thickest  agglomeration  of  hummocks  that  we  had  yet 
seen,  and  as  far  as  the  view  could  extend  (by  somewhat  thick  weather),  perhaps  ten  or  twelve  miles,  the  ice 
was  nearly  of  the  same  character  as  the  pack  described  by  the  officers  of  the  Altit.  Few  days  later  we  were 
unfortunately  destined  to  make  a  closer  acquaintance  with  these  unmerciful  floes.  The  comparatively 
narrow  band  of  heavy  and  tightly  pressed  hummocks,  of  which  I  have  just  spoken,  bordered  the  shore  from 
(.'ape  Rawson  to  Cape  Sheridan. 

Certainly,  in  this  neighborhood  the  floes  had  been  broken  up  and  the  coast  perhaps  navigable  at 
some  time  in  the  summer  or  fall,  but  at  what  risk,  and  with  how  much  danger,  it  is  difficult  to  say.  A  ship 
tossed  by  a  northeast  storm  on  this  exposed  shore,  without  a  harbor,  and  pressed  between  such  piles  of  ice, 
will  run  great  risks. 

Captain  Nares,  somewhere,-speaks  of  a  line  of  grounded  bergs  that  served  as  a  harbor  and  shielded 
their  ship  from  the  pressure  of  the  pack  and  perha;>s  from  total-destruction.  This  spring  no  floe-bergs  could 
be  seen  around  the  place  where  the  Ahrt  must  h  ve  dropped  her  anchor  in  1875.  No  signs  of  paleocrystic 
ice  [were  observed]  closer  than  about  a  mile  and  a  ualf  from  the  coast.  After  taking  a  good  survey  of  the 
neighborhood  we  resumed  our  march.  The  weather  seemeil  so  warm  that  when  travelling,  even  in  shirt 
sleeves,  our  foreheads  were  wet  with  perspiration.  Along  the  coast  we  found  many  indices  of  the  British 
stay — here  an  cmiily  barrel,  there  a  piece  of  wood  stuck  in  the  ground,  and,  near  Cape  Sheridan,  the  hoops 
forming  the  binding  of  a  flower  corbeille  showed  the  spot  where  their  garden  had  grown.  We  were  struck 
by  the  abundance  of  snow  that  covered  the  surrounding  country. 

At  Cape  Sheridan  three  barrels  superposed,  and  a  small  boat-mast,  to  which  was  still  attached  a  halyard, 
marked  the  place  of  the  highest  flagstaff  from  which  had  ever  floated  a  Union  Jack.  Here  we  left  the  shore 
and  travelled  towards  Harley's  Sjjit  over  apparently  continuous  paleocrystic  ice. 

Distance  travelled,  loi/^  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  3  a.  m.  to  1  p.  m. 

April  \2II1. — Temp.,  min.,  during  rest,  —2.0  [— i8.9°C,];  i  a.  m.,  -{-3.5  [— i5.8°C.];  6.  a.  m.,  0.0 
[-  17.8°  C.];  9  a.  m.,  +  4.0  [-i5.6°C.]. 

The  1 2th  of  April,  the  weather  having  been  clear  in  the  morning,  we  had  a  good,  but  distant,  view  of 
Cape  'lenry,  Rawlins  Bay,  Marco  Polo  Bay,  and  Depot  Point.  At  2.45  a.  m.,  leaving  the  tent  pitched,  we 
started  for  Black  Cape  after  another  load  of  provisions.  Tiie  Aleri  quarters  were  passed  at  6  a.  m.  and  the 
snowhouse  of  Black  Cape  readied  at  9  a.  m. 

During  our  absence,  the  storm  that  at  Cape  Rawson  had  drove  [driven]  us  to  our  bags,  must  have 
raged  here,  blockading  the  entrance  of  the  house  and  scattering  our  ehect'.  and  provisions  nearly  500  yards 
[457"'J  ffom  behind  the  rock  where  they  had  been  cached.  The  icefoot  was  covered  with  large  and  small 
stones  falling  from  the  clifls.  At  the  very  same  place  where  our  tent  stood  laid  several  heavy  blocks  of  slate. 
From  Cape  Union  to  Floeberg  Beach  jjarties  travelling  by  windy  days  are  continually  exposed  to  the  fall  of 
projectiles  from  these  ragged  and  desingragated  [disintegrated]  tops.  The  weather  was  now  really  so  mild 
and  so  pleasant  that  Rice  and  Jens  slept  outdoors  in  their  bag;  I  still  remained  faithful  to  the  snowhouse. 

Apl.  \2,th. — Temp.,  11  a.  m.,  +  <J'S  [— 14'2°  C.]. 

At  10  p.  ni.,  April  1 2th,  [13th]  we  left  Black  Ca|)e  for  1  larley's  Spit  with  a  lighter  load  than  the  one  we 
had  previously  carried.     ^Vhen  at  Floeberg  Beach,  we  ascended   the  Alerts  lookout  to  take  copy  of  the 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXrEDlTlON. 


173 


British  record  and  to  deposit  our  own.    This  cairn,  a  solid  mass  of  i)iled  up  stones,  ten  f^et  (3"']  high  by 
eight  [2.4'"]  wide — that  will  stand  the  storm  of  many  winters — is  of  an  imposing  aspect. 

About  five  feet  [1.5'"]  from  the  ground  a  large,  iron  cylinder,  sealed  probably  by  the  engineers  of  the 
ship,  and  in  which  are  secured  the  documents  of  the  British  expedition,  is  so  firmly  hold  by  an  enormous 
weight  of  stones  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  tear  down  half  of  the  monument  to  get  at  its  contents,  Heing 
wanting  in  tools  to  cut  through  thick  iron,  and  scared  at  its  probable  weight,  we  contented  ourselves  with 
leaving  our  record  in  an  air-tight  rubber  mat<h-box  well  secured  by  heavy  rocks  on  the  side  of  the  Knglish 
document. 

Distance  travelled,  16  miles.     Hours  travelled,  from  2  45  a.m.  to  9  a. m,* , 

April  \\th. — Temp.,  3  a.  m.,  0.0  [—17.8°  C.J ;  2  p.  m.,— 5.0  [  —  20.6°  C.J ;  3  p.  m.,— lo.o  [  — 23.3°  C.J; 
7p.m.,-i3.s[-25.3°C.I. 

Oui  nours  of  travelling  had  been  lately  so  much  interverted  by  bad  weather,  few  long  marches,  and  some 
oversleeping,  that  the  13th  of  April  we  were  again  travelling  during  the  day.  The  weather  was  beautiful, 
the  temperature  high,  and  not  a  breath  of  wind  was  stirring.  From  Cape  Sheridian  to  View  Point,  the  ice 
was  a  real  paleocrystic  pack,  extending  as  far  as  the  view  could  reach.  Until  10  a.  m.  the  travelling  was  fair, 
but  afterwards  it  became  so  tiresome,  through  deep  and  recently  fallen  snow,  already  softened  by  the  sun, 
that  at  I  p.m.  we  stopped,  and,  without  pitching  the  tent,  waited  until  9.05  p.  m.  to  start  again.  At  12  a.  in. 
the  hauling  of  the  sledge  being  still  too  hard  on  the  dogs  and  the  progress  made  very  small,  we  unloaded 
half  of  our  cargo,  and  then,  making  better  time,  at  3  a.  m.,  April  15th,  we  camped  on  the  ice  at  View  I'oint, 
half  a  mile  from  the  coast,  where  Lt.  Aldrich,  on  his  return  journcv,  with  a  scurvy-stricken  party,  in  June, 
1876,  had  abandoned  a  depot  of  provisions. 
Distance  travelled,  16  m. 
April  iit/i, — Temp.,  i  a,  m.,-f-io.o  [— i2.2°C.]. 

From  Harley's  Spit  we  had  travelled  nearly  in  a  straight  line  to  View  Point.  Rice  and  Jens  returned 
lor  the  complement  of  our  stores.  I  marched  to  the  foot  of  Conical  Hill  and  hunted  over  the  whole  neigh- 
borhood for  the  cache  of  pemmican  left  by  Commamler  Markham,  It  was  in  vain!  The  depot  must  have 
been  removed,  as  it  could  not  possibly  have  escaped  my  careful  search.  The  cache  of  Lt.  Aldrich  consisted 
of  174  lbs.  bacon  and  pemmican.  In  the  uncertainty  in  which  I  had  stood  concerning  the  state  of  these 
provisions,  I  was  now,  even  without  the  help  of  Commander  Markham,  more  fully  supplied  than  I  had 
expected  to  be  when  leaving  Ft.  Conger. 

Distance  made,  16  miles.     Hours  travelled,  fromt . 

April  16//1.— Temp.,  6  a.  m.,  0.0  [  —  17.8°  C.J ;  in  the  tent,-f  29.0  (  —  1.7"  C.J. 

I  sent  Rice  and  Jens  to  Harley's  Spit  to  bring  a  load  of  alcohol  and  preserved  mr.^t  that  we  had  been 
unable  to  transport  on  the  1 4th,  and  that  I  expected  to  leave  behind  haii  1  found  the  cav  he  of  Commander 
Markham.  During  the  absence  of  the  sledge  I  explored  again  the  neighboriiood,  returned  to  Conical  Hill 
where  I  observed  numerous  traces  of  muskoxen  and  on  the  snow  abundant  fresh  tracks  of  lemmings,  i)tar- 
migan,  hares,  and  foxes. 

From  a  high  hill  of  Fcilden  Peninsula  I  could  see  into  James  Ross  Hay.  The  ice  there  did  not  appear 
to  be  very  rough,  but  from  where  I  stood  the  view  was  faint.  The  bareness  of  the  ground  in  many  places, 
overland,  and  the  softness  and  depth  of  the  .snow  in  others,  decided  me  to  travel  around  Cape  Henry.  In 
the  country  over  which  I  pas.sed  near  View  Point,  I  had  found  numerous  signs  of  animal  life  and  also  proof 
of  more  abundant  vegetation  than  at  any  other  place  north  of  Discovery  Harbor.  Except  the  foot-prints 
of  our  bear  at  Wrangel  Bay  .and  few  tnacks  of  foxes,  hares,  and  lemming,  we  had  reen  since  March  no 
indices  of  anim.il  life.     Rice  travelled  32  miles. 

^//v/ 1 7///.— Temp.,  12  m.,  +8.5  [-13.1°  C.J;  7  p.  m.,  +  i.o  [- 17.2° C.J. 

Starting  the  same  day,  at  7.05  p.  m.,  wc  carried  our  provisions  in  two  loads  to  about  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  Conical  Hill,  from  where,  traveling  over  a  good  and  continuous  sheet  of  level  new  ice,  we  reai  bed 
to  about  a  mile  south  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry.  The  ice  of  this  floe  was  paleocrystic,  but  to  us  of  a  yet  un- 
known nature,  differing  in  character  from  what  we  had  travelled  over  between  Harley's  Spit  and  the  south 
side  of  Conical  Hill.  Between  the  two  last-named  places  the  pack  was  composed  of  floes,  circular  and  nearly 
level  but  not  of  great  dimension,  the  largest  being  perhajw  a  mile  and  a  half  in  extent. 

At  the  edges  of  these  was  a  fringe  of  bergs  an  1  hummocks.     Between  them  were  ditches  or  crevices, 
from  five  to  twenty  [about  4  to  i.H"'J  or  even  fifty  yards  [46'"J  wide,  and  which  must  have  been  at  some  time 
♦Perhaps  belongs  under  April  I2th;  see  that  <lnte,— A.  W.  G,  fUmission  in  original,— A.  W,  O. 


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THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


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filled  by  young  ice.  These  hollows,  originally  from  three  to  seven  feet  [.9"  to  2""]  deep,  were  now  shallow  and, 
in  places,  nearly  filled  by  a  mixture  of  fresh-water  ice  and  frozen  snow.  Thr  -reastwork  of  hummocks  that 
once  must  have  made  their  access  difficult,  had  lost  of  its  height,  and  liki  the  edge  of  the  ice  itself  was 
considerably  smoothed.  Under  the  powerful  influence  of  the  sun  of  several  summers  the  union  of  the  pack 
presented  a  more  even  and  a  better  route  for  travelling.  In  every  place  where  the  recently  fallen  snow  had 
blown  off  the  ice  was  fresh  and  good  for  cooking. 

From  Cape  Sheridan  to  View  Point  there  is  a  complete  absence  of  last  year's  ice,  and  also  of  tide 
marks.  In  presence  of  these  facts  I  think  it  logic  to  conclude  that  these  floes  have  been  leveled  by  the  thaw 
and  rain  of  at  least  a  summer. 

The  sea  was  then  closed  to  navigation  last  fall  or  perhaps  for  several  years.  The  fields  of  young  ice,  on 
which  we  camped  at  about  ten  or  fifteen  feet  [3  or  5'"]  from  the  tidal  line  of  the  foot,  extended  in  width 
to  about  two  miles  from  the  coast.  At  a  very  short  distance  north  it  united  with  the  paleocrystic  pack 
and  as  a  very  narrow  strip  ran  along  the  coast  to  the  west. 

The  young  ice,  inchased  [sic]  to  the  northeast  and  south  by  century  floes,  proove  \su\  again,  that,  during 
fall,  the  and  under  the  same  atmospheric  influences  than  the  coast  below,  perhaps  at  the  same  time  the 
sea  must  have  been  open. 

Time  travelled,  9.40  p.  m.  to  7.40  a.  m.     Distance  travelled,  8  miles. 

/l/>n/  lith  and  i()th. — Temp.,  i8th,  10  a.  m.,  —5.5  [— 2o.8°C.];  n  p.  m.,  — lo.o  [—23.3° C.J.  April 
19M,  all  day  occillating  between  — 10  and — 12  [  — 23.3C.  and  —24.4°  C.J. 

We  passed  the  i8th  and  19th  in  our  tent,  being  unable  to  travel  on  account  of  a  storm.  The  19th 
one  of  our  dogs  died.  To  the  last  cheerful  and  warm  days  had  succeeded  a  cold  and  stormy  weather.  Again 
condensation  of  moisture  was  deposited  on  the  walls  of  the  tent,  and  when  the  dogs,  to  shelter  themselves, 
laid  against  the  canvas,  we  were  deluged  by  cold  showers  of  snow. 

April  20th. — The  20th  the  \vind  was  still  blowing  with  force,  but  leaving  the  tent  at  3  a.  m.  we  ad- 
vanced a  load  of  provisions  about  four  miles  from  our  camp  and  two  miles  on  the  pack  north  of  the  cape. 
We  returned  to  the  tent  at  1 1.30  a.  m. 

Time  travelled,  3  a.  m.  to  11  a.  m.     Distance  travelled,  8  miles. 

April  2  If/. — The  day  of  April  21st  opened  bright  and  with  a  clear  sky.  The  wind  was  blowing  from 
the  south  only  at  a  velocity  of  3  or  4  miles  per  hour[i.3  or  1.8"'  per  secondj.  We  started  at  1.15  a.  m.;  on 
the  way  took  our  load  of  provision  and  stopjied  at  7.30  a.  m.,  camping  on  the  pack  four  miles  from  the  coast 
and  about  five  from  Cape  Henry.  As  I  prepared  supper  Rice  and  Jens  started  for  a  part  of  our  load  that 
had  been  again  left  behind.  At  1 1  a.  m.  they  returned,  having  been  caught  in  a  violent  storm  from  fhe 
SP2.  The  previous  day  when  north  of  Cape  Henry,  at  the  spot  where  we  deposited  part  of  our  load,  and 
from  the  top  of  some  high  floebergs,  we  had  an  excellent  but  discouraging  look  at  the  pack. 

West  of  the  line  of  young  ice,  that  bordered  the  mass  Cape  Henry,  the  Polar  Sea  was  of  such  rough 
appearance  that  no  sledge,  even  lightly  loaded,  could  have  made  any  progress  over  its  discorded  surface. 
It  was  notliiiig  but  an  inextricable  maze  of  huge  bergs  and  of  enormous  hummocks  piled  up  in  a  similar 
manner  as  when  travelled  over  by  Con.rnander  Markham,  who,  I  am  glad  to  say,  has  certainly  not  exag- 
gerated his  hardships  or  cloaked  his  description  with  romantic  colors.  If  such  was  the  ice  over  which  the 
British  dragged  heavy  loads  and  cumbersome  boats,  instead  of  being  astonished  at  the  small  distance  daily 
travelled,  I,  on  the  cositrary,  sympadiize  with  them  in  their  sufferings,  admire  their  perseverance,  and  applaud 
heartily  their  pluck  and  gallantry. 

Directly  north  of  Cajjc  Henry,  and  at  a  certain  distance  from  us,  perhaps  three  or  four  miles,  the  con- 
fusion of  the  ice  was  the  same ;  discouraging  in  its  compactness.  To  the  northeast  this  line  of  thick-ribbed 
ice  lowered,  and  due  north  of  Cape  Hecla  seemed  to  be  of  a  less  ponderous  character.  It  was  there  that 
the  2ist  of  April  we  had  decided  to  take  a  northward  course;  stumbling  over  a  less  dense  pack  we  could 
add  the  advantage  of  establishing  a  depot  for  our  return,  and  of  getting  a  good  view  from  the  summit  of 
the  high  cliffs  of  Hccla. 

The  ice  over  which  we  travelled  since  we  hail  left  the  young  floe  at  Cape  Henry,  for  not  being  so  bad 
as  the  floes  in  the  offing,  was  nevertheless  in  many  places  of  a  very  difficult  access.  It  differed  from  what 
we  had  found  between  Harley's  Spit  and  Conical  Hill,  in  the  fact  that  here  the  edges  of  the  floes  were  cut 
at  sharp  angles,  and  that  the  hollows,  some  of  which  measured  a  depth  of  seven  feet  [2"'J  and  a  width  of 
from  <^o  to  100  yards  [46  to  91  ""J,  had  not  yet  been  partly  filled  with  the  melted  snow  of  previous  seasons. 


THE  LADY  FRA.NKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


175 


Some  were  fortified  with  fringes  of  high  hummocks,  between  or  over  which  we  passed  with  difficiiUy.  Others, 
like  immense  pieces  of  flat  and  broken  crystal,  offered  a  perpendicular  ascent  and  descent  from  and  in  deep 
snow. 

Smaller  and  treacherously  concealed  cracKs,  in  which  dogs  often  disappeared  and  men  sank  to  the  waist, 
were  numerous.  , 

Time  travelled,  from  i  a.  m.  to  7.30  a.  m.     Distance  travelled,  10  miles. 

April  22(f,  '82. — The  22A  of  April  we  were  up  at  3  a.  m.,  the  night  having  been  exceedingly  storny. 
Wind  from  SE.,  about  40  miles  per  hour  [about  18'"  per  second].  At  5  a.  m.,  the  tent  remaining  pitched, 
we  started  for  "  Cape  Hecla."  To  the  stormy  atmosphere  of  the  night  had  succeeded  a  calm  and  warm  day, 
streaming  with  light,  but  without  shadows,  and  enveloping  everything  in  a  tiresome  uniformity.  The  pack, 
covered  in  places  with  deep  snow  and  rough  ice,  appeared  to  us  as  an  even  float  over  which  the  tops  of 
the  highest  bergs  alone  would  project.  A  few  yards  ahead  of  our  sledge  we  could  scarcely  detect  the  un- 
evenness  of  the  ice,  and  occasionally,  at  our  feet,  we  were  obliged  to  look  or  to  feel  if  to  raise  or  to  lower 
the  step.  Our  sense  of  vision  was  disagreeably  confused.  The  horizon  appeared  clear,  and  everything 
showed  distinctly  except  in  our  immediate  neighborhood.  To  the  left  the  high  mountains  of  James  Ross 
Bay  detached  vividly  their  ice  clad  peaks  from  the  cloudless  background  of  a  pale  blue  sky,  as  to  the  west 
Crozier  Island  its  summit,  bald  of  snow,  over  the  fringes  of  bergs  and  hummocks  that  bordered  our  horizon. 

We  were  advancing  since  two  hours,  and  the  deceptions  of  the  nearing  had  ceased.  Some  black  spots 
in  the  unfractuosity  of  the  cliffs  of  Cape  Hecla  were  showing  with  enough  distinctness  to  already  attract 
our  attention,  when  suddenly  Jens  exclaimed,  "Water"!  After  a  careful  search  over  the  horizon,  failing  to 
perceive  anything,  and  thinking  that  perhaps  he  meant  a  tidal  crack,  we  proceeded;  but  half  an  hour's  march 
told  the  tale.     The  unmistakable  signs  of  water  had  struck  the  keen  vision  of  the  Eskimo. 

We  stopped  the  sledge  in  the  center  of  the  paleocrysticiue  [paleocrystic]  float  on  which  we  stood  and  at 
once  advancing  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  we  climbed  to  the  top  of  a  high  marginal  wall  of  rubble  and  bergs. 
At  our  feet  a  band  of  hummocky  ice,  of  a  more  recent  forn-ation,  extended  for  two  or  three  hundred  yards 
[183  or  274'"!;  then  to  the  coast.  Cape  Hecla,  a  channel  was  open  a  mile  wide,  in  which  floated  to  the  SE., 
and  at  a  velocity  of  about  two  miles  per  hour  [.g™  per  second],  small  and  rare  pieces  of  ice.  For  three  or 
four  miles,  as  far  as  the  perspective  allowed,  the  eye  could  follow  them.  Here,  on  account  of  the  convexity 
of  the  floes,  the  line  of  water  seemed  to  close  at  the  entrance  of  James  Ross's  Bay  against  a  margin  of  ice 
and  about  by  the  meridian  of  Crosier  Island.  To  the  west  this  oi)ening,  increasing  in  width,  passed  Cape 
Hecla,  extending  as  far  as  we  could  see  from  hummocks  thirty  feet  [9'"]  high.  From  the  side  of  the  i)ack 
wheie  we  stood,  following  the  edges  of  our  floes  and  several  larger  ones  above,  it  took  a  more  northerly 
direction.  Here  again,  as  to  the  SE.,  a  convex  curve  of  the  j)ack,  the  deception  of  perspective,  and  in  the 
ofting  high  fringes  of  hummocks  closed  to  the  view  its  northern  extension.  When  at  first  .ascending  to  ')ur 
place  of  observation,  the  heart  of  Jens  was  tenderly  moved  by  the  appearance  of  a  fiord  seal. .  Smacking 
his  lips  and  winking,  our  Eskimo,  in  an  extraordinary  quick  oration,  interrupted  I  -  sighs  and  mixed  with 
expressions  of  the  deepest  epicurian  love,  paternally  addressed  the  amphibio^.s  anim.il.  Thinking  that 
perhaps  with  a  change  of  tide  the  pack  would  move  towards  the  coast,  we  decided  to  return  to  our  camp 
and  bring  the  rest  of  our  baggage. 

When  starting  it  certainly  appeared  to  us  that  the  ice  had  pivoted  more  to  the  north,  taking  Feilden 
Peninsula  as  base  of  evolution.  The  comp.ass  having  been  left  in  the  tent  we  drove  in  the  snow  an  extra 
cross-piece  of  the  sledge  and  took  sight  at  Cape  Hecla.  When  we  returned,  I't  1 1.35  a  m.,  the  pack  still 
moving  in  the  same  direction  had  considerably  shifted  to  the  north,  opening  to  our  view  new  lines  of  coast 
and  three  capes,  of  which  I  took  the  farthest  to  be  t'ape  Columbia.  The  channel  had  now  wiilened  at  least 
one  mile  between  us  and  Cape  Hecla.  An  opening,  large  enough  for  a  dozen  ships  to  steam,  extended  in 
the  direction  of  the  farthest  promontory  from  which  r.aised  dense  clouds,  indicating,  perhaps,  the  presence 
of  more  extensive  water.  Far  to  the  north,  beiiind  the  convex  band  of  our  floats,  and  still  at  a  greater  dis- 
tance to  the  E.  and  NE.  of  Cape  Henry,  the  experienced  eye  of  Jens  detected  again  in  liie  sky  faint  but 
unmistakable  signs  of  water.  Still  the  current  or  tide  was  setting  to  the  SE.  As  the  channel  of  water 
seemed  there  not  to  extend  at  the  most  farther  than  the  coast  of  Feilden  Peninsula,  wc  supposed  that  the 
pack  must  still  bear  on  Cape  Joseph  Henry.  But  this  conclusion  was  drawn,  with  the  protest  of  Jens,  who 
afhrmed  seeing  water  along  the  coast  of  James  Ross's  Bay  and  Feilden  Peninsula.  To  proceed  north  was 
now  out  of  the  question. 


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176 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


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Dark  water-clouds,  thick  to  the  west  and  to  the  north  and  northeast,  distinctly  seen  by  our  Eskimo, 
showed  that  water,  of  an  extent  that  certainly  it  had  been  difficult  to  determine,  must  be  open  on  the  pass 
laid  before  us.  The  whole  pack,  or  at  least  extensive  floats,  disaggregated,  probably,  by  the  numerous  and 
violent  storms  of  April,  and  perhaps  set  in  motion  during  the  gale  of  the  previous  night,  had  broken  from 
the  margin  of  young  ice  that  must  have  bounded  the  coast  from  Conical  Hill  to  an  unknown  distance.  As 
it  was  impossible  to  successfully  perform  the  task  for  which  we  had  perseverently  labored,  we  decided  at  once 
to  reach  Cape  Henry. 

Dividing  in  haste  our  load,  and  taking  of  our  effects  what  was  indispensable,  with  enough  provisions  to 
sustain  ourselves  and  the  dogs  for  several  days,  we  at  once  started  over  the  road  previously  followed.  In 
the  evening,  at  4.30  p.  m.,  we  arrived  opposite  Cape  Henry,  where  we  found  a  large  channel  of  water  extend- 
ing from  the  edge  of  the  pack  to  the  ice-foot  of  the  cape,  about  J^  to  a  mile  in  extent.  Once  more  the  cor- 
rectness of  Jens'  observation  had  not  been  at  fault. 

As  our  retreat  was  now  entirely  cut  off — and  as  for  the  present,  out  of  a  hundred  means  of  escape  no 
good  one  could  be  planned — we  decided  to  remain  here,  six  or  seven  hundred  yards  [549  or  640'"]  from  the 
water,  on  a  large  and  heavy  paleocrystique  [paleocrystic]  floe,  surrounded  and  protected  by  thick  armor  01 
compact  ice.  As  we  would  soon  have  to  keep  a  continued  watch.  Rice  turned  in  his  bag  to  rest,  and  I 
started  with  Jens  and  the  team  after  the  load  left  near  Cape  Hecla. 

At  8  p.  m.  we  were  once  more  at  our  place  of  observation,  where  again  we  saw  the  seal.  The  water- 
clouds  had  expanded  into  blnck  vapors,  and  the  channel  from  the  edge  of  the  float  to  the  cape  [HeclaJ  was 
at  least  three  miles  wide.  To  the  N.  and  NE.  the  clouds  first  detected  by  Jens  were  now  very  distinct.  Still 
the  current  or  tide  was  floating  pieces  of  ice  towards  Cape  Herry.  The  sledge  once  packed,  I  waved  the 
"  Stars  and  Stripes  "  and  started  east,  being  at  a  latitude  of  82°  56'  N. 

My  design  was  now,  if  possible,  to  transport  my  provisions  on  the  ice-foot  of  Cape  Henry,  and  to  follow 
the  coast  as  far  as  fifteen  days  of  full  rations  would  allow  us,  preserving  10  days  for  the  return. 

A/iri/  23//,  '82. — I  reached  the  camping-floe  at  3  a.  m.,  April  23d,  having  experienced  a  heavy  northeast 
snow-storm,  blown,  evidently,  from  the  open  water.  During  our  march  the  floe  had  shifted  to  the  east. 
Tired  and  sleepy,  and  for  the  present  condemned  to  inaction,  we  entered  our  bags,  leaving  Rice  on  observa- 
tion at  the  top  of  a  berg  nearly  30  feet  [9'"]  high.  At  7  p.  m.,  having  slept  only  few  hours,  the  watch  called 
me.  The  pack  was  shifting  to  the  east,  opening  now  to  the  view  the  south  coast  of  Feilden  Peninsula  as  dn 
as  Conical  Hill.  To  seaward,  for  about  3  or  4  miles  south  and  6  or  7  east,  floats  were  broken  and  in  motion. 
The  wind  had  again  changed  its  direction  and  was  blowing  from  the  SE.  To  the  west  deep  and  prolonged 
roaring  proved  that  the  pack  must  be  now  grinding  against  the  coast. 

Without  discussing  on  what  could  have  happened  if  we  had  stayed  on  the  float,  I  will  say  that  we 
decided  to  load  at  once  with  our  most  indispensable  effects,  and  with  food  enough  to  reach  Harley's  Pit  (SpitJ. 
Leaving  behind  all  our  provisions,  and  the  tent  still  pitched,  we  drove  to  the  foot  of  Cape  Henry.  The 
pack  was  here  grinding  against  the  perpendiculer  wall  of  a  high  ice-foot  about  40  feet  [12'"],  and  in  places 
pressing  up  large  pieces  of  rubble  from  the  fringes  of  the  paleocrystique  [paleocrysticj  floes.  Large  blocks  of 
ice,  of  great  solidity,  and  which  had  been  wedged  between  the  foot  and  the  pack,  were  split  under  such 
pressure  and  raised  in  succession  to  fall  again  over  the  tidal  line. 

Rice,  in  whose  judgment  and  decision  I  would  implicitly  trust,  advised  to  cross  here,  but,  knowing  the 
peevish  disposition  of  the  Eskimo  dogs,  and  their  obstinacy  when  crossing  over  loose  ice,  I  hunted  for  a 
better  |)lace.  lieing  unable  to  find  any  we  returned  to  the  cape,  and  after  clearing  the  traces  we  pushed 
the  (logs  where  Rice  had  first  suggested  to  |)ass.  As  l)y  magic,  at  the  very  instant  in  which  we  advanced 
the  jiack  stopped.  It  had  reached  the  moment  when  the  contrary  impulse  lately  given  by  the  south  wind 
contra  acting  the  impulse  from  the  preceding  NW.  gale,  produced  immobility.  The  dogs  began  to  fight, 
and  Jens,  quite  stunned,  busied  himself  with  details  ordinarily  very  appropriate  in  driving,  but  for  the  present 
out  of  season.  I  pushed  to  the  sledge  as  hard  as  ever  I  have  pushed,  while  Rice,  unhitching  a  dog,  led  the 
way.  At  the  wall  of  the  foot  we  unloaded,  and,  having  hoisted  our  brutes  with  a  sealskin  lash,  we  pulled 
up  our  articles  and  afterwards  the  sledge. 

Once  out  of  the  lion's  jaws,  we  felt  that  it  would  be  unwise  to  return  on  the  pack.  The  deep  groans  of 
the  ice  proved  that  the  motion  had  not  entirely  stopped,  and  that  at  any  moment  the  floes  could  be  set  again 
in  motion,  and  perhaps  seperate  [sic]  us  from  parts  of  our  provisions.     Moreover,  the  ice,  as  far  as  we  could 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


177 


see  to  the  east  and  south,  through  an  atmosphere  overcast  with  water-clouds,  was  broken  up  and  still  drift- 
ing south.     To  us  it  was  probable  that  Robeson  Channel  was  open,  and  the  greatest  haste  was  necessary. 

If  the  ice  had  broken  between  Cape  Henry  and  Cape  Sheridan,  we  would  have  been  obliged  to  follow 
the  indentation  of  the  coast  around  numerous  bays,  depending  for  our  subsistence  on  three  or  four  day's 
rations.  After  melting  ice  and  eating  a  handful  of  pemmican  we  started,  followed  by  the  grinding  noise  of 
the  pack,  similar  to  the  spasmodic  breathing  of  gigantic  tugboats. 

At  the  foot  of  Conical  Hill,  where  we  had  previously  taken  to  the  young  ice,  the  paleocrystic  pack,  that 
I  thought  had  withstood  the  decay  of  last  summer,  was  still  firmly  fastened  to  the  shore. 

April  2\th,  '8?. — At  12  m.,  April  24th,  '82,  we  camped  at  View  Point.  From  this  day  we  were  obliged 
to  sleep  in  our  bags  without  the  shelter  of  a  tent.     Distance  made,  5  miles. 

April  25,  '82. — At  8  a.  m.,  April  25,  '83,  we  deposited  a  record  in  the  old  EngUsh  cairn,  and  travelled 
all  day  in  the  worst  and  the  thickest  snow-storm  that  I  have  ever  encountered. 

We  reached  Harley's  Pit  [Spit]  at  6  p.  m.     Distance  travelled,  16  miles. 

April  id,  '82 — 9  a.  m.  ,  —  3.0  [—19.4°  C.J;  9  p.  m.,  — lo.o  [—23.3°  C.].  At  9  a.  m.,  April  26,  we  were 
again  on  the  road  and  following  our  outward  tracks  which,  in  many  places,  could  yet  be  found ;  at  7  p.  m. 
we  reached  the  snow  house  of  Black  Cupe.  From  Cape  Sheridan,  south  of  the  paleocrystic  pack,  the  ice 
was  broken,  in  motion,  and  in  places  separated  by  large  lanes  of  water.  To  the  north  and  northeast  the  sky 
was  dark.     Distance  travelled,  16  miles. 

April  27. — 10  ::.  m.,  —5.5  [—20.8°  C] ;  8  p.  m.,  — ...o  [  —  20.0°  C.].  The  27th  of  April  the  wind  blew 
from  the  south  and  opened  between  the  solid  ice  of  I.  son  Channel  and  the  loose  floes  above,  a  space  of 
about  a  mile  wide,  and  of  which  the  transversal  end  Oisappeared  two  or  three  miles  from  the  coast  in  brown 
vapors  of  open  water.  This  day  we  travelled  over  solid  ice  to  Lincoln  Bay.  Distance  travelled,  1 5  miles. 
Time  travelled,  from  8.30  p.  m.  to  5  a.  m. 

Aptil  28  and  29 — 28th,  7  a.  m.,  —5.0  [  —  20.6°  C] ;  7  p.  m.,  —6.5  [  -21.4°  C]  29th,  3  a.  ni.,  —7.0 
[— 2i.7°C.];  9  p.m.,  -lo.o  [-23.3°  C.]. 

The  28th  and  29th  of  April  we  searched  for  an  inland  route  between  Lincoln  and  Wrangell  Bay,  but 
being  led  to  \sic\  far  to  the  west  and  north  we  returned  to  the  coast,  having  travelled  about  30  miles. 

April  30,  '82 At  4  a.  m.,  April  30,  we  camped  at  Wrangell  Bay.     Hours  travelled,  from  9  a.  m.  to  4 

p.  m.     Distance  travelled,  8^  miles. 

May  I, '82. — 9  a.  m. +1.0  [—17.2°  C.];  9  p.  m., +13.0  [—10.6°  C.]. 

The  first  of  May,  at  6  a.  m.,  we  were  once  more  at  the  fastly  decaying  snow  house  at  Shift  Rudder  Bay. 
Distance  travelled,  14^!^  miles. 

May  2d,  '82. — The  2d  of  May  we  entered  Ft.  Conger,  having  been  unsuccessful  in  the  main  object  of 
our  journey,  but  having  determined  the  important  fact  that  last  fall  open  water  could  have  been  found  as 
far  as  Cape  Sheridan,  and  from  Conical  Hill,  perhaps,  to  Cape  Columbia.  Moreover,  our  experience  confirm, 
to  a  certain  extent,  that  of  the  Polaris,  and  prove  that  even  in  so  high  a  latitude  the  pack  may  be  in  motion 
at  any  early  period  of  the  year,  perhaps  at  any  time.  I  am  firmly  convinced  that,  but  for  the  misfortune  of 
finding  open  water,  we  could  have,  without  yet  distancing  much  Commander  Markham,  reached,  perhaps, 
the  latitude  of  84°  N.  Although  I  had  been  stopped  by  water,  where  I  expected  to  travel  over  ice,  I, 
nevertheless,  disbelieve  the  existence  of  an  open  polar  sea.  "A  myth  to  the  ignorant  and  a  wonder  to  the 
wise."  Notwithstanding  a  careful  lookout  kept  by  our  party,  no  signs  of  the  presence  of  the  'yeanette 
could  be  found.  We  returned  in  excellent  health.  Daily  rations  of  lime-juice  had  been  issued  during  the 
outward  march.  Rice  has  showed  himself  to  be  of  the  greatest  assistance.  His  natural  intelligence,  accom- 
panied with  his  education,  his  sound  judgment,  and  his  great  perseverance,  recommend  him  as  the  best  of 
companions  and  as  a  man  fit  in  any  way  to  command  a  party. 

I  add  here  the  list  of  Government  stores  taken  from  caches,  and  those  left  on  the  polar  pack  north  of 
Cape  Joseph  Henry: 

Stores  taken  from  Wrangell  Bay :  14  lbs.  of  pemmican ;  i  can  of  butter;  i  can  of  milk;  i  can  of  extract 
of  beef. 

Stores  from  Mt.  Parry :  30  lbs.  of  dog  pemmican  (70  lbs.  were  eaten  by  a  bear) ;  about  7 5  lbs.  of  bread ; 
4  cans  of  butter. 

Provisions  left  on  the  float :  * 


M 


^\  '' 


*  This  list  of  provisions  was  not  given  in  the  original,  in  which  half  a  page  was  left  blank  evidently  for  the  purpose  of  enter- 
ing them.     A.  W.  Greely,  Lt. 

H.  Mis.  393 12 


1'1 


178 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


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Respectfully  submitted  to  ist  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely,  sth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Asst.,  commanding  the 
Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 

Octave  Paw, 
Acting  Assistant  Surgeon,  U.  S.  Army, 
This  report,  incomplete  in  many  respects,  has  been  received  only  at  this  late  day  (July  23)  after  repeated 
orders  and  requests  for  its  prompt  rendition. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding  Expedition. 
Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yufy  23,  1882. 


Appendix  No.  48. — Sergeant  Ricc^s  report  on  detached  trip  from  Lincoln  Bay  to  Fort  Conger 

and  return. 

Fort  Cokger,  Grinnell  Land,  yuly  24,  1882. 

Sir:  In  accordance  with  your  wish,  I  hereby  submit  a  short  statement  of  the  main  features  of  my 
uneventful  tramp  to  the  home  station  (to  procure  sledge-runner)  while  a  member  of  your  northern  sledge 
party  m  March  and  April  of  this  year. 

As  you  will  remember,  we  left  Lincoln  Bay  for  the  North  at  6.30  p.  m.,  April  i ;  and  the  false  start  resulting 
in  our  misfortune  at  Cape  Union,  and  return  to  the  snow  house,  occupied  five  and  a  half  hours.  Another 
hour  was  passed  in  waiting  for  the  pannikin  of  tea  for  you  and  us,  and  in  making  our  preparations,  after 
which,  at  1  a.  m.,  April  2, 1  started,  accompanied  by  Jens.  We  took  with  us  the  shoe  of  the  broken  runner, 
as  you  thought  it  would  expedite  the  work  on  a  new  one  at  Fort  Conger. 

Our  outfit  was  extremely  simple,  consisting  of  a  small  spirit  lamp,  a  little  spirits,  and  sufficient  preserved 
meat  and  chocolate  for  a  lunch.  We  also  carried  large  knives  with  which  to  dig  for  ourselves  a  burrow  in 
the  hard  snow  should  we  be  overtaken  by  storm  or  accident  before  reaching  our  first  possible  resting  place, 
thesnowhutat  Shift  Rudder  Bay.  The  thermometer  .stood  — 42°  [— 4fi°  C]  when  we  started ;  thesunwas 
just  appearing  above  the  icy  horizon  to  the  north,  pouring  a  flood  of  light  down  the  straits,  coruscating  and 
glistening  on  the  hummocks  and  ice-points  in  our  rough  path  in  a  manner  that  caused  us  to  lose  sight  of  the 
beauty  of  the  scene  in  the  discomfort  of  the  effect  upon  our  eyes.  It  was  difficult  to  wear  our  goggles  as  the 
condensing  moisture  obscured  them  and  rendered  our  steps  uncertain. 

Thinking  we  could  effi;ct  a  shorter  route  by  foot  over  the  bay  than  that  necessarily  taken  by  the  loaded 
sledges,  we  struck  directly  across  for  the  bold  point  of  Cape  Frederick  VII.  We  soon  found  ourselves  com- 
plef.'  ly  beset  by  hummocks  and  snow-drifts;  and  were  glad  to  find  the  original  path  indicated  by  the  marks 
of  tlic  sledges.  We  traveled  rapidly,  checking  our  pace  only  when  we  alternated  in  carrying  the  shoe;  and 
examined  our  faces,  which  sometimes  required  the  application  of  a  warm  hand  to  efface  the  white  seal  set 
upon  us  by  the  slight  breeze  that  was  storming.  Considerable  elation  was  felt  when  our  tenting  place  in 
Wrangell  Bay,  representing  one  day's  march  while  outward  bound,  was  passed.  We  experienced  much 
difficulty  in  progressing  through  the  great  confusion  of  hummocks  and  rubble  ice  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay. 
We  soon  after  fell  in  with  our  bear  tracks ;  and,  inadvertently  following  them  for  a  short  distance,  found  the 
traveling  so  much  improved  that  we  unhesitatingly  followed  them  through  the  intricacies  along  the  ice-foot, 
and  had  no  cause  to  regret  our  choice.  Bruin's  admirable  ice  pilotage  partly  condoned  his  offense  in  eating 
our  pemmican. 

We  began  to  weary  about  the  time  Cape  Beechey  was  doubled ;  and  the  remaining  four  miles  around 
the  long  curve  of  Shift  Rudder  Bay  was  not  made  with  ease.  My  companion,  who  before  had  always  a  re- 
assuring smile  and  shake  of  the  head  to  my  "Tired,  Jens  ?"  now  began  to  reply  less  confidently,  and  soon 
answered  with  a  strong  affirmative;  though  he  still  cheerfully  reminded  me  that  it  was  his  turn  to  carry  the 
iron.  The  walking  from  Cape  Beechey  to  depot  B  was  very  tiresome,  though  smooth,  as  the  frosty,  sandy  snow, 
resting  on  the  ice,  furnished  a  very  unstable  foothold,  our  polished  moccasins  slipping  back  half  the  stride 
which  was  already  short  enough. 

Despite  our  strong  desire  to  move  on,  progress  without  occasional  rests  was  not  easy  to  make,  and  a 
line  of  small,  decayed  hummocks  skirting  our  course  furnished  us  with  resting  places.  As  soon  as  we  would 
touch  the  icy  seat  I  would  find  myself  dozing,  and  would  discover  Jens  with  his  head  nodding  to  his  breast, 
or  stretched  at  full  length  on  the  snow  fast  asleep.     When  near  depot  B  Jens  wished  to  stop  and  rest  awhile, 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  IJAY  EXPEDITION. 


179 


but  I  induced  him  to  proceed  to  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  my  destination.  I  then  leff  him  and  went 
on  to  the  hut,  intending  to  look  to  him  so  soon  as  a  f..o  was  started.  He  joined  me  in  about  fifteen  minutes. 
Doubtless  Jens's  exhaustion  was  due  to  the  greater  exertions  he  made  and  worry  he  had  undergone  in 
getting  the  dogs,  with  broken  sledge,  back  to  Lincoln  liay,  for  T  am  sure  that  Iiis  powers  of  endurance  are 
greater  than  my  own. 

We  reached  the  snow  house  at  2.30  p.  m.,  altogether  nineteen  hours,  and  covering  at  least  forty  miles. 
It  is  difficult  to  state  exactly  the  distance  traveled,  as  our  ])ath  through  the  rough  ice  was  very  tortuous,  and 
a  long  detour  had  to  be  made  in  getting  out  of  Lincoln  Hay.  We  turned  in  the  sleeping-bag,  after  a  hasty 
meal  of  baked  beans,  which  we  gave  hardly  time  to  thaw.  I  intended  resuming  the  march  in  a  few  hours — 
as  soon  as  we  had  been  rested — but  did  not  succeed  in  waking  until  8  o'clock  the  next  morning,  .^pril  3. 
We  had  trusted  our  toot-gear  to  the  influence  of  the  stove,  but  after  rising  were  compelled  to  return  to  the 
warm  bag  and  nurse  it  (our  foot-gear)  into  flexibility.  We  started  for  the  home  station  at  1 1  a.  m.,  and  arrived 
there  eight  hours  later.  We  attempted  several  short  cuts,  but,  with  the  exception  of  the  one  across  Brenta 
Bay,  fared  worse  than  if  we  had  followed  the  old  track.  The  weather  was  very  pleasant,  compelling  us  to 
doff  our  lemiuks  [hooded  seal-skin  jackets]  and  suspend  them  to  our  belts. 

Our  sudden  and  unexpected  reappearance  at  Fort  Conger  caused  considerable  excitement  and  appre- 
hension for  the  safety  of  our  party.  On  reporting  to  the  commander,  he  at  once  ordered  the  carpenter  to 
begin  making  a  new  runner,  and  he  worked  on  it  until  midnight.  We  learned  that  the  large  Greenland 
party  had  just  departed,  and  had  missed  meeting  us  by  proceeding  around  Distant  Cape  while  we  Avere 
cutting  across  land  from  Water-course  Bay. 

On  Tuesday,  April  4,  after  another  good  meal,  surrountied  by  the  comparatively  luxurious  appoint- 
ments of  Fort  Conger,  Jens  and  I  started  back  to  join  you  again.  The  sledge-runner  was  completed,  and 
Lieutenant  Greely  made  the  arrangement  so  advantageous  to  us  that  he  would  follow  us  to  depot  B  with 
Lieutenant  Lockwood,  who  was  to  start  in  a  few  hours  with  Jewell,  Frederick,  and  dog-sledge,  to  join  the 
main  party.  We  reached  depot  B  at  11.30  j).  m.,  finding  the  Creenland  party  just  arrived  from  depot  A. 
Lieutenant  Lockwood,  with  dog  sledge,  came  in  at  3  a.  m.,  next  morning.  • 

Wednesday,  April  5,  at  3.30  p.  m.,  we  bid  "good-by  "  to  the  Greenlanders,  who  had  entertained  us  so 
kindly,  and  moved  on  northward.  We  carried  the  runner  by  supporting  part  of  its  weight,  only  allowing 
one  end  to  drag.  We  assumed  the  burden  alternately  and  made  very  good  time.  The  temperature  when 
starting  was  only  —22  [— 30.0°  C],  but  the  cold  increased  perceptibly,  although  we  had  no  means  of  measuring 
its  intensity.  We  entered  Wrangell  Bay  at  midnight,  and,  keeping  inside  the  line  of  our  hummocks  at  its 
entrance,  visited  the  cache  on  the  north  side,  finding  everything  in  good  condition — nothing  disturbed  by 
the  bear.     After  stopping  long  enough  to  melt  a  little  ice  we  continued  on  around  Mount  Parry. 

The  morning  of  Thursday,  April  6,  was  bright  and  clear,  and  we  entered  Lincoln  Bay  in  a  dazzling 
blaze  of  light.     On  nearing  the  snow  house,  Jens  was  received  by  more  than  three  cheers  from  his  dogs,  and 
a  few  moments  later  I  was  giving  you  the  latest  news  from  Fort  Conger.     It  was  6  a.  m.     We  had  traveled 
the  distance  from  depot  B,  including  the  stops  at  Wrangell  Bay,  in  about  fifteen  hours. 
Yours,  respectfully, 

Geo.  W.  Rice, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Scn'ia:  U.  S.  Army. 

Dr.  Octave  Pavy, 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon,  (J.  S.  A. 


Appendix  No.  49. — Private  Loitj^\s  report  on  trip  into  Arc/irr  Fiord. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnei.l  Land,  May  20,  1882. 

Sir:  In  compliance  with  your  order  of  May  14,  directing  me,  with  Private  William  Whisler,  to  proceed 
to  Depot  Point,  in  Archer  Fiord,  and  examine  the  provisions  at  that  point,  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the 
following  report : 

We  left  Fort  Conger  at  12.05  ^-  '^•>  ^^V  '5'  ^^'^^^  Hudson  Bay  sledge  Pol/y,  arriving  at  tent  in  Basil 
Norris  Bay  at  9.30  a.  m.  At  this  point  I  left  Private  Whisler  at  7  p.  ni.,  and  proceeded  ahead  on  snow-shoes, 
directing  him  to  follow  with  the  sledge  and  await  my  return  at  Keppel  Head. 


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THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


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i  1 1 


i 


I  arrived  at  the  latter  point  at  2  a.  m.,  16th.  From  here  proceeded  to  Depot  Point,  where  I  arrived  at 
11.30  p.  n».,  and  found  the  depot  in  good  condition,  except  a  portion  of  the  hard  bread,  which  had  become 
mouldy  from  exposure. 

The  depot  contained  the  following  provisions : 


Articles. 

Amount. 

Condition. 

I'enimican ... 

84  lbs 

21   lbs. 

71  ll>s 

Good. 

Do. 

Moldy. 

Good. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Kacon  

Hard  bread. ... 

Chocolate 

51/  lbs        

Sucar 

10 '4  lbs              .    .   .. 

I'otatoes 

lo"^  lbs 

2M  lbs 

Tea 

Salt 

10^  oz 

Pepper   .           .     . _ 

A>4  0/.           

Onion  powder 

Rum 

10',^  OZ   _       .  .       . 

1  gall,  and  10  gills  .. 

2  calls.  (?) 

Spirits  of  wine  .     . 

Tobacco .                

2  lbs.  5  OZ    . 

A  considerable  <|uantity  of  stearinc  was  found,  which  had  melted  and 
run  over  the  hard  bread. 

I  left  at  12.45  *•  ""m  ^1^^>  meeting  Private  Whisler  at  Hare  Point.  He  had  left  the  sledge  at  Keppel 
Head.  We  arrived  at  the  latter  point  on  our  return  at  i  p.  m.,  and  made  camp.  I  had  been  on  the  match 
for  thirty  hours  with  no  refreshment  except  at  Depot  Point.  We  left  Keppel  Head  at  9  p.  m.,  reaching  the 
tent  at  7  a.  m.,  i8th.     We  broke  camp  at  8  p.  m.,  and  arrived  at  Fort  Conger  at  2.15  a.  in. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Francis  Long, 

Lieut.  A.  W.  CiREELV,  Bivate,  Company  F,  Ninth  Infantry. 

First  Lieut.,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Co>nmanding  Expedition, 

appf:ndix. 

I  was  unable  to  find  the  depot  of  192  rations — as  given  on  the  map  of  the  English  expedition — at  Hil- 
lock's Depot.  I  made  a  thorough  search,  but  concluded  that  the  cache  was  covered  with  snow,  which  was 
very  deep  at  this  point. 


Note. — Depot  visited  by  Private  Long  proved  to  be  Hillock's  Deiwt.  The  112  rations  left  in  bags 
could  not  be  found,  nor  notice  left  by  Lieutenant  Archer,  R.  N.,  regarding  them.  As  Depot  Point  had  84 
rations,  the  error  was  natural  to  Private  Long,  who  found  (as  did' Lieutenant  Lockwood  subsequently)  84 
rations,  and  84  only,  at  Hillock's  Depot. — A.  W.  G. 

Depot  for  12- man  sledge  for  7  days  =  84  rations. 

Pemmican  (one  56;  one  28  lb.  tin) ..84lbs.  o     oz. 

Bacon  (one  20  lb.  tin ;  i  lb.  bacon  in  ])Otato  tin) 21  lbs.  o      oz. 

Biscuit  (50  lbs.  in  India-rubber  case;  23  lbs.  8  oz.  in  potato  can) 73  lbs.  8      oz. 

Chocolate 5  lbs.  4      oz. 

Sugar. 2  ll)s.  10     oz. 

Tea 2  lbs.  10      oz. 

Sugar_. - 7  lbs.  14      oz. 

Potatoes 10  lbs.  8     oz. 

Salt olbs.  \oyi  oz. 

Pepper olbs.  A'A  oi. 

Onion  powder olbs.  10^  oz. 

Rum I  gall.  10  gills. 

Methylated  spirits.. I  gall.  10  gills. 

Stearine 15  lbs.  12     oz. 

Tobacco ........ 2  lbs.  10     oz. 

Robert  W.  Archer. 


THK  LADY  I'ltANKUN   HAY   KXlMiDITION. 


Appendix  No.  50. — Sergeant  Israefs  report  on  trip  into  the  Hellows. 


181 


Fort  Conger,  Grinneu,  Land,  yutie  16,  1882, 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report  on  my  trip  to  the  Bellows  Valley.  I  left  the  station 
on  May  25,  at  1 1.25  p.  m.,  with  Private  Connell.  We  took  with  us  the  light  Hudson  Bay  sledge  Polly,  five 
days'  provision,  spirit  lamp,  snow-shoes,  pocket  sextant,  artificial  horizon,  prismatic  compass,  an  aneroid 
barometer,  maximum  and  minimum  thermometers  (Beck's),  a  rifle  and  ammunition.  We  reached  Musk-ox 
Bay  at  1  a.  m.  of  the  26th.  From  this  point  we  kept  the  ice-foot  as  far  as  French  Cape,  finding  pretty  fair 
traveling;  reached  the  tent  at  head  of  Basil  Norris  Bay  at  6.20  a.  m.  At  7  a.  m.  the  exposed  thermometer 
read  +7.5  [  —  13.6°  C.];  aneroid  barometer,  30.23  [767.83"""];  attached  thermometer,  30  [  —  1.1°  C.].  Wind, 
calm.     Clouds,  upper,  cirro-stratus,  ■^,  moving  from  the  north  slowly. 

During  our  march  we  saw  numerous  wolf,  fox,  hare,  lemming,  an<l  musk-ox  tracks ;  also  saw  several 
musk-oxen  on  Sun  Peninsula  moving  eastward.  Breakfasted  at  7.10,  and  then  retired  and  slept  until  6  p.  m. 
The  meteorological  instruments  read  as  follows:    Thermometer,  exposed,  +14.0  [  — lo-o'C.];  min.,  +7 

[— i3.90°C.J;  max.,  +2o[— 6.7°C.];  bar.,  30.16  [766.05' ];  att.ther.,31  [  — o.6°C.j.     Wind,  NW., light. 

Clouds;  cirrus,  T%,  calm ;  no  lower.     Weather  clear. 

Left  the  tent  at  7.25  p.  m.,  and  after  an  hour  and  a  (piarter's  hard  pulling,  over  partially  bare  ground, 
we  reached  Bleak  Head.  As  seen  from  this  point  the  Bellows  was  entirely  bare  of  snow  for  a  distance  of 
about  six  miles.  I  therefore  thought  it  best  to  leave  the  sledge  at  this  point  to  devote  the  night  to  an 
exploration  of  the  Black  Rock  Vale,  and  after  a  rest  to  go  up  the  Bellows  as  far  as  possible  without  sledge. 
At  8.45,  bar.,  30.16  [766.05"""] ;  att.,  39  [  +  3.3"  C).  Compass  bearing  of  entrance  of  vale,  203°  30'.  To 
reduce  compass  bearing  to  true  bearing  E.  of  N.,  add  77°  50',  the  magnetic  variation  being  102°  10'. 

After  half  an  hour's  walk  we  came  to  a  creek  bed  filled  with  snow ;  this  induced  me  to  change  my  pur- 
pose and  go  back  for  the  sledge,  which  we  reached  at  9.40  p.  m.  Temperature  of  air,  4-23."  [  — 5-o"  C.]. 
After  about  an  hour's  hard  pull  over  bare  ground  we  reached  the  creek  bed  and  followed  this  up  the  Bellows. 
The  snow  soon  got  so  deep  that  we  put  on  our  snow-shoes  at  1 1.20.  Made  camp  at  12.20  a.  m.,  of  the  27th, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  valley  about  i^  miles  below  Devil's  Head.  At  this  camp  we  found  a  considerable 
quantity  of  coal  and  some  pieces  of  wood  among  the  sand;  also  numerous  pieces  of  substances  resembling 
resin.  The  valley  in  the  vicinity  had  been  recently  crossed  by  a  herd  of  musk  cattle,  there  being  numerous 
tracks  crossing  the  valley  diagonally  NE.  to  SW.  Bar.,  30.05  [763.26"""];  att.  then,  36  [+2.2''  C.j;  exp. 
ther.,  34  [-|-i.i°C.].  Wind  N.,  light.  Clouds,  upper,  cirro-cumulus,  ^q,  calm,  no  lower.  After  supper 
Connell  found  the  skull  of  a  musk-ox,  of  apparently  great  age.  Retired  at  1.30  a.  m.  At  n.30  a.  m.,  bar., 
30-05  [76326"""];  att.  then,  40  [+4-4°  C.J;  exp.  then,  35.0  [+1.7°  C] ;  min.,  30.0  [—1.1°  C.j;  max.,  45.0 
[-1-7.2°  C.].     Wind  S.,  .noderate.     Upper  clouds  hidden;  lower,  stratus,  10,  calm. 

-  Left  Camp  II  at  12.20  p.  m.  At  Devil's  Head,  1.15  p.  m.,  ban  read  30.00  [761.99"""];  att.  then,  38 
[-(-3.3°  C.];  exp.,  34.5  [-|-i4°  C.].  Made  camp  at  3.50  p.  m.,  about  four  or  five  miles  btlow  what  seemed 
to  be  the  end  of  the  valley,  or  a  sharp  turn  in  it.  At  5  p.  m.,  ban,  29.95  [760.72"'"'] ;  att.  then,  36  [4-2.2°  C.]; 
exp.,  32.9  [-1-0.5°  C].     Wind  S.,  strong.     Upper  clouds  hidden  ;  lower,  stratus,  10,  calm. 

We  made  our  camp  in  a  ravine  on  the  west  side  of  valley,  about  three-eighths  of  a  mile  above  a  point 
of  low  land  extending  over  half-way  across  the  valley  from  the  west. 

May  28. — Got  up  at  12.00  midnight.  At  12.02  a  m.,  ban,  29.96  [760.97"""];  att.  then, 32  [0.0°  C];  exp., 
29.5  [— 1.4°  C  ];  min.,  29.0  [—1.7°  C.];  max.,  42  [  +  5.6°  C.].  Wind  S,  light.  Upper  clouds  hidden ;  lower, 
stratus,  10,  NE.  C).  Started  to  climb  a  mountain  on  the  west  side  of  valley,  but  after  ascending  about  100 
feet  [30""]  we  saw  a  herd  of  fourteen  musk-oxen  asleep  just  above  our  camp.  We  then  returned,  and  Connell 
shot  two  cows  and  a  yearling.  After  driving  off  the  rest  of  the  herd  we  skinned  these.  Had  breakfast  at 
3  a.  m. 

The  sun  having  in  the  mean  time  broken  through  the  clouds  I  took  six  sights  for  longitude  and  six  for 
magnetic  variation.  Deduced  longitude  west  of  Fort  Conger  6™  10.4"  [in  time] ;  <p  81°  47.7'.  Magnetic 
variation,  102°  10'  W. 

While  taking  these  observations  Connell  saw  a  wolf  or  fox  on  the  mountain  to  our  west.  Placing  our 
instruments  on  the  sledge,  we  started  for  the  end  of  the  valley  at  4.50  a.  m.  and  arrived  at  the  turn  at  6.50. 
The  valley  here  turns  to  the  north  and  narrows  rapidly,  the  mountain  on  the  west  being  high,  while  on  the 
east  the  land  slopes  up  very  gradually.  At  6.55,  ban  29.85  [758.18"""] ;  att.  then,  37  [-|-2.8°  C.];  exp.,  31.5 
[—0.3°  C.J.     I  sent  Connell  up  the  mountain  on  the  west  while  I  proceeded  up  the  valley  Jbr  about  three 


I:,' 


.1 


m: 


<  » 


182 


TDK  LADY  FltANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


miles.  The  valley  at  this  point  is  about  30  rods  [about  iso"]  wide  and  splits  into  two  narrow  ravines,  one 
extending  up  a  mountain  side  for  about  a  mile,  and  the  other  terminating  in  the  same  manner  alter  extend- 
ing to  the  north  about  three  miles.  As  there  is  no  turn  in  either  of  these  passes,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  valley  ends  here  instead  of  communicating  with  another  running  in  from  the  east,  as  I  first  thought,  I 
returned  to  the  sledge  at  8.50,  and  Connell  aniveil  about  ten  minutes  later.  He  re|K)rted  that  the  lai.  \  was 
a  high  plateau  as  far  as  he  could  see ;  his  view  was  partially  obscured  by  low  clouds.  He  identified  several 
peaks,  the  bearings  of  which  he  took.  At  9.05,  aneroid,  29.86  [758.43'""'];  att.  ther.,  42  [-(-5.60  c.];  exp. 
ther.,  33.1  [-f-o.6''  C.].  The  barometer  at  top  of  mountain  read  28.30  [720.84'""'].  Took  a  set  of  circum- 
meridian  altitudes,  twelve  sights.  Deduced  latitude  81°  53.9'.  Longitude,  by  dead-reckoning  from  Camp 
III,  7™  44.4"  [in  time]  W.  of  l-ort  Conger. 

Compass  bearings:  Center  of  valley,  N.  395°  00'  SK.  70  30°'.     C?amp  III,  75°  55'. 

Arrived  at  Camp  III  at  2.15  p.m. 

May  29. — Breakfast  at  3  a.  m.  At  3.30  a.  m.,  bar.,  29.78  [756.40"""] ;  att.  ther.,  36"  [-f  2.2°  C.];  exp. 
ther.,  31.9°  [—0.1°  C].     Two  sun  dogs  22°  from  sun.     Left  Camp  III  at  4.15  a.  m. 

Compass  bearings:  I-'rom  Camp  III,  jjlace  wliere  observation  was  taken,  265°  45';  point  of  lowland, 
distant  ^  of  mile,  69°  30';  from  jioint  of  lowland  cairn  erected  near  the  meat  (256°  00');  Camp  III,  256° 
00' ;  along  center  of  valley  SE.,  80"  1 5' ;  along  center  of  valley  N  \V.,  257°  30' ;  point  at  the  turn  of  Bellows 
on  east  side,  262°  30'. 

Stopped  at  5.20  a.  m.,  about  three  miles  above  Devil's  Head,  to  take  measurements  of  width  of  valley 
and  height  of  cliffs.  Width,  4,280  ft.  [1,304'"] ;  height  of  cliffs,  west,  1,999  ft.  [609"'];  east  (1,325  ft.  [404""]) 
[?].  Arrived  at  Devil's  Head  at  7  a.  m.  Aneroid,  29  94  [760.46"'"']  ;  att.  ther.,  34°  [-f  i.i°  C.].  Arrived 
at  Camp  II  at  8.35  a.m.  At  8.50  a.  m.,  bar.,  29.91  [759.70'"'"];  att.  ther.,  46°  [7.8°  C.j  exp.,  40.8° 
[-1-4.9°  C.].     Upper  clouds,  cir.  strat.,  -,i„,  calm,  no  lower. 

Compass  bearings:  From  Devil's  Head,  center  of  valley,  259°;  north  entrance  of  Black  Rock  Vale, 
92°  5'.     From  Camp  II,  Devil's  Head,  287°  j';  south  entrance  of  Black  Rock  Vale,  97°  5'. 

Took  set  of  circum-meridian  sights  for  latitude  of  Camp  II.  Sun  obscured  after  5th  sight.  Approxi- 
mate latitude,  81°  45'.6.  Left  Camp  II  at  1 1.36  a.  m. ;  came  to  low  ground  about  one  mile  and  a  half  NE.  of 
I  eak  Head.  We  found  it  impo.ssible  to  pull  the  sledge,  antl  had  to  carry  the  greater  part  of  our  load  on  our 
backs,  and  come  back  for  the  sledge.  We  finally  found  some  snow  when  within  a  mile  of  the  tent,  which 
we  reached  at  4  p.  m.    At  4.30  j).  m  ,  bar.,  29.95  [760.72"'"'];  att.  then,  42  [+56°  C.J;  exp.  ther.,  36° 

[-1-2.2°  C.]. 

Afay  30. — Got  up  at  6  a.  m.,  but  turned  in  again  as  it  was  stormy;  it  had  snowed  all  night.  Got  up 
again  at  9  a.  m.  As  the  weather  was  not  improving  I  determined  to  delay  no  longer,  although  it  had  been 
my  desire  to  determine  the  position  of  the  tent.  Before  leaving  took  an  inventory  of  the  provision,  &c.,  at  the 
tent.  At  9.50,  bar.,  30.10  [764.53"""];  att.  then,  44  [-1-6.7°  C.];  exp.,  27  [  —  2.8°  C.]  Wind,  E.,  strong. 
Upper  clouds  hidden,  lower,  nimbus,  10,  calm.     Snow. 

Left  tent  at  10.15  ^'  "'•     Arrived  at  P'ort  Conger  at  5.15  p.  m. 
I  remain,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Edward  Israel, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cai^alry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  I'ranklin  Bay  Expedition. 


liii 


li    1 


Appendix  No.  51. — Lieutenant  /.ockn<ood\s  orders  to  explore  north  coast  of  Greenland. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  21,  1882. 

Sir:  You  are  hereby  charged  with  the  full  control  and  arrangement  of  the  most  miportant  sledging 
and  geographical  work  of  this  ex|)eiiition,  the  exploration  of  the  northeastern  coast  of  Greenland. 

In  assigning  you  to  this  duty  I  am  not  unaware  of  the  difficult,  if  not  embarrassmg,  position  in  which 
you  are  necessarily  ])laced,  from  our  inability  to  lay  out  suitable  depots  to  the  northeast  during  the  past 
autumn,  from  the  limited  number  of  your  supporting  parties,  and  from  your  working  with  a  wide  shait, 
covered  with  the  roughest  ice,  between  your  base  of  supplies  and  field  of  operations. 


1  J 


TIIK  LADY  FUANKLiN  »AY  KXl»Kl)ITION. 


183 


„ 


The  enterprise,  energy,  and  discretion  displayed  during  your  attempt  in  November  last  to  cross  Robeson 
Channel  in  furtherance  of  this  work,  united  to  your  en<iurance  and  experience  (shown  by  nearly  200  niiii's 
field  work  this  season,  with  temperature  hjwer  than  ninety  degrees  below  the  freezing  point  [  —  50°  C.|),  give 
me  strong  assurances  that  lack  of  success  will  be  through  no  fault  of  yours. 

There  will  be  at  your  disposal  for  this  work :  Sergeants  Urainard,  I. inn,  Ralston,  Jewell,  Klison, 
and  Corporal  Salor;  Privates  Biederbick,  Connell,  Frederick,  Whisler,  and  one  other  to  be  selecteil.  I'<>g- 
slcdge  Antoinette,  with  its  team  of  eight  dogs,  and  its  driver,  Frederick  T.  Christensen,  are  placed  at  your 
disposal,  with  such  Hudson  Hay  sledges  as  you  wish.  These  men  dragging  the  supporting  sledges  will  be 
used  in  such  manner,  and  for  such  length  of  time,  as  you  deem  best.  The  details  for  the  trip  will  be 
arranged  by  you.  Memoranda  showing  the  location  of  all  supplies  to  the  northward  of  depot  A,  and  the 
sledging  ration,  will  be  at  once  furnished  you. 

The  object  of  your  work  will  be  to  explore  the  coast  of  Greenland  near  Cape  Britannia.  Should  you 
be  fortunate  enough  to  pass  beyond  that  point  you  will  proceed  in  such  direction  as  you  think  will  best 
carry  out  the  object  of  this  expedition — the  extension  of  knowledge  regarding  lands  in  the  polar  circle. 

At  your  farthest,  whether  by  land  or  sea,  at  least  one  day  will  be  spent  in  determining  accurately  your 
position,  in  ascertaining  the  thickness  of  the  ice,  the  dejith  and  teMi[)erature  of  the  water,  and  such  other 
observations  .is  arc  jiracticable.  It  is  particularly  to  be  desired  that  the  period  and  character  of  the  tides 
be  noted,  if  any  way  possible.  From  the  farthest  land,  specimens  of  th:j  various  rocks,  vegetation,  &c., 
should  be  obtained.  During  any  day  spent  in  rest  similar  observations  and  collections  should  be  made.  A 
careful  watch  should  be  kept  for  drift-wood,  and  if  any  fragments  be  seen  that  could  have  possibly  formed 
part  of  a  ship,  they  are  to  be  brought  to  this  station,  unless  of  too  great  size,  when  such  piece  as  is  best  calcu- 
lated for  identification  will  be  selected.  It  is  possible  that  in  such  manner  some  clue  to  the  yeannette  may 
be  obtained. 

While  it  is  desirable  that  Lieutenant  Beaumont's  cairns  be  visited,  you  are  to  make  no  considerable 
detour  for  such  purpose.  Map  and  data  showing  his  route  and  work  are  already  in  your  possession.  In 
case  such  cairns  are  visited  the  usual  instructions  will  be  followed. 

In  establishing  your  farthest  cairn  you  should  add  to  the  customary  record  as  full  and  concise  an 
account  of  your  journey  and,  if  possible,  a  skeleton  map  of  your  route  and  discoveries,  if  any.  Depots 
should  be  carefully  noted  and  secured;  each  member  of  the  party  should  be  shown  the  exact  location,  and 
attention  invited  to  neighboring  landmarks. 

Your  attention  is  invited  to  the  danger  of  pursuing  your  journey  beyond  such  point  as  your  provisions 
are  half  consumed,  and  to  remaining  or  venturing  to  any  distance  from  the  main  land  after  lanes  of  water 
have  once  shown  themselves. 

Instructions  to  any  returning  party  must  be  in  writing,  to  avoid  any  possible  error,  and  their  tenor  and 
importance  should  be  fully  understood  by  the  non-commissioned  officer  to  whom  given. 

The  date  of  your  departure  from  this  station  should  not  be  later  than  April  4. 

Wishing  you  the  fullest  success,  and,  above  all,  desiring  the  safe  return  of  your  party, 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
Pint  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Expedition. 

Second  Lieut.  J.  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O. 


Appendix  No.  52. — Supplementary  instructions  for  exploration  0/  north  coast  of  Greenland. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  22,  1882. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  herewith  transmit,  for  your  information,  list  of  stores  cached  north  of  depot  A, 
all  of  which  are  at  your  disposal  for  the  trip  toward  Cape  Britannia.  You  can  rely  on  depot  B  being  replen- 
ished during  your  absence.  I  also  inclose  memorandum  fixing  sledge  ration.  The  proportion  of  pemmican 
and  mixed  meats  may  be  changed  by  you  until  such  time  as  the  first  supporting  party  leaves  you,  after 
which  it  is  deemed  necessary,  in  the  interest  of  the  men's  health,  that  it  should  be  carefully  adhered  to : 

18  ounces  pemmican  (every  other  day);  18  ounces  bacon,  (once  in  10  days) ;  22  ounces  raw  beef  (one 
day  in  six);  18  ounces  corned  beef  (one  day  in  twelve);  2j  ounces  preserved  meat  (one  day  in  ten);  18 


i 


III? 

1;  iU 


184 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


ounces  sausage  (one  day  in  twenty);  u  ounces  hard  bread,  a  ounces  chocolate  (one  day  in  three);  "^ 
ounce  tea  (2  days  in  three);  2  ounces  sugar,  1  ounce  cranberries,  4  ounces  dried  beans,  i  ounce  desiccated 
potatoes,  I  ounce  lime-juice  (on  days  when  hme-juice  pemmican  is  not  eaten);  ^  ounce  salt;  %  ounce 
pepper;  yi  ounce  onion  powder;  5  and  4  ounces  (5  ounces  to  include  April  30;  after  that  date,  4  ounces) 
fuel  alcohol. 

I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greei.y, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry^  A,  S.  O-  and  Asssitant, 

Commanding  Expedition. 

Second  Lieut.  J.  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  0. 


1  ■' 


"     >     t 


«# 


I 


REPORTS  ON  EXPLORATION  OF  NORTH  COAST  OP  (IREENLANI). 


Appendix  No.  53. 

Lieutenant  fMckwood^s  letter  of  transmittaL 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnf.ix  Land,  yuly  31,  1882. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  sledge  journal  of  my  late  expedition  on  the  north  coast  of  Greenland 
and  a  chart  of  same,  showing  route,  &c.  To  this  I  have  added  an  abstract,  and  appended  various  data 
necessary  to  make  the  record  more  complete. 

The  journal  contains  many  details,  which  make  it  voluminous,  and  which  are,  perhaps,  superfluoc.s.  I 
inserted  them  mainly  because  they  exist  in  the  original.  I  regret  that,  notwithstanding  its  size,  the  journal, 
and  the  map  also,  are  incomplete  in  many  respects.  This  must  be  ascribed  mainly  to  the  Joss  of  my  com- 
pass, the  continuous  bad  weather,  &c. 

The  men  did  well,  and,  on  the  straits  particularly,  endured  many  severe  trials.  It  is  easier  to  state  than 
to  appreciate  what  it  is  to  drag  a  Hudson  Bay  sledge,  with  the  bottom  all  splintered  and  broken,  as  ours 
soon  became;  the  friction  is  enormous.  Sergeant  Brainard,  both  when  commanding  the  supporting  party, 
and  afterwards  while  serving  as  one  of  the  advance  party,  showed  on  all  occasions  such  good  judgment, 
energy,  willingness,  and  cheerfulness  to  promote  the  object  of  the  expedition  that  I  cannot  mention  him  too 
highly.  Of  Sergeants  Linn,  Ralston,  Jewell,  and  Elison,  Corporal  Salor,  and  Private  Frederick,  who  com- 
posed the  supporting  party,  after  leaving  the  Boat  Camp,  it  is  difficult  to  speak  individually.  I  believe 
that  each  one  did  his  best,  and  certainly  they  all  showed  a  spirit  of  determination  and  alacrity,  under 
difficulties,  which,  despite  the  breaking  down  of  the  sledges,  got  a  large  amount  of  rations  to  Cape  Bryant, 
and  would  have  enabled  the  dogsledge  to  start  from  a  more  distant  base  had  their  desire  to  go  farther  been 
the  only  requisite,  though  at  this  time  Sergeant  Linn  was  suffering  from  snow-blindness  and  Private  Frederick 
from  a  sprained  knee.  Sergeant  Jewell,  whenever  he  camped  with  me,  voluntarily  took  on  himself  the  whole 
labor  of  cooking,  and  also  assisted  Christiansen  and  myself  in  pitching  the  tent,  &c.,  which,  after  a  long 
march  at  the  drag-rope,  must  have  been  very  severe.  Sergeants  I,inn,  Ralston,  and  Elison  elected  to 
remain  at  the  Boat  Camp,  and  there  endured  twenty-five  days,  awaiting  my  return,  which,  in  such  u  place, 
was  worse,  in  many  respects,  than  actual  traveling.  Of  Privates  Connell,  Henry,  Biederbick,  and  Whisler,  I 
can  only  say  that  they  did  very  well  as  far  as  they  went,  and  were  unfortunate  in  being  able  to  go  no  farther. 
Private  Connell  showed  great  determination  in  going  on  aftek  he  had  become  actually  disabled. 

Frederick  Christiansen,  the  Eskimo,  I  mention  last,  but  he  should  be  among  the  first.  He  did  his 
work  well,  and  performed  everything  required  of  him  with  alacrity  and  the  stoicism  of  a  philosopher.  He 
proved  himself  very  reliable. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

.  J.  B.  LOCKWOOL), 

Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O. 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding, 

186 


r 


i 


I!' 


186 


THK  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Lieutenant  I^Kkxvood''  s  abstract  of  sledge  journey  on  the  north  coast  of  Greenland^  with 

general  remarks  on  the  same. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land. 

The  expedition  consisted  of  thirteen  men,  including  myself  and  the  driver  of  the  dog  sledge  (Frederick, 
Eskimo),  with  one  dog-sledge  and  four  Hudson  Bay  sledges.  It  was  originally  contemplated  that  two  of 
the  small  sledges  and  five  of  the  men,  with  myself,  should  constitute  an  advance  or  main  party,  the  others 
forming  two  sui)porting  parties,  but,  owing  to  circumstances,  this  arrangement  was  never  carried  out.  The 
route  selected  was  via  Cape  Beechey  and  a  point  near  the  Gap  opposite  to  Cape  Sumner  and  thence  along 
shore,  about  i  y^  miles,  to  the  Polaiis  Boat  Camp,  which  was  to  be  made  a  depot  or  base  of  supplies,  and  all 
rations  collected  there  before  proceeding  farther.  Nearly  all  the  necessary  rations  had  previously  been 
accumulated  at  the  two  depots  this  side  of  Cape  Beechey,  at  the  Gap  opposite,  and  on  the  ice  of  the  straits 
intermediate.  Beyond  the  Boat  Camp  the  expedition  was  to  cross  Newman  Bay  and  the  Brevoort 
Peninsula,  and,  arriving  at  the  northern  coast,  follow  it  along  to  Cape  Bryant,  whence  the  route  to  Cape 
Britannia  and  beyond,  was  left  to  circumstances. 

Sergeant  Brainard,  with  nine  of  the  party  and  the  four  small  sledges,  left  the  station  on  the  evening  of 
April  3.  I  followed  on  the  evening  following  with  the  di(g-team  and  Sergeant  Jewell.  As  a  general  rule, 
we  traveled  by  night  and  rested  during  the  day.  In  crossing  the  straits  (Robeson  Channel]  two  of  the  men 
broke  down  and  had  to  be  sent  back.  We  encountered  a  severe  storm  but  were  not  much  delayed  thereby. 
Sergeant  Brainard  and  party  reaching  the  Boat  Camp,  50  miles  from  the  station,  on  the  loth,  and  I,  with  the 
dog-sledge,  on  the  8th.  The  time  from  now  to  the  16th  was  occupied  in  accumulating  here  the  rations  at  the 
Gap  and  on  the  straits  [Robeson  Channel].  Shortly  after  arriving  two  more  of  the  men  broke  down  and  had 
to  be  sent  back.  We  were  prevented  from  doing  anything  for  a  day  or  two  by  a  continuation  of  the  storm 
referred  to.  ATter  this  a  runner  of  the  dog-sledge  being  broken  and  the  other  sledges  almost  worn  out,  I 
returned  with  dog-team  to  u.^  station  for  new  runners,  iVc,  leaving  on  the  13th  and  getting  back  on  the  isth. 
On  the  evening  of  the  16th  we  left  the  Polaris  Boat  Camp  with  the  following  organization  and  equipment. 

I.  One  dog-sledge,  Antoiiiettr,  and  team  of  eight  dogs,  Christiansen  and  myself.     "  Constant  weights," 
253  pounds  (including  weight  of  sledge),  with  load  of  five  sacks  of  dog  penimican ;  total,  753  pounds. 

II.  One  large  sledge  called  the  Nares  (improvised  at  Boat  Camp  from  old  sledge-runners  repaired 
and  pieces  of  plank),  drawn  by  Sergeants  Brainard,  Ralston,  and  Corporal  Salor;  estimated  amount  dragged 
by  each,  217  pounds. 

III.  One  Hudson  Bay  sledge, //<?//,  drawn  by  Sergeant  Jewell  and  Private  Frederick;  ijo  pounds 
dragged  by  eac  h. 

IV.  One  Hudson  Bay  sledge,  Hayes,  drawn  hy  Sergeants  Linn  and  Elison ;  amount  hauled  by  each, 
150  pounds. 

The  other  two  Hudson  Bay  sledges,  the  Beaumout  and  Kane,  were  abandoned  as  unserviceable.  Thc- 
dog-sledge  was  now  to  be  the  advance  sledge  and  the  others  to  act  in  its  support.  The  rations  taken  (all, 
at  the  start,  on  the  man-sledges)  were  estimated  at  300,  and  weighed  about  900  pounds. 

The  route  taken  across  the  Brevoort  Peninsula  was  up  a  narrow  ravine,  leading  us  in  a  northeast 
direction,  then  north  across  a  "divide"  or  plateau,  and  thence  through  another  ravine  running  northwest, 
which  brought  us  out  at  Repulse  Harbor,  a  litde  east  of  which,  on  the  coast,  we  all  camped  together,  April 
22.  Previous  to  this  I  generally  camped  independent  of  the  supporting  party,  which  was  under  Sergeant 
Brainard.  Afterwards,  till  Cape  Bryant  was  reached,  we  camped  together.  From  Repulse  Harbor  to  this  cape 
we  followed  the  coast  line,  only  leaving  it  to  travel  on  the  floe  for  a  few  miles  opposite  the  Black  Horn  Clifts. 
From  the  Boat  Camp  to  Stanton  Gorge  the  supporting  party  found  it  necessary  to  "double  up"  {I.e., 
divide  the  sledge  loads  and  draw  forward  half  at  a  time),  the  entire  distance.  I  found  it  necessary  all  the 
way  to  Cape  Bryant,  sometimes  going  five  times  over  the  same  road.  Near  Repulse  Harbor  a  runner  of 
the  dog-sledge  broke,  and  having  to  take  one  of  the  two  belonging  to  the  Nares,  it  v.as  necessary  to  abandon 
that  sledge,  which  was  done  after  getting  along  with  a  patched  runner  as  far  as  Drift  Point.  At  Stanton 
Gorge  I  found  the  forty  rations  of  Lieutenant  Beaumont,  and  took  them  on  as  far  as  Cape  Bryant,  which  we 
reached  April  27.  It  is  about  75  miles  from  the  Boat  Camp  by  the  route  traveled;  the  dog-sledge  made 
eight  intermediate  camps,  and  the  supporting  party  ten. 

At  Cape  Bryant  a  careful  inspection  of  the  two  remaining  man-sledges  satisfied  me  that  they  could 
proceed  no  farther.  However,  one  was  mended  suflicieitly  to  return.  Having  left  in  cache,  en  roitte^  but 
four  days'  rations,  a  considerable  quantity  still  remained  surplus.     Of  these  I  took  twenty-Ave  days,  or 


. 


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□:-pi|'"l""|i"WT^^l^t-f-l   fHiiii|iiniiu|iii>-|-;-|-4-)-4  |H"")".^?iipg|  ;  t-HF:|r.|imriipiiiiniiii|m^^:; 


46 


// 


IKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION 

—  1881-84. 

Commanded  by 
It.  A.  W.  Grcely,  U.  S.  A. 


y 


IT  OF  COAST  OP 


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GREENLAND 


/ 


/ 

rt  by  Lt.  J.  B.  Loekwood,  U.  S.  Arirnj, 
ley,  ,1/tril  ,1(1  to  Jiuw  Isf.  ISSJ. 
ifc  cf  firi'livii niirij  JDitrwy  in  Mnrch. 
May  is  itih'ii  from  Lt.  Beaumont's  Map. 
/ 

■  -- Outward  track. 

— Bcturn. 

I'relimiiuiry  journey. 

lOUNDINQS   IN    FATHOMS. 
HEIGHTS   IN    FEET. 


-fci-i-f*'' 


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P^i^'^d.o^^- 


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Is. 


C.Tl|iHin.iiin^»L 


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THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


187 


severtty-five  rations,  for  my  further  advance,  and  left  most  of  the  remainder  in  a  cairn  near  by.  The  equip- 
ment of  the  dog-sledge  now  consisted  of,  radons,  230  pounds;  dog-food,  300  pounds;  "constant  weights," 
176  pounds,  which,  with  weight  of  sledge,  80  pounds,  made  786  pounds,  or  98^  pounds  per  dog. 

On  the  afternoon  of  April  29  Sergeant  Linn,  with  the  supporting  party,  started  on  return,  and  shortly 
afterwards,  with  Sergeants  Brainard,  Frederick,  and  the  dog-team,  I  started  forward.  The  first  journey  1 
traveled  towards  Cape  May,  but  after  that  proceeded  as  direct  as  possible  for  Cape  Britannia,  over  the  ice 
of  the  Polar  Sea.  Cape  Britannia  was  reached  May  5,  after  six  journeys,  the  last  a  very  short  one.  The  first 
day's  (or  rather  night's)  journey  was  towards  Cape  May,  but  after  that  I  proceeded  as  direct  as  possible  towards 
Cape  Britannia,  passing  the  former  cape  about  five  miles  from  shore.  It  was  on'y  the  first  day  or  night  that 
we  got  along  without  "doubling  up,"  excepting  a  very  few  miles.  En  route  when  opposite  and  when  on  a 
line  with  Beaumont  Island  and  Cape  May,  we  crossed  a  remarkable  tide-crack  (?)  and  let  down  the  deep-sea 
lead  840  feet  [256'"]  without  finding  bottom.     In  drawing  it  up  the  line  parted  and  the  lead,  &c.,  was  lost. 

From  the  top  of  the  mountain,  2,050  feet  [625"'],  which  forms  Cape  Britannia,  I  got  a  good  view  all 
around.  Towards  the  northeast  lay  a  succession  of  headlands  and  inlets  as  far  as  I  could  see — some  15  or 
20  miles — and  this  was  the  character  of  the  coast  beyond  as  far  as  I  got.  The  tide-crack  extended  from 
Beaumont  Island  from  one  cape  to  another  the  whole  distance.  I  estimate  Cape  Britannia  as  60  miles 
from  Cape  Bryant.  We  left  Britannia  after  only  the  usual  delay  in  camp  and  proceeded,  without  any  more 
doubling  up,  in  a  general  northeast  direction  till  May  13,  when,  the  rations  being  exhausted,  I  reached  my 
farthest  at  the  sixth  camp  95  miles  beyond  Cape  Britannia.  En  route  we  remained  sixty-two  hours  at 
Shoe  [Mary  Murray]  Island,  detained  by  a  storm. 

From  the  top  of  the  height  [Lockwood  Island],  just  back  of  the  headland  [Cape  Christiansen]  (the 
farthest  reached),  I  could  see  to  the  northeast  two  more  ])rojecting  points  [Capes  Kane  and  Washington],  with 
intervening  fiords  [Conger  Inlet  and  Hunt  Fiord],  the  farthest  [Cape  Washington]  perhaps  15  miles  distant. 
No  land  could  be  seen  to  the  north — nothing  but  the  vast  expanse  of  the  Polar  Sea.  To  the  south  and  east 
lay  a  maze  of  snow-covered  mountain  peaks. 

After  a  delay  till  the  isth  [May,  1882]  in  taking  observations,  collecting  specimens  of  rocks  and 
vegetation,  &c.,  we  started  back.  Cape  Britannia  was  reached  (May  20)  in  five  marches  and  Cape  Bryant 
(May  24)  in  four  more,  without  particular  event.  At  the  latter  place  I  attempted  to  get  some  observations 
on  the  tide,  but  without  success.  On  reaching  Repulse  Harbor  I  continued  along  the  coast  till  I  reached 
the  Gap  Valley  of  the  English  by  which  I  crossed  the  Brevoort  Peninsula  and  reached  the  Polaris  Boat 
Camp  on  the  29th  instant,  the  fourth  camp  from  Cape  Bryant  on  return.  Here  Sergeants  Linn,  Ralston  and 
Elison  were  awaiting  my  return,  having  arrived  on  the  5th  May.  The  others,  by  my  direction,  had  returned 
to  Fort  Conger  after  a  day's  rest.  The  party  which  remained  had  (while  asleep)  been  visited  by  two  bears 
and  experienced  several  storms,  but  otherwise  the  time  had  been  uneventful.  We  started  the  same  day  for 
the  station,  which  we  readied  (June  i)  in  three  marches. 

The  weather  after  leaving  the  station  was  often  stormy  and  bad  until  about  the  middle  of  the  month; 
during  this  time  the  coldest  was  experienced  (April  6)  —  48.8  [—  44.9°  C.].  After  leaving  the  Polaris  Boat 
Camp  it  was  alternately  good  and  bad  until  Cape  Stanton  was  reached,  after  which  until  beyond  Cape 
Britannia  we  had  fine  weather.  But  then  it  commenced  to  blow  and  snow,  and  so  continued,  with  few 
exceptions,  until  Britannia  was  reached  on  return.  Thence  to  Bryant  it  was  mild  and  foggy,  and  thence  to 
Boat  Camp  generally  calm  and  clear.     In  crossing  the  straits  [Robeson  Channel]  again  it  v :  s  very  bad. 


1882. 


Thermometer 

Numl)cr 

of  obser- 

Mean temj 

vations. 

Fahr. 

32 

~'S-77 

39 

-  7-36 

18 

1-  9-9' 

32 

-I-I2.34 

I'ort  Conger  to  Boat  Camp,  April  3  to  16 

Hoat  Camp  to  Cape  Bryant,  Ajiril  16  to  29 

Cape  ISryant  to  Cajie  Britannia,  April  29  to  May  5 
Cape  Britannia  to  Farthest,  May  5  to  15. 


These  means  are  given  for  what  they  are  worth.  The  observations  were  taken  every  day  but  at  very 
irregular  hours,  most  of  them  when  in  cam[).  No  observations  w<'re  taken  on  return,  the  thermometer  being 
left  in  cairn  at  Farthest  and  the  barometer  having  been  broken. 


Barometer. 

Numlier 

ature. 

of  obser- 
vations. 

Mean  height. 

C. 

Infltts. 

Htm.      1 

-26.6 

21 

29.  74 

755-  38  1 

21.  9 

25 

29.  09 

73«-  S7  ! 

12.3 

>9 

29-  43 

747- 5 «  i 

-10. 9 

23 

29-39 

746. 49 

-  - 



HI 


•ii 


I 


I'lii 


!l! 


188 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  coast  line  near  the  Boat  Camp,  both  on  the  straits  and  the  shores  of  Newman  Bay,  consist*  of  a 
series  of  high,  precipitous  chfTs.  Between  Cape  Sumner  and  Boat  Camp  was  a  steep  snow-slope  which  I  found 
necessary  to  follow  on  account  of  the  very  rough  ice  outside.  On  the  north  side  of  the  bay  the  shore  slopes 
at  a  varying  angle  to  the  plateau  or  water-shed  above,  the  highest  elevation  of  which  is  much  nearer  the 
bay  than  it  is  to  the  coast  to  the  north,  thus  making  the  streams  on  the  north  side  much  longer  than  those 
on  the  south.  On  the  seacoast  a  line  of  cliffs  extends  fro'..  Gap  Valley  to  Repulse  Harbor,  but  beyond 
they  lie  well  back  from  the  coast  or  rather  merge  into  a  range  of  hills,  leaving  a  low,  sloping  shore  which 
extends  to  the  snow-slopes  near  Drift  Point  and  the  Black  Horn  Cliffs  beyond.  From  the  last-named  cliffs 
the  coast  line  extends  along  the  base  of  a  series  of  hills  and  mountains  which  at  Frankfield  Bay  again  run 
off  inland  and  leave,  thence  to  Cape  Bryant,  another  'ow,  shelving  shore.  Beyond  Cape  Bryant  to  Cape 
Britannia  and  beyond,  as  far  as  I  traveled,  the  coast  line,  if  such  it  may  be  termed,  presents  a  great  similarity 
of  appearance,  a  series  of  high,  rocky,  and  precipitous  promontories,  probably  the  north  projections  pf 
islands  in  many  cases  with  intervening  inlets.  It  was  not  till  near  my  farthest  that  I  met  any  shore  lying  in 
the  general  direction  of  the  line  of  travel,  our  route  almost  invariably  being  from  one  point  to  another  across 
the  openings  of  these  inlets.  It  was  very  seldom  that  I  could  say  whether  these  inlets  were  bays  or  chan- 
nels connecting  with  larger  bodies  of  water  to  the  south.  There  was  no  visible  land  at  the  heads  of  several 
of  them.  They  were  very  much  like  immense  canals,  and  gave  tlie  whole  coast  the  appearance  of  the 
Greenland  coast  between  Upernivik  and  Proven,  and  Disco.  From  the  top  of  Cape  Britannia  I  saw  one 
that  extended  off  towards  the  east  and  seemed  to  make  islands  of  all  tlie  projecting  promontories  to  its 
north. 

There  was  every  appearance  of  a  fiord  on  the  south  side  of  Britannia,  thus  making  that  land  an  island; 
this  was  noticeable  from  either  side  of  Britannia.  "  Stephenson  Island,"  also,  is  undoubtedly  an  island,  and 
the  fiords  on  each  side  of  my  farthest  [Lockwood  Island]  seeme<l  to  connect  a  few  miles  to  the  south,  thus 
making  that  land  an  island  also.  Owing  to  continual  bad  weather  my  view  of  the  interior  was  mainly  con- 
fined to  what  I  saw  from  the  two  elevations  ascended  ;  and,  owing  to  their  comparative  lowness,  the  maze 
of  mountain  peaks  with  their  universal  covering  of  snow  merging  and  overlapping  one  another  made  it  very 
difficult  to  distinguish  the  topography  at  all.  The  interior  land  seemed  very  high,  and  on  this  account  the 
farthest  that  I  couhl  see  could  not  have  been  very  many  miles  removed.  I  could  see  [from  Britannia  and 
Lock  woo. 1  Island)  no  glaciers  that  I  recognized  as  such,  though  from  the  floe  while  traveling  I  saw  a  very 
large  one,  and  one  or  two  quite  small.  From  my  farthest  I  saw  mountains  to  the  east,  perhaps  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  distant,  and  a  high,  mountainous  country  doubtless  exists  all  along  this  coast  for  some  distance 
to  the  south,  the  shore  lines  of  the  fiords  invariably  being  at  the  base  of  steep  cliffs  and  mountains.  No 
land  was  ever  seen  to  the  north.    There  was  a  very  noticeable  abundance  of  snow  everywhere. 

The  most  singular  phenomenon  along  this  coast  was  the  tide-crack,  extending  from  headland  to  head- 
land as  far  as  I  got.  I  could  only  understand  it  on  the  supposition  that  the  outside  polar  pack  had  con- 
stantly more  or  less  motion.  At  North  Cape  [Cape  Frederick]  and  bejoiid  we  heard  alow,  grinding  sound, 
as  of  moving  ice,  which  tended  to  confirm  that  impression.  This  "  crack  " — that  is,  the  space  between  the 
solid  floes  on  each  side — was  sometimes  upwards  of  a  hundred  yards  [91"']  wide,  the  intervening  space  being 
composed  of  young  ice  and  lanes  and  pools  of  water.  It  generally  inclined  in  a  curve  to  the  south  between  the 
different  promontories,  and  its  whole  course  was  marked  by  a  wall  of  hummocky  ice,  pressed  up  in  the  utmost 
confusion,  sometimes  on  one  side,  sometimes  on  both.  At  the  several  capes  this  pressure  was  especially 
noticeable,  and  along  short  extents  of  coast  line  which  lay  parallel  to  the  general  direction  of  the  crack. 

As  with  one  exception  we  traveled  inside  of  the  crack,  little  was  seen  of  the  main  polar  pack  beyond, 
except  iit  long  intervals.  It  seemed  a  vast  expanse  of  floes,  crossed  at  many  angles  with  many  ridges  of  hum- 
mocks, with  masses  of  rubble-ice  here  and  there.  When  we  crossed  the  crack  we  traveled  on  ice  but  lately 
formed  apparently,  and  made  good  progress,  except  when  masses  of  rubble-ice  were  encountered;  but  outside, 
whenever  noticed,  the  main  pack  looked  very  rough.    Traveling  over  it  would  no  doubt  be  slow  and  difticult. 

To  the  south  of  the  crack,  from  shore  to  shore  and  up  the  fiords,  as  far  as  could  be  seen,  the  ice 
was  covered  with  a  smooth,  level  exoanse  of  snow,  seldom  broken  by  even  a  solitary  hummock.  In  the 
neighborhood  of  the  tide-crack,  however,  the  surface  was  often  more  or  less  undulating,  but  still  presented 
the  appearance  of  great  age,  excepting  across  some  of  the  inlets  beyond  Distant  Cape,  where  we  trav- 
eled over  more  or  less  blue-top  floes.  At  North  Cape  [Frederick],  extending  out  some  distance  from 
shore,  was  a  good  deal  of  smooth,  level  ice,  with  very  little  or  no  snow  on  it — last  year's  ice.  This  was 
also  met  with  just  beyond  Hummock  Cape  and  near  the  coast  west  of  Shoe  [Mary  Murray]  Island.     My 


Tlic  I.aily  I'ranklin  Hay  Kxpedition,  \'iil.  I. 


Plate 


CM'F.  Hkitannia. 


TF^'^i^mmrnmrn'^mm: 


\li  IMKIA    l.M.l.r   lKi)M    M-.Ak   ("aI'K    liKIIANMA. 

[\;irc.s  I.aiul  to  left  and  Steplienson  IsUui'l  to  rij;lit.] 


liKAlMciM     Nl.AMl    IKOM    NIAK    CaI'K    BKHANNIA. 


STKI'UKNSDN    1^1. ami    IKOM    C'aIK    liKII\NMA. 


liKAUMONT  Island  i  hum  Cai'f.  liiuiANNiA. 


The  l.ailv  I'ranklin  Hnv  l'.x|iL'iMti.in.  Vol.  I. 


Ki.isdN  Island, 


\  u.u    l.iioMNc,  iNio  c'mii-  Im.i  r. 


I  ,.; 


CaI'I.  ALIXAMirU   Ra.m^w. 
[l-'roiM  |cui-ll  Iiilut.  lieaiin^  KV.  ] 


Plate  II. 


I  ' 


I 


SlU)K  [Mary  Mi'Rray]  Island. 


l'"ARTiii;sr  ToiNT  iiivoND  [tu  tiil  Kast]  Sikh:  [Mauy  Mtruav]  Islanu, 


jij  M 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


189 


course  when  not  on  the  ice  of  the  inlets  was  on  the  steep  snow-slopes  and  ice-foot  rouml  the  capes.  These 
"ice-foots"  were  almost  always  covered  with  snow,  more  or  less  deep,  lietween  Dome  Cape  [Cape  Wij- 
kanderj  and  Shoe  [Mary  Murray]  Island,  however,  were  often  many  hundred  yards  of  clear  ice  between  the 
foot  of  the  clitTs  and  the  wall  of  hummocky  ice  lining  the  coast.  The  reason  of  this  difference  was  not  ap- 
parent. The  ice-foot  of  the  Grinnell  shore  l)elow  Cape  Heechey,  which  remained  clear  late  in  the  fall,  and 
was  so  found  early  in  the  s])ring,  had  considerable  snow  on  it  in  April.  The  snow  on  these  fiords  was  quite 
frequently  soft  and  deep,  on  some  particularly  so.  It  was  of  this  character  from  Cape  Uryant  nearly  to 
Britannia,  and  generally  so  beyond  as  far  as  Distant  Cape.  Afterwards,  till  I  had  nearly  reached  my 
farthest,  it  was  moderately  firm,  but  in  the  fiord  beyond  Hummock  Cape  it  was  extremely  soft  and  deep. 
It  was  thus  on  almost  all  the  snow-slopes. 

Mv  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Bryant  were  not  successful,  but  a  deflection  of  the  line  to  the  east,  very 
frequently  noticed  during  the  twelve  hours  of  my  observations,  seemed  to  indicate  a  current  (perhaps  a  tide) 
in  that  direction.  No  such  deflection  was  noticed  at  the  crack  south  of  Beaumont  Island,  but  this  crack 
was  hardly  more  than  two  fcet  [.6"'J  wide  at  this  i)articular  point.  On  the  shores  of  Cape  Britannia  Island, 
and  the  whole  distance  beyond,  the  appearance  of  the  ice  seemed  to  indicate  a  very  small  vertical  motion 
(rise  and  fall)  of  the  tide.  The  chasm  between  the  fast  ice  on  shore  and  the  floating  ice  adjoining  and  the 
debris  formed  by  the  two  edges  working  pgainst  each  other,  so  noticeable  in  the  straits  [Robeson  Channel], 
was  generally  entirely  wanting.  Sometimes  we  passed  from  the  floe  to  the  ice-foot  or  snow-slope  without 
any  change  whatever  of  the  surface ;  sometimes  a  few  small  cracks  were  seen,  as  though  the  ice  worked  on 
a  hinge,  as  it  were.  A  bear  track  at  Black  Cape,  and  a  great  many  fox,  hare,  and  lemming  tracks  were 
noticed.  Traces  of  musk-ox  were  found  at  Cape  Britannia,  anci  a  ptarmigan  shot.  Beyond  this  the  only 
birds  or  animals  seen  or  obtained  were  a  hare  and  some  ptarmigan  at  Rabbit  Point  [Cape  BenetJ,  a  lemming 
at  Shoe  [Mary  Murray]  Island,  and  another  just  beyond,  and  some  snow-birds  at  the  Farthest  [Lockwood 
Island]. 

The  only  drilt-wood  found  was  near  Repulse  Harbor.  But  little  vegetation  was  seen,  on  account  oi 
the  snow,  &c.  The  rocks  were  (piite  the  same  in  general  appearance  and  formation  as  what  is  observed  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  station.  The  cliff  forming  the  farthest  headland  [Cape  Christiansen]  reached  con- 
sisted of  a  very  friable  slate,  of  several  colors  or  shades,  and  also  what  I  took  for  "  indurated  clay,"  a  very 
pretty  rock,  of  various  shades  of  brown,  red,  and  yellow.  Specimens  of  the  rocks  and  vegetation  from  here 
[Lockwood  Island]  and  elsewhere  have  been  submitted. 

The  health  of  the  party  remained  good.     A  few  cases  of  frost-bite  and  snow-blindness  (not  serious) 
were  the  only  exceptions  after  leaving  the  Boat  Camp. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  B.  Lockwood, 
Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  liifantty,  A.  S,  O. 


Lieutenant  Lockwood''  s  Journal  of  Sledge  Expedition  on  north  coast  of  Greenland  {April  ^  to 

June  /,  1882). 

First  march,  Station  to  Snow  House,  Depot  B. 

April  4. — At  8.45  p.  m.  left  Fort  Conger  with  Sergeant  Jewell,  Christiansen  (Eskimo),  dog-sledge 
Antoinette,  and  eight  dogs,  equipped,  and  load  weighing  about  £00  pounds.  At  10.13  P-  ro-  reached  depot 
A ;  took  on  two  sacks  of  dog  pemmican ;  three  other  sacks  added  to  load  at  a  cache  about  one-half  mile  west. 
Took  also  from  depot  eight  cans  corned  beef  and  oneof  beans,  making  quite  a  heavy  load,  which  I  found  it 
necessary  to  transfer  by  hand  over  a  crack  on  reaching  St.  Patrick  Bay. 

April  5. — At  2.40  a.  m.  reached  snow  house  (depot  B),  where  I  found  Sergeant  Brainard  and  the  main 
party,  also  Sergeant  Rice  and  Jens  (the  Eskimo),  on  their  way  to  rejoin  Doctor  Pavy.  Just  before  reaching 
there,  I  saw  on  the  south  side  of  the  first  bay  or  indentation  of  the  coast  to  the  south,  seated  on  a  floe-berg, 
what  I  took  for  an  eagle  or  owl — a  large,  white  bird ;  it  flew  away  to  the  south  before  we  could  get  within 
range.  At  depot  B  all  were  asleep.  They  filled  up  the  snow  house  and  snow-burrow;  so  Sergeant  Jewell 
and  I  slept  in  the  store  tent  and  C;hristiansen  in  the  tunnel  or  entrance  to  snow-house. 

Time  en  route,  5  hours  55  minutes;  time  actually  traveling  forward  the  first  time,  all  delays  deducted, 
5  hours  30  minutes;  distance  traveled,  18  miles;  distance , made  good,  i8  miles. 


! 


190 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Second  march,  Snow-housk  to  Tent  on  Straits  [Roheson  ChanneiJ. 


Some  hours  before  sMrtinn  were  ot(ni|)ic(l  in  cooking  breakfast  on  the  little  stove  for  the  whole  party 
and  in  getting  ready  rations,  iVe.  (enumerated  elsewhere),  which  were  added  to  load  from  this  place — the 
loads  of  the  several  sledges  being  rearranged  before  starting.  At  8.50  p.  m.  Sergeant  Jewell,  Christiansen,  and 
1  got  off.  Sergeant  Itrainard,  with  the  Hudson  Hay  sledges,  left  about  ten  minutes  earlier.  The  dog-sledge, 
Antoimitf,  very  heavily  loaded ;  weight  dragged,  about  800  pounds.  Kach  man  with  the  Hudson  Hay  sledges 
dragged  about  1 16  pounds.  The  ice-foot  had  more  or  less  snow  on  it,  and  hence  the  traveling  along  here  not 
so  good  as  heretofore.  I  overtook  the  other  sledges  soon  after  starting  and  |)as.sed  ahead.  At  10.52  p.  m. 
reached  Cape  Hcechey;  the  other  sledges  some  distanie  back.  Here  it  was  necessary  to  double  up 
(take  in  two  loads)  through  the  rubble-ice  extending  out  about  one-<iuarter  mile  from  shore.  After  this  we 
traveled  over  old  tloe-ice,  /.  c,  ice  with  an  undulating  surface  covered  with  deep  snow. 

April  (t. — At  2.25  a.  m.  arrived  at  tent  on  Robeson  Channel  (about  4^  miles  from  shore).  Delayed  a 
few  minutes  ancl  then  went  back  part  of  the  w.iy  to  shore  and  assisted  the  last  of  the  Hudson  Bay  sledges  to 
the  tent,  having  decided  to  camp  there.  This  occupied  a  little  more  than  an  hour;  it  was  rendered  necessary 
by  Whisler's  break;  g  down  and  Connell  and  Hierderbick  being  unable  to  drag  the  sledge  without  help.  It 
was  very  cold  on  rtachin^g  c.imp,  the  thermometer  registering  45°  below  zero  [—42.8°  C.|.  Sergeant  Jewell, 
Christiansen,  and  I  took  possession  ol  the  wall  tent  already  pitched  here.  The  others  pitched  their  own  tents 
two  in  number. 

Time  en  route  (dog-sledge),  6  hours  and  45  minutes ;  actual  time  traveling  forward,  less  delays,  5 
hours;  distance  traveled,  13  miles;  distance  made  good,  9^  miles. 

Third  march.  Tent  on  Straits  to  Floe  southwest  of  the  Gap. 

While  Sergeant  Jewell  was  trying  to  cook  breakfast  on  our  little  2-man  lamp  I  went  to  the  tents  of  the 
others.  I  found  that  Private  Connell  had  his  foot  badly  frost-bitten  on  the  last  inarch  and  that  Private 
Hetiry  was  suffering  from  rheumatism;  the  latter  thought  he  would  have  to  be  hauled  back  if  he  went  any 
farther,  so  I  directed  him  to  return  to  the  station,  and  he  left  shortly  before  the  others  proceeded  forward. 
Private  Connell  thought  he  was  able  to  go  on — was  willing  and  anxious  to  try,  at  any  rate. 

At  10.10  p.  m.  started  with  dog-sledge,  about  i^  hours  after  the  others  ;  this  was  occasioned  by  the 
lamp  being  unable  to  bring  the  water  to  a  boil.  It  was  very  cold  at  this  camp,  the  minimum  reaching  —47.50 
[  —  44.2°  C.J.  About  1^  miles  from  camp  I  overtook  Private  Frederick  dragging  a  sledge  alone,  and  a 
little  farther  on,  the  others,  who  had  halted  for  a  rest.  Connell  had  fallen  out  of  the  drag-rope,  he  being 
hardly  able  to  get  along  at  all.  He  reluctantly  agreed  to  going  back.  I  detached  Sergeant  Jewell  from 
service  with  the  dog-sledge,  and  from  here  on  he  worked  with  the  others.  Leaving  the  main  party  to  proceed 
I  left  my  load  and  took  Private  Connell  to  Cape  Heechey,  going  along  myself  as  far  as  the  tent  on  the 
straits,  where  I  awaited  the  return  of  the  sledge.  Connell  thought  he  could  get  by  himself  from  Cape 
Beechey.  On  the  dog-sledge  rejoining  nie  1  proceeded  after  the  others,  and  picking  up  the  load  where  left, 
continued  on.  Progress  with  such  a  load,  however,  involved  so  many  delays  and  so  much  work,  on  account, 
of  the  heavy  snow,  that  some  time  after  this  I  threw  off  about  half. 

April  7. — At  5.30  a.  m.  arrived  at  a  spot  just  southwest  of  the  Gap,  where  I  found  the  main  party 
already  in  camp.  Pitched  tent,  &c.,  while  Christiansen  went  back  for  the  rest  of  the  load.  He  returned  in 
the  course  of  an  hour.    We  got  supper  in  the  6-man  tent. 

Advanced  8  miles;  corresponding  time,  about  5  hours;  total  traveled,  24  miles;  corresponding  time,  8 
hours  and  30  minutes.     See  note  to  tabulated  statement  appended. 

Fourth  march.  Floe  southwest  of  Gap  to  \rolaris\  Boat  Camp,  nearly. 

At  8.45  p.  m.  left  camp  w  ith  dog-sledge  and  half-load,  the  main  party  preparing  to  move.  Traveled  for 
some  time  over  level  floes  crossed  by  ranges  of  hummocky  ice — taking  a  direction  for  Cape  Sumner,  but  after 
some  hours'  traveling,  a  storm  of  wind  and  snow,  which  had  set  in  some  time  before,  made  everything  so 
obscure  that  I  suddenly  found  the  sledge  "stalled"  in  a  mass  of  rubble-icc  and  deep  snow.  It  blew  a  gale 
from  the  southwest.  After  several  ineffectual  efforts  things  looked  so  discouraging  that  I  began  to  think  of 
taking  refuge  in  a  snow-burrow — unable  to  pick  out  a  route  on  account  of  the  driving  snow.  However, 
some  time  after  this  I  succeeded  in  finding  a  floe  and  getting  the  sledge  to  it,  with  Christiansen's  willing  aid. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  DAY  EXPEDITION. 


191 


April?!, — At  2.10  .1.  tn.  iirrivcil  at  Cape  Sumner,  and,  getting  through  tlic  rougli  ico  near  shore,  gained 
the  snow-slo|)i'  l)etween  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  and  the  hne  of  iniiuense  bergs  ami  huninicx  ks  wiiith  line  the 
coast.  Here,  instead  of  the  protection  I  had  anticipated  from  the  Muffs,  we  eniountereil  a  series  of  blasts 
and  wliirlwinds  of  snow,  disagreeable  in  tlie  extreme,  and  making  it  difficult  to  keep  the  sledge  from  sliding 
sideways  into  the  pits,  Inrmed  by  the  snow,  adjoining  every  mass  of  ice. 

At  3.50  a.  m.  rea(  hcd  an  immense  snow-drift,  aliout  one-half  mile  from  Boat  Camp,  which  extends  at  a 
stce|)  angle  from  the  luj)  to  the  bottom  of  the  ( liff;  it  was  not  an  easy  place  to  pass.  Christiansen  and  I  left 
sledge  and  went  ahead  to  rcconnoiter.  We  could  hardly  keep  our  feet.  We  returned,  and  I  thought  it  best  to 
camp  here;  so  in  the  course  of  two  hours  we  had  dug  a  small  hole  in  the  snowbank  and  crawled  inside, 
and,  having  got  everything  necessary  in,  stopped  up  the  entrance.  8.10  a.  m.,su])per  finished.  (^)uite  dark  in 
here,  having  no  candles.  We  had  no  light  excejjt  from  some  cracks  which  closed  and  opened  continuously, 
through  some  unknown  agency,  occasionally  new  cracks  forming.  This  movement  was  acconipanied  by  a 
noise  which  was  rather  alarming  until  I  found  that  our  abode  did  not  decrease  in  size  thereby. 

Advanced  \2]A  miles;  time,  less  delays,  6  hours;  traveled,  12^  miles;  time,  including  delays,  7 
hours  and  5  minutes. 

ARKIVKO    Al     \ri>lans\    ItOAT   CA.MI'. 


April  ty — How  long,  exactly,  we  remained  at  this  place  I  don't  know;  I  was  glad  to  leave  even  before 
the  storm  had  ceased.  'J'he  entrance  had  become  entirely  snowed  up.  Cutting  our  way  out,  vv;  found  it 
still  snowing  anil  blowing,  but  not  so  hard.  The  dogs  were  almost  concealed  from  view  by  the  snow  which 
had  drifted  op.  them. 

At  about  I  p.  m.  arrived  at  Boat  Cam]),  and,  it  seeming  im])ossible  for  a  tent  long  to  stand,  we  set  to 
work  and  dug  another  snow-burrow  at  the  conjunction  of  the  coast-line  of  cliffs  and  the  ravine.  It  was 
imi)racticable  to  do  anything  more. 

.\t  8.10  p.  m.  left  snow-burrow  to  proceeil  down  the  straits  [Robeson  Channel]  for  remainder  of  load, 
and  also  to  see  what  had  become  of  the  main  party,  for  whom  I  began  to  feel  some  uneasiness.  A  cold 
wind  was  blowing  from  the  southwest. 

At  n.io  p.  m.  met  the  main  [larty  en  route  to  Boat  Camp;  all  well.  They  hail  encountered  so  much 
difficulty  in  their  march,  shortly  after  my  departure,  Uiat  they  had  taken  refuge  behintl  a  large  tloe-berg  on 
the  straits. 

April  10. — At  12. 10  a.  m.  reached  remainder  of  load  (400  pounds  jiemmican,  dog-food),  anil  started 
back;  at  9.10a.  m.  arrived  again  at  Boat  Camp,  where  I  found  the  main  party  at  sup|)er.  .  Their  two  tents 
were  [titched  at  the  foot  of  the  snow-drift,  but  the  violent  gusts  of  wind  threatened  every  few  minutes  to 
blow  them  down.  The  wind  here  blows  in  sudden  gusts,  first  from  one  direction,  then  from  another,  swee[)- 
ing  the  stony  ground  completely  bare,  except  at  the  snow-drift  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs. 

Traveled  26  miles;  time,  13  hours. 

April  II. — At  1.10  a.  m.  got  up,  to  find  ourselves  snowed  in  and  the  air  so  close  that  a  match  was 
lighted  with  difficulty.  After  getting  something  to  eat  we  cut  a  hole  through  the  top  or  roof  of  our  abode,  and 
got  out ;  found  the  two  tents  had  disappeared,  and  their  inmates  buried  in  two  small  snow-burrows.  Spent 
the  greater  i)art  of  the  forenoon  in  closing  uj)  the  top  of  my  abode,  enlarging  it,  and  constructing  a  tunnel. 

At  I  p.  m.  went  to  bed  again,  the  weather  preventing  us  from  doing  anything  else. 

At  9  p.  m.  got  up.  Found  that  the  main  party  had  had  an  extremely  uncomfortable  rest,  and  were  all 
suffering  from  bad  air,  i"v:c.,  owing  to  the  drifting  snow.  I'rivate  Bierderbick  was  suffering  from  continence 
of  urine,  and  Whisler  from  a  pain  in  the  lungs  attended  with  the  spitting  of  blood.  I  thought  it  best  to 
send  them  back,  and  they  started  about  midnight  direct  for  Cape  Beechey. 

\Polaris\  boat  camp  to  iiai',  ktc,  and  hack. 

At  1 1.55  p.  m.  Sergeant  Brainard,  and  those  remaining,  started,  with  three  Hudson  Hay  sledges,  for  the 
Gap,  to  help  bring  up  rations  at  that  place. 

April  12. — At  2  a.  m.  I  left  with  Christiansen  and  dog-team  for  same  place  ami  purpose.  The  traveling 
between  Cape  Sumner  and  the  (lap,  about  7  miles  below,  is  the  best  met  with  on  the  straits.  A  smooth,  level 
floe  of  clear  ice  extends  all  along  except  at  a  place  about  i>4  miles  below  the  cape,  where  it  is  interrupted 
by  several  hundred  yards  of  rough  rubble-ice,  difficult  to  get  through.     This  route  was  not  fully  discovered 


192 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


till  this  occasion.  I  overtook  the  main  party  about  two  miles  from  the  Gap  at  4. 1  o  a.  m.,  about ;  their  sledges 
had  become  much  split  and  worn  in  the  rough  ice  of  the  straits,  and  they  found  it  fatiguing  even  pulling 
them  empty.    I  put  their  sledges  on  the  dog-sledge  .mil  went  on  in  advance. 

At  4.45  a.  m.  reached  the  Gap.  Found  the  little  Knglish  boat  on  the  ice-foot  and  very  badly  broken 
up,  as  reported.  Took  the  boat  to  land  and  hung  her  on  the  bowlder  which  marks  the  jilace  where  the 
provisions  were  left.  A  good  meal  was  tlien  cooked  for  every  one  in  the  snow-burrow  adjoining,  the  lamps 
having  been  brought  along  for  this  purpose.  In  the  mean  time  I  sent  Sergeant  Jewell  with  dog-team, 
accompanied  by  Christiansen,  of  course,  out  on  the  straits  [Robeson  Channel]  to  get  a  few  articles  that  had 
been  left  by  the  former  about  a  mile  .'^'m  shore.  At  7.41;  a.  m.,  leaving  the  rest  to  take  to  Moat  Camp  all  they 
could  haul,  enumerated  elsewhere,  I  started  with  dog-icam  for  cache  made  by  Sergeant  Jewell  (about  325 
pounds)  in  March,  1882,  five  miles  or  more  from  shore,  towards  Cape  hiechey. 

At  9.32  a.  m.  reached  cache.  At  12  noon  got  back  again  to  the  (iap,  and  was  delayed  thirty  minutes  in 
adding  to  load  everything  that  had  been  left.  Found  it  an  enormous  load,  and  after  |)roceeding,  on  return 
to  Boat  Camp,  about  a  mile,  1  dropped  off  liie  Greenland  bag  and  a  large  box  of  canned  meats,  &c. 

At  6.10  J),  m.  reached  Boat  Canij);  dogs  very  much  exhausted.  Found  that  the  others  had  got  b^ck 
about  I  '4  hours  before  me. 

At  10.10  p.  m.  went  to  bed.  The  lamj)  is  very  small,  and  being  without  the  funnel  arrangement  the 
meat  and  tea  have  to  be  -'■'f^ki'd  sejjarately  ;  hence,  the  long  time  occupied  on  this  occasion,  .is  well  as  before 
and  afterwards,  until  I  used  one  of  tlie  larger  lamps. 

Traveled  25  miles;  time,  16  hours  and  10  minutes. 

April  13. — .At  8.30  a.  m.,  about,  was  up  and  out.  Jewell  slept  in  the  snow-burrow  with  Christiansen  and 
myself  last  night  and  ate  with  us,  turning  over  again  to  Christiansen  his  single  dog-skin  bag,  and  occupying 
the  two-man  buffalo- bag  with  na-.  This  l:e  continued  to  do  thereafter,  whenever  we  camped  together,  till  C'ape 
Bryant  was  reached.  I  found  that  the  Hudson  Bay  sledges  were  very  much  worn  and  split;  one  almost 
entirely  useless  and  another  almost  as  bad.  One  runner  of  the  dog-sledge  became  split  across  the  horn 
some  days  ])revious,  .ind,  though  lately  mended  by  Sergeant  Klison,  as  well  as  possible,  I  regarded  it  best, 
everything  considered,  to  return  to  station  for  a  new  runner,  iVc.  The  forenoon  was  occupiijd  in  mending 
sledges,  digging  out  whale-boat*  (wiiich  was  embanked  in  snow)  and  placing  her  on  her  keel,  j)roperly  secured 
with  stoiu's.  I  left  directions  to  iiave  all  extra  rations  pKaced  therein  and  the  articles  left  on  the  ice  near 
the  boat  to  be  brought  uj).  I'",verythintj  being  prepared  .Sergeant  Brainard  was  .als-,  directed  to  leave  with 
party,  on  the  i6th,  for  Gap  Valljy,  if  I  were  not  b.ack  t)n  the  'Sth. 


I  "M 


IIOAT   CAMl"   TO    FORT   CONdEK 

At  1 2.25  p.  m.  (13th)  Started  for  station  with  Christiansen  and  dog-tcain ;  sledge  empty,  excepting  an  ax 
and  spade  on  it.  We  were  half  an  liour  in  reaching  Cape  Sumner,  whence  I  followed  first- made  trarks, 
which  took  me  well  out  from  shore.  At  4.50  p.  m.  teiiched  cross-roads,  one  fork  running  to  Gap,  the  other 
to  Cape  Sumner.  From  here  to  station  and  back  Christiansen  and  I  took  turns  in  riding.  The  tlogs  kept  up 
a  trot  all  the  way.  \X.  5.45  p.  m.  reached  tent  on  straits.  At  6.35  p.  m.  reached  Cape  Beechey.  At  7.50 
p.  m.  reached  snow  housv,  (depot  B).  Cooked  something  to  cat  here  and  g.ave  the  dogs  a  rest ;  was  afraid 
of  overworking  t'lem.     Ai  1 1.55  p.  m.  left  snow  house  for  station. 

April  \\. — .\t  2.03  a.  m.  reached  dei)ot  A.  \\.  4.15  a.  m.  reached  Fort  Conger.  Weather  beautiful 
during  the  journey;  some  wind  on  straits,  as  usual.  At  station  I  got  new  slats  for  sledge  and  a  pair  of 
runners  off  another  'ledge,  retaining  the  old  ones,  however,      i'he  dogs  were  well  fed  on  walrus  meat. 

i  raveletl  48  miles. 

HKTIJRN    FROM    KORT   CON(iK.R     lO    11()»T    CAMl'. 

At  9.55  p.  m.  left  Station ;  at  Dutch  Island  in  twenty  minutes,  following  the  ice-foot  newly  formed 
close  along  shore. 

Aprtl  15. — At  12.12  a.  m.  reached  depot  A;  thermometer  there,t  116  [  —  13.2°  Fahr.;  —25.1°  C.].  At 
2.30  a.  m.  arrived  at  depot  I!.  Cooked  a  meal  for  ourselves  ami  fed  the  dogs  with  meat  brought  from  the 
station.  Made  an  attempt  to  discover  lo  aiiof,  of  the  Hudson  Bay  sledge  '.^uried  in  the  drift  here,  both  by 
digging  from  the  tunnel  laterally  and  also  from  the  .surface  of  the  snow,  bi'.t  without  success.     We  were  too 

*  'I'liis  WHS  a  wlialc-lwttt  iibniiduncd  anil  cac'icil  by  II.  C.  Cliestcr,  u'  \\\z  IVuitis,  in  July,  1872.     This  boat  gave  the  name 
ti)  llic  camp.     A.  W.  (I. 

t   Vale  tliermonictcr,  arbitrary  scale. 


THK  LADY  FHANKLIN  HAY   KXPKDITION. 


193 


tired  to  attempt  much.  Cliristiani-fn  jjot  a  slinrl  nap;  I  rcmainal  up.  At  8.45  a.  m.,  liaving  given  tlic  dogs 
a  good  rest,  wc  left  depot,  taking  a  few  arti(  les  of  food.  Having  already  se'  'il  articles  on  tlir  sledge  we 
now  had  a  little  load,  a  very  small  one.  At  1.55  p  m.  reached  smooth  lloe  just  below  the  (;a[),  and  in 
half  all  hour  got  through  a  mass  of  ruhlile-ice  with  the  usual  amount  of  work  and  annoyance  and  were 
opposite  da]).     At  5.30  p.  m.  arrived  at  Hoat  ('amp.     Weather  during  the  day  very  line  indeed. 

'I'ravelcd  48  miles. 

During  the  remainder  of  this  day  (the  15th),  and  that  following,  two  of  the  Hudson  liay  sledges  were 
made  serviceable  by  means  of  tin  which  1  had  brought  over  for  the  pur|)ose,  and  other  means  at  hand. 
The  sledges  were  so  worn  and  broken  that  freiiuent  relashings  of  their  loads  had  become  necessary,  and  the 
friction  was  great  even  on  smooth,  hard  snow.  It  was  thought  best  to  ..bandon  two  of  the  Hudson  Hay 
sledges  (they  seeming  almost  beyond  repair),  a. id  to  substitute  a  sledge  made  from  the  old  ilog-sledgc  run- 
ners, with  cross-slats  contributed  partly  from  the  dog-sledge  but  mostly  improvised  from  old  pieces  of  plank. 

The  various  ac  :idents  to  men  and  sledges  had  rendered  a  new  organization  necessary  from  that  origi- 
nally contemplated,  so  that  we  left  the  IJoat  Camp  (the  depot  of  supplies),  with  sledges  and  eciuipment  as 
follt)ws : 

I.  One  iUi{;-slc(l(;e,  .■In/oinft/f,  haiilcd  liy  team  of  citjlit  iloys,  acconi|)anic<!  by  Christiansen  (Kskinio)  ami  myself,  with  loail 
and  «rei);hts  as  follows  : 


Pountls. 

Three  clothing  bags,  almul 24 

One  "  catch-all ''  (stove,  and  cook's  ba(j) 7'^ 

One  sheltei  lent  and  poles,  10  ll>^. ;  one  two-man 

bnip,  l}4  II" liji 

Se.il  thong,  rope  (logshoes,  iVc 10 

Kive  sacks  do[;  pemmican  500 


Total 


742^4 


1/ 


I*()unf1ii. 

One  dog-sledge,  .'/«/(»i'«<'//c So'i 

One   A  tent,  20  lbs.;  poles,  12   lbs,;  ami   pins, 

2  ll>s -^ 34 

One  two-man  sleeping-bag  (Imfialo) 82,'4 

One  single  sleeping  bag  (dog  skin) 14 

One  ndiber  blanket  ._ 6>4 

One  "  fnnnel  "  lamp  (complete) 5^'-^ 

One  ax,  6  14   lbs.;  .shovel,  S  lbs.;  s>'.onr-kr,ife,  l}4 

ll's- ti'X 

One  pistol,  3)^  lbs, ;  sextant,  &c.,  6^  lbs. ;  tele- 
scope and  compass,  4^.^  lbs 14 

In  .iddition  to  this  there  was  generally  on  the  dog-sledge  two  or  three  days'  rations. 

H.  One  large  sledge,  A'dirs,  drawn  by  Sergeants  lirainani  and  Kalslon  and  Corporal  .Salor ;  estimated  amount  drawn  by 
rach  man,  217  |)<mnils  (on  starling). 

III.  (hie  Hudson  Hay  .sledge, //,)//,  drawn  by  Sergeant  Jewell  and  Private  Fred';rick  ;  ettimalcd  amount  dragged  by  each, 
150  |H)Mnds. 

IV.  One  Hudson  Hay  sledge, /Ayr.f,  dragged  by  Sergeants  I.inn  and  l'".Iison;  estimated  amount  dragged  by  each   man 
150  |iounds. 

The  loads  of  the  sledges  tlrawn  by  the  men  comprised  the  following  "constant"  weights  and  rations: 


Pounds. 
One  six  man  tent,  27  lbs.;  poles,  15  lbs.;  jiins,  3 

ll>s -- - 45 

Two  three-man  sleeping-bags  (bulTalo).... 67 

One  rubber  blanket 10'^ 

One  funnel  lamp  (complete) 6'i 

One  ax,  one  spade,  one  snow-knife 13 


Pounds. 

Ove  shotgun,  >ne  pistol 11 

I'ivc  pair  snow  shoes 17'i 

Six  clothing  bags,  about 30 

Store-bag,  cook's  bag,  and  medicine,  al)oul .. 25 


Total 225,'^ 


About  joo  rations. 


Pounds. 

IVnimican  (liu'e  j'lice) lOy 

Ilac<Mi 20 

Hecf: 

corned 28 

Knglish 8,S 

nuisk-ox  (raw) f'S'j 

Sausage  ._ 28 

llread , 225 

Chocolate 12 

Tea 6 

Onion  (lowdcr 2 '4 

Cranberry  sauce 19 

i^i'unr  38 

H.  Mis.  393 —  13 


Iteans : 

liost<M>  baked ... 

dried,  roasted,  and  ground . 

Potatoes 

I.inic-juice  (frozen  in  small  cakes) 

Alcohol  (in  il-|>uund  s<|uarc  tins) 


Pounds. 

•).S 
3.S 
"4 
9 
94 


Total 900 '4 

Weight  of  large  sledge,  about  70  pounds;  two 

Hudson  Hay  sledges,  Ko 150 

Aggregate  (amount  drawn  by  seven  men) 1,276 

Average  drawn  by  each i8j 


194 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


;  I 


I    : 


;    1 


All  tins  were  removed  from  tlie  several  articles  of  food  (excepting  the  cranberry  sauce),  and  they  were 
sewed  up  in  light  bags.  The  dogs  got  at  the  meat  packed  on  the  Hudson  Bay  sledges  at  the  Hoat  Camp  and 
ate  up  about  thirty  pounds  of  bacon  and  corned  beef.  For  this  reason  and  others  I  didn't  adhere  strictly 
to  the  proportion  of  the  several  kinds  of  meat,  as  originally  contemplated.  Nor  while  at  the  Boat  Camp 
did  we  strictly  adhere  to  the  sledge  ration.  For  \>  ^nt  of  time,  &c.,  I  didn't  compare  amount  of  stores 
actually  accumulated  here  with  the  estimated  inventories;  there  was  one  can  of  lime-juice  pemmican  miss- 
ing if  nothing  else. 

Fifth  march  forward,*  [Jh/aris]  Boat  Camp  to  Rocky  Gorgk  Creek. 

/f/>ri/  1 6. — At  10.24  P-  m-  left  Boat  Camp  with  whole  party  and  took  a  course  for  what  I  supposed  to 
be  Gap  Valley,  a  ravine  across  Newman  Bay,  almost  directly  east  and  on  the  north  side  of  the  e^t.'nsion  of 
the  bay  to  the  south.  It  is  also  at  the  end  of  a  line  of  cliffs,  and  is  the  only  water-course,  excep'"''g  some 
nsignificant  gullies,  hardly  noticeable  on  that  side  of  the  bay.  For  some  distance  from  shore  we  traveled 
over  a  smooth  surface  of  ice  mostly.  This  was  succeeded  by  snow,  very  hard  and  level,  and  uninterrupted 
by  the  smallest  eminence  until  perhaps  half-way  across,  when  the  surface  became  somewhat  soft.  Notwith- 
standing the  very  heavy  load  the  dog?;  made  good  time,  and  soon  left  the  othor  sledges  far  to  the  rear.  We 
stopped  twice  to  relash  sledge-runner,  involving  about  forty  minutes'  delay. 

^/>ri/  17. — At  3.10  a.  m.  arrived  at  ravine,  at  upper  end  of  Little  Delta,  some  one-half  mile  inside  of 
ice-foot.  Leaving  the  «' jdgv'  and  Christiansen  here,  I  walked  up  the  bed  of  the  stream  about  a  mile  and  found 
the  grade  easy  and  "^hc  travelin  ~  good,  except  in  two  or  three  places  where  the  stones  were  exposed ;  mounted 
a  side  hill  some  hundred  feet,  and  saw  that  the  narrow  valley  debouched  from  a  rocky  gorge  a  little  farther  uf. 

At  4.30  a.  m.  returned,  and,  detaching  the  dogs,  sent  Christiansen  back  with  them  to  bring  up  Narc^-^ 
following  after  myself.  Sergeant  Brainard  had  found  it  necessary  to  concentrate  the  whole  party  on  two 
sledges  at  a  time.  The  dogs  continued  on  the  track  and  were  divided  between  Ila/l  and  JJaycs,  which  were 
a  long  way  behind.  I  assisted  in  bringing  in  Nars,  At  6.30  a.  m.  the  whole  party  together  in  camp  where 
dog-sledge  stopped.     The  dragging  over  the  last   lalf  of  the  route  was  not  found  easy.     Weather  very  fine. 

Advanced  10  miles  in  4  hours;  traveled  14  miles  in  8  hours  4  minutes. 

Sixth  march,  from  Mouth  to  Head  of  Rocky  Gorge  Cheek. 

At  10.35  P-  "!•  "1^'"  party  started,  leaving  behind  Nares  and  concentrating  on  the  other  two  sledges. 
At  10.50  p.  m.  left  V  ith  the  dog-sledge;  dropped  one-half  of  the  load  after  proceeding  a  few  hundred  yards. 
We  soon  par.sed  the  others,  and  a  little  beyond  my  farthest  of  yesterday  came  to  the  narrow  gorge  referred  to. 
Its  vertical  sides  were  but  a  few  feet  apart;  underfoot  the  stones  were  exposed.  Passing  this  the  stream-bed 
widened  and  ran  between  sloping  hills,  but  we  encountered  at  the  same  time  deep,  soft  snow.  This  was 
the  general  character  of  the  traveling — ravines  with  soft  snow,  \.aried  by  gorges,  at  intervals,  with  exposed 
stones  and  fragments  of  rocks.  The  stream  is  very  tortuous,  but  the  grade  very  slight  its  entire  length, 
except  when  interrupted  here  and  there  by  low  banks  of  drifted  snow.  Its  general  course,  as  near  as  I  could 
judge,  is  southwest. 

April  18. — At  2.20  a.  m.  reached  a  sudden  widening  of  the  ravine,  when,  from  the  low  elevation  of  the 
adjoining  hills,  I  was  satisfied  we  were  near  its  head ;  the  traveling  for  the  last  two  hours  or  more  through 
deep,  soft  snow.  At  2.45  a.  m.  sent  Christiansen  back  aft^r  rest  of  the  load,  and  continued  ahead  by  myself 
to  reconnoiter.  After  half  an  hour's  walk  I  ascended  a  bill  to  my  left,  but  saw  nothing  of  note  excejjt  New- 
man Bay,  &c.  In  another  hour  I  was  back  again,  and,  after  some  delay,  continued  on  down-stream,  hoping 
to  meet  the  main  party,  but  only  met  the  dog-team  slowly  returning.  (Camped.)  At  7  a.  m.  reached  open 
place  again,  and  8.30  lighted  lamp  for  su[)per;  10  a.  m.  supper  finished. 

Advanced  6  miles;  time,  forward,  less  delays,  3  hours  and  30  minutes.  Traveled  17  miles;  time,  in 
route,  8  hours,  10  minutes. 

Seventh  march,  Gorge  Creek  to  lower  part  of  Lost  River. 

At  5.40  p.  m.  got  up;  at  6.55  p.  m,  lighted  lamp  ;  at  7  p.  m.  breakfast  of  sausage,  bread,  and  tea.  No 
beans,  potatoes,  or  sugar;  used  a  little  more  than  the  allowance  of  meat,  on  this  account.  At  10.12  p.  m. 
started  with  half-load,  the  traveling  somewhat  better.     In  an  hour  we  came  to  a  fork  of  the  ravine  coming 

*The  journeys  back  and  forth  on  the  straits  [Rolieion  Channel],  after  crossing  the  first  time,  are  not  counted .  —J.  B.  L. 


'4 


*sis^/^ 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  KAY  EXPEDITION. 


195 


in  from  the  north,  the  first  branch  of  the  main  stream  which  seemed  to  offer  a  practicable  route  to  tne  north. 
One  or  two  had  been  passed,  but  they  were  so  narrow  and  steep,  mere  gullies,  as  to  forbid  the  assumption 
that  they  formed  part  of  Lieutenant  Beaumont's  route.  It  was  the  route  of  this  ofticer,  as  laid  down  on 
his  map,  that  I  was  endeavoring  to  follow.  However,  I  continued  on,  but  when  a  few  hundred  yards,  seeing 
the  stream  bearing  decidedly  to  the  east,  I  left  the  sledge,  and,  ascending  a  low  slope  to  the  left,  soon  found 
myself  on  a  "divine,"  very  similar  to  the  divides  on  the  Western  prairies.  To  the  north  the  "breaks"  of 
water-courses,  running  in  that  direction,  could  be  s  een.  On  the  sloi)e  alluded  to  I  saw  what  Christiansen 
gives  the  Eskimo  names  for  eagle  [Nektoialik  an  i  iertersoakj;  was  unable  to  get  a  shot. 

April  19. — At  12.12  a.  m.  back  again  at  the  ()rominent  ravine  referred  to  above.  Built  a  cairn  as  a 
guide  for  the  others  and  then  followed  it  up  with  the  sledge.  After  proceeding  forty  minutes  the  ravine  dwin- 
dled down  to  the  proportions  of  a  shallow  "prairie  draw,"  one  miniature  valley  running  north,  anodier — the 
main  one — bearing  off  to  the  east.  Dropped  my  load  here  and  went  back  to  last  camp  for  what  was  left. 
^.30  a.  111.  back  again  with  entire  load  thus  far.  Left  half  of  load  and,  proceeding  north,  soon  found  myself 
on  level  ])lain,  its  broad  expanse  stretching  out  for  miles  all  around.  The  weather  was  overcast,  threatening 
snow,  but  I  cou'd  see  the  "breaks"  to  the  north  anil,  an  hour's  traveling,  reached  them — the  snow  affording 
very  good  traveling — and  found  myself  in  a  watercourse,  quite  broad  and  offering  a  very  good  route;  the 
snow  was  generally  hard  and  kvf  stones  exposed.  The  general  course  of  the  stream  seems  northwest;  it  is 
very  pictures(jue. 

About  7.15  a.  111.  I  came  to  what  looks  like  a  gateway,  opening  into  the  street,  a  canon  running  east 
and  west  and  so  level  that  it  was  with  many  doubts  i  concluded  to  the  left  wasdown-stream.  At  7.30  a.  m., 
seeing  no  signs  of  the  expected  sea,  I  pitched  tent,  ahd,  leaving  everything  in  it,  after  forty  minutes'  delay 
started  back  for  rest  of  load.  10.15  arrived  on  plain,  and  at  1 1  a.  m.  loaded  up  and  '•n  route  back  to  tent. 
'  .  .45  ]).  111.  reached  tent,  very  tired.  At  6  p.  m.  supper  finished  and  Christiansen  and  I  in  sleeping-bag. 
I'"elt  a  good  deal  of  uneasiness  at  not  finding  the  sea  (or  some  signs  of  it)  which  I  expected  to  reach  long 
before  this.  Felt  no  assurance  that  I  was  going  down  stream  and  not  up.  Could  only  convey  my  ideas  to 
Christiansen  by  signs,  and  he  was  equally  willing  to  agree  to  either  proposition. 

Proceeded  10  miles;  time,  5  hou/s,  15  minutes.     Traveled  30  miles;  time,  16  hours,  t,2>  minutes. 

April  20. — To  Repulse  Harbor  and  back  with  empty  sledge. 

At  6.30  a.  111.  got  up  and  proceeded  to  jirepare  breakfast;  morning  fine.  At  10.30  a.  m.  started  down- 
stream with  empty  sledge,  resolved  to  find  out  something  definite.  After  proceeding  half  a  mile  the  canon 
changed  into  a  wide  valley  bordered  by  sloping  hills  which,  at  a  little  distance  back,  assumed  the  propor- 
tions of  mountains.  Passing  the  point  of  a  hill,  which  hid  the  view  ahead  like  a  cape,  the  valley  was  seen 
to  continue  on  in  a  direction  a  little  north  of  west  until  closed  up  entirely,  apparently,  by  a  low  range  of 
hills.  At  1 1.4s  a.  ni.  we  reached  this  ]'lace  and  found  a  narrow  gap.  I  here  delayed  thirty  minutes  and  as- 
cended a  hill,  but  could  see  little  but  another  valley-like  expanse  ahead,  which  seemed  to  turn  to  the  north. 
In  half  an  hour  more  we  were  opposite  this  opening  to  the  north,  and  saw  the  floe-bergs  lining  the  long- 
looked-for  coast.  On  our  right  and  left  were  low,  sloping  points  about  half  a  mile  distant  from  each  other; 
behind  us  was  a  semi-circle  of  hills  and  mountains,  a  good  way  off,  and  before  us  a  level  delta  of  bare  stones. 
A  few  feet  more  in  the  elevation  of  the  Polar  Basin  would  make  a  bay  of  this  place ;  it  was  doubtless  the 
bed  of  one  sometime  in  the  past.  1.15  p.  m.  reached  the  sea  after  a  walk  of  about  a  mile  over  the  "delta'' 
referred  to,  having  left  the  sledge  back.  About  one-half  mile  from  the  coast  I  found  an  old  piece  of  drift- 
wood about  6  feet  [i.8"'J  long,  6  inches  ^152"""]  wide,  and  4  inches  [102"""  |  thick,  p'ne  or  fir.  apparently  split 
from  the  body  or  branch  of  a  tree.  It  was  partially  buried.  A  sample  preserved.  While  on  the  coast  I 
perceived,  several  miles  to  the  west  and  quite  near  the  coast,  a  lark«pot  that  loot^ed  like  a  cairn,  but  having 
been  often  deceiveil  in  cairn-like  rocks,  and  not  wishing  to  delay,  I  didn't  visit  it.  At  2  p.  m.  started  back 
with  sledge,  and  in  i.3<(  hours  of  rai)id  traveling  reached  camp.  Fo\  tracks  noticed  cii  route.  6.35  p.  m., 
after  a  luncii,  Christiansen  and  I  started  up-streanr. 

At  6.35  p.  m.,  after  a  lunch,  Christiansen  and  I  started  up-stream  again  with  cmjjty  sledge  to  find  main 
party  and  help  them  along.  At  8.15  p.  m.  arrived  near  head  of  stream  and  found  main  party  in  camp  just 
about  to  eat  breakfast,  in  which  we  joined  them,  and  also  replenished  our  own  store  of  rations  which  had 
run  out  entirely.     .At  10.40  p.  m.  started  down-stream  again  with  a  load  from  the  man-sledges. 

April  2\.—^\.  12.40  a.  in.  reached  camp  and  went  to  bed.  Weather  cold  but  clear  and  bright.  At 
Sergeant  Brainanl's  camp  it  was  —39.0"  [—39.4°  C.|. 

Traveled  about  25  miles;  time  en  route,  14  hours,  10  minutes. 


I 


196 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I  )J 


[Ml 


Eighth  march  forward,  Los:'  River  to  Skaco'.st. 

At  6.55  p.  m.  started  from  camp,  taking  half  of  the  impeiliinenta  now  on  hand,  which  made  a  very  heavy 
load.  At  8.34  p.  m.  we  reached  the  camp  of  main  party,  who  had  passed  my  camp  anil  continued  on  down, 
till  just  above  the  Gap.  The  upper  part  of  this  wide  valley  had  some  soft  sr.ow  and  tl)e  lower  part  a  good 
many  bare  places  where  the  stones  were  exposed,  so  the  traveling  was  bad.  When  I  reached  here  a  strong 
wind  down  the  valley  had  become  a  very  disagreeable  snow-storm.  After  rehashing  sledge  Christiansen  went 
back  after  rest  of  load ;  I  turned  over  to  the  main  party  that  part  of  theirs  which  I  hail  brought  thus  far. 
I  found  the  men  all  asleep.  All  were  well,  though  a  good  deal  worn  by  the  hard  work.  At  11.35  P-  '"•  ''^'^^ 
with  the  main  party  to  assist  them  till  the  Antoinette  (the  dog-sledge)  overtook  me.  We  left  one  of  the 
small  sledges  back  and  advanced  JViires  some  distance  below  the  gap  or  gorge.  In  passing  this  place  on 
return  for  other  sledge  I  met  Christiansen  and  joined  him  again. 

A/iri/  22 — The  storm  made  traveling  exceedingly  uncomfortable,  especially  on  return  for  second  half  of 
load.  One  could  hardly  open  his  eyes  or  see  anything  when  they  were  open.  In  course  of  time,  however, 
we  got  the  first  half-load  to  the  east  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  valley  and  reached  it  again  with  the  other  half 
at  4  a.  m.  We  were  now  near  the  coast,  and  the  traveling  seeming  very  good,  I  put  on  everything  and  started 
ahead.  We  followed  the  tracks  of  the  main  p-irty,  who,  in  the  mean  time,  had  passed  by  me,  and,  with  the 
storm  at  our  backs,  were  getting  along  very  well,  when,  all  of  a  sudden,  the  sledge-runner  broke  down.  It 
had  cracked  from  end  to  end.  We  were  able,  however,  to  get  along  with  a  few  articles,  having  now  a  clear 
ice-foot.  At  6.30  a.  m.  reached  a  floe-berg  ahead,  in  the  lee  of  which  the  main  party  were  endeavoring  to 
pitch  their  tent,  by  means  of  guy-ropes,  a  heavy  banking  of  snow,  &c.  Despairing  of  making  the  A  tent 
stand,  Christiansen  and  I  pitched  the  little  shelter  tent  and  then  got  supjjer  with  the  men.  At  1 1.30  a.  m.  in 
sleeping-bag  with  Christiansen,  the  little  tent  made, smaller  yet  by  the  snow  piled  all  around  it,  almost  to  the 
top.  While  at  supper  some  of  the  dogs  thought  it  a  good  place  to  rest,  and  we  returned  to  find  the  bag 
covered  with  snow.  Remained  in  the  sleeping-bag  the  remainder  of  the  day,  missing  supper  prepared  in  the 
large  tent.     The  storm  continued  to  rage  till  early  in  the  morning  of  the  23d,  when  the  wind  ceased. 

Proceeded  10  miles;  time,  about  6  hours.     Traveled  about  25  miles;  time,  11  hours  and  35  minutes. 

Ninth  march,  along  Coast  to  Snow-slopes. 

A/'/i/  23.— At  2.30  a.  m.  got  up  and  crawled  out.  Woke  those  in  the  large  tent.  The  dogs  ate  up 
all  the  bacon  left,  about  20  pounds,  and  about  half  as  much  F^nglish  beef  during  our  sleej);  it  was  packed 
on  the  JVa/rs  and  out  of  their  reach,  it  was  thought.  I  then  sent  Christiansen  back  for  what  was  \fft  l>ehind 
yesterday.  During  his  absence  we  built  a  cairn  and  left  in  it  two  days'  rations  for  the  entire  party  and  one 
day's  dog-food  (a  list  ajipended). 

At  7.15  a.  m.,  Christianstvi  having  returned,  I  started  with  the  dog-sledge.  The  main  party  left  at  7 
o'clock.  The  broken  runner  had  been  patched  up  before  starting,  but  I  felt  sure  it  had  seen  its  last  day. 
However,  we  got  along  for  an  hour  when  it  gave  way  again.  Leaving  almost  everything  I  proceeded  ahead 
and  overtook  the  Mires,  Hall,  and  Hayes.  1  exchanged  runners  with  the  first-named  sledge  (its  load  was 
lighter  than  miwej  and  lefi  it  to  the  ingenuity  of  Sergeant  Elison  to  again  patch  up  the  broken  runner, 
if  possible.  All  this  occupied  some  time  and  then  the  men  started  ahead  while  Christiansen  started  back  for 
load  and  I  awaited  his  return.  On  his  return,  everything  was  put  on  the  dog-sledge  and  we  proceeded  en 
route.  At  and  beyond  Drift  Point  the  snow-slopes  and  soft  snow  were  met  with,  and  it  became  necessary 
to  "  double  ui),"  /.  c,  advance  by  half  loads.  Some  distance  beyond  the  Point  I  overtook  the  men,  brought 
to  a  stand-still  by  the  mended  runner  giving  way  completely,  beyond  all  redemption.  I  considered  several 
expedients,  and  finally,  as  the  only  alternative,  lashed  the  two  Hudson  Hay  sledges  together  and  packed  on 
them  the  load  of  the  A^airs  in  addition  to  their  own,  the  seven  men  combining  on  this  one  vehicle.  I  added 
to  the  dog-sledge  the  old  runner  thus  made. 

At  2.45  p.  m.  reached  a  place  where  it  was  impracticable  to  go  farther  except  on  the  floe.  As  this 
involved  some  work  in  the  rubble  ice  adjoining,  I  sent  Ciuistiansen  back  for  rest  of  load,  while  I  went  back 
to  help  the  men.  They  only  got  along  with  great  eflbrt;  the  two  sledges,  lashed  together  and  so  loaded, 
dragged  like  a  harrow.  We  reached  the  place  just  referred  to  and  went  into  camp,  about  the  same  time 
cutting  a  route  through  the  rubble-ice  near  by.  Our  position  was  about  a  mile  west  of  Plack  Horn  Clifls. 
The  traveling  this  march  was  as  already  described,  except  that  between  Camp  and  Drift  Point  the  route  lay 
over  an  ice-foot  covered  lightly  with  hard  snow. 

Advanced  5  miles;  time,  about  4  hours.     Traveled  15  miles;  time,  8  hours,  30  minutes. 


tHE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITIO]^. 


197 


Tknth  march,  Sn«jw-si.opes  td  Black  Horn  Cluks. 

Apr:!  24. — lireakfast,  6  a.  m.  At  8  a.  m.  all  started,  each  sledge  leaving  behind  half  its  load — llic 
two  Hudson  Hay  sle<lges  separated  from  each  other.  Shortly  after  starting  we  encountered  rul)l)le-ice  which 
recjuired  more  or  less  road-making  for  half  a  mile.  Opposite  Hlack  Horn  Ciliffs,  and  extending  a  short  dis- 
tance this  si<le,  was  a  clear,  smooth  Hoe  of  ice  (formed  last  year  I  suppose),  over  which,  with  a  heavy  wind 
on  our  backs,  we  made  rapid  progress.  When  opposite  the  farther  end  of  the  clifts,  and  some  distance  from 
shore,  further  advance  was  stoppeil  by  a  considerable  mass  of  rubble-ice.  Unloading  in  the  lee  of  a  hum- 
mock I  sent  men  and  sledges  back  for  what  remained  at  last  cam]),  and  went  forward  alone  to  find  a  route 
to  the  shore  and  also  examine  a  ravine  some  distance  ahead  which  I  thought  might  be  Stanton  (lorge.  I 
found  a  route,  somewhat  circuitous,  to  the  shore  without  much  difficulty,  and  continued  nn  over  a  smooth, 
level  floe  (last  year's),  which  extended  half  way  to  (iorge.  'I'he  other  half  of  the  distance  a  good  route  was 
found  on  a  hard,  gently  sloping  snow-slope  inside  the  line  of  bergs  and  hummocks  which  here  commenced 
to  fringe  the  shore.  I  saw  two  ptarmigan  in  winter  plumage  along  here.  I  found  no  cairn  or  provisions, 
though  I  went  half  a  mile  beyond  the  (Jorge.  The  violent  wind  made  my  return  slow  and  very  uncomfort- 
able. At  3.30  \).  m.,  got  back  to  the  hummock,  ...id  found  Sergeant  Brainard,  Christiansen,  and  uog-sledge. 
The  others  had  not  yet  returned.  At  6  p.  m.  got  everything  to  shore,  the  two  Hudson  Hay  sledges  coming 
up  with  our  last  load.  The  men  had  encountered  a  good  deal  of  difficulty  in  walking  back  against  the 
head-wind,  though  I  sent  their  sledges  back  on  the  dog-sledge.  Pitched  tents  close  to  cliff  and  got  to  bed 
about  9  or  10  p.  m. 

Advanced  6  miles;  time,  about  5  hours.     Traveled  18  miles;  time,  about  10  hours. 

Elevknih  mar(H,  Black  Horn  Clikks  to  Rkst  GoRfiK. 

At  4.40  a.  m.  Sergeant  Jewell  got  up  to  cook  breakfast.  Christiansen  (Eskimo)  complained  of  being 
sick,  and  ate  no  breakfast;  he  certainly  looked  so.  I  understood  by  his  signs,  in  a  vague  way,  that  something 
was  the  matter  with  his  stomach.  I  delayed  somewhat  on  his  account,  but  then  concluded  to  move  on  to 
the  gorge  and  there  go  into  camp,  delay  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  send  him  back  if  still  sick.  At  9  a.  m. 
started  off;  snowing.  Christiansen  managed  to  han<lle  the  whip,  but  had  to  ride  on  the  sledge  whenever  it 
was  possible.  We  had  some  trouble  in  getting  through  some  rough  ice  before  reaching  the  snow-slope,  but 
reached  the  Gorge  in  about  an  hour,  about  2  «/^  miles.  Pitched  my  tent  and  put  Christiansen  in  sleeping-bag ; 
a  drink  of  whisky  was  the  only  medicine  I  gave  !'.im.  Taking  Sergeant  Brainard  I  returned  with  dog-sledge 
to  our  last  camp  and  brought  up  the  pemmican  and  after  that  another  load,  which,  with  what  the  Hudson 
Bay  sledges  brought  up,  left  nothing  more.  The  two  sledges,  Hayes  and  Hall,  were  now  almost  worn  out 
and  very  hard  to  drag.  Shortly  after  starting  this  morning  the  sun  came  out  bright  and  warm  and  so  con- 
tinued; we  took  advantage  of  it  to  dry  our  clothes,  &c.  In  the  afternoon  I  sent  Sergeants  Ralston  and 
Jewell  ahead  to  try  and  find  the  English  cache  at  Stanton  Gorge.  They  were  fortunate  enough  to  find 
it ;  the  cairn  stands  on  a  hill  of  some  elevation  some  distance  back,  and  doesn't  "  show  up  "  from  the  western 
approach. 

Advanced  2^  miles;  time,  i  hour.     Traveled  7^^  miles;  time,  3  hours. 

TWKLKTII    MARCH,    ResT    GoRGK.   TO    FrANKIIKLI)    BaV. 

April  26. — At  2.30  a  m.  woke  Jewell.  Before  starting  we  built  a  cairn  here  and  left  one  day's  rations 
for  entire  party  and  one  foi  che  dogs,  also  everything  in  the  way  of  clothing,  foot-gear,  &c.,  that  could  be 
spared.  This  was  cache  No.  2.  Christiansen  expressed  himself  as  well  and  able  to  travel,  though  he  didn't 
eat  much.  At  6.45  a.  m.  entire  party  left  camp.  At  8  a.  m.  I  reached  Stanton  Gorge  with  dog-sledge  in 
advance  of  the  others.  Sent  Christiansen  back  for  rest  of  load,  and  the  others  soon  coming  along  Sergeant 
Ralston  showed  me  the  cache  upon  a  hill  or  shoulder  of  the  mountains,  about  a  hundred  feet  [30"']  high. 
'J'his  cache  consisted  of  40  rations,  56  pounds  sweet  pemmican,  10  pounds  bacon,  ami  a  metal  box  contain- 
ing the  hard  bread,  jjotatoes,  iS:c.,  also  a  can  of  rum  which  Sergeant  Ralston  had  brought  down  to  Rest 
Gorge  the  previous  day.  I  built  up  the  cairn  again  and  left  a  record  of  my  movements  to  date,  and  took 
the  rations  to  the  ice-foot  convenient  to  the  dog-sledge  on  its  return,  for  I  thought  it  desirable  to  take  them 
on  to  Cape  Ikyant.  I  then  sent  the  main  party  on.  At  10.40  a.  m.,  Christiansen  coming  up,  we  continued 
on  with  all  the  dogs  could  haul,  reached  Cape  Stanton,  crossed  Hand  Bay,  and  at  2.15  p.  m.  overtook  the 


198 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXrEDITION. 


^! 


other  sledges.  I  told  the  sergeant  to  continue  on  a  certain  distance,  and,  then  camping,  to  return  here  for 
my  load,  which  I  there  took  off,  and  went  back  to  Stanton  Gorge  tor  what  was  left  there,  taking  Sergeant 
Ralston  along  in  place  of  Christiansen  who  complained  of  his  head.  ^Vt  8.15  p.  m.  got  back  to  camp  of 
main  party,  which  was  near  Frankfield  Bay  opposite  Mount  Lowe.  A  beautiful  day,  calm  and  bright.  The 
route  from  last  camp  led  us  as  far  as  Cape  Stanton,  inside  a  line  of  floe-bergs,  on  a  snow-sk)pe  quite  steep 
in  places  but  generally  hard  on  the  surface,  and  offering  fair  traveling.  As  an  exception,  however,  it  should 
be  stated  that  there  is  an  ice-foot  for  some  little  distance  at  Stanton  Gorge.  The  traveling  over  Hand  Hay 
was  also  quite  good. 

Advanced  9  miles;  time,  5^  hours.     Traveled  27  miles;  time,  13  hours,  30  mirtites 

Thirteenth  m.iRch,  Mount  Lowe  to  Cape  Bryant. 

Apil  27. — At  7  a.  m.,  about,  breakfast.  Before  starting  I  left  one  day's  rations  for  entire  party  in 
cache.  At  8.25  a.  m.  started  with  dog-sledge,  leaving  half-load  behind.  Main  party  started  at  same  time. 
Traveling  rather  heavy  (over  snow-covered  ice-foot).  At  9.25  a.  m.  reached  east  shore  of  Frankfield  Bay. 
On  the  bay  the  snow  was  generally  hard  and  good.  From  here  the  only  route,  or  at  least  the  best  route, 
forward  was  over  the  foot  of  a  hill,  the  ascent  rather  steep  and  the  slope  quite  so  the  snow  on  it  had  packed 
hard  and  smooth.  Continued  forward  till  9.45  a.  m.,  when  reaching  the  ice-foot,  Christiansen  and  I  threw 
off  load  and  started  back  for  remainder  met  the  men  a  few  minutes  after  reaching  the  bay,  and  at  1 0.45  were 
at  last  camp,  getting  back  again  to  first  half  of  load  at  noon.  At  1.42  p.  m.  I  reached  farther  side  of  an 
indentation  of  the  coast,  which  really  deserves  to  be  named.  Here  I  sent  Christiansen  back  again  for  first  half 
of  load,  and  the  men  coming  along  one-fourth  hour  afterwards,  I  joined  them  and  helped  to  pull;  continued 
with  them  about  two  hours,  and  then  went  back  to  where  load  was  thrown  off  to  await  Christiansen's  arrival 
in  order  to  haul  tent,  &c.,  brought  on,  for  1  knew  that  when  we  reached  Cape  Bryant  it  would  be  too  late 
to  go  back  without  rest.  I  had  told  Sergeant  Brainard  to  keep  on  till  he  reached  the  cape.  I  walked  back 
in  just  a'uout  one-third  the  time  occupied  in  moving  the  sledges  forward.  I  waited  an.  hour  before  the  dog. 
sledge  arrived.  At  5.40  p.  m.  started  en  route  again.  Some  hours  after  this  I  saw  four  ptarmigan  and  killed 
three  with  the  shotgun,  Christiansen  had  some  time  before  when  by  himself  killed  two  with  the  pistol. 
(This  pistol  had  a  wooden  stock,  similar  to  a  gun's,  fixed  to  it,  and  we  habitually  carried  it  on  the  sledge.) 

At  8.30  p.  m.  reached  Cape  Bryant.  The  others  had  not  been  in  long.  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Ral- 
ston had  been  suffering  from  snow-blindness,  and  Private  Frederick  from  a  hurt  knee.  At  10,30  supper, 
and  an  hour  afterwards  in  sleeping-bag. 

The  traveling  since  leaving  Frankfield  Bay  has  been  along  a  low  fore  shore,  excepting  two  or  three 
indentations  of  the  coast,  where  we  crossed  old  floes.  Along  the  shore  we  traveled  over  a  snow-covered 
ice-foot,  or  what  is  generally  called  an  ice-foot,  sometimes  gooti  and  sometimes  Ixtii;  never  veiy  bad.  •  Over 
the  floes  referred  to,  it  was  generally  quite  fair.     Weather  very  fine. 

Advanced  15  miles;  time, 6  hours,  2  r.mutes.     Traveled  about  36  miles;  time,  12  hours,  5  minutes. 

at  cape  hrvant. 

At  10.40  a.  m.  got  up.  After  breakfast  Sergeant  Jewell  and  I  ascended  the  hill  or  ridge  just  to  the 
south  and  got  a  good  view  of  the  country.  Cape  Britannia  was  dimly  visible;  later  in  the  day  it  was  (juite 
distinct  even  from  near  by  the  tents.  The  view  is  so  well  re[)resented  in  Lieutenant  Beaumont's  journal 
that  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  it.  Sergeants  Brainard,  Ralston,  and  Elison  went  along  the  coast  to  the 
south  to  look  for  Lieutenant  Beaumont's  cache  or  cairn,  but  were  unsuccessful.  They  ascended  a  high  cliff, 
some  five  miles  distant,  and  got  a  good  view  of  the  floes,  and  reported  that  the  route  ahead  looked  very 
good.  I  made  no  further  efforts  to  find  the  cache,  principally  for  want  of  time.  I  had  kept  a  good  look 
out  en  route  here,  and  felt  pretty  sure  that  no  cairn  could  be  found  readily.  After  my  return  from  the  hill 
the  rest  of  the  day  was  spent  in  making  prei)arations,  fijc,  for  further  advance.  Late  in  the  day  I  sent 
Christiansen  back  for  what  was  left  behind  yesterday 

ji/>ri/  29. — Personally  inspected  the  two  Hudson  Bay  sledges,  and  was  confirmed  in  the  declaration  of 
all  the  men  that  they  were  entirely  unserviceable  for  further  use.  One  1  cut  up  and  made  slats  of  for  the 
dog-sledge,  the  other  was  repaired  sufficiently  to  carry  the  constant  weights  of  Sergeant  Linn's  party  on 
their  return  to  Boat  Camp.  After  this  I  built  a  cairn  on  the  slope  of  a  hill,  perhaps  a  quarter  mile  from  the 
shore,  and  deposited  inside  the  forty  English  rations,  all  our  own  that  were  surplus,  the  gun,  &c.,  and  every- 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


199 


thing  I  thought  we  could  do  without.  I  also  left  a  record.  Sergeant  Brainard  suffered  severely  from  snow- 
blindness  during  the  day,  and  had  to  remain  in  the  tent.  During  my  stay  at  Cape  Bryant  a  strict  adherence 
to  the  ration  was  not  observed.  I  gave  Sergeant  l.inn  a  dozen  pounds  of  the  English  beef  and  some  sugar, 
tea,  iV'c,  fearing  the  rations  left  in  cache  (four  days)  might  not  be  sufficient.  Moreover,  the  meat  left  in 
cache  consisted  entirely  of  lime-juice  pemmican  (very  much  disliked  by  all).  The  dog-sledge  being  now 
the  only  means  of  ailvance,  I  selected  Sergeant  Brainard  to  accompany  Christiansen  and  myself,  and  made 
up  a  list  of  seventy-five  rations,  sufficient  for  twenty-five  days'  absence  from  Cape  Bryant,  viz : 

founds. 

40 

34 

- '7 

-- - «9 


I'emmican  (lime-juice),  35  rations .. 

Musk  meat  (frozen  in  tins),  25  rations 

Canned  meats  (sausage  and  English  beef),  15  rations  . 

Heans,  lioston,  ba'  ed 

I'otatoes,  e vaiKjrated 

Cranberry  sauce  (3  cans)  .. 

Tea,  30  rations ... 

Chocolate,  25  rations 

Sugar 

I.ime-juice  (fro/en  in  cakes) 

Hard  bread 

Milk 

Alcohol 


5 

4'A 

2 

3 
10 

60 

^'A 
29 


Total 227^^ 

The  constant  weights,  I'^ic,  consisted  of  i  A  tent,  poles  and  pins,  2  sleeping-bags  (i  buffalo  and  i  dog- 
skin), I  cooking  lamp,  i  rubber  blanket,  i  ax,  i  spade,  i  hatchet,  i  pistol,  i  sextant,  i  sledge-runner  (extra), 
I  shelter  tent,  i  small  cooking  lamp  (extra),  2  pair  snow-shoes,  i  catch-all  bag,  containing  ammunition,  cups, 
plates,  spoons,  sounding  line  and  lead,  brush,  record  cases,  tin  funnel,  measure-cup,  chopping-board,  &c.j 
3  clothes  bags  (individual  weights  given  elsewhere) : 

Pounds. 
Total  constant  vcights 176 

Dog-pemmican  (3  sacks),  300  pounds  ;  weight  of  sledge  .^m/o/W//^,  80  pounds .       380 


FOURTKENTH    MARCH,  LEFT    CaPE    BrVANT,  OPPOSITE    TO    St.  GeORGE'S    FiORIJ. 

At  4.18  p.  m.  (29th)  Sergeant  Linn  and  party  left  on  return  to  Boat  Camp.  I  gave  him  written  orders 
to  return  there,  and  thence  .send  three  of  his  party  to  Fort  Conger  to  report  my  progress  while  he  awaited 
further  instructions.  At  4.47  p.  m.  I  left  with  dog-sledge,  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Christiansen  (F.skimo) 
taking  a  course  towards  Cape  May.  The  weather  continued  delightful.  Found  the  floes  ijuite  hard  and 
levei,  interrupted  only  by  occasional  low,  detached  hummocks  over  which  the  drifted  snow  made  our  pro- 
gress very  satisfactory.  When  nearly  opposite  Dragon  Point,  however,  the  snow  crust  seemed  to  weaken 
and  the  sledge  fretjuently  sank  to  the  slats,  requiring  our  united  exertions  to  move  it. 

A/>ri/  30. — At  I  a.  m.  camped  opposite  Dragon  Point,  the  dogs  being  much  exhausted  by  such  a  heavy 
load.  The  clearest  day  I  have  yet  seen;  no  wind.  Temperature  lower  than  usual.  At  4  a.  m.  finished 
supper.  At  4.20  a.  m.  thermometer,  —1°  [  —  18.3°  C.J;  barometer,  29.35  [745.48"""].  Halts  during  march 
for  relashing,  &c.,  about  thirty  minutes  in  all.  Lieutenant  Beaumont's  sketches  and  descriptions  of  this 
section  very  good,  as  well  as  I  could  judge  by  the  eye.     At  4.50  a.  m.  went  to  bed. 

Advanced  16  miles  in  8  hours  and  13  minutes.    Traveled  16  miles  in  8  hours  and  13  minutes. 

Fifteenth  march,  opposite  Beaumont  Fiord. 

At  1.05  p.  ni.  thermometer,  —6°  [—21.1°  C.j;  minimum,  since  last  read,  —14°  [  —  25.6°  C.];  barom 
eter,  29.40  1746.75"'"'].  Weather  very  fine;  10.05  'i*  "!•'  lamp  lighted;  2  p.  m.,  breakfast.  At  3.40  p.  ni. 
thermometer,  —0.5°  f— 18.1°  C.J;  barometer,  29.4°  [746.75"'"'].     At  5.22  p.  m.  started  with  full  load. 

From  6.07  to  6.25  p.  m.  stopped  to  double  up,  /'.  <•.,  left  half  of  load.  From  7.45  to  7.55  p.  m.  stopped 
to  rest;  it  requires  our  united  exertions  to  get  along.  At  8.56  p.  m.  level  floe;  stopped  by  hummock;  sent 
Brainard  and  Christiansen  back  for  rest  of  load  while  I  proceeded  to  take  a  number  of  compass  sights ; 


200 


THE  LADV  TRANKLIN  JtAY  KXl'KDlTlOK. 


M 


i  ;i 


!ri 


results  very  unsatisfactory,  there  being  differences  of  lo"  in  the  same  bearing.  Judging  that  when  sledge 
returned  it  would  be  time  to  camp  I  pitched  tent  an<l  made  preparations  for  supper ;  i  c  p.  ni.,  thermometer, 
24°;  [—4.4°  C.J;  barometer,  29.38  1 746.24"""];  thermometer  in  tent,  26^  [-3.3°  C.j. 

Af(iy  I. — At  I  a.  m.  thermometer,  21°  [—6.1°  C. I ;  barometer,  29.47  [748.52'""'] ;  sky  somewliat  cloudy, 
at  1.05  a.  in.  dog-team  returned;  at  3.10  a.  m.  supper;  thermometer,  15°  [  — 9.4°  C.|;  barometer,  29.47 
[748.52"""].  Weather  pleasant  during  jjast  twenty-four  hours;  overcast  but  only  moderately  so.  The  drag- 
ging very  heavy  and  fatiguing;  snow  sometimes  knee  deep,  the  sledge  coming  to  a  stand-still  repeatedly.  On 
these  occasions  the  dogs  com])lacently  sit  on  their  haunches  and  observe  the  operation  of  pulling  it  out, 
which  falls  to  us.  After  dropping  half  the  load  the  traveling  seemed  to  improve,  due,  possibly,  to  a  slight 
change  of  direction,  which  brought  us  on  a  line  with  Cape  Britannia.  Sergeant  Brainard  is  almost  or 
(juite  over  his  snow-blintlness.  We  found  the  lime-juice  j)emmican  very  unsatisfactory  and  eat  it  only  with 
great  reluctance.  Cape  Britannia  very  distinct ;  due,  ])robably,  to  the  remarkable  refraction  of  the  almos- 
j)here.  Beaumont  Island  pre- ented  the  appearance  of  an  island  on  top  of  another,  the  first  inverted.  At 
4.15  a.  m.  turned  in. 

Ai'vanced  6  miles  in  3  hours  and  34  minutes.     Traveled  18  miles  in  7  hours  and  43  minutes. 

Sixteenth  march,  arrived  opposite  Cape  Mav. 

At  1.30  p.  m.  cook  (myself)  arose,  English  beef  for  breakfast;  2.45  breakfast  ready;  the  cooking 
occupied  i  hour  and  10  minutes.  Used  more  by  half  than  the  ration  of  alcohol.  At  3.20  thermometer, 
29.5°  [  —  1.4°  C.];  barometer,  2i;.46  [748.27"""].  Slight  breeze  from  SW. ;  sky  clear;  at  4.25  p.  in- 
started  from  camp  with  e\cr)Uiing;  4.43  to  5.04  p.  m.  stop|)ed  to  double  up  after  repeated  "stalls";  6.18  to 
6.30  stopped  to  rest.  Sent  Brainard  back  to  await  return  of  sledge.  At  7. 11  to  7.27  stopped  at  an  old  floe- 
berg  and,  tak  ng  off  load,  sent  sledge  back  for  remainder.  Character  of  the  ice  better,  so  that  I  determined 
to  try  hauling  everything  ac  once.  The  floes  in  sight  very  large,  broken  at  long  intervals  with  ranges  of  low 
hummocks,  iscl.»ted  mounds  scattered  here  and  there,  all  covered  with  snow.  The  floes  in  places  are  slightly 
undulating;  at  7.48  p.m.,  thermometer,  —  1 '[ —  18.3''  C.];  barometer,  29.375  [746.1 1"""].  In  sun  ten  minutes 
later,  thermometer,  7.5  [  —  13.6  C.].     Light  wind  from   NK. ;   weather  clear.     At  9.40  p.  m.  thermometer, 

—  i°[— 18.3°  C.];  barometer,  29.32   [744.71' ].     Very  slijjht  breeze ;  a  little  overcast;  at  10  p.  m.  sledge 

returned  with  rest  of  load ;  i}4  hours  in  coming,  and  twenty-iwo  minutes  afterwards  we  started  with  every- 
thing. Proceeded  thus  till  11.23,  when  it  was  necessary  to  throw  off  h.iir  the  lo.id.  Left  Brainard  behind 
with  it. 

Afar  2. — At  i  a.  m.  reached  an  immense  unbroken  floe  opposite  Cape  May.  At  2.51  a.  m.  reached 
line  of  low,  hummocky  ice  extending  across  my  route,  and  at  3.13  Christiansen,  having  assisted  me  in  pitching 
the  tent,  started  back,  I  during  his  absence  preparing  su])per.  At  6.35  a.  m.  ting-sledge  reached  camp  with 
second  half  of  load.  At  9  a.  m.  thermometer  in  tent,  25°  [—  3.9°  C.J;  barometer,  29.40  [746.75"""].  The 
traveling  mu  jh  better  than  yesterday;  weather  fine,  bright  and  calm.  We  are  hardly  more  than  five  miles 
from  Cape  May.  The  large  floe  last  referred  to  extended  north  as  far  as  I  could  see.  Sup])er  consisted 
of  tea,  lime-juice  peniinican,  hard  bread  and  a  stew  (?)  of  beans  and  cracker  dust;  the  a!lnw:u.ce  of  alcohol 
only  sufficed  to  melt  tiie  ice  and  varni  the  water;  t'  •;  stew  was  cold.     .Vi  j.15  n   m.  turned  i;i. 

Advanced  12  miles  in  6  hours  and  45  minutes.     Traveled  30  miles  in  14  hours  and  10  minutes. 

Skvkntkenth  march,  o\  Fi.ok.  west  o;'  Stephenson  Island. 

At  3  p.  m.  Brainard  got  v.p  to  cook  breakfast.  At  4  p.  m.  breakfast.  The  alcohol  not  sufficient;  tea 
only  warm  and  stew  cold,  the  t;a  gave  each  i^'/i  pints,  thermon.cter,  —4.4  [  — 2o.2°C.];  in  sun,  22° 
[  —  5.6°  C.J.  Minimum  since  Irst  read,  9'  [-12.8'  C.J.  Baromet  r,  29.35  [745.48"""].  Weather  calm  and 
clear.  Ditln't  sleep  much;  Brrinard  had  the  same  experience.  The  Eskimo  invariably  snores  tw.i  minutes 
after  composing  r.imself  for  rest.  At  5.35  p.  ni.  thermometer,  8.5°  [  — 13.1°  C] ;  barometer,  29.32  [744.7 1"""]. 
Ha/y  and  cahr.  Too';  a  number  of  compass  bearings  of  ])roni'nent  points,  very  carefully,  and  was  dis- 
appointed to  find  t'le  instrument  no  better  than  'lefore.  I  had  sjient  some  time  yestenhi)  in  trying  to  mend 
it.  There  seems  to  be  a  want  of  magnetism.  At  6.52  p.  m.  started  with  full  lor.'l  b'roin  8.09  to  8.20  p.  m. 
stopped  to  rest — 20  standing  hauls  since  starting.  Erom  8.57  to  9.10  p.m.  stopped  to  double  up.  Dogs 
very  tired.     Brainard  remained  behind  with  half-load,     from  10.16  to  10.38  stopped  to  rest.     Attempted  a 


fHfi  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXI'EDITION. 


201 


sketch  of  Stephenson  Island — an  island  to  all  a|)pearance  from  here.  Saw  wolf  and  fox  tracks  going  north 
some  distance  back.  Noticed  a  line  of  hummocky  ice  extending  from  lieaumont  Island  in  the  direction  of 
Cape  May.  Doubled  up  just  in  time,  the  traveling  since,  up  to  tiiis  sjiot,  being  soft  and  deep,  sometimes 
nearly  uj)  to  the  knees.  At  10.45  p.  m.  came  to  a  crack  in  the  i(  c  which  seemed  to  follow  the  line  of  huni- 
mocky  ice  referred  to.  This  crack  when  first  met  was  the  length  of  a  tent  pole  in  width,  and  full  of  free  water 
and  sludge  about  2  feet  [Oio"""|,  as  I  remember,  below  the  level  of  the  edge  of  the  it  e.  Following  it  south 
a  few  hundred  feet  we  found  two  or  three  cracks  to  cross,  but  only  2  feet  [6 10""" J,  or  a  little  more,  wide,  so 
there  was  no  difficulty  in  crossing.  This  place  was  at  the  intersection  (approx.)  of  a  line  from  Ca])e  Britannia 
to  Cape  Bryant  witii  another  between  Cape  May  and  Beaumont  Island.  At  1 1.05,  this  being  a  good  oppor- 
tunity to  get  the  depth,  I  sent  Christiansen  back  for  Sergeant  Brainard  and  the  load,  the  lead  and  line  not 
being  with  nie. 

May  3. — .At  1.07  a.  m.  dog-team  back  again.  The  dogs  always  travel  much  faster  going  back  or 
forward  over  a  trail.  Selecting  a  good  spot  I  gave  Sergeant  Br.iinartl  the  line;  it  ran  out  its  full  length  with- 
out touching  bottom.  I  then  attached,  in  succession,  four  coils  of  seal  thong,  a  long  piece  of  rope,  andi 
finally,  Christiansen's  whip — all  with  the  same  result,  no  bottom.  Having  nothing  now  left  but  the  traces  of 
the  dogs  we  began  drawing  the  line  back,  while  considering  if  these  should  be  risked.  I  hatl  attempted  to 
measure:  it  exactly  by  arm-lengths  as  it  went  df>wn,  but  found  this  inconvenient,  and  decided  to  wait  till  we 
got  it  all  out.  We  drew  out  the  whip  and  p:.  t  of  the  rope,  when  the  latter  suddenly  parted,  and,  of  course, 
the  rest  was  lost.  The  rope  was  about  one-half  inch  [13"""!  in  diameter,  and  would  hari'ly  bi.-  ijujugiit  the 
first  part  of  the  line  to  give  way.  The  approximate  length  of  line  below  surface  is  as  follows;  Rope,  in- 
cluding whip,  148  feet  [4S"'J;  4  coils  thong,  240  feet  [73"'];  4  ])ieces  twine — each  108  feet  [33'"]  =  432  feet 
[132'"];  total,  820  feet  [250'"].  Weight  of  lead,  6  pounds.  Thus,  besides  the  loss  of  the  line,  all  further 
attempts  at  sounding  were  prevented. 

At  2  a.  m.  proceeded  en  route  with  half-load.  In  the  course  of  one-ipiarter  hour  crossed  a  narrow  line 
or  belt  of  low  hummocks  seemingly  parallel  to  that  by  the  ice  crack.  After  this  was  an  immense  level  iloe 
which  extended  to  the  right  and  lef.  and  ahead  as  far  as  I  could  see;  it  was  ditlicult  to  see  the  smallest 
break  or  unevenness  in  its  great  expanse.  At  3  a.  m.  met  a  little  mound  of  snow-ice  which,  as  it  saved  the 
melting  of  snow  for  water,  I  camped  alongside  of,  and  twenty  minutes  afterwards  Christiansen  started  back  tcj 
Sergeant  Brainard  and  rest  of  load.  At  4.46  a.  m.  dog-sledge  returned.  At  7.25  a.  m.  thermometer  (in 
tent),  36.5°  [2.5"  C.];  outside,  26.5"  [—3.1°  C.].  Barometer,  29.43  [747.51"""].  Very  clear,  with  slight  breeze 
from  south. 

Advanced  8  miles  in  4  hours  and  7  minutes;  traveled  20  miles  in  9  hours  and  54  minutes. 

ElGHTEENlH    MARCH,  ON    Fl.flE    SOUTHWEST   OF    CapE    BRITANNIA. 

At  4.15  p.  m.  the  usual  trouble  with  the  alcohol;  used  a  little  extra.  Have  changed  the  order  of  lime- 
juice  pemmican  and  meat,  and  will  have  the  latter  after  getting  into  camp  (supper),  the  former  at  breakfast 
hereafter. 

Bearings  from  this  camp:  Beaumont  Island,  SSE.;  Cape  Britannia,  SE.  by  S. ;  Stephenson  Island, 
S\V.  by  S.;  Cape  May,  NW.  by  W.  (all  magnetic).  At  5.30  j).  m.  thermometer,  19^  [-7-2'  C.];  barometer, 
29.47  [748.52"'"'];  moderate  wind  from  west.     At  6.10  p.  m.  started  with  full  load. 

From  7.30  to  7.42  p.  m.  stopjjed  to  rest;  snow  very  soft.  F'lom  8.28  to  8.35  p.  m.  stopped  again  at  a 
line  of  very  low  hummocky  ice,  which  sweeps  in  a  curve  to  the  northwest  on  one  hand,  and  on  the  other  to 
the  southwest,  toward  Cape  May.  The  floe  we  now  saw  before  us  was  an  unbroken  expanse  of  level  snow, 
and  seemed  to  continue  thus  and  occupy  the  whole  sp.ice  between  Beaumont  and  Stephenson  Islands  and 
Cape  Britannia,  reminding  me  very  much  of  the  plains  of  the  West.  Crust  quite  hard  and  firm,  enabling 
us  to  carry  everything  at  once.  At  9.35  p.  m.  intersection  of  route  with  a  line  between  Beaumont  and 
Stephenson  Islands.  From  10.07  1°  10.28  p.  m.  stopped  to  rest;  snow  soft.  From  11.05  to  11.20  stojjped 
to  throw  off  half-load.     Sergeant  Brainard  remained  behind. 

i\fay  4. — At  2.55  a.  m.  hoped  to  reach  Cape  Britannia  this  march,  but  it  coming  on  to  snow,  and  the 
dogs  being  very  tired,  I  stopped  and  pitched  tent.     At  3.09  a.  m.  Christiansen  started  back  with  empty  sledge. 

At  4.30  a.  ni.  thermometer,  8.5'  I— i3.i"C.];  b.arometer,  29.57  [751.06'""'];  overcast  with  light  snow. 
At  7  a.  m.  thermometer,  27°  [  — 2.8°C.];  barometer,  29.62  [752.33"'"']. 


; 


i 


202 


THE  LADV  FKANKLIN  HAY  KXPEDITION. 


.f 


,i! 


!  :;i 


!       i 


At  7.10  liRliteil  lam|),  seeing  sleilge  approat  hing.  At  8  a.  m.  sledge  arrived.  Alcohol  insufficient  again, 
and  again  encroached  on  the  small  surjilus  brought  along  to  make  up  for  leakage  or  accidents.  At  9.55 
a,  m.  turned  in. 

Advanced  14  miles  in  7  hours  and  51  minutes;  traveled  30  miles  in  13  hours  and  50  minutes. 

NlNETEKNTH    MARCH,  REACHED    (-'AF'E    UrITANNIA. 

At  3  ji.  m.  called  IJrainard  to  cook.  At  4.45  p.  m.  breakfast;  temperature  in  tent,  40°  [4.4°  C.].  At 
5.45  p.  m.  thermometer  (column  separated);  barometer,  29. 46  (748.27"""];  very  calm  and  j)erfectly  clear. 
The  dogs,  during  our  sleep,  got  at  the  pemmican,  which  was  buried  as  usual  under  the  sledge,  and  ate  two 
and  one-half  days'  allowance.  At  6.20  p.  m.  started  with  everything.  'I'he  traveling  very  good  over  hard 
snow  and  near  shore  over  small,  undulating  surface  of  ice. 

At  7.53  p.  ni.  reached  Cape  Britannia.  'I'he  line  of  demarcation  between  the  floe  and  the  shore  ice 
was  very  slight,  and  only  indicated  by  one  or  more  indistinct  cracks.  After  pitching  the  tent  on  the  ice-foot 
we  proceeded  to  build  a  cairn  20  or  30  yards  [18"'  or  27"']  above,  on  the  side  of  a  little  ravine,  just  below  the 
clitf.  The  cairn  is  about  7  feet  [2"'|  high.  In  it  I  depositeil  a  record  of  my  journey  to  date,  also  five  days' 
rations,  three  days'  dog-fooil,  the  e.\tra  sledge-runner,  shelter  tent,  little  lamp,  and  the  two  pairs  of  snow-shoes. 
The  last  three  articles  were  brought  along  in  case  the  snow  east  of  Cape  Bryant  was  too  deep  to  allow  the 
dog-sledge  to  travel  at  all,  &c.  After  ascending  the  cape  I  judgedVe  could  get  along  without  them.  After 
this  I  took  an  observation  for  latitude.  'J'his  anil  subsequent  observations  for  latitude  are  to  be  found 
annexed.  Christiansen  came  in  with  a  ptarmigan;  it  had  commenced  to  change  its  plumage;  some  of  the 
feathers  were  black. 


Co.-ist  of  fiord  east  of  Strphensnii  Id. 

May  5. — I  a.  m.,  thermometer,  2°  [—16.7°  C.];  barometer,  29.52  f749.79"""] ;  calm. 

Sergeant  Brainard  and  1  started  for  the  top  of  the  cape,  or  mountain  it  might  properly  be  called.  We 
followed  the  water-course  referred  to ;  the  ascent  was  quite  steep,  with  several  intermediate  crests  or  ridges, 
each  seeming  from  below  to  be  the  top.  At  2.31;  a.  m.  reached  the  summit.  At  2.43  a.  m.  thermometer, 
14.5  [  —  9.7°  C. I ;  barometer,  29.32  1744.71"""].  Windy.  We  were  apparently  on  an  island ;  its  most  north- 
ern limit  ended  in  a  bold  headland  a  half-dozen  miles  distant.  Away  to  the  northeast,  or  a  little  south  of 
it,  was  a  l)old  headland,  some  15  or  20  miles  oflf,  the  termination  of  a  promontory  or  island  stretching  to  the 
north.  Between  it  and  me  were  the  projecting  capes  of  three  similar  bodies  of  land  farther  to  the  right,  all 
separated  by  great  fiords  stretching  to  the  south  and  overlapping  one  another  so  that  little  could  be  seen  to 
the  south  of  them  but  a  confused  mass  of  snow-covered  peaks.  Glancing  round  towards  the  north  and 
west  the  eye  rested  on  nothing  but  the  ice-pack  till  Beaumont  Island  was  reached.  After  that  the  mount- 
ains near  Cape  Bryant.  Stephenson  Island  is  evidently  an  island ;  for  the  opening  of  a  fiord  that  separates  it 
from  Cape  May  can  be  seen,  and  on  its  east  is  an  immense  fiord  running  to  the  south.  The  two  fiords  are 
(to  all  ai)pearances)  connected.  No  land  visible  at  the  head  of  the  large  one.  To  the  east  of  this  the  coast 
trends  otif  towards  the  southeast,  forming,  with  the  south  side  of  the  Britannia  coast,  an  immense  funnel  ending 
in  a  fiord.  All  to  the  south  is  an  indistinct  mass  of  snow-covered  mountains.  We  built  a  cairn  on  the 
summit  and  deposited  a  record  ; 'cairn  about  G^^  feet  [2'"]  high.  Height  of  cape,  as  indicated  by  barometer, 
1,950  feet  [594"'|.  Ciot  back  to  camp  at  4.50  a.  m.  At  5  a.  m.  thermometer,  12°  [  —  11.1°  C.) ;  barometer, 
29.48  [744.18"""].     Saw  several  hare  tracks  on  side  of  the  mountain.    At  5.50  a.  m.  turned  in. 

Advanced  4  miles  in  i  hour,  and  30  minutes.    Traveled  4  miles  in  i  hour,  and  30  minutes. 

Twenty-ninth  march,  from  Cape  Britannia  towards  Black  Cape. 

Bearing  of  bluff  farthest  ahead  by  little  compass,  E.  (mag.). 

At  7.05  p.  m.,  breakfast  finished  and  everything  ready,  we  started,  traveling  at  first  over  ice-foot  of  clear 
ice,  afterwards  on  level  floe  near  shore,  the  undulating  "  blue-top  "  ice  of  which  was  exposed  in  many  places. 
The  traveling  excellent ;  everything  at  one  load.     .Saw  some  fox  and  hare  tracks.    At  9.08  p.  m.  reached  the 


THE  LADY  FltANKLIN  15AY  EXPEDITION. 


203 


cape  farthest  to  the  north  [Cape  Frederick],  ami  <  amc  in  sight  of  tlic  distant  licadland  seen  from  sununit. 
Stopped  to  relash  runners.  We  traveled  at  a  trot  almost  all  the  way  here,  at  least  3^  miles  an  hour. 
During  the  delay  of  the  sledge  I  went  out  on  the  tloe  to  the  north  to  take  hearing  of  the  l.eailland  just 
referred  to,  hut  ten  (10)  observations  with  the  ])risinatic  comiiass  diflered  so  widely  that  I  derided  to  depend 
altogether  on  my  pocket  compass.  The  hearing  hy  this  was  SI'',,  (mag.).  While  out  here  I  saw  the  tide- 
crack,  evidently  a  continuation  of  the  "Wi:  crossed  west  of  Cape  Itritannia.  My  attention  was  first  .ittrac  ted 
to  it  on  stopping  the  sledge,  when  we  ail  heard  a  low,  ilroning  sound  as  of  moving  ice.  No  ice  in  motion 
was  seen,  however.  M  10  p.  m.  sledge  mended,  and  we  startetl  again.  In  rounding  the  (ape  we  had  excel- 
lent traveling  on  last  year's  ice ;  it  <  onlinued  some  distam  e  htjond  and  reachec!  to  the  north  several  hundred 
yards  from  shore.  From  \<jrth  ('a|)e  |('a[)e  I'Veileric  k]  the  tide-crack  continued  towards  lllack  Ca|)e,  (  urg- 
ing to  the  right  iii  roiil<\  It  was  |)lainly  marked  liy  a  line  of  heapedui),  hummocky  ice,  and  hy  heing  the 
line  separating  the  smooth  anti  generallv  level  floes  inside  from  the  rcnigh  pack  without.  1  took  a  course  a 
little  to  the  right  of  Black  Cape,  towards  Ridge  |  I'.lison  '  Island,  and  soon  finmd  m\self  on  an  old  tloe  with 
a  gently  undulating  surface.  'I'lie  crust  at  first  was  (piili  hard  hut  afterwards  became  soft,  and  progress  slow. 
All  inside  the  ice-crack  seems  one  unbroken  tloe  of  smooth,  livel  snow  assuming  an  imdulating  surface  in 
most  places  near  the  ice-crack,  caused  by  ranges  of  hummocky  ice  covered  with  snow-drift. 


i 


I 


Coast  alicad  from  c;imp  bcyniul  UritaimLu. 


May  6.— At  10.12  a.  m.  camped  among  the  hummocks.  At  12.50  thermometer,  7.5°  [  —  13.6°  C.]; 
barometer,  29.37  [74S-9^"""1'  ^'^dm  and  clear.  Heard  the  noise  as  of  moving  ice  again.  Clinstiansen  went 
out  to  tide-crack,  where  there  was  a  large  j)cjol  of  open  water,  to  look  for  seal ;  he  s.iw  none.  "  Ritenhenk  " 
ate  up  the  ptarmigan  shot  at  Cape  Britannia,  ('ape  Britannia  is  evidently  on  an  island.  What  appeared 
to  be  a  i)oint  indicating  a  c:hannel  on  its  south  side  was  cpiite  ])l,iin.  The  fiord  at  whose  mouth  we  camped 
ran  to  the  southeast  or  south  an  immense  distance ;  no  land  visible  at  its  head.  Jn  this  dii' <  tion,  but 
hardly  more  than  10  miles  off,  a  fiord  ran — or  seemed  to — in  a  direction  generally  jarallel  to  our  course  and 
to  make  islands  of  the  land  on  the  right  of  our  course.  At  2  a.  m.  supper,  and  after  an  observation  all 
turned  in  at  3.20  a.  m. 

Advanced  11  miles  in  4  hours,  13  minutes.     Traveled  5  hours,  5  minutes. 


?'? 


Twenty-first  m.arcii. 


TO  RAiiiiiT  Point  [Cai'f.  Bkn^t.] 


At  9.45  a.  m.  got  up  and  went  out  to  take  observation.     At  11.30  breakfast ;  morning  very  bright  and 

clear;  some  wind.     At  1.20  p.  m.  thermometer,  22.5°  [  —  5.3°  C.J;  barometer,  29.37  [745.98 J.     Light 

wind  from  south.  At  1.40  p.  m.  started  with  everything.  At  2.18  p.  m.  saw  some  jiools  of  open  watc?r  at 
tide-crack,  which  we  now  found  ourselves  cpiite  near.  Stopjied  ten  minutes.  The  crack  is  here  over  50 
yards  [46'"]  wide  and  covered  with  new  ice,  except  where  broken  by  these  jiools  or  lanes.  From  3.38  to 
3.41  stopj)ecl  opi\)Site  north  end  of  Ridge  [Klison|  Island.  Its  west  side  extends  NW.  and  SK.  From  4.54 
to  5.09  ]).  m.  .stopped  to  make  hasty  sketch.  At  6.10  ]>.  m.,  opposite  Snow  jMarkham]  Island;  a  narrow 
fiord  seems  to  separate  this  island  (?)  from  the  land  to  the  east  of  it.  F'rom  7.15  to  7.24  ]>.  m.  reached 
shore  under  Blue  Cape.  Saw  Ibx  tracks,  liearing  of  coast  to  the  south  WSW.  (mag.),  and  of  Black  Cape 
ENF>.  (mag.).  Continued  on  towards  latter,  and  in.stead  of  having  a  short  distance,  and  that  along  coast 
another  bay  or  fiord  was  found  to  intervene.  Blue  Cape  is  evidently  ])art  of  an  island.  From  8.35  to  9.03 
J).  111.  reached  IJlack  Cape  and  stopped.  A  great  many  tracks  of  foxes,  hares,  and  lemmings  along  here. 
We  also  discovered  some  old  marks  on  the  ice-foot,  which  Christiansen  said  were  "narsook"  (bear).  Ice 
very  much  piled  up,  indicating  great  pressure.  Ahead,  and  slightly  to  the  north  of  a  line  joining  North  Cape 
[Cajie  Frederick]  and  Black  Cape,  stands  out  another  dark  headland  (Distant  Cape).  Intermediate,  but 
more  to  the  ritjht,  are  several  channels  or  fiords.  Towards  the  first  of  these  we  traveled  on  an  ice-foot,  first 
through  deep,  soft  snow  for  some  distance,  but  afterwards  on  almost  clear  ice.  Following  the  .slight  inden- 
tation of  the  coast  we  passed  a  dark,  rocky  bluff,  and  at  10  p.  m.  reached  the  first  opening,  which,  to  all 


I 


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1:04 


♦rUli  LADY  I'UANKLIlJ  IlAY  EXI'EUlTIOiJ. 


aiipcaraiiccs,  is  ;i  bay  about  as  ilfc|)  as  wide.  At  1 1.20  p.  m.  reached  east  side  of  l)ay,  resting  live  inimites 
fn  loiile;  travelinjr  fair,  and  at  11.33  p.  in.  reached  Rabl)it  Cape  [Cape  Henet),  where  we  camped.  Had 
intended  canipiiig  at  Distant  Cape,  l)ut  it  still  looked  as  distant  as  ever,  or  rather  as  near,  but  no  nearer,  and 
was  sei)arated  from  us  by  a  wide  tiord.  Shortly  after  getting  to  camp  Christiansen  v.ounded  a  hare,  but  it 
re(|uire(l  a  vigorous  chase  of  all  hands  to  cat<h  him;  there  was  no  more  ammunition  at  hand. 

J/rfi'  7. — At  2.10  a.  m.  sujjper  finished;  2.515  a.  ni.  thermometer,  22.5 '  [  —  5.3"  C.|;  barometer,  29.30 
[744.21"""];  clear  and  fair;  slight  wind  from  the  west.     At  3  a.  m.  turned  in. 

Ailvanced  17  miles  in  8  hours,  43  minutes.     Traveled  9  hours,  53  minutes. 

'rWENTY-SECOND    MARCH,  RaMHIT    ToINT   [CaPE    HkN^.I  )   TO    I.OW    I'OINT. 

At  6  p.  m.  cook  arose.  Sergeant  liiainard,  who  ilid  all  the  cooking  after  leaving  Ca|)e  Britannia;  Chris- 
tiansen and  I  helping  in  cho])ping  ice,  \c.;  7  p.  m.,  breakfVist.  I  had  intended  getting  up  at  9  for  meridian 
observation,  but  it  commenced  snowing  during  our  sleep.  Determined  there  to  remain  in  camp  and  institute 
a  habit  of  starting  just  before  midnight  (Washington  time)  in  order  that  the  observations  would  not  inter- 
fere with  sleep.  At  9  ]>.  m.  thermometer,  iO°  [—8.9°  C.J;  barometer,  29.28  [743.7o"""[;  minimum  since 
last  oi)servation  of  thermometer,  10°  [— i  j.2°  C.j;  snowing;  no  wind;  1045  p.m.,  thermometer,  15.5°; 
[  —  9.2  C.];  barometer,  29.28  1 743.70"""];  calm;  still  snowing.  Built  a  cairn  near  shore;  left  in  it  three  days' 
rations  and  dog-food  (scarce  one  day's  alcohol).  .Saw  two  ptarmigan,  and  hit  one  of  them  but  it  escaped. 
At  1 1. 15  p.  m.  broke  camp.  In  a  few  minutes  we  found  ourselves  beyond  the  hummocky  ice  which  seems 
heajied  \\\t  against  all  these  capes,  and  on  the  level  surface  of  another  bay  or  channel  [Mascart  InletJ,  which 
of  the  two  could  not  be  determined  on  account  of  the  falling  snow. 

Aftiy  8. — .\t  12.15  '"  '-•-5  '1-  '"•  stoi>[)e(l  alongside  of  a  solitary  hummock  to  rest;  snow  soft  and  deep 
and  traveling  laborious.  This  hummock  or  berg  looks  as  though  it  had  been  there  for  ages.  Between  1.30 
and  1.45  a.  m.  reached  farther  shore  some  ways  up  the  tiord.  Snow  deeper  than  before,  and  near  shore,  under 
the  ice,  were  cracks  in  which  I  would  every  now  and  then  plunge,  thigh  deep;  the  worst  traveling  experienced 
.since  leaving  the  Ikevoort  Peninsula.  I  Witlked  ahead  of  the  sledge  to  encourage  the  dogs.  We  were  disap- 
pointed in  finding  a  route  inside  the  hummocky  ice  near  shore,  and  had  to  keep  on  the  outside  for  some 
distance,  when,  getting  over  this  barrier  with  a  little  more  than  the  usupI  amount  of  pulling  and  pushing,  a 
practicable  route  was  found  inside,  though  the  snow  was  deep  and  there  were  several  bad  places,  steep 
grades,  I'vrc.  We  rounded  the  cliffs  at  3.10  a.  m.,  and  saw  Distant  Cape  still  ahead  and  another  inlet  inter- 
''ening.  The  snow  on  this  was  quite  ;.;ood.  I  presume  this  to  be  a  bay,  though,  like  all  these  bodies  of 
water,  there  were  so  many  overlapping  points  at  its  southern  extremity  that  I  couldn't  be  sure.  At  3.52 
a.  m.  reached  farther  side  and  traveled  along  a  good  ice-foot  (juite  rapidly,  and  at  4.06  a.  m.  reached  Distant 
Cape,  a  grand  headland  of  dark  looking  rocks  forming  a  huge  cliff.  Fat  in  advance  in  the  same  general 
direction,  loomed  up  another  headland,  for  which  we  started  at  4.33  a.  m.  At  4.25  thermometer,  17,5° 
[  — 8.i''C.];  barometer,  29.32  [744.71"""].  Snowing  lightly;  sun  dimly  visible  through  clouds.  Immedi- 
ately before  us  was  another  inlet,  and  at  the  extremity  of  its  eastern  coast  a  dark  cliff  (apparently  a  pro- 
montory), bearing  S.  (mag.).  Just  to  its  left  was  a  low  point  of  land,  very  obscure  on  account  of  the  snow; 
5.47-56  a.  m.  readied  farther  shore  near  the  clift  referred  to.  Snow  so  thick  as  to  blot  out  the  land  left 
behind.  The  inlet  just  crossed  sirmnl  a  bay,  as  well  as  I  could  judge  from  what  I  saw  of  its  shores.  The 
surface  was  hard,  much  of  it  what  we  call  "blue-top"  floe,  and  afforded  good  traveling.  "Ask-him,"  one 
of  the  dogs,  seemed  (|uite  lame. 

At  6.17  a.  m.  reached  a  low,  shelving  point  of  land  (Low  Point).  The  traveling  from  the  cliffs  here, 
which  we  thought  would  be  good, proved  just  the  reverse;  deep  snow  all  the  way, interrupted  only  by  stones 
on  which  the  sledge-runners  grated  ;  everything  obscured  or  hid  by  the  snow.  Could  see  no  land  beyond 
the  fiord  which  we  had  now  reached,  and,  being  very  tired,  made  an  early  camp.  Shortly  aft'T  this 
Urainard  sudilenly  exclaimed  that  he  saw  an  island.  I  went  up  on  the  hill  near  by  and  saw  to  the  imuh- 
east,  apparently  off  the  farther  side  of  the  fiord,  a  detached  cliff  (seemingly  detached).  My  little  pocket 
compass  gave  its  direction  S.  60°  L.  (mag.),  estimating  the  degrees.  Distant  Cape  NNW.  (mag.).  At 
8.30  a.  m.  thermometer,  28°  [  —  2.2  C.j.  Barometer,  29.42  [747.25"""].  Supper  just  finished.  We  ate  half 
the  rabbit  in  a  siac;  sujjposed  to  be  cooked,  but  quite  cold  and  raw.     It  was  very  palatable,  however. 


THE  LADY  FUANKIilN  IJAV  EXI'KDITION. 


205 


nrainanl  and  I  very  tired  after  tliis  iiiarih;  \vc  I  oth  remarked  a  freiiuciit  (eelinjj  of  lassitude  and  weakness  ot 
late,  due  proliaMy  to  tiie  warn>  weather.     At  n.-jo  a.  in.  turned  in,  after  takin^;  an  ohservatiim  for  laiitude. 
Advanced  12  miles  in  f>  luuirs,  1  minute.     Traveled  7  hours,  2  minutes. 

'I'wKMV-imui)  .MAiu  II,   Low   I'oiNr   10   I'm  KKi    I!av. 

At  6,30  p.  in,  cook  arose  (Sergeant  Brainard).  At  6  p.  m.  thermometer,  10  |  — i,!.j  t'.|.  Itarometer, 
29.40  I  746.75"""].     Weather  overcast,  with  wind  from  the  west  and  slight  snow.     Sum  dimly  visible. 

At  7. 25  J),  m.  breakfast  of  doj;  iieininiian,  after  which  I  took  an  observation,  or  rather  attempted  to, 
At  10.50  p.  m.  cloudy,  with  wind  from  the  west  and  drifting  snow.     At  1 1,20  p.  m.  left  canij). 

A/(ir  9, — The  traveling  over  the  inlet  [Jewell  Inlet]  was  i|uite  good,  there  being  nuK  h  hanl  snow  aixl 
blue-top  ice.  Delayed  eight  minutes  about  the  middle  of  the  bay  to  catch  a  lei'Miiing  that  was  running 
along  on  the  surface  of  the  snow,  .At  1.53  a.  m.  reached  farther  side  of  bay — if  bay  it  is — and  at  2.15  a.  m, 
reached  Cape  .Surprise  [Ramsey];  a  little  beyond  we  stopped  twenty-four  minutes  for  lunch  of  lime-juice 
pemmican.  The  land  trended  more  and  more  to  the  south  again,  aixl  on  farther  side  was  another  jioint 
[Cape  Wijkander]  bearing  SK,  by  S.  (mag.),  ajipearing  from  present  position  like  a  (lome-capi)ed  island. 
Intermediate  was  another  bay  or  channel,  which  of  the  two  I  could  not  determine  on  accdunt  of  the  snow. 
The  traveling  and  its  surfiice  was  fair.  At  4.15  a,  ni.  reached  farther  side  under  a  line  of  high,  graml  c  liffs. 
Was  delighted  to  find  an  ice-foot  of  smooth  ice,  clear  of  snow,  on  which  the  dogs  drew  the  sledge  at  a  trot. 

At  4.50  a.  m.  stopi)ed  to  take  observation,  but  after  spending  some  time  in  fruitless  ende.'.vor,  011  ac- 
count of  the  heavy  wind  and  drifting  snow,  I  gave  it  up  in  disgust.  The  coast  we  were  following  seemed  to 
trend  so  much  to  the  south  that  I  feared  we  were  going  up  some  fiord,  and  so  resolved  to  camp  and  await 
the  t:learing  up  of  the  weather — in  the  mi  an  time  getting  a  meritlian  observation  if  possible.  Walkeil  ahead, 
opposite  a  break  in  the  cliffs  which  lets  in  a  little  bay,  to  find  a  jilace  where  the  tent  would  stand. 

At  6  a.  ni.  the  sledge  came  up  antl  we  camped.  At  8.30  a.  m.  su|)per  finished.  We  traveled  all  day. 
(or  night  rather)  in  the  midst  of  a  high,  we.->t  wind  and  driving  snow-storm  e.xtremely  disagreeable.  At  9 
a.  m.  thermometer,  12"  [—11.1'  CJ.  Uaromet'^r,  29.46  [748.27"'"'].  High  wind,  with  snow,  bun  invisible 
altogether. 

Advanced  17  miles  in  5^4  hours;  traveled  6  hours,  40  minutes. 

TWENTV-FOURrH    MARCH,  PoCKKT    H    V    Tl)    SHOK    [  MaRV  MlRRAV]   IsI.ANn, 

At  8.50  p.  m.  attempted  an  obscrvai'  'V  but  tl-.i,  sun  looked  like  a  grease  spot,  and  I  succeeded  poorly. 
Some  time  was  thus  occupied,  and  afterwards  in  breakfast,  straining  mercury,  iVc.  .Morning  c!..  iy;  the 
wind  greatly  subsided.  "  Ritenbenk  "  stole  rabbit  out  of  tent  while  we  were  asleep  (the  remaining  half),  but 
I  woke  up  just  in  time  to  get  out  doors  and  save  enough  for  a  meal.  He  was  lying  down,  eating  it  very  delib- 
erately, the  other  dogs  looking  on. 

May  10. — At  1.05  a.  m.  left  camp,  and,  reaching  farther  side  of  Little  Bay,  followed  along  untler  the 
cliffs  on  a  very  good  ice-foot;  from  1.55  to  2.20  a.  m.  stopped  and  built  a  small  cairn  on  a  low,  flat  piece 
of  ground  between  ice-foot  and  a  line  of  hills  some  distance  back.     Traveling  very  good,  but  we;'.ther  bad.  ' 
The  coast-line  was  pretty  straight,  but  had  a  general  trend  to  the  right  (south). 

From  3.25  to  4.18  stopped  and  took  observation,  the  sun  being  dimly  visible.  Ahead,  some  miles 
along  the  coast,  was  another  cajie  [Mohn],  sloping  back  to  a  mountain  [.Mt.  H.  S.  Gardiner].  To  the 
left  obli(iue,  dimly  visible,  was  a  cliff  bearing  southeast  (mag.).  Nothing  could  be  seen  between  the  two, 
and,  shortly  after  starting,  the  clift"  ahead  disappeared  and  I  had  to  resort  to  the  compass — no  unusual  thing 
in  crossing  these  fiords,  but  annoying  as  one  is  never  certain  of  his  course.  However,  the  traveling  -vas 
gooil,  and  at  7.15  a.  m.  we  reached  the  cliff  [Cape  HoffmeyerJ  which  formed  the  entrance  to  the  fiord  |^De 
Long  Fiord],  bay,  or  channel  we  had  just  crossed.  From  7.20  to  8.06  a.  m.  stopped  for  a  lunch  of  pemmi- 
can ;  built  a  cairn  under  the  grand  line  of  cliffs,  and  proceeded  along  over  a  very  fine  ice-foot,  everything 
very  much  obscured  by  the  driving  snow.  From  8.47  to  8.55  a.  m.  sutldenly  saw  a  small  [Mary  Murray! 
i.sland  to  the  left  oblique,  bearing  SE.  ^mag.).  Ahead  the  line  of  cliffs  seemed  to  end  or  turn  at  a  vapc 
[Cape  Neumayer]  bearing  S.  (mag.).  There  was  no  riilge  of  ice  between  the  ice  foot  and  the  floe,  and 
leaving  the  latter  we  traveled  half-way  across  very  fast,  over  blue-top  ice,  with  a  strong  wind  from  the  west. 
From  9.15  to  9.45  a.  m.  saw  the  sun  very  indistinctly  through  the  clouds  and  stopped  for  observation, 
getting  down  in  lee  of  the  sledge.  Proceeding  again,  we  traveled  over  hard  snow.  The  island  had  dis- 
appeared from  sight,  but  presently  reappeared,  and  at  10.15  a.m.  we  reached  its  northwest  end.    The 


1- 


ilhi. 


1 


;1 


i  I 


200 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITION. 


island  [Mary  Murray |  i:;  a  narrow,  rocky  ridge,  projecting  a  few  lumdred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ice,  its 
lop  inai icssiblc  hut  in  a  k\v  ])laces.  Followed  down  farther  side  of  island,  but  co"l(l  see  no  land  in  any 
direction,  that  we  had  left  having  also  disappeared.  At  10.30  a.  ni.  reached  southeast  end  of  (Mary  Murray] 
island,  which  lay  like  a  sliip  at  anchor  with  res])ect  to  the  wind.  Here  we  were  much  ])rotected  from  the 
wind,  and  there  being  no  chance  of  proceeding  farther  we  pitched  tent  and  camped.  At  10.38  a.  ni.  lamp 
ligiitei!  for  supper;  at  12,  noon,  sujiper.  -Determined  to  lie  over  here  till  the  storm  moderateil,  fnuling  it 
very  severe  to  travel  in,  and  to  eat  at  as  long  intervals  as  possible  in  order  to  save  rations.  At  3.07  p.  m. 
went  to  bed. 

Advanced  22  miles  in  6  hours,  41  minutes;  traveled  9  hours,  25  minutes. 

^T    SlIOK    [mAKY    MUKRAY]    ISLAND. 

Afiif  II. — .\t  3.15  a.  m.  got  up.  Tiierniometer,  9"  [— i2.8''C.];  barometer,  29.42  I747.25"""]  (both 
in  tent).  \\'e:Ulier  still  stormy,  and  nothing  can  be  seen  nor  anything  done.  At  4.10  a.  m.  breakfast.  'J'her- 
'uometer,  10'  [—1 2.2''  C.\  ;  baiometcout  of  order.  Tl'.e  wind,  in  gusts,  first  on  one  side  and  then  the  other, 
threatened  to  blow  down  the  tent.     At  9.20  ;..  m.  thermometer,  6"  |  —  14,4°  C]  (in  tent). 

f^/irv  1 2. — At  2.45  a.  m.  still  blowing  and  snowing  without.  JSrainard  and  myself,  as  well  as  t'hristiansen, 
sufiered  a  great  deal  from  cold  feel,  something  unknown  since  early  in  April,  and  (piite  unaccountable.  It 
int(.'rfered  a  great  deal  with  our  slee[',  and  nothing  wo  could  do  seemed  to  help  matters  much  in  this  respect. 
At  3.55  a.  m.  breakfast  or  sui)per;  thirty-five  minutes  in  cookimr.  At  5  a.  m.  Christiansen  and  1  went  out  to 
feed  d;)gs.  I  saw  one  of  them  swallowing  a  lemming  as  I  went  out;  saw  land  to  the  east  an(l  northeast, 
an<'  a  very  higli  mountain  in  the  former  direction;  a  bold  cliff  [('a|)e  Christiansen]  to  the  north  of  it,  tern>i- 
naling  the  UhhI  in  that  direction,  bears  SIv  by  S.  (mag.).  Some  time  occupied  in  taking  an  observation  for 
latitude,  the  sun  being  dimly  visible,  aiitl  afterwards  in  filtering  mercury.  At  1.30  p.  m.  took  observation 
for  time,  the  veather  dealing  up.  Got  good  view  of  the  coast  to  the  northeast.  A  litth;  to  the  left  of  the 
first  cape  was  another  [Cape  Kane],  and  then  beyond  that  a  third  |Cape  Washington],  a  long  way  off  .seem- 
ingly, continuous  land  to  the  south  of  Shoe  |  Mary  Murray]  Island.  At  2.30  p.  m.  turned  in  ;  at  8.45  p.  m.  got 
up.  Intended  getting  up  at  6  and  starting  on,  but  we  oversle|)t  ourselves.  It  was  just  as  well,  for  the  sun 
again  disappearcil,  and  the  sto:in  seemed  to  have  returned  as  bad  as  ever.  At  9  ]).  m.  thermometer,  9" 
f—  12.8'  C.  I;  baroir.eter,  29.39  [746.49'' '"].     Lamp  lighted  for  "skollin;"*  cooking  occujiied  twenty  minutes. 

'rWECNTV-lli-lll    iMAKClI,    SH()|'.    [iMa'^V    MuKKAV]    IsI.AND   K)    I'^AKTllKSI'    [LocKWOOD    IsLANI)]. 

JAy  13. — At  12.30  a.  m.,  thermometer,  11"  [ — 1 1.7"  C.];  barometer,  29.30  [744.21"""];  northwest  wind 
and  snow,  but  the  ca|)e  ahead  [Cai)e  NeumayerJ  could  be  seen,  and  anything  preferable  to  cold  feet  endured 
for  sixty-two  hours.  At  1.45  a.  m.  started  from  camp  after  building  a  small  cairn  near  by.  The  cape  disap- 
])eared  from  view  shortly  after  starting,  but  the  traveling  was  very  goo<l  near  shore  over  blue-top  thje,  and 
at  3.45  a.  in.  the  ca|)e  was  reached.  Here,  and  along  the  line  of  clifis  beyond  which  it  terminates,  immense 
masses  of  bergs  anil  hummocks  were  j)ressed  so  close  to  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  that  it  was  necessary  to  get 
outside  on  tiie  lloe.  A  tortuous  way  was  found  to  the  to|)  of  this  icewall  anil  the  sledge  then  lowered  by 
means  of  the  traces  some  15  feet  j.ibout  5'"]  or  more.  For  some  distance  then  we  worked  our  way  slowly 
through  a  mass  of  rubble-icc,  with  the  constant  use  of  the  a.\,  and  crossed  two  or  three  small  lanes  of  water,  and 
then  tra\eled  for  a  few  lumdred  yards  on  a  clear  lloe  of  last  year's  ice,  when,  at  5.30  to  6.15  we  were  stopped 
by  another  lead  or  lane  of  water.  The  sun  being  discernible  I  too!;  an  observation,  and  at  same  time  sent 
Christiansen  to  find  a  crossing.  One  being  found  we  continued  over  a  Hoc  of  last  year's  ice  at  (|uite  a  rapiil 
gait  on  a  line  generally  parallel  to  tlie  cliffs  on  our  right,  which  ran,  1  judged,  a  little  south  of  east.  Pres- 
ently, the  weather  clearing,  a  large,  wide  inlet  [W'eyprecht  Inlet],  with  the  cliffs  and  mountains  on  its  farther 
side,  opened  up  to  view,  forming  a  grand  iianorama — the  most  remarkable  yet  observed.  To  the  right  oblitpie 
.he  line  of  cliffs  ended  in  a  cape  from  which  the  coast  turned  abruiitly  to  the  south  and  then  ran  in  a  curve 
towards  the  southeast,  forming  the  western  shore  of  the  inlut.  Directly  ahead  was  a  pyramid-siiaped  island 
jiSrainard  lsland|  of  considerable  altitude,  which  seemed  to  touch  the  line  of  ditVs  [Lockwood  Island]  back 
of  it.  This  line  of  clifls  ran  almost  north  and  south,  ending  in  a  ca|ie  to  the  northeast  of  our  position,  and 
on  the  other  hand  gradually  curving  bai  k  to  the  southeast  and  forming  the  eastern  side  of  the  inlet  [W'ey- 
precht  Inlet|.     A  little  to  the  right  of  the  islanil  [lirainard  Island]  referred  to  is  another,  apparently,  of  a 

*  Tcnii  used  liy  iJuiiisli  Mskiiiio  fur  fowl. — A.  \V.  O, 


THVi  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  KXI'EDJTION. 


207 


cone  shape.  The  land  to  their  rear  towered  up  to  an  enormous  height  and  formed  a  mountain  certainly  not 
less  tlian  4,000  feet  [1,219'"],  eompletely  dwarfing  the  island  and  thfts  l)eneaili.  The  tide-crack,  wliich  we 
were  now  on  the  outside  of,  ran  in  a  great  curve  lietwcen  tlie  two  <apcs,  forming  the  extremity  of  the  inlet. 
It  was  marked  i)y  a  wall  of  ice  hummocks.  Inside  was  a  level  surface  of  snow  covering  a  floe  which  ex- 
tended from  shore  to  shore,  and  outside  alternate  masses  of  rubhle-ice  and  smooth  tloes  of  last  year's  ice, 
or  what  i  judged  to  be  such.  'I'aking  a  lourse  for  I'yrainid  Island  [Hrainard  Island]  we  (rosseil  the  tide- 
crack  without  trouble,  and,  the  snow  inside  being  generally  hard,  made  good  time,  l-'roin  8.15  to  1S.37  reached 
the  island  and  stepped  to  rest.  What  was  taken  for  aii  island  soutli  of  it  appeared  to  be  only  a  peculiar 
formation  of  the  land  of  the  main  coast.  Followed  along  the  shore  of  tin?  island  [lirainard  Island]  to  the 
north  and  came  to  a  wide  stretch  of  snow  separating  it  from  the  shore.  The  snow  had  now  got  very  soft. 
01)li(|ued  to  the  right  towards  the  main  coast  [l.ockwood  Island],  hoi)ing  to  find  better  traveling,  but  were 
disappointed  in  this.  From  9.49  to  9.55  stop])ed  to  rest  The  traveling  after  leaving  the  island  |  IJrainard 
Island]  very  laborious  through  deep  snow  at  every  step.  Sun  like  a  grease  spot  in  the  sky ;  blowing,  snowing, 
and  drifting —im])()ssible  to  take  any  observation  for  latitude.  From  10.10  to  10.40  a.  m.  attempted  an  ob- 
servation; very  severe  work  and  doubtful  of  any  value.  After  this  the  snow  got  worse,  till  we  found  omselves 
sinking  to  the  thigh  at  every  step,  the  dogs  to  the  belly,  and  the  sledge  above  the  slats.  It  was  only  for  a 
short  distance  thus,  and  the  snow  light  and  loose,  or  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  get  along  at  all.  At 
11.30  a.  m.  reached  the  end  of  the  coast  line  [l.ockwood  Island] — the  traveling  very  bad — and  continued 
on,  turning  gradually  to  the  east  till  the  cape,  stricily  speaking,  was  reached  at  1 1.4.S  a.  in.  I''n)m  here  the 
coast  trended  to  the  south  again  and  another  fiord  [C!onger  Inlet]  appeared.  At  2  p.  111.  attempted  observa- 
tion, but  gave  it  up — sun  too  obscure  and  weather  too  bad.  .At  3.40  p.  in.  su|.per;  forty  minutes  occupied 
in  cooking  it.  hearing  of  farthest  ])oint  ahead  [C,"a|)e  Kaiiej  .SIv  by  I'",,  (mag.).  At  5  p.  m.  turned  in. 
Advanced  16  miles  in  8  houru,  15  minutes;  traveled  * —  miles  in  10  hours,  3  minutes. 


m 


it 


sketch  of  "  Farlllfht"  fioni  the  west. 
AT    FARTHEST    [LOCKWOOU    ISLANn[. 

Miiv  14. — At  7  a.  m.,  as  f  awokj,  I  saw  the  small  piece  of  i)enniiican  (dog-food)  remaining  slowly 
moving  out  of  the  lent.  On  further  investigation  I  found  that  "  Ritenbenk  "  had  burrowed  a  hole  under  the 
canvas,  and  had  in.serted  his  head  far  enough  in  to  lay  hold  of  a  corner  of  the  sack.  He  got  inside  the  tent 
at  the  last  camp,  but  was  as  unsuccessful  then  as  "ow.  At  8  a.  m.,  breakfast;  the  cooking  occupied  forty 
minutes;  tea  only  warm  and  stew  cold.  Stiil  blowing  and  aiowing;  no  sun  visible.  Last  night  it  seemed 
as  if  the  tent  would  be  blown  down.  The  rations  being  almost  exhausted,  I  decideil  to  make  this  cape 
[Cape  Christiansen]  my  farthest  and  devote  the  little  time  we  could  slay  to  determining  accurately  my  i)osi- 
tion,  if  the  weather  would  allow  it.  It  seemed  very  doubtful.  At  10  a.  m.  the  sun  became  visible  but  had 
j)assed  the  meridian.  I  feared  the  high  cliHs  here  would  obstruct  the  observations,  and  so  moved  tent,  i"\:c., 
about  one-half  mile  to  the  west  where  they  were  lower  and  the  last  liord  jU'eypri'chl  Inlet  |  opened  a  view 
to  the  .south.  7i«  >vu/c  we  stopped  and  built  a  large,  (ons|)icuous  (aim,  about  6  feet  |.2"'|  high  and 
same  in  width  at  base,  on  the  lower  of  two  shelves  or  benches.  It  is  about  30  feet  [y"'j  above  the  level 
of  ice-foot  and  alxnit  the  same  number  of  yards  <listant  from  it,  and  just  this  side  of  a  pi(  tiiiesipie  mass  of 
rocks  which  crowns  the  cliffs.  In  the  cairn  I  afterwards  deposited  a  record  of  i,.y  journey  to  d.ile,  and  also 
the  thermometer  (mininunn-registering).  I  regret  that  the  instrument  only  reads  to  —(<^.o"  [  —  53.9°  C.J. 
It  was  set  at  -f  14.0"  j  — 10.0' C.].  .Alter  repitching  tent  Sergeant  lirainard  and  I  leliiriied  to  cairn  and 
collected  in  that  vicinity  .spe'imens  of  the  rocks  and  vegetation  of  the  country,  the  .sergeant  making  alino.st 
all  the  collections.  The  w  aher  had  now  <  leared  up  beautifully,  the  sun  bright  and  dear,  and  the  atmos- 
phere calm  and  mild.     Most  of  the  time  from  now  till  midnight  was  taken  up  with  observations,  iVc. 

*Omi>siun  in  ori(;inal.— A.  W.  (J. 


11 


11 


208 


THE  LADY  F14A^'KL1N  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


May  15. — At  12.05  a.  m.  sui)|)t'r,  thirty-five  minutes  cooking;  that  is,  before  tlie  alcohol  was  exhausted. 
Stew  only  warmed;  chocolate,  ditto;  two  \i\\\\.  cui)s  ])er  man.  In  order  to  he  awake  and  get  observations 
nl  proper  times  Hrainard  and  1  took  turns  in  sleeping;  8.30  to  10.30  a.  m.  occupied  in  taking  circum-merid- 
ian observations  for  latitude. 

At  11.45  "•  '"•  breakfast.  At  2.45  p.  m.  started  with  Sergeant  Hrainard  to  ascend  the  cliffs  (opposite 
the  tent  comparatively  low  and  sloping).  We  ascended  without  difliculty  to  a  small  fringe  of  rocks  which 
seemed  from  below  to  form  the  toi),  but  found  it  only  a  kind  of  terrace  of  the  main  elevation  which  lay  be- 
fore us.  The  ascent,  at  first  very  gradual,  became  steeper  as  we  went  up,  but  we  had  no  difficulty,  as  for 
some  distance  below  tiie  summit  the  surface  is  covered  with  small  stones  as  uniform  in  size  and  position,  \:c., 
as  those  of  a  macadamized  road.  Reached  the  top  at  3.45  p.  m.  and  unfurled  the  American  flag  (Mrs. 
Greely's)  to  the  brce/.e  in  latitude  83°  24'  N.  (acc:ortling  to  last  observation). 

The  summit  is  a  small  plateau,  narrow  but  extending  back  to  the  south  to  broken,  snow-covered  heights. 
The  barometer  being  out  of  order  was  not  brought  along,  so  I  didn't  get  the  altitude.  It  commanded  a 
very  extended  view  in  every  direction.  The  route  of  our  last  journey  lay  very  distinct.  Beyond  Shoe 
[Mary  Murray)  Island  lay  a  dark  cape  ||)robably  t'ape  Ramsay |.  but  I  could  not  exactly  identify  it.  It 
bore  N\V.  (mag.),  by  pocket  compass.  Between  the  cape  this  side  and  my  position  lay  the  iiroad  fiord 
[Weyprecht  Inlet]  last  crossed,  extending  in  a  curve  to  tlie  southeast,  its  .source  shut  out  by  the  high  mount- 


>. 


Next  point  hcyuiul  K.trtln--^t. 

ains  south  of  me.  To  the  northeast  (about)  projected  another  rocky  headland  [Cape  KaneJ  to  the  north, 
and  at  its  foot  I  could  perceive  another  low  shore  projecting  out  and  forming  another  cape  [Cape  Wash- 
ington] some  distance  beyond,  doubtless  separated  from  the  first  by  a  fiord  [Hunt  [''iordj  as  the  first  was 
from  the  jiromontory  on  which  we  stood;  the  fiord  [Conger  Inlet]  just  to  the  east  exteniling  south  till  shut 
out  by  the  mountains  south  of  us,  but  it  presented  every  appearance  i/f  connecting  in  that  direction  with  the 
fiord  [\\  eyprecht  Inlet]  last  crossed.  The  horizon  beyond,  on  the  land  side,  was  concealed  by  numberless 
^now-covered  moimtains,  one  profile  overiajiping  another,  anil  all  so  merged  together  on  account  of  their 
umversal  covering  of  snow  that  it  was  impossible  to  iletect  the  topogra[)iiy  of  the  region.  To  the  north  lay 
an  unbroken  expanse  of  ice,  interrui)ted  only  by  the  horizon.  Could  see  no  land  anywhere  between  the  two 
extreme  capes  [Washington  and  Ramsay]  referred  to,  though  I  looked  long  and  carefully  as  also  did  .Sergeant 
Brainard.  Delayed  on  toji  twenty  minutes.  Left  a  short  record  in  a  small  tin  box  under  a  few  small  stones 
(there  were  no  larger  ones),  and  then  returned  to  tent,  getting  back  at  4.50  p.  m. 

RETURN  TO  FORT  CONGER. 
First  march,  Farthkst  [I.ockwood  Island]   id  Cai'K  h  vond  Shoe  [Marv  Murrav[  Island. 

At  3.50  J),  m.  (i5'!i)  started  on  return.  Found  traveling  better,  partly  on  account  of  the  late  storm 
and  partly  on  accouni  of  taking  a  direct  course  to  Pyramid  Ishiml  [Hrainard  lsland|;  the  load  also  con- 
sisted of  hardly  anytliing  but  the  lonstanl  weights;  still  we  eiicoimtered  a  good  deal  of  soft  snow.  At  9.40 
to  10.15  ]!.  m.  reached  Rubble  ("ape,  and  hauled  sledge  up  by  hand  after  unloading.  Shortly  after  starling 
the  weather  became  overcast,  .inother  storm  threatening. 

Miiy  16. — .At  12.19  a.  m.  reat  lied  Shoe  [Mary  Murray]  Island;  stopped  about  ten  minutes  to  leave 
record  in  (aim.  .At  1.40  a.  in.  reached  first  cape  west  of  island  and  we;it  into  cim]) ;  4  a.  ul,  supper  finished. 
.\ly  eyes  began  to  trouble  me  a  gutxl  deal,  exidcntly  strained  in  sextant  observatior.s  when  the  sun  was 
obscured.  The  two  iidets  [Weyprechl  Inlet  and  Wild  Fiord]  passed  to-day  seemed  of  immense  extent  and 
have  many  lateral  brandies.  I'lie  last  [Wild  Fiord |  partit  ularly  runs  a  long  way  into  the  interior;  I  could 
not  see  the  head  of  it,  due,  perha[is,  to  the  state  <jf  the  atini)s|)here.     \  long  ivay  up  is  an  island. 

Advanced  20  miles  in  7  hours,  25  minutes;  traveled  8  hours,  10  minutes. 


^ 


.VO 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


209 


Second  march,  Cai-e   wkst   ok  Shoe  [Makv   Murray]  Isi.anij  to  Cai'k  [RalstonJ  wkst   ok  Dome 

[WijkanuerJ  Cape. 

At  3  p.  111.  breakfast.  Tea  only  warm  and  stew  cold.  At  4.50  p.  ni.  started  from  camp;  at  5.41  [>.  m. 
reached  inlet  [Cape  HofTmeyer,  De  Long  Fiord]  and  took  compass  course.  Ik'ing  unable  to  see  any*''::ig 
we  got  ui)  the  fiord  too  far.  At  9  p.  m.  reached  shore  [Cape  Mohn]  on  west  side;  10  p.  m.  reached  little 
cairn  anil  deposited  record.  I  also  deposited  a  record  in  cairn  [near  Cape  Hoffmeyer]  met  about  half  an 
hour  after  leaving  camp.  At  1 1  p.  m.  reached  Pocket  Hay,  and  at  12  ni.  reached  Dome  Cape  [VVijkander]. 
The  fiord  [Gardiner  Hay]  here  appeared  closed  in  like  a  bay,  but  I  could  not  be  certain  on  account  of  the 
weather. 

May  17, — At  1.30  p,  m.  reached  cape  [Cape  Ralston]  on  farther  side  of  bay  or  channel  [Gardiner  Hay] 
last  crossed  and  went  into  camp.  At  4  a.  m.  finished  '•skoffin";  the  chocolate  so  cold  as  to  be  undrinkal)Ie; 
the  stew  with  hnnps  of  ice  in  it.  This  march  positively  has  been  the  most  uncomfortable  to  me  since  leaving 
the  Hrevoort  Peninsula.  Wind  and  snow  directly  in  our  face;  eyes  painful  and,  strange  to  say,  cold  hands 
(the  latter  I  have  been  very  free  from  while  on  the  ^0).  The  dogs  ate  up  my  seal-skin  mits  some  time  ago; 
30°  or  40"  below  zero  [—34.4  or  —40.0"  C],  without  wind,  is  preferable  to  this  weather. 

Advanced  27  miles  in  8  hours,  25  minutes;  traveled  8  hours,  40  minutes. 

Third  march,  Cai'e  [Ralston]  to  Rabbit  Cape  [Cai-e  Henet]. 

At  5.15  p.  m.  left  camp.  From  5.50  to  6  p.  m.  reached  first  fiord  to  the  west  and,  being  able  to  see 
Distant  C^ape,  made  directly  for  it.  From  8.04  to  8.20  p.  m.  arrived  about  opposite  Low  Point  antl  stopped 
to  observe  what  looked  like  a  glacier  [Huys-Haliot  Glacier]  some  distance  inlanil  to  the  east  of  it.  Tiiis 
glacier  had  all  the  appearance  of  a  mound-shaped  hill  covered  with  snow,  with  a  continuous  wall  of  green  ice 
all  along  the  side  towards  the  sea.  The  wall  must  have  been  of  considerable  height,  though  at  my  stand- 
point it  looked  ijuite  low;  all  around  were  snow-covered  mountains  except  on  the  north  side,  where  a 
uniform  and  rather  low  sloping  surface  came  down  to  the  coast.  Distance  of  the  wall  from  the  coast,  4  or 
5  miles,  or  much  more  perhaps. 

At  9.40  p.  m.  reached  coast  near  Distant  Cape,  and  in  one  quarter  of  an  hour  had  rounded  cape  and 
reached  small  bay  on  farther  side.  At  10.35  '*^  '°44  l'-  ii-  opposite  side  reached ;  rested.  At  1 1.35  p.  m. 
left  the  ice-foot  on  west  side  of  this  cape  [Cape  Payer],  Rested  ten  minutes  in  crossing  this  large  fwd 
[Mascart  Inlet]. 

May  i8.-— At  2  a.  m.  reached  farther  coast  and  cairn  at  Rabbit  Cape  [Cape  IJenet]  and  went  into  camp. 
The  weather  to-day  variable,  thick,  with  west  wind  in  the  morning;  afterwards  it  improved.  Traveling 
quite  good,  on  the  whole,  especially  when  compared  with  the  outward  journey.  The  late  storms  have  madV; 
the  snow  much  better,  but  still  it  is  very  laborious  across  the  large  fiord  [Mascart  Inlet]  just  to  the  east. 
The  three  inlets  crossed  seemed  rather  bays  than  channels — impossible  to  say  positively.  The  rations  left 
here  found  untouched.  Two  ptarmigan  seen,  but  Christiansen  was  unsuccessful  in  getting  either.  Fox  and 
hare  tracks  numerous.     At  O.30  a.  m.  retired  to  rest. 

Advanced  19  miles  in  8  hours,  10  minutes.     Traveled  8  Lours,  45  minutes. 

F'ourth  march,  RAiiiiiT  Cape  [Cape  Ben^t]  to  ki.oe  east  ok  North  Cape  [Cape  Frederick]. 

At  2.50  p.  m.  woke  up  and  called  Hrainard.  At  4  p.  m.  breakfast;,  very  windy  last  night.  At  6.12 
p.  m.  left  camp.  At  7.30  p.  m.  reached  opposite  side  of  bay  [l.inn  Hay].  At  from  8.25  to  8.45  p.  m 
reached  Hlack  Cape;  stopped  to  rest;  built  a  small  cairn.  At  9.53  p.  m.  reached  Hlue  Cape;  stojiijcd  about 
fifteen  minutes  for  lunch. 

May  19. — At  from  1.13  to  1.20  a.  m.  stopped  opposite  Diamond  Island  |Ca[)e  Salor,  I'',iison  Island]. 
A  warm  sun,  and  trudging  through  this  soft  snow,  occasioned  frequent  stops  for  rest.  At  2.20  .1,  m.  went 
into  canip  on  floe  opposite  floe  on  east  siile  of  Cape  Britannia  Land.  Weather  beautiful.  The  traveling 
better  than  it  was  outward  bound,  the  wind  having  hardened  the  snow  crust,  but  still  i[uite  laborious.  The 
ilogs  still  continued  to  look  well,  though  pulled  down  in  flesh  more  or  less,  excepting  Ritenbenk  (the  king), 
who  for  some  days  had  been  under  the  weather — going  along  with  his  head  and  tail  down,  and  not  pulling 
at  all.  The  mountains  in  sight  all  covered  with  snow;  the  fiord  [Nordenskirid  Inlet]  opposite  could  be 
seen  to  run  a  long  distance  iidand,  straight  as  a  canal;  no  land  visible  at  its  liuad. 

Advanced  17  miles  in  7  hours,  25  minutes.    Traveled  8  hours,  8  minutes 
H.  Ml8.  393 U 


■i\ 


IP 


tv 


i:iO 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Fifth  march, 


TO  Capk  Britannia. 


At  6  p.  m.  left  camp.  From  9  to  9.10  p.  m.  slopped  not  far  from  North  Cape  [Cape  Frederick]. 
General  trend  of  tii.' eastern  coast  is  SW.  by  S.  (mag.).  Weather  clear.  Ritenbenk  seems  lame  as  well 
as  sick.     From  9.27  to  10.05  !>•  '"•  stopped;  circum-meridian  observations. 

May  20. — At  from  1.27  to  1.46  a.  m.  readied  cairn  at  Cape  Britannia,  found  cache  untouched.  Put- 
ting the  rations  on  the  sledge,  and  snow-shoes,  and  leaving  the  extra  sledge-runner  and  small  lamp  at  the 
cairn,  we  continued  on,  on  the  lloe.  At  2  a.  m.  went  into  camp  a  few  hundred  yards  from  shore.  The  sun 
bright  and  clear,  but  a  south  wind  blowing  (juite  strong.     At  6  a.  m.  turned  in,  after  taking  an  observation. 

Advanced  12  miles  in  6  Jiours  (about).     Traveled  8  hours. 

Sixth  march,  between  Cape  Britannia  and  Cape  Bryant. 

At  5  p.  m.  got  up.  We  all  seemed  to  sleep  very  heavily  nowadays.  After  breakfast  I  went  ashore 
with  Sergeant  Brainard  and  collected  specimens  of  the  rocks  and  vegetation.  Traces  of  musk-oxen  (drop- 
pings) found,  but  quite  old.     Saw  some  snow-birds.     At  9  ;o  p.  m.  started  on  march. 

May  21. — At  5  a.  m.  sun  very  bright  and  warm ;  calm.  A  singular  phenomenon  existed  several  hours 
this  morning  ;  a  dense  fog  obscured  the  horizon  so  that  no  land  could  be  seen,  yet  not  extending  high  enough 
to  dim  the  sun.  Difficult  to  keep  a  straight  course  and  avoid  bad  ice  under  such  circumstances.  At  C.01 
a.  m.  camped  on  level  floe.  One  hour's  delay  in  all  on  march.  At  9  a.  m.  supper  finished.  Everything 
singularly  bright  and  clear,  the  sun  having  disappeared.  Shortly  after  starting  this  morning  I  put  on  the 
snow-shoes.  Regrets  at  leaving  tliem  behind  haunted  me  every  day  while  beyond  Britannia.  It  was  my  first 
attempt,  but,  notwithsianding,  the  relief  experienced  was  wonderful.  Sergeant  Brainard  soon  followed  my 
example,  and  we  wore  them  continuously  thereafter  till  Cape  Bryant  was  reached,  and  most  of  the  time 
afterwards.  There  was  now  no  difficulty  at  all  in  one  of  us  keeping  ahead  of  the  dogs  to  encourage  them 
and  pick  out  a  rouie.  The  snow  was  not  very  soft  or  deep,  but  still  sufficiently  so  to  be  very  fatiguing  when 
prolonged  through  several  hours.  The  dogs  seemed  to  stand  it  well,  and  drew  the  sledge  seemingly  without 
much  effort,  but  the  sledge  was  now  very  light. 

Advanced  16  miles  in  71^  hours  (about).    Traveled  8  hours,  17  minutes. 


Seventh  march,  between  Cape  Britannia  and  Cape  Bryant. 


\ 


At  8.21  p.m.  left  camp.  From  9.31  to  9.41  p.m.  stopped  at  a  low  ridge  of  hummocks.  Beautiful  day; 
clear  and  calm.  Sun  very  warm,  and  traveling  hard  on  the  dogs.  Sergeant  Brainard  and  I  experienced  no 
trouble  on  account  of  having  the  snow-shoes ;  9.55  to  9.58  p.  m.,  reached  tidal  crack  ;  wanted  to  get  thickness 
of  the  ice  but  the  crack  was  frozen  up  at  this  place ;   1 1  to  11.10  p.  m.,  stopped  to  rest. 

May  22. — At  from  12.04  to  12.25  a.  in.  stopped  for  lunch  of  pemmican  and  hard  bread;  2.12  to  2.34 
a.  m.  stopped  to  view  a  remarkable  parhelia,  somewhat  as  follows : 


At  4.15  a.  m  camped.  Weather  a  little  cloudy  and  slightly  overcast,  threatening  snow;  6  a,  m., supper. 
*Iy  eyes  somewhat  painful ;  Ritenbenk  all  right  again.  Two  of  the  bitches  are  with  pups;  Christiansen 
says,  "  White  koony,  16  days." 

Advanced  16  miles  in  7  hours  (about).    Traveled  7  hours,  54  minute.s. 


t^i, 


THE  LADY  FEANKLIN  BAT  EXPEDITION. 


Eighth  march,  between  Cape  Britannia  and  Cape  Bryant. 


211 


At  8  p.  m,  overcast  and  snowing;  no  land  visible;  air  cooler  than  yesterday.  At  8.40  p.  m.  broke 
camp  and  started.  From  10.17  to  ^°-3°  rested.  Fox  tracks  from  the  northwest  seen  half  an  hour  previous; 
fox  tracks  also  here,  going  north.  Land  entirely  obscured.  From  11.57  to  12.26  stojjped  for  lunch.  Two 
more  fox  tracks  going  south  seen  about  an  hour  before  stopping.  About  i  o'clock  the  fog  lifted,  so  that 
Dragon  Point  could  be  seen  indistinctly. 

May  23. — From  1.32  to  1.42  a.  m.  rested ;  still  snowing  but  not  so  foggy.  Compass  course  to-day  has 
been  NW.  (mag.).  From  2.47  to  3  a.  m.  rested.  Sergeant  Brainard  or  I  always  ahead  of  the  sledge. 
In  this  way  the  dogs  travel  much  better  and  there  is  Ic  s  difficulty  in  taking  the  right  direction.  At 
4.40  a.  m.  camped  somewhere  about  opposite  Saint  George's  Fiord.  About  one  day's  more  rations  is  all  that 
is  left;  several  items  exhausted  some  days  since.  The  wind  started  up  after  getting  into  camp.  Traveling 
to-day  very  heavy.  The  snow  seemed  to  fall  en  masse  as  the  sledge  passed  over  or  rather  through  it,  a 
section  immediately  round  the  sledge  Hilling  all  together  and  taking  a  lower  level ;  this  was  accompanied 
by  a  cracking  sound.     This  phenomenon  was  noticeable  every  day.     At  8.15  a.  m.  turned  in. 

Advanced  16  miles  in  (about)  7  hours.     Traveled  8  hours. 


Ninth  march. 


TO  Cape  Bryant. 


At  4.4s  p.  m.  got  up.  Weather  calm,  but  snowing  and  everything  obscure.  At  8.40  p.  m.  started  from 
camp. 

Mi/y  24. — At  12.08  a.  m.  reached  shore  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  southeast  of  Cape  Bryant; 
continued  along  the  coast  and  pitched  tent  near  old  camp.  The  rations  in  the  cairn  near  by  were  found 
untouched.  Some  time  was  occupied  in  visiting  this  cairn,  in  trying  to  find  a  tide-crack  along  shore  (in 
which  we  were  unsuccessful),  &c.  My  left  eye  being  quite  painful  I  remained  in  tent  and  at  6.15  a.  m. 
sent  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Christiansen  out  to  look  for  Beaumont's  cache,  and  also  to  find  a  tide-crack 
where  we  could  make  tidal  observations.  At  11  a.  m.  Sergeant  Brainard  returned;  he  had  been  along  the 
coast  to  the  west,  some  2j4  miles,  but  was  unsuccessful  in  finding  the  cache.  Coming  back  he  found 
a  tide-crack  opposite  the  tent  but  some  distance  from  shore.  At  2.20  p.  m.,  after  a.  hearty  meal,  we  all 
turned  in. 

Advanced  12  miles  in  (about)  3^  hours.     Traveled  3  hours,  52  minutes. 


at   cape    BRYANT    (RETURN). 

At  11.20  p.  m.  (2<ith)  got  up. 

May  25. — At  12.20  a.  m.  breakfast  (a  fine  one),  musk-meat,  bacon,  potatoes,  and  tea,  which  I  got  from 
the  cache.  An  hour  afterwards  I  went  with  Sergeant  Brainard  to  the  tide-crack  about  half  a  mile  from 
shore,  and,  selecting  a  place,  let  down  a  rope  with  a  stone  attached.  The  depth  was  103  feet  [31'"].  This 
was  the  only  arrangement  that  suggested  itself  of  getting  a  record  of  the  tide.  The  weather  was  overcast, 
with  snow,  and  the  crack  concealed  from  the  shore  by  several  intermediate  ranges  of  hummocks,  so  that 
each  observation  occupied  twenty-five  minutes  out  of  the  hour.  We  commenced  at  2  a.  m.,  and  continued 
the  observations  till  noon  (each  taking  alternate  tours  of  four  hours),  when  I  became  convinced  that  our 
record  was  worthless,  and  so  stoppetl  the  work.  One  cause  of  want  of  success  seemed  to  be  a  tide  or 
current  which  inclined  the  rope  to  the  right  (east),  and  when  the  stone  was  raised  and  lowered  several  times 
in  succession  it  seemed  to  take  a  different  level  on  each  occasion.  The  divisions  on  the  rope  were  made 
with  string  tied  around  it.     Several  crustaceans  were  brought  up  from  the  bottom  with  the  stone. 

The  dog'i  during  our  operations  visited  the  cairn  on  the  hill  und  ate  a  few  pounds  of  hard  bread,  the 
only  thing  tl.ey  could  gel  at.  Supper  at  noon.  At  3.40  p.  m.  returned  from  cairn  with  Sergeant  Brainard. 
We  rebuilt  the  cairn,  secured  the  rations  to  be  left  in  it,  &c.  (a  list  appended).  We  are  both  made  miserable 
again  with  our  eyes.  They  were  made  worse,  of  course,  by  the  tidal  observations,  as  it  was  necessary  to 
have  them  uncovered  in  walking  back  and  forth.     After  this  we  all  turned  in  to  sleep. 

I 

Ti;ntii  march,  Cai-e  Bryant  to  Hanh  Bay. 


At  10  p.  m.  arose,  and  in  about  an  hour  had  breakfast.     Beautiful  morning;  calm  and  clear;  temperature 
a  little  lower. 


i^\i 


I  'f 


iiii 


1 1! 


212 


TUE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Af(jy  26. — At  «2.49  a.  m.  left  caniii;  at  2.35  a,  ni.  stopped.  Sergeant  Brainard,  who  was  walking  on 
snow-shoes  along  the  slojie  some  distance  to  the  left,  called  out  that  he  had  found  Beaumont's  cache.  The 
sledge  was  ojjposiit.-  a  v.at'T-rniirse,  which  forms  a  delta,  reaching  to  the  ravine,  perhaps  a  mile  inland.  On 
a  small,  bare  hillock,  or  mound,  about  150  yards  [137'"]  from  the  coast,  we  found  an  old  Knfield  rifle,  a  pole 
shod  with  iron,  cross-piece  of  a  sledge,  three  or  four  articles  of  underwear,  the  wooden  sole  of  a  shoe,  some 
cartridges  and  the  loose  balls  of  others,  a  thimble,  sewing-thread,  \'c.  The  tent,  sjjirits  of  wine,  pemmican, 
coverlet,  Arc,  which  we  expected,  were  not  to  be  found.  Around  the  foot  of  the  little  bluff  (or  mound)  lay 
several  feet  of  snow,  which  n)ay,  however,  have  concealed  these  articles.  No  cairn,  or  trace  of  one,  could 
be  found.  Abundant  fox  and  hare  droi)pings  were  about.  Some  distance  farther  on  I  shot  a  ptarmigan  on 
the  top  of  a  very  large  floe-berg.  It  was  only  by  climbing  a  snow-drift  that  Christiansen  got  tiie  bird  down. 
'I'his  floe-berg  was  (juite  a  remarkable  one,  by  its  size  and  the  regularity  of  its  shape.  Its  height,  above  the 
sea,  was  .ibout  30  feet  [9"']  by  about  50  feet  [  1 5'"]  long  and  broad ;  its  form  was  s<iuare ;  an  undulating  surface 
on  top  covered  with  snow.  Sn//  icicles  hung  from  the  south  side.  The  ice  composing  it  was  very  homogeneous, 
apparently.  How  such  a  mass  could  be  pressed  up  till  it  touched  the  ice-foot  is  a  mystery.  At  8.50  a.  m. 
reached  cache  No.  3 ;  took  the  rations  from  it  and  conti.iued  on.  At  10.42  a.  m.  camped  on  the  east  shore 
of  Hand  Hay ;  at  12  m.  sui)per.  Brainard  and  1  have  worn  snow-shoes  all  day.  Traveling  generally  heavy, 
and  {i\r  inferior  to  what  it  was  on  the  outward  journey,  especially  on  Franktield  Bay  and  the  indentations  of 
the  coast  to  the  east  of  it.  The  influence  of  the  sun  on  the  snow  and  floe-bergs  quite  perceptible.  Sergeant 
Brainard  suflered  a  good  ileal  with  his  eyes  to-day,  and  had  to  keej)  them  bandaged.  My  own  eyes  very 
sensitive  to  the  light.  The  bufiido  sleeping-bag  is  almost  too  warm  such  weather  as  this.  A  great  many 
fox  tracks  seen  during  the  day.     Tu/ned  in  at  2  p.  m. 

Advanced  12  miles  in  yj^  hours.    Traveled  9  hours,  53  minutes. 

El.KVliNlH    MARCH,  HaND    Bav   TO    DrIKT   PoINT. 

At  8.55  p.  m.  Sergeant  Brainard  rose  to  cook  breakfast,  which  we  ate  fifty  minutes  afterwards.  Weather 
more  iileasant,  being  cooler  and  somewhat  overcast.  Kipped  open  the  upi)er  end  of  seam  of  sleeping-bag 
during  the  night  and  found  it  much  more  comfortable.     At  11.22  p.m.  broke  camp  and  started. 

M(iy  27 — At  12.42  a.  m.  reached  west  side  of  Hand  Bay.  From  12.47  to  1.15  a.  m.  stopped  at  Cape 
Stanton;  traveling  across  Hand  Bay  quite  good;  the  Grinnell  Land  shore  very  distinct.  Cape  Joseph 
Henry  visible,  or  what  I  took  for  that  cape.  The  ice  to  the  north  of  us  seemed  very  rough  ;  rubble-ice  in  all 
directions.  At  2  a.  m.  reached  Stanton  Gorge;  a  good  many  fox  tracks  l)etween  here  and  Cape  Stanton. 
Lieutenant  Beaumont's  cairn  very  conspicuous  from  aj)proach  on  east  side.  At  3.0  to  3.37  a.  m.  reached 
cache  No.  2  and  stopped  to  put  the  rations  on  sledge.  The  traveling  from  Cape  Stanton  here  along  a 
snow  slope;  the  constant  effort  to  avoid  slipping  down  hill  makes  it  very  fatiguing.  Saw  a  great  many  fox 
tracks.  At  4.30  a.  m.  reached  Black  Horn  Cliffs.  Found  tracks  covered  up.  Considered  whether  to  make 
a  wide  detour  aroiind  the  rubble-ice  made  in  April,  or  to  follow  cliffs.  Decided  on  the  latter.  Got  along 
without  much  difficulty  for  some  distance,  but  then  encountered  the  mass  of  rubble-ice  and  hummocks  antici- 
j)ated,  and  had  to  use  the  ax  constandy.  At  6  a.  m.  reached  west  end  of  Black  Horn  Cliffs,  traveling  over 
the  intermediate  floe  of  last  year's  ice  quite  rapidly.  At  1.05  to  1.15  a.  m.  reached  end  of  this  level  floe, 
about  half  a  mile  farther,  and  stopped  to  rest.  Here  the  old  tracks  ran  close  to  shore  and  I  was  able  to 
follow  them  through  the  rubble-ice  without  difficulty,  but,  in  a  few  hundred  yards,  lost  them  again.  The 
sledge-runners  requiring  rclashing  I  proceeded  ahead  with  the  ax  and  selected  a  route  for  the  sledge,  making 
u  road  as  I  went.  Found  the  place  where  we  had  taken  to  the  floe  on  the  outward  journey,  but  could  hardly 
identify  it,  the  whole  character  of  the  floe-bergs  having  changed;  found  the  snow-slopes  practically  impas- 
sable. So  followed  along  on  the  floe,  making  a  road  where  necessary,  till,  at  the  end  of  the  snow-slope,  I 
found  a  good  landing.  Returning,  and  meeting  sledge  en  route,  we  reached  this  place  at  8,05  a.  m. 
Stoi)ped  to  fix  traces.  The  changed  appearance  of  the  ice,  especially  the  floe-bergs,  a  subject  of  daily 
remark.  Well  known  floe-bergs  were  so  much  dwindled  down  in  si'.e  as  to  be  almost  uiiecognizable.  At 
from  8.50  to  9.02  a.  m.  reached  the  remains  of  the  broken  sledge  (the  Nans).  Pulled  it  up  the  hill  a  little 
distance,  away  from  the  shore.  At  9.20  a.  m.  reached  Drift  Point  and  camped.  At  11,20  ^.  m.  supper.  At 
J  2.40  p.  m.  turned  in. 

Advanced  221^  miles  in  (about)  7^  hours.    Traveled  9  hours,  58  minutes, 


tHB  LADY  FRANlvLlN  I'.AY  EXPEDITtOi^. 


Twelfth  march,  Drift  Point  to  Gap  Vallky. 


213 


At  8.20  p.  m.  Sergeant  Brainard  got  up  to  cook  breakfast.  Bad  weather  again ;  strong  west  wind  with 
snow.     At  1 1.54  p.  m.  broke  camp  and  started,  after  delaying  some  lime  for  the  wind  to  motlcrate. 

May  28. — At  from  12.50  to  1.04  a.  m.  reached  cache  No.  i.  tlie  site  of  our  first  camp  on  this  coast; 
the  i)Iace  hardly  recognizable;  the  large  piece  of  hummocky  ice,  behind  which  the  tents  were  pitched, 
hardly  half  its  former  size.  Found  the  ice-foot  clear  of  snow  most  of  the  way  from  Drift  Point.  At  2.15 
a.  m.  reached  place  on  coaot  directly  opposite  the  flats  of  Lost  River.  Having  decided  to  return  via  tlie 
true  Gap  Valley,  \i  I  could  find  it,  we  kept  on  without  stopping.  The  dark  object,  noticed  to  the  west  from 
here  in  April,  soon  recognized  as  a  cairn,  and  soon  afterwards  espied  a  small  indentation  of  the  coast,  which 
I  knew  must  be  Repulse  Harbor.  At  2.30  a.  m.  reached  east  shore  of  the  harbor,  near  mouth,  and  striking 
directly  across  found  good  traveling  over  undulating  ice  and  hard  snow;  reach  opposite  shore  at  2.54  a.  m. 

At  from  2.57  to  4.45  a.  m.  stopped  near  cairn.  P'ound  quite  a  number  of  documents  at  cairn.  A  chilly 
wind  blowing  I  took  shorthand  copies  and  left  the  originals  in  cairn  (a  copy  of  these  appended).  Con- 
tinuing down  the  coast  over  an  ice-foot  covered  with  good,  hard  snow,  we  reached,  in  fifty  minutes,  a  narrow 
gorge,  and  stopped  twenty  minutes  to  make  sure  it  was  not  Gap  Valley.  At  7  a.  m.  reached  a  wiile,  straight 
valley,  running  almost  due  south  and  ending  in  a  ravine,  plainly  seen  about  2^  miles  distant.  Felt  confident 
that  this  must  be  Gap  Valley.  After  getting  a  little  way  in,  the  traveling  was  found  anything  but  good,  the 
sledge  frequently  grating  on  stones,  even  where  the  snow  was  comparatively  deep.  At  9.09  a.  m.  reached  the 
ravine  running  south  after  delays  aggregating  twenty-five  minutes,  on  account  of  drag-rope  breaking,  &:c. 
Here  we  entered  a  narrow,  winding  canon.  At  11. 13  a.  ni.  camped  in  the  ravine  near  its  head  after  several 
more  deh^'s.  My  eyes  hurt  me  a  good  deal.  Hardly  enough  ration;;  left  for  two  meals.  The  dogs 
having  been  on  short  allowance  some  time  were  very  ravenous,  and  even  tore  open  the  bag  of  geological 
specimens  to  see  if  the  stones  were  good  to  eat ;  3  a.  m.  turned  in.. 

Advanced  17  miles  in  8  hours,  18  minutes.     Traveled  i  i  hours,  19  mmutes. 


''il 


II 


Thirtf.knth  march.  Gap  Vai.i.ey  to  [/'i>/i/ns\  Hnxr  Camp. 

At  11.15  p.  m.  Brainard  arose  to  cook  breakfast.     Weather  overcast,  with  wind  from  south. 

May  29.  — At  1.55  a.  m.  left  tent  standing,  and,  with  Sergeant  Brainard,  started  out  to  reconnoiter  beforri 
advancing  the  sledge.  We  soon  came  to  a  plain  (the  divide),  and,  following  the  shalhnv  surface  drain,  saw 
first  the  high  cliffs  of  Polaris  Promontory  and  then  Newman  Bay  and  the  neighboring  landmarks.  Con- 
tinued on  till  we  reached  a  depression  running  south,  which,  we  could  see,  changed  into  a  gorge,  or  ravine,  a 
short  distance  aiiead  and  evidently  very  soon  found  its  wayto  the  bay.  Leaving  Sergeant  Urainard  I 
leturnetl,  and  getting  in  sight  of  Christiansen  who  had  packed  up  everything  in  the  mean  time,  I  waved  to 
him,  and  at  3. 1 1  a.  m.  he  started  with  the  sledge.  In  thirty-five  minutes  reached  the  south  side  of  divide,  and 
shorUy  afterwards  made  a  steep  descent  on  the  side  of  an  immense  snow-drift.  Shortly  after  this  the  ravine 
narrowed  to  a  gorge,  and  we  encountered  several  delays  in  getting  over  stones  and  down  stee[)  snow-drifts. 
At  the  last  of  these  was  a  wonderful  snow-cave,  its  floor  formed  by  the  bed  of  the  gorge.  It  was  upwards 
of  100  feet  [30'"]  long,  about  10  feet  [3"']  wide,  and  high  enough  to  walk  through  upright.  Its  inside  resem- 
bled, somewhat,  the  inside  of  an  immense  smokestack,  the  joints  being  represented  by  a  ribbed  apjiearance 
of  snow.  Stopped  here  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  examining  this  place  and  lowering  sledge  down  the 
slope  by  traces.  In  seven  minutes  more  we  reached  Newman  Bay  (5  a.  m.).  I  built  a  cairn  on  the  edge 
of  the  gorge,  about  150  yards  [137"']  back  from  the  ice-fool,  and  started  on  again  at  6.03  a.  m.  The 
traveling  across  the  bay  was  excellent;  a  light  coat  of  snow,  liard  and  smooth.  The  gully  just  left  is  the 
fourth  from  Cajje  Brevoort;  from  which,  to  Gorge  Creek,  is  about  two-thirds  the  distance.  Gorge  Creek 
is  the  sixth  water-cojrse  from  the  cape. 

At  8.03  a.  m.  reached  ice-foot  near  Boat  Camp  (delaying  about  ten  minutes  in  crossing  Newman  Bay), 
and  five  minutes  afterwards  were  at  the  Boat  Camp  itself,  where  we  saw  the  6-man  tent  [litched  near  the 
whale-boat,  and  inside  Sergeants  Linn,  Ralston,  and  Elison  asleep.  While  we  were  pitching  our  tent  they 
woke  up  and  came  out.  Sergeant  Linn  and  party  arrived  here,  without  event,  May  5,  their  intermediate 
camps  being;  (1)  Between  Frankfield  and  Hand  Bays;  (2)  cache  No.  2  (near  Stanton  Gorge) ;  (3)  Lost  River, 
near  seacoast;  (4)  on  Divide;  (5)  mouth  of  Gorge  Creek;  (6)  Boat  Camp.  Sergeant  Jewell,  Corporal  Salor, 
and  Private  Frederick  left  on  the  7th  for  Fort  Conger.     (J>n  the  nth  Dr.  Pavy  came  over  with  dog-team, 


m 


i   ! 


•I 


;lil 


11 


tii 


214 


THE  LADY  FltANKLIX  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


til  I  I 

li 


i!  '• 


bringing  some  rations,  and  returning  the  day  following.  On  the  17th  they  woke  u[)  to  find  that  two  bears 
had  paid  them  a  visit  during  their  sleep.  The  animals  came  fi-om  Newman  Hay,  ani.  ifter  meandering 
about  the  camp  and  going  close  to  the  whale-boat,  they  departed  down  the  straits  via  e  Sumner ;  their 
tracks  were  followed  thus  far.  As  the  party  had  only  a  pistt)l,  the  near  approach  of  th>  •  bears  created  a 
little  sensation.  With  these  exceptions,  their  monotonous  stay  of  twenty-five  days  nt  lii'  IJoiit  Camp  had 
been  only  broken  by  the  sight  of  some  ptarmigan,  a  fox,  and  constant  gales  of  wind,  wh-  i  made  it  difiu  i.it 
to  secure  their  tint.  The  general  health  of  the  party  was  good.  After  we  had  all  e;u  1  a  goo  '  breakfast 
together  I  directed  Sergeant  Linn  to  make  a  careful  inventory  of  everything  to  be  leK  1.  cache,  and  then 
Sergeant  Urainard,  Christiansen,  and  I  turned  in  at  i  p.  iv  JJefore  lone;,  however,  liie  wind,  which  ever 
blows  here,  gav;  us  '  specimen  of  what  the  other  parfy  had  expericin'cd,  by  partially  blowmg  the  ;nt  (K  tvn, 
an('  :\  hand  •■•'•e  0.  uipied  a  h;''f-hour  or  '>iore  in  securing  it  with  pins,  stones,  r  jpes,  iVc. 
i'vdvsin. .. !  iu    iiks  in  4  hours,  about.    Traveled,  5  hours,  24  minutes. 

Fourteenth  marcHj  [Poi.arisJ  Boat  Camp  to  Cape  Heechev. 

Got  up  to  find  u  Slewing — and  of  course  blowing — and  everything  very  obscure.  1  had  decided  to 
take  everything — except  what  was  to  be  left  in  cache — on  dog-sledge,  and  while  this  bulky  and  very  heavy 
load  was  being  packed,  &c.,  we  biiilt  a  large  cairn  near  by.  In  it  I  deposited  a  record.  At  11.25  left 
camp  with  whole  party  (6).     (Inventory  of  everything  left,  appended.) 

Afay  30. — At  12.10  a.  m.  reached  ice-foot  at  Cape  Sumner.  Having  so  many  to  help  we  got  the  heavy 
load  along  the  snow-slopes  with  or.'y  a  few  short  delays.  Met  with  a  great  many  little  pools  of  water  in 
the  rubble-ice  below,  an<l  had  several  shoit  delays;  otherwise  the  general  character  of  traveling  was  the  same. 
I  took  the  route  along  shore  to  the  Gap,  which  we  got  opposite  at  3.30  a.  m.  At  5.30  a.  m.  stojiped  half- 
hour  for  lunch,  the  traveling  anything  but  plt;asant,  as  only  the  Polaris  Promontory  c  iild  be  seen,  ami  this 
not  distinctly  ;  wind  and  snow  from  the  northeast.  Took  a  compass  course  for  Heechey,  but  inclined  too 
much  to  the  right  and  got  in  a  mass  of  rubble-ice,  which  gave  us  a  great  deal  of  trouble  and  vexation  of 
spirit.  However,  after  a  while  the  west  coast  loomed  up,  and  by  inclining  to  the  south  we  got  out  of  the 
rubble-ice,  and  at  10.35  ^-  "^'  reached  the  tent  on  the  straits,  4j^  miles  from  shore.  Sergeant  Linn  and  party 
had  had  no  sleep  since  my  arrival  at  the  Boat  Camp ;  this,  and  their  long  inaction  there,  made  this  march  very 
fatiguing.  V'ishing  to  reach  shore,  I  suggested  to  Ralston  anil  Klisr;i  to  rcniaiii  o;rr  at  the  tent  and  come 
in  after  taking  a  good  rest,  but  they  would  not  hear  of  it.  After  three-fourths  hour  delay  we  continued  on 
and  reiched  Cape  Beechey  at  1.^0  p.  m.  The  day's  march  was  a  hard  one,  and  could  not  have  been  much 
short  of  30  miles.     At  3.40  p.  m.  all  turned  in,  in  the  6-man  tent. 

Advanced  25  miles  in  i2j^  hours,  .about.     Traveled  13  hours,  55  minutes. 

Fifteenth  march,  Cape  Beechey  to  Depot  A  [Cape  Murchison], 

Miiy  31. — At  2.30  a.  m.  called  cook  (Sergeant  Elison),  who  cooked  some  tea,  which,  with  crackers,  was 
ad  we  had.  Ac  4  a.  m.  breakfast.  Beautiful  morning;  clear  and  calm.  Sergeant  Ralston  much  used  up 
with  stiff  joints ;  his  eyes,  also,  quite  painful.  Elison  also  under  the  weather.  Shortly  after  breakfast  1  sent 
Sergeant  Brainard  with  Christiansei  and  team  out  on  the  straits  to  bring  in  the  tent,  and  some  time  after- 
wards Ralston  and  Elicon  started  for  the  snow  house  to  await  my  arrival  there.  Sergeant  I'Mison  took  the 
lamps  along  in  order  to  cook  breakfast  for  us.  Dog-sledge  returned  at  8.14.  On  its  return  I  deposited  in 
cache,  about  150  yards  [137'"]  below,  the  wall  tent  brought  in,  a  rubber  blanket,  .and  box  of  medicine.  At 
9.13  a.  m.  left  with  sledge  and  load,  and  reached  snow  house  [Depot  BJ  in  two  hours.  Here  I  found  Privates 
Ellis  and  Whisler,  who  had  come  out  to  look  for  us,  &c.  I  delayed  here  2  hours  and  50  minutes,  during  which 
we  had  a  substantial  meal,  fed  the  clogs,  &'c.  At  2.25  p.  m.  left  snow  house  with  some  articles  put  on  here  in 
addition  to  my  load.  Ralston,  accompanied  by  P'.llis,  proceeded  on  leisurely  some  time  before  my  departure. 
I  overtook  them  on  St.  Patrick  Bay,  going  along  very  slowly.  Ralston's  snow-blindness  was  so  bad  that  he 
had  not  opened  his  eyes  since  leaving  S\mday  Bay.  Sergeant  Linn's  eyes  were  almost  as  bad  ;  he  held  on 
to  the  upstander  of  the  sledge  constantly.  At  6.40  p.  m.  reached  depot  A,  and  we  all  put  up  in  the  wall 
tent  here.  We  all  found  ourselves  suffering  more  or  less  with  snow-blindness  (excepting  I-'rederick,  l'",llis, 
and  Christiansen,  the  Eskimo),  and  all  the  opium  was  speedily  used  uj)  on  bandages,  At  9.30  p.  m.  went 
to  bed. 

Advanced  14  miles  in  C  hours  and  15  minutes.     Traveled  9  hours  and  27  minutes. 


TUB  LADY  rP\NKLIX  15AY  EXPEDITION. 


21  f) 


Sixteenth  march,  Depot  A  [Cai-e  Murchisonj  to  Fort  CoN(iKR. 

yune  I. — At  6  a,  -n.  cook  aros>'.  Private  lislcr  came  along  during  our  sleep,  about  2  a.  m.,  but, 
there  being  no  place  for  him  to  sleep,  he  contin'u>'l  •  to  the  station.  IJreakfast  at  7  a.  m.  At  8.10  Sergeants 
Ralston  and  I,inn  left  for  station,  led  by  Serg.  'lii  F-lison  aiTll  KUis.  At  9.45  a.  m.  I  left  with  Sergeant 
Rrainard,  Christiansen,  and  dog-sledge.  Reach'.  Water-course  Bay  in  about  an  hour,  and  there  met  Lieu- 
tenant Clreely,  whom  Whislcr's  arrival  in  advance  had  informed  of  our  near  apjiroach.  After  about  ten 
minutes'  delay  we  all  continued  on  together.  On  reaching  the  bare  rock  near  Distant  (!ape,  it  being  neces- 
sary to  relash  the  sledge,  Lieutenant  Greely  and  I  continued  on  and  reached  the  station  about  1  p.  m. 
The  sledge  arrived  about  an  hour  later. 

Advanced  9  miles  in  (about)  4  hours.     Traveled  about  5  hours. 

Sergeant  Iirainar(P s  hller  of  tra)is)»itt(xl. 

KoKI'    CONOKR,  (IRINNKI.I.    LaNI),    yuh    4,  1882. 

Sir  :  In  ci..  pli;.  •  with  your  request,  I  have  the  honor  to  herewith  transmit  an  abstract  of  uiy  sledge 
journal,  from   ^nril  .\pril  29,  1882,  inclusive. 

These  V'<^  ;  i.r^:  i^  icrord  of  the  daily  experiences  of  the  sup])orting  sletlge  party,  which  I  commanded, 
until  it  tur'i     '>ai.r  rit  Cape  Hryant,  where  I  joined  your  sledge. 

I  have  en<'  T  .;jred  to  herein  record  such  events  as  may  be  of  special  interest  to  you,  and  which  will 
best  describe  the  jharucter  of  our  labors. 

I  am   very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

I).  L.  Urainari), 

Sergeant. 
Lieut.  J.  P.  LocKwooD, 

U.  S.  Army,  A.  S.  O. 


Sergeant  lirainard^  s  abstract  of  sledge  journal. 

April  ■X,,  1882 — In  accordance  with  instructions  from  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  I  left  Foit  Conger  at  6.20 
p.  m.,  with  sledging  party  of  ten  men,  assigned  as  follows  to  the  Hudson  Bay  sledges :  llaxis.  Sergeants 
Brainard,  Ralston,  and  Private  Whisler;  Kane,  Sergeants  Linn  and  Klison ;  Beaumont,  Corporal  Salor  and 
Privates  Biederbick  and  Connell ;  Ifali,  Privates  Henry  and  Frederick. 

The  amount  hauled  by  each  man,  including  the  weight  of  the  sledges,  was  about  75  pounds.  'I'he 
unfortunate  members  of  the  i)arty,  who,  from  physical  defects  or  otherwise,  were  debarred  from  i)articipating 
in  these  expeditions,  showed  their  encouragement  and  appreciation  of  this  work  by  giving  us  three  heivrty 
cheers  (with  a  "tiger"),  and  by  firing  a  salute  as  we  moveil  away  from  the  station.  The  commanding  ofVicer 
and  Lieutenant  Lockwood  accompanied  us  as  far  as  Dutch  Island.  We  found  tlvj  traveling  excellent,  and 
by  10.55  p.  m.  we  had  reached  Cape  Murchison  (depot  A),  having  made  but  two  halts  since  leaving  the 
station.  The  men  not  feeling  at  all  hungry,  turned  into  their  respective  bags  without  preparing  supper. 
Temperature,  —32.0°  [  —35.6"  C.]. 

April \. — The  cook  (Connell)  was  called  at  12.45  p.  m.,  and  soon  after  2  o'clock  we  partook  of  a 
substantial  meal  of  stewed  corned-beef,  hard  bread,  and  tea.  The  party  appears  to  be  in  excellent  spirits, 
although  several  complain  of  their  inability  to  sleep  last  night,  owing  to  the  too  ihorrugh  ventilation  of  their 
sleeping-bags.  The  sudden  change  from  our  well-heated  quarters  at  Fort  Conger  to  a  minimum  temperature 
of —41°  [—40.6°  C]  in  tents  and  sleeping-bags  will  probably  account  for  the  absence  of  sleep  last  night. 
We  increased  our  loads  to  90  jiounds  each  and  resumed  our  march  towards  Cape  Heechey  at  3  p.  m.  The 
traveling  across  St.  Patrick  Bay  was  excellent.  Tlie  late  storm  has  blown  oft"  all  the  snow,  leaving  a  thick, 
smooth  crust,  over  which  the  sledges  glided  easily.  On  reaching  the  north  side  of  the  bay  we  encountered 
a  fresh  northeast  wind,  accompanied  by  light  snow.  When  about  two  miles  north  of  this  bay  the  traveling 
became  very  heavy,  in  consequence  of  deej)  snow.  At  Brenta  Hay,  however,  it  was  somewhat  better.  We 
reached  depot  B  at  8.45  p.  m.,  the  party  feeling  very  much  fatigued  after  their  tramp  through  the  deep  snow. 


1i 


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216 


THE  LADY   FItANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


Supper  was  eaten  at  lo  o'clock,  and  we  bc^.m  immediately  afterwards  to  prepare  the  provisions  in  the  depot 
for  trans|)ortation  across  Robeson  Cliannd  to  the  Greenland  coast.  Wind  increased  in  velocity  at  10-30 
]).  m.  Rice  and  Jens  arrived  from  the  station  at  1 1.30,  with  a  sledjje-runner  to  replace  the  one  broken  on 
their  sledge  near  Cape  Union  several  days  ago.     'remperature,  —29.0"  {—ii-'f  ^'-J- 

yl/ri/  c,. — Having  completed  as  nuich  of  our  work  as  c:oi;ld  be  accomplished  at  once,  we  retired  to  our 
sleejjing-bags  at  1 2.30  a.  m.  Four  of  the  party  occupied  the  small  snow  house  recently  constructed,  and 
eight  the  large  one  built  last  autumn.  Lieutenant  Lock  wood,  Sergeant  Jewell,  and  the  driver,  Christiansen, 
arrived  with  a  loaded  dog-sledge  at  3  o'clock,  having  left  the  station  at  9  last  evening.  At  2.30  p.  m.  dinner 
was  served  to  all.  Rice  and  Jens  left  soon  after  for  Cape  irniop,  taking  with  them  the  large  sledge-runner. 
The  wind  has  been  increasing  in  velocity,  and  I  am  afraid  their  tri])  may  result  disastrously.  The  tin  cases 
■  were  removed  from  preserved  meats,  which  are  now  solidly  frozen,  and  other  preparations  made  for  the 
start.  Botli  parties  left  the  depot  at  the  same  time  (8.25  p.  m.),  and  journeyetl  up  the  coast  together  towards 
Caj)e  Heechey.     'J'he  loads  were  increased  to  about  130  pounds  per  man.     Traveling  fair. 

April  6, — Arrived  at  Cape  lieechey  and  crossed  the  ice-foot  to  tlie  tloe  at  12.05  a.  m.  The  time  occu- 
j)ied  in  traveling  over  the  same  route  iluring  my  former  trip  to  this  place,  with  the  Knglish  8-inan  sledge 
and  hauling  100  pounds  each,  was  four  and  one-half  hours.  The  conditions  of  traveling  appear  to  be  about 
the  same  as  they  were  at  that  time,  but  our  loads  are  thirty  pounds  heavier  than  before ;  iience,  this  would 
seem  to  indicate  that  the  Hudson  Hay  sledges  are  to  be  preferred  for  this  work.  Whisler  comi)lained  of 
feeling  !"  soon  after  leaving  the  Cape,  but  insisted  on  retaining  his  jjlace  in  the  drag-ropes,  although  his 
presence  was  obviously  detrimental  to  the  others.  He  grew  rapidly  worse,  and,  as  we  moved  but  slowly,  I 
sent  him  forward  to  the  wall  tent  which  I  had  left  pitched  on  the  floe  last  month,  and  at  which  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  now  was.  A  light  wind  from  the  northeast,  together  with  the  temperature  of —49.0"  [  —  45.0'^  C.J, 
rendered  the  traveling  anything  but  agreeable  to  any  of  us.  Camped,  at  3.15  a.  m.,  at  the  wall  tent.  Sup- 
per served  at  5.30.  The  regulated  scale  of  rations  for  i)arties  in  the  field  took  effect  this  morning,  and  with 
rather  disagreeable  results,  which,  however,  were  not  wholly  unexpected.  The  allowance  of  alcohol  was 
not  nearly  sufficient  to  bring  the  chocolate  to  the  boiling  j)oint,  and  our  stew  of  corned-beef  and  hard-bread 
crumbs  was  just  barely  warm.  The  regulation  /////  of  fluid  was  not  at  all  satisfactory,  neither  is  it  suflicient 
for  the  tired,  hungry,  and  chilly  men  who  have  been  laboring  and  perspiring  incessantly  for  hours  in  this 
temperature. 

P.  ^f. — Aroused  the  cook  (Ralston)  at  5  p.  ni.,  and  breakfast  was  served  to  us  at  7  o'clock.  The 
cook's  duties  were  made  very  irksome  and  painful  this  morning  owing  to  the  low  tem])erature  and  his  tender 
fingers,  which  were  repeatedly  frosted.  Henry  is  complaining  of  rheumatic  pains,  and  asserts  that  one  of 
his  knees  is  sprained  and  that  he  cannot  proceed  farther.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  ordered  him  to  return  to 
the  station,  and  he  accordingly  turned  back  at  8  o'clock.  Started  with  the  sledges  at  8.25  \\.  m.  Traveling 
fair.  Connell,  having  unfortunately  fro/en  one  of  his  great  toes  in  the  sleeping-bag  last  night,  was  urged  by 
some  to  go  back  at  once,  but,  with  characteristic  pluck,  he  took  his  usual  place  in  the  <lrag-ropes,  although 
limping  painfully.  He  hobbled  along  for  some  time  on  his  blistered  feet  in  this  manner,  but  was  at  last 
com))elled  to  fall  out  and  turn  back  to  Fort  Conger,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  taking  him  with  the  dog-sledge 
as  far  as  Cajjc  IJeechey.  Fresh  wind  from  the  northwest,  but  as  it  was  not  directly  in  our  faces  we  were 
inconvenienced  very  little  thereby.  We  left  the  main  road  at  11.25  !'•  '"■  '^"''  shaped  our  course  directly 
towards  Cape  Sumner.     AMiisler  is  now  cpiite  well  again. 

A/>ri/  7. — After  changing  our  course  we  encountered  a  broad,  rolling  floe,  with  very  little  snow  to  ob- 
struct the  sledges,  and,  taking  advantage  of  tiie  opportunity  here  offered,  pusiied  forward  at  a  rattling  pace 
for  four  miles,  when  the  floe  terminated  abruptly,  and  we  were  floundering  almost  helplessly  about  in  a  tangle 
of  rubble-ice.  To  add  to  our  embarrassment  the  sledges  were  being  continually  overturned,  and  often  nearly 
buried  in  deep  snow-drifts.  After  very  slow  and  laborious  i)rogress  we  .it  last  emerged  from  this  execrable 
j)ack,  and  traveled  over  a  floe  which  was  nearly  as  smooth  as  the  one  first  mentioned.  'l"he  men  all  felt 
greatly  fatigued  at  3.45  a.  nn,  so  I  de<ide<'  to  cauij)  at  that  time,  selecting  for  that  ])urpose  a  large  berg 
which  extended  promises  of  protection  from  the  high  winds  whiih  have  prevailed  all  day.  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  arrived  in  camp  with  the  dog-team  at  5  o'clock,  and  supper  was  served  soon  after.  All  were  in 
their  sleeping-bags  at  6. 

/'.  .)A — The  cook  arose  at  5.10  p.  m.  and  disc  overed  that  the  dogs  had  forced  their  way  into  the  tent 
during  the  higiu  and  had  stolen  the  meat  intended  for  our  breakfast.     While  eating  our  stew  of  hard  bread 


Tim  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


217 


an<l  water  (without  moat),  soon  after,  many  threats  were  made  against  the  faithful  brutes  who  had  unwit- 
ting;!)' deprived  us  of  a  breakfast.  'I'Linperature,  — 27.0  (— 32.8'C. |;  brisk  wind  from  the  southwest.  Started 
at  9.55  p.  m.     The  travehng  is  growing  worse,  instead  of  better  as  we  had  expected. 

Aprils. — The  stqrm  increased  in  violence  to  such  an  extent  that  I  deemed  it  imprudent  to  travel 
longer;  so,  calling  a  halt,  we  camped  at  12.30  a,  m.  I  selected  a  position  close  beside  a  huge  floe-berg,  with 
high  vertical  sides,  as  a  very  desirable  place  to  locate  our  tents.  The  full  force  of  the  storm  cannot  reach 
us  here.  Through  some  misun<lerstanding  on  their  part,  Hiederbick  and  Salor  had  been  separated  from  us 
during  the  progress  of  the  storm,  and  I  now  began  to  feel  alarmed  regarding  their  safety.  Taking  one  of 
the  revolvers,  to  be  used  as  a  means  of  signaling,  I  started  out  in  search  of  them,  first  instructing  tliose  in 
camp  to  re|)ly  to  any  shots  that  they  might  hear,  in  order  that  I  could  find  my  way  back  to  the  tents  should 
I  get  bewildered  or  should  my  tracks  become  covered  by  the  blinding  drift.  Choosing  a  direction  whicli  I 
thought  would  leail  me  across  their  trail,  I  followed  it  by  coni|)ass  for  about  a  mile,  when  I  found  their  tracks. 
These  I  followed  eagerly  for  some  time,  occasionally  losing  them  where  they  were  either  blown  out  of  exist- 
ence or  covered  by  the  drifting  snow.  At  last  I  found  them,  but  their  condition  was  even  more  pitiable  than 
1  had  anticipated.  They  hinl  burrowed  in  a  snow-bank,  with  the  aid  of  a  small  sheath-knife,  and  had  noth- 
ing but  a  rubber  blanket  to  protect  themselves  from  the  chilling  winds.  I  guided  them  back  to  camp, 
taking  with  us  their  sledge.  We  are  greatly  concerned  about  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  who  parted  com])any 
with  us  this  morning,  but  there  may  be  no  occasion  for  serious  apprehension,  as  he  carried  tent  and  sleejiing- 
bag  in  his  e(|uipinent.  Supper  at  3.45  a.  ni.  At  this  time  the  wind  is  increasing  in  velocity,  and  the  air  is 
so  filled  with  drifting  snow  as  to  prevent  us  from  seeing  the  other  tent,  which  is  only  a  few  yards  away.  We 
retired  to  our  sleei)ing-bags  at  4.15  a.  m.  Every  one  is  feeling  wretched  from  the  effects  of  the  severe  toil 
of  the  day.  At  8.45  p.  ni.  another  meal  was  served  to  us.  As  usual,  the  tea  did  not  boil,  and  the  last  drop 
of  fuel  was  consumed  before  the  stew  had  fixirly  thrown  off  its  chill.  The  storm  had  increased  to  a  gale 
during  the  day  and  yet  rages  with  undiminished  fury,  threatening  each  moment  to  tear  down  our  tents  and 
carry  them  bodily  away.    There  is,  evidently,  no  chance  for  a  move  to-day.    The  temperature  is  rising. 

April  9. — There  is  no  indication  at  present  ( i  a.  m.)  of  a  subsidence  of  the  storm.  Despite  the  protection 
afforded  us  by  the  friendly  floe-bergs,  we  were  at  all  times  expecting  the  tent  to  be  torn  from  its  fastenings,  but 
to  our  surprise  it  has  bravely  stood  the  great  strain  to  which  it  has  been  subjected.  It  has,  I  think,  become 
materially  strengthened  in  consequence  of  the  huge  drifts  which  have  formed  all  about  us.  Although  these 
drifts  afford  greater  security  to  the  tent,  they  are,  nevertheless,  very  inconvenient  to  us,  as  they  press  in  the 
sides  of  the  tent  in  such  a  manner  as  to  render  our  position  both  cramped  and  awkward.  The  full  force  of 
the  storm  cannot  be  felt  here  in  our  sheltered  position,  but,  notwithstanding  this,  the  observer  estimates  the 
full  velocity  at  60  miles  per  hour  [26.8'"  per  second '  The  barometer  is  slowly  rising,  and  we  are  hopeful 
of  good  results. 

The  barometer  is  now  (at  8  p.  m.)  stationary,  and  the  temperature  has  risen  to  +2.0"  [—16.7"  C.]. 
Supper  was  served  at  8.05  o'clock.  The  wind  had  now  abated  somewhat,  and  our  spirits  rose  at  the  thought 
of  speedily  leaving  this  miserable  place,  which  has  failed  to  furnish  us  with  one  moment  of  comfort  since  our 
arrival.  We  have  been  in  our  damp  bags  for  about  forty-five  hours,  and  during  that  time  we  have  been  sur- 
rounded by  discomforts  that  are  indescribable,  and  can  be  apjjreciated  only  when  one  has  passe<l  through  a  . 
similar  experience.  At  9  p.  m.  we  again  started  with  our  sledges;  a  brisk  wind  blowing  against  our  backs 
was  of  material  assistance  in  driving  along  the  sledges,  although  occasionally  upsetting  them.  We  met  Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood  not  more  than  two  miles  away  from  camp,  with  Christiansen  and  his  team.  On  com- 
paring notes  we  learned  that  he  had  reached  Cape  Sumner  about  the  time  the  storm  began,  on  the  evening 
of  the  7th,  and  that  he  had  hastily  built  a  snow  house  for  himself  and  Christiansen,  under  the  face  of  the 
cliffs  overlooking  Newman  Bay,  and  had  remained  there  until  this  morning.  He  went  back  to  bring  up  the 
loatl  which  he  abandoned  on  the  floe  at  our  second  camp  southwest  from  here.  The  sun  dipped  nearly  to 
the  horizon  at  midnight;  then,  lising  again  slowly,  began  its  circuit  aljout  in  the  heavens.  This  is  the  first 
time  this  year  that  the  sun  has  been  above  the  horizon  at  midnight  in  this  latitude. 

April  10. — We  reached  Cape  Sumner  at  4.30  a.  m.,  and  the  boat  camp  of  the  Polaris  expedition,  on  the 
southern  sliore  of  Newman  IJay,  at  7  o'clock.  The  snow-slopes  between  the  cape  and  this  camp  were  very 
abrupt  and  difficult  to  pass  over.  The  party  uas  nearly  exhausted  on  entering  camp,  but  were  in  good 
spirits.  The  .sledges  were  in  rather  a  dilapidated  condition  in  consetjuence  of  their  encounters  with  the 
sm.dl  i)ieces  of  rubble-ice.  Bfiuiiiuyiit,  especially,  is  badly  broken ;  its  bow  is  crushed  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
render  it  entirely  useless  for  all  further  work  in  rough  ice.    It  Could,  however,  be  used  for  a  few  days  on 


■I 


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218 


THE  LADY  FKAXKLIN  BAY  FA'PEDITION. 


smooth  ice,  or  in  ilecp  snow.  Our  camp  is  in  a  windy  ])lace,  near  the  mouth  of  a  large  ravine,  down  which 
the  wind  ruslies  in  gusts  and  whirls  with  such  velocity  as  to  occasionally  upset  the  tent.  In  the  melee  of 
till-  cknionts  the  ridge -pole  of  our  tent  was  broken  and  everything  thrown  into  confusion.  I  discovered 
llie  tent  left  by  the  /'>/iiris  party,  at  the  entrance  to  a  small  ravine  not  far  from  our  camp,  'i'hcir  boat  is 
lying  bottom  u|)  in  our  immediate  vicinity.  The  tent  was  blown  down  and  contained  nothing  but  a  few 
rounds  of  rille  anuiumition,  old  clothi's,  tin  ware,  boots,  itc. 

IJrcakfast  was  served  to  us  at  lo  a.  m.,  and  immediately  afterward  we  crawled  into  our  comfortless 
sleeping  bags  for  a  few  hours'  rest,  feeling  in  our  minds  that  the  tent  was  perfectly  secure.  Our  slumbers 
were  rudely  disturbed  at  5  p.  m.  by  one  of  the  violent  whirlwinds,  which  again  broke  the  ridge-pole  of  our 
tent  and  brought  the  lanvas  down  on  the  sleeping  forms  inside.  We  endeavored  to  repair  the  damage,  but 
in  vain ;  the  fury  of  the  storm  would  not  again  jjcrmit  us  to  erect  the  tent.  The  alternative  left  us  was  to 
build  a  snow  hou^e  in  the  huge  snow-slopes  near  by.  This  was  comi>leted  at  n.15  j).  m.  'I'hc  work  of 
excavating  the  sno>v-bank  was  not  iiccomplished  without  great  hardships  and  disagreeable  results.  The 
storm  raged  worse  than  at  any  previous  time,  the  flying  snow  completely  blinding  those  who  were  working 
on  the  outside  entrance  and  forcing  them  to  abandon  their  work  at  intervals.  An  attem()t  had  been  made 
to  cook  su|)per  in  the  wreck  of  our  tent,  but  in  the  confusion  the  lamp  was  overturned  and  our  ration  of 
alcohol  lost.  As  no  allowance  is  made  for  wasted  fuel  we  consoled  ourselves  for  the  loss  of  a  warm  meal 
ly  partaking  of  a  lunch  of  frozen  meat  and  hard  bread. 

A/ri/  1 1. — Creat  difficulty  was  experienced  in  transferring  our  effects  from  the  tent  to  the  snow  house. 
Slec|)ing-bags,  rubber  blankets,  cooking  apparatus,  and  other  camp  paraphernalia  were  wrenched  away  from 
the  strongest  men  and  carried  rapidly  along  the  ground  by  the  wind  towards  the  ice-foot,  being  jxirsueil  by 
a  crowd  of  anxious  men  who  realized  that  their  comfort  and  perhaps  their  safety  depended  upon  the  reten- 
tion of  these  articles.  A  few  articles  of  tin-w.arc  of  minor  importance  were  the  only  things  lost;  the  others 
were  rescued  at  the  ice-foot  three  hundred  yards  [274"')  from  the  tent.  An  ordinary  .■\  tent,  used  by  Sergeant 
I. inn  and  his  three  companions,  was  torn  from  its  fiistenings  and  carried  away  bodily  by  the  wind.  Several  of 
the  large  iron  pins  were  drawn  from  the  fro/en  earth,  and  great  seams  were  opened  in  the  lower  edge  of  the 
canvas.  The  occupants  were  shnnbering  i)eacefully  in  their  bags  when  the  shock  came,  and,  standing  at  a 
distance,  we  saw  the  tent  when  it  began  its  pilgrimage  across  the  country.  Before  the  confusion  had  subsided 
their  heads  began  ])0[)ping  up  from  the  depths  •f  their  sleeping-bags,  and  the  look  of  consternation  depicted 
on  their  faces,  while  their  eyes  were  turned  /ougi^t;/)'  in  the  direction  of  the  rapidly  retreating  tent,  was  most 
ludicrous.     It  now  became  their  turn  to  dig  a  snow  house  from  the  bank  near  the  clitTs. 

Breakfast  was  served  in  our  new  quarters  at  3  a.  m.     The  tea  was  weak  and  the  stew  of  lime-juice 
])emnii(an  was  cold  and  unpalatable;  consefjuently  it  was  rejected  by  all  except  one  (Whisler).     This  is 
rather  consoling  lo  us,  having  fasted  for  nearly  twenty  hours,  during  which  time  we  have  been  performing 
severe  labor  in  keen,  bracing,  outside  ai"-,  and  are  very  hungry. 
In  sleei)ing-bags  again  at  3.30  a.  m.;  the  wind  still  high. 

.\t  7  p.  ni.  Wiiisler  is  com|)laining  with  soreness  and  severe  |)ains  in  his  chest  and  is  also  spitting  blood. 
Biederbick  has  done  all  in  his  power  to  alleviate  his  sufferings  with  our  slender  stock  of  medicines,  but  his 
condition  is  still  precarious.  He  fainted  as  soon  .is  he  came  in  contact  with  the  cold  outside  air,  but  he 
recovered  in  a  few  minutes  and  crawled  b.ick  into  the  hut.  Bieilerbick  is  also  in  a  critical  state.  I  found 
him  lying  on  the  dog-sleilge  near  the  entrance  to  the  hut,  vomiting  and  apparently  in  great  pain.  All  were 
similarly  affected  with  the  exce|)tion  of  fainting.  These  conditions  are  probably  due  to  improper  ventilation, 
an<l  the  absence  of  oxygen  in  the  snow  house.  The  cooking-lamp  refused  to  burn,  and  the  matches  died 
out  immediately  after  being  ignited,  although  free  from  dampness.  The  sleeping-bags  were  so  damp  and 
cold  that  none  of  us  could  obtain  the  sleep  or  rest  which  we  so  greatly  desired.  The  wind  apjjcars  to  be 
gradually  dying  away. 

April  12. — Lieutenant  Lockwood  directed  Biederbick  and  Whisler  to  return  to  Fort  Conger  for  medical 
treatment.  The  former  begged  hard  to  be  allowed  to  .accompany  us,  but  the  necessity  of  his  immediate  return 
to  the  station  w.is  obvious  to  all.  The  storm  has  subsided  somewhat,  but  a  brisk  wind  is  still  blowing.  The 
men  feel  weak  from  their  ex])erience  of  last  evening,  and  become  exhausted  after  the  most  moderate  exertion. 
At  12.15  a.  m.  we  left  with  the  sledges,  en  route  to  the  (lap  for  provisions,  the  sick  men  accompanying 
us  as  far  as  Cape  Sumner,  where  our  roads  diverged.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  soon  foUoweil  us  with  the  dog- 
sledge.  We  returned  to  camp  at  4.30  p.  m. ;  Lieutenant  Lockwood  arrived  at  6.15  o'clock.  Not  desiring 
a  repetition  of  yesterday's  experiences  in  the  snow  house  we  had  again  pitched  the  tent  and  loaded  down 


M 


TIIK  LADY  FIIANKMN  HAY  KXIMCDITION. 


219 


the  corners  with  rocks  aii<l  j;r.ivi'l,  in  addition  to  the  strong;  lariats  whicli  form  a.  network  over  tlie  lo|)  anil 
sides.  The  wind  haviii);  fallen  soniuwiiat  a  good  iiij;ht's  rest  was  proniised  us,  without  fear  of  haviiij;  the 
tent  knocked  down  over  our  iieads.  Sujiper  was  served  at  8.30,  and  at  10  p.  ni.  we  turned  into  our  sleeping- 
l)ags,  twenty-eight  hours  having  elapsed  since  we  left  them  last  night  to  prejiare  for  tlie  trip  to  tlie  Ciap. 

//////  13. —  I  called  the  ( ook  at  5  a,  ni.,  and  lireakfast  was  announced  at  7.  It  was  a  great  relief  to  us 
to  get  up  this  morning,  as  none  had  been  able  to  sleej)  owing  to  the  frozen  state  of  our  sleeping-bags.  .So 
far  as  comfort  was  concerned  we  might  just  as  well  have  been  iniased  in  iron  lings  as  in  those  we  oi  cupied. 
The  alhuiance  of  alcohol  w.is  not  salisf.ictory  at  all  for  the  morning's  meal.  The  stew  was  <old,  and  an 
occasional  lump  of  ice  was  broii;  ht  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  dish  to  remind  us  that  we  could  not  expec  t 
the  comforts  of  a  civili/ed  life  in  these  regions.  I.ieutvn.mt  l.ockwood  left  willi  the(h)g-team  at  i2..\e,  \).  111.  for 
I'ort  Conger,  for  the  purpose  of  exchanging  the  unserviceable  sledge-runners  now  in  use  on  the  dog  sledge 
for  another  .ind  stronger  pair.  I  left  for  Cajie  Sumner  with  the  jiarty,  hauling  Hudson  Hay  sledges,  at  1 2.45 
!>.  m.,  to  transport  the  provisions  cache<l  at  that  |ioint  to  our  camp  at  this  place.  l'',ach  sledge  hauled  two 
loads,  the  last  being  completed  at  .|.  o'cloc  k.  We  exposed  our  sleeping-bags  and  damp  clothing  to  the  sun 
and  wind  to-day,  in  order  that  their  excessive  moisture  might,  in  a  measure,  be  evaporated.  The  cook  called 
us  to  Slipper  at  7.30  p.  m.,  and  at  10  o'clock  we  retired  to  our  bags, 

/l/iri/  14. — The  wind  again  rose  during  the  night,  and,  ns  before,  our  slimibers  were  abru])tly  disturbed 
by  the  ridge-pole  of  the  tent  breaking  and  falling  u]ion  us.  We  made  temporary  repairs,  but  did  not  attempt 
to  sleep  again  for  fear  of  a  similar  accident.  Ikeakfast  was  served  at  7.30  a.  m.,  and  was  greatly  enjoyed, 
owing  to  the  satisfactory  result  produced  by  the  ration;.  '«f  fuel.  I  left  camp  with  the  party  at  9  a.  m.  for 
the  (lap,  taking  two  Hudson  liay  sledges,  with  which  to  haul  u,.  'he  remainder  of  the  supjilies  left  by  us  at 
that  place.  Klison  was  instructed  to  remain  in  camp  to  expose  and  ci.v  the  slee])ing-bags,  and  to  look  after 
matters  generally  during  our  absence.  Soon  after  rounding  Cape  Sumne  i  southwest  g  ;le  was  encountered, 
which  was  so  strong  as  to  almost  render  our  advance  impossible.  We  wet '.  fre(piently  lorced  backward,  and 
dozens  of  times  we  were  brought  to  a  dead  halt.  U'e  soon  discovered  tint  the  only  manner  in  which  we 
could  travel  at  all  was  to  bend  the  body  forward  until  it  was  nearly  horizontal  and  then  jiush  forward  witli 
all  our  strength  and  energy.  Huge  rocks,  started  from  the  precipitous  cliffs  by  the  wind  and  slight  thaws, 
came  crashing  down  on  the  ice-foot  in  our  immediate  vicinity,  greatly  endangering  our  lives  and  warning  us 
that  traveling  in  close  proximity  to  the  shore  was  altogether  too  dangerous  to  be  persisted  m. 

At  12.30  ]).  m.  we  reached  the  cache,  and  started  on  our  return  at  i  o'clock.  Our  greatest  difl'iculty 
now  was  to  avoid  the  sledges,  which  were  fretpiently  driven  on  our  heads  by  the  wind  when  passing  over 
the  surface  of  a  smooth  floe.  While  j)assing  one  of  the  numerous  ravines  in  Polaris  Promontory  we  dis- 
covered a  beautiful  snow  cascade,  which  we  at  first  mistook  for  a  small  volume  of  water.  It  was  formed  by 
the  wind,  which,  rushing  down  a  narrow,  rocky  cut  in  the  face  of  the  abrupt  cliffs,  carried  with  it  a  small 
volume  of  snow,  which,  leajiing  from  rock  to  rock  in  its  descent,  reminded  me  of  the  beautiful  silver  cascades 
which  I  have  seen  in  the  National  Park  of  the  Yellowstone.  Reached  camp  at  5.15  p.  m.  Klison  reports 
that  high  winds  have  prevailed  all  day  in  camp,  and  that  his  patience  as  well  as  his  jjowers  ot  tr.durance 
were  sorely  tried  in  endeavoring  to  prevent  the  tents  and  sleeping-bags  from  blowing  away.  The  bags  were 
torn  from  the  rocks  which  had  been  placed  on  their  corners  and  sides  to  hold  them  down,  and  were  rolled 
away  to  the  ice-foot,  where  they  were  finally  rescued  by  this  indefatigable  individual.  Supper  was  eaten  at 
7.30,  and  within  the  next  half-hour  all  were  (piictly  slumbering  in  their  bags. 

y1/>n/  15.— We  were  called  to  breakfast  at  9.30  a.  m.  As  there  are  no  provisions  to  be  hauled  from 
the  Cap  we  remained  in  camp  all  day,  preparing  rations  for  our  trij)  to  the  northward.  Among  other 
things  done  to-day,  the  tin  cases  were  removed  from  the  preserved  meats,  alcohol  cans  were  filled,  and  the 
hard  bread  put  in  small  bags,  each  bag  representing  a  certain  number  of  rations  for  the  entire  party.  At 
7.15  ]).  ni.,  and  only  a  f  w  nnr.uiMs  after  v.e  had  finished  supper,  Lieutenant  l.ockwood  returned  Irom  l''ort 
C^onger  with  the  entire  [KAt  .)!  ruiniers.  li.'  also  brought  a  few  articles  of  wearing  apparel  which  our  friends 
were  thoughtful  enough  to  send.  A  v'y  oigh  southerly  wind  has  been  blowing  all  day.  We  received 
several  letters  from   lu;  friends  at  Fort  t  o"  ;,or,  per  the  Arctic  mail.     Retired  at  9.20  p.  m. 

yl/nV  16. — Tl.(.  ( ')ok  was  calKd  .:l  ^30  a.  m.,  and  breakfast  was  finished  at  8.15.  High  winds  pre- 
vailed .all  night;  otca-.ionally  a  whidwinu  vvas  introduced,  by  way  of  varii  ty,  which  caused  great  ajiprehension 
regarding  the  safety  of  our  teni.  Immediately  after  breakfast  I  turned  out  all  hands  to  repair  the  sledges. 
Jiiaiimoiit  was  found  to  be  hojielessly  b'oken ;  Kant-  was  also  rejected  as  unserviceable.  Hall  is  still  in  good 
condition,  and,  with  a  \:w  repairs,  Ifayc  will  yet  do  excellent  service.     The  extra  runners  which  Lieutenant 


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220 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Lockwood  brougiit  from  Fort  Conger,  were  fitted  with  cross  ties  or  slats  and  named  the  Nan-s.  At  3.30 
p.  r.i  dinner  was  served  to  us  by  the  indefatigable  cook,  and  immediately  afterwards  the  work  of  packing 
the  sledges  began.  All  tents,  sleeping  bags,  and  provisions  not  absolutely  required  for  the  journey  were 
packed  carefully  p.way  in  the  Polaris  whale-boat  for  our  return. 

A  light  lunch  was  serv^.l  at  9.15  p.  ni, ;  the  tents  were  then  taken  down  and  placed  on  the  sledges,  and 
at  12.24  we  started.  We  shajied  our  course  diagonally  across  Newman  Hay  towards  the  small  opening  in 
tlie  hills  which  we  have  decided  is  (jap  Valley,  the  sledges  in  the  following  order :  Lieutenant  Lockwood, 
with  Christiansen  and  dog-sledge  .•///A'/«(7'/ir' ,•  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Ralston  and  Corporal  Salor,  sledge 
Xiiiri:,  with  about  220  pounds  each;  Sergeant  Jewell  and  Private  Frederick,  sledge  Hall,  150  pounds 
each;  Sergeants  Linn  and  Elison,  sledge  Hayes,  with   150  pounds  each.     The  traveling  is  excellent. 

April  1 7. — The  temperature  fell  to  —  9  |  —  22.8"  C. ]  at  midnight.  At  3  a.  m.  N^airs  dragged  so  heavily 
over  the  small  drifts  that  it  became  necessarv  to  employ  Linn  and  I'Viison  in  the  drag-ropes  in  order  to 
advance  it  at  all.  This  left  only  Jewell  an.!  Frederick  to  advance  alternately  the  other  two  sledges  until  we 
should  return  to  tiieir  relief.  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  having  preceded  us  to  the  entrance  of  the  valley  with 
the  dog-team,  now  returned  with  it  to  our  assistance.  At  6.30  a.  ni.  we  reached  the  entrance  to  the  vall-.-y 
and  at  once  prepared  to  make  ourselves  comfortable  for  the  night.  Retiied  at  9.30,  having  been  out  of 
the  bags  for  twenty-six  hours.  The  cook  was  awakened  at  6.30  p.  m.  Breakfasted  on  lime-juice  pemniican, 
hanl  bread,  and  tea.  We  had  an  excellent  night's  rest,  probably  the  most  refreshing  and  satisfactory  that 
we  have  experienced  s'-ice  leaving  Fort  Conger.  Calm,  light  snow  falling,  and  the  temperature,  —3 
[-19.40  C.]. 

Left  camp  with  N'arcs  at  10.15,  having  five  men  in  the  drag-ropes.  Hall  followed  closely  with  two 
inen.  Hayes  was  left  standing  in  camp  to  be  returned  for  later.  The  traveling  was  heavy,  and  great 
<iuantities  of  gravel  were  occasionally  met  with,  which  would  re(piire  standing  pulls.  At  one  point  the 
valley  became  quite  narrow  and  the  cliffs  on  either  side  very  high  and  nearly  vertical.  From  this  place  we 
returned  for  Hayes,  meeiing  the  two  men  with  Hall,  struggling  along  slowly  and  laboriously  through  the 
dirty  and  sandlike  snow.  This  method  of  alternately  advancing  the  sledges  was  continued  all  day  with 
particularly  favorable  results.     Snow  ceased  falling  at  11.30  p.  m. 

April  18. — At  3.30  a.  m.  we  met  Christiansen,  who  was  returning  by  the  direction  of  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  to  our  old  camp  for  the  remainder  of  his  load.  He  brought  a  note  to  me  from  the  lieutenant 
which  stated  that  he  had  advanced  for  four  hours,  that  the  traveling  was  very  heavy,  and  that  he  was  of  the 
opinion  that  the  diviile  was  not  far  away.  I  called  a  halt  at  6.30  r  m.  and  made  camp  under  the  shelter- 
ing point  of  a  ledge  of  rocks,  where  we  were,  in  a  measure,  i)rote(:led  from  the  <Iirect  force  of  the  winds. 
High,  northeast  wind  which  drifts  heavily.  Everyone  is  very  tired.  'I'iie  highly  arduous  duties  of  cook 
fell  to  my  lot  this  morning,  and  I  at  once  distinguished  myself  by  burning  the  stew.  'J'he  cook  is  the  only 
one  who  is  compelled  to  remain  out  in  the  cold;  the  others  re|)air  to  their  slcejiing-bags  as  soon  as  the  tent 
is  pitched  and  banked,  thus  |ireventing  any  uii'.'.'cessary  exposure.  When  the  meal  is  ready,  (he  men  are 
aroused  I)y  the  cook  who  hands  each  one  his  cup  of  tea  or  chocolate  and  his  i)late  of  hash.  They  always 
sit  upright  in  the  sleejjing-bag  w.ih  the  lower  extremities  covered  vi  ,iile  i)artaking  of  their  meals. 

Temperature  remains  about  stationary  at  — lo.o"  1—23.3°  ^-l- 

J\  M- — Left  cam|)  at  10.35,  f'''^l  advancing  Nares,  with  the  entire  i)arty  in  the  drag-ropes.  The  (jther 
sledges  were  tiien  advanced  for  a  considerable  distance,  when  we  again  returned  for  Nans,  which  was 
advanced  alternately  with  the  .smaller  sledges,  as  yesterday.  The  traveling  is  much  worse  than  at  the  point 
of  entrance  to  the  valley;  the  snow  is  much  deeper  in  places,  and  great  patches  of  bare  ground  are  often 
encoiuitered,  over  which  our  sledges  must  be  hauled  at  a  great  exjiendilure  of  human  power  and  energy.  A 
strong  southerly  wind  blows  di.ectly  in  our  faces  when  we  return  for  the  rear  sledges,  and  the  snow,  falling 
in  small,  round  pellets,  ranles  against  our  benumbeci  faces  like  pigeon-shot,  causing  a  smarting  and  i)ainful 
sensation,  which  does  not  tend  to  i-'ijirove  our  temi)ers,  already  sorely  tried. 

Apriil  19. — Lieutenant  Lockwood's  camp  of  yesterday  was  passeil  at  2.45  a,  ni.  with  the  two  small 
sledges,  and  Nares  was  brought  to  the  same  spot  at  4  o'clock.  I  fnul  that  wx-  have  been  thirteen  and  one- 
half  hoiMS  in  traveling  over  the  .same  route  which  Lieutenant  Lockwood  traveled  with  the  dog-team  in 
only  four  hours.  The  traveling  has  improve<l  somewhat,  but  it  is  still  fir  from  what  we  should  like.  A  crust 
covers  the  surface  of  the  snow,  which  is  neither  strong  enough  to  bear  our  weight  when  hauling,  nor  weak 
enough  to  break  easily  at  the  appro;;ch  of  the  sledge-.nmners.     Camped  at  fi.  35  a.  m.  on  a  large  drift  in  the 


THE  LADY  FJIANKLIN   I5AY  KM'KDITION. 


221 


river-Iicd.  T-iglit,  southeast  wind,  ami  tuiiipeialuie  of  —13.0"  [  —  25.0°  C.J  at  tlic  time.  Snow  ceased  falling 
at  8  o'lloek-  hum,  who  olViciated  as  cok  this  morning,  served  us  with  a  meal  of  raw  peunuiean,  hard 
bread,  and  tea.  Owing  to  the  preseiu  e  of  the  sharp,  acrid,  and  uni)alalal)le  limes  in  the  pennuiean  we  fmd 
it  utterly  iniijossihl J  to  make  use  of  it  in  any  manner  excei)t  in  its  raw  state.  When  prei)ared  in  the  form 
of  ^,  stew  tiie  vile  nature  of  the  limes  ( oiilained  in  this  ])emmican  is  so  pronounced  that  it  is  rejected  l)y  all. 
Several  complain  tluit  their  mouths  ha\e  been  made  sore  by  eating  this  incongruous  comj)ound. 

/'.  .1/. — Breakfast  was  finished  at  8.30  o'clock.  Snow  had  fallen  iluring  the  time  that  we  were  sleeping, 
and  continued  to  fall  moderately  all  day.  Calm;  temperature,  -  14.0°  [— 25.6°  t'.J;  minimum  recorded, 
— 15.0"  [— 26.1"  C.].  Several  complain  that  they  were  unable  to  sleep  last  night  owing  to  the  damp 
and  fro/.en  stale  of  the  sleeping-bags.  Mefore  entering,  it  reipiired  the  united  strength  of  three  men  to 
unroll  them,  and  then  we  could  01, ly  gel  U)  their  lower  extremity  by  thawing  them  with  the  warmth  from 
our  bodies. 

Started  at  9.30  p.  m.  and  moved  the  sledges  forward  alternately  as  before.  'The  snow  was  very  deep, 
and  the  sleilges  dragged  their  slats  on  tiie  drifts  almost  continuously.  We  have  occasionally  found  the  valley 
so  narrow  that  the  tops  of  tiie  cliffs  nearly  meet  over  our  heads  while  passing  between  them.  At  a.  point 
where  the  canon  diverged  we  found  a  small  cairn  erected  by  Lieutenant  Lockwixjd  to  indicate  to  us  the 
direction  which  he  had  taken.  We  are  evidently  quite  near  the  divide  now,  as  our  barometer  denotes  that 
our  altitude  is  considerable. 

/i/<n7  20. — There  is  evidently  some  mistake  about  the  length  of  Ciai)  Valley  being  only  ten  miles,  as 
we  have  already  traveled  more  than  that  distance  now,  and  have  only  just  reached  the  ilivide  or  water- 
shed at  this  hour  (2  a.  m.).  Passing  over  the  summit  we  traveled  down  a  gently  rolling  alupc  for  two  miles 
and  entered  the  ravine  or  valley  leading  lo  th"  coast.  The  Uaveling  is  superior  to  any  that  we  have  had 
since  entering  the  valley.  Made  camp  at  5.30.  Jewell  shoulil  have  been  cook,  but  as  he  ajipeared  very 
nuu;h  exhausted,  and  com|)lained  of  sore  feet,  I  relieved  him  from  the  uniileasant  task  and  detailed  Klison 
instead.     Temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  —19.5°  [—28.6°  C.J.     (Jeased  snowing  at  8  o'clock. 

P,  M. — Called  the  cook  at  6.30,  and  breakfast  was  eaten  at  8  o'clock.  About  this  time  Lieutenant 
T  ;/ckwood  arrived  from  his  cani[),  which  is  about  five  miles  from  this  point  and  seven  from  the  coast.  We 
have  yet  twelve  miles  to  travel  before  we  can  leave  this  execrable  valley  behind  us.  Lieutenant  Lockwood 
left  us  at  10.30,  taking  a  large  load  with  the  dog-team  from  one  of  our  sledges,  which  will  enable  us  to 
proceed  without  the  necessity  of  doubling.  Teni[)erature  at  1 1  o'clock, —39.5°  [  —  39.7°  ('.J.  Mininnim 
reconled,  —40.0°  [—40.0°  C.J.  Started  at  11.15  !'• 'H-i  'i"'l  »i"ved  the  three  sledges  forward  at  one  time 
without  doubling.     It  is  generally  conceded  that  this  is  not  (lap  Valley. 

April  2\. — AVe  traveled  cpiite  rapidly  and  succeeded  in  reaching  Lieutenant  Lockwooil's  camp  at  4.45 
a.  m.,  where  we  remained  for  a  few  minutes  only,  then  again  proceeded  on  our  way.  The  valley,  which  here- 
tofore had  been  a  very  narrow,  rc;ky,  and  tortuous  one,  now  expanded  into  a  broad  and  undulating  plain, 
about  five  miles  in  length  by  three  in  width,  and  shut  in  on  all  sides  by  high,  rugged  nunmtains.  On  fust 
entering  this  valley  the  traveling  was  good,  the  slight  drifts  running  at  right  angles  to  our  course  facilitated 
rather  than  retarded  our  movements,  but  the  last  half  of  the  ilistance  was  accom|)lished  oidy  with  the  severest 
labor,  on  account  of  the  gravel  beds  from  which  the  snow  had  been  swe|)t  clean.  l'"re([uently  we  were 
compelled  to  resort  to  standing  pulls,  and  occasionally  all  the  men  were  recpiired  on  the  large  sledge. 
Wind  from  the  northeast  has  been  blowing  for  some  time  with  a  velocity  of  eighteen  to  twenty  miles  per 
hour  [8.0  to  8.9"'  per  second.j.  At  8.30  a.  m.  we  made  camp  at  the  lower  extremity  of  the  valley,  having 
traveled  9)3  hours,  'I'hc  cook,  Salor,  served  supper  at  11.45  a.  m.  J''^'  temperatme  at  that  time  was 
—6.0"  [—21.1°  C.J,  a  change  of  34"  [18.9°  C.J  in  twelve  hours.  Everybody  is  very  tired  this  morning,  and 
hungry  as  well.     (The  latter  condition  is  chronic.) 

P.  M. — Lieutenant  Lockwood  reached  our  camp  this  evening  wliile  we  were  partaking  of  breakfast, 
about  8.45  o'clock.  He  remained  with  us,  sending  Christiansen  back  for  the  remainder  of  his  load.  We 
will  again  take  the  load  advanced  by  Lockwood  this  morning,  it  being  the  same  that  he  relieveil  us  of 
yeslertlay.  The  high  northeast  wind  continues.  Temi)erature,  —7.0' [  —  21.7"  C.J.  Left  camp  at  11.15  with 
Narcs  and  one  of  the  small  sledges,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  assisting  in  the  drag-ropes  for  a  short  distance. 
The  creek  bed  becoming  im|>assable  made  it  necessary  for  us  to  drag  our  sledges  over  the  execrable  snow- 
slopes.  After  a  great  ileal  of  hard  work  this  was  accomplished,  and  all  tl -•  sledges  were  then  advanced 
together.     IJy  this  time  the  wind  had  increased  in  velocity  to  a  moderate  gale,  and  the  Hying  snow,  driving 


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I ; 


(I- 


oo') 


TlIK  LADY   FUANKlilN  IJAY  liXI'KDITlON. 


iliri'i  lly  ill  our  I'mi  I's  willi  li'iiiCic  Cdii  i',  iviitli'li-'d  pronR'ss  ;ilmusl  iiii|H)ssilili'.  Wc  sliiin^ltd  mIoiih  slowly, 
liowi'vi'v,  tor  M  short  (iislMiiif  wlicii  ;iii  ill  nil  j!  Iiirii  in  tlu'  v.ilky  iMoiif;lit  our  li.uks  to  tlif  wind,  ,iiid  tliin 
wo  tli'w  ;llon^  on  tlu'  sinootli  siiilMit'  with  ;ilniost  iiK  rcdihlc  s|)i.'i'd. 

./////  .'>•. —  Tlu'  j;;ilc'  h;id  Mssunicd  siu  h  iiroporlioiis  :is  to  riiisc  siTious  approhfiisions  for  our  sal'i'ty ;  the 
l■l^ud  of  llyilif;  snow  would  not  piiuiit  us  to  si'o  tlu'  \  aliiy  lor  niori'  lli.in  tifty  yards  |  |(i"'  |  in  atUain  i',  and  we 
kipt  our  (oursf  only  liy  liiliii};  our  way  aloii};  tlu'  inai>;iii  tl  ihc  it  c  in  tiu'  i  riok  lu'd,  At  ^45  •'•  '"■  "*-' 
wen-  highly  gratitii'il  by  riMi  liing  tlu- i(H' loot  on  the  loasi  in  ilu' vicinity  of  ki'iiulsi.'   jlarlior.      Tlu' snow 

up  anain    wiili    tlir   sIimI^i's. 


Ill-Ill;;  \  I'ry  ilv'i'| 


)   and   soft   alonu   tho   icc  loot   it 


iL'iaiiK'  iK'Ci'ssary  ti>  itoul) 


As  till'  storm  showed   no  si^;ns  of  aliatiiig,  and  as  the   iiii'ii  wi're  woll  iii!;li  i-xhaiisU'd,  I  dci  idod  to  <  amp  al 
(i.;,c)  a.  111.  on  tiic  k'r  side  ol  a  larj^c  Hoc  Ik-ij;,  which  1  coiisidcii'il  im|ioilant  in  protci  tin^;  us  from  tlu-  lilmd- 


drift.     At  7. JO  the  lic-utcnant   avrivi'd   with   his  sk-dj 


(.>   Iiaulv  lirokcn   and  camped   m   (uir  imiiu-i 


liali 


\  ICIIIII 


or  uioic  III. Ill  two  iioi 


lis  wf  slnij^gk-d  with  llu-  l>-nl    before  we  <  oiild  m'l  11  fastened  down  to  our 


satisfai  tioii ;  it  was  co\eieil  with  an  intricate  network  of  lariats  and  lashing  lines  to  iire\enl  il  Iroiii  bal- 
looning and  blowing  away.  Si'\eiai  host -bites  ix ciiried  w  hik-  this  work  was  being  dcute.  Supper  w. is 
ser\eil  at  10. 11;  a.  111.  and  minu-iliately  afterward  wetiawled  into  our  siet-ping  bags  with  our  wet  clolhing 
clinging  about  our  sliiveiing  lorins.  The  heat  emanaliiig  Irom  our  bodies  is  always  utilized  at  night  in 
di\iiig  our  damp  garments,      Tiie  tent   is  being  badly  shaken  . and  threatens  to  take  llight  in  the  imreasmg 


storm. 


/'.  .1/. — 'I'lie  cook  announced  breakfast  at    10.15.     The  slonii  continues  with   unabated   violence,  and 


■lu(k-s  am  tiicuights  of  a   move  Irom  lu- 


re to  d.iv.      Tl 


le  snow   forming  in  drifts  ag.iilisl  the  sides  of  the 


teiil  has  caused  tlu   d  to  iiearh   meet,  thus  pri-\entiiig  us  from  exteiuling  0111  limbs  tolheii  full  length.     The 
\i-loiity   of   the    storm    is   estini.ited   at    lorty    miles   per   hour   |i7.i>"'    per  secondj.      Teinpi-rature,    -<-iS.o' 

l--.Krt'.|. 

.Ipri/  i\. — At   1  a.  iii.  the  storm  li.id  ab.ited  suiruieiitly  to  en.ible  lis  to  make  preparations  to  resume 
our  joiiriu-y.     The  lull  in  the  sioiiii  was  almost  imnu-dialely  followed  by  .i  heav)  tall  of  snow,  which,  how 


evi'i,  ( I'.ised  a 


t  6  a.  III.     .\  small  <  .liiii  was  constructed  on  llu-  hillside  above  our  camp,  in  which  w.i 


IS  1  ai  licit 


u-  sledges   111  the  usiia 


I     Old 


el. 


a  lew  rations  for  our  icluiii  to  llu-  Ho. it  ('am|i.  We  sl.iited  al  11.15  with  I 
I  .ieuteiiaiit  {.ockwood  o\i-rtook  us  in  a  short  time  and  desired  to  excliangi.-  Ins  broken  sledge  runnels  lor 
those  on  .ViiiiS,  linder  the  shelter  of  the  high  ice  wall  the  change  was  soon  effected,  and  we  again  resumed 
our  journey. 

.\llei  passing  hrift  I'oiiit  wi-  encountered  the  much  die.ided  snow  slopes  so  vividly  described  b\  lieaii- 
mont.  lie  had  lert.iinly  made  no  e\aggi-i.iiion  in  his  aicoiml  of  the  dilfu  ully  experieiiced  in  siirmouiiliiig 
llu  III.  (  >iu  e  we  liied  skdging  on  the  line,  but  on  ai  1  ouni  o|  the  rugged  ch.iiai  lei  of  the  ice  wi-  wen-  forced 
to  lesiniu-  our  original  course  o\er  the  slopes.  The  piepondei.liii  i-  lA  the  load  n.ilui.illy  l.illing  on  the  lowi-r 
runner  of  the  sledgi-  (wliiili  iinloilnii.ilel)'  was  the  ileli-ili\e  one  oblained  tioiii  Lieutenant  l.ockwood  this 
morning),  it  was  in  a  short  time  a  total  wreck.  Il  was  immedi.ilel\  ab.indoiud,  .mil  the  lo.id  pl.iced  on  the 
two  lludson  liay  sk-dj  es  lashed  logellier  lor  the  purpose.  The  great  lesisi.iiiie  ollered  b)'  the  broad  sin 
laces  of  these  sledges  would  iiol  periiul  of  their  being  hauled  by  the  entile  Ion  e  (seven  ineli),  so  we  advanced 
the  loads  singly  and  111. Ilk- double  liiiis.  Made  camp  on  llu-  line  al  llu-  west  end  of  111, 11  k  I  loin  ('litis  .it 
.;.  m  p.  111.  While  the  cooks  were  prejiaring  supper  the  rem. under  of  the  p.iil)  cut  a  loa.d  ihroiigh  the  hinge 
ol  shore  hiiiiimocks  for  to  niorrow's  si  irt.     Oui  supper  (oin|)rised  musk  ox  ine.it  (raw  and  ho/en),  a  slew 


I  be, Ills,  anil  h.ud  bie.id  and  choci 


ale.     Triiipeiatuie,  -f  I  !• 


'  lo.o    I 


f'lesl 


I  sonilii-.isi  w  nil 


■II, 


,lio  has  occupied  .1  plai  e  m  my  tent  since  le.iving    Newm.in    l!,i\,  leluiiicil  In  Luiilen.inl    l.oikwiiod's  tent 


tins  i-\eiiiii 


.■//■///  J  |. —  I  1  .1  lied  the  I  00k  ,il    |  a.  111.      .\  strong  w  ind  has  been  sweeping  dow  n  o\ei  tin     now  .--lopes 
to  our  impiolei  led  tent  all  niglil.      Its  velocity  was  eslim.ited  a  I  eighteen  to  tweiits   Iw  o  niik--  [ii-r  hum  |.S.i)  lo 


I  li.dl  ol  our  eflecls;  the  rcii 


i)..S"'  pel  secoiiil|.  .Starling  al  7,50  a,  111.  we  advanced  with  onl)  aboul  li.ill  ol  ourellecls;  tlie  rem. under  w.is 
tl-  be  bi  ought  up  l.ilei.  (  111  the  w  hole,  the  lra\  cling  is  beller  ill, in  we  li.id  expei  t'  d  ;  si  ill,  the  ice  .it  this  pl.u  e 
is  far  from  w  hat  we  w  isli  it  lo  be.  .St-vei.il  l.iige  paleocryslic  I'oes  .ire  ol  the  greatest  impoil.iiu  e  in  expediling 
our  inogiess  with  these  lie.ivy  loads.  The  spaces  inter\'eiiiiig  between  (hem  is  lilleil  with  nibble,  which  lie- 
ipienlK  upsi-ls  the  sledges,  producing  ,1  burst  ol  iighleoiis  indigiialion  from  llie  Uiiloiiuii.ite  one  whose  lliiii 
it  is  to  go  b.ick  and  jilace  it   right   side  up   ag.iin.      W'l-  h.illeil   at   ii.j 


o  a.  III.  on  the  lloe 


about  half  ,1  mile 

from  the  line  of  cliffs,  and,  deposiiiiig  our  loads,  retuiiied  for  the  lemaiiider.      I  .leiilen  iiit  I  .ockwood  assigned 
me  to  tiu  dog-ic.im  during  the  .ilteinoon   wink-  he  went   up  the  coast   to  se.iii  h  lor  lieauinoiil's  cache  al 


TIIK  I.ADY    KltANKLlN  HAY   HXIM^DITIOM. 


223 


StiiiUon  (iolm'.  Wo  iilUTw.inls  liiinsrcrred  cvrytliinn  to  a  point  luanT  the  slioif,  wIutc  wi- 1  amiitd  at  6.30 
|t.  Ml.  Ili};li  "ii"l  ''-'^  ''^'''"  l'l"wiiiK  :i"  ''">■•  '"'^'  ti'in|K'iatuii'  lias  hi'i-ii  siilfu  iciitly  liiuli  to  null  llic  snow 
on  llu-  (lark  siniacc  of  tlu'  Hoc,  l)Ut  l)ctoiv  ivliring  lliis  ovi-ning  llii;  ti'niiiciatinv  had  talk'ii  a^ain  ;  the  llicr- 
Mioini:ti.T  indicated  +1 1.0"  [— 1 1.7' ('. J.  Supper  at  .S.30.  In  slccping-bans  at  y  o't  loi  k.  Snow  lalhnK  at 
dial  tiuif. 

.7/I//V  -'5. —  The  cook  aix>sf  at  i  a.  ni.  and  Ijfuakfasl  was  announied  at  (>  o'clork.     We  started  at  S. 


Clirisliansen,  coniphiininn  ol'  ilhiess,  was  caiiied  on   the  sledne 


1  assisted    l.ieiitenant  l.oikwoud  «ilh  th 


team  while  I. inn  liiouuhl  iij)  the  Hudson  l!ay  sle(l^;es  with  the  remainder  ol  the  party.  I'he  illness  of 
Cinistiansen,  our  failhtul  driver,  rendered  it  imperative  lor  us  to  camp  soon  alter  leaving;  the  lloi'.  This  we 
did  at  the  enlraiu  e  to  a  lari^e  ravine,  southwest,  about  two  miles  from  Stanton  Ciorye.  One  ol  Our  lints  was 
I'rerted  at  oik  e  and  the  sick  man  tenderly  tared  Cor.  The  best  sleeping  liag  was  given  him  aiui  a  hlieral 
(|uanlily  of  hot  hrandy  prcserilied.  We  soon  heard  tiie  sound  of  deep  and  prolonged  snoring  issuing  Irom  the 
tent,  and  ioik  hided  that  our  remedy  was  elVieaeiousaiid  that  his  (cindilion  must  he  impidving.  Two  more 
trips  with  tiie  dogs  were  made  to  our  old  (amp.  the  last  load  lieing  lirought  in  at  2..\^  p.  m.  Ralslon  and 
lewell  were  diie(  ted  l>y  l,ieutenant  l,o(  kwood  lo  proeeed  up  the  <()asl  in  sean  h  of  l.ieiiUnant  I'leaumont's 
eat  111'.  They  relumed  at  ij.jo  p.  in.  in  high  sjiirits,  hringiiig  with  them  a  can  of  rum  wliii  h  was  loimd  in 
the  I  ai  he  with  other  articles.  The  depot  is  in  good  (ondilioii,  and,  as  far  as  they  traveled  along  tiie  loasl, 
the  condition  of  the  road  is  ahove  the  average.  Tracks  of  hare,  foxes,  lemming,  and  iitannigan  are  repoi  leil 
l>y  them  as  being  numerous  along  the  ice-foot.      I  took  an  inventory  of  our  provisions  this  evening.      The 


result  alloids  universal  satislaction.     ('aim,  clear  weather.     Temperature  at  7  p 


I 


••!3-'J 


./////  2(1. —  1  (ailed  the  (ook  at  2  a.  in.,  and  breakfast  was  eaten  .it  .}.,?,S'  ^^'*'  coiistriu  led  a  large  (aim, 
in  which  were  plai  cd  provisions  for  our  return,  together  with  all  articles  of  ilolhing  and  e(|uipinent  not  aliso 
lutely  essseiilial  to  the  (ompletion  of  our  journey.  Temperature  at  (>  a.  in.,  — .'.o  j  — i.S.(/'  C.j:  maiimum 
recorded,  —  I. |.o"  1 —  25.6  |.  Christiansen  .says  liial  he  has  entirely  recovered  from  liis  illness,  and  tiial  he 
considers  hot  brandy  the  fust  of  all  remedies.  I'lverything  being  in  readiness  we  started  <>.\o  a.  m.,  reat  hmg 
.Sianton  (lorge  at  <S..>o,  where  we  were  detained  for  some  time  in  securing  the  cache  and  rebuilding  llu'  i  .lini, 
in  whiili  I.ockwood  iilaced  a  re(()r(l  of  our  journey. 

At  I  I  a.  111.  we  rounded  C'ape  Stanton  and  eiKced  Hand  Itay.     We  Ibiind  the  traveling  to  be  e\( client 
on  this  bay,  and  at  1  .jo  p.  in.  we 


had 


1  bed  t 


le  K 


e  loot  on  the  northern  side.      Lieutenant  l.oi  kwnod  o\cr 


took  us  at  J  o'clock,  and  lea\iiig  his  load  turned  back  with  the  dog  team  to  bring  up  llie  rem.iinder  lell  at 
Stanton  Clorge.  Christiansen,  still  feeling  weak  from  tl.e  elTects  of  yesterday's  illness,  went  w  ilh  my  jiarty 
to  camp,  while  Kalston  took  his  place  as  driver  of  the  dogteam.  On  aiii\ing  at  the  point  of  land  whi(  h 
embraces    I'ranklield   Hay  (Ui  the  west  went  into  (amp  (,5. .15  p.  m 


.\(ler 


pit(  hing  the  lent  we  reluin 


d 


to  bring  up  the  load  left  by  I. (k  kwood  near   Hand    May.      I  lell  the  oiok  in  (amp  to  prepare  supper  diirii 
our  absence.     At  6.45  we  relumed  with  the  loads,  having  been  in  the  drag  ro|ies  lor  twelve  hours,  and 
that  time  we  have  performed  the  hardest  work  that  we  have  ever 


•t  b 


leell  called  upon  Ic  do 


Supper  at  7.,?0-  "i^-"  ration  of  alcohol  lor  fuel  did  not  sullic  e  to  prep. ire  cun  meal  prupeily.  Tiie  c  hoc- 
olate  was  not  brought  to  the  lioiling  poiiil,  and  the  slew,  when  eaten,  was  apjiaii  iiti)  down  to  /ero  |  —  1  7.1S  'C.|. 
I.ieulenant  I.ockwood  and  K.dston  arrived  at  8.15.  A  ((uarter  of  an  hour  liter  and  we  had  retired  lo  our 
bags.      Temperature,  —15.0    |— 26.  r  (',  |. 

///;■/'/  .'7. —  1  (ailed  the  ( ook  at  .\.2o  a.  m,,an(l  at  6.30  we  had  rinished  incakfast.     Fresh,  westerly  wind; 


-.M.5"|-,VX.S'C.|. 
died  lor  bie.ilvlasl,  li 


■>  .i|) 


e  siidcleii   c  ii.inge  in 


dear  weather,  and  temperature  at  S.^^o,  —  17.0"  |  —  i^.i"  C.| ;  minimum  ii(  urdi  d, 
few  of  the  party  laii  boast  of  li.uiiig  slept  last  night,  and  this  morning,  wiuii  i 
peaied  as  weary  and  hea\y-e)((l  as  yesterday  evening  after  the  long  111. nch.  Th 
we.ilher  has  fro/en  our  sieeiimg  bags  as  still  as  bo.ucls,  and  a  tliic  k  coating  of  Irosi  having  lormed  inside  dumig 
tiie  day  they  were  about  as  w.irm  and  comfortable  when  liiey  were  uiiii>lli(l  ,it  night  as  a  uliigei.ilm  would 
li.ive  been.     A  ca(  lie  of  provisions  was  made  on  Itreakwaler  I'oini  suliic  ieiit  to  enable  us  lo  icliiin  lo  Ke 

lour  brougiil  lis  lo 


pulse 


llaii 


lor,  alter  w 


hid 


1  we  resumed  our  course  up  ilie  (oasl. 


.'\  tr.ini 


p  of  ha 


if 


l''raiikfiel(l  l!ay  at  (j  o'c  ioc  k,  and  alter  a  steady  mau  h  of  one  hour's  duration  \\c  leai  hed  liie  o 


At  this  |)()int  we  ascended  a  sik  (  essioii  of 


iposite  shoie. 


lopes,  whic  h  wcie  nut  (  rossed  without   gieat  dillii  iilly  .11 


Ireiiuent  oMiliuiiillgs  of  the  sledges.     We  passed  many  small  bays  and  indeiilalions,  whidi  l.ieulenani  lieau- 
nionl  evideiiliy  did  not   consider  of  sullic  ieiil  impiirlailce  I 


o  honor  u  illi  iianu" 


Tl 


laps  of  liie  I'.nglish, 

luiuever,  are  niodeis  of  aic  iiracy  and  beauty,  every  important  point,  mounl.iiii,  and  indenl.ilion  being  fault- 
lessly delineated. 


\i      \ 


¥i 


H 


I    :< 


224 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


At  7.40  i>.  m.  wc  readied  Cape  IJryant  and  went  into  camp  at  once.  We  bad  been  traveling  for  eleven 
hours  and  ten  minutes,  and  were  very  tired  from  the  effects  of  the  severe  strain.  The  traveling  was  fair, 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  arrived  at  8.30  witli  the  dog-team  and  a  portion  of  his  load.  The  remainder  was  left 
back  near  Frankfield  Hay,  where  he  will  send  for  it  later.  Temperature  at  the  hour  of  entering  camp  was 
—  15.0"  f  — 26.i"C.].  A  fresh  southwest  wind  was  blowing  at  the  time,  and  the  i'mgers  of  Frederick  were 
baiUy  frost-bitten  in  endeavoring  to  lash  the  broken  ridge-pole  of  our  tent. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  shot  five  ptarmigan  this  evening  just  before  entering  camj).  The  sledge  Hayes 
lias  borne  up  bravely  under  trying  circumstances,  but  it  is  now  a  hopeless  wreck;  the  runners  are  entirely 
worn  off  and  its  bottom  has  been  repeatedly  punctured  by  short  pieces  of  ice. 

Supper  at  10.45.  ^^  usual  in  these  low  temperatures,  our  ration  of  fuel  was  consumed  when  the  meal 
was  not  more  than  half  cooked,  and  we  were  forced  to  console  ourselves  for  the  hard  work  just  completed 
by  a  meal  of  frozen  food.     Crawled  into  our  sleeping-bags  at  1 1.15. 

April  28. — I  called  the  cook  at  9  a.  m.,  and  breakfast  was  announced  two  hours  later.  The  frozen  state 
of  the  bags  and  the  low  temperature  again  prevented  us  from  obtaining  much  sleep.  This  is  a  very  pleas- 
ant morning;  clear  and  calm  weather,  and  an  apparently  high  temperature.  On  investigating,  iiowever,  it 
was  found  to  be  —14.0°  [  —  25.6"  C.|;  minimum  recorded,  —16.0°  [  —  26.7''  C.j. 

I  left  cam])  with  Kalston  and  Klison  and  proceeded  along  the  coast  of  Saint  (Seorge  Fiord  to  the  south- 
ward in  search  of  Ueaumont's  cache,  which  was  made  in  this  vicinity.  After  a  long  and  unsuccessful  search 
we  asceni.'.ed  the  promontory  (Cape  Fulford)  projecting  into  the  fiord  about  six  miles  from  Cape  Bryant,  and, 
erecting  a  cairn  on  its  summit,  deposited  in  it  a  record,  in  which  was  stated  the  date  and  object  of  our  visit. 
From  our  lofty  i)osition  on  this  promontory  an  excellent  view  of  Cape  May,  Dragon  Point,  and  Mounts 
1  looker,  Copjjinger,  anil  Farragut,  as  well  as  the  fringe  of  stately,  snow-capped  mountains  along  the  western 
shore  of  this  fiord,  was  obtained.  'I'hey  all  stood  out  boldly,  and  did  not  appear  to  be  as  far  away  as  they 
are  represented  to  be  on  the  map.  Cape  Britannia  and  Stephenson  and  Beaumont  Islands  could  not  be  seen 
distinctly  owing  to  the  hazy  atmosphere,  but  dark,  shapeless  masses,  barely  discernible,  indicated  to  us  thu 
jiosition  of  the  land  which  we  so  much  desire  to  attain.  We  returned  to  camp  at  6.30,  having  been  un.nic- 
cessful  in  our  search  for  the  depot,  but  having  seen  several  ptarmigan  and  tracks  of  foxes,  hares,  and  lemming, 

We  are  greatly  encouraged  by  the  appearance  of  the  ice  in  the  fiord  looking  towards  Cape  May,  and 
shall  look  for  good  results  in  our  sledging  in  that  direction.  Ralston,  Linn,  and  myself  are  suffering  greatly 
from  the  effects  of  snow-blindness,  notwithstanding  the  fact  of  our  having  worn  the  goggljs  at  all  times. 

April  29. — The  cook  was  called  at  7  a.  m.,  and  at  9  the  breakfast  was  passed  to  the  men  sitting  in  their 
bags.  It  is  a  beautiful  morning,  but  the  i)ainful  condition  of  my  eyes  renders  me  incapable  of  enjoying  it. 
Temperature,  —14.0^  [  —  25.6°  C.J;  minimum  recorded,  —23.0"  [  —  30.6°  C.]. 

Ralston's  eyes  are  imjjroving  slowly ;  Linn's  are  no  better  than  they  were  yesterday.  Sleep  was  ban- 
ished last  night  on  account  of  the  torture  which  this  snow-blindness  has  inflicted  on  our  eyes. 

We  built  1  large  cairn,  in  which  all  provisions  and  articles  of  our  ec]uipment.  not  absolutely  necessary  for 
traveling,  were  stored  for  future  use.  I  have  been  detached  from  the  supporting  party,  and  will  accompany 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  on  his  journey  to  the  northeast.  Sergeant  Linn  will  conduct  the  supporting  jiarty 
back  to  the  Boat  Cam]),  where  he  will  remain  with  two  men,  sending  the  other  three  to  Fort  Conger.  They 
(  annot  accom])any  us  farther  owing  to  the  dila])idated  state  of  the  sledges.  Linn  started  back  with  the 
jiarty  at  4.18  p.  m.,  using  the  sledge  Hiill  to  transport  their  provisions  antl  effects.  Half  an  hour  later 
Lockwood,  Christiansen,  and  myself  started  with  the  dog-team  and  twenty-five  days'  provisions,  shai)ing 
our  course  in  a  northeasterly  direction  across  Saint  (ieorge  Fiord. 

Our  loail  weighs  about  700  pounds,  or  nearly  90  pounds  each  to  our  dogs. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

P,  L.  Bkainaki), 

Serjeant, 


THE  LADY  KRANKI.IN  BAY   EXPKDITIOX. 


225 


Record  left  by  Lieut.  L,  A.  Beaumont^  R.  A''.,  at  Stanton  Ciorgi: 

Stanton  Goroe  Dkpot,  yum-  t,,  1S76. 

This  depot  was  left  by  the  Greenland  party  for  their  use  on  the  return  journey,  on  May  5th,  the  day 
on  which  Dr.  Cop[)inger  left  to  return  to  the  Ah-yt. 

Tt  was  visited  by  Lieutenani  Rawson  on  May  15th,  on  his  return  with  James  Hand,  who  was  suftering 
from  scurvy,  and  hatl  to  be  detached  from  the  advanced  party. 

Lieutenant  Rawson  took  40  out  of  the  1 20  rations,  or  8  days  for  his  5  men,  which  was  sufficient  to  enable 
him  to  reach  the  Repulse  Harbor  Depot. 

This  depot  was  lasUy  visited  by  Lieutenant  Beaumont,  in  command  of  the  Citeenland  exploring  ■  arty 
on  his  return  journey  on  the  above  date. 

Lieutenant  Rawson  left  Lieutenant  Beaumont  on  the  nth  May,  for  the  reason  stated  above. 

Lieutenant  Beaumont  reached  his  (iirthest  on  May  21,  and  after  waiting  two  (2)  days  for  fine  weather 
started  on  liis  return  journey,  chiefly  in  conseoueiice  of  the  appearance  of  scurvy  amongst  the  remaining  6 
of  his  crew. 

Since  that  the  weather  h;':.  been  very  unfavorable,  and  a  great  deal  of  snow  has  fallen,  making  the 
traveling  very  heavy.  Tliree  of  the  crew  have  become  worse,  and,  though  just  able  to  walk  slowly,  are 
i  jlpless ;  their  names  are  William  Jenkins,  Peter  Craig,  and  Charles  Paul.  Two  more  show  symptoms  of  it. 
Wilson  Dobing  (considerable),  and  Frank  Jones  (slight).  Lieutenant  Beaumont  and  Alex.  Gray  (captain 
of  sledge),  are  well.  The  i)arty  takes  40  rations,  as  their  quicker  return  and  the  sickness  of  the  men  has 
enabled  them  to  economise  provisions. 

Forty  rations  are  thus  left  at  this  depot,  and  these  are  comj)lete  in  every  respect. 

The  party  starts  to-morrow  for  Repulse  Harbor  across  the  floe. 

L.  A.  Beaumont, 
Lieutenant,  R.  N.^  IL  M,  S.  Discovery, 

Records  left  at  Repulse  Bay  by  British  Arctic  Expedition^  i8j^-j6. 

H.  M.  Sledge  Alert,  at  Repulse  Bay,  Afay  7,  1876. 
The  above-ni  iitioned  4-man  sledge  arrived  here  at  4.40  a.  m.  of  the  7th  May,  having  parted  company 
with  Lieutenant  Beaumont  i<)%  miles  to  the  northeast  on  the  coast,  and  2}^  miles  on  this  side  Cape  Stanton 
on  the  sth  May.     All  well,  but  experiencing  slow  and  very  laborious  traveling. 

I  meet  here  H.  AL  Sledges  Stephenson  and  Clements Markham,  I  start  to-morrow  for  Polaris  Bay  with 
die  Stephenson  and    Alert.     The  adjoining  depot  contains  92  rations. 

The  letter  to  eutenant  Beaumont,  herewith  contained,  gives  full  information  regarding  depot,  and 
can  be  read  by  an>       rson  visiting  cairn  before  his  arrival. 

R.  W.   COPPINGER,   M.    D., 

Surgeon. 

H.  M.  Sledge  Discovery,  Saturday,  May  20,  1876. 


DEPOT-CROSSING    BAY. 

Above  I'L-ntioned  sledge  arrived  here.  May  19th,  having  left  Lieutenant  Beaumont  on  the  loth,  about 
40  miles  aid,  the  coast.  I  was  sent  back  with  J.  Hand,  one  of  Lieutenant  Beaumont's  sledge  crew,  who 
has  got  siurw;  we  have  had  to  carry  him  the  last  day.  Lieutenant  Beaumont  all  well,  and  going  on 
with  six  men.  From  the  top  of  a  peak  the  day  before  I  left  him,  three  large  fiords  were  di.scovcred,  and  a 
large  island.  1  start  for  Polaris  Bay  to-day.  Bryan,  one  of  my  party,  has  got  a  had  leg,  but  I  hope  he 
will  soon  be  all  ight.  I  take  20  rat'ons  from  this  depot,  including  a  few  loose  ones,  which  are  in  the  wooden 
box  with  the  provisions  I  have  got.  1  shall  be  provisioned  up  to  30th  May.  1  also  take  pick-ax  and  boat- 
swain's bag,  which  both  belong  to  my  sledge. 

Wyatt  Rawson, 

Lieutenant,  y.  M.  Ship  Discovery,  Depot-crossing  Bay,  North  Greenland. 

yfay  20. — We  jiassed  Cape  Chase.     No  big  hummocks  were  seen  near  Cape  Chase.     Any  person  can 
read  my  letter  to  Lieutenant  Beaumont. 

( I'o  Lieutenant  Beaumont:)     1  an.  taking  on  your  cooking-stove  as  far  as  1  can. 
H.  Mis.  393 15 


UU1 

7«  . 
j 

1 

1     ! 

t 


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'.'■ 


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226 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  HAY  KXPKUITION, 


Ri'.PiisK  Hariior  Di.rnr,   \\.t,o  it.  m,  yinn-  lo,  1876. 

l.ieutcnanl  Ik-auinont,  in  coininanil  of  sledge  Sir  Juhvani  J\inj  And  G  men,  arrived  lierc  on  the  aliove 
dale. 

Tlie  ])arty,  after  leaving  Lieutenant  Rawson  on  the  iith  ultinui,  reached  its  farthest  point  on  the  19th 
May,  in  latitude  82"  15'  N.  and  longituile  49  ,  ajiproximately,  having  exi)erieiuetl  very  heavy  traveling  for 
the  three  previous  days — across  snow,  soft  underneath  and  from  3  feet  |.9"'J  to  4  feet  9  inches  li.4"'J  deep. 
This  not  only  chockeil  their  further  advance,  hut  brought  out  the  scurvy  in  two  of  the  crew,  who,  in  conse- 
(jUence  of  the  want  of  proper  remedies,  became  steadily  worse  from  that  <late.  'I'hey  first  suffered  in  the 
thighs  and  at  the  back  of  the  knee,  but  after  being  much  discolored  and  very  much  swelled,  the  pain  has 
mostly  settled  in  the  joints. 

'I'he  party  waited  for  two  days  at  the  last  camp  in  iiopes  of  being  able  to  ascend  Mount  Karragut,  but 
it  remaining  thick,  and  snowing  the  whole  time,  the  state  of  the  provisions  as  well  as  tiie  increased  sickness 
of  tiie  crew  necessitated  their  return. 

According  to  orders  a  cairn  was  built  at  the  north  end  of  Reef  Island,  a  small  island  northwest  of  the 
last  lamp,  and  thus  the  farthest  land  attained,  and  a  record  left  in  it  containing  a  brief  account  of  the 
e.\i)eilition  and  the  work  undertaken  by  it  this  year,  but  considering  how  unlikely  a  phae  it  was  ever  to  be 
revisited,  the  skeleton  chart  supplied  for  the  pur])ose  was  not  left  in  that  lairn,  but  was  reserved  for  another 
cairn  in  a  more  prominent  and  accessible  position.  That  the  ascent  of  some  high  i)eak  on  the  lan<l  that 
terminates  in  Mounts  Hart,  Parr,  and  May,  was  not  accom|)iished  is  much  to  be  regretted,  since  it  leaves 
undecided  whether  Nares  Land  and  Stei)henson  Land  are  islands  separate,  or  together  form  jiart  'A  the 
mainland.  This  was  deemed  an  important  question,  but  untoward  circumstances  prevented  its  solution. 
One  clear  day  enabled  Lieutenant  Beaumont,  from  the  top  of  Mount  \Vindham  Hornby  (3,900  feet  1 1,189"'] 
high)  to  see  unich,  but  left  the  case  of  the  islands  still  in  doulrt,  as  the  same  land  obstructed  the  view. 

An  etVort  was  made  to  reach  Mount  Parr,  as  originally  intended,  by  a  forced  march  by  the  sound 
j)art  of  the  crew,  but  it  had  to  be  abandoned  in  conse(|uence  of  strong  westerly  winds,  the  continuous  fall 
of  snow  threatening  heavier  traveling,  and  the  increaseil  necessity  tor  a  s[)eedy  return.  Just  lielow  Mount 
Windliaiu  Hornby,  on  the  shoulder  of  Dragon  Point,  which  forms  the  eastern  corner  of  St.  (ieorge  Fiord, 
a  cairn  was  l)uilt,  ojien  from  Cajic  Archer  through  north  to  C'aj)e  Cleveland.  In  this  cairn  was  jiut  a  record 
in  most  respects  similar  to  the  one  at  Reef  Island,  ami  the  sk'.leton  chart,  filled  up  as  well  as  time  would 
permit,  was  put  with  it. 

l''rom  the  25th  ultimo  the  two  sick  men  have  not  l)een  able  to  assist  in  ]iulling  the  sleilge,  but  have 
walkeil  along,  holding  by  the  drag-ropes.  On  the  28th  Charles  Paul,  who  had  shown  syin[)toms  of  ajiproach- 
ing  scurvy,  was  ([uite  disabled,  and  from  that  time,  like  the  other  two,  has  not  been  able  to  assist  in  anything. 

On  the  30th  we  deposited  as  much  gear  as  we  cjuld  at  Old  River  Point,  the  ciiief  weight  being  fifty-six 
pounds  pemmican,  two  gallons  s])irits  wine,  two  kna])sacks,  lower  robe,  rifle,  iS;c.,  estimated  at  one  hundreil 
and  seventy  pounds.  The  weather,  with  very  few  exceptions,  has  remained  most  unfavorable;  a  considerable 
amount  of  snow  has  fallen,  and  so  wet  that  it  has  rotted  the  harder  and  older  snow  underneath,  and  made 
traveling  much  more  laborious. 

The  party,  thus  reduced  to  four  working  hands,  reached  the  Stanton  Oorgc  Depot  on  the  3d  June,  by 
which  time  William  Jenkins  and  Charles  Paul  were  only  just  able  to  crawl  along  slowly,  the  sledge  having 
to  stop  and  wait  for  them.  Took  forty  rations  to  complete  w ith,  and  started  same  evening,  Paul,  w ho  was 
unable  lo  stand,  having  to  be  put  on  the  sledge.  \\'ith  the  extra  load  the  four  men  w  ere  unable  to  take  the 
sledge  along  the  snow-sloijes.  We  now,  therefore,  took  to  the  ice  aiul  followed  the  line  of  Hoes  along  the 
Plack  Horn  Cliffs,  eentually  coming  into  the  outward  bound  tracks  and  reaching  the  shore  at  the  same 
place  where  we  had  left  it  on  the  ist  ALiy.  The  next  day,  June  7,  Jenkins  failed  completely,  and  had  to  be 
])ut  on  the  sledge.  This  increased  weight,  as  well  as  the  dillicully  of  jjassing  the  Snow  and  Drift  Point  slopes, 
made  it  necessary  to  make  two  journeys  each  time,  the  first  to  carry  the  weights  and  provisions,  the  second 
to  bring  up  the  tent  and  the  sick.  Snow  I'oint  was  thus  passed,  but  the  second  trip  around  Drift  Point  was 
made  liy  the  tloe,  having  failed  to  get  the  sledgo  over  the  point  the  first  time. 

The  wet  snow  which  aas  been  falling  ever  so  h.ng  is  making  the  traveling  hea\  ier  and  heavier,  aiii!  f  )r 
the  last  two  days  Craig  lias  not  been  able  to  kee|^  up  w  iih  the  sledge,  although  going  ipiite  slowly.  (Jn 
two  occasions  the  four  men  have  not  been  able  to  move  the  sledge  through  the  deep,  wet  snow  and  had  to 
unload  to  extricate  her. 


H  1 


B   > 


i5.3S3iV6t- 


THE  LADY  FKVNKIilX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


227 


The  party  reached  tiiis  depot  after  a  long,  but  necessarily  slow,  march  of  twelve  hours.  Out  of  seven 
men  forming  the  whole  party,  two,  William  Jenkins  and  Charles  Paul,  are  absolutely  helpless,  having  to  be 
dressed  and  carried  to  and  from  the  sleilge.  Another,  Peter  C'raig,  is  just  al)Ie  to  walk  very  slowly.  Wilson 
Dobing  is  gradually  approaching  the  stage  when  he  will  no  longer  be  able  to  pull,  and  Frank  Jones,  though 
he  has  uiunistakable  signs  of  the  same  disease,  has  not  become  worse  until  the  last  few  days.  Severe  work 
made  the  stiffness  a  little  more  felt;  the  two  last,  together  with  Alex.  Cray  and  Lieutenant  Heaumont  (who 
as  yet  is  well  in  healtli),  are  the  four  w(jrking  liands  upon  whom  tiie  burden  of  tlie  work  falls  entirely.  lU)th 
Uobing  and  Jones  are  working  with  great  spirit  and  determination;  Craig  has  shown  much  courage  in 
holding  out  so  long,  and  all  have  done  their  best. 

'i"he  party  proceeds  to-morrow,  the  nth  June,  across  the  straits,  to  H.  M.  Ship  Alert,  in  preference  to 
overland  to  Polaris  Bay,  for  the  following  reasons: 

(i)  Because  the  distance  from  Repulse  Harbor  to  Black  Cape,  about  twenty-three  miles,  is  less  this 
way  and  known,  while  to  Polaris  Bay  is  greater,  and  that  way  unknown.  At  Black  Cape  assistance  can  be 
obtained  from  the  Alert. 

(2)  Because  with  three  sick,  and  only  four  to  pull,  land  traveling  has  become  more  difficult  tlian  on  llie 
ice,  while  the  probability  of  one  more  having  to  be  carrieil  and  one  less  to  pull  will  make  the  gentlest  slopes 
in  this  snow  impassable  to  the  already  overworked  three. 

(3)  F.ven  arrived  at  Polaris  Bay  without  any  change  for  the  worse  in  our  conditini.  C, :  .vMition  to  the 
l)arty  would  consist  of  two  more  sick,  James  Hand  anil  Cieorge  Bryant,  and  four  sound  -jiies.  Lieutenant 
Rawson,  Dr.  Coppinger,  and  two  men;  for  Captain  Stephenson, in  his  letter  to  me,  says  that  Ur.  Coppinger 
will  be  left  at  Polaris  Bay  with  Hands  and  the  dogs,  (^nly  thus  there  will  be,  at  most,  8  mey  to  manage 
two  sledges  and  a  2ofoot  [6"'J  ice-boat,  and  take  care  of  five  sick  and  helpless  men  at  the  very  time  when 
the  ice  's  breaking  up. 

y)  ii.i  ving  seen  no  signs  of  any  movement  in  the  ice,  as  yet,  and  taking  the  collapsible  boat  to  use  as 
a  last  's'.iource,  there  is  reason  to  hoi)e  that  the  crossing  may  be  effected  without  mishai),  and  thereby  the 
safety  and  welfare  of  the  party  insured,  and  assistance  to  the  few  now  at  Polaris  Bay  more  shortly  rendeied 
than  could  be  the  case  by  the  adilition  of  so  reduced  and  weakened  a  crew. 


h\ 


1 


'II 


I,  Lewis  A.  Beaumont,  who  wrote  the  preceding  record,  having  weighed  over  very  carefully  the  whole 
matter,  an<l  firmly  believe  that,  to  the  best  of  my  belief  and  knowledge,  I  have  taken  the  right  course,  and 
hopefully  trust,  with  Cod's  help,  to  carry  it  out. 

It  is  my  intention,  immediately  on  reaching  the  Alert,  to  procure  assistance  for  those  at  Polaris  Bay 
(believing  that  they  are  too  few  to  manage  the  20-foot  [6"'J  ice-boat)  either  from  that  shi|)  or  the  Dhun'cry. 

If  any  of  them  reach  this  de[)ot  in  search  of  us  they  will  ])lease  take  a  copy  of  this  record  and  slate 
ment  for  the  purpose  of  eventually  taking  it  to  Ca|)tain   Stephenson,  and  they  will   be  able  to  judge  from 
the  condition  of  this  de[)0t  what  is  the  best  course  to  pursue  with  regard  to  their  own  return  and  the  chance 
of  assistance  reaching  them  through  our  means. 

L.  A.  Beaimont, 

//.  M,  Sliif-  Discovery. 


P 


Junk  12,  1876. 
I  am  sorry  to  state,  for  a  great  many  reasons,  that  we  are  obliged  to  abandon  our  intention  of  goid'g 
across  the  straits  to  \\\ti  Alert.  We  have  been  out  on  the  ice,  and,  after  having  successfully  ])assed  the 
shore  hummocks  and  the  first  fioe,  we  came  to  o|)en  water  and  last  year's  ice  decaying  fast.  Thougii  we 
could  have  got  round  it  I  didn't  feel  justified  in  running  so  great  a  risk  .as  it  would  be  to  arrive  on  the 
other  side  eight  days  later  with  three  helpless  men  and  more  open  water;  so,  having  no  choice  left,  we  are 
starting  for  Polaris  Bay  immediately. 

•  L.  A.  Bkaumont,  Z/Vv//. 


Repulse  Harbor  Depot,  yune  13,  1876. 
Three  of  us  have  returned  from  the  camp,  half  a  mile  south,  to  fetch  the  remainder  of  the  [irovisions. 
Dobing  has  failed  altogether  this  morning.     Jones  is  much  worse  and  cannot  last  more  than  two  or  three 
days.     Craig  is  nearly  heli)less ;  therefore,  we  cannot  hope  to  reach  Polaris  Bay  without  assistance.     Two 
men  cannot  do  it;  so  we  will  go  as  far  as  we  can  and  live  as  long  as  we  can.     Cod  hel[)  us. 

L.  A.  Beaumont. 


n 


ii!l|! 


\4 


u 


ril 


■;  1:  ■ 


:i|!' 


228 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


[Kxiract  fmin  Captain  Stejihenson's  Idler  to  Lieutenant  Keaumont.] 


You  will  find  a  hook  at  Polaris  Bay  with  a  ineinoranduin  from  Captain  Nares,  in  which  he  desires  all 
officers  will  carefully  enter  any  provisions  removed  or  used  from  the  American  depot,  which  is  equal  to  1,000 
rations.  He  wishes  30  pounds  tea  and  250  pounds  ham  to  be  left,  which  is  eijual  to  1,000  rations,  and  the 
remainder  of  those  two  articles  conveyed  to  the  Disomi-ry,  so  that  should  you  find  anything  more  of  those 
two  items,  and  can  bring  them  over,  to  please  do  so. 

L.  A.  Beaumont,  Lieu/. 

On  reailing  Cajjtaiii  Stephenson's  letter  I  find  that  three  men  will  be  left  with  Dr.  Coppinger,  and  not 
Hans  only,  as  1  first  supposed,  but  this  will  not  alter  my  plan,  for  the  other  good  reasons. 

L.  A.  B. 

0/'siTt\i/ii>>is  ttiki'n  on  North  Greenland  sledge  jiiiniry. 


Locality. 


Date, 
1882. 


I 


Time.  liarometer.         Temperature.       Weather. 


fanip     L     Cape     A])r. 
Murchi.son.         | 

.Apr. 

Camp  n,  <leix>t  1!     Apr. 

Apr. 

Apr. 

On  the  march .Apr. 

Camp  in,  on  the  '  Apr. 
Mrait.  I 

Apr. 
On  the  march Apr. 

i 
Camp  IV,  on  the     Apr. 
birait. 

Apr. 

Apr. 

Apr. 


I  til  Ai's. ;      WW.     I 

3  I  2  inM'yt    2<).  »3    757.  67 

I  .    '  ' 

4  1    3  p.m.      2;.  65    753.  10 

4  8.45  p.m , 

412  m'd'gt    2().  62    752.33' 

5  ;    3  p.  -.1.      29.  78    756.  40 

5  12  md'gt    29.62    752.33 

J  ill 

6  4.20a.m. 1.. I 

I  I  I 


I 


6     6  a.  m.      29. 62   752.  33 


I 


8  p.m,      29.5s    750.56 


On  the  march 

Camp  V,  on  the 
strait. 


On  tht  ni.irch 

Camp  VL  I'olariii 
Boat  Cam]). 


Apr. 
Apr. 
Ai)r. 
.\pr. 
Apr. 
Apr. 

Apr. 

Apr. 

Apr. 

Apr. 

.\pr. 
Apr. 


On     the     march,  :  Apr. 
Newman  Hay. 


7 

I  z  m  u  gi 
3.30  a.  m. 

75-=-3J 

7 

7  a.m. 

29.67 

753-60 

7 

8  p.  m. 

29.  80  756,  91  ' 

7 

12  m'd'gt 

29.82 

757.4., 

8  I  9  p.  m.  30.  47  773.  92 
91    I  a.m.      30.55  775.96 

9  :  9  a.  m.  30.  80  782.  31 
9  I  8  p.  m.  30.  78  781.  80 
9    i2mM'Kti30.62  777.  73 

II     12  m'd'gt 


6  a.  m. 

13  8.30  a.  m. 

14  8  a.  m. 

15  I    8  a.  m. 


I  I 

29.  25  '  742. 94 

I  I 

29.02   737.09 
i 
16 1    9  a.m.      28.881733.54! 


I6  I    8  p.  m. 


28.  83  !  732.  27 


Fahr, 

32.0 

-32.0 

—29.0 

-28.5' 

22.0 

-27.0 

-',6.0  . 

—40.  o 

I 

330! 

-29.  o , 

-20.8! 

-25-5 
-19.5 
-17.8 
4- 10.  o 

f  2.0 

I-  9-5 
+  3.5 

I       •       I 

;-  6.0, 

-"! 

f-  8.0 

+  •0.3 

I 

+  «2.3' 

V  3.0 


I 


-3'5'6 

-35.6! 

I 

-33-  9 

i 

33-6 

-30.  o 

-43-  3  I 
—40.0 

-36. 1  ' 

-ii-  9  I 

-29.  3 

I 
-3«.9 

I 

-28. 6 1 
-27.  7 

-12.  2 

""i6.y 
-12.5 
-15.8 

-21. 1 
—19.4 

-12. 1 


-10.9 
16.1 


Minimum  tern- 
])trature. 


Remarks 


l.t.  snow. 

Lt.  snow. 
NW.fair. 


Fahr.    I        C.        \ 
—41.0     — .40.6 


-29  5 


Calm  and 

fair. 
IC.  It.  fair. 
SK.  brisk, 

clou<ly. 
SW.  brisk. 

SE.  fresh, 
fair. 


SE.  fresh, 
It.  snow. 
SW.  gale. 
SW.  gale. 
SW.  gale. 
SW.  brisk. 
.SW.  fresh 


-48. o 


-34.2 


-44.4 


-28.0-33.3 


Calm  and 

clear. 
Fair. 


Min.  Iher.  set  at  10.55 
p.  m. 

Min.    ther.   .set   at   8 
p.  m. 


Min.  ther.   .set   at   6 
a.m. 


Min.  ther.  set  at  4 
a.m. 


1612  m'd'yt ;  28.  76    730.  49      -  9.  o      -22.  8 


SW.  fair.  70    —21.7 

I 

— -,  f  7-2,   -13-8 

NE.  brisk. '  f-  3.81—15.7 
E.  It.  and 
fair. 


E.  It.  and 
clear. 


Min.  Iher.  set  at  8.30 

a.m. 
Min.   ther.   set   at  8 

a.m. 
Min.  ther.  set  at   8 

a.m. 

Mean      thermometer 

15.8  [— 26,6C.]. 

Number  of  ob.'i.,  32. 

Mean   bar.    29.74 

[7S5-38"""].  N'""- 
ber  of  obs.,  21 . 


J 


TUB  LADY  FUANKLIX  I5AV  EXPEDITION. 


229 


all 

00 

he 

ise 


iS 


i  f'i 


Obsfn'iitivns  taken  on  North  Greenhmd  sledge  journey — Continued. 


Locality. 


Date, 
1882. 


(;am|.   VII,   llre- 
voort  I't'iiiiisul.t 


Time. 


liarometer. 


Temperature. 


1  iHcktt.       mm.        Fakr, 
Apr.  17       9  a.  m.    28.  85    732.  78    -t  1 1-  o 


On  the  march 

Camp  VIII,  nrc 
voort  I'eniiisiila. 


Apr.  17  !     ijp.m.    28.93   734-81—3.0 

1  '  !  ' 

Apr.  17    I2m'(l't;t    28.88    733- S4    —  9- S 


C. 


Weather. 


30 


— 11.7  '  Calm  and 

I     fair. 
— 19.  4    (lalm.    It. 

SHOW. 

-23.  I    Calm  anil 
I      fair. 
Apr.  I.S        7  a.m.     28.74    729. 98    —  3.8    —19.9    Calm  and 

I  I  I  clear. 

Apr.  18     lop.  m.    28.75    730- 24   —  9.0        22.8    Calm  andi— lo.  o 

I                                ■      cloudy.    I 
On  the  m.irch Apr.  18    J2  m'd'gt    28.70   728.97—8.0   —22.  2  '  Calm,     It. 


Minimum 
teni|jeratiire. 


Fakr. 


I 


Remarks. 


19.4 


Camp    IX,    lire 
voort  I'eninsula. 


.\pr.  19        7  a.m.    28.62    726.93    —13.0-25.0 


On  the  march. 
Summit  Divide. 

Camp  .\,  Hre- 
voort  I'enin.sula. 


Camp    XI,    Bre- 
voort  I'eninsula. 


Camp  XII,  coast 
near  KcpuUc 
Harbor. 

Camp  XI II,  snow 
slopes. 


Camp  XIV,  Hlack 
Horn  ClilVs. 


Camp  X\',  .South 
Cape  Stanton. 


Camp  XVI,  north 
side  Hand  Bay. 
South  side 
Kranklield  Hay. 

Camp  XVI  I,  Cape 
Bryant. 


Apr.  19  ,     9  p.m.  '  28.  73  ^  729.  73  j— 14.  o| —25.6;  Calm,    It.    —15.0 
I  j  :  j  I      snow. 

.\pr.  20        2  a.m.  j  28.  45  <  722. 62  ! — 14.0   — 25.  6  I  Calm,     It. 

snow.      I 

Calm,     h.   

snow. 
Calm  and  j  — 40.  o 

clear. 
SE.,  brisk 
clear. 
3.0^—19.4    SE.,  brisk 
cloudy. 


Apr.  20  6  a.  m. 

Apr.  20  j  II  p.  m. 

1 

Apr.  21  9  a.  m. 

I 

Apr.  21  II  p.  m. 

Apr.  22  I  8  a.  m. 


Apr.  23 


4  a.  m. 


.\pr.  2^1  6  p.  m. 

i 

Apr.  24  j  8  a.  m. 

Apr.  24  6  p.  m. 


Apr.  25 
Apr.  25 
Apr.  26 
Apr.  26 
Apr.  27 
Apr.  27 
Apr.  28 
Apr.  28 
Apr.  29 


28. 60 '  726. 43 !  —19. 5 :  —28. 6 

I  i  i 

28. 60   726. 43  I  —38.  o  -38-  9 

29.  25    742.94!—  5.0—20.6 


28.98 


736. 08 


I 


+  8.o;-i3.3 


I 


29-  35    745-  48    +  8.  o 


•3.3 


7  a.m. 
12  noon 

6  .1.  m. 

7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 


29.57  751.00  .fi4.0|-lo.o 
29.  17  740.90!  +  6.  5  I— 14.  2 
29.  25    742.  94 


29-43   747- S' 


29.45 
29-53 


748. 02 
750. 05 


H1.5  — 11.4 

+  »4-5J—  9-7 
•f  3.  o  ]  —16.  I 
—  5.5  — 20.8 
— 14.0  — 25.6 


29-55 


8  p.  m.  j  29.  55 
12  noon  !  29.  45 


8  p.  m. 
8  a.  m. 


29-47 
29-53 


750.56  — 17.0  —27.2 


750.  56 
748. 02 
748.  52 
750. 05 


I 


■  14.0 

i 
-14.0 


-25.6 
-25.6 


SK.,l)risk, 

fair. 
SK.,  fresh, 

It.  snow. 
Calm,     It. 

snow. 
Calm  and 

fair. 
Calm  and 

clear. 


—23-  3 


-26.1 


—40.0 


-  7.0 


+  7-0 
+  4-0 


-16.0  — 26.  7 
-IV  5    --24.  2 


N.,  clear.. 
.SVV.,  cl'dy 

Calm  and 

clear. 
Calm  and 

clear. 
Calm  and 

clear. 


+  9-0 


-'SS 


-23-5 


-16.0 


21.7 


-•3-9 
-15.6 


—12.8 


—26. 4 


-30.  S 


-26.7 


.30.0 


Min.   ther.   set    at    9 
a.  m. 


Min.  ther.    set    at    7 
a.  m. 


Min.  ther.   set   at    7 
a.  m. 


Min.   ther.   set   at   6 
a.  m. 


Min.   ther.   set   at    9 
a.  m. 


Min.    ther.  set   at    8 
a.  m. 


Min.   ther.  set   at   6 
p.  ni. 

Min.    ther.   set   at  6 
p.  m. 

Min,  ther.   set  at   12 
noon. 

Min,    ther.    set   at    7 

p.  lU. 

Min.    ther.    set   at    S 
p,  m. 


Min.   ther.   .set    at  8 

p.  m. 
Mean     ther.,     —  7.4 

[— 2l.9°C.];   No. 

observations,      39. 

Mean    bar.,    29.09 

[738.87"""] ;     No. 

obs.,  25. 


ill' 


1 


H- 


1 ; , !: 


[1 


lili 


k;l 


!    ? 


230 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Tabulated  sttilemeiit  of  liistame  travrlcii 

i/ii/  time  ( 

onsiti/irit. 

Uiitance  (^engrnphical 

miles). 

Time 

(hours). 

5 

0 . 

S 

E    ■ 

3    V 

1882. 

XI 

■6 

"S 

•d 

1 

|i 

0 

u 

0  > 

V 

ij 

_; 

§ 

% 

'S 

; 

&. 

r^ 

e 

■^ 

■3 

-C! 

rt 

-3 

0 

rt 

**; 

!- 

<; 

H 

<^ 

f 

-t; 

H 

;<: 

Out. 

//.      OT. 

//. 

m. 

/;. 

//. 

III. 

y»///«. 

Kurl  ron(,'er  In  Unal  Camp 

48 

67 

•57 

224 

21       ^O 

28 

«5 

54 

S2 

'5 

2.23 

Hiial  t\im|i  lo  StM  Coast 

3''' 

86 

25 

III 

18    4S 

44 

20 

14 

5** 

20 

1.  92 

Sta  Coasl  lo  Tape  Hrvaiil 

37 'i 

•03' J 

12 

"5^' 

21       30 

47 

OS 

4 

5> 

OS 

"•74 

Cape  liryanl  lo  Cape  liiilannia 

60           iiS 

118 

32      00 

55 

25 



55 

25 

1.87 

Cape  liiilannia  to  I'arlliesl 

95       1      95 

95 

39    40 

48 

10 

.... 

48 

10 

2.39 

Total  (oiil) 

276,1/i 

4(>9'A  1     194 

063>4 

133    as 

223 

>S 

72 

29s 

•5 

2.07 

Jia.i: 

^_ 

_ 

-— — 

—  __ 

— 



Farllu'sl  lo  Cape  lirilaniiia 

95 

95 

95 

37     20 

4> 

45 



4« 

45 

2.54 

Cape  liiilannia  to  Cape  liryanl 

60 

(K3 

fio 

24    45 

28 

00 

28 

00 

.1.42 

Cape  liryanl  to  Itoal  Camp 

b\}i        Oi'4 

(,i>i 

27     30 

36 

35 



sf- 

35 

2.  23 

Ifuat  Canii)  lu  Kent  Coiiyei  .... 
Total  (Lack) 

48      1      48 

48 

22    45 
112    20 

28 

20 

28 
'34 

20 
40 

2.  II 

264,'i 

204,!^   i 

2l>4'2 

134 

40 

2.32 

-'^k'gfegate  (out  and  back) 

541   , 

734          194 

928 

24s    45 

357 

5S 

72 

429 

SS 

2.  19 

Agyregate  in  statute  miles 

623»i 

1,069^^ 

! 

The  word  "advanced,"  lioth  here  .ind  in  the  journal,  refers  to  the  simple  distance  from  camp  to  camp  and  the  actual  time 
occupied  in  niakin);  that  distance,  all  stops  deducted. 

'I'ho  word  "traveleil"  includes  tola'  nund)er  of  miles  traveled,  the  numliur  of  miles  advanced  adiled  to  those  traveled  in 
(joinj;  back  and  forth  in  "doubling  up."  The  time  corresponding  refers  to  the  whole  time  from  leaving  one  camp  to  arriving  at 
the  ne.xt,  all  slo]>s  included. 

The  "additional  miles"  refers  to  incidental  journeys  not  numbered  as  marches. 

The  rate  per  hour  is  the  rate  of  "advance,"  computed  from  the  lime  and  distance  a<lvanceil. 

The  whole  statement  is  conlined  Xo  the  dog-sledge. 


List  of  ilothhii^  on  pt-rsoH  and  in  /uii:;  on 

having  Fort  Con^ 

'er. 

Articles. 

rt 

B 

'I 

n 

I 
1 

1 

(A 

"rt 
Pi 

I 

B 

B 

I 

a 

I 

I 
I 

U 

"C 

i> 

t 

1 

3 
2 

2 

a 

B 

I 

u 

I 

(J 

•0 

V 

3 
1 

Cloih  caps 

Seal-skin  trousers* .,__ 

Woolen  troufsers  (Government) 

I 

3 
I 

I 

Canvas  frocks . 

I 

3 
2 

I 

3 
2 
I 
I 

I 
2 

I 
I 
2 

5 

1 

2 
2 
I 

2 
I 

I 

2 
I 

I 
I 
3 

1 

I 
I 

I 

3 

I 
I 

Flannel  or  woolen  shirts 

Drawers pairs.. 

(iuernseys                    

Seal-skin  tcmiaks  .   

Sealskin  milleiis  .,   

Woolen  mittens 

I 

2 
I 

I 

4 
2 

I 

I 
I 
I 

5 

2 

2 
I 
I 

2 

I 

2 

Dog-skin  mittens  ..     

Seal-skin  boots 

' 

I 

I 

■ 

--- 

Canvas  shoes 

Huck-skin  moccasins pairs.. 

Woolen  socks pairs.  _ 

lilanket  wrappers .         ..       

2 

5 

I 

I 

5 
I 

6 
2 

I 

2 

4 
2 

I 

3 
2 

I 

4 

2 

Dog-skin  and  deerskin  tcminks  . 

Deer-skin  stockings      ..   . 

I 

1 

I 



Coats  (wfH)len) ._ 

Ulankel  vests  ... 

■ 

I 

.... 

■<« 


*  Mostly  exchanged  afterwards  for  woolen  trousers. 

This  li.st  w.is  subseipiently  changed  somewh.it.  The  clothing  bag  of  each  man  w.is  limited  lo  8  pounds  in  weight  on 
leaving  I'ort  Conger.  ( )n  leaving  Hoat  Camp  everything  imssilile  was  left  there.  Many  of  the  alxjve  articles  were  made  by  the 
men  themselves  out  of  blankets. 


=-«l"B«*«liP*«f" 


TUE  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION, 


231 


Report  of  proicidings  by  Sirgcaiil  Ji'~ii'cU  ichile  dclaihcd. 

Fort  Concf.k,  (iKinnki.i,  Land,  March  ^o,  1882. 

Sir:  In  compliance  with  your  orders  of  Marcli  21,  rcceivcil  at  depot  1!  upon  my  return  to  tiiut  point 
from  Lincoln  liay,  1  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report. 

At  7  a.  m.  March  25,  accompanied  by  Private  Ellis,  who  by  your  order  joined  mo  yesterday,  anil 
Frederick  Chri>  lansen,  left  depot  15  at  9  a.  m.  with  the  load  of  provisions,  composed  of  the  following,  vi/., 
I  bag  pemmican,  2  cans  alcohol,  3  boxes  English  beef,  2  bags  bread,  and  2  cans  of  lime-juice  pemmican^  In 
addition  we  carried  two  sleeping-bags,  with  cooking  utensils,  &c.  Finiling  that  this  load  was  too  great  for 
the  ilogs,  upon  my  arrival  at  Cape  Beechey,  at  1 1  a.  m.,  I  lightenetl  it  by  caching  one  (an  alcohol  and  one 
box  English  beef.  We  here  left  the  ice-foot,  and  after  crossing  the  rubble  ice  near  the  shore  reached  a  large 
tloe  that  continued  to  within  about  3  miles  of  the  (Ireenland  shore.  In  conseipience  of  the  dogs  becoming 
very  tired  I  left  the  other  can  of  alcohol  at  this  place,  and  after  several  hours'  hard  work  reached  depot  E 
at  II  p.  m.  We  then  built  a  snow  house  and  retired  for  the  night.  .Minimum  temperature,  from  11  p.  m. 
25th  to  1 1  a.  m.  26th,  51°  below  zero  [  -46,1°  C.J. 

Afiur/i  26. — 1  learned  a  lesson  last  night,  or  rather  this  morning,  that  hereafter  in  using  a  snow  house 
I  shall  heed.  I  noticed  when  1  retired  that  the  candle  burned  very  dimly,  but  thinking  nothing  of  it  went 
to  sleep.  This  morning  I  felt  as  usual  and  ate  (juite  n  hearty  breakfast.  But  upon  going  into  the  fresh  air, 
I  was  taken  with  a  dizziness  in  the  head  and  sickness  at  the  stomach,  so  severe  that  at  one  time  I  could  see 
nothing  at  all.  The  other  men  were  equally  as  bad  off  as  myself,  and  for  some  time  it  looked  very  serious, 
as  the  temiycrature  was  36°  below  zero  [  —  37.8°  C.j.  liut  after  half  an  hour's  brisk  exercise  it  gradually  wore 
away.     'I'he  cause  of  this  was  doubtless  foul  air  caused  by  insufficient  ventilation. 

This  morning  I  examined  the  depot  already  established  and  found  everything  in  confusion,  the  result 
probably  of  a  severe  gale,  as  the  boat  was  found  on  the  ice-foot  completely  wrecked,  and  snow-shoe:;  and 
other  articles  scattered  all  over  the  ice,  some  being  at  least  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  ilci)ot.  Ellis,  w  ho 
had  frozen  his  foot  coming  from  Fort  Conger  to  depot  B,  became  worse  and  I  left  for  the  latter  place,  at 
which  point  1  arrived  at  7.35  p   m.     We  found  the  traveling  quite  severe  owing  to  a  brisk  wind, 

I  gave  the  dogs  a  rest  on  the  27th  as  well  as  delaying  operations,  in  order  to  ascertain  as  to  whether 
Ellis  would  be  able  to  continue  his  work. 

The  next  morning  (28th)  Ellis's  foot  being  much  worse,  I  concluded  to  take  him  to  Fort  Conger,  for 
which  place  I  started  at  7.20  a.  m.,  but  after  walking  a  short  distance  he,  with  a  fortitude  that  does  credit  to 
him,  insisted  upon  going  alone,  so  that  I  could  return  and  continue  my  work.  In  consecjuence  I  returned 
and  at  8.45  a.  m.  started  for  depot  E  with  i  can  alcohol,  i  bag  pemmican,  2  bags  bread,  and  2  boxes  lime- 
juice  pemmican.  We  reached  Cape  Beechey  at  10.40  a,  m.,  and  taking  on  the  alcohol  and  box  of  English 
beef  left  there,  startetl  across  at  1 1  a.  m.  We  arrived  at  the  tent  at  i  p.  m.,  and  within  about  3  miles  of  the 
Greealand  shore  at  4  p.  m.     I  here  left  my  load  and  returned  to  the  tent,  arriving  at  5.40  p.  m. 

I  left  the  tent  at  8  a.  m.  (29th)  with  the  provisions  previously  left  there,  consisting  of  i  largt;  bag  of 
canned  goods,  2  boxes  pemmican,  and  i  box  potatoes,  and  on  my  way  over  also  added  2  cans  alcohol  left 
on  the  ice,  reaching  the  depot  at  3  p.  m.  Started  back  for  the  tent  at  3.30,  and  reached  that  point  at  7 
p.  m.  Upon  examining  my  barometer  I  found  it  very  low,  28.91  [734.30"""].  The  temperature  at  the  time 
being  51°  below  zero  [  —  46.1"  C.J,  the  conditions  were  all  favorable  for  :i  severe  storm,  and  not  wishing  to  be 
caught  on  the  straits,  we  prepared  and  ate  our  supper,  fed  the  dogs,  and  at  about  9  p.  m.  left  for  depot  1>, 
at  which  point  we  arrived  at  i  a.  m. 

At  I  [).  m.  of  the  30th  I  started  for  Fort  Conger  as  I  knew  that,  owing  to  the  storm  on  the  channel,  it 
would  be  two  or  three  days  before  I  couIq  .jross  again.     I  met  with  a  very  high  wind,  especially  in  crossing 
St.  Patrick  Bay,  and  around  Cape  Murchison,  arriving  at  6.40  p.  m. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

W.  S.  Jkweli,, 
Siri^earif,  Sii:;nal  Corps,  U.  S,  A, 

Lieut.  J.  B.  LocKWooi), 

Commanding  North  Greenland  Sleitge  Party. 


I 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


S^A 
^4^ 


^  ^ 

^ 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


Li 

US 

ly 
u 
us 


140 


■H 
2.2 

2.0 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporalion 


^\ 


^\ 


•ss 


c\ 


\ 


•* 
<^A 


23  WIST  MAIN  STMIT 

WBBSTM.N.Y.  MStO 

(716)l72-4503 


•^ 


4> 


Ml 


ri( 


iff 


23d  laH  LADV  FBAKKLIN  BAt  FXPBDITIOK. 

Memoranda  of  stores  cached  at  Cape  Bryant  and  Polaris  Boat  Camp. 
Memorandum  of  Rations  and  Stores  left  in  Cache  at  Cape  Bryant  May  24  and  35,  1883. 


Poundt. 

Pemmican  (English),  eatable,  but  not  good 53 

Pemmican  (lime-juice) . 45 

Bacon  (English),  a  little  musty 7 

Hard  bread  ( English), stale  and  musty  (40  rations) .  30 

Hard  bread  (United  States),  about 17 

Alcohol,  2  bags  l02oz.,and  i  can  190  oz _.  i%% 

Dried  beans,  2  bags i8)4 


Pounds. 

Chocolate,  about 4 

Tea l'4 

Tea  (English) — 

I  snow-knife. 

I  havenack  with  medicines. 

1 5  rounds  breech-loading  shotgun  (12  gauge)  ammunition. 

40  English  rations  of  stearine. 


Memorandum  of  Rations  and  Stores  left  in  whale-boat  at  Polaris  Boat  Camp  May  30, 1882. 


Butter,  3-lb.  cans cans..  10 

Corned  beef,  2-lb.  cam . do..  3 

Extract  of  beef do..  6 

Extract  of  mutton do..  6 

Condensed  eggs do..  3 

Cranberry  sauce do..  3 

Potatoes do..  2 

Baked  beans do..  7 

Soup do..      I 

Milk do..  18 

Hard  bread pounds..  70 

Tea do..      \% 

Dried  beans do 90 

Salt ...do..  8 

Eng.  potatoes,  i  box ...... „ do..  14 


12 

40 

5 

16 


Sugar. . pounds.. 

Chocolate do_. 

Pemmican  (lime-juice) ..do.. 

Lime-juice quarts.. 

Alcohol gallons.. 

Snow-knives 4 

Rubber  bbuiket i 

Blanket  wrappers pairs..      4 

Spade I 

Snow-shoe  (odd  one) i 

Canvas  shoes pairs..      4 

Wicking lalls..     10 

Splints  (medical) 4 

"Repair-box"  forboat „ I 

Several  pieces  of  tin. 


Copy  0/ records  left  in  cairns  at  Lockwood  Island  and  elsewhere. 
Records  left  in  cairns  at  Farthest,  worded  as  follows: 

I.  I  left  Fort  Conger,  Discovery  Harbor,  April  3, 1882,  with  party  of  twelve  men  and  equipment  consist- 
ing of  one  dog-sledge  and  teams  and  four  Hudson  Bay  sledges.  Four  of  the  party  broke  down  in  crossing 
the  straits  and  were  sent  back.  Two  of  the  sledges  also  became  useless  and  another,  a  large  sledge,  was 
substituted  for  them.  Thus  equipped  the  party  left  the  base  of  supplies  (which  we  had  in  mean  time  estab- 
lished at  the  "  Boat  Camp,"  Newman  Bay)  April  16  and  reached  Cape  Bryant  April  27.  Near  the  Black 
Horn  Cliffs  the  large  sledge  referred  to  broke  a  runner,  and  at  Cape  Bryant  the  two  remaining  Hudson 
Bay  sledges  were  unable  to  go  further,  being  worn  out.  Here  the  rest  of  the  party  turned  back  while  I 
continued  on  with  the  dog-team,  Sergeant  D.  L.  Brainard,  general  service,  U.  S.  Army,  and  Frederik 
Christiansen  (Eskimo). 

Cape  Britannia  was  reached  May  4  and  this  cape  May  13  [1882].  Here  I  turn  back,  starting  to-mor- 
row the  I  sth  inst.    All  well  at  this  date. 

J.  B.  Lockwood, 
Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  U.  S.  Army, 

n.  Shoe  [Mary  Murray]  Island  and  several  intermediate  points  between  that  and  Cape  Britannia,  each 
giving  a  brief  summary. 

III.  Cape  Britannia,  brief  summary. 
JV.  Cape  Bryart,  brief  summary. 

V.  Polaris  Boat  Camp,  brief  summary. 

VI.  Repulse  Haibor,  brief  summary. 


mam 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


233 


Appendix  No.  54. — Report  of  Private  Biederbick^  s  journey  into  Black  Rock  I'ale. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnkll  Land,  yune  2,  1882. 
Sir  :  In  compliance  with  your  instructions,  for  me  to  proceed  to  Black  Rock  Vale  and  take  meteoro- 
logical observations  and  magnetic  bearings  of  prominent  points,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following 
report. 

I  left  Fort  Conger  May  31,  at  12.30  a.  m.,  accompanying  Sergeant  Rice's  party  to  the  tent  in  the 
Bellows,  at  which  point  we  arrived  at  2.15  a.  m.  Barometer  reading  at  5.15  a.  m.,  30.36  |77'''3"""]; 
attached  thermometer,  30°  [-1.1°  C.];  7  a.  m..  barometer,  30.38  [771.64 "•"•];  att.  then,  32°  |o.o°  C];  at  4 
p.  m.,  barometer,  30.34  [770.62"""];  att.  then,  27.5°  [  —  2.5°  C.].  I  left  the  tent  at  4.4°  P-  ni.,  arriving  at 
Knife  Edge  at  6.50.  Barometer  at  7  p.  m.,  30.31  [769.86"'"'] ;  att.  then,  27.9 1—2.3°  C.j.  Magnetic  bearing 
to  point  A,  on  accompanying  chart,  201 ;  to  Bleak  Cape,  356.  I  left  this  station  at  7.20,  proceeding  up  the 
valley  until  8.05,  when  I  came  to  a  lake,  from  3  to  3>4  miles  in  length,  and  varying  from  200  to  800  yards 
[183  to  732""]  in  width.  Picked  up  some  shells.  Reading  of  barometer  at  8.05  p.  m.,  30.30  [769.61"'™ ) ; 
thermometer,  28°  [  —  2.2°  C.].  I  arrived  M  point  A  at  9.35  p.  m.  Barometer,  30.30  [769.61"""  j ;  thermom 
eter,  31°  [—0.6°  C].  Magnetic  bearing  forward  to  point  B,  255.  Arrived  at  end  of  lake  at  10.40  p.  m. 
Continuing  up  the  valley,  I  arrived  at  point  B  at  i  a.  m.  June  i.  Barometer,  30.13  [76s.29'""'|;  thermom- 
eter, 29.9°  [  —  1.2°  C.J.  Bearing  to  point  C  229,  and  to  point  0215.  From  here  I  began  the  ascent  of  a 
high  hill  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley,  but  owing  to  fatigue  gave  up  the  attempt,  and  started  on  my  return 
to  the  tent  at  2  a.  m.     Barometer  reading  at  4  a.  m.,  30.25  [768.34"'"'j ;  att.  then,  23°  [  —  5.0°  C.j. 

I  arrived  at  the  tent  at  10.15  a.  m.-  Barometer  upon  arrival,  30.30°  [769.61"""];  att.  then,  29.8"  [—1.2°  C.J. 
At  2  a.  m.  June  2,  barometer  30.15  [765.80"'"'] ;  thermometer,  28°  [  —  2.2°  C.J.  Left  tent  at  2.15  a.  m.  and 
arrived  at  Fort  Conger  at  6.15  a.  m. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Henry  Biederbick, 
Private,  Company  G,  Seventeenth  Infantry. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

First  Lieut.,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Expedition. 

Note. — A  piece  of  coal  was  found  above  the  lake  [HeintzelmanJ. — A.  W.  G. 

Original  map  of  Private  Biederbick  not  reproduced,  but  its  features  have  been  incorporated  in  general 
map  of  Grinnell  Land. — A.  W.  G. 


Appendix  No.  55. — Sergeant  Linn^s  report  of  journey  into  Black  Rock  Vale. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yune  13,  1882. 
Sir  :  Pursuant  to  your  instructions,  dated  June  5, 1882, 1,  accompanied  by  Private  Bender  and  by  F.  T. 
Christiansen,  with  his  dog-team,  left  this  station  on  the  jth,  at  1 1.30  a.  m.,  for  Lake  Hazen.  Arrived  at  tent 
at  3.40  a,  m.  on  June  6,  cooked  supper,  and  slept  until  1 1  a.  m.,  when,  after  cooking  breakfast,  we  left  the 
tent  at  i  p.  m.,  taking  the  dog-team  farther  up,  for  about  a  mile,  and  then  sending  it  back  to  the  station. 
Arrived  at  mouth  of  Black  Rock  Vale  at  2.45  p.  m..  Bender  taking  bearings,  and  then  proceeded  up  the 
vale.  Traveling,  on  account  of  water  from  the  side  hills  mixing  with  the  soft  snow,  was  made  almost 
impossible  with  the  extemporized  wagon.  Arrived  at  head  of  lake  (Biederbick's  discovery)  at  6  p.  m.,  which 
I  judge  to  be  about  3  miles  long  and  1,000  yards  [9i4"'|  wide.  Camped  at  7.10  p.  m.,  cooked  supper,  and 
slept  until  8.40  a.  m.  June  7,  when  we  started  again,  following  the  valley,  and  taking  five  days'  rations, 
leaving  the  rest  with  tent  and  wagon  at  camp.  We  passed  a  gap  on  our  left  which  runs  S\V.  (true),  and  at 
2.17  stopped  and  saw  two  peaks.  Ascended  the  hill  and  found  that  the  peaks  seen  were  undoubtedly  of 
the  United  States  Range.  Camped  at  3.30  p.  m.;  ate  supper;  slept  until  10.05  P-  •"•  I-^ft  the  valley  at 
10.55  P-  ™'» climbed  hill  to  summit,  and  saw  a  small  lake,  1  mile  long  and  300  yards  [274""]  wide.  Crossed 
the  lake,  ascended  another  hill,  and  at  12.05  a.  m.  we  saw  the  United  States  Range  and  four  glaciers,  and 
the  northeast  end  of  Lake  Hazen.    Camped  at  1 2.30  a.  m. 


234 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


yutu  8. — Arose  at  1 1  a.  m.  and  got  breakfast.  Bender  taking  the  necessary  bearings,  started  at  11.30 
a.  m.  on  our  return  to  station.  Saw  in  the  valley  five  musk-oxen  and  five  geese.  Camped  at  9.15  p.  m. 
at  lake  [Heintzelman]. 

At  4.15  a.  m.  June  9  arose,  cached  remainder  of  rations,  and  started  at  4.55  a.  m.,  bringing  wagon  and 
sleeping-bag  to  the  tent.  Arrived  there  at  9.15  a.  m.,  cooked  tea,  and  at  10.15  a.  m.  started  for  the  station, 
where  we  arrived  at  5.15  p.  m. 

The  following  bearings,  with  prismatic  compass,  were  taken  by  Private  Bender: 


Date. 
1882. 

Hour  of 
oUservation. 

Observa- 
tion. 

Rearing. 

Harometer. 

Dtt;rtts. 

Imhel 

mm. 

June  6. 

2.4s  p.m. 

First 

20s 

29.78 

756.40 

4-3S  pm. 

Second... 

200 

29.01 

752.08 

June  7. 

8.41  a.  m. 

Third.... 

210 

29.64 

75284 

11.34  a.  m. 

Fourth  ... 

270 

29  52 

749-79 

12.31  P'  m- 

Fifth  .... 

259 

29.52 

749-79 

2.17  p.  m. 

.Sixth 

26s 

29.28 

743-70 

330  p.m. 

Seventh  .. 

2ri 

29-35 

745-48 

lo.SS  p.  m. 

Eighth... 

243 

29.78 

756.40 

June  8. 

1 .20  a.  m. 

Ninth 

220 

29.78 

756. 40 

Bearings  for  mountaiits  and  glaciers:  First,  for  mountain 
SW.,  181 ;  second,  mountain  in  center,  2jo;  third,  mountain  on 
NK.  end,  205.  F'irst  glacier,  SW.,  230;  second,  center,  265;  third, 
NVV.,  20s . 

I  am,  very  respectfully, 

David  Linn, 
Sfrgeant,  General  Service,  U.  S.  A. 

To  the  Commanding  Officer,  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  56. — Lieutenant  Lockwood'' s  report  of  launch  trip  up  Archer  Fiord. 

Fort  Conof.r,  Grinnei.l  Land,  Oitober  d,  1882. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report  of  a  trip  in  the  steam-launch  Lady  Greely,  niadt 
August  13  to  16,  pursuant  to  your  letter  of  instructions  of  August  12,  1882. 

August  13. — The  party  consisting  of  myself,  Sergeants  Brainard,  Ralston,  Cross,  and  Linn,  and  Private 
Frederick  left  the  station  in  the  launch  at  8.30  o'clock  in  the  morning,  taking  in  tow  the  English  boat 
Vitlorous,  with  Sergeant  Rice  and  a  party  for  Musk-ox  Bay.  We  reached  this  bay  without  event  or  delay 
and  took  the  party  about  half-way  to  its  head  when,  dropping  the  boat,  the  launch  proceeded  towards 
Archer  Fiord  via  the  western  entrance.  The  ice  was  in  small,  detached  pieces,  much  scattered  and  we 
made  a  straight  course.  Outside  the  ice  was  much  the  same  and  a  straight  course  was  taken  for  Keppel 
Head ;  however,  when  off  Miller  Island  several  large  floes  were  encountered,  which  made  necessary  a  detour 
to  the  right  towards  the  island.  Above  Keppel's  Head  the  fiord  was  found  almost  entirely  clear  of  ice,  and 
in  the  upper  part  it  was  rare  to  meet  with  even  a  small  piece.  Seeing  no  ice  in  front  I  inclined  to  the  left 
towards  the  southern  shore,  and  in  two  and  a  half  hours  we  were  quite  near  it,  not  far  from  opposite  Hillock 
Depot.  I  took  this  side  on  account  of  game.  The  north  shore  is  at  the  foot  of  a  continuous  line  of  steep 
cliffs,  while  that  along  which  we  now  continued  up  the  fiord  is  a  grassy  slope,  rising  gradually  to  the  hills 
some  miles  back  from  the  water.  In  places,  however,  these  hills  approach  the  shore,  and  here  and  there  the 
mountain  streams  have  formed  great  gaps  and  declivities.  We  soon  saw  a  herd  of  half  dozen  musk-oxen, 
but  though  we  approached  the  shore  very  cautiously  and  used  a  good  deal  of  strategy  after  landing,  they 
made  off  before  any  of  us  got  within  range.  A  few  miles  farther  on  we  got  two  musk-oxen  and  twenty  ptar- 
migan, and  soon  afterwards  seven  more  musk-oxen;  these  last  allowed  themselves  to  be  shot  down  without 


■■■ 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIF  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


235 


resistance.  They  were  a  mile  from  the  coast  and  thus  involve  1  a  great  deal  of  hilrjr  and  delay.  The  meat 
was  left  till  our  return.  A  good  many  seal  were  seen — the  entire  length  of  the  fiord — but  we  were  unsuc- 
cessful in  getting  any. 

August  14. — Reached  Bulley's  Lump  at  5  a.  m.,  after  several  hours  of  very  squally  wind  and  rough 
water;  the  launch  shipped  several  seas.  The  steep  cliffs  we  now  steamed  along,  within  a  few  yards  of, 
strange  to  say,  hardly  seemed  to  screen  off  any  wind ;  it  seemed  to  come  down  vertically,  and  in  one  place 
where  we  shot  a  number  of  geese  on  and  close  to  shore,  several  were  blown  out  of  sight  before  they  could  be 
got ;  yet  the  wind  was  from  the  south  all  the  time.  Klla.  Bay  is  walled  in  on  both  sides  by  steep  and  high 
cliffs,  which,  extending  inland,  form  a  valley  at  its  head  two  or  three  miles  wide  and  quite  level ;  this  valley 
obliques  to  the  right  a  few  miles  from  the  bay,  and  the  view  above  that  is  thus  cut  off.  We  reached  the 
head  of  the  bay  at  9.30  a.  m.,  and  thinking  the  water  deep  enough  I  ran  the  launch  ashore  at  the  mouth  of 
a  considerable  stream  which  runs  down  through  the  valley.  Just  before  this  two  musk-oxen  were  seen,  and 
I  sent  off  two  hunters  after  them.     By  noon  we  were  all  asleep  on  the  shore.     During  our  sleep  it  rained. 

August  15 Got  up  at  i  a.  m.  to  find  it  still  overcast,  with  the  launch  high  and  dry,  and  the  tide 

ebbing  out.  Out  from  shore  a  large  shoal  extended,  which  at  low  tide  was  bare  for  one-tjuartcr  of  a  mile  out. 
Feeling  stiff,  antl  also  uneasy  about  the  launch,  I  went  inlanti  but  a  short  distance;  starting  out  alone  after 
getting  something  to  eat  and  going  as  far  as  a  rocky  height  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley.  I  wjis  disap- 
pointed, however,  in  seeking  the  prolongation  of  the  valley  from  this  point.  I  saw  a  lake  of  some  extent 
some  distance  off  and  a  few  miles  from  it  the  glacier  (quite  a  large  one)  which  is  evidently  the  same  laid  down 
on  the  English  map.  I  got  back  in  two  hours.  The  two  musk-oxen  referred  to,  were  got,  and  this  morning 
another ;  also  three  hares  and  some  birds.  A  large  bone  of  some  mammal*  was  also  found.  The  sun  was  in- 
visible at  noon  and  before  and  after,  so  that  no  observations  were  possible.  At  1 1  a.  m.  the  launch  was  got 
afloat  (it  being  high  tide),  and  being  limited  to  three  days'  absence  from  the  station,  steam  was  got  uj)  and 
I  prepared  to  return.  We  started  at  1.20  p.  m.,  and  proceeded  some  miles  to  the  mouth  of  a  water-course  on 
the  south  shore  of  the  bay  where  1  had  observed  a  large  piece  of  drift-wood;  this  was  put  on  board.  Here 
and  at  the  head  of  the  bay  traces  of  Eskimo  were  observed.  I  stopped  at  Record  Point  and  left  a  short  notice 
of  the  trip  and  took  Lieutenant  Archer's  record.  A  small  glacier  was  noticed  in  Beatrix  Bay,  a  little  way 
off.  I  next  touched  at  Depot  Point,  but  failed  to  find  the  English  cache  of  rations  though  we  found  the 
place  where  there  apparently  had  been  a  cache  (/.  e.,  a  cavity  in  the  rocks  in  which  was  a  gunny  sack,  and 
outside  some  fragments  of  tobacco);  we  found  nothing  more  though  we  examined  the  locality  from  the 
launch  pretty  well,  running  close  along  shore  to  do  so.  The  "  Point "  is  a  mass  of  bowlders  lying  thick  and 
in  great  confusion  on  the  surface  of  a  steep  slope.  I  stopped  but  one-quarter  hour  as  there  was  a  doubt  of 
our  having  enough  coal  to  steam  back  with.  On  this  account  also  I  proceeded  direct  to  the  musk-ox  meat 
on  the  south  shore  and  thence  straight  for  Bellot  Island. 

August  16. — Off  Miller  Island  the  ice  was  found  crowded  pretty  close,  and  some  delay  was  experienced 
in  getting  through.  Conybeare  Bay  seemed  full.  After  this  we  proceeded  without  difficulty  via  the  west- 
ern entrance  and  the  north  side  of  Bellot  Island,  and  reached  the  station  at  5.08  a.  m.,  the  coal  just  sufficing. 

Game  brought  back. — 12  musk-oxen,  24  geese,  20  ptarmigan,  3  hares,  36  turnstone,  6  knots,  and  3  terns. 

Memoranda  from  Journal. — August  13,  8.30  a.  m.  left  station ;  9.15  a.  m.  off  east  cape  of  Musk-ox  Bay ; 
9.30  dropped  boat  in  tow;  10.30  on  line  with  SE.  end  Sun  Peninsula  and  Keppel's  Head;  1.53  p.  m.  op- 
posite Keppel's  Head;  4.20  to  5.38  and  6.30  to  9.00  p.  m.,  stopped  for  musk-oxen;  9.15  to  i  a.  m.,  August 
14,  stopped  for  musk-oxen;  5.05  a.  m.  reached  Bulley's  Lump. 

Going  out  twenty-five  hours ;  less  stops,  about  seventeen  hours.  Coming  back  fifteen  and  three-quarters 
hours ;  less  stops,  fifteen  hours. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  B.  LocKwoou, 
Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O. 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A,  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 


*  Tills  was  evidently  the  bone  of  a  whala;  it  was  brought  to  Fort  Conger  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood.— A.  W.  G. 


If 


236  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Appendix  No.  57. — Lieutenant  Lockzz>ood^s  report  0/ launch  trip  up  Chandler  Fiord. 

Fort  Concer,  Grinnell  Land,  October  7,  1882. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report  on  my  trip  in  the  steam-launch  Lady  Greely  to  Ida 
Bay,  pursuant  to  your  orders  of  August  19,  1882  : 

The  party,  consisting  of  myself,  Dr.  Pavy,  Sergeants  Israel,  Rice,  Cross,  Linn,  and  Elison,  and  Pri- 
vates Frederick  and  Schneider,  left  the  station  at  8  a.  m.  August  19  and  reached  the  western  entrance  with 
little  or  no  <lelay,  and  then  made  an  attempt  to  cross  Lady  Franklin  Bay  in  order  to  leave  Dr.  Pavy 
and  Sergeant  Elison  on  the  south  shore,  as  contemplated  and  arranged,  but  after  many  delays  in  working 
through  the  ice  we  were  brought  to  a  standstill  not  far  from  shore.  Seeing  no  prospect  of  proceeding  I 
steered  for  Bcllot  Island,  and  getting  a  good  view  saw  so  much  ice  in  the  sound  [Archer  FlordJ  as  induced 
me  to  return.  \Ve  were  not  able  to  reach  the  station,  the  ice  having  shifted  its  position  in  the  east  end  of  the 
harbor,  but  landed  at  Proteus  Point.  Some  hours  afterwards  the  launch  was  enabled  to  reach  the  station. 
We  brought  back  six  geese  and  a  duck,  shot  near  Bellot  Island. 

Au^uit  21. — Started  again  in  the  launch  at  4  o'clock  p.  m.  with  the  same  party.  The  western  entrance 
was  reached  in  an  hour  (the  usual  time),  but  I  had  to  make  a  considerable  detour  towards  the  west  before 
an  opening  in  the  ice  enabled  the  launch  to  be  stoered  direct  for  Red  Bluff  (a  bluff  on  the  opposite  shore 
about  5  miles  from  Cape  Baird).  When  well  out  in  the  fiord  we  found  open  water,  perfectly  free  from  ice, 
but  on  nearing  the  southern  shore  we  again  met  the  floes.  However,  we  were  not  stopped,  though  delayed 
by  the  detours  necessary,  but  more  especially  by  a  strong  head  wind,  and  Iieavy  sea  which  frequently  came 
aboard.  This  existed  for  two  or  three  miles — between  the  ice  last  referred  to  and  the  shore.  Red  Bluff 
was  reached  at  8.30  p.  m.  After  landing  the  Doctor  and  Sergeant  Elison,  I  steered  direct  for  Miller  Island. 
We  encountered  no  ice  at  all  in  the  fiord,  but  the  strong  south  wind  raised  a  considerable  sea ;  the  island 
was  reached  at  11.30  p.  m. 

August  22. — We  continued  along  the  south  side  of  Chandler  Fiord.  About  opposite  the  west  end  of 
the  island  a  musk-ox  was  seen,  but  Sergeant  Israel,  Frederick,  and  Schneider,  who  went  ashore  after  him, 
were  unsuccessful  in  getting  within  range.  We  now  encountered  more  or  less  ice,  but  made  good  projjress, 
the  pieces  being  small  and  widely  separated.  After  discussing  the  objects  of  the  expedition  with  Sergeants 
Israel  and  Rice,  I  decided  to  land  at  the  mouth  of  a  conspicuous  valley  off  to  the  right  oblique  (on  the 
north  shore).  Here  a  good  (in  fact  the  only)  base  for  triangulation  offered  itself,  and  a  good  place  to  get  a 
set  of  observations  for  latitude  and  longitude,  &c.  After  a  rest  here  I  intended  going  on  up  the  fiord.  No 
satisfactory  standpoint  for  a  photograph  yet  offered  itself.  We  landed  accordingly  at  1.30  a.  m. ;  several 
hours  were  occupied  in  killing  and  bringing  down  a  musk-ox  several  miles  up  the  valley.  This  morning  the 
measurement  of  the  base  line,  the  several  series  of  observations,  and  sleep  occupied  the  time  till  3.30  p.  m., 
when  the  launch  again  started,  steering  for  Ida  Bay.  We  had  more  and  more  trouble  with  the  ice,  and  soon 
were  obliged  to  work  our  way  very  slowly  close  to  the  north  shore — brought  to  a  stop  every  few  minutes. 
In  this  way  we  reached  very  near  the  north  arm  of  the  fiord  when  progress  became  so  difficult  that  I  thought 
it  unadvisable  to  attempt  to  go  farther — indeed  it  was  hardly  possible.  To  the  south  and  west  extended  an 
immense  floe  of  old  ice  with  an  unbroken  surface.  Sergeant  Rice  and  others  thought  it  had  formed  here. 
We  had  been  working  our  way  between  the  edge  of  it  and  the  shore.  Sergeant  Rice  took  a  picture  of  the 
view  towards  Miller  Island.  After  this  still  seeing  no  prospect  of  advancing  I  turned  back.  We  get  out  of 
this  cut  lie  sac  with  difliculty  and  then  proceeded  to  the  mouth  of  a  ravine  on  the  south  shore,  about  oppo- 
site the  base  line  established  on  the  north  shore.  Here  I  found  extensive  traces  of  Eskimo — perhaps  two 
dozen  "  meat  caches  "  and  several  old  bone  implements.  Here  a  number  of  angles  were  taken  with  the 
transit  and  we  then  proceeded  to  the  west  end  of  Miller  Island  to  complete  the  survey.  The  ice  was  found 
pretty  much  as  before  till  we  got  here ;  but  here  a  large  floe  or  series  of  floes  stretched  from  the  island  a 
long  way  towards  the  northern  shore.  We  were  able,  however,  to  start  pretty  direct  for  Stony  Cape  by 
hugging  the  north  shore  of  the  island — delayed  at  only  one  or  two  places.  But  we  encountered  consid- 
erable delay  some  distance  further  on. 

August  23. — I  desired  to  take  observations  and  a  picture  at  Stony  Cape,  but  the  sun  was  invisible  and 
the  weather  by  no  means  favorable  for  either,  so  I  ran  up  to  the  head  of  Sun  Bay  to  take  a  rest  and  await 
better  weather.  We  cast  anchor  at  12.20  a.  m.  and  slept  on  shore.  I  walked  over  to  the  Bellows,  but  saw 
nothing.  It  rained  during  our  sleep,  and  when  we  got  up,  about  noon,  the  weather  was  still  bad.  At  2.25 
p.  m.  started  for  the  station.     Fifty  minutes  were  occupied  in  reaching  Cape  Clear,  after  much  turning  and 


vwnnK^nn 


!■■ 


W 


MuMk  ftr  Bag\ 


Chart  siiowinu  ExcuRsroNS  of 

Stbam  Launch  "Lady  Greely,"  during 

THE  Summer  of  1882.' 

To  Cape  Cracrufi,  Aug,  Tih. 

To  Ella  Bay,  Aug.  lSth-16th. 

Acro»  Sound  and  up  Chandler  Fiord,  Aug.  Slit— 38d. 

To  Red  Bluff  and  C.  Baird  Depot,  Aug  Mth— aTth. 

J.  R  LOCKWOOD, 

ad  Ueut.2gdInr.A.S.O. 

10  miles  (geo). 


OcogrspMcil  Milei 

I    I    I    I    I    I    I — '    ■    ■    ' 
0  »  10 


Mi 


' 


ii 


if. 


^IFWiil 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


237 


twisting  among  the  floes.  Here  we  got  in  heavy  ice  which,  moving  in  o|)|)osite  directions  quite  rapidly,  threat- 
ened to  crush  the  small  boat  towed  behind,  and  farther  along  the  coast  the  large,  rapidly  moving  floes 
threatened  the  launch  herself.  However,  in  two  and  one-half  hours,  by  keeping  close  to  shore,  and  after 
many  stops,  we  reached  the  western  entrance,  and  after  more  of  the  same  kind  uf  navigation  (though  with- 
out risk)  we  reached  the  station  at  7.30  p.  m. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  B.  LocKwoon, 
SfconJ  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O, 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greklv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A,  S,  O.  ami  Assistant,  Commanding. 


Appenuix  No.  58. — Dr.  Pavy^s  orders  to  proceed  to  Carl  Hitter  Bay. 

Fort  Conger,  Gkinnell  Land,  August  19,  1882. 
Sir:  You  are  hereby  ordered  with  Sergeant*  Klison  to  examine  Judge  Daly  Promontory  for  an  overland 
route  from  Cape  Baird  to  Cape  Defosses  or  Carl  Ritter  Bay. 

Such  provisions  and  equipment  as  you  may  designate  will  be  furnished.     Lieutenant  Lockwood  has 
instructions  to  lanil  you  from  the  launch  Lady  Greely.     In  case  of  any  delay  provisions  in  depot  at  Cape 
Baird  will  be  available  as  per  inclosed  memorandum. 
I  am,  respectfully,  yours, 

A.  W.  Grkei.v, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy, 

U.  S.  Army. 


Appendix  No.  59. — Sergeant  Elison's  report  of  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  Nor'ember  2,  1882. 

Sir:  In  accordance  with  instructions  received  from  you,  I  herewith  respectfully  submit  the  following 
report  taken  from  my  diary : 

August  21,  1882. — Doctor  Octave  Pavy  and  myself  left  station  on  st<;^m-launch  under  command  of 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  3.55  p.  m.,  to  be  landed  on  south  side  of  Lady  Franklin  Bay;  landed  about  5  miles 
west  of  Cape  Baird  at  8.35  p.  m.  This  is  our  starting  point  for  an  overland  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay;  made  a 
cache  at  this  point  of  our  extra  clothing  and  provisions.  At  9.10  p.  m.,  with  about  25  pounds  strapped  to 
our  backs  each,  our  march  commenced.  We  ascended  a  steep,  rough  ravine  to  the  summit  of  the  first  hills, 
elevation  about  600  feet  [183'"].  From  here  we  took  a  westward  course  for  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile, 
then  nearly  due  south  for  about  3  miles.  Here  we  found  a  valley  leading  southwest ;  so  far  we  had  to 
travel  up  and  down  hills.  At  this  point,  about  4  miles  from  the  starting  point,  we  saw  5  musk-oxen;  3  took 
to  flight  on  our  appro.ich.  A  cow  and  calf  stood  facing  us.  I  killed  the  cow  and  calf,  dressed  the  calf  and 
took  the  entiails  out  of  the  cow;  it  took  us  about  one  hour.  At  12.30  a.  m.,  August  22,  we  started  again 
traveling  through  the  valley  in  a  southwest  direction ;  traveling  good.  The  valley  is  nearly  level  and  from 
50  to  400  yards  [46  to  366°']  wide.  A  small  river  [Pavy  river]  is  running  through  this  valley  about  10 
inches  [254"""]  deep  on  an  average,  and  from  5  to  10  yards  [4.5  to  9"']  wide.  Went  in  camp  3  a.  m.  August 
22,  distance  traveled  about  1 1  miles,  weather  clear  and  pleasant.  During  our  march  we  noticed  a  large 
break  in  coast  range,  apparently  leading  to  Cape  Cracroft. 

August  22, — Got  up  at  9  a.  m.,  took  breakfast,  consisting  of  corned-beef,  and  hardbread  with  good 
cold  water.  At  9.30  a.  m.  we  started  again,  traveling  in  about  the  same  direction.  Mountain  range  along 
the  coast  is  high;  some  mountains  attain  the  height  of  about  2,000  feet  [610"'];  we  also  noticed  very  high 


'Corporal  in  original,  as  Elison's  promotion  to  sergeant  was  not  then  officially  known. — A.  W.  G. 


238 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


land  to  wcstwani  of  valley ;  mountain  tops  covered  with  snow,  At  10.30  a.  m.  we  struck  a  small  lake  about 
500  yards  [457"']  long  by  al)out  200  yards  [iSj"']  wide;  the  lake  is  oval  in  shape,  water  clear,  free  of  ice  and 
apparently  deep,  banks  steep;  had  to  travel  over  the  hills  to  get  around  it.  At  1 1.45  a.  m.  we  got  to  another 
lake  of  al)out  the  same  dimensions  as  the  former,  banks  also  steep.  At  12.45  P-  '^'-  ^'^  K<^'  ^^  another  lake, 
which  is  the  largest  of  the  three.  It  is  iibout  one-half  mile  [805™]  long  and  .^00  yards  [274*1  wide;  it 
narrows  somewhat  toward  each  end.  'I'his  lake  had  a  belt  of  ice  in  its  center  about  25  yards  [23"']  wide, 
extending  nearly  its  whole  length;  water  very  clear,  banks  steep.  Alwut  4  miles  northwest  of  Cape  Dcfosses 
we  got  to  the  divide  of  the  valley.  From  here  out  the  valley  turns  to  e.ist  by  south,  and  the  decline  is  quite 
rapid,  but  could  be  traveled  by  sledges  during  winter  and  early  spring.  We  traveled  on  the  east  side  of  the 
last  lake,  struck  a  wide  valley  about  2  miles  west  by  north  of  Ca|)e  Uefosses.  Judging  from  the  amount  of 
water  flowing  in  three  branches,  there  must  be  a  mountain  stream  from  the  norths  est  to  furnish  this  supply 
of  water.     Went  in  camp  at  3,30  |).  m.  August  22,  about  2  miles  inland  from  Cape  Defosscs. 

AHfiiisI  23. — dot  up  at  1.30  a.  m.  Left  camp  at  2  a.  m, ;  the  opening  at  Cape  Defosses  is  about  1  mile 
wide.  From  here  out  we  traveled  along  the  coast ;  traveling  fair,  but  tiresome ;  there  is  loose  gravel  along 
the  beach.  Went  in  camp  10.10  a  m.,  distance  traveled  about  15  miles;  it  snowed  several  times  during  the 
day.  (fot  up  at  6.45  p.  m.  Left  camp  7  p.  m.,  traveling  about  the  same,  went  in  camp  1.30  a,  m.  August 
24  got  up  at  7  .a.  m.,  took  a  drink  of  water  and  started,  leaving  our  traps  behind.  Arrived  at  Carl  Ritter 
Bay  8.15  a.  m.  .\ugust  24;  found  cache  undisturbed  .and  in  good  condition.  Doctor  Fnvy  deposited  a 
record.  It  Wtis  cloudy  when  we  arrived  here,  and  we  only  could  see  about  5  miles  to  the  south ;  the  channel 
is  free  of  ice  from  Cape  Lieber  to  here,  and  as  far  south  as  we  could  see.  On  our  way  here  along  the  coast 
we  could  see  numerous  flocks  of  dovekies,  perched  on  grounded  floebergs  near  shore;  I  counted  22  on  one 
berg.  Saw  musk-ox  tracks  at  Carl  Ritter  Bay.  Vegetation  is  very  scarce  around  here.  The  coast  has 
numerous  bends  and  sharp  projecting  points,  which  could  not  be  passed  at  high  tide.  At  C.a|)e  Back  we 
had  difliculty  in  crossing  at  low  tide.  Made  camp  3.50  p.  m.,  having  made  a  good  day's  march.  Got  up 
at  3.30  p.  m.,  started  at  9,  arrived  at  Cape  Defosses  3.15  a.  m. 

Aii}^tst  25. — Went  in  camp  3.45  a.  m.  Got  up  9.15  a.  m.  Started  9.30  a.  m.,  traveling  in  the  valley. 
In  going  around  the  last  lake  on  our  w.ay  back,  we  went  down  a  r.avine,  trying  to  get  in  the  valley,  but  we 
got  to  a  cascade  or  small  w.atcrfall,  which  late  in  the  season  freezes  and  then  forms  a  gl.acier  on  a  small 
scale-  We  rolled  our  knapsacks  down ;  I  then  attempted  to  slide  down  myself.  I  made  holes  in  the  ice 
with  a  large  knife.  I  went  down  about  3  feet  [0.9"']  when  all  at  once,  while  I  was  digging  a  hole,  I  slipped 
anil  went  down  about  30  feet  [9'"]  quicker  than  I  can  describe  it.  Doctor  Pavy  concluded  it  would  be 
safer  to  go  around  the  clifls.     I  got  off"  with  a  slight  bruise.     Went  in  camp  4.45  p.  m. 

Aiigiisf  25. — Got  up  9.1 5  p.  m.  Started  9.30 ;  saw  2  musk-oxen  .ibout  400  yards  [366""]  off  .about  i  a.  m. 
August  26.  Arrived  at  our  cache  of  meat  1.30  a.  m.,  where  we  made  a  fine  meal  of  musk-ox  veal.  We 
carried  2  empty  beef-cans  and  some  willows  for  about  15  miles,  but  we  were  amply  repaid  for  our  labor,  as 
this  is  our  first  warm  meal  sint:e  we  left  station.  The  sly  Arctic  lox  visited  our  meat  while  we  were  gone 
and  nothing  would  do  him  but  tenderloin.  We  took  about  25  pounds  of  the  meat  with  us,  the  rest  we 
covered  with  rocks.  Arrived  at  our  starting  point  4.30  a.  m.  August  26;  made  some  tea  and  took  a  lunch. 
We  rested  a  few  hours  ami  at  7.30  a.  m.  started  again  for  the  tent  near  Cape  Baird,  at  which  place  we 
arrived  9.30  a.  m.  August  26.  Found  tent  blown  down,  we  pitched  it  and  are  (juite  comfortable  now.  I 
got  up  at  s  p.  m.  and  started  toward  Cape  Lieber  across  the  hills.  I  found  a  wide  valley  here  about  i 
mile  north  of  Lieber,  leading  to  westward.  Judging  from  the  way  we  traveled,  I  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  this  must  be  a  part  of  the  valley  we  traveled  through.  I  estimate  the  distance  to  where  we  struck  the 
valley  from  5  to  6  miles;  I  must  state  here,  that  at  the  point  where  we  first  struck  the  valley  on  our  way  to 
Carl  Ritter  Bay  the  valley  turns  to  east  by  north.  Steam-launch  arrived  11.30  p.  m.  August  26,  arrived  at 
Fort  Conger  5-40  a.  m.  August  27. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

Joseph  Elison, 
Sergeant,  Company  E,  Tenth  Infantry,  U,  S.  A, 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  0.  end  Asiistant,  Commanding  Expedition. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPKDITIOX. 

Appendix  No.  6o. — Sergeant  lirainanVs  re/nirl  .>/ trip  to  Carl  Ritler  Hay. 


239 


OnicE  Chief  Signal  OrKicKK, 

iriisAifijfton,  D.  C,  yutu  25,  1885. 

Sir:  In  accor«lance  with  your  verbal  instructiotis  of  this  date,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  ToHowinK 
report  of  a  sicdye  journey  from  Fort  Conger  to  Carl  Kilter  Hay,  during  the  autumn  of  i88j,  by  Dr.  I'avy, 
Jens  Kdward  (Kskimo),  and  myself.  This  trij)  was  undertaken  for  the  puriwse  of  ascertaining  the  condition 
of  the  ice  in  Kennedy  Channel;  to  investigate,  if  possible,  the  causes  of  the  non-arrival  of  a  relief  vessel,  and 
for  general  observation : 

We  left  Fort  Conger  at  7.30  a.  m.,  October  27,  1882  (eleven  days  after  the  departure  of  the  sun),  with 
provisions  and  ccjuipment  for  ten  «lays,  hauled  on  one  of  the  heavy  sletlges  by  eleven  dogs.  Temperature, 
—  14.0'  [—25.6°  C).  After  passing  Breakwater  Point  we  shaped  our  course  for  Cape  Baird,  long  tletours 
being  frequently  necessary  to  avoid  obstructions  in  the  form  of  heavy  masses  of  paleocrystic  ice,  which  we.e 
founil  to  have  attained  great  elevations  fiom  the  .ffects  of  pressure  to  which  the  exposed  position  of  the  bay 
subjected  it.  Our  progress  was  very  slow  and  difficult.  In  passing  over  an  unusually  rough  ])lace  the  rear 
cross-tie  of  our  sledge  wiis  broken,  and  we  were  detained  in  conse<|uencc  for  some  time.  Jens  finally  repaired 
it  in  a  nnjst  skillful  manner,  and  we  resumed  our  course.  To  our  great  embarrassment  we  discovered  late  in 
the  afternoon  that  our  watch  had  stopped  at  2.40.  Judging  it  to  be  about  three  hours  later,  the  time-piece 
was  set  accordingly. 

Reached  the  depot  tent  near  Cape  Baird  at  7.30,  and  after  a  hearty  meal  proceeded  on  our  journey. 
In  following  the  ice  foot  around  the  cape  we  experienced  great  difficulty  in  advancing  our  sledge,  owing  to 
the  huge  blocks  of  iue  which  had  been  crushed  against  this  point  by  pressure  from  the  northern  pack.  'I'he 
gloom  and  darkness  of  an  Arctic  night  added  to  our  embarrassment  in  the  selection  of  a  route  through  the 
rough  places.  Assuming  that  the  route  by  Cape  Liebcr  was  impracticable  owing  to  ojicn  water,  we  (Wided 
to  take  advantage  of  the  valley  explored  by  llr.  Pavy  and  Sergeant  Elison  in  August,  1882,  which  extends 
diagonally  through  Judge  Daly  Peninsula  from  Cape  Baird  to  Cape  Defosses.  Moving  for  a  short  distance 
up  this  valley,  we  camped  at  1 1.15  p.  m.,  very  much  fatigued  from  the  eflects  of  the  severe  toil  of  the  day. 

Oitol'cr  28. — Clear  and  calm  weather,  temperature,  —  1 7.0°  [  —  27.2°  C.J.  We  passed  a  very  comfortable 
night  so  far  as  the  colil  weather  was  concerned,  but  the  dog-skin  sleeping-bag  furnished  me  by  the  doctor 
was  decidedly  too  short,  and  the  cramped  position  in  which  I  was  compelled  to  lie  was  anything  but  pleasant 
to  me.  Starting  at  7.30  a.  m.,  we  at  once  entered  a  narrow,  tortuous,  and  reeky  gorge  with  almost  vertical 
walls  and  a  rough,  stony  bed  which  was  far  from  agreeable  to  travel  over.  I'he  valley  soon  widened  some- 
what, and  its  sides,  no  longer  precipitous,  sloped  gradually  away,  ending  in  low  hills.  About  twelve  ^  <l°« 
from  its  entrance  at  Cape  Baird  the  valley  suddenly  opened,  spreading  out  in  a  broad  plain  at  least  fi-c  t 
wide.  Reaching  the  first  lake,  we  found  the  traveling  on  its  surface  to  be  the  best  that  we  had  exp-': ....  .u 
on  the  trip.  The  incessant  trotting  of  the  dogs,  the  bright  moonlight,  and  the  exhilarating  air  tended  :o 
elevate  our  spirits  and  render  the  journey  a  pleasant  and  exceedingly  interesting  one.  At  4.15  p.  m.  we 
camped  on  Lake  No.  i,  near  Elison's  Slide  (so  named  from  his  having  fallen  from  a  small  glacier  in  the 
vicinity),  and  obtained  an  excellent  supply  of  fresh  water  by  cutting  through  33  inches  [838"'"']  of  ice. 
During  the  day  we  had  met  with  many  fresh  tracks  of  hares  and  foxes,  and  one  of  the  former  was  seen  and 
pursued  but  not  captured.  When  it  was  observed  by  the  team  they  at  once  gave  chase  under  full  cry,  and 
carried  us  along  the  rugged  course  of  the  valley  at  an  alarming  rate  of  speed.  The  doctor,  who  was  holding 
on  to  the  upstanders,  made  desperate  and  gigantic  strides  to  maintain  pace  with  the  unruly  team,  but  finding 
his  efforts  unavailing,  he  loosened  his  hold  at  an  unfortunate  moment  and  was  plunged  into  an  adjacent 
snow-drift. 

On  the  29th  the  weather  was  calm  and  cloudy;  temperature,  —14.0"  [  — ss.CC.j.  S'arting  at  6.30 
a.  m.  we  all  rode  after  the  racing  dogs  over  a  surface  of  unparalleled  smoothness  to  the  end  of  the  lake. 
Owing  to  the  dim  and  uncertain  light  we  made  a  mistake  by  taking  a  branch  valley  leading  to  the  west- 
ward, and  two  hours  of  the  best  light  were  unavoidably  lost.  Having  retraced  our  steps  to  the  proper  valley, 
we  passed  two  small  and  two  large  lakes,  and  reached  the  divide  at  10.30  a.  m.  A  quick  drive  of  four  miles 
brought  us  to  the  coast  just  south  of  Cape  Defosses.  The  narrow  ravine  which  we  entered  soon  after  leaving 
the  divide  opened  out  into  a  valley  of  considerable  extent,  but  again  narrowed  to  a  rocky  gorge  until  it 
was  scarcely  wide  enough  to  admit  the  passage  of  the  sledge.    Reaching  the  ice-foot  at  12  m.,  we  passed 


240 


TBB  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


r:h 


through  a  chaotic  mass  of  hummocks  and  rubble  ice,  emerging  on  a  smooth  floe  of  newly-formed  ice  which 
Jens  said  \vas  not  more  than  two  or  three  days  old.  But  being  over  4  inches  [loo'""']  in  thickness,  we  Iclt 
perfectly  secure,  and,  jumping  on  the  sledge,  the  dogs  bounded  away  over  the  mirror-like  surface  of  the  floe 
at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour.  Our  course  led  us  across  the  wide  indentation  of  which  Cape  Defosses  is 
the  northern,  and  Cape  Back  the  southern,  termination. 

The  exhilarating  and  exciting  ride  in  which  we  had  been  indulging  for  son;e  time  was  suddenly  brought 
to  a  close  by  the  runners  of  the  sledge  breaking  through  the  floe.  After  much  difliculty  the  sledge  was 
extricateii,  but  not  until  several  articles,  including  sleeping-bags,  were  thoroughly  saturated  with  water.  The 
doctor's  feet  were  also  wet,  but  Jens  and  myself  escaped  by  having  our  trousers  tied  tightly  down  over  our 
boots.  The  ice  was  very  thin  and  not  capable  of  sustaining  great  weight.  It  moved  with  a  wave  or  undu- 
lating-like motion  under  our  tread  in  passing  over  its  surface.  We  were  a  mile  from  shore  and  in  an 
extremely  hazardous  situation.  A  wrong  step,  a  careless  movement,  anil  we  would  have  been  plungetl  into 
ilie  dark,  forbidding  waters  beneath  us.  Working  carefully  tow.ards  shore,  we  soon  encountered  a  belt  of 
rubble  ice,  in  which  we  found  a  small  paleocrystic  floe,  on  which  our  tent  was  pitched.  Dark  clouds  were 
overhanging  the  channel  [Kennedy  Channel],  indicating  to  us  that  it  was  entirely  open.  The  clouds  were 
of  the  greatest  density  and  intensity  of  color  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Lieber.  South  of  Cape  Back,  how- 
ever, the  condition  of  the  sky  denoted  that  ice  had  accumulated  there  m  great  quantities. 

The  weather  on  the  30th  was  clear  and  calm,  the  temperature  only  —  2.0°  [  —  1 8.9"  C.].  This  rise  of  twelve 
degrees  in  the  temperature  since  the  night  before  we  attributed  to  our  close  proximity  to  the  open  water. 
Starting  at  5.15  a.  n:  ,  we  at  once  left  our  friendly  floe  and  again  ventured  on  the  new  ice,  which  Jens  pro- 
nounced perfectly  safe  ifter  the  addition  of  another  ni^iu's  frost.  The  (Greenland  coast  was  visible  and 
well  defined  throughout  the  day,  or  while  the  light  remained  good.  Not  far  from  our  camp  the  new  ice 
terminated  in  a  large  pbol  of  water,  which  compelled  us  to  take  to  the  ice-foot.  Good  traveling  was  alf.irded 
here,  but  in  many  places  the  passages  were  so  narrow  that  we  were  forced  to  clamber  along  the  steep  slopes 
above.  Near  Cape  Back  the  channel  was  open  to  the  Clreenland  coast  and  filled  with  a  restless  and  resist- 
less pack,  which  moved  about  subject  to  the  c.iprice  of  the  winds  and  tide.  At  aboui  noon  we  were  sur- 
prised to  observe  a  musk-ox  (juietly  grazing  on  the  gentle  slope  above  us.  Taking  one  of  the  dogs  (which 
I  was  compelled  to  drag  after  me),  I  started  in  pursuit,  but  the  ox  disappearing  up  a  narrow  ravine  leading 
to  the  interior,  I  concluded  to  abandon  the  chase.  While  returning  to  the  sledge  I  found  circles  of  stones, 
about  10  feet  [3'"]  in  diameter,  on  a  low  tableland  overlooking  the  channel,  which  had  once  secured  the 
summer  tents  of  a  wandering  tribe  of  Eskimo.  I  found  no  bones  which  bore  evidence  of  having  been 
worked  among  tlie  numerous  specimens  strewed  about  in  the  vicinity  of  these  circles.  Just  north  of  Cape 
Back  we  saw  two  cubical-shaped  blocks  of  ice  which  closely  resembled,  and  without  doubt  were,  icebergs. 
They  were  of  the  greatest  interest  to  us  because  of  their  being  farther  north  than  any  that  we  had  observed. 
We  rei;rctteil  that  lime  did  not  permit  us  to  investigate  more  fully  the  structure  and  origin  of  these  remark- 
able blocks  of  ice.  The  sky  clouded  early,  and  the  darkness  forced  us  to  camp  at  1.15  p.  m.,  on  a  narrow 
ice-foot  within  a  few  feet  of  the  water.     We  had  seen  numerous  tracks  of  foxes  and  hares  during  the  day. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  the  weather  was  cloudy  and  threatening.  Light  westerly  wind  prevailed, 
and  the  minimum  temperature  was  —4.0°  |  —20.0°  C.].  Light  snow  fell  during  the  early  morning,  but  ceased 
before  we  were  ready  to  start  on  our  march.  Above  our  camp  the  clitfs  rose  in  beautiful  castellated  towers 
to  a  height  of  over  3,000  ftet  [914"],  and  .it  their  base  was  the  accumulation  of  debris  which  had  been 
falling  from  their  sides  for  ages.  Starting  at  5.35  a.  m.,  we  found  very  good  traveling  for  the  first  two 
hours.  At  that  time  we  were  halted  by  a  formidable  wall  of  ice,  which  had  been  heaped  along  the  shore 
through  the  agency  of  the  pack.  As  it  would  require  hours  of  constant  and  patient  toil  to  efl!ect  a  pauaage 
nere  for  the  sledge,  we  resolved  to  leave  it  here  in  chjirge  of  the  fiiithful  native  and  proceed  on  foot  to  Carl 
Ritter  Bay.  After  walking  along  the  icefoot  for  about  three  miles,  we  reached  the  depot  und  found  it  in 
excellent  order.  We  had  been  trying  to  delude  ourselves  in  the  belief  that  we  would  find  triicesof  the  relief 
vessel  here,  and  had  pictured  to  ourselves  the  surprise  and  delight  of  our  comrades  at  Fort  Conger  when  we 
returned  to  thenj  with  mail  fresh  from  their  homes,  but  nothing  to  indicate  that  others  h.td  visited  this  spot 
was  found.  The  bay  was  frozen  solid  from  cape  to  cape,  but  outside  the  pack  was  moving  up  and  flown 
the  channel  under  the  influence  of  the  tide.  To  the  southward  a  strong  ice-blink  was  visible.  Depositing 
.1  record,  we  returned  to  the  sledge  and  traveled  homeward  until  1.15  p.  m.,  when  we  camped  on  the  narrow 
icefoot,  not  far  fiom  our  previous  camping  place. 


THE  LADV  FItANKLIX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


241 


We  rose  on  the  morning  of  November  i  lame,  tired,  anil  unrofrcshed.  The  creaking  and  doleful  sounds 
occasioned  by  the  grinding  pack,  which  was  but  a  few  feet  away,  ilid  not  tend  to  proihice  sleep-  Weather 
was  cloudy  and  the  temperature  —3.0"  [  —  19.4^  C].  Started  at  5-30  »•  nu,  facing  a  strong  northeast  wind, 
which  produced  disagreeable  results.  At  10  a.  m.,  while  passing  the  place  where  we  sav  the  musk-ox  on 
our  outward  trip,  we  were  greatly  surprised  to  find  another  standing  in  exactly  the  same  place.  He  w.ns 
speedily  shot,  and  a  few  choice  pieces,  together  with  the  liver,  were  taken  away.  I  think  the  presence  of 
this  animal  in  that  high  latitude,  and  at  that  season  of  the  year,  dissipates  completely  the  theory  of  the 
migration  of  animals  to  a  lower  and  more  congenial  latitude  during  the  winter  monlii--.  At  2  p.  m.  we 
camped  at  the  entrance  to  the  valley  near  Cape  Defosses.  For  a  long  time  we  had  been  traveling  in  almost 
total  darkness,  and  in  pitching  the  tent  we  were  compelled  to  grope  about  the  sledj;e  at  random  for  the 
articles  which  were  desired.  Our  dogs  had  grown  very  weak  uniler  the  diet  of  dried  t'ish  while  performing  the 
hard  work  which  the  wretched  traveling  had  imposed  on  tfiem.  These  fish,  it  appeared,  were  not  adapted 
for  these  animals  while  they  were  undergoing  prolonged  exertion. 

During  November  2  the  weather  was  cloudy,  and  the  wind  continued  to  blow  from  the  northeast  as 
it  had  ilone  the  day  before;  temperature,  —7.0°  [  —  21.7°  C.J.  We  started  at  5.10  a.  m.,  and  reached  the 
divide  at  10  o'clock.  By  barometrical  measurement  the  altitude  was  found  to  be  about  450  feet  [137"'). 
At  our  old  camp  on  the  lake  we  halted  to  refresh  ourselves  with  a  drink  of  water  and  a  light  lunch.  Snow 
began  falling  at  noon.  Our  dogs  became  very  weak,  and  unwilling  to  advance.  We  literally  pushed  the 
sledge  through  the  snow  without  material  assistance  from  them.  One  of  their  number  (Haby)  became  ex- 
hausted and  had  to  be  carrieil  on  the  sledge.  Our  discomfort  was  augmented  by  the  snow-storm,  which 
jjroduced  darkness  prematurely,  and  forced  us  to  travel  at  random.  After  struggling  along  through  the  storm 
and  darkness  until  2  p.  m.,  we  acknowledged  that  we  were  lost,  and  went  into  cami)  to  await  better  weather. 

Although  cloudy  on  the  morning  of  November  3,  the  weather  was  greatly  improved  over  the  day 
before.  Light  snow  fell  at  intervals,  and  the  temperature  stood  at  —  8.0"  (  —  22.2'' C).  Haby  was  found 
dead  and  stitfly  frozen  lying  near  the  tent.  She  was  1. 1  jn  with  us  for  future  use.  Starting  at  7.10  ii.  m.,  we 
were  fortunate  enough  to  "find  ourselves"  by  running  across  the  outwaril  tr.ick,  which  we  continued  to  follow 
so  long  as  daylight  permitted.  The  dogs  were  so  weak  that  we  hail  intended  to  travel  only  to  the  two  musk- 
oxen  killed  by  the  doctor  and  Eli.son  during  the  previous  August,  and  endeavor  to  restore  their  strength  by 
giving  them  a  good  meal.  Hut,  on  reaching  the  place,  it  was  found  that  foxes  had  stripped  every  particle 
of  flesh  from  the  bones  of  these  animals,  .so  nothing  rei  lained  for  us  to  do  except  to  continue  the  march. 
In  order  to  save  the  dogs  as  much  as  possible,  we  went  ahead  of  them  by  turns  and  selected  the  best  route 
jiossible.  Camped  at  i  p.  m.  near  the  northern  entrance  to  the  valley.  The  amount  of  snow  which  had 
fallen  during  our  absence  was  considerable,  and  the  traveling  rendered  very  heavy  in  consequence.  Four 
of  the  dogs  were  practically  useless,  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  the  remainiler  drew  the 
sledge  to  camp.  Baby  was  cut  into  sections  with  an  axe,  and  the  pieces  thrown  to  the  now  half-starved 
brute.s.  The  flesh  was  greedily  devoured  by  her  comrades,  apparently  without  the  slightest  pang  of  regret 
for  the  late  departed. 

Clear  weather  during  No\  ember  4,  temperature, —17.0"  [  —  27.2°  C.J,  A  brisk  northeast  wind  added 
much  to  our  discomfort  by  frequently  fio.sting  our  faces.  Left  camp  at  4.35  a.  m.  The  dogs  appeared  but 
.slightly  better  after  the  feast  which  the  death  of  poor  Haby  had  furnished  them  with.  No  remains  of  that  un- 
fortunate animal  were  found  except  a  fragment  of  the  lower  jaw,  with  a  tooth  protruding.  We  reached  the 
depot  tent  near  Cape  Baird  at  9  a.  m.  In  view  of  the  wretched  condition  of  the  dogs,  we  decided  to 
remain  here  until  the  following  day,  to  allow  them  to  recuperate  their  lost  strength.  Clear  weather,  and 
light  westerly  winds  during  November  5;  temperature,  —34.0°  [  — 36.7''C,J.  Started  from  Cape  Haird  at 
6  a.  m.,  the  dogs  apparently  in  good  condition.  We  shaped  our  course  diagonally  across  Lady  Franklin 
Htiy  to  the  western  entrance  of  Discovery  Harbor,  in  order  to  avoid,  if  possible,  the  rough  ice  which 
we  encountered  on  our  outward  trip  near  the  eastern  entrance.  We  found  the  ice  eijually  as  rough,  if 
not  worse,  than  on  the  outward  journey.  Tracks  of  a  large  wolf  were  seen  near  the  southeastern  point 
of  Hellot  Island.  While  passing  through  the  western  entrance  of  Discovery  harbor  the  light  became  so 
uncertain  that  progress  through  the  broken  pack  was  attended  with  the  greatest  danger  and  difticulty,  as 
the  numerous  bruises  on  our  limbs  could  testify,  llniler  certain  conditions  during  the  Arctic  night  the  light 
is  such  that  all  outlines  and  shadows  of  the  hummock  ice  are  lost,  and  the  roughest  ice-field  presents  the 
appearance  of  a  perfectly  level  floe. 
H.  Mis.  393 10 


1 


! 


! 


242 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


We  reached  Fort  Conger  at  5.30  p.  m.,  having  traveled  eleven  and  one-half  hours  without  halting  for 
an  instant.  We  were  in  excellent  condition,  and  could  record  no  accident  to  ourselves  of  a  more  serious 
nature  than  a  frosted  nose  and  slightly  blistered  ears. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

D.  L.  Brainard, 

Sergt.,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cav.,  A,  S.  O,  and  Asst,,  Comdg.  L.  F.  Bay  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  61. — Orders  establishing  day  of  Thanksgiving. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  No7'ember  27,  1882. 
(Orders  No.  7.) 

Thursday,  November  30,  1882,  being  without  doubt  the  appointed  day  of  National  Thanksgiving,  is 
hereby  designated  as  a  day  ot  thanksgiving  and  praise. 

Exemption  from  death  and  disease,  success  in  scientific  and  geographical  work,  together  with  the 
present  possession  of  health  and  cheerfulness,  may  well  be  mentioned  as  special  mercies  for  which  this  com- 
mand has  reason  to  be  devoutly  thankful.  ,    ^ 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieut.,  Fifth  Cav.,  A.  S.  O.  and  Asst.,  Commanding  the  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  62. — Dr.  Pavy's  letter  of  March  8,  1883. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  8,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  respectfully  submit  to  you  a  few  considerations  that  I  value  of  high  impor- 
tance as  concerning  the  future  health  of,  at  least,  a  part  of  the  command,  and  therefore  aliable  [liable]  to 
influence  the  chances  of  success  in  a  retreat  that  you  consider  inevitable. 

As  exposure  and  labor,  at  an  early  period  of  the  season  of  1883  may  result  in  grave  impairment  of  the 
health ;  as  also,  in  case  of  accident  of  a  serious  nature,  the  patients  would  probably  not  have  recuperated  in 
August,  becoming  then  an  encumbrance,  threatening  to  compromise  the  safety  of  all,  by  rendering  the  depart- 
ure impracticable,  (as  in  the  case  of  Dr.  Kane)  I  should  earnestly  recommend  that  no  work  entailing  expos- 
ure of  more  than  a  night  or  two  in  the  field  should  be  undertaken  during  the  month  of  March. 

My  personal  experience,  and  the  risks  run  last  year  by  our  early  parties,  with  the  examples  of  Dr.  Kane 
and  Sir  George  Nares,  satiesfy  [satisfy]  my  mind  as  to  the  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  sledging  during 
the  month  of  March. 

As  medical  adviser  of  the  expedition,  I  consider  it  my  duty  to  state,  that  although  the  health  of  the 
command  has  been  better  this  winter  than  the  previous,  it  will  nevertheless  not  be  submitted  with  impunity 
to  as  much  hardship  as  in  1882.  If  temporarily,  it  withstood,  it  would  certainly  be  at  the  expense  of  vital 
energies  that  I  think  of  the  highest  importance,  perhaps  of  necessity  to  husband,  in  view  of  the  future  work 
of  the  fall,  in  which  we  will  have  to  contend  with  contingencies  that  defeated  the  efforts  of  Sir  John  Ross 
and  the  detached  party  of  Dr.  Kane's  expedition. 

I  will  also,  respectfully  call  your  attention  while  it  is  still  time  to  the  important  question  of  coal ;  as  it 
would  be  probably  injurious  to  the  general  health  of  the  command,  even  perhaps  dangerous,  in  case  of 
sickness,  that  we  should  be  left  without  fuel  during  the  three  months  previous  to  our  departure. 

As  to  the  very  important  question  of  foot-gear,  I  should  earnestly  recommend  (considering  the  insecure 
state  of  the  mocasins  \sic\  and  Labrador  Esquimaux  boots)  that  each  man  employed  in  any  work  entailing 
exposure  for  several  consecutive  days  should  be  provided  with  an  extra  pair  of  boots  or  moccasins,  the  only 
appropriate  foot-gear  at  our  disposal. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be  very  respectfully  your  obt,  servant. 

Act.  Ass.  Surgeon  Octave  Pavy, 

To  the  Commanding  Officir. 


wiamimmm 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


243 


Appendix  No.  63. — Lieutenant  Greelfs  answer  to  Dr.  Pav/s  letter  0/  March  8,  /8Sj. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  9,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  this  day  of  a  communication  from  you  regarding 
the  future  operations  of  this  command. 

The  letter  was  undoubtedly  called  forth  by  the  prospective  departure,  on  March  10,  of  a  party  of  sixi 
with  dog-sledges,  to  establish  depots  on  which  depends  the  success  of  our  geograpuical  work  in  North 
Greenland. 

You  recomme.id  therein  that  the  energies  of  this  party  be  devoted  to  ensuring  such  conditions  as  would 
facilitate  a  retreat  by  boats — a  possible  contingency,  but  not  inevitable  as  you  state  it. 

The  grounds  upon  which  you  make  this  remarkable  recommendation  are  but  in  part  medical,  and  depend 
largely  on  future  contingencies,  /.  e.,  "  the  fortunes  of  war,"  which  may  disable  some  member  of  tbe  party  and 
so  encumber  out  possible  retreat. 

You  admit  that  the  health  of  the  party  has  been  better  this  winter  than  in  i88i-'82,    •     •     •     • 


This  expedition  was  planned  and  fitted  out  solely  for  the  purpose  of  increasing  our  knowledge  of  the 
Arctic  regions.  While  I  have  the  honor  to  command  it,  and  as  long  as  I  am  fit  for  duty,  I  shall  continue  to 
pursue  the  object  in  view. 

In  assuming  charge  of  this  work  I  considered  it  important  and  dangerous.  As  an  American  soldier  I 
have  yet  to  learn  that  any  prospective  dangers  or  accident  should  deter  a  man  from  pursuing  to  his  utmost 
any  end  which  is  in  the  line  of  one's  duty,  and  instead  prepare  for  a  prospective  retreat. 

To  practically  abandon  it  and  think  only  of  personal  safety,  especially  at  a  time  when  there  seem  pos- 
sible discoveries  which  would  be  valued  by  the  world  and  creditable  to  my  country,  would  be  difficult  for 
me  even  under  the  most  adverse  circumstances,  but  now,  under  favorable  circumstances,  would  appear  dis- 
honorable and  unmanly.  Could  I  for  a  moment  listen  to  such  a  recommendation,  your  mention  of  Kane's 
name  evokes  to  my  memory  such  an  example  of  perseverance  under  trying  and  adverse  circumstances  as 
would  render  such  action  impossible. 

Your  recommendations  will  not  be  followed  in  this  respect. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S,  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 


Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Paw,  U.  S.  Army. 
[•••••♦••A  line  and  a  half  wl 


ii  cannot  be  made  out  from  the  letter-press  copy.] 


Appendix  No.  64. — Lieutenant  Lockwood'' s  orders  for  preliminary  journey  northward.^  iSSj. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  8,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  direct  that  you  continue  this  spring  in  North  Greenland  the  work  of  explora- 
tion which  was  pushed  by  you  in  1882  to  Hazen  Coast  with  so  much,  energy  and  success.  In  connection 
with  the  work  there  will  be  under  your  full  control  three  selected  men,  the  two  Eskimo  with  sledges,  and 
the  best  twenty  dogs. 

As  has  been  previously  understood  the  work  looks  to  a  preliminary  trip  to  Greenland  via  Lincoln  Bay 
the  first  favorable  weather,  and  subsequently  an  extended  journey  of  fifty  to  sixty  days'  duration,  in  which 
the  second  sledge  will  accompany  you  as  far  as  it  can  be  useful.  About  400  pounds  of  supplies  at  Polaris 
Boat  Camp,  and  150  pounds  at  Cape  Bryant,  cached  by  you  in  1882,  will  be  used  during  the  trip.  Dog- 
food  and  other  supplies  are  largely  cached  at  depot  A,  B,  and  C,  and  at  Lincoln  Bay ;  the  quantity  and 
kind  at  each  point  you  are  familiar  with. 

Your  recommendations  regarding  the  sledge  ration  are  in  general  approved,  and  when  once  in  the  field 
it  will  consist  of  butter,  two  ounces ;  bread,  ten  ounces ;  sugar,  two  ounces ;  tea,  one-half  ounce,  or  choco- 
late, two  ounces;  milk,  one-half  ounce ;  salt,  one-third  ounce;  pepper,  one-twentieth  ounce;  alcohol,  sijc 


I 


i  l1 


244 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


ounces j  lime-juice,  one  ounce ;  meat,  two  ounces :  one-half  the  meat  will  be  fresh,  and  the  remainder 
divided  between  sausage,  pemmican,  bacon,  and  English  beef.    The  arrangement  and  carrying  out  of  the 
necessary  details  are  left  to  your  judgment  and  discretion. 
I  am,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S,  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 

Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Infantry,  Acting  Signal  Officer. 


Appendix  No.  65. — Lieutenant  Lockwood''  s  report  on  Journey  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  64. 

Fort  Conuer,  Grinnell  Land,  March  iq,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  render  the  following  report  of  a  preliminary  sledge  trip  to  the  Greenland  coast, 
pursuant  to  your  letter  oi  instructions  of  the  8th  inst. 

The  outfit  consisted  of  two  sledges — Antinnctte  and  Adola — and  teams  of  ten  dogs  each ;  myself.  Ser- 
geant Brainard,  and  Frederik  Thorlip  Christiansen  (Eskimo)  with  one,  and  Sergeants  Jewell  and  Elison,  and 
Jens  Edwards  (Eskimo)  with  the  other.  Rations  and  dug-food  on  a  liberal  basis,  for  ten  days,  and  also  extra 
dog-food,  &c.,  for  use  of  the  contemplated  exploring  expedition. 

The  party  left  Fort  Conger  March  10  at  8.40  a.  m.,  and  proceeded  north  along  the  coast.  Depot  A 
(Cape  Murchison)  was  reachc<l  about  12  m.  Here  additional  dog-food,  &c.,  was  taken  on,  making  the 
draught  weight  of  each  team  about  930  pounds.  The  sheep-skin  sleeping-bag  and  rubber  blanket  were  also 
taken  from  here.  Continuing  on  I  reached  depot  B  (5  miles  south  of  Cape  Beechey)  at  4.05  p.  m.  Ser- 
geant Jewell  with  the  second  sledge  came  in  half  an  hour  later.  The  traveling  thus  far  was  never  better. 
We  camped  here  for  the  night,  occupying  the  depot  tent  and  one  of  the  two  tents  brought  along.  The  two 
sacks  of  pemmican  left  here  last  fall  were  not  to  be  found.  Traces  of  foxes  were  found  in  the  tent  and 
around,  and  these  animals  had  doubtless  eaten  the  pemmican.  Sergeant  Elison  got  sick  on  the  road  up, 
complaining  of  pain  in  the  legs,  fever,  &c.  Could  do  nothing  for  him  but  make  him  as  comfortable  as  pos- 
sible in  the  depot  tent  where  we  had  a  little  stove  and  fire.     Weather  fine;  thermometer  very  low. 

March  1 1 . — Sergeant  Elison  said  he  was  all  right  and  could  go  on.  Wooley,  one  of  the  dogs,  was 
quite  lame  and  weak,  and  I  left  him  behind  tied  to  a  stake  in  a  hole  dug  in  the  snow — leaving  him  some 
hard  bread  for  food.  We  started  at  10.30  a.  m.,  and  reached  Cape  Beechey  without  event.  Here  but  one 
sleeping-bag  could  be  found,  of  the  two  3-man  bags  left  by  me  last  spring.  The  rubber  blanket,  two  tents 
and  poles  were  found.  I  sent  Sergeant  Jewell  and  his  sledge  back  for  the  two  sheep-skin  bags  left  at  depot 
B  and  continued  on.  From  an  elevation  of  a  hundred  feet  [30'"]  or  more,  so  much  rubble-ice  was  seen  in  the 
straits  on  a  direct  line  with  my  objective  point,  Cape  Brevoort,  that  I  decided  to  continue  along  the  coast 
via  Wrangel  Bay,  and  possibly  Lincoln  Bay,  with  the  double  object  of  obtaining  the  pemmican  and  meat 
expected  at  those  places,  and  of  finding  a  better  route  across  the  strait.  In  the  first  object  I  was  partially 
disappointed,  and  in  the  latter  entirely.  There  was  no  ice-foot  above  Beechey,  and  the  straits  parallel  with 
the  coast  presented  little  else  than  heavy  rubble-ice.  We  made  slow  progress  and  had  to  work  continuously 
with  the  ax.  At  4.35  p.  m.  we  were  half  way  between  Beechey  and  Wrangel  Bay.  Wishing  Sergeant 
Jewell  to  catch  up  I  pitched  the  tent  and  sent  Sergeant  Brainard  back  with  team  for  half  the  load  which  had 
been  left  behind  a  mile  or  more.  He  returned  with  it  at  6  o'clock,  and  with  our  help  Sergeant  Jewell  got 
up  with  his  team  and  load  at  6.30  p.  m.     Weather  clear  but  cold. 

March  12. — I  got  up  at  7  o'clock  and  cooked  breakfast,  and  we  got  off  by  9.45  a.  m;  the  traveling 
very  bad ;  floes  few  and  small.  We  encountered  rubble-ice  in  great  quantities  all  day.  Got  into  shore  and 
followed  along  the  foot  of  the  high  cliffs  some  distance,  but  most  of  the  route  was  some  distance  out  in  the 
straits.  Reached  the  south  cape  of  Wrangel  Bay  at  2.30  p.  m.  The  rubble-ice  in  the  bay  and  to  the'north 
looked  so  rough  that  I  determined  to  proceed  hence  direct  to  Cape  Brevoort  and  visit  the  caches  at 
Wrangel  and  Lincoln  Bay  on  my  return,  when  the  loads  on  the  sledges  would  be  inconsiderable.  I  changed 
my  course  accordingly  and  pursued  a  laborious  way  with  the  constant  use  of  the  ax  till  5.10  p.  m.,  when  the 
men  being  very  tired,  we  camped  on  the  edge  of  a  mass  of  rubble-ice. 


■'Siamimim 


MB  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


245 


March  13. Sergeant  Brainard  arose  to  cook  breakfast  at  5.30  a.  m.     Shortly  afterwards  Sergeant  Elison 

was  reported  sick;  he  had  something  the  matter  with  his  stomach,  and  had  no  appetite;  felt  too  unwell  to  go 
farther,  but  thought  he  could  walk  back  to  depot  B  by  himself.  He  was  evidently  too  sick  for  the  latter  and 
I  sent  him  back  on  the  second  sledge,  giving  him  a  drink  of  hot  rum  before  starting.  Leaving  the  two 
tents  standing,  I  went  forward  at  8.20  with  the  first  sledge.  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Christiansen  raking  a  load 
of  600  pounds.  After  proceeding  through  the  rough  ice  about  i  ^  miles,  we  came  to  a  level  floe  of  new  ice, 
which  was  succeeded  by  an  immense  floe  of  ancient  ice,  gently  undulating  like  a  prairie,  and  affording  excellent 
traveling.  A  severe  wind  from  the  north  acted  as  an  offset  to  this,  however,  and  frostbites  were  frequent. 
At  2  p.  m.  we  were  more  than  half-way  ticross  the  straits,  and  leaving  the  load  we  returned  to  camp,  reaching 
it  at  4.  30  p.  m.     Sergeant  Jewell  returned  about  an  hour  later. 

March  14. — At  8.45  a.  ;n.  the  two  sledges  started  forward  with  everything.  On  reaching  the  large  floe 
referred  to,  I  transferred  both  loads  to  Christiansen's  sledge  and  detacht  l  Sergeant  Jewell  and  team  to  visit 
Lincoln  Bay,  the  traveling  thence  from  this  place  seeming  good,  and  on  his  return  to  visit  VVrangel  Bay; 
directing  him  to  leave  what  he  found  in  cache  at  the  south  cape  of  the  latter.  About  three  quarters  of 
an  hour  after  passing  the  rations  brought  forward  yesterday,  we  came  to  rough  ice  -gain.  Towards  Cape 
Brevoort  the  prospect  looked  very  discouraging,  but  better  farther  to  the  south.  Everything  considered,  I 
thought  it  best  to  oblique  to  the  right  towards  Newman  Bay.  We  struggled  through  some  very  rough  ice 
till  5.30  p.  m.  and  then  camped.  A  noticeable  feature  in  the  rough  ice  on  both  sides  the  straits  was  the 
snow-drifts  running  north  and  south,  created  and  packed  hard  by  the  late  storms.  Thus  our  course  was  a 
series  of  zigzags,  and  the  difficulty  was  in  getting  from  one  ridge  to  another. 

March  15. — During  the  night  it  blew  violently  from  the  south,  but  the  tent  being  well  secured  withstood 
the  storm.  At  8.45  a.  m.  I  sent  Sergeant  Brainard  with  sledge  and  driver  back  for  pemmican,  &c.,  remain- 
ing behind,  and  some  time  later  started  myself  to  find  a  route  into  the  smooth  ice  of  Newman  Bay.  Inter- 
vening, some  good  floes  existed,  but  between  them  was  rubble-ice,  of  the  worst  possible  description,  entirely 
impracticable.  It  evinced,  to  my  mind,  strong  currents  and  heavy  pressure.  In  about  one  and  a  fourth  hours 
I  reached  the  Boat  Camp  and  satisfied  myself  that  the  cache  in  the  whale-boat  remained  intact.  I  then 
proceeded  along  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  to  Cape  Sumner;  along  the  land-foot  and  snow-slopes  there  was  a  sledge 
route,  but  not  very  good.  Between  Cape  Sumner  and  the  tent  I  found  a  good  route.  Reached  the  latter  at 
1.20  p.  m.  and  found  Sergeant  Brainard  just  returned.  The  time  till  5.30  p.  m.  was  occupied  in  transporting 
everything  to  the  land-foot,  half  a  mile  east  of  Cape  Sumner.  The  tent  was  then  pitched  on  the  ice  opposite 
the  latter,  and  then  Sergeant  Brainard  and  I  walked  to  the  Boat  Camp,  about  i^  miles  away,  and  made  a 
further  inspection.  Returned  at  8  o'clock,  and  at  10.30  went  to  bed.  The  cache  left  near  Cape  Sumner 
consists  of  175  pounds  rations,  804  pounds  dog-food,  alcohol,  rifle,  shotgun,  field  glasses,  medicines,  &c. 

March  16. — I  inspected  the  route  direct  to  Cape  Beechey  from  an  eminence  at  Cape  Sunmer,  and 
determined  to  return  direct,  having  only  constant  weights  on  the  sledge  (about  100  pounds).  We  got  off 
at  7.45  a.  m.,  traveled  over  smooth,  slightly  rolling  floe-ice  for  about  7  miles,  crossing  but  two  belts  of 
rubble-ice.  After  this  a  succession  of  the  two  was  met  with  till  near  Cape  Beechey,  but  the  floes  largely 
predominated,  and  the  journey  from  shore  to  shore  occupied  just  seven  hours.  Off  the  coast  near  Cape 
Beechey,  and  above  and  below  much  rubble-ice  exists.  We  reached  depot  B  at  4  p.  m.  Here  I  found 
Sergeant  Jewell  and  team.    Sergeant  Elison  had  left  for  the  station  with  the  lame  dog  Wooley. 

March  17. — We  suffered  a  good  deal  from  cold  at  night  during  the  trip,  though  the  temperatuie  was 
high,  except  for  the  first  day  or  two.  We  suflFered  especially  so  last  night.  Lamp  lighted  at  3.1 5  a.  m.,  and 
at  7  a.  m.  we  were  off.  At  depot  A  Wooley  was  found  and  brought  in  on  the  sledge.  Privates  Schneider 
and  Whisler,  with  pup-team,  were  met  near  by.  Fort  Conger  was  reached  at  i  p.  m.  One  sleeping-bag 
(2-man)  and  a  rubber  blanket  were  left  at  depot  B. 

The  report  of  Sergeant  Jewell  is  appended. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.    B.    LOCKWOOD, 

Second  Lieutenant,  Iwenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S,  O, 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Ju/th  Cavalry,  A.  S,  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 


i    ( 


I-' 


^46 


Appendix  No.  66. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITIOJT. 

-Sergeant  JczoeW  s  report  to  Lieutenant  lAKkivood  relative  to  journey 
ordered  in  Appendix  No.  6<f. 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  19,  1883. 

Sir:  In  compliance  with  your  verbal  instructions,  for  me  to  visit  the  English  cache  at  Lincoln  Bay 
and  to  procure  the  meat  left  there,  I  have  the  honor  to  state  that  upon  being  detached  m  ith  my  dog-team 
(Jens  Edwards,  driver)  from  your  party,  at  11.15  a.  m.  of  the  14th  instant,  I  shaped  my  course  as  nearly  as 
the  nature  of  the  ice  would  permit  for  Lincoln  Bay,  the  point  of  starting  being  about  10  miles  to  the 
southeast  of  Cape  Frederick  VI  I. 

The  ice  for  the  first  few  miles  consisted  of  large  paleocrystic  floes,  fringed  with  heavy  hummocky  ice 
forced  up  by  pressure.  As  I  approached  the, Grinnell  Land  shore  these  floes  became  smaller  and  I  was 
obliged  to  make  a  detour  to  the  south  of  my  direct  course.  When  within  about  a  mile  of  the  shore,  I 
noticed  one  floe  that  was  Hground,  as  shown  by  the  tidal  action  around  it,  this  indicating  much  shallower 
water  than  is  usually  attributed  to  Robeson  Channel,  or  a  much  greater  thickness  to  this  ice.  Not  having 
the  facilities  for  sounding,  I  was  compelled  to  forego  the  elucidation  of  this  very  interesting  question.  By 
hard  work  I  reached  the  cache  at  4.15  p.  m.,  having  had  much  trouble  to  get  inside  of  the  heavy  ice. 

During  the  night  I  experienced  a  heavy  gale  (southerly),  with  a  brisk  wind  continuing  until  morning 
(iSth).  After  breakfast  I  visited  the  cache  of  Dr.  Pavy,  where  I  found  two  boxes  of  beef;  returning  with 
these,  I  broke  camp  at  10.15  a.  m.,  and,  thinking  that  I  could  improve  on  my  route  of  the  day  before, 
made  more  directly  for  Cape  Frederick  VII,  but  soon  became  badly  entangled  in  very  heavy  ice  that  had 
been  piled  up  against  the  cape,  which  I  finally  reached  at  1 2  m.,  and  then  shaped  my  course  along  the 
coast.  But  instead  of.  the  smooth  new  ice  I  found  along  this  coast  a  year  ago,  everything  indicated  an 
immense  ice  irruption,  it  being  piled  up  to  a  great  height  along  the  coast  to  Wrangel  Bay.  At  places  I 
tried  to  use  the  ice-foot,  but  owing  to  floe-bergs  that  had  been  thrown  across  it,  I  found  it  unreliable,  and 
considered  it  to  my  advantage  to  travel  through  the  rubble-ice,  using  the  large  floes  when  possible. 

I  arrived  at  the  cache  in  Wrangel  Bay  at  5.45  p.  m.  but  could  find  no  traces  of  the  pemmican  left 
there  in  the  autumn  of  1881.  I  found  one  shovel,  some  canned  goods,  and  the  frame  of  a  pair  of  snow- 
shoes,  the  net-work  of  the  latter  having  been  eaten  out  by  foxes  or  some  other  animals.  I  broke  camp  at 
8.15  a.  m.  (i6th)  and  found  comparatively  easy  traveling  through  the  bay.  This  being  noticeable  in  com- 
parison with  the  character  of  the  ice  in  Lincoln  Bay,  the  pressure  in  the  latter  filling  the  bay,  while  in  the 
former  the  line  of  heavy  ice  was  very  well  marked,  extending  from  one  point  of  the  bay  to  the  other. 
Caching  the  meat  near  the  southern  point  of  the  bay,  in  accordance' with  your  instructions,  I  followed  our 
former  road  to  depot  B,  where  I  arrived  at  2.15  p.  m.,  and  was  joined  by  yourself  at  4  p.  m. 

In  accordance  with  additional  instructions  I  left  depot  B  at  8.15  a.  m.  the  next  morning  (17th)  for  the 
meat  cached  at  Wrangel  Bay,  reaching  that  point  at  11.30  a.  m. ;  and,  returning  again,  cached  it  at  the  cairn 
near  Cape  Beechey,  arriving  at  depot  B  at  3.20  p.  m.  Before  retiring  I  placed  all  the  dogs'  harnesses  and 
lashings  inside  of  one  of  the  empty  tents,  but  the  next  morning  I  found  to  my  consternation  that  the  dogs 
had  got  at  them,  and  nothing  remained  but  a  few  pieces  of  ivory  and  the  whip-stock;  these  being  spared 
by  them  on  account  of  their  indigestible  qualities.  I,  however,  found  a  piece  of  leather  in  stock  at  depof  B, 
and  having  a  small  coil  of  lashings  left,  the  dexterous  fingers  of  Jens  soon  fitted  us  out  with  eight  complete 
harnesses.     I  left  the  depot  at  1.30  p.  m.,  arriving  at  Fort  Conger  at  6.10  p.  m. 

The  only  animal  life  seen  during  the  trip  was  an  ermine,  about  one  mile  south  of  Brenta  Bay. 

Inclosed  herewith  you  will  find  a  report  of  meteorological  observations. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

W.  S.  Jewell, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  Armv. 

Second  Lieut.  J.  B.  LocKwoon, 

Commanding  North  GreenlamJ  Sledge  Party. 


f 

I 


I'AI.EOCKYSTIC    It  K    IN    KolllMlN    CllANNKI.. 
(Krom  II  pliDlograph.) 


TUB  LADY  I?RANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITIOK. 


247 


Rtportofnulforolo^icalobienations  taken  on 

trip  to  Lincoln  Bay. 

Date, 
1883. 

Time. 

12  m. 

6  p.  m. 
9  «.m, 
8  a.m. 

7i  .m. 
1  I'.m. 

Barometer 
No  16. 

Thermometer. 

Wind. 

> 

Place  of  obier/ation. 

Obierved. 

Minimum. 

Direc- 
tion. 

Force. 

Mar.  10. 

Mar.  1 1 . 
Mar. 12. 

Mar.  13. 

Mar.  14. 
Mar.  15. 

Mar.  16. 

Mar.  17. 

Inchts . 
30.10 
30.15 
29.73 
30.00 

29.62 

mm. 

764  53 
765.80 

7SS-I3 
761.99 

752-33 

Fahr. 
-39-1 
-43-0 
-44.0 

"C. 

-39-5 
—41.7 
—42.2 

Fahr. 

C. 

NE... 
NE... 

NE... 

S.. 

Light. 
Light. 
Light. 
Fresh* 

Fresh. 
Fresh. 
Fresh. 
Fresh, 
t  Brisk. 
Light. 

'Brisk'] 

t  Fresh. 

Light . 

Fair. 
Fair 
Fair. 
Fair . 

Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair . 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair. 
Fair . 
Fair. 
Fair. 

Deiwt  A . 
Depot  B. 

Do. 
Between  Beechf  y  and 

Wrangel  Hay. 
Off  Wrangel  Bay. 
Depot  B. 
Ofl^  Wrangel  Bay. 
Lincoln  Bay. 

Do. 
Wrangel  Bay. 

Do. 
Depot  B. 

Do. 

Do. 

—48.0 

—44.4 

NE... 
NE... 

NE... 

S 

S 

sw  .. 
Calm  . 
NE- 
SW  .. 
s 

-35  0 

-37-2 



-48.  of 

—44-4 

7  p.m. 

7  p.m. 

8  a.m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.m. 

3  P-m- 
7  a.m. 
Sp.m. 

29.48 
29 -53 
29-85 
30-10 
30.21 
30.21 
30.10 
29.99 

748.78 
750-05 
758-18 
764  53 
767-32 
767-32 
764-53 
761-73 

Warm  . 
-24.0 
-24.0 

Warm  . 
— 3«   • 
— 3«   « 

Warm  . 



1 

*  Heavy  wind  during  night. 


f  Since  9  a.m.,  nth. 


X  Onle  during  night. 


Appendix  No.  67. — Orders  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood.,  for  exploration  of  Greenland.,  iS8j. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  23,  1883. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  furnish  you  with  the  following  instructions  for  guidance  in  your  contemplated 
sledge  journey  in  North  Greenland: 

Except  from  unfavorable  and  unforeseen  delays  in  your  return,  you  will  be  at  Polaris  Boat  Camp 
(Newman  Bay,  Greenland],  not  later  than  May  31st.  Should  any  of  the  following  circumstances  arise,  you 
will  return  immediately  to  this  station: 

If  at  any  time  you  think  you  cannot  go  beyond  Lockwood  Island,  your  farthest  of  1882; 

If  the  polar  pack  shows  signs  of  disintegration ; 

If  you  are  personally  incapacitated  for  rapid  travel; 

If  any  member  of  your  party  is  badly  injured  or  shows  signs  of  serious  illness. 

In  case  o<  ""■  ♦emporary  disability  in  the  party  of  the  supporting  sledge,  the  disabled  man  will  be  left 
in  a  snow-house  sufficient  bedding,  food,  and  fuel  to  insure  comfort  and  safety;  a  second  man  should 

be  left  with  him  Ony  in  case  of  illness. 

You  are  recommended  to  watch  carefully  the  condition  of  the  ice  in  the  many  fiords  you  will  neces- 
sarily cross,  and  to  select  only  such  spots  for  caches  as  will  certainly  be  secure  and  accessible. 

Regarding  observations,  collections,  &c.,  you  are  referred  to  the  instructions  of  last  season. 

Full  record  and  maps  will  be  left  in  cairn  at  your  farthest.  Cape  Bryant,  and  Polaris  Boat  Camp. 

A  careful  watch  will  be  kept  from  this  point  on  the  condition  of  the  ice  in  Robeson  Channel,  and  a 
sledge  will  be  sent  to  Polaris  Boat  Camp  late  in  May.  The  small  boat  will  be  hauled  to  Cape  Murchison 
[during  your  absence],  so  as  to  be  readily  available  in  case  of  an  emergency,  and  such  other  precautions 
will  be  taken  as  you  may  suggest  before  your  departure,  or  in  letter  by  return  of  your  supporting  sledge. 

The  dangers  attendant  on  your  trip  are  obvious  and  serious.  I  shall  not  feel  free  from  anxiety  until 
your  return.  While  reposing  great  confidence  in  your  judgment  and  discretion,  I  cannot  refrain  from 
cautioning  you  against  more  risks  than  can  be  possibly  avoided.  You  are  the  only  line  and  executive 
officer  on  duty  with  this  expedition,  and  to  you  the  party  look  in  case  of  accident  or  disability  in  my  own 
person. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  return,  and  feeling  certain  of  great  success,  if  favorable  circumstances  are  commen- 
surate with  your  energy  and  perseverance, 

I  am,  respectfully  yours,  A.  W.  Greely, 

First  Lieut.,  Fifth  Cav.,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 

Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O. 


248 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Appendix  No.  68. — Sergrant  Kice's  orders  for  journey  to  Thank  Cod  Harbor, 

Fort  Conner,  Grinei.l  Land,  Af»il  5,  1883. 

Sergeant;  You  are  hereby  directed  to  leave  this  st.ition  about  April  10,  with  ten  enlisted  men  and  a 
dog  -ledge,  for  the  purpose  of  bringl^ig  to  this  point  the  ao-foot  [6"']  English  'ce-boat  now  at  Thank  God 
Harbor. 

In  connection  with  this  work  you  will  examine  with  dog-sledge,  April  6,  the  state  of  the  ice  off  the  coast 
between  Distant  Cape  and  Cape  Murchison,  in  order  to  select  the  best  route  toward  the  Greenland  shore. 

It  is  expected  that  the  dog-sledge  will  move  your  constant  weights,  and.the  energies  of  your  party  will 
be  devoted  on  the  outward  journey  to  making  suitable  roads  for  the  heavy  load  of  the  returning  sledge. 

The  boat  will  be  hauled  on  the  1 2-man  Knglish  sledge  to  be  found  with  it ;  lashings  for  boat  and  sledge 
will  be  taken  from  this  side.  In  addition  to  the  boat  the  three  tins  of  pemmican  will  be  brought  to  this 
point. 

Piovisions  for  ten  days  will  be  furnished  for  your  party. 

Dr.  O.  Pavy  will  accompany  the  party  to  look  after  the  health  of  the  men,  and  his  instructions  touching 
that  particular  province  will  be  carefully  and  promptly  followed. 

You  will  understand,  however,  that  you  are  fully  charged  with  the  command  of  the  enlisted  force,  and 
that  you  are  responsible  for  the  practical  details  and  successful  issue  of  the  journey. 

You  understand  how  very  important  it  may  be  to  the  interests  of  this  expedition  that  the  boat  be  safely 
and  successfully  transferred  to  this  coast. 

A  detailed  report,  with  copy  of  your  sledge  journal,  will  be  transmitted  me  within  five  days  of  your 
return. 

I  am,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutrnant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O,  and  Assistant,  Commanding  Expedition, 

Sergt.  George  W.  Rice, 

Sif^nal  Sendee,  U.  S.  Army, 

(Copy  respectfully  furnished  for  A.  A.  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  U.  S.  Army.) 


Appendix  No.  69. — Dr.  Pavf  s  orders  for  journey.,  as  surgeon.,  to  Thank  God  Harbor. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Lasd,  A/>n7  $,  1883. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  Jidvise  you  that  the  sledge  party  to  Thank  God  Harbor,  which  you  ure  to 
accompany,  will  leave  this  station  about  April  loth,  1883. 

The  enlisted  force  will  be  under  the  direct  command  of  Sergt.  Geo.  W.  Rice,  Signal  Service,  who  has 
been  ordered  to  carry  out  any  instructions  touching  the  health  of  any  of  the  party  you  may  communicate 
to  him.    A  copy  of  his  orders  is  herewith  enclosed. 

It  ap|)ears  proper  to  here  note  that  your  anomalous  position  [results  from  your]  particular  report.  You 
explicitly  stated  to  me  that  your  services  would  be  of  use  during  this  trip  fon]  medical  [grounds,  and] 
that  you  were  unfamiliar  with  the  work  to  be  carried  out,  and  that  you  would  unwillingly  assume  both  medical 
and  executive  responsiMlity, 

A  full  written  report  will  be  made  within  three  days  after  your  return. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cav.,  A,  S.  0.  and  Asst.,  Commanding, 

Actg.  Asst.  Surgeon  O.  Paw,  U,  S,  Army, 

(One  enclosure.) 

(The  partial  illegibility  of  the  letter-press  copy  renders  occasional  words  doubtful;  such  words  are 
bracketed.— A.  W.  G.) 


mm 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


249 


Appendix  No.  70, — Lieutenant  luhkivood^s  report  on  trip  to  North  Greenland. 

Fort  Concer,  Gi^innell  Lanh,  ApHt  14,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  render  the  following  report  on  the  operations  of  the  sledge  ex|)edilion  on  the 
north  coast  of  Greenland  March  27  to  April  12,  directed  by  you  with  the  view  of  continuing  the  work  of 
exploration  in  that  quarter. 

The  ecpiipment  consisted  of  two  dog-sledgi  s,  ten  dogs  each.  With  the  advance  sledge  Antoinette, 
were  myself,  Sergt.  D.  1,.  Hrainard,  and  Frederik  Christiansen  (Kskimo).  With  the  supporting  sledge  Aiiola, 
Sergt.  W.  S.  Jewell,  Pvt.  William  A.  Ellis,  and  Jens  Edwards  (Eskimo).  The  details  of  the  rations  and 
e(|uipment  are  appended. 

Afttrch  27  (Fort  Conger  to  Cape  lieechey), — At  8.30  a.  m.  the  two  sledges  (carrying  600  jjounds)  left 
the  station,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Cireely  and  pup-team  as  far  as  Watercourse  Bay.  Two  wolves  were 
seen  near  Distant  Cape  making  their  way  south.  Traveling  excellent.  Depot  A  reached  in  ly^  hours.  .\ 
ptarmigan  seen  some  time  before  reaching  there  and  several  fox  tracks  near  the  tent.  A  fox  had  entered 
the  tent  since  my  last  visit.  Took  the  two  seals  from  the  tent  and  continued  on  over  an  excellent  road, 
generally  speaking,  reaching  depot  A  at  1.40  p.  m.  Here  we  were  delayed  forty  minutes  in  adding  to  the 
sledge  loads  the  twO  tents  left  standing  since  last  trip,  sixty  pounds  of  hard  bread,  some  chocolate,  &c. 
Numerous  fox  tracks  around.  We  reached  Cape  at  3.55  p.  m.  and  went  into  camp.  Weather  overcast 
with  light  south  wind  threatening  snow.  Pretty  much  all  of  us  stiff  from  the  last  trip,  and  we  found  the 
Beechey  march  not  an  easy  one.     Supper  finished  by  5.30  p.  m. 

(Hours  en  route,  * ;  distance,  • .) 

March  28  i^Cape  Beechey  nearly  to  Cape  Sumner). — Sergeant  Brainard,  cook,  arose  at  5  a.  m.  Break- 
fast over  at  6.10.  Found  it  snowing  fast  and  the  Greenland  shore  invisible.  Took  on  the  English  meat, 
seventy-two  pounds,  left  here  ten  days  since  and  broke  camp  at  7.30  a  m.  Proceeding  along  the  land- 
foot  a  short  distance,  we  crossed  the  ice  wall  bordering  the  shore,  and  after  chopping  more  or  less  through 
upwards  of  one-half  mile  of  rubble-ice,  gained  a  level  floe  and  took  a  direct  course  for  Cape  Sumner,  inclining 
somewhat  to  the  right  as  we  proceeded.  The  route  lay  over  old-floe  ice  mostly  of  great  extent,  separated 
by  patches  of  rubble-ice  of  a  few  hundred  feet  or  yards  in  width  generally.  The  loads  being  light  the  dogs 
got  through  the  last  quite  readily  after  a  route  for  them  had  been  selected,  and  on  the  old  floes  kept  up  a 
trot  most  of  the  time.  At  4.05  p.  m.  we  were  about  three  miles  from  Cape  Sumner,  and  all  being  ([uite 
tired  I  determined  to  camp.  Private  Ellis  complained  of  a  pain  in  his  side,  and  he  and  Sergeant  Jewell, 
who  suffered  from  a  pain  in  his  hip,  rode  on  the  sledge  over  parts  of  the  route.    Supper  over  at  6. 1 5  p.  m. 

(Hours  en  route,  * ;  distance,  • .) 

March  29  {from  off  Cape  Sumner  into  Ne^vman  Bay^^Kx  5.23  a.  m.  I  got  up  to  cook  breakfast.  A  good 
deal  of  wind  during  the  night,  which  still  continued  to  some  extent.  At  6.20  breakfast  ready.  Weather 
overcast.  At  8.17  started  off,  after  a  delay  of  about  half  an  hour,  on  account  of  several  of  the  dogs  being 
led  off  by  two  of  the  bitches  in  heat.  The  last  four  dogs  were  caught  one  half  hour  after  starting.  At  10 
'\.  m.  reached  Cape  Sumner,  after  some  toilsome  work  in  rubble-ice,  in  consequence  of  inclining  in  towards 
shore  too  soon.  The  supporting  sledge  overturned  twice.  A  route  was  found  parallel  with  the  shore,  but 
some  distance  out,  and  the  Boat  Camp  reached  in  forty-five  minutes,  after  some  chopping  with  the  ax. 
After  ten  minutes'  delay  at  the  boat  we  continued  on,  and  at  11.55  ^'  •"•  stopped  on  Newman  Bay,  some 
miles  onward,  towards  the  Gap  Valley  overland  route,  the  one  selected.  Pitching  the  tents  and  unloading, 
I  started  back  to  the  Boat  Camp,  leaving  Ellis  behind  to  prepare  supper  for  the  i)arty.  At  the  bont  I  left 
Sergeant  Brainard  to  prepare  the  rations  to  be  taken  from  her,  and  continued  on  along  shore  to  the  cache 
made  15th  March  near  Cape  Sumner.  Found  the  snow  slopes  much  worse  since  my  last  visit.  Fox  tracks 
were  seen  near  by,  but  fortunately  the  cache  remained  untouched,  having  been  pretty  well  concealed  by  us 
with  ice  and  snow.  We  contimed  on  to  Cape  Sumner  with  the  contents  of  the  cache  and  returned  to  the 
Boat  Camp  via  the  floe.  Here,  taking  on  the  rations  prepared,  we  all  returned  to  the  tents  at  4.42  p.  m. 
The  ice  of  the  bay  up  to  this  point  consists  mostly  of  old  floes  (many  with  blue  tops),  separated  by  narrow 
belts  and  ridges  of  hummocks  and  rubble-ice.  The  last,  as  usual,  is  abundant  near  shore.  On  the  floes 
themselves  was  little  snow  and  the  traveling  was  excellent.  Some  time  after  supper  was  spent  in  taking 
meats  out  of  cans,  &c.,  and  issuing  to  the  supporting  sledge  sixty  rations,  which  would  enable  them  to  be 

*  Omission  in  original. — A.  W.  G. 


1 


250 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


:i      Ii 


absent  3o  clays  from  the  Boat  Camp  and  allow  the  advance  sledges  48  days'  absence,  with  144  rations 
remaining'.  The  small  seal,  weighing  twenty-eight  pounds,  was  fe<l  to  the  two  teams,  but  strange  to  say  the 
dogs  did  not  take  to  the  meat  very  naturally. 

Afanh  30  [from  camp  mar  Boat  Camp  to  Iirevt>ort  PeniiisHia). — At  5.07  a.  m.  Sergeant  Brainard  got 
up  to  cook  Ijreakfast ;  ready  in  an  hour.  Morning  clear  overhead,  but  cloudy  around  the  horizon.  A  light 
snow  falling;  Jewell  and  Kllis  feeling  stiff.  At  8  a.  m.  started  /•//  route  with  everything,  about  1,100  pounds 
to  e:'<:h  team.  We  got  through  two  or  three  patches  of  rubble-ice  with  little  difhculty,  and  then  came  to 
the  smooth,  new  ice  oi  the  bay,  covered  with  only  a  little  snow.  At  9.50  reached  mouth  of  gorge,  and  each 
sledge,  throwing  off  half  its  load,  i)repared  for  the  toilsome  journey  through  this  narrow  cafion.  This  gorge 
has  steep  snow-drifts,  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet  [^i  to  15'"]  high,  up  three  of  which  roads  were  nia<le  with  ax 
and  shovel,  and  the  whole  force  concentrated  on  one  sledge  at  a  time,  pulling  and  pushing  inch  by  inch. 
A  road-bed  was  cut  around  the  flank  of  the  fourth,  it  being  notliing  but  a  deep  pit,  probably  20  feet  [6"') 
deej).  The  height  of  the  others  was  about  the  same,  except  the  one  at  the  end  of  the  gorge,  which  was 
two  or  three  times  that,  but  the  incline  not  so  steep.  The  roof  of  an  ice  grotto  was  cut  through.  A  large 
grotto,  occupying  the  whole  bed  of  the  stream,  was  found  beyond  it.  At  2.25  p.  m.  the  tents  were  pitched 
on  the  divide,  out  of  the  gorge,  and  the  empty  sledges  started  back  with  every  one,  except  Sergeant  Jewell, 
to  bring  up  the  remainder  of  the  loads,  'i'he  mouth  of  the  gorge  was  reached  in  just  twenty-five  minutes, 
and  at  4.40  p.  m.  we  were  at  the  tents  once  more.  The  locality  not  looking  in  all  respects  familiar,  I  walked 
to  an  elevated  ridge,  some  three  miles  to  the  north,  after  supper.  From  here  I  could  see  the  north  shore 
and  set  at  rest  all  doubts.  The  barometer  gave  me  an  elev.ition  of  500  feet  liss""]  above  camp;  the  latter 
is  about  the  same  above  the  sea-level.     Got  to  bed  at  9  p.  m. 

Manh  31  {from  divide  to  mouth  of  Gap  I'alliy), — Called  Sergeant  Jewell  at  4.20  a.  m.,  and  got  up 
myself  an  hour  later  to  cook  breakfast.  I  directed  Sergeant  Jewell  to  leave  his  tent  standing  and  send 
Jens  with  empty  sledge  back  to  last  camp  for  a  can  of  lime-juice  pemmican  he  had  accidentally  left  behind. 
Morning  fine,  clear,  and  calm.  At  7.35  a.  m.  advance  sledge  started  down  the  valley,  carrying  its  entire 
load.  Traveling  very  good  on  hard  snow.  After  ))roceeding  i  y^  hours  we  were  obliged  to  double  up 
through  the  narrow  gorge  into  which  the  valley  had  here  diminished.  Soon  after  we  entered  the  head  of 
the  witle  da])  Valley,  proper,  and  were  able  to  haul  everything  at  once  to  the  sea-coast.  Reaching  the  latter 
at  I  o'clock  we  turned  east  and  proceeded  one-fourth  of  a  n.ile,  when  we  were  stopped  by  the  close  approach 
of  the  ice  wall  lining  the  sea-coast,  to  the  foot  of  the  cliff  forming  the  east  cape  of  Gap  Valley.  Here,  for 
the  eighth  of  a  mile,  a  great  deal  of  labor  was  expended  In  cutting  through.  By  3  p.  m.  we  had  got  the 
sledge  and  half-load  through  this  place,  and  Christiansen  and  I  continued  on  with  it  upwards  of  two  miles, 
finding  the  traveling  very  good.  Got  back  at  4  o'clock,  and  stoppetl  for  the  night.  The  supporting  sledge 
arrived  half  an  hour  later.  Sergeant  Jewell  and  YX\\%  suffering  a  good  deal  from  pains  in  the  groin  and 
side,  respectively.     Noticed  a  good  deal  of  new  ice  along  shore. 

April  I  {Gap  I  alky  to  Black  Horn  Cliffs). — At  5.20  a.  m.  Sergeant  Brainard  got  up  to  cook  break- 
fast. Both  sledges  off  by  8.08.  As  the  advance  sledge  had  half  its  load  already  through  the  cutting,  we 
parted  company  again  with  the  supporting  sledge.  Reaching  the  half-load  advanced  the  day  before,  we 
continued  on  with  everything,  but  were  delayeil  fifty  minutes,  just  before  reaching  Repulse  Harbor,  by 
having  to  relash  the  sledge.  Just  north  of  the  Knglish  cairn  at  the  latter  place,  we  found  the  location  of 
the  English  depot  of  rations,  and  in  it  a  sextant,  flag,  cooking  lamp,  old  articles  of  clothing,  &c.  After  a 
short  delay  the  advance  sledge  started  on.  The  supporting  sledge  had,  in  mean  time,  come  up,  but  delayed 
to  relash.  It  was  necessary  to  follow  round  the  shore  of  the  harbor.  The  traveling  from  here  on  to  the 
Black  Horn  Cliffs  was  excellent.  The  snow  of  the  snow  slopes  about  Drift  Point  was  hard,  and  slopes 
easy.  Along  this  coast  the  wall  of  rubble-ice  and  floe-bergs  is  not  generally  so  high  and  imposing  as  last 
year.  Outside  a  great  deal  of  smooth,  young  ice  was  seen  and  many  leads,  apparently  lately  frozen  over, 
stretched  to  the  north  and  northwest.  One  running  northeast  was  in  particular  noticed,  which  seemed 
several  miles  long.  Fox  tracks  seen  in  several  places  along  the  shore.  From  the  elevation  of  Drift  Point 
was  seen  a  continuous  belt  of  young  ice,  a  hundred  yards  [91™]  and  more  wide,  between  the  Polar  pack 
and  the  shore.  Many  water-holes  and  small  cracks  were  seen  in  it.  Thick  water  clouds  were  seen  to  the 
north.  The  separate  floes  of  the  Polar  pack  were  often  fringed  with  walls  of  "pushed-up"  rubble-ice  whose 
shining  green  sides  and  edges  indicdted  recent  pressure.  At  4.45  p.  m.  we  camped  just  beyond  mouth  of 
gorge,  the  first  to  the  east  of  Drift  Point,  the  steep  slope  at  the  foot  of  the  bluflfs  which  here  mark  the  west 
end  of  the  cliffs,  making  further  progress  by  land  impracticable.  This  is  the  usual  place  for  taking  to  the 
floe.    The  supporting  sledge  came  up  three-quarters  of  an  hour  later. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


251 


April  2  {at  Black  Horn  Cliffs). — Arose  at  4.50  a.  m.  and  lighted  lamp.  Breakfast  in  an  hour.  We  had 
but  little  sleep  on  account  of  .he  cold.  A  little  before  7  o'clock  I  started  with  .Sergeant  Urain.iid  and  Chrisi- 
tiansen,  without  sledge,  to  find  some  way  of  j^etting  on  the  outside  floe  or  of  following  along  the  foot  of  the 
cliffs.  First  we  examined  the  young  ice  bordering  shore  and  found  that  a  stone  woulil  go  through  almost 
anywhere  and  that  the  space  of  open  water  along  shore  was  continuous.  We  then  followed  along  a  steep 
incline  covered  with  stones,  and  finally  were  obliged  to  climb  along  the  top  of  the  ice  wall.  We  got  about 
a  mile  from  camp,  when  we  encountered  a  very  steep  drift  sloping  from  a  break  in  the  cli'i^  overhead  to  the 
water  at  the  foot.  Beyond  this  the  route  seemed  even  worse.  We  here  made  an  attempt  to  as<  end  the 
cliffs,  but  after  gaining  a  considerable  elevation  by  cutting  steps  w;  the  snow  I  gave  it  up,  principally  on 
account  of  the  certainty  of  falling  into  the  water  should  one  of  us  slip.  A  route  along  the  foot  of  these  cliffs, 
if  possible  at  all,  was  certainly  impracticable  under  the  circumstances,  and  in  any  event  would  have  involved 
many  days'  hard  work  and  great  risks.  Sergeant  Brainard  pronounced  it  entirely  im|)ra<ti(:able.  It  was 
impossible  to  get  round  the  cliffs  as  done  last  year.  To  follow  along  their  base  seemed  almost  eiiually  so. 
After  returning  to  camp  and  drinking  some  tea,  I  started  out  again  with  Sergeant  Brainard  to  dibcover,  if 
possible,  an  overland  route.  During  my  absence  Sergeant  Jewell  was  tlirccted  to  make  tidal  observations 
by  means  of  the  rod  brought  along  for  the  purpose.  The  gorge  at  whose  mouth  we  were  encamped  pre- 
sented the  only  inlet  into  the  interior.  This  we  followed  up,  meeting  a  high  steep  snow-drift  and  a  variety 
of  smaller  drifts,  rocks,  &c.,  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  when  we  came  to  a  branch  stream,  a  tleep,  narrow 
ravine  from  the  southeast.  Following  up  this  three-quarters  of  an  hour  we  came  to  what  seemed  its  end, 
at  a  glacier-like  formation  of  ice,  over  100  feet  [jo""]  high,  covered  with  snow,  and  very  steep.  The  green 
edges  of  the  ice  cropped  out  in  several  places.  The  only  means  of  ascending  it  would  be  by  cutting  steps 
for  the  purpose.  We  climbed  up  the  rocky  side  to  the  north  and  found  ourselves  on  a  stony  plateau. 
Proceeding  about  lyi  miles  east  we  gained  an  elevated  ridge  1,300  feet  [396'"!  high  by  barometer.  The 
main  stream-bed  we  had  ascended  continued  south  till  lost  in  a  chain  of  mountains  running  cast  and  west 
probably  a  half  dozen  miles  from  the  sea.  The  branch  we  had  ascended  apparentiv  ended  in  the  little 
glacier  referred  to.  To  the  east  of  the  last  was  an  undulating  plain  sloping  gently  north  and  south,  and 
forming  a  surface  drain  which  gradually  narrowed  to  a  gorge,  and  after  continuing  e.ist  some  miles  then 
turned  north,  and  apparently  met  the  sea  at  "  Rest  Gorge  "  east  of  the  cliffs,  and  where  !  camped  April  25, 
1882.  A  huge  formation  of  ice  or  snow  could  be  seen  at  the  bend  of  this  stream,  to  the  north.  From  the 
hill  the  appearance  of  the  ice  was  much  the  same  as  observed  from  shore,  only  more  extensive — a  series  of 
floes  separated  by  what  seemed  new  ice  and  fringed  with  "  pushed-up  "  rubble-ice.  One  clearly  defined 
lead  ran  northwest  towards  Cape  Joseph  Henry.  Misty  clouds  all  along  the  northern  horizon.  Reached 
camp  by  a  direct  course  and  found  every  one  walking  vigorously  vn  and  down  to  keep  warm.  Air  clear 
and  calm  but  very  cold.  Supper  at  6;  turned  in  at  7  p.  m.  Sergeant  Jewell  continued  his  tidal  observa- 
tions till  midnight  and  declined  assistance — an  extremely  severe  oril^al  under  the  circumstances. 

April  ^  {at  Black  Horn  Cliffs)., — At  5.10  a.  m.  called  Sergeant  Brainard,  cook.  Breakfast  at  6  a.  m. 
Morning  overcast,  light  wind.  At  7.50  a.  m.  started  up  the  gorge  with' Sergeant  Brainard,  Christiansen,  and 
Ellis.  On  reaching  branch  ravine,  the  only  one  this  stream  seemed  to  possess,  I  sent  Sergeant  Brainard 
forward  with  Christiansen  to  examine  the  glacier  more  closely,  and  to  examine  the  country  beyond,  could  any 
way  be  found  of  surmounting  the  glacier  in  any  reasonable  time.  With  Private  Ellis  I  continued  south, 
hoping  to  find  some  other  opening  towards  the  east.  My  course  led  me  directly  south  till,  not  far  from  the 
mountains,  I  gained  an  elevation  on  the  west  side  which  commanded  the  ravine  as  far  south  as  the  moun- 
tains. Not  an  inlet  of  any  kind  presented  itself  from  the  east.  The  stream  broke  through  the  mountains 
from  a  southwest  direction,  and  its  bed  was  full  of  many  large  snow  drifts.  En  route  back  I  met  Sergeant 
Brainard  who  reported  that  he  had  ascended  the  glacier  by  cutting  one  hundred  and  fifty-two  steps  in  the  ice, 
that  beyond  it  the  branch  ravine  still  continued,  but  a  wall  of  ice  some  12  feet  [3.6™]  high  would  have  to  be 
surmounted,  and  that  on  getting  out  on  the  divi'de  he  found  a  stone  covered  plain  some  quarter  of  a  mile 
across.  He  regarded  advance  in  that  direction  so  impracticable  that  he  went  no  farther.  He  thought  it 
would  take  two  weeks  at  least  to  get  everything  round  to  Rest  Gorge  (if  it  were  possible  at  all);  Christiansen 
fixed  on  ten  days.  In  this  ravine  several  ptarmigan  and  fox  tracks  were  seen.  The  bed  of  the  stream  seemed 
to  be  a  mass  of  ice,  as  shown  by  a  grotto  we  met  and  seeing  ice  in  other  places.  Returning  to  camp,  all 
difficulties  of  advancing  seemed  to  be  set  at  rest  by  finding  the  young  ice  getting  thicker  rapidly  and  prom- 
ising to  bear  in  the  morning.     I  went  out  a  hundred  yards  [gi"]  from  shore  and  it  easily  bore  my  weight. 


'f^ 


252 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAT  EXPEDITION. 


II 


ii 


111 


though  bending  in  places  and  readily  giving  way  to  a  single  blow  of  the  ax.  Later  in  the  day  Christiansen 
])ronounced  it  all  right,  and  an  approach  was  cut  thiough  the  ice  wall  below  camp  for  the  sledges  in  the 
morning.  Weather  very  cold;  difficult  to  keep  warm.  Supper  at  6.30  p.m.  and  in  bags  by  8.  Sergeant 
Jewell  up  for  several  hours  later,  making  tidal  observations. 

/1/ri/  4. — At  6.50  a.  ni.  I  lighted  lamp  for  breakfast.  At  9.45  a.  m.  I  took  all  five  sacks  pemmican  on 
advance  sledge,  leaving  the  supporting  party  packing  up.  Feeling  uncertain  as  to  thickness  of  the  ice,  the 
tent,  &c,,  was  left  behind.  The  crack  near  shore  was  slightly  wider,  but  by  throwing  in  masses  of  ice  the 
sledge  and  load  went  readily  over  to  the  new  ice.  We  got  several  hundred  yards  out  from  shore,  and 
towards  the  east,  when  Christiansen  saying  the  ice  was  "  all  right,"  I  directed  Sergeant  Brainard  to  proceed 
ahead  with  the  ax ;  while  the  pemmican  having  been  thrown  oH",  the  empty  .sledge  returned  to  camp  for  the 
rest  of  the  load.  When  almost  ashore  two  or  three  of  the  dogs  went  in  the  water,  and  I  suddenly  perceived 
that  the  ice  was  moving  off  short .  Leaving  Christiansen  to  find  a  route  ashore,  1  started  after  Sergeant  Brain- 
ard, but  was  speedily  overtaken  by  the  dog-team,  which  went  at  once  on  a  galloi>  after  Sergeant  Brainard. 
About  100  yards  [91'"]  from  our  crossing  a  small  cake  of  ice  was  jammed  by  the  moving  ice  close  against  a 
little  promontory  of  rubble,  the  only  place  where  there  was  not  several  yards  of  open  water  already.  Here 
I  climbed  out  and  up,  and  brought  the  dog-team  wlien  it  arrived  a  few  minutes  later.  The  ice  moved  up 
the  coast  (east)  as  well  as  out,  and  holding  the  little  cake  in  position,  the  sledge,  dogs,  one  by  one,  and 
j)emmican  were  saved.  The  last  sack  of  the  latter  went  in  the  water,  but  was  afterwards  fished  out  as  it 
floated.  Soon  there  was  a  belt  of  open  water  100  yards  [91"']  ami  more  in  jjlaces  along  shore,  and  in  two 
hours  the  ice  had  moved  200  yards  [iS2"'J  to  the  east.  A  hummock  which  I  had  sighted  April  1,  a  mile  or 
more  distant,  had  changed  its  angle  considerably  to  the  east.  A  seal  made  his  appearance  in  the  open 
water.  Seeing  little  chance  of  getting  overland,  the  loaded  sledges  were  turned  westward,  and  at  12.30  we 
started  back,  but  at  Drift  Point  met  so  severe  a  wind  from  the  south,  with  drifting  snow,  that  the  tents  were 
again  pitched  just  beyond.     Several  slight  frost-bites  occurred. 

A/>ri/  J. — In  tents  storm-bound  all  day, 

April  6  (from  )icar  Drift  Pohit  to  Gap  Valhy). — During  the  storms  I  determined  to  attempt  the  over- 
Kind  route,  discouraging  as  it  seemed,  t.iking  the  sledge  to  pieces  and  carrying  it  and  the  load  up  the  glacier 
and  over  the  stony  ground  and  other  obstacles  bc/ond  by  hand.  The  storm  continued  during  the  forenoon, 
but  then  tlying  away  we  packed  up,  after  forty-^  hours  in  the  .sleeping-bags,  and  took  up  the  march  to  the 
east  again.  Shortly  after  this,  seeing  a  wide  k';ul  of  open  water  to  the  west,  I  halted  to  survey  the  .scene. 
The  pack  was  .separated  from  the  shore  up  and  down,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  r^ach,  by  the  belt  of  ojjen  water, 
perfectly  clear  of  ice,  which,  from  200  yards  [182"']  to  half-mile  [804'"]  wide,  extended  to  the  west  in  the 
direction  of  1  .incoln  Bay,  and  expanded  into  a  witle  sea  from  three  to  five  miles  wide.  The  ice  to  the  south 
seemed  to  make  a  straight  boundary  on  that  side,  but  on  the  north  to  curve  round  in  a  great  circle  as  it 
neared  the  CJrinnell  shore  and  then  to  stretch  northward.  I  looked  at  it  attentively  through  the  fielil  glasses, 
and  it  had  every  appearance  of  extending  all  the  way  across  the  straits.  The  [main  |  pack  was  moving  rapidly 
to  the  east,  as  was  plainly  apparent  on  aligning  any  part  of  it  with  an  object  on  shore.  To  the  north  several 
large  leads  of  water  were  seen  in  the  distance  and  smaller  leads  nearer  to  us.  Dark,  misty  clouds  hung 
about  the  northern  horizon.  Under  the  clause  of  my  orders  regarding  "signs  of  disintegration  in  the  Polar 
pack,"  1  did  not  feel  authorized  in  making  any  further  attempts  to  proceed,  and  so  reluctantly  turned  about 
to  return  to  this  station.  In  that  vicinity  we  noticed  and  examined  a  large  floe-berg,  with  very  clearly  defined 
strata.  A  dozen  parallel  lines  were  counted,  ranging  from  the  top  half-way  down.  The  berg  was  about  40 
feet  [n'"]  high,  and  about  the  same  in  its  other  dimensions.  On  reaching  Repulse  Harbor  the  sextant,  flag, 
&c.  [cached  in  1876  by  Lieutenant  Beaumont,  R.  N.],  were  put  on  the  sledge;  a  record  deposited  in  the 
cairn.  The  open  water  here  was  wider,  leads  to  the  north  still  (juile  plain,  water  clouds,  &:c.  The  open 
water  crossing  the  straits  seemol  to  take  more  the  direction  of  Black  Cape.  Reached  mouth  of  Clap 
Valley  at  6  o'clock  and  camped,  Ellis  complaining  of  pain  in  his  side  again. 

April  7  [in  camp  at  mouth  of  Gap  ralliy). — Tiie  rod  was  set  in  a  low  place  in  the  ice  wall  opposite 
camp  and  the  day  devoted  to  tidal  observations,  some  hours'  work  being  first  performed  to  clear  a  place. 
The  rod  both  here  and  elsewhere  was  thus  fixed :  At  low  water  the  ice  was  cut  away  from  the  crack  as  low 
down  as  could  be  reached  readily.  A  sledge  slat  was  then  inserted  horizontally  in  the  ice  wall,  and  at  such 
a  heiglit  that  full  ti<le  nearly  touched  the  slat.  To  the  end  of  the  slat  thus  placed  the  rod  was  lashed  some 
half-dozen  feet  [about  2"']  above  its  lower  end  (/.  <•.  about  midway).  It  was  held  thus  perfectly  fast.  The 
top  of  tiie  rod  was  aligned  with  two  objects  on  the  ice  wall,  either  on  the  plank  or  in  rear,  to  give  warning 


i4l 


M   -0 


Chart  showing 

Route  of  Si.kikje  Exi-edition, 

Mar.  27  TO  Ai'R.  12,  1883. 


Scali-  uf  Mik's 

■ ' 

0  t  10  13  to 


M"_a) 


m. 


im^MijiiMiW^a 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


253 


of  any  movement  in  the  ice  wall  itself.  This  was  a  hardly  necessary  precaution.  At  8.25  a.m.  I  sent 
Sergeant  Brainard  and  Ellis  with  the  two  sledges  to  advance  the  heaviest  halves  of  our  loads  as  far  as  possi- 
ble. The  sergeant  reached  Newman  Hay  in  four  hours  and  returned  in  two  (/.  c.  at  2.25  j).  m.).  A  cold 
wind  with  drifting  snow  sprang  up  in  the  evening  niakiiig  Sergeant  Jewell's  observations  most  trying,  especially 
as  he  could  hardly  walk  on  account  of  the  pain  in  his  groin. 

April  8  {iiorth  end  of  Gap  Valley  to  Cape  Siininer), — Got  up  at  6  a.  m.  and  called  other  tent  at  7  o'clock. 
An  ice  hummock  sighted  yesterday  some  distance  from  shore  has  since  moved  to  the  right  several  degrees. 
A  large,  dark  mass  of  vapor  observed  up  the  coast  to  the  east,  looming  up  like  a  huge  cliff.  At  9.43  a.  m.  got 
off.  Found  it  necessary  to  carry  Ellis  on  sledge  part  of  the  way.  Sergeant  Jewell  very  lame.  Reached  top 
of  divide  in  2^^  hours,  and  Newman  Bay  at  i.io  p.  m.  Here  the  loads  advanced  the  day  before  were 
taken  on.  At  5.30  p.  m.  went  into  camp  off  Cape  Sumner.  Some  time  spent  before  and  after  supper  in 
cutting  away  the  ice  for  tide  rod.     Got  to  bed  at  1 1  p.  m. 

April  g  (in  camp  at  Cape  Sumner), — Some  more  cutting  early  this  morning  finished  the  tide  hole,  after 
which,  leaving  Sergeant  Jewell  in  camp,  the  rest  of  us  proceeded  to  the  boat  camp  and  took  from  the  boat 
pretty  much  everything  except  the  sails,  oars,  &c.,  and  turning  the  boat  bottom  up  before  leaving  deposited 
a  record  in  the  cairn.  Sergeant  Jewell  saw  a  white  owl  fly  overhead  towards  the  east.  The  tidal  observa- 
tions continued  during  the  day. 

April  10  [Cape  Sumner  to  camp  on  straits). — At  5.50  a.  m.  got  up  and  lighted  lamp.  Did  not  call  the 
other  tent  till  after  6  o'clock.,  Sergeant  Jewell  having  been  up  till  after  midnight  of  the  9th  taking  observa- 
tions. At  9.35  a.  m.  got  off;  Sergeant  Brainard  ahead  with  the  ax;  both  sledges  very  heavily  loaded.  On 
this  account  we  worked  through  the  rubble-ice,  only  with  great  labor.  We  were  fortunate  in  being  able  to 
follow  trail  made  coming  out.     Encountered  a  very  cold  south  wind.     Camped  at  3.35  p.  m. 

April  II  [camp  on  straits  to  depot  B). — Got  little  sleep,  and  Seigeant  Brainard  arose  and  lighted  lamp 
at  3.50  a.  m.  Off  at  7.20,  following  old  roads.  The  dogs  did  very  well  to-day  in  the  rubble-ice,  and  we 
traveled,  as  yesterday,  without  "doubling  up."  At  12.20  p.  m.  advance  sledge  was  inside  the  ice  wall  just 
above  Cape  Beechey.  Snow  on  this  coast  much  increased  in  depth  and.  quite  soft.  Beautiful  circle  around 
the  sun  and  mock-suns  observed.  At  2.50  p.  m,  reached  depot  B,  and  pitched  tents.  Sergeant  Jewell  and 
Ellis  almost  worn  out. 

April  12  (depot  B  to  Fort  Conger). — At  5  a.  m.  I  got  up  to  cook  breakfast,  whicii  was  ready  in  an  hour; 
off  at  8  a.  m.;  at  11.40  a.  m.  reached  depot  A  and  stopped  twenty-five  minutes;  numerous  fox  .and  hare 
tracks  about;  traveling  by  no  means  good — in  soft  snow;  reached  Fort  Conger  at  3.42  p.  m. 

I  would  respectfully  state  in  conclusion,  that  the  conduct  of  those  under  my  orders  was  all  that  I  could 
wish.  Sergeant  Jewell  and  Private  Ellis,  though  suffering  daily  from  strains  incurred  during  former  trips  or 
during  this  trip,  bore  up  manfully.  Sergeant  Jewell's  zeal  in  tid.al  observations  in  low  temperatures  and  cold 
winds  call  for  my  hearty  commendation.  Sergeant  Brainard  showed  himself  as  energetic,  zealous,  and  intel- 
ligent as  ever,  and  was  my  main  stay.  The  two  Eskimo  I  would  also  call  to  your  favorable  otice ;  Chris- 
tiansen in  particular  showed  himself  willing,  capable,  and  energetic. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

^   B.  Lock  WOOD, 
Second  Lieutenant,  Twenij  third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O. 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Asst.,  Commanding. 


I  if 


254  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

APPENDIX.  -    ,. 

Distance  traveled. 

Geographical  miles. 

Fort  Conger  to  Cape  Beechey 23 

Cape  Beechey  to  Boat  Camp 25 

Boat  Camp  to  north  side  Newman  Bay 7 

North  side  Newman  Bay  to  Repulse  Harbor IS 

Repulse  Harbor  to  Black  Horn  Cliffs 9 

79 

On  return 79 

Total  (doubling  up  and  foot  journeys  rtot  included) 158 

Constant  weights,  advance  sledge. 

Pounds. 

A  tent,  poles  and  pins,  36  pounds ;  rubber  blanket,  9^  pounds ;  lamp,  5  pounds ,.  50^4^ 

Buffalosleeping-bag  (two-man),  23ji  pounds;  dogskin  sleeping-bag  (one-man),  12^^  jwunds.  35^ 
•    Ax,  6^  pounds;  spade,  5)^  pounds;  sextant,  3  pounds ;  artificial  horizon  and  mercury, 6^ 

pounds ~. 2'^ 

Telescope,  3^  pounds;  field  glasses,  3  pounds;  compass,  i  pound T)^ 

Rific,  1 1  iK>unds ;   ammunition,  4  |x>unds ;  two  pairs  snow-shoes,  6  pounds ;  tide  rod,  4^ 

pounds 25)^ 

Extra  lashings,  4^  ixjunds ;  medicine,  5  ix>unds 9^4 

Three  clothing  bags,  36  pounds;  cook's  bag,  16^  pounds;  store-bag,  18^  pounds 70^^ 

220>^ 

Weight  of  sleiige 109 

Constant  uieights,  supporting  sledge. 

Pounds. 

A  tent,  ]X)les  and  pins,  36  ]X>unds;  buffalo  sleeping-bag  (three-man),  38^  pounds 74/4 

Rubber  blanket,  6^  ])Ounds  ;  one  lamp,  6^  [Kmnds;  one  small  lamp,  \^  ]X>unds 14^^ 

Ax,  spade,  snow-shoes  (one  pair),  13^  pounds;  shot-gun  .md  ammunition,  12  ]X)unds. ^S/i 

Extra  lashings,  4^  [rounds;  three  clothing-bagi.,  36  pounds;  cook's  bag,  11^  pounds 51^^ 

I6SJ< 

(Medicine,  5  pounds) ;  sledge _ ._ 109 

274^ 
Many  of  these  weiglits  would  have  b  en  reduced  by  leaving  en  cache  as  we  proceeded. 

Two  seal-skin  temiaks  not  included  in  above. 

Dog-food. 

Pounds. 

Salt  pork  (taken  from  station) 85 

Two  seals  (taken  from  depot  A) 78 

Dried  meat,  .seal,  and  musk-ox,  from  cache  near  Cape  Sumner 225 

Pemmican,  five  sacks,  from  cache  near  Cape  Sumner 579^ 

Lime-juice  pemmican,  from  whaleboat  at  Boat  Camp . 40 

Pemmican,  English,  and  lime-juice,  to  have  been  taken  from  Cape  Bryant 100 

1,  107  >i 
Consumed  all  except  that  at  Cajie  Bryant  and  the  five  sacks  brought  back  to  station.    Amount  consumed,  aoj 
|x)unds. 

Taken  out  of  whale-boat  at  Boat  Camp,  March  29. 

Pounds. 

Corned  beef,  one  can _ 2 

Beans,  one  can 2^ 

Potatoes  (English) 14 

Sugiir  (all) _ _. 14 

Alcohol . 63 

Butter,  eight  cans 24 

Bread,  one  bag ..... .... 60 

Six  balls  wicking,  and  one  English  snow-knife.    Total..... .. . '79^ 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


255 


One  ration  equals — 

Ounces, 

Musk-ox  meat,  sausage,  English  beef,  corned  beef,  bacon — 22 

Butter - ■ a 

Hard  bread lo 

Potatoes,  beans -    4 

Tea  (or  chocolate,  two  ounces) o^ 

Sugar — 2 

Milk -.. 'oyi 

Salt -. - oy^ 

Pepper t^s 

Alcohol . 6 

Total  ration 47U 


Appendix  No.  71. — Sergeant  JewcW  s  report  on  tidal  and  meteorological  observations  made  on 

trip  to  North  Greenland. 

Fort   '  viiER,  Grinnell  Land,  April  15,  1883. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor,  herewith,  to  transmit  report  of  itaal  observations  taken  by  me  at  the  following- 
named  points  on  the  Greenland  coast,  viz:  Near  the  southwest  extremity  of  the  Black  Horn  Cliffs,  April  2 
and  3;  about  5  miles  southwest  of  Repulse  Harbor  (at  the  northern  entrance  of  Gap  Valley),  April  7,  and 
at  Cape  Sumner,  April  9  arid  10,  and  meteorological  observations  made  during  the  journey. 

The  series  taken  at  the  first-mentioned  station,  on  the  2d,  although  showing  the  flow,  are  not  definite 
as  to  the  high  and  low  tide,  but,  as  the  range  disagrees  with  that  afterwards  observed,  I  am  led  to  the  con- 
clusion that  there  was  a  movement  in  the  gauge  that  influenced  the  readings.  Upon  taking  the  8  p.  m. 
observation  of  that  date  I  found  the  gauge  had  been  forced  up  by  a  piece  of  ice  from  below.  I  then 
enlarged  the  tide  hole,  cleared  il  from  ice,  and  froze  the  support  to  the  gauge  solidly  into  the  permanent  ice 
wall.    The  readings  thereafter  were  perfectly  satisfactory. 

The  readings  at  Gap  Valley  were  without  a  flaw,  the  gauge  being  frozen  into  the  ice  wall  as  at  first 
station,  and  its  position  was  carefully  verified  at  short, intervals  by  means  of  two  points  bearing  on  it,  and  no 
movement  detected. 

The  exposure  at  Cape  Sumner  was  as  good  as  could  possibly  be  obtained,  the  gauge  being  at  the 
extreme  point  of  the  cape,  secured  as  at  the  former  stations,  and  its  position  verified  as  explained  above. 
The  readings  were  carefully  made  and  the  results  all  that  could  be  desired.  I  would  state  that  the  greatest 
care  was  taken  with  these  observations,  especially  for  at  least  an  hour  before  the  tiun  of  the  tide,  at  which 
times  the  gauge  was  under  constant  surveillance,  and  all  changes  noted. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

W.  S.  Jewell, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S,  A 

Lieut.  J.  B.  LocKwooD, 

Commanding  North  Greenland  Sledge  Farty. 


256 


THE  LADY  FRANKI  IN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Tidal  observations,  southwest  extremity  of  Black  Horn  Cliffs. 
[Date,  April  2,  1883.] 


!li 


Wasliint^on   mean 

Washiiigt 

on   mean 

1 
1 

Washington   mean 

! 

Wasliingt 

in   mean 

time. 

Gauge. 

1               time. 

I 
(jauge. 

time. 

Gauge. 

time. 

Gauge. 

Observed. 

(^orrecteU. 

Iiithcs. 

Observed. 

Corrected. 

Observed, 
r.  M. 

Corrected. 

Observed. 

Corrected. 

A.  M. 

A.  M. 

1 

r.  M. 

I'.  M. 

Inches. 

1'.  M. 

Inches, 

P.M. 

1'.  M. 

Inches. 

11.5s 

I'SS 

28.7 

1.00 

1. 00 

27-S 

4-3° 

430 

27.1 

730 

7-3° 

28.3 

M. 

M. 

1.30 

1.30 

27.2 

445 

44S 

27.2 

8.00 

8.00 

27.8 

12.00 

12.00 

28.6 

2.00 

2.00 

27.1 

5.00 

5.00 

27.2 

8.26 

8.26 

26.8 

1'.  M. 

1'.  M. 

'      2.30 

2.30 

27.1 

51S 

5  'S 

i7.2 

8.45 

8.45 

25.8 

12.02 

12.02 

28.5 

3.00 

3.00 

273 

5-30 

530 

27-3 

9.00 

9.00 

25.6 

12.06 

12.06 

28.3 

'       3-3° 

3-30 

27.0 

6.00 

6.00 

27.8 

9.15 

9>S 

25.0 

12.  10 

12.  10 

28.0 

4.00 

4.00 

26.8 

6.30 

6.30 

28.1 

9-3° 

9-3° 

24.4 

•2.4S 

«245 

27-7 

!    '^'^ 

4«S 

27.0 

7.00 

7.00 

28.4 

[Date,  April  3,  1883.] 


■  1* 


A.  M. 

A.  M. 

Inches. 

A.  M. 

A.  M. 

Inches. 

P.M. 

p.  M. 

Inches. 

P.  M. 

p.  M. 

Inches. 

7.10 

7.  10 

31-8 

925 

9- 25 

32.2 

1.30 

1.30 

239 

327 

327 

22.9 

7.20 

20 

32.0 

9-45 

9-45 

3'-8 

1.45 

1-45 

235 

3-37 

3-37 

22.9 

7-25 

2S 

32.5 

10.00 

10.00 

l^l 

2.00 

2.00 

23.2 

4.00 

4.00 

23.0 

7.3« 

38 

32.7 

10.15 

10.15 

Tfil 

2.10 

2.10 

23.0 

4.22 

4.22 

233 

7-47 

47 

32 -9 

10.30 

10.30 

30.2 

213 

2.13 

23.0 

4.40 

4.40 

24.0 

753 

53 

330 

10. 45 

10.45 

29.7 

2.17 

2.17 

22.8 

5.00 

5.00 

24.6 

8.00 

8 

tH3 

33  I 

ii  .00 

11.00 

29.5 

2.20 

2.20 

22.8 

5 -.30 

530 

255 

8.05 

8 

05 

li  ^ 

11.15 

11.15 

29.0 

2.25 

2.25 

22.7 

6.50 

6.50 

29 -3 

8.10 

8 

10 

33' 

11.30 

11.30 

28. 5 

2.30 

2.30 

22.6 

7-3° 

730 

30-9 

8.17 

8 

•7 

33-2 

II  45 

11.45 

28.0 

2-35 

2-35 

22.6 

7-45 

7-45 

3'-3 

8.22 

8 

22 

li-7, 

M. 

M. 

2.41 

2.41 

22.7 

8.00 

8.00 

31.8 

8.27 

8 

27 

.«-3 

12.00 

12.00 

27.3 

2-45 

2.45 

22.8 

8.08 

8.08 

32.0 

8.35 

8 

35 

33-4 

p.  M. 

P.  M. 

2.51 

2.51 

22.8 

8.15 

8.15 

32.0 

8.39 

8 

39 

ili 

12.15 

12.15 

2b. 7 

2-57 

2.57 

22.8 

8.21 

8.21 

32.1 

8.42 

8 

42 

33-2 

12.30 

12.30 

26.4 

305 

305 

22.7 

8.27 

8.27 

32.2 

8.47 

8 

47 

33-2 

12.45 

12.45 

25.6 

3.10 

3.10 

22.7 

8.32 

8.32 

32.3 

8.51 

8 

51 

33-2 

I  .00 

1.00 

24.9 

3'S 

315 

22.8 

8.39 

8.39 

32.2 

8.54 

8 

54 

33' 

I    15 

•  IIS 

24. s 

3.20 

3.20 

22.8 

8.45 

8.45 

31.8 

9.07 

9.07 

32.8 

Rkmarks. — The  gauge  consisted  of  the  three  joints  of  a  signal-staff,  graduated  in  inches.  This  was  lashed  securely  to  a 
hardwood  slat  of  the  dogsledgc.  An  excavation  was  then  made  in  the  permanent  ice  wall,  in  which  the  opposite  end  of  the 
slat  was  inserted,  and  secured  by  weighting  with  ice,  the  end  of  the  rod  passing  into  the  water  through  the  tidal  crack,  which  was 
al)out  15  inches  [380"""']  wide.  There  was  no  known  disturbance  in  the  position  of  the  gauge  until  8  p.  m.  of  the  2d,  when  it 
was  found  to  have  been  disturbed  by  a  piece  of  ice  from  below  lifting  it  slightly.  The  end  of  the  slat  was  then  frozen  solidly 
into  the  ice  wall,  and  no  other  disturbance  took  place  during  the  series.  At  the  place  of  observation  there  were  no  coast  indenta- 
tions or  other  local  influences  liable  to  affect  the  free  flow  of  the  tide. 


i      I 


■■^;'p:^yihfM-i:aT|'iTilhVlttffligg;tgS 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


257 


Ttdal obsavations,  Notth  Greenland  coast,  about  five  miles  southwest  of  Repulse  Harbor  {^northern  entrance  to 

Gap  Valley). 

[Date,  April  7,  i88j.] 


Washin^lon  mean 

Washingt 

on  mean 

Washingt 

on  mean 

Washingt 

on  mean 

time. 

Gauge. 

time. 

Gauge. 

time. 

Gauge. 

time. 

Gauge. 

Observed. 

A.M. 

Reduced. 

Observed. 

Reduced. 

Observed. 

Reduced. 

Observed. 

Reduced. 

A.  M. 

Inches. 

A.M. 

A.M. 

Inchts, 

r.  M. 

I'.  M. 

Inches. 

V.  M. 

1'.  M. 

Inches. 

6.45 

6.46 

45.8 

11.04 

11.05 

83.1 

4.00 

4.01 

369 

6.00 

6.01 

30.9 

7.10 

7. II 

49.2 

II. 14 

II. IS 

82.8 

4-15 

4.16 

34-7 

6.30 

6.31 

32.8 

725 

7.26 

5'-7 

11.30 

11.31 

81. s 

4.22 

423 

34- • 

7.00 

7.01 

35.8 

7-45 

7.46 

550 

1 1. 45 

II  .46 

80.1 

430 

4-31 

11-^ 

730 

7-3« 

39.0 

8.00 

8.01 

57-9 

M. 

1'.  M. 

4-35 

4- 36 

32.6 

•  8.00 

8.01 

45.2 

8. IS 

8.16 

61 .0 

12.00 

12.01 

78.7 

4.40 

4.41 

32.2 

1       8.30 

8.31 

50.9 

8.30 

8.3« 

64.0 

I'.  M. 

4-45 

4.46 

31.8 

1      9.00 

9.01 

57.8 

8.45 

8.46 

67.0 

12.15 

12.16 

76.7 

4-5° 

4-5« 

3'S 

930 

9.3« 

63.8 

9.00 

9.01 

69.8 

12.30 

17.31 

74-4 

4-55 

4-56 

7>^i 

10.00 

10.01 

70.0 

9'5 

9. 16 

72.8 

12.45 

12.46 

71.8 

500 

5.01 

31.0 

10.30 

10.31 

74-5 

930 

9-3« 

75-2 

I. 00 

1. 01 

68.8 

5.05 

5.06 

30.8 

11.00 

II. 01 

78.7 

9-45 

9.46 

78.7 

I. 15 

I.  16 

65. 7 

5.10 

5. II 

30.6 

:  11.05 

11.06 

79.0 

10.00 

10.01 

80.0 

1.30 

I3I 

62.6 

5'S 

516 

30.6 

j  1 1. 10 

II. II 

79.2 

10.15 

10.16 

81.6 

1-45 

1.46 

60.0 

5.20 

5-21 

30.6 

II. 15 

11.16 

79.5 

10.25 

10.26 

82.1 

2.00 

2.01 

S7.I 

525 

5-26 

.30.5 

11.20 

II. 21 

79.8 

ip.30 

10.31 

82.3 

2'S 

2.16 

54.8 

5-30 

5-3" 

30-5 

11.26 

11.27 

79-8 

'0-3S 

10.36 

82.8 

2.30 

2.31 

SI. 6 

5-35 

536 

30.6 

II. 31 

11.32 

799 

10.40 

10.41 

83.0 

2-45 

2.46 

48.9 

5.40 

5-41 

30.6 

"•35 

11.36 

79-7 

10.45 

10.46 

83.2 

3.00 

3.01 

45-5 

5-45 

5  46 

.30.7 

11.40 

11.41 

79-7 

10.50 

10.51 

83.2 

3'5 

316 

43-7 

5-50 

551 

30.7 

11.45 

11.46 

79.6 

>o-5S 

10.56 

83.1 

3-3° 

3-3« 

41.2 

S-5S 

5-56 

30.8 

11.50 

11.51 

79-3 

11.00 

II. 01 

83.0 

3-4S 

3.46 

389 

Remarks. — The  gauge  consisted  of  the  three  joints  of  a  signal  staff  graduated  in  inches.  This  was  ex|X)sed  on  shore  ice 
suspended  on  a  strong  hard-wood  slat  (from  dog-sledge)  to  which  it  was  securely  lashed.  This  slat  was  frozen  solidly  into  the 
permanent  ice  walls.  The  |X)sition  of  the  gauge  was  verified  by  the  observer  constantly  by  means  of  two  fixed  points  bearing 
on  the  gauge.  I'o.sition  of  the  gauge  on  straight  line  of  coast  free  from  all  indentations.  At  5.25  p.  m.  a  light  swell  was  noticed 
in  tide  hole  which  continued  during  the  rest  of  the  observations,  caused  by  a  strong  southwest  wind  acting  on  a  body  of  open 
water  lying  between  Repulse  Harbor  and  Lincoln  Bay. 

Tidal  observations,  extreme  point  of  Cape  Sumner,  North  Greenland  coast. 
[Date,  April  9,  1883.     Latitude,  about  81°  55'  N. ;  longitude,  about  60°  45''  W.] 


Washington  mean 

Washington  mean 

Washington  mean 

Washington  mean 

time. 

Gauge. 

time. 

Gauge. 

time. 

Gauge. 

time. 

Gauge. 

Observed. 

Reduced. 

Observed. 

Reduced. 

Obser>'ed. 

Reduced. 

Observed. 

Reduced. 

A.  M. 

A.  M. 

Inches. 

W  M. 

p.  M. 

Inches. 

p.  M. 

1'.  M. 

Inches. 

p.  M. 

V.  M. 

Inches. 

^■ii 

8"  34.5"' 

60.0 

12.09 

I2''I0.5'n 

100.6 

3.30 

3''3>.5'" 

66.9 

6.41 

6'>42.5m 

40.6 

9.05 

9  06.5 

70.1 

12.12 

«2    135 

100.6 

345 

3  465 

63.6 

6.44 

6  45.5 

40.7 

9.30 

9  31.5 

76.4 

12.14 

>2  15  5 

100.5 

4.00 

4  01.5 

59.7 

6.47 

648.S 

40.8 

10.00 

10  01.5 

82.7 

12.19 

12   20.5 

100.6 

4^«5 

4  16.5 

55.6 

0.51 

6  52.5 

40.9 

10.30 

10  31.5 

89.8 

12.21 

12    22.5 

100.6 

430 

4  3'. 5 

530 

6.53 

6  54  ■ 

41.0 

10.45 

10  46.5 

92.1 

12.24 

«2  25. 5 

100.5 

445 

4  46. 5 

50.0 

730 

7  31  .J 

43.0 

11.00 

II  01.5 

94.7 

12.27 

12    28.5 

100.4 

5.00 

5  01.5 

47.2 

8.00 

8  01.5 

47.4 

11.15 

11   16.5 

97.0 

12.30 

«2    315 

100.3 

5^'5 

5  "6.5 

45  0 

8.30 

831.5 

52.0 

11.30 

"  31.5 

98.7 

12.35 

12    36.5 

99.9 

525 

5  26.5 

44.0 

9.00 

9  01.5 

58.8 

"35 

II  36.5 

99.0 

12.45 

12   46.5 

99.2 

5.35 

5  36. 5 

43.5 

9.30 

9  31.5 

64.9 

11 .40 

"  4t.5 

99.6 

1. 00 

I    01.5 

97.8 

5.4s 

5  46.5 

42.1 

10.00 

10  01.5 

73-5 

"45 

II  46.5 

99.8 

'••5 

I    16.5 

95-6 

5-55 

5  56.5 

41.5 

10.30 

«o  31.5 

80.1 

11.50 

"  51.5 

99.9 

1,30 

«  3«  5 

93.3 

6.00 

6  01.5 

40.9 

11.00 

II  01.5 

88.5 

"•55 

II  56.5 

100. 1 

I  45 

I  465 

90.9 

6.06 

6  07.5 

40.8 

11.15 

I.   16.5 

91.8 

M. 

1".  M. 

2. 00 

2  01.5 

88.2 

6.12 

6  13.5 

40.7 

11.30 

"  31  5 

95.0 

12.00 

12  01.5 

100.2 

2.15 

2  16. S 

85.6 

6.19 

6  20.5 

40.4 

"45 

II  46.5 

98.6 

P.M. 

2.33 

2  345 

81.6 

6.26 

6  27.5 

40.6 

11.50 

"  5«.5 

98.8 

12.02 

>2  03.5 

100.3 

24s 

2  46.5 

78.8 

6.30 

6  3«.5 

40.6 

11.55 

II  56.5 

99S 

12.04 

12   05.5 

100.6 

3.00 

3  01.5 

75. 3 

6.35 

636.5 

40.6 

m'n't. 

12.07 

12  08.5 

100.6 

3-iS 

3  '6.5 

7'. 5 

6.38 

6  39. 5 

40.6 

12.00 

H.  Mis.  393 17 


If 


258 


TlIK  LADY  FRANKLIN  IJAY  KXI'KUITION. 


i 


Tidal obsen'aHons^  cxtume  point  of  Cape  Sianni-r,  North  Greenltinil  coait — Continued. 

[Dale,  April  lo,  18S3.] 


\Vasliin);tc>n  mean 
time. 

( iau);e. 

htthes. 
iao.2 
100.9 

lOI  .  I 

101 .5 
101. 7 
102.0 

Washington  mean 
time. 

Gauge- 

Inches. 
102. 1 
102.3 
102.5 
102.7 
102.9 
103.2 

WasliiiiUldii  iiican 
time. 

Gauge, 

IllilllS. 

'03 -3 
103.4 

'"3-5 
'03-S 

Wa.sliin|>t()n  mean 
time. 

Gauge. 

huhes. 
'03 -S 
'03 -4 
103..-; 
103. 1 
102.7 

<  H)sened. 

Re<luce<l. 

C)l)served. 

A.M. 
12.22 
12.25 
12.28 
X    12.31 

'2-33 
'2-37 

Reduced. 

A.  M. 

1 2'' 23. 5'" 
12  26.5 
12  29.5 
12  32.5 

'2  34-5 
12  38.5 

Observed. 

A.  M. 

12.40 

'2.43 
12.44 
12.49 
12-53 

Reduced. 

A.  M. 
I2''41.5"' 
12  44.5 

'2   45-5 
12    50.5 

'2  54-5 

Olwerved. 

Reduced. 

A.  M. 

i2'>57.5"' 
I  00.5 
I  02.5 

'  05-5 
I  14.5 

A.  M. 

A.  M. 
1 2'' 01  .5"' 
12  06.5 
J2    II. 5 
12    14.5 
12    16.5 
12    20.5 

A.M. 
12.56 
'2.59 

I.OI 

1.04 

'•'3 

12.05 
12. 10 
12.13 
12.15 
12.19 

Kkmakks. — The  gauge  consisted  of  the  three  joints  of  a  signal  st.ifT  graduated  in  inches.  This  was  ex|x)Std  on  shore  ice, 
suspended  on  a  stnmg,  hardwood  slat  (from  dog-.sleilge),  to  which  it  was  securely  la.shed.  It  was  exposed  at  extreme  point  of 
Capo  Sumner.  The  ])ositi<in  of  the  gauge  was  verilied  by  the  observer  cunslantly  by  means  of  two  lixed  points  bearing  on  the 
gauge.  No  change  in  its  position  coultl  be  detected  during  the  series  of  observations.  Tide-hole  entirely  free  from  ice  or  any- 
thing that  could  interfere  with  its  position. 

Meteorological  observations  during  the  journey  to  North  Greenland  coast. 


Thermometer  No.  i,  ivory               \V 

nd. 

scale. 

1 )ate. 
1883. 

Time. 

liarometer 
No.  11. 

Weather. 

Locality, 

Direc- 
tion. 

Velocity. 

Observed,     j     Minimum. 

Inches. 

mm. 

h'ahr. 

C.        Fahr. 

C. 

Mar.  27 

4.  00  ]).  m. 

29.90 

759-45 

—  II 

—23.9! 

1  sw. 

Light.. 

F-iir 

Cape  lieechey. 

28 

7.  00  a.  m. 

29.92 

759-95 

—  9 

-22.8 

—12 

-  24. 4     Calm. 

I.t.  snow  . 

Do. 

5.00  p.  m. 

29.96 

760.97 

-  7 

-21.7 



Calm. 

■ 

Lt.  snow  . 

kobeson    Channel,  near 
Cape  Sumner. 

29 

7.  30  a.  m. 

29.91 

759.  70 

-  7 

-21.7 

10 

-23-3 

S. 

»Hrisk._ 

Cloudy 

Do. 

7.  00  p.  m. 
7.00  a.  m. 

29.91 
29.99 

759.70 
76'- 73 

~l 

—  21 .7 

SW. 

Kresh 

Threat'ing 
I.t.  snow  . 

Newman  Bay. 
Do. 

30 

—22.2 

—12 

—24.4 

sw. 

light.. 

7.  00  ]).  m. 
7.00  a.  m. 

29.22 
29.09 

742.  17 

—24.4 

Calm. 

Fair 

On  divide,  in  Gap  Valley . 
Do. 

3' 

7.38.  «7 

28 

—33-3 

-36 

-.37.8 

Calm. 

Clear  

5  .00  ]).m. 

29.71 

754-62 

—  22 

-30.0 

sw. 

Light.. 

Fair 

North  end  of  (jap  \'alley. 

Apr.    I 

7 .  00  a .  m . 

29.50 

749-,29 

--30 

—34-4 

—34 

-36-7 

N. 

Light.. 

Clear  ... 

Do. 

I 

7.00  p.m. 

29.61 

752.08 

-40 

— 40.0 

Calm. 

tKair 

Near  IJlack  Horn  Cliffs. 

2 

7 .  00  a .  m . 

29.61 

752.08 

—  U 

-.?8.3 

sw. 

Light.. 

Fair 

Do. 

1. 00  p.m. 

29.68 

7.53-86 

-28 

-33-3 

..^      _ 

NK. 

Light.. 

Fair 

Do. 

2.00  p.m. 

29.  65 

753- 'o 

—  1? 

-36.1 

-45 

—42.8 

NK. 

Light.. 

Fair 

Do. 

3.00  p.m. 

29.71 

754-62 

--S6 

-S7-8 

NK. 

Light. 

Fair 

Do. 

4 .  00  p .  m . 

29.72 

754-87 

—42 

—41.1 

Calm. 

Fair 

Do. 

5 .  00  p .  m . 

29.72 

754-87 

—42 

-41-' 

Calm. 

F'air 

Do. 

6.00  p.m. 
7.  00  p.  m. 

29.71 
29.60 

754.62 
75' -83 

—40 

-,8 

— 40.0 

Calm. 

Fair...    . 

Do. 

--38-9 

NK. 

Light.. 

Fair 

Do. 

9.  00  p.  m. 

29.61 

752.08 

—42 

41. 1 

Calm, 

Fair 

Do. 

3 

S.  00  a.  m. 

29.  68 

753-86 

22 

—30.0 

-S2 

-46.7 

NK. 

Light. 

Clou<ly 

Do. 

1).  00  a.m. 

29.  69 

754" 

—  22 

-30.0 

NK. 

Light.. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

1 0.  00  a .  m . 

29- 58  ,75' -32 
29.  62 1 752.33 

-19 
20 

-28. 3 
-28.9 

NK. 

Light.. 
Light. 

Cloudy 

Cloudy 

Do. 

11 .  00  a .  m . 

NK. 

Do. 

1 2. 00  m. 

29.01   T^ii.oS 

22 

—30.0 

NK. 

Light. 

Cloudy... 

Do. 

1 .  00  j; .  m . 

29.  63 

752.59 

24 

-31. 1 

NK. 

I  .ight . . 

Cloudy... 

Do. 

2.  00  ]>.m. 

29.61 

752.08 

?o 

-34-4 

NE. 

Light.. 

Fair 

Do. 

3.  00  p .  m . 

29.60 

7S'-83 

.(4 

-36.7 

NK. 

Light.. 

Fair 

Do. 

5.00  |i.in. 

29.41 

747.00 

iS 

-37-2 



NK. 

Light.. 

F'iiir 

Do. 

7.  00  p.m. 

29.57 

751.06 

38 

-  38.9 

_ 

Calm. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

4 

10.  00  a.m. 

29.51 

749-54 

-    10 

—23-3 

-4{ 

-41.7 

SW. 

Light.. 

Cloudy 

Do. 

S 

12.  00  in. 

30.05 

763 . 26 

LI] 

SE. 

Gale.. 

AlKjut  4  miles  from  Re- 

pulse Harbor. 

*  High  winds  during  the  night,  f  W'ater  clouds  over  imrlliern  sky.  \  At  I  )).  m.  of  the  4th  overtaken  by  a  severe  SE.  gale 
while  passing  over  the  snow-slopes;  went  into  camp,  where  we  remained  for  over  forty  hours.  Gale  abated  early  morning  of 
the  6th. 


au^e 


'iitfi 
10.5  5 

IOJ.2 

103.1 

102.7 


tore  ice, 
jioint  iif 
jT  on  the 
or  any- 


;1,  near 

)  Valley. 
\' alley. 
Cliffs. 


Irom  Rc- 
br. 

L  SE.  t;ale 
luurning  of 


THE  LADY  FKANKMN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Areteorological  ohsfrt'titions  liiiring  the  journey  to  North  Greenland  <-twi/— Continued. 


259 


Karonieter 
No.  II. 


Thermometer  No.  I,  ivory 
scale. 


Observed. 


Minimum. 


Wind. 


mm. 
762 . 24 

762. 49 
765.  29 
756.  6s 
754.  II 
754-62 

755-89 
756-65 

756. 9« 
756.91 
757.16 
756.65 
759  70 
759-95 
761.73 
757-4« 
753-86 

753- «o 
752-  59 
752-33 
752-33 
752.08 

751-83 
75'-57 
752.08 

752.33 
752.841 

752.33 
754-62 


Fahr. 


760.72 


-  7 
—24 

-  10 

-  6 
—12 

-«3 
-14 

->s 

-16 
-14 
-14 
-14 

—  12 

-29 

—  12 

-'3 

—  9 

—  10 

-•3 
-16 
-18 
-16 
—14 
—18 
—24 
-32 
-3' 
-30 
-24 
-29 
-24 


-21.7 

3«-« 

-23 -3 

-21.1 

-24.4 
-25.0 
-25.6 
-26. 1 
-26.7 
-25.6 
-25.6 
-25.6 
-24.4 

-33-9 
-24.4 
-25.0 
-22.8 

-23-3 
-25.0 
-26.7 
-27.8 
-26.7 
-25.6 
-27.8 
-3«-« 
-35-6 
-35-0 
-34-4 
-3>-' 
-33-9 
-3'-' 


Fahr. 


C. 


—32 


-35-6 


-30 


-34 
-45 
-36 


-34-4 


-36-7 
— 4V.8'' 

'-3y.8 


Uirec- 
tloo. 


SK. 


SK. 
8E. 
SVV. 
NE. 

sw. 
sw. 

sw. 
sw. 
sw. 
sw. 
sw. 
sw. 
sw. 
sw. 
sw. 

SE. 

SE. 

SE. 

SE. 

SW. 

SE. 

SE. 

NE. 

NE. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

SW. 

Calm. 

NE. 

NW. 


Velocity 


Ciale. 


(iale.. 
Kresh . , 
Light. 
Light. 
Light. 
Light. 
Kresh  . 
Fresh . 
Brisk  . 
Hrisk  . 
Urisk  . 
Brisk  . 
Brisk  . 
Brisk  . 
(Jentle 
Light. 
Light. 
Light. 
Light. 
Light. 
Light . 
Fresh . 
Light. 
Light . 


Fresh . 

i.ight"; 

Light. 


Weather. 


Cloudy 

Fair 

Cloudy. 
Snow . . 
Snow  .. 
Cloudy. 
Snow . . 
Snow  .. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 

Fair 

Cloudy. 
Fair  ... 
Cloudy. 
Cloudy. 

F'air 

Fair 

Fair 

Cloudy. 

Fair 

Fair 

Fair  ... 
Fair  _  . 
Clear  . . 
Clear  . . 
Clear  .. 

F'air 

Fair ... 


Locality. 


About  4  miles  from  Re- 
pulse Harbor. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Cape  Sumner. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Robeson  Channel . 

Do. 
Depot  B. 
*Do. 


•Strong  SW.  wind  blowing  while  crossing  Robeson  Channel. 


W.  S.  Jewell, 

Observer. 


Appendix  No.  72. — Sergeant  Rice''s  report  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  April  20,  1883. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that  in  accordance  with  your  instruction.s  of  April  5,  I  examined  on 
the  following  day,  with  dog-sledge,  the  ice  on  this  side  of  Hall's  Basin,  with  the  view  of  selecting  the  best 
route  towards  Thank  God  Harbor,  and  decided  on  Distant  Cape  as  the  best  starting  point. 

On  April  10,  at  8.25  a.  m.,  I  left  station  for  Thank  God  Harbor  with  a  party  of  10  men,  and  accom- 
panied by  Dr.  Pavy.  We  were  supported  by  a  dog-team  driven  by  Private  Schneider.  We  reached  Distant 
Cape  at  10.20  a.  m.,  and  picked  up  tent  and  turned  off  into  Robeson  Channel  at  i  i.io  a.  m.  A  field  of 
new  ice  carried  us  some  distance;  a  fringe  of  hummocks,  with  soft  snow,  then  intervened;  after  which  a 
paleocrystic  floe  furnished  good  traveling  to  about  three  miles  from  shore.  The  travehng  then  became 
very  rough  and  it  was  found  expedient  to  put  six  men  on  the  small  sledge  and  reapportion  the  loads 
between  the  sledges.  The  remainder  of  the  party  were  engaged  in  road-making.  More  time  was  occupied 
in  improving  the  road  than  was  necessary  to  insure  the  passage  of  the  dog  and  man  sledges  outward 
bound,  as  we  expected  to  profit  by  it  when  returning  with  the  heavy  boat.  Many  detours  were  made  to 
connect  the  small  floes  and  avoid  the  rubble-ice  and  snow-drifts,  and  also  in  picking  a  route  through  the 


i 


1 


)        ! 


'    ^1 


i 


ill 

Si 


ll 


260 


THK  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITION. 


hummocks.  The  snow  between  the  floes  and  among  the  rubble-ice  was  soft  and  deep.  We  encamped 
on  a  paleocrystic  floe  at  5.15  p.  ni.  I  estimated  that  wc  were  then  6  miles  from  Distant  Cape,  12  from  home 
station,  and  had  traveled  at  least  14  miles  to  make  good  the  distance.  Weather  fine  ;  temperature  at  6  p.  m., 
-18°  [-27.8°  C.J;  at  6.30  p.m.,  -25°  [-31.70  C.];  and  at  7.30  p.  m.,  -32°  [—35.6°  C.J. 

On  Wednesday,  \[)t\\  i  i,  we  broke  camp  at  5.30  a.  m.  The  cooks  had  been  calle<l  at  3  a.  m.,  at .  "ich 
time  the  temperature  was  —28°  [ — 33.3°  CJ.  I  cached  a  portion  of  our  provisions,  to  be  used  returning, 
and  marked  the  pLice  with  a  small  flag.  After  picking  a  way  through  some  rough  ice  and  soft  snow  a  short 
distance  from  camp,  a  large  undulating  floe  opened  u|),  over  which  we  maile  good  time,  as  the  traveling  vvas 
excellent.  The  floe  w.as  the  most  part  bare,  and  where  the  snow  lay  it  was  jiacked  sufficiently  hard  to 
support  the  sledges.  The  snow  appeared  to  decrease  in  quantity  as  we  left  the  shore  of  Grinnell  Land. 
Other  floes  of  like  character  presented  themselves  from  time  to  time,  and  our  progress  was  altogether  satis- 
factory, although  the  route  was  not  always  direct,  as  detours  were  still  necessary  to  secure  the  best  floes  and 
avoid  the  hummocks  between  them.  About  1 2  ni.  a  heavy  haze  or  fog  settled  down  upon  the  Greenland  shore 
and  completely  hid  the  coast.  By  noting  a  line  of  hummocks  before  the  land  was  entirely  shut  from 
view,  we  were  enabled  to  continue  traveling  in  a  direction  nearly  correct.  A  wind  was  blowing  all  day, 
lightly  at  first,  from  the  SW.,  veering  afterwards  to  NE.,  and  increasinf;  at  i  p.  m.  to  about  18  miles  per 
hour  1 8'"  ])er  second  |,  with  drift.  The  faces  of  most  of  the  party  now  suffered  frost-bites,  and  several  were 
(juite  tired,  and  affected  by  the  weather.  We  could  no  longer  see  our  course  nor  pick  out  a  route;  and 
at  2  p.  m.  were  forced  into  camp  under  the  lee  of  a  line  of  hummocks.  I  considered  12  miles  to  have 
been  made  good  this  date,  although  the  shore  could  not  be  seen  to  assist  us  in  judging.  We  traveled  at 
least  17  or  18  miles.     Temperature  at  4  p.  m.  —5°  f— 20.6''  C.J. 

After  camping  the  storm  increased,  and  at  times  the  tents  were  so  violently  shaken  by  the  wind  that  I 
feared  for  their  security.  They  were  enveloped  in  a  blinding  drift.  It  was  11.45  p.  m.  before  the  weather 
had  sufficiently  moderated  to  admit  of  a  move  being  made.  The  cooks  were  then  called ;  wind  still  blow- 
ing 6  or  8  miles  an  hour  [about  3  or  4'°  per  second]. 

At  I  a.  m.  April  12,  the  temperature  was  —10°  [—23.3°  C.J.  I  cached  the  small  sledge  and  all  our 
p'-ovisions,  except  one  day's  rations,  and  at  2  a.  m.  we  moved  on  towards  Thank  God  Harbor,  still  ap- 
parently 6  or  7  miles  distant.  Light  wind  still  blowing.  The  floes  continued  to  favor  us,  but  appeared 
heavier,  and  rather  more  broken  up.  The  snow  banks  were  also  more  plentiful.  As  before,  we  were  com- 
l)e!led  to  make  some  concessions  to  distance  in  selecting  the  best  traveling,  and  kept  up  our  road  making. 
The  best  floes  led  us  towards  Cape  Lupton  where  the  ice  appeared  smoother.  At  7  a.  m.,  when  within 
i^^  or  2  miles  of  the  observatory,  we  halted  and  unloaded  from  the  ilog-sledge  everything  but  the  lashing 
and  tools  required  for  the  fitting  up  the  boat  and  sledge.  Four  men  were  left  behind  to  pitch  the  tents,  with 
directions  to  follow  us  when  that  was  done.  With  the  remainder  of  the  party  I  proceeded  to  the  observa- 
tory, still  the  most  prominent  object  in  Thank  God  Harbor,  where  we  arrived  at  8  a  m.  We  found  the 
12-man  sledge  partly  covered  with  snow,  but  all  its  parts  complete,  although  one  runner  was  detached, 
and  the  lashing  of  the  other  loose.  While  it  was  being  relashed,  the  snow  was  shoveled  off"  the  contents  of 
the  observatory,  which  is  roofless  and  was  drifted  full,  but  all  of  the  articles  I  was  instructed  by  you  to  bring 
from  there  could  not  be  found.  The  stearine  and  stearine  lamp  were  missing.  We,  however,  brought 
away  the  pemniican  and  sundry  small  articles.  The  boat  was  found  to  be  in  good  condition,  and  her 
fittings  and  gear  all  complete. 

After  preparations  for  leaving  the  place  had  been  maile,  we  all  repaired  to  the  grave  of  Captain  Hall, 
over  which  the  stars  and  stripes  were  draped,  while  about  it  were  silently  groujied  the  whole  party.  The 
deportment  of  everyone  was  subdued,  decorous,  and  respectful,  and  in  every  way  befitting  the  occasion. 
All  seemed  impressed  by  the  contemplation  of  this  isolated  resting  [jlace,  so  far  removed  from  the  haunts  of 
man,  amidst  a  desolate  surrounding  of  snow  and  ice. 

The  graves  of  the  two  British  seamen,  who  peri.shed  in  the  discharge  of  their  duty  with  the  F.nglish 
expedition  of  i875-'76,  were  then  visited  and  the  ceremonies  repeated  in  the  same  respectful  and  sympa- 
thetic manner.  We  found  the  head-stones  of  the  latter  graves  thrown  down  by  the  wind  and  broken,  the 
fragments  lying  on  the  mounds.  As  you  did  not  anticipate  this,  we  were,  of  course,  unprovided  with  the 
means  of  replacing  them. 

We  left  Thank  God  Harbor  at  1 2.30  j).  m.  Found  the  boat  more  easily  handled  than  we  expected, 
even  over  the  ice-foot.  We  reached  our  tents,  pitched  on  floe,  at  2  p.  m.  Weather  very  pleasant;  tempera- 
ture, at  4  p.  m.,  —5°  [  —  20.6°  C.J. 


m 


H^i^i:::i^^di^ 


THE  LADY  KKANKMN  BAY  KXPEDITION. 


261 


Friday,  April  i,^.  was  dull  and  cloudy  with  light  breeze  from  the  northwest,  and  snow  and  frost  flying 
in  small  particles.  Wc  pulled  out  of  cani|)  at  3  a.  m.,  the  cooks  having  been  calleil  at  12.45  •'>•  '"•  'Y^rn- 
perature  at  i  a.  m.,  — 13.5°  ( -  iS'3°  C.].  At  1 1.05  a.  ni.  we  reached  the  cache  last  deposited  and  went  into 
camp.  Several  of  the  party  suflereil  frost-bites. .  We  found  that  the  boat  rode  well,  but  pulled  heavily, 
especially  over  the  snow-drifts  and  hunimocks,  as  her  bows  had  to  be  elevated  to  a  great  height  before  the 
center  of  gravity  was  attained  and  she  coulil  be  made  to  descend  again.  At  times  it  retjuired  at  least  three 
of  us  out  of  the  diag-ropes  to  ease  her  down  or  guide  her  between  Inimmocks. 

Temperature  at  12  m.,  — 95'' [  — 23-1°  C.];  weather  growing  worse,  cloudy  and  snowy,  with  raw  wind. 

At  2  |).  m.  wind  had  increased  to  at  least  28  or  30  miles  per  hour  [about  12"'  per  second]  from  the 
north,  accompanied  with  heavy  drift.  The  weather  was  carefully  wat(  hed  with  the  object  of  breaking  (amp, 
but  not  until  6.20  o'clock  of  the  next  morning  was  it  sulFu  icntly  unproved  to  warrant  calling  the  <()oks, 
arlthough  life  in  the  sleeping-bags  for  so  long  a-  lime — already  nineteen  hours — was  exceedingly  tiresome, 
and  traveling  preferable. 

Saturday,  Ajiril  14,  at  9  a.  m.  we  were  again  on  the  march.  Temperature  at  8  a.  m.,  —14°  [  —  25.6  C.| ; 
wind  still  blowing  8  or  10  miles  an  hour  [about  3  or  4'"  per  second],  with  snow-drifts.  After  getting  through 
the  first  rough  ice,  we,  at  10  a.  m.,  made  sail  on  the  boat  and  found  it  a  great  help.  With  excci)tion  of 
about  half  an  hour,  when  the  sail  was  taken  in  to  cross  a  line  of  hummocks,  we  utilized  it  all  day.  Our 
course  gave  us  only  a  side  wind  ;  a  fairer  breeze  would  have  enabled  us  to  dispense  with  the  drag-ropes.  It 
is  a  fair  estimate  to  state  that  the  sail  did  the  work  of  at  least  five  men  all  day.  We  carried  in  the  boat  all 
her  gear,  oars,  tkc,  also  cooking-utensi  s,  tent-poles,  one  tent,  one  sleeping-bag,  and  a  few  small  articles 
and  the  small  sledge.  Everything  else  was  carried  by  the  dog-sledge,  which  was  heavily  loaded.  Private 
Biederl)ick  had  his  foot  frozen  on  the  march,  but  it  was  strijjped  and  circulation  soon  restored. 

At  12.30  p.  m.  we  were  met  by  Sergeant  Hrainard,  with  dog-team  and  small  party.  We  learned  that, 
the  North  Greenland  i)arty  having  returned,  you  had  dispatched  him  to  meet  us  and  assist  in  moving  some 
of  our  constant  weights  and  eiiuijiment.  We  placed  on  his  sledge  everything  carried  in  the  boat,  and  added 
part  of  the  load  of  our  dog-sledge.  With  the  advantage  of  this  assistance,  in  addition  to  the  .sail,  I  decided 
to  make  the  first  camp  of  our  outward  journey,  so  as  to  leave  Lut  one  day's  travel  before  us.  We  camped 
near  first  cache  at  5  p.  m.  The  dog-sledges  had  preceded  us,  and  tents  were  already  pitched.  Party  con- 
siderably exhausted,  as  we  had  traveled  fast. 

Temperature  at  6  p.  m.  —16.5°  [  —  26.9°    C.J;  at  7  p.  m.,  —18"  [  —  27.8"  C.j. 

Sunday,  April  15,  at  7.45  a.  m.  we  had  breakfasted,  packed  up,  and  were  again  ready  to  start.  The 
two  dog-teams  moved  on  ahead,  hauling  all  our  constant  weights,  provisions,  and  equipment,  leaving  us 
only  the  empty  boat.  They  soon  distanced  us.  The  traveling  was  very  rough,  and  it  took  us  five  hours  to 
reach  Distant  Cape.  At  this  place  we  were  met  by  Sergeant  Brainard,  with  fourteen  dogs  and  native  driver. 
By  preconcerted  arrangements  he  had  returned,  with  your  permission,  after  having  conveyed  his  load  to  the 
station.  The  road  in  from  Distant  Cape  being  smooth,  the  dogs  were  attached  to  the  boat-sledge,  and  we 
were  soon  at  Dutch  Lsland,  where  the  boat  was  left.     Party  reached  Fort  Conger  at  3  p.  m. 

I  estimate  that  the  distance  traveled  each  way  by  us  between  Distant  Cape  and  Thank  God  Harbor 
was  36  miles,  to  which  may  be  added,  both  going  and  returning,  the  6  miles  between  Distant  Cape  and 
home  station. 

I  desire  to  acknowledge  the  assistance  of  Dr.  Pavy,  who  performed  arduous  work  each  day  with  the 
dog-sledge,  and  was  untiring  in  his  solicitude  for  the  comfort  of  the  men  when  in  camp.  I  wi.sh  also  to 
state  that  the  conduct  of  each  member  of  the  party  was  exemplary,  and  the  exertions  of  all  very  praise- 
worthy. 

Very  respectfully, 

Geo.  W.  Rice, 
Strgeafit,  S/\'mi/  Coifs,  U.  6",  A. 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cava/iy,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Fianklin  Bay  Expedition. 

Accompanying  this  please  find  transcript  of  sledge  journal  kept  during  trip. — G.  W.  R. 


BW 


262 


Tin:  L\U\   KHANKMN  HAY   KXI'KIHTION. 


t 


11 


M 


Slfiwe  Journal  or  trip  wi  in  pamtv  h)k  iioat  lo  TfiANK  God  Hariior, /Vprii.  ioto  15,  inclusive,  1883. 

T)iesiitiy,  April  10,  i.S8j. —  Left  Fort  Conger  at  S.jj  a.  ni.  Missed  jxiles  of  six-n)an  tent  wlien  near 
half-way  between  Dutch  Islami  and  Distant  Cape.  Sent  S<hnei(ler  back  for  them  with  <log-teain,  transfer- 
ring ilogs  from  large  to  small  sledge,  which  we  unloaded.  I'ut  full  force  of  men  on  large  loaded  sledge  and 
proceeded.  Reache<l  Distant  C'ape  at  10.20  a.m.  Picked  up  cached  tent  at  11. 10  a.m.  New  ice  for 
some  distance  into  the  straits,  then  a  fringe  of  hummocks  with  soft  snow  between.  A  paleocrystic  floe  then 
took  us  some  distance  from  shore  (3  miles).  Dog-sledge  overtook  us  at  12.15  p.  m.  Traveling  now  rough. 
Apportioned  the  loads  between  man  and  dog  sledges.  Six  men  pulling  the  small  sledge,  the  rest  of  party 
road-making  with  axe  and  shovels.  Compelled  to  take  serjjcntine  route  to  pick  the  best  w.-iy.  Snow  be- 
tween floes  and  rubble-ice  very  ileep  and  troublesome. 

Went  into  camp  at  5.15  p.  m.  on  paleocrystic  Hoe.  We  are  about  6  miles  from  I)istant  Cape,  12  from 
home,  and  have  traveled  at  le-tst  14  miles  to  make  it  good.  'I'raveliiig  looks  more  promising  for  to-morrow. 
Weather  fine.  Temperature  at  6  p.  m.,  —  18°  [  —  27.8°  C.|;  at  6.30  p.  m.,  — 25°  [— 3i.7''C.] ;  at  7.10  p.  m., 
—  320  [ — 35.6°  C],  estimated  [being  below  scale |,  but  marked  on  thermometer  case  for  verification. 

Wednesday,  April  11,  1883 — Ca'led  cooks  at  3  a.  m  Temperature  at  tinie,  —28°  [  —  33.3°  C.];  at  5 
a.  m.,  — 25°  [ — 31.7°  C.J.  Cached  axe,  some  provisions  and  dog-food,  and  marked  place  with  tiag.  Broke 
camp  at  5.30  a.  m.  Klison  and  I  went  ahead  to  pick  out  a  road.  I  put  I  iim  to  assist  doctor  and  Schneider 
with  dog-sledge,  as  it  worked  heavily  yesterday.  Picked  a  way  through  rough  ice  and  snow-drifts  surround- 
ing camp,  when  we  struck  good  floes  and  made  excellent  time.  Had  to  make  detours  to  keep  the  floes  and 
avoid  the  fringes  of  hummocks.  About  1 2  m  'lie  (Ireenland  shore  was  completely  hiilden  by  fog.  Uy  noting 
hummocks  ahead  we  were  able  to  keep  on  01  r  way,  guided  partly  by  the  wind.  W  ind  blowing  all  day,  first 
SW.,  afterwards  veering  to  NK.  At  i  p.  m.  wind  increased  to  18  mfies  per  hour  [S"'  per  second],  with  drift. 
Faces  of  almost  all  the  party  frost-bitten.  Ni/  able  to  see  our  way,  and  several  of  the  party  tired,  and  all 
aflTected  by  the  wind ;  could  not  do  otherwise  thai  camp.  Have  pitched  tents  under  the  leo  ol  a  line  of  hum- 
mocks, that  break  the  wind  somewhat. 

I  think  we  have  made  good  1 2  miles  to-day,  although  we  cannot  see  either  shore.  Have  traveled  at 
least  18  miles.      Temperature  at  4  p.  m.,  —12°  [  —  24.4°  C.]. 

Looked  out  at  10  p.  m.  and  again  at  11  p.  ni.  with  intention  of  calling  cooks,  but  weather  too  bad  to 
admit  of  start.  Storming  very  hard,  shaking  the  tents  violently  and  threatening  to  dislodge  them.  The 
condensed  moisture  was  showered  continually  on  the  sleeping-bags.  At  1 1.45  p.  in.  called  cooks.  Weather 
moderated,  but  wind  still  blowing  5  miles  an  hour  [2.2"'  per  second]. 

Thursday,  April  12,  1883. — Temperature  at  i  a.  m.,  —10°  [—23.3°  C],  Cache  all  our  provisions  and 
dog-food  but  one  day's  rations.  Also  leave  bchini  '  small  man-sledge,  and  carry  everything  on  the  dog- 
sledge.  Break  camp  at  2  a.  m.;  wind  still  blowin  ;  2  or  3  miles  [about  i'"  per  second]  an  hour.  Hall's  Rest 
appears  to  be  7  or  8  miles  distant.  I  went  ahead  with  small  party  to  select  and  build  the  road.  Several 
were  left  behind  to  help  the  heavily-laden  dog-sledge  along.  Floes  carried  us  into  Thank  God  Harbor, 
although  detours  were  nece.ssary  to  avoid  hummocks  and  snow-banks.  Our  route  wound  us  up  around  Cape 
Lupton,  which  we  passed  close  to.  Several  of  the  men  aijpcir  very  stiff  this  morning;  I  suppose  it  will  wear 
off"  after  traveling  some  distance.  At  7  a.  m.  unloaded  sledge  on  small  floe  about  \}4  or  2  miles  from  the 
observatory.  Left  Gardiner  behind  with  three  others  to  pitch  the  tents.  Reached  the  observatory  at  8  a.  m.; 
and  Gardiner  and  his  companions  soon  joined  us.  The  observatory  is  roofless  and  only  three  sides  of  the 
wall  standing.  Found  the  twelve-man  sledge  partly  covered  with  snow.  One  runner  detached,  but  the  parts 
all  complete.  Frederick,  and  Flison  at  once  commenced  relashing  the  whole  sledge  and  putting  it  together. 
In  the  mean  time  others  of  the  p.irty  were  at  work  shoveling  the  snow  off"  the  contents  of  the  observatory, 
which  was  drifted  full.  Cannot  find  all  the  articles  I  am  instructed  to  bring  to  Fort  Conger.  Had  the 
embankment  cleared  away  from  boat  and  turned  her  over.  Found  gear  all  complete  and  boat  in  good  con- 
dition. The  whole  party  then  repaired  to  the  grave  of  Captain  Hall,  over  which  we  displayed  the  national 
flag.  Afterwards  visited  the  graves  of  Hand  and  Paul  and  repeated  tokens  of  respect.  Relics  were  picked 
up  near  all  three  graves  and  preserved  by  members  of  the  party. 

Deposited  expedition  record  in  cairn  near  Hall's  Rest.  Lashed  boat  on  sledge  and  turned  our  backs 
on  the  observatory;  reached  Thank  God  Harbor  at  12.30  p.  m.  We  brought  away  the  three  tins  ot 
pemraican,  some  small  articles,  and  three  empty  cans;  also  some  packages  of  farina  and  a  few  pounds  of 


I  '4 


TUB  liADY  FKANKLIS  HAY   KXTKIHTION. 


2r.3 


graham  hrcad  for  our  own  use.  Rcarhed  tents  on  floo  at  3  p.  m.  Tlu>  Iioat  riili-s  well,  l)tit  hauls  heavily. 
Men  all  in  good  spirits  and  enc  oiirageil,  as  the  boat  is  handled  more  easily  than  they  expected.  Temperature 
4  P-  ni.,  —5'  [-20.6'  C".]. 

/h'</(/»'. ///*/■// 13,  1883.— Called  eooks  at  12.45  '"*•'"•  Temperature  at  i  a.  m  ,  — 13.S'' [  — 25.3°  C.|. 
I'ulled  out  of  camp  at  3  a.  m.  Weather  <  loudy  and  dull,  with  light  iiree/e  from  the  northwest  and  light  snow 
in  the  air.  Made  our  eai  he — about  7  miles  from  'I'hank  (Jod  Harbor — at  11.05  a.  m.  H.id  to  follow  the 
windings  of  the  ro.id  made  going  over,  wliich  took  us  over  a  good  deal  of  ground;  but  road  reciuired  no 
improvement.  Sledge  and  b(jat  haul  heavily  over  snow  banks  and  hununocks,  as  they  have  to  bo  elevated 
to  a  great  height  on  one  side  before  they  can  descend  on  the  other.  I  have  placetl  I, inn  and  Henry — 
two  of  our  lari.est  men — in  the  hindmost  belts  and  at  all  difficult  jilaces  they  drop  out  and  grasp  the  bows 
of  the  bo.-it  to  ease  her  down.  Whenever  the  traveling  is  rough  I  stay  behind  with  the  boat  to  guide  her. 
We  carry  in  the  boat  all  her  gear  and  oars;  .also  coo.Jng  gear,  tent-poles,  i  tent,  i  sleeping  bag,  and  other 
small  articles.  All  else  is  carried  on  the  dog-sledge  which  is  heavily  loaded,  and  doctor  and  Schneider  have 
to  work  hard;  the  dogs  are  working  admirably,  following  our  tracks.  Temperature  at  12  ni.,  —9.5" 
[—  13.1°  C.];  weather  disagree.able,  cloudy,  and  snowy,  with  raw  wind.  At  2  p.  m.  winil  increased  so  as  to 
endanger  the  tents.  At  10  p.  m.  I  got  up  and  went  outside.  Weather  would  not  admit  of  a  start.  Wind 
was  blowing  28  or  30  miles  an  hour  [about  13'"  per  second]  from  the  north,  with  blinding  drift. 

Satiin/ay,  April  14,  1883. — VV'eather  has  been  carefully  watched,  with  intention  of  moving  so  soon  as 
it  moderated.  Gardiner  was  out  at  2  a.  m.  and  reported  the  weather  still  very  bad.  At  6.20  a.  m.  it  had 
improved  ;  called  cooks.  Temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —  13-5°  [  —  25.3°  C!.J.  We  pulled  out  of  camp  at  9  a.  m. 
'i'eniperature  at  8  a.  m.,  —  14°  [  —  25.6°  C.].  Wind  is  now  (9  a.  m.)  blowing  8  or  10  miles  an  hour  [about  4'" 
per  second]  with  some  drift.  After  getting  through  first  rough  ice  we — at  o  a.  m. — made  sail  on  the  boat, 
and  found  it  a  great  heli).  Took  in  sail  at  10.30  a.  m.  to  pass  through  hummocks.  Reached  large  floe  and 
made  sail  again  at  1 1  a.  m.  Carrieil  away  step  of  mast,  but  lashed  it  to  do  temporary  duty.  Elison  will 
re;  air  it  to-night.  Carried  sail  all  day,  I, inn  and  I  steering.  At  one  time  whole  party  were  out  of  drag-ropes, 
and  wind  was  sufficient  to  move  the  sledge  along.  We  were  sailing  too  near  the  wind — it  was  NNK. —  to 
receive  its  full  benefit.  At  12.30  p.  m.  we  were  met  by  Sergeant  Brainard  with  dog-team  and  Kskimo  Fred- 
erik.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  accompanies  him.  The  North  Greenland  party  has  been  turned  back  by  open 
water  and  Lieutenant  CJreely  sends  Brainard  to  assist  in  moving  part  of  our  load.  Receive  a  letter  from  com- 
mander to  that  effect.  Brainard  takes  everything  out  of  boat,  and  part  of  Schneider's  load.  I  conclude 
with  this  help  to  reach  first  cache  to-night,  so  as  to  arrive  home  to-morrow.  Camped  a  short  distance  from 
cache  at  5  p.  m.  The  dog-sledges  traveled  l.aster  than  we,  and  tents  were  pitched  by  the  time  we  came  up. 
Most  of  the  party  much  exhausted,  as  we  traveled  very  fast.  Gardiner  had  a  sick  stomach  in  the  morn- 
ing and  vomited  his  breakfast,  but  stuck  manfully  to  the  drag-ropes.  Biederbick  had  his  great  toe  frozen 
on  the  way,  but  circdation  was  speedily  restored  by  the  application  of  warm  hands. 

Temperature  at  6  p.m.,  —16.5°  [  — 26.9°C.];  at  7  p.m.,  —18°  [  — 27.8°C.].  There  arc  many  calls 
made  on  Brainard's  tent,  after  supper,  to  learn  the  particulars  of  the  northern  trip. 

Sunday,  April  \t^. — Cooks  were  called  at  a  little  before  6  o'clock.  The  men  were  very  wakefullast 
night  and  wished  to  have  started  earlier.  All  ready  to  start  at  7.45  a.  m.  The  dog-sledges  go  ahe.ad  and 
carry  all  our  constant  weights,  provisions,  and  etpiipment,  leaving  us  tlie  empty  boat.  Lieutenant  Kisling- 
bury volunteered  to  stay  with  and  assist  us.  Traveling  from  here  to  Distant  Cajjc  is  very  rough.  Sent 
word  to  the  commanding  officer,  suggesting  that  Brainard  should  return  to  meet  us  at  Distant  Cape,  with 
large  number  of  dogs,  to  haul  this  boat  in  to  Dutch  Island.  Stopped  on  the  way  a  short  time  to  melt  some 
ice  to  quench  our  thirst.  Reached  Distant  Cape  in  five  hours,  at  12.45.  ^^^  here  met  by  Brainard,  at  this 
place  and  time,  with  Eskimo  Frederik  and  14  dogs.  Dogs  hauled  tne  boat  to  Dutch  Island,  over  the  good 
road,  with  eas'..  Reached  Fort  Conger  at  3  p.  m.  I  am  much  pleased  with  the  conduct  of  every  one  on 
the  trip.     All  'WX  the  very  best  they  could. 

Respectfully  submitted  with  report. 

Geo.  W.  Rice, 
Sergeant,  Sigiuil  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 


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11 


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264  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Appendix  No.  73. — Z)/-.  /Irr^'j  medical  report  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor. 

Fort  Concer,  Grinnki.l  Land,  April  2oih,  1883. 
Sir;  I  have  the  honor  to  report  to  you  on  the  health  of  the  men  during  the  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor. 
The  sanitary  state  has  been  good,  and  the  party  returned  without  accidents. 

The  powers  of  endurance  to  cold  and  fatigue  have  sensibly  decreased,  even  in  the  best  men  of  our  party. 
The  detachment  has  moved  with  remarkable  zeal,  energy,  and  discipline,  and  Sergt.  Rice  has  directed 
his  work  with  the  greatest  of  skill. 

I  will  mention  Pvt.  Schneider,  driver  of  my  sledge,  whose  exertions  and  labor  are  very  creditable. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant, 

Octave  Paw, 
A.  A.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 
To  the  C0M.MANDING  Officer. 


Appendix  No.  74. — Orders  for  Sergeant  Jewell  f^r  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  May  3,  1883. 

Sergeant: — You  are  hereby  directed  to  proceed  to  Cape  Beechey,  Robeson  Channel,  in  order  to 
make  tidal  observations  at  that  point. 

The  observations  will  cover  nine  successive  tides,  and  you  will  leave  this  station  at  such  time  on  May 
6  as  will  enable  you  to  observe  the  first  low  tide  of  May  7,  which  is  expected  about  10.50  a.  m.  (Wash- 
ington mean  time). 

The  following  tidal  re"  .'.:^<rs  will  be  made: 

1.  On  the  even  hour  of  Washington  mean  time. 

2.  Each  even  minute  (W.  M.  T.)  for  twenty  minutes  at  one  toiir,  commencing  each  set  exactly  six 
hours  after  the  preceding  high  or  low  water.  In  case  the  tide  has  not  changed  appreciably  at  the  end  of 
twenty  minutes  the  readings  will  be  continued  until  such  ])hase  has  been  noted. 

In  case  Medusa  or  Annelida  are  seen  they  will  be  carefully  observed,  if  not  captured,  to  enable  you  to 
identify  them  subsequently. 

Great  care  will  be  taken  to  injure  the  security  of  the  gauge  to  that  part  of  the  ice-foot  which  is  immov- 
ably attached  to  the  shore.  A  reference  point  should  be  established  so  as  to  enable  the  gauge  to  be  replaced 
in  case  of  accident. 

You  will  be  accompanied  by  Sergeant  Connell,  and  Private  Schneider  with  his  dog  team.  Sergeant 
Connell,  when  not  needed,  will  occupy  his  time  in  hunting.  Private  Schneider  will  assist  you  in  making 
the  readings. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
J'irst  Lieutenant,  Fifth  dwahy,  A.  S.  0.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 

Sergeant  W.  S.  Jewell, 

Signal  Sen-iie,  U.  S.  Army. 


Appendix  No.  75. — Report  of  Sergeant  Jewell  on  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  May  12,  1883. 

Kir: — I  have  the  honor  to  report  that,  in  compliance  with  your  orders  of  May  3,  I  left  this  station  at 
6.45  p.  m.,  May  6,  f(  r  Caj)e  Heechey,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  tidal  observations  at  that  point. 

I  was  accompanied  by  Ssrgeant  Connell  and  Private  Schneider.  We  arrived  at  our  destin.ation  at  2.20 
a,  m..  May  7,  and  selecting  what  appeared  to  be  a  suitable  tidal  crack,  began  the  tidal  hole,  but,  after  going 
down  about  four  feet  f  1.2'"],  I  abandoned  it  and  began  another  further  from  shore.  After  sinking  this  to  a 
depth  of  about  five  feet  [1.5'"]  the  water  began  to  percolate  through  the  ice,  and  before  we  could  get  low 
enough  had  become  so  deep  that  it  was  impossible  to  work.  I  then  selected  another  site,  and  after  follow- 
ing the  crack  down  about  seven  feet  [2"'],  found  water  that  extended  from  one  side  of  the  tidal  hole,  which 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


265 


we  sank  below  tht  water-level  at  low  tide,  and  then  allowed  it  to  flow  in.  The  permanent  gauge  was  com- 
pleted aboui  ^.14  p.  n.  The  high  tide  at  10.54  a.  m.  having  been  taken  on  a  temporary  gauge  erected  for 
that  purpose. 

The  gauge  was  secured  to  a  shelf  projecting  from  a  grounded  fl(n'  berg,  beinj;  lashed  to  a  board  that 
was  solidly  spiked  into  the  ice.  The  position  was  frecjuently  verified  by  two  fixed  points  bearing  on  the 
gauge,  and  no  change  could  be  detected.  I  continued  the  observations  until  after  the  p.  m.  low  tide  of  tin 
9th,  and  then  started  to  return,  leaving  there  at  7  p.  m.  Stoppii,,  it  depot  ]{  and  pii  king  up  what  remained 
of  the  cache,  excepting  the  tent,  sleeping-bag,  and  one  blanket,  arrived  at  Fort  Congei  at  2.30  a.  m., 
May  10. 

I  found  upon  making  a  comparison  of  my  watch,  that  it  had  lost  15  minutes,  caused,  doubtless,  by  the 
minute  hand  getting  loose  and  moving  back.  1  think  this  happened  during  the  forenoon  of  the  8th,  as  after 
that  time  I  noticed  the  minute  and  second  hands  did  not  agree. 

Private  Schneider  a.  sisted  me  in  making  the  observations,  and  Sergeant  Council,  in  accordance  with 
your  instructions,  spent  his  time  in  hunting,  only  succeeding  in  getting  one  hare. 

Enclosed*  you  will  find  a  report  of  tidal  and  meteorological  observations.  The  latter  having  been 
taken  hourly. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

W.  S.  Jkwell, 
Serf;eant,  Signa/  Corps,  U,  S.  A. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  CiREELV, 

Ftrsl  LieuUnant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  ami  Assistant, 

Commanding  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  76. — O/ders  for  Sergeant  Gardiner  f  r  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Baird. 

Fort  Con-(;er,  Grtnnei.l  Land,  May  3,  1883. 

Sergeant  :  You  are  hereby  directed  to  proceed  to  Cape  Baird,  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  in  order  to  make 
tidal  observations  at  that  point. 

Tue  observations  will  cover  nine  successive  tides,  and  you  will  leave  this  station  at  such  time  on  May  6 
as  V  ill  enable  you  to  observe  the  first  low  tide  of  May  7,  which  is  expected  about  10.50  a.  m.  (Washington 
mean  time). 

The  following  tidal  readings  will  be  made : 

1.  On  the  even  hour  of  Washington  mean  time. 

2.  Each  even  minute  (W.  M.  T.)  for  20  minutes  at  one  tour,  commencing  each  set  exactly  six  hours 
after  the  preceding  high  or  low  water. 

In  case  the  tide  nas  not  changed  appreciably  at  the  end  of  the  twenty  minutes,  the  readings  will  be 
continued  until  such  phase  has  been  noted. 

In  case  Medusa  or  Annalidte  are  seen,  they  will  be  carefully  observed,  if  not  captured,  to  enable  you  to 
identify  them  subsequently. 

Great  car  .vill  be  taken  to  insure  the  security  of  the  gauge  to  that  part  ot  the  ice-foot  whicii  is  immov- 
ably attached  to  the  shore.  A  reference  point  should  be  established,  so  as  to  enable  the  gauge  to  be 
replaced  in  case  of  accident.  You  will  be  accompanied  by  Gergei\nt  Elison  and  Eskimo  Jens  Edward,  with 
his  dog-team.     The  team  will  be  sent  back  on  Monday  and  will  return  for  you  on  Tuesday. 

A.  W.  Greei.v, 
First  Lieutenant,  F'ijt/i  C.walry,  A,  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Ccmmanding. 
Sergeant  H.  S.  Gardiner, 

Signal  Sriviie,  U,  S,  Artny. 


•The  meteorological  observations  are  to  be  found  printed  uvAkt /leU  oljservations  in  Appendix  No.  138;  the  tidal  obser- 
vations in  Appendix  No.  140. 


-   { 
'              M 

!  i  • 

M 
■  i' 

li 


! 


260 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN^  BAY  EXPEDlTIOIf. 


Appendix  No.  77.  —  Orders  for  Sergeant  Israel  for  astronomical  observations  at  Cape  Baird. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnei.l  Land,  May  7,  1883. 
Sergeant:  You  will  proceed  by  dog-sledge  to-night  to  Cape  Baird  for  the  purpose  of  determining  tht 
latitude  and  longitude  of  that  point. 

On  your  return  a  brief  report,  in  which  are  to  be  embodied  your  observations,  will  be  made. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A,  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commandin)^  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 
Observer,  Sergeant  Edward  Israel, 
Signal  Semice,  U.  S.  Army, 

Astronomer,  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  78. — Report  of  Sergeant  Israel  on  observations  ordered  in  Appendix  No.  yj. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  Tuesday,  May  15,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report  on  the  trip  to  Cape  Baird  and  observations  made 
there  by  me,  in  compliance  with  your  order  of  the  7th. 

I  left  the  station,  with  Jens  Edward  and  dog-sledge,  at  11.35  P-  "^-j  Monday,  May  7,  taking  with  me 
the  English  sextant,  four  boxes  of  provisions,  and  one  of  ammunition.  I  further  added  a  barrel  of  hard 
bread  to  my  load  at  the  cache  on  the  flue.  Arrived  at  the  tidal  station  iiear  Cape  Baird  at  4.45  a.  m..  May 
8,  and  took  the  foUotving  observations  during  the  day: 

(For  longitude:  Equal  altitudes  of  sun.) 


Cover. 

I.imb. 

Time  a.m. 

2  ait.  0. 

Time  p.m. 

To 

Index  corrections. 

h.  m.    s. 

0      / 

h.   m.    s. 

h.   m.    s. 

On  arc.       Off  arc. 

1)            © 

5  >7  55 

35  "o 

4  57  38 

[li  07  46.5]  Rejected. 

I) 

0 

19  OS 

'5 

56  40 

525 

D 

0 

20  14 

20 

55  26 

50.0 

13 

0 

21  22 

25 

54  20 

Si-o 

(•26' 30''     37' 00" 

D 

0 

22  29 

30 

53  '7 

53- 0 

a.m.-   26' CO"    36' 10" 

D 

0 
0 

23  35 

35 

52  "1 

54-5 

-IS'  10" 

R 

25  44 

34  40 

49  53 

48.5 

'26' 20'/    36' 30" 

R 

Q 

26  40 

45 

48  5.) 

52.5 

p.m.      26' 20"     36' 30" 

R 

0 

27  50 

50 

47  55 

52.5 

+5'  05" 

R 

0 

2S  S4 

55 

46  49 

5«5 

R 

0 

30  10 

35  00 

45  37 

53-5 

R 

Q 

3'  IS 

05 

44  25 

50.0 
II  07  51. 8-1-0.36 

. 

Equation  of  equ 
t'orrection  for  _ 
Kq.  of  time 

il  altitudes 

-  I  44-5 

—0  00.  s 

1  3  40-  I 

1 1  09  46. 9 

Watch  time  of  n 

oon  . 

■ 

Ah=  — 2.".     Harometer,  a.  m.,  30.62;  p.  m.,  30.61.     Thermometer,  a.  m.,  -f  10.5° ;  p.  m.,  -|-lo.o°. 
The  errors  of  the  watch  on  Fort  Conger  time,  based  upon  similar  sets  of  equal  altitudes,  are: 

h.     m.        8.  8. 

Watch  slow  on  Fort  Conger,  May  6 6    48    59.3^0.26 

Watch  slow  on  Fort  Conger,  May  9  .   1..     6    49    28.0-l-0.31 


Watch  .slow  on  Fort  Conger,  May  8,  noon 49     18. a 

Watch  slow  on  Cape  Baird,  May  8,  noon S"     '3-I 

Longitude  of  tidal  st.itlon o'     54.9"  east  of  Fort  Conger. 

Extreme  point  of  cape,  600  ya  ds  [549""],  east  of  tidal  station 2.  6"  east  of  tiilal  stption. 

Cape  Baird o'    57.5"  east  of  Fort  Conger. 


THR  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


267 


(For  latitude :  C'rcum-mcridian  altitudes  of  sun.) 


Combination    to 

Combination    to   eliminate 

Cover. 

Limb. 

Time. 

2  alt.  ©. 

/. 

Am. 

Q           f         ff 

eliminate  faulty 
diameter. 

error  of  cover  and  gradual 
change  in  index  correction. 

h.    m.    8. 

0      II     1 

m.     8. 

n 

// 

D 

Q 

lo  57  09 

5°  35  20 

—  10     4 

3« 

64  25  84 

f4i.o 

D 

Q 

58  40 

35  30 

8  33 

22 

5! 

Cover  D  J  ^^"  5 

D 

CJ 

II  01  59 

s«  40  30 

5  '4 

08 

28 

^    ""     31.0 

D 

GJ 

03  II 

40  so 

4  02 

OS 

«9 

■       I29.S 

64°  25'  26.8" 

D 

CJ 

04  36 

40  50 

2  37 

02 

22 

f  150 

26.2 

D 

ra 

06  08 

41  00 

I  05 

00 

«9 

Cover  R  i  ^^'^ 

n.9 

D 

Q 

07   II 

50  36  50 

—0  02 

00 

4>^ 

i_over  n.  <   ^^^ 

22.3 

D 

Q 

08  12 

36  so 

-jo  59 

00 

40 

1.12.5 

R 

a 

09  36 

37  30 

2  23 

02 

18 

64°  25'  24.  5"±o.9" 

R 
R 

Q 

0 

10  40 

11  59 

37  20 
SI  41  r-o 

4  46 

04 
07 

21 
12 

v=                 00.4 
#=.-      17  07  02.8 

R 

*CJ 

13  J8 

41  00 

6  05 

II 

08 

^=  81°  32'  27.7"io.9" 

R 

*0 

14  43 

40  50 

7  35 

18 

06 

R 

•0 

16  16 

40  40 

9  03 

25 

04 

R 

Q 

17  17 

SO  36  30 

10  04 

3« 

19 

K 

0 

19  25 

35  5° 

12  12 

46 

24 

*  Recorded  on  lower  limb  by  clerical  error. 
Index  correction. 


Before. 

On  arc.       Off  ar>.. 

26'  40"     37'  !0" 

2(/  30"     37'  lu" 

+5'  18" 


After. 

On  »rc.        Off  arc. 

27'  30"     36'  00" 

27'  30"     36'  10" 

'  +4''  18" 

Mean,  +4'  48" 


Barometer,  30.57;  thermometer,  -f  5.0°. 


The  distance  between  Fort  Conger  and  Cape  Baird  is  therefore  12.4'. 

On  the  gth  I  assisted  in  taking  the  tidal  and  meteorological  observations.     Returned  to  Fort  Conger 
with  Sergeant  Gardiner  and  party  at  4.35  p.  m. 

I  remain,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Edward  Israel, 
Sergeant,  Sif^nal  Corps,  U.  S.  Army, 

Astronomer  to  the  Expedition, 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition, 


if     I 


268 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EX  rf:iDITION. 


Appkndix  No.  79. — Report  of  Sergeant  Gardiner  on  tidal  and  ice  observations  at  Cape  Baird. 

Fdrt  Congkr,  Grinneii.  Land,  May  14,  1883. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  inclose  herewith  Record  of  Tidal  and  Meteorological  Observations,*  made  at 
Cape  Baird,  (Irinnell  Land,  from  May  7  to  9,  inclusive.     Also  to  make  the  following  report: 

1  left  Fort  Conger  at  7  p.  m.  of  May  6,  1883,  accompanied  by  Sergeant  Elison  and  Jens  Edward  with  , 
dog-team  and  sledge.     At  the  cache  on  the  road  to  Cape  Baird  I  picked  up  one  barrel  of  hard  bread,  which 
I  carried  to  Cape  Baird  and  cached  together  with  five  cans  of  pemniican,  one  box  of  corned  beef,  and  one 
box  of  baked  beans,  which  1  carried  from  Fort  Conger. 

I  arrived  at  Cape  Baird  at  12.30  a.  ni.  of  7th  instant.  We  found  a  strong  gale  of  wind  blowing,  which 
prevented  work  until  2  a.  m.  Having  made  camp  about  600  yards  [549'"!  inside  of  Cape  Baird,  we  imme- 
tliately  commenced  fitting  up  the  tide-gauge.  The  gauge  was  finished  at  6.45  a.  m.,  and  commenced 
observations  at  7  a.  m.  The  gauge  was  located  on  the  seaward  side  of  a  large  floe-berg,  which  remained 
stationary  at  all  times.     At  i  p.  m.  Jens  Edward  returned  with  the  dog-team  to  Fort  Conger. 

Sergeant  Israel,  with  Jens  and  dog-team  with  supplies  for  the  cache  at  this  place,  arrived  at  5  a.  m.,  8th 
instant.     During  the  day  Sergeant  Israel  took  observations  for  latitude  and  longitude. 

At  2.30  p.  m.  I  attempted  to  communicate  with  Fort  Conger  by  heliographic  signals,  but  was  unsuc- 
cessful. At  1 1  p.  m.,  May  8,  Sergeant  Elison  went  to  Cape  Lieber  to  examine  condition  of  straits  to  the 
southward.     He  returned  at  6  a.  m.  of  9th  instant,  and  reported  the  channel  closed  and  no  water  in  sight. 

In  regard  to  the  stratification  of  floe-bergs,  I  observed  eleven  bergs  in  which  strata  were  clearly  defined. 
These  bergs  consisted  of  wide  layers  or  strata  of  clear  or  semi-opacjue  ice,  separated  one  from  the  other  by 
smaller  layers,  the  latter  being  also  divided  into  smaller  layers  or  strata  of  clear  ice  or  snow  laid  alternately. 
The  largest  strata  were  from  6  to  10  feet  [1.8  to  3'"]  thick;  the  smallest  layers  were  from  2  to  4  inches 
[51  to  102"""]  in  thickness,  and  five  or  six  of  these  smallest  layers  comprised  one  of  those  which  divided  the 
largest  strata.     No  medusa2  or  annelidie  were  observed. 

At  I  p.  m.  of  9th  instant,  having  comjileted  the  series  of  observations  .according  to  your  instructions 
dated  Fort  Conger,  May  3,  1883, 1  closed  the  station  and  started  for  Fort  Conger,  where  I  arrived  at  5  p.  m. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

H.  S.  Gardiner, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  Army. 

To  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

First  Lieut.,  Fifth  Car.,  U.  S,  A.,  Commanding  Polar  Expedition, 


i 


Appendix  No,   80. — Report  of  Sergeant  feivell  on  paleocrystic  ice. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yune  9,  1882. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor,  in  compliance  with  your  instructions  for  me  to  proceed  to  Distant  Cape  and 
procure  samples  of  diffeient  strata  of-,  paleocrystic  floe-berg  grounded  at  that  point,  to  report  as  follows: 

Upon  my  arrival,  I,  with  the  assistance  of  Private  Frederick,  found  tne  berg  to  face  to  the  SW.  26  feet 
[7.9""],  to  the  S.  and  SE.  24^^  feet  17.4."].  I-  35  fi^i^t  [10.7'"],  and  then  rounding  from  E.  to  NW.  i8i/^  feet 
[5.6'"],  and  NW.  48  feet  [14.6"'].  The  berg  was  2?  'eet  [8.5"']  in  height  [above  the  sea  or  main  floe|,  sloping 
gradually  from  near  the  western  side  of  it  until  it  reached  the  ice-foot  at  its  eastern  extremity.  The  samples 
were  procured  from  the  NW.  side  and  were  taken  from  over  three  feet  [about  i"']  from  the  inside  of  the  berg, 
so  as  to  get  beyond  the  atmospheric  influence  from  without. 

The  specimen  in  vial  No  r  was  procured  3^]  feet  [i.i'"]  from  the  top,  and  5^  feet  [1.6'"]  from  side; 
color  dark  blue. 

No.  2,. three  feet  [-9'"]  from  side  in  a  stratum  ?.(>  inches  [.66"'J  in  breadth;  color  a  shade  lighter 
than  No.  i. 

No.  3,  forty-two  inches  [1.06'"]  from  side.     Strata  24  inches  [.6"'|;  color  same  as  No.  2. 

No.  4,  three  feet  [.91'"]  from  side.     Strata  12  inches  (.3'"];  color  same  as  No,  2. 

*  The  meteorological  observations  are  to  be  found  printed  yxnAtx  field  observations,  Appendix  138;  the  tidal  observations 
in  Appendix  140. 


iTAVl6NARY 


Tide-gauge,  Cace  Baird. 

a.  Water. 

h.  (iauge-rod. 

c.  Support  fastened  to  large  berg. 


in 


I 


^**«««a. 


TFIE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


269 


No,  5,  three  feet  [.gi""]  from  side.    Strata  22  inches  [.56"'!;  color  same  as  No.  2. 
No.  6,  three  feet  [.91'"]  from  side.    Strata  18  inches  [.46"'] ;  color  shade  lighter  than  No.  2. 
No.  7,  three  feet  [.91"']  from  side.     Strata  15  inches  [.38'"! ,  color  same  as  No.  2. 
No.  8  w.as  taken  below  the  last  stratum  and  about  3  feet  [.91"']  from  the  ice  foot;  color  same  as  No.  2. 
'I'he  strata  were  well  defined  on  the  surface,  and  were  quite  discernible  three  feet  [.91"'!  from  the  outside. 
The  berg  appears  to  be  grounded.    The  base  measurements  were  made  about  3  feet  [.91"']  above  the 
base;  /.  e.,  main  floe. 


Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Grkelv, 

First  Lieiitinant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  U.  S.  A. 


W.  S.  Jewell, 
Sergeant,  Signa/  Corps,  U.  S.  A, 


S.  O.  and  Assistant, 
Commanding  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  81. — Orders  to  Scrj^eant  Jewell  for  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey. 

r'ORT  CoNdKK,  CiRINNKI.I,  LaNI),  Miiy   1 9,   1 883. 

Sergeant:  You  will  proceed  on  Monday,  May  21,  with  Private  Schneider  and  do^-slcdge  to  Caps 
Beechey,  for  the  purpose  of  making  special  tidal  reailings  at  that  point. 

You  will  determine  the  time  of  nine  high  and  low  waters,  beginning  with  that  expected  about  5.45  p.  m., 
Washington  mean  time.  May  21. 

The  gauge  will  be  read  on  the  even  horr  (W.  M.  T.),  at  which  time  the  meteorological  observation 
will  also  be  made. 

Readings  on  the  even  minute  (VV.  M.  T.)  will  be  made  for  not  less  than  20  minutes  around  each  iiigh 
and  low  water. 

Such  assistance  as  can  be  rendered  without  interfering  with  your  observations  will  be  given  Sergeant 
Rice,  the  ])hotographer  of  the  expedition,  who  will  proceed  to  Beechey  with  you. 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.,  irnd  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 
Sergt.  W.  S.  Jewell, 

Signal  Semite,  U,  S.  Army. 


Appendix  No.  82. — Report  of  Sergeant  Jewell  on  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey. 

Fort  Conckr,  Grinnell  Land,  May  25,  1883. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  forward  herewith  a  report  of  observations*  taken  at  Cape  Beechey,  in  ccjni- 
pUance  with  your  orders  of  the  19th  instant. 

I  left  Fort  Conger  with  dog-team  at  8.10  a.  n.  of  the  21st,  accompanied  by  Sergeant  Rice,  the  expedi- 
tion photographer,  and  Private  Schneider.  Owing  to  the  recent  storms  the  traveling  was  very  bad,  and 
slow  progress  was  made  through  the  deep  snow.  A  short  distance  beyond  Distant  Cape  we  encountered 
large  cracks  in  the  ice,  which  necessitated  our  taking  to  the  ice-foot  around  Water-course  Bay.  These  cracks 
are  the  results  of  tl'.e  strong  current  tha't  flows  around  the  cape.  Small  pools  of  water  were  encountered 
farther  up  the  bay  and  also  on  St.  Patrick  Bay.  But  no  signs  of  a  general  disruption  were  seen  except 
water-clouds  visible  in  the  north  from  Cape  Beechey.     We  arrived  at  our  destination  at  4.35  a.  m. 

7'idal  oliseirations, — As  soon  as  the  hole,  used  in  taking  our  former  series  of  observations  at  this  place, 
was  cleared  d  the  accumulated  snow  and  slush,  the  gauge  was  got  into  position  and  observations  began,  as 
shown  by  accompanying  report.     They  were  continued  until  the  high  tide  of  11.50  p.  m..  May  24. 

Meteorological  observations  t  were  taken  each  hour  as  per  instructions,  except  when  the  minute  tidal 
reading  interfered. 


*The  tidal  observations  are  to  be  found  printed  in  Appendix  No.  140. 

I  The  meteorological  observations  are  to  be  found  printed  wnAetJiM  observations  in  Appendix  No.  138. 


i 


i'l' 


W 


1*1 


270 


TUE  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  EXI'EDITION. 


I  also  took  double  altitudes  of  the  sun  for  time,  which  showed  my  station  to  be  7™  22.3»  east  of  Fort 
Conger,  and  a  circummeridian  altitude  for  latitude,  placing  nic  in  latitude  81°  52'  29.1"  north.     Inclosed 
you  will  find  the  results  as  computeil  by  Sergeant  Edward  Israel,  astronomer  of  the  expedition. 
A  sounding  in  the  tidal  hole  showed  a  depth  of  44  feet  [13.4'"]  high  tide,  with  gravel  bottom. 
We  started  for  home  station  at  12.15  a.  "'■  -4''i>  "arriving  at  Fort  Conger  at  6.40  a.  m. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

W.  S.  Jewell, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Grkklv, 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  anil  Assistant,  Commanding  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  83. — Sergeant  BrainarcTs  report  on  journey  to  Cape  Cracroft. 

Fort  Congkr,  Gkinneli,  Lanh,  yune  5,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that  in  compliance  with  verbal  instructions  received  from  you  on  the 
evening  of  May  28,  1883,  I  left  the  station  at  1 2. 1 5  a.  m.  the  day  following,  accompanied  by  Sergeant  H.  S. 
Oai  diner,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A.,  and  Eskimo  driver  Frederik  Christiansen,  with  dog-team  and  provisions 
for  five  days,  for  the  pu.pose  of  taking  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Cracroft,  and  to  make  a  collection  of  the 
fossils  which  you  last  August  discovered  to  abound  in  the  cliffs  at  that  point. 

To  Cape  Baird  the  traveling  was  better  than  we  had  reason  to  expect  after  the  recent  snow-storm  of 
long  duration.  The  road  was  in  all  places  visible  and  quite  hard,  the  last  snow  which  covered  it  to  a  depth 
of  4  inches  [102"""]  so  soft  that  our  progress  was  scarcely  impeded.  Halted  for  a  few  minutes  t  the  depot 
to  get  a  sleeping-bag  and  other  articles  to  complete  our  equipment  and  then  proceeded,  keeping  well  out 
in  rounding  Cape  Baird  to  avoid  the  heavy  masses  of  ice  which  had  accumulated  near  the  shore  in  its 
vicinity.  A  crack  in  the  ice  6  or  7  feet  [about  2'"]  wide  was  observed  to  extend  from  the  cape  northwaid 
for  a  distance  of  400  yards  [366"'],  The  movement  was  evidently  recent  judging  from  the  attenuated  ice  at 
its  borders.  From  this  place  the  enow  was  so  deep  and  soft  that  we  frequently  sank  to  our  waist  and  the 
sledge  to  its  slats.  We  were  prevented  from  wearing  snow-shoes  by  the  rubble-ice,  which  was  of  the  worst 
possible  character  for  sledging.  Occasionally,  however,  small  floes  of  ancient  ice  were  met  with,  which 
proved  of  incalculable  benefit,  and  after  our  hard  struggle  through  the  snow  were  always  hailed  with  delight. 

Water  several  inches  in  depth,  which  had  been  forced  up  through  the  fissures  in  the  ice,  was  frequently 
found  in  ilepressions  of  the  floe;  more  particularly  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  heavy  ice,  which,  if  possible, 
was  always  avoided.  In  some  instances  the  presence  of  the  pools  was  probably  due  to  the  melting  of  the 
snow.  There  was  often  no  distinguishing  feature  in  these  places,  and  we  would  have  no  intimation  of  their 
proximity  until  we  had  broken  through  the  slight  covering  of  snow  and  found  the  chilling  water  pouring 
over  our  boot  tops.  Camped  at  8.30  a.  m.  2  miles  north  of  Cape  Lieber,  having  traveled  22  miles;  made 
good  18.  Started  again  at  6  p.  m.,  and  for  the  first  two  hours  found  the  traveling  unchanged  from  the 
latter  part  of  our  first  march,  except  that  water  pools  became  more  numerous  as  we  approached  opposite 
to  Cape  Lieber.  An  old  floe  of  considerable  extent  furnished  us  with  excellent  traveling  for  some  time; 
and  from  this  we  found  the  ice  to  be  of  an  entirely  different  character,  being  new  and  evidently  formed  at 
a  late  period  last  winter;  its  surface  perfectly  smooth  and,  except  an  occasional  floe-berg  stranded  near  the 
shore,  entirely  free  of  heavy  ice.  Reached  Cape  Cracroft  at  10  p.  m.,  and  in  seven  minutes  had  the  gauge  in 
position  and  a  reading  taken,  a  tidal  crack  3  feet  [.9"']  wide  rendered  chopping  unnecessary,  Traveled  12 
miles ;  made  good  10.  Our  progress  during  the  last  two  hours  of  travel  had  been  much  retarded  by  a  high 
southerly  wind. 

During  the  30th  and  31st  we  were  employed  on  the  tides,  only  high  and  low  water  being  observed. 
In  order  to  secure  the  most  satisfactory  results  we  began  by  taking  minute  readings  half  an  hour  before,  and 
continued  taking  them  for  nearly  half  an  hour  after  the  change  in  the  tide.  But  this  method  was  soon 
discontinued  and  only  each  change  of  o.i  inch  [2.54"""]  was  recorded.  A  high  wind,  often  accompanied  by 
driving  snow,  prevailed  during  our  stay  at  the  cape.  At  times  it  was  very  violent,  the  velocity  estimated 
at  30  to  35  miles  per  hour  [13  to  15'"  per  second]. 


THE  LADY  FRAXKMN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


271 


> 


On  the  31st  I  sent  Frederik  Christiansen  down  the  coast  for  the  purpose  of  hunting.  He  reported 
on  his  return  having  entered  the  valley  south  of  Cape  Cracroft,  where  he  killed  a  hare  and  saw  tracks  of  two 
musk-oxen  which  had  visited  the  excellent  grazing  grounds  at  the  coast  and  then  returned  into  the  interior. 
I  questioned  him  closely  with  reference  to  the  practicability  of  the  valley  for  sledging,  with  a  view  of 
returning  by  that  route  to  look  for  the  musk-oxen.  He  did  not  consider  the  valley  feasible,  owing  to  a 
rocky  creek  bed  and  the  scarcity  of  miow.  From  an  elevated  position  could  discern  no  open  water  to  the 
southward.  He  saw  four  small  seals  during  his  absence,  but  owing  to  the  smooth  surface  of  the  floe  he 
could  not  approach  near  enough  for  a  shot.  From  an  elevation  of  500  feet  [152'"]  I  could  ('etect  no  material 
change  in  the  nature  of  the  ice  to  the  east  or  south. 

Sounding  taken  in  tidal  crack  at  the  gauge,  which  gave  us  40  feet  [12"']  of  water  and  a  rock  bottom. 
Juiiging  from  the  movement  of  the  line  at  this  stage  of  the  tide  (ebb),  it  would  seem  to  indicate  a  strong  set 
of  the  current  to  the  northward. 

During  occasional  lulls  in  the  storm  and  the  intervals  between  observations,  we  made  a  collection  of 
fossils,  wliich  comprised  several  specimens  of  each  of  the  diflerent  species  observed  by  us. 

On  the  morning  of  June  i  we  returned  to  Cape  Baird,  having  completed  the  series  of  nine  observations 
at  I  a.  m.  of  that  date.  Several  dangerous-looking  cracks  in  the  ice,  which  we  had  noticed  on  the  outward 
trip,  extending  from  the  ice-foot  in  the  direction  of  the  Greenland  coast,  had  visibly  increased  in  width.  I 
think  an  early  disruption  of  the  ice  in  Kennedy  Channel  may  be  exjiected  this  season.  Off  Cajjc  l.ieber 
we  fell  into  a  treacherous  fissure,  by  the  giving  way  of  a  thin  d.ift  which  concciled  it  from  our  view,  and 
narrowly  escaped  a  ducking  by  getting  quickly  on  the  floating  sledge  and  leaping  to  the  firm  ice.  Our 
clothing,  however,  was  thoroughly  saturated  above  our  knees  and  our  boots  filled  with  water. 

I  decided  to  remain  at  the  Cape  Baird  depot  for  a  day  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  but  our  eflbrts  were 
not  crowned  with  much  success,  although  we  hunted  indefatigably.  Only  one  hare  was  shot ;  another  hare,  a 
seal,  ptarmigan,  and  pair  of  turnstones  were  all  the  game  seen.  The  tracks  of  one  fox  only  were  seen.  'i"he 
cliffs  east  of  the  tent  I  found  to  contain  several  species  of  fossils,  a  few  of  which  are  in  our  collection. 

While  hunting  along  the  shore  of  Archer  Fiord,  about  4  miles  southwest  of  Cape  Baird,  I  ascended  the 
first  of  a  series  of  low  receding  hills,  the  summit  of  which  was  about  800  feet  (244"'|  above  and  one-half 
mile  [804 '"J  from  the  fiord.  Its  formation  was  of  black  sandstone,  very  brittle,  and  easily  crumbled  between 
the  fingers.  By  attrition  of  the  wind  and  weather  the  rocks  had  been  reduced  to  a  fine  sand,  through  which 
stratified  ridges,  of  the  same  general  character,  occasionally  protruded  for  a  few  inches. 

Near  the  summit  of  the  hill  I  discovered  the  trunk  of  a  petrified  tree,  about  7  feet  [2"'J  in  length  and  5 
inches  [i27n>"']  in  diameter.  It  had  broken  into  sections  of  from  4  to  10  inches  each  [102  to  254"""],  but  no 
piece  was  missing  from  its  place.  The  diameter  of  the  piece  was  much  lessened  by  the  loss  of  successive 
layers  under  action  of  the  elements.  It  originally  must  have  been  at  least  10  inches  [254"""].  A  section  of 
this  tree  will  be  found  in  the  collection,  marked  No.  i.  Further  search  revealed  to  me  the  existence  of  eleven 
trees  in  the  same  state  of  petrifaction  within  the  limits  of  100  yards  fgi"']  square.  The  trunks  of  several  of 
these  trees  were  embedded  in  the  sandy  soil,  and  portions  varying  from  i  to  7  feet  [.3  to  2"'J  protruded  above 
the  surface.  Not  having  any  instrument  with  which  I  could  make  an  excavation,  I  had  no  means  of  ascer- 
taining the  length  of  the  bi-ried  portion.  In  one  instance,  however,  it  must  have  been  considerable  if  the 
length  was  commensurate  with  the  diameter.  Only  3  feet  [.9'"]  of  the  body  was  exposed  above  the  surface, 
and  the  diameter  was  about  y  by  16  inches  [229  by  406'"'"],  its  end  being  of  an  oval  form,  and  bore  evidence 
of  having  been  subjected  to  considerable  pressure.  This  was  the  largest  trunk  seen,  and  was  of  a  firmer 
structure  than  any  of  the  others.  The  next  in  size  was  about  1 2  inches  [305"™  |  in  diameter,  of  a  very  friable 
and  britde  nature.  Of  this  I  brought  away  a  small  specimen  (No.  2).  I  also  brought  a  specimen  of  sand- 
stone (No.  3),  which  exhibits  the  general  formation  of  the  hill;  and  other  similar  pieces  of  rock  (package 
No.  4)  bear  impression  of  fossil  twigs,  leaves,  and  stems. 

The  entire  surface  of  the  hill  was  strewed  about  with  small  fragments  of  the  petrifactions,  many  of  which 
were  crystallized.  I  subsequently  discovered  other  specimens  of  fossil  wood  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs,  2  miles 
from  Baird,  but,  being  already  heavily  loaded  with  specimens,  I  did  not  feel  equal  to  the  task  of  climbing  a 
thousand  feet  [305'"]  up  the  steep  incline  to  discover  their  origin. 

Starting  at  i  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  May  3,  we  reached  this  station  at  4.30  a.  m.  same  date.  Only 
TYz  hours  were  occupied  in  making  the  return  trip  from  Cape  Cracroft,  this  being  4>^  hours  less  than  the 


272 


THE  LADY  FRANKLFN  J»AY  EXPKDmON. 


time  consumed  in  making  the  outward  trip.     The  difference  .in  time  was  due  to  the  improvement  in -the 
traveling  made  by  the  storm  whiih  prevailed  during  our  stay  at  Cape  Cracroft. 

Sergeant  (lardiner  rendered  me  every  .assistance  in  his  power,  and  Christiansen  fully  sustaineil  his  previous 
reputation  as  an  energetic  and  indefatigable  driver. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant,  * 

U.  I-.  Brainari), 
-  SfrgeaiU,  G,  S,,  U.  S.  Army. 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Creei.v, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S,  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding  Expedition. 


Appenpix  No.  84. — Scrtrcaut  Gardiner'' s  report  on  journey  to  Cape  Cracrofl, 

Fort  Coniskr,  Grin.nkii,  Land,  yune  5,  1883. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  make  the  following  report  in  regard  to  si)ecimens  of  fossils  collected  while  at 
Cape  Cracroft,  Grinnell  Land,  during  the  30th  anil  31st  days  of  May,  1883; 

All  of  the  specimens  were  found  in  a  bed  of  black  fragmental  rock,  which,  when  struck  with  the  hammer, 
broke  into  rough  slabs  or  sometimes  lumps.  It  was  of  exceedingly  f.ne  grain  and  could  not  be  examined 
thoroughly  without  the  aid  of  a  microscope.  The  bed  was  at  the  base  of  the  clitis  extending  along  the 
sea  level.     It  was  traversed  vertically  by  narrow  seams  of  (juartz. 

The  cliffs  were  2,000  feet  [6io'"J  or  over  in  height  and  very  bold,  showing  the  stratification  in  long 
waves  though  sometimes  much  contorted  and  bent  at  sharp  turns.  It  appeared  to  be  composed  of  numerous 
layers  of  sandstone  many  feet  in  thickness,  interspersed  near  the  top  by  some  lighter  bands  of  rock. 

With  the  aid  of  Dana's  Manual  of  Geology  I  have  been  able  to  approximately  determine  most  of  the 
iossils  as  belonging  to  the  Ui)|)er  and  Lower  Silurian  Periods, 

Specimen  No.  2  is  similar  to  F'ig.  362,  page  202,  Dana's  Geology.     The  specimen  was  broken  during 

transjwrtation.     When  complete  it  measured  7  inches  [178"""]  in  length  and  3  inches  [76 |  in  width.     It 

is  of  a  white  substance  about  1^4   inches  [44 ]  in  width,  forming  a  core   from  which  jirojccts  a  number  of 

spines  extending  to  the  edge  where  they  are  bounded  by  a  very  narrow  edge  or  rim  of  white.    There  is  a 
small  indentation  in  top. 

Specimen  No.  3  is  apparently  similar  to  M.  beliicihcta.  Fig.  346,  page  201.  It  is  a  portion  of  a  conical 
shell.  When  complete  the  shell  was  probably  5  or  6  inches  [127  or  152'""']  in  length  and  3  inches  [76"""] 
in  diameter. 

Specimen  No.  4  consists  of  a  portion  of  shell  being  a  horizontal  section,  showing  the  curve,  and  was 
about  2  inches  [51"""]  in  diameter.     It  is  similar  to  Fig.  349,  page  201. 

S[)ecimen  No.  5  is  similar  to  Columnaria  alveolata.  Fig.  318,  page  199.  I  observed  many  specimens 
of  this  fossil,  some  of  which  were  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter. 

Specim.Mi  No.  6  is  of  a  honey-combed  appearance,  and  is  very  much  similar  to  Fig.  408,  page  224, 
Chcctetes.     A  si)ecies  of  coral. 

Specimen  No.  7  is  sunilar  to  No.  6,  and  also  to  C/icetetcs  lyccperdon.  Fig.  320,  page  199. 

Many  specimens  were  observed,  some  of  which  were  3  or  4  feet  [.9'"  or  1.2 '"J  in  diameter  and  a  foot 
[,3'"j  in  thickness.  In  shape  they  were  nearly  flat  on  the  bottom  ami  rounded  on  top,  being  highest  in  the 
center. 

Specimen  No.  8  is  similar  to  Fig.  355,  page  201,  Ormoceras  tenuijilum.  Many  of  this  species  seen,  but 
it  was  difficult  to  obtain  a  good  si)ecimen.  One  which  I  observed  was  the  length  of  a  gun-barrel.  It  was 
prob;d)ly  much  longer,  as  the  ends  were  broken  or  disappeared  in  the  rock. 

Specimen  No.  9  is  8  inches  [203"""]  in  length  and  i^  inches  [32"""]  wide  at  the  broadest  part,  from 
which  it  gradually  tapers  to  the  smaller  end.  It  appears  to  be  a  white  core  from  which  projects  spines 
along  the  sides  at  spaces  of  one-fourth  inch  [6"""]. 

Specimen  No.  1  o  is  a  confused  mass  of  small  round  pieces  of  coral  rock,  one-fourth  inch  [6"""]  in  diameter, 
and  some  of  tlie  jjieces  (may  be  incomplete)  2  inches  [51"""]  in  length.  These  pieces  have  a  small  black 
core  through  the  center. 


THK  LADV  FKANKLIN  HAY  KXrKDlTlON. 


273 


jruvious 


I  observed  severni  sncrimens  exactly  similar  to   Fij;.  477,  pa^e  24^1.     Thoy  were  one -half  to  i  inch 

[u.7to  25.4 J  in  diameter,  consisting  of  a  narrow  liand  or  rim    of  white,  from  wliicli  ntinieroiis  spines 

projected  towards  the  center.  During  my  stay  at  Cape  Cracroft,  tht'  vioieiil  wind-storm  wliit  h  continued 
during  tlie  whole  of  the  time  was  an  efre<'lual  drawback  to  a  (lose  examination  of  the  higher  stratification. 
The  rocks  were  falling  continually,  making  it  dangerous  clitnLing  along  the  face  of  the  cliff. 


Floeberg  at  Cape  Baird,  showing  stratificaUon.    (MeiRht  of  floeber^,  about  35  feet  above  main  pack.) 
[From  drawing  by  Sergeant  (iardiiier.) 

Duplicates  of  all  the  fossils  were  obtained,  and  I  have  picked  from  the  number  a  represent -stive  speci- 
men of  each  kind.  They  have  been  i)acked  separately  and  marked  according  to  the  foregoing  list,  and 
returned  with  this  report. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

If.  S.  Gardinkr, 

Sergeant,  Signal  Sendee,  U.  S.  Army. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Grkely, 

First  LieuUnant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  U,  S,  Army,  Commanding  Polar  Expedition, 
H.  Mis.  393 18 


274 


TIIK  LADY   FRANKLIN  HAY  KXPKDITION. 


Appendix  No.  85. — l.iculcnant  Lockivond^ s  orders  to  cross  Grinnell  I  md, 

?'oRT  Conger,  Grinnem.  Lanii,  ^//-//24,  1883. 
Sir:  You  will  leave  this  statiun  on  or  about  April  35  for  the  purposes  of  inland  exploration  to  the 
southwcstward  via  Archer  Fiord.  You  will  especially  endeavor  to  reach  such  an  elevated  point  inland  as 
will  enable  you  to  judge  conclusively  if  the  mountain  range  seen  to  the  southwcstward  from  Mount  Chester 
A.  Arthur  in  July,  1882,  is  on  a  land  separate  from  Crinnell  Land.  It  is  possible  that  Mount  Jeffers  ma^ 
b«  reached  by  striking  the  high  land  to  the  southwest  of  Klla  Hay. 

In  addition  to  the  dog-sledge  taken,  a  supporting  sledge  will  accompany  you  two  days'  march  from 
this  station. 

In  case  you  are  turned  back  before  May  1  by  the  impracticable  nature  of  the  country,  you  ran,  in  your 

discretion,  visit  the  extreme  northern  end  uf  Lake  Hazen  in  order  to  determine  the  discharge  points  of  the 

several  glaciers  which  lying  northward  of  the  lake  are  yet  apparently  separated  from  it  by  a  range  of  hills. 

You  will  be  absent  not  exceeding  thirty  days,  and  the  arrangement  of  the  details  of  the  journey  are 

intrusted  to  you. 

I  am,    r,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  \V.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fijth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  0.  and  Assistant,  Commandirig, 

Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Injantry,  A.  S.  O. 


Appendix  No.  86. — Lieutenant  Lockwood\<!  report  on  the  crossing  0/  Grinnell  Land. 

Fort  CoNi.ER,  Grinnell  Land,  yune  21,  1883. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  render  the  following  summary  of  my  last  sledge  journey  to  the  west,  occu- 
pying from  April  25  to  May  26,  1883. 

The  outfit  consisted  of  Christiansen's  team  (ten  dogs)  and  sledge,  and  thirty  days'  rations,  &c.  To  this 
I  added  the  small  "hand-sledge,"  shelter  tent,  two  knapsacks,  &c.,  to  provide  against  all  contingencies  as 
far  as  possible,  for  I  hardly  expected  to  get  much  farther  than  the  head  of  the  fiord  with  the  la rj^e  sledge  or 
to  be  able  to  proceed  many  days  beyond  with  the  small  one,  and  expected  to  use  the  knapsacks  before  turn- 
ing back.  The  route  proposed  was  to  the  head  of  Archer  Fiord  and  thence  inland  by  the  valley  beyond 
Ella  Bay  in  a  general  west  or  southwest  direction  until  the  rations  gave  out,  if  it  were  possible  to  travel  so 
long. 

With  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Christiansen,  the  Eskimo,  on  the  evening  of  April  25  I  left  the  station, 
accompanied  by  a  supporting  sledge.  Sergeant  Elison  and  Jens  (Eskimo),  for  the  first  two  marches.  The 
travel  in  the  harbor  proved  extremely  bad  on  account  of  deep  soft  snow.  Beyond,  however,  it  was  better. 
We  camped  at  Stony  Cape.  After  this  the  travel  continued  to  improve  till  E^lla  Bay  (at  the  head  of  the 
fiord)  was  reached.  When  the  supporting  sledge  turned  back  on  the  morning  of  the  third  day's  journey  we 
were  able  to  get  along  with  everything,  about  970  pounds,  very  well. 

The  fourth  march  out  took  us  to  the  head  of  Ella  Bay  and  of  the  fiord,  about  67  miles  from  Fort 
Conger,  according  to  the  report  of  Lieutenant  Archer,  R.  N.,  who  explored  this  fiord.  The  valley  beyond 
has  a  general  trend  to  the  southwest  and  is  walled  in  by  grand  heights  and  cliffs  on  each  side ;  its  lower  part 
is  occupied  by  a  small  lake.  One  short  march  took  us  up  the  valley  as  far  as  we  could  go,  about  10  miles, 
elevation  150  feet  [46""].     Latitude,  80°  59'  42.5",  longitude,  70°  41',  observed. 

Here  the  terminal  face  of  a  large  glacier  stretched  from  side  to  side,  and  a  very  short  survey  of  the 
scene  made  it  evident  that  nothing  could  be  done  in  this  direction  with  either  of  the  sledges.  On  further 
examination  an  advance  by  means  of  the  "  pack  outfit "  seemed  almost  equally  unpromising. 

We  remained  here  two  days,  thirteen  hours  of  which  were  spent  by  myself  and  Sergeant  Brainard  in 
ascending  the  precipitous  cliffs  to  the  left,  gaining  an  altitude  of  [•]  feet. 

The  weather  was  not  very  good,  and  the  view  from  the  top  somewhat  disappointing.  The  cliffs  to  the 
north  and  east  also  obstructed  the  view.     To  the  south  lay  a  maze  of  cone  shaped  mountain  peaks,  separated 


♦Omission  in  original. — A.  W.G. 


THK  LADY  FKANKI-IX  HAY  KXI'KDITION. 


275 


Irainard  in 


l)y  deep  and  narrow  valleys,  and  the  whole  covered  witli  ii  e  and  snow.  Scvor.il  nla<  iors  were  seen  in  this 
direction.  To  the  west  and  southwest  many  isolated  suniinits  wire  .ilso  notii  ed,  but  they  seemed  mostly 
great  dome-shaped  heights,  rather  than  peaks,  rising  hke  wines  on  the  liori/on.  A  peak,  however,  of  the 
ordinary  kind  was  noticed  at  a  f;reat  distance,  prohahly  75  miles.  It  Ixire  S.  60"  W.  (true).  To  the  north 
and  northwest  sections  o I"  the  (lartield  Range,  and  United  States  Mountains  lieyond,  were  ([uite  plain,  their 
profiles  projecting  up  like  true  sierras. 

Heyond  the  opposite  side  (north)  of  the  valley,  in  whi(  h  lay  our  c.imp,  cnulil  be  seen  several  glacier- 
like formations,  and  the  country  to  the  west  and  south  was  apparently  iie  cap|)ed.  At  tiiis  season,  however, 
it  is  very  difficult  to  dislinguish  at  a  distance  between  ice  and  snow.  The  oi\ly  sure  test  is  the  sight  of  a 
glacier  "wall"  or  break  in  the  surface.  These  walls  almost  always  have  a  greenish  tint.  'I'he  valley  above- 
camp  continued  to  trend  to  the  southwest  for  about  20  or  25  miles,  when  a  prominent  pyramid  shaped 
mountain  terminateil  it.  The  glacier  occupied  its  whole  extent,  and  may  have  a  continuation  to  tiie  south. 
A  branch  glacier  came  in  from  the  north  just  above  camp. 

The  whole  surface  of  the  country,  in  every  direction,  had  a  great  elevation.  Nothing  like  an  extended 
plain  or  wide  valley  of  any  extent  was  anywhere  noticed.  The  fa(  e  of  the  gl.acier,  or  width  of  the  valley, 
near  camp  was  1,600  yards  [1,463'"],  found  by  ji.acing  the  distance  otT,  and  the  "wall"  was  150  feet  [\0"\ 
high  per  sextant  angle  100  yards  [91'"]  c///.  Latitude  81009'  50",  longitude  70°  31',  observed.  Having 
taken  numerous  observations  for  latitude  and  longitude,  we  turned  back  to  VWa.  IJay  and  thence  proceeded 
to  the  head  of  the  northern  arm  at  the  head  of  the  fiord,  Beatrix  liay,  making  two  marches  of  the  distance, 
about  [•]  miles.  Having  abundant  rations  I  took  it  (piite  leisurely.  The  difls  around  these  bays  are  i)ar- 
ticularly  grand,  rising  almost  vertically  3,000  feet  [9<4"']  or  more.  I  measured  those  on  tiie  south  side  of 
Klla  Hay,  and  made  them  4,097  feet  [1,249"'].  They  are  all  prob.al)ly  ice-capped.  Miniature  glaciers  were 
observed  hanging  over  the  edges  in  places. 

We  lay  over  a  day  at  Beatrix  Bay  to  find  the  best  way  to  proceed.  Two  or  three  narrow  ravines  from 
the  west  looked  so  unfavorable  that  I  finally  started  up  the  main  valley  leading  in  a  NNW.  direction.  The 
valley  is  from  2  to  3  miles  wide  and  is  walled  in  by  the  most  imposing  cliffs,  very  steep  and  f)f  immense 
height.  A  marchof  9  miles  brought  us  to  its  head,  and  it  being  hardly  practicable  to  ])roceed  farther  with  the 
large  sledge,  we  again  lay  over  a  day  to  reconnoitre.  FLlevation  of  camp,  700  feet  [213"'].  Base ;  latitude 
81"  16'  59",  longitude  70°  46',  observed. 

An  adjoining  mountain,  2,900  feet  [884'"],  was  ascended  to  get  an  outlook.  The  most  conspicuous 
object  was  a  line  of  cliffs  about  a  half  dozen  miles  to  the  north,  seemmg  to  mark  a  large  valley  or  lake 
extending  towards  the  east  and  west.  The  view  at  some  few  miles  in  either  direction  was  cut  off  by 
intervening  heights.  Between  this  valley  and  camp  lay  an  elevated  depression,  forming  a  divide  between 
the  two  water-courses.  Much  of  its  surface  was  occupied  by  a  small  lake.  We  had  crossed  this  in 
ascending.  The  ice,  where  exposed  in  places  near  shore,  was  so  transparent  that  stones  could  be  seen  on 
the  bottom.  The  lake  apparently  drained  both  north  and  south.  The  Garfield  and  United  States  Mountains 
were  quite  prominent,  and  in  the  midst  of  the  former  the  Henrietta  Nesmith  glacier  was  soon  perceived. 
The  intervening  country  seemed  comparatively  low  and  of  rather  a  mountainous  aspect.  The  depression 
occupied  by  Lake  Hazen  was  readily  seen.  The  compass  bearings  of  a  number  of  peaks  and  elevated 
"  domes"  were  taken,  some  of  which  correspond  nearly  with  the  positions  of  Mount  Arthur  and  Mounts  Augur 
and  Russell.  Two  or  three  branches  of  the  valley  referred  to  were  traced  towards  the  southwest  several 
miles.  Towards  the  horizon  between  southwest  and  southeast  the  country  seemed  greatly  elevated  and  had 
every  appearance  of  being  ice-capped.  Off  towards  the  south  about  10  miles  was  an  ice  wall,  doubtless  the 
flank  of  the  branch  glacier  to  the  north  of  our  camp  in  the  Ella  Bay  Valley.  Many  of  the  dome-shaped 
heights,  "  hogbacks,"  in  this  direction  must  be  over  5000  feet  [1,524"']  in  altitude.  Several  remained  visible 
from  every  elevation  for  several  days  afterwards. 

A  ravine  to  the  southwest  offered  a  route,  though  a  difficult  one,  but  I  decided  to  make  a  reconnaissance 
to  the  large  valley  referred  to,  to  the  north.  After  a  rest  we  started  accordingly,  taking  the  dog-team  and 
small  empty  sledge.  An  hour's  fast  traveling  brought  us  to  the  heights  overlooking  Musk-ox  Valley  and 
another  hour  was  occupied  in  getting  down  a  rocky  gorge  to  the  river  bed.  It  was  seen  to  be  a  valley 
trending  off  towards  the  WSW.  on  one  hand  and  the  NE.  on  the  other.  Two  hours'  journey  in  the  latter 
direction  proved  that  w  a  were  going  down  stream.    The  valley  is  3  or  4  miles  wide  on  an  average,  probably 


*Omission  iu  original. — A.  W.  G. 


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276 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION, 


bounded  on  the  north  side  by  clifts  and  on  the  south  by  great  heights,  but  not  so  precipitous.  The  extent 
of  it  seen  during  the  day  was  about  1 5  miles  in  a  straight  line.  Hefore  returning  to  camp  we  saw  four  musk- 
oxen  and  shot  one  for  dog-lood.  A  better  route  out  of  the  valley  was  discovered  on  our  return,  to  the  east 
of  the  rocky  gorge  referred  to. 

This  valley  offered  the  best  means  of  advancing  west,  but  it  was  necessary  to  take  the  little  sledge  and 
shelter-tent,  and  to  reduce  all  weights  to  the  lowest  possible  limit.  The  si^dge-runners  were  very  much  worn 
by  this  preliminary  journey,  anil  twelve  days'  absence  was  all  I  thought  it  well  to  attempt,  expecting  towards 
the  close  to  have  to  resort  to  the  knajisacks.  i"\:c.  'J"he  outfit,  consisting  of  eleven  days'  rations,  1 13  [lounds 
l)emniican  (tor  the  dogs),  &c.,  weighed  by  estimate,  328  pounds.  We  left  our  base  of  sup[)lies  (the  big  tent 
and  sledge)  at  12.15  a.  m.,  May  8,  and,  reaching  the  valley  to  the  east  of  the  Rocky  Gorge,  traveled  about  a 
half-dozen  miles  ui)-stream  and  went  into  camj).  Camp  1.  Latitude,  81 '  18'  25",  longitude,  71°  01',  ob- 
served. 

The  next  day's  march  took  us  to  what  bad  seemed  the  end  of  the  valley  or  height  stretching  directly 
across.  Here  two  hours  or  more  were  spent  in  a  reconnaissance.  The  stream  came  out  of  a  canon  to  the 
south  and  apparently  terminated  in  a  glacier,  the  walls  of  which  were  distinctly  visible  at  8  or  10  miles  in 
that  direction.  The  general  course  of  the  valley  was  continued  in  a  narrow  gap  just  north  of  the  heights 
referred  to.  It  was  very  unpromising,  being  full  of  rocks  r.nd  stones,  but  the  caiion  referred  to  seemed 
the  only  other  resort.  The  sleilge  had  overturned  shortly  after  sta.ting  on  this  day's  march,  the  uprights  of 
one  runner  being  all  broken  short  off  in  the  mortises,  but  were  mended  "after  a  fashion."  Now  the  runner 
"  flopped  over"  so  continually  that  it  was  necessary  to  camp  anil  "  fix  it,"  after  proceeding  a  few  miles  up 
this  gap.  The  march  was  a  short  one  conse(iiiently — about  8  miles.  Camp  H.  Latitude,  81°  15'  35", 
longitude,  71°  46',  observed. 

A  cache  was  made  here  of  rations,  and,  on  account  of  the  mishap  to  the  sledge,  the  snow-shoes,  ax,  &c., 
were  left  behind. 

This  gap  is  about  4  or  5  miles  in  extent.  At  its  western  end  the  stream-bed  occupies  the  middle  of  a 
long  plain-like  valley,  spreading  out  into  a  lake  of  some  size  about  liie  middle.  On  each  side  runs  a  low 
range  of  hills,  and  at  its  end  towards  the  WSW.  is  a  mountain  which  appears  to  close  it  in,  about  15  or  20 
miles  from  the  gap.  The  wall  of  a  glacier  apparently  runs  along  the  south  side  of  the  valley,  just  back  of 
the  low  range  of  hills  on  that  side,  and  the  country  behind  it  seemed  one  continuous  glacier  surface.  All 
this  was  seen  from  the  heights  near  the  gap.  TIk;  next  march,  the  third  from  our  base,  took  us  WSW., 
beyond  the  mountain  referred  10  and  close  to  the  glacier  wall — the  "  Chinese  wall,"  as  I  called  it.  We  had 
been  gradually  ascending,  and  now  the  barometer  showed  an  elevation  of  [*]  feet.  The  wall  here  per  sex- 
tant angle  and  distance  paced  off  was  143  feet  [44"']  high. 

We  now  followed  along  the  wall,  gaining  a  greater  altitude  in  every  hour's  travel,  keeping  the  same 
general  direction,  till  we  gained  the  top  of  what  is  doubtless  the  water-shed  of  (Irinnell  Land.  A  detour  of 
a  mile  or  two  to  the  north  gave  a  slightly  greater  elevation,  the  barometer  showing  [•]  feet  above  the  sea- 
level.  The  view  to  the  south  was  cut  off  by  the  //irr  dc  ^^lacf  a  few  miles  from  the  wall.  Its  gently  undu- 
lating surface  formed  the  horizon  in  that  direction.  The  course  of  the  last  three  marches,  however,  was 
plainly  visible — the  mountain  ascended  near  our  base  of  supplies,  and  a  few  degrees  farther  to  the  right 
(ENE.)  .several  lofty  domes,  evidently  ice-clad. 

The  view  to  the  north  was  restricted  by  the  extension  in  that  direction  of  the  ridge  on  which  we  stood 
to  the  distant  mountain  ranges.  Off  towards  the  northwest  several  miles  a  large  lake  was  discovered,  prob- 
ably 10  miles  across.  A  streamlet  extended  southeast  from  it  to  the  "Chinese  wall  "  and  occupied  a  depres- 
sion, for"iing  a  wide,  sloping  valley.  Beyond  this  valley,  and  extending  from  the  lake  to  the  prolongation 
of  the  wall  to  the  southwest,  the  country  was  broken  and  mountainous.  A  line  of  cliffs  was  seen,  extending 
in  azimuth  from  SW.  io  WSW.,  marking  the  valley  we  di-scended  the  ncxt  day.  A  mountain  peak  appeared 
to  the  north,  which,  from  its  bearing  and  distance,  I  think  must  have  been  Mount  Arthur.  The  ground 
adjoining  the  great  wall,  on  either  side  of  the  divide,  had  a  gradual  slope  to  the  north.  I  was  surprised  to 
see  no  continuous  ravine  or  noticeable  water-course  which  served  to  drain  the  melted  ice  to  the  east  and 
west.  Many  lakes  were  seen  and  crossed  along  the  wall,  and  in  places  narrow,  ditch-like  gulches,  washed 
out  evidently  by  the  water,  but  the  glacier  'aco  extended  U])hill  and  downhi".  across  the  country  in  a  very 
arbitrary  fashion. 


•Omissi(/n  in  original — A.  V.  C. 


^im^ 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


277 


Some  miles  beyond  the  lakc-glacier  stream  referred  to,  the  wall  inclined  more  to  the  southwest  and  I 
left  it  ..nd  obli(iued  to  the  right.  We  soon  gained  a  considerable  elevation  near  a  smai.  lake  surroun<lcd 
by  mountains  (elevation  [•]  feet).  It  seemed  to  tlrain  both  east  and  west.  Proceeding  west  down  a  narrow 
ravine  we  soon  came  to  a  steej)  snowbank,  an  almost  vertical  fall  of  60  feet  [>8"'].  Camp  IV.  Latitude, 
81°  05'  10",  longitude,  74°  41,  observed. 

We  descended  this  at  the  next  march,  the  5th,  and  proceeding  down  a  narrow  gorge,  with  towering 
mountains  all  around,  in  three-quarters  of  an  hour  lost  a  thousand  feet  [305'"!  of  altitude  and  came  out 
into  a  deep,  narrow  valley.  The  route  taken  seemed  to  be  the  only  one  by  which  the  descent  could  have 
been  accomplished.  .Some  miles  down  this  valley  we.ame  to  a  branch  from  the  left,  filled  by  a  large  glacier 
and  discharging  into  a  large  lake.  Another  glacier  entered  the  lake  from  the  south  at  its  farther  end 
and,  beyond  the  line  of  cliffs  marking  the  soutli  side  of  the  valley  or  lake,  obliqued  to  the  right  and  was 
lost  to  view.  We  gained  the  end  of  the  lake  and  camped.  Camp  V.  Latitude,  80°  56'  27,  longitude, 
76°  13',  observed. 

A  few  miles  farther  the  next  day  (the  6th  Ma>ch)  and  we  discovered  salt  water  and  the  he.id  of  a  fiord 
named  Greely  Fiord.  The  last  glacier  here  iiischarged.  \  few  miles  farther  west  a  large  twin  glacier  came 
in  from  the  south.  Bear  tracks  were  here  seen.  We  proceeded  about  26  miles  down  the  fiord  and  camped 
(the  Farthest,  May  13,  sixth  camp)  in  a  heavy  snow-storm  at  12.30  p.  m. 

lly  making  a  long  fast  of  nineteen  hours,  and  then  cutting  down  the  dog-food  and  the  rations  still  on  hand 
for  part  of  the  homeward  journey  to  the  lowest  limit,  we  were  enabled  to  re'-  ain  here  till  the  storm  abated 
and  the  weather  became  quite  clear  at  times.  Complete  sets  of  observations  for  hititude  and  longitude 
were  obtained  and  many  compass  bearings,  iVc.  The  cliffs  on  the  south  side  were  ascended  by  Sergeant 
Brainard  anil  myself  and  a  point  readied  3  or  4  miles  farther  to  the  west.  From  this  elevation  a  good  view 
was  obtained,  except  of  the  mouth  of  the  fiord,  which  a  suddenly  rising  storm  shut  out.  Later,  however, 
from  a  position  on  the  fiord  itself,  several  miles  from  shore,  the  extreme  capes  of  the  fioril  were  clearly  seen. 
Caretul  examination  with  the  telescope,  from  here  am\  from  camp,  on  many  occasi  ns,  failed  to  reveal  any 
land  between.  Distances  and  bearings  are  all  by  estimate  and  compass  sights,  it  being  impracticable  to  do 
any  satisfactory  triangulating  on  account  of  the  \v"  ther,  the  deep  soft  snow  uniformly  coverin<^  the  fiord,  iS:c. 

The  fiord  is  between  60  and  80  miles  long,  the  south  shorf!  being  considerably  longer  than  the  north. 
Whether  ihe  farthest  cape  on  the  former  side  was  on  the  farther  side  of  an  intervening  branch  or  on  an 
island,  could  not  be  determined.  The  fiord  near  its  heatl  may  be  said  to  be  10  miles  wide  and  15  or  more 
at  its  mouth.  The  whole  shore-line  is  bounded  by  steep,  high  cliffs,  broken  by  ravines,  valleys,  and  a  few 
branc  h  fiords.  At  the  head  it  forms  two  bays,  the  one  to  the  north,  like  the  other  (which  we  traversed), 
being  probably  the  outlet  of  a  long  valley  or  lake.  Beyond  the  shore-line  in  every  direction  the  country  is 
very  elevated.  Thirty  or  40  miles  beyond  the  north  shore  and  extending  east  and  west  was  a  conspicuous 
mountain  range.  Off  towards  the  northwest,  somewhat  nearer,  was  a  large  glacier.  From  the  clitVs  ascended 
the  country  to  the  south  appeared  more  uniform  in  appearance — a  series  of  immense  ire-cappeil  unilulations 
of  great  elevation.  A  glacier  w.as  distinguished  some  20  miles  to  the  south,  apparently  another  offshoot  of 
the  "  C;hinese  wall,"  the  face  of  a  gr .."at  //ur  i/f  ;^/air  being  traced  a  few  miles  towards  the  east  and  west. 
Fossil  remains  were  found  on  these  cliffs — of  wood  and  fishes  seemingly.  It  was  impracticable  to  get  any 
tidal  observations  in  this  fiord,  having  no  ax  or  sp.ide  along,  nor  anytliing  that  could  be  used  as  a  rod. 

The  position  of  the  "  Farthest,"  as  since  deduced,  is  latitude  80°  48'  39";  longitude,  78°  26'  .vest; 
magnetic  variation,  116°  35'  ±  1°  3'. 

We  started  on  return  at  8.15  a.  m.,  May  16,  camping  at  the  same  places  as  on  the  outward  journey  and 
reaching  our  base  in  six  m.'rches.  At  the  second  camp  on  return-it  was  necessary  to  u.ll  one  of  the  dogs 
for  dog-food.  The  traveling  generally  and  on  the  fiord  especially  was  rendered  much  wo.se  by  the  storm. 
The  homeward  route  was  the  same,  except  tliat  I  went  to  the  head  of  Simnionds  Bay  (of  Archer  Fiord) 
and  thence  with  the  little  sledge  exjjlored  the  valley  beyond.  This  valley  is  mostly  occupied  by  a  long  lake. 
After  proceeding  about  15  miles  in  a  N  N  W.  direction  we  encountered,  as  expected,  the  prolongation  of 
Musk-ox  Valley  trending  off  towards  the  northeast  and  west.  I  had  imagined  its  outlet  was  Sinmionds 
Bay,  but  think  now  it  must  be  Ida  Bay  (of  Chandler  Fiord).  Further  down  Archer  Fioril  Christiansen  killed 
a  harbor  seal,  a  large  one  of  the  kind,  weigli  |)robably  200  pounds. 


*Ojnissiou  in  oiiulmil. — A.  \V.  (j. 


j78 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


lii 


! 


The  snow  in  Discovery  Harbor  was  found  worse  than  before.  "  Howler"  gave  out  and  was  left  behind, 
and  has  since  been  found  dead.  The  large  sledge  was  dropped,  and  we  came  in  with  the  small  one,  reaching 
Fort  Conger  at  noon. 

May  26. — The  great  mcr  de  glace  discovered  on  this  trip  extends,  I  think  without  any  doubt,  continu- 
ously from  Archer  to  Greely  Fiord.  From  a  mountain  near  second  camo  on  return  the  wall  was  seen 
trending  cff  towards  the  southwest  a  distance  J  estimated  at  40  miles.  It  was  also  seen  in  other  places 
besides  those  mentioned  in  the  foregoing  pages.  And  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  to  the  south  seemed 
to  confirm  the  idea. 

Of  the  extent  of  the  mer  de  glace  to  the  south  of  its  northern  face  it  is  hard  to  form  an  opinion.  Ice 
was  often  clearly  discerned  for  a  half-dozen  miles  or  more,  and  the  prospect  towards  the  south  was  always 
white  and  apparently  that  of  an  ice  clad  surface,  very  high.  On  account  of  this  elevation  I  could  seldom 
see  much  farther  directly  south  than  this,  even  from  mountains  ascended.  Judging  from  this  i.he  mer  de  glace 
must  be  of  enormous  depth  just  back  of  its  face,  unless  its  base  rises  in  altitude  towards  the  sc  iin,  which  the 
slope  of  the  ground  to  the  north  would  seem  to  oppose. 

The  height  of  the  wall  bears  a  very  small  proportion  to  the  elevation  back  of  it ;  that  at  the  head  of 
the  valley  above  Ella  Bay  was  160  feet  [49'"],  and  at  camp  near  "divide"  of  Grinnell  Land  143  feet  [44'"]. 
I  think,  however,  the  latter  was  exceptionally  low.  Both  were  determined  by  sextant  and  distance  deter- 
mined by  pacing.  The  "  wall "  in  some  places  was  evidently  much  higher.  The  wall  is  lined  all  alonp  its 
foot  by  blocks  and  fragments  of  ice  constantly  broken  from  the  face  above.  The  noise  was  often  noticed. 
No  moraines  or  foreifr''  matter  of  any  kind  were  observed  on  the  surface,  and  crevasses  were  extremely  few 
and  insignificant,  e  -cept  ci  the  offshoot  above  P^Ua  Bay  and  the  two  above  Greely  Fiord.  The  surface  was 
often  noticed  to  have  a  mottled  appearance,  probably  due  to  slight  depressions  in  its  gentle  undulations. 
Of  moraines  along  the  wall  there  were  very  few  or  none  at  all,  and  only  noticeable  in  one  place  where 
a  low  ridge  of  earth  anil  stones  ran  parallel  with  it  a  few  feet  out.  This  wall  was  generally  of  a  uniform 
white  color;  the  glacier  face  above  Ella  Bay  was  distinctly  marked,  green  above  and  white  below.  In  one 
or  two  places  a  few  feet  in  extent  the  mer  de  g! ne  sloped  down  to  the  ground,  and  here  might  have  been 
ascended  apj/rr'-ntly.  Elsewhere  the  wall  for  icd  a  continuous  vertical  plane.  The  ground  to  the  north 
of  it,  especially  on  the  divide,  &c.,  had  a  singularly  smooth  appearance,  as  if  it  had  once  formed  the  base 
of  this  mass  of  ice. 

Many  small  icebergs  were  seen  at  the  head  of  Greely  Fiord  in  both  the  bays  [temporarily  named  Ad^hi 
and  Aiitoiiietle],  as  well  as  an  occasional  stray  one  farther  down.  They  were  as  far  as  I  could  juilge  entirely 
similar  to  the  ordinary  floe-berg  of  the  straits  and  the  north  coast  of  Greenland,  varying  like  the  latter  in 
shape,  height,  &c.  Tho.se  in  the  southern  bay  or  arm  of  the  fiord  were  close  to  the  glacier  and  were  un- 
doubtedly detachments  from  it.  The  others  must  also  have  had  the  same  origin.  This  glacier  had  great 
numbers  of  transverse  crevasses  near  its  end,  from  which  it  would  seem  that  these  bergs  break  off  and  fall, 
rather  than  become  detached  by  their  buoyancy.  Similar  crevasses  were  noticed  at  tiie  end  of  the  glacier, 
discharging  into  the  lake  just  to  the  east.  There  was  no  noticeable  difference  in  the  character  of  the  ice 
of  Greely  Fiord  from  that  of  Archer  Fiord,  &c.  There  was  very  little  snow  in  Musk-ox  Valley  and  also 
on  the  "divide";  tlie  absence  of  it  was  very  noticeable  on  the  latter,  the  small  stones  with  whicli  the  ground 
was  covered  being  continually  exposed  in  small  areas. 

Tracks  of  game  were  tjuite  abundant,  but  not  much  game  was  seen,  four  musk-oxen,  seals  on  botli  fiords, 
a  few  ptarmigan,  and  one  hare  being  all.  Of  these  one  musk-ox,  one  seal  (Archer  Fiord),  two  ptarmigan, 
and  one  luire  (Ella  Bay  Valley  and  Musk-ox  Valley,  respectively)  were  shot.  Bear  tracks  were  seen  in  two 
places  at  the  head  of  Greely  Fiord,  and  fox  tracks  also,  but  tracks  of  small  game  were  extremely  scarce 
beyond  Camp  IV.  Very  old  musk-ox  droppings,  however,  were  seen  in  the  valley  just  beyond.  Fresh 
musk-ox  tracks  were  seen  on  the  divide  as  well  as  to  the  east  of  it,  also  along  the  shore  of  Ella  Bay. 
Numerous  lemming,  ermine,  and  ptarmigan  tracks  weie  seen  daily.  An  owl  was  seen  one  day  and  snow- 
birds wete  ([uite  numerous.     Wolf  tracks  were  seen  about  Sun  Bay  and  Miller's  Island. 

With  regard  to  a  sledge  jjarty  (with  dogs)  goiag  overland  and  exploring  the  western  coast  with  the 
vicinity  of  this  station  as  a  base,  I  think  it  would  hi  feasible,  at  least  for  a  short  distance  by  following 
the  vdl-'y  north  of  Simmonds  Bay  and  thence  taking  my  course.     The  journey  would  be  very  laborious. 

I  ap|)end  to  this  some  trat  ings  (the  outlines)  of  sketches  made  during  the  trip.  The  details  ot  my 
journey,  iS;c.,  may  be  found  in  my  sledge  journal. 


^  ■■  'niirmrtiii''-^ 


■* 


The  I. ally  Kranklin  May  Kxiiciliiiun,  \'ol.  I. 


Plate  I. 


od  was  left  behind, 
mall  one,  reaching 

ny  doubt,  continu- 
the  wall  was  seen 
en  in  other  places 
)  the  south  seemed 

an  opinion.  Ice 
south  was  always 
m  I  could  seldom 
lis  ilie  mcr de  f^liue 
esc.4in,  which  the 

lat  at  the  head  of 
nd  143  feet  [44'"]. 
id  distance  deter- 
lined  all  alonf  its 
vas  often  noticed, 
ere  extremely  few 
The  surface  was 
entle  undulations, 
one  pKice  where 
ally  of  a  uniform 
:  below.  In  one 
might  have  been 
jnd  to  the  north 
:  formed  the  base 

ily  named  AJfla 
Id  judge  entirely 
like  the  latter  in 
ler  and  were  un- 
;lacier  had  great 
ak  off  iind  fall, 
of  the  glacier, 
acter  of  tiie  ice 
Valley  and  also 
hich  the  ground 

on  both  fiords, 

wo  i)tarmigan, 
ere  seen  in  two 

tremely  scarce 
leyond.  Fresh 
of  Klia  Hay. 
day  anil  snow- 
coast  with  tiie 
e  by  following 

laborious. 

details  ol  my 


'■*-'-'   ^"  ?.  .»  -r"  ^."' 


"''*•_-    ■-'•'.  "^j  •»  ■    .'■^^r^u.Mi- 


I'li;.  I.    r.\i  1.  ul'  CJI.ACIKK  AliuVK  li.MMA  IJAV  (1  Kll.M  'll-.M).       Al'Kll.  JO,  iSSj. 


I'll..  J.    I'l.ANK  \'|IAV  HI    SaMK  IKciM  SK.  CuKNKK. 

May  I,  iS8j. 


I'u;.  3.  Mi.R  i)K  Gi.ACic  '•t'niM.M-;  Wai.i."  irsr 
Wkstok  "I)ivii)k",I,o()K1no  L\st  (ai  I.akk 
IIauuv;.     Mav  iS.  iSSj. 


r 


;'i 


I  ( 


'U 


I) 


si 


Tlic  Laily  Iruuklin  Hay  lixpcilili.in,  \oI.  I. 


Plate  II. 


6i@[J!jjgLirir 


i'-'"-"^'' 


Fk;.  4.  Mlr  uii  tJi-Aci;  "CIhinks!-.  \Vai.i."  wiir.ur.  iirst  Ai'i'Ku.uiiiai,  jis:'  Last  hk 

Camp  XI.     M.w  10,  iSSj. 


Kic.  5.  (ii.Acii  u  "  I'l.oKiii.ui;,"  Ili.Ai)  111- (iKKr.i  V  Kmuii 
^.Vniuimi'ik  liAV).     May  13,  1SS3. 


l-'n;.  6.    ("i|-i'siiiKir  nv   \\\v.  Mkk   hi:  (iiAii-.     'I'lir. 
Swrr.  .\,s   l-'ii;.  S.     'rill'.   Illi.i.-sini  s  (in    iiii,   l.i  i  r 

OlKKKSI'ilNli.        Xl.AK     III  Ah    i«l'     l.NKI',    1:1   IWIl.N 

Cami'.sXII  am>\III.     May  u\  1SS3. 


riic  l.iiilv  I'ruiiklin  Hay  Kxpfcliticin,  \'(j1.  1. 


Plate  III 


llli.  7.    (il.AinU  "  I'l.ill.l;!  Kil  "   AlCllAllKK  Ar  lIlAlinl    CiRI  l-,|  Y  I'loKh,  M\Y    IJ,  iSSj. 


l-'li;.   S.     (.il.AUl.U     IC.MKKl.NG    XaI.I.i   ..        TllK    (Mils    K 1     llll:    RlLlH     \K\.    AT    lllK    lll-.Al)    HI'    1111.    FluRl) 

(Anioini  iTi:  l!\v).     May  12,  iSSj. 


l''li;.  I).    l.AKI  .  OlAill-.K,  AMI  Mm  NIAINS  I  KdM  Wl.sl'  I '.Mi  HI    l.\M  ,  (AMI'  .Mil.        Till.  Km   II.  1.1  IS   lllKC)l:i;il 

1111;  l''oui.i;K(ir.M>  111'  iiiK  Ski  nil  in  ilii:  Diuici  ihn  ii|-  iiii:  .\kkii\v-iii.\i>.     M  w  12,  iSS;. 


I'U;.  10.    lil  Aill.K  AM"  Cl.UlS  I  KiiM   V.\-,l    K.Ml  dl'  I,.\Kl:',    C\M1'  .Mil   is  in    lliK  Klillil' 

I'uKWMuuM).     May  12,  iSSj. 


I  ;i 


V' 

IS 

1 

f' 

n 

•      :|f 

d 

1 

n^ 

i 

i 

!        ,1 


{ 


Iv 


!l! 


Ju 


1^  I  I  ll'  '(I— ll-^ 


i'bu  Laily  Imnklin  Kuy  Lxpeililiuii,  \'i>l   1. 


Plate  IV. 


l''l(i.  1  I.    \'|K\V    ID   I  III    \Vl  ^l    I  KiiNI   III   Ml  III    I'liiKli,      Till-  ("M'l     111   illl-   1  I  I-  I    M  AKKS  WksT 
EXI'KI.MI.  Ill'   llW  Al    IIl.Ali  III'  (iKI.I.l.V   I'liilU).       MaV   Ij,  iSSj. 


KlU.  12.    N'llAV    111   1111^  \Vi  ^1   IIUIM   l-AKlUKal.       -MaV   I4,  iSSj. 


-"^"^ 


vmRiF^^Rn 


?T^r;?trt^««**^; 


I'lli.    15.     l-ARIIII.sr    l.AM)    UN    SoCTII    SlDK    (IRUM    (HT    rRUM    SlIOUK   SdMK    Mll.IvS).      TlllC    AUKllW 

"A"   Marks  a  Skuminc  Hrancii  Fiord  ur   C'iianni;i. ;   "li."   A  I'Rijuaiu.b  Urancii  I'uiru. 
May  15,  iS,S3. 


I'"l(;.  14.    lll.Al)  111   FluKU  IRliM  I'AKTIIl.sl.       CAMI'  X  1 1 1  LU.S  L.MUJi  TllL  ARROW.       .MaV   I4,  1SS3. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


279 


In  conclusion  I  would  say  that  Sergeant  Flrainard  displayeil  liis  wonted  energy  and  discretion  during 
the  trip  and  merits  my  most  favorable  notice.  Christiansen  also  showed  himself  reliable  and  willing,  and  a 
good  dog  driver  in  every  respect. 

I  remain,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  B.  LOCKWOOD, 

StWHt/  Lifuteiumt,  Tiventy-thmi  Infantry^  A.  S.  O. 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

J<)//A  Cavalty,  A.  S,  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding, 


Sledge  journal  of  exploring  trip  to  the  west  toast  of  Crinnell  iMnd^  April  25  to  May  26,  i88j. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  J^une,  1883. 
First  march.  Fort  Conger  to  Sionv  Cape. 

April  25. — At  8  p.  m.  left  the  station  with  the  two  dog-teams,  ten  dogs  each.  Sergeant  Brainard,  Chris- 
tiansen (Eskimo),  and  myselfwith  advance  sledge;  Sergeant  Klison  and  Jens  (Eskimo)  with  supporting  sledge. 
Rations  for  thirty  days.  Total  weight  on  the  two  sledges  about  1,000  pounds,  including  the  hand-sledge 
and  Hudson  Bay  sledge  packed  with  the  loads.  Course  taken  for  the  northwest  extremity  of  Bellot  Island. 
Found  the  snow  soft  and  deep,  but  still  the  dogs  traveled  on  a  trot  and  good  progress  was  made,  though  it 
was  extremely  fatiguing.  We  traveled  on  an  unbroken  expanse  of  snow  for  about  the  first  hour,  when  hum- 
mocks and  rubbleice  were  encountered,  till,  opposite  the  Western  Entrance,  the  large  floe  of  ice  formed  last 
fall  was  gained.  The  dogs  were  quite  satisfied  to  relax  their  pace.  Soon  after  this,  snow  softer  and  deeper 
than  ever  was  encountered  in  the  midst  of  rubble-ice,  in  wlii(  h  the  sledge  went  down  over  the  slats  and 
"stuck"  incessantly.  With  much  work  we  managed  to  gain  the  shore  of  Sun  Land  and  got  along  quite  well 
on  an  ice-foot,  till,  leaving  it  to  cut  across  to  Black  Nob  Point,  this  execrable  snow  was  again  met  with. 
Beyond  this,  however,  in  Basil  Norris  Bay,  the  traveling  became  good,  and  finally  excellent. 

April  26. — At  1.40  a.  m.,  temperature  —  14°  [  —  25.6°  C.];  weather  very  fine. 

Reached  the  depot  tent,  which  was  found  down ;  repitched  it.  Left  the  Hudson  Bay  sledge  and  a  few 
other  articles  intended  for  the  hunting  party.  Delayed  perhaps  a  half  hour,  and  then  turned  towards  Sun 
Bay.  The  snow  overland  found  soft  and  deep,  but  on  the  bay  pretty  good.  At  3.50  a.  m.  reached  Stony 
Cape  and  camped  ;  all  much  fatigued.  Frequent  short  halts  made  during  the  march  for  rest.  Fox  tracks 
seen  in  two  or  three  places  and  fresh  wolf  tracks  near  present  camp,  apparently  from  up  or  across  the  fiord 
and  going  north.  Elison  and  Jens  sleep  in  the  shelter  tent  and  eat  with  us.  Supper  at  5.30  a.  m.,  and 
about  6.30  turned  in. 

Time  en  route,  [•].     Distance  traveled,  [•]. 

Second  march,  Stony  Cape  to  beyond  Hillock  Depot. 

At  4.20  p.  m.  Brainard  lighted  lamp.  Breakfast  at  5.30;  p.  m.,  temperature,  -f  1°  [—17.2°  C] ;  calm  and 
cloudy. 

At  7  p.  m.  started  en  route.  At  8  p.  m.  reached  Cape  Straight  of  Miller  Island,  and  in  two  hours  more 
Keppel  Head.  A  light  crust  on  top  the  snow  and  the  rapid  pace  of  the  dogs  made  it  necessary  to  rest  at 
times.  The  traveling  near  Keppel  Head  rather  better,  and  beyond  that  place  much  more  so.  Two  hours 
more  in  getting  to  Hillock  Depot.  The  dog-food  expected  evidently  eaten  by  foxes.  The  metallic  case 
and  rubber  box  and  contents  put  on  the  sledges,  and  we  continued  on  for  two  hours. 

Aprils"]. — At  3.05  a.  m.,  temperature  — 1°[  — 18.3°  C.];  overcast ;  no  wind.  Camped  by  a  broad  snow - 
coveted  shoulder,  with  gulch  just  beyond  it.  Stranded  hummocks  near  by.  Several  wolf  tracks  seen  during 
the  day  and  a  seal-hole  (small)  between  Miller  Island  and  Stony  Cape;  fox  tracks  near  the  island,  and 
ptarmigan  tracks  at  Hillock  depot.  Under  these  high  cliffs  we  traveled  in  the  shade.  Barometer,  30.20 
[767.07"""]. 


*  Omission  in  original. — A.W.G. 


w^ 


280 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


*•    \ 


I 


Two  days'  rations  left  at  tliis  camj)  (excepting  alcoliol),  the  iJiKlish  metal  box  coming  in  very  conven- 
iently for  the  purpose.  All  this  part  of  the  tionl  is  new  ice,  covered  with  snow,  and  extending  ilown  thus 
probably  as  far  as,  or  below,  Keppel  Head.  IClison  cooked.  At  6.30  a.  m.  turned  in.  'I'emijerature  +5.5 
[  —  14.7°  C.j.    Signs  of  a  coming  storm. 

Time  [•].     Distance  (•  J.     Delays  en  rouk,  nearly  or  about  an  hour. 

Tmun  MARCH,  fkom  Ant)VE  Hillock  Dkhdi-  10  di'pdshk  Dki-ot  I'niNr. 

At  5.20  p.m.  I  lighted  lamp;  6.40, breakfast.  At  7.30 p,  m.  temperature —5.5  [  — JcS^C.];  sky  over- 
cast with  broken  bands. 

At  8  p.  m.  both  sledges  started  forward.  At  9.15  p.m.  the  supporting  sledge  turned  back  after  twenty 
minutes  delay  and  reached  the  depot  tent  in  seven  hours.  The  load  on  the  advanced  sledge  was  now  970 
pounds,  less  food  consumed  and  cached  to  date.  'I"hc  traveling  was  very  good  and  continuing  to  imi)rove. 
'I'he  dogs  drew  the  heavy  load  readily,  tlie  snow  being  vry  light.  It  was  a  great  relief  to  go  at  a  walk, 
wliich  the  heavy  load  now  obliged.  St(jpped  a  few  minutes  in  e.ich  hour  to  rest,  as  breaking  through  the 
snow  crust  made  it  fatiguing.    Several  fox  tracks  seen. 

A/irilii. — At  2.55  a.  m.  camped  about  the  middle  of  the  fiord;  3.30  a.  m.,  temjierature  —5°  [  — 2o.6o{".|. 
Weather  very  fine  ;  bright  and  clear.  The  course  for  tlie  pa  i  four  hours  has  been  directly  towards  Record 
Point,    Traveling  excellent;  6  a.  m.  turned  in.     At  6  a.  m.  temperature  —5°  [  —  20.6°  C.J. 

Time  [•].     Distance  [•]. 

Fourth  march,  from  opposite  Depot  Point  to  head  of  Ella  Ray. 

At  4  p.  m.  Ikainard  lighted  lamp  for  breakfast.  .Vt  6  p.  m,  temperature  —1°  [—  18.0°  C] ;  clear  and 
calm. 

At  6.25  p.  m.  left  camp  with  everything.  Traveling  excellent ;  snow  light  with  moderately  hard  crust. 
In  three-quarters  of  an  hour  reached  cajie  of  BuUey 's  Lump,  nearly  opposite  Depot  Point.  Here  we  delayed 
half  .an  hour,  and  two  bones  showing  Eskimo  workmanshi])  were  found  ;  they  were  very  old. 

April  2C). — At  12.15  'i-'ii-  reached  head  of  Ella  Hay.  Traveling  to  the  west  of  Hulley's  Luni])  not  so 
good;  snow  soft  and  deeper.  After  threeijuarters  of  an  hour  delay  in  pitching  the  tent,  &c.,  I  proceeded 
with  Frederik  Christiansen  and  empty  sledge  up  the  stream  betl.  Found  it  would  be  practicable  to  pro- 
ceed tomorrow  with  the  load  in  this  direction,  and  then  returned  to  the  tent  at  2  a.  m.  Tracks  of  foxes, 
hares,  lemming,  ermine,  i)tarmigan,  and  musk-oxen  seen  in  the  vicinity.  The  last  indicated  the.se  animals 
making  their  way  along  the  shore  towards  Record  Point,  and  were  ipiite  fresh  at  about  three  d.ays  old ;  5  a.  m. 
supper.  Ice  obtained  from  a  hummock  which  had  floated  up  here  from  the  straits.  .Sergeant  Brainard  did 
all  the  cooking  from  this  time  forth.  At  5  a.  m.  temperature  +2°  [—16.7°  C.J;  6  a.  m.,  barometer  30.425 
[7 72. 78' |.     Sky  partly  foggy  and  overcast. 

Time  ['J.     Distance  (to  head  of  bay)  ["J.     Delays  rn  route  \*\. 

Fifth  march,  Ella  Bay  uv  Valley  to  (Ilacier. 

At  6  p.  m.  breakfast.  Temperature  —3°  [—19.4°  C.J;  7  p.m.,  barometer  30.50  [774. 69"""J.  Disap- 
pointed in  not  getting  equal  altitudes,  the  high  cliffs  Iiiding  the  sun.  One  day's  dog-food  and  two  day's  rations 
left  here.  At  8  p.  m.  broke  camp  and  started.  My  intention  was  to  follow  the  valley  known  to  exist  southwest 
of  the  bay  to  the  glacier  at  its  head,  thence  continue  inland  towards  the  west  or  southwest  as  circumstances 
allowed.  We  found  it  difficult  to  follow  the  ice  of  the  stream-bed;  stones  and  deep  snow  also  made  the 
traveling  laborious  for  some  distance,  bat  after  about  an  hour  winding  around  several  of  the  little  hillocks 
and  "  mesas  "  so  common  in  the  water-courses  of  this  country  we  found  ourselves  at  the  near  end  of  the  lake 
seen  by  me  last  summer.  Before  us  to  the  southwest  lay  a  straight  level  valley  about  2  miles  wide,  walled 
in  on  the  south  side  by  high,  steep  cliffs  and  closed  at  its  end  by  a  glacier  about  10  miles  distant.  Along 
its  north  side  extended  a  rather  low  ridge,  becoming  higher  as  it  ran  inlanil.  After  traveling  on  the  lake 
some  distance  I  ascended  this  ridge  with  Sergeant  Brainard  at  a  place  where  its  altitude  by  barometer  was 
only  400  I'eet  [i22°'J.  It  separated  the  lake  from  a  rather  wide  ravine  running  into  the  b.ay.  Beyond  the 
ravine  were  extremely  high  snow-covered  heights.     Saw  the  tracks  of  the  three  musk-oxen  again  j  also  hare, 


*(Jiiiis^i(>ii  ill  iiri(jiiial. — A.  VV.  G. 


THE  LADY  l-'UANKI.IN  WW  KXIMIDITION 


281 


fox,  lemming,  an<l  ptarmigan  tracks.  I  ostimated  tl-.  lak<;  as  \  miles  long;  it  occiipiwl  the  breadth  of  the 
valley  and  was  <  ovfred  with  snow,  lieyond  tiiL  lake  the  ground  was  covercil  with  ice  and  hard  snow 
and  the  dogs  traveled  rapidly.  The  glacier  face  or  wall  se- med  about  lo  feet  [3"'|  high.  I'he  glacier  back 
of  it  rose  at  an  easy  grade  many  times  the  height  of  the  face,  but  it  looked  feasible  to  scale  the  wall  and 
travel  on  the  surface  beyond. 

April 2,0.— \t  1. 10  a.  m.  reached  the  face  of  the  glacier,  having  left  the  team  with  Christiansen  back  about 
one  fourth  mile.  An  irregular  bank  of  snow,  or  more  probably  a  snow-covered  moraine,  varying  in  height, 
but  perhaps  f)n  an  average  one-third  the  height  of  the  wall,  lay  against  and  hid  its  toot.  .Sergeant  Itrainard 
and  I  walked  to  the  top  of  this  and  were  able  there  to  touch  the  wall.  Standing  on  the  toj)  of  this  bank 
Sergeant  Hrainard  from  below  estimated  the  height  above  my  head  as  twenty-five  times  my  own  height.  I 
saw  no  means  of  proceeding  farther — at  present  at  Ij.ast — and  so  returned  to  sledge  and  p  ched  tent.  At  a 
a.  m.  temperature  —95°  [  — 23.i°C.].  At  3  a.  m.  barometer  30.325  [770.24"""].  Sky  clear.  Noticed  a 
decided  fall  in  the  temperature,  due  to  our  proximity  to  the  gKacier.  The  face  of  the  aneroid  barometer 
indicated  .an  altitude  above  the  bay  of  150  feet  [46 "J-  Latitude  80°  59'  42.5",  longitude  70°  41'  west, 
observed. 

Time  [•] ;  distance  [•] ;  delays  en  route  [•]. 

AT   GLACIER. 

At  5.45  p.  m.  (30th),  breakfast.  At  6  p.  m.  temperature  4-4.5"  [— 'S'3°C].  At  7.30  with  Sergeant 
IJrainard  I  left  camp  to  reconnoiter,  with  the  hope  of  fmding  some  w  ay  to  the  top  of  the  glacier  or  up  the 
valley  by  its  flank.  In  forty  minutes  we  were  at  the  south  extremity  of  its  front,  but  here  the  wall  was  seen 
to  exist  all  along  the  flank  or  almost  or  quite  as  high,  a  grand  precipice  of  ire  running  close  to  the  sleep 
incline  forming  the  pedestal  of  the  huge  cliffs.  The  incline  for  many  hundred  feet  up  was  a  mass  of  immense 
rocks  and  bowlders  with  treacherous  cracks  between  full  of  loose  snow.  The  angle  between  the  wall  and 
the  incline  was  full  of  large  fragments  of  ice,  lately  parts  of  the  wall  itself,  making  progress  along  the  flank 
so  diflicult  that  we  took  to  the  bowlders.  By  asing  both  hands  and  feet  we  gained  a  considerable  elevation, 
and  were  able  to  overlook  all  the  lower  part  of  the  glacier.  The  glacier  apparently  occupied  the  whole  bed 
of  the  valley  and  got  higher  and  higher  towards  the  southwe:  t,  till  it  was  lost  in  the  mountain  peaks  which 
seemed  to  wall  in  the  jnd  of  the  valley  some  20  or  30  \iiiles  off  in  that  direction.  As  the  valley  api)ar- 
ently  narrowed  little  or  none  in  width  I  assume  !  that  its  .gradient  remained  the  same,  and  that  the  glacier 
attained  an  immense  depth.  Very  conspicuous  .^as  what  seemed  a  branch  glacier  breaking  throug' 
a  gap  to  the  west  but  a  few  miles  distant.  Near  the  convex  flank  of  the  "  branch  "  its  surface  had  a  very 
sleep  slope  much  broken  up  by  lateral  crevasses.  The  general  surface  seemed  undulating  and  furrowed, 
and  covered  in  places  only  with  a  light  depth  of  snow,  but  near  the  edges  it  sloped  down  very  rapidly.  After 
.seeing  all  this  I  determined  to  gain  the  top  of  the  cliffs  for  a  more  extended  view,  thinking  the  distance 
r.ather  a  short  one.  We  started,  but  more  severe  labor  I  never  experienced.  The  mountain  side  was  exceed- 
ingly steep  and  appeared  interminable.  At*  —  a.  m.  barometer  27.65  [702.30"'"'].  When  the  b.aronieter 
showed  an  elevation  of  2,550  feet  [777"']  I  found  myself  on  a  ledge  of  rocks  from  which  for  some  time  I 
could  get  neither  up  nor  down.  From  here  I  could  see  what  seemed  a  lake  in  the  midst  of  a  glacier,  and 
just  beyond  the  junction  of  the  branch  glacier  referred  to ;  its  level  was  far  below  that  of  the  glacier  sur- 
face on  each  side ;  it  occupied  nearly  the  whole  breadth  of  the  valley  and  was  round  in  form.  Apparently 
it  separated  into  two  parts  what  I  had  hitherto  regarded  as  one  entire  glacier. 

May  I. — At  2.50  a.  m.,  barometer  26.15  [664.20'"""],  reached  what  had  long  seemed  the  summit;  but 
before  me  lay  a  gradually  rising  ice-capped  dome.  However,  progress  was  now  comparatively  easy,  and 
Sergeant  Brainard  appearing  said  the  top  was  about  a  mile  away ;  he  had  already  succeeded  in  reaching  it. 
At  3.45  a.  m.,  barometer  25.25  [641.34"'"'],  we  reached  it  together,  and  stopped  thirty-five  minutes  to  take 
bearings,  &c.  We  had  reached  a  great  height,  but  still  there  were  other  of  these  peculiar  dome-sh.aped 
heights  as  high  or  a  little  higher  within  a  few  miles,  one  to  the  east  and  another  to  the  north,  which  cut  off 
the  view  partly;  the  sky  also  was  somewhat  cloudy.  To  the  south,  and  extending  from  what  seemed  our 
feet  to  a  distance  of  15  or  20  miles  or  more,  occupying  perhaps  15  or  20  degrees  on  either  side  of  the 
meridian,  was  a  maze  of  cone-shaped  mountains  with  many  deep  canons  between  filled  with  glaciers. 


[*(Jmission  in  original. — A.  W.  G.] 


I 


!'{ 


•) 


282 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  whole  triangular  rrea  thus  observed  was  of  a  uniform  white  color,  hardly  broken  by  a  sinf^le  pro- 
truding rock.  The  unbroken  snow  and  ice  so  merged  mountains  and  valleys  together  that 't  was  difficult  lo 
distinguish  anything,  more  especially  as  our  elevation  was  by  no  means  exceptional.  The  snow  covered  the 
face  of  the  country  in  every  direction,  but  appearances  seemed  to  indicate  more  of  it  and  of  ice  to  the  south 
of  an  east  and  west  line  than  to  the  north.  The  Ella  Bay  Valley  seemed  turned  from  its  original  course  by 
a  noticeable  mountain  some  2o  miles  distant,  which  from  its  shape  I  called  Pyramid  Mountain.  There 
the  valley  and  glacier  may  extend  south,  but  the  view  was  cut  off  by  other  elevations.  A  deep  depression 
just  south  of  us  extended  in  the  same  general  direction  as  the  valley.  Near  its  western  extremity  was  a 
large  lake  or  glacier.     The  Garfield  Mountains  and  several  peaks  were  conspicuous. 

Took  the  following  compass  bearings  (magnetic): 

Degrees. 

Pyramid  Mountain  (15  or  20  miles  distant) . ... . ....... 156 

Mount  A  (a  little  to  the  right,  about  same  distance).' 180 

Mount  C  (lofty  and  snow-clad  peak,  perhaps  70  miles  off) 166 

Mount  I)  (estimated  at  20  miles)  loi 

Mount  E  ^large  "  hog-back  "  mountain,  ;.ear  glacier  or  bke) 140 

Mount  F  (twin  peaks,  probably  50  miles).  142 

Garlield  Mountains  (west  end) 259 

("larlield  Mountains  (their  extension  In  the  east  tarthcr  than  this  cut  off) 288 

"Hills"  (a  ran(;e   of  hills  on  near  side  of  Garfield  Mountains) . 234 

Point  west  of  camp ■ .. 250 

Cliffs  norlheas'.  side  of  Simmonds  Bay . , 318 

The  elevation  we  were  on,  which  was  a  "  hog-back,"  the  barometer  made  5,050  feet  [1,539"']  above  sea- 
level  and  ne:;rl)  that  above  tent.  On  the  way  up  I  heard  a  very  loud  crash,  and  looking  back  thought  I 
saw  the  place  where  a.  large  section  of  the  glacier  face  had  fallen  in. 

Returned  to  cani])  by  same  route,  following  a  steep  icy  ravine  .along  its  side.  Observed  the  incessant 
fall  of  rocks  and  stone  to  lower  levels.  At  8.45  a.  in.  reached  the  tent,  and  after  supper  and  making  obser- 
vations turned  in  at  12.40  p.  m.     Christiansen  shot  two  ptarmigan  during  our  absence. 

At  8.45  a.  m., '..arometer  29.85  [758.18"""].  At  12  noon,  temperature  -}- 3.5"  [  —  15.8°  C] ;  barometer, 
29.85  [758.18"""].     At  5.50  p.  m.,  brea!cfast. 

Afiiv  2. — I  sent  Sergeant  Hrainard  to  intert,c>ction  ot  glacier  face  and  valley  on  north  side.  He  advanced 
one  and  a  half  hours,  and  found  route  along  flank  of  glacier  (piite  pr.acticable  for  soine  distance,  but  no  way  of 
flanking  the  glacier  or  attaining  the  surface.     Compass  bearing  north  side  of  BuUey's  Lump,  333°. 

Approximate  height  of  face  per  angle  and  distance  paced  off,  160  feet  [49°']. 


ca_ 


StctioH  0/  fact  of  glaciir. 
•  a.  Rilgc  n(  top,  oTerhan|;lnf;  in  places,  as  it  appeared         </.  Apparent  snow-bank,  but  probably  moraine  covered 
from  below.  with  snow. 

t.  Pure  ice  of  n  beautiful  Krcen  color.  t.  Level  of  valley,  scattered  bowlders  and  lumps  of  let. 

c.  Ice,  white  and  chocolate  color,  full  of  small  stones  and 
streaks  of  mud  or  earth. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDTTTON. 


283 


Remained  in  camp  all  day,  occupied  with  observations,  &c.  A 1 1 2.30  a.  m.,  temperature  + 1°  f  —  1 7.2°  C] ; 
barometer,  29.60  [7  5 1. 83  """J;  sky  overcast.  At  8.40  a.m.,  temperature  +11°  [—11.7°  C] ;  barometer,  29.58 
[75'-32"""].  At  12  noon,  temperature  +65°  [—14.2°  C.];  barometer,  29.57  [751.06'""'];  at  2.20 p.  m.,  tem- 
perature +  1°  [— «7'2°  C.];  barometer,  29.04  [752.84"""]. 

Sixth  march,  Glacier  back  to  Ella  Bay. 

At  8  p.  m.,  temperr.ture  zero  [  —  17.8°  C.].  At  8.20  p.  m.  broke  camp  and  started.  There  appeared 
nothing  to  do  but  try  the  valley  of  Beatrix  Bay  or  Simmonds  Bay.  The  valley  between  the  glacier  and 
lake  is  generally  very  level  and  covered  with  small  stones ;  it  was  once  probably  covered  by  the  glacier. 
Several  ravines  on  the  left  were  examined  c/i  route,  to  find  if  they  afforded  a  practicable  route  for  sledge  or 
pack,  but  they  seemed  very  unf;ivorable.     Fox  and  hare  tracks  seen. 

May  3. — At  12.35  '^*  '"•  ^^"^"^ '"'°  camp  near  old  camp.  One  of  the  dogs  ate  up  a  piece  (several  feet)  of 
Christiansen's  whip.     At  3,30  a.  m.,  turned  in.     At  3.30  a.  m.,  temperature  —1 1°  [  —  23.9°  C.|;  barometer, 

3°-°S  [7'^3-26"""J' 

Time,  4  hours,  15  minutes  :  delays,  50  minutes;  distance,  10  miles. 

Seventh  march,  Ella  Bay  to  Beatrix  Bay. 

At  5.30  p.  m.,  breakfast.  Weather  bright  and  clear  e>.cept  to  the  west,  where  fog  and  clouds  still  remain. 
Took  some  angles  for  height  of  immense  cliff  on  south  side  bay;  height,  4,097  feet  [1,2  1.9'" |.  At  (■>  ji.  m., 
temperature  —4"  [—20.0°  C.];  barometer,  30.17  [766.30"""];  sky  sliglitly  overcast.  Broke  camp  and  st.nrted. 
Stopped  at  Record  Point  and  left  a  notice  in  the  F^nglish  cairn.     Several  hare  tracks  here. 

May  4. — Found  the  snow  in  Beatrix  Bay  nuicli  harder.  Near  head  of  bay  is  a  floe  of  [)aleorrystic  ice. 
Immensely  high  clilTs  on  all  sides,  their  summits  covered  with  snow  and  ice;  a  miniature  glacier  in  one 
place.  At  1.25  a.  m.  reached  head  of  bay  and  camped.  Christiansen  saw  a  ptarmigan  at  Record  Point  flying 
overhead.  At  5  a.  m.  turned  in.  Marches  short  and  taken  leisurely,  as  when  we  abandon  th-;  sledge,  whether 
for  the  small  sledge  or  packs,  there  will  be  more  rations  than  we  can  take  along. 

At  1.25  a.  m.,  temperature  —8°  [  —  22.2°  C.];  at  2.25  a.  ni.,  barometer  30.09  [764.27"""];  at  4.40  a.  m,, 
temperature  —13.0°  [  —  25.0°  C.|.  Sun  shining  brightly,  calm.  Latitude,  81'  09'  50",  longitude,  70°  31'  \V. 
(observed). 

Time,  5  hours,  25  minutes.     Delays,  40  minutes.     Distance,  13  miles. 

At  Beatrix  Bay. 

At  5  p.  m.,  barometer  30.22  [767.57""];   clear  .md  bright.     At  5.30  p.  m.,  breakfast.     At  6  p.m.. 

temperature  —2°  [— i8.9°C.];  at  6.45  ]>.  m.,  barometer  30.22  [767.57 ].     At  O.jj  I  started  with  Sergeant 

Brainard  to  reconnoiter  the  valley,  leaving  sledge,  &c.  We  walked  ui)  about  four  miles  to  a  projecting 
"shoulder,"  a  long  ridge  extending  nearly  across  the  valley,  and  sloping  from  nearly  the  top  of  the  clifls  to 
a  level  witii  the  sttt!am-bed.  These  shoulders  are  very  common  in  this  country;  this  was  the  third  from 
cami)  on  the  north  side.  The  valley  Is  .nbout  one  and  a  half  or  two  miles  wide  and  walletl  in  on  each 
side  by  precipitous,  gigantic  cliffs;  it  should  ratl'.er  be  called  a  canon.  Raised  "  beaches"  were  very  notice- 
able, and  one  at  the  mouth  of  a  gorge  to  tlie  south  was  very  wide.  Between  the  "  shoulders"  and  beaches 
tlie  stream-bed  followed  its  winding  way.  These  beaches  are  covered  with  small  stones  very  evenly  laid, 
the  slioulders  with  large  angular  rocks.  Bordering  the  stream-bed  in  one  place  were  several  miniature 
"mesas"  composed  of  fine  dirt  about  the  height  of  the  beach  at  its  lower  edge,  or  20  to  30  feet  [6  to  9"'|. 
Could  only  identify  Mount  Neville  .as  the  elevated  "hog-back"  back  of  the  cliffs  about  two  miles  up  the 
valley.  Elevation  of  stream-bed  four  miles  from  bay  300  feet  [91'"].  Saw  fox.ermine,  and  ptarmigan  tracks, 
but  no  hare  tracks;  saw  one  ptarmigan.  From  the  shoulder  reached,  the  valley  was  seen  to  run  in  a  north- 
west direction  to  a  don.e-shaped  elevation,  where  it  api)arently  eiuled,  nine  or  ten  miles  from  the  bay.  This 
I  afterwards  called  Mount  Easy,  Reached  hut  on  return,  after  taking  several  com|)ass  sights,  at  midnight. 
Am  still  feeling  ([uite  stiff  and  sore  frc  n  the  effects  of  Mount  Oilticult.  Christiansen  went  hunting  but  without 
success, 

Mav  5. — Eighth  march  (to  Mount  Easy). 

At  6  p.  m.,  breakfast.  At  8  p.  m.  broke  camp  and  started  up  the  valley.  Foimd  ice  under  the  snow 
in  the  stream-bed  ami  made  good  progress.    Just  beyond  farthest  reached  yesterday  we  traveled  over  a  lake 


lilt 


!  !■- 


!    J  I 


Ul  i 


i\ 


ii: 


■i  i 


284 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


about  a  mile  long.  At  10.30  p.m.,  when  about  two  miles  from  Mount  Easy,  the  valley  suddenly  narrowed  to 
about  one-quarter  of  a  mile,  and  for  400  yards  [366'"]  was  covered  with  large  rocks.  It  was  necessary  to 
•'double  up,",and  we  were  an  hour  getting  everything  to  the  farther  side.  Beyond  the  traveling  was  good, 
but  we  shortly  came  to  the  end,  and  after  working  up  a  steep  ravine  full  ot  rocks  for  some  distance,  went  into 
camp  at  1 1.55  p.  m.,  it  being  hardly  pr.icticable  to  proceed  farther.     Elevr  tion  of  camp  700  feet  [213'"]. 

At  3.30  a.m.,  temperature  —11.5° [  —  24.2°  C.];  barometer,  30.22 [76/. 57"""].  At  6.40  a.  m.,  tempera- 
ture —  5.5°  [  —  208°  C.];  barometer,  30.27  [768.84"""].  At  11.35  a.m.,  temperature  o°[— 17.8°  C.];  barome- 
ter, 30.22  [767.57"""!. 

At  7  p.  m.,  temperature  —2°  [  —  18.90  C.J;  barometer,  30.22  [767.57"""];  clear  with  light  wind  down 
thevalley.  At  11  p.  ni.,  temperature —2.5°  [—19.2°  C.].  Weather  clear,  but  windy.  At  12  midnight,  tem- 
perature —  12°  [  —  24.4°  C.].     Latitude,  81°  16'  59",  longitude,  70°  46"  VV.  (observed). 

Time,  3  hours,  55  minutes.     Delays,  55  minutes.     Distance,  9  miles. 

May  6. — Ascent  of  Mount  Easy. 

At  I  a. m., temperature  -1-2.5°  [— i6.4°C.];  barometer,  29.41  [747.00'"""].  At  3  a.m.,  temperature  -|-i° 
[—  1 7.2°  C.J ;  barometer,  29.48  [748.78'""].  With  Sergeant  Urainard  I  left  at  3  a.  m.  We  ascended  a  '•ocky 
height  on  west  side  of  the  ravine  and  saw  before  us  to  the  north  what  seemed  a  water-shed  or  divide,  a  level 
plain  much  above  the  elevation  of  the  tent,  bounded  on  the  east  and  west  by  high  mountains  and  to  the 
north  by  a  line  of  cliffs,  the  top  of  which  only  could  be  seen,  evidently  indicating  a  wide  valley  or  lake. 
Traveling  in  this  direction  we  soon  came  to  a  lake  occupying  the  farther  side  of  the  plain.  Crossing  this 
obliquely  to  the  left  we  reached  a  long,  gently  sloping  ridge,  which  promised  an  easy  ascent  to  the  mountain. 
The  barometer  (4.15  a.  m.,  29.00  1736.59"""])  made  the  elevation  of  the  lake  above  sea-level  about  1,100 
feet  [33S"'J.  I  estimated  the  lake  as  aljout  four  miles  long  and  one  and  a  half  or  two  miles  wide;  in  places 
wliere  the  ice  was  exposed  near  shore  it  was  so  transparent  that  the  stones  could  be  seen  at  the  bottom 
through  tlie  ice,  7  or  8  feet  [about  2'"J  in  thickness.  The  surface  of  the  ridge  or  shoulder  by  which  we 
ascended  the  mountain  comprised  many  nv/irs  moiitouiies  or  rocks  of  that  appearance.     Summit  reached  at 

6.05  a.  m.     Barometer,  27.25  [692.14 J.     Elevation  per  barometer,  2,900  feet  [884"'].     Compass  bearings 

(magnetic)  as  follows: 

Degrees. 

Fii-st  shoulder  above  Beatrix  Bay . 63^ 

Very  lii^h  dome  shapeil  mountain,  20  miles  or  more  di.stant,  and  doubtless  south  of  fiord 62^ 

"  Hoj;  back,"  al)()ut  10  miles  distant 118 

Distant  dome-shaped  mountain,  just  above  horii^on,  about  40  miles  away 206 

South  extreme  chain  of  mountains 211 

Between  this  and  former  a  very  distant  peak;  two  dark-looking  cliffs,  probably  40  miles 224 

From  this  point  to  304°  extends  a  continuous  mountain  chain,  lost  at  either  extreme  by  swell  of  horizon. 
In  this  chain  at  262°  appears  what  is  doubtless  a  large  glacier,  and  beyond  glacier,  seen  through  a  depression 
and  much  further  away,  what  I  take  for  the  United  States  Range.  In  same  chain  at  247°  are  two  or  three 
conspicuous  jjeaks.  Towards  Klla  Bay  the  country  had  a  very  glacial  appearance — a  glacier  wall  seen  in 
that  direction.  At  8  a.  m.,  barometer  27.22  [691.38'""'].  Returned  to  tent  through  a  ravine  on  south  side 
after  two  hours  spent  on  the  summit.  Reached  tent  at  9.50  a.  m. ;  temi)erature,  -f  10°  [—1 2.2°  C.];  barom- 
eter, 29.55  [750.56' ].     Sui)perat  11.15  a.  m. ;  turned  in  at  12  noon;  temperature, -f- 12°  [—11.1°  C.].     Sky 

clear;  north  wind. 

PRELIMINARY    JOURNEY   TO    MUSK-OX    VALlEV. 

The  cliffs  seen  to  the  not' 1  from  the  lake  coula  be  seen  from  the  mountain  to  mark  a  long  valley  or 
lake  exten<iing  ajiparently  east  and  west.  This  and  tlie  ravine  soutli  of  the  mountain  each  offered  a  way  of 
getting  west  by  using  the  small  slcilge.  I  decided  to  make  a  preliminary  journey  to  the  former  before, 
adojjting  either  route.  At  10.45  !'•  '"•'  breakfast;  11. 15  p.  m.,  temperature  -|-6°  [  —  14.4°  C] ;  barometer, 
29.60  [751.83 ]. 

May  7. — At  1 2.10  a.  m.,  putting  the  dogs  to  the  litUe  sledge,  with  no  load  at  all,  we  started  from  camp. 
Reached  the  "plain"  after  about  a  mile  tiirough  the  rocky  ravine  above  camp,  and  soon  came  to  the  lake 
and  took  a  course  north.  The  lake  appeared  to  drain  south.  After  we  had  crossed  it  we  entered  a  water- 
course flowing  from  it  directly  to  the  valley.    Traveled  very  rapidly,  and  in  one  hour  from  camp  reached 


,U-.-tl  ..WJM 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


285 


within  one-half  mile  of  the  valley.  Another  hour  occupied  in  getting  down.  It  was  necessary  to  take  the 
dogs  out  and  partly  carry,  partly  pull  the  sledge  through  and  over  the  great  bowlders  filling  the  gorge,  Avhich 
was  here  very  precipitous.  The  course  of  the  valley  to  the  left  was  (approximately)  S.  66°  W. ;  to  the  right 
N.  35°  E.  (true),  this  for  a  distance  of  5  to  10  miles  in  either  direction.  The  valley  appeared  about  3  miles 
or  more  wide ;  cliffs  and  precipitous  mountains  walled  it  in. 

Turned  to  the  right  and  proceeded  for  two  hours  what  proved  to  be  down  the  valley.  In  this  time, 
which  was  equal  to  about  7  miles,  its  elevation  fell  about  120  feet  [36"').  The  water  evidently  covers  a  wide 
surface;  in  some  places  very  shallow,  but  in  others  we  traveled  over  small  lakes  and  ice  7  feet  [2'"]  or  more 
thick,  very  transparent.  Musk-ox  droppings  (old)  were  observed  continually.  A  snow-bird  was  seen,  several 
hares,  and  a  great  many  fox  tracks,  &c.  At  the  farthest  reached,  the  valley  obli(iues  to  the  right  a  few 
miles,  then  to  the  left  around  a  high  cliff,  and  is  lost  to  sight.  Here  four  musk-oxen  were  seen.  One, 
which  proved  to  be  a  female  containing  a  well-developed  calf,  was  shot,  and  the  others  driven  off.  The 
meat  put  on  the  sledge,  and,  after  the  dogs  had  stuffed  themselves,  we  turned  back. 

Took  several  compass  bearings  in  the  valley.  Got  out  of  the  valley  by  a  ravine  about  2  miles  to  the 
west  of  the  one  by  which  we  had  entered  it.  The  ascent  was  much  longer,  but  the  rocks  and  stones  were 
comparatively  few.  However,  very  deep  snow  was  met  in  a  surface  drain  on  top.  The  meat  was  left  in 
cache  in  the  valley.  An  immensely  high  'hog-back"  lies  just  east  of  the  lake;  this  we  skirted  around  in 
returning.  The  tent  was  reached  at  10.30  a.  m. — four  hours  returning.  At  3.30  p.  m.,  turned  in,  after 
making  all  arrangements  for  forward  trip  with  little  sledge. 

At  2.3s  a.  m.,  barometer  30.10  [764.53"""];  4.30  a.  m., barometer  30,22  [767.57"'"'];  11.30  a.  m.,  temper- 
ature +  i5.5°[— 9,2°C.];  barometer,  29.83  I7S7.67"'"'];  3  p.  m.,  temperature  +11°  [—11.7°  C.];  barometer, 
29-83  [757-67"""J- 


Ninth  march  (small  sledge,  shelter  tent,  &c.).  Mount  Easy  to  Musk-Ox  Vallev. 

May  8. — .\t  12,15  ^-  m., breakfast.  The  outfit  consisted  of  small  .sledge  (weight  25  pounds),  shelter 
tent,  sleeping-bags,  snow-shoes,  &c,,  and  knapsacks  for  proceeding  without  sledge,  if  necessary,  1 13  pounds 
pemmican  (dog-food),  and  1 1  days'  rations  cut  down  to  lowest  limit,  on  which  I  contemplated  advancing  six 
days;  total  weight  on  sledge,  330  pounds.  The  A  tent  was  left  standing  by  large  sledge.  The  sledge- 
runners  had  been  so  much  worn  the  previous  day,  and  the  prospective  rocks  were  so  many,  that  I  was  afraid 
of  attempting  more. 

At  3  a.  m.  started  from  camp ;  the  dogs  in  excellent  condition.  Got  up  to  the  plain  without  very  much 
work.  From  the  farther  side  of  the  lake  I  sent  Christiansen  to  reach  the  valley  by  the  detour  of  yesterday, 
while  Sergeant  Brainard  and  I  kept  straight  on  by  the  outward  route  and  reached  valley  at  5.30  a.  m.,  but 
after  going  up  stream  some  distance,  seeing  nothing  of  the  sledge,  we  returned.  It  was  nearly  two  hours 
more  before  the  sledge  came  in  sight  and  reached  "  Rocky  Gully."  Christiansen  had  shot  a  hare,  and 
also  added  to  the  load  tiie  shot-gun  and  the  musk-ox  meat  left  in  cache.  We  all  proceeded  westward.  We 
traveled  at  times  over  very  thick,  clear  ice,  and  at  times  over  large  areas  of  stones  covered  lightly 
with  snow;  it  was  difficult  to  exactly  follow  the  stream  bed.  Many  t-rrace  formations,  "raised  beaches," 
along  route.  The  tributary  water-courses  to  this  stream  are  narrow  ravines  or  gorges,  some  very  pre- 
cipitous. At  9  a.  m.  stopped  to  camp  about  six  miles  from  "  Rocky  Gully."  A  mountain  about  ten  miles  up- 
stream seems  to  close  the  valley  in  that  direction.  Abundant  musk-ox  droppings  (old)  seen;  also  the  fresh 
tracks  of  two  or  three  animals.  One  quarter  of  meat  cached  here,  with  rations  and  the  hare,  two  fed  to 
dogs,  and  the  fourth,  cut  from  bone,  to  be  taken  along.     At  12.45  P-  '"•  turned  in. 

At  5.35  a, m., barometer  30.20  [767.07  "'"];  7.25  a.  m,,  barometer  30.18  [766.56"'"'] ;  9.30  a.  m.,  temper- 
ature, +9°  [-  12.8°  C.];  barometer,  30.J0  [764.53"""];  ir.45  a.  m.,  temperature  13.5  [—10.3°  C.];  barometer, 
30.10  [764.53],  Weather  very  fine;  sun  bright  and  no  wind.  Latitude,  81-'  18'  25",  lon^'^itude,  71°  01'  W. 
(observed). 

Time,  5  hours,  55  minutes.     Delays,  30  minutes.     Distance,  12  miles. 

Tenth  march,  up  Musk-ox  Valley. 

May  9,— At  12.15  ^'  "!•)  the  sledge  being  packed,  .Sergeant  Hrainard  and  I  started  from  camp.  Chris- 
tiansen started  to  follow  shortly  afterwards,  but  as  he  did  so,  the  dogs  going  on  a  gallop  down  the  little 


I'f; 


286 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  15AY  EXPEDITION. 


1       I 

I  I 


terrace  made  such  a  short  turn  on  its  steep  slope  of  hard  snow  that  the  sledge  overturned  and  rolled  over 
and  over  till  it  reached  the  river-bed.  The  knapsacks  seemed  the  only  alternative  now  left,  the  upriglits 
of  one  runner  being  broken  short  offin  their  mortises.  It  was  patched  up,  however,  and  after  half  an  hour's  delay 
we  proceeded  again,  We  followed  the  stream  for  upwards  of  two  hours,  moving  very  ftist  for  some  time 
over  little  lakes  of  smooth,  clear  ice,  when  we  came  to  the  mountain  last  r-'ferred  to.  A  narrow,  stony  gap 
between  it  and  the  lorth  bank  of  the  valley  offered  a  route  for  some  distance  at  least  farther  towards  the 
west,  but  what  seem  ;d  the  main  valley  turned  off  in  a  canon  towards  the  sojtli.  Spent  over  two  hours  in  a 
reconnaissance  and  concluded  to  take  the  gaj).  The  canon  seemed  to  end  at  a  large  glacier  and  to  drain 
the  ice-covered  mountains  towards  its  source  perhaps  eight  miles  or  more  away.  I  took  numerous  compass 
bearings.  After  a  delay  for  Christiansen  who  had  got  on  the  track  of  a  hare,  we  proceeded.  Great 
numbers  of  fresh  tracks  of  all  kinds  (except  musk-ox)  seen,  and  many  oUl  traces  'if  the  latter.  A  good 
deal  of  grass,  &c.,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  gai),  but  beyond  this  the  bed  was  of  large  rocks,  between  which 
one's  foot  would  sometimes  go  up  to  the  thigh.  After  an  hour's  travel  Sergeant  Hrainard,  who  was  ahead  of 
the  other,  reported  to  me  that  the  sledge-runner  could  hartlly  be  made  to  stand,  flopping  over  continually; 
so  at  6.40  a.  m.  we  camjied.  The  runner  was  fixed  as  well  as  could  be.  Saw  a  snow-bird  near  tlie  canon. 
Not  much  snow  in  the  valley,  comparatively.     Turned  in  at  i  p.  u  . 

At  »2  30  a.  m.,  temperature 4.5°  [—  15.3°  C.j;  cold  west  1.     At  i  a.  m  ,  barometer  30.08  1764.02"""]; 

8.15  a.  m.,  tem])erature  +5°  [  —  15.0°  C.J;  barometer,  26.62  [752.33"""];  12  noon,  temperature  12.5°  [—10. 2" 
C.];  barometer,  29.60  [751.83"""].  At  10.30  [).  m.,  breakfast.  At  1 1.15  p.  m.,  temperature  +7°  [  —  13.9°  C.]; 
barometer,  29.38  [746.24"""].  At  12  p.  m.,  temperature +4.5°  [  —  15.3°  C.].  Clear  and  calm.  Latitude, 
8i°  15'  35",  longitude,  71°  46'  W.  (observed). 

Time,  6  hours,  30  minutes.     Delays,  3  hours,  30  minutes.     Distance,  8  miles. 

Eleventh  march,  fro.m  Gap  to  Glacier. 

May  10. — At  12.20  a.  m.  broke  camp  and  started.  Left  stream-bed,  but  followed  its  course  on  snowy 
..lope  on  south  side.  After  traveling  about  2^4  miles  stopped  and  made  cache  of  two  days'  food;  also  left 
the  ax  and  snow-shoes.  Sledge-runner  apparently  still  very  weak  though  mended  at  camp.  Left  Sergeant 
Brainard  to  continue  with  sledge  while  1  ascended  the  heights  to  the  left-oblique.  Gained  a  con.sideiable 
elevation  and  had  cpiite  an  extensive  view.  Took  compass  bearings.  Mount  Easy  and  the  great  "  hogbacks  " 
in  that  direction  recognized  and  the  farthest  reached  down  the  river.  Towards  the  southeast  and  south  the 
land  was  very  high  and  appeared  ice-capped.  The  "south  branch"  glacier  was  quite  distinct.  To  the 
southwest  the  horizon  presented  a  series  of  ice-capped  domes  with  the  ice  wall  of  a  glacier  running  about 
east  and  west  and  marking  the  northern  limit  of  immense  areas  of  ice.  Farther  to  the  right  extended  from 
my  present  position  towards  the  WSW.,  for  perhaps  twenty  miles,  a  long,  narrow  plain  or  val'ey,  bounded  on 
each  side  by  low  ranges  of  hills.  It  seemed  to  be  an  extension,  beyond  the  gap,  of  Musk-ox  Valley.  Its  end 
was  closed  in  apparently  by  a  mountain;  above  and  beyond  this  mountain  was  an  elevated  "swell"  of  the 
horizon,  in  a  de|)ression  of  which  I  could  see  what  I  took  for  a  snow  bank.  To  the  right  of  this  the  sector 
of  the  circle  seemed  to  embrace  a  low  country,  comparatively,  covered  with  snow  but  not  ice.  Joined  sledge 
at  1.50  a.  m.  at  west  end  of  gap.  At  1.50  a.  m.,  barometer  29.18  [741.16"""].  Sergeant  Hrainard  had 
encountered  rocks  and  stones  and  then  met  a  small  lake.  The  valley  before  us  was  evidently  the  continua- 
tion of  this  stream.  The  "snow  bank"  made  the  objective  point  and  we  proceeded.  Valley  about  two 
miles  wide;  large  areas  of  it  very  level  and  showing  a  surface  of  small  stones  through  the  snow.  The  dogs 
traveled  at  a  rapid  trot,  very  satisfactory  but  very  tiresome.  Old  musk-ox  droppings  and  traces  of  hares  and 
foxes  seen.  Farther  west  we  traveled  on  a  lake  several  miles  long.  "Raised  beaches"  observed,  but  not 
particularly  prominent.  At  5  a.  m.  came  to  a  break  in  the  low  hills  on  left  flank  and  saw  a  long  glacier  wall 
evidently  connected  with  wall  previously  seen;  it  seemed  to  extend  parallel  with  the  valley  and  just  south  of 
the  "  hills."  The  end  of  the  valley  was  a  few  miles  to  the  front.  Turned  to  the  left,  following  the  streambeil 
and,  getting  well  in  towards  the  glacier  wall,  again  turned  to  the  right. 

At  7.15  a.m.  camped  a  few  yards  from  wall  ami  about  on  a  line  with  last  camp  and  "snow  hank." 
Fresh  tracks  of  five  musk-oxen  seen  just  before  camping;  tracks  came  from  the  north  anil  the  animals 
])rol)al)ly  on  their  way  east.  Approximate  height  of  glacier  wall  here,  per  angle  and  distance  paced,  143 
feet  [44'"].    At  I  p.  m.  turned  in. 


I 


THE  LADY  FRA.XKLIN  BAY  EXPKDITION. 


287 


At  2.50  a.m.,  barometer  29.12  [yjQ.ej"""!;  3.35  a.  m.,  29.10  [739.  i3'""'];  8.10  a.  m.,  temperature  17.5" 
1-8.10  c.|;  barometer,  29.73  [7S5.i3"'"'J-  Latitude,  81° 08'  t^', longitude,  73''4i' W.  (observed).  At  12.30 
p.  m.,  temperature  +17.5"  [—8.1°  C.];  barometer,  28.73  [729-73'""'J-  Very  strong  west  wind  blowing  for 
some  liours. 

Time,  6  hours,  55  minutes;  delays,  45  minutes;  distance,  21  miles. 

Twelfth  march,  over  "divide"  of  Grinnei.l  Land. 

May  II. — Breakfast  about  i  a.  m.  Two  of  the  dogs  got  at  the  pemniican  under  the  sledge  during  our 
sleep  and  ate  about  a  dozen  pounds  of  it.  Cached  one  day's  dog-food  here.  At  i.35  a.  m.  broke  camp  and 
started,  following  along  the  foot  of  glacier  wall.  Wall  varies  little  in  height.  The  route  gradually  ascended. 
About  three  miles  from  camp  crossed  a  small  lake;  stream  running  into  it  from  north.  Musk-ox  tracks 
observed,  apparently  from  the  north  and  going  east.  At  four  miles  from  camp  we  were  opposite  "  snow  bank  " 
of  yesterday — simply  the  wall  with  snow  bank  at  its  foot.  At  the  lake  the  wall  is  lost  in  one  place,  the  glacier 
sloping  down  to  the  ice  of  the  lake;  some  apparently  submerged  sections  of  the  former  rise  above  the  surface 
like  the  ice  off  an  "  ice-foot."  The  glacier  could  here  have  been  ascended,  apparently.  There  are  also  one  or 
t*o  places  a  few  miles  farther  on  where  the  wall  exhibits  this  peculiarity — short  spaces  of  a  few  yards.  From 
position  at  4  a.  m.  (about  a  mile  north  of  "snow  bank"),  on  the  side  of  an  elevated  "  hog-back,"  took  the 
following  bearings: 

Degrees. 

Clift'  at  iiUerseclion  of  gap  with  Musk-ox  Valley j...  356 

Elevated  "hog-back"  to  lelt  of  Mount  Easy _ i 

Mount  Ea-sy... .- ----  359 

High  snow  or  ice-cappeddome,  somewhat  farther  ofl' 2 

Another  to  its  right 3 

Two  long  "swells,"  very  high  ;  still  farther  to  the  right: 

First 22 

Second 24^ 

(These  are  at  least  50  miles  distant.) 

Right  extreme  of  clilTs 177 

Left  extreme 163 

Immensely  high,  white,  dome-shaped mounfoin  top,  just  seen  above  horizon,  perhaps  75  miles  distant.    148^ 

From  this  position  the  ice-cap  to  the  south  seemed  to  extend  to  the  east  and  west  indefinitely  ;  a  few 
miles  to  the  south  it  formed  the  horizon,  rising  to  a  greater  elevation  than  ourselves.  To  the  west  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  distant  was  a  line  of  cliffs  running  apparently  N\V.  and  SE.,  and  seeming  to  indicate  a  valley 
or  lake.  To  the  north  could  be  seen  only  a  few  hundred  yards.  Walking  in  this  direction  a  couple  of 
miles,  the  barometer  fell  to  27.36  [694.93'"'"].  A  large  lake  made  its  appearance  to  the  northwest,  somewhat 
of  a  round  form,  probably  ten  miles  across.  Two  or  three  canon- like  inlets  or  outlets  connecte'.l  with  it  on 
the  north  and  west;  also  one  to  the  south  connec'ing  it  with  the  glacier.  The  view  to  the  .soiuh  simply  put 
the  ice-bound  horizon  farther  away.  All  to  the  north  of  the  glacier  seemed  simply  gromv!  covered  with  a 
light  depth  of  snow.  That  on  which  we  walked  was  very  hard,  and  ice  in  small  jKitches  showed  itself,  but 
stones  were  all  around.  The  surface  was  very  smooth.  Christiansen,  with  the  sledge,  followed  the  general 
direction  of  the  glacier,  and  having  got  to  the  west  of  Sergeant  Brainard  and  myself,  waited  till  we  came  up. 
At  6  a.  m.,  about  six  miles  from  camp,  observed  a  mountain,  triangular  shaped,  bearing  255°;  it  was  east  of 
the  large  lake  a  short  distance ;  thought  it  possibly  Mount  Arthur.  An  hour  later,  after  traveling  rapidly 
down  hill,  we  found  ourselves  on  a  small  lake  by  glacier  wail.  This  lake  is  connected  with  large  lake  by  a 
small  stream.     Fresh  musk-ox  droppings  and  tracks  seen  here  and,  also,  some  distance  back. 

Two  or  three  miles  farther  on  we  reached  another  small  lake  with  large  cake's  ind  blocks  of  ice  on  its 
surface  here  and  th'jre,  doubtless  detachments  from  the  glacier  wall.  Here  the  wall  inclined  towards  the 
south  for  some  n-iles.  Reaching  the  end  of  the  lake  we  turned  to  Uje  rightoblinue  in  order  to  gain  a 
particular  cliff  seen  through  a  depression  from  the  "  divide."  The  lake-glacici  ,,tream  forms  the  middle  of 
a  wide  valley  and  we  now  commenced  the  ascent  of  its  western  side,  following  a  shallow  but  steep  ravine 
full  of  deep,  sofl  snow.  At  its  source,  in  the  depression  referred  to,  was  another  lake  forming  a  basin  in  a 
seeming  mountain  range.  At  the  west  end  of  this  lake  we  found  a  ravine  leading  directly  towards  "  the 
clip, '  and  apparently  draining  it  in  that  direction.     Followed  this  some  time,  till  it  became  a  gorge  and  a 


V\) 


'I' 
1. 1 


iii 


\\ 


i  m 


11 


L 


111 


I  I 


288 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION, 


very  steep  snow  bank,  60  feet  [18'"]  down  by  measurement,  stopped  farther  advance.  Made  some  exami- 
nation of  the  locality,  and  then  retracing  steps  a  few  yards,  camped  at  9.50  a.  ni.  A  snow-binl  seen  on  the 
"  divide."  At  3.45  p.  m.  turned  in.  More  or  less  deep  snow  on  all  the  lakes  crossed,  &c.,  but  generally  the 
traveling  during  the  march  very  good. 

At  12.30  a.  ni  ,  t.-mpcratiire  15.5°  [—9.2°  C.J;  barometer,  28.71  [729.22' ].    At  7.15  a.m.,  barometer 

28.52  [724.39"""] ;  8.10  a.  m.,  28.35  [720.08"""].  Latitude,  81°  05'  10"  N.,  longitude,  74°  41'  W.  (observed]. 
At  II  a.  m,  temperature  16.5°  [  —  8.6  C.|  barometer,  28.47  [723.12"""].  Weather  fine.  At  12.30  p.  m.,  tem- 
perature, 17.0°  [ — 8.3°  C.];  barometer,  28.43  [722.11 ].  At  3.15  p.  m.,  temperature  18.5°  [—7.5°  C] ;  ba- 
rometer 28.43  [722.11"""]. 

Time,  7  hours,  15  minutes;  delays,  i  hour,  45  minutes;  distance,  13  miles. 

Thirteenth  march,  from  Snow  Bank  to  near  Fiord. 

May  12. — At  i  a.  m.,  breakfast.  At  2.15  a.  m.,  temperature  -f  21°  [—6.1°  C.|;  barometer,  28,375 
[720.7 1"""(.  Calm,  cloudy.  At  2.45  a.  m.  started  from  camp.  The  sledge  was  readily  lowered  down  the 
bank  (with  load)  by  means  of  the  long  seal  thong,  and  the  dogs  pushed  over  after  it.  Helow  this  the 
ravine  was  quite  steep  and  full  of  ice  and  hard  snow,  so  that  for  half  a  mile  one  of  us  guided  the  sledge 
while  the  other  two  held  it  back  by  means  of  the  long  line.  It  finally  got  away  with  the  guide  and  went 
several  hundred  yards  by  itself.  At  4  a.  m.,  barometer  29.37  [74S.98"""].  We  got  down  a  thousand  feet 
[305"' I  '"  I'^ss  than  an  hour,  and  at  4  a.  m.  were  in  a  narrow  valley  walled  in  by  immense  high  and 
precipitous  cliflfs.  The  route  seemed  to  be  the  only  possible  one  by  which  the  descent  could  have  been 
accomplished.  Two  other  ravines  entered  this  valley  or  canon  here,  but  they  contained  precipices  of  snow 
extremely  high.  The  valley  came  from  the  north,  but  its  continuation  in  that  direction  could  be  seen  only 
a  few  miles;  cliffs  down  stream,  indicating  its  mouth,  lay  in  a  southwest  direction.  Its  gradient  was  quite 
small.     At  4.40  a.  m.,  temperature  25.5°  [—3.6°  C.j ;  barometer,  29.56  [750.81"""]. 

After  some  delay  we  started  down-stream  at  a  rapid  pace,  the  dogs  with  difficulty  being  prevented  from 
going  on  a  gallon  all  the  time.  The  view  was  continually  shut  out  by  great  "shoulders"  projecting  from 
the  heights  on  either  hand.  At  6  a.  m.,  temperature  17.5°  [—8.1°  C] ;  barometer,  30.04  [763.00"""].  After 
proceeding  a  half  dozen  miles  we  came  to  a  glacier,  meeting  the  valley  at  an  acute  angle.  It  filled  (juite  a 
wide  canon  or  valley  coming  from  the  east ;  towards  its  source  it  had  a  great  elevation.  We  passed  it  on 
a  terrace  between  its  flank  and  the  cliffs  to  the  right.  In  a  few  miles  farther,  at  6.50  a.  m.,  reached  the  end 
of  a  glacier  and  the  shore  of  a  large  lake,  going  down  a  steep  gully  before  getting  ofif  the  terrace.  The 
glacier  surface  describes  an  arc  where  it  abuts  on  the  lake,  and  is  broken  by  great  numbers  of  transverse 
crevasses ;  its  Hank  on  the  valley  forms  a  wall.  No  stones  or  moraines  observed  on  its  surface.  At  the 
farther  end  of  the  lake  could  be  seen  another  glacier  coming  in  from  the  left,  and  over  and  beyond  it  a  turn 
in  the  lake  or  valley  to  the  right  oblique.  After  a  short  delay  for  rest,  bearings,  &c.,  we  started  on  the  lake. 
Found  the  traveling  very  fatiguing  on  account  of  a  snow  crust  just  hard  enough  >io(  to  bear;  the  dogs  how- 
ever traveled  very  rapidly. 

At  11.15  •^-  "1-  reached  end  of  lake  and  went  into  camp.  The  lake  ranges  from  two  to  five  miles  in 
width,  and  is  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  long.  On  each  side  are  high,  stee[)  cliffs  broken  in  places  by  ravines. 
In  two  or  three  of  the  ravines  on  south  side  and  some  miles  back  glaciers  were  perceived.  Country  generally 
to  the  south  ice-capped  and  much  resembling  that  seen  from  "divide."  All  these  glaciers  probably  offshoots 
of  the  "  Chinese  wall  glacier."  A  few  musk-ox  droppings,  fox,  hare,  and  lemming  tracks  seen  in  the  valley, 
]yd  below  a  marked  scarcity.  Vegetation  seemed  very  sparse.  This  valley  may  be  a  mile  wide,  though 
the  stream-bed  is  but  a  few  yards  and  is  the  only  part  that  has  not  a  steep  lateral  slope,  excepting  a  few 
"  raised  beaches,"  &c.  The  glacier  by  camp  has  the  same  general  appearance,  and  occupies  same  relative 
position  with  the  valley  as  the  ])revious  one.  Little  seen  of  it  from  tent  on  account  of  a  narrow  ridge,  a  few 
hundred  feet  in  height,  lioubtless  a  moraine.  At  5  p.  m.  turned  in.  Latitude,  80°  56'  27",  longitude,  76° 
13'  W.  (observed). 

At  7.45  a.  m.  on  lake;  temperature  26°  |— 3.3''C.];  barometer,  30.10  [764.53"""],  cloudy       At   12.20 

]).  m.,  temperature   17.5°  [—8.1°  C] ;  barometer,  30.18   [766.56 ].    At  4.40  p.  m.,  temperature   14.5 

[—9.7°  C.];  barometer,  30.18  [766.56"""]. 

Time,  8  hours,  30  minutes;  delays,  i  hour,  45  minutes;  distance,  12  miles. 


■■*' 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITIOX. 


289 


[ade  some  exanii- 
-l^iril  seen  on  the 
but  generally  the 

a.  ni.,  barometer 
i'  W.  (observedj. 
12.30  p.  m.,  tem- 
[-7.5°  C.J;  ba- 


irometer,  28.375 
wereil  down  the 
Helow  this  the 
lided  the  sledge 
guide  and  went 
I  thousand  feet 
lense  high  anrl 
:ouid  have  been 
cipices  of  snow 
id  be  seen  only 
client  was  quite 

prevented  from 
projecting  from 
;-oo'""'J.     After 
ft  filled  {piite  a 
'e  passed  it  on 
ached  the  end 
terrace.     The 
of  transverse 
rface.     At  the 
syond  it  a  turn 
1  on  the  lake, 
the  dogs  how- 
five  miles  in 
es  by  ravines, 
iitry  generally 
bly  offshoots 
in  the  valley, 
wide,  though 
cpting  a  kw 
anie  relative 
ridge,  a  few 
igitude,  76° 

At  12.20 
;rature   14.5 


i 


Fourteenth  march,  from  wkst  end  ok  Lake  down  Fu<kI)  to  Fariheht. 

May  13. — At  6.50  a.  m.  broke  camp  and  started,  proceeding  along  between  the  ridge  or  moraine  referred 
to  and  a  wide,  gentle  slope  lying  along  the  cliffs  to  the  right ;  this  little  gap  was  from  100  to  400  yards  [91  to 
366'"]  wide  and  presented  a  surface  almost  level.  After  traveling  nearly  an  hour  quite  rapidly  we  came  to 
the  farther  end  of  the  moraine  and  beyond  it,  having  the  same  relative  position  to  the  glacier,  a  line  of  what 
seemed  "  floebergs."  There  was  no /(7r<y>//7Vf  difference  in  any  respect ;  they  were  detachments  Irom  the 
glacier.  Little  or  nothing  could  be  observed  of  the  latter  itself  from  here.  A  wide  break  in  the  cliffs 
beyond  it  to  the  left  oblique  was  noticed,  however,  and  I  sent  Sergeant  Jkainard  to  a  small  elevation  on  the 
right  to  observe  it.  He  reported  another  glacier  and  finite  a  large  one,  or  rather  two.  They  formed  one 
at  the  cliffs.     He  could  s<;e  back  about  eight  miles ;  width  at  cliffs  about  three  miles. 

After  taking  bearings  and  drawing  the  outlines  of  some  of  the  bergs  we  i)roceeded.  Soon  after  (5  a.  m.) 
we  came  to  an  immense  berg,  and  at  its  base  open  water  had  flooded  the  ice,  coming  up  through  a  crack. 
Here  I  susi)ected  for  the  first  time  our  pro.ximity  to  the  sea.  The  water  was  salt ;  tidal  action  evident.  It 
seemed  about  high  tide  [a  litde  after].  Just  beyond  this  (5.15  a.  m.)  reached  the  head  of  a  wide  fiord  (Greely 
FiordJ  and  the  end  of  the  glacier.  A  tide  crack  stopped  us  a  few  minutes,  but  we  Hanked  it  by  going  along 
shore.  The  tracks  of  a  ucav  were  here  seen.  The  cliffs  seen  from  the  lake  across  the  front  of  our  course 
formed  the  south  shore  of  the  fiord;  they  apparently  terminated  in  a  cape  about  20  miles  distant;  the  shore- 
line evidently  here  made  a  bend.  Took  a  course  for  this  cape.  The  north  shore  trended  off  to  the  right 
oblique  and  terminated  in  a  distant  promontory.  Just  beyond  was  a  bay  or  fiord,  and  there  was  seen  the 
north  shore  trending  off  towards  the  west  and  terminating  at  a  small  angle  to  the  right  of  the  20-mile  cape, 
apparently — but  the  weather  was  now  very  bad  and  nothing  could  be  seen  distinctly. 

The  ice  was  cc.  .-ed  with  deep  snow  with  a  light  crust;  traveling  extremely  fatiguing,  the  snow-shoes 
having  been  left  behind,  but  the  dogs  made  excellent  time  notwithstanding.  The  su';  .  remarkably  level. 
None  of  the  long  swells  of  the  paleocrystic  ice,  so  common  off  the  coast  of  Grc  .Wand  and  the  straits, 
observed.  About  eight  miles  from  the  lake  we  passed  through  some  low,  oval-shaped  mounds  of  ice,  a  foot  or 
two  [.3  or  .6'"]  high,  not  exactly  resembling  anything  seen  before.  About  two  miles  farther  on  crossed  tracks 
of  a  bear  going  up  fiord;  a  fox  had  evidently  followed  in  his  wake. 

It  was  now  so  foggy  and  snowing  so  much  that  all  land  was  at  times  shiit  out  almost  completely 
Many  fox  tracks  seen  and  crossed.  Some  time  before  this  a  very  high,  snow-cap])e(l  dome  observed  above 
and  beyond  the  twin  glacier  referred  to.  We  passed  the  cape  towards  which  we  had  been  traveling  and 
shore-line  trending  more  to  the  left.  The  snow  and  fog  and  a  constant  succession  of  points  or  capes  pre- 
vented tracing  it  any  distance.  The  south  shore  as  well  as  tiie  north  was  seen  to  be  formed  everywhere  of 
long  lines  of  steep,  high  cliffs.  The  ice  along  this  shore  was  much  broken  by  cracks;  the  ice-foot  hardly 
improved  the  traveling.  Having  passed  several  points — only  to  find,  in  each  case,  another  a  few  miles 
ahead.  At  12.05  ^^^  ^^^^  'be  shore  and  proceeding  out  in  the  fiord  a  quarter  of  an  hour  went  into  camp; 
all  much  fatigued  and  suffering  more  or  less  from  snow-blindness.  Singular  as  it  may  seem,  snow  and 
fog  have  a  worse  effect  in  this  respect  than  a  clear  sky.  Estimated  the  width  of  'he  fiord  at  tlr's  point 
about  10  miles.  Got  a  view  of  Land's  Knd  [Cape  BrainardJ  on  north  side  of  fiord  about  forty  miles  off. 
At  6  p.  m.  turned  in  to  sleep  as  long  as  we  could,  or  until  the  storm  abated. 

At  2.15  a.  m.,  breakfast.     At  3.20  a.  m.,  temperature  18.5°  [  —  7.5°  C.J;  larometer,  30.02  [762.49 J. 

Snowing  lightly;  light  northwest  wind;  sky  hidden.  At  6.30  a.  m,,  temperature  25°  [—3.9°  C.|;  barometer, 
29.40  [746.75"""|.  Sky  hidden,  snowing  and  very  foggy.  At  1^.45  p.  m.,  temperature,29°  |  —  1.7°  C.];  at  2 
p.  m., barometer,  29.87  [758.68"""] ;  at  6  p.  m., barometer  .?9.83  [7S7.67"""J.  Magnetic  variation  from  fourteen 
observations,  116°  35'  ±  1°  3'.     Latituile,  80°  48'  39",  longitude,  78°  26'  W.  (observed). 

Time,  8  hours,  40  minutes.     Distance,  2C  miles. 

At  FAKiHEST  (Camp  on  ice  of  Greely  Fiord). 

Afav  14.— At  8  a.  m.,  temperature  25°  [-3.9°C.];  barometer,  29.97  [761.22"""];  snowing  and  blowing, 

wind  west.     A  few  miles  of  the  south  shore  up  and  down  is  all  that  can  be  seen.     At  9  a.  m.,  breakfast,  after 

nineteen  hours  fast.     Tea  only  warm  on  account  of  the  reduced  allowance  of  alcohol.     By  cutting  every- 

thmg  down  to  the  lowest  limit.  Sergeant  Brainard  estimates  that  four  more  meals  can  be  had  before  starting 

H.  Mis.  393 19 


•1    ' 


"i 


i 


I  I 


{    '.  ■< 

l!i  '^ 

;      i 

;;[ 

^ 

il  i    i 

i 

i 

l!       1      .  :f 

.1       I 

] 

llil 


!    1 


290 


THE  LAUY  FliANKLlN  BAY  EXP;:DIT10]S. 


back.  On  account  of  depth  of  snow  on  the  fiord,  the  bad  weather,  obseivations,  iVc,  decided  reliictanily 
not  to  attempt  advancing  farther,  especially  since  we  could  not  liope  to  reach  the  mouth  of  the  fiord.  The 
day  spent  in  taking  observations  (the  sun  being  faintly  visible),  comjjass  bearings,  &C.  The  general  direc- 
tion of  the  fiord  is  WSW. ;  it  grows  wider  on  approaching  the  sea.  That  we  saw  tl  .a  we  were  long 
before  this  quite  sure,  no  land  being  visible  to  the  WSW.,  even  after  many  sights  tin  .^h  the  telesco[)e. 
'I'he  fiord  ended  to  the  east  in  two  bays  [Antoinette  and  Adola|  or  arms;  on  the  nort'i  ide  many  breaks, 
marking  water-courses,  and  two  or  more  indicating  branch  fords.  The  country  beyonf'  to  the  north  v try 
much  broken  and  very  elevateil.  The  surface  of  the  fiord  presented  one  unbroken  e:.i.  »nse  of  i':ep  snow. 
At  7.15  p.  m.,  supper.    At  10.3  turned  in. 

At  10  a.  m.,  temperature  30°  f— I.I  C.J;  barometer,  29.94  [760.46"""];  wind  light  '.om  west.  At  10.41; 
a.  m.,  tcmi)erature  ;^2°  [0.0°  C.];  barometer,  29.97  [761.2:!"""].  A;  li  301;  m.,  tcm])eraturt  34"  [  l-i.i"  C.j; 
barrrjieter  30.0  [7C  .99"""].  At  1.45  p.  m.,  teniper.iture  34°  [-fi.i°  C.];  barometer  30.02  [762.49"'"'].  At 
3.2'-  !  .  m.. '  I  .rat'  e  37°  [4 -'•8°  C.];  uarometer,  30.00  [761.99'""'].  At  4.20  p.  m.,  temperature  3^5° 
[+!..■>  C. j  hicomttcr  30.02  [762,49"""];  snowing  all  day.  At  6  p.  m.,  temperature  27.0"  [ — 2.8°  C.]; 
biiroi."frV^!'  3.i;'.      ,'762.49"""];  light  east  wind  clouds  breaking  up. 

Ai(i-j  i  ;, — 'Thu  rr.  rning  v  as  promising,  and  at  7.35  a.  m.  I  left  camp  with  Sergeant  Brainard  to  ascend 
the  cliffs  to  the  so."  We  got  up  by  means  of  the  ravine  before  referred  to.  Before  long,  however,  a 
storm  began  to  form  in  the  east,  and  soon  the  driving  snow  shut  out  everything  and  prevented  a  view  of  the 
mouth  of  a  fiord.  Previously,  howev  >r^  a  lofty  range  of  snow-clad  mountains  was  observed  on  the  north  side 
of  the  fiord,  extending  generally  parallel  witli  it,  and  estimated  at  about  fifty  miles  distant.  In  these  mount- 
ains a  large  glacier  was  seen.  To  the  south,  about  twenty-five  miles  off",  is  another  large  glacier,  probably  an 
offshoot  of  the  "  Chinese  wall  glacier."  The  whole  face  of  the  country  in  that  direction  seemed  ice-capped. 
We  continued  along  the  edge  of  the  cliiTs  for  about  four  miles.  Here  the  barometer  gave  an  elevation  of 
2,250  feet  [686'"].  To  the  west  the  cliffs  appeared  to  trend  back  much  more  towards  the  south,  the  fiord 
becoming  wider.  Several  deep  valleys  run  in  a  gener.1l  north  or  northwest  direction  to  the  fiord.  Beyond 
all  these  was  to  be  seen  obscurely  what  looked  like  a  line  of  cliffs,  having  a  northwest  direction,  and  marking 
a  branch  fiord,  probably  much  nearer  than  "  Land's  End "  [Cape  Brainard],  the  west  e.xtreme  of  north 
shore. 

After  half  an  hour's  delay  started  back.  Jin  route  Sergeant  Brainard  discovered  fossil  remains  on  the 
mountain  top  and  soon  we  had  quite  a  collection.  One  was  a  shell  and  the  others  what  we  took  for  petri- 
fied wood,  fish,  &c.  A  few  specimens  of  gra.sses,  &c.,  were  also  collected.  A  ptarmigan  was  seen.  Reached 
tent  again  at  5.35  p.  m.  Sergeant  Brainard  stoj)ped  b.ick  to  build  a  cairn  and  deposit  record  at  the  mouth 
of  the  mvine.  Spent  the  afternoon  in  observations,  &c.  At  8.45  p.  m.  we  all  started  out  on  the  fiord  with 
the  dog-team  and  traveled  for  an  hour  towards  the  opposite  shore.  After  getting  out  some  distance  another 
point  b'gan  to  make  its  appearance  beyond  the  one  hitherto  farthest  seen  on  the  south  side ;  this  latter  I 
judged  1  en  or  fifteen  miles  distant,  and  the  former  twenty-five  or  thirty.  Between  the  two  seemed  a  fiord,  the 
same  disclosed  from  Fossil  Mount  (2,140  feet  [652"'  high]),  doubtless,  and  a  few  degrees  in  azimuth  farther 
to  the  right  the  land  seemed  to  end  in  a  bold  promontory.  The  atmosphere  became  much  clearer  before 
turning  back,  and  Sergeant  Brainard  and  I  examined  the  mouth  of  the  fiord  carefully  with  the  telescope, 
which,  after  somt  time,  brought  out  very  faintly  a  cape  [Cape  I-ockwood,  Arthur  Land]  still  farther  to  the 
west,  projecting  a  degree  or  two  beyond  the  e.ist  and  estimated  at  sixty  miles  distant.  Between  this  and 
"  Land's  End  "  [Cape  Brainard]  was  quite  distinct.     At  1 1  p.  m.  turned  in. 

At  5.15  a.  m.,  temper.Tture,  14°  [  —  10.0°  C.];  at  5.45  a.  m.,  barometer,  29.98  [761.48'"'"];  west  wind. 
At  7.10  a.  m.  temperature  17°  [—8.3°  C.];  barometer,  29.93  [760.21'"'"].  At  10.35  »•  m,  barometer  27.42 
[696.46™"'].  At  1.35  p.  m.,  temperature  20°  [  —  6.7°  C.J ;  barometer,  29.73  [755.13'""'].  At  5.20  p.  m.,  tem- 
perature 25'5°  [—3.6°  C.J ;  barometer,  29.80  [756.9r""'J.  At  6  p.  m.,  temperature  20°  [—6,7°  C] ;  barometer, 
29.77  [756.14"""].     At  10.05  p.  m.,  temperature  19°  [— 7.2°C.];  barometer,  29.75  [755.64'""']. 

Fifteenth  march  (on  return),  Farthe.st  to  Lake. 

Afay  16. — At  7  a.  m.,  breakfast,  and  at  8.15  a.  m.  we  started.  The  snow  soft  and  very  deep  and  trav- 
eling very  bad.  In  two  and  a  quarter  hours  reached  "  20-mile  Cape."  Some  time  beyond  two  seals  were 
seen  on  the  ice,  the  harbor  se.il  "  Natsik."  Made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  get  them.  Reached  head  of 
the  fiord  [Greely  FiordJ  at  5.15  p.  m.,  and  the  old  camp  at  end  of  lake  at  6.50.    The  little  sledge  went  fre- 


TUB  LADY  I'KANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


291 


:ci(leii  reluctantly 
^f  the  fiord.  The 
rhc  general  direc- 
■ja  we  were  long 
f^h  the  telescope, 
ide  many  breaks, 
to  the  north  Vtry 
ise  of  ('.'ep  snow. 

1  west.     At  I0.4S 

34"!  -I.i't:.,; 

I  [762.49' |.    At 

sniperatiire  33*5° 
7.0"  [-2.8°  C.]; 

•ainard  to  ascend 
long,  however,  a 
ted  a  view  of  the 
on  the  north  side 
In  these  niount- 
cier,  probably  an 
;med  ice-capped. 
e  an  elevation  of 
;  south,  the  fiord 
;  fiord.  Beyond 
on,  and  marking 
xtreme  of  north 

1  remains  on  the 
took  for  petri- 

Iseen.  Reached 
at  the  mouth 
the  fiord  with 

listance  another 
this  latter  I 

lied  a  fiord,  the 

azimuth  farther 

clearer  before 

the  telescope, 

farther  to  the 

ween  this  and 

J,  west  wind, 
irometer  27,42 
20  p.  m.,  tem- 
.] ;  barometer, 


eep  and  trav- 
wo  seals  were 
ched  head  of 
dge  went  fre- 


rd 


quently  .ibovc  the  slats.  Journey  extremely  fatiguing.  The  dojrs  begin  to  show  the  effects  of  short  rations. 
There  >vas  now  nothing  to  give  them.  Of  our  own  rations  '  ree  meals  of  sausa;3C  were  made  to  last  six, 
which  with  seven  ounces  of  hard  bi  ;ad  (short  weight),  was  t  ely  insufficient.  On  leaving  the  large  sleilge 
thrce-iiuarters  pound  of  bacon  was  brought  along  as  a  'av  .  ration  for  the  three  of  us.  At  9.45  p.  m. 
turned  in. 

At  7.25  a.  ni.,  barometer  29.84  [757.92 ].     At  7.45  a,  .i .,  temperature  11.5°  [  — ji.4oC.];  barometer, 

29.85  [758  i8"""J.  Strong  west  wind;  sky  clear.  At  i  p.  m.,  b.arometer  29.87  [758.68""").  At  9.45  p.  m., 
temperature  +3°  [  —  16.1°  C.J;  barometer,  29.92  [759.95 '].     Clear  and  calm. 

Time  {en  route),  10  hours,  35  minutes. 

Sixteenth  march  (from  end  hf  Lake  to  Snow-Bank). 

j^tiy  17. — At  8,45  a.  m.  started  from  camp.  Traveling  over  the  lake  much  improved.  Four  hours  in 
crossing  the  lake.  Found  the  ascent  of  the  ravine  very  arduous,  especially  near  its  head,  on  account  of  the 
deep  soft  snow.  The  tlogs  seemed  very  weak.  Arrived  at  the  snow  bank;  the  dogs  climbed  to  the  top,  and 
by  means  of  a  long  seal  thon?  pulled  the  sledge  up  from  below  with  everything  on  it  with  our  assistance; 
the  ascent  occupied  but  fift  ',  .  ■•".tes.  At  5.05  p.  m.  pitched  tent  at  place  of  ohl  camp.  The  only  signs 
of  animal  life  during  the  ui"!  -h  v.  . .:  the  droppings  of  a  hare.  Killed  one  of  the  dogs,  "Button,"  for  dog- 
food.    At  S  p.  m.  turned  ■  . 

At  7  a.  m.,  temperaiur-,  I-r^^'  [--10.0°  C.];  barometer,  30.03  [762.75""").  Bright  and  calm;  east  end 
of  lake,  barometer  r  >_,  [71  :  75""").  At  5.10  p.  m,,  temperature  17°  [—8.3°  C.];  barometer,  28.25 
[717.54'""').    At  7.30  •).  ni.     jnijierature  10.5°  [—11.9°  C);  barometer,  28.30  [718.81'""']. 

Time,  8  hours,  i.  minutes. 

Seventeenth  march,  across  Divide. 

May  18. — The  carcass  of  "  Button  "  was  completely  devoured  during  the  night.  At  5.20  a.  m.,  leaving 
Christiansen  and  sledge  I  ascended  with  Sergeant  Hrainard  a  height  to  the  south  (barometer,  27.82  [7o6.6.'"""|) 
about  two  miles  distant  and  got  a  good  view  of  the  surrounding  region.    Took  the  following  compa.ss  sights  ; 

Decrees. 

Continuation  of  gUcier-%vall  and  break  in  the  rolling  upland 147 

"20-mile  Cape" 180 

First  iceeapped  "hog-back" 140 

Second  ice-rapped  "  hog-biick  " I3i 

Third  ice-capped  "hog-bacli" 126 

Fourth  ice-capped  "  hog-bacli  " 118 

Fifth  ice-capped  "  hog-back" go 

Approximate  po.sition  of  next  camping  place  to  the  east 359 

The  great  wall  referred  to  above  could  be  clearly  seen  to  trend  oft"  to  the  southwest,  and  where  lost  sight 
of  in  the  distance  I  estimated  at  forty  miles.  To  the  left  (east)  of  it,  but  much  nearer,  fifteen  miles  about,  were 
the  ice-capped  domes  or  "hog-backs"  referred  to.  The  glacier  at  the  head  of  the  lake  was  clearly  seen  to 
issue  from  the  great  me r  dc  glace ;  the  point  of  confluence  was  only  about  a  half  dozen  miles  distant.  'I'he 
whole  surface  of  the  country  to  the  south  of  "  the  wall"  seemed  nothing  but  ice.  After  forty  minute.s'  delay 
(baromett-r,  27.75°  [7''-'4-84"'"')),  I  started  north  towards  the  little  lake,  Sergeant  Brainard  returning  to  camp 
and  bringing  on  the  sledge,  iSrc,  when  we  continued  on  the  old  route  together.  Reaching  the  glacier  wall 
I  followed  close  along  it,  instead  of  inclining  to  the  north  as  on  the  outward  journey,  and  took  the  following 
barometer  readings  in  order  to  get  the  altitude  of  the  wall  (the  foot)  at  the  summit:  10.05,  ^'^  Lake  Glacier 
River,  temperature  13.5°  [—10.3°  C.j;  barometer,  28.51   [724.14"""];   11.05,  temperature  15°  [—9.4°  C.]; 

barometer  28.05  [712.46""");  farther  on,  27.75  [704.84' J!  27.65  [702.30""") ;   12.10  p.  m.,  gicacest  elevation 

of  w.all,  temper.ature  16°  [—8.9°  C] ;  barometer,  27.60  [701.03"""]. 

A  small  lake  discovered  near  by  here.  A  strong,  cold  west  wind  was  blowing,  making  traveling  uncom- 
fortable. Sergeant  Brainard  and  I  suffered  a  good  deal  with  our  eyes.  At  2  p.  m.  went  into  camp  at  old 
place.  A  snow-bird  seen  near  divide  and  hare  tracks  some  time  before.  The  late  snow-storm  has  com- 
pletely changed  the  character  of  the  traveling.  The  snow  lies  soft  and  deep  everywhere.  I  had  intended 
ascending  the  glacier  near  the  divide  at  tlie  only  place  where  such  a  thing  was  possible,  but  on  account  of 
the  state  of  our  eyes  and  the  strong  wind  blowing,  &c.,  gave  it  up. 


292 


TnU  LADY  FliANKMN  liAY  EXPEDITION. 


i 

I  1; 

1  li 

■ 

I    I 


i     ,1 


t 


I  i  M 


-I  ' 

i 


At  3  a.m.,  icinpcraturc  7.5°  [  —  13.6°  C.J;  4.40  a.  m.,  temperature  4.5°  |  — 15.3°^".];  barometer,  28.37, 

[720.58 ];  sky  dear,  light  east  wind.    At  8.25  a.  m.  (on  lake),  temperature  14°  [  — lo.ooC.];  b.irometer, 

28.25  [717.54"""];  bright  and  clear.  At  2.30  i).m.,  temperature  18.5°  |— 7.5"  C.];  barometer,  28.60  [726.43'""'] 
clear  and  calm.     At  4.30  |).  m.,  temperature  18.5°  [  —  7.5°  C.];  barometer,  28.62  [726.93""']. 

Time,  6  hours,  30  minutes. 

Eighteenth  march,  down  Musk-ox  Valley. 

Aftry  19. — Got  little  sleep  during  the  night.  One  of  my  eyes  hurting  consider.ibly  this  morning.  At 
2.15  a.  m.,  breakfast.  The  ilogs  eat  the  whip,  foot-gear,  and  seal  skin  in  any  form  they  can  get  hold  of. 
At  3.45  a.  m.  started  from  camp.  On  reaching  about  the  miilille  of  the  valley  and  the  Kike  I  stopped  the 
sleilge  three-ipiarters  of  an  hour,  and  Sergeant  lirainard  and  I  ascendeil  the  low  heights  to  the  north  and  south 
respectively,  with  litde  gain  as  far  as  the  sergeant  was  concerned,  as  farther  off  and  higher  elevations  cut 
otT  the  view  to  the  south.  I  had  the  same  experience  in  attempting  to  see  the  north,  but  to  the  south  beyond 
Sergeant  lirainard,  I  could  see  "  the  wall  '  and  trace  it  along  for  several  miles  to  the  east  and  west.  At  1 1 
a.  m.  went  into  camp  a  little  beyond  cache  near  old  camp.  When  the  lamp  was  lighted  at  noon  the  heat 
in  the  little  shelter  tent,  even  with  the  sides  and  ends  rai.sed,  must  have  been  above  90°.  One  or  two  fo.x 
tracks  seen  during  the  march,  but  nothing  more.  Several  snow-birilsseen  and  heard.  "The  wall  "  seen  again 
up  a  ravine  to  the  southeast  just  before  reaching  camp,  and  the  mantle  on  a  neighboring  "hog-back"  was  very 
distinct.  Have  got  down  to  almost  the  last  pipe  of  tobacco;  it  is  harder  than  short  rations.  Have  now 
near._   full  allowance  of  the  latter — left  at  the  cache  here. 

At  3.20  a.  m.,  temperature  16"  [  —  8.9°  C.];  barometer,  28.58  [725.92"'"];  clear,  with  light  west  wind. 

At  12  m., '.em|)erature  20°  [  — 6.7°C.],  barometer,  28.82  [732. 01 J.    At  2  p.  m.,  temperature  23°  [  —  5.0°  C.J; 

barometer,  28.82  [732.01"""];  clear  and  calm.  At  10.30  p.  m.,  temperature  24°  [—4.4°  C.J ;  barometer,  28.74 
[729.98'"'"];  light  west  wind. 

Time,  7  hours,  15  minutes. 

Nineteenth  march,  down  Musk-ox  Valley. 

J/(iv2o. — Breakfast  a  half  hour  before  midnight  of  the  19th;  12.25  a.  m.,  started  from  camp.  ^^^^  many 
fresh  fox,  hare,  lemming,  and  ptarmigan  tracks  in  the  "gap,"  and  also  an  owl  Hying  overhead.  Reached  the 
old  cache  near  the  first  camp  in  this  valley  in  three  hours,  antl  continued  on  for  about  three  and  one-half  miles 
farther,  camping  at  4.50  a.  m.  near  the  "  Rocky  Gully  "  by  which  we  first  entered  this  valley.  The  traveling 
during  this  march  and  the  preceding  rendered  easier  by  the  snowfiiU.  Sergeant  Brainard  still  suffering  a 
good  deal  from  snow-blindness.     Turned  m  about  9  a.  m. 

At  5  a.  m.,  temperature  16°  (—8.9°  C.J;  barometer,  29.65  [753.10"""];  at  7.20  a.  ni.,  temperature  i6° 
[—8.9°  C.J;  b.Trometer,  29.62  [7S2.33'"'"J;  9.20  a.  m.,  temperature  22''  [  —  5.6°  C.J;  barometer,  29.57 
[7Si.o6"""J. 

Time,  4  hours,  25  minutes.  ■ 

Twentieth  march,  from  Musk-ox  Vali.kv  to  head  of  Beatrix  Bay  Valley. 

At  4.40  ]).  m.,  breakfast ;  no  bread,  sugar,  nor  tobacco ;  rabbit  stew,  the  piece  of  meat  being  stolen  by 
"  Howler."  At  5.40  ]>.  m.  started  from  camp.  Got  out  of  the  valley  by  means  of  a  gorge  a  little  west  of  the 
"  Rocky  Gully"  referred  to  above.  It  was  very  steep,  and  one  mass  of  stones  and  rocks.  At  first  it  seemed 
impossible  to  get  up,  but  the  ascent  w.as  accomplished  in  one  hour.  On  the  heights  above  the  tr.icks  of 
inu.sk-oxen — two  or  three  (one  a  calf) — were  seen,  going  east,  and  beyond,  fox,  hare,  and  ptarmigan  tracks. 
The  travel  on- the  lake  was  very  poor.  Reached  old  camp  at  9  p.  m.;  found  the  tent  blown  down,  but  the 
rations  in  it  antl  everything  about  the  large  sledge  were  undisturbed.     At  11.15,  s"l*pcr. 

■At  3.30  p.  m.,  temperature  28°  [  —  2.2°  C.J;  barometer,  29.50  [749.29"""J;  4  p.  m.,  temperature  30° 
[  — i.i°  C.];  barometer,  29.50  [749.29"""J;  clear  and  calm.  At  5.15  p.  m.,  temperature  23°  [  —  5.0°  C.J; 
barometer,  29.48  [748.78"""J ;  9.15  p.  m  ,  temperature  25°  [—3.9°  C.J ;  barometer,  29.00  [736.59"""].  Cloudy 
with  light  north  wind. 

Time,  3  hours,  20  minutes. 


'P 
M 


1 


TUB  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


293 


;  barometer,  28.37, 
.ooC.];  barometer, 
!r,  28.60  [726.43"""] 

i ]• 


this  morning.  At 
y  can  get  hold  of. 
lake  I  .slopped  the 
lie  north  and  south 
;her  elevations  cut 
J  the  south  beyond 
;  and  west.  At  1 1 
d  at  noon  the  heat 
'.  One  or  two  fox 
e  wall  "  seen  again 
og-back"  was  very 
tions.     Haive  now 

:h  light  west  wind. 

;  barometer,  28.74 


imp 

id. 

nd 

il 


Saw  many 

Reached  the 

one-half  miles 

I'he  traveling 

still  suffering  a 


temperature  i6° 
jarometer,  29.57 


LLEV. 

being  stolen  by 

ittle  west  of  the 

U  first  it  seemed 

the  tr.acks  of 

;armigan  tracks. 

down,  but  the 

emperature  30° 
[-5.00  C.]; 
S9"'"'J.    Cloudy 


TWENTV-FIRST    MARCH,   DOWN    VaI.I.EY   TO    BEATRIX    BaV. 

Afiiy  21, A  very  strong  south  wind  during  our  rest  whicii  threatened  to  blow  the  tent  down.     At  9.30 

a.  m.,  breakfast.  At  10.10  a.  m.  left  camp  with  original  outfit.  Found  the  travel  much  improved  by  the 
late  snow  and  wind.  Reached  bay  in  three  and  a  f|uarter  hours ;  delayed  here  a  half  hour,  and  then  pro- 
ceeding, went  into  camp  at  4.30  p.  m.,  three-quarters  of  an  hour  from  the  cape,  where  the  bay  bends  to  the 
north,  nearly  opposite  Record  Point.  The  snow  on  this  part  of  the  fiord  [Archer  Fiortl]  very  thin ;  the 
ice  fast  melting.     Got  water  for  first  time  without  melting  ice.    Supper  at  6  o'clock  and  turned  in  at  7.30. 

At  I2.4S  a.  m.,  temperature  28°  [  —  2.2°  C.|;  barometer,  28.95  [735.32' "'];  weather  fine.     At  7  a.  m., 

temper.iture  33°  [  +  0.6°  C.j;  barometer,  28.98  [736.08 [;  strong  north  wind.    At  1 1  a.  m.,  temperature  36° 

[2.2°  C.J ;  barometer,  28.98  [736.08 j ;  light  north  wind,  getting  stronger  and  blowing  all  d.iy.     At  5  p.  m., 

temperature  37.5°  [i;.i°  C.];  barometer,  29.70  [754.37"""1>  ^^  ^-45  !'■  "i'.  temperature  28°  [  —  2.2°  C.j;  barom- 
eter, 29.75  [755-<'4 \<  ^^'"'l  northeast. 

Time,  5  hours,  20  minutes. 

Twenty-second  march,  down  Archer  Fiord  to  Simmonds  Bav. 

Mav  22. — At  4.30  a.  ni.,  breakfist.  At  5.50  a.  m.  started  from  camp  and  traveled  rapidly,  reaching 
head  of  bay  in  about  two  and  a  quarter  hours.  Pitched  tent  at  8.15  a,  m.  with  the  intention  of  proceeding 
up  the  valley  with  little  sledge,  to  explore  it,  having  had  an  idea  that  Musk-ox  Valley  came  out  here. 
"  Howler,"  being  unwell,  was  left  behind.  With  the  rest  of  the  team  and  Sergeant  Brainard  and  Christiansen  I 
left  at  9.50  a.  m.,  taking  the  small  sledge.  The  mouth  of  the  valley  is  closed  in  by  two  immense  "  shoulders," 
like  huge  walls,  which  separate  just  sutticiently  to  form  a  narrow  gap,  like  a  gateway,  in  which  the  stream-bed 
lies.  Through  this  we  passed,  and  passing  around  several  "shoulders,"  now  projecting  from  the  right  and 
now  from  the  left,  after  passing  over  several  small  lakes  reached  a  large  one,  over  which  we  traveled  for  two 
hours,  when  we  reached  the  end  of  the  valley,  a  low  divide  about  200  feet  [61"']  altitude  in  the  middle,  per 
barometer,  above  the  lake.  The  lake  is  from  one  to  two  miles  wide,  and  the  valley  a  mile  or  more  wider  and 
probably  fifteen  long,  and  walled  in  on  each  side  by  immensely  high  cliffs,  which  slope  back  and  gain  a  greater 
elevation  beyond  their  crests.  From  the  top  of  the  divide  we  saw  what  is  doubtless  Musk-ox  Valley,  a  valley 
like  it  in  every  respect,  extending  to  the  right  and  left  about  a  half  dozen  miles,  and  at  about  a  right  angle 
with  the  general  course  of  Simmonds  Bay  Valley.  The  "divide"  is  hardly  two  miles  wide,  and  presents  a 
curious  feature  in  the  topography  of  the  region.  Several  sledges  of  smooth,  polished  rocks  crop  out  on  top. 
The  lake  is  about  twelve  miles  long,  its  north  end  obliquing  to  the  left  from  where  we  left  it,  and  eri'Hng 
about  one  and  a  half  miles  beyond.  After  taking  compass  sights,  &c.,  we  proceeded  back.  No  game  or 
tracks  were  seen.  Reached  camp  at  5.15  p.  m.  The  dogs  tr;.veled  very  fast  going  and  coming,  the  ice 
being  smooth  and  hard,  little  or  no  snow  at  all.  The  ice  on  the  lake  very  thick  an  d  quite  clear.  At  8. 1 5 
p.  m.  turned  in. 

At  5  a.  m.,  temperature  32°  [0.0°  C.];  barometer,  29.79  [756.65"""];  calm  and  foggy.  At  5.45  a.  m., 
temperature  27°  [  —  2.8°  C.J;  barometer,  29.79  [7S6'65"""];  clear  overhead,  but  foggy  around  the  horizon. 
At  8.30  a.  m.,  temperature  31°  [—0.6°  C.J;  barometer,  29.73  [7S5.I3'""'];  calm.  At  5.30  p.  m.,  tempera- 
ture 27°  [  —  2.8°  C.J;  barometer,  29.63  f752.59"""J.  At  7.35  p.  m.,  temperature  23°  [  — s-o''  C.J;  barometer, 
29.68  [753.86"'"'J;  calm  and  clear. 

Time,  2  hours,  25  minutes. 

Twenty-third  march,  Simmonds  Bay  down  Archer  Fiord. 

May  23. — At  4  a.  m.,  breakfast.  At  5.15  a.  m.,  started  from  camp.  At  Depot  Point  we  stopped  and 
examined  rocks  for  the  depot,  but,  like  last  summer,  were  unsuccessful.  Shortly  after  this  we  esi)ied  a  large 
harbor  seal,  and  Christiansen  neariy  succeeded  in  shooting  it.  At  9.30  another  was  seen,  and  this  time 
Christiansen  was  more  successful — killing  it.  It  was  of  the  same  kind,  and  weighed  probably  200  jjounds;  a 
very  large  one.  It  was  skinned,  and  the  meat  and  blubber  taken  along.  The  snow  along  here  w.as  rather 
soft  and  deep,  and  traveling  slow.  At  1 1.30  a.  m.,  went  into  camp.  Supper  at  i  p.  m.  The  liver  of  the 
seal  W.1S  delicious.     At  2.30  p.  m.  turned  in. 

At  3  a.  m.,  temperature  21°  [—6.1°  C.j.  At  3.40  a.  m.,  barometer  29.68  [752.59"""J.  At  4.45  a.  m., 
temperature  28°  [—2.2°  C.];  barometer,  29.63  [7S2.S9"""J;  calm  and  cloudy. 

Time,  6  hours,  15  minutes. 


II    I  ■ 


H! 


■4 

\ 

'  ' 

' 

' 

« 

\ 

r 

i 

J 

I 

i  ' 

II 


iti! 


1 

i 

t 

1 

1  i 

I'i 

i    !    I 

!  i : 

;    t  I'll 


I    J:! 


294 


TUE  LADY  FllANKLIN  HAY  EXrEDlTlON. 


TWENTV-KOURTH   MARCH. 


Afity  24. — Breakfast  at  midnight.  At  1.30  a.  m.  broke  camp  ami  startal.  Many  of  tlic  ilogs  tlisgorge<l 
themselves  of  the  b'ujjber  of  which  tliey  had  eaten  too  much,  and  traveled  badly  in  <onse(iiR'nie.  Stopped  at 
place  of  old  camj)  (liie  sixonj  out)  and  put  on  cac  lie  left  there.  About  a  (piarter  of  a  mile  be\ond  we  crossed 
a  singular  crack  in  the  ice,  extending  from  shore  towards  the  opposite  shore  as  far  as  the  eye  ( ouhl  reac  h. 

AVater  appeared  abo.it  afoot  [304 |  below  the  ite  surface;  crack  about  fifteen  inches  [about  380""")  wide. 

At  9.20  a.  m.  went  ii  to  camp  about  three  miles  below  Hillo<  k  Depot,  at  a  conspi(  uous  point.  At  1 1  a.  m. 
supper  of  fried  seal  meat,  which  was  f()un<l  excellent.  A  few  fox  and  hare  tracks  seen  during  the  march, 
and  one  or  two  seals.     At  1 2  noon  turned  in. 

At  I  a.  m.,  tem[)eiature  25.50  [  — 3.6'  (;.J ;  barometer,  29.79  [756.65"""].  Overcast;  threatening  snow. 
At  loa.m.  temperature  27    [  —  2.8  C.J;  barometer  29.84  [757.92'"™!.  At  12  noon, temperature  28   [  —  3. aC.j; 

barometer,  29.84  (757-<,)2"'"'|.     At  4  ]>.  m.,  barometer  29.89  (758.94' J.     .Snow-storm  from  the  east  raping. 

At  9  p.  m.,  temperature  23  | — 5.0'CJ;  9.30  ji.  m.,  barometer  29.93  [760.21'"'"].  Snowstorm  from  the 
east.  At  10  p.  m.,  bre.-.kfast.  Stew  of  seal  meat.  At  u  ]).  m.,  temperature  22^  [  — 5,6^^  C.) ;  barometer, 
29.89  [759. 19'"'"].     At  I.'  midnight  started  from  camp.     .\  strong  east  wind,  with  snow  and  fog. 

Time,  7  hours,  50  m  nutes. 

TWKNTY-KI»TH    MARCH,  TO    IIeLLOWS. 

Afiiy  25. — Sergeant  Hriinard  and  I  wore  snow-shoes  during  the  march  ;  one  of  us  always  ahead  of  the 
dogs.  The  snow  was  very  deep  and  travel  slow.  At  6.55  a.  m.  we  reached  the  depot  tent  at  IJasil  Norris 
Bay  and  stopped  to  camp.  The  snow  overland,  as  well  as  at  times  before,  came  up  over  the  slats.  'I'he  dogs 
did  well.     At  9.15  a.  m.  supper,  and  at  11.45  ^'  '^*  turned  in. 

At  7.17  a.  m.,  temperatu.e  22  [  —  5.6-  C] ;  barometer,  29.88  [758.94"""].  At  11.15  •''•  "!•>  temperature 
24'  [—4.4'-'  C.];  11.45  ^'  "'•>  barometer  29.84  [757.92'""']. 

Time,  5  hours,  55  minuter. 

TWENTV-SIXTH    MARCH,  1  ROM    BkLLOWS   TO    FoRT    CONCER. 

May  26. — At  1.30  a.m.,  temperature  19.5'^  [—^-'f  ^"'li  barometer,  29.87  [758.68"""  ].  Snowing.  At 
1.45  a.m.,  breakfast.  One  of  the  dogs  ate  all  the  net-work  out  of  one  of  Sergeant  Hrainard's  snow-shoes; 
the  latter,  however,  replaced  it  with  seal  thong  so  that  it  answered  very  well.  Several  feet  of  Christiansen's 
whip  were  also  quickly  swallowed,  the  whip  being  laid  down  for  ,1  moment.  At  4.10  a.  m.  left  camp  and 
proceeded  towards  Fort  Conger  via  the  south  side  of  harbor.  The  traveling  was  abominable,  worse  than 
ever.  Wearing  snow-shoes  it  did  not  particularly  affect  nie,  but  Christiansen  would  frequently  go  up  above 
the  thigh  in  the  deep  soft  snow.  "  Howler"  gave  out  ojjposite  the  "west  entrance,"  and  had  to  be  left.  At 
9  o'clock,  ojjposite  the  northwest  corner  of  Bellot  Island,  I  abandoned  the  large  sledge  and,  transferring  what 
was  nece.s.sary  to  the  small  one,  reached  the  station  thus  at  12.10  p.  m. 

Time,  8  hours. 

Tabulated  statement  of  distances. 


Locality. 


Stony  Point 

Fiord  

Do 

Ella  Hay 

(llacier 

Klla  Hay 

Heatrix  Hay.  ... 
Head  of  valley. 
Musk-ox  Valley 

(iap .. 

Glacier 

Snowdrift 

Lake 


>> 

e 

3 

Hours 

en  roit/i'. 

^. 

a 

h.  m. 

I 

7   50 

I  00 

2 

8  05 

30 

.1 

65! 

'5 

4 

5  S'> 

5° 

5 

5  '" 

I  20 

6 

4  •; 

50 

7 

5  ^f 

40 

8 

3  55 

55 

9 

5  5.^ 

30 

10 

6  3t 

3  3° 

1 1 

6  55 

45 

12 

7  '5 

I  45 

'3 

8  JO 

«  45 

■  60 


10 
10 
'3 

9 
12 

8 
21 
13 
22 


Loc.ility. 


Farthest 

Lake : 

Snow-drift 

(i lacier  

Near  Gap  

Musk  ox  Valley  . 

He.ad  of  Beatrix  Hay  Valley 

Fiord 

Siinmonds  Bay 

Fiord 

Do... 

H.isil  Norris  Hay 

!''ort  Conj;cr 


." 

Hours 

S, 

3 

<•«  runtf. 

^ 

M 

•— > 

0 

a 

h.  m. 

h.  m. 

14 

8  40 

I  00 

26 

>5 

>o  35 

I  00 

26 

16 

8.5 
6  30 

30 
30 

22 

17 

•3 

18 

7  '5 

I  00 

18 

19 

4  25 

10 

II 

20 

3  20 

20 

5 

21 

5  20 

25 

9 

22 

2  25 

23 

6  15 

•  (?) 

24 

7  50 

20 

64 

2.5 

6  55 

30 

26 

8  00 

I  00 

-• 

,^ 


Tilli  LAUY  FUA^KLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


295 


\c  clogs  disgorged 
lue.  Sti>inicd  at 
cyond  \vc  irossed 
vyc  lould  reach, 
out  3So"""J  wide, 
lint.  At  1 1  a.  m. 
hiring  the  inarch, 

threatening  snow, 
re  28'^  [-2.2  C.|; 
n  the  e.ist  raging, 
rt-storm  from  tlie 
^  C.J ;  barometer, 
nd  fug. 


ways  ahead  of  the 
;nt  at  Jbsil  Norris 
e  slats.    The  dogs 


MilM. 

DiiWnce  traveled  out  (604-144). ao4 

iJiiUnce  IraveleU  back  (O4  j  104) iWJ 

37a 
Kecunnaissances,  &c ^i 

Total  miles  traveled  .... . .-.•  .    437 

Distance  tietween  heatls  ufGreely  ami  Archer  Fiurdii  (about) 85 

Allttiiilfs  hy  barometer  (reduced). 
[Above  lea-level.] 


Locality. 


Mount  Diflicult... 

('ani)i  VIII  (near  Mount  Easy). 
Mount  ICsy  ................. 

I.ako  Carolyn 

Mouth  of  Kocky  (iully 

Camp  IX  (in  valley) 

Camp  X  (yap) 

Lake  Nan 

Camp  XI  (near  glaciei  wall)  .. 


Feet. 

Meter*. 

4.444 

1 

1.354 

680 

207   1 

a.  730 

83a   ' 

i.ios 

337 

340 

104   , 

420 

12S 

685 

209 

920 

280 

1,240 

378 

Locality. 


Feet. 


Diviile:  , 

At  foot  of  glacier  wall '  2,210 

Two  or  tliree  n\iles  noilli . .    2, 610 

Lake  Harry 1  1,320 

Lake  Ites»ie ^  l.'ijo 

Mount  Hulton. ,  a, 008 

Camp  XII  (near Mount  Hutton).'   1,528 

Lake  lieyond..      *o 

Fossil  Mount  (near  Z'^'thest)..    3, 140 


Meters. 


674 

795 
402 

497 
612 
466 
»o 
652 


a.  m.,  temperature 


;t 


].     Snowing.     At 

ard's  snow-shoes; 
of  Christiansen's 

m.  left  camp  and 
able,  worse  than 

ently  go  up  .ibove 
ul  to  be  left.  At 
transferring  what 


Sledge  ration. 

Ounce*. 

Meat  (English  cortied  beef,  bacon,  sausage,  or  musk-meat) ....... 33 

Butter 3 

Bread lo 

Beans  or  jwlatoes 4 

Tea  or  chocolate,  avemge  aliout . I 

Sugar .      2 

Milk yi 

Salt ^ 

Pepper A 

Alcohol 6 


Total  food . 42 

Total  ration ..... . . . 48 


v 

ours 

S^ 

route . 

tA 

h.  m. 

Q 

Q 

h.  m. 

8  40 

I   00 

26 

10  35 

I   00 

26 

8  15 

30 

22 

6  30 

30 

'3 

7  '5 

I  00 

18 

4  25 

to 

II 

3  20 

20 

S 

5  20 

25  !       9 

2   25 

6  '5 

I   (?) 

7  50 

20 

(,4 

<>  55 

30 

8  00 

I  00    J 

Outfit  (Icavitig  Fort  Conger). 

Pound*. 

Tent  poles  and  pins,  36 ;  rubber  blanket,  6^^  ;  ax  and  shovel,  12 54^^ 

2-man  bulTalo  sleeping-bag,  22  ;  dog-skin  sleeping-bag  (1 -man),  12 34 

Lamp,  5  ;  2  pairs  snow  shoes,  6 ;  sextant,  S:c.,  9I2 20^ 

Telescope,  field  glasses,  and  compasses 8 

Shotgun,  rifle,  and  ammunition,  27  ;  medicine,  4 31 

Cook's  bag,  1 2 ;  clothing-bags,  30;  extra  lashings,  5 ............ 47 


Sledge. 


'95 
109 

304 


Little  sled,  25  ;  shelter  ieii',  poles,  and  pins,  10  ■  lo,::>,  l|i  ;  2  knapsacks,  6 42^^ 

90  rations  (3  men  3od.-,i   |.  3/0  lbs.  less  40  lbs    H  (  hllock  Depot 230 

3  sacks  of  |>emmican  'li  ig-  cjodj  . ..... 385 


Total. 


961  >^ 


*  Assumed. 


I  ■ 


f  li 


ih' 


ii 


!    ! 


t  .    'HI- 


I 


' 


■I 


I :  "^     'a  ■ 
!  M 


III      M 


Um 


f 


■I 


t  I' 


296 


TUE  LADY  FRAXKLIN  15AY  EXrEDITIOX. 


O/////'/  <>/  little  slcilf^e  {May  8,  1883). 

Shelter  tent,  10;  sleepingbaKS,  34;  lamp,  5  ;  ax,  6I4  ;  sextant,  2 57!^ 

I  lorizon,  I ;  me'Cury,  2 ;  telescope,  j  '4  ;  compasses,  2 ^% 

Shotgun,  S-i^' ;  amr'niition,  ('4  ;  extra  lashings,  J  ;  medicine,  2 16 

Cook'.T  i)at;,  6;  _{  clothiiif;  hags,  () ;  iiibht'i- hlankcl,  O'j . 21 1^ 

RecordhaH  and  Hags,  j;  spare  slat,  2 5 

108  li 
Small  lami),  knapsacks,  and  snow-shoes . 13)^ 

II  days'  rations  for  3,  at  45  ounces*  (7  ounces  hread  instead  of  10) 92;'+ 

I  sack  penr.iiican  (dogfoodj I'J'i 

Total 1,^^% 

J.  15.  LOCKWOOI', 

Second  Lieutenant,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  Acting  Signal  Officer. 


Washington,  n.  C,  yune  30,  1885. 

Sir  :  In  compliance  with  your  instructions  of  this  date,  I  liavc  the  honor  to  submit  tlie  following  report 
relative  to  tiie  discovery  of  fossils,  &c.,  on  the  southern  shore  of  dreely  Fiord,  in  latitude  80°  48.5'  N.,  longi- 
tude 78°  26'  W.,  the  farthest  western  point  attained  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  myself  during  the  spring 
journey  of  1883. 

The  cliffs  at  tliis  place  presented  a  broken  and  formidable  front,  and  were  so  abrupt  that  we  could  not 
scale  them  directly.  However,  by  following  a  deep  and  rocky  ravine,  we  managed  finally  to  reach  the 
summit  of  the  cliffs.  I  quote  from  Liv.atenant  Lockwood's  journal :  "  These  clitVs  have  an  altitude,  per 
barometer,  of  2,140  feet  [652'"];  almost  a  vertical  fall  of  that  immense  height.  •  •  •  En  route  we 
found  a  number  of  fossils  of  what  seemeil  to  be  trees,  snakes,  fish,  &c.  IJrainard  was  the  first  to  notice 
them." 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  doubdess  intended  to  say  that  the  altitude  of  the  mountain  back  of  the  cliffs, 
instead  of  the  cliffs  projier,  was  2,140  feet  [652'"].     Remarking  on  this  journey  to  the  summit,  my  notes  say. 

".Vfter  a  hard  climb  for  over  three  hours  we  reached  the  high  oiintry  back  of  the  line  of  cliffs  by  means 
of  a  deep  ravine,  which  o|)ens  near  our  camp.  By  barometric  mcisurement  the  summit  was  found  to  be 
2,250  feet  |685"'|  above  the  sea-level. 

"On  the  top  of  the  mountain,  as  well  as  along  the  edge  of  the  line  of  cliffs,  we  found  fossilized  marine 
animals  and  petrified  wood  and  coral  in  great  quantities.  The  most  remarkable  iliscovery  of  this  character 
was  the  stump  of  a  petrified  tree  firmly  embedibul  in  the  frozen  earth,  its  protruding  roots  so  perfect  and  its 
structure  so  complete  that,  in  cur  minds,  no  tloubt  existed  as  to  i's  original  growth  where  it  then  stood.  It 
was  about  10  inches  [about  250"""]  above  the  groumi,  and  in  diameter  about  6  inches  [about  150"""].  Not 
being  able  to  extricate  it,  we  contented  ourselves  with  a  small  fragment,  which  we  broke  off  by  striking  the 
stump  sharply  with  a  large  stone." 

'J'liis  remnant  of  a  tree  was  located  in  the  ravine  through  wliich  we  asceni'ed  the  mountain,  and,  as  I 
recollect,  was  at  an  elevation  of  about  1,500  feet  (about  450'"  |,  or  near  the  top  of  the  cliffs,  along  which  we 
found  in  the  greatest  profusiov,  pieces  of  petrified  wood  anti  the  fossil  remains  of  shell-fish,  snails,  &c.  I  do 
not  remember  that  anything  if  a  similar  nature  was  found  below  this  altitude,  and  the  fact  that  the  ground 
was  covered  with  sncw  to  a  dejjth  of  several  inches  along  our  route  to  this  point  would  seem  to  entitle  this 
opinion,  although  formed  at  a  late  ilay,  to  considerable  weight. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

I).  L.  Hkainakd, 

Sergeant,  Signal  Corps, 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  (Ireely, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  U.  S.  Army,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant. 


*. Should  lie  43;^  ounces,  as  alcohol  was  reduced   to  5  ounces  and  no  inUk  was  taken  along. 


:ilU> 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


297 


Appendix  No.  87. — Orders  to  Dr.  Pary  relative  to  natural  history  data. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnki.i.  Land,  May  1,  1883. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  request  that  you  furnish  nie  not  later  than  May  31,  1883,  with  the  following 


infoimation: 

I.  A  list  of  all  plants  collected  since  August   11,  1881 


I'his'  list  will  show  the  generic  and  specific 
names  when  :.nown.  Plants  unknown  will  he  referred  tc  under  the  numbers  given  them,  as  directed  in  a 
communication  of  this  date.  The  earliest  date  on  which  the  plants  were  known  to  be  in  blossom  will  he 
given.  If  this  is  not  known  it  will  be  stated  in  each  case.  In  rases  of  rare  plants,  the  name  of  the  collector 
will  be  given. 

2.  A  list  of  all  birds  procured  since  August  ii,  1881.  In  case  of  stuftcd  specimens,  there  will  in  all 
cases  be  given  its  numlier,  its  sex,  the  locality  and  time  obtained,  and  the  name  -if  the  collector.  Unknown 
birds  will  be  referred  to  with  reference  to  their  numbers  The  ilate  of  each  bird's  ai)i)earancc  will  be  given, 
or  if  not  known  the  record  will  so  set  forth. 

3.  A  list  of  all  insects  (adding  spiders  to  this  list)  with  data  therefor,  similar  to  that  required  for  lists 
I  and  2. 

4.  5,  and  6.  Similar  lists  of  mammalia,  fishes,  and  moUusca. 

7  and  8,  List  of  all  Eskimo  remains  and  driftwood  which  arc  in  your  ciiarge,  with  full  and  clear  data 
as  to  the  character,  the  time  and  place,  and  by  whom  obtained.  Where  specimens  have  been  transferred  to 
the  commanding  officer  or  other  person,  you  will  so  state. 

9.  A  list  showmg,  with  their  numbers,  all  other  collections  made,  but  which  do  not  come  under  the 
heads  above  enumerated. 

It  is  desired  that  you  add  to  tlicsc  lists  such  other  data  or  remarks  as  will  facilitate  the  speedy  descrip- 
tion of  these  collections  on  the  return  of  this  expedition,  or  as  will  secure  similar  results  if  it  becomes  neces- 
sar3'  to  abandon  them.     Such  assistance,  clerical  and  otherwise,  as  is  necessary  for  this  work  w  ill  be  furnished 
you,  on  your  request,  between  the  hours  of  y  a.  m.  and  3  p.  m.  dailj. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieut,,  Fijih  dm,  A,  S.  0,  and  Assisttint,  Commanding- 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  0.  Paw, 

U.  S.  Army. 


Appendix  No.  88. — Orders  to  Dr.  Pavy  relative  to  botanical  specimens. 

Fort  Concf.r,  Grinnei.i,  Land,  JA/r  2,  1883. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  request  that  you  deliver  me  not  later  than  May  20,  1883,  six  complete  sets 
of  plants  obtained  by  this  expedition  since  August  11,  1881.  These  sets  are  to  be  separate,  and  in  their 
arrangement  should  be  made  as  light  anil  compact  as  possible  to  admit  of  being  easily  stowed  in  case  of  a 
retreat  by  boats.  It  is  intended  that  each  officer  of  the  expedition  shall  be  charged  with  duplicate  sets  in 
case  of  such  retreat,  in  preparation  for  which  these  sets  are  needeil.  One  set  will  be  numbered  from  one 
upwards  in  order  for  easy  reference  iiereafter. 

If  reasons  exist  why  certain  specimens  (such  as  fungi)  cannot  be  so  arranged,  you  will  state  by  letter 
giving  their  number,  and,  when  known,  their  generic  and  sjiccitic  names. 

Lichens  and  friable  .specimens  will  be  arranged  in  light  pasteboard  boxes. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Grfeiv, 
First  Lieut.,  Li/t/i  Cav.,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 
Actnig  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Paw, 

U.  S.  Army. 


iU 


A 


\-  1 1 


". 


I  !  f 


it 


\i 


If 

!  I  Hi! 


'       i! 


:i;i 

'!;i 
i(.( 


■--f. 


298 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITIOlir. 


Appkndix  No.  89. — Orders  I0  Lieutenant  Lockivood  to  relieve  Dr.  Pavy  as  naturalist. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yune  i,  1883. 

[Orders  No.  2.] 

Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O.,  will  relieve  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon 
O.  Pavy,  U.  S.  Army,  of  the  duties  of  naturalist  of  this  expedition.  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  on 
receipt  of  this  order,  will  transfer  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  all  collections  and  specimens  in  his  charge 
[*  with]  an  inventory  [thereof].  He  will  also  furnish  as  fiir  as  practicable  such  data  as  will  enable  Lieutenant 
Lockwood  to  make  the  written  reports  required  by  communications  from  the  commanding  oflicer  to  Dr. 
Pavy  under  date  of  May  i  and  2,  1883.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  will  make  the  report  required  by  the  above- 
mentioned  communications  within  five  days  from  the  completion  of  the  inventory  of  specimens. 

You  are  advised  that  at  lease  six  hours  daily  will  be  given  to  this  work  until  the  completion  of  this 
transfer. 

The  portion  of  the  collections  made  by  Dr.  Pavy  which  he  may  desire  to  keep  as  personal,  and  which 
are  not  needed  to  perfect  the  official  collections,  can  be  retained  by  him,  awaiting  final  approval  by  the 
Chief  Signal  Ofiicer  of  the  Army. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  LifiifeHaitf,  Fifth  Cwaliy,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Cmnmandini;  the  Ladj  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.  90. — Lieutenant  Ljjcktvood''  s  report  on  natural  history  specimens  received  from 

Dr.  Pavy. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yune  10,  1883. 

Sir  :  In  reply  to  your  communication  of  the  8th  instant,  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  herewith  a  copy 
of  the  "list  of  specimens"  turned  over  to  me  by  Dr.  Pavy,  which  is  the  only  written  data  received  from  him 
pertaining  to  the  transfer  or  to  the  reports  required  by  you,  and  is  substantially  the  only  information  elicited, 
either  written  or  verbal.     My  efforts  to  obtain  anything  more  Iiave  been  unsuccessful. 

The  "condition  of  the  sjiecimens"  I  can  best  state  in  detail,  though,  as  there  was  no  complete  itemized 
list  of  any  portion,  it  was  difficult  to  know  what  was  of  the  collection  and  what  not.  All  the  mounted 
plants  were  in  your  possession ;  the  others  in  vials  with  alcohol,  in  small  boxes  or  bags,  or  in  tlie  large  tank 
with  birds,  &c.  The  stulTed  birds  were,  with  a  few  exceptions,  wrajjped  in  paper  and  packed  in  boxes;  those 
not  stuffed  were  in  vials  with  alcohol  or  in  the  tank  referred  to.  The  insects  (all  much  covered  with  dust) 
were  on  cork,  in  two  small  boxes,  one  open  and  the  other  nailed  up,  also  in  many  small  match-boxes,  vials 
&c.  The  two  ermines  and  hares  were  in  the  box  with  the  birds ;  most  of  the  other  animals  in  vials  with 
alcohol,  as  were  alsr  •  'he  various  water  organisms,  fishes,  &c.  The  Eskimo  relics  were  mostly  packed  in  one 
large  box,  together  with  most  of  the  fossils,  shells,  &c.  Most  of  the  deer  antlers  were  in  a  box  together. 
The  musk-ox  skins  were  on  the  roof  of  the  house,  and  the  skeletons  on  the  tripod  or  under  the  ice  in  the 
water.  None  of  the  skeletons  are  yet  prepared.  The  only  specimens  regularly  packed  in  boxes  were  the 
stuffed  birds  and  animals  (with  perhaps  a  few  exceptions),  some  of  the  insects,  and  most  of  the  Eskimo  relics, 
fossils,  deer  anders,  iVc.  The  appended  list  embraces,  with  a  few  exceptions,  all  of  the  specimens  labeled, 
but  many  were  found  without  any  descriptive  data  attached,  and  few  or  none  with  such  data  complete.  The 
Eskimo  relics  almost  wholly  wnnted  any  data  by  which  they  could  be  identified.  The  specimens  were  found 
in  and  outside  of  three  wall  tents,  occupied  also  by  medical  stores  and  the  |)ersonal  effects  of  Dr.  Pavy. 
The  collection  generally  was  very  much  confused,  and  no  attempt  at  arrangement  according  to  classes, 
numbers,  or  otherwise,  or  at  keeping  it  separate  and  distinct,  was  apparent. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obeilient  servant, 

J.  T?.  LocKWoon, 
Second  Lieutenant,  Ticenty-tliinl  Infantry,  A.  S.  O. 

First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Gkeklv, 

Fifth  CaTulrv,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding. 


^Braclieted  words  doulitfuf  owiiiij  to  illcgibifity  of  letterpress  Copy.— A.  \V.  G. 


'U. 


THE  LAI>Y  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


299 


naturalist, 
'une  I,  1883. 

\ssistant  Surgeon 
;eon  O.  Pavy,  on 
ns  in  his  charge 
nable  Lieutenant 
ing  oflicer  to  Dr. 
ed  by  the  above- 
mens. 
ompletion  of  this 

sonal,  and  which 
approval  by  the 

LY, 

ssistauf, 

V  Expedition. 


s  received  from 

iue  10,  1883. 
:  herewith  a  copy 
eceived  from  him 
brmation  ehcited, 

omplete  itemized 
All  the  mounted 
in  the  large  tank 

in  boxes;  those 
ivered  with  dust) 
atch-boxes,  vials^ 

als  in  vials  with 
;ly  packed  in  one 
a  box  together, 
ler  the  ice  in  the 

boxes  were  the 
le  Kskimo  relics, 

ciiuens  labeled, 
complete.     The 

ens  were  found 

ts  of  Dr.  Pavy. 
ding  to  classes, 


Avonn, 
i.  S,  O. 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnei.l  Land,  yung  1,  1883. 
Zisto/  /lints  from  yuly,  1881,  to  August,  1882.     Box  Nos.  i  aiht  2. 


*^ 


No.  503. 
504. 

50S' 
506. 
44. 
507. 
508. 
509. 
510. 

S'«- 
512. 

in- 
514. 

5'5- 

5.6. 

517- 
518. 
SI9. 

522. 

523- 
526. 

524. 

527- 

528. 
529- 
530. 
S3I- 

532. 

533- 


1882. 


Black  r.uillemot,  Creenlaml,  July,  18S1. 
I-aras  Claucus,  Discovery  Harbor,  June  4. 
Hernicla  lireiila,  Discovery  Harljor,  June  2, 
Hernicla  Brenta,  Discovery  Harbor. 
Snow  bunting,  by  Drainard,  Cape  Bryant. 
Turnstone,  Discovery  Harl>or,  June  8,  1882. 
(iuillemots,  near  Littleton  Islantl,  July,  1881. 
Saniliiiper,  Discovery  llarlxir,  June,  1882. 
Turnstone,  Discovery  Harbor,  June  8,  1S82. 
Sandpiper,  Discovery  Harbor,  June,  1882. 
Dovekie,  Discovery  Harbor,  June,  1882. 
Dovekie,  Discovery  Harbor,  June,  1882. 
King  duck  (male),  Discovery  Harl)or,  June  18,  1882. 
King  duck,  Discovery  Harlmr,  June,  1882. 
Long  tailed  duck  (female).  Discovery  Harlwr,  June, 

1882. 
Long  taileil  duck  (male),  Discovery  Harbor,  June, 

1882. 
Long  tailed  duck  (male).  Discovery  Harbor,  June, 

1882. 
niacus  [Claucous]  Ciull,  Discoveiy  Harbor,  June, 

23,  1882. 
King  duck  (male),  Discovery  Harbor,  June  30,  1S82. 
Eider  duck  (male),  Dutch  Island,  July  2,  1882. 
Skua,  Discovery  Harl>or,  July  10,  1882. 
Sabine  gull,  shot  by  Schneider,  Discovery  Harbor, 

July  8,  1882. 
Kider  duck.  Discovery  Harbor,  July  10,  1882. 
Skua,  Discovery  Harbor,  July  10,  1882. 
Turnstone,  Discovery  Harbor,  July  10,  1882. 
Turnstone,  Discovery  H.irbor,  July  20,  1882. 
Krmine,  shot  by  Henry,  Discovery  Harbor,  July  22, 

1882. 
Ermine  (male),  shot  by  Jewell,  Discoveiy  Harbor, 

July  26,  1882. 
Eider  duck,  shot  by  Long,  Di-scovery  Harlx)r,  July 

27,  1882. 


534.  Claucus  [Cilaucous]  gull.  Lake  Alexander  [Alexandra] 
Council,  .Vug.  I,  1882. 

521.   Hare,  by  Lt.  Lockwood,  Greenland  Coast,  Rabbit  I'niut. 

ip  Boxes  3.  Lichens. 

No.  10?.  Samples  of  driftwood  from  pieces  found  at  St.  Pat- 
rick's Kay  and  Discovery  Harbor.  Descrip- 
tive li.st  in  the  hand  of  commanding  ollicer. 
Mark  on  samples :    (l  —  2  —  X  —  II   —  NC 

—  4  'l.V  r.  —  VIH        V—  .\I   (11) 

-Vll       3. 

I  Box  containing  Eskimo  remains.  To  identify  these  speci- 
mens it  will  be  better  to  be  provided  with  a 
photograph. 

1  set  of  deer  antlers  from  Lake  Ha/en. 

Inbox.  Skull  of  Eskimo,  and  one  se.il  from   Littleton  Island. 
Box  I.   Eggs  collected  in  neighborhood  of  Ft.  Conger,  .\ug., 

1882. 
Barrel  I.  Containing  old  .skull   of   musk-ox   found  at  ( 'aj  e 

liaird  by  Hrainard. 

2  skins,  seal,  small  and  large,  collected  at  Distant  Cape  and 

Discovery  Harbor,  7th  of  June  and  Aug., 
1S82. 

(p  3  sets  of  lichens  in  lliree  boxes  (given  to  connnniuling 
oflicer). 

(p  Fungi  and  plants  in  alcohol  (Fungi  cannot  e.isily  be  trans- 
ported without  being  crushed). 

cp  sets  3,  mounted  plants. 

(p  sets  I  complete,  consisting  of  62  plants  collected  around 
Discovery  Harbor  and  vicinity;  and  in  which 
are  I  fern  (No.  9),  5  grasses  (No.  54,  40,  39, 
35  and  41),  E(|uisetace  [F.i|uisetaceLi]  (No 
56),  3  mosses  (No.  18,  19  ami  51). 

I'Lint  (No.  55)  is  an  Erica  from  Lake  Hazen,  of  which  the 
species  is  not  found  around  Discovery  Harbor. 

Skeleton  to  be  prepared. 

Foxes,  Polar  Hear,  liircl,  Wolf,  Musk-ox  heads. 

A  part  of  these  specimens  will  need  to  have  the  lluid  changed. 

OcTAVK.  Paw, 
A.  A.  Su>xi-i'u,  U.  S,  A. 


Fort  Concer,  Grinnei.t,  Land,  yuvf  i,  1883. 


List  of  specimens  from  yuly,  1881,  to  August,  188.1 


No.    45.  Cape  Delano,  fossils,  Feilden   I'cninsula,  (Irinnell 
Land,  1882. 

80.  Annelida;,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

81.  Annelid;e,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 
79.  CnLstacciV,  Discovery  Harl)or,  July,  1882. 

72.  Annelid;e,  Discovery  Harbor,  June,  1882.  . 

73.  Meilus;v,  Discovery  Harbor,  April,  1882. 

70.  Annelid;e,  Discovery  Harbor,  June,  1882. 
75.  Annelid;e,  Discovery  llarlior,  June,  1882. 

71.  Annelida;,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

66.  Medusa-,  Discovery  Harbor,  June,  1882. 

62.  Molluscoida',  Discovery  Harbor,  .Xugust,  1882. 

67.  Annelida-,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1S82. 


No.    69.  Annelida,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  18.S2. 

74.  Amieli<la',  Discovery  Harbor,  .\ugust,  1SS2. 
65.  Molluscoida  (BrachioiKxhf),  Discovery  Harbor,  July, 
l88«. 

63.  Molluscoida",  Discovery  Harbor,  .\ugust,  1882. 
68.   Medus.a-,  Discovery  Harbor,  May,  1S82. 

64.  Annelida,  Discovery  Harbor,  .\ugust,  1882. 
109.   Mol'uscoida',  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1SS2. 

105.  Molluscoida,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

106.  Rocks,  Bellows. 

88.  Fish,  Discovery  Harbor,  August,  1882. 
82.  Annelid.r,  Discovery  11  irbur,  .\ugust,  1882. 
108.   Rocks,  llellows,  1882. 


ll 


»!  ■ 


^\ 


t| 


^'1 


■'ii: 


300 

No.  107. 
ICX}. 
lOI. 

104. 

98. 

94. 

III. 
112. 

114. 

MS. 
116. 
117. 
118. 
120. 
124. 

127. 
126. 
121. 
125. 
123. 
136. 
129. 
138. 
122. 
130. 
til- 

134- 
133- 
132. 
106. 
no. 

'35- 
140. 

145- 

146. 
141. 
90. 

77- 
78. 
76. 

143- 

144. 

'39- 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Rocks,  Bellows,  1882.  No.    84. 

Shells,  Bellows,  18S2. 

Rocks,  Bellows,  1882.  87. 

Plants,  Lockwood  Island,  1882. 

Metlusie,  Discovery  Harbor,  June,  18S2.  8g. 

Crustacx-  [Crustace;i],  I )iscovery  I I.irlior,  July,  18S2.  149. 

Sand  Star,  t'arl  Hitter  K.iy,  August,  1882.  14S. 

I  lemming,  Discovery  Harbor,  .August,  1887. 

I  lemming.  North  Cireenland  Coast,  by  Lieutenant  147. 

Lockwood.  142. 

Bird,  July,  1882.  156. 

Sounding  near  Littleton  Island,  July,  1882.  157. 

Red  .snow,  Carey  Island,  July,  1882.  158. 

Egg  of  skua.  175. 

Sounding,  Discovery  Harbor,  September  6,  1881.  83. 

Knto/a  [ento/oa]  of  seal  Melville  Bay,  July,  1881.  91, 

Egg  of  benta  [brenta].  Discovery  Harlior,  August,  86. 

1881.  so. 

Cryptogamia;,  Cairn  Hill,  July,  1S81.  83. 

Ku'tus  [fiit.-xl]  hares.  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  iSSl.  ISI 

Alg;t,  Discovery  Ilarljor,  July,  1881.  173. 

Skua.  IS3. 

1  egg.  Discovery  Harbor,  July  2S,  1882.  IS4. 

2  eggs.  Discovery  Harbor,  .\ugust  2,  1882.  93, 
S  turnstones.  Discovery  Harljiit,  August  2,  1882.  102, 
Cryptogamiie,  Discovery  llarlrar,  July,  1882.  95. 
4  ducks.  Discovery  Harlior,  July,  1S82.  96. 
Rocks,  Black  Rock  Vale,  1882.  S^' 
Rocks,  Black  Rock  Vale,  1882. 

Shells,  Bellows,  1882,  43. 

Rocks,  Bellows,  1882.  174. 

Shells  and  t)ones  from  Eskimo  camps,  Bellows,  1882.  1 7 1 

Rocks,  Bellows,  1882.  163. 

Annelida;,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 
Fish,  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  April,  1882. 
Rocks  and  fossils,  Cape  Delons  [Delano],  April, 

1882. 
Rocks   and  fossils.  Cape  Delons   [Delano],  April, 

1882. 
Rocks,  shells,  and  rosin,  Bellows. 
Rocks,  shells,  Lincoln  Bay,  April,  18S2. 
Crustacx>  [crustacea;].  Discovery  Harlior,  July,  1SS2. 
Molluscoidie  (gaslero).  Discovery  HarlKir.July,  1S82. 
Annelida;,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 
Molluiicoidiv  (gastero).  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 
Shells,  Lincoln  B.iy,  April,  1882. 
(  Box)  S  cruslacx'  [orustaceiv],  collect  id  by  Sergeant 

Brainard,  St.  Patrick  Bay. 
Cruslacu'  [crustacciv],  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

"Omission  in  original.— A.  W 


Molluscidie  [niolluscoida;[,  Discovery  Harbor,  July, 
1882. 

Molluscidiv  [molluscoid.e].  Discovery  Harbor,  July, 
1882. 

Fish,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

Crustacx'  [crustace;v].  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

Crustacoe  [crustaccv]  and  shells  from  stomach  of 
seal.  May,  1882. 

Crustac;e  [crustacex],  Discovery  Harbor,  June,  1882. 

Medusa;,  Upernavik  [Upernivik],  July,  1881. 

Medusa;,  Discovery  Harlior,  February,  1882. 

Sand  stars,  Carl  Ritter  Bay,  August,  1882. 

* from  Carl  Ritter  Bay,  August,  1882. 

Molluscoida",  Upernavik  [Upernivik],  July,  1881. 

CrustaCit  [cnistace;v].  Discovery  1  larbor,  .\pril, 1 882. 

Crustaciv  [cru.staceie],  Discoveiy  I  larbor,  April,  1882. 

Mollu.scoid;v,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

Crustaca;  [cru.stacea;].  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

Crustacff  [crustace;e].  Discovery  Harbor,June,  1882. 

Insects,  Discovery  Ilarlwr,  June,  1882. 

Medusie,  Discovery  Harlior,  April,  1882. 

Sand  stars,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

Medusa;  collected  at  head  of  Archer's  Fiord . 

Crustaca;  [crustace.t] ,  Discovery  Harbor,  July,  1882. 

Crustaca;  [crustacea;].  Discovery  Harbor,  May. 

Annelida',  Discovery  Harlior,  February,  1882. 

CrustaciE  [crustacea;].  Discovery  Harbor,  iMay,  1882. 

I'arosites  [parasites]  of  ptarmigan,  Discovery  Harbor, 
1883. 

Rocks  from  Cape  Britannia. 

Rocks  from  Lockwood  Island. 

Plants  from  t^ape  Britannia. 

Plants  from  L<ickwoo<l  Island. 

box  (Nos.  I  and  2),  (Masse  [class]  Insecta:  Hymen- 
optua  [Hymenopteni],  I.eiiydoptua  [Lepidop- 
tera]  ;  Diptera,  Heniiplera;  Anopura,  Arach- 
nida. 

I  box  reindeer  bones,  Discovery  Harlior,  1882. 

3  ermines. 

I  glass  jar,  salmonidn  [salmonida:].  Lake  Alexandra, 
August,  1882. 

;■  glass  jars,  water  from  palcocrystric  berg,  18S2. 

3  specimens  of  musk-oxen. 

3  kegs,  rocks.  Watercourse  Bay  and  Discovery  Har- 
bor, 1882. 

I  barrel,  coal  and  fossils  from  Watercourse  Bay. 

Petrilication  (Brainard),  Discovery  Harlmr,  1882. 

Petrilication  of  whale,  Archer's  Fiord,  August,  1882. 

Large  log  from  Archer's  Fiord,  August,  1882. 

.G. 


1'      a       i  I 


1  1 


Appendix  No.  91. — Licutciiaitt  LockwooiVs  letter  and  report  on  natural  history  specimens. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnki.l  Land,  June  30,  1883. 
Sir:  Tn  coi  jiliaiice  with  your  instructions  of  tlic  ist  and  8th  instant,  I  have  the  lionor  to  sul)niit  tiie 
iifronipanyiii;    inventdry  of  collectidns  in   iKitura!    liistory,  i'lassified  and  arranged,  as  far  as  practicable 
a^i-ording  to  )our  directions  and  embracing  all  the  data  on  the  subject  in  my  possession. 


THE  LADY  FllANKLIN  WAY  EXPEDITION. 


301 


All  adililions  to  the  collection  receiveil  since  I  have  been  in  charge  are  iDidrrscoird,  and  shown  gen- 
erally at  the  end  of  each  list.  Si)ecimens  dated  prior  to  June  i,  1883,  or  without  date,  were  collected  before 
the  transfer  of  these  articles  to  my  custody. 

Some  birds  and  a  few  skeletons,  hides,  i\:c.  (articles  in  the  course  of  i)rei)aration  mostly),  yet  remain  to 
be  added  to  this  inventory,  it  not  being  convenient  to  put  tiiem  on  at  present. 
I  am,  very  respectfully, 

J.  ]?.  Lock  WOOD, 
Srcoiii/  Lieutenant,  Iweuiy-tliird  JiiJ'antiy,  A.  S.  O. 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  C'iRKPlv, 

Fifth  Cava/ry,  A,  S.  O.  am/  Assistiuit,  Comniandii\^. 


Indosurc  to  Appendix  No.  91. — Jnvento-y  of  colleetwns  in  natural  history, 

INDEX. 

I.  Plants  (incluiling  fungi) 302 

II.  Birds.. 305 

III.  i... sects  (including  spiders) J08 

IV.  Miimmalia 308 

V.  Kishes 308 

VI.  Mollusca((?),  Crustacea(i''),  Annclida((),  Medusa(r/),  Star  lisli(.)  (<■  includes  soundings  and  dredging  specimens) 309 

VII.  Kskimo  remains 311 

VIII.   Drift  wood 313 

IX.  Rocks,  shells,  fossils,  and  petrifactions 314 

X.   Horns,  Imnes,  and  skeletons 315 

XI.   Hides  and  skins ' 315 

XII.  Miscellaneous  (eggs,  &C.V      Game  killed  in  1883 316 


Box 

Barrel 

Small  barrel 

Keg 

Barrel  _ 

Keg 

Box 

Barrel 

Do 

Box 

Barrel 

Do 

Crate 

Small  box 

Do 

Barrel 

Small  box 

Barrel  ._ 

Box 

Do 

Barrel 

Box 

Small  Ixjx 

(-'rate 

I'ackage . 

.Small  box 

Box 

Do 

Small  box 

Do... 

Box 

Do... 

Log 

Small  box 


A. 
B. 
C. 
D. 
E. 
F. 
G. 
H. 
I. 

J- 

K. 

L. 

M. 

N. 

O. 

1>. 

<^ 
K. 
S. 
T. 
U. 
V. 

w. 

X. 
Y. 
Z. 

AA. 
BB. 
CC. 
DD. 


EE. 
FF." 


Eskimo  remains  (mostly). 

Birds  (stuHed). 

Pelrilicd  tree. 

Coal  from  coal  mine. 

Rocks,  fossils,  &c. 

Rock  crystals. 

Reindeer  horns. 

Rocks  and  fossils  mostly. 

Muskox  skull,  hare  skins,  salmon,  trout,  &c. 

Seal  in  alcohol,  19  ([Uarts  alcohol  to  4  quarts  water. 

Stufl'ed  birds. 

Do. 
Drift  wood. 
Bottles  and  vial.'-  with  specimens  in  alcohol. 

Do. 
Insects,  plants  from  83°  24',  &c. 
No.  229,  lichens,  mosses,  &c. 
Stuffed  birds. 
79«.  793.  794,  hides. 
Bones  of  bear  and  musk-oxen. 
Stulfcd  birds. 

8-IO,  811,  816,  musk  ox  calves'  hides,  and  814,  musk-ox  bull  hides  and  skull. 
Chielly  coal  from  coal  mine  containing  fossils. 
Deer  antlers  and  sledge  from  Distant  (.'ape. 
651,  niannnal  bones  from  Klla  Bay. 
Few  plants  in  bottle  of  alcohol  .n  oil  can. 

>  Skill's  of  ^2  doien  musk-oxen,  skeletons  ol  wolf,  owl,  and  fox. 

(85  0  eggs. 

Can  containing  birds  in  alcohol. 

Tank  U.  S.  Fish  Connn'ssion,  containing  birds  in  alcohol. 

Lichens,  by  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  (in  two  tin  boxes). 

(671)  F.llaliay. 

Moss  collected  near  station,  summer  1883. 


I 
i 

t 

i 

I 


I 


ill 


: 

'         i  i 

j    :i 

1 

i| 

i 

*  lit 


!lJR 


III 


t    I 


!        1 


11,1'. 


1        I 

1        I 


302  THE  LADY  FliANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Inclosure  to  Appeiuiix  No,  91. — Inventory  of  collections  in  natural  history — Continued. 

•I. -Plants. 


i 

i 
"A 

St 
I 

a 

1 

'J 

tit 

0 

6 
'A 

4 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 

2 

3 
5 
8 

6 
2 

6 

3 
C 

c 

c 

3 

Si 

I 

2 

3 

4 

i 

7 

8 

9 
10 

II 
12 

'3 
•4 
«S 
16 

17 
18 

'9 
20 

21 
22 
23 

24 

25 

26 

27 
28 

29 
30 
3« 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 

4" 

42 
43 
44 
45 
46 

47 
48 

49 
50 

5' 

Name. 

c 

1 

g 

A. 

li. 

(,'. 

Remarks,  shosviiif;  |.;cniis  and  species 
and  name  ol'  collector  of  rare  speci 
mens. 

I. 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
2 
2 

2 
2 

2 
2 

2 
2 
I 
2 
2 

2. 

3- 

4. 

I. 

2 

2. 

3. 

■• 

2. 

3- 

Mounted  pUinls.^ 

Found  in  blossom  June  23,  I883. 
Found  in  blossom  June  8,  1883. 

Compositie.    In  hlosssom  June  25, 1883. 
In  l)lossom  June  14,  1883. 
Oppositifolia,  noticed  in  bloom  lune 

I,  i8S2,Jun.;6,i,S83. 
Ranunculus,  no.'iced  in  bloom  June  19, 

1883. 
CompositiC.   In  blossom  June  23, 1883. 
Inlilossom  June  13,  1883. 
I'apaver  alpinum.     lu  blossom   June 

17.  1883. 
Compositit.     In  blossom  June,  1SS3. 
Crucifenv  (in  bloom).  In  blossom  June 

16,  ICSS3. 
Crucifenv  (in  seed). 
I'edicularis  cuspilala  or  nelsonii. 
In  blossom  June  6,  1S83. 

In  blossom  June,  I883. 

Salix  .irctica,  noticed  in  bloom  June  2, 
1882,  June  6,1883. 

Cruciferne.     In  bloom  June  8,  1S83. 
In  bloom  June  17,1883. 

In  bloom  June  22,  1883. 
Kammculus.     In  bloom  June  I7,  1883. 
Noticed  in  bloom  June  5,  1882,  |une 
6,  1S83. 

In  bloom  June  23,  I883. 
In  bloom  June  8,  1883. 
In  bloom  June  — ,  1883. 
In  bloom  June  — ,  1883. 

In  bloom  June  22,  1S83. 
In  bloom  June  14,  1883. 

---- 

-  ■ 

2 

I 

2 

2 
2 
2 

2 

... 

.... 

--- 

... 

I 

^ 

I'liiplc  saxifrage. 

2 

... 

... 

I 

... 

.    j 

: 

2 
2 

I 
2 

1 

I 

\'cllo\v  noDDV        ' 

... 

2 

.... 

2 

2 

... 

4 
6 
8 

2 
8 
2 
6 

4 
4 
6 
6 
S 
5 
9 
S 

4 
4 
4 
S 
7 
4 
4 
3 
I 

S 
2 
I 
'> 

I 
I 
2 

4 
I 

I 
I 

2 

I 
I 
I 

2 
I 

I 

..... 

2 
I 

4 

... 

2 

Mo.ss 

2 

....do 

Willow ' 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
I 
2 
2 

2 

2 
I 

2 

2 
I 

I 

I 

2 

... 

I 

2 





... 

...    2 

... 



.... 

2 

2 
2 
2 

... 

..... 

4 

... 

2 

—  - 

..... 

t 

I 

3 
2 

I 
2 

I 

I 

2 
2 
3 
1 

2 

2 

.!. 

f jrass 

-- 

--- 

1 

1 

1 

• 

... 

2 

I 

... 

(Irass  . 

<lo 

! 

...  <lo 

--- 

I 

2 



.... 

"1 

t 

1 





I 

1 

Muss 

I 
I 

1 

... 

1 

... 

... 

... 

*  Data  as  to  plants  f  ruiii  Lieutenant  Grcely'.s  notes  and  diary. 


t  All  found  In  vicinity  of  Fort  Conyar,  G,  L. ;  exceptions  noted. 


r  s  I'll 


■'WP'S^ 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


303 


itinued. 


Inclosure  to  Appendix  No.  ()i  .—/nvenlory  of  collections  in  titj/um/  /lis/ory—ConUnued. 

I. — Plants— Continued. 


IK  genus  and  spiciis 
ullcctor  of  nin'  spcci 


11  luiic  2J,  I8S3. 
11  June  8,  1883. 

lossom  |une2S,  iSSj. 

14.  1883. 

liced  in  liloom  June 

i,  1S83. 

:ed  in  lilooiii  June  19, 

lossom  June  23,  i88j. 

13.  »883- 

.     Ill  blossom   June 

)Iossom  June,  18S3, 
111).   In  blossom  June 

:1). 

ata  or  nelsonii. 

5,  1883. 

I883. 


:ed  in  bloom  |une  2, 

jom  June  8, 1883. 
I883. 


1883. 

lom  June  I7,  1883. 
June's,  'S82,  June 


ISS3. 

1X3. 

1SS3. 

1883. 


883. 
S83. 


i 

0 

d 

I 

Si 

is 

a 
u 

e 
1 

m 

d 
'A 

1 

2 

I 
I 
I 
4 

4 
2 
I 

id 
1 

.I" 

a 
a 
3 

ss 
sf 

57 
58 
59 
60 

61 
62 

64 

Name. 

■s. 
S 

A. 

H. 

V. 

Keiiiaiks,  slio« inn  K^'""^  •"""'  species 
and  name  of  eullector  of  larc  speci- 
mens. 

I. 

2. 

3- 

4. 

I 

2 

I 

I. 

2. 

3- 

I 

I. 

2. 

3- 

Moiiiih;/  /■liints — 
Cnnlinucd. 

Krica  from  Lake  I  la/en. 
Eipiisclaceie. 

Saxifr.ajja  tlaj^ellaris.     In  bluom  June 

ly,  1SS3, 
Composite.     In  lilooni  Jum'  27.  I883. 

In  bloom  June  20,  1SS3. 

_  -  _- 

— 

— - 

I 

I 

I 

I 
I 
I 

— 

— 

.. 

MOUNTED  PLANTS  COLLECTED  AND  MOUNTED  JUNE 


TO  JULY  25,  1883. 


Kceptions  noted. 


M       f'No.of 
No.  of, 

,     .      speci 
plants.     '  _ 


I 

2 
3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
lo 
II 
12 
«3 
«4 
"5 
16 

'7 
18 

'9 
20 
21 

22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 

3« 
32 

33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 


12 
12 

12 

14 

1 6 
•5 
•4 
•3 
»4 
16 
12 
14 

12 

12 

12 


9 

12 

47 
•3 
«4 
12 

14 
14 
'3 
'5 
•  S 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
'3 
14 
14 
12 


Name. 


Woodsia  ilvensis . 


Sa.xifraya  oppositifolia 


I'apavcr  alpimnii 

Taraxaeuni,  Dens  leonis 


No.  12  in  seed 

I'ediculuris,  Nelsonii 


Moss 

...do 

Salix  arctica 


Saxifraga  tricuspidata 


Ranunculus  nivalis . 


Lycopodium  selago  , 


Colpodium  latifolium . 


„       r  No.of 
No.  of  I 

P'''"'^-   mens. 


39 
40 

4« 

42 
43 
44 
45 
46 

47 
48 

49 
50 
5> 
52 
53 
54 
55 
56 
57 
58 
59 

60 
61 
62 

63 
64 

65 
66 

67 
68 
69 
70 


Name. 


12 
16  , 

9  !  Identity  doubtful. 

2    


12 

«3 
12 


I  No.  4  going  to  seed 

I  Suspected  to  be  No.  20 


8  i  Moss  . 


12 
12 


«4 

16 

«5 
12 


12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
"4 


F'.rica  . 

Ki|uisetHm  varieg.ituni ._ 

Suspected  to  be  leaves  of  No.  21 


Found  by   Lieutenant   Greely;    identity  with 
No.  59  doubtful. 


Suspected  to  be  variety  of  No.  2. 
I'ound  by  Sergeant  Cro.ss 


Found  by  Lieut.  Greely;   variety  of  No.  15 

I'robably  variety  No.  23 


71 

12 

72 

12 

73 

12 

74 



Found  by  Henry 

Horsetail  found  liy  Sergeant  Elison.     Ec|uise- 
tuni  arvense. 

Found  by  Cross;   variety  of  No.  23 

Found  by  Klison;  variety  of  No.  23 

Found  by  Ralston 

Founil  by  Elison  ;  not  mounted 


!« 


3'  !•)♦! 


1 

1  * 


11 


h 

V 

i  1 

■  i 
1  \ 

\ 

■9}>s 


^'. 


304 


THE  LyVDY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Inclosure  to  Appiudix  91. — Inventory  of  coUectiotts  in  natural  history — Continued. 
MOUNTKIi  I'l.ANTS  COLLECTED  AND  MOUNTED  JUNE  —  TO  JI'LY  25,  1883-Continued. 


No.  of 

No.  of 

plants. 

.speci- 

mens. 

7S 

«4 

1 

76 

12  ' 

77 

2 

78 

12 

79 

13 

So 

I? 

81 

16 

Name. 


Cochlearia  ofticinali.s  ;  found  in  bloom  June  1 1, 

1S82. 

I'ound  liy  Klison  ;  variety  of  \o.  27 

Kound  l)y  Lieulenanl  (Jreely 

.lo._. 

I'ouiid  by  Elison 

.lo 

l'ossil)ly  No.  30,  in  whicli  c.i.se   No.  39  would 

bear  resemblance  to   N'o.  81.     Doth  found, 

1883,  by  Lieutenant  Greely. 


w       f'No.  of 
No.  of  I 

,,lant.s,  *l"^"- 


82 

83 
84 
85 
86 

87 
88 
89 
90 


14 

12 

IS 
12 


'4 


Name. 


Found  by  Lieutenant  (Ireely. 
do 


Very  cominnn;  fouml  by  Lieuten.int  Greely 

I'ound  by  Scrjjeant  Klison 

Kound  by  Lieutenant  Greely 


.Also  I  sheet,  21  bunches  mosjes. 


I.  Plants — Continued. 


No.  of  tag. 

0 

N 
() 
0 
0 
0 
N 
N 

I 

—  - 

N 

N 

L 

0  — 

X, 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks  showing  genus  and  species, 
collector  of  ran  specimens. 

name  of 

188 
189 
191 
192 
193 
194 

196 
197 
573 
198 
199 
200 
*576 

*585 
*587 
*2o6 
*io4 
*2os 
229 
748 

573 
849 

844 
864 
852 
845 

"879" 
884 
887 
888 

J'hin's  in  aliohol. 
Mushroom  order 

DitTercnt  kind  ;  many  specimens. 
Different  kiml ;  many  spccimeiis  ;  al 
Several  different  kinds. 

2  specimens,  one  kind. 
Many  specimens,  different  kind. 
One  kind. 
Many  specimens. 

In   bag  in   box   with   plants    from 
83°  24'  N. 

Sn\all  lree(?). 

Grasses,  saxifrage,  iVc. 

(irasscs,  saxifrage,  iVc,  in  box  206. 

Do. 
With  a  few  mosses ;  in  barrel  H. 
Chielly  water  plants. 

Small  paper  box. 

In  jars  with  alcohol. 
In  alcohol. 

....do 

so  fungi. 

..           -|     -         - 





4 

I 
I 

Mushroom  order. 

do 

do _.. 

Erica  _         

Mosses,  grasses,  saxi- 
frage, &c. 
Willow 



May,        1883 

1882 
May,        1883 
May,         1882 

do 

do 

do . 

Fossil  Mountain  . .. 

Discovery  Ihrbor.. 
Musk  ox  Valley  , .. 
Lockwood  Island,  _ 

....do.. 

Cape  Hritannia 

Vicinity  Ft.  Conger. 

latitude 

P 
P 
H 
0 
C) 

0 
0 
0 
W 

w 
w 
w 
0 
z 
/. 
I 

2 

Root  or  knot 

1  box  of  plants 

I  bag  of  plants 

do 

1  Ik)x  of  lichens 

Plants   . 

Mushrooms,  S:c 

Fort  Conger 

do        

Diseased  willow 



1883 

Mushroom,  &c 

do                 

1883 
1883 

Fort  Conger 



Moss  and  lichens 

Kungus  

Moss  and  fungus 

Moss  and  licliens 

Fungus  

June,        1883 

1883 
June  30, 1883 

Near  st.ition 

....do 

....do.. 

Miscellaneous  plants  . 
do 

Summer  1883 
do 

Near  station \ 

...  do / 

do 

* 

Not  in  alcoboL 

il 


m    ' 


lll:N|||::f 
J 


.^ 


ued. 
L'ontinued. 


ly- 

.ieutenant  (Ireely 

ly:::::::::::::; 


n<l  .species,  name  of 
sjiecimcns. 


cimens. 

cimeiis ;  also  fungi. 


kind. 


nts    from   latitude 


)ox  206. 
•el  H. 


J 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  RAY  EXPEDITION. 

Inchsure  to  Appendix  No,  91. — Inventory  of  collections  in  natural  history — Continued. 

II. — Birds. 


305 


0 

d 

'A 

503 

504 

505 

506 

44 

507 

508 

509 

SIO 
5" 

S'2 

5'3 
5'4 
5>S 
S16 

S'7 
518 

519 
S40 
538 

536 
539 
537 

522 

523 

526 

524 
527 
528 

529 
530 

533 
534 

707 

705 
700 

699 

698 
697 
712 
715 
71.5 
716 

711 

>< 

5 

K 
\\ 

B 
B 
B 
P 

K 

B 

B 
B 
P 

B 
B 
L 

K 
K 
K 
B 
« 
K 
■ 

B 
P 
K 

B 

I, 

B 

K 
B 
B 
P 
B 
1. 
JJ 

K 

K 
K 

K 

K 
K 
K 
K 
K 
I, 

L 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where 
found. 

Sex. 

Date  of— 

Remarks. 

Appearance. 

Dis- 

ip|>ear- 

ancc. 

Stuffed. 

Puffin 

Glaucous  gull 

Brent  goose  

...do... 

Snow  bunting 

Turnstone 

Guillemot. 

Knot 

July,        1881 
June    4,  1882 

June    2,  1882 
July.        1882 
May,        1882 
June    8, 1882 

July,        1881 

June,       1882 

do 

(jfcenland 

Mormon  Arcticus. 

I.arus  Glaucus,   reported   as 
seen  by  Sergeant  Cornell, 
Distant  Cape;  also,  l.urus 
Leutoptetus  at  same  time. 

Bernicla  Brenia 
Do. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard. 

Reported    st»'.i   by    Sergeant 
Brainard  a'.  Ca  le  Baird. 

Bruennich's  Guil  emot  (  i  'ria 
Bruennuhii,  Cape  Sabine). 

( X:ria  Crylle,  L.) 

By  Private  Biederbick. 
Do. 

By  Private  Schneider, 

By  Private  Long. 
By  Private  Connell. 

By  Private  Biederbick. 

By  Sergeant  Ralston. 
By  Private  Long. 

By  Dr.  Pavy. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 
Eskimo  F'rederik. 

Do. 
By  Sergi  int  Ralston. 

Do 
By  Private  Long. 

Do. 

Discovery 
1  larlxir. 

...do 

do 

June  5,  1883 
June    6, 1883 

Cape  Bryant 
Discovery 

Harbor. 
Near  1  .ittle- 

April  24,  1883 
June    2,  1883 

ton  Island. 
D  isc overy 

June    9, 1883 

Turnstone 

Harbor, 
do 

Knot. 

do  . 

....do  

Discovery 
Harbor, 
do 

June    8,1883 

.1., 

do 

King  duck 

do 

Ix)ngtaiiduck 

....do. 

...do.   

June  18,1882 

do 

June,       1882 

do 

....do  

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

....do 

...do  . 

Male.. 
Female 
..do... 
Male.. 

June  17,  1883 

June    6,1883 

..do... 



Glaucous  gull 

June  2 J,  1882 

.\ugust,   1882 

Near  F'ort 
Conger. 

Turnstone 

Knot 

King  duck 

Eider  duck 

Skua 

August,   1X82 

June  30, 1882 

July     2,  l8S2 

July  10,1882 

July     8,  1882 
July   10,  1882 
..-do  ... 

Near  Fort 

Conger. 
Disco  very 

Harbor. 
Dutch 

Island. 
Disc  overy 

Harbor, 
-.do..   .. 

Male.. 

..do 

June  26, 1S83 

Sabine  gull 

Eider  duck 

Skua     .       ... 

-..do 

...do  

Male.. 

Turnstone     .. 

..do  ...     . 

.do 

....do. 

Eider  duck . 

Glaucous  gull 

Knot 

July  20,  1882 
July  27,  1882 
.\ugust  I,  1882 

June    9,1883 

do  

...do 

do 



Lake  Alex- 
andra. 

Near  F'ort 
Conger. 

Distant 

Cape. 
Near  F'ort 

Conger. 

Male.. 

....do... 

Female 
..do... 

Dovekie 

Ptarmigan 

....do   

June    8,1883 

June  II,  1883 

June  12,1883 
do 

..do... 

Male.. 

l.ongtail  duck  ... 

Knot 

Turnstone 

Brent  goose  

.—do 

.do 

...do  

F"emalt 
Male.. 

..._.dv, 

June  13,  1883 
June  1,),  18H3 

....do  

Distant 

(  »|K-. 
...do 

Male.. 

Female 

H.  MiH.  303 20 


■  -  lima 


1 


iMj 


^ 


If 
(  • 


ri  ^ 


4     i 


1^1 


I 


;   1  ! 


i'. 


;  I 


"•■vlJlll^ 


306  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITION. 

Inclosure  to  Appendix  No.  91. — Inventory  of  collections  in  natural  history — Continued. 

II,   Birds — Continued. 


Sf 

Vm 

0 

M 

'^ 

;S 

704 

K 

703 

K 

7«4 

KorL 

706 

K 

702 

Korl. 

7'7 

K 

69s 

I. 

694 

I, 

693 

701 

1. 

709 

K 

710 

K 

693 

701 

1. 

709 

K 

710 

K 

693 

R 

729 

K 

721 

R 

733 

K 

726 

R 

730 

R 

73> 

R 

742 

R 

732 

R 

737 

R 

741 

R 

734 

R 

736 

R 

727 

R 

740 

R 

744 

R 

743 

R 

735 

U 

78s 

U 

790 

U 

792 

u 

77^ 

u 

780 

u 

779 

u 

7S2 

u 

781 

I' 

72S 

u 

78., 

u 

Name. 


^///^Cf/— Cont'd. 
Lon^lail  duck  ._ 

...do 

Dovekic 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Glaucous  gull 

...do  ._ 

King  duck  

Diver  duck 


Snow  l)unliiig._ 

...do 

King  duck  


Diver . 


Snow  bunting. 

...do 

King  duck  


...do 

Tern 

King  duck 

Plialaropc. 


King  duck 

Turnstone . 

Dovekie 


...do 

Owl 

King  duck . 


When  found. 


June  14,  l88j 

....do  

...do 

....do  

....do  

...  do  

June  15, 1883 

June  17,  1883 
...do  


-do  ... 


lunc  16,  1883 
.—  .do  ..  ... 
June  17,1883 

....do  


...ilo  . 
...do  . 


...do , 

...do , 

l.ongtail  duck  . 


I'tarmigan  . 
Kider  duck. 


Tern 

l.ongtail  duck  .. 

Tern 

...do. 

Longtail  duck  .. 

Tern 

Phalarope .  _ 

King  duck 

Tern 

King  duck 


June  16,  1883 

....do  

June  17,1883 

June  20,  1883 
June  19,  1883 
June  21,  1883 

June  26, 1883 

...do  

June  22,  1883 
June  24,  1883 

....do  

June  26,  1883 
June  25,  1883 

....do 

June  26,  1883 

....do  

....do 

....do  


.do 
.do 


June  29,  1883 
June  28,  1883 

June  29,  1883 
do 


June  26,  1883 

July     I,  1883 
July     2,1883 

....do  

July     1,1883 
....do  


Where 
found. 


Distant 
C-'ape. 

...do 

..do 


..do 

..do 


Near  Kort 

Conger. 
...do 


Distant 

Cape. 
Near   Cape 

I  .icber. 
Fort  Conger 

...do 

Distant 

(,'ape. 
Near    Cape 

lielier. 
Fort  Conger 

...do 

Distant 

Ca]ie. 

...do 

Near  station 
Cape    Mur- 

chison. 
Distant 

Cape. 

...do 

.Station 

Distant 

Cape. 
...do 


Station 

lireakwater 

I'oint. 

...do 

Distant 

Cape. 

..do 

...do 

Breakwater 

I'oint. 
Cairn  Hill.. 
I.)  i  s  t  a  n  t 

Cape. 

Station 

Distant 

Cape. 

Station 

...do 


Distant 
Cape. 

Station 

Cape  Haird. 
...do 


Station 

lireakwater 
I'oint. 


Sex. 


Male. 


Female 
..do. 


Male. 
Femal 
Male. 
Female 

..do. 


Date  of- 


Appearance. 


Dis 
appear- 
ance. 


Male. 


Male 


Femah 
Male.. 


Male. 

Female 

Male 


Female 
..do... 


Male.. 

Female 

M.ale.. 
..do  .. 
..do... 


..do.. 
Male  I 


F'emalc 
..do. 


Male. 
..do.. 
..do.. 


Female 
..do. 


.   ilo. 
M.ile 


.do. 
.do. 


l''emale 

..do.. 
._do... 


M.ile.. 
Female 
..do... 


June  17,  1883 


Remarks. 


Hy  Private  Long. 

Do. 
Do. 


By  Private  Biederbick. 

By  Private  Long. 
Do. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard. 

liy  Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 

By  Long. 

By  Brainard. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 

By  Long. 

Do. 
Wliisler. 
Biederbick. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 

Long. 

Bender. 

Long. 

Do. 
Found  dead  by  Cross. 
Biederbick. 

Do. 
Long. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 

Long. 

Biederbick. 

Cross. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 

Long. 
Brainard. 

Long. 

Do. 
Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 

Long. 
Brainard. 

Do. 
Long. 

Do. 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


307 


inueii. 


JndosiiiY  lo   If'peiulix  No.  <)\.— Inventory  of  collections  in  natural  history— ConXmue^, 

II.   UiRDs — Continued. 


Remarks. 


e  Long. 


e  Biederbick. 
e  Long. 

\i\<  Hi.iinard. 
Niaiit  Kislingbury. 

ir.1. 

It  Kislingbury. 


it  Kislingbury. 


»d  by  Cross. 


Kislingbury. 


Kislingbury. 


Kislingbury. 


o 


786 

787 
78.1 
831 

828 

799 
802 
806 

805 
807 
821 


125 
129 

122 

122 

187 
187 


Name. 


When  luund. 


I 


StuffiU—ConiW. 
Longlail  duck  . . . 


550 

770 
770 


770 
788 


796 1 

797/ 
798 
883 


IT 
U 
U 

U 
I 
I 
I 

I 
I 
0 


N 
N 

N 
N 
N 
N 
Tank. 


I  Tank. 
I  Tank. 
'  Tank. 

!  Tank. 

I 
lank. 

Tank. 
Tank. 

Tank. 
Tank. 


Tank. 
Can. 

Tank. 
Tank. 

Can. 

Can. 
(.) 


Wliire 
found. 


June  26,  1883 
1883 


Brentgoose j  J"ly     2, 

do ..I do 

Longlail  duck  ...[  July     3,1883 

do do 

Skua July     9,1883 

do ' do   

King  duck July     8,1883 


...do. 

I'tarmigan 
Knot 


/h  ahohol. 


Skua .    

Turnstones  (4) 


.   ..do 

(uly   14,1883 

j»iy 


Eider  (lucks  (2)..   July, 

Turnstone 

Duck 

Turnstone 

Ptarmigan  (2)  . 


August,   1882 
1882 


Small  birds  (4). 

Raven 

Dovekies  (2)  .. 

Knot 

Turnstones  (2). 

Turnstone  

Owl  


June,       1883 

....do 

June  22, 1883 

June  2^,  1883 
1882 


I'tarmigan !|  June  25,  1883 

Lnngtail  ducks  (2)'  June  26,  1883 


Sex. 


Distant; 

Cape. 

Station 

...do 

Distant  , 

Cape.        I 

St.ilion |,.  .. 

...do... ,  Male.. 

. .  .do .. I  Female 

Hreakvviiter  1  Male.. 

Toinl. 

Female 
Male.. 


Dali!  of— 


Appearance. 


Dis- 
appear 


...ilo  .. 
Station  . 
...do... 


Disco  very 

Harbor. 
...do 


Distant 

Cape. 
D  iscovery 

Harbor. 
Near  Fort 

Conger. 

...do 

...do 


.Snow  bunting  (3). 
King  duck 


June  28,  1883 
July     2,1883 

Longtail  ducks  (2)  June  25,  1883  j 
Snow  bunting  (3).'  June  28,  1883 

Skuas  (2) j  July     5,1883 

King  duck J"'y    9> '883 

j  Snow  bunting July  11,  1883 


.do., 
.do.. 


...do 

Breakwater 
Point. 


M  a  1  e  I 
and  fe- 
male. 


Male 
and  fe- 
male. 


Male. 
..do.. 


"I 


Fort  Conger  F'cmale 
...do 


..do. 
..do. 


Female 


Remarks. 


By  Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 


By  (lardiner. 
lly  \Vhi.skr. 
By  Long. 

By  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 

By  Saliir. 

By  Long. 

By  Biederbick. 

By  ICskimo  Frederik. 

By  Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 


Also  two  lemmings,  all  young. 


By    Lieutenant     Kislingbury 
(put  in  tank  June  26, 1883). 


By  Long. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


/. 


1.0 


I.I 


UilM  |25 
>ttlM  |22 
Z   1^    12.0 


IL25  i  1.4 


|L8 

iJ4 


HiotDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporalion 


\ 


s^ 


<> 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WiBSTM.N.Y.  UStO 

(716)172-4303 


#^    a\  ^r\\ 


il 


■■\     H 


f  ! 


808  THE  LADY  KBANKLIN  BAT  EXPEDITION. 

ImlosHre  to  Appendix  No,  91. — Inventory  0/ collections  in  natural  ^/j;/([;rv— Continued. 
III. — Insects  (including  spiders). 


No.  of 
lag. 

Box. 

No.  of 
speci- 
mens. 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

'55 
159 
«5i 
153 

330 

190 

568 
569 

S70 
571 
572 
233 

745 
746 

N 
N 
N 
N 
P 

5 

3 

Fly            

A  great  many. 
Do. 

One  box  containing  17  bumble-bees,  29  butter- 
flies, 10  millers,  8  spiders,  19  flies,  and  7 
dragon  flies. 

Four  cocoons,  caterpillars  (a  great  many),  and 
a  half  dozen  very  small  insects. 

Two  minute  red  insects  and  1  yellow. 

Lepidoptera,  &c. ;  tmall  paper  parcel,  several 
boxes  within  containing  1 1  caterpillars,  &c., 
5  cocoons,  and  a  bee  and  several  insects. 

Small  pasteboard  box  containing  i)umerous 
vials. 

A  number  in  a  tin  box. 

Butterflies,  dragon  flies,  bumble-bees,  &c.  (in 
box  8$  I  with  eggs). 

(Like  a  spider.) 

Caterpillars  ... 

Insects 

June,  1883 
June,     1883 

Discovery  Harbor. . 

Parasites  of  ptarmigan 
Insects 

0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
P 

N 

0 

I 
I 
3 

3 

5 

Ant  „  ..w... 

Discovery  Harbor. . 
do 

Worm 

....do 

Caterpillar.. 

Ants 

Insects 

. do 

....do 

....do 

Caterpillars 

Cocoons.. 

Miscellaneous 

883 

0' 
0 

I 
I 
5 

Crustacea 

Humble-bees 

Dragon  flies 

July  23, 1883 
July  14, 1883 
do 

Dutch  Island 

Station 

....do 

IV. — Mammalia. 


No.  of 
tag. 

Box. 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Sex. 

Remarks. 

53« 
53» 
Sai 

535 
III 

113 

126 

187 

"878 

B 
B 
B 

B 

N 

N 
N 
N 

h 

Stuffed  speciineni. 
Ermine 

July  33, 1883 
July  26, 1882 
May    7,1882 

Discovery  Harbor    

By  Private  Henry. 

By  Sergeant  Jewell. 

By  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 

Two  specimens. 

By  Lieutenant  Lockwood;  specimens. 

Foetus,  3  young  hares  and  1  fish. 
One  specimen. 

Also  duck  and  1  unknown  bird. 
By  .Sergeant  Connell  and  Jens. 
Lieutenant  (ireely. 

....do 

Hare 

do 

Cape  Ben^t,  north  coast 
of  Greenland. 

Male  .. 

....do 

/m  alcohol. 

Lemming 

do 

Two  hares 

Aug.  — ,  1882 
May    9,1883 

DiKovery  Harbor 

Taylor  Inlet,  north  coast 

of  Greenland. 
Discovery  Harbor    

Lemming        

Two  lemmings 

One  seal 

June  20, 1883 
July  15,1883 

Discovery  Harbor 

Lemming 

Station 

V. 

—Fishes. 

No.  of 
tag. 

Box. 

No.  of 
speci- 
mens. 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

'il 

201 

88 

126 

N 
N 
I 
N 
N 
N 

Unknown  fish 

....do 

Salmon  trout 

Apr.,       1882 
July,        1882 
Aug.  22, 1883 
Aug.,       1883 

Cape  Joseph  Henry 

Discovery  Harbor 

Cape  Alexandra 

Discovery  Harbor  .1... 

By  Sergeant  Rice. 

Caught  in  net. 

In  box  with  fictal  hares. 

Very  small. 

Very  small;  in  milkcan  with  Crustacea. 

Skeletons 

^-L 


THE  LADY  FEAKKLlN  BAT  EXPEDITION. 


308 


ttutosure  to  Appendix  No.  91 — fttvenlory  oftoUecHons  in  natural  history — Continued. 

VI». — MOLLUSCA,  &c. 


No.  of 
tag. 

Box. 

No.  of 
speci- 
mens. 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

62 

65 

63 

109 

los 

•75 
86 
307 
209 
211 
863 

fs' 

859 

"& 
867 

N 
N 

N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Z 

10 

7 
I 

Mollusca.... 

Aug.,  1882 
July,  1882 
Aug.,  1882 
July,        1882 

do 

-—do 

.—do 

July,  1881 
July,        1882 

Discovery  Harbor  . 

do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

Upemivik 

Discovery  Harbor  . 

Brachiopoda. 

Shelb. 

Gasteropoda. 

Two  kinds. 

One  soft,  also  I  annelida  and  I  star-fish. 

Nucula  postlandica,  in  shells. 

Soft. 

Also  Crustacea,  &c. 

Annelida,  &c. 

Caught  near  house,  July  27,  in  dredge. 

...do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

.—do 

..-do 

....do 

.--.do 

.-..do 



Shells 

June,       1883 

do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

..-.do 

.—do 

Soft  mollusk 

Soft  mollusk,  Crustacea, 
annelida,  starfish,  &c. 

VP. — Crustacea. 


No.  of 
tag. 

Box. 

No.  of 
speci- 
mens. 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

79 
94 
90 

'39 

83 

SO 

93 
102 

96 

91 

8S 
144 

81 
208 
212 

226  i 
8SS 

N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 

"n" 

N 
N 
N 
N 
N 

n' 

N 
N 

N 
P 

0 

I 

4 
I 

I 
14 

July. 

do  . 

....do. 
....do. 
do  . 

1882 

Discovery  Harbor.. 

. do 

....do 

-..do 

....do 

And  shells  from  a  seal's  stomach. 
Two  kinds. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard  (in  box). 
Fragments. 

(  Fragment  of  a  large  one,  and  3 
complete    (dry)    in    milk  can 
i     skeleton. 

Shrimps  caught  in  tide  hole. 
Henry— Nymphon  grossipes  (?). 

small  ones 
with    fish 

. , .  .-.    - 

May, 
June, 
April, 
June, 

July. 

do. 

1882 
1882 
1882 
1882 
1882 

Discovery  Harbor.. 
do 

4 

I 
2 

% 

4 
1 

3 
5 

I 
10 

I 

3 

4 

Many 

I 

do 

do 

do. 

May, 
..-.do. 
April, 

1882 
'r88V 

....do 

„..do 

....do 

1882 
1882 

St.  Patrick  Bay 

Discovery  Harbor.. 

July. 

June, 
July  23 

1883 
.■883 

Dutch  Island 

;i 


:| 


1 

1 

310                                THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Inclosure  to  Appendix  No.  91. — Inventory  of  collections  in  natural  history — Continued. 

VI«. — Annelida. 

■ 

No.  of 
tag. 

Box. 

No.  of 
speci- 
mens. 

Nane. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

1 

80 

7a 
70 

75 
7« 
67 
69 
74 
64 
82 

no 
78 
84 
87 
95 
29 

207 

"59 
214 
767 
86s 
869 

N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 

'n' 

N 
N 
0 
0 

3 

1 
I 
2 
1 
2 
I 
1 
I 
I 

3 
I 

I 
2 
I 

3 
I 

3 

13 

Many 

1 

July,        1882 
June,       1882 
do 

Discovery  Harbor., 
do  .  . 

By  Lieutenant  Kislingbury. 
In  bottle  with  4  mollusks,  &c. 

Annelidae,  soft  mollusks,  &c. 
Front  of  house,  in  dredges. 

H 

S 

do 

n 

do 

do 

M 

July,        1882 
do 

do 

fl 

do 

» 

....do  

do 

' 

August,  1882 
do 

...  do  

.     do  ..  .         

....do 

July,       1882 
do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

....do  

...  do  

Feb.,       1882 
July,        1882 

..  do 

....do  

' 

June,       1883 
do  .    . 

Annelida,  medusa 

....do  

July  24,  1883 

VId 

— Medusa. 

No.  of 
tag. 

Box. 

No.  of 
S|)eci- 
mens. 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

73 
66 
68 

98 
142 
156 
173 
>54 

'I^ 
210 
213 

219 

858 
866 

N 
N 
N 
N 

N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
0 
0 

I 
2 
I 
3 

4 
S 

April,      1882 
June,       1882 
May,       1882 
June,       1882 
July,        1881 
Feb.,       1882 
April,      1882 
August,   1882 
Jan.,        1883 
May,       1883 

Discovery  Harbor.. 
..  do 

I  specimen  by  Schneider  from  Cape  Beechey. 

.     do. 

.-..do 

Upernivik 

Discovery  Harbor., 
do 

Ella  Bay 

I 

3 

2 
I 

I 

Fort  Conger 

....do 

.  1883 

VI*.— Star-fish,  &c. 


No.  of 
tag. 

1.3 

'57 
«53 
207 
8s6 

"5 
118 
ISO 
843 

Box. 

No.  of 
speci- 
mens. 

Name. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

N 
N 
N 
N 
0 
N 
N 
N 
0 

3 
3 

2 
I 
I 

Asteroidea ..  .. 

August,  1882 
--     do 

Carl  Ritter  Hay 

do      

2  kinds, 

In  bottles  with  mollusks  and  annelida. 

....do  

.....do 

July,        1882 

Discovery  Harbor.. 

Asteroidea 

June,       1883 
July,        1 88 1 
Sept.,      1 88 1 
July.        1882 
June  and  July 

Discovery  Harbor.. 

Littleton  Lsland 

Discovery  Harbor.. 
do 

Soundings _. 

do  . 

4 

Dredging  specimen  .. 
.Sea  porcupine 

....do 

(THE  LAIJY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


311 


Inclosure  to  Appendix  No.  91. — Invontory  of  collections  in  natural  Ais/ory—Continvied. 

VII.— ESKLMO    REMAINS. 


No.  of 
tag. 

•3* 

6521 

653/ 
656) 
657  [ 

588 

591 
596 1 
597/ 
595 
47  \ 
"79  J 
178 

5981 
604/ 

599 

166 

6001 

608/ 

607 

611 
170 

16S 
612 
605 

601 
602 

606 

615 
610 
617 
618 
619 

620 

621 
622 
623 

624 
62s 

492 

216 

164 

182 

162' 

593 

Kox. 

H 

II 
II 

H 

H 
A 

No.  of 
.speci- 
mens. 

2 
3 

2 

Designation. 

When  found. 

1882 
1881 

1881 
1882 

1882 
August,    1882 

....do 

....do 

....do 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

Shells  and  bones. 

Jaw  bones  (Max) 

Skulls  of  Eskimo* 

Pointed  bone 

Bellows 

By  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 
By  Private  Henry. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard ;  round,  and  evi- 
dently some  implement;  about  12 
inches  [305"""^  long. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard;  a  score  of  frag- 
ments; lichens,  covereel ;  mostly  bone ; 
"  worked ; "  found  on  "  raised  beach," 
alxjut  20  feet  [6""]  altitude. 

By  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 

■  Forming  one  old  Eskimo  sledge,  com- 
plete; made  of  wood;  found  at  Cape 
Baird,  August,   1882,  by   Sergeants 
Brainard  and  Israel;  pliotogr.'i|)h  and 
descriptive  data   in    lands  of  com- 
manding ofticer. 

Bowl  of  stone;  found  by  Sergeant  Brain- 
ard. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard;  from  narwhal 
horn. 

Oak. 

Found  floating  in  the  straits  8  or  to  feet 
[about  2  or  3"']  from  shore;  found  by 
Sergeant  Brainard; 

Bone;  by  Sergeant  Connell. 
Do. 

Eskimo  lamp,  birch  back  and  worked 
wood ;  by  Serge.mt  Connell. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard. 

Found  about  200  feet  [61'"]  above  sea. 

Bone. 

Bone;  found  by  Dr.  Pavy. 

In   valley   southwest    end   of    lake   by 
Lieutenant  Cireely. 

;  2  Iwne  combs,  fragment  of  bone 

and  wood;    found  at  intersection  of 
Lake  Hazen  and  Ruggles  River. 
Do. 
Do. 

By  Private  Biederbick;  found  at  inter- 
section of  Lake  Hazen  and  Ruggles 
River. 

By  Private  Whisler;  found  at  intersec- 
tion of  1  .nke  Hazen  and  Ruggles  River. 

By  Lieutenant  (Ireely;   foum    at  inter 
section  of  Lake  Hazen  and  Ruggles 
River. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard. 

1  By  Lieutenant  (Ireely;  bone;  4  pieces; 
\     runners  complete. 

1  By  Lieutenant  Greely;  bone;  a  pieces; 
y     runners  complete. 

Littleton  Island 

Xear  Kittenbank.. 
Littleton  Island  .. 

Unknown 

»fear  Fort  Conger.. 

Basil  Norris  Bay... 
Chandler  Fiord 

Cape  Baird 

i 

do 

Kone  ami  wood  (great 
many  .specimens). 

Spear  head  and  bone... 

Sledge  runners "| 

Part  of  sledge ... 

Upstanders 

Slat 

Part  of  sledge 

Forming  one  slat 

Lower  i>art  of  179  ... 
Part 

A 

A 

A 
A 

A 

A 

A 
A 

A 
A 
A 

A 
A 

I 

1 

1 

Fragments 

Oxjking  lamp 

Stick  of  bone 

Spear 

....do 

Cai)e  Baird 

Piece  of  woml 

Duplicate  of  6ii_. 

Top  of  powder-llask... 

Dog  "toggle" 

1882 
1882 
1882 

1882 
1882 
1882 

1882 
1882 
1882 
1882 
1882 
June,        1882 

....do 

....do 

....do 

-...do 

....do 

....do 

....do     

Cayte  Beechey 

Proteus  Point 

do 

Knife  iiundle 

Fragments.   .         ..     . 

do 

Near  Fort  Conger.. 

Distant  Cape 

Near  station  .., 

....do 

....do 

Lake  Hazen 

.-..do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

Sun  Bay . . 

A 
A 
A 
A 
A 
A 

A 

A 
A 
A 

A 
A 

A 
A 

A 

do 

Fragments  of  sledge 

Part  of  sledge  runner. . . 
Fragments 

Plate 

Reindeer  hair 

Fragments... 

Piece  of  bone  lance 

Knife,  &c 

Fragments  of  l)one 

do 

Comb,  dog  toggle,  &c. . . 

Piece  of  wood . . 

Pieces  of  sledge  runner 
do 

....do 

...  do 

I^ke  Hazen 

....do 

*  Descriptive  lags  on  each. 


! 


i 


rt 


P 


! 


312  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Inclosurt  to  Appetutix  No.  91. — Invntory  of  collections  in  natural  history — Conlinued. 
VII. — Eskimo  remains — Continued. 


No.  of 
tag, 


161  > 
168 

616 1 

92/ 

37 
169 

59* 

227-1 

228/ 

184I 

394/ 

176 

181 

6«3 
626 

614 
627 

628 
629 

633 
221 
491 

53 
494 

58 
493 
494 
661 

554 


771) 
to  [ 

777  J 


Box 


No.  of 
spcci 


Designation. 


Pieces  of  sledge  runner 
Upstanders ... 


Bone  upstanden 

Whalebone  sledge  slat 
do 

Whalebone  sledge  runner 

do 


Whalebone  spear 

Bone  sledge  slat 

Part  of  same 

Part  of  upstander 

Fragments  of  bone  and 

wood. 

Parts  of  deer  horn 

Fragments  of  bone  and 

wood. 

Fragments 

do. 


When  found. 


June, 
....do. 


1882 


.do. 


-do. 
.do. 
-do. 


.do. 


-do. 


Old  skull 

Piece  of  sledge  runner. 

Fragments 

do 


Piece  of  reindeer  horn.. 

Piece  of  wood 

Wood 

Reindeer  horn 

Lignite    and    petrified 

wood. 
Fragments 


r  Eskimo  sledge,  wood;  -I 
I     very  old.  / 


-do. 


-do.... 

.do.... 

1882 


June,       1882 

1882 
1882 
1882 
1882 
1882 

K882 

1882 
1882 
1882 
1882 
1882. 

1882 


June  26, 1883 


Where  found. 


Cape  Baird  .. 
Lake  Hazen  . 


.'lo. 
-do. 


.do. 
.do. 


.do. 


-do. 


-do. 
.do. 


Sun  Bay. 


Archer  Fiord. 

.-.-do 

Lake  Hazen  - 
Near  station 
Archer  Fiord. 
Bellows 


Lake  Heintzelman. 

...-do.... 

...do 

Junction  of  Lake 
Hazen  and  Rug- 
gles  River. 


Distant  Cape. 


Remarks. 


{Forming  with  593  and  30  two  runners 
rompTete. 
Wood;  intersection  of  Lake  Hazen  and 

Ruggles  River. 

/  Intersection  of  Lake  Hazen  and  Ruggles 

\     River. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

{Intersection  of  Lake  Hazen  and  Ruggles 
River;  pieces  at  same  place;  large 
pine  runners  were  found. 
{Intersection  of  Lake  Hazen  and  Ruggles 
River. 
Do. 
Do. 
Woo<l. 
Wooden  spoon,  pieces  of  sledge,  &c. 


Mostly  unworked. 


Bone  and  wood. 

By  Sergeant  Lynn. 

Musk-ox  or  seal. 

About  I  j^  feet  [.45""]  long. 


Wood ;  from  elevation  of  about  700  feet 

[213"]. 
Bone,  wood,  stone,  and  teeth;    found 

near  Eskimo  huts. 

By  Private  Ellis;  772,  774,  runners; 
77'.  773.  775.  wooden  slats;  776 
and  777,  bone  upstanders.  Found 
about  40  feet  [12'"]  above  water- 
level.  Runners,  x}^"  by  6^"  by 
4'  and  4'  7"  [44'"™  by  140'"™  by 
1.2'"  by  1.4"']. 


Ill  i 

y 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


313 


Tuchiure  to  Appendix  No.  91. — Inventory  of  collections  in  natural  history — Continued. 

VIII. — Dkikt-wood. 


No.  of 
tag. 


No.  of 

^Box.  sjjeci- 

mens. 


671 


I 


33 

57 

«97 

198 

I 


3 

4 

6 
670 

680 
674 
676 
688 
687 

683 
690 

677 
691 
672 

673 
669 

678 
685 
692 

718 

719 
720 

681 

5 

8 

9 
682 
684 
689 

67s 

-  679 

10 

757 
754 
5«7 
585 
495 


Designation. 


Large  log 


Drift-wood  .. 
Pieces  of  log. 


When  found. 


August,    1882 


Pieces 


.do. 
.do. 


April,      1882 

1882 
1882 
1882 


Where  found. 


Ella  Bay  . 


f  Discovery  Harbor. 
(.St.  Patrick  Hay... 

Near  Repulse  Har- 
l)or. 

llellows .. 

....do 

....do 

....do... 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


St.  Patrick  Bay.. 

Bellows 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 


Small  piece . 


Sample 


.do. 
-do. 


..do. 


Small  piece . 

Root 

do.... 


Branch 

Few  small  pieces  , 


1881 


1881-1882 


-do. 
.do. 
.do. 


.do. 
.do. 


...do 

Bellows  . 

Near  Ft.  Conger.., 


June  20, 1883 
June  lo, 1883 


Sept.,       1881 


Remarks. 


7/  10"  by  10"  [239"'  by  254™"'].  Trunk 
of  tree;  pine. 

>  Samples, 

Descriptive  data  of  log  given  command- 
ing officer. 


2'  9"  by  6'  [838"""  by   lS2n'm]  root, 

cedar,  length  and  diameter. 
2'  3>/2"   by  — »  [egS-"   by  — *]  root, 

cedar. 
2'  1 1"  by  4"  by  2"  [889'"">  by  102"'™ 

by  51"""]  piece  of  branch,  pine. 
2'  3"  by  S"  [686"™  by  127"""]  branch, 

pine. 
I'  7"  by  i^"  [483"""  by  38"'"']  pine. 
About  30  inches  [762"""]  sawed  off  the 

large  tree;  diameter,  8|^"  [216"'"'] 

pine. 


Sun  Bay 

Littleton  Island  ... 

Basil  Norris  Bay... 

..  .do 

....do... 

....do 

Bellows 

....do 


{Probably  Basil   f 
Norris  Bay.     1 


Proteus  Point 
Near  station  . 


i'9"l'y-»[533" 


">  by  — *]  knot  with 
1  by  102"""]  branch, 
'  by  102"""]  branch. 


moss  on  it,  pine. 
2'  9"  by  4''  [838'" 

cedar. 
2' 4" by  4'' [7 II'" 

cedar. 
Branch  3^'by  7  j4"  [  1067"""  by  190"""'] 

pine. 
3/4'  by  7"  [1067"'"'  by  178'""']  sample 

of  log,  pine. 
2'  5"  by  4^"  [737"'"'  by  1 14"""]  pine. 
2' S'A"  by  4"  [749"'™  by  102"'"']  root, 

pine. 
2'  SVi"  by  6"  [749™"'  by  152'"'"]  knot, 

cedar. 
2'  1 1"  by  \yi"  [889""''  by  38"""]  pine. 
4'  9"  by  yyi"  [1448"""  by  82'""']  pine. 
'•°B  5/^'  '>y  6"  [1980"""  by  152""'] 

])ine. 
•-°6  5 /^ '  l^y  6"  [  1 980"'"' by  1 5 2"'"']  pine. 
2'  ^Yt"  by  — *  [749"""  by  — *]  knot, 

cedar. 

I'  5"  by  2yi"  [432"'"'  by  64"'"!]  pine. 

I'  \"  by  lyi"  [330"""'  by  38"""]  pine. 

East  shore    Discovery   IlarlHir,  several 

hundred  feet  above  sea ;  perhaps  left 

by    the    English.      2'  4X"   by  3" 

[yiyiniii  by  76"'"']  pine. 

Sawed  off  670  disc,  3"  by  9"  [76"'n>  by 

229"'"'].  , 

I'  by  y  [305"'"'  by  76"""]  cedar. 
«'  3k"  by  i{"  [393""'"  by  19"""]  piece 

of  pine  molding. 
2'  7"  by4"  [787"""  by  102"""]  root,i)ine. 
1%'  by  2"  [457"""  by  51"'"']  pine. 
It"  by  2"  [279"""  by  51'""']  pine  or  cedar. 
II''  by  y/j"  [279"'"'  by  89'""']  pine. 
18"  by  3"  [457"'"'  by  76'""']  pine. 

wYz"  by  2"  [282"""  by  51 ']  pine. 

3|^'  by  n"  [1067"""  by  102"'"']  pine. 
2>i'  hy  2yi''  [762"'"'  by  64'"'"]  pine. 
2^'  by  3"  [762"'"'  by  76"""]  pine. 
2'  8X"  by  ~*  [819"""  by  — •]  cedar 

knot. 
Sergeant  Brainard. 
Lieutenant  Greely.     Piece  of  willow. 
Do.  Do. 

Do.  Do. 


•  Ominloo  In  original— A.  W.  G. 


I 


•1 


i; 


314 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Incloiure  to  Appendix  No,  91. — Inventory  0/ collections  in  natural  history — Continued. 
IX. — Rocks,  shklls,  fossils,  and  pktrikactions. 


No.  of 

lag. 

Box. 

Xo.of 
speci- 
mens. 

Designation. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

45 
106 
108 
107 
100 
101 
'30 
'3« 
'34 
■33 
«32 

140 
•45 

146 
141 
«43 

43 

202 

Kog. 

Keg. 

203 

204 

574 

575 
577 

578 

581 

582 

583 

589 
590 
630 

f'31 
632 

643 

646 1 

467 

648 

650  J 

Keg. 

666 

549 
663 

36 
552 
S5> 
49' 
667 

53 
66s 
658 
755 

756 
760 

'847" 

A 
A 
A 

A 
A 
A 

A 
A 
A 

A 
A 

A 
A 
A 
E 
K 
I) 
C 
E 
E 
A 

E 
E 

E 

E 
E 
E 

A 
A 
A 
A 
A 
A 

E 

F 
11 

11 
II 
II 
II 
II 
II 
H 
II 
II 
11 
I' 

I- 
1- 
W 
W 

I 

Fossils 

1882 

Feilden  Peninsula.. 
I3elluws    .....  ... 

2  kinds. 

A  few  lichens  on  some  of  the  rocks. 

And  rosin. 

By  .Sergeant  Brainard. 
I  bag. 

Several  kinds. 

Of  tree  and  fish;    altitude,  2,2(to  feet 
[67o>"]. 

Sergeant  Braina^d;  altitude,  alwut  800 
feet  [244'"]. 

Sergeants  Brainard  and  Gardiner;  alti- 
tude, 0. 
Do. 

.Sergeant  Brainard,  800  feet  [244"']. 

.Sergeants  Brainard  and  Ciardiner,  repre- 
resenting  all  the  kinds  in  581. 

By  Sergeant  Rice. 
Lieutenant  (Ireely  and  [rarty. 
Private  Frederick. 

In  3  small  lots,  one  with  a  piece  of  rosin 
by  Private  Frederick. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard. 

One  keg  full. 

Sergeant  Connell ;  found  "  all  along  the 

valley." 
C:asteroi)od. 

Coal,  bones,  wood,  shells,  and  rocks. 

By  Sergeant  Brainard. 

Christiansen. 
By  Private  Frederick. 
Small  box  nearly  full  of  coal. 
Sergeant  Brainard  ;  altitude,  800  to  1,000 
feet  [244'n  to  305'"]. 

Rocki 

do 

do 

do 

....do 

Shells 

1882 
1883 
1882 
1882 
1882 
1882 

...do 

....do 

Ulackkock  Vale.. 
do 

Hcllows 

....do 

.     .do 

Kocks  and  2  shells 

Rocks 

do 

Shells 

kocks 

do 

Kocks  and  fossils 

Cape  Delano,   I 

View  Point, 

Feilden  Penin- 

[            sula.            J 

Dellows      

do 

Rocks  and  shells 

do 

Shells 

Apr.,        1882 
do 

Lincoln  Hay 

do 

Rocks 

May,        1882 
....do 

Cape  I<rit.innia 

Lockwood  Island.. 

Coal  mine 

Discovery  I  larbor. . 

Lincoln  Bay 

Discovery  Harl)or.. 
Fo.ssil  Mountain 

do 

Near  Cape  IJaird  .. 

Cape  Cracroft 

....do 

("ape  Haird 

Cape  Cracroft 

View  Point 

Fort  Conger  Creek. 
Uellows. 

.do..               .  .. 

Coal 

Petrified  tree 

1882 
Apr.,        1882 

Rocks 

do 

Fossils 

do 

Fossils  and  petrilied  wood 

Fossils 

May,        1883 

....do 

June,        1883 

...do 

do 

I'etrilied  wood 

Fossils 

....do 

....do 

do 

do 

1882 

1882 
June,        1882 
Aug.,        1882 

1882 

2 

Rocks 

Lignite 

Fo.ssils 

Caiie  Cracroft 

Hellows .     

Lignite,  &c 

Shells 

Fossils  and  petrifactions. 

Rock  crj'sfals 

IJgnite,  shells, and  rosin. 

Shells 

June,        1883 

1882 
June,        1883 

1881 

Cape  Haird 

Vicinity  Ft.  Conger. 
Bellows.       

Upernivik 

Lake  Iia/.en 

Bellows        

Hlack  stone 

Fragments 

Lignite . 

do.... 

Stone  and  rock 

Lake  lla/.en 

....do 

Hone 

Rocks 

Lincoln  Bay 

Bellows 

Coal  mine 

do 

Pieces  of  coal  and  a  bone. 
Fossils . 

do 

Shells 

June  14, 1883 

June  20, 1883 

do 

|une,        1882 
July.         1883 

East  shore  Discov- 
ery Harbor. 
Bellows . 

Coal 

Lignite 

Coal  fossils 

....do 

Coal  mine    

Cape  Baird 

Fossils 

k. 


TUE  LADY  PKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


315 


Incloture  to  Appendix  No.  91. — Inventory  of  colUctions  in  natural  history — Continued. 
IX. — Rocks,  shells,  fossils,  and  i'etri factions — Continued. 


No-fBox. 
tag. 

Designation. 

When  found. 

Where  found. 

Remarks. 

860  ' 
870 

W 
W 
VV 

w 
w 
w 

....  Slate.. 

July.         1883 

do... 

....do 

Station 

Sergeant  Brainard;  1,000  feci  [305™] 
alH>ve  tiile  water;  showing  scratcjies, 
as  of  glacial  action. 

Gathered  at  various  times. 

Piecesofrock 

Stone 

Cairn  Hill 

Mount  Cartmel 

Cairn  Hill 

....do 

....do 

Station 

Piece  of  rock 

June,  1883 
ilo 

July    24,  1883 

June,July,l883 

....do 

do 

....  .Shells 

X. — Horns,  bonf-s,  ani»  skeletons. 


No,  of 
tag. 


659 
660 

655 
224 
225 
654 
662 
64 
651 

724 

739 

722 1 
723/ 


Box. 


H 
Y 

T 

T 
AA 


725    !  T 

79S 

833 

837 

836 

83s 
834 

839 


No,  of 
speci- 


15 
I 


Name, 


Skull  of  seal 

Skull  of  musk-ox 

Skull  of  walrus 

Deer  antlers 

Musk-ox  jaw  Iwne 

Walrus  lower  jaw 

Seal  and  walrus  Imnes. 
Piece  of  reindeer  horn. 
Hone  of  large  mammal 

Musk-ox  (hind  legs)  .. 

Foxes 

Polar  hear 

Wolf 


Mvisk-ox  head 

Bird 

Owls 

Lower  jaw  of  musk-ox 
Reindeer  antlers 

do ._ 

do 

do 

do 

do 


When  found. 


1881 
1882 
18S1 
1KS2 
1S82 
1881 
1881 
1882 
August,   I 


882 


1882 


1881 

1882 


1882 
July  20,  1883 
July  20,  1883 


1882 
June  20, 1883 
July  21,1883 


Where  found. 


Littleton  I.sland 

Cape  Uaird 

Littleton  Island 

Discovery  Harlwr. 


Remarks. 


Littleton  Islan<l 

Cairn  Hill 

KllaBay. 


Uy  .Scrgt.  lirainard. 

I  specimen  from  lake  Hazen, 


Lf.  Lockwood,  Probably  whale ;  found  on 
west  shore.     Head  of  Archer  Fiord. 


Baffin  Bay 1  '     1    1  .  „. 

Vicinity  house...  [    ^'^'^''^to"* 


Mt.  Cartmel. 
....do  


St.  I'atrick  Bay  .. 
Watercourse  Bay 
Mt.  Cartmel 


Connell. 
Rice. 

Brainard. 

Biederbick ;  alraut  ^  miles  north  of  coal 

mhie. 
Jens. 


XL — Hides  and  skins. 


No.  of 
tag. 

Box. 

No.  of 
speci- 
mens. 

Name. 

Remarks. 

3 

2 
2 

2 

5 

I 
I 
I 

Musk-ox 

Being  prepared. 

Small  and  large;  collected  at  Distant  Cape  and  Discovery  Harbor  June  and 
August,  1882. 

Three  of  them  in  good  order  and  condition. 

Tank 

Fox 

Seal 

Ermine 

Hare  skins 

769 
793 
791 
794 

"i" 

s 
s 

Seal  hide 

Musk-ox  (bull) 

Musk-ox  (calf) 

f'J 


316 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIX  BAY  EXI'EDITION. 


Inclosure  to  Appendix  No.  91, — Invtntory  of  coUecliom  in  natural  history — Continued. 

XII. — Miscellaneous. 


Box 


8S1 


766 


o 


Nc).  of 
speci- 
nieni. 


Name. 


.  . 


EggSy  &' 

Skua ... 

Ilrent  (;oose 

Turnstone 

Brent  goose 

Skua  . 

Turnstone  . 

Eider  duck 

Longtail  duck  . . 

Unknown 

Skua 

Unknown 

Ptarmigan 

Turnstones 

Brent  goose..., 

Turnstones 

do 


Snow  buntinc . 
do...... 


.do. 


.do. 
-do. 
.do. 


do 

Nest 

Red  snow . .. 

Entozoa  of  seal 

Cryptogamia; 

AlgK 

Cryptogami* . 

Unknown 

I'cnisof  white  fox 

{Ptarmigan  head 
Ermine  head  and  tail. 
Ptarmigan  head 

Eggs  of  dovekie 

Eggs  of  knot 


When  found. 


Aug.,       1883 
July   25,1883 


June  II,  1883 
June  25, 1883 
June  19, 1883 
do 


iune  34, 1883 
une  32, 1883 
une  24, 1883 
une  20, 1883 
June  28,1883 
do 


...do 

iune  17, 1883 
une  20, 1883 
Tune  38,1883 
July,  1881 
do.. 


1882 


July. 

....do 

....do 

Aug.,       1882 


June     8,  1883 
June  10, 1883 


Gizzard  of  knot 

Egg  of  knot 

Eggs  of  ptarmigan 

Kggs  of  turnstone 

Testicles  of  knot 

Wool  of  Brent  goose 

Nest  of  lemming 

Fcetal  eggs  (unknown)  . 

(iizzard  of  king  duck 

Ki  etal  eggs  of  tern 

Fittaleggsof  snow  bunting 

Firtal  eggs  of  king  duck 

Kcttal  eggs  of  diver 

Ftctal  eggs  of  glaucous  gull. 

Plant,  &c 

Fcetal  eggs  of  Brentgoose. 
Gizzard,  iVc 


Foetal  eggs  of  Brent  goose. 
Ftetal  eggs  of  ptarmigan 
Shells 

English  record  cases 


Miscellaneous  articles  . 


...do 

...do 

..  do 

...do 

...do 

1882 

1882 

1883 
June,   1883 

...do 

June  12, 1883 
June  20, 1883 
June  17, 1883 
do 


Where  found. 


Discovery  Harbor 
..  ..do........ 


Near  Fort  Conger 

...do 

...do 

....do 


....do 

...do 

...do 

North  Valley 

Station .. 

...do 


....do 

....do. 

....do 

do 

Carey  Island 

Melville  Bay 

Cairn  Hill 

Discovery  Harbor 
North  Valley... 
Carl  Ritter  Bay. 


Discovery  Harbor 
...do 

...do 


.do. 
.do. 


June   14, 
June, 


1883 
1883 


June  14, 1883 
June  II,  1883 
June  22, 1883 


Water-course  Bay 


Near  station 


Cape  Baird . 


Vicinity  of  station 
...do.. 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 


.do. 


Remarks. 


In  alcohol. 
Do. 
Specimen  added  to  136. 
In  alcohol. 

24  eggs  in  a  box. 


In  alcohol. 

Snow  bunting  ?  Specimens  broken. 


With  nest. 

With  nest. 

Do. 
In  alcohol  with  chicks  inside. 

Do. 

Do. 


Snow  bunting. 


Three  kinds. 


Female.  I 

i-  In  alcohol. 
Male.     J 
(Fcetal  eggs.) 
(Fcetal  eggs)  and  gizzard  with  contents ; 

female. 
And  testicles ;  male. 
Broken  by  shot,  found  inside  the  bird. 
Taken  from  the  bird. 
Do. 

Found  with  4  eggs. 


In  alcohol ;  female. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
In  alcohol. 

Do. 
In  alcohol ;  gizzard  and  contents  (shrimps, 

&c.) ;  female  ;  longtail  duck. 
In  alcohol. 

Do. 
Found  in  gizzard  of  male  king  duck. 
Coppinger's  [from  Boat  Camp]:  Archer's 
(from  head  of  fiord),  and  I  unknown. 
A  few  small  shells,  fossils,  pieces  of  drift- 
wood, dog  toggle  (586),  &c. ;  each  ar- 
ticle labeled. 


THK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


317 


Incloiure  to  Appfndix  No.  91. — Inventory  tif  coltfctions  in  natural  history — Continued. 
Xn. — MiscKLLANEOL's — Continued 


No.  of 


8j8 


758 
758 

850 


881 
874 

877 
873 
868 
871 
876 


87a 


IJox. 


Name. 


tlggit  iS''f.— Continued. 


Miscellaneous  articles . 


Frrlal  eggs  of  ptarmigan.. 
Contents  of  gizzard  king 

(tuck. 

Red  snow  .  _ 

Salt  formation 

Shells 

Liquids  (vials  I,  3, 4, 6,  7, 

10,  II). 

Whisky 

Brandy 

Alcohol ,  medical 

Alcohol,  expedition 

Discolored  ice 


.do. 


When  found. 


Where  found. 


June  II, 1883 


June,  1883 
July,  1883 
June  17,  1883 


Distant  Ca|>e . 

Station 

...do 


Remarks. 


Small  Imx  containing  23  small  vials  of 
flies, cater|>illars, bumble  bees,  cocoons, 
worms,  small  insecU,  \c.,  contents  of 
gizzard  of  king  duck,m()ss'likc  forma- 
tions,sea  iiorcupines,rcmainsof  head  of 
lemming,  lichens,  fungi  and  moss,  piece 
of  rosin— all  labeled  with  date,  &c. 


Gardiner. 

Found  in  gizzard  of  male  king  rluck. 


I  Lii|uids  exposed  at  instrument  shelter  to 
low  temperatures. 


Specimen  by  Private  Schneiilcr,  Scptcm 
l)er,  1882,  from  berg  near  Dutch  Island, 
1S82. 
Do. 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land, 

June  30,  1883. 


J.  B.  LocKwoon, 
Seconil  Lieutenant  Twenty-third  Jn/antry,  A.  S.  O, 


Appendix  No.  92. — Sergeant  Brainard'' s  report  on  Lieutenant  Lockzvood'' s  trip  tmvards  the 

United  States  Mountain  range. 

Wa.shin(;ton,  D.  C,  yune  27,  1885. 

Sir  :  In  compliance  with  your  verbal  instructions  of  this  date,  I  have  the  honor  to  resjiectfully  submit 
the  following  report  of  a  journey  made  by  Lieut-  J.  B.  Lockwood,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  and  myself  to  the 
interior  of  Grinnell  Land,  in  July,  1883. 

Under  orders  from  you  to  make  a  journey  to  the  north  and  west  of  Fort  Conger,  to  determine  more 
accurately  the  topography  of  the  country  in  that  direction,  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  myself,  with  Privates 
Henry  and  Biederbick  as  auxiliaries,  lefl  the  station  at  8.30  a.  m.,  July  1 1,  1883. 

Our  equipment  consisted  of  two  blanket  sleeping-bags,  one  rubber  blanket,  an  alcohol  lamp,  snow- 
shoes,  and  a  revolver,  together  with  provisions  for  six  days;  the  whole  weighing  99  pounds.  These  articles 
were  divided  into  four  packs  suitable  to  carry  on  the  shoulders,  and  assigned  to  the  party  as  follows:  Lieut- 
enant Lockwood,  23^  pounds;  Biederbick,  24^  pounds;  Henry,  261^  pounds,  and  myself  25  pounds. 
Shaping  our  course  in  a  NNW.  direction,  we  passed  between  the  large  and  small  Sugar  Loaves,  and 
ascended  the  high  ground  forming  the  divide  between  North  Valley  and  Lake  Alexandra,  to  an  elevation 
of  2,700  feet  [823'"]  above  the  sea.  This  divide  or  "hog-back,"  as  it  is  frequently  called,  extended  in  the 
direction  which  we  were  traveling,  and  owing  to  its  great  elevation  our  survey  of  the  surrounding  country 
was  greatly  facilitated.  Along  the  crest,  and  far  down  on  either  side,  it  was  covered  with  snow  to  a  depth 
of  from  one  to  four  feet  [.3  to  1.2'"].    This  being  soft,  and  holding  in  suspension  large  quantities  of  water, 


■.7jA 


'■'% 


Si 


1 

I 

i 

',  ili 


'  i  i 


k 


I 


318 


THK  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXl'KDITION. 


our  |)rogrcss  was  rcndcrud  slow  and  cxircmely  laborious.  Those  o(  thu  party  who  wore  no  snow-shoes 
would  frc({uently  sink  to  their  waists  in  crossing  places  where  the  snow  was  particularly  deep  and  ahunilantly 
su[>i>lied  with  moisture. 

The  course  of  North  Valley  is  i>arallel  to  the  "hog-hack,"  along  which  we  travele<l,  and  appeared  to 
terminate  in  a  small  ravine  alM)ut  ten  miles  from  Discovery  Harbor.  This  fact,  however,  was  ascertained  by 
the  small  party  under  my  charge,  which  made  an  excursion  up  this  valley  in  September,  1881,  by  your  orders. 
Another  valley,  considerably  larger,  and  separated  from  the  head  of  North  Valley  by  a  narrow  divitle,  drains 
the  country  to  the  north  and  discharges  its  waters  into  St.  Patrick  JJay.  This  valley  was  also  entered  by 
myself  and  party  in  the  autunm  of  1881  and  traversed  for  a  considerable  distance  towards  its  source.  In 
my  verbal  report  to  you  at  that  time,  I  stated  substantially  the  same  as  above,  but  after  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood's  return  from  a  short  trip  up  St.  Patrick  Hay  Valley  the  same  season,  he  (juestioned  the  correctness, 
of  my  observations  and  conclusions  regarding  the  course  of  this  stream.  During  the  last  journey,  however, 
of  which  this  is  a  description,  he  was  convinced  of  the  accuracy  of  my  report  and  concurred  fully  in  my 
opinion,  as  the  following  extract  from  his  field  notes  will  testify:  "North  Valley  Creek  runs  in  this  direction 
a  few  miles,  but  soon  runs  out,  and  a  stream  discharging  into  St.  Patrick  Hay  occupies  what  seems  to  be  its 
prolongation." 

At  5  p.  m.  the  lieutenant  decided  to  camp.  We  had  tramped  fourteen  miles,  ami  were  well  nigh 
exhausted  front  the  exertion  of  wading  through  the  deep,  soft  snow. 

.Selecting  a  bare  spot  among  the  rocks,  an  oasis  in  the  desert  of  snow,  we  rolled  away  a  few  of  the 
largest  stones  and  si)read  down  our  sleeping-bags.  A  cup  of  strong  tea  and  a  few  morsels  of  hard  bread 
and  meat  refreshed  us,  and  with  our  damp  clothing  clinging  about  our  shivering  forms  v/e  retired  to  our 
bags  to  secure  a  few  hours  of  much  needed  rest. 

The  next  morning  (12th)  Lieutenant  Lockwood  directed  Henry  and  Uiederbick  to  construct  a  large 
cairn  and  then  to  return  to  the  station,  leaving  their  sleeping-bag  behind  them  for  our  use  on  the  return  trip. 
We  reduced  our  loads  also  by  caching  the  rubber  blanket,  snow-shoes,  and  sufficient  provisions  to  take 
us  back  to  the  station.  Starting  at  9.45  a.  m.,  we  traveled  north  towards  a  spur  or  elbow-like  point  of  the 
llnite<l  States  range  of  mountains  containing  a  large  and  conspicuous  glacier.  For  the  first  three  miles  we 
tramped  through  the  deep,  soft  snow,  alternated  occasionally  by  mud  and  stones.  After  this  the  snow 
became  deeper  and  softer  than  before  and  the  traveling  in  conseciuence  w.is  more  difficult  than  ever.  About 
this  time  we  crossed  two  deep,  rocky  gorges  which  conveyed  a  considerable  quantity  of  water  to  the  east- 
ward into  the  main  course.  Climbing  the  north  side  of  the  last  of  these  two  gorges  we  gradually  ascended  a 
dome-shaped  and  snow-clad  mountain  or  "hog-back,"  about  3,000  feet  [914'"]  in  elevation.  Pushing  on  a 
few  miles  farther  wc  reached  the  apparent  termination  of  the  divide,  and  descending  along  its  slippery,  rocky 
sides  for  1,000  feet  [305"'],  we  w.ided  knee  deep  across  a  large  stream  flowing  from  the  northwest.  Passing 
down  this  stream  for  a  short  distance  we  reached  the  main  water-course,  the  flank  of  which  we  had  been 
following,  and  camped  at  4. 1 5  p.  m.  The  distance  traveled  was  estimated  at  twelve  miles.  In  the  vicinity  of 
our  camp  we  found  abundant  traces  of  foxes,  hares,  lemmings,  musk-oxen,  and  ptarmigan.  The  traces  of 
the  musk-oxen  were  not  recently  made.  We  also  saw  several  snow-buntings  and  heard  the  peculiar  call  of 
a  knot.  On  awakening  the  following  morning  (13th),  we  were  startled  to  observe  that  the  sky  was  obscured 
and  that  the  barometer  was  rapidly  falling.  Starting  at  8  a.  m.,  a  brisk  walk  of  two  hours  carried  us  to  the 
summit  of  a  high  ridge  four  miles  north  of  camp,  where  we  obtained  a  good  view  of  the  country  beyond. 
From  this  point  Lieutenant  Lockwood  decided  to  return  to  the  station,  and  an  attempt  was  made  to  accu- 
rately establish  our  position  by  a  meridian  altitude,  but  this  we  found  impossible  to  do  owing  to  the  cloudy 
weather  which  prevailed.  A  few  sights,  however,  were  made  with  a  prismatic  compass,  and  the  bearing  of  a 
few  of  the  more  important  peaks  as  well  as  the  glacier  were  obtained.  These  observations  will  be  found 
recorded  in  s/wr/  hand  in  one  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  volumes  of  field  notes. 

Iktween  our  position  and  the  United  States  range  of  mountains  (which  was  about  fifteen  miles  away), 
the  country  was  undulating  but  generally  level  and  of  great  elevation.  The  large  glacier  previously  men- 
tioned is  .in  offshoot  of  the  sea  of  ice  which  appears  to  cover  the  summit  as  well  as  the  eastern  slope  of  this 
range.  The  peaks  protrude  through  the  ice-cap,  if  it  may  so  be  called,  and  show  to  a  considerable  height 
above  it,  in  many  places  devoid  of  snow.  With  the  powerful  telescope  which  we  carried  with  us  we  were 
enabled  to  scan  closely  the  face  of  the  huge  glacier,  and  to  determine  its  size  and  peculiarities  with  a  toler- 
able degree  of  accuracy.    At  the  point  of  entrance  to  the  valley  its  front  was  at  least  six  miles  across,  and 


«dir<^- 


THE  LADY  FIIANKLIN  BAY  EXI'EDITION. 


319 


the  vertical  wall  or  face  from  loo  to  300  feet  [30  to  cji"'|  hij{li.  I  iKaitate  in  making  the  above  assertion,  as 
it  seems  almost  incre(lil)lc,  but  in  justice  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood  I  think  this  fact  shoulil  be  stated.  We 
agrred  on  the  height  of  this  wall  only  after  lon^  and  careful  scrutiny.  A  dark  line  extending  alonj;  the  base 
of  the  wall  we  surmised  to  be  its  terminal  moraine.  One  |  eak  taller  and  more  <  ()nsi)i(  uous  than  the  otiiers, 
and  standing  alone  in  the  mrr  lic  f^lacr,  was  named  Mount  Arthur  Kugene.  'i'he  elevation  of  this  range  is 
very  great.  Tiie  ridge  on  which  wc  were  standing  was  about  2,500  feet  [y^JJ"')  above  the  sea,  and  the 
summit  of  the  range  towering  above  us  must  certainly  iiave  been  as  much  more  above  us. 

The  country  to  the  eastward  of  our  |>osition  was  irregular,  and  much  broken  by  ravines  leading  into 
the  main  water-course.  To  the  west,  for  a  ilistance  of  about  ten  miles,  the  country  appeared  about  the 
same  as  to  the  northward,  but  beyond  that  point  high  ground  (up|)arently  a  table-land)  obstructed  our 
view. 

Building  a  small  cairn  in  which  a  record  and  our  remaining  provisions  were  deposited,  we  started  back 
at  11.45  *•  "'•'  retracing  our  steps  to  the  last  camp  for  our  sleeping-bag. 

Rocrossing  the  large  stream  or  river  of  which  I  have  previously  spoken,  and  ascending  its  precipitous 
bank  until  near  the  snow-line,  we  halted  for  luncii  and  a  few  hours'  rest.  Abandoning  the  slecjiing-bag  and 
provisions,  nothing  was  left  for  us  to  carry  except  the  spirit  lamp  and  instruments.  With  this  comparatively 
light  load  we  pushed  towards  our  first  camp  as  rapidly  as  the  nature  of  the  route  would  permit.  At  8  p.  m. 
we  reached  the  camp  and  found  the  etiuipment  and  provisions  which  we  had  cached  in  excellent  order. 
Dark,  threatening  clouds  had  rolled  u|)  from  the  eastern  horizon,  indicating  that  an  unusual  atmospheric 
disturbance  was  in  progress  in  that  direction.  No  storm,  however,  followed,  although  one  had  been  clearly 
indicated.  This  was  a  great  relief  to  us  as  we  had  no  protection  against  the  elements  except  such  as  could 
be  furnished  by  a  thin  blanket  sleeping-bag. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  we  started  homeward  at  8.50,  first  caching  the  snow-shoes,  sleeping-bag, 
and  a  few  cans  of  fresh  meat.  We  reached  Fort  Conger  at  2  p.  m.  in  good  health,  but  greatly  fatigued 
from  the  severe  exertion  which  we  had  undergone. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

D.  L.  Brainard, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S,  Army. 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

/"/////  Cavalry,  U.  S,  A.,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant, 
Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition, 


:i 


Appendix  No.  93. — Orders  to  Lieutenant  Lockivood  to  receive  medical  stores  from  Dr.  Pavy. 


Fort  Cdwger,  Grinnell  Land,  yuly  9,  1883. 


(Orders  No.  3.) 


Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  having  officially  declared  his  unwillingness  to  renew  his  contract 
with  this  expedition,  will  transfer  to  Second  Lieut.  James  B.  Lockwood,  A,  S.  O.,  the  medical  stores 
and  supplies  for  which  he  is  responsible.  He  will  also  turn  over  to  that  officer,  not  later  than  July  19,  1883, 
in  a  sealed  package,  his  diary.  By  diary  will  be  understood  all  notes  and  observations  made  durinc;  this 
expedition,  as  well  as  memoranda  of  current  events.  Similar  action  will  be  taken  regarding  ui  collections 
of  any  kind  made  since  July  20,  1881,  which  will  be  packed,  boxed,  and  addressed  to  th*;  (,'  !ef  Signal 
Officer.     Clerical  and  other  assistance  will  be  furnished  as  needed. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavolry,  A.  S.  O.,  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  the  Expedition, 
A.  A.  Surgeon  O.  Paw, 

U.  S.  Army, 


Appendix  No.  95. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

Appendix  No.  94. — Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy  asking  the  detail  of  Stcivard  BiedcrMck. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yuly  9,  1883. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  respectfully  request  that  for  a  week,  beginning  the  loth  of  July,  the  help  of 
my  hospital  stew^nl  (or  of  the  man  that,  since  the  beginning  of  the  expedition,  has  been  chosen  to  perform 
that  duty)  .should  be  allowed  to  me,  for  the  complete  and  detailed  inventory  of  my  medical  stores. 

1  will  also  respectfully  recjuest  to  be  officially  informed  if  it  is  or  not  the  privilege  of  a  surgeon  serving 
with  a  military  command  to  be,  on  his  demand,  furnished  with  the  assistance  of  his  hospital  steward,  or  of 
the  enlisted  men  detailed  for  that  duty. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours. 

Octave  Paw, 
Actg.  Assf,  Surgeon,  U.  S.  Army. 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


-Reply  of  Lieutenant  Greely  to  Dr.  Pavy''s  request  for  detail  of  Steward 
Bicdcrbick. 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  fuly  9,  1883. 
Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter  of  this  date,  asking  the  undivided 
services  of  Private  Biederbick  for  a  week  from  July  10,  to  make  an  inventory  of  your  medical  stores. 

You  are  advised,  as  you  have  already  been  verbally,  that  Private  Biederbick  is  under  orders  for  two 
days'  field  service,  and  that  he  will  he  at  your  command  from  the  \i.*\\  instant. 

The  inventory  of  your  stores  cannot  possibly  require  more  than  two  days'  labor,  if  they  have  been 
jtroperly  cared  for,  and  I  cannot  see  that  your  [•  interest  will]  suflfer  by  the  postponement. 

As  you  are  to  officially  abandon  this  expedition  within  ten  days,  I  see  no  reason  why  your  question 
shouUl  be  answered, particularly  as  it  bears  ["and  improperly]  on  my  action  in  this  matter. 

I  have  only  to  invite  your  attention  to  the  fact  that  there  is  no  hospital  steward  connected  with  this 
expedition,  nor  have  you  ever  requested  one.     Private  Bieder  bick  has  .issisted  you  in  that  capacity  iox  two 
years  without  interfering  with  his  other  duties,  and  the  interests  of  the  service  ['do  not  demand  a  change]. 
1  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv,  ' 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O,  and  Asst.,  Commanding  Expedition. 
Actg.  Asst.  Surgeon  O.  Paw, 

U.  S.  Army, 


Appendix  No.  96. — iMter  of  Dr.  Pavy''s,  dated  fuly  18,  i88j. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  fuly  18,  if  S3. 
Sir:  My  second  contract, expiring  on  the  20th  of  this  month,  I  wish  to  respectfully  express  my  desire 
not  to  have  it  renewed. 

As  I  do  not  intend  to  remain  in  the  service  and,  as  (according  to  your  view)  our  work  will,  in  the 
short  space  of  a  month  or  two,  be  virtually  ended  by  the  arriv-il  of  a  ship  in  Discovery  Harbor,  or  by 
our  reaching  her  in  Kennedy  Channel,  my  action  is  of  minor  importance. 

As  a  matter  of  course  I  offer  my  services  to  the  expedition,  and  declare  myself  willing  and  ready  to 
perform  the  same  duties  as  in  the  past;  slill  devoting  myself  entirely  to  the  wellfare  {sii\  and  success  of 
our  undertaking. 

It  will  be  well  understood  by  me,  that  I  shall  not  consider  the  Department  as  being  indebted  for  any 
remuneration,  .and  that  all  expenses  incurred  by  my  living  will  remain  to  my  charge. 
I  .1111,  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Octave  Paw, 
Act.  Asst.  Surgeon^  U,  S.  Army. 
To  the  CoMMANDiNo  Officer. 

*  Inteqjolations  from  letter  press  copy. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Appendix  No.  97. — Answer  to  letter  re/erred  to  in  Appendix  No.  g6. 


321 


Fori-  Concier,  Grinnki.i.  Land,  yuly  19,  1883. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  tlie  receipt  of  your  communication  of  July  18,  wherein  you 
reiterate  your  unwillingness  to  renew  your  contnact  as  acting  assistant  surgeon,  U.  S.  Army.     I  cannot  concur 
in  your  opinion  that  such  action  is  of  minor  importance. 

Whether  this  expedition  remains  a  month  or  a  year  without  an  official  medical  adviser,  timf  is  unim- 
portant, the  moral  aspects  important.  Ship  or  no  ship,  retreat  or  no,  you  joined  this  expediton  under  a 
moral  obligation  to  serve  during  its  continuance,  and  you  well  know  that  the  Surgeon-Cieneral  never  would 
have  sanctioned  your  contract  had  he  [•  surmised]  even  the  possibility  of  your  quitting,  under  any  circum- 
stance, a  command  situated  without  the  confines  of  the  civilized  world. 

I  have  the  honor  to  advise  you  that  should  you  at  any  time  consent,  I  should  deem  it  my  duty  to  renew 
your  corttract  as  before. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully  yours, 

A.  VV.  Greelv, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.,  and  Assisrant, 

Commanding  Expedition. 
Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Paw, 

U.  S.  Army, 


Appendix  No.  98. — Dr.  Pavy's  refusal  to  turn  over  his  diary. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yuly  19,  1883. 

Sir:  In  conformity  with  the  order  of  July  9th,  I  h;  *  transferred  my  medical  property  and  the  specimens 
of  natural  history  gathered  by  myself  and  addressed  to  the  Chief  Signal  Othcer. 

As  you  are  aware,  all  my  private  gathering  (except  the  flowers)  were,  in  the  first  days  of  June,  turned 
over  with  the  general  collections. 

As  to  the  question  of  diary,  etc.,  I  will  say  that  to  the  best  of  my  ability  I  have  furnished  you  with  all  my 
personal  views  and  official  opinions  by  reports,  when  desired. 

My  journal,  destitute  of  any  official  value,  is  a  mere  record  of  events,  hypothesis,  and  reminscences 
[si(],  closely  mingled  with  personal  and  intimate  thoughts  synthetised  [sic]  from  detached  notes  and 
reduced  into  letters  of  an  entirely  private  character,  for  the  only  use  of  my  family,  but  on  our  return  to 
the  United  States,  if  any  personal  opinion  concerning  events,  or  even  my  appreciation  of  physical,  natural, 
medical,  geographical,  etc.,  etc.,  phenome:ia  are  of  any  interest  to  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  I  will  consider 
myself  honored  to  be  allowed  to  put  at  his  disposal  any  extracts  of  my  polar  journal  and  Greenland  notes, 
as  well  as  any  of  the  general  Arctic  information  collected  by  myself  during  sixteen  years  of  continued 
Arctic  studies. 

I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours. 

Octave  Pavy. 

To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


Appendix  No.  99. — Letter  transmittinir  charges  to  Dr.  Pavy. 

Fort  Congep,  Grinnell  Land,  yuly  19,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  to  herewith  transmit  to  you  copy  of  charge  and  specifications  this  day  preferred  against 
you,  and  to  inform  you  th.it  the  originals  have  been  forwarded  to  the  Adjutant-General  of  the  Army. 

The  legal  results  of  this  action  prevent  the  termination  of  your  term  of  service  with  this  day  as  con- 
templated by  you,  but  retains  you  in  the  Army  awaiting  trial  by  a  general  court-martial. 

I  am,  respectfully,  yours, 

A.  W.  CJreelv, 

First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  E.xpedition. 
Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Paw,  U.  i>.  Army. 

•  Interpolation  from  letter-press  copy. — A.  W.  G, 
H.  Mis.  393 21 


322 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Charge  and  specifications  against  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Fa,vy,  U.  S.  Army. 

Charge. — Disobedience  of  orders. 

Specification  ist.  In  this  that  he,  Acting,  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  U.  S.  Army,  having  been  directed 
by  orders  No.  3,  dated  Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  July  9,  1883,  to  turn  over  to  Second  Lieutenant  James 
B.  Lockwood,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O.,  his  diary,  did  fail  and  refuse  to  obey  such  order. 
This  at  Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  July  19,  1883. 

Specification  2d.  In  this  that  he.  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  U.  S.  A.,  having  been  verbally 
ordered  by  First  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Greely,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  commanding,  to  turn  over 
within  two  hours  his  diary  to  Second  Lieutenant  James  B.  Lockwood,  Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O.,  did 
positively  refuse  to  obey  said  order. 

This  at  Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  July  19,  1883. 

Specification  ^d.  In  this  that  he,  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  U.  S.  A.,  having  been  ordered  in 
arrest  by  First  Lieutenant  A,  \V.  Greely,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  commanding,  did  refuse  to 
obey  said  order,  and  so  refused  until  Lieutenant  Greely  called  for  a  guard  to  enforce  it,  when  he.  Acting 
Assistaiit  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  said :  "  I  accept  the  arrest  physically  but  not  morally." 
This  at  Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  July  19,  1883. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 
Witnesses : 

First  Lieutenant  A,  W.  Greely, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant. 
Second  Lieutenant  James  B.  Lockwood, 

Twenty-third  Infantry,  A.  S.  O. 


Appendix  No.  100. — Letter  limiting  Dr.  Pavy^s  hounds  while  in  arrest. 

Fort  Conoer,  Grinnell  Land,  yuly  19,  1883. 
Sir:  Your  order  of  arrest  this  day  made  will  confine  you  10  your  private  quarters  except  the  times 
needful  for  meals,  personal  offices,  and  such  exercise  as  you  judge  requisite  for  health.     Exercise  will  be 
taken  within  one  mile  of  the  astronomical  observatory. 
Very  respectfully,  yours, 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding  the  Expedition. 

Acting  Assistant  Surgeon  O.  Pavy,  U.  S.  Army. 


Appendix  No.  ioi. — Order  for  the  abandonmeut  of  station  at  Fort  Conger. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yuly  28,  1883. 
Orders  No.  5. 
In  case  of  the  non-arrival  of  a  vessel  by  August  9,  1883,  this  station  will  be  abandoned  and  a  retreat 
southward  by  boats  to  Littleton  Island  will  be  attempted. 

Sixteen  pounds  of  personal  baggage  will  be  allowed  to  each  officer  and  eight  pounds  to  each  man. 

A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 
.  Commanding  the  Expedition, 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


323 


Appendix  No.  102. — List  of  commissary  subsistence  stores  abandoned  at  Fort  Conger^  Grinnell 

iMndy  August  9,  i8Sj. 


Articles. 


Apples,  3-lb.  cans cans. 

Asparagus do. 

Allspice lbs. 

Bacon do. 

Beef,  salt. bbls. 

Beef,  extract  of,  2-lb.  cans cans. 

Hard  bread lbs, 

Beans,  black. do. 

Beans,  baked,  3-lb.  cans cans. 

Butter lbs 

Corn-meal,  14-lb.  tins tins 

Coffee,  Rio lbs 

Coffee,  Java do. 

Chocolate,  McCobb's do. 

Chocolate,  Baker's do. 

Cinnamon do. 

Cloves  . _do. 

Eggs,  condensed cans. 

Extract  celery bottles. 

Gelatine,  Swinburn's packets. 

Gelatine,  Nelson's do. 

Ginger lbs. 

Hominy  (tins) do. 

Hops 1 do. 

Currant  jelly cans. 

Lard,  5-lb.  cans lbs. 

Milk,  i-lb.  cans cans 

Mustard.. lbs 


Quantity. 


30 
•3 

1,079 

10 

114 

9.514 

688 
116 

33 
8 

7SO 

57 
u6>4 

'5      i 

2      I 

aK  1 
104     \ 

7      I 

50  ! 

«3 

9^ 

55 

83 

7 

375 

18 

176 


Articles. 


Moloitses . galls. 

Mutton  extract cans. 

Nutmegs ozs. 

Oatmeal lbs. 

Onions cans 

Pork bbls 

Peaches,  evaporated lbs. 

Peaches,  preserved jars 

Pepper,  black lbs 

Pepper,  Chili  do 

Pepper,  Tobasco bottles 

Pickle.s,  s.iiir-kraut,  ^-bbl-kegs...kegs 

Pickles,  onion.s,  io-g.ill.  kegs do 

Potatoes,  2j-i-ll).  cans cans. 

Preserved  ilamsons,  2-lb.  cans . .  .do 

Rhubarb do 

Salt lbs 

Salt,  table,  3-lb.  bags bags 

.Sauce,  cranberry,  2-lb.  cans cans 

.Soup,  ox-tail do 

Soup,  mock-turtle do 

Tea,  green,  gunpowder lbs 

Tomatoes,  3-lb.  cans  . . cans 

Vinegar galls 

Tobacco,  plug lbs 

Castile  soap cakes 

Pipe-stems,  Weichsel .No 


Quantity. 


160 

14 

25 

42 
"43 

2im 

75 
26 

39 

3>i 

4 
II 

I 

3 

48 

710 

>.277i« 

45 
281 

28 

70 
"5 

'5 
174 
360 

12 

30 


ill  !> 


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324  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Appendix  No.  103. — Medical  Reports. 

A. 

Fort  Congkr,  Grinnei.l  Land,  March  4,  1882. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  to  you  the  substance  of  my  weekly  verbal  reports  regarding  the  health 
of  the  command,  since  its  arrival  at  Fort  Conger. 

August.    The  health  has  been  excellent  during  the  month  of  August. 

After  landing,  lime  juice  has  been  issued  to  the  men  at  the  dose  of  half  an  ounce  three  times  a  week. 

September.  During  the  month  of  September  the  health  has  been  very  good,  excepting  the  case  of  Sergt. 
Rice,  who  when  travelling  with  me,  from  Lincoln  Bay,  was  seized  with  inflaniatory  \su-\  rheumatism  and  re- 
mained under  my  treatment  for  ten  days. 

During  this  month  the  use  of  lime  juice  has  been  gradually  increased  to  the  dose  of  one  ounce  daily. 

October.  In  the  month  of  October  the  health  of  the  command  was  very  good,  and  no  signs  of  scurvy 
had  been  noticed.  * 

Pvt.  Long  (cook  since  we  landed)  was  relieved  from  duty  the  7th,  antl  during  two  weeks  remained 
under  treatment  for  animia  [an?emiaj. 

During  the  month  daily  doses  of  lime  juice  were  issued. 

November.     Except  a  case  of  frost-bitten  toe,  and  a  few  minor  complaints,  the  health  has  been  good. 

l>aily  doses  of  an  ounce  of  lime  juice  were  issued. 

No  signs  of  scurvy  have  yet  appeared. 

December.  During  the  month  of  December  I  have  not  found  any  symtoms  \su\  of  scurvy,  but  cases  of 
animia  [aniemia]  &  dyspepsia  came  frequently  under  my  care ;  otherwise  the  health  has  been  good. 

Sergt.  Gardiner  has  met  with  an  accident  (contracted  in  line  of  duty)  which  resulted  in  a  fracture  of  the 
lower  extremity  of  the  left  leg. 

From  the  15th  to  the  middle  of  January  we  have  issued  daily  rations  of  can-fruit  [.t/VJ,  which  I  think, 
with  the  use  of  iron  and  tonics,  have  produced  good  results. 

yanuary.  From  the  middle  of  January  the  general  state  of  the  health  has  improved.  During  the 
first  two  weeks  in  the  month  I  have  found  in  one  of  the  observers  signs  of  great  animia  |am£mia|  borilering 
perhaps  on  scurvy.     But  after  a  week,  he  was  able  to  resume  his  work. 

The  only  positive  but  slight  premonitory  symtoms  \sic\  of  scurvy  observed  this  winter  were  in  the  case  of 
the  Eskimo  dog  driver  Jens  Edward,  who  since  December  was  laboring  under  a  great  despondency  of  mind. 
At  the  beginning  of  February  he  had  entirely  recovered. 

The  daily  dose  of  lime  juice  was  issued  during  the  month. 

February,  In  February  the  health  of  the  command  was  excellent,  and  signs  of  animia  [anaemia]  and 
dyspepsia  were  less  numerous  than  in  the  previous  month. 

Lime  juice  has  been  regularly  issued. 

No  signs  of  scurvy  have  been  noticed. 

During  the  winter  the  use  of  fresh  beef,  can-fruits  \sic\  and  vegetables  have  been  instrumental  in  the  pres- 
ervation of  our  health. 

I  would  call  your  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  command  is  generally  affected  (of  dift'erent  degrees)  with 
chronic  bronchitis. 

I  would  therefore  respectfully  advise,  that,  as  soon  as  possible,  measure  \sk\  should  be  taken  to  prevent 
the  escape  of  deleterious  gas  from  the  stoves  from  both  rooms. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant, 

Octave  Paw, 
Act.  Asst,  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A, 

[•To  the  Commanding  Officer.] 


*A(Ulrcss  omitted  in  original. — A.  W.  G, 


*^*immmimmmmm 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


325 


B. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  February  28M,  1882. 
Sir:  In  answer  to  your  request  oJ  the  26th  of  February  I  will  respectfully  say,  that  with  three  excep- 
tions the  enlisted  men  of  this  expedition  are  to-day  physically  fit  for  spring  sledging,  if  properly  clothed  and 
if  not  overworked  and  not  exjjosed  to  the  evil  effect  of  too  low  temperature. 

The  three  enlisted  men  excepted  are  Ser^^t.  Ganiingr— convalescent  from  a  fracture  of  the  left  leg. 
Serg/,  CVww— easily  affected  by  cold  feet. 

J^if,  Bender — lungs  are  liable  to  be  affected  by  exposure  to  cold. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant. 

Octave  Paw, 
Act,  Asst.  Suri^eon,  U,  S.  A. 
[•  To  the  Commanding  Officer.] 

C.  _   '  -       '  . 

Fort  Conoer,  Grinnei.i.  Land,  March  4,  1882. 
Sir  :  In  answer  to  your  letter  of  the  first  of  March,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  to  you  my  advise  \sic\  as 
to  the  nutritive  value  of  the  aliments  that  arc  to  compose  the  sledge  rations. 

I  believe,  the  quantity  and  nature  of  the  food,  that  you  have  mentioned  in  your  letter,  to  be  very  healthy 
for  the  sledging  parties,  that  you  intent  [sic]  to  sent[^/<]  out  in  the  spring. 

The  only  suggestion  that   1  could  make  would  be  to  replace  the  24  oz  baked  beans  by  12  oz  baked 
beans  and  12  o/,  of  meat  or  jicnnnican,  as  a  ration. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant, 

Octave  Paw, 
Act.  Asst.  Siirf;eon,  U.  S,  A. 
[•  To  the  Commanding  Officer,] 

Fort  Concer,  Grinnell  Land,  March  \ith,  1882. 
Sir:  In  answer  to  your  letter  of  the  i6th  of  March,  in  which  you  have  given  me  my  instructions  for 
a  journey  over  the  polar  sea,  north  of  Grinnell   Land,  I  have  the  honor  to  state,  at  your  request,  that  the 
health  of  the  command  is  now  good,  and  that  we  have  no  reason  to  anticipate  sickness. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant. 

Octave  Paw, 
Act.  Asst.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 


E. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  August  1st,  1882. 
Sir  :  Since  my  last  sanitary  report  the  health  of  the  command  has  generally  been  gooil.     No  symptoms 
of  scurvy  were  detected,  but  cases  of  animia  [an.'emia]  and  derangement  of  the  digestive  organs  have  at 
times  been  noticed. 

In  the  first  days  of  March,  Pvt.  Bender  was  confined  to  the  bed  with  broncho  pneumonoia  [pneumonia] 
and  Pvt.  Long  came  under  my  care  for  haemoptysia  [hasmoptysis],  (spitting  of  blood).  At  the  end  of  March 
Pvts.  Connell  and  Ellis  suffered  of  superficial  frost  bites. 

In  July  G.  W.  Rice  sprained  his  left  foot,  but  at  this  date  he  has  resumed  his  work. 
During  the  spring  the  command  has  suffered  but  little  of  [from]  snowblindness. 
Since  February  a  daily  dose  of  lime-juice  has  been  regularily  taken. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt,  servant. 

Octave  Pavy, 
Act.  Asst.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


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326 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


P. 


Ft.  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  Se//,  20th,  1882. 
Sir  :  During  the  month  of  August  the  health  of  the  command  has  been  good,  except  in  few  instances, 
where  I  have  found  derangement  of  the  digestive  organs  and  signs  of  animia  [anaemiaj.    The  daily  dose 
of  lime  juice  has  been  regularily  [regularly]  issued. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant. 

Octave  Paw, 
Act.  Asst.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


G. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  October  6th,  i88a. 
Sir  :  During  the  month  of  September,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  minor  complaints,  the  health  of  the 
command  has  been  good. 

In  answer  to  your  order  of  Sept.  30th,  1882,  "  to  submit  at  the  earliest  practicable  moment  a  detailed 
report  as  to  the  health  of  the  individual  members  of  this  command,"  I  will  state  that,  at  this  date,  the 
health  of:  • 

Sergt.  Israel  is  good  at  present,  but  may  need  special  attention  at  times. 
"      Rice,  health  good. 
"      Jewell    "       good. 

"      Ralston's  health  is  good  at  present,  but  may  need  special  attention  during  the  dark  days. 
"      Gardiner.    On  this  date  the  health  of  Sergt.  Gardiner  is  good,  but  will  certainly  need  special 
attention  this  winter,  as  scurvy  would,  in  his  case,  in  all  probability,  be  accompanied  with  disunion  of  the 
fracture  sustained  last  December. 

Moreover,  he  lias  since  a  long  time  been  periodically  under  my  care  for  anoemia  [anaemia]  and  derrange- 
ment  [derangement]  of  the  digestive  organs.     Since  I  mentioned,  in  his  case,  the  necessity  of  exercise,  I  have, 
with  satisfaction  seen  him  take  (what  I  consider  the  best  and  healthiest  of  exercise)  a  daily  walk. 
Sergt.  Brainard,  health  good. 
"      Connell      "        good. 

"      Cross.     The  health  of  Cross  is  apparently  good,  but  I  would  recommend  that  he  should  not  be 
sent  in  the  field  this  fall  and  winter. 

health  good. 

good.  ' 

good.  y 

good, 
good, 
good. 

good.  .   . 

good. 

Long  and  Bender. — The  health  of  Long  and  Bender  is  at  present  comparatively  good.  Since  early  in 
the  fall  of  1 88 1,  they  have  both  been  repeatedly  under  my  care,  one  for  debility  and  the  other  for  weakness 
of  the  lungs.  1  have  verbally  informed  you,  last  spring,  of  ray  desire  to  see  them  sent  home,  had  a  ship 
reached  Discovery  Harbor  in  the  summer  of  1882. 

I  will  strongly  reiterate  the  recommendation  made  last  spring  that,  unless  absolutely  necessary,  these 
two  men  should  not  be  sent  in  the  field  this  fall. 

Pvt.  Ellis.  The  health  of  Ellis  is  good,  but  he  has  repeatedly  complained  of  being  unable  to  perform 
long  marches  on  jiccount  of  an  injured  foot.  The  man  must  certainly,  at  a  time  anterior  to  the  departure 
of  this  command,  met  with  some  accident  which  has  altered  the  shape  of  the  left  inferior  extremity.  But, 
how  far  the  effect  of  the  injury,  can  now,  at  times,  and  under  prolonged  or  violent  exercise,  be  still  manifest, 
I  am  unable  to  answer. 


Corp.  Saler  [Salor], 

"      [Sergeant]  Ellison  [Elison], 
Pvt.  Henury  [Henry], 

"     Frerick  [Frederick], 

"     Linn, 

"     Schneider, 

"     Whistler, 

"     Biederbick, 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


327 


Jens  (Esk.),  health  good. 

Frederik,       "  "      jiood. 

Such  is,  at  this  day,  the  state  of  the  health  of  this  command. 

As  to  the  prospects,  in  the  future,  I  cannot  foretell.  We  are  only  on  the  threshold  of  a  second  winter; 
and  our  situation,  without  precedent,  has  been  concidered  [«V],  by  eminent  medical  aut^lorities,  as  one  of 
great  uncertanty  [sk]  and  danger. 

Moreover,  as  our  dietetic  condition  must,  by  necessity,  be  different  from  what  it  was  the  previous  winter, 
the  prospects  are  thereby  far  from  favi^rably  increased. 

The  variety  of  our  diet  is  reduced  ;  we  are  (com|)ared  to  the  original  plan)  already  under  reduced  rations 
of  some  articles  highly  conducive  to  health;  and  to  a  great  extent  deprived  of  preserved  fresh  vegetables. 

I  ha.e  mentioned  .ibove,  the  few  special  cases  in  which  it  would  be  advisable  to  put  some  restriction 
as  regard  to  the  field  duties.  If  similar  measures  become  necessary  for  other  members  of  the  command,  I 
will  advise  you  when  they  arise. 

In  regard  to  "the  points  of  sanitary  precaulion,"  1  will  state  that  the  change  of  stove  pipes  has  been 
highly  beneficial,  by  stopping  the  emenation  [emanation  |  of  deleterious  gas,  exceedingly  injurious  during  the 
past  winter.  I  should  recommend  that,  as  far  as  j)racticai)le,  a  moderate  temperature  should  be  kept  in  oui 
room;  also,  that  a  quit  [quietj  place  of  repos  |repose|  siiould  bee  [bej  chosen  for  the  observers  who  have 
been  on  duty  during  the  night.  To  obtain,  in  the  men's  ([uarters,  during  the  day,  (juitness  f(juietness]  suffi- 
cient for  the  rest  of  individual  members,  woulil  be  taxing  too  heavily  the  general  mterest,  and  thereby  inter- 
fere with  the  expansion  of  moderate  merriment,  an  element  so  necessary  to  the  promotion  of  health. 

I  think  it  advisable  that,  in  view  of  a  retreat  so  far  considered  by  you  as  certain,  the  men,  specially 
those  employed  this  winter  and  fall  in  field  work,  should  be  well  clothed  and  that  special  attention  should 
be  paid  to  appropriate  foot  and  hand  gear.  Serious  accidents  would  perhaps,  as  in  the  case  of  Dr.  Kane, 
encumber  and  even  endanger  our  retreat. 

I  should  now  suggest  the  propriety  of  having  the  leather  boots  set  aside. 

I  could  not  /CO  stron^^ly  recommend  that,  without  it  being  ordered  except  in  special  cases,  the  habit  of 
daily  walks  (with  all  due  restrictions  dictated  by  prudence)  should  be  encouraged  during  the  last  days  of 
light.  The  heavy  outside  work  is  happily  of  rare  occurrence  or  necessity.  Compulsatory  exercise,  in  my 
opinion  is  certainly  not  as  profitable  to  the  health  as  a  voluntary  and  recreative  one. 

The  general  hygeianic  \sic\  regulations  established  last  winter  are  appropriate  and  can  be  with  advantage 
maintained  for  the  present.     If  I  discover  in  the  future  any  points  to  be  changed,  I  will  at  once  inform  you. 

At  this  date,  I  have  no  case  under  my  care  for  which  special  diet  is  required. 

During  the  month  of  September  daily  doses  of  lime  juice  have  been  issued. 

The  last  paragraph  of  your  communication  orders,  that  "  in  case  even  of  a  suspicion  of  scurvy  a  full  and 
detailed  report  will  be  made  at  once  in  writing."  Scurvy  being  a  disease  of  very  insidious  nature,  and  its 
primary  symptoms  resembling  closely  those  of  many  arctic  complaints  as  anoemia  [anaemia]  rheumatism, 
etc.,  etc.,  differential  diagnostic  need,  "  in  initio,"  some  reserve.  In  many  instances  I  am  convinced  that 
arctic  scurvy  is  a  condition  incident  to  an  aniniic  [antemic]  condition,  in  which  it  is  difficult  to  state  the 
precise  time  at  which  it  assumes  characters  distinctive  enough  to  be  called  scurvy.  You  can  therefore  under- 
stand, that  a  suspicion,  being  only  a  mental  process  of  investigation  entirely  personal  to  the  mind  nf  the 
investigator,  no  practicioner  [practitioner]  will  found  an  opinion  on  it  alone.  My  attention  is  unremittingly 
on  the  qui  vive;  and  as  soon  as  in  any  case  I  will  have  grouped  enough  symptoms  for  a  diagnosis  of 
incipient  scurvy,  I  will  at  once  advise  you  by  writing. 

I  cannot  answer  to  the  paragraph  of  your  order  refering  [i/V]  to  the  "  names  of  all  men  for  whom  a  special 
diet  is  considered  desirable,"  before  all  the  fresh  meat  is  secured  at  the  post.  I  will  also  be  oblige  \sic\  to  ex- 
amine the  list  of  commissary  stores  remaining,  so  as  to  be  able  to  decide  on  what  I  can  at  present  recom- 
mend without  taxing  the  future.  I  deem  it  of  the  highest  importance,  even  of  absolute  necessity  to  be 
informed  of  your  project  concerning  our  future  stay  in  the  arctic,  as  well  as  your  plans  and  means  of  escape. 
My  stock  of  medicines  (very  incomplete  and  even  absolutely  deficient  in  essential  drugs)  is  very  much  reduced 
specially  in  stores  that,  in  the  future,  I  may  be  called  on  to  use  the  most  often.  Your  plans  will  be  in  this 
emergency  entirely  my  ^i^uide  as  to  my  divers  expenditures  at  present  and  my  reserve  ibr  the  future. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obd.  servant, 

Octave  Pavy. 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 

Above  report  received  open  by  the  hand  of  Pvt.  Schneider. — A.  W.  Greelv. 


I  ' 


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328 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 
H. 


Fort  Conoer,  Grinnei.l  Land,  December  ^th,  1882. 
Sir:  During  the  months  of  October  and  November  without  exception,  the  health  of  the  command  has 
been  excellent. 

No  signs  of  scurvy  or  of  any  epidemical  diseases  have  been  detected.  * 

The  customary  dose  of  lime  juice  has  been  regularly  issued. 
t  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servt.. 

Octave  Paw, 
Act,  Asst.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 
To  the  CoMMANDiNc.  Officer. 


I- 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  yanuary  \th,  1883. 
Sir:  During  the  month  of  December  the  health  of  the  party  was  generally  good. 
The  loss  of  appetite  has  been  more  or  less  general,  but  especially  with  Linn,  Frederick,  and  the  two 
Greenlanders. 

Bender  was  again  under  my  care  for  pain  in  the  chest ;  Long  and  Frederick  for  slight  soreness  of  the 
mouth,  and  Biederbick  for  rheumatism. 

Lime  juice  has  been  regularly  issued,  except  on  Christmas  eve. 
No  signs  of  scurvy  or  of  any  epidemic  disease  have  been  noted. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant,  ' 

Octave  Pavy, 
Act.  Asst.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


Ft.  Conoer,  Grinnell  Land,  February  t,th,  1883. 
Sir:  Thehealthof  the  command  during  the  month  of  January,  has  been  generally  good.     No  disease  of 
any  contagious  or  epidemical  character  have  [sic\  made  their  \sic\  appearance  and  no  symptoms  of  scurvy 
have  been  detected. 

Daily  doses  of  lime  juice  were  issued. 
Sergt.  Israel,  health  good. 
"     Rice, 

"     Jewell,      "        " 

"     Ralston,  health  apparently  good,  but  this  year  seemed  to  be  very  easily  affected  by  cold. 
"     Gardiner,  health  good. 
"     Brainard,      "         " 
"    Connell,        "         "    but  often  complains  of  rheumatism. 

"    Cross,  health  good. 

Corp.  [Sergeant]  Ellison  [Elison],     "         " 

"     Saler  [Salor],  "         " 

Pvt.  Fredericks, 

"     Ellis, 

"     Henry,  "        "    but  at  times  complained  of  rheumatism. 

"    Linn, 

"    Schneider, 

"    Whistler,  «i        « 


u 

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It 

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health 

good 

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***«■ 


TUE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


329 


Pvt.  Riederbick,  frequently  under  care  for  rheumatism. 

"     Hender  has  l)een  in  the  beginning  of  January  sufficiently  affected  to  be  carried  on  the  sick  list. 
Complying  with  your  instruction  I  would  state,  I  was  in  need  during  the  month  of  digitalis,  cod  liver 
oil,  and  generally  of  tonics. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obd.  servant, 

Octave  Paw, 
Act.  Asit.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A, 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  March  j^rd,  1883. 
Sir:  During  the  month  of  February,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  cases  of  muscular  rheumatism,  the 
health  of  the  command  has  been  good. 

Pvt.  Render  has  been  at  times  under  my  care,  but  at  this  day  his  health  is  relatively  good. 
Pvt.  Long  has  recovered  from  an  attack  of  rheumatism  with  effusion  in  the  knee. 
The  ordinary  dose  of  lime  juice  has  been  regularly  issued.     No  symptoms  of  scurvy  have  been  detected. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant. 

Octave  Paw, 
Act.  Asst.  Sutgeon,  U.  S.  A. 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


li 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  LMiv,  Apn7  3rd,  1883. 

Sir:  During  the  month  of  March,  the  general  health  of  the  command  has  been  good;  but  as  I  have 
stated  in  my  communication  of  March  9th,  our  powers  of  endurance  (compared  with  the  previous  spring) 
have,  I  believe,  decreased. 

Sergt.  Gardiner. — During  the  last  days  of  March  Gardiner  has  suffered  with  slight  tenderness  of  the 
gums,  but  without  any  symptoms  of  scurvy. 

Sergt.  Ralston. — The  general  state  of  the  health  of  Kalston  has  not  been  very  good  during  the  past 
month.  His  po'""'  '^f  endurance  seemed  to  have  been  less  this  winter.  He  has  also  suffered  of  tenderness 
of  the  gums,  but         out  symptoms  of  scurvy. 

Corp.  Saltr  [Saior]. — Since  the  first  days  of  March,  and  for  two  weeks,  Saler  [Salor]  has  been  under 
my  care  for  general  debility. 

Corp.  [Sergeant]  Ellison  [ElisonJ. — Ellison  [Elison]  started  in  the  field  the  loth  of  March,  his  health 
being  apparently  good,  but  returned  the  14th,  affected  with  general  debility  and  derangement  of  the  digestive 
organs. 

Pvt.  Bender  has  again  at  times  been  under  my  care. 

Pvt.  Long\as,,  in  the  first  days  of  March,  been  relieved  from  duty  for  a  few  days  an  account  of  inflamation 
\sic\  of  the  throat. 

I  should  recommend  that  unless  absolutely  necessary  Sergt.  Cross,  Pvts.  Long  and  Bender  should  not 
be  send  \sic\  in  the  field. 

The  daily  doses  of  lime  juice  have  been  regularly  issued. 

No  symptoms  of  scurvy  have  been  detected. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obd.  servant, 

Octave  Pavy, 
A.  A.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 

To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


330 


THK  LADY   KItANKLIN  BAY  KXI'KIHTION. 


M. 


Ft.  CoNr.F.R,  GRiNNEt.i.  Land,  April yith,  1883. 

Sir:  In  answer  to  your  request  of  March  aStli,*  I  liave  tlie  honor  to  state  that  tlie  health  of  tl»e  com- 
niand  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30th.  18S2,  has  l)eiii  as  follows. 

In  August  the  health  was  excellent. 

!n  September  it  remained  very  good,  except  in  tlie  caseofSer^t.  Rice  who  suffered  with  inHammatory 
rheumatism  and  remained  under  treatment  for  ten  days. 

During  Octoher  the  sanitary  state  was  very  good. 

In  November  the  health  has  been  good  with  the  exception  of  a  few  minor  complaints.  In  this  month 
Sergt.  (lardiner  met  with  an  accident  of  a  serious  nature,  (fracture  of  the  lower  extremity  of  the  leg). 

During  December,  .aniemia  [an;vmiaj  and  derrangement  [derangement |  of  the  digestive  organs  as  well 
as  lironchities  [l)ronchitis]  have  been  frecpiently  observed.  Sergt.  Rice  was  incapacitated  for  duty  the  13th, 
having  met  with  a  severe  contusion  of  the  left  shoulder. 

From  the  middle  of  January  the  general  state  of  the  health  has  improved. 

During  this  month  I  have  found  in  Sergt.  Ralston  signs  of  gre.at  antemia  [an.tmia)  bordering  perhaps 
on  scurvy. 

The  only  positive  but  slight  symptoms  of  scurvy  observed  this  winter  were  in  the  case  of  the  F.skimo 
Jens  Kdward,  who  since  December,  was  Laboring  under  a  great  desjOTudency  of  the  mind.  Me  has  not 
been  incapacitated  for  duty. 

In  February  the  health  of  the  command  was  good,  and  the  signs  of  dyspepsia  and  anoema  [anaemia  | 
were  less  numerous  than  in  the  previous  month. 

During  the  winter,  and  especially  at  its  end,  the  command  was  generally  affected  with  chronic  bron- 
chities  [bronchilisj.  Until  the  end  of  the  fiscal  year  of  1882,  with  the  exception  of  individual  cases  of 
anoemia  [ana;mia|  and  derrangement  [derangement [  of  the  digestive  organs,  the  general  health  of  the  party 
has  been  good. 

In  the  first  days  of  March  I'vt.  liender  was  confined  to  the  bed  by  a  slight  attack  of  broncho  pneu- 
monia and  Pvt.  Long  came  under  my  care  for  s|)itting  blood.  Pvt.  KIlis  was  relieved  from  duty  in  March 
for  su|)erficial  frost  bite  of  the  foot,  and  in  April  Sergt.  Connell,  for  the  same  cause. 

Pvt.  Biederbick  was  confineil  to  the  bed  for  general  debility  in  tlie  month  of  April. 

During  the  spring  the  command  has  suffered  but  little  of  snowblindness. 

The  stores  furnished  by  the  Medical  Department  have  generally  been  found  of  excellent  quality  ;  the 
supply  of  instruments  very  complete,  but  for  the  books,  I  should  like  to  have  been  supplied  with  more  recent 
editions. 

As  requested  by  you,  I  give  a  list  of  some  of  the  drugs  generally  indispensable  in  the  practice  of  med- 
icine, and  of  which  none  has  been  furnished  me. 

For  the  deficiance  [deficiency  |  of  medicine  generally  considered  useful  or  necessary  to  practice,  the  Med- 
ical Department  at  home  can  from  invoices  form  her  own  judgment. 


List  of  medicines  generally  considered  as  indispensable. 


Cod  liver  oil, 
Hyoscyamus, 
Strychnia, 


Digitalis, 
Nux  vomica, 
Veratrum  viride. 


List  of  men  that  have  been  incapacitated  for  duty. 

Rice,  inflammatory  rheumatism.  Sept,  8th;  relieved  for  10  days;  contusion  of  the  left  shoulder  Dec.  13th 

returned  to  duty  Jan,  3rd. 
Ralston. — Ancemia  [anaemia]  Jan  6th ;  relieved  of  duty  about  one  week.     Conjunctivitis  Jan.  8th;  relieved 

one  day. 

*The  order  requiring  this  report  is  referred  to  on  page  42. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION 


331 


Gardinet. — Fracture  of  the  lower  extremity  of  the  left  leg,  Nov.  30th. 

Conntll, — Rheumatical  attack  Sept.  nth;  relieved  for  one  day.     Anccmia  [anaemin]  Dec.  8th:  relieved 

three  days.     Frost  bitten  foot  Apl.  7th  ;  relieved  until  Apl.  a 5th. 
Ellison  [ElisonJ. — Face  burned  by  explosion  of  gasoline  Nov.  loth  ;  relieved  for  five  days. 
Ellis. — Uiarrh(JBa  March  igth  ;  one  day  relieved.     Frost  bitten  toe  Mch.  asth  ;  returned  to  duty  April  23rd. 
Whistler. — Affection  of  the  sexual  organ  Oct.  12th;  relieved  four  d.iys.     Frost  bitten  toe  .Sept.  1 1 ;  rtiievid 

for  two  days. 
Biederhick — Frost-bite  Nov.  7th;  relieved  for  twenty  days.    General  debility  25111  Apl.;  returned  to  duty 

4th  May. 
Schneider. — Sore  throat  Nov.  29;  relieved  two  days.     Bronchities  [bronchitis]  with  dyspepsia  1  )«•<:.  6lh ; 

relieved  two  days. 
Long. — Spitting  of  blood   March  4th  ;  relievefl  three  days.     Anoemia  [ansemia]  Oct.  9th  ;  returned  to  duty 

Oct.  1 6th. 
Bendep .—Oct.  22nd,  relieved  untd  Oct.  30th,  for  pain  in  the  chest.     Burn  of  the  hand  Jan.  17th  to  19th. 

Broncho  pneumonia  March  ist  to  6th. 
Henry. — Attack  of  rheumatism  April  6th;  resumed  duty  April  nth. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant. 

Octave  Paw, 
A.  A,  Surgeon,  U,  S.  A. 

To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


;( i 


N. 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  May  5,  1883. 

Sir:  During  the  month  of  April  the  general  health  of  the  command  has  apparently  been  good. 

The  inconvenience  derived  from  the  need  of  fires  during  the  nights  was  felt,  and  if  it  has  not  been  the 
cause  of  sickness  it  has  certainly  not  been  conducive  to  health.  Any  hardships  that  can  be  dispensed  with, 
or  any  comfort  that  can  be  procured  is  in  these  latitudes  (especially  after  a  second  winter)  eminently  influ- 
ential in  helping  to  keep  the  state  of  the  health  at  or  above  par. 

The  experience  of  our  party  this  spring  has  confirmed  the  general  rule,  th.at  after  a  second  winter  spent 
in  a  high  northern  latitude,  men  are  less  capable  of  withstanding  the  hardships  of  arctic  work;  physical 
strength  is  notably  reduced,  and  the  body,  far  from  becoming  endured  [inured]  to  cold  and  exposure,  is  on 
the  contrary,  less  prepared  to  resist  its  effects. 

The  ordinary  doses  of  lime-juice  have  been  regularly  issued  during  the  month.  No  symptoms  of  scurvy 
have  been  detected. 

I  will  ask  to  be  allowed  (the  20th  of  this  month  or  about)  to  undertake  a  journey  in  the  interior  and 
around  Lake  Hazen.  I  think  that  it  would  be  interesting  to  study  there  the  effects  of  glacier  action,  past 
and  present,  as  well  as  the  geological  formation  of  this  range  of  mountains. 

Although  I  am  doing  the  functions  of  naturalist  I  do  not  lay  any  claim  to  the  title,  but  years  ago  in 
the  Alps  and  in  Greenland  during  my  stay  of  i88o-'8i,  I  have  studied  this  question  practically. 

Moreover,  the  journey  would  perhaps  contribute  to  the  advancement  of  arctic  zoology  in  our  efforts 
to  establish  the  fact,  or  to  disprove  the  belief  concerning  the  wintering  of  musk-oxen  in  Grinnell  Land,  and 
especially  at  or  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lake  Hazen. 

During  this  trip  musk-oxen  could  probably  be  killed,  as  the  neighborhood  of  the  lake  has  been  con- 
sidered by  us  as  the  best  resort  for  game. 

I  am,  very  respectfuV.y,  your  obt.  servant, 

Octave  Paw, 
Actg.  Assl.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  Army. 

To  the  Commanding  Officer.  ♦  v 


*  , 


^1 


y 


J! 


I 


I, 


i 


832 


TlIK  liADV   KKANKIiliV  HAY  KXI'KIUTION. 


O. 


Fort  Conoer,  Orinnf.i.l  Land,  yi/nf  4/,),  1883. 

Sir:  With  the  exception  of  indivichial  cases  durinj;  the  month  of  May,  the  health  of  the  party  has 
generally  been  good,  but  (leranj^enients  of  the  digestive  r)rgans  have  been  more  freipient  and  more  general 
(not  of  a  serious  character)  than  at  any  time  since  the  reappearance  of  the  sun. 

Sergt.  Ralston. — During  the  winter  the  health  of  Sergt.  Ralston  has  fiequendy  needed  to  be  under  a 
course  of  tonic  treatment.  Since  the  spring  it  had  improved,  but  after  our  supply  of  musk-ox  meat  had 
been  exhausted  •  it  began  to  fail. 

The  29th  of  May  my  attention  was  directly  called  to  him  for  soreness  of  the  moUth  and  gums,  com- 
plicated with  ragged  purple  patches  at  the  time,  small,  but  having  tendency  to  enlarge;  the  functions  of  the 
digestive  organs  were  below  par,  and  the  bowels  were  relaxed.  Out  of  door  exercise  of  any  length  caused 
exhaustion. 

My  diagnosis  in  this  case  is  anccmia  [anaimia]  find  general  debility,  verging  on  scurvy,  with  slight  pre 
monitory  symptoms  of  the  tlisease. 

He  has  been  i)ul  under  anil  [an]  internal  treatment  of  iron  and  (piinia  [{piininc],  with  local  washes  of 
sulphate  of  zinc.  A  daily  allowance  of  fresh  musk  ox  meat  (reserved  for  the  sick)  has  been  issued  to  him, 
and  out  door  exercise  prescribed.     The  daily  dose  of  lime  juice,  1  ounce,  has  not  been  increased. 

At  this  <late,  I  already  see  an  improvement  in  the  state  of  his  health.  Ralston,  with  Linn  and  Biedcrbirk, 
is  among  the  men,  who  have  dislike  for  seal  meat. 

Private  Jiii-tkrhUk:  Tenderness  of  gums  and  soreness  of  the  pal.ite;  signs  of  anrcmic  [an.xmic]  state. 

Privare  Linn:  Has  been  under  care  for  dispepstia  [dysjiepsiaj  and  rheumatic  ])ains. 

Private  Ellis :  Was  relieved  from  duty  for  a  day.     Derangement  of  the  digestive  organs  and  bowels. 

Private  Whisler :  Relieved  from  duty  for  three  days.     Severe  case  of  snow  blindness. 

During  the  month  of  May  the  customary  dose  of  lime  juice  has  been  regularly  issued. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

Octave  Pavy, 
Actg.  Asst.  Surgeon,  U,  S.  Army. 

To  the  CoMMANDiNu  Okfickr. 


P. 

Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land,  jfuly  3d,  1883. 
Sir:  During  the  month  of  June,  the  health  of  the  command  has  been  good. 

For  several  days  during  the  month  Sergt.  Brainard  was  relieved  from  out  of  door  duty  on  account  of 
a  slight  inflammation  of  the  gums,  caused  by  the  extraction  of  a  tooth. 

Sergt.  Ralston  has  rapidly  recovered  and  at  present  his  health  is  very  good. 
The  customary  dose  of  lime  juice  has  been  regularly  issued. 
No  symptoms  of  scurvy  have  been  detected  during  the  month  of  June. 
I  wm,  sir,  respectfully  yours. 

Octave  Pavy, 
Aclg.  Asst.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  Army. 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 

*This  statement  is  inexact  and  mislcacliiig,  ami  iIdbs  not  accord  with  Dr.  Pavy's  own  words  ten  lines  later,  where  he  refers  to 
reserved  musk-ox  meat.  l)ii  May  20  a  seal  weighing  over  live  hundrcil  |K)unds  was  killed,  and  as  a  large  quantity  of  musk-ox 
nieat  was  found  tainted  inside  a.  few  days  before,  I  decided  to  issue  seal  meat,  and  reserve  musk-ox  meat,  hares,  &c.,  for  the  sick. 
Sergeant  Ralston  unfortunately  had  an  aversion  to  seal  meat.  Over  five  hundred  pounds  of  musk-ox  meat  was  obtained  May 
29,  which  enabled  me  to  issue  it  regularly.  Until  a  few  days  prior  to  the  retreat  in  August,  1883,  the  expedition  was  never 
without  musk-ox  meat. — A.  W.  Greely,  Zieul. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  J*AY  EXPEDITION. 


333 


Fort  Conukk,  Grinnell  Land,  yuly  lo,  1883. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  hiiuor  to  re  pectfully  transmit  to  you  my  yearly  report  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June 
IjothJ,  1.SH3.  During  the  months  of  July  and  A  igust,  i«Xj,  the  health  of  the  conmiand  has  generally  b«en 
good,  with  the  exceptions  of  occasional  cases  of  derangement  of  the  digestive  organs  and  signs  of  anu:mia. 
|anxmiaj. 

I'vt.  Lynn,  from  the  loth  of  July,  was  relieved  from  ordinary  duty  for  a  few  days  on  account  of  soreness 
of  one  of  his  feet,  contracted  in  walking  during  your  western  journey.  From  the  middU  ■  f  the  same 
month  I'vt.  Biederbcck  has  began  to  be  affected  with  muscular  rheumatism,  which  have  [hasj  si.ice  troublcil 
him  from  time  to  time. 

The  general  health  of  the  command  has  continued  ;o  be  good  during  September,  October,  ami 
November,  '82,  without  any  signs  of  scurvy. 

Through  December,  '82,  or  even  from  the  end  of  November,  the  appetite  has  in  many  cases  failed,  and 
symptoms  of  an  aniemic  [anxmicj  state  have  been  shown. 

Nevertheless  the  general  health  was  good. 

During  January,  '83,  the  sanitary  state  of  the  party  has  been  good,  with  the  exceptions  of  cases  ot 
impaired  appetite  and  dysiK-'psy  \sic\.  During  this  month  Hender  has  at  divers  times  been  under  my  care 
(from  the  6th  to  13th)  as  well  as  Long,  who  remained  under  treatment,  and  was  relieved  from  duty  during 
eight  days,  for  inci|)icnt,  dropsical  effusion  in  the  right  knee. 

Ill  February,  '83,  the  health  was  good,  with  the  exceptions  of  a  few  coses  of  muscular  rheumatism. 

During  Mi'.rch,  although  the  sanitary  state  of  the  party  appeareil  good,  our  jiowers  of  endurance 
compared  with  the  previous  spring  were  on  the  decrease. 

Pvt.  Lyim,  whom  I  considered  as  one  of  our  men  the  best  fitted  for  endurance,  was  obliged  to  be 
excused  from  early  sledge  work  on  account  of  rheumatism. 

Sergts.  Ralston  and  Gardiner  suffered  from  slight  tenderness  of  the  gums,  although  without  any  symptoms 
of  scurvy.  The  health  of  Ralston  has  not  been  good  during  the  whole  winter  and  spring ;  his  powers  of 
endurance  to  cold  were  below  par. 

At  the  beginning  of  March,  '83,  Copl.  Saler  fSalor]  remained  for  two  weeks  under  my  care,  being  in  a 
debilitated  state,  and  therefore  exemjited  from  any  heavy  work ;  occasionally  the  corporal  spat  \sic\  blood. 

Copl.  [Sergeant]  Elison  started  into  the  fiulil  the  loih  of  March  in  apparently  gooil  health,  but  returned 
the  14th,  in  a  state  of  debility  complicated  with  derangement  of  the  digestive  organs;  he  was  relieved  from 
duty  from  the  i  sth  to  the  2otli.  In  the  beginning  of  March  Pvt.  Long  was  exempted  from  work  for  five 
days  on  account  of  inflammation  of  the  throat. 

In  April  the  health'has  generally  been  good,  but  the  party  has  felt  at  times  the  need  of  fire  during  the 
night. 

During  the  last  part  of  May  the  health  of  the  command  was  good,  Acept  among  some  of  the  men  who 
had  dislike  for  seal  meat  and  were  in  consequence  dejirived  of  fresh  aiiiiiuil  food. 

Sergt.  Ralston  in  the  last  days  of  the  month  came  under  my  care,  being  in  an  ancemic  [anKmicJ  state 
verging  on  scurvy.  He  was  not  relieved  from  duty,  and  promptly  recovered  under  a  treatment  of  fresh 
meat  and  tonics,  without  any  addition  of  preserved  vegetables  and  lime  juice. 

In  June,  with  the  exception  of  Sergt.  Braiiiard,  who  from  the  7th  to  the  loth  has  been  relieved  from 
out  of  door  duty,  on  account  of  an  inflammation  of  the  gums,  caused  by  the  extraction  of  an  ulcerated 
tooth,  the  general  health  of  the  party  has  been  good. 

During  the  whole  of  the  winter  the  health  of  Bender  has  often  been,  as  during  the  previous  year,  bad. 
Again,  from  February  loth  to  14th,  he  had  been  dispensed  [excused]  from  duty. 

Our  experience  this  year  has  confirmed  the  generally  established  fact  that  the  powers  of  endurance  in 
high  arctic  latitudes,  decreases  for  each  successive  year. 

As  our  supply  of  preserved  vegetables  was  less  during  the  winter  of  1882-83  than  during'  the  previous 
one,  and  as  the  variety  of  uur  diet  was  also  considerably  less,  I  can  only  attribute  the  better  state  of  our 
health  this  year,  to  the  increased  rations  of  fresh  meat  and  the  suppression  of  the  injurious  emanations  of 
deleterious  gas  from  the  stove  pipes  during  the  winter  of  i882-'83. 


•A 


ill 


334 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


As  it  is  impossible  to  foretell  what  prospects  this  summer  will  bring,  I  consider  it  to  be  my  duly  to 
recommend  that  a  certain  amount  of  preserved  vegetables  should  be  kept  in  reserve.     Piuing  another 
winter,  without  an  abundant  supply  of  fresh  or  even  ilricd  musk-ox  meat,  the  prospects  of  this  command 
would  certainly  be  gloomy  and  perhaps  its  fate  disastrous. 
I  am,  sir,  respectfully  yours, 

OcTAVK  Paw, 
Actg.  Ass/.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  Army. 
To  the  Commanding  Officer. 


R. 

Fort  Congf.r,  Gr.  I  and,  Fehuary  id,  1883. 
Sir:  I  respectfully  acknowledge  t  le  receipt  of  your  letter  of  the  2d  inst.,  and  will  state  that  it  is  diffi- 
cult for  me  to  designate  the  best  men  1   r  standing  cold. 

Personally  I  know  tiiat  Sergt.  Hrainard,  Copl.  [Sergeant]  Klison,  and  Sergt.  Rice  (if  the  last  named  was 
not  of  a  rheumatic  disposition)  are  well  fitted  for  that  purpose. 

1  have  also  conlidence  in  the  power  of  endurance  of  Copl.  Saler  [Salor],  Pvts.  Lynn  and  Frederick. 
The  last  named  is,  without  being  placed  on  the  sick  list,  under  my  medical  care. 
Very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant. 

Octave  Paw, 
A.  A.  Surgeon,  If.  S.  Army. 
[•  To  the  Commanding  Officer.] 


'   I 


li     \ 


\  11 


Afedkal  report  of  Hospital  Stcivard  Bicdcrhick. 

Washington,  U.  C, /Jftrw^*-/- 8,  1884. 

Sir  :  Having  acted  as  hospital  steward  on  the  "  Lad/  Franklin  Bay  Kxpedition,"  and  being  now  onlered 
by  you  to  re|)ort  on  the  hygiene  and  care  of  the  sick  '  ■^iiig  said  expedition,  1  do  so  herewith  as  well  as  my 
limited  knowledge  will  permit. 

We  left  St.  Johns,  Newfoundland,  on  July  7,  1881,  on  the  steam  sealer  l^ota'%,  commanded  by  Capt. 
Richard  Pike,  with  a  crew  of  twenty  men.  Our  officers  and  the  sergeants  of  the  Signal  Corps  were  quartered 
in  the  cabin  of  the  ship;  also  the  captain,  mate,  first  and  second  engineers.  The  third  engineer  and  the 
ship's  cook  slept  in  a  small  addition  to  the  galley,  where  Schneider,  one  of  our  nuiiiber,  took  his  quarters, 
i'he  rest  of  the  siiii)'s  crew  and  members  of  the  expedition  slept  in  the  forecastle,  the  ship's  crew  single ;  the 
cxpetlilionary  members  by  twos. 

Dr.  Octave  Pavy  and  Mr.  Henry  Clay  joined  the  expedition  at  Ritenbenk,  Greenland,  and  also  took 
their  (luarters  in  the  cabin,  and  in  Ui)ernivik  we  were  joined  by  two  Greenlanders  hired  in  Proven  as  hun- 
ters and  dog  drivers,  who  were  quarteretl  under  the  forecastle. 

No  other  than  sea-sickness  was  experienced  on  the  voyage  excepting  on  August  3,  when  Julius  R. 
Frederick  suffered  from  an  attack  of  colic. 

Our  food  on  board  the  ship,  though  not  dainty,  was  fairly  good  and  substantial. 

Cleanlii  jss  of  body,  clothing,  and  quarters,  was  enjoined  from  the  beginning. 

We  arrivcnl  in  Discovery  Harbor,  Laily  Franklin  Hay,  latitude  81°  44'  north,  on  August  12,  and  the 
work  of  unloading  the  vessel  comnunced  at  once,  both  ship's  crew  and  members  of  the  expedition  being 
divided  into  two  parties  which  worked  alternately  four  hours  each.  The  erection  of  the  house  was  commenced 
at  once  by  the  car|)enters,  the  unloading  of  the  building  materials  taking  jilace  first.  \\y  August  18  all  our 
stores  were  landed  and  our  baggage  moved  on  shore,  where  we  pitched  tents  for  temporary  abode. 

Corporal  Starr  was  relieved  from  duty  and  ordered  back  to  Washington  August  18,  on  account  of  his 
suflering  from  asthma.  Private  Ryan  was  seized  with  an  epileptic  fit  on  August  22,  on  account  of  which  he 
also  was  ordered  to  return  to  W.ishington  by  the  JYolfus, 


'  \  \ 


♦Address  omitted  in  original. — A.  W.  G. 


THE  LADY  FHANKLIN  HAY  KXPEDITION. 


335 


By  'Xugiist  23  our  house  was  so  far  finished  that  it  permittetl  us  sheher.  Its  dimensions  were:  Length, 
65  feet  [19.8"'];  widtli,  21  feet  [6.4"'];  and  was  divided  into  two  rooms,  a  kilv  lien  and  a  small  hallway. 
t)ne  room  occupied  by  the  olVuers  asijuarters  was  about  lO  feet  [al)OUt  5'"]  by  about  n  feet  [6.4'"], and  the 
other  occupied  as  quarters  by  the  men  about  40  feet  [  i2"'l  by  about  21  feet  f6.4"'|,  the  kitchen  was  about  14 
feet  |4"'J  by  8  feet  1 2.4'"].  and  the  hallway  about  7  feet  [alunit  2'"]  by  S  feet  [2.4'"].  In  order  to  assure  warmth, 
the  liouse  was  bi'ilt  with  double  walls,  tlie  outer  one  being  covered  on  insicie  and  outside  w  ith  tar  paper. 
Metween  the  walls  was  an  empty  s|)ace  about  fifteen  inches  [about  380'""']  wide  for  the  free  circulation  of  air. 

The  officers,  Sergeant  Rice,  and  the  two  Mskiino  slept  single,  while  the  rest  slept  two  together.  The 
bunks  in  the  men's  (piarters  were  so-called  double-deckers,  two  slee|)ing  in  the  lower  and  two  in  the  upper. 
The  bedding  consisted  of  straw  sacks,  blankets,  and  a  bufValo  rolie  for  each  bed. 

During  the  winter,  ice  and  snow  walls  were  built  around  the  house,  antl  with  constant  fires  the  (luartcrs 
were  always  kept  in  a  comfortable  tem|)erature. 

Hut  little  si.itable  clothing  for  tl.at  extreme  climate  had  been  procured  in  (Greenland,  and  everybody  had 
to  be  his  own  tailor,  making  clothes  out  of  blankets,  of  which  wo  fortunately  had  a  gotnl  supply.  Our  foot- 
gear, especially,  was  extremely  sparse,  consisting  of  heavy  cork-soled  shoes — which  did  excellent  service  arounil 
the  (piarters,  keeping  the  feet  warm,  if  suitable  stockings  were  worn,  but  which  were  too  heavy  for  work 
away  from  the  station — a  small  number  of  Indian  moccasins,  ami  a  few  ("ireenland  Kskimo  boots.  We  had 
besiiles  a  number  of  seal-skin  boots,  made  by  the  ICskimo  on  the  Labrador  coast,  but  these  were  too  small, 
and  had  all  to  be  altered  before  they  were  worn.  In  order  to  su|)i)ly  this  want  of  fool-gear,  shoes  were 
improvised  out  of  heavy  canvas  and  were  worn  by  sledging  parties  in  the  sjiring  of  1882;  whereas  in  the 
spring  of  1883  heavy  German  stockings  were  soled  with  heavy  seal-skin  and  they  remlered  very  efficacious 
services. 

Our  food  was  varied  and  of  the  best,  including  in  the  canned  supplies  all  the  principal  fruits  and  vege- 
tables, which  kept  in  excellent  condition  to  t!ie  last,  and  not  enough  can  be  said  of  them  in  |)raise. 

During  our  two  years'  sojourn  at  l''ort  Conger  103  musk-oxen  and  tpiite  a  quantity  of  smaller  game,  such 
as  ducks,  geese,  hares,  \:c.,  were  killed,  the  fresh  meat  of  which,  in  c:onjunction  wild  the  varietl  kinds  of  canned 
vegetables  and  fruits,  was  at  all  times  conducive  to  preserve  the  health  of  the  party,  as  was  the  case  at  our 
station  during  the  entire  two  years. 

During  the  spring  and  summer  months  the  party  passed  most  of  their  time  out  of  doors,  those  not 
exploring  doing  light  work  around  the  house,  hunting  and  botanizing;  while  for  the  winter  months  an  order 
was  issueil  that  everybody  had  to  take  at  least  one  hour  of  outdoor  exercise  daily,  and  no  man  was  allowed 
to  occupy  his  bed  between  the  hours  of  breakfast  aiul  dinner,  exce|)ting  the  observers  on  night  duty,  this  oider 
being  adhered  to  during  both  winters. 

Maths  were  used  freely,  at  least  one  a  week  l)eing  reipiired. 

Our  amusements  were  varied.  \Ve  had  an  excellent  library,  and  the  gieater  part  of  our  spaie  lime  was 
passeil  in  reading.  (.James  of  earils,  chess,  checkers,  dominoes,  vvc,  were  iiululged  in.  In  November,  1881, 
a  small  bi-moiillily  newspaper,  the  "Antic  Moon,"  was  started,  but  the  interest  in  it  lessened  considerably 
after  a  few  months'  existence,  and  its  issue  was  distontinued.  A  few  jirivate  theatricals  were  also  indulged 
in,  but,  as  tiie  talent  among  us  for  such  enteitaininents  was  very  limited,  interest  in  these  was  soon  lost. 
Lieutenants  Oreely  and  Lockwood,  Dr.  I'avy,  and  Sergeant  Israel  delivered  interesting  lectures.  Lieutenant 
(ireely  es|)ecially  persisted  in  his  elVorts  to  entertain  and  amuse  his  party  during  the  long  arctic  nights,  when, 
perchan<;e,  one  or  more  would  show  signs  of  depressed  spirits. 

A  ration  of  one-half  gill  of  rum  was  issued  to  each  man  every  Sunday  evening,  and  an  extra  allowance 
for  holidays  and  the  birthday  of  eadi  individual.  Only  little  lit|uor  was  carried  on  exploring  tii|>s,  but  that 
did  excellent  service ;  when  < oming  into  camp  cold,  tired,  and  worn  out,  a  little  liquor  would  at  once  revive 
the  spirits  and  give  aclivity  to  niiiul  and  body  and  thus  enable  us  to  change  our  foot-gear,  a  precaution 
strictly  adhered  to,  and  to  retire  into  the  slee|)ing-liag. 

Beginning  with  August  22,  1881,  a  daily  issue  of  lime-juice  of  1  ounce  for  each  person  was  made,  which 
issue  was  kejit  up  till  our  abandoning  the  station  on  August  9,  1883. 

The  sjjirits  of  the  party  during  the  dark  winter  months  were  sometimes  a  little  depressed,  but  never  very 
low.  Loss  of  ajipetite  and  a  general  feeling  of  lassitude  were  quite  common  complaints,  always  successfully 
treated  with  tincture  of  iron,  taken  after  eadi  meal,  and  an  extra  iliet  of  raw  meat.  In  some  few  instances 
extra  allowances  of  cranberry  sauce  were  also  given. 


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336 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Some  cf  the  party  suffered  extremely  from  snow-blindness  while  on  sledging  trips;  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  morphia,  2  grains  to  i  ounce  of  water,  did  very  efficacious  service  in  such  cases. 

The  general  health  of  the  party  was  very  good,  .ind  I  do  not  know  of  a  single  case  of  cold  having 
occurred.  There  were  two  or  three  very  light  attacks  of  tonsilitis.  Bender  ve  often  complained  of  pains 
in  left  side  and  chest,  always  accompanied  by  a  light  cough,  and  in  a  couple  of  .nstances  he  even  spit  blood 
and  was  very  feverish. 

Two  cases  of  simple  fracture  occurred.  On  November  30, 1881 ,  Gardiner  broke  his  left  leg  while  going 
to  the  tide-gauge  for  an  observation,  and  on  December  13,  1881,  Rice  fractured  his  left  shoulder  by  falling 
against  a  projecting  piece  of  hummocky  ice  while  searching  for  Jens  Edwards,  the  Esquimo,  who  had  in 
his  depression  of  spirits  taken  it  into  his  head  to  desert  and  had  wandered  away  into  the  dark,  dreary  arctic 
night  to  seek  his  death.     Both  cases  were  bandaged  by  Dr.  Pavy  and  recovered  rapidly. 

Frost-bites  occurred  frequently,  but  were  mostly  very  slight  ones.  The  nose  being  the  organ  most 
exposed  suffered  most  frequently,  the  fingers  and  feet  next,  but  none  need  special  mentioning  except  the 
few  cases  enumerated  hereafter.  On  November  8,  1881,  I  froze  my  right  foot  while  crossing  St.  Patrick 
Bay,  returning  from  Cape  Beechey ;  the  tide  overran  the  ice-foot  and  our  feet  got  wet.  The  great  toe 
especially  was  much  injured,  but  got  well  without  needing  amputation,  which  was  feared  at  first.  Sergeant 
Brainard,  Corporal  Salor,  and  Private  Connell  also  froze  their  feet  slightly  on  the  same  trip.  On  March 
28,  1882,  Ellis  returned  from  Cape  Beechey  with  both  feet  frost-bitten,  but  recovered  soon.  On  April  8, 
1882,  Connell  froze  his  right  foot  in  the  sleeping-bag,  while  on  northern  journey,  and  had  to  return  in  con- 
sequence to  the  station. 

Whisler  came  near  freezing  on  December  13,  i88i ;  he  had  gone  out  after  the  runaway  Eskimo,  with 
insufficient  clothing,  and  got  so  chilled  that  he  partly  lost  his  consciousness.  Rice  had  a  hard  time  to  bring 
him  back  to  the  station,  where  he  arrived  stiff  and  unable  to  move,  but  was  around  again  in  a  few  hours, 
uninjured. 

Toothache  was  a  common  complaint,  and  several  teeth  had  to  be  drawn  frcm  different  members. 
Rice,  who  had  been  to  Lincoln  Bay  with  Dr.  Pavy,  carrying  packs,  was  suffering  from  inflammatory 
rheumatism  and  was  unable  to  return  to  the  station.  He  managed  with  difficulty  to  reach  St.  Patrick  Bay, 
from  whence  the  doctor  came  home  to  the  station  for  aid  on  September  9,  1881.  A  party  of  five  started 
first,  but  as  they  were  unable  to  carry  Rice  up  the  steep  hill  which  borders  the  southwest  shore  of  St. 
Patrick  Bay,  more  help  was  sent  for,  and  then  he  was  carried  up  the  hill  and  there  placed  on  a  sledge  and 
carefully  removed  to  the  station,  where  he  recovered  in  a  few  days. 

In  July,  1883,  I  suffered  greatly  from  rheumatism,  and  had  to  go  to  bed  on  the  20th  and  remain  there 
for  a  few  days.  My  right  knee  was  very  much  swollen  and  I  felt  pain  in  all  my  limbs;  I  had  been  suffering 
somewhat  since  July,  1882.  I  recovered  so  much  that  I  was  able  to  walk  with  the  aid  of  a  stick  by  August 
9,  the  daiC  on  which  we  started  on  the  retreat;  after  that  I  steadily  imp:oved,  but  the  rheumatism  never 
entirely  left  me.  Lieutenant  Greely,  Sergeant  Linn,  and  Privates  Connell  and  Henry,  also  suffered  at  dif- 
ferent times  from  rheumatism. 

Other  complaints  during  our  sojourn  at  Fort  Conger  were:  September  16,  1881,  Lieutenant  Greely 
started  for  the  L'nited  States  Range,  but  had  to  return  on  account  of  pain  in  his  injured  knee.  November  10, 
1 88 1,  Sergeant  Elison  burned  his  face  with  i;,«oline  while  filling  a  lamp.  January  6,  1882,  Sergeant  Elisonhad 
a  boil  on  his  neck.  March  15,  1882,  Schneider  cx)mplained  of  pain  in  his  knees  while  crossing  the  straits  and 
had  to  return  to  Cape  Beechey,  where  his  knees  and  face  were  found  to  be  swollen  and  his  gums  were  red 
and  spongy;  but  he  got  well  when  we  reached  Fort  Conger,  a  few  days  after.  April  10,  1882,  I  was  struck 
in  the  right  side  with  a  tent  pole,  while  trying  to  pitch  a  tent  in  Newman  Bay,  and  suffered  much  pain.  I 
suffered  from  retention  of  urine  during  the  night,  on  account  of  which  I  was  ordered  back  to  Fort  Conger. 
On  my  way  back  I  suffered  from  incontinence  of  urine.  Whisler  at  the  same  time  complained  of  pains  in 
liis  chest  and  had  also  to  return  to  the  station.  On  July  i,  1882,  while  in  the  interior  of  Grinnell  Land  with 
Lieutenant  Greely,  I  suffered  from  a  bilious  headache  and  vomiting  and  had  to  return  to  the  station.  July 
19,  1882,  Lieutenant  Greely  was  sick  in  the  stomach.  March  8,  1883,  Linn  complained  of  rheumatism  and 
general  weariness,  March  15,  1883,  Sergeant  Elison  returned  from  Wrangel  Bay  on  account  of  sickness  in 
stomach.     May  3,  1883,  Schneider  sprained  his  right  foot  slightly. 

We  abantioned  our  station  at  Fort  ("onger  on  August  9,  1883.  We  had  a  steam-launch  and  three 
small  boats  besides  a  little  dingey.  We  carried  about  sixty  days'  provisions  and  our  sleeping  gear — the 
latter  consisting  of  four  single  dog-skin,  and  the  remainder  of  three-men  buffalo-robe  sleeping-bags.     The 


THE  LADT  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


337 


officers  were  allowed  sixteen  pounds  each  and  the  men  eight  pounds  each  of  extra  clothing.  During  the 
retreat  we  spread  our  sleeping-bags  over  the  oars  laid  lengthwise  in  the  boats,  excepting  a  few  times  when 
we  slept  on  shore  and  on  the  ice.  On  August  26  we  were  beset  in  the  ice,  and  on  September  10  we  aban- 
doned the  steam-launch  and  one  of  the  boats;  the  dingey  had  been  cut  uj)  and  used  for  fuel  during  the 
retreat.  On  September  12  we  abandoned  another  boat  and  tried  to  reach  Cape  Sabine  over  the  ice,  carry- 
ing one  boat  on  the  sledge,  but  the  next  night  a  heavy  wind  from  the  southwest  broke  up  the  ice  ami  we 
drifted  into  the  straits  on  the  piece  of  ice  on  which  we  »vcre  encamped.  We  made  several  hard  attempts 
to  reach  land  but  were  unsuccessful,  till  we  fortunately  drifted  into  Baird  Inlet  on  September  27,  against  a 
high  southwest  gale,  and  >ve  succeeded  in  making  land  on  September  29,  on  north  side  of  Haird  Inlet. 

During  our  drift  in  Smith  Sound  a  good  many  of  us  suflTered  from  diarrhea,  probal)ly  caused  by  txpos- 
ure  and  eating  fatty  substances,  as  seal  blubber,  and  from  the  use  of  salt  water  in  cooking. 

Sergeant  Cross  froze  his  left  foot  while  camping  on  the  floe,  and  Gardiner  suflfered  with  a  falon  on  the 
first  finger  of  the  left  hand.  Both  cases  remained  sore  till  the  death  of  the  respective  patients  in  January 
and  June,  respectively. 

At  the  time  we  abanddhed  the  launch  we  made  a  shelter  out  of  the  sails,  in  the  fashion  of  an  Indian 
"  tepee,"  using  the  oars  as  poles,  and  as  soon  as  we  landed  we  commenced  at  once  the  building  of  stone  huts 
for  winter  quarters.  Rice  and  Jens  went  to  Cape  Sabine  to  see  what  supplies  had  been  left  at  that  place 
for  us.  They  returned  on  the  9th  day  of  October  with  the  good  news  that  there  was  a  cache  of  240  rations 
left  by  Mr.  Beebe  in  1882,  and  another  cache  of  240  rations  left  by  Sir  George  Nares  in  1875,  besides  about 
500  rations  of  bread  and  a  small  quantity  of  canned  mutton,  lard,  vegetables,  raisins,  rice,  and  about  sixty 
pounds  of  tea  left  by  Lieutenant  Garlington  and  party  after  the  sinking  of  the  Proteus  in  July,  1883.  We 
had  at  this  time  about  ten  days'  rations  left,  and  there  was  no  possible  chance  of  crossing  over  to  Littleton 
Island,  as  young  ice  was  already  forming  in  some  places  along  the  shore,  and  the  ice  in  the  middle  of  the 
channel  was  running  so  fast  that  it  dispelled  all  thoughts  of  crossing  through  it.  We  had  besides  only  one 
boat,  which  was  insufficient  to  hold  the  whole  party  in  untiuiet  waters.  Our  rations  hud  been  reduced  for 
some  time,  and  this  with  the  exposure  and  hard  labor  had  reduced  oui  strength  considerably. 

Rice  and  the  Eskimo,  Christiansen,  made  also  a  trip  to  Cape  Isabella,  but  found  there  only  144  pounds 
of  beef  left  by  Sir  (ieorge  Nares,  in  1875. 

As  it  was  easier  to  move  our  few  rations  and  our  sleeping  gear  and  the  records  of  the  expedition  to 
Cape  Sabine  than  to  bring  the  articles  from  there  to  our  camp,  we  abandoned  our  partly  completed  huts  on 
October  12  and  reached  the  little  cove  where  the  cache  from  the  wrecked  Frotcus  was,  about  midway 
between  Cape  Sabine  and  Cocked  Hat  Island,  on  October  15.  We  commenced  at  once  the  building  of  a  hut 
for  winter  (juarters,  occupying  at  first  a  shelter  built  of  snow  blocks  and  covered  with  canvas.  The  hut  was 
built  with  a  wall  of  rocks  4  feet  high  [i.2"'j  and  covered  with  the  boat  laid  lengthwise  over  in  the  center, 
and  canvas  stretched  over  them.  Around  the  wall  of  rocks  we  built  another  one  of  snow  blocks,  leaving  a 
space  between  the  two  of  several  feet,  which  was  filled  up  with  loose  snow.  Later  the  fall  and  drift  of  snow 
covered  the  whole  hut  and  so  excluded  all  draft.  For  a  door  we  used  a  piece  of  tarpaulin  Si  tched  over  a 
wooden  frame.  From  the  door  we  built  a  long  passage  of  snow  blocks,  in  front  of  whicii  we  stretched  a 
piece  of  sail.  A  hole  was  cut  through  the  top  of  the  boat  and  a  small  chimney  improvised  out  of  empty 
tin  cans;  but  this  was  kept  closed  except  during  the  hours  of  cooking.  Th  hut  was  25  feet  [7.6'"]  long 
and  18  feet  [5.5'"]  wide.  We  slept  with  our  heads  to  the  walls,  and  in  the  miudle  was  a  passage  also  used 
for  cooking,  &c. 

By  November  i  all  the  stores  fiom  the  different  caches  had  l)een  brought  to  our  cp.mp,  and  as  there 
was  no  fOrther  manual  labor  of  any  moment  to  be  j)erfonned,  our  rations  were  reduceil  to  four  ounces 
of  meat,  six  ounces  of  bread,  and  a  small  cpiantity  of  vegetables  and  butter.  These  rations  remained 
the  same,  with  very  little  change,  till  the  first  of  March.  It  was  so  managed  that  we  had  at  least  a  little  the 
better  meal  Sundays.  On  Thanksgiving  and  Christmas  days  we  had  the  little  rice  that  was  found  in  the 
cache  of  the  wreck  boiled,  together  with  some  raisins  and  a  little  milk  and  lard,  as  an  extra  meal.  After 
March  i  our  rations  were  still  further  decreased,  the  vegetables,  butter,  &c.,  having  been  used  up  before  that 
date.  On  April  the  nth  a  small  bear,  and  on  the  13th a  seal,  was  killed,  which  gave  a  little  increase  for  a 
few  days.  Later,  when  all  our  sup|)lies  were  exhausted  and  no  game  came  in,  we  were  forced  to  cat  our 
seal-skin  lashings,  boots  and  clothing,  and  coverings  from  sleeping-bags.  The  lashings  and  tanned  leather 
were  eaten  boiled,  while  the  hairy  clothing  was  roasted  over  the  coals.  Slirimps,  or  rather  sea-lice,  were 
H.  Mis.  393 22 


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1    ' 

Ijiffilj 


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U  ii' 


338 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAT  EXPEDITION. 


caught  in  little  nets  and  helped  greatly  to  feed  lis.  Sea-kelp  and  a  little  saxifrage  formed  also  articles  of 
food.  During  the  latter  part  of  May,  and  during  June,  we  gathered  rock  lichens  {/ri^e  dc  roc/w)  and  ate 
them,  mostly  boiled,  but  some  were  eaten  raw.  They  were  to  our  palates  good  tasting,  but  caused  in  the 
beginning  a  little  diarrhea.  The  small  allowance  of  food  and  the  insufficient  protection  against  the  cold 
and  dampness  told  at  once  on  the  party.  Their  spirits  were  remarkably  good,  considering  the  circumstances, 
and  only  in  a  very  few  cases  became  dejected  and  sad.  But  notwithstanding  their  good  nature  some  one 
or  the  other  would  at  times  become  irritable  and  unreasonable,  but  generally  be  penitent  shortly  after. 

Sergeant  Cross  died  January  i8,  1883,  at  1.45  p.  m..  from  scurvy  and  dropsical  effusion  of  the  heart.  He 
had  been  complaining  some  time  previous,  but  his  case  took  a  more  serious  turn  only  a  few  days  before  his 
death.  The  death  of  Cross  had  a  somewhat  depressing  influence  on  some  of  the  party,  as  Lieutenant 
Lockwood,  Sergeants  Linn  and  Jewell,  and  Private  Ellis,  all  of  whom  showed  slight  sigirs  of  .scurvy,  and 
daily  needed  the  help  of  Dr.  Pavy  and  the  rest  of  us  to  keep  them  up.  The  weakness  of  body  showed 
itself  also  in  mind,  some  of  the  party  being  at  times  very  petulant  and  childish. 

On  March  24,  while  cooking  some  tea  over  an  alcohol  lamp,  we  omitted  to  draw  out  the  plug  that 
filled  up  the  chimney  through  the  boat,  the  only  place  for  ventilation  in  our  hut,  and  the  impurity  of  the  air 
caused  by  unburned  carbon,  produced  asphyxia  in  some  of  us;  others  felt  extremely  unwell,  but  only  partly 
lost  their  consciousness.  As  soon  as  this  state  of  affairs  was  noticed,  the  plug  was  drawn  out  and  a  rush 
was  made  for  the  door  to  get  fresh  air  and  some  fainting  outside  came  near  freezing.  Israel  and  myself 
fainted  first,  and  only  for  the  help  of  those  that  kept  their  consciousness,  who  helped  to  bring  in  those  out  of 
the  cold  and  revived  those  inside,  a  number  would  undoubtedly  have  perished.  Ur.  Pavy,  fortunately,  was 
one  of  those  that  kept  the  power  of  their  senses  and  materially  aided  the  sick.  Lieutenant  Greely  while 
fainting  oustide  froze  his  hands  quite  severely.  It  was  during  these  terrible  hours  that  Private  Henry  was 
first  seen  stealing  the  rations,  for  the  repetition  of  which  crime  later  he  was  executed. 

The  Eskimo,  Christiansen,  died  at  9  a.  m.  on  Apiil  5,  from  exhaustion,  He  also  showed  signs  of 
scurvy.     Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Sergeants  Jewell  and  Linn  were  very  weak  at  this  time. 

Sergeant  Linn  died  on  April  6,  about  7  p.  m. ;  and  Lieutenant  Lockwood  April  9,  at  4.20  p.  m. ;  both 
from  exhaustion  caused  by  insufficient  nutriment.  Rice  died  on  April  9,  about  7.40  p.  m.,  in  liaird  Inlet, 
where  he  had  gone  in  company  with  Julius  R.  Frederick  to  recover  the  English  meat  abandoned  there  in 
the  fall  previous;  Jewell  died  April  12;  Ellis  died  May  19;  Ralston,  May  23;  VVhisler,  May  24;  Israel, 
May  27,  about  3  p.  m.;  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  June  i ;  Bender  on  June  6,  at  5.45  p.  m.;  Dr.  Pavy,  June  6, 
at  6  p.  m.;  all  from  weakness  caused  by  insufficiency  of  food. 

Private  Henry  was  shot  by  order  of  Lieutenant  Greely  for  persistently  stealing  food. 

Sergeant  Gardiner  died  June  12,  at  5  p.  m.,  ixqfa  weakness;  his  death  was  hastened  by  inflammation  of 
the  bowels.    Schneider  died  June  18  ;  he  showed  strong  signs  of  scurvy. 

Eskimo  Jens  was  drowned  while  out  hunting  on  April  30,  1884. 

The  date  of  death  of  Corporal  Nicholas  Salor,*  who  also  died  of  weakness  caused  by  insufficient  nour- 
inent,  is  not  recorded  in  my  diary. 

Sergeant  Elison  died  on  July  8,  at  3  a.  m.,  on  the  U.  S.  Steamship  Bear,  in  Disco  Harbor,  Godhavn, 
Greenland.  Sergeant  Elison  started  early  in  November,  1883,  in  company  with  Sergeants  Rice  and  Linn 
and  Private  Frederick,  for  Cape  Isabella  to  bring  the  144  pounds  of  meat  left  there  by  Sir  George  Nares  in 
1875.  On  this  trip  he  froze  his  feet  and  hands,  and  was  brought  into  camp  about  November  11  in  a  very 
bad  condition.  His  feet  were  frozen  up  above  the  ankle,  and  both  hands  and  his  nose  were  also  frozen. 
There  was  at  first  little  hope  of  his  recovery,  but  with  assiduous  care  and  by  giving  him  from  our  allowances, 
pitiful  as  they  were,  extra  food,  his  vigorous  nature  improved  remarkably,  considering  the  poor  quarters  we 
could,  with  the  best  will,  give  him.  The  hut  dark,  cold,  damp,  and  poorly  ventilated,  was  but  a  pitiful 
hospital.  Were  a  drop  of  water  spilled  on  the  blankets,  it  would  freeze  at  once,  making  a  not  very  inviting 
sick-bed ;  besides,  this  patient  suflered  during  the  first  few  months  after  his  mishap  considerably  from  incon- 
tinence of  urine.  The  extract  of  beef  taken  with  us  in  the  medical  stores,  besides  a  few  cans  of  condensed 
milk,  were  set  aside  for  his  sole  u.se;  besides,  the  commanding  officer  in  consultation  with  Dr.  Pavy  would  fix, 
from  time  to  time,  the  extra  amount  of  food  to  be  given  him;  this  varied  according  to  the  state  of  the  patient 
and  the  amount  and  kind  of  provision  on  hand.  As  we  could  not  attempt  an  amputation,  owing  to  our 
poor  facilities  and  the  want  of  instruments,  we  had  to  allow  the  diseased  parts  to  slough  off,  helping  as  much 


♦Salor  died  June  3,  1884.— A.  W.  G. 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  KXIMODITION. 


339 


as  possible  with  a  pair  of  small  scissors  and  a  small  scalpel.  The  wounds  were  dressed  daily  with  vaseline 
at  first,  and  later,  when  our  limited  supply  of  it  was  exhausted,  with  lard  mixe<l  with  a  litUe  salicylic  acid. 
As  we  had  but  a  very  limited  amount  of  lint  and  bandages,  I  had  to  take  the  fio/en  underclothinj;  out  of 
the  wreck  cache,  thaw  them  in  the  sleejjing-baj;  and  on  my  cliest,  and  im|)rovise  dressing  material  out  of 
the  same.  On  June  22,  the  day  of  our  rescue,  Elison  was  yet  lying  helpless  on  his  mattress;  his  feet  had 
both  sloughed  off  through  the  ankle  joint  and  his  fingers  were  dried  u|)  with  the  exception  of  one,  which 
had  been  taken  off. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

Henrv  Hiei>i;riiick, 
First  Lieut.  A.  W.  Grf,ki-v.  Jlospital  Steward,  U.  S.  A. 

Fifth  Cavahy,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


I  :!hf 


:  f.  -it. 


of 


lAciilcnanl  Grccly^s  supplementary  report  on  hygiene. 

The  monthly  and  annual  reports  of  Acting  Assistant  S'>i);i.on  O.  I'avy,  the  surgeon  of  the  expedition, 
are  appended  in  full  (pages  324  to  334). 

Five  weeks  were  occupied  by  the  surgeon  in  making  the  first  annual  report  and  ten  days  the  second. 
These  reports  were  recjuired  in  order  that  the  subject  of  health  should  be  treated  generally  and  fully,  while 
there  was  ample  time  and  the  data  at  hand,  and  in  order  that  in  case  of  disaster  our  experiences  might  be 
on  record  for  the  benefit  of  others. 

However  meager  are  these  reports  they  could  not  have  been  made  more  complete  had  the  surgeon 
lived,  except  from  memory,  for  his  diary  contains  absolutely  no  medical  notes  or  data  apart  from  that  con- 
tained in  these  monthly  and  annual  communications. 

Since  the  return  of  the  expedition,  Hospital  Steward  Henry  Biederbick,  a  very  faithful  and  devoted  non- 
commissioned officer,  has  rendered  a  report  covering  his  knowledge  of  the  health  condition  of  the  party.  It 
is  given  in  full  (pages  334  to  339). 

To  these  reports  I  deem  it  necessary  to  add,  in  consequence  of  repeated  inquiries  from  medical  men 
and  others,  a  record  of  such  hygienic  precautions  and  preventives  as  fell  within  my  own  action  and  province. 
In  so  doing  few  if  any  references  can  be  made  to  strictly  medical  matters,  as  I  am  not  competent  to  pass 
judgment  thereon. 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  Dr.  Pavy  was  .in  Greenland  when  the  expedition  was  fitted  out.  In 
consetjuence  it  became  necessary  for  me  to  arrange  the  quarters,  clothing,  medical  stores,  provisions,  ami 
general  outfit.  For  the  manner  in  which  the  expedition  was  fed,  clothed,  housed,  and  lived  generally  at 
Fort  Conger,  be  it  good  or  bad,  I  am  alone  responsible. 

The  limited  appropriation,  the  very  few  days  allowed  for  estimates,  and  the  brief  time  elapsing  between 
the  order  for  the  expedition  and  the  date  of  its  sailing,  interfered  with  the  completeness  of  the  outfit,  but 
fortunately,  as  it  proved,  to  no  injurious  extent. 

In  regard  to  the  medical  supplies,  the  commanding  officer  being  entirely  ignorant  of  what  was  needed, 
the  quantity,  (luality,  and  character  of  them  was  left  to  the  Medical  Department,  United  States  Army,  which 
acted  with  liberality,  if  not  indeed  with  judgment. 

Dr.  Pavy,  however,  made  an  official  statement  that  the  selection  was  discreditable  to  the  Medical 
Department,  and  that  even  the  simplest  and  most  indispensable  drugs  were  wanting.  He  repeated  this 
statement  in  a  more  guarded  form  in  his  report  dated  October  6,  1882,  saying  that  his  stock  of  medicines 
was  "  very  incomplete  and  even  absolutely  deficient  in  essential  drugs." 

He  was  requested  to  mention  such  deficient  drugs  as  were  actually  needed  in  practice  any  month. 
Cod  liver  oil  and  digitalis  were  the  only  medicines  ever  specially  mentioned  as  needed.* 


*To  meet  the  want  of  cod  liver  oil  the  entire  Stock  of  olive  oil  was  placed  at  the  surgeon's  dispo^iil,  and  a  small  part  of  it 
was  used  medicinally. 


'i! 


310 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Ml- 


:1.  : 


ii 


i  ! 


These  deficiencies,  at  all  events,  proved  practically  immaterial,  as  the  expedition  enjoyed  such  health 
that  every  man  but  one  (who  is  yet  living)  was  for  full  duty  on  leaving   Fort  Conger,  August  9,  1883. 

The  clothing  for  the  expedition  was  largely  of  the  kind  issued  to  the  Army  by  the  Quartermaster's 
Department,  which  was  supplemented  by  purchases  of  thick  underclothing  at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland.  The 
foot-gear  proved  insufficient  in  (juantity.  Sergeant  Rice  was  sent  into  Canada  for  an  exjjected  su[)ply  of 
moccasins  which  I  had  written  for,  but  failed  to  obtain.  Later  all  possible  skin  boots  and  clothing — no  large 
amount,  however — were  purchased  in  (Ireenland,  but  a  large  (luantity  could  not  be  obtained  without  a  much 
longer  stay  than  it  was  possible  to  make. 

When  foot-gear  for  field  work  became  scarce.  Sergeant  Frederick  succeeded  in  making  from  oosook 
skins,  that  I  had  purchased  in  Greenland,  skin  boots  which  answered  the  purpose  admirably. 

No  i)erson,  however,  suffered  from  lack  of  clothing  at  Fort  Conger  or  during  any  of  the  various  sledg- 
ing expeditions,  a  conclusive  proof  that  skin  garments  and  Kskimo  clothing  are  not  essential  to  safety,  if 
indeed  to  comfort,  in  Arctic  travel. 

The  comparative  value  of  woolen  and  skin  garments  was  acknowledged  to  be  a  mooted  question,  but 
far  the  greater  number  of  the  expedition  found  woolen  garments  the  best  for  general  use,  as  skin  garments, 
easily  wet  by  persi)iration,  were  dried  only  witii  difficulty  by  the  heat  of  the  body  at  a  great  draught  on  the 
vital  energies,  and  with  great  discomfort. 

The  (juarters  provided  for  occupancy  consisted  of  a  wooden  building,  which  was  originally  planned  to 
be  68  feet  |.!0.7"'J  by  18  feet  [5.5'"]  in  the  clear,  but  the  loss  of  a  portion  of  the  lumber,  which  carried  as  a 
deck  load  was  more  or  less  broken,  compelled  the  shortening  of  the  building  about  3  feet  [.9'"].  The  lost 
space  was  taken  from  the  officers'  room,  which,  in  the  nortii  or  coldest  end  of  the  building,  was  about  18 
feet  [5.5'"]  scjuare.  The  men  occupied  at  the' southern  end  of  the  building  a  space  about  40  feet  [i2"'J  by  18 
feet  [5.5'"]  in  the  clear,  leaving  a  kitchen  9  feet  [^.7'"]  by  12  feet  [3.7'"],  and  an  entry  into  which  opened 
four  doors  from  kitchen,  officers'  room,  men's  quarters,  and  the  outer  door  (facing  west). 

On  the  north  and  south  ends  of  the  building  were  additions  or  han-los,  20  feet  f6"']  by  10  feet  [3'"]  in 
size,  which  communicated  by  a  door,  in  the  center  of  the  north  and  south  ends,  with  the  quarters  of  officers 
and  men,  respectively,  and  also  had  doors  opening  outwards. 

To  suit  the  peculiar  climate  the  building  was  double,  with  an  air  space  of  14  inches  [356™"']  between 
the  inner  and  outer  walls.  The  outer  walls  and  roof  were  simply  rough  inch  boards  laid  as  closely  together 
as  possible,  and  covered  with  thick  tarred  paper  which  was  secured  by  battens  nailed  over  the  joints.  (The 
black  tarred  paper  absorbed  much  heat  during  the  presence  of  the  sun,  and  contributed  not  inconsiderably 
to  comfortable  inside  temperatures  during  several  months.)  Thinner  tarred  paper  was  tacked  against  the 
inside  studding,  before  the  inside  wall  of  tongued  and  grooved  boards  was  put  on.  The  lumber  being 
slightly  damp  when  used  shrunk  some  the  second  year,  when  the  cracks  were  papered  over. 

The  floor  and  ceiling,  of  single  inch  boards,  were  also  tongued  and  grooved,  so  that  they  were  almost 
air-tight  the  first  winter,  but  were  more  open  the  second. 

The  rooms  had  a  studding  of  8  feet  [2.4"'],  and  trap-door  ventilators  opened  into  the  garret,  which, 
formed  by  the  pointed  roofs  and  containing  over  half  as  much  space  as  the  lower  story,  afforded  excellent 
opportunity  for  storing  such  articles  as  would  deteriorate  too  much  from  exposure  to  extreme  cold. 

In  winter  the  outer  doors  of  the  lean-tos  were  closed,  the  whole  house  banked  almost  to  the  roof 
(entirely  so  the  second  year)  with  snow  and  ice,  while  all  entrance  and  exit  was  through  the  west  door. 
Over  the  western  entrance  was  also  erected  the  second  winter  a  large  lean-to  covered  with  canvas,  in  which 
was  stored  a  supply  of  fuel  each  week. 

In  winter  the  doors  and  windows  were  double  with  ample  air  sj)aces  between,  and  close  shutters  were 
also  affixed  outside  the  latter. 

Eighteen  of  the  men  occupied  double-tier  bunks,  two  men  sleeping  in  each  bunk,  excepting  the  Eskimo, 
who  had  single  bunks,  while  the  astronomer,  photographer,  and  a  meteorological  observer  had  their  (juar- 
ters  in  a  corner  of  the  men's  room,  where  chronometers,  chronograph,  barometer,  and  other  scientific  instru- 
ments were  in  position.     Generally  the  bunks  were  movable. 

The  men  were  amply  provided  with  blankets,  buffalo  robes,  buffalo  overcoats,  and  slept  on  mattresses 
filled  with  straw  or  excelsior. 

The  four  officers  occupied  the  one  room,  which  .served  both  as  dining  and  sleeping  apartment. 


TDE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


341 


The  quarters  were  heated  by  three  stoves  (counting  the  cooking  range),  one  in  each  apartment.  The 
chimneys  were  made  of  double  terra-cotta  pipe,  the  smoke  passing  into  a  6-inch  [152"""]  joint  which  was 
built  up  inside  a  12-inch  [305"""]  one.  This  plan  not  only  tended  to  guard  against  fire  by  lowering  the 
temperature  of  the  chimney  adjacent  to  wood  work,  but  als  >  by  leaving  an  air  space,  which  had  an  aper- 
ture into  the  rooms,  facilitated  ventilation  of  the  separate  rooms  to  a  considerable  extent. 

The  stoves  provided  were  not  suited  to  burn  Cape  lireton  coal,  and  they  gave  much  trouble  at  times 
with  gas  and  smoke,  and  never  gave  out  heat  commensurate  with  fuel  consumed.  As  there  was  no  money 
to  ])urchase  heating  stoves  these  had  to  be  taken.  The  cooking  range,  however,  was  an  excellent  one,  fully 
provided  with  furniture  and  well  adapted  to  our  needs. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  an  e(iuable  temperature  could  not  be  maintained  throughout  the  entire 
room,  such  conditions  being  almost  impracticable  under  most  favorable  circumstances  in  lower  latitudes. 

For  nine  months  in  the  year  water  froze  on  the  floor,  and  it  is  probable  that  the  average  temperature 
at  one's  head  was  not  far  from  80°  (76.7°  C). 

The  readings  of  the  attached  thermometer  of  the  barometer,  3  feet  [.9"']  above  the  floor,  show  how 
remarkably  equable  for  an  arctic  house  the  temperature  was.  The  first  ten  tlays  of  February,  1882,  the 
mean  temperature  of  the  outside  air  was  —51.6°  (—46.4°  C),  while  the  mean  temperature  by  the  attached 
thermometer  in  the  men's  room  was  -f  50.1°  (10.1°  C),  a  difference  of  101,7°  (S^-S"  ^■)'  ^''*^  mean  inside 
tem|)erature  from  7  a.  m.  to  1 1  p.  m.  for  that  time  was  52.4°  [1 1.3°  C],  and  from  1 1  p.  m.  to  7  a.  m.,  45.2° 
[7.3°  C],  the  coldest  night  being  42.5°  [5.8°  C.j.  The  quarters  were  therefore  fairly  if  not  well  heated,  as 
well  so  as  many  military  quarters  in  the  northern  part  of  the  United  States  during  winter  months. 

During  April  and  May,  1883,  it  became  necessary,  on  account  of  scarcity  of  fuel,  to  allow  the  fires  to 
die  down  after  9  p.  m.,  and  for  several  weeks  the  mean  temperature  at  night  was  at  or  slightly  below  the 
freezing  point,  and  on  one  occasion  a  single  temperature  of  22°  [—5.6°  C.J  was  noted.  These  temperatures, 
although  the  men  were  amply  supplied  with  blankets,  bufildo  sleeping-bags,  &:c.,  were  considered  by  the 
surgeon  injurious  to  the  health  of  the  men. 

In  the  men's  quarters  and  next  the  kitchen  was  built  a  bath-room,  that  was  almost  always  of  a  com- 
fortable temperature  from  two  chimneys  which  were  within  its  limits.  The  bath-room,  except  in  summer, 
was  used  for  ordinary  ablutions,  but  was  never  used  for  washing  clothes. 

It  is  thus  seen  that  the  (piarters,  for  arctic  quarters,  were  unusually  large,  well  ventilated,  and  afforded 
unequalcd  facilities  for  personal  cleanliness. 

The  cubic  air  space  per  man  was  very  high.  On  the  main  floor  the  space  measured  9,360  cubic  feet; 
the  air  spaces  between  walls,  1,592  cubic  feet;  and  the  attic  room,  5,265  cubic  feet,  aggregating  16,217 
cubic  feet,  or  649  cubic  feet  per  man.  The  almost  constant  absence  of  an  observer  raised  the  average  space 
to  675  cubic  feet,  which  the  reductions  for  the  space  occui)ied  by  the  bodies  of  the  men  and  the  various 
articles  in  quarters  could  hardly  have  brought  below  600  cubic  feet  per  man. 

The  living-room,  air  spaces  between  walls,  and  the  attic  are  included  in  this  computation,  as  they  were 
so  arranged  that  all  contributed  to  the  air  supply.     Uesides,  two  men  for  several  months  slept  in  the  attic. 

The  lean-tos,  which  aggregated  3,000  cubic  feet  of  space  (4,500  cubic  feet  the  second  winter),  have  been 
neglected  in  this  calculation,  for,  though  they  were  thrown  into  communication  with  the  living-rooms  fre- 
(juently  between  6  a.  m.  and  1 1  j).  m.,  yet  from  1 1  p.  m.  to  6  a.  m.  such  conditions  existed  but  twice  an 
hour,  when  the  observer  (piitted  and  entered  the  main  building. 

The  quarters  consequently  afibrded  600  cubic  feet  of  s|>ace  to  each  man,  which  is  the  regulation  space 
allowed  in  the  barracks  of  the  Hritish  army.  The  cubic  space  allowed  for  quarters  to  each  teaman  in  the 
British  mercantile  service  is  72  cubic  feet,  which  really  amounts  to  144  cubic  feet,  as  one-half  the  crew  is 
constantly  on  watch. 

A  minimum  of  857  cubic  feet  of  air  space  per  head,  which  has  been  assigned  by  one  authority,  has 
never  been  possible  in  an  Arctic  expedition.  The  cubic  space  on  the  living  deck  of  Arctic  ships,  given  in 
admiralty  reports,  shows  that  in  H.  M.  S.  Resohiti'  there  was  182  cubic  feet  per  man  ;  on  H,  W.'ft. Discovery^ 
216  feet;  and  H.  M.  S. ^Av/,  280  feet.  This  makes  no  allowance  for  the  greater  proportional  space  allowed 
ofticers  nor  for  the  air  displaced  by  the  men  and  their  outfits.  It  appears  that  on  the  Alert  and  JJiscotiety 
the  space  for  each  man,  after  all  deductions,  was  under  200  cubic  feet,  or  less  than  one-third  the  space  had 
at  Conger.  In  the  Swedish  Arctic  Expedition,  1872-73, the  men  on  ship-board  had  only  80  cubic  feet, and 
those  on  shore  154  cubic  feet  per  man. 


■ 


I     ;      : 


;?! 


;    !  ' ' 


t! 


i  i : 


342 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  dryness  o!  the  quarters  was  insured  by  the  air  spaces  between  the  walls  anu  oy  the  attic,  which 
served  as  a  condenser.  As  events  proved,  the  moisture  in  the  warm  air  which  ascended  into  the  attic  must 
have  largely  j)assed  out  between  the  floor  and  eaves,  for  not  more  than  sixty  to  eighty  gallons  were  precip- 
itated during  the  first  winter  (and  much  less  the  second)  in  the  shape  of  frost,  which  we  easily  removed 
before  high  temperature  came.  The  quarters  were  so  dry  that,  in  the  weekly  inspection  of  bedding  by  me, 
frost  was  found  only  on  two  occasions,  at  the  head  of  a  bed  occupied  almost  continuously  by  observers,  and 
at  the  head  of  my  own  bunk,  which  was  very  much  exposed.  Frost  occasionally  formed  in  small  quantities 
in  extremely  severe  weather  on  the  mop-boards,  caused  by  the  fact  that  turf  had  been  filled  in  at  the  bottom 
of  the  air  space  while  building. 

The  bath-room  was  always  of  a  comfortable  temperature,  .ind,  warm  water  being  plentiful,  there  was  no 
neglect  in  complying  with  my  orders  that  each  man  must  bathe  weekly.  On  the  contrary  two  baths  weekly 
were  not  infrequent,  and  one  officer  bathed  daily  for  many  months. 

The  commodious,  warm,  dry  quarters  and  excellent  bathing  accommodations  doubtless  exerted  a  bene- 
ficial influence  on  the  general  health.  It  seems  to  me  advisable,  on  the  score  of  health,  that  all  future  polar 
expeditions  should  take  temporary  (juarters,  to  be  erected  on  land. 

The  dietary  list  was  made  up  by  me  after  an  examination  of  those  of  preceding  expeditions,  particularly 
of  Nordenskitild  and  Nares.  It  was  modified  somewhat  by  my  personal  opinion  that,  while  the  diet  of  a 
man  serving  in  the  arctic  regions  should  be  enlarged  in  the  direction  of  fresh  fatty  substances,  yet  it  should 
also  include  as  far  as  possible  such  articles  as  the  men  have  regularly  eaten  in  lower  latitudes. 

In  .addition  to  the  usual  ship  stores  common  to  all  expeditions,  the  following  variety  of  other  provisions 
was  also  included.     The  amounts  given  are  weekly  allowances. 

Canned  vegetables  (tomatoes,  potatoes,  onions,  asparagus,  green  corn,  lima  beans,  carrots,  turnips, 
squash,  beets,  okra,  and  green  peas),  52  ounces.  Enough  dry  vegetables  were  taken  for  soups  to  raise,  in 
etjuivalent,  the  amount  to  56  ounces.  Canned  fish  and  shellfish  (salmon,  oysters,  clams,  shrimps,  crab  meat, 
and  lobsters),  2.8  ounces.  Soup,  5.7  ounces.  Fruits  and  berries  in  natural  juice  (apples,  peaches,  pears, 
pineapples,  gooseberries,  blueberries,  quinces,  cherries,  and  grapes),  15.7  ounces.  Cr.inberries  and  rhubarb, 
1 7.9  ounces.  Preserves  and  fruit  butters  (damsons,  ginger,  tamarinds,  marmalade,  blackberries,  peach,  plum, 
quince,  and  pear  butters),  44  ounces.  Milk,  9  ounces.  Butter,  14  ounces.  Macaroni,  2.2  ounces.  Cheese, 
2.5  ounces.  Dried  fruits  and  nuts  (dates,  prunes,  evaporated  apples,  cherries  and  peaches,  figs,  raisins, 
cocoanut,  and  brazil  nuts),  7  ounces.     Fresh  lard,  3.5  ounces.     Dried  eggs,  2.1  ounces. 

The  pickles  were  of  various  kindsj  including  a  large  quantity  of  sauerkraut,  and  the  cereals  embraced 
tapioca,  corn  starch,  oatmeal,  corn  meal,  farina,  cracked  wheat,  hominy,  and  flour. 

The  foregoing  list  shows  that  har  Uy  any  article  of  common  use  was  absent  from  our  dietary  list,  and 
so  complete  was  the  supply  that  the  hospital  stores  were  not  drawn  on  for  the  occasion.il  sick. 

A  proper  criticism  of  the  foregoing  allowance  is  that  the  vegetables  (tomatoes,  onions,  and  potatoes) 
should  have  been  increased  at  least  five  ounces  weekly,  while  rhubarb,  cranberry  sauce,  and  berries  could 
have  been  reduced  to  the  same  extent. 

In  1 88 1  I  asked  that  enough  vegetables  be  sent  me  in  1882  to  raise  the  weekly  allowance  to  63  ounces. 

My  surgeon  was  pleased  in  1881  to  commend  the  list  as  being  substantially  perfect,  and,  in  a  written 
communication  with  the  other  officers,  had  no  additions  to  make,  even  by  the  expected  steamer  of  1882, 
except  a  little  canned  poultry. 

The  return  of  three  men  in  i88r,  and  the  percentage  of  damaged  provisions  (for  which  a  liberal  allow- 
ance had  been  made)  being  very  small,  enabled  me  to  increase  to  a  considerable  extent  the  allowance  for  the 
first  year  of  vegetables  and  canned  fruits,  while  the  regulation  allowance  for  the  second  year  was  carefully 
retained  in  case — as  happened — no  visiting  steamer  reached  us  with  additional  supplies  in  1882. 

The  fixing  of  the  bill  of  fare  was  a  duty  I  deemed  so  important  that  I  retained  it  in  my  own  hands, 
except  for  perhaps  two  months,  when  absent  in  the  field  or  otherwise  pressingly  engaged,  when  it  was 
.issigned  to  the  surgeon  or  Lieutenant  Lockwood. 

The  rule  of  no  set  routine  was  followed,  and,  except  the  cook  and  myself,  no  one  knew  what  would  be 
the  dinner  for  any  day.  The  cook  w.is  frequently  changed,  monthly  as  a  rule,  which  gave  variety  to  the 
methods  in  which  the  foo'l  was  prepared.  In  fixing  the  bill  of  fare  the  cook  was  often  consulted  and  asked 
to  suggest  new  dishes  in  the  making  of  which  he  might  be  skilled. 


TOE  LAUY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXPKDITION. 


343 


Officers  and  men  ate  the  same  food,  and  only  rarely  did  any  delicacy  appear  on  our  table  which  the 
men  did  not  share.  A  considerable  stock  of  delicacies  had  been  selected  originally  by  me  for  the  officers' 
mess,  but  later  I  ileemed  it  best  to  throw  these  supplies  into  the  general  mess. 

In  case  of  even  slight  ailments  the  surgeon  was  re<piested  to  recommend  special  diet  for  the  men.  Such 
recommendations  were  very  rarely  made,  but  in  all  cases  were  invariably  authorized  and  enforced. 

The  food  actually  consumed  per  man  daily,  during  the  two  years  at  Fort  Conger,  was  as  follows; 


Articles. 


Fresh  musk  meat .. 

Krcsli  hinls  and  hares 

C'aniit'il  meats,  soups,  iVc 

Caniieil  fish 

I'emmicaii 

I'nrk,  bacon,  and  salt  beef 

lliittcr .. 

Lard 

Ham 

Milk 

Condensed  egjjs 

Cheese 

Total  meat,  &c 

Canned  vegetables 

Sugar  (white) 

Sirup 

Total  saccharine 


Ounces. 


16.0 

o. « 
1.6 

o-S 
0.4 
^.6 

2-3 
0.6 
0.6 
1.6 
0.4 
0.4 


27.8 


10.8 


3-5 

i.S 


Articles. 


Flour.  .. 

( )atmeal  and  cornmeal ...  _ 

Hani  bread .. 

Macaroni. ... 

Farina,  corn  starch,  &c 

kice  and  hominy 

lleans  and  pease 

Total  farinaceous 

Canned  apples .. 

Other  canned  fruits 

Cranberry  sauce  and  rhubarb 

Total  fre.sh  fruits 

Pried  fruits . 

Preserves  (including  fruit  butters) 
I'ickles 


S-3 


Ounces. 

SS 

2-3 

3» 

0.4 

0-3 

>S 

0.4 

IJ.O 

1.2 

IS 

2.0 

47 

0.8 

l.o 

1.  I 

4 

:<-'\\ 


i2, 


This  aggregate  of  64.3  ounces  would  doubtless  be  increased  by  coffee,  chocolate,  tea,  spices,  condiments, 
&c.,  to  nearly  70  ounces  per  man.  The  waste  was  very  small,  far  less  than  in  any  ordinary  family,  and  this 
amount  may  reasonably  be  assumed  as  the  quantity  of  food  necessary  for  the  maititenance  of  a  man's 
health  in  a  latitude  where  the  mean  annual  teinperature  is  —4°  (  —  20°  C.).* 

Table  linen  and  crockery  of  good  quality  were  provided,  and  three  courses  at  dinner  were  always  served 
the  men  at  the  tables — soup,  meat,  with  vegetables  and  desert.  There  was  no  exception  to  this  in  the  two 
years.  On  four  days  a  week  the  dessert  was  fruit  or  berries  of  some  kind,  and  on  four  days  a  made  one, 
both  kinds  being  served  on  Sunday. 

Breakfast  was  at  7  a.  m.,  and  dinner  at  4  p.  m.  At  11  a.  m.  and  9  p.  m.  a  lunch,  consisting  of 
unlimited  coffee,  tea,  hard  bread,  and  butter,  was  set  out  for  such  as  desired. 

The  musk  meat  contributed  in  my  opinion  to  the  health  of  the  party.  Some  20,000  pounds  were 
obtained,  of  which  we  probably  lost  two  thousand  by  foxes  and  bear,  and  nearly  a  thousand  pounds  spoiled 
early  in  July,  1882.  Nearly  a  thousand  pounds  of  birds  were  brought  from  Greenland,  and  at  least  five 
hundred  pounds  more  of  fresh  meat  was  obtained  from  seal  (a  few  were  eaten)  and  small  game  birds  and 
hares.  Unfortunately  game  was  abundant  at  the  season  of  the  year  when  meat  was  least  necessary,  and  the 
proportion  eaten  during  the  summer  months  was  unduly  great. 

An  attempt  to  equally  distribute  the  meat  throughout  the  last  year  failed  through  the  loss  by  foxes  of 
cached  meat  which  was  thought  safe. 

'ITie  following  data  from  my  diary  show  the  musk  meat  eaten  after  September  i,  1882:  September  about 
1,000  pounds;  October,  1,122  pounds;  November,  543  pounds;  December,  755  pounds;  January,  1883,690 
pounds;  February,  630  pounds;  March  to  May  inclusive,  1,616  pounds;  June,  831  pounds;  July,  609  pounds. 
Total  for  eleven  months,  7,696  pounds.  In  August,  1882,  the  amount  could  not  have  been  far  from  1,400 
pounds,  which,  with  birds,  seals,  &c.,  made  the  fresh  meat  of  the  last  year  aggregate  at  least  9,500  pounds. 


*The  convicts  at  hard  lalrar  in  England  have  Hfty-one  ounces  daily,  including  milk  and  molasses. 
l875-'76,  had  a  ration  of  forty-six  ounces  of  solids. 


The  British  expedition, 


' 


'    i 


i;1 


t  ^1 


<t 


H 


344 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  MAY  EXPEDITION. 


Drinking  and  cooking  water  was  obtained  by  melting  ice  from  the  palcocrystic  floes  in  the  harbor, 
except  for  two  and  a  lialf  montiis  in  summer,  when  the  running  brooks  furnished  a  better  supply.  The  water 
from  the  tloes  always  containeil  a  certain  amount  of  salt,  too  great  a  ([uantity  to  allow  of  its  use  for  photo- 
graphic purposes,  but  care  in  selection  of  ice  preventeil  the  water  from  being  brackish  to  the  taste. 

The  absence  of  sunlight  (at  Conger  four  and  a  half  months  each  year)  had  effect  on  the  men  according 
to  temperament.  In  general  there  was  largely  increased  irritability  of  tem|)er,  a  disposition  to  sleep  (or  at 
times  wakefulness)  a  decrease  of  api)etite,  somewhat  impaired  digestion,  lack  of  energy,  apparently  (kv  .ase 
in  talk,  and  tlepression  of  s|)irits.     Otlicers  anil  men  were  alike  affected. 

The  skin  assumed  gratlually  a  deathly  pallor,  a  waxy  yellowish  appearance  not  unlike  that  of  a  corpse, 
which  disappeared  rapidly  ;<fter  the  return  of  the  sun. 

The  ailments  at  Conger  have  been  enumerated  by  the  surgeon,  but  it  was  always  a  source  of  surprise  to 
me  that  colds  were  never  contracted.  Coughs  and  some  bronchial  troubles  occurred  through  the  emanation 
of  coal  gas  the  first  winter,  but  I  recall  no  genuine  influenza  from  <Iraughts  or  exposure.  This  is  the  more 
remarkable  as  the  men  fretpiently  rushed  out  of  doors,  bareheaded  and  in  slippers,  when  the  outer  temi)era 
ture  was  —50°  (—45.6°  C.)  or  lower.  The  f;ict  has  elsewhere  been  pointed  out  that  the  temperature  of  the 
air  around  the  hea<l  was  (juite  regularly  50°  (28°  C.)  higher  than  at  the  feet. 

[During  the  boat  journey  conditions  favoring  colds  were  even  more  marked.  Excessive  exertions  caused 
perspiration  freely,  while  clothing  and  feet  were  constantly  wet  from  work  in  ice  and  water.  For  days  the 
clothing  of  the  men  was  never  dry,  and  the  slee])ing-bags  were  in  like  damp  condition.  On  one  occasion 
Sergeant  Rice,  breaking  through  rubble-ice,  changed  his  drij)ping  garments  on  the  floe  in  a  brisk  wind  with- 
out apparently  suffering  from  the  exposure.  Rheumatic  jiains  which  had  troubled  many  at  Conger  disap- 
peared and  did  not  return  save  in  special  cases  at  Camp  Clay.] 

Hunting  and  walking  were  always  encouraged  at  Fort  Conger,  and  every  attempt  was  made  to  promote 
indoor  amusements,  so  as  to  fill  up  the  long  night  of  four  and  a  half  months. 

Bagatelle,  chess,  cards,  rifle-matches,  i\:c.,  reading,  lectures,  and  the  editing  of  a  paper  were  resorted  to. 
No  indulgence  rc(iuested  or  suggested  by  either  officers  or  men  was  ever  refused.  Kvery  possible  plan  was 
followed  to  induce  cheerfulness,  confidence,  and  harmony,  conditions  in  arctic  service  which  are  not  only 
essential  to  health  but  to  success. 

Discipline  was  relaxed  as  far  as  was  possible,  never  being  of  a  severe  stamp,  and  the  general  ch.aracter 
o.  the  men  was  such  that  I  had  rarely  reason  to  regret  such  a  course. 

The  men  were  required  to  keep  regular  hours  and  were  obliged  to  go  to  bed  at  1 1  p.  m.,  unless  their 
duties  fell  in  night  hours.  In  the  second  winter,  except  night  observers,  no  man  was  allowed  to  occupy  his 
bed  between  8  a.  m.  and  3.30  p.  m.  This  restriction  appeared  necessary  to  promote  sleep  in  regular  hours 
for  strange  as  it  may  appear  there  was  the  same  disinclination  to  go  to  bed  or  to  rise  regularly  in  the  long 
arctic  night  or  full  polar  day  as  is  sometimes  noticed  in  lower  latitudes. 

An  ounce  of  lime-juice  was  issued  daily  to  each  man,  which  was  omitted  whenever  cider  was  drank. 
The  lime-juice  was  discontinued  for  a  few  days  on  occasions  when  the  surgeon  recommended  it.  Only  one 
or  two  members  of  the  party  ever  attempted  to  ev.ade  taking  this  valuable  antiscorbutic. 

Exercise  was  never  enforced  for  itself,  but  whenever  a  man  was  found  too  much  inclined  to  avoid  it,  he 
was  given  such  duty  as  required  exertion  in  the  open  air.  As  a  rule  it  was  urged  that  one  hour  a  day  should 
be  spent  in  exercise  or  outdoor  work.  The  men  were  generally  fond  of  hunting,  walking,  &c.,  and  but 
little  trouble  was  found  on  that  score. 

No  ration  of  spirits  was  ever  issued  as  such.  Generally  a  quart  and  a  half  of  New  England  .urn  was 
divided  between  the  party  on  Sunday  evening.  As  two  or  three  rarely  drank  rum,  it  gave  a  little  over  a 
half  gill  to  each  man.  The  birthday  of  each  man  was  duly  celebrated  by  a  dinner  which  he  selected,  and 
by  a  present  of  a  quart  of  rum.  Holidays  were  similarly  marked.  A  small  personal  stock  of  wine  (port, 
catawba,  and  sauterne)  was  distributed  by  me  about  etpially  to  the  officers  and  men  on  special  occasions. 

About  one  gill  of  rum  weekly  and  one-third  as  much  wine  is  the  average  amount  of  spirits  drank  by 
each  man  during  the  two  years  at  Conger.  I  cannot  now  recall  a  case  where  spirits  were  ever  prescribed, 
although  possibly  there  were  a  few  instances. 


THK  LADY   KUANKI.IN  «AY  EXrEDlTION. 


345 


For  sledge  parties  the  following  daily  ration  was  fixed: 


Articles. 

1882. 

1883. 

Nares, 
i87S-'76. 

Otinees. 
20 

Articles. 

18K2. 

1883. 

OuHCfS. 

N.ir«'», 
•875-'7<i. 

Meat 

Outires. 
22 

2 
10 

J 

2 

Otinrts. 
i 

f 

Butter 

Toliacco               

Bread 

14    ! 

Salt                        

i 

Milk 

. 

I'euuer                   .. 

.Suiiar . 

2 
{        * 

2 

2 

2 

*  )ni(>ii  iH)W(Ier 

Tea    

Curry  paste 

Chocolate    

Lime-juice 

i 

Kum 

48,'., 

47  J* 

Alcohol  fuel 

6 

*()r  beans. 

NoTR. — I  recommend  as  a  suitable  field  ration  for  an  American  expedition  the  following:  Pemmican,  11  ounces;  lioiled 
l)acon,  3I  ounces;  fresh  meat,  b}  ounces;  sausage,  if  ounces;  tot.il  meat,  22  ounces.  Butter,  2  ounces;  broad,  10  ounces; 
milk,  I  ounce;  sugar,  \\  ounces;  tea,  compressed,  I  ounce;  jxitatoes,  evaporate<l,  4  ounces;  salt,  \  ounce;  pepper,  ^',1  ounce; 
curry  ]iastc,  ,',,  ounce;  tolal  food,  41  ,'•'„  ounces.  I.lme  juice,  i  ounce;  alcohol  fuel,  6  ounces  ;  total  ration,  48,<,  ounces.  Beef  tea 
and  coffee  or  chocolate  might  each  well  replace  tea  one  meal  a  week,  and  a  ration  of  ^,1  ounce  of  eva)K)ratetl  apples  or  peaches 
might  be  beneficially  added. 

Lime-juice  pemmican  was  most  distasteful,  and  like  all  objectionable  food  is  exceedingly  dangerous  in 
the  field.  Chocolate,  when  drank  in  the  morning,  induced  thirst  in  many  cases.  Tea  is  by  all  means  the 
arctic  drink,  and  in  our  exi)eriencc  stimulated  the  most  with  the  least  apjjarent  reaction. 

On  leaving  Fort  Conger  August  9,  1883,  the  entire  party  was  in  health  except  Hospital  Steward  Henry 
Biederbick,  who  was  suffering  from  inflammatory  rheumatism,  and  Private  (now  Sergeant)  Francis  Long, 
who  complained  of  chest  pains,  but  still  performed  duty.  It  is  notable  that  these  two  men,  whom  the  sur- 
geon and  I  thought  would  possibly  be  unable  to  do  any  hard  work  during  the  retreat,  not  only  did  all  that 
fell  to  them,  but  are  now  living,  despite  the  fact  that  Long,  a  natural  and  remarkable  hunter,  never  spared 
himself  in  the  pursuit  of  game  up  to  the  storm  before  the  rescue,  and  Biederbick  was  equally  prodigal  of  his 
strength  and  energies  in  caring  for  the  sick  and  helpless.  Although  some  of  the  party  suffered  from  diarrhea 
during  the  drift  in  Kane  Sea,  yet  every  man  was  for  active  duty  on  landing  at  Eskimo  Point,  September  29, 
1883,  except  Sergeant  Cross,  who  had  frozen  a  foot  slightly,  and,  though  able  to  do  other  duty,  could  not 
work  in  the  drag-ropes  for  a  few  days. 

The  excessive  hardships,  unremitting  work  and  short  rations  from  the  beginning  of  September  told,  how- 
ever, on  the  health  and  strength  of  the  men  by  the  time  we  formally  went  into  winter  tjuarters  near  Cape 
Sabine  the  last  of  October,  1883. 

The  building  of  temporary  quarters  at  Eskimo  Point,  an  apparent  necessity  at  the  time,  was  not  only  a 
task  which  taxed  to  the  utmost  the  physical  strength  of  the  party,  but  it  also  wore  out  hand  and  foot  gear 
and  bruised  badly  hands,  &c.,  which  did  not  heal  with  facility.  Fully  half  the  party  froze  slightly  their  feet 
during  the  march  from  Eskimo  Point  to  Camp  Clay,  owing  to  more  or  less  tidal  overflow  and  the  salty 
efflorescence  which,  melting  readily  even  at  low  temperatures,  saturated  the  foot-gear. 

Our  quarters  for  winter  at  Camp  Clay  were  a  stone  hut  covered  with  canvas  and  a  whale-boat.  Snow 
blocks  were  laid  on  the  roof  and  piled  around  the  hut,  and  as  winter  advanced  the  whole  structure  was 
gradually  and  completely  buried  by  the  drifting  snow. 

The  entire  supply  of  loose  rocks  was  exhausted  in  erecting  the  walls  to  a  height  of  4  feet  [i.a""]  at  sides 
and  ends.  The  hut  was  25  feet  [7.6™]  by  18  feet  [5.5""]  in  the  clear,  and  in  the  center  under  the  boat  was  a 
little  over  7  feet  [2.1'"]  high. 

The  fioor  was  coarse  gravel,  on  which  was  spread  canvas  to  protect  the  sleeping-bags  from  the  ground. 
It  was  of  little  avail,  for  within  a  few  days  the  bags,  canvas,  and  sand  were  frozen  solidly  together.  Snow 
brought  in  on  the  person  and  condensing  moisture  from  cooking  speedily  rendered  the  inside  of  the  bags 
more  or  less  damp,  and  whenever  quitted  by  the  occupants  the  inside  of  the  bags  froze  as  solidly  as  the 
low»;r  portions. 


^l!i 


346 


TIIK  LADY  KUANKIJN  HAY   KXPKDITION. 


In  the  seven  months  durinj^  whi<h  this  wretched  hut  was  occupied  tlie  temperature  when  we  were  tying 
never  rcacheil  the  freezing  point  of  wnier,  and  rarely  ilid  the  thernionicter  of  the  barometer,  two  feet  [.6"' 
from  the  cooking  stove  and  two  feet  [.6'"]  above  the  ground,  show  such  a  temperature. 

The  cubic  space  per  man  was  94 ^j  feet,  which  was  probably  reduc  ed  to  80  feet  by  the  bo(hcs  of  the 
men,  sleeping-bags,  \'c.,  nearly  half  the  cubic  spa<'c  per  man  on  the  AUit  and  Jhsioiriy,  and  ecjual  to  or 
greater  than  that  of  the  sailors  of  the  Swedish  Arctic  expedition  of  187J-73.  A  tin  can  in  the  roof  served 
as  a  (  hiinney  for  smoke  and  as  a  ventilator  al  other  times.  The  high  winds  which  prevailed  the  greater  j-art 
of  the  winter  served  to<  liange  the  air  rapidly  (too  rapidly  we  often  thought)  thiough  the  ventilator,  and  the 
crevices  between  the  boat  and  the  canvas  roof,  so  that  the  party  suffered  little  if  any  for  air.  The  condi- 
tion of  the  air  was  ftir  the  worst  during  the  cooking  of  the  two  meals.  At  such  times  the  dense  smoke  and 
the  vapor  from  the  cooking  food  rendered  it  impossible  to  see  even  the  light  a  few  feet  distant.  The  air  was 
so  bad  then  that  but  few  could  remain  upright  in  theii  bags.  To  remedy  this  as  far  as  jjossible  the  door 
was  opened,  which,  as  the  air  ranged  from  —10°  (  —  23.3°  (-'.)  to  —40"  (—40°  C),  chilled  every  one.  It 
was  sur|)rising  that  the  cooks  were  ever  able  to  prepare  the  hot  drink  and  food,  and  it  was  nothing  un- 
usual for  them  to  be  thoroughly  exhausted  from  cold,  smoke,  and  work.  It  is  yet  more  sur]>rising  that  the 
two  men  (Frederick  and  Long)  who  suffered  most  from  these  unfavorable  conditions  are  yet  living. 

During  the  winter  no  more  exertion  or  exercise  was  taken  than  was  necessary  to  perform  indispensable 
work,  that  being  one  point  on  which  my  surgeon  and  I  weie  agreed.  In  certain  cas'.'s  the  medical  officer 
professionally  advised  exercise,  which  was  enforced  as  far  as  possible.  The  results  of  physical  exertion  or 
of  abstention  therefrom  are  in  doubt.  Council,  Gardiner  (who  died  only  ten  days  before  the  rescue),  Henry, 
Elison,  and  I  did  substantially  no  physical  work.  Hrainard,  Uiederbick,  Frederick,  Rice  (who  died  of 
overwork  and  exhaustion),  and  Long  ilid  collectively  seven-eighths  of  all  the  physical  work. 

The  minor  office  of  nature  was  performed  ii.  the  hut,  a  tub  being  provided  for  that  purpose,  which  was 
much  frequented,  as  the  cold  appeared  to  weaken  the  kidneys  greatly,  and  in  several  incontinence  of  urine 
occurred  at  times. 

The  more  important  function  gave  great  troui  'e  owing  to  exhaustion  arising  ftom  physical  efforts  to 
assist  the  torpid  bowels  ami  also  from  the  exposure  X'\  the  weather.  Some  perfornicd  two  or  three  times 
each  week,  but  the  average  movement  was  weekly,  and  in  several  instances  there  was  no  office  from  fourteen 
to  seventeen  days. 

The  ration  during  October  ranged  from  twenty  to  thirty  ounces  of  solids  each  day,  but  on  November 
I  it  was  necessary  to  make  a  very  material  reduction  to  insure  any  chance  for  life. 

The  ration  from  November  i,  1883,  '.o  March  i,  1884,  was  fixed  as  follows : 


Article. 

f)unce.s.. 

1 
4.0     1 
0.  26  1 

0.4     1 
0.6     i 

0.3     ' 
0.2 
0.  2 
0.  I 
6.0 

Article. 

Ounces. 

0.8 
o.s 
0.  2<i 
0.  I 
0.  16 
0.2 
0.4 

14.48 

Meat 

Extract  of  beef      .       .. 

nog-biscuit 

Hutter 

l-ard  

Kice. 

Kvaiwratcd  ])otatoes ..    

Canned  soup                       -,  _ 

Tomatoes 

Kaisins 

Conden.scd  milk 

I'ickled  onions 

Total  solids 

Canned  peas 

Canned  corn 

Canned  Ciirrots 

Bread 

For  beverages  was  allowed  each  man  daily  extract  of  coffee,  0.44  ounce ;  extract  of  chocolate,  0.3 
ounce ;  tea,  0.3  ounce. 

There  were  issued  weekly  as  antiscorbutics  and  luxuries:  Mulberries,  0.2  ounce;  rum,  i  ounce;  lime- 
juice,  0.3  ounce,  and  one-tpiarter  of  a  lemon.  The  very  small  amount  of  pep])er,  salt,  onion  powder,  and 
sugar  were  reserved  for  special  occasions,  but  eventually  a  considerable  part  of  them  were  set  aside  for 
Elison's  exclusive  use. 

Tlie  above  ration  assumed  that  the  canned  goods  were  full  weight.  It  was  evident  that  this  was  not 
true  of  the  extract  of  beef  nor  of  any  vegetable.  The  dog-biscuit  was  all  moldy  and  unfit  for  food.  It  is 
a  liberal  allowance  to  estimate  its  nutritive  value  at  half  of  what  it  wfis  originally.  About  one-eighth  the 
bread  was  somewhat  moldy  and  another  eighth  had  been  wet  and  frozen,  for  which  increased  weight  no 
allowance  was  made  in  issues.     Some  of  the  potatoes  and  chocolate  were  moldy  and  part  of  the  bacon 


TIIK  LADY  I'UANKLIN  IJAY  KXI'KDITION. 


347 


rusty.  The  lard  was  not  issued  during  the  winter,  lieinK  set  aside  for  Kli^on's  licnetit,  as  were  several  cans 
of  ntilk,  sou|),  and  a  (|uanlity  of  butter.  'I'en  pounds  of  milk  and  eight  ounces  of  chocolate  were  stolen. 
In  issuing  seal  and  fox  meat  no  allowance  was  made  for  bones. 

Sergeant  Hrainard,  the  issuing  clerk,  made  it  a  rule  in  his  week's  issues  to  retain  in  favor  of  the  general 
stores  any  fraction  of  ounces,  and  tiiat  his  improvised  scales,  as  was  surmised,  gave  scant  weight,  was  shown 
by  small  surjiluses  on  March  i.  It  also  became  necessary  to  provide  for  an  extra  day,  the  29th  of  Kebruary, 
as  it  escaped  my  notice  in  making  cal<  ulations  that  1 H84  was  a  leap  year.  <  )n  the  other  hand,  about  seventy 
pounds  of  fox-meat  were  a<lded  to  our  supplies,  anil  two  fresh  seal-skins  were  boiled  and  used  in  soups. 
Seal  blubber,  to  a  certain  amount,  was  issued  extra. 

The  following  table,  in  whi(  h  allowances  have  been  made  for  damaged  food,  &c.,  gives  more  «:orrectIy 
the  <laily  ration  on  which  the  party  (whi(  h  had  been  already  on  a  half-ration  or  less  for  over  a  month)  sub- 
sisted for  one  hundred  and  twenty-one  ilays: 


Articles. 


soLins. 

Meat ._ 

Kxtract  of  beef 

F.vnimratcd  |>ntatoes 

Caniicil  soup 

Canned  tomatoes 

Canned  peas 

Canned  corn 

Canned  carrots 

I'ickled  onions 

bread 

]>og-blsci)it 

Itutter 

Condensed  milk 

Rice 

Raisins 

Total 


t)unces. 

Articles. 

4.1 

0.2 

03 

0.5 

0.25 

0.  IS 

0.  IS 

o.oX 

0.4 

55 
0.4 

0-45 
0.15 
0.  10 
CIS 

HEVERACES. 
Kxlmcl  of  coffee 

Kxtract  of  chocolate 

Tea 

Kiiin    

MF.DICINAI.. 

Cloii(ll)erries 

Limejuice ... .           

• 

12.88 

Ounces. 


0.40 
n.2S 
o.  2$ 
o.  14 


0.03 
0.04 


If  this  amount  of  solid  food  could  have  been  issued  daily  after  March  i,  1884,  I  doubt  that  any  man 
would  have  died  from  lack  of  food.  A  reduction  of  one-third  was,  however,  necessary  after  Man:h  i,  and 
the  <fiet  was  restricted  entirely  to  meat,  bread,  and  tea,  averaging  probably  ten  ounces  in  all,  on  which  diet 
no  deaths  occurred  for  five  weeks  longer. 

Care  has  been  taken  to  make  this  statement  of  our  ration  as  accurate  as  possible,  "on  the  assumption 
that  the  medical  fraternity  would  concur  in  the  opinion  of  my  surgeon,  that  no  man  could  live  four  months 
on  such  a  diet.  That  the  party,  with  one  exception,  lived  far  beyond  March  i,  the  time  originally  fixed 
as  the  limit  of  probability,  seems  a  striking  illustration  of  the  endurance  and  possibilities  of  selected  men. 

After  the  middle  of  March  the  bread  ration  was  gradually  reduced  to  two  ounces,  and  about  the  same 
time  the  paity  commenced  eating  shrimps,  or  sea  lice,  which  were  caught  with  great  difficulty. 

In  April  the  tips  of  the  purple  saxifrage  (Saxifraga  oppositifoUa)  commenced  to  show  green,  and  many 
ate  of  it  in  quantities,  and  several  times  a  considerable  amount  of  it  was  stewed  for  the  party.  Opinions 
differed  as  to  its  affording  any  real  nutrition,  but  in  my  own  case  it  afforded  a  feeling  of  fullness  which 
at  least  alleviated  the  gnawings  of  hunger  to  some  extent. 

The  effects  of  hunger  were  continuous,  and  at  no  time  in  nearly  ten  months  was  I  personally  free  from 
an  intense  desire  to  eat.  It  was,  however,  the  greatest  when  food  had  just  been  taken,  and  greater  when 
we  ate  fifteen  oun'^es  a  day  than  when  we  had  ten. 

The  favorite  diversion  to  distract  us  from  our  ills  w.-is  the  elaboration  of  fanciful  bills  of  fare.  It  was 
noticeable  that  t.i.'l:  of  food  waxed  and  waned  according  to  the  ration  issued,  there  being  the  least  talk  when 
the  food  supply  was  at  its  minimum. 

The  killing  of  a  bear,  in  Ajjril,  and  of  occasional  birds,  at  intervals,  afforded  opportunities  of  increasing 
and  varying  the  diet.  Later  in  the  season  a  (|uantity  of  reindeer  moss  (Clationia  ratigi/erina)  was  found  from 
time  to  time,  and  the  buds  and  flowers  of  saxifrage  were  eaten. 


I  ! 


348 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


!|       i 


h    I 


There  was  quite  a  plentiful  growth  of  lichens  on  the  rocks,  which  a  number  of  men  ate  as  early  as 
Apriljbut  tliesiirgeoniliscouray;e(l  the  use  of  them  on  the  ground  that  the  experiences  of  Franklin,  Richardson, 
Hayes,  and  others  proved  the  danger  of  diarrhea  resulting  from  the  use  of  tliem.  Any  disease,  in  our 
enfeebled  condition,  he  thouglit  would  be  fatal.  Early  in  June,  however,  the  remnant  of  the  party  gathered 
all  tliat  they  could  of  these  lichens,  which  were,  or  appeared  to  be,  very  nutriiious.  When  >  tewed  they  had 
a  slightly  sweetish  taste  and  gave  out  a  gelatinous  matter  which  made  the  water  resemble  thin  mucilage. 

Besides  shrimps,  sea-weed,  saxifrage,  reindeer  moss  and  such  lichens,  resort  was  had  to  soal-skin,  first 
the  skin  without  hair  on,  which  was  boiled,  later  the  skin  with  hair  on,  which  was  roasted,  and  lastly  to  oil- 
tanned  scn.l-skin.     The  last  remnant  of  our  regular  supplies  was  issued  May  1 2,  six  weeks  before  our  rescue. 

When  regular  food  failed  and  the  ]iarty  had  recourse  to  sea  shrimps,  sea-weed,  etc.,  the  change  of  diet 
caused  relaxation  in  some,  with  attacks  of  diarrhea,  while  in  others  the  constipation  was  excessive.  In  my 
own  case  inflammation  of  the  bowels  was  threatened,  and  Gardiner's  death  was  hastened  by  that  c;'use. 
Over  exertion  and  exposure  induced  in  some  cases  marked  deposits  of  albumen  in  the  urine. 

During  the  winter  a  small  quantity  of  lime-juice  was  issued  once  a  week,  and  iron  was  given  occasionally 
as  the  surgeon  saw  proper. 

The  cases  of  frost-bite  during  the  autumn,  not  at  all  serious  under  other  circumstances ,  did  not  heal  n  adily. 
Frost-bites  were  not  infrequent  in  the  hut,  and  in  more  than  one  case  the  fro/.en  limb  never  healed. 

Steward  Biederbick  has  well  said :  "  The  weakness  of  body  showed  itself  also  in  mind,  some  of  the 
party  being  at  times  very  petulant  and  childish."  Two  officci.i  and  four  men  displayed,  on  various  occasions, 
mental  weaknesses  wliich  were  undoul)tedIy  owing  to  weakness  of  body. 

The  deaths,  except  of  Jens,  Rice,  and  Henry,  were  the  result  of  starvation,  though  the  verbal  report  of 
the  surgeon,  in  the  cailier  cases,  was  action  of  water  on  the  heart.  Cross  had  marked  signs  of  scurvy,  and 
Christiansen  less  evident  ones.  Possibly  a  scorbutic  taint  existed  in  most,  if  not  all,  cases.  Inflammation 
of  the  bowels  hastened  Sergeant  Gardiner's  death,  and  the  taking  of  nearly  four  ounces  of  tincture  of  ergot 
caused  Dr.  Pavy,  I  presume,  to  die  a  day  or  two  earlier  than  he  otherwise  would. 

In  nearly  every  case  temporary  wandering  preceded  death,  which  was  always  easy  and  painless,  and 
generally  so  quiet  that  t'' .  -"act  hour  of  dissolution  was  not  known.  Consciousness  was  changed  to  the 
stage  of  coma  with  almost  startling  rajiidity,  as  in  several  cases  the  m.an  commenced  to  eat  his  food  with 
ai)parent  zest,  and  would  pass  into  the  unconscious  state  before  the  meal  was  ended. 

The  large  numbers  of  letters  I  have  received  bearing  on  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors  and  tobacco  in 
the  polar  regions,  indicate  a  wide-spread  interest  in  the  subject.  My  own  observations  are  personal,  having 
no  such  weight  as  would  those  of  a  trained  medical  man,  being  simply  those  of  an  intelligent,  unprejudiced 
layman,  whose  perceptive  faculties  were  sharpened  by  the  fact  that  the  health  of  the  men  under  his  charge 
(and  incidentally  tlie  success  of  the  sledging  parties)  was,  in  a  measure,  affected  by  the  use  or  disuse  of 
tiiose  articles.  It  may  be  remarked  that  personally  I  do  not  use  tobacco,  and  very  rarely  touch  li(piors 
except  the  light  wines,  and  those  not  regularly. 

The  question  of  tobacco  is  the  easiest  to  dispose  of.  Its  use  in  moderation  appeared  to  have  no 
injurious  results,  but,  in  quarters  at  least,  conduced  to  quietude  of  mind.  One  of  the  i)arty,  who  used  for 
months  (iver  two  ounces  daily,  largely  in  smoking,  informed  me  that  he  had  once  been  attacked  by  aphasia, 
and  tliat  ])remonitory  symjitoms  at  Conger  obliged  him  for  a  time  to  use  tobacco  with  greater  moderation. 

At  least  one  man  discontinued  smoking  whenever  serving  in  the  field,  and  all  indulged  in  it  sparingly 
for  one  reason,  perhaps,  that  tobacco  had  !o  be  carried  on  the  person  and  not  as  a  part  of  the  regular  rations. 
It  was  noticed  by  Sergeant  lirainard  with  one  party,' and  by  me  with  another,  that  tobacco  chewers  in 
the  field  suffered  more  from  tliiist  than  others.  When  tobacco  failed  at  Cajie  Sabine,  the  men  almost 
invariably  sullered  for  a  time  from  mental  tlv-pression.  It  h.is  been  commented  on  that  four  of  the  six  non- 
tobacco  users  in  the  expedition  are  now  living,  but  it  should  be  remembered  that  they  were  also  temperate 
men  of  good  habits. 

As  to  the  use  of  rum,  a  small  quantity  of  it,  in  ([uaiters  at  irregular  intervals,  served  an  excellent  pur- 
pose in  breaking  the  monotony  by  stimulating  tiie  mental  faculties.  Some  of  the  men  would  have  done  as 
well  without  it,  olhevs  would  not.  It  was  never  used  regularly  in  the  fielil,  but  on  very  few  occasions  when 
taken  during  work,  or  in  cases  where  it  was  surreptitiously  obtained  and  drank  during  the  day,  it  appeared 
not  only  to  diminish  the  man's  power  lor  work,  but  to  impair  his  resistance  to  cold,  and  even  to  interfere 
with  his  appetite  for  sulid  food. 

During  the  retreat,  rum  was  frequently,  but  not  invariably,  issued  with  beneficial  results.  Its  use 
appeared  to  greatest  advantage  when  given  just  after  the  men  entered  their  sleeping-bags,  following  an 


laarr^^Ti^  >' j-fuM^lU  U^ 


V^l^ 


THE  LADY  FRANKIilN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


349 


xhausting  day,  during  which  matters  ha<l  gone  badly.  It  then  caused  a  mental  stimulus,  excited  a 
leeling  of  warmth  (which  with  me  seemed  to  come  from  iiicieaseil  circulation),  and  also  appeared  to  have 
narcotic  properties,  for  it  induced  drowsiness  and  greatly  pnunoted  sleep.  Half  a  gill  was  issued  at  such 
time,  but  where  ui'jii  received  on  special  occasions  a  gill,  they  stateil  that  its  beneficial  results  were  but 
slightly  if  at  all  increased. 

At  Camp  Clay,  nearly  pure  alcohol,  diluted  witli  two  or  three  times  its  weight  i..  water,  was  used  as 
food  in  our  dire  necessity,  each  man  receiving  daily  perhaps  a  ([uarter  of  an  ounce  of  alcohol.  Its  cHect 
was  the  same  as  described  above,  though  acting  witii  greater  fMrce.  The  general,  as  well  as  my  own, 
impression  was  that  it  supplemented  food,  and  had  a  marked  alimentary  value. 

It  was  the  general  opinion  of  the  men,  expressed  at  Cajjc  S.abine,  that  spirits  ought  to  be  taken  after 
the  day's  labor,  and  not  during  hard  work.  Nearly  every  one,  including  my  surgeon,  who  urged  it  in  1881-82, 
'  jlieved  it  shoiiid  be  a  constituent  of  the  Arctic  ration.  My  opinion  holds  now,  as  then,  that  in  small  (pianti- 
ties  it  is  very  beneficial,  and  shoukl  be  carried  by  all  expeditions  and  sledge  |)arties,  but  I  think  its  /vyw/ffr  issue 
would  be  deleterious  rather  than  beneficial.  No  sledge  party  ot  mine  ever  went  without  spirits ;  none  ever  used 
it  as  a  ration ;  aad  in  the  exhausting,  trying  journeys  of  tvi^o  years,  ranging  Iroiu  ten  to  sixty  days  in  length,  no 
man  ever  broke  ilown  piiysically. 

In  short.  Dr.  iMivall,  who  served  with  Norilenskitild  in  Spitzbergen,  expresses  my  opinion  when  he  said: 
"  I  believe  s|)irituous  licpiors  to  be  of  great  use  in  small  anil  moderate  ijuantities,  but  exceeilingly  mischievous 
and  pernicious  in  case  of  the  least  excess." 

In  connection  with  the  subjei't  of  scurvy,  attention  is  invited  to  the  fact  that  the  dietary  at  Cami)  Clay 
was  very  like  in  its  character  to  that  at  Conger.  The  first  marked  signs  of  scurvy  were  noted  in  tiie  case  of 
Sergeant  Cross,  only  a  few  days  prior  to  his  death,  in  January,  1884.  The  parly  thus  remained  free  from 
scurvy  two  years  and  five  months,  and  the  first  man,  though  with  a  constitution  impaireil  by  free  living, 
only  succumbed  after  four  months'  slow  starvation, whereby  his  weight  had  dc(  leased  fully  twenty-five  per 
centum.*  The  second  person,  Kskimo  Ciirisliansen,  ilied  after  seven  months  of  insufficient  food,  having 
decreased  as  much  in  weight  as  Cross.  lUit  in  Christiansen's  case  scorbutic  symptoms  were  scarcely  detected 
prior  to  his  death,  and  the  tlisease  had  made  no  great  progress. 

These  points  are  brought  forward  as  having  a  certain  bearing  on  the  iiuestion  of  scurvy  and  its  causes. 

The  party  at  Cape  Sabine  had  fresh  meat,  canned  vegetables,  ln.itter,  milk,  lime-juice,  cloudberries,  and 
a  less  depiivation  (by  twenty  days)  of  sunlight  than  at  Conger  On  the  I'oiUrary,  it  was  subjected  to  cold, 
used  very  great  (juantities  of  salt  water  in  its  food,  was  compelled  to  live  in  a  far  less  pure  and  much  tlamper 
atmosphere,  to  subsist  on  a  ration  so  insutficient  as  to  fail  in  repairinj.'  physical  waste,  and  to  undergo  the 
continuous  physical  torture  of  starvation,  and  the  eiiually  great  mental  trial  arising  in  many  or  most  from 
brooding  over  the  grave  uncertainties  of  the  future. 

Despite  all  these  disadvantages  at  Camp  Clay,  no  man  died  of  scurvy  alone,  and  practically  the  expe- 
dition was  free  from  the  disease  (hiring  its  three  years  of  active  service. 

These  exoeriences  to  me  as  a  layman  seem  to  favor  the  idea  that  scurvy,  while  fostered  by  dampness, 
cold,  over-exertion,  and  darkness,  is  a  disease  which  can  be  obviated  by  proper  dietary  precautions  ;  in  other 
words,  that  it  is  strictly  preventable,  ''"his  is  in  consonance  with  authoritative  opinions  if  one  may  judge 
from  the  general  practice  in  late  years,  which  has  intrusted  the  outfitting  of  important  Arctic  expeditions  to 
committees  composed  of  medical  and  ex;)erienced  Arctic  officers. 

If  it  happened  that  health  abided  with  the  Lady  Franklin  Hay  Expedition,  and  its  surgeon  had  no 
occasion  to  e»  nnse  his  medical  skill,  save  in  trivial  ailments  cited  in  his  reports,  it  is,  I  believe,  largely 
owing  to  strict  compliance  with  hygienic  rules  laid  down  by  moilern  medical  science,  and  to  its  diet  com- 
posed of  articles  approved,  as  peculiarly  suited  for  arctic  aliment,  by  the  leading  disciples  of  thnt  science. 

If  such  be  the  case,  and  hygiene  is  so  definitely  and  clearly  elaborated  that  a  layman  may  apjily  its 
rules  successfully,  even  under  such  disadvantages  as  arctic  service  entails,  it  is  only  anotiier  instance  of  the 
spirit  and  triumph  of  modern  medicine,  whicii,  self-denying  and  generous,  prefers  first  to  instruct  men  how 
to  avoid  discatie,  and  then,  its  advice  contemned,  to  repait  as  best  it  may  the  neglect  of  the  unheeding. 

A.  \V.  Greei.v, 
First  /Jcultftaut,  Fifth  Cavalry^  A.  S.  O.  tiiiif  Assistant, 

ComiiKinding  I,.  F.  li.  Fxl^edition, 

*  The  first  two  cases  of  scurvy  in  the  British  expedition,  1S75,  '76,  hkewisc  occurred  in  men  "  addicted  to  an  immoderate 
use  of  alcohol." 


^^^. 


350 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Api'KNDIX  No.  104. — Record  left  at  Cape  liaird. 


Fort  Conger,  Grinnei.i,  Land,  Mnn/i  26,  1883. 

General  health  of  party  second  winter  better  than  the  first.  All  are  well  at  present.  Following  jjrin- 
cipal  journeys  made  in  1882  :  Dr.  Pavy's  attempt  to  discover  land'  north  ot  Cape  Josfiph  Henry  failed,  he 
being  obliged  to  return  by  sea  opening  just,  north  of  that  cape,  by  which  his  jjarty  were  adrift  on  the  i)olar 
pack  for  a  day. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood,  accompanied  by  supporting  man-sledge  party  to  Cape  Bryant,  rouniled  North 
Cape  [Cape  Frederick]  NNVV.  of  Britannia,  and  followed  Hazen  t  oast  to  the  NE.  (true),  until  compelled  by 
want  of  provisions,  to  return,  after  attaining  the  highest  latitude  ever  reached.  He  reached  his  farthest 
(Lockwood  Island,  latitude  83°  23.8'  north,  longitude  40°  46'  west).  May  13,  and  returned  to  Fort  Conger 
June  2,  1882.  Land  was  seen  as  far  as  83°  33'  north  and  38°  west,  but  none  to  the  north.  A  photographic 
map  of  his  discoveries  is  herewith  inclosed. 

The  commanding  officer  in  April,  1882,  made  trips  inland  via  Chandler  Fiord  and  Ruggles  River  to 
Henrietta  Nesmith  Glacier,  which  discharges  into  Lake  Hazen,  a  body  of  water  about  600  feet  [183™]  above 
the  sea,  and  covering  an  area  of  some  500  square  miles.  A  second  trip  via  Black  Rock  Vale  in  July  [1882] 
carried  him  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Chester  A.  Arthur,  whence,  from  an  elevation  of  4,500  feet  [1,37 '?'"], 
land  was  seen  on  a  very  clear  day  as  far  as  vision  reached.  A  range  of  mountains  was  seen  through  depres- 
sion of  country  to  the  southwest  which  possibly  was  part  of  a  land  west  of  Grinnell  Land.  Photographic 
map  of  discoveries  herewith  inclosed.  In  August  [1882]  the  commanding  officer  visited  Cape  Cracroft  in 
launch  Lady  Grec/y,  and  with  same  boat  Lieutenant  Lockwood  visited  the  head  of  Archer's  Fiord  and  pen- 
etrated some  12  or  15  miles  into  Chandler  P'iord.  Dr.  Pavy  visited  Carl  Ritter  Bay  on  foot  in' August  and 
by  sledge  in  October,  [1882]  both  trips  overland  to  Cape  Defosses  from  Cape  Baird.  Kennedy  Channel  and 
Smith's  Sound  open  as  far  south  as  could  be  seen  in  August,  but  Robeson  Channel  never  clcnrcd  of  ice  north 
of  St.  Patrick  Bay.  No  vessel  visited  station  in  1882.  Arrangements  are  being  gradually  made  to  retreat 
southward  by  boats  early  in  August  in  case  no  vessel  arrives.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  starts  soon  (probably 
to-morrow),  to  continue  his  discoveries  beyond  Cape  Robert  l^incoln  [Washington].  Taking  two  dog-sledgcs, 
one  as  a  supporting  sledge,  he  will  return  about  May  25,  [1883]. 

The  following  are  results  of  meteorological  observations ; 


tl     i  I 


Time. 


1881. 

August 

Se|)teml)er 

October 

November 

December 

1882. 

January  

Kcbruary  

M.irch . 

April 

Miiy 

June 

July 

Yearly  means  . 

1882. 

Aufjust 

September 

October . 

November 

December 

1883. 

January . 

February  


Mean  barometer. 


Inches. 
29 . 842 
29.802 
29.891 
29.760 
29.710 

29.717 
29-754 
29  738 
30.151 

30.130 
29.930 
29.714 


29.845 


29.810 
29.741 
29 -737 

29  '.JS** 

30  '34 

29-875 
29.590 


757-97 
756.96 
759-22 

755-89 
754.62 

754.80 
755-74 
755-33 
765  83 
765.29 
760.21 
754-72 


758.05 


757-16 
755-41 
755-3" 
760  92 

765-39 
7S'-S7 


Tempcratur*. 


Mean, 


Maximum. 


I 


Minimum. 


"F. 

433-3 
+  10.9 

—  9.2 
-24.5 
-32.0 

--38-3 
—46.5 
—29.9 

—  8.6 
+  •7-4 
+33- » 
+36.8 


°C. 
+  0.7 
-n.7 

—2?.  9 

-3«-4 
-35-6 

-39-« 
—43-6 
—34-4 
— 22.6 
—  8.1 
+  0.6 
+  2.7 


—4.95    —20.53 


+35-3 
-I- 18. 1 

-  7-8 
-28.0 
-.17.8 


-35-8 
-389 


+  1.8 

-  7-7 
— 22. 1 

—a -3 

—33-2 

—37-7 
—39-4 


°F. 

+45-0 
30.0 

-I-  9-0 
+  3-# 
— 10. o 


— 10. o 
— 10. o 

-  7.0 
-1 14.0 
(-36-0 

I53-0 
+50  o 


+53-0 


"C. 
+  7-2 

—  I.I 
-12. 8 

-16.1 

—23-3 

—23-3 
—23-3 
-21.7 

—  lo.o 
4-  2.2 
+  11.7 
-fio.o 


°F. 
-f  16.0 

—  lO.O 

—31.0 
-43.0 

—52.2 

—58.0 
— 62.0 

—47.0 

— 42.0 

4-  i.o 

+  '3-o 
-1-30.0 


-f48.o 

+  8.9 

+  27.0 

—  2.8 

H  >40 

--10.0 

-  4.0 

—20.0 

+  6.0 

-14-4 

-18.0 

-27.8 

-  S-o 

— 20.6 

-I-II.7     —62.0 


-f23-o 

+    1.0 

—24.0 
— 46.0 

-44.0 


-51-0 
-56.0 


°C. 

-  8.9 
-23-3 
-35 -o 
-41-7 
-46.8 

-50.0 
-52.2 

-43-9 
-41 -I 
-17.2 
-10.6 
-I.I 


-52.2 


-  5 
-"7 
-3'- 
■43 
-42 


46. 1 
-48.9 


Rainfall,  188i-'82,  3.91  inches  [99-3"""]. 

A.   W.   Greelv. 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding, 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


351 


This  record  is  left  by  First  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Clrcely,  U.  S  Army,  who  leaving  Fort  Conger,  August  9, 
1883,  retreating  soulhwaril  with  \)a.ny  of  twen'y-livc  (:!5),  all  well,  reaeheil  Cape  Uaird  August  10,  and 
propose  leaving  for  Littleton  Island  (and  perhaps  later  Carey  Islands)  at  11  tj.  ni.,  August  10,  1883,  with 
steam-launch  and  three  boats. 

Three  photographic  maps  siiowing  discoveries  inclosed. 

A.  W.  Gkekly, 
First  LieHlfnaiit,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant,  Commanding, 


Appendix  No.  105. — Rccon^'^  left  in  abandoned  boats. 

Record  left  by  Lieutenant  Greely,  conmianding  I'olar  Kxpedicion,  en  route  to  Littleton  Island,  with  ultimate 

intention  of  reaching  SK.  Carey  Island. 

I  abandoned  Ft.  Conger,  G.  L.,  August  9,  1883,  at  3  p.  in.,  with  party  of  twenty-five — all  well.  Reached 
Cape  Baird  Aug.  loth  and  left  same  evening  at  near  midnight,  launch  Lady  Grei-ly  towing  boats  Valomiis, 
Bniumont,  and  whale-boat.     On  board  5,500  pounds  coal  and  over  40  days'  rations. 

Took.up  enough  at  Cape  Cracroft  to  make  45  days'  rations.  Had  foggy  weather  with  snow  and  met 
some  ice.  Reached  Carl  Ritter  Bay  about  10  p.  m.  Aug.  12,  and  took  up  cache,  leaving  at  once  with 
about  50  days'  complete  rations.  Stopped  by  floe  about  80°  43'  N.  morning  Aug.  13th.  Took  up  depot 
of  240  rations  at  Cape  Collinson  Aug.  22d,  and  at  i  p.  m.,  .''.ug.  23d,  we  tied  up  to  ice-foot  about  2 
miles  south  of  Cape  Norton  Shaw,  stopped  by  dense  rubble  ice  which  exteniled  as  far  si'  :th  as  could  be 
seen.  All  well  at  that  time.  Reached  Cape  Hawkes  Aug.  26th;  took  up  168  pounds  potatoes,  in  pounds 
pickles,  250  pounds  bread,  342  stjarine.  Left  same  afternoon  and  were  beset  that  night  in  about  73"  W. 
79°  22'  N.  in  an  attempt  to  reach  Victoria  Head  by  direct  course.  All  well  Aug.  27,  1883.  No  shij) 
•  T  sign  of  a  ship  or  of  depots  for  us  have  been  seen,  although  the  shore  has  been  carefully  followed  and 
watched.  A  NFl.  gale  forced  us  down  to  79°  00.6'  N.  (obs.)  74°  45'  \V  (D,  R.)  when  temperature  fell 
Sept.  8th  to  — o°.8  |  — 18.2"  C],  freezing  in  the  party.  It  is  my  intention  to  abandon  launch  Lady  Greely  and 
one  boat  Monday  Sept.  loth,  and  reach  Cape  Sabine  by  sledge,  with  two  boats  via  Cocked  Hat  Island. 
Party  all  well  and  in  good  spirits  at  date.     Have  about  40  days'  complete  rations. 

Sunday  2  p.  in.,  Sept.  9,  1883,  79°  00.6'  N.,  74°  45'  W. 

\.  W.  Gkeelv, 
First  Lt.,  c,tli  Car.,  A.  S.  O.  and  Asst,Comd'i;  Expedition. 

Copy  of  above  left  on  steam  launch  and  in  Valorous. 

It  is  my  intention  as  soon  as  se[)aration  shall  be  safe  to  send  an  officer  and  two  men  to  Brevoort  Island  to 

obtain  reconl  which  shouUl  be  there  ot"  the  movement  of  ships  and  location  of  depots  this  year.     If  boats 

have  been  left  there  it  will  greatly  facilitate  our  movements  and  increase  our  chances  of  safety. 

[A.  W.  G.j 


;ri| 


;  ;i 


Appendix  No.  106. — Records  found  on  lircvoort  Island  (deposited  by  Lieutenant  Garlington 

and  Private  Beebe). 

U.  S.  Relief  Expedition,  Cape -Sabine,  24///  fuly,  1883. 
The  steamer  Frutew  was  wrecked  in  the  ice  pack  midway  between  this  point  and  Cape  Albert  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  23(1  inst.,  while  attempting  to  reach  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  She  stood  the  enormous  ice  press- 
ure nobly  for  a  time,  but  had  to  finally  succomb  \sic\  to  this  measureless  force.  The  time  from  her  being 
beset  to  going  down  so  short  but  few  jjrovisions  were  saved.  A  depot  was  landed  from  floe  at  a  point  about 
3  miles  from  point  of  Cape  Sabine  as  you  turn  into  Buchanan  Straif.  Here  were  i)ut  500  rations  bread, 
sleeping-bags,  tea,  and  a  lot  of  canned  stuff — no  time  to  classify.  This  cache  is  about  30  feet  [9'"]  from 
water-line — 12  feet  [3.6'"]  above — on  west  side  of  little  cove  under  a  steep  difi".  Rai)idly  closing  ice  pre- 
vented its  being  marked  by  flag  staff  or  otherwise.  Have  not  been  able  to  land  there  since.  A  cache  of 
240  rations  in  same  vicinity  left  by  expedition  of  '8i — visited  by  me  and  found  in  good  order  except  boat 


352 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I;- 1' 


broken  by  bears.  There  is  a  cache  of  clotliing  on  point  of  Cape  S.abine  opposite  Brevort  [su]  Island— in 
jamb  of  rocks — and  covered  with  rubber  blankets.  English  depot  on  small  island  in  damaged  condition  not 
visited  by  me.  Cache  on  northern  point  Littleton  Island,  boat  at  Cape  Isabella.  All  saved  from  /'/v/ei/s. 
The  U.  S.  Steame*-  Yanli-  is  on  her  way  to  Littleton  IsKind,  with  orders  not  to  enter  ice.  A  Swedish  steamer 
will  try  to  reach  Cape  Yjrk  during  this  month.  I  will  endeavor  to  communicate  with  their  vessel  at  once, 
and  everything  in  the  power  of  man  will  be  done  to  rescue  the  brave  men  at  Fort  Conger  from  their  peril- 
ous position. 

The  crew  of  J'ioteiis  consisted  of  Capt.  Pike  and  21  men;  my  own  party,  Lieut.  J.  C  Colwell,  U. 
S.  Navy,  Acting  Assist.  Surg.  J.  S.  Harrison,  5  enlisted  men  of  the  line,  2  Sig.  Serv.  men,  3  Newfoundlanders, 
and  two  Eskimo. 

It  is  not  within  my  power  to  express  one-tithe  of  my  sorrow  and  regret  at  this  fatal  blow  to  my  efforts 
to  reach  Lieut.  Greely.  I  will  leave  for  east  shore  just  as  soon  as  'tis  possible  and  endeavor  open  com- 
munication. 

E.  A.  Gari.ington, 

ist  Lt;  "jth  Cav.,  Comiig. 

2  Siderial  [sk]  chros  [chronometers]  1692  &  1693  and  2  Station  Barometers  in  casche  [cache]. 


I     I 


f  . 


il 


I  ■ 


S.  S.  Neptune,  L.  F.  Bay  Supi'lv  Expedition, 

"LviNG-To"  Harhok,  Cape  Sabine,  August  18,  1882. 

The  Neptune,  under  orders  from  (leneral  W.  B.  Hazen,  Chief  Signal  Officer,  U.  S.  Army,  and  conveying 
supplies  and  men  to  Lieut.  Greely,  Discovery  Harbor,  Grinnell  Land,  arrived  here  at  one  o'clock  this  morning 
and  dropped  anchor  in  14  fathoms. 

We  left  St.  Johns,  N.  F.,  July  8th;  Disco,  July  20th,  and  Pandora  Harbor,  where  we  had  lain  ?,t  anchor 
since  the  29th  July,  awaiting  an  opening  through  the  barrier  extending  across  the  Sound  from  Cape  Inglefield 
to  Rosse  Bay,  on  the  morning  of  the  7th  inst. 

Having  penetrated  as  far  Northward  as  Lat.  79'  19'  (Long.  73^^  20'  VV.),  the  ship  continued  closely 
beset  until  yesterday  morning,  the  17th,  when  we  worked  free  and  stood  across  to  the  east  side,  where  we 
found  the  ice  heavy  and  close  in  shore. 

Since  our  arrival  at  Pandora  Harbor,  strong  southerly  and  S.  westerly  (true)  winds  have  prevailed,  keep- 
ing the  ice  firmly  closed  above  us.  We  will  remain  in  this  vicinity  as  long  as  the  season  will  permit,  awaiting 
an  opportunity  to  resume  the  voyage. 

In  the  event  of  failure  to  reach  Lieut.  Greely's  party,  depots  will  be  established  at  the  northernmost 
points  attained  on  the  west  side  Smith  Sound  or  Kennedy  Clhannel,  and  on  Littleton  Island.  A  whale-boat 
will  be  left  at  the  northmost  depot,  and  one  at  Cape  Prescott. 

This  morning  Captain  Nare's  Record,  dated  August  i,  1875  (a  cojjy  of  which  is  enclosed),  was  found 
in  the  cairn  on  the  summit  of  Brevoort  Island. 

The  original  will  be  forwarded  through  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  U.  S.  A.,  to  the  Secretary  of  the 
Admiralty,  London. 

All  are  well. 

W.  M.  Bebee,  ]x.,  [Private],  G.  S.,  U.  S.  A., 
In  charge  0/  Expedition. 
Freu'k  II.  Hoadley,  M.  D., 

•  A,  A.  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A. 
William  Sopp, 

Capt.  Neptune. 


S.  S.  Neptune,  Paver  Harbor  (Cape  Sabine),  August  23,  1882. 
Sir:  The  Neptune,  with  men  and  supplies  for  your  party,  sailed  from  St.  Johns,  N.  F.,  July  i8th,  and 
reached  Godhavn  on  Hie  17th,  having  been  detained  for  forty-eight  hours  off  Cape  Farewell  by  heavy 
field-ice.  Excepting  the  sleeping-bags  and  matak,  all  the  supplies  required  from  Greenland  were  secured. 
Through  the  courtesy  of  the  officials  at  Godhavn,  four  (4)  sleeping-bags  (their  individual  property)  and  a 
small  quantity  (47  lbs.)  of  matak  were  obtained. 


il 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


353 


Leaving  Disco  on  the  20th,  we  were  beset  for  forty-eight  hours  oflf  Cape  York,  and  on  the  morning  of 
the  29th  were  stopped  by  an  impenetrable  barrier,  exteu'iing  from  Cape  Inglefield  to  Rosse  Bay,  across  the 
Sound.  A  strong  S.  westerly  gale  compelled  us  to  ieW  back  to  Pandora  Harbor  for  anchorage,  where 
we  remained  until  August  7th,  when  we  succeeded  in  reaching  a  position  off  Bache  Island,  where  the  ship 
was  again  caught  and  beset  for  nine  days. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th,  taking  advantage  of  a  slight  opening,  we  worked  our  way  clear  and  stood 
across  to  the  east  side;  but  finding  no  channel,  returned  and  anchored  in  this  bay — between  Cape  Sabine 
and  Brevoort  Island. 

In  a  cairn  on  the  summit  of  Brevoort  Island,  Captain  Nare's  record,  dated  August  ist,  1875,  was  found, 
and  on  a  long,  low  island  lying  near  to  and  nearly  due  west  (true)  from  Brevoort  Island,  a  small  depot  left 
by  Captain  Stephenson  of  the  Discovcty,  with  a  record  dated  July  30th,  1875.  This  depot,  which  has  been 
disturbed  and  scattered,  apparently  by  animals,  was  restored  as  securely  as  possible,  and  marked  by  placing 
upright  in  the  rocks  two  oars  found  there  with  the  remains  of  a  skin  boat.  The  stores,  consisting  of  five 
casks,  containing  biscuit,  chocolate  and  sugar,  tea  and  sugar,  stearine,  wicks,  potatoes,  onion  powder, 
tobacco,  matches,  salt,  pepper,  and  two  tin  cans  of  bacon  (40  lbs.  each),  were  found  in  fairly  good  con- 
dition. Three  small  spirit  casks  were  leaky  and  empty.  Coming  from  the  northward,  and  Brevoort  Island 
fairly  opening,  this  small  island  can  be  plainly  seen  between  Cape  Sabine  and  Brevoort  Island. 

We  leave  this  harbor  immediately,  in  the  hope  of  reaching  at  least  as  far  north  as  Bache  Island,  when, 
if  we  can  get  no  further,  I  shall  establish  your  depot  "A",  and  leave  the  second  whaleboat  at  Cape  Prescott. 

I  prepare  this  record  now  in  anticipation  of  having  little  time  to  land  and  establish  the  depot,  as  the 
winds  which  have  prevailed  for  the  past  two  weeks  from  the  SW.  render  position  in  the  ice  precarious. 

20  Miles  due  East  (true)  from  Bache  Island,  August  2%th. 

Every  effort  to  reach  land  on  this  shore  above  Cape  Sabine  has  thus  far  proved  utterly  unsuccessful, 
and  as  the  new  ice  is  forming  every  night  faster  than  it  disappears  during  the  day,  I  fear  that  I  cannot 
establish  your  depot  "A"  as  high  up  even  as  Bache  Island,  nor  can  I  get  a  whale-boat  to  Cape  Prescott. 
To-day  I  will  run  across  and  land  stores  and  lumber  at  Littleton  Island,  and  then  wait  until  compelled 
by  lateness  of  season  to  fall  back,  in  effort  to  establish  depots  and  land  whale-boats  where  they  will  be  of 
value  to  you. 

Unless  the  northmost  depot  shall  be  in  sight  of  Cape  Hawkes,  I  will  return  your  mail  to  the  States, 
excepting  papers  and  periodicals,  which  will  be  left  at  Littleton  Island. 
All  your  friends  were  well  when  I  left  Washington. 

I  cannot  express  my  regret  at  the  failure  of  all  my  efforts  to  reach  you,  or  to  carry  out  fully  your 
instructions  of  last  year. 

Trusting  that  you  may  be  providentially  protected,  and  return  in  safety, 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obt.  servant,  * 

W.  M.  Beebe,  Jr., 
\PrivcUe\,  General  Service,  U.  S.  A,, 

In  charge  of  Supply  Expedition, 
To  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv,  U.  S.  Army, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition.  "  . 


■■1,1 


♦       ■  S.  S.  Neptune,  Aug.  29,  1882. 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Comdg.  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition:  '  - 

The  Neptune  has  been  in  Smith's  Sound  endeavoring  to  reach  you  since  July  29th,  but  unable  to  pen- 
etrate the  ice.  Strong  winds  and  gales  from  S.  W.  have  prevailed,  but  have  not  freed  the  shore.  Highest 
latitude  reached,  Aug.  10th,  79°  20',  with  eight  (8)  miles  of  impassable  ice  between  us  and  land  (Bache 
Island). 

We  land  a  boat  here  with  great  difficulty.     Shall  hold  on  until  compelled  by  lateness  of  season  to  fall 
bsick,  in  the  hope  of  carrying  out  your  wishes  regarding  depots  and  whale-boats. 
H.  Mis.  393 23 


354 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


A  party  of  nine  (9)  natives  were  found  on  Cape  Ohlsen  yesterday  while  looking  for  a  place  to  cache 
supplies  on  Littleton  Island.  If  they  are  still  there  when  we  return,  I  think  best  to  cache  supplies  on  north 
side  (true)  of  Littleton  Island,  opposite  Mt.  Carey  Island. 

Your  mail  will  be  returned  to  the  StateS;  as  directed  in  your  letter  of  last  year.  All  your  friends  well 
when  I  left  Washington. 

I  shall  recommend  and  earnestly  urge  that  next  year's  relief  ship  may  leave  St.  John's  as  early  as  the 
middle  of  June. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  ob't  servant, 

W.  M.  Beebe,  Jr., 
\Private\,  G.  S.,  U.  S.  A.,  in  Charge  of  Exped'n, 


iJ^il 


:i 


'\         :i 


Appendix  No.  108. — Sergeant  Frederick's  report  of  November  journey  to  Cape  Isabella. 

Washington,  D.  C,  Noiiember  25,  1884. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  respectfully  submit  the  following  report  of  a  journey  made  by  Rice,  Linn, 
Elison,  and  myself,  under  your  orders,  for  the  purpose  of  securing  144  lbs.  of  meat  left  on  Cape  Isabella, 
in  1875,  by  Sir  George  Nares,  commanding  the  English  expedition. 

November  2,  1883. — We  left  Camp  Clay  about  8  a.  m.  Our  equipment  was  as  follows:  A  light  sledge, 
one  four-man  sleeping-bag,  one  tent-fly,  one  Springfield  rifle,  an  ax,  and  8  oz.  of  bread  and  8  oz.  of  meat 
per  man  per  day ;  lamp  and  pot  for  cooking,  with  alcohol  for  fuel.  The  morning  being  very  hazy,  making 
traveling  very  hard  for  the  first  few  miles;  but,  as  we  approached  Cocked  Hat  Island  the  day  cleared  up 
and  traveling  was  very  good,  and  as  we  reached  Rice's  Straits  it  began  to  get  dusk  again,  but  about  one  hour 
later,  when  we  stood  before  the  hunter's  camp  and  cast  our  eyes  on  a  beautiful  plump  seal,  weighing  about 
80  or  90  lbs.,  I  am  sure  it  was  good  cure  for  sore  eyes,  for  we  imagined  that  we  could  see  a  mile  farther. 
We  could  see  in  the  distance  Long  coming  to  meet  us.  The  poor  fellow  was  covered  with  frost,  but  he 
smiled  just  the  same  as  he  would  if  he  was  in  the  land  of  plenty,  and  told  us  that  his  rations  were  gone 
and  that  the  Eskimos  was  discontented.  I  told  Long  that  he  had  better  go  in,  as  the  days  were  getting 
so  dark  and  the  temperature  so  low  that  it  made  it  quite  dangerous  to  stand  over  a  seal-hole  all  day,  and  I 
also  told  him  that  the  commander  expected  him.  We  then  bid  our  dear  companions  good-bye,  and  we 
plodded  along  for  a  few  miles  farther  and  went  into  camp.  After  taking  a  light  supper  we  retired  to  cur 
bag  and  was  soon  in  the  land  of  dreams. 

November  3,  1883. — Broke  camp  at  7.30  a.m.  Very  dark  and  foggy,  making  traveling  very  hard. 
About  1 1  o'clock  we  reached  a  small  lake  on  the  divide  between  Elison  Bay  and  Rosse  Bay,  where  we 
halted  for  a  few  moments.  Dropping  down  in  Elison  Bay  we  found  traveling  good.  We  reached  Eskimo 
Point  about  6  p.  m.,  very  tired,  but  every  one  feeling  that  we  could  make  Cape  Isabella  to-morrow. 

November  4,  1883. — Broke  camp  about  6.30  a.  m.,  every  one  feeling  good  after  their  night's  rest,  and 
also  believing  that  they  would  be  able  to  reach  their  destination  before  night ;  bat  about  10  a.  m.  we  found 
our  traveling  growing  worse  every  step  we  made  to  the  south.  About  12  m.  we  found  Elison  eating  snow 
and  ice,  and  Rice  spoke  to  him,  but  of  no  avail.  We  led  more  to  the  west  for  an  easier  route,  but 
it  seems  no  matter  what  way  we  headed  the  traveling  was  all  the  same.  About  3.30  p.  m.  Linn  and  Elison 
complained  of  being  tired  and  wanted  to  go  into  camp,  but  we  kept  on  until  it  got  so  dark  that  it  was 
impossible  to  travel  any  longer.  So  we  camped  about  6  p.  m.,  every  one  so  tired  and  worn  out  that  it  was 
impossible  to  move  our  limbs.  How  far  or  how  close  we  was  to  Cape  Isabella  or  the  coast  line  was  unknown 
to  us,  owing  to  drifting  snow,  which  had  completely  obscured  the  surrounding  country. 

November  7,  1883. — Broke  camp  about  7  a.  m.,  the  weather  fine  and  clear.  We  got  a  drink  of  tea  and 
started  for  Cape  Isabella.  We  took  our  sledge  and  equipment  with  us  part  of  the  way,  and  then  the 
only  suitable  place  that  we  found  to  drop  the  equipment  was  on  the  summit  of  a  glacier  where  we  intended 
to  camp  the  coming  night.  We  then  went  on  with  the  sledge  only,  as  our  track  was  very  tortuous,  and, 
moreover,  we  had  not  a  foot  of  level  traveling.  Huge  masses  of  ice,  from  20  to  40  feet  [6  to  i2'"J  in  height, 
were  heaped  together,  around  which  the  fierce  winds  of  winter  had  piled  the  drifting  snow.  In  crossing  these 
ridges  our  sledge  would  frequently  capsize  and  roll  over  and  over;  sometimes  the  sledge  would  be  half  buried 
in  the  soft  snow,  mto  which  it  had  fallen,  in  which  case  its  liberation  would  be  attended  with  great  difficulty. 
We  reached  Cape  Isabella  about  2  p.  m.,  and,  after  ascending  about  1,000  feet  [305'"],  we  found  the  meat. 


Appendix  No.  107. — Plan  of  winter  quarters  at  Camp  Clay. 


Stone  Init  about  25'  ><;  17'.  Wall  3j^  feet  high.  lioat  extended  from  one  end  of  wall  to  tlie  other,  and  allowed  one  to 
stand  up  between  thwarts,  in  passage  way.  Oars  inserted  in  liolos  cut  in  gunwale  and  ends  resting  on  side  walls  allowed  house 
to  be  covered  with  canvas,  which  was  also  partly  supported  l)y  interwoven  ropes.  .V  and  1!,  upriglu  su[i]i()rls  to  boat :  on  A,  lamp 
for  light  and  melting  ice;  on  li,  barometer.  Cooking  done  in  center  of  ]iassagc.  Twelve  men  Iiad  space  6'  X  2'  l"  for 
sleeping  and  living  iiuarters;  thirteen,  owing  to  Elison's  condition,  had  only  l'  10"  x  6'  for  sleeping  and  living  (juarters. 


% 


■  ?'      ! 


1 

1' 

4 

[u 

! 

1        *^l 

ii. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  15AY  EXrEDITION. 


355 


We  picked  up  the  cache  at  once  and  started  for  the  sledge,  which  had  been  left  at  the  extreme  point  of  the 
capp.  Rice  and  myself  was  the  first  ones  to  reach  the  sledge.  We  started  back  at  once  to  help  Linn  and 
Elison  down  with  their  load,  and  we  started  back  as'  soon  .is  time  would  allow  us. 

As  you  see  from  my  writing  that  our  road  was  rough,  but  the  sky  was  clear  and  the  moon  was  shining, 
and  from  the  elevation  to  which  we  had  ascended — 1,000  feet  [305'"] — we  saw  open  water  to  the  southward 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  extend.  Waves  with  white  caps  came  rolling  in  to  the  very  cape  [Isabella]  itself;  a 
vessel  could  have  navigated  here  without  difficulty,  and  even  at  this  season,  could  we  have  embarked  at  this 
point,  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  we  all  would  have  reached  our  homes  in  safety.  We  were  in  hopes  that  we 
should  reach  our  camp  all  right,  but  remember  that  we  traveled  all  day  on  a  small  cup  of  tea  and  worked 
hard  and  had  to  face  strong  western  wind,  and  we  found  to  our  sorrow  after  traveling  12  or  14  hours,  on 
reaching  our  camp  on  the  glacier,  that  Elison  had  frozen  both  of  his  hands  and  feet.  Now,  it  must  be 
remembered  that  we  had  no  shelter  of  any  kind,  nor  were  we  able  to  light  a  match  or  to  keep  the  lamp 
burning,  and  without  a  mouthful  of  warm  food  we  retired  to  our  frozen  sleeping-bag,  which  was  no  more 
nor  less  than  a  sheet  of  ice.  Now  I  took  one  of  Elison's  hands  and  placed  it  between  my  thighs,  while  Rice 
took  the  other,  and  this  is  the  way  we  drew  the  frost  from  his  poor  frozen  limbs.  The  poor  fellow  cried  all 
night  with  pain.    This  has  been  one  of  the  worst  nights  that  I  ever  spent  in  the  Arctic. 

November  8,  1883. — We  got  up  about  7  a.  m.  without  having  slept  during  the  entire  night.  Elison 
looking  very  bad,  we  got  some  warm  food,  picked  up  our  traps  and  started  on  our  homeward  journey.  The 
morning  was  very  hazy,  making  traveling  very  bad.  Elison  got  along  very  nice  for  the  first  few  hours,  but 
when  he  began  to  weaken,  his  steps  grew  slower,  and  the  result  was  that  his  hands  and  feet  both  frosted. 
Now  it  became  unsafe  to  let  him  travel  behind  the  sledge  alone,  and  so  I  took  the  poor  fellow  on  my  arm 
and  had  almost  to  carry  him,  for  his  legs  became  as  stiff  as  sticks  of  cord  wood,  and  he  was  unable  to  handle 
them.  This  is  the  closest  I  have  ever  been  hitched  in  my  life.  If  there  is  anything  that  will  try  the  mettle  of 
men  it  is  to  put  them  in  soft  snow  and  hummock  ice  and  a  nie-radily  over  their  shoulders;  but  nevertheless 
we  stood  it  like  men  and  I  never  heard  a  murmur  of  discontent.  We  traveled  on  till  about  5  p.  m.,  when 
It  became  so  dark  that  it  forced  us  to  go  into  camp.  We  unloaded  our  frozen  sleeping-bag  and  then  put  the 
frozen  man  into  it.  Rice  and  Linn  wedged  themselves  on  each  side  of  him  and  I  stepped  out  to  prepare 
some  warm  food  for  them;  it  was  as  dark  as  pitch.  A  strong  breeze  from  the  northwest.  The  air  was  filled 
with  snow  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  of  difficulty  that  I  got  some  warm  food  for  my  poor  starving  and  frozen 
companions.  Had  we  a  little  shelter  only,  our  work  would  not  have  been  so  trying,  but  to  halt  and  lay 
your  sick  on  an  open  field  of  ice  and  nothing  to  shelter  them  from  the  Arctic  breeze,  that  has  a  fair  sweep 
over  this  open  plain,  was  trying  to  us  indeed. 

Nwember  9,  1883. — I  got  up  this  morning  about  7  a.  m.  to  prepare  some  warm  food  for  my  comrades, 
which  they  enjoyed  very  much,  and  after  Rice  and  Linn  got  uj),  we  found  that  Elison  was  altogether  help- 
less, and  to  save  Elison's  life  it  became  necessary  to  abandon  the  meat  which  we  had  labored  so  to  save,  and 
marked  the  place  well  with  a  Springfield  rifle.  We  got  along  very  well  for  the  first  few  hours,  but  as  we  all 
grew  weaker  every  hour  with  a  helpless  man  on  our  hands,  you  can  imagine  our  progress;  but  after  battling 
along  for  about  9  or  10  hours  we  reached  Eskimo  Point,  where  we  camped  for  the  night.  We  com- 
menced at  once  to  cut  some  wood  from  the  ice-boat  to  thaw  Elison  out  with  and  to  dry  his  clothing,  which 
was  a  perfect  sheet  of  ice,  and  in  the  mean  time  we  cooked  our  supper,  though  the  poor  fellow  suffered  when 
his  feet,  hands,  and  face  began  to  thaw  from  the  artificial  heat.  It  was  enough  to  bring  the  strongest  to 
tears.  Rice  and  myself  did  not  retire  until  about  i  a.  m.  We  tried  to  get  everything  in  shape  for  the  fol- 
lowing day. 

November  10,  1883. — Broke  camp  about  8  a.  m.,  Elison  looking  much  better.  The  morning  being 
very  cold  we  started  Elison  out  at  once  to  keep  from  freezing,  but  we  found  that  he  could  not  keep  on  the 
track;  so  Linn  went  with  him  while  Rice  and  myself  packed  our  traps  on  the  sledge  and  followed.  When 
we  caught  up  we  found  that  Elison  bad  frozen  his  face  and  hands  again.  Traveling  was  very  heavy  and 
Linn  had  to  come  and  help  to  drag  the  sledge.  Now  we  tried  to  keep  Elison  in  front  of  us,  but  of  no  avail. 
He  would  stagger  off  to  one  or  the  other,  but  it  seems  that  every  moment  the  frost  would  eat  its  way  deeper 
in  the  poor  man's  flesh,  and  we  stood  helpless  at  his  side. 

The  load  was  too  heavy  for  two  men  to  drag,  and  it  was  impossible  to  let  poor  Elison  travel  by  him- 
self. So  we  fastened  a  rope  to  his  arm  and  then  to  the  sledge,  and  the  three  of  us  took  to  the  traces  and 
tried  to  make  time,  but  every  few  rods  the  poor  fellow  would  fall,  and  then  sometimes  before  we  could  see 
him  we  would  drag  him  for  several  feet.    There  is  no  person  that  can  imagine  the  way  that  poor  man  suf- 


:, 


■.  , 

■J 

if' 


i'-i 


I 


356 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


fered.  Now  when  we  got  in  Elison  Bay,  wind  blowing  a  hurricane,  and  it  getting  very  dark,  and  we  saw 
that  there  is  no  earthly  hope  to  try  to  drag  along,  for  wc  see  that  poor  Elison  would  perish  on  our  hands 
before  we  could  get  him  to  Camp  Clay,  so  here  we  went  into  camp.  I  was  to  remain  with  Klison  and 
Linn  in  the  sleci)ing  bag.  Rice  and  myself  tried  to  make  a  fire  or  light  the  lamp  to  warm  some  food,  but 
as  the  wind  was  blowing  so  hard  and  we  could  find  no  shelter,  we  both  frosted  our  fingers  and  had  to  give 
it  up,  and  poor  Rice  took  a  piece  of  frozen  meat  and  started  for  Camp  Clay,  which  was  about  15  miles.  As 
Rice  bid  us  good-bye  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  we  clasped  his  hand  and  wished  him  speed.  Now  I  took  the 
ax  and  cut  a  small  piece  of  frozen  meat  for  my  comrades,  and  then  got  in  the  sleeping-bag  to  put  in  the 
wretched  night.  Linn  laid  on  one  side  of  Elison  and  I  on  the  other  trying  to  keep  him  warm,  but  as  we 
laid  here  helpless  and  shivering  with  the  cold  and  poor  Elison  groaning  with  hunger  and  pains,  so  you  can 
imagine  how  we  felt  lying  powerless  at  his  side.  Linn  was  a  strong  and  able-bodied  man,  and  he  was  very 
weak  and  helpless  by  the  mental  strain  caused  by  the  suffering  of  Elison.  In  fact  I  was  afraid  that  his 
mind  would  be  impaired.  At  one  time  I  had  to  use  all  my  persuasive  powers  to  keep  him  in  the  sleeping- 
bag.  We  were  but  a  very  few  hours  in  the  bag  when  it  became  frozen  so  hard  that  we  could  not  turn  in  it, 
and  in  the  one  position  we  had  to  lie  for  about  18  hours,  and  to  our  great  relief  and  joy  we  heard  Brainard's 
cheering  voice  at  our  side.  There  was  nothing  more  welcome  than  the  presence  of  that  noble  man  who  had 
come  in  advance  of  the  party  with  some  brandy  for  Elison  an<l  some  food  for  Linn  and  myself.  After  pre- 
paring some  warm  food  and  making  some  warm  tea  and  giving  it  to  us  he  said  that  he  would  return  to  meet 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  party  and  return  as  quickly  as  possible.  Brainard  was  accompanied  by  Fred- 
erik  [Christiansen],  the  Eskimo. 

Now  we  felt  much  better  to  know  that  Rice  had  got  back  all  right  and  that  a  relief  party  would  soon 
be  here. '  It  was  not  long  before  Brainard  returned  again;  he  gave  us  some  more  warm  food  and  in  about 
2  hours  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  party  were  with  us.  It  was  a  Godsend  to  be  released  from  this  prison. 
It  was  impossible  for  them  to  get  us  out  of  the  bag  the  way  we  got  in,  so  it  became  necessary  to  chop  the 
top  of  the  bag  off  with  a  hatchet  to  release  us.  We  were  unable  to  stand  alone;  our  clothing  was  as  stiff 
as  boards ;  our  companions  helped  us  to  dress  and  gave  us  dry  gloves  and  stockings  to  put  on.  Linn  and 
myself  began  walking  around  to  limber  up.  Now  as  we  were  no  use  to  the  party  they  wanted  us  to  go  in, 
as  they  had  to  move  very  slowly  with  the  frozen  man  on  the  sledge.  Linn  and  myself  started  for  camp,  and 
we  got  along  very  well  until  we  reached  Buchanan  Strait,  where  I  broke  through  and  got  my  feet  wet.  I 
noticed  shordy  after  that  Linn  was  eating  snow  and  his  steps  became  much  slower.  I  was  frightened  that 
it  would  be  another  Elison  case.  I  spoke  to  him  about  it  and  showed  him  the  importance  of  abstaining 
from  eating  snow,  and  in  a  few  hours  we  brought  up  at  Camp  Clay.  I  am  sure  that  there  is  not  a  reader 
of  this  report  that  could  find  a  parlor  half  so  inviting  in  his  city  as  this  small  ice  hut  was  to  me.  As  we 
entered  we  found  our  companions  with  stretched  arms  to  welcome  us,  and  our  commander  ordered  the 
hospital  steward  to  give  us  rum,  and  then  Biederbick  took  off  some  of  our  wet  clothing  and  gave  us  dry  ones 
to  put  on,  and  after  getting  some  warm  food  I  assure  you  that  I  felt  much  better,  and  I  will  never  forget  the 
kindness  that  was  bestowed  on  me  by  my  comrades  on  that  eventful  day. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

Julius  R.  Frederick, 
Sergeant,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 

Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

Commanding  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


Appendix  No.    109. — Lieutenant  Kislingbtiry'' s  letter,  February  ip,  1884. 

Camp  Clay,  February  19,  1884. 

Lieutenant  :  Ten  days  ago  I  agreed  to  give  you  certain  suggestions  in  reference  to  our  preparations 
for  changing  to  Greenland  side,  and  I  beg  permission  to  submit  the  following  in  reference  to  that  subject, 
and  our  circumstances  generally : 

The  course  I  would  then  have  suggested  has  already  been  adopted — that  of  placing  in  the  management 
and  supervision  of  making  hand  and  foot  gear,  and  repairing  of  sleeping-bags,  Private  Fredericks,  who, 
from  his  former  excellent  work  in  these  matters,  and  past  week's  successful  efforts,  is,  I  think,  the  best  possible 
arrangements 


THK  JiADY  FUANKMX  HAY  FAI'KDITIOX. 


357 


Without  going  into  details,  circumstances  different  to  what  we  ex|)ected  have  so  changed  the  original 
plans  decided  upon  at  the  time  of  entering  on  reduced  rations,  that  the  original  intentions  (crossing  to 
Littleton  Island  the  first  of  March,  for  instance),  need,  I  feel,  reconsideration.  You  have  doubtless  nicely 
considered  and  arranged  everything  satisfactorily,  and  as  well  as  can  be  for  our  future,  but  notwithstanding 
this,  I  feel  it  my  duty  to  make  my  ideas  at  this  time  matters  of  record,  and  beg  you  will  not  consider  me 
as  interfering  in  your  prerogatives  as  commander.  The  open  water  at  date  permits  no  communication  with 
Littleton  Island,  and  we  cannot  reasonably  expect  relief  from,  or  to  cross  to,  that  point  on  the  ist  March, 
as  before  arranged. 

There  is  no  certainty  as  to  the  time  we  can  expect  the  channel  to  close,  and  although  we  have  every 
reason  to  congratulate  ourselves  on  our  present  favorable  condition,  considering  our  probably  unprecedented 
experience,  we  have,  at  date,  two  invalids,  both  of  whom  will  probably  have  to  be  hauled  by  sledge,  and 
there  are  several  others  of  the  party  whose  strength  cannot  be  safely  cotinted  ujjon  even  to  walk  across. 
Briefly,  I  do  not  believe  it  possible  for  the  party,  on  our  present  means,  to  ever  expect  to  cross  as  a  party  at 
one  time,  and  I  ^ee  no  other  way  than  to  arrange  and  hope  to  get  relief  by  a  party  from  the  other  side,  or 
to  prolong  our  lives  by  extending  food  longer  than  we  first  intended. 

With  this  end  in  view,  I  would  advocate  no  further  increase  of  our  food.  Finally,  if  relief  from  the 
Greenland  coast  does  not  reach  us,  I  see  nothing  left  to  do,  soon  as  we  find  water  space  closed,  but  for  a 
few  of  the  stronger  of  us  to  go  to  Littleton  Island  with  one  of  the  sledges,  get  supplies  or  game,  as  we  can 
there,  and  bring  to  those  here  who  are  too  weak  to  cross;  expecting,  of  course,  to  open  communication  and 
get  help  from  the  Eskimos.  One  at  least  of  our  natives  should  go  with  this  party,  and  feeling  myself  to  be 
one  of  the  strongest,  I  would  expect  to  be  sent  in  charge  of  the  same. 
Very  truly  and  respectfully, 

Freu.  F.  Kislingburv, 
Second  Lieutenant,  Eleventh  Infantry,  A.  S.  0. 

Lieutenant  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Commanding  Expedition, 


Appendix  No.  no. — Private  Long^ s  journey  into  Hayes  Sound. 

[*  Extract  from  the  journal  of  Lieut.  A.  W,  Greely,  referring  to  discoveries  made  by  Private  Francis  Long  in  Hayes  Sound  during 

March,  1884.] 
*«««  *  *  «  «  « 

March  14,  1884,  Friday. — Private  Long  returned  at  7.15  p.  m.  last  night,  having  seen  during  his  three 
daya'  absence  no  signs  of  game,  except  a  fox  track  which  had  been  made  across  his  trail  in  Rice's  Strait 
during  his  absence.  He  was  driven  in  by  not  having  been  able  to  get  into  his  sleeping-bag  during  his 
absence.  Leaving  Camp  Clay  at  9  a.  m.  of  the  12th,  lie  overtook  Sergeant  Rice  and  Private  lillis  hauling 
his  sledge  at  the  east  end  of  Cocked  Hat  Island.  Saw  a  raven,  but  was  unable  to  get  a  shot.  At  11.30 
a.  m.  took  sledge  with  Christiansen  at  the  west  end  of  Cocked  Hat  Island  and  started  towards  Alexandra 
Harbor.  Reached  Cape  Rutherford  at  a  p.  m.  and  found  that  its  apparent  end  was  an  island,  about  800 
yards  [732""]  distant  from  land.  This  island  was  crossed  by  him  on  his  outward  trip.  About  two  miles 
southeast  (true)  passed  a  very  low  island,  which  was  about  i  V2  miles  distant  from  land.  Just  before  reach- 
ing Cape  Viele  he  saw  u  valley,  which,  sloping  gently  upward,  appeared  to  furnish  a  route  towards  Twin 
Glacier  Valley.  He  concluded  to  take  the  valley,  as  the  snow  along  the  ice-foot  was  becoming  deep.  The 
ice  to  this  point  was  all  smooth  and  appeared  to  be  new  ice.  The  ice  in  Buchanan  Strait  was  as  far  as 
could  be  seen  smooth  and  favorable  for  traveling — level  floes  and  few  or  no  hummocks.  Before  reaching 
the  valley  above  mentioned  he  reached  a  camp  on  west  side  of  the  small  island  southeast  of  Viele ;  at  7 
p.  m.  cooked  supper,  and  at  8  p.  m.  attempted  to  turn  into  bag.  Found  sleeping-bag  frozen  up  so  badly 
that,  after  three^  hours'  exertions,  was  able  to  get  into  bag  only  up  to  breast.  There  being  no  winci,  con- 
cluded to  sleep  out.  Unable  to  get  any  sleep  and  freezing  out  about  2  a.  m,,  March  13,  concluded  to  get 
up  and  go  on,  which  was  done  without  cooking  anything.  Got  to  point  near  Viele,  when  tea  was  made, 
some  bacon  being  eaten  on  the  way. 

*  This  account,  having  been  written  in  full  from  Sergeant  Long'  1  statements  at  the  time,  presents  the  discoveries  more 
accurately  than  can  any  present  or  elaborate  statement, — A.  W.  G. 


I.il 


■|.   I 


iill 


II 


f    ! 


; .  i 


i^  i 


.:! 


UM 


358 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXl'EDITION. 


At  about  8  a.  m.,  Marrh  13,  sf:irtc(!  up  the  valley  near  Cape  Vicle,  taking  some  hard  bread  and  pem- 
inicai)  ill  their  pockets,  leaving  sleiige  and  sleeping  bag  ai\(l  cooking  apparatus  anil  rum  at  (imp.  'look 
medicine,  however.  Siar<:cly  any  vegetation  in  valley,  'i'raveieil  up  about  three  or  foi'  miles  when  he 
struik  tiie  iie — a  regular  glacier — the  north  one  which  terminates  in  'I'win  (ilacier  Valley.  H  id  no  trouble 
crossing  the  glacier.  Found  that  the  whole  country  around  was  ice  cap])ed,  there  being  only  a  small  piece 
of  high  land  visible  between  the  Twin  (llaciers.  Found  that  the  ice-cap  ran  down  to  the  southeast,  evi- 
ilently  forming  the  glacier  which  ends  in  Rosse  May.  From  the  highest  point  east  of  I'win  (ilacier  Valley 
had  an  excellent  view  to  the  northwest,  and  carefully  examined  the  country  with  his  glasses.  Uache  Island 
terminated  in  low  land,  and  to  the  southwest  of  it  w.is  a  small  rocky  island  resembling  in  its  structure  very 
much  that  of  Cocked  JIat  Island.     Princess  Marie  H.iy  ap|)eared  to  conned  with  Hayes  Sound. 

All  of  the  western  end  of  Uache  Island  is  low  ground,  rendering  it  dilKicult  to  say  just  where  the  lanil 
ended  and  water  commenced.  Some  distance  in  rear  of  Capes  Maker  and  Stephens  the  land  rose  gradually, 
and  a  range  of  low  mountains  or  very  high  land  was  seen,  which  however  presented  to  his  view  no  particu- 
larly prominent  peaks.  Could  see  the  entire  west  side  of  Alexandra  Fiord,  but  the  valleys  or  gaps  were  fdled 
with  snow  and  no  signs  of  game  anywhere  visible.  Followed  the  ice-cap  around  and  descended  to  water's 
edge  near  the  head  of  the  (iord.  A  large  glacier  terminated  the  head  of  the  fiord,  and  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  glacier  was  a  low  island  at  right  angles  to  the  hea<l  and  nearly  extending  across  the  fiord. 
Climbed  up  the  we  •  side  of  fiord  anil  attempted  to  cross  the  country  between  Mount  Carey  and  the  mount- 
ains to  the  southwest.  Met  very  stee|)  cliffs  of  some  2,000  feet  (610'")  elevation,  which  prevented  his  jiassage. 
To  the  southwest  tl  e  country  w.as  ice-cappod  and  afforded  no  chance  for  game.  After  nine  hours'  steady 
travel  he  reached  a  point  north  (true)  of  Mount  Carey,  from  whence  he  w.is  able  to  look  to  the  westward 
into  Hayes  Sound.  Fiom  Uache  Island,  commencing  with  Cape  Stevens,  he  counted  five  capes  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Sound.  On  the  south  side  the  land  was  very  high,  with  valleys  filled  with  snow  or  ice  running 
into  the  sound.  About  twenty  miles  to  the  westward  high  land  was  visible,  and  the  coast  line  trending  to 
the  northwest,  the  sound  appeared  to  terminate  and  the  two  coasts  (north  and  south)  to  unite,  but  of  this 
he  could  not  be  certain.  The  weather  was  then  clear  to  the  west  but  somewhat  ha/.y  towards  Cape  Stephens. 
W  hile  the  high  land  to  the  westward  appeared  to  thus  shut  out  the  sound,  yet  the  distance  was  such  that 
he  felt  no  certainty  about  it.  Owing  to  the  F'.skimo  being  somewhat  demoralized  by  the  prospects,  he  con- 
cluded to  return  to  the  bag,  which  was  doiic  as  direct  as  possible. 

Reached  Cape  Viele  at  10  p.  m.,  having;  been  absent  fourteen  hours  and  having  had  only  four  ounces 
pemmican  and  a  few  ounces  of  hard  bread  during  the  time.  Cooked  some  tea  and  a;tem])ted  to  turn  in. 
After  tea,  as  F^skimo  wished  to  return  at  once  to  station,  he  concluded  to  start  on.  Traveled  an  hour  and 
then  went  into  camp,  /.  <■.,  bag.  Tried  to  get  into  bag,  but  could  only  get  in  up  to  breasts.  After  being  in 
bag  about  threeijuarters  of  an  hour,  Long  was  taken  sick  with  cramps  and  was  much  exhausted.  Christian- 
sen got  out,  heated  some  rum,  and  gave  it  to  Long,  with  some  spirits  of  ammonia.  The  medicine  soon  set 
Long  right.  Christiansen  remained  out  of  bag  and  i)ulled  flap  over  Long.  Christiansen  made  tea,  and  after 
that  and  eating  four  ounces  bacon  started  about  5  a.  vn.  for  Camp  Clay.  At  Cocked  Hat  Island,  2  p.  m,, 
being  very  much  exhausted,  stopped  and  had  tea  and  four  ounces  pemmican.  Reached  Camp  Clay  at  7.15 
p.  m.,  March  13,  quite  exhausted,  but  in  no  wise  injured  or  frost-bitten. 


Appendix  No.  hi. — Sergeant  Frederick'' s  report  of  journey  to  Baird  Inlet  ^  Aprils  1884. 

WASHiNGTpN,  D.  C,  December  2\,  1884. 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  respectfully  submit  the  following  report  of  a  voluntary  journey  made  by  Ser- 
geant Rice  and  myself  in  the  month  of  April,  1884,  for  the  purpose  of  recovering  the  F.nglish  beef  aban- 
doned by  us  the  fall  previous. 

About  the  middle  of  March,  Rice  and  myself  volunteered  our  services  for  this  trip  to  the  commanding 
officer,  who,  seeing  the  dangers  that  would  attend  such  a  journey,  would  not  at  first  consent;  but  as  Rice 
and  myself  kept  on  talking  about  it  daily,  and  most  everybody  thought  it  would  add  to  our  chances  of  life 
if  we  could  recover  this  iiieat,  Lieutenant  Greely  reluctantly  gave  his  consent  about  April  i. 


TIIK  hAUY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXrHDITlOS. 


359 


life 


In  justice  to  the  heroic  dead  and  living;,  I  must  state  that  Rice  and  myself  were  not  the  only  ones  to 
volunteer,  but  every  one  else  expressed  his  willingness  to  go;  but  as  Rice  and  myself  hail  been  with  the 
party  that  was  compelled  to  abandon  the  meat  in  the  fall,  and  as  our  health,  if  not  better,  was  at  least  as 
good  as  any  one  else's,  it  was  thought  that  our  chances  of  success  were  the  best. 

Sergeant  Rice  and  myself  left  the  camp  about  lo  p.  m.  on  April  the  6th.  Our  outfit  consiste<l  of  one 
small  sledge,  one  two-man  sleeping-bag,  and  one  Remington  ritle  with  ammunition,  one  ax,  one  alcohol 
lamp  and  pot  for  cooking,  and  alcohol  for  fuel ;  our  allowances  of  rations  were  six  ounces  of  pemmican  and 
six  ounces  of  bre.id  daily.  We  carried  besides  a  small  ({uantity  of  brandy,  some  pills,  and  a  small  vial  of 
aromatic  s|)irits  of  ammonia  for  m':dical  purposes. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  Sergeant  Urainard,  Ellis,  and  Whisler  had  during  the  day  pulled  our  equip- 
ments to  the  brow  of  the  island,  a  distance  of  about  4  miles,  from  where  they  relumed  very  much  exhausted. 
The  good  wishes  and  prayers  of  all  the  party  went  with  us,  and  three  as  hearty  cheers  as  their  weak  condi- 
tion would  allow,  followed  us  through  the  narrow  entrance. 

A  fresh  wintl  was  blowing,  which  increased  to  a  perfect  gale  by  the  time  wc  reached  the  sledge.  We 
went  down  the  hill  very  fast  and  took  a  good  many  tumbles  till  we  reached  Rosse  Hay.  We  were  com- 
pelled to  stoj)  traveling  about  8  a.  m.  on  account  of  wind  and  ilrifting  snow.  We  unrolled  our  sleeping-bag 
on  the  ice,  and  after  partaking  of  a  piece  of  fro/en  pemmican  crawled  into  it,  and  were  compelled  to  remain 
motionless  for  32  hours  during  a  raging  snow-storm. 

^/>n/  8. — We  dug  our  way  thr  )ugh  the  snow  drift  that  had  formed  around  our  sleeping-bag.     About 

6  a.  m.  started  at  once,  as  we  were  too  cold  to  sto|)  and  cook.  After  about  an  hour's  travel  we  found  our- 
selves sufficiently  warmed  up  to  stop  for  some  warm  food,  which  revived  us  very  much.  The  traveling  was 
good,  only  a  fresh  breeze  blowing  and  light  snow  falling,  which  made  it  hard  in  our  weak  condition.     About 

7  p.  m.  it  became  so  dark  and  blustering  that  we  were  compelled  to  draw  our  sledge  up  between  a  large  ice- 
berg and  the  foot  of  a  glacier  near  Eskimo  Point  for  shelter. 

April q,  left  camp  about  7  a.  m.  The  morning  was  calm  and  the  sky  clear,  the  traveling  was  very  good, 
and  we  reached  Eskimo  Point  in  about  an  hour.  Here  we  abandoned  our  slee|)ing-bag,  hoping  to  be  able 
to  travel  so  much  faster  with  the  lighted  sledge.  We  searched  closely  for  the  tracks  of  the  previous  fall,  but 
were  unable  to  see  anything  of  them.  Aftei  passing  into  Elison  Bay  yesterday  we  found  that  in  places 
where  the  ice  was  smooth  in  the  fall  it  was  now  very  rough,  and  vice  versa.  Evident  signs  that  it  had  been 
broken  up  since  our  last  journey. '  We  found  pools  of  open  water  between  the  grounded  icebergs,  which 
threw  us  out  of  our  course  sometimes  as  much  as  a  mile.  Our  feet  got  wet  and  froze  when  we  stepped  on 
dry  ice  or  snow.  To  add  to  our  misfortunes  a  heavy  wind  sprang  up  from  the  northwest  about  1 1  a.  m. 
with  a  thick  snow  drifting,  so  that  we  were  unable  to  see  any  distance,  and  at  3  p.  m.  we  thought  that  we 
were  at  the  place  where  the  meat  was  abandoned  the  previous  fall,  but  notwithstanding  an  extended  and 
very  careful  search,  we  failed  to  our  great  disappointment  and  sorrow  to  discover  any  tracks  or  traces  which 
would  go  to  indicate  the  spot  where  it  had  been  left.  At  this  juncture  I  proposed  to  Rice  to  up-end  our 
sledge  and  return  to  our  sleeping-bag  for  the  night  and  resume  our  unsuccessful  search  on  the  morrow.  But 
Rice  thinking  that  the  weather  would  clear  up,  thought  that  our  best  chance  of  success  would  be  to  remain 
on  the  spot. 

I  discovered  about  4  p.  m.  that  Rice  was  weakening.  I  therefore  reminded  him  of  the  agreement  made 
before  leaving  Camp  Clay,  that  in  case  either  of  us  should  show  signs  of  exhaustion  his  comrade  should  tell 
him,  in  order  that  necessary  steps  might  be  taken  to  prevent  disaster,  and  I  again  urged  upon  Rice  the 
necessity  of  returning  to  the  sleeping-bag  for  rest  and  shelter. 

But  he  said  that  he  was  only  a  little  tired,  and  would  soon  recover  by  traveling  a  little  slow.  After  a 
short  time,  however,  I  could  plainly  see  that  Rice  was  weakening  rapidly,  and  observing  an  iceberg  about 
1,000  yards  [914'"]  to  the  west  of  us,  I  urged  upon  Rice  to  reach  it  in  order  to  obtain  at  least  a  partial  shelter. 
We  fortunately  accomplished  this.  By  this  time  he  was  almost  completely  exhausted.  1  gave  him  some 
brandy  and  spirits  of  ammonia,  which  seemed  to  revive  him.  I  now  lighted  the  lamp  and  prepared  some 
warm  food  for  him ;  after  having  eaten  it  and  drunk  a  cup  of  warm  tea  I  endeavored  to  start  him,  in  order  to 
keep  him  from  freezing,  but  it  was  all  in  vain.  His  condition  was  becoming  alarming.  He  was  too  weak 
to  stand  up,  and  his  mind  seemed  to  be  taken  up  with  recollections  of  his  relatives  and  friends  at  home,  of 
whom  he  spoke,  and  he  also  kept  talking  of  the  diflerent  meals  he  would  eat  when  he  should  have  reached 
home.  He  seemed  to  realize  his  critical  condition,  for  he  asked  me,  in  case  he  should  die  here  and  I  were  to 
survive,  to  send  his  manuscripts  to  the  New  York  Herald,  and  his  personal  effects  to  his  relatives.     We 


III 


360 


TUE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


^i 


I!  m 


i     i 


I 


i 

II 


s! 


remained  here  on  this  desolate  piece  of  ice,  with  the  wind  blowing  a  hurricane,  for  two  hours  or  more,  after 
which  time  ir.y  poor  heroic  companion  lost  consciousness.  7.  did  everything  for  him  that  my  limited  means 
permitted.  I  wrapped  him  up  in  my  temiak  in  order  to  keep  him  as  warm  as  possible,  and  remained  on  the 
sledge  amidst  the  drifting  snow  with  my  unconscious  friend  in  my  arms  until  7.45  p.  m.,  when  poor  Rice 
passed  away.  My  situation  can  be  easier  imagined  than  described.  Here  I  was  left  alone  with  the  body 
of  my  friend  in  an  ice-bound  region,  out  of  reach  of  help  or  assistance.  The  death  of  my  companion  under 
these  circumstances  made  a  deeper  impression  on  my  mind  than  any  experience  in  my  whole  life.  As  here  I 
stood,  completely  exhausted,  by  the  remains  of  poor  Rice,  shivering  with  the  cold,  unable  to  bury  the  remains, 
hardly  able  to  move,  I  knew  that  my  chances  to  reach  Eskimo  Point,  which  was  about  7  miles  to  the 
north,  were  small  indeed.  I  was  completely  disheartened ;  I  felt  more  like  remaining  here  and  perishing  by 
the  side  of  my  companion  than  to  make  .-nother  effort,  but  the  sense  of  the  duty  which  I  owed  to  my  country 
and  companions  and  to  my  dead  comrade  to  bear  back  tho  sad  tidings  of  the  disaster,  sustained  me  in  this 
trial.  I  stooped  and  kissed  the  remains  of  my  dead  companion,  and  left  then;  there  for  the  wild  winds  of  the 
Arctic  to  sweep  over, 

I  traveled  to  the  north,  and  after  7  hours  of  hard  travel  I  reached  the  sleeping-bag  completely  ex- 
hausted. I  found  the  bag  frozen  stiff  as  a  piece  of  cord-wood,  and  in  my  weak  condition  I  was  unable  to 
unroll  it,  and  I  thought  surely  that  I  should  have  to  perish  here;  but,  as  fortune  would  have  it,  I  found  in  my 
pocket  a  small  vial  which  contained  a  few  drops  of  ammonia,  which  1  took.  This  revived  me  so  that  it  ena- 
bled me  to  get  into  the  bag,  where  I  lay  until  the  following  morning.  I  then  hustled  out,  about  8  a.  m. ;  got 
some  warm  food,  and  starter^  back  to  bury  the  remains  of  my  companion.  This  morning  being  very  bright 
I  found  the  traveling  much  easier  than  last  night.  When  I  reached  the  gloomy  spot  where  lay  the  remains 
of  poor  Rice,  thinking  that  he  might  have  something  on  his  person  which  ought  to  be  returned  to  his  relatives, 
I  searched  his  clothing,  and  found  several  small  articles,  which  I  delivered  to  the  commanding  officer. 

I  then  began  the  difficult  task  of  digging  a  grave  for  the  remains  of  ray  poor  friend,  which  was 
accomplished  after  hard  labor  of  several  hotirs.  I  had  no  shovel,  only  an  ax,  and  the  loose  ice  I  had  to 
remove  with  my  hands,  and  it  is  here,  on  a  paleocrystic  Hoe,  that  I  laid  the  remains  of  one  who  was  so  dear 
to  me.  Here,  in  this  icy  grave,  I  leave  my  comrade, and  will  endeavor  to  carry  back  the  sad  news  to  our 
companions.     After  a  few  hours  I  again  reached  Eskimo  Point,  where  I  camped  for  the  night. 

Now  it  became  a  question  of  vital  importance  to  me  how  I  was  to  reach  Camp  Clay  in  my  enfeebled 
condition.  I  was  unable  to  travel  eight  or  nine  hours  in  one  sLretch,  for  after  the  first  three  or  four  hours, 
I  should  move  so  slow  that  I  would  freeze  in  my  tracks.  I  therefore  resolved  to  take  the  alcohol  which  we 
carried  for  fuel,  dilute  it  with  water,  and  take  ,1  small  quantity  of  it  whenever  I  lay  down,  sv  •  I  would  go  to  sleep 
at  once. 

April  10,  1884. — I  broke  camp  about  7  a.m.;  picked  up  all  my  traps,  and  started  for  Camp  Clay. 
After  pulling,  hauling,  and  stumbling  for  about  four  hours,  I  became  so  tired  that  I  had  to  go  into  camp.  I 
turned  my  sledge  upside  down,  and  stretched  the  sleeping-bag  between  the  runners,  and  took  a  small  drink 
of  diluted  alcohol.  I  was  then  soon  in  the  land  of  dreams,  and  after  lying  here  for  about  three  or  four 
hours,  I  woke  up  completely  chilled.  I  then  picked  up  my  traps  and  traveled  until  I  was  thoroughly  warm, 
when  I  stopped  and  prepared  some  food.  By  the  time  this  was  done  and  the  scanty  meal  eaten,  I  was 
chilled  again.  I  would  then  start  again  and  travel  until  I  was  thoroughly  warm  and  tired  out;  then  I  would 
go  into  camp  and  repeat  the  Jose  of  alcohol.  When  I  arrived  at  the  divide  between  Elison  and  Rosse  Bay 
I  found  that  I  was  not  able  to  drag  my  load  over  it.  I  therefore  fastened  a  rope  to  the  sleeping-bag  and 
drew  it  over  first.  I  then  went  back  for  the  sledge  in  this  tiresome  and  laborious  way,  and  in  my  weak 
condition,  I  worked  my  way  back  towards  Camp  Clay,  from  the  9th  to  the  13th. 

When  I  reached  Camp  Clay  I  met  Sergeant  Brainard  at  the  entrance  of  our  small  ice  hut;  he  at  once 
asked  for  P.ice,  and  when  I  informed  him  that  Rice  had  peiished  he  exclaimed:  "  My  God!  It  is  too  bad; 
for  we  have  just  killeti  a  bear,  which  would  liave  enabled  us  all  to  pull  through.  I  am  very  sorry; "  and 
with  a  broken  heart  he  entered  the  hut  and  reported  the  disaster,  which  brought  one  and  all  to  tears. 

The  commander  ordered  rum  for  me,  which  was  given  to  me  by  Biederbick.  I  then  told  them  of  the 
trials  and  hardships  and  the  death  of  poor  Rice ;  I  never  have  seen  any  party  take  anything  more  to  heart 
than  this  disaster.  After  having  listened  to  my  narrative  they  gave  me  the  sorrowful  news  of  the  death  of 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Sergeants  Jeweli  and  Linn,  who  had  perished  in  my  absence.  My  pen  is 
inadequate  to  describe  the  scene  in  that  miserable  i,now  hut,  when,  after  an  absence  of  seven  days  in  the 


11^  i' 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


361 


fruitless  search  for  stores  abandoned  in  the  ice,  I  had  to  report  the  failure  of  the  expedition,  the  death  of  a 
rherishec'  and  brave  companion,  and  to  be  informed  of  the  death  of  three  as  good  and  brave  men  as  ever 
faced  the  dangers  and  privations  of  arctic  coUl  and  darkness  in  the  exertion  of  their  duty  to  tiieir  country. 
If  presenting  this  report  I  beg  to  express  my  regret  that  I  have  not  been  able  to  dc  >at  an  earlier  date. 
You  will,  I  trust,  excuse  both  the  delay  and  the  deficiency. 
Respectfully  submitted. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

Julius  R.  Frederick, 
Sergt,,  Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely, 

Fifth  Cav.,  A.  S.  O.  ami  Assf., 

Commaniiing  L.  F,  B.  Expedition, 


Appkndix  No.  112. — Lieutenant  Kislingbury^s  letter^  April  22^  1884. 

Camp  Clav,  ^/nV  22,  1884. 
My  Dear  Lieutenant;  Dr.  Pavy  has  officially  .advised  me  of  his  recommendation  to  you  not  at 
present  to  reduce  the  allowance  below  one  pound  of  meat  per  day,  and  that  you  could  not  sanction  his 
recommendation.  You  have  again  placed  the  daily  allowance  of  meat  at  ten  ounces.  Our  hard  bread  is 
two  ounces  per  day.  The  shrimp  allowance  is  ample,  but  I  fear  from  our  rec'>  it  and  present  weakened  con- 
dition, depending  so  much  as  we  have  on  them,  that  they  do  little  more  than  relieve  the  direct  pangs  of 
hunger,  and  give  little  strength,  nourishment,  or  warmth  to  our  poor  we.ikened  systems.  The  party,  on  the 
whole,  were  gradually  gaining  on  the  one  pound  of  meat,  but  are  now  again  losing  strength,  and  I  fear  lor 
the  result  if  the  decreased  allowance  continues.  You  are,  I  know,  doing  everything  for  the  best,  and  I  have 
but  one  desire,  to  help  you  all  I  possibly  can  in  this  trying  ordeal  through  which  your  responsibilities  as  com- 
manding officer  carry  you.  We  cannot  enter  into  the  nuestion  thoroughly  now.  Your  sufferings  this 
morning  and  weakened  condition  alarm  me.  Our  stronger  men  are  gradually  \,eakening.  The  increase 
to  one  pound  will  make  but  a  fe»v  d.ays'  differenr"  in  the  shortening  of  the  time  our  present  supply  would 
subsist  us.  I  have  well  considered  the  matter,  and  as  your  second  officer  I  strongly  urge  that  the  meat 
allowan  :e  be  agairt  increased  to  one  pound  per  day.  This  will,  I  believe,  carry  us  along  gradually  improving, 
and  before  our  present  supply  is  exhausted  we  should  find  ourselves  safely  passed  through  the  coldest  weather 
and  at  a  time  when  seals  and  birds  will  be  more  numerous  and  more  readily  procurable. 
I  am,  truly,  your  obedient  servant, 

Frederick  F.  Kisunohurv, 
Second  Lieutenant,  EltTenth  Infantty,  A.  S.  O. 
First  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Greely, 

Commanding  Expedition, 


Appendix  No.  113. — Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy,^  April  2^^  1SS4. 

Camp  Clay,  F.llesmere  Land,  April  25,  1884. 
Sir:  The  health  of  the  command  at  this  time  at  the  morning  inspection  is  as  follows:  Very  weak,  and 
even  shows  no  improvement  in  the  condition  of  parties  under  increased  rations.  I  have  respectfully  recom- 
mended in  my  oral  report,  i:,t,  that  Schneider  should  be  relieved  for  the  present  of  t  1?  duties  of  shrimper 
and  allowed  a  few  days  to  recuperate,  having  since  a  month  greatly  exerted  himself.  ""X,  that  the  rations 
of  the  two  hunters,  to  be  as  equal  as  possible  to  the  work  accomplished,  should  be  re-established  at  what 
they  were  after  the  killing  of  the  last  game — one  pound  and  the  extra  of  8  oz.  31!,  that,  contrary  to  my 
previous  recommendation,  that  one  shrimp-catcher  should  be  put  again  to  the  increase  of  4  o/..  daily.  4th, 
that  Israel  and  Gardiner  should  for  the  present  be  kept  under  the  4  oz.  increase. 
I  am,  respectfully,  your  obdt.  svt , 

Octave  Pavv,  J/. /?. 

To  the  Com'd'g  Officer  of  U.  S.  Arctic  Exp't'n. 


'  'I 


'  1   ; 


:  l.i 


I    1 


ill 


362 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Appendix  No.  114. — Letter  of  Dr.  Pavy\  April  2 j.,  1884.. 


Camp  Clay,  Ellsmere  Land,  Afrit  z-jt/!,  1884. 

Sir:  Sin.ce  my  report  of  the  2sth  inst.,  I  have  found  no  improvement  in  the  general  condition  of  the 
party,  but  a  constant  decrease  in  its  general  strength.  A  slight  improvement  is  perceptible  in  the  cases  of 
Gardiner  and  Israel,  but  not  great  enough  to  allow  the  stopping  of  increased  rations.  Ellis  is  rather  better, 
but  Biederbick  was,  and  is,  fastly  [sic]  getting  weaker.  1  he  general  atonique  [atonic]  state  of  the  bowels,  ar  J 
the  constant  increa-^ing  obstinate  constipation,  compel  nr  to  call  to  your  attention  a  few  recommendations, 
hoping,  for  the  welfare,  perhaps  even  for  the  safety  of  the  m.ijority  of  the  party,  that  they  will  be  received 
favorably.  First,  that  as  the  state  of  our  bowels  is  critical,  and  the  general  weakness  fastly  [sif\  increasing,  the 
following  change  of  diet  for  the  next  ten  days  is  necessary:  4  oz.  of  bacon,  altemr.ting  with  pemmican,  in 
the  morning  (raw  in  the  plate),  with  one  pint  of  tea  and  one  of  stew  consisting  of  shrimps,  and  i  oz.  of  blub- 
ber and  I  oz.  of  fresh  meat,  and  the  usual  amount  of  bread  until  exhausted.  In  the  evening,  one  pot  of  tea 
and  two  of  stew  with  shrimps,  the  ordinary  amount  of  bread,  and  7  oz.  of  meat.  This  proposed  pl.ir.  cf 
diet  would  call  but  for  an  increase  of  i  oz,  only  of  blubber,  and  the  daily  use  of  bacon  and  pemmican,  v  ''ich 
would  now  be  of  the  highest  necessity  in  the  present  state  of  the  party.  I  have  detected,  this  morning,  a 
decri.  ase  in  the  strength  of  the  two  hunters,  and  a  change  unfavoritble  in  their  health.  I  could  renew  my 
recommendation  of  the  25th  for  an  increase  of  ration,  and  that  in  pemmican  and  bacon.  Earnestly  hoping 
that  these  important,  perhaps  necessary,  rer.ommendations  should  be  favorably  received,  for  the  safety  of  the 
remaining  members  of  the  command. 

I  am,  very  respect.,  your  obdt.  svt.. 

Octave  Paw,  Af.  D. 

To  the  Com'd'g  Offic.k  of  the  U.  S.  Arctic  Exp'd. 


Appendix  No.  115. — Lieutenant  Grcely' s  certificate  to  Dr.  Pavy. 

May  14,  1884. 
Genfral  Hazen:  Dr.  Pavy  ivishes,  for  the  satisfaction  of  his  wife,  that  I  should  write  you  ac  to  his 
performance  of  professional  duties  during  the  past  terrible  winter.  His  medical  skill  has  contributed  to  a 
very  great  degree  in  preserving  the  lives  of  the  party  as  now  constituted,  and  he  has  spared  himself  no 
physical  pains  or  trouble  in  carrying  out  his  arduous  and  trying  duties.  This,  notwithstanding  his  opinion 
that  he  was  not  legally  bound  to  perform  these  duties. 

A.  W.  G. 


Appendix  No.  116. — General  certificate  to  Dr.  Pavy. 

.     ■•  Camp  Clay,  May  19,  1884. 

To  whom  it  may  concern  : 

We,  the  undersigned,  members  of  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Polar  Expedition,  desire  to  take  this  means 
of  expressing  our  acknowledgement  of  the  devoted  zeal  and  professional  skill  displayed  by  Dr.  Octave  Pavy 
in  discharge  of  his  medical  duty  during  the  full  length  of  the  expedition.  During  the  past  winter,  1883-84, 
his  medical  skill  has  contributed  in  preserving  the  lives  of  the  party  to  the  present  day. 


Fred.  F.  Kislincuury. 

C.  B.  Henry. 

Jacob  Bender. 

E.  Israel. 

Roderick  R.  Schneider. 

Chemnitz ,  Saxony. 
Nicholas  Salor, 


D.  L.  Brainard. 
J.  R.  Frederick. 
Francis  Long. 
Maurice  Conneil. 
Henry  Biederbick. 
H.  S.  Gardiner. 
D.  C.  Ralston. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


363 


Appendix  No.  117. — Letter  of  IJcuteuant  Grcely  on  Dr.  Pavy. 

May  21,  1884. 
General  Hazhn  :  Learn  to-day  that  Dr.  Pavy  has  drawn  up  and  had  copied  by  Sergeant  Israel  a  state- 
ment as  to  his  skill,  f:c.,  this  winter.  Every  man  is  now  on  the  verge  of  the  t;rave  and  under  the  hands  of 
Dr.  Pavy,  who  is  the  strongest  of  us  all,  and  we  are  all  at  his  mercy,  so  to  say.  The  value  of  such  a  cer- 
tificate is  evident.  I  have  sworn  evidence  of  five  men  that  Dr.  Pavy  has  stolen  at  various  times  bread  from 
his  crippled  patient.  Sergeant  Elison,  and  also  evidence  that  he  has  stolen  extract  of  beef  from  medical  stores. 
He  will  probably  survive.  I  have  no  hopes  for  myself.  I  close  this  book  to-day  to  try  and  secure  it  to  you. 
Good-bye,  general. 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
Lieutenant,  Commanding. 


Appendix  No.  118. — Order  for  Private  Hcnry^  s  exenition, 

Nkar  Cape  Sabine,  fiine  G,  1884. 
Sergeants  Brainard,  Long,  and  Frederick  :  Notwithstanding  promises  given  by  Private  C.  B.  Henry 
yesterday,  he  has  since  acknowledged  to  me  having  tampered  with  seal  thongs,  if  not  other  food,  at  the  old 
camp.  This  pertinacity  and  audacity  is  the  destruction  of  this  party  if  not  at  once  ended.  Private  Henry 
will  be  shot  to-day,  all  care  being  taken  to  prevent  his  injuring  any  one,  as  his  physical  strength  is  greater 
than  that  of  any  two  men.  Decide  the  manner  of  de.ith  b/  two  ball  and  one  blank  cartridge.  This  order 
is  imperative,  and  absolutely  necessary  for  any  chance  of  life. 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  As.i^Uint, 

Commending  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


I  ; ' 


I 


Appendix  No.  119. — Report  of  Private  Henry^  s  execution. 

Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  August  11,  1884. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  report  that  on  June  6, 1884,  at  Camp  Clay,  near  Cape  Sabine,  Grinnell  Land, 
it  became  necessary  for  me  to  order  the  military  execution  of  Private  Charles  B.  Henry,  Fifth  Cavalry, 
for  continued  thieving.  The  order  was  given  in  writing  on  my  undivided  responsibility,  being  deemed 
absolutely  essential  for  the  safety  of  the  surviving  members  of  the  expedition  Ten  had  already  died  of 
starvation,  and  two  more  lay  at  the  point  of  death. 

The  facts  inducing  my  action  were  as  follows:  Provisions  had  been  stolen  in  November,  1883,  and 
Henry's  complicity  therein  was  more  than  suspected.  March  24,  1884,  the  party  nearly  perished  from 
asphyxia.  While  several  men  were  unconscious  and  efforts  were  being  made  for  their  restoration,  Priv;'te 
Henry  stole  about  two  pounds  of  bacon  from  the  mess  stores.  He  was  not  only  seen  by  Eskimo  Jens 
Edwards,  but  his  stomach  being  overloaded  he  threw  up  the  undigested  bacon.  An  open  investigation  was 
held  and  every  member  of  the  party  declared  him  guilty  of  this  and  other  thefts.  A  clamor  for  his  life  was 
raised,  but  was  repressed  by  me.  I  put  him  under  surveillance  until  our  waning  strength  rendered  his 
physical  services  indispensable.  Later  he  was  found  one  day  iixtoxicated,  having  stolen  thf,  liquor  on  hand 
for  general  issue.    A  second  time  his  life  was  demanded,  but  I  again  spared  him. 

On  June  5  thefts  of  provisions  on  his  part  having  been  repcrteu  to  me,  I  had  a  conversation  with  him, 
in  which  I  appealed  to  his  practical  sense,  pointing  out  that  union  was  necessary  to  our  preservation.  He 
l)romised  reformation,  but,  distrusting,  I  issued  a  written  order  that  he  should  be  shot  if  detected  stealing. 
On  June  6  he  not  only  stole  part  of  the  shrimps  for  our  breakfast,  but  visiting,  unauthorized,  our  winter 
camp,  stole  certain  seal-skin  reserved  for  food.  I  then  ordered  him  shot.  On  his  person  was  found  a  silver 
ciironograph  abandoned  by  me  at  Fort  Conger  and  stolen  by  him.  In  his  bag  was  found  a  large  quantity 
of  sealskin,  and  a  pair  of  seal-skin  boots  stolen  a  few  days  before  from  the  hunter.  Suspecting  complicity 
on  the  part  of  several,  I  ordered  his  execution  by  three  of  the  most  reliable  men,    After  his  death  the  order 


I 

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364 


THK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


was  read  to  the  entire  party,  and  was  concurred  in  by  every  member  as  being  not  only  just,  but  as  essential 
to  our  safety.  To  avoid  public  scandal,  I  ordered  that  no  man  should  speak  of  this  matter  until  an  official 
report  was  made  of  the  facts.  I  have  the  honor  to  request  that  a  court  of  inquiry  be  ordered,  or  a  court- 
martial  convened,  shculd  the  honorable  Secretary  of  War  deem  either  advisable  in  this  _ase.  I  have  thought 
it  best  not  to  ask  the  written  statements  of  the  surviving  members  of  the  party  for  appendices  to  this  report, 
lest  I  might  seem  to  be  tampering  with  them.  I  have  not  asked  since  our  rescue — ^June  22 — whether 
their  opinions  concurring  in  my  action  have  changed  or  not,  leaving  such  questions  to  your  action,  if 
deemed  requisite.  I  necessarily  regret  that  circumstances  imposed  such  a  terrible  vesponsibility  upon  me, 
but  I  am  conscious  that  I  would  have  failed  in  my  duty  to  the  rest  of  my  party  had  I  not  acted  promptly 
and  summarily. 

I  am,  respectfully,  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
J^irst  Lieutetiant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 
Adjutant-General  of  the  Army, 

(Through  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  Washington,  D.  C.) 


Appendix   No.  120. — Letter  of  Secretary  of  IVar,  approving  Lieutenant  Greely^s  course 

regarding  execution  of  Private  Henry. 

War  Department,  Adjutant-General's  Office, 

>         Washington,  November  14,  1884. 

Sir;  Referring  to  your  letter  dated  August  11,  1884,  reporting  that  on  June  6,  1884,  at  Camp  Clay, 
near  Cape  Sabine,  you  had  ordered  the  military  execution  of  Private  Charles  B.  Henry,  Fifth  Cavalry, 
a  member  of  the  expedition  under  your  command,  giving  details  of  the  cause  of  such  execution,  and  asking 
for  the  appointment  of  a  court  of  inquiry  in  the  matter,  I  have  the  honor  to  inform  you  that  upon  con- 
sideration of  your  report,  in  connection  with  extracts  from  the  diaries  of  the  several  members  of  the  Lady 
Franklin  Bay  Expedition,  and  also  in  connection  with  the  diary  of  Private  Henry  himself,  the  Secretary  of 
War  entertains  no  doubt  of  the  necessity,  and  the  entire  propriety  of  your  action  in  ordering  the  execution 
of  Private  Henry,  under  the  circumstances  and  in  the  manner  set  forth  in  your  report. 

The  Secretary  therefore  does  not  consider  that  the  appointment  of  a  court  of  inquiry  to  investigate  the 
matter  is  required  by  the  public  interest. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

R.  C.  Drum, 

Adjutant-General. 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv, 

Fifth  Cavalry,  Aciivg  Signal  Officer, 

(Through  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Army.) 


■i^ 


lti°ji^ 


•'m.MS^, 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAT  EXPEDITION. 


365 


■   'i: 


Appendix  No.  121. — List  of  deaths. 
List  of  deaths  in  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


Name. 


W.H.Cross 

F.  T.  Christiansen  (Esk 
imo). 

David  Linn 

George  W.  Rice 


James  B.  Lockwood 

W.S.Jewell.. 

Jens  Edward  (Eskimo) . 

W.A.Ellis 

D.C.  Ralston 

William  Whisler 

Edward  Israel 

F.  F.  Kislingbury 

Nicholas  Salor 

Charles  B.  Henry 

Jacob  Bender 

Octave  Pavy 


H.  S.  Gardiner . 


R.  R.  Schneider  . 
Joseph  Elison  . . . 


Rank. 


Sergeant 


Sergeant  , 
.—do... 


First  lieutenant,  A.  S.  O . . 
Sergeant  


Private 

Sergeant  

Private 

Sergeant  

Second  lieutenant,  A.  S.O. 

Corporal 

Private 

...do 


Acting  assistant  surgeon 
Sergeant  


Private.  „ 
Sergeant 


Regiment. 


General  Service  , 


Company  C,  Second  Cavalry,  U.  S.  A 
Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A 


Twenty-third  Infantry,  U.  S.  A 

Signal  Corps,  U.S.  A ... 


Company  C,  Second  Cavalry,  U.  S.  A 

Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A 

Company  F,  Ninth  Infantry,  U.  S.  A. 

Signal  Cor),..,  U.  S.  A 

Eleventh  Infantry,  U.  S.A 

Company  H,  Second  Cavalry,  U.  S.  A 
Co^npany  E,  Fifth  Cavalry,  U.  S.  A.. 
Company  F,  Ninth  Infantry,  U.  S.  A 
United  States  Army 


Signal  Corps,  U.  S.  A. 


Company  A,  First  Artillery,  U.  S.  A. 
Company  E,  Tenth  Infantry,  U.  S.  A. 


Date 
of  death. 


1884. 
Jan.    18 
Apr.    S 

Apr.  6 
Apr.    9 

Apr.  9 
Apr.  12 
Apr.  29 
May  19 
May  23 
May  24 
May  27 
June  I 
June  3 
June  6 
June  6 
June    6 


June  12 

June  18 
July    8 


Cause  of  death. 


Scurvy. 

Incipient  scurvy  (prob- 
ably) and  starvation. 
Starvation. 
Exhaustion    during 

storm, 
otarvation. 

Do. 

Drowned. 

Starvation. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Shot  by  order. 

Starvation. 

Starvation ;     hastened 

by  narcotics. 
Inflammation    of    the 
bowels   and   starva- 
tion. 
Starvation,  and   prob- 
ably incipient  scurvy. 
Effect  of  frost-bite. 


A.  W.  Greely, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


1.1 


Appendix  No.  122. — Order  relative  to  Private  Henry.,  dated  June  5,  1884. 

JIear  Cape  Sabine,  yune  5,  1884. 
To  Sergeants  Brainard,  Frederick,  and  Long:  Private  Henry,  having  been  repeatedly  guilty  of 
stealing  the  provisions  of  this  party,  which  is  now  perishing  slowly  by  starvation,  has  so  far  been  condoned 
and  pardoned.  It  is,  however,  imperatively  ordered,  that  if  this  man  be  detected  either  eating  food  of  any 
kind  not  issued  him  regularly,  or  making  caches  or  appropriating  any  article  of  provision,  you  will  at  once 
shoot  him  and  report  the  matter  to  me.  An)  other  course  would  be  a  fatal  leniency,  the  man  being  able  to 
overpower  any  two  of  our  present  force. 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
First  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition. 


I' 


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LIEUTENANT  LOCKWOOD'S  JOURNAL.  FROM  AUGUST  3,  1883. 


Appendix  No.  123. 

Philadelphia,  April  6,  1885. 
I,  Mary  S.  McCalla,  stenographer,  do  hereby  inake  oath  that  the  translation  of  the  fourth  volume  of  the 
stenographic  notes  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  journal  of  the  Greely  expedition  is  a  correct,  perfect,  and  full 
copy  of  the  same,  no  omission  having  been  made,  and  no  changes  made  cither  in  substance  or  sense. 

Mary  S.  McCalla, 

Stenographer. 
State  of  Pennsylvania,  \ 
Philadelphia  County,       )     ' 
Subscribed  and  sworn  to  before  me  this  16th  day  of  April,  1885. 

C.  Howard  Schermerhorn, 

Notary  Public. 
|C.  Howard  Schermerhorn,  SEAL,  Notary,  Philadelphia.] 


SS: 


Affidavit. 
State  of  Pennsylvania, 
County  of  Philadelphia, 

I,  William  B.  Mann,  prothonotary  of  the  court  of  common  pleas  of  said  county,  do  certify  that  C. 
Howard  Schermerhorn,  esquire,  before  whom  the  annexed  affidavit  was  made,  was  at  the  time  of  so  doing 
a  notary  public  in  and  for  the  county  and  State  aforesaid,  duly  commissioned  and  qualified  to  administer 
oaths  and  affirmations,  and  to  take  acknowledgments,  &c.,  and  to  all  whose  acts  as  such  full  faith  and  credit 
are  and  ought  to  be  given,  as  well  in  courts  of  judicature  as  elsewhere,  said  court  being  a  court  of  record; 
and  that  I  am  well  acquainted  with  the  handwriting  of  the  said  C.  Howard  Schermerhorn,  notary  public, 
and  verily  believe  his  signature  thereto  is  genuine,  and  that  said  affidavit  pUrports  to  be  taken  in  all  respects 
as  required  by  the  laws  of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania..  In  testimony  whereof  I  have  hereunto  set  my  hand 
and  affixed  the  seal  of  said  court  this  17th  day  of  April,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred 

and  eighty-five. 

William  B.  Mann, 

Prothonotary, 
Court  of  Common  Pleas, 

Philadelphia,  Fa. 


Friday,  August  3,  1883. — Still  no  ship.  Kennedy  Channel  is  reported  as  having  a  good  deal  of  loose 
ice  drifting  south.  The  ice  this  day  is  very  much  as  usual.  New  ice  forms  every  night,  and  to  some  extent 
during  the  day,  but  the  loose  ice  drifting  about  with  the  tide  keeps  it  from  attaining  any  thickness.  One  of 
the  pups  (Castor  or  Pollux,  I  do  not  know  which)  followed  me  along  the  shore  this  evening  to  North  Valley 
Creek.      I   was  afraid  of  getting  lost.     This  evening  Frederik*  [Frederik  Christiansen]  went  out  in  the 

*Tliis  word,  as  in  other  cases,  being  misunderstood  by  the  translator,  is  followed  by  the  correct  word  bracketed, — A.W.  G. 
366 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


367 


kyak  after  a  seal  on  the  ice,  about  half  a  mile  in  front  of  the  house,  but  the  sly  seal  took  a  header  and  down 
he  went  before  Frcdcrik  [Christiansen]  got  near.  We  ate  the  last  of  the  flour  this  morning  at  breakfast, 
and  now  have  only  hard  bread  and  cornnieal.  The  fresh  meat  has  been  gone  some  lime,  and  now  pork  and 
canned  corned  beef  comprise  the  meat.  The  latter  is  not  good,  being  dry  and  tasteless,  and  the  former  is 
worse  than  the  latter.  We  have  a  little  canned  roast  beef  (a  few  cans),  which  will  be  used  going  south,  with 
pemmican,  pork,  &c. 

Saturday,  August  ^. — Foggy  and  overcast  this  morning,  but  later  in  the  day  the  fog  lifted.  This  evening 
it  is  snowing  lightly.  Lieutenant  Greely  and  several  men  were  on  Mount  Cornhill  [Cairn  Hill].  The  straits 
seem  to  be  packed  closer  than  hitherto — between  Dutchland  [Dutch  Island]  and  Cape  Baird  especially  so. 
Kennedy  Channel  seems  to  have  a  good  deal  more  ice.  No  ship,  and  no  chance  of  a  ship  as  things  are 
now,  nor  any  present  chance  of  our  leaving,  though  I  think  Lieutenant  Greely  will  make  the  attempt  even 
with  a  very  poor  prospect,  and  though  the  ice  remains  in  statu  quo  for  weeks  yet.  Personally  I  would  rather 
take  almost  any  chance  that  offered  than  stay  here  another  long  winter  night.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and 
Jans  [Jens]  got  a  small  seal  early  th"  morning  in  front  of  the  house ;  weight,  47  pounds.  Await  more  seal 
to-morrow.  "Rit"  and  "Askim"  ["Ask  him"]  had  a  terrible  fight  this  morning.  They  are  rival  lovers. 
"Askim  "  ["Ask  him  "]  got  "  Rit "  down  onc*^.  They  had  several  rounds.  I  think  it  will  end  by  "Askim  " 
["Ask  him  "]  being  king  and  "  Rit "  going  about  with  drooping  head  and  tail,  like  that  d  ;based  monarch, 

Old  H I  Howler].     I  should  rather  say  would  end  thus  under  ordiraiy  circu;.  .stances,  bit  when  we  leave 

here — if  in  boats,  as  probable — the  dogs  will  be  shot,  or  perhaps  left  with  a  few  days'  lood  against  the 
possible  event  of  our  return.  Of  course,  in  the  latter  event  (barring  our  return),  they  would  soon  starve  to 
death. 

Sunday,  August  5. — Fine  day ;  warm,  sunny,  and  calm.  It  is  singular  we  have  no  wind.  Wind  is  what 
we  want  now.  Whisler  and  Ralston  report  smoke,  as  of  a  steamer,  down  the  straits.  They  were  on  Corn- 
hill  [Cairn  Hill],  It  has  elicited  a  good  deal  of  discussion,  I  doubt  it  being  anything  else  than  fog  or 
clouds,  and  I  judge  they  more  than  half  think  so  themselves  now.  The  ship  is  the  only  subject  of  discussion 
now  among  the  men.  1  say  little  o;  nothing,  being  satisfied  to  wait.  I  do  not  much  believe  in  fine-spun 
theories  all  depending  on  the  ice,  the  movements  of  which  can  be  put  as  much  faith  in  as  that  of  the  wind — 
indeed,  hardly  so  well.  We  had  seal  for  dinner.  It  was  equal  to  the  last ;  it  tasted  oily  and  fishy — a  black, 
soft  kind  of  flesh,  without  much  fi.'ier.  Ralston  told  me  he  could  not  keep  it  down.  Oh  for  a  musk-ox  or 
two!  I  have  read  "Put  yourself  in  his  place"  a  second  time,  and  am  now  galloping  through  some  other 
stories.  I  think  that  if  we  had  lots  of  fresh  meat  and  a  few  hundred  good  books  I  could  survive  another 
winter  here;  under  the  circumstances  I  do  not.  I  shaved  off  my  side  whiskers  on  the  2f.\;  they  reached 
behind  my  neck ;  wear  only  mustache  now. 

Monday,  August  6. — The  ice  is  about  the  same.  I  went  on  Cornhill  [Cairn  Hill]  this  evening.  I  have 
had  a  neuralgic  pain  in  head  all  day.  The  whale-boat  took  some  things  down  to  Dutchland  [Dutch  Island], 
The  ice  in  the  harbor  is  quite  loose. 

Dtesday,  August  7. — Took  a  walk  by  the  creek  to  the  east.  Several  men  have  been  on  Cornhill  [Cairn 
Hill],  and  a  good  deal  of  open  water  is  reported  in  Kennedy  Channel.  The  ice  at  this  end  of  the  harbor 
is  very  much  scattered  and  drifts  about  constantly.  Several  old  paleocrystic  floes  and  hummocks  have  made 
their  appearance.  I  suppose  they  have  come  in  through  the  western  entrance.  Yesterday  or  day  before 
Sergeant  Brainard  suggested  to  Lieutenant  Greely  having  the  small  boat  and  going  across  to  Baird  to  get 
a  look  down  the  straits,  but  the  latter  would  not  allow  it  on  the  score  of  danger.  Some  of  the  men  seem 
to  contemplate  a  hard  winter  here. 

Wednesday,  August  i. — It  has  been  blowing  all  day,  reaching  twenty-five  miles  [per  hour,  or  about  11" 
per  second]  or  thereabouts  from  the  south.  It  has  made  great  changes  in  the  ice,  so  much  so  that  operations 
have  been  on  float  since  noon  to  get  oflf  should  the  opportunity  occur.  Kennedy  Channel  is  clear  or  almost 
clear  of  ice,  and  two  leads  from  Baird  and  the  western  entrance  almost  meet.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  open 
water  opposite  Baird  and  Lieber  and  also  in  Hall's  Basin.  We  may  be  able  to  get  cif  to-night.  Every  one 
is  on  the  qui  vh't;  and  the  last  touches  are  being  put  on  the  operations.  However,  we  are  not  off'  yet,  and 
I  won't  believe  we  are  en  route  until  we  get  to  Baird.  A  lookout  has  been  kept  up  on  the  ice  all  or  almost 
all  of  the  day.  The  sky  is  overcast  with  dark  flying  clouds,  and  the  air  ;i  chilly  and  disagreeable,  I  do  not 
feel  as  if  I  was  going  away,  much  less  south  and  on  a  journey  such  as  this  may.be,  I  have  felt  much  more 
stirred  up  the  day  before  the  sledge  journey. 


I'  ( 


Ill 


368 


THE  LADY  FKANKLFX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


!     \ 

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1  ^  %   u 


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!! 


I 


KETREAT   SOUTH. 

T/iiirsii)ty,  An):;ust  9. — We  all  went  down  to  Dutchland  [Dutch  Island]  and  started  out — the  launch,  the 
whale-l)oat,  and  the  English  boat,  and  the  fmall  boat.  Proceeded  to  Preston's  [Proteus]  Point  and  left  there 
at  3  p.  m.  with  Lieutenant  Greely  and  everybody.  Reached  Bellot  Island  without  much  trouble,  but  after 
that  encountered  a  good  deal  of  ice  and  worked  very  hard.     Rice  fell  overboard. 

August  10,  p.  m.,  went  ashore  on  snow  [Sun]  peninsula.  Started  again,  and  about  2.30  a.  m.  got 
nipped  in  the  ice — everything  on  the  floe.  Then  turned  in  and  went  to  sleep  about  4  a.  m.  8.30  a.  ni., 
was  waked  up  by  Rice ;  boats  laid  up  again.  8.45  a.  m.,  started  west.  Here  we  proceeded  some  distance 
and  then  stopped,  while  I  went  with  Sergeant  Gardiner  and  .-iscertained  that  open  water  existed  all  the  way 
across  the  fiord.  Stopped  at  10  o'clock,  and  the  launch  started  again  in  about  an  hour.  Crossed  the 
fiord  nearly  opposite  Sun  Bay.  Found  plenty  of  open  water  on  the  south  side,  extending;  out  from  the 
shore  probably  two  or  three  miles.  Shipjjed  a  good  many  seas.  Reached  the  tent  near  Depot  B  [at  Baird] 
at  about  2  o'clock.  I  have  hardly  slept,  and  eaten  almost  nothing  since  we  started,  nor  sinco  we  started  until 
now  have  I  had  anything  to  drink  bi't  water.  T  did  not  succeed  in  sleeping  at  all,  and  very  few  of  the  men 
were  able  to  get  to  slee') ;  1 1, 15  {,.  m.,  started  with  four  bu.its  for  the  south. 

Aiij^iist  II,  p.  m.,  reached  bluff  about  a  mile  below  Lieber,  where  further  progress  was  stopped. 

Weatl.er  foggy  and  snowing.  Remained  here  a  few  minutes  .md  then  started  for  the  shore,  which  we 
reached  at  the  mouth  of  the  ravine  (the  same  where  Lieutenant  Greely,  Whisler,  and  I  ascended  mountain 
in  i88i).  At  2  o'clock  got  in  a  prot'jcted  i)lace  and  waited  for  the  ice  to  move  out.  I  went  to  bed  early  on 
ihe  shore.  Snowing.  8.30  a.  m.,  left  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Lieber  and  proceeded  south  along  the  coast.  Saw 
fighting  narwhals  one  or  two  miles  below.     V/eather  still  overcast  but  calm. 

12  ni.,  ran  into  a  fog  above  ("ape  Davis,  B.  W.  (or  P.  W.)  [barometer]  29.75  r7SS.'J4"""].  3  p.  m., 
le.iched  C.  [Carl]  Ritter  B.  [Ba/j  jhoa'  extending  out  from  shore.  Low  plain  alongshore  here.  Very 
foggy;  cannot  see  much.  Left  c;.che  near  Cape  Cracroft  at  10.30  a.  m.  4.20,  started  out  again  down 
straits  for  a  mile.  Hunter  found  a  shoal  about  six  inches  [about  150"""]  long  on  the  bar  under  the  water 
near  the  place  we  stopped  at.  Just  back  of  the  level  water  or  plain,  and  at  the  top  of  the  cliflf,  are  two 
sister  peaks,  maki'";  a  i)rominent  landmark.  After  starting  again  at  4.20  p.  m.  we  soon  afterwards  encoun- 
tered a  dense  fog,  and  after  wandering  around  among  the  ice,  and  staring  in  every  direction,  we  made  next 
stop  only  a  few  miles  below  last  slopping  place  at  6  o'clock  p.  m.  (first  new  ice  met — that  at  5.15  p.  m.);  con- 
tinued close  along  the  shore.  11.15  P-  '^'■>  stopped  along  the  ahore  to  rest.  Ice  moving  north  though  the 
tide  is  running  in.  Seemed  more  clear.  Very  toggy  during  most  of  the  journey.  Do  not  know  where  we 
are.  We  were  stopped  by  ice  for  half  an  hour  along  shore  a  half  miK";  back,  rurned  in  on  shore  and  went 
to  sleep. 

August  1 2. — 7.50  a.  m,,  got  up.  Boats  aground.  9.20  a.  m.,  started  off  down  south.  1 2  m.,  stopped  on 
shore  to  reconnoiter.  2.30,  stopped  again  to  reconnoiter.  A  great  deal  of  ice  nu  t  with.  We  are  still  above 
Carl  Ritter  Bay.  4  p.  m.,  started  again ;  foggy,  snowy,  and  SE.  wind.  4.30  p.  m.,  stopped  by  ice  again, 
exactly  opposite  small  island.  Had  coffee  here.  Corporal  [Sergeant]  Elison  went  down  coast  and  found 
one  of  his  old  canps.  He  says  we  .^re  four  and  a  half  miles  from  Carl  Ritter  Bay.  It  is  now  snowing  and 
very  foggy.  Watch  reported  clear  water;  so  at  8  o'clock  ah  hands  were  called,  and  at  8.30  p.  ni.  we  got 
off  again.  9.40  p.  m.,  reached  Carl  Ritter  Bay;  took  on  the  stores  left  there.  Reached  south  cape  of  bay 
in  fifty  minutes.  When  pressing  over  'bund  little  ice,  an  1  gradually  became  le^  and  '"ss  for  some  hours.  It 
has  been  blowing  and  snowing  and  very  disagreeable  must  of  the  day.  Aiier  crossing  Carl  Ritter  Bay  we 
kept  on,  encountering  very  little  ice  indeed. 

August  13. — 1.45  a.  m.,  reached  ice  barrier  extending  across  to  the  south  as  far  as  eyes  could  reach; 
about  ten  niile^  below  Carl  Ritter  Bay  stopped  over  and  went  to  bed.  7.15  a.  ni.,  called  again  for  break- 
fast. At  8  o'clock  I  went  with  Jans  [Jens]  on  foot  down  the  coast  about  one  and  a  half  miles,  and  should 
say  saw  about  a  mile  farther  than  tliis.  There  was  a  dark  passage  clc  e  along  the  ice  field.  Outside  all  was 
ice, ice,  ice.  Got  back  at  10  ./clock,  ii.io  a.,  ra.,  started  again  with  the  launch.  All  hands  steamed  down 
'.he  coast  about  a  mile,  where  we  were  stopped  again  by  ice  r.t  1 1.30  a.  m.  It  is  now  snowing  and  very  foggy. 
There  is  a  small  bay  just  below  here.  The  ice  extends  to  the  east  and  southeast  as  far  as  can  be  seen.  We 
are  12  or  15  miles,  probably,  below  Carl  Xitler  Bay.  4  p.m.,  nil  hands  called  again  and  we  proceeded. 
Met  with  a  great  der.l  of  hard  ice.     Weather,  snowing  and  very  foggy.     7  p.  m.,  reached  the  shore  a  few 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  liAY  EXPEDITION. 


369 


miles  below  last  [)lrtre,  near  the  little  hay,  and  canijjed  here.  Small  seal  shot  near  here,  which  we  had  for 
Slipper.  It  was  very  good  indeed.  Wind  changed  and  now  blowing  a  little  from  the  south.  Hail  supper 
here  and  turned  in  at  lo  o'clock. 

Aii^^int  14. — Hreakfast  at  8  o'clock — pemniican  stew.  Wind  from  the  northeast,  and  the  ice  very  much 
the  same.  Slept  on  shore  last  night  as  usual.  I  sle|)t  without  any  protection  except  that  of  the  bag.  Some 
of  the  men  went  hunting  last  night,  but  got  nothing — saw  nothing.  Remained  iiere  during  the  14th.  tiot 
meridian  observation  at  noon  by  Israel.  Made  latitude  80  deg.  44  niin.  Turned  in  at  10  p.m.  The 
weather  is  clearing  up,  and  the  wind  begins  to  blow  a  little  from  the  north.  Supper  consisted  of  a  bifd- 
stew,  cofl'ee,  and  hard  bread. 

////^"//.f/  1 5. — Very  tuie  day,  bright  and  clear,  with  light  wind  from  the  N  K.  The  ice  has  hardly  changed, 
though  it  is  drifting  south  slowly.  New  ice  formed  near  the  sliore  during  the  night.  A  danger  of  open 
water  pool  out  in  the  straits  opiiosite  camp.  There  is  a  marked  absence  of  paleocrystic  ice  in  the  straits. 
It  all  seems  to  consist,  except  a  berg  here  and  there,  of  ice  formed  in  the  straits.  Not  many  «  iter  leads 
visible  this  morning.  Ice,  ice,  ice  in  every  direction.  8  a.  m,,  breakfast — peinmican,  hard  bread,  and  coffee. 
Slept  on  shore  last  night,  as  I  do  always.  Pretty  much  every  one  now  as  well  sleeps  on  the  shore  when 
the  op|)ortunity  occurs. 

Aii'^iist  Fs- — VV^ind  from  the  northeast  all  day.  Got  up  to  a  good  breakfast,  and  Lieutenant  C.reely 
thought  that  the  new  ice  enlarged  and  danger  of  freezing  us  in,  and  determined  to  move  the  launch  and 
boats  off  shore  a  half  mile  to  some  ground  bergs.  We  started  al)out  9  o'clock  and  employed  all  hands, 
and  managed  to  get  the  launch  out  with  a  great  deal  ■  labor  through  the  old  and  new  ice  at  3.30  p.  ni. 
Then  all  hands  returned  to  shore,  and  at  5.30  p.  m.,  after  supper,  I  started  with  the  men  and  boats.  T  i'"! 
tenant  Clreely  and  some  others  remaining  on  the  launch.  Got  the  boats  and  their  loads  out  to  a  ground[ed] 
berg  just  north  of  the  launch  in  about  two  hours.  Young  ice  has  formed  quite  thick  and  has  become  very 
threatening.  The  ice  has  been  moving  down  the  straits  very  fast  all  day.  Sergeant  Cross  was  apparently 
drunk  on  the  launch  while  we  were  getting  her  out  from  shore.  At  one  time  he  looked  out  on  the  deck  and 
said  the  launch  was  going  to  be  crushed;  all  the  time  it  was  none  of  his  business.  He  showed  his  con- 
dition by  his  appearance,  his  manner,  and  neglecting  to  obey  orders  promptly.  Finally  Lieutenant  Greefy 
sent  him  ashore  and  put  the  engine  in  charge  of  Frederick.  Cross  has  been  assigned  to  the  whale-boat 
(Rice).     I  took  a  drink  of  rum,  rum  being  shared  to  all. 

August  16. — I  slept  on  the  berg  last  night,  laying  my  sleeping-bag  on  top  of  th.e  spare  sheep-skin  one, 
and  thus  slept  quite  comfortably.  Rice  and  his  crew  slept  on  the  berg,  but  the  rest  in  the  boats.  Breakfast 
this  morning  about  8.30  a.  m.  The  northeast  wind  still  continues,  driving  the  ice  down  the  straits  in  one 
confused  mass.  No  open  water  can  be  seen  anywhere.  Hreakfast  consisted  of  coftee,  hard  bread,  and 
corned  beef.  Affairs  do  not  look  very  auspicious.  We  have  50  days'  rations  from  Carl  Ritter  Hay.  g.30 
p.  m.,  on  board  launch.  I  have  come  over  on  a  visit.  It  seems  palatial  here  compared  with  the  berg  where 
I  have  my  sleeping-bag  and  my  present  bed.  One  can  get  from  there  here  by  traveling  in  a  semicircle 
around  some  intervening  bergs.  I  discovered  this  route  myself.  This  evening  Hrainard,  in  endeavoring  to 
get  over  directly  across  the  wind  [pack],  got  in  the  water  up  to  his  waist.  Ice,  ice,  ice,  everywhere  round,  and 
still  extending;  a  narrow  lead  of  some  length  which  extends  from  the  cape  above  obliquely  down  the  straits. 
The  ice  in  the  straits  seemed  to  be  crushed  and  broken  uj).  The  fires  here  on  the  launch  are  kept  up  night 
and  day;  Frederick  says  he  burns  about  80  pounds  per  day.  Rice  and  the  crew  of  the  whale-boat  have  moved 
from  the  berg  down  to  the  boat  itself.  I  am  the  only  one  now  left  on  the  berg.  To-day  I  gave  Brainard, 
Ralston,  Linn,  F^lison,  Jewell,  Salor,  and  Frederick  memoranda  of  my  [indebtedness]  to  them,  /.  c,  to  the  first 
$112,  $64  to  the  next  three,  and  $48  to  the  last  three.  At  full  tide  this  evening,  at  about  10  o'clock, 
noticed  a  large  paleocrystic  floe  .about  a  mile  from  shore,  going  north,  and  outside  of  it  ice  near  mid-channel, 
going  south. 

August  17. — Beautiful  morning;  bright,  clear,  and  calm.  Breakfast  at  8  o'clock.  After  breakfast  I 
went  over  to  the  launch,  and  we  moved  nearer  to  the  berg  where  the  boats  are  without  using  steam.  The 
young  ice  is  now  quite  thick,  but  in  many  places  is  constantly  broken  up  by  the  tides  and  action  of  the  ice. 
Slight  breeze  from  the  west  starting  up  in  the  afternoon.  Ice  may  be  still  noticed  going  south,  though  very 
slowly.  A  small  lane  from  the  cliff  .above  us,  stretching  oblicjuely  down-stream,  is  all  the  open  water  visible. 
Open  water  seen  along  the  Greenland  shore  last  night,  stretching  up  and  down  some  distance.  Such  a  day  as 
this  seems  heavenly  compared  with  the  weather  we  have  had  to  endure  for  some  time  past.  No  game.  We 
obtained  water  from  a  small  pool  on  the  berg,  but  have  to  break  through  young  ice  to  get  it.  It  snowed 
last  night. 

n.  Mis.  .m? 24 


>'    f 


i    I 


370 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXrUDlTION. 


This  evening  Lieutenant  Greely  sent  for  the  spare  sheep-skin  slccping-bag  which  I  hail  been  using  under 
mine.  I  cannot  continue  to  he  on  the  berg ;  this  necessitates  my  removal  to  one  of  the  boats  where  I  now 
am,  on  board  the  Valorous.  This  boat  and  the  "  I'halarope"  [Jhniinwnt],  as  the  men  call  iicr,  and  the  whale- 
boat  all  lie  gathered  in  a  little  harbor  formed  by  three  icebergs,  all  protected  from  the  wind  and  ice.  There  are 
five  of  us  on  this  boat;  six  on  each  of  the  others.  'I'hc  sleeping-bags  are  arianged  on  the  masts  and  sides  in 
some  way  or  other,  and  we  manage  to  make  out.  How  tiresome  and  dreary  this  life  is,  it  is  ditVicult  to  ex- 
press. 1  went  on  land  this  afternoon.  The  whole  east  side  of  the  straits  seem  to  be  clear  of  ice,  and  op|)osite 
Franklin  Island  there  is  open  water  for  half-way  across.  Down  the  straits  in  mid-channel  no  ice  can  be 
seen  at  all  in  a  certain  direction.  Yet  from  the  berg  here  all  seems  to  be  ice  as  far  as  can  be  seen.  The 
open  water  does  us  no  good  as  it  is  at  present,  as  we  cannot  reach  it.  Oh,  for  a  west  or  southwest  wind ! 
We  had  snow  last  night.  Long  fell  through  the  ice  into  the  water  near  the  berg  to-night.  I'emmican  and 
coffee  for  supper. 

Augiisl  i8. — A  heavy  weight  of  snow  has  been  falling  all  day.  It  commenced  in  the  night.  This  morn- 
ing we  were  all  covered.  Boats  managed  to  place  the  sails  so  as  to  form  part  protection,  'i'his  afternoon 
one  of  the  bergs  just  by  split  in  two;  it  created  (|uite  a  commotion  in  the  waters,  and  raised  a  little  tidal 
wave.  This  berg  is  about  15  feet  [4.5"']  high.  The  watch  reports  a  good  deal  of  open  water,  and  some  men 
have  been  sent  for  by  Lieutenant  Greely  this  afternoon  to  man  [move]  the  launch,  but  just  where  or  how  far  I 
do  not  know.  Everything  is  wet  and  damp,  cold,  and  dreary  in  the  extreme.  Nothing  can  be  done  but  lie  in 
the  sleeping-bag,  or  go  out  on  the  berg  and  pace  up  and  down  in  the  storm.  The  wind  is  now  from  the  south- 
east, but  there  is  not  much  of  it  here.  Breakfast  this  morning  of  corned  beef,  beans,  one-half  can  of  each ;  that 
is,  half  a  pound  of  the  former  and  about  ten  ounces  of  the  latter.  The  ration  of  hard  bread  is  a  pound ;  i)em- 
mican  a  pound.  The  launch  succeeded  in  getting  the  other  side  of  the  berg  to  which  she  was  attached  to 
about  one  or  two  hundred  yards  [about  90  or  180'"]  of  open  water.  The  ice  has  been  Hoating  both  north 
and  south.  Its  chief  direction  seems  to  be  south.  'J"he  wind  seems  to  have  more  effect  than  the  tiile.  'I'he 
straits  are  still  comparatively  free  of  ice  some  distance  outside.  Things  look  rather  gloomy  at  times.  Tlie 
snow  falls  constantly,  and  everything  is  wet  and  dreary.  The  men  seem  to  be  in  pretty  good  spirits,  most 
of  them,  but  there  are  many  gloomy  forebodings.  Living  about  a  boat  all  day  in  this  way  the  blood 
becomes  chilled,  and  it  is  haul  to  keep  warm.  8.30  p.  m.,  call  from  the  launch  to  bring  the  boats,  accord- 
ing to  which  we  started  and  with  little  difficulty  reached  the  launch  in  half  an  hour.  In  one  and  a  half 
hours  more  we  had  got  the  launch  to  open  water,  by  the  aid  of  all  the  men.  1 1  p.  m.,  we  started  with  boats 
in  tow.  Resumed  my  place  on  the  launch  and  started.  Lieutenant  Greely  fell  off  the  launch  overboard. 
Kislingbury  and  I  got  him  by  the  arm  as  the  float  returned  and  hauled  him  in.  Farther  on  we  ran  between 
two  rapidly  moving  floes,  which  presented  danger  of  a  nip.     It  stopped  snowing  by  the  time  we  left. 

Augiiil  19. — After  a  good  run  through  open  water,  encountering  very  little  ice  except  in  small  pieces, 
much  scattered,  we  went  into  a  little  dock  formed  by  two  bergs  along  the  ice-foot,  at  3.30  a.  m.  Four  and 
a  half  hours  on  the  run;  distance  probably  15  miles,  and  perhaps  7  or  8  miles  from  Caije  Lawrence.  The 
weather  is  clear,  being  beautiful,  and  the  day  bids  fair  to  be  fine.  No  wind  of  any  account.  Launch 
slightly  aground  at  low  water  at  present  place.  The  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  here  is  tremendous — from  the 
foot  of  an  ice-foot,  probably  ten  or  twelve  feet  [about  3  or  3.5'"]  high,  over  and  above  it  two  or  three  feet 
[.6  or  .9"'].  7  a.  m.,  breakfast,  before  and  after  which  I  got  a  little  sleep,  a  couple  of  hours  in  all.  At 
10.10  a.  m.,  a  lead  showing  itself  to  the  next  headland  down  the  coast,  we  proceed.  Passed  this  headland, 
and  got  some  distance  beyond  in  the  course  of  an  hour — probably  three  or  four  miles — when  the  ice  closed 
up,  and  for  an  hour  and  a  half  we  worked  to  get  through,  succeeded  in  reaching  it,  passed  above  the  head- 
land referred  to  at  1 2.40  p.  m.  Weather  fine,  bright  and  clear.  General  character  of  the  ice  seems  loose 
and  broken  up  with  a  great  deal  of  sludge.  Made  the  boats  and  launch  fast  along  shore.  The  ice  outside 
runs  north  like  a  mill  race.  Some  machinery  broke  down  while  we  were  in  the  moving  ice,  but  it  was  fixed 
temporarily  until  we  reached  shore.  Has  since  been  made  all  right  again.  5.15  p.  m.,  started  again  and 
got  along  with  the  thickly  packed  sludge  until  6.15  p.  m.,  when  we  went  into  shore  again.  We  are  still 
above  Cape  Lawrence. 

8.IO  p.m..  Sergeant  Brainard  with  Frederik  [Christiansen]  started  out  for  Cape  Lawrence  along 
the  shore.  The  straits  seem  full  of  great  masses  of  broken  up  ice,  which  are  now  floating  south  with  the 
flood-tide.  Full  moon  came  out  to-night.  Several  seals  made  their  appearance  near  the  launch  and  were 
unsuccessfully  shot  at  by  Lieutenant  Kislingbury.     It  is  now  (9  p.m.)  quite  calm  and  clear;  that  is,  the 


i^»iil^i^,.;-;S»fl^. 


TDK  LADY  FRANKLIN  1»AY   KM'KDITION. 


371 


air  is  clear,  tliough  the  sun  is  not  shining.  Lieutenant  Greely  intended  going  out  into  the  pack  with  the 
launch  and  boats,  after  suii[H'r,  and  drift  south  with  it,  but  gave  it  up  on  account  of  the  ice  packing  against 
the  projection  below  here,     I  slept  on  shore  to-night. 

.iiigiist  20. — Waked  up  at  4.30  a.  ni.  Much  open  water  ajjpeared  ahjng  the  shore.  4.40,  started 
otT.  Sergeant  Urainard  iiad  not  returned.  We  got  along  cpiite  readily.  Discerned  Seri;eant  lirainard, 
Frederik  [C'hristiansen|,  and  doctor  above,  on  shore  near  I'ape  Lawrence,  and  took  them  <>n  board.  Ser- 
geant {{rainard  had  been  to  the  cape  and  found  i';e.  Reported  a  pack  stretching  from  Ca|)e  Lawrence 
across  to  Ca|)e  Jackson.  Weather  very  fine;  light  wind  from  the  soutliwest.  6.55  a.  m.,  stopped  just 
south  of  Cape  Lawrence,  and  the  men  had  breakfast.  Breakfast  on  the  launch  sjme  little  time  before — 
penimican,  hard  bread  and  butter,  and  tea.  Lieutenant  IJreely  wati  hed  along  the  shore  some  distance. 
10.15  ''^'  '"•'  st'ifti-'d  again.  Encountered  little  ice  until  off  Rawlins  l!ay,  when  a  great  deal  of  sludge  was 
n>et  with.  The  pack  stretches  to  the  left  along  shore  here,  and  probably  extends  in  a  series  of  tloes  of  different 
sizes  all  the  way  across.  The  mouth  of  this  bay  appears  to  be  occupied  by  broken  up  sludge  ice.  11.15 
a.  m.,  sto[)i)ed  again  on  shore,  on  north  side  of  Rawlins  Bay  near  its  moutli.  Sky  to  the  southwest  very 
thick  and  foggy,  and  threatening  snow.  Several  seals  seen  to-day.  They  are  of  tlaily  occurrence.  Saw 
also  a  gull,  called  an  ''  Ivory"  by  Lieutenant  Greely.  Some  birds  near  our  stopping  place  last  night  made 
a  great  noise;  Rice  and  others  thought  they  were  falcons.  4  p.  m.,  ihe  launch  was  found  aground,  and 
it  was  impossible  to  get  her  off.  The  top  of  the  ice-Hoe  is  now  on  a  level  with  her  smoke-stack ;  she  lies 
alongside  of  a  precipice  of  ice.  Lieutenant  Greely  intended  starting  this  afternoon,  having  seen  from  the 
heights  open  water  across  the  bay  in  one  place.  It  is  now  contem[)lated  to  start  as  soon  as  the  launch 
floats.  Several  seals  fired  at.  Wolf,  fox,  and  ermine  ti.icks,  and  dung  of  musk-oxen  seen  near  hereby 
Lieutenant  Greely.     Vegetation  in  this  vicinity  very  niui  h  resembles  that  about  Fort  Conger. 

8.30  p.  m.,  started  again.  Had  to  make  (juite  a  detour  to  get  across  Rawlins  Bay.  Several  paleo- 
crystic  floes  were  inside  of  it.  Afterwards  encountered  a  good  deal  of  rubble-ice  and  also  more  open 
water.     Crossed  the  bay  in  two  hours. 

Aiii^iist  21. — 12.20,  reached  cape  some  few  miles  farther  on,  and  camped  for  the  night  after  a  vain 
endeavor  to  get  farther  against  the  ebb-tide  which  had  just  commencetl  to  run  north.  Left  this  harbor  and 
went  up  the  coast  a  (juarter  of  a  mile  and  moored  the  vessels  between  two  bergs.  Weather  during  the  last 
run  extremely  foggy,  making  it  most  difficult  to  find  a  route.  Near  bay^  very  indistinct,  anil  distant  bays 
quite  invisible.  The  tides  along  this  coast  are  more  rising,  and  falling  sonu-  12  or  15  feet  [about  3.5  to  4.5'"]. 
The  ice-foot  may  be  put  as  at  about  10  feet  [3'"]  vertical  height  usually.  On  account  of  the  moving  ice 
and  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides,  &c.,  it  is  about  as  difiicult  to  find  a  suitable  place  for  the  launch  as  it  would 
be  for  a  large  ship. 

7  a.  ni.,  tried  to  sleep  on  board  launch  last  night,  lying  on  my  sleeping-bag  in  the  stern,  but  hardly 
got  two  hours'  rest.  Got  up  again  at  4.30  a.  m.  and  found  a  large  paleocrystic  floe  bearing  obliquely  in, 
being  pushed  by  a  large  floe  behind  it.  The  berg  saved  us.  We  were  pushed  a  little,  however,  so  that  we 
took  the  ground  slightly.  Weather  overcast,  cold  and  dreary.  A  good  many  dovekies  seen  every  day.  We 
started  about  10  a.  m.,  after  allowing  the  best  opportunity  to  pass  in  waiting  for  Sergeant  Jewell,  who  had 
gone  off  on  the  heights  to  take  a  look.  I  lay  down  to  get  some  rest  while  Brainard  did  the  starting.  After 
ruuning  about  an  hour  through  much  ice  I  was  suddenly  called,  and  on  getting  up  and  going  out  found 
that  the  risk  of  a  nipping  all  over  imminent.  The  whale-boat  got  a  nip  which  sprained  some  of  her  timbers 
and  just  managed  to  get  the  other  boats  out  in  time.  Likewise  there  was  much  difficulty  with  the  launch. 
Large  cakes  of  ice  and  sludge  were  running  rapidly  north.  We  stopped  about  a  mile  from  Cape  Wilkes. 
Then  walked  down  to  the  cape  to  gef  a  look  for  a  better  harbor  than  our  present  place  affords.  The  straits, 
except  a  few  leads,  seem  full  of  sludge  ice,  with  here  and  there  a  large  floe,  though  I  saw  a  lead  running 
across  Richardson  Bay. 

P.  m.,  left  stopping  place  near  Cape  Wilkes  and  foumi  very  good  traveling  for  some  distance  into 
Richardson  Bay.  There,  however,  we  got  into  several  blind  leads  and  had  to  make  several  long  detours. 
The  ice  was  so  thick  that  it  stopped  the  launch  even  after  all  the  boats  had  been  dropped,  and  great  efforts 
were  necessary  to  get  through.  However,  by  perseverance  we  finally  accomplished  it  and  crossing  open- 
water  spaces,  and  winding  through  pools  we  finally  got  through  and  made  the  shore  on  the  south  side  of 
the  bay,  some  distance  from  its  mouth,  in  a  few  hours.  We  examined  this  vicinity  for  the  English  rations 
left  by  Nares  at  Cape  Collinson,  but  without  success.     Stopped  here  an  hour  and  then  continued  on  to  the 


iill 

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till 


! ;!: 


I 


372 


THE  LADV  THANKLIN  HAY   KXl'EDITION. 


ia|)e  at  the  south  side  of  the  hay  at  its  mouth.  No  rations  were  found  licrc.  We  reached  this  place  at  7 
o'clock,  about.  Serjeant  Urainard  widi  Uendcr  sees  |noes|  to  the  west  (ape,  ilistant  almij;  shore  i>erha|)s  four 
miles.  Weather  overcast  hut  clear.  'I'he  straits  are  lull  of  slud^;i'  and  Hoes  small  and  large.  There  is  no 
wind  of  any  account.     Got  to  bed  on  shore  about  9  p.  m. 

.lux'H.'i/  32. — Was  wakened  up  at  4.15,  and  about  4._^o  we  got  off.  Proceeded  aloiif,',  and  alter  various 
stops  and  delays  rcache<l  Joiner  Hay  about  9  a.  m.  Here  we  slopjieil  some  time,  while  1  went  along  the 
coast  and  found  a  harbor  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  farther  on.  doing  l)a<  k  anil  reporting  this  to  Lieu- 
tenant (ireely,  the  launch  and  boats  started  and  went  into  a  little  natural  dork  formed  by  three  bergs  and 
fully  protected  from  the  ice  and  wind.  At  Cape  Collinson  we  took  on  the  240  I'jiglish  rations.  The  bread 
had  been  partially  eaten  by  foxes,  but  the  rest  (about  half)  was  all  right.  Weather  during  the  day  foggy 
and  drizzling  at  times.  Launch  ran  afoul  of  a  small  <ake  of  ii  e  while  Lieutenant  (ireely  was  dire(  ting  her 
course  and  <lisarranged  some  of  the  machinery.  Seals  and  dovekies  seen  during  the  day.  We  are  now 
about  latitude  80°. 

Kemained  in  little  ice  dock.  Lieutenant  (Ireely  and  some  others  got  some  sleep,  but  I  got  none,  as 
I  could  not  get  ashore  olf  the  berg  except  by  boat.  The  men  arranged  sails  over  the  boats,  and  most  of 
them  slept.  The  weather  was  drizzling  and  raining,  with  a  dull  southwest  wind — very  disagreeable.  3  p.  m., 
the  ice  openctl  up  along  shore  and  lay  scattered  out  in  Scoresby  Hay,  so  we  started  and  ran  up  the  hay  a  mile 
or  two,  when  we  turned  to  the  right  and  went  ashore  to  get  a  look  at  the  condition  of  the  ice.  A  lead  was 
seen  running  across  the  bay,  though  much  filled  with  broken  ice.  About  this  time  Frederick  discovered  that 
the  pump  of  the  engine  leaked.  About  half-way  across  the  bay  we  got  through  the  ice  entirely,  and  entered  a 
vast  e.xpanse,  covered,  however,  with  a  thick  fog  shutting  out  the  land.  Found  a  i)ack  of  paleocrystic  ice 
on  the  south  shore  and  rounded  it  near  the  farther  cape.  Saw  here  two  very  large  bergs  aground  a  long 
way  from  shore.  5.45  p.  m.,  reached  Cajie  Norton  Shaw  and  found  the  water  along  shore  very  clear  of  ice, 
though  the  pack  lay  outside  heavy  as  ever.  6.15  p.  m,,came  to  a  place  after  floating  along  shoie  and  came 
in  close,  and  we  were  unable  to  go  farther.     Selected  a  harbor  near  by  and  stoppe<l. 

Aiii^iist  23. — (lot  up  at  8  a.  m.  after  a  very  satisfactory  sleep  on  board  launch,  one  of  the  few  good  rests 
I  have  had  on  this  trip.  It  w.is  too  low  water,  and  a  good  deal  of  o|)en  water  along  shore.  8.30  a.  m., 
started  and  ran  up  [down]  the  coast  for  a  half  hour,  .ibout  one  and  a  half  miles,  I  suppose.  We  then  came 
to  a  projecting  point,  against  which  ])ack  was  crowded  so  close  as  to  stop  farther  progress.  The  boats 
were  moored  along  shore  a  few  hundred  yards  to  the  south,  but  it  w.is  not  a  good  |)lace,  and  after  awhile  the 
pack  from  above  came  moving  down-stream  against  boats,  and  they  escaped  narrowly  being  nipped.  The 
red  boat  [  Va/oroiis]  was  forced  to  fly  up  to  the  point  referred  to  before  fmding  a  safe  place.  At  this  place  a 
considerable  space  of  open  water  exists  by  reason  of  a  number  of  bergs  aground  near  shore,  forming  a  kind 
of  breakwater.  The  sun  shines  overhead  but  it  is  very  foggy  around  the  horizon  for  some  distance  in  alti- 
tude, so  that  nothing  can  be  seen  beyond  a  half  mile.  The  men  have  put  their  sleeping-bags  out  on  shore 
to  dry,  and  are  sunning  themselves  on  the  beach.  It  is  only  on  the  beach,  and  other  few  places  here  and 
there,  that  there  is  not  a  great  deal  of  snow.  Latitude  of  this  place,  by  meridian  observation  by  Israel, 
79  deg.  51  min.;  high  tide  at  2.15  p.  ni. 

3  p.  m.  the  ice  opened  up,  and  we  started  again  and  ran  through  open  water  for  thirty  minutes.  It 
gradually  took  us  out  from  tlie  shore  a  little  ways,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  we  again  encountered  pack. 
It  was  foggy  and  snowy;  could  not  see  very  well.  Lieutenant  Greely  proposed  leaving  the  boats  attached 
to  the  fioe,  but  afterwards,  at  my  suggestion,  decided  to  attempt  running  into  land.  We  worked  our  way 
through  dense  masses  of  sluilge  ice  until  about  4  o'clock,  when  we  were  ."ible  to  gei  no  farther,  and  moored 
alongside  of  a  little  floe  about  25  by  35  yards  [about  23  by  32'"]  dimensions.  The  fog  became  thicker 
and  heavier.  We  are  still  here  antici])at:ng  a  nip,  but  have  had  none.  The  boats  are  parti.illy  pulled  up  on 
the  floe.  Things  look  somewhat  gloomy.  Thick  sludge  ice  all  around,  and  no  open  water  now  in  sight. 
A  slight  air  stirring  is  from  the  northeast.  There  may  be  a  very  .slight  motion  of  the  floe  out  from  the  land, 
but  it  is  almost  imperceptible.  The  surrounding  ice  is  mostly  small  pieces,  with  sludge  in  between.  One 
very  large  and  another  smaller  berg  are  off  to  the  south  a  few  hundred  yards.  We  are  now  about  a  mile  or 
so  on  the  north  side  of  the  projecting  headland,  which  is  prob.ably  Cape  John  Barrow.  Steam  is  kept  up 
all  the  time  and  has  been  on  the  whole  trip,  tiie  fire  going  out  but  on  two  occasions,  so  Linn  says.  About 
So  pounds  a  day  are  necess.iry  for  banking.  The  wood  of  the  small  boat  recently  broken  up  is  being  used 
to-night  for  banking,  as  we  have  but  a  half  box  of  coal  left,  hardly  enough  for  a  d.-iy's  run. 


TlIK  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  EXl'EUlTlUN'. 


373 


-•i 


12  o'clock  luidDi^lit.  I  have  boon  on  watch,  I/iLMitcnant  {Irecly  sleeping.  Tlic  Ico  has  chaiitied  hut  ;i 
little.  'I'lic  Hoe  we  are  attac  hed  to  seems  to  liave  moved  out  somewhat  f:i)m  land,  and  also  very  slightly 
to  the  south.  Certain  movements  in  the  ice  have  at  li' .cs  ciuiseil  me  some  apprehension,  and  the  "  I'hala- 
rope"  [/i/rrM;//('///|  was])ulled  uj)  higher,  the  ice  pressing  ai,ainst  her.  Kvery  once  in  a  while  the  i<  c  moves 
slightly,  wit!)  a  low  grinding  noise.     It  is  dithcult  to  expl.'in. 

August  2:^. —  1.30  a.m.  Lieutenant  Oreely  <  anie  on  deck  and  sent  me  below  for  some  sleep.  I  did 
not  wake  up  until  after  wc  had  reached  land.  It  seems  that  about  6  o'clock  the  ice  loosened  up  sufiu;iently 
to  get  under  way,  and  in  the  course  of  twenty  minutes  we  were  aliK;  to  get  in  to  the  ice-foot.  We  drifteil 
about  ii  mile.  Weather  very  foggy  and  snowing;  wet,  dri/./ling,  and  generally  disagreeable.  9  a.m.,  our 
little  indentation  along  the  ice-foot  alTorded  poor  shelter.  The  ice  moving  rapidly  to  the  south  threateneil  to 
(rush  the  boats, all  of  which  could  not  get  into  tiie  little  place.  As  a  choice  between  two  evils,  I  recom- 
mended dropping  down  with  the  tide  to  a  better  harbor  about  a  (juarter  of  a  mile  below.  This  we  accord- 
ingly did  with  the  launch  and  the  /h-diiniont,  the  two  other  boats  remaining.  We  work  I  through  the 
sludge  and  small  floes  and  pieces  with  some  risk,  but  accomplisiied  it  subseiiuently.  The  wind  is  now  from 
the  northeast.  There  is  a  body  of  ojien  water  some  distance  otV  shore  to  the  ncrtheast,  but  elsewhere  the 
ice  seems  heavily  jiacked.  We  are  now  at  the  north  cape  of  .Maury  Day.  Sergeant  Hrainard  returned  at 
II  a.m.  from  the  farther  side  of  this  bay.  He  reached  what  is  doubtless  Capt.'  Fra/er.  Could  see  little 
ways  beyond.  Found  ice  heavily  packed.  11  p.  m.,  we  are  still  here.  The  launch  and  boats  have  been 
moved  in  between  some  grounded  bergs  and  the  ice-foot,  in  a  very  secure  position.  The  rise  and  fall  of  the 
tide  here  is  immense.  At  high  tide  we  were  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  adjoining  berg.  Now  we  .'•re 
way  below  it.  The  weather  is  very  foggy,  and  thick  and  drizzling — ilisagreeable  in  the  extreme.  However, 
in  the  launch  here  we  are  pretty  comfortable,  uniler  the  turtle  back.  The  ico  has  open^  up  somewhat,  but 
still  there  is  no  ojijiortunity  of  leaving.  The  fire.s  under  the  boilers  are  kept  banked  with  odd  pieces  of 
wood,  lockers  of  the  launch,  &c.     Pemmican,  tea,  and  hard  bread  is  our  staple  article  of  diet. 

August  25. — 4.40  a.  m.  started  off,  the  ice  being  loose  enough  and  forming  small  lanes  and  pools  of 
open  water  here  and  there.  More  or  less  fog  all  the  time.  Light  breeze  from  the  southwest  made  it  quite 
uncomfortable  for  me  at  the  rudder.  Passed  two  small  hays.  7  a.m.,  stojjpeil.  unable  to  go  farther.  There 
is  a  large  bay  ahead,  with  high,  precipitous  clift's  on  the  farther  side.  I  think  it  must  be  Dobbin  Hay.  Used 
about  entire  load  of  coal  in  the  run  this  nu)rning.  The  ice  is  moving  slowly  north  with  the  ebb-tide.  I 
think  we  have  just  passed  Point  Hayes.  12  ni.  Still  here  awaiting  a  break  in  the  ice,  which  has  rounded 
up  somewhat,  but  still  keeps  together  too  close  to  make  farth  :;  progress  to  the  south.  We  are  moored  to 
a  large,  sloping  berg.  Israel  made  the  latitude  79  deg.  45  min.,  out  expressed  a  good  deal  of  doubt  as  to  the 
accuracy  of  it.  This  woulil  place  us  opposite  Cap.  ^'"'•azer.  I  w.as  out  also  with  my  sextant,  by  Lieutenant 
(Ireely's  wishes,  but  did  nothing,  the  marker  being  too  dirty.  F'rederik  [Christiansen]  shot  a  seal  about  11 
o'clock ;  we  got  him  before  he  sunk.  It  is  clear  overhead,  at  times  the  sun  shines,  but  arounil  the  horizon 
very  foggy.  Some  of  the  men  drank  the  blood  of  the  seal — IJender,  Israel,  &c.  Bender,  Biederbick,  and 
Long  reached  their  convalescence. 

5.40  p.  m.  Open  water  reported  some  time  previously,  and  at  this  hour  we  started.  Got  through  the 
broken  pack-ice  in  ten  minutes  and  came  to  what  looked  like  an  open  sea.  But,  unfortunately,  a  dense  fog 
set  in.  However,  ice  was  seen  ahead,  and,  after  an  hour's  run,  we  ran  in  near  shore  and  stopped  by  some 
grounded  bergs.  Had  supper  here  of  the  seal  shot.  A  very  hne  natural  dock  near  by,  and  basin  with 
ice-foot  running  all  around,  and  an  outlet  through  a  narrow  gateway.  F'rom  the  top  of  the  berg  open 
water  was  seen  again  beyond  this  ice,  which  ran  out  from  the  shore  like  a  tongue,  projecting  into  the  strait  a 
couple  of  miles  out  to  a  large  iceberg.  .\t  7.25  p.  m.  left  again  and  went  around  this  tongue;  encountered 
a  dense  fog  and  lost  sight  of  land  for  awhile;  continued  on  down  the  coast,  very  dense  fog  continuing.  In 
two  and  a  half  hours  met  ice  again,  extending  out  from  shore  indefinitely;  could  not  get  by  and  ran  into 
shore,  reaching  it  at  10.05  p.  ni.  Jewell,  Ellis,  anil  Frederick  were  sent  down  to  Cape  Louis  Napoleon, 
some  few  miles  ahead  of  us.  Some  of  the  men  went  to  work  on  the  tongue  of  the  Hoe  projecting  against 
the  shore,  which  seems  to  form  the  principal  obstacle  to  our  progress.  It  has  now  cleared  up  slightly.  I 
went  to  sleep  about  10.30. 

2  a.  m.  Was  wakened  up  and  we  started.  It  was  found  impossible  to  get  along  the  shore,  but  a  lead 
had  been  seen  out  from  shore  by  the  iceberg,  and  we  took  a  course  in  this  direction.  Stopped  at  the  berg 
and  took  a  look.  Reached  shore  again  by  making  a  long  detour  around  tlic  floating  pack.  Continued  on 
through  dense  fog,  rendering  it  necessary  to  hug  the  shore  very  closely.     4.10  a.m.,  reached  Cape  Louis 


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374 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Napoleon.  Hear  tracks  seen  in  the  snow  on  shore.  Got  to  bed  about  4.30  a.  m.;  got  up  about  9  a.  m. 
Jans  [Jens]  shot  a  big  seal  alongside  the  launch,  but  ho  sank.  9,15  a.  ni.,  left  Cape  Lnuia  Napoleon.  It 
was  very  foggy  and  the  opposite  coast  rould  not  be  seen,  but  we  took  a  course  southwest  by  the  sun,  went 
ahead  some  time  until  ice  .ippeared  ahead  pretty  thick,  when  we  turned  to  the  right  and  took  a  course  by  the 
bay.  Got  near  the  other  shore,  but  could  not  get  in  on  account  of  the  ice.  Went  down  the  bay  again,  keeping 
near  the  east  shore.  Exceedingly  foggy.  Found  nothing  at  all  could  be  seen  in  any  direction.  1.15  p.  m. 
reached  Cape  Hawkes ;  came  by  the  west  side  of  Washington  Irving  Island.  4.25  p.  m.,  started  from  Cape 
Hawkes,  having  found  the  English  depot  of  rations.  We  got  five  boxes  of  hard  bread,  keg  of  rum,  12  cans 
of  potatoes,  &c.  Weather  very  fine ;  calm  and  clear.  Steamed  from  Hawkes  for  some  time  in  the  open 
water,  but  after  a  few  miles  came  to  floating  ice,  which  gradually  became  thicker.  Boats  took  the  launch 
in  tow  for  awhile,  Frederick  having  something  to  repair  about  the  engine.  9.30  p.  m.,  stopped  in  the  floe 
in  Princess  Marie  15ay,  it  being  thought  unadvisable  to  attempt  going  farther. 

August  27. — 7  a.  m.,  got  up  after  a  good  sleep  on  my  sleeping-bag  on  the  floe.  Sky  overcast  and  foggy. 
No  land  in  sight-.  Israel  makes  our  longitude  73  deg.  west,  latitude  79  deg.  22  min.,  assumed.  Temperature 
possibly  about  22  degrees  [—5.6°  C]  last  night.  There  are  a  great  many  dangers  in  being  out  in  the  straits  in 
this  wet  [way],  but  probably  it  is  better  than  the  other  alternative.  The  English  had  great  difficulty  in  crossing 
AUman  Bay,  having  to  wade  through  young  ice  fcur  inches  thick  [102"""].  This  they  managed  to  accom- 
plish, but  of  course,  the  little  kunvh  could  never  get  through  any  such  ice.  There  must  be  some  outlet  drift 
here,  so  mat  even  if  we  are  held  here  sevi.'ral  days  we  ought  to  make  several  miles  south.  I  blame  myself 
a  dozen  times  a  day  for  leaving  my  seal-skin  coat  behind;  it  would  be  just  the  thing  here;  but  it  was  left 
under  the  understanding  that  no  surplus  clothing  was  to  be  brought  A  rule  which  has  not  l)een  held  to  by 
every  one.  I  find  tilat  one  of  my  seal-skin  boots  is  too  short  entirely.  I  have  nothing  besides  bu'  an  old 
pair  of  moccasins.  We  now  have  what  coal  remains  in  the  bunkers.  Indeed,  one  of  them  is  not  half  full. 
However,  we  got  a  good  many  barrel  staves,  i\;c.,  at  Cape  Hawkes,  and  with  any  kind  of  luck  ought  to  be 
able  to  reach  Littleton  Island  with  the  launch.  It  is  much  to  be  desired.  I  feel  no  confidence  in  finding  a 
ship  at  Littleton  Island,  but  if  we  could  get  there  with  the  launch,  the  coal  left  there  in  1881  would  probably 
enable  us  to  reach  dv;  Carey  Islands,  where  we  could  live  on  the  English  cache  until  next  spring.  Failing  to 
find  stores  or  a  ship  at  Littleton  I.sland,  or  to  reach  Carey  Islands,  our  position  would  be  deplorable  in  the 
extreme,  and  oui  —jry  existence  would  depend  on  being  able  to  find  a  living  with  the  Eskimo  above  Cape 
York  and  that  region.  Of  course,  reaching  Littleton  Island  is  now  sine  qua  iwn.  9  p.  m.  The  sky  cleared 
off  in  the  afternoon  and  the  coa.st  became  cl;\ar.  Result  of  compass  observation  by  Isiael  seems  to  show  a 
slight  motion  of  our  floe  towards  the  west  anci  north. 

Compass  bearings  from  floe,  Cape  Hawkes,  312,  311,  311.     North  Cape,  AUman  Bay,  253,  255,  256. 

August  28. — 8.15  a.  m.  got  up.  9  a.  m.,  compass  bearings,  Cape  Hawkes,  309,  310,  311,  312  (305  ^.) 
Compass  bearings.  Cape  X,  254;4:,  260,  252^,  252)4;,  2481^,  257,  257,  251^.  West  end  of  big  berg,  92,  109, 
107,  99,  loi.  Weather  clear  and  perfectly  calm.  Young  ice  thicker.  No  apparent  change  in  our  position. 
A  tripod  of  masts  has  been  erected  on  the  floe,  from  which  we  can  get  an  outlook.  A  proposition  was  made 
to  Lieutenant  Greely  to  reduce  the  rations,  but  he  thinks  it  is  not  necessary  to  do  so.  Green  tea  and 
pe.iimican  are  the  staple  articles  of  diet.  The  tea  has  very  little  sugar  and  is  very  bitter.  The  potatoes  are 
used  to  some  extent.  It  was  two  or  three  hours  last  night  before  1  got  to  sleep,  owing  to  cold  feet.  I  have 
nothing  under  my  bag  between  it  and  the  snow,  and  it  gets  very  damp.  Several  seals  made  their  appear- 
ance last  night,  but  none  were  shot      A  guil  ^burgomaster)  also  came  near. 

9  p.  m.  turned  in.  I  have  gjt  the  small  s.iil  of  die  "  Phalarope"  [licdumout],  which  put  under  my  bag 
renders  it  much  more  comforiable.  The  sky  has  cluiided  over,  a  sign  perhaps  of  the  much  hoped  fi)r  wind. 
The  most  of  the  men  have  been  walking  on  the  floe  this  evening,  singinr.  liiis  floe  is  about  1 50  yards  [137'"] 
ac.oss  in  its  widest  part.  The  young  ice  grows  thicker.  Weaie  in  a  very  precarious  position,  Thus  beset,  with 
only  30  days'  rations,  is  n  serious  matter.  There  is  no  wind  at  present.  The  temperature  last  night  fell  .ns 
low  .IS  +  '3  <legrees  [—10.6°  C.[.  The  comjjass  bearings,  as  well  as  lineaments  of  objects  on  shore,  seem 
to  establish  a  slight  eastern  [northern  ?J  as  well  as  westerly  movement.  At  the  same  time,  Lsracl's  observa- 
tions t  i-day  gave  us  79  deg.  23  min.  latitude,  which  mokes  farther  north  than  yesterday.  The  time  passes 
very  monotonously.  As  for  me,  give  me  risks  and  dangers  of  action  rather  than  this  dead  calm.  If  there  is 
help  awaiting  us  at  Littleton  Island,  we  are  probably  all  right.  If  not,  I  am  afraid,  very  much  afraid,  and  it 
will  be  almost  impossible  to  reach  the  Corey  Islands  unless  we  get  out  of  this  sound  very  soon.  Time  is 
precious. 


-;  ,';.xn:;;.iaa»<i>a<<ti»>a^j^jitelfe'airr 


tHE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


375 


Aiif^iist  29.  — 7.15  a.  in.  breakfast — pcniniicaii  and  coffee.  The  coffee  very  weak  and  witliout  milk 
or  sugar  whicli  one  can  detect.  Sky  overcast  but  no  wind.  Young  ice  looks  thicker.  The  whole  day 
passed  after  l)rcakfast  in  sitting  beside  the  engine  in  a  very  crowded  position.  The  stern  sheets  occupied  by 
Greely  and  others  in  the  sleejiing-bags.  Some  of  the  men  have  made  use  of  water  found  on  the  ice  near 
by,  to  wasli.  I  am  one  of  those  who  remain  unchanged  and  about  as  black  as  a  sweep.  9.30  j).  m., 
turned  in.  Tlu;  sun  set  behind  tl\e  clifis  to  the  west  about  9  o'clock.  Overcast,  though  clear  most  of  the 
day.  This  evening  the  sun  has  been  shining  brightly.  Spent  the  last  two  hours  in  promenading  the  floe, 
thinking  a  litde  of  everything.  Wind,  wind,  wind  is  what  we  want.  We  seem  to  have  drifted  somewhat 
to  the  south  during  tlie  nay,  liut  hardly  more  than  a  mile,  if  that.  The  pickles  obtained  at  Cape  Hawkes 
were  oi)ened  for  supper.  The  young  ice  lies  all  around.  The  spirits  of  the  men  seem  (juite  good,  consid- 
ering our  position.  The  sij.',nal  flag  flies  from  the  io\i  of  the  tripod.  Thermometer  today  not  so  low.  It 
has  been  decided  to  let  the  '."ire  on  tlie  launch  go  out  altogether.  Barrel  staves  and  one  bunker  of  coal  is 
now  about  ail  we  Ivive  in  the  way  of  fuel.  Bender  is  sleeping  out  on  the  floe  to-day  in  Lieutenant  Grcely's 
sleeping-!)ag.  Some  open  water  i)0(j1s  were  noti('ed  to-day  in  the  distance.  Cape  Hawkes  bears  north 
ZT,  (leg.  east. 

Allium/  30. — Still  in  the  same  place.  7  a.  m.,  breakfast — sour  tea  and  pemmican  stew.  The  lowest 
temperature  last  night  was  +  10  degrees  |  — 12.2°  Cj.  Morning  clear  and  calm ;  sun  shining  brightly.  Our 
floe  seems  to  have  drifted  out  from  shore  a  little  farther,  but  hardly  approachable  to  the  south.  Walked  the 
floe  until  9  o'clock  and  then  got  in  my  sleeping-bag.  Fre  lerik  [Christiansen]  crossed  a  small  pool  near  the 
launch  on  the  young  ice.  At  the  present  rate  it  will  soon  be  thick  enough  to  bear.  Meridian  observation 
by  Israel  to-day  makes  our  latitude  79  deg.  22  min.  even.  An  inventory  of  the  rations  was  taken  to-day. 
It  seems  we  have  1,140  pounds  of  meat  and  i,ioo  pounds  of  bread — about  50  days'  rations  of  bread  and 
meat,  inclmr  ig  some  souj).     There  are  also  some  potatoes,  stearine,  cranberries,  and  a  little  sugar. 

8  [).  m.,  turned  in,  after  tramping  tlie  floe  for  n(;arly  two  hours.  Sky  overcast,  with  slight  air  starting 
from  the  south.  Council  has  been  looking  towards  Cape  Sabine,  in  which  direction  he  thinks  he  saw  a 
smoke  or  something  like  one.  This  life  is  worse  than  anything.  This  daily  inaction  is  more  trying  to  me 
than  want  of  sleep  and  any  amount  of  risks.  The  longitude,  as  found  Ijy  Israel  in  the  af:ernoon,  was  73 
deg.  45  min.  Sup|)er  to-night  c:ooked  with  stearine.  Tea  boiled  in  half-hour.  The  air  is  just  cold  enough 
to  make  it  uncomfortable  unless  on  the  move.  It  is  a  constant  effort  to  keep  one's  feet  and  hands  warm 
unless  exercising.  Three  gulK  [burgomasters ?|  seen  to-day.  The  red  signal  flag  flies  from  the  top  of  the 
tripoil.  All  around  is  a  vast  expanse  of  ice  and  snow,  broken  on  the  west  by  the  rocky  cliffs  and  the  snow- 
covereti  mountains  behind.     Hearing  of  Cape  Hawkes  to-day  north  17  deg.  E. 

Aii):;iist  31. — lireakfast  at  the  usual  hour.  Morning  c'oudy,  snowing,  with  light  wind  from  the  north. 
The  boats  put  up  their  sails  as  coverings.  I  returned  the  small  sail  I  had  been  using  and  went  aboard  the 
launch  with  my  bag.  Lieutenant  (Ireely,  Isiael,  and  Hiederbick  slept  in  the  buffalo  sleeping-bag,  I  in  my 
seal-skin  bag,  and  Mender  in  Lieutenant  Greely's  bag,  stretched  on  the  bunk  by  the  engine;  I-inn  and  Fred- 
erick forward,  as  usual.  The  ice  remains  apparently  in  statu  quo.  All  land  is  invisible.  9.30  p.  m.,  tem- 
jjcrature  28.8  [—1.8°  C.[.  It  has  been  32  deg.  [0.0°  C]  (iiU'ing  the  day,  and  perhaps  higher.  This  rise  in 
the  temi)erature  has  made  a  percc[)tii)le  different'e  on  the  ice.  There  is  a  good  ileal  of  sludge  on  the  bare 
spots  on  the  floe  where  the  snow  has  not  .ippearetl,  and  which  have  formed  our  promenades.  The  young  ice 
recently  formed  also  looked  rotten.  Fredenk  [Cliristiansen]  says  it  won't  bear  now.  The  other  day  I  walked 
across  the  small  pool  near  the  launch.  It  has  been  cloudy  all  day,  and  we  had  a  light  north  wind,  but  very 
light,  and  it  made  no  percc])tible  difference  in  our  surroundings.  The  American  flag  now  floats  alongside 
the  signal  flag  from  the  top  of  the  tripod.  Lieutenant  Creely  to-day  approached  the  subject  of  our  stay  here, 
provided,  of  course,  the  young  ice  forms  thick  enough  to  bear.  He  mentions  the  loth  of  September  as  the 
limit  of  time  it  would  be  advisable  to  stay  waiting  for  the  wind  to  break  up  the  floes  so  that  we  can  proceed 
by  boat.  In  this  regard  I  agreed  with  him.  He  [jropo^es,  howeve.*,  to  take  along  but  one  boat,  in  case  we 
sledge  it  over  the  ice,  thinking  we  could  not  take  more  than  one.  We  only  have  one  pair  of  runners.  I 
said  1  thought  it  a  ver/  serious  matter  to  ])roceed  with  one  boat  only,  and  we  ought  at  least  to  attempt  to 
take  two;  to  make  tliC  attempt  at  least.  In  case  of  our  departure  with  one  boat,  our  situation  would  be 
terrible  should  we  meet  with  a  wide  jad  of  open  water,  or  even  a  comparatively  narrow  one,  with  fog  and 
snow ;  and  in  case  Littleton  Isla.  A  were  reached  and  no  help  found  there,  our  situation  would  be  again 
extremely  critical  with  but  one  boat,  knowing  of  course  but  half  of  the  party  ctnild  be  transfjorted  at  a  time 
in  this  way.     We  have  now  two  recourses  of  escape.     One  is  by  boat  as  heretofore,  which  is  contingent  on 


I 


Ni 


i    j 


I;; 

1  t 


^ 


376 


THE  LADY  FllANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


■•   [ 


i   1: 


the  ice  breaking  up.  The  other  is  over  the  ice,  which  is  contingent  on  the  young  ice  getting  thick  enough 
to  bear.  Rice  told  me  to-day  that  when  on  Washington  Irving  Island  he  thought  a  ship  could  have  got  up 
to  that  piece.  It  makes  it  more  unexplainable  why  we  have  seen  no  ship,  and  to  my  mind  makes  it 
extremely  douL'<"il  of  our  seeing  a  ship  or  meeting  any  help  at  Littleton  Island. 

This  morning  it  snowed  and  I  brought  my  bag  in  the  launch.  The  stern  has  been  hitherto  occupied 
by  Lieutenant  Greely,  Biederbick,  and  Bender,  and  now  myself.  Fred^  i  -ck  and  Linn  sleep  forward. 
Bender  made  use  of  some  expressions  to-day  on  account  of  which  Lieutenant  Greely  made  him  move  on  to 
one  of  the  boats,  or  rather  insisted  on  his  doing  as  he  threatened  to  do.  Israel  announces  a  slight  drift  since 
yesterday  towards  the  east  and  south.  I  feel  some  doubt,  however,  as  from  bearings  on  shore,  though  we 
have  got  farther  towards  the  east,  I  cannot  see  that  we  have  gone  south  any.  Reading  matter  is  scarce.  I 
brought  along  a  few  Shakespeare  pamphlets  and  the  Nineteenth  Century.  We  have  Kane,  Hayes,  and  Nares 
on  the  launch,  and  the  Arctic  Papers  (English)  of  1876.  The  stearine  does  very  well,  though  it  makes  a  disa- 
greeable smoke. 

September  i,  Saturday. — Breakfast  at  the  usual  hour,  7  a.  m.  Morning  overcast,  but  clear.  No  wind. 
Slight  movement  to  the  east  during  the  night.  During  the  night  two  walrus  were  heard  near  by.  The 
Eskimo  said  they  were  walrus.  (Mean  memorandum  of)  [minimum]  temperature  26  deg.  [  —  3.3°  C.J.  Tem- 
perature at  this  hour  a  degree  or  two  higher.  I  did  not  get  to  sleep  until  about  3  o'clock  this  morning 
owing  to  the  cramped  condition  of  my  body,  heat  of  the  sleeping-bag,  &c.  Meridian  observation  made  our 
latitude  79  deg.  19  min.,  probably  correct  within  half  a  mile.  A  small  seal  was  brought  in  by  Frederik  [Chris- 
tiansen] and  Jans  [Jens].  They  got  him  on  the  ice  a  mile  or  two  oft",  having  to  cross  a  few  recently  frozen 
lanes  en  route.  Cape  Hawkes  bears  north  14  deg.  E.  8.30  p.  m.,  fog  around  the  horizon;  island  con- 
cealed. Clear  overhead,  however.  At  2.35  p.  m.  the  ice  all  around  in  every  direction  suddenly  commenced 
to  move,  and  the  young  ice  was  speedily  crushed.  The  ice  adjoining  began  to  make  an  attack  on  the  launch 
and  boats.  The  boats  were  readily  hauled  out  of  the  water  on  the  floe.  The  pressure  on  the  launch  pushed 
her  up  until  there  was  danger  of  her  going  over  altogether.  However,  she  rose  beautifully  until  the  pressure 
was  relieved,  and  thus  remained  for  many  hours.  Everything  was  hastily  thrown  out  on  the  floe,  as  we  did 
not  know  at  what  moment  she  might  be  on  her  beam  end.  The  ice  all  around  continued  in  motion,  one 
floe  moving  one  way  and  another  another.  We  all  stood  and  stood  around  surveying  the  scene.  About  6 
o'clock  p.  m.  the  pressure  was  relieved  with  the  ebb-tide  probably,  and  the  launch  righted  herself.  Since 
the  nip  the  horizon  has  been  quite  foggy,  so  that  the  amount  of  drift  cannot  be  determined.  The  sun  shone 
during  the  afternoon  and  was  warm  and  comfortable.  Frederik  [Christiansen]  shot  a  seal  to-day,  and  we 
had  supper  of  seal,  liked  very  much  by  every  one.  Several  pools  and  lanes  of  open  water  have  appeared  at 
different  times,  and  the  ice  all  about  seems  quite  loose.  There  is  a  chance  of  our  being  able  to  get  away 
to-night  and  the  boiler  has  been  refilled  with  water.  Frederik  [Christiansen]  and  Jans  [Jens],  who  went 
out  after  the  seal  about  the  time  the  commotion  in  the  ice  occurred,  had  some  diflficulty  in  getting  back  to 
the  floe,  but  accomplished  it  by  means  of  the  kyak.  I  did  not  get  to  sleep  until  3  o'clock  this  morning. 
This  evening  Lieutenant  Greely,  Israel,  [and]  Biederbick  are  sleeping  in  the  three-man  bag  on  the  floe.  I 
have  the  stern  of  the  launch  to  myself.  Frederick  and  Linn  are  also  on  board.  Jans  [Jensj  shot  a  small 
seal  shortly  before  midnight. 

September  2. — .\t  midnight  last  night  we  had  another  nip.  The  launch  was  lifted  bodily  up  until  she 
was  completely  out  of  water,  and  raised  on  an  even  keel.  I  got  up  during  the  commotion,  but  turned  in 
again.  The  launch  is  besides  much  washed  by  the  loosening  in  the  ice  an  hour  or  so  afterwards.  The  coni 
motion  continued  at  intervals  during  the  night,  but  I  got  to  sleep  abv;ut  2  o'clock  and  1  now  of  nothing 
more.  8  a.  m,,  got  up  to  breakfast.  Seal  meat  very  good.  The  sky  completely  hidden  except  around 
the  horizon,  where  it  is  clear  ne.-^rly  to  top  of  the  cliflfs.  The  ije  is  now  practically  quiet.  -The  boats  are 
all  on  the  ice  and  most  of  the  men  in  their  sleeping-bags.  Lowest  temperature  during  the  night  16° 
[—8.9°  C.J.  Cape  Hawkes  now  bears  north  15  deg.  E.  We  have  probably  made  a  good  deal  of  southing 
during  the  last  twenty-four  hours.  Victoria  Head  looks  much  nearer.  All  the  seals  shot  have  been  small 
harbor  seals.  It  is  cohl  and  disagreeable,  and  the  only  way  of  being  at  all  comfortable  is  to  lie  in  the  sleep- 
ing-bag or  promenade  the  floe.  The  former  seems  to  be  the  most  popular,  i  o'clock  p.  in.,  waked  up 
after  nap.  Foggy,  cold,  and  cheerless.  All  around  is  ice,  A  few  pools  of  water  filled  with  sludge  here 
and  there.  Between  the  floes  the  sludge  is  pressed  very  close;  in  some  jilaces  almost  conqiact  enough  to 
bear  one's  weight.  Every  once  in  a  while  the  ice  alongside  niakes  a  movement  with  a  slow  grinding 
noise.     The  launch  is  now  again  being  raised  by  the  jiressurej  though  not  much  as  yet.     I  have  got  used 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


377 


111 


to  this  "'n  a  manner,  and  lie  and  listen  to  it  without  rising,  unless  the  commotion  is  violent.  I  wonder  what 
they  are  doing  at  home.  How  often  1  think  of  the  dear  ones  there.  The  dangers  and  uncertainties  ahead 
of  us  are  not  alleviated  by  the  thought  of  the  concern  felt  on  my  account  by  those  at  home.  Most  of  us, 
I  think,  have  given  up  the  idea  of  getting  home  this  fall.  I  dread  another  winter  in  this  country  more  than 
1  <lo  anything  else.  The  late  commotion  in  the  ice  has  separated  from  us  a  small  adjoining  tloc  on  which 
was  a  little  basin  of  fresh  water.  This  floe  is  only  a  little  ways  off,  but  at  present  we  are  cut  off  from  our 
supply  of  water.  Light  south  wind  blowing.  The  ice  groans  and  creaks  against  the  launch  as  point  after 
point  of  her  bilge  gives  way  before  the  pressure.  9  p.  m.,  turned  in.  The  nip  first  referred  to  raised  the 
launch  until  her  keel  was  almost  on  a  level  with  the  floe.  She  remained  some  time  thus  and  then  gradually 
settled  as  the  pressure  was  relieved.  We  had  seal  again  for  supper — the  one  killed  by  Jans  [JensJ.  It  is 
cooked  with  bacon,  &c.,  and  is  very  good.  The  ice  remains  pretty  much  in  stitlii  i/iio.  It  opened  up  some- 
what about  supper  time  and  several  pools  of  open  water  appeared,  but  they  resulted  in  nothing.  Our  floe 
was  evidently  formed  in  the  stnaits  and  is  not  ])aleocrystic.  A  search  was  made  after  supper  for  a  larger  ; 
but  though  a  larger  one  is  near  it  does  not  possess  any  more  advantages.  Meals  are  now  cooked  altogether 
with  stearine.  1 1  p.  m.,  moved  the  launch  and  boats  to  a  large  floe  about  a  (juarter  of  a  mile  to  the  south- 
west, adjoining  our  old  floe. 

Siptemher  23  [3d]. — 8  a.  m.,  breakfast,  seal  meat.  Morning  overcast.  Sun  visible  at  times  through  the 
clouds.  A  bearing  of  Victoria  Head  makes  that  cape  south  86  W.  The  ice  around  has  been  (juite  quiet. 
The  boats  are  pulled  well  up  on  the  floe,  entirely  out  of  the  water.  The  launch  is  moored  to  the  ice  near 
by.  I  suffer  a  great  deal  in  my  hands;  very  extremely  sensitive,  more  so  I  suppose  than  any  one  else  in 
the  party.  It  is  calm  with  slight  air  as  starting  from  the  south.  A  meridian  observation  by  Israel  makes  our 
latitude  79  deg.  15.6  min.  The  sun  to-day,  as  on  many  odier  occasions,  was  just  visible  at  noon.  Whis- 
ler  re-enlisted  to-day.  Our  old  floe  has  got  ahead  of  us,  and  is  now  some  hundred  yards  to  the  south.  This 
afternoon,  while  lying  on  my  bag,  I  heard  the  words  "Give  up,"  and  presently  heard  Lieutenant  Greely 
call  out  to  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  call  him  to  account  for  criticising  his  actions  with  the  men  ;  he  said 
that  such  conduct  was  but  one  step  from  mutiny,  as  it  fomented  discontent,  &c.  Kislingbury  denied  having 
said  anything  that  could  be  so  considered,  or  wishing  to  cause  any  dissatisfaction  among  the  men,  &c. 
Sometime  afterwards  Lieutenant  Greely  called  the  doctor,  1-lice,  Brainard,  and  Kislingbury  in  the  launch,  and, 
commencing  with  Kislingbury,  asked  each  their  opinion  as  to  what  ought  or  ought  not  to  be  done,  stating 
that  our  situation  was  certainly  very  grave,  that  we  were  working  for  our  lives,  and  he  would  be  glad  to  have 
the  opinion  of  each  of  them.  Kislingbury  recommended  abandoning  the  launch  and  making  the  shore 
with  one  or  two  boats,  and  "gang  [going]  around"  15uciianan  .Strait,  which  beseemed  to  think  was  a  bay, 
and  thus  coasting  along  shore  until  we  reached  Cape  Sabine.  The  doctor's  plan  was  to  abandon  evcry- 
tliiii};  but  one  boat,  make  the  shore,  and  thus  get  along.  I  recommended  starting  in  a  day  or  two.  Rice,  lirain- 
ard,  and  I  were  of  opinion  that  it  was  best  to  leave  matters  /'//  statu  i/uo,  drifting  along  as  at  ])resent,  and 
making  no  immediate  move,  leaving  circumstances  to  shape  our  course  afterwards  to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 
This  last  is,  I  think,  about  what  Lieutenant  Greely  intends.  So  many  obstacles  and  tlifficulties  ])resent  them- 
selves in  the  face  of  any  course  of  action,  that  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  make  up  one's  mind,  but  they 
decided  for  the  present  that  we  cannot  do  better  than  to  remain  just  i  s  at  present.  There  may  be  help  for 
us  at  Cape  Sabine,  and  I  think  our  best  course  is  to  make  Littleton  Island  via  that  place.  liy  doing  this 
we  have  rations  (250)  at  Cape  Sabine,  and  an  opportunity  of  remaining  iliC.e  till  the  ice  gives  us  a  chance 
to  get  across.  Lieutenant  Greely  seems  to  have  an  idea  that  after  a  while  the  young  ice  will  form  and  cement 
the  floes  together,  so  that  we  can  get  along  by  sledge  and  one  boat,  in  which  case  he  thinks  of  going  directly 
for  Littleton  Island.  I  doubt,  however,  if  we  are  ever  able  ti  do  this.  During  the  months  of  September 
and  October  1  think  the  ice  will  be  always  broken  up  and  in  motion.  Lieutenant  Greely  tells  me  we  have 
rations  at  the  present  rate  of  allowance  to  last  to  November  i  —that  is,  bread,  meat,  jjotatoes,  and  fuel.  J 
go  on  watch  from  10  to  11  p.  m.,  in  order  to  make  a  kind  of  "dog  watch."  Breakfast  hereafter  is  to  be 
at  7  a.  m.  Our  present  tloe  is  about  half  a  mile  in  diameter  and  near  circular  in  shape.  A  blubber  lamp 
is  kei)t  burning  for  the  smokers.  The  smokers  had  two  and  a  (luarter  pounds  of  tobacco  promised  to  be 
shared  to  them  on  the  1st. 

September  4. — Breakfast  at  <S,  We  have  drifted  several  miles  since  yesterday,  though  Israel  did  not  suc- 
ceed in  getting  observation  at  noon,  it  being  very  cloudy.  Victoria  Head  at  that  time  bore  one  and  a  hall 
degress  north  of  west.  A  large  berg  that  has  l)een  near  us  for  several  days  seemed  nearer  this  morning,  and  Con- 
nell,  with  Frederik  C.  [Christiansen]  was  sent  over  to  it ;  shortly  afterwards  I  went  over  and  joined  them  at  the 


i'i 


5 


378 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIif  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


'■:  \ 


berg.  The  distance  is  about  a  mile  as  you  have  to  travel.  Two  large  floes  intervene  between  us  and  it.  I  saw 
several  leads  and  pools  of  open  water  from  the  top  of  the  berg,  which  is  probably  loo  feet  [30'"]  high,  to 
the  northeast  and  the  northwest,  I'vrc.  Tletwecn  the  berg  and  shore  was  a  good  deal  of  open  water  also,  or 
what  might  be  called  very  loose  ice.  I  saw  nothing,  however,  which  offered  an  opportunity  for  us  to  \iro- 
ceed.  This  berg  had  a  kind  of  valley  about  its  center,  in  which  were  a  number  of  stones.  Connell  said 
there  was  fresh  water  in  her.  Young  ice  immediately  around  the  berg,  but  thick  enough  to  walk  on.  One 
of  the  floes  we  crossed  was  moving,  its  edge  grinding  against  the  next.  This  afternoon  Jans  |Jens]  shot  a 
small  seal.  This  makes  the  fourth.  He  got  the  usual  reward,  a  drink  of  rum.  ."novving  this  afternoon. 
The  sii|)plies  were  taken  out  of  the  launch  to-day  and  work  on  the  sledge  begun.  It  is  to  be  a  small  sledge, 
not  one  able  to  carry  a  boat.  Some  of  the  sails  were  also  cut  up  in  order  to  make  a  tent.  It  is  round  in 
form  like  a  Sibley  tent.  The  su])ports  are  formed  of  a  number  of  oars,  like  the  lodge  poles  of  an  Indian 
lodge.  9.30  p.  ni.,  a  lead  0[)ening  up  towards  the  south,  the  boats  were  launched,  and  we  started  in  that  direc- 
tion, pushing  the  launcli  along  as  best  we  could.  Steam  in  the  mean  time  was  got  up.  Proceeded  about  one 
hour,  wlien  about  the  time  we  were  ready  to  use  the  steam  we  came  to  the  end  of  the  lead  and  moored  to  a 
small  paleocrystic  floe  of  berg.  Leads  made  their  appearance  further  on,  but  at  present  there  is  no  chance 
of  reaching  them.  The  lead  referred  to  seems  to  describe  a  semicircle,  about  the  mi<ldle  of  which  is  in  a 
line  tow.irds  the  south  from  here.  Comp.ass  bearings  of  Victoria  and  Altert  Heads  from  here  give  for  the 
former  8}4  degrees  north  of  west,  and  the  latter  S.  34  degrees  \^ .  "'his  afternoor  from  our  former  floe 
Victoria  Head  bore  ^j.^  ilegrees  north  of  west,  and  Albert  Head  S.  34  W.  In  the  afternoon  the  tbrmcr  was 
3  degrees  north  of  west,  and  the  latter  S.  34°  west.  The  same  as  seemed  here.  Warm  enough,  so  got  up. 
We  are  probably  one  and  a  half  miles  from  our  former  position.  The  ice  at  the  present  hour,  midnight,  is 
sfiueezing  in  on  us  slowly.     The  boats  are  hauled  up  on  the  floe.     The  floe  has  a  low  mound  in  the  center. 

Siptiinber  5. — Remained  up  until  about  2  o'clock  a.  m.  trying  to  soften  my  moccasins;  or,  rather, 
they  aie  seal-skin  soles.  My  seal-skin  boots  are  about  played  out.  Besides  the  sole  of  one  being  too  short, 
tlie  material  is  rotten.  My  one  consolation  is  that  I  can  manage  to  make  out  .about  as  long  as  we  have  rations 
with  us,  provided  there  is  no  sledging  over  the  ice  and  there  is  no  snow,  for  in  that  case  I  do  not  know 
what  I  should  do.  Got  up  to  breakfast — coffee  and  pemmican,  hard  bread  and  butter.  Sky  clear  and 
weather  very  fine,  the  sun  sliining  brightly — a  great  boon  in  this  God-forsaken  country.  Meridian  observa- 
tions by  Israel  makes  our  latitude  79  deg.  8.6  min.  We  are  not  very  far  off  Albert  Head ;  it  looks  quite 
near.  After  breakfast  I  slept  until  about  noon.  The  fire  under  the  boiler  has  been  allowed  to  go  out.  The 
American  Hag  is  displayed  at  the  top  of  the  long  pole  from  the  top  of  our  ice  mound.  The  ice  crowded 
against  the  launch  somewhat  last  night,  but  there  was  no  particular  pressure  that  I  know  of.  Temperature 
this  evening  13  degrees  [—10.6°  C.J.  Cle.ar  and  cold.  The  cooking  is  still  done  on  the  snow.  We  seem 
to  be  drifting  along  quite  rai)idly.  It  is  hard  to  keep  warm.  Little  to  do  but  remain  in  the  sleeping-bag. 
It  is  terribly  monotonous.  I  have  .abandoned  my  seal-skins,  but  not  yet  succeeded  in  getting  my  moccasins 
in  working  order.  They  are  much  ripped  and  torn.  Jans  [Jens]  went  out  in  his  kyak  to  get  a  seal,  but 
did  not  g>H  him. 

September  6. — Breakfast  of  seal  meat,  as  at  supper  last  night.  Compass  bearings  by  Israel  about  9 
o'clock :  Victoria  Head,  29  degrees  north  of  west ;  Albert  Head  2,Z  degrees  south  of  west.  We  seem  to  drift 
a  little  north  with  the  ebb-tide  generally,  though  sometimes  remain  stationary.  Morning  overcast ;  air  clear. 
Temperature  23  degrees  [  —  5.0°  C.J.  Snowed  last  night.  A  lead  upwards  of  a  mile  long  made  its  appear- 
ance, which  would  have  enabled  us  to  proceed  towards  the  south,  but  not  enough  to  make  it  worth  while 
tfi  cast  ofT  from  our  floe,  so  it  was  considered.  Biederbick  has  gone  to  the  boats  to  sleep  for  the  last  two 
nights,  so  now  Lieuttenant  Greely  and  Israel  and  myself  are  the  only  ones  who  sleep  in  the  stern.  My  moc- 
casins are  very  ragged,  and  will  recpiire  much  sewing  to  make  them  serviceable.  The  soles  are  intact.  It  is 
their  uppers.  Meridian  observation  makes  our  latitude  79  degrees  6.9  min.  A  slight  wind  has  recently 
started  in  from  the  north.  Dead  calms,  and  southerly  breezes  have  been  the  prevailing  winds.  3.30  p.  m. 
snowing.  The  tent  has  been  erected  over  two  boats.  The  other  h.as  sails.  Long  shot  a  small  seal  (harbor 
seal).  Jans  [Jens]  brought  it  in  by  means  of  his  ky.ak.  7.30  p.  m.,  supper.  Cold  north  wind  blowing  quite 
fresh.  Our  neighboring  berg  seems  to  be  moving  along  faster  than  we,  and  at  one  time  it  looked  very  much 
.as  if  it  were  going  to  come  in  against  our  floe. 

September  7. — i  p.  m.,  latitude  by  meridian  observation  79  dog.  0.6  min.  A  gale  from  the  north  and 
northeast  has  been  blowing  since  yesterday,  accompanied  at  times  by  snow.  The  wind  has  been  moderating 
somewhat,  but  still  we  arc  going  along  southward,  as  is  shown  by  sights  on  shore.    The  wind  has  crowded 


TUB  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


379 


the  ice  together  very  niucli,  and  no  opun  water  is  to  be  seen  in  any  ih'rection.  Our  neiglilioring  berg  is 
now  very  close,  hardly  more  than  50  yards  [46'"]  distant,  and  apparently  will  get  closer,  and  perlui|)s  come 
in  contact  with  our  floe.  Our  floe  is  about  200  yards  [183"']  across.  Almost  circular  in  form.  It  is 
undoubtedly  very  thick  and  would  stand  a  good  deal  of  pressure.  Quite  a  number  of  seals  intimate  their 
appearance  at  different  times,  but  only  one  has  been  shot  so  far.  We  have  jiassed  C'ajie  Albert,  and  are 
now  about  opposite  Cape  Camperdown.  We  have  moved  in  quite  close  to  the  land.  Probably  it  is  not 
more  than  three  miles  distant.  The  coast  from  Cape  Sabine  to  Alexandra  Harbor  is  (piite  distinct.  Last 
night  the  Greenland  coast  in  the  neighborhood  of  Cape  Inglefield  was  quite  plain.  Last  night  we  were  in 
danger  of  a  nip  at  various  times,  but  escaped,  fortunately;  i)robably  the  tongues  of  ice  under  water  projecting 
from  the  floes  saved  us.  Temperature  this  afternoon  22  degrees  [  —  5-6°  C.],.ind  now  23  degrees  [  —  5.0°  C.J. 
Barometer  29.38  [746.24"""].  It  is  now  going  up.  Cape  Sabine  bearings  at  noon  353^  degrees  I'',.  Ik'ar- 
ings  as  tested  by  Israel  this  afternoon  105  deg.  09  min.  Bearings  b.therto  assumed  no  [degrees],  according 
to  Knglish  map.  The  wind  went  down  during  the  afternoon  to  almost  a  calm.  The  sun  came  out  and  it 
was  clear  and  fine. 

9  p.  m.,  thermometer  5  <legrees  [—15.0°  C].  Clear  and  calm.  ]?ender  made  my  spoon.  The  men 
have  got  a  walk  four  feet  [i.2'"|  wide  around  the  little  hill  and  running  near  tlie  floe.  10.15  1'-  "i-  retired 
to  rest  after  a  run  aijout  the  floe  for  exercise.  It  is  now  perfectly  calm.  There  is  some  danger  of  our  being 
froxen  up.     The  situation  looks  more  serious. 

AV//(7///'(7' 8. — Thermometer  rose  during  the  afternoon  to  12  degrees  [  —  11.1°  C.[.  Calm  and  per- 
fectly clear,  and  no  wind.  The  sludge  became  frozen  together  during  the  night,  and  this  morning  l''red- 
erik  [Christiansen]  went  over  to  the  berg.  I  went  shorUy  afterwards,  and  was  shordy  joined  by  Lieutenant 
Cireely  and  Rice.  The  berg  is  about  100  y.ards  [.about  90"']  off.  A  compar.atively  broad  lane  of  open 
water  or  young  ice  extends  from  Cape  Camperdown  two-thirds  the  w.ay  toward  the  Alexandra  Harbor,  and 
except  thus  no  open  water  could  be  seen.  The  ice  is  very  rough  and  extends  in  every  direction.  There  are 
floes,  and  some  of  them  are  large  and  many  very  sni.ill  and  separated  by  a  good  deal  of  sludge.  All  this 
is  now  fro/.en  together,  and  the  sledges  are  being  got  ready  for  our  dei)arture  on  the  ice.  We  have  the 
English  twelve-man  sledge,  and  a  small  one  made  from  the  seats  of  the  launch.  The  runners  are  formed 
from  the  bands  which  encased  the  packing  around  the  boiler.  It  is  now  intended  to  start  day  after  to- 
morrow, or  perhai)s  to-morrow  night.  The  berg  I  visited  is  about  a  ([uarter  of  a  mile  or  more  across, 
broken  up  by  several  little  valleys.  In  these  v.alleys  are  several  bowlders  and  stones.  This  berg  is  probably 
75  or  100  feet  [about  20  or  30'"!  high.  There  are  sever.al  other  bergs  around,  one  of  tliem  very  large, 
almost  like  an  island  in  its  dimensions.  It  is  proposed  to  take  two  boats  anil  abandon  one  and  the  launch. 
The  thermometer  went  below  zero  [  —  17  8°  C]  last  night.  Bearings  on  shore  indicate  that  we  have  moved 
none  at  all,  or  very  little  since  yesierday.  With  die  ice  in  its  present  condition  this  is  not  at  .all  surprising. 
Latitude  by  meridian  observation  79  deg.  0.6  min,,  the  same  as  yesterday.  A  walrus  was  seen  last  night 
and  shot  at  by  Connell  and  odiers.  They  say  he  came  within  three  feet  [.9"'],  and  though  repeatedly  hit 
the  shots  seemed  to  have  no  efiect.  After  awhile  a  walrus  was  heard  blowing  and  breaking  through  the 
ice  near  by.  Perh.ips  it  was  some  [same]  one.  7.30  p.  m.,  supper.  We  had  the  last  of  the  seal.  Thermom- 
eter went  up  again  to  19  degrees  [  —  7.2°  C.j.  Connell  says  they  fired  a  great  many  shots  a  the  walrus, 
and  none  of  them  seemed  to  do  him  any  harm.  No  less  than  seven  shots  took  effect.  Ri:m  to-night  and 
night  before  last. 

September  9. — 12  m.,  lowest  temperature  last  night  8.5  [  —13.1°  C]  degrees.  Cloudy.  This  forenoon 
it  has  been  blowing  somewhat  fresh  from  the  northeast  with  snow.  Still  we  do  not  move  app.arently.  'I'he 
young  ice  grows  thicker,  and  preparations  aie  under  way  to  abandon  the  launch  to-morrow.  A  council 
was  called  this  morning,  and  the  doctor,  Kislingbury,  Rice,  Brainard,  and  myself,  with  Lieutenant  Greely,  and 
suggestions  asked  and  given  with  regard  to  the  details  of  our  sledge  trip.  Two.  or  three  miles  a  day  are 
undisputed.  There  ave  seven  three-man  sleeping-bags  and  four  single  bags.  An  extra  bag  brought  thus 
far  (sheep-skin)  is  being  cut  up  for  sleeping  socks  and  soles.  Many  of  the  men  are  witliout  sleeping-socks. 
Lieutenant  Creely  e:itimates  the  total  weightto  be  hauled,  including  the  two  boats,  at  6,500  pounds.  We  have 
one  Knglish  twelve-man  sledge,  one  Eskimo  sledge,  imi)rovised  here,  pretty  much  the  same  as  an  ordinary 
dog-sledge,  and  ".iso  one  little  hand-sledge  about  three  feet  [.9"']  long.  The  launch  is  to  be  left  chained  to 
the  floe.  Steam  is  got  up  on  the  launch  to-day  in  order  to  blow  the  boiler  dry.  All  are  well  of  the  jjarty 
so  far.     Biederbick  is  perh.aps  an  invalid,  as  he  complains  of  rheumatism.     Bender   and  Long  are  not 


'  1 1 

\\\ 


9B 


380 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


strong,  and  are  liable  at  any  time  to  break  down,  but  at  present  they  seem  all  right.  Our  course  is  to  be 
to  or  in  the  vicinity  of  Cocked  Hat  Island,  and  on  reaching  sliore  several  things  will  be  left  in  cache,  it 
being  thought  advisable  to  take  everything  thus  far  and  there  abandon  them. 


{)     ' 


i     1 


SLEDilE   TRIP. 

Se/>(einf>er  10  {ist  iH(in/i). — Snowing  off  and  on  all  day.  Lieutenant  Greely  had  determined  to  start 
to-day  but  postjioned  departure  on  account  of  the  storm.  Shortly  after  noon,  however,  it  cleared  somewhat 
so  that  the  coast  near  Cape  Sal)ine  could  be  seen.  1.45  p.  ni.,  everything  being  ready,  we  started  with 
ti  English  boat  /ieaiiinoii/,  or  "  I'halarope,"  as  the  men  call  it.  Reached  camp  about  one  and  a  rjuarter  miles 
distant  from  the  launch  at  7.15  p.  m.  It  took  one  and  a  ijuarter  hours  to  move  the  J^'<<iii>h<»i/  iind  load 
(total  with  sledge  about  1,700  pounds)  this  distance,  hauled  by  fourteen  men.  After  getting  this  boat 
up  we  went  back  for  the  whale-boat.  It  required  two  hours  to  move  the  whale-boat  up.  Total  weight 
about  2,100  poun<ls;  700  pounds  arc  allowed  for  each  boat  in  this  case.  Uoth  the  small  sledges  impro- 
vised broke  down,  but  the  larger  of  the  two  was  repaired  so  as  to  haul  one  load  to  our  cam[).  After 
getting  in  the  whale-boat  I  went  back  with  a  dozen  men  and  hauled  in  the  balance  of  the  stuff"  which  had 
been  moved  from  tlie  launch  a  short  distance  by  the  improvised  sledge  referred  to.  Snowing  all  the  after- 
noon and  very  foggy,  so  as  to  conceal  island  and  the  nearest  shore  (Cape  Camperdown,  &:c.).  The  launch 
[Li7/fy  Gire/v]  and  tlie  red  boat  [  Vu/droiis]  were  abandoned.  A  record  was  left  on  the  launch.  In  the  tfpce 
improvised  twelve  men  sleep.  Lieutenant  Greely,  myself,  Israel,  Dr.  I'avy,  Frederick,  Henry,  &c.  The  rest  of 
the  men  sleep  in  the  two  boats,  our  sails  forming  protection.  The  "  turtle-back  "  of  the  launch  has  been  cut  ui 
])ieces  to  go  under  the  sleeping-bags  in  the  /(•/ec.  The  traveling  to-day  has  been  through  heavy  snow,  with  a 
few  small  lakes  of  level  ice,  but  so  few  as  hardly  to  deserve  notice.    Cooking  was  done  in  the  UJ>cr  for  all  hands. 

September  11  {id  march). — 7.15  a.  m.,  breakfast.  Morning  overcast  and  calm  with  very  slight  breeze. 
I  did  not  go  to  sleep  until  after  midnight.  Lieutenant  Oreely  thought  at  first  he  would  not  start  on  account 
of  the  weather,  but  afterwards  it  cleared  somewhat.  8.35  a.  m.,  started  off  Made  about  one  and  a 
([uarter  miles.  Probably  two  miles  of  latitude  have  been  made  during  the  last  two  days.  Started  off" 
witii  the  Beaumont,  which  we  hauled  to  the  second  camp  in  one  and  a  half  hours.  Then  returned  and 
brought  on  whale-boat  in  one  hour,  and  a  third  load  we  had  everything  in  one  and  a  quarter  hours.  It  took 
an  hour  to  get  back  to  the  old  camji.  Reached  camj)  with  the  last  load  at  3  p.  ni.  I  went  over  the  route 
as  yesterday  five  times.  Lncountered  several  bands  of  rubble-ice,  but  got  through  without  much  trouble. 
Our  general  course  since  leaving  the  launch  has  been  for  Cocked  Hat  Island,  l-'or  several  hours  during 
the  march  the  island  was  invisible,  and  it  snowed  very  heavily.  Afterwards,  shortly  after  we  had  returned 
to  camp,  it  cleared  somewhat.  The  route  ahead  seems  very  good.  A  very  wide  |)aleocrystic  Hoe  with  many 
small  lakes  of  young  ice  in  the  surface.  We  have  found  water  at  every  camp  and  jjlenty  also  on  the  road. 
Noticed  a  great  difilerence  between  the  little  lakes  of  fresh  water  and  the  surface  of  exposed  ice  with  .salt 
water  underneath.  On  the  latter  the  sledges  moved  very  hard.  Over  the  former  they  go  with  more  ease. 
After  getting  in  we  had  a  lunch  of  tea  and  stew  saved  from  breakfast.  A  half  gill  of  rum  was  also  served 
out.  The  traveling  to-day  has  been  through  heavy  snow  nearly  knee  deep,  varied  in  ii^w  places  by  little 
lakes  of  smooth  ice  nearly  free  of  snow.  During  the  afternoon  Sergeant  Brainard  and  the  doctor  went  over 
towards  Cocked  Hat  Island  and  gained  a  large  berg  in  that  direction.  The  floe  we  are  now  on  ends  about 
two  miles  from  here.  The  traveling  over  it  Brainard  reports  as  through  dceji  snow,  though  lor  some  dis- 
tance from  camp  here  there  are  several  little  lakes  which  offer  a  good  route.  lieyond  this  floe  Brainard  and 
the  doiior  report  great  masses  of  rubble-ice  which  extends  all  the  way  to  the  shore  apparently.  Brainard 
and  the  doctor  feel  sure  that  they  heard  dogs  bark  ofT  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Cain|)erdown  or  to  the  south 
of  it.  They  heard  them  three  times  in  succession.  After  coming  back  a  flag  was  displayed  from  a  neighbor- 
ing hummock,  and  a  rifle  discharged  six  times.  The  oudook  at  present  is  rather  gloomy.  However,  if  there 
is  help  at  Sabine  we  are  all  right.  Indeed,  if  there  is  help  at  Littleton  Island  we  ought  not  to  despair  of 
reaching  it,  working  as  w'j  are  for  our  lives.  Another  council  of  war  to  night,  the  result  of  the  report  of  the 
doctor  and  Brainard.  Most  recommended  moving  on  to  the  berg  ahead,  I  among  the  number.  However, 
the  decision  arrived  at  is  to  stay  here.  Rice  with  Jans  [Jens]  goes  out  in  the  mor.iing  to  reconnoiter.  Fred- 
erick with  Cress  went  back  to  the  steam-launch  and  got  a  box  of  matches  left. 

Septemlier  12  {la^  over). — Breakfast  at  8  a.  m.  Air  tolerably  clear,  though  the  sky  is  overcast.  Rice 
with  tho  kyak,  doctor,  and  Jans  fj ens],  left  at  8^4  o'clock.  Thermometer,  17  degrees  [  — 8.3°  C]  (mean 
memorandum)  [minimum];  last  night,  17  degrees  [—8.3°  C.].     It  seems  now  tiiat  we  have  ratiouK  enough 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  liAY  EXPEDITION. 


381 


at  the  full  rate  to  last  forty  days  more,  so  Lieutenant  Clreely  said  last  night.  Men'.Iian  observation,  78  degrees 
58.9  min.  Sight  not  very  satisfactory,  but  probably  not  more  than  two-tentlis  [of  a  mile]  out.  Sun  came  out 
very  bright  and  warm  at  about  10.30,  but  afterwards  became  obscure  again.  Rice,  doctor,  and  Jans  [Jens] 
are  out;  also,  Kislingbury  and  Connell.     Hung  sleejiing-bag,  ike,  out  to  dry. 

I  p.  m.,  Kislingbury  returned.  Shortly  after  him  Sergeant  Rice,  iVc.  Kislingbury  rejiorted  sees  mass  of 
rubble-ice  under  the  young  ice,  and  saw  little  chance  of  ])roceeding  beyond  through  present  tloe.  His 
report  was  very  unfavorable.  Shortly  after  this  Rice  came  along.  He  an<l  Rice  [Pavy]  said  that  to  the  east 
of  the  berg,  or  rather  to  the  east  of  Cocked  Hat  Island,  the  rubble-ice  on  the  floe  joined  close  on  to  the 
floe  we  are  now  on,  and  here  the  young  ice  lake  narrowed  to  a  mere  crack.  Crossing  here  anil  going  through 
upwards  of  a  mile  of  rubble-ice,  they  came  to  a  small  floe,  or  it  seemed  a  series  of  floes,  which  extended 
towards  Sabine,  or  to  thi  west  of  it,  into  land  ap|)arently.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  the  doctor,  Rice,  and 
myself  recommended  tint  the  whale-boat  be  abandoned,  which  was  accortlingly  done.  We  expect  to  fmd 
boats  at  Cape  Sabine.  Lieutenant  (ireely  gave  the  order  to  start ;  2.10  p.  m.,  we  started  with  the  Htaitmont, 
and  in  one  hour  and  twenty  minutes  reached  the  end  of  the  floe,  where,  meeting  rubble-ice  and  a  tidal 
crack,  it  was  decided  to  go  no  farther.  The  small  sledge  improvised  the  other  day  brought  up  about  500 
pounds.  Returned,  and  the  load  came  in  fifty  minutes,  and  took  the  rest  of  the  load  to  the  advance  camp 
again  in  one  hour  and  fifteen  minutes,  or  at  6.15  p.  m.  J  [ere  we  camped.  Last  share  of  sugar  made  [issued  | 
this  morning  at  breakfast.  Hear  tracks  seen  to-day  on  the  floe;  also  fox  tracks.  Traveling  to-day  very 
good  comparatively,  as  of  there  being  a  series  of  small  pools  or  lakes  of  ice  on  the  surface  of  the  floe. 
These  were  covered  with  about  two  inches  [about  50"""]  of  snow.  Course  winding,  but  (juite  easy,  over 
these  places.     Retired  to  bed  about  9  o'clock.     Rum  to-night ;  also  last  night  and  the  night  before. 

September  13. — 7.30  a.  m.,  started.  Hreak  through  the  young  ice,  frozen  after  starting;  no  damage 
done.  Much  rubb'e-ice.  Latitude  of  camp  by  meridian  observation,  79  [78]  deg.  56.9  min.  Hearing  with 
Cape  Sabine,  S.  12  degrees;  Cocked  Hat  Island,  S.  35  degrees  W.  Much  rubble-ice  encountered  with  small 
floes.  Sledge  broke  through  young  ice  twice.  Bender  went  through  and  got  wet.  *  .  1  over  the  route  five 
times,  first  advance  occujjied  one  hour  and  fifty-five  minutes;  second  return  sixty-five  minutes;  second 
advance  one  hour  and  twenty  minutes ;  third  advance  one  and  a  half  hours.  Saw  a  walrus.  Broke  through 
ice  within  35  yards  [about  10'"]  of  sledge.  Narwhals  seen  last  night,  or  rather  their  holes.  Fresh  bear  tracks 
seen  to-day  by  Brainard  ahead  of  our  camp.  Sun  shone  during  the  afternoon  for  a  few  hours.  The  land 
now  begins  to  look  (piite  near.  The  distance  from  here  to  the  island  is  put  vaguely  at  from  four  miles  to 
ten  miles.     Got  in  the  camp  at  3.15  p.  m. 

September  14. — 7.45  a.  m.,  started  from  camp.  Encountered  a  great  deal  of  rubble-ice.  First  half-mile 
very  much  indeed.  Made  two  trijjs,  going  over  the  road  three  times.  The  small  sledge  broke  tlown  while 
going  on  the  second  time,  and  it  was  nece.ssary  to  send  small  .sledge  back  for  it.  I  did  not  go  back.  First 
advance  this  morning  occupied  3  hours;  it  took  one  and  a  half  hours  to  get  back  for  the  second  load  and 
then  two  and  a  quarter  hours  to  bring  the  load  on.  \Valrus  seen  to-day  by  Brainard  while  in  advance. 
Large  sledge  reached  camp  at  3.35  p.  m.     Violent  SW.  gale  came  on  shortly  after  noon  ;  blowing  big  guns. 

Lieutenant  Greely  and  the  doctor  had  rather  a  hot  argument  about  supper  time.  The  substance  of  it 
was  that  the  doctor  said  if  his  advice  had  been  followed  he  would  be  at  Fort  Conger  now.  This  Lieutenant 
Greely  denied.  He  also  said  that  he  had  heard  Lieutenant  Greely  give  Sergeant  Brainard  orders  this  morn- 
ing to  take  a  direct  course  for  Cape  Sabine.  Sergeant  Brainard,  on  bemg  call'jd  on,  said  that  Lieutenant 
Greely  ordered  him  to  go  ahead  to  the  nearest  shore,  and,  other  things  being  ev;ual,  to  take  a  route  midway 
between  Cocked  Hat  Island  and  Cape  Sabine.  The  discussion  got  quite  warm,  and  criminations  and  recrim- 
inations ensued.  The  doctor  suddenly  left  the  tent.  The  small  sledge  broke  down  and  diti  not  get  in  till 
5  p.  m.  Walrus  seen  to-day.  Since  the  gale  we  seem  to  have  drifted  to  the  north  or  northeast,  accord- 
ing to  report.  Distance  traveled  to-day  about  two  and  a  quarter  miles.  Grin<ling  noise  of  the  moving  pack 
heard  all  day  to  the  east.  Brainard  ano  Jans  [Jens],  who  went  ahead  selecting,  and  saw  evidences  of  ice 
to  the  south  towards  the  shore.  The  wind  died  down  altogether  about  8  p.  ni.  Our  course  to-day  has 
been  a  little  to  the  east-  of  Cocked  Hat  Island.  Tiie  issue  of  pemmican  and  corned  beef  commenced 
to-night. 

Latitude  by  meridian  observation,  78  deg.  54.8  min.  Water  at  this  camp.  We  are  fortunate  in  being 
able  to  find  water  at  all  our  camps  so  far.  It  has  been  readily  got  by  cutting  through  the  surface  of  the 
little  lakes  that  lie  about  on  the  surface  of  these  floes. 


382 


THE  LADY  FKANKI.IN  BAY  EXPEDITIOy. 


St-ptemlh-r  1 5. — 7.30  a.  111.  Cooking  is  being  done  in  here  this  morning ;  four  lamps.  It  is  still  blowing  a 
gale  from  the  soutliwest.  \Ve  are  now  opposite  the  cape  near  Albert  Head,  where  we  left  the  launch,  &c.,on 
the  lotli  instant.  We  are  evidently  a  good  deal  farther  oft"  from  tliis  land.  It  blew,  with  slight  intcmissions, 
all  'light.  I  see  nothing  to  do  but  wait  for  the  storm  to  go  down.  We  have  failed  in  making  the  <  iid,  and 
the  end  and  consetpience  of  that  may  be  terrible,  as  we  have  only  one  boat.  At  the  same  time,  >  nay  not 
amount  to  iiiiiih.  Clouds  are  now  hurrying  to  the  northwest,  'i'he  sun  shines  through  them  fail,,  ' .  The 
only  land  visible  is  the  head  of  liuchanan  Strait,  Cape  Albert  and  \'i»t()ri-,,  anil  th''  coast  to  lie  n  rth,  but 
the  la.st  faintly.  Water  clouds  to  the  north  and  west  only.  Latitude  at  noon,  79  deg.  1.8  min.  .  le  south 
wind  kept  up  during  the  day,  blowing  fitfully  [frightfully].  'J'hermometer  ranged  between  : ;  degree.^ 
[—3.9°  C.|  ami  30  de:.riees  [— i-i"  C  J.  We  ilrifted  a  long  ways  to  the  NE.  or  aNK.  TIk  '.ireenland 
shore  came  in  sight.  We  are  now  this  evening,  according  to  compass  bea'i'i-s  Sabiio,  S.  12  deg.  W.; 
Cocked  Hat  Mand,  S.  46  VV.  Dr.  Pavy  moved  his  sleei)iiig  lag  from  die  A/«  to  the  sledge  to-night.  This 
leaves  in  the  Li   re.  jnt     ireely,  ni)-  elf,  lirain.i.il,  Frederick,  Henry,  Schneider,  Whisler,  and  the  two 

Ebi  Mii^^,  ele\ t.i  v..  .\\\. 

Siptiini  r  j'i,  .-Mcii,;  :;n  observation  79  deg.  0.7  min.  A  beautiful  day,  calm  with  sun,  the  thermometer 
high.  Comj/ass  J.'v':'.tiaj,b  m  'kt  our  position  due  north  of  Littleton  Island.  IJrevoort  Island  clearly  visible. 
.\dvantage  is  taken  of  the  wea'ii.  Tdry  out  the  sleeping-bags  and  clothes.  Council  called  this  morning  again. 
The  doctor  advised  starting  with  us  little  delay  as  r,ossible  to  the  SW.  The  rest  pretty  generally  favor 
doing  nothing  for  the  present  until  the  direction  of  the  drift,  i\:c.,  are  determined.  Rice,  widi  Jans  [Jensj, 
was  sent  out  to  recomioiter.  I  went  also  liy  myself  to  the  south.  Found  two  large  floes  extending  in  a  gen- 
erally eastern  direction,  which  would  afford  (juite  good  sledge  traveling,  comjiaratively  safe.  The  ration  is 
now  somewhat  cut  down,  and  we  eat  corned  beef  entirely.  We  are  now  30  miles  from  Cairn  I'oint  and  19 
miles  from  Sabine.  Lieutenant  Greely  informed  me  that  his  present  intention  is  to  take  a  course  for  the 
(Ireenland  coast  at  about  Cairn  Point.  He  anil  I  talked  over  it  for  some  time.  The  siaiation  is  very  crit- 
ical and  \vhether  I  ever  live  to  write  out  these  notes  remains  to  be  seen.  Hotli  coasis  are  |)'  nly  visible. 
The  inventory  taken  to-day  of  rations.  A\'e  have  4c'  days  of  meat,  bread,  and  [lotatoes,  and  near  that 
amount  of  tea.  That  is,  on  the  basis  of  one  pound  meat.  1 1  ounces  bread,  and  two  ounces  of  potatoes.  Jans 
[JensJ  and  Frederik  [ChristiansenJ  each  shot  a  seal  about  9  p.  111.  in  a  water  pool  about  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  distant.  Kach  seal  weighs  about  150  pounds.  Frederik  [Christiansen]  goes  into  his  bed  whistling  on 
an  emuty  cartridge  shell,  and  the  kyak  was  taken  out. 

Scptcmhir  17. — Bright,  calm,  and  clear.  Slight  fog  around  the  hori/on,  but  the  Ellesmere  shore  very 
distinct.  Thought  to  be  about  10  miles  distant.  Our  drift  has  been  southwest  since  yesterday.  Greenland 
shore  very  distant,  and  scarcely  visible.  Our  late  sledge  tracks  now  point  towards  Cape  Sabine,  and  the 
floe  seems  still  to  have  a  fast,  rotary  motion.  This,  or  we  are  drifting  very  fast.  Preparations  are  being 
made  for  starting  after  noon  for  the  Ellesmere  shore.  Many  things  more  have  to  be  abandoned.-  Weights, 
as  figured  by  Ilriinard,  exclusive  of  things  to  be  abandoned,  2,737  pounds.  Counting  our  40  days'  ration, 
at  two  pounds  each,  makes  6,700  pounds.  Frederik  [Ciiristiansen]  shot  another  seal — smaller  one.  Latitude 
at  noon,  78  deg.  56  .uin.  (Mean  memorandum)  [minimum]  thermometer  last  night,  2.5°  [—16.4°  C.].  Rapid 
rotary  motion  of  the  fice.  Our  old  tracks  now  (i  p.  m.)  point  towards  Lrevoort  Island.  Our  drift  since 
morning  has  been  towards  Cocked  Hat  Island.  We  have  drifted  about  two  miles  since  morning.  1.05  p. 
111.,  started  with  the  sledge  toward  Cocked  H.i't  Island.  2.05  ji.  ni.,  stojiped  and  went  back  for  rest  of  load. 
55  minutes  occupied  in  returr.'iig,  and  one  aid  a  quarter  hours  in  second  advance.  Bear  tracks  seen  in  two 
places.  The  old  trail  near  last  rami)  n^oved  15  degrees  in  three  hours,  so  Israel  reports.  After  a  second 
advance  we  moved  forward  with  the  boat  to  a  small  pool  of  open  water,  and  got  the  boat  to  the  edge  of 
it.  Left  the  boat  and  went  back  quarter  of  a  mile  for  supiier.  After  supper  advanced  rest  of  the  loads  across 
the  doe  to  the  edge  of  the  new  floe.  Cot  across  with  every diiiig  about  10  p.  m.  Fine  moonlight  night. 
Full  moon.  Other  bear  tracks  seen  to-day.  Calm  and  dear.  Biederbick,  Henry,  and  some  others  com- 
plaining. Must  lia\e  made  upwards  of  three  miles  to-day.  Encountered  a  great  deal  of  very  bad  rubble- 
ice.  Looks  very  close,  apparently  not  more  than  three  or  four  miles  distant.  The  floe  we  are  now  on  par- 
takes of  the  rotary  motion,  but  it  is  not  very  fast. 

Sfpti-mlhr  18. — 8  a.  m.,  started.  Stopped  for  supper  on  paleocrystic  floe  at  5.30  p.  m.  Day  calm  and 
clear.  Very  tiresome — a  succession  of  floes  and  open  water.  Hauled  sledge  for  a  few  hundred  yards,  and 
then  took  the  boats.     Reached  a  paleocrystic  floe,  and  then  had  supper.     Rice  fell  in  the  water.     We  have 


THE  LADY  I'llANKIIJN  JIAY  EXl'KDITIOK 


383 


drifted  far  to  the  east,  and  now  (supper  time)  the  land  to  the  south  of  Cape  Sabine  opens  out  very  inu(  h. 
Started  again  at  7  a.m.  fp.  ni.],  after  a  supper  of  seal  meat,  and  hauled  the  loads  across  the  paleoc  rysti(  lloe 
about  three-ijuarlers  of  a  mile.  Reached  edge  of  open  water  at  /■30  |p.  m.J  and  again  at  9  [>.  ni.,  when  we 
fmini!  w!  had  drifted  farther  from  shore  in  the  mean  time.  being  too  dark  to  proceed,  we  stoppetl  fur  the 
night.  Two  or  three  walruses  seen  (juite  near  our  last  caiiip  •  st  before  starting  to-day.  liear  tracks  i>assed. 
Our  situation  is  very  critical.    Latitude  at  noon  79  [78J  deg.    o.    min.    Crossed  five  leads  of  open  water  to-ilay. 

September  19. — We  got  within  two  miles  of  shore  lasl  1  :ht,  when  unable  to  go  farther.  Waked  up  tliis 
morning  and  found  ourselves  drifted  away  to  the  northwest  [northeast].  We  have  not  gone  as  far  north  as 
we  went  before,  and  there  is  great  danger  of  our  being  drifted,  when  the  wind  subsides,  outside  of  Sabine  and 
down  the  channel.  The  floe  we  are  on  is  entirely  surrounded  by  water,  except  perha|)s  on  the  soutii  side. 
The  tipcf  w.as  not  pitched  last  night,  and  to-day  we  lay  on  the  ground  [ice].  Our  situation  is  more  critical 
than  ever,  and  our  chances  of  pulling  through  with  our  lives  depends  almost  altogether  un  cham  e.  IJre.ik- 
fast  ♦'  is  morning  consisted  of  pemmican  and  water.  There  was  no  cooking  done.  The  sun  has  been  shining 
brightly  all  day,  but  the  severe  south  wind  blowing  has  kept  every  one  in  the  sleeping-bag.  Another  council 
held  this  evening.  The  general  opinion  was  to  remain  in  statu  quo  until  the  direction  of  the  ilrift  assures 
itself 

Siptcmbi-r  20. — Got  \\\  6  o'clock.  Cramps  in  the  legs  prevented  me  from  sleejiing.  Morning  was 
very  fine.     Hoth  shores  vi.-.    ic.  ould  make  little  or  nothing  of  our  position,  except  that  we  were  a  good 

ways  from  land.  It  clou'ed  ur  7.25  a.  m.,  or  rather  became  misty  around  the  horizon,  so  we  could  see 
nothing.  About  the  sai.  '''"ii.;  .,  .t  wind  si)rang  up  to  the  north.  The  (mean  memorandum)  |minimum| 
thermometer  is  report'  '  '*  \  i'^;g  [ — 1 1.7°  C.j  last  night.  Young  ice  formed  all  round  the  tloe.  No  land 
can  now  be  seen.  Tn..-,  a-''>''  jon  Frederik  [Christiansen]  shot  a  large  seal  8^i  feet  [2.5'"]  long  and  weigh- 
ing probably  600  pounds,  it  v,.is  got  out  of  the  water  by  means  of  Jans'  [Jens'J  kyak.  It  reciuired  seven 
or  eight  men  to  haul  -  anmial  in.  No  land  has  been  visible  since  this  morning  except  lirevoort  Island, 
and  Cape  Albert  inu.  ■I'icdy  for  a  few  minutes.  Drank  half  a  cupful  of  seal  blood.  It  had  very  little 
taste.  Lieutenant  Greely  thought  it  tasted  like  raw  eggs.  Had  a  stew  of  seal  liver  blubber.  Snowing  all 
night.  Ate  some  fried  blubber  just  before  supper  and  found  it  very  good.  liearing  obtained  by  Israel  of 
what  he  thought  Brevoort  Island  in  the  afternoon  was,  12  deg.  S.  of  W.    I  assumed  our  latituile  as  [78"]  50'. 

Si-plimbcr  ix. — Wind  and  snow  all  night.  Wind  Irom  the  NW.,  as  well  as  could  be  delerniined. 
Supper  cooked  by  stearine  in  tlie  tipee.  It  raised  the  temperature  considerably,  but  the  smoke  of  the 
stearine  was  extremely  trying  to  the  eyes,  and  when  the  lamps  were  blown  out  the  fumes  were  intolerable. 
It  afiected  Bender's  lungs,  and  Lieutenant  Greely  sent  him  to  the  boat  and  had  him  replaced  by  Connell. 
This  morning  there  are  a  great  many  complaints  of  the  sleeping-bags,  which  are  very  wet  and  unjileasanl. 
The  turtle-back  of  the  steam-launch  is  far  inferior  to  rubber  blankets  for  this  purpose.  Our  prospects  look 
gloomy  enough  to  me.  I  think  we  are  doomed  to  drift  down  the  straits  and  out  into  liaflhi's  Bay  like  the 
Polaris. 

1 2  noon.  Still  overcast  and  snowing.  All  land  invisible.  Cape  Sabine  show'ed  itself  indistinctly  for  a 
few  moments  and  bore  about  SW.,  but  most  of  the  time  even  the  sun's  position  has  been  unknown.  All  inside 
the  ttpce  is  wet,  damp,  and  uncomfortable.  Schneider  is  working  on  boots — cutting  off  the  tops  and  uppers 
and  sewing  on  canvas  in  the  shape  of  a  bag  which  is  drawn  tight  by  means  of  strings.  They  answer  the  i)ur- 
j)ose  arounil  the  camp  very  well.  Unfortunately  I  have  no  boots.  Rice,  &:c.,  are  building  a  snow  house. 
The  party  in  the  boat  are  decidedly  the  most  comfortable.  The  thermometer  ranges  somewhere  above  30 
deg.  [—1.1°  C.].  Cross  got  his  foot  frost-bitten  some  days  ago.  To-day  it  is  much  worse  and  he  can 
hardly  walk.  The  doctor  dressed  it.  Jans  [Jens]  shot  three  seals  this  afternoon — small  ones.  Connell  is 
suffering  with  diarrhea,  and  has  been  transferred  back  to  the  boat.  Corporal  Salor  takes  his  place  here  in 
the  teper.  This  evening  the  sky  has  cleared  up  somewhat  and  the  snow  stopped,  and  Kllesmere  ',and  and 
Bache  Island  became  visible.  Cocked  Hat  Island  bears  10  deg.  S.  of  W.,  which,  assuniin^'  •.!:.;  distance  at 
2o  miles,  makes  our  latitude  [78"]  53  min.,  whicji  is  encouraging.  The  snow  house  built  is  secured  with 
uprights,  the  top  of  it  a  sail.  It  is  yet  too  mild  to  plaster  the  holes  with  sludge.  Jans  [Jens]  shot  another 
seal  about  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  but  he  sunk  before  he  could  be  gotten. 

September  22. — Cot  up  to  find  the  snow  had  ceased,  and  the  sky  comparatively  clear.  Cocked  Hat 
Island  and  the  adjacent  coast,  also  Bache  Island,  became  more  or  less  distinct.  Israel  made  our  position 
by  compass  bearings  [78°]  54  min.  and  directly  north  of  Cairn  Point.  A  little  before  10  o'clock  Bender  spied 
the  whale-boat  on  the  floe  to  the  south  of  us,  on  the  other  side  of  a  large  space  of  open  water,  about  three- 


"Mi 


I 


884 


Till-:  LADY  FI^ANKLiN  HAY  KXPKlilTlON. 


quarters  of  a  mile  across.  Rlcu  with  tliu  party  in  our  remaining;  lioat  (luiikly  went  after  it,  l)Ut  they  found 
on  crossing  the  watir  tliat  tlie  whale  l>()at  was  still  aliout  a  half-mile  off,  and  on  ai  count  of  the  <lense  masses 
of  sludge  ice  whii:h  would  not  bear,  it  was  impossihle  to  net  at  it.  This  was  a  great  disa|)|)ointmeiit.  On 
their  return  it  was  |iractically  settled  that  our  boat  would  hold  all,  25  of  us.  It  briuj^s  her  <|uite  low  in  the 
water,  but  still  in  a  smooth  sea  we  could  carry  our  whole  party  and  some  few  days'  provisions.  Meridian 
observation  by  Israel  makes  our  latitude  [7'S"|  52.6  min.  Observation  somewhat  uncertain  on  account  of  the 
low  latitude  of  the  sun.  A  few  seals  seen  around  this  morning.  They  are  now  of  daily  oci:urrence.  ( Ireen- 
land  coast  invisible.  Sleeping-bags  in  the  t<pif  very  wet,  some  of  them  wringing  wet.  'I'here  was  a  pool  of 
water  under  that  occujiieil  by  Cross  and  the  two  Ivskimo.  Tif'fc  changed  t"  a  better  place  this  morning. 
The  snow  house  is  ([uite  c(jmfortable.  (Juite  calm,  but  foggy  arountl  the  horizon.  Tlic  latter  can  be  seen 
only  in  a  few  [)laces.  'J'he  laundi  could  not  be  seen  tnis  morning — jirobably  crushed,  or  <lrifted  off  from 
moorings.  It  came  on  to  blow  and  snow  during  the  afternoon.  \\'ind  from  the  northern  cjuadrant,  though 
there  is  some  difference  of  opinion  as  to  ilireclion.     Thermometer  8°  [  —  13.3°  C.]. 

Siptcmbcr  23. —  lireakfast  about  7.30  a.  m.  Snowing  hard  and  all  land  invisible.  Air  very  thick. 
'I'emperature  has  rim  low.  It  must  have  gone  down  near  to  zero  [  — I7.8°C.]  last  night.  AVind  and  snow 
all  night.  Wc  are  now  on  allowance  of  hard  bread.  Pretty  much  all  the  hard  bread  is  in  the  shape  of 
powder.  Each  mess  has  its  allowance  <lealt  out  at  night  for  supper  and  for  breakfast.  Those  sufilering  from 
diarrhea  had  corned  beef  mixed  with  their  seal  meat  for  supper  and  for  breakfast.  Impossible  to  say  where 
we  are  now.  A  good  deal  of  new  ice  is  forme<l.  The  oil  canvas  we  have  under  ttie  sleeping  bags  keeps  out 
the  wet  and  cf  Id  very  imi)erfectly.  I  lay  awake  for  several  hours  tills  morning  with  cold  feet.  Thermom- 
eter at  9  a.m.  17°  [—8.3°  C.J.  (Mean  memorandum)  [mininum)]  8°  [—13.3°  C".].  |Barometer]  30.02 
1762.49""].  Israel  comes  in  anil  rejiorts  the  result  of  compass  bearings  from  Kllesmere  Land  and  Hache 
Island,  which  have  loomed  up  indistinctly.  ^Ve  arc  about  three  and  a  half  miles  cast  of  the  meridian  of 
Sabine,  and  about  ten  miles  distant  from  it.  The  wind  during  the  night,  Israel  thinks,  must  have  been  from 
the  nortlieast.  The  whale-l)oat  is  reported  in  sight  again.  F.verything  is  wet  and  cold  and  monotonous. 
Those  troubled  with  diarrhea  have  recovered,  or  nearly  so,  but  Cross's  foot  is  worse. 

.SV/A'w/vr  24. — Coflee  and  seal  meat  with  five  ounces  of  liread  and  toast  for  breakfast.  Light  wind 
from  the  north  all  night,  and  still  from  that  (piarter,  though  Lieutenant  (ireely  thinks  it  blew  from  the  south- 
west for  some  time  during  tlie  night.  It  has  cleared  off  somewhat  this  morning.  ^Ve  are  getting  near 
Sabinc-as  well  as  Cocked  Hat  Island.  They  were  reckoned  some  time  ago  as  from  6  to  8  miles  distant. 
The  whale-boat  can  still  be  seen  this  morning  about  two  miles  in  the  direction  of  Alexandra  Harbor.  A 
wide  pool  of  recent  open  water,  but  now  very  young  ice,  extends  in  a  general  north  and  south  direction  to 
the  vest  of  our  present  floe,  and  only  a  few  yards  distant.  Rice  thinks  it  inadvisable  to  attempt  doing 
anything,  and  Hrainard  otfers  little  or  no  encouragement  of  being  able  to  make  any  distance  to  the  west  on 
account  of  sludge  ice,  oiien  water,  &c.  A  little  before  noon  a  council  was  held,  and  it  was  thought  advisable 
to  reconnoiter  the  situation  to  the  westward;  this  was  advised  to  be  done  by  means  of  the  kyak.  It  was 
decided,  however,  to  send  the  boats  acro.ss  the  water  pool  to  the  west  of  us.  I  went  with  Sergeant  Urainard 
and  seven  men.  We  jiroceeded  over  a  floe  of  last  year's  ice  towards  the  west,  and  toward  the  whale-boat, 
whose  mast  was  distinctly  visible.  I  sent  Jewell  with  Ellis  off  to  the  southwest.  After  traveling  a  mile  I 
came  across  a  crack  and  some  open  water  and  left  Bender  to  give  the  alarm  in  case  the  crack  widened  so 
as  to  injure  our  return.  Bender  signaled  to  us  after  we  had  proceeded  two  or  three  hundred  yards  [about 
180  or  270"'].  AVe  returned  immediately  after  having  reached  the  whale-boat,  the  commotion  of  the  ice 
making  advance  very  dangerous.  Saw  a  considerable  mass  of  rubble- ice  off  between  us  and  the  whale- 
boat.  This  Brainard  thought  impassable.  Had  to  cut  through  considerable  young  ice  in  crossing  the  lead 
near  by.  AVe  must  have  drifted  to-day,  .according  to  bearings  by  Israel,  a  mile  to  the  south  and  about  a 
mile  to  the  east.  AVe  were  in  latitude  [78  deg.]  50  min.  and  about  a  mile  east  of  the  meridian  of  Brevoort 
Island  about  three  o'clock.  The  whale-boat  is  about  two  miles  distant.  Wind  from  the  northwest  now 
and  for  most  of  the  day.  The  tea  ration  has  been  still  further  reduced.  The  temperature  is  low  but  still 
above  zero  [—17.8°  C.j. 

September  25. — Noon,  our  position  by  bearings  [78°]  45.8  min.,  1.4  miles  east  of  the  meridian  of  Brevoort 
Island.  It  has  been  blowing  all  day  from  the  northeast  very  strong.  Breakfast  this  morning  at  6  o'clock. 
About  I  o'clock  the  floe  we  are  now  on  split  in  two  and  left  us  on  a  small  piece,  the  west  end,  a  few  acres 
in  extcnc.  A  great  commotion  in  the  ice  [)receded  this.  This  masses  [mass]  of  rubble  many  feet  high  being 
pressed  up  on  the  edges  of  the  floe  and  those  ailjoining.     Our  drift  is  somewhat  to  the  south.    What 


TIIK  LADY  FUANKIilN  HAY   KXPKUITION. 


385 


appears  like  land-locked  ice  lias  appeared  in  tlie  direction  of  Cajie  Sal)ine,  but  not  very  far  <iistant.  The 
situation  of  atlairs  is  very  j;looiny,  and  our  i)ros|)ects  will  l)e  either  very  much  worse  or  much  better  in  the 
next  twenty-four  hours.  (lod  only  knows  what  is  awaiting  us.  The  wind  continues  blowing  violently  and 
shaking  down  showers  of  snow  here  in  the  tciit.  Temperature  about  12'^  [  — ii.i°(".|.  5.30  p.  m.,  position 
•ibout  half  a  mile  more  to  tlie  east  since  suppei,  wliicli  we  ha<l  at  3  o'(  Iik  k.  We  are  now,  according  to 
Israel's  bearings,  three  miles  north  of  Brevoort  Island  and  two  miles  east  of  it.  We  are  very  close  to  a 
large  floe  north  of  Sabine,  which  appears  to  extend  all  the  way  to  shore.  We  are  separated  from  it  by  great 
masses  of  sludge  anil  rubble-ice  pressed  tojjether  by  enormous  pressure  in  the  greatest  confusion.  Fred- 
erik  [Christiansen]  crossed  this  to  the  floe  referred  to  awhile  ago.  It  is  only  about  two  or  three  hundred 
yards  [about  180  or  ayo'"]  across.  The  wind  has  changed  aroimd  to  the  northwest,  just  the  wrong  direction. 
It  has  not  blown  so  hard  however  as  before,  but  the  sky  is  thick  and  the  night  looks  stormy.  Kverything 
appears  against  us.  Our  little  floe  is  now  surrounded  by  a  fringe  of  rubble  and  hummocks  pressed  up  on 
its  outer  edge.  The  commotion  in  the  ice  has  recommenced  in  the  last  few  minutes.  God  knows  where 
tomorrow  morning  will  find  us.  Our  jjrospects  are  gloomy  enough.  Our  fresh  water  is  near  by,  fortu- 
nately, and  was  not  on  that  part  of  the  floe  which  was  detached.  Seal  meat,  weak  tea  without  sugar  or 
irilk,  and  a  little  hard  bread  constitutes  our  meals.  Cross  has  found  another  fof)t  frost-bitten,  and  the  doctor 
dressed  it  this  evening. 

Septi-inher  26. — Not  many  of  us  slept  last  night.  The  northwest  wind  continued  all  night  and  drove 
us  around  Cape  Sabine.  Considerable  o])en  water  made  its  appearance  to  the  north.  Itreakfast  between 
5  and  6  o'clock.  After  breakfast  there  was  some  discussion  as  to  the  feasibility  of  reaching  shore.  Open 
water  apparently  extended  all  the  way,  but  to  get  to  it  we  had  to  pass  through  nearly  a  mile  of  sludge  ice 
and  it  was  judged  im|)ossible  to  do  it.  .\bout  noon  our  little  floe  again  cracked,  and  the  rubble  began  i)iling 
up  on  the  edges  very  near  the  tent.  At  the  same  time  or  shortly  afterwards  we  found  ourselves  near 
a  large  paleocrystic  floe  to  the  north,  but  it  was  judged  best  to  cross  over  to  it.  This  we  accordingly  did, 
meeting  a  severe  northwest  gale  with  snow.  It  was  a  severe  journey,  but  the  two  tloes  held  together  and  it 
was  made  all  right.  We  are  now  on  a  large  paleocrystic  floe,  and  continuous  ice  api)arenily  extends  to  the 
shore.  No  fresh  water  has  yet  been  discovered  on  this  floe.  Cross  was  barely  able  to  walk ;  could  do  no 
work  at  all,  both  feet  being  frost-bitten.  The  northwest  gale  at  this  hour  (about  4.30  p.  m.)  still  continues. 
We  are  apparently  immovable  just  now,  are  jjrobably  packed  and  jammed  in  ice  somewhat,  (lod  knows 
what  the  end  of  all  this  will  be.  I  see  nothing  but  starvation  and  death.  The  spirits  of  the  party,  however, 
are  remarkably  good.  Rum  this  evening.  Our  little  floe  has  had  another  crack  just  before  starting.  It 
was  very  wise  that  we  got  off  it  when  we  did.  The  gale  has  continue<l  during  the  day.  Thermometer  15 
degrees  [about  —9.0°  C.J  or  thereabouts. 

September  27. — 5  p.  m.  Blowing  and  snowing  still  furiously.  The  gale  has  continued.  We  seem  to 
be  some  half  dozen  miles  above  Cape  Isabella.  Breakfast  this  -norning  consisted  of  hard  bread  and  without 
anything  to  drink.  An  attempt  is  being  made  to-night  to  cook.  Kverything  is  covered  with  snow,  and  we 
are  miserable. 

Seplemkr  28. — 7  a.  m.  Gale  still  continues,  though  moderated  a  good  deal.  We  are  reported  about 
a  mile  from  shore,  above  Cape  Isabella,  wedged  in  a  bay  or  indentation  up  the  coast.  We  seemed  to  have 
moved  little  or  none  since  day  before  yesterday.  There  is  a  prospect  of  getting  ashore  by  crossing  a  lead 
of  open  water.  Our  old  floe  was  visited  by  Schneider  this  morning  and  is  all  broken  up.  Rice's  party  have 
had  an  extremely  trying  time  during  the  gale.  Those  in  this  boat  fared  the  best.  In  the  tepee  the  bags  are  all 
wet  and  covered  with  snow.  The  canvas  shakes  incessantly,  and  everything  is  miserable  Rice  and  (larty 
took  breakfast  in  the  tepee.  9.25  a.  m.  started  toward  shore  for  a  small  island,  or  what  looked  like  an  island; 
brought  everything  up  to  a  lead  of  open  water  about  a  cpiarter  of  a  mile  from  camp.  This  lead  is  about 
half  a  mile  wide.  Got  everylhing  across  the  lead  in  four  loads  by  boat.  Wind  blowing  heavily  and  a  con- 
siderable sea.  Got  everything  across  by  12  o'clock.  Found  ourselves  on  a  large  paleocrystic  floe  upwards 
of  a  mile  across.  Started  across  this  with  boats,  &c.,  to  its  farther  end.  Made  up  a  load  from  here  of  pro- 
visions, sleeping-bags,  &c.,  and  reached  a  large  berg,  perhaps  grounded  near  land,  in  70  minutes.  Returned 
in  45  minutes  and  brought  on  next  load  in  65  minutes,  reaching  cami)  at  6.05  p.  m.  The  party  with  small 
sledge  are  still  out,  bringing  on  some  things.  The  boat  is  still  on  the  near  side  of  the  large  paleocrystic  floe. 
Fighting  walrus  seen  on  the  ice  near  present  camp.  Bear  tracks  near  by.  We  are  on  the  north  side  of  Baird 
Inlet,  and  probably  half  a  mile  from  land.  Some  new  ice  Um  weak  to  bear,  prevents  us  from  going  out  to-night. 
The  northwest  wind  still  continues,  but  is  quite  moderated  now.  Sky  clear.  No  snow.  Cross  was  able  to 
walk,  but  that  was  all. 

H.  Mi8.  393 25 


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386 


THK  LADY   FKANKLLN  I5AY  KXI'KIHTION. 


Srptfmhfr  iry. — Made  the  land.  Startcl  at  7.40  a.  m.,  and  went  back  one  and  a  half  miles  after  the  boat. 
This  morning  the  small  slcdgi-  went  on  townnls  laml.  Kctiirned  to  (amp  with  the  boa!  in  the  course  of  two 
hours,  and  then  continued  tm  towards  land.  I  made  two  visits  by  boat  o\  er  leads.  Found  a  great  many 
small  bergs,  probably  from  the  nipping  ghu  iei.  Made  l.mcl  at  5.»o  p.  m.  at  a  ro<  ky  promontory,  whic  h 
they  thought  at  first  was  an  island.  Several  walrus  seen  to-day,  Men  com|)lain  of  being  \ery  tired.  Last 
half-mile  sledging  over  some  good  ii  e,  but  after  that  we  encountered  a  great  deal  of  rubble.  Wind  from  the 
north  until  this  evening.  This  evening  from  the  s.ime  direi  tion,  but  it  has  moderated,  with  very  slight 
breeze.  Jt  blew  last  night  strong  from  the  north.  The  two  I'.skimo  ha\e  been  enileavoring  to  shoot  seal 
or  walrus  during  the  day,  but  without  su(  cess.  .Slejil  and  rooked  among  the  rucks.  All  very  thankful  to  be 
on  land  once  more.      No  icefoot  along  here. 

St/iltitil<ir  T,o. — Wiml  changed  to  the  south  or  southwest  and  blows  lightly.  We  are  said  to  be  about 
13  miles  in  a  straight  line  below  Cape  Sabine.  We  are  on  a  rock  formed  like  a  promontory  between  two 
glaciers.  Position  not  exactly  known  yet.  Went  on  top  the  i)romontory  this  morning.  Saw  ohl  bear 
tracks  and  old  Kskimo  meat  cache.  Leave  in  the  morning  with  nine  men  for  Cape  Sabine.  Sky  over 
cast  and  everything  dreary.  We  ( amped  on  the  rocks  last  night.  Cor])oral  Salor  returned  with  Frederik 
[Christiansen]  just  before  supper  lime,  and  reported  that  he  got  about  half  a  mile  from  the  cape,  from  thence 
passing  over  here  from  the  north  (which  is  probably  the  south  cape  of  Rosse  Hay),  and  there  he  got  on 
moving  ice  and  encountered  open  water,  and  was  unable  to  proceed  farther.  Saw  open  water  also  in  the 
direction  of  shore,  and  does  not  think  a  sleilge  could  go  to  Sabine  as  things  jfreat  jjresent.  This  broke  up 
the  arrangpment  contemplated  of  my  going  to-morrow.  Rice  suggested  that  he  an<l  Jans  |Jens|  could 
probably  make  the  trij)  without  taking  any  sledge,  the  two  using  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  sleeping-bag. 
They  took  no  lamp,  but  some  rum  and  water  mi.xed,  also  a  little  |)enimican  and  bread — ("our  days'  rations 
in  all.  This  is  accordingly  the  present  arrangement.  Ri(  e  and  Jans  |  Jens|  are  tn  start  in  the  morning.  No 
suitable  place  for  a  winter  resident  e  has  yet  been  found,  The  rations  we  have  on  hand  will  last  probably 
25  days  longer.  Nothing  shot  today,  and  nothing  seen  but  a  few  seals.  Cross  saw  two  snow-buntings.  Oui 
situation  is  forlorn. 

Monday,  Octoher  1. — Rice  and  Jans  [JcnsJ  and  two  men  to  accom])any  them  a  short  distance  left  at 
8.45  a.  m.  Kxpect  to  be  l)ai:k  in  six  marches.  Lieutenant  Rislingbury  returned  late  last  night,  He  went 
over  the  glacier  the  next  to  the  east,  and  fouiul  th.it  it  would  be  necessary  to  travel  over  land  to  reach  Cape 
Sabine,  on  .iccount  of  open  water  near  shore  and  no  ice-foot.  Wind  changed  to  the  south  this  morning,  and 
the  ice  in  the  straits  is  moving  south  again — a  good  deal  of  open  water  near  shore.  Cardiner  sutfering  a 
good  deal  with  the  felon  on  one  of  his  fingers.  Long  saw  a  great  many  walrus  to-ilay  in  the  water  in  front 
of  our  camp.  He  shot  one,  but  the  animal  sank.  Had  no  kyak  at  hand.  1  went  to  the  farther  side  of 
the  south  |)romontory  to  examine  ground  for  huts.  The  doctor,  Kislingbury,  Hrainard,  an<l  I  decided  that 
this  side  of  the  glacier  is  the  best  place.  All  the  men  were  consulted  to-day  as  to  the  reduction  of  rations. 
We  have  about  35  days  here,  and  count  on  10  or  12  at  Sabine.  Most  all  the  men  thought  the  rations  should 
be  made  to  last  (these  356  [rations])  for  45  or  50  days.  A  fox  came  in  close  to  camp  to-day  and  was  shot 
at  and  wounded.     We  still  get  fresh  water  from  a  small  paleocrystic  floe. 

Oilober  2. — Two  foxes  came  around  early  this  morning,  but  were  not  gotten.  In  the  evening  Brainard 
and  I  found  a  route  to  the  place  selected  for  the  huts.  It  is  about  a  mile  to  the  north,  nearly  to  the  ghu  ier. 
Moved  most  of  the  things  over  in  two  loads,  leaving  most  of  the  things  packed  to  be  brought  up  another 
time.  Got  in  with  the  last  load  at  3  o'clock.  A  desolate,  forlorn  place  of  rocks  and  stone.  We.ather  over 
cast  but  calm.  The  weather  continues  very  mild,  probably  between  2o'[— 6.7°C]  and  30"  [— i.i'^  C.J 
The  ice  is  very  wet  and  sludgy.  Rations  cut  down  this  morning  to  10  pounds  [six  and  one  half  ounces  to  a 
man]  of  bread  a  day  for  the  whole  party.  Two  and  a  (juarter  pound  of  potatoes  and  twelve  ounces  of  meat. 
This  is  still  farther  reduced  after  we  get  in  the  huts. 

<9("AV'cr 3.  — Commenced  buildinghuts,  and  found  a  great  many  Eskimo  meat  caches.  The  place  selected 
is  near  the  shore,  a  half  mile  north  of  the  north  promontory.  Three  huts  decided  on.  The  boat  is  to  form 
the  roof  of  one  of  the  huts.  Fach  hut  is  to  be  built  of  stone  with  a  wall  of  ice  around  it.  Several  old 
walrus  and  a  whale  bone  found.  We  have  been  out  every  day.  The  hunters  designated  are  the  two 
Eskimos,  Long,  and  Kislingbury.  Day  overcast  with  light  snow.  Light  breeze  from  the  north.  Great  deal 
of  open  water. 

Octolu-r  4. — Colder  and  tolerably  clear.  Ration  increased  by  advice  of  the  doctor,  commencing  this 
evening,  to  fourteen  ounces  of  jjemmican,  eight  of  hard  bread,  and  one  and  a  half  of  potatoes.  Hunters 
brought  in  nothing  to-day.     Long  met  a  great  many  walrus  out  in  the  straits  in  the  open  water.     We  have 


THK  LADY  I-KANKFilN  BAY  KXl'KIHTION. 


387 


been  at  work  on  the  houses  all  ilay.  llrDu^'hi  a  ln.iil  Irmnthe  cache  left  at  last  cam|>.  Tht'rmi)n\ctcr  about 
lo  degrees  [— i2.2°C.],  The  houses  have  an  outer  wall  of  ice,  and  an  inner  wall  of  rot  k,  and  wrap  roof 
with  canvas.  f)ur  tea  is  now  extremely  weak.  This  is  a  niinerahle  existenc  e,  only  ])referal)le  to  death.  CJet 
little  sleeji  at  night  on  account  of  hard  slee[)inn  ha^  and  the  cold. 

Oitohi'i-  5. — Occupied  huilding  huts  from  y  until  .',  wiien  leaving  two  men  continuing  the  work  on  each 
hut,  the  rest  of  us  went  to  the  old  lauip  ami  hrougiil  hack  the  last  remaining  load  of  provisions,  iVc.  Cross 
shot  four  ptarmigan  this  afternoon.  The  birds  alighted  near  by.  Weather  dull  and  overcast,  chilly  and 
dreary.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  open  water  in  the  straits.  We  now  ha\e  three  chances  for  our  lives:  The 
chance  of  finding  American  cache  sufficient  at  .Sabine  or  at  Isabella,  'i'he  chance  of  crossing  the  straits  when 
our  present  rations  are  gone.  The  chance  of  being  able  to  shoot  sutVuient  seal  and  walrus  near  by  here  to 
last  us  during  the  winter.  Our  situation  is  1 .  .  lainly  alarming  in  the  extreme.  Lieutenant  (ireely  is  sleep  Jig 
out  with  Jewell  and  some  one  else  in  the  three  man  bag,  Gardiner  occupying  his  bag  in  the  lef^fe  here.  We 
find  it  very  severe  work  building  these  huts.  We  are  all  weak,  and  the  rocks  are  of  granite  and  very  heavy, 
and  noteasily  obtainable.  The  ice  walls  of  the  "  whale-boat  house  "  (the  one  I  belong  to)  are  finisheil,  and 
the  stone  walls  were  also  almost  completed  to-day. 

October  6. — Moved  into  the  hut  to-day :  Rice,  Jewell,  Gardiner,  Elison,  Ellis,  Lieutenant  Greely,  and 
myself.  Rice  has  not  yet  returned.  Weather  overcast  and  foggy,  as  it  has  been  jiretty  nnich  every  day 
since  we  got  here.  There  are  three  huts.  IJrainard's  party  have  the  boat  as  a  part  of  their  roof;  also  the 
cover  of  the  steam-launch.  The  other  hut  and  ours  have  canvas  on  the  roof.  A  seal  shot  to-day  by  Fred- 
erik  [Christiansen],  weighing  about  150  pounds.  Entrails  and  everything  are  to  be  saveil.  We  are  to  keep 
a  blubber  lamp  burning  in  the  huts  all  the  time,  exce|)t  when  cooking  or  sleeping.  The  fumes  from  the 
stearine  are  intolerable — very  trying  on  the  eyes  and  throat  alike.  Anothc.  eal  was  shot,  but  could  not  be 
got  before  he  sank.     Several  walrus  out  in  tliv  open  water  of  the  straits. 

October  7. — (.Mear,  but  no  sunshine.  All  working  on  huts  all  day.  Sergeant  "onnell  reduc  I  to  the 
ranks,  to  date  from  September  29,  for  intemperate  language.  Lieutenant  Greely  infoi  ns  me  he  shall  prefer 
charges  against  him,  if  we  return  to  America,  for  mutiny;  also  against  Dr.  I'avy  and  Lieutenant  Kislingbury 
on  the  same  charges.  The  "  Phalarope"  \liciUim(mt\,\o  which  they  all  belong,  is  a  place  by  no  means 
pleasant.  A  great  deal  of  criticism  has  been  indulged  in  by  those  named  which  -is  extremely  prejudicial. 
Long  and  Frederik  [Christiansen]  shot  a  walrus  to-day,  but  the  animal  has  just  life  enough  left  to  crawl  into, 
the  water  after  being  shot.  The  issue  of  tea  was  stopjjcd  last  night.  We  had  coffee  for  breakfast,  however, 
and  to-night  we  are  to  have  the  grounds  boiled  over  again.  Rice  and  Jans  [Jens]  are  expec  ted  back  to  day 
but  have  not  yet  arrived  at  this  hour,  2,)''2  P-  ni.  Ellis  and  Whisler  have  been  sent  out  a  few  miles  to  look 
for  them.     F'rederik  [Christiansen]  shot  a  ptarmigan  this  morning. 

October  8. — .\  dismal  day,  generally  overcast  and  cold.  We  have  been  working  on  the  hut  all  day. 
Got  the  moss  on  the  roof  and  also  several  bagsful  under  the  sleeping-bags.  We  had  Hudson  Bay  pemmican 
for  breakfast,  and  liked  it  very  much.  Rice  not  yet  returneil.  Lieutenant  Greely  intended  to  send  me  for 
him  to-morrow  with  a  sledge  and  party,  but  it  seems  a  sledge  cannot  get  over  the  glacier,  so  nothing  is  to  be 
done  at  present.  Frederik  [Christiansen]  shot  two  .seals  to-day,  but  they  both  sank  before  the  kyak  could 
be  got  to  them.     Fox  came  in  camp  last  night  and  stole  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  bread. 

Octohi-r  9. — My  birthday — occupied  in  gathering  moss  chiefly.  Rice  returned  with  glorious  news  of 
rations  and  help.  Protein  wreck — Rice  brings  a  register  of  1883,  by  which  it  seems  I  am  promoted  to  be 
first  lieutenant.  Rice  discovered  a  strait  connecting  Ro.sse  Hay  with  Cocked  Hat  Island;  visited  Sabine 
and  Cocked  Hat  Island.  Rations  reduced  to-day  to  12  ounces  meat,  6  ounces  hard  bread,  i)/^  ounces 
potatoes,  with  weak  tea  or  coffee  once  a  day.  It  has  been  decided,  however,  to  move  up  the  coast,  so  now 
the  ration  will  be  increased  some  again.  We  all  feel  now  in  excellent  spirits  by  the  news  Rice  brought  in. 
The  prospect  since  landing  here  has  looked  forlorn  indeed,  and  death  by  starvation  the  most  probable  end 
to  our  existence.  Now  all  seems  cha^iged.  Oi^r  huts  are  almost  completed.  This  one  has  the  moss  on 
the  roof,  and  is  now  tolerably  comfori.i!)lc.  Lin'.i.  has  bv.°n  made  a  sergeant,  beginning  to-day,  to  date  from 
the  lirst  instant.  Rice  got  a  fo.-  Rice  discovered  time  caches — the  English  cache  of  240  rations,  the 
cache  left  by  the  Neptune  in  188;',   '.nd  the  cajhe  brc.igli.  off  the  wreck  of  the  P)-oteiis  in  1883. 

October  10. — Intended  to  fct;iit  this  morning,  hv<  \\  ;  snowing  hard.  In  the  afternoon  it  cleared  off,  but 
it  was  decided  too  late  to  start.  I>.iy  overcast,  d.iuvi.,  >aid  cold.  In  the  huts  we  a  e  troubled  with  cold, 
darkness,  and  the  dense  volumes  of  smoke  from  the  stearine.     Considerable  complaining  at  times.     We  are 


vl- 


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!     ! 


388 


TllK  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


all  now  in  comparatively  high  spirits,  and  look  forward  to  getting  back  to  the  United  States  with  a  great 
deal  of  certainty.  We  sliall  have  to  live  on  half  rations  or  less  until  April,  and  conteniiilate  shortness  of 
fuel.     Many  hanlships  are  obvious,  but  we  all  feel  sound  again. 

Oiio'rr  II. — (Mean  memorandum)  fniiniinum|  last  night  —7°  [—2i.-]°C].  At  6.30  p.  m.,  —4" 
[  —  20.0°  C.J;  6.45,  started  with  sledge  and  load  of  things  which  will  not  be  needed  for  some  days.  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury,  myself,  Sergeant  Hrainard,  Jans  [Jens],  14  of  us  in  all.  Lieutenant  Cirecly  went  along  for  a  mile 
or  two.  Rice  left  abrut  the  s.i..ie  time  with  Frederik,  l'!skimo,  for  Cape  Isabella  to  see  if  there  is  any 
American  depot  there.  We  hauled  load  to  the  east  side  of  Rosse  Bay,  reaching  a  projecting  point  of  rocks 
at  11.30.  After  a  quarter  of  an  hour  delay  in  making  the  cache  we  started  back  and  reached  huts  at  2.50 
p.  m.  It  proved  clear  but  cold.  Cold  wind  blowing  from  the  northeast,  but  not  experienced  until  we 
passed  the  Norton  [Newton]  glacier.  This  is  the  first  real  clear  day  we  have  had.  Traveling  to-day  very 
good.  Cross  has  taken  aib-antage  of  our  absence  to  get  into  the  rum,  and  is  rejiorted  as  more  or  less  under 
the  influence.  Seal  shot  to-day  about  the  same  size  as  the  last,  150  pounds  uncleaned.  'l\vo  foxes  came 
around  this  morning  and  they  were  shot  at,  but  v.idiout  success.     This  makes  the  third  or  fourth. 

Octobfr  I ». — 7  a.  m.  (mean  memorandum)  [minimum]  last  night,  —12.5  [  —  24.7°  C.].  At  |)reseiit,  —8.5 
[  — 22.5°C.].  Clear,  caim,  and  cold.  8.15  a.  in.,  started  for  Rosse  Hay.  Small  sledge  started  about  an 
hour  before  us.  Lead  very  heavy,  though  the  route  got  smooth  generally.  2.,?5  p.  m.,  reached  cache  left 
yesterday  and  went  into  camp.  Overcast  and  threatening  snow.  Ration  increased  to  i  pound  meat,  10 
ounces  bread,  i^  ounces  potatoes.  The  doctor  recommends  full  English  sledge  rations.  Distance  trav- 
eled about  6  miles.     Water  found  near  this  camp. 

October  13. — Crossed  Ro"- .^  Bay  and  came  out  south  along  Rice  Strait,  distant  about  5  miles.  Brought 
two  loads.  Advance  first  load  3  hours — returned  in  2  hours  and  brought  seconil  load  in  the  same  time  as 
the  first.  Day  overcast,  snowing  lightly.  Got  into  cam])  .at  5.20  ]).  m.  Antici|)ate  having  to  make  two 
days  ciossing  this  bay.  Sleep  to-night  on  the  rocks.  Light  wind  blowing.  Dark,  foggy,  cold,  and  chilly — 
miserable. 

October  14.— 5  a.  m.,  cooks  called.  7.50  a.  m.,  break  camp  to  march  to  the  north  end  of  Rice  Strait, 
distant  about  5  miles.  Cold  stew  fur  breakfast.  Reached  the  camp  with  second  load  at  3.45  p.  in. 
First  advance,  2  hours  25  minutes;  return,  2  hours.  Second  advance,  2  hours  and  40  minutes.  Second 
advance  had  to  pull  sledge  and  load  over  the  ice-foot  on  account  of  open  water  in  the  straits  reaching  to 
the  west  shore.  Day  foggy  and  overcast,  with  light  wind  from  the  north  at  times  and  snow  most  of  the 
day.  Weather  dark,  dreary,  and  miserable.  Jans  [Jens]  shot  at  seals  in  o[)en  water,  but  ili<l  not  get  any. 
Water  found  near  present  camp.  We  are  to  make  a  cache  here  to-morrow  and  advance  with  one  load  to 
the  place  of  our  winter  quarters.  Cocketl  Hat  Island  is  about  one  am'  a  half  miles  to  the  east  of  us. 
Slept  little  last  night  or  the  night  before  on  accoun*  of  the  cold.  The  alcohol  allowance  is  4  ounces,  but  it 
won't  C{A)k  the  stew  e.vcept  when  we  find  water,  and  then  with  difficulty. 

October  15. — 4.70  a.  m.  cooks  called.  7  a.  m.,  Lieutenant  tlreely  left  with  (iardiner  and  Jans  [jens|  to 
visit  the  caches;  7.25  a.  m.,  the  rest  of  us  started  witli  the  sledge.  Traveling  pretty  good  for  soiiu;  time, 
but  gradually  we  got  into  rubl)le-ice.  At  9.30,  when  riL>out  two  miles  east  of  Cocked  Hat  Island,  the  sledge 
broke  down,  the  runner  si)litting.  1 1.45,  got  started  again.  In  about  one  and  one-half  hours  met  Lieutenant 
Oreely  on  return.  Reached  place  of  wreck  cache  left  by  Proteus  at  2.11;  p.  m.  Not  so  many  rations  found 
as  anticipated.  Hard  to  say  how  we  will  be  able  to  pull  through  this  winter.  Rice  and  Frederik,  Fskiino, 
returned  shortly  after  we  got  into  camp.  Our  winter  (|uariers  decided  on  at  this  [ilace.  Day  cold,  but  clear. 
The  sun  now  rises  very  late  and  sets  very  early,  and  never  gets  lar  ajjove  the  hori/.on.  We  left  behind  ai 
last  camp  about  1,200  pounds  of  stuff  to  be  brouglit  up  after  awhile.  Snowing  lightly  this  evening.  Every- 
thing dark  and  dreary. 

Octol'er  16. — Went  back  with  .Jeven  men  t(j  the  cache  lel'l  last  night.  Tlie  return  occupied  two 
hours  and  fifty  minutes,  I  presume.  Returning  left  camp  at  8.10  a.  m.  and  reached  cam])  again  at  1.20 
]).  m. ;  moving  ice,  many  cra-ks  along  shore.  Some  of  the  ])arly  went  down  in  the  cache  below  us;  tem- 
porary shelter  ])Ut  here.  Northeast  wind  and  driving  snow-storm  during  the  day,  making  travel  very 
disagreeable.     Teini)orary  shelter  made  with  snow  blocks  covered  with  canvas. 

Octo/irr  x"]. — Cooks  called  about  5  o'clock;  breakfast  of  cinned  mutton  and  coffee;  last  night  we 
had  clio(()late.  These  drinks  are  jireiKiied  with  milk  and  sugar,  and  are  much  liked.  The  rum  is  also  much 
liked,  being  Bedford  [Medfoid] — different  IVoin  th.it  we  had  at   lH)rl  Conger.     After  breakfast  most  of  tin; 


TIIK  LADY   FRANKLIN    I5AV   KXI'KDITlON. 


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two 

1.20 

tulil- 
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l)arty  wont  iVtwn  to  the  ciicIk'  alxjiu  ;i  mile  below  here.  The  wliale-hoiU  was  hauled  over  land  alioiit  500 
yards  [about  450'"!,  and  thence  to  this  place  on  the  sle<lt,'e.  Afterwards  some  fourteen  of  us  brought  up  the 
■est  of  the  cache,  arriving  liere  at  2.30  p.  ni.  I'ay  overcast  and  logf^y,  with  snow  and  north  wind — ('old  and 
disa  'leeable  in  the  extreme.  Several  of  the  party  have  frost  bites  on  the  Angers,  vVe.  Long  was  complaining 
this  mo;  ning  of  suffering  i)ain  in  the  >  Iiest.  We  fnid  water  in  a  lake  near  by  here.  Water  has  been  found 
at  a  inunber  o','  camps  between  here  and  l\skim<)  I'oint.  We  are  now  in  a  tem()orary  hut.  The  whale  lent 
is  pitched  near  by,  and  is  used  for  the  kvaks,  anil  also  by  one  three-man  slee|iing-bag.  A  crow  or  a  raven 
has  been  seei  around  for  several  days,  following  us  from  camp  to  cami).  'I'he  men  left  beh.ind  to-ilay  started 
the  foundation  of  (un'  pirmanent  ipiartcrs.      It  is  about  two  miles  from  here. 

Oiliiber  iS. —  Day  ovti  ast  aiK'  fogg\' ;  cold  wind  blowing  and  snowing;  very  disagreeable  and  trying. 
We  ha\e  be 'u  working  on  winter  (piarters  all  <lay.  (lot  u])  the  walls  of  the  building.  We  are  all  to  live 
in  one  building.  I'Vederik  |t'hristiansen|  slu  .  a  blue  fox  tb.is  morning.  I'he  ice  along  the  coast  is  thrown 
up  in  the  most  inextricuible  fashion.  We  have  rum  issued  every  day  after  work.  Several  of  the  men  have 
frostbitten  lingers.  Tem|)erature  this  morning  1  degree  [  — i  7.2"  f.  |.  (,\[ean  memoranilum)  |minimumj 
-  6  degrees  [—21.1"  ( '.  |. 

(h/(i/>i-r  I  (J. — 'I'he  whale-boat  was  mf)ved  up  and  |)ut  on  the  walls  of  the  house  this  morning,  after 
which  the  snow  wall  was  built  around  the  walls  of  stone.  The  spaces  between  these  two  walls  are  fdled  in  with 
snow  and  gra\el.  Cold  northwest  wind  blowing;  vcr)-  disagreeable.  All  complain  of  being  chilled  through. 
We  ;ire  unaMe  to  stand  the  cold  by  reason  of  sliort  rations.  luiglish  sledge-nnmer  broke  to-day,  or  rather 
the  shoe.  Long  and  the  two  Ivskimo  went  hunting,  but  got  nothing.  This  life  is  miserable  in  the 
extreme.  We  work  from  about  9  till  2.30.  It  grows  dark  now  very  soon.  'I'he  sun  has  not  been  seen 
since  we  came  here.  l''ound  carrying  heavy  box  of  gravel  200  yards  [about  180'"]  to  the  wall  of  the  house, 
in  the  face  of  the  wind,  very  severe.     Sleep  at  night  much  broken  by  cold  feet  and  general  discomfort, 

Oitoher  20. — Moved  into  winter  tpiarters  at  rivUiis  cache.  Day  miserably  stormy,  with  drifting 
wind  and  snow  from  the  northwest.  \\'e  started  between  8  and  9  o'clock.  The  cooks  were  called  about 
5  o'clock.  Started  to  haul  s;ind,  but  gave  it  up  on  accou..,.  of  the  storm,  b'ind  hut  (piite  warm,  compara- 
tively speaking.  The  boat  is  in  a  place  along  the  center  of  the  hut.  Hut  18  by  24  feet  [5.5  by  7.3'"  |,  built 
of  snow  und  rock,  with  a  snow  wall  outside.  Lamps  started  for  sujjper  at  2  o'clock.  Fresh  water  from  the 
hike  near  by. 

October  21. — Thermometer  below  zero  [—  17.8°  C!  this  morning.  At  8  o'clock  started  with  thirteen, 
Rice,  Mraniard,  iVc,  an<l  went  to  Rice  Strait  for  the  load  left  behind  there.  Found  the  ice  along  the  coast 
entirely  changed  and  very  rough.  Had  a  hard  time  making  our  way  through  it.  Found  ice  in  sight  of 
Cockerl  Kat  Island  much  the  same.  Reached  cache  at  12  o'clock.  We  took  up  on  the  F.nglish  sledge, 
whale-tent  and  four  days'  rations  for  Long  and  the  two  I'",skimo  who  go  up  there  hunting.  The  hunters 
started  about  the  same  time  as  we,  but  reached  cache  about  an  hour  before  us.  Pitched  the  whale-tent  for 
hunters,  and  started  back  at  12.20,  and  haub:l  load  homeward  I'or  three  hours,  when  at  3,20  we  dropped 
the  sledge  and  made  for  the  hut  without  it,  reaching  hut  at  4,25,  all  much  tired.  Rum  tf)-night  as  usual 
during  the  working  days.  To-night  the  messes  have  been  reduced  from  three  to  two,  and  the  cooking  done 
on  three  ounces  of  alcohol.     The  rations  are  now  i  pound  of  corned  beef,  8  ounces  hard  bread,  and  i|^ 

ounces  potatoes.     The  meat  is  now  merely [uiuleciph"iable  word]  or  hard  bread  left  out  of  a 

stew,  and  we  have  a  slight  addition  to  the  coflee,  or  whatever  it  is.  To-night  we  have  coffee.  We  are  now 
in  oiT  hut;  but  it  is  not  yet  finished,  and  is  cold  and  uncomfortable.  Our  constant  talk  is  about  something 
to  eat,  and  the  different  <lishes  we  have  enjoyed  or  hojie  to  enjoy  on  getting  back  to  civilization.  Ilowot'ten 
my  thoughts  turn  towards  home  and  the  dear  ones  there.  We  all  suppose  Cjarlington  and  party  are  at 
Littleton  Island,  but  yet  doubts  will  arise  as  to  it.  We  have  found  out  some  s'-raps  of  news  from  slips  of 
ncws|iapers  wrapped  around  the  lemons.  Ivich  man  had  a  lemon  to-night.  We  are  all  hungry  all  the  time. 
Hlubber  lamp  burning  to-night  for  the  first  time.  Lieutenant  dreely,  Israel,  Hieilerbick,  Whisler,  Mender,  and 
(lardiner  arc  on  the  invalid  list  to-day  with  sore  feet,  cramps,  &c. — minor  ailments.  It  was  snowing  hard 
and  very  thick  by  the  afternoon.     Hy  3  p.  in.  it  was  very  gloomy. 

Octol'ii-  12, — 7  a.  m..  Rice,  with  l'',llis,  Whisler,  and  Linn,  went  down  to  the  ( lothing  (-ache  near  Cape 
Sabine,  to  bring  up  as  much  clothing,  \'c.,  as  they  could  carry  on  their  backs.  8  a.  m.,  I  started  with  thir- 
teen others  to  bring  ii|i  the  sledge  lo.id  left  behind  vesterda)-.  Walked  back  in  an  !iour  and  got  in  at  11.30. 
The  only  ones  left  in  the  cami)  were  Lieutenant  Creely,  Cardiner,  and  liiederbick.    After  icurning  we  hauled 


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THE  LADY  IMIANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITFOX. 


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sand  for  the  huts,  and  the  sikiw  wall  was  completed.  Knocked  oft' work  at  2.15.  This  evening  being  Ellis' 
birthday,  we  are  to  have  somethiii},'  extra  (or  siijiper.  ISiederbick  is  making  a  punch  of  rum,  lemons,  and 
cloudberries,  which  is  to  be  wanned  u[)  by  expens^^  of  two  ounces  of  alcohol.  Day  overcast  and  thic'k  with 
light  snow  at  times.  It  is  yet  so  cold  in  the  hut  that  it  is  dilhcult  to  keep  one's  fingers  warm.  Everything 
is  uncomfortable  and  miserable,  (lardiner's  finger  has  taken  a  turn  for  the  worse.  Bender  is  complaining, 
but  the  others  are  all  pretty  well.  Rice  and  i)arty  returned  at  4.25  j).  m.,  having  left  the  clothing  cache  at 
2.15.  They  brought  considerable  clothing.  Kound  newspaper  article  by  Clay.  Rice  brought  back — found 
with  the  lantern  near  the  cache— a  newspaper  slip  by  .Mr.  Clay,  written  May  13,  1883,  from  which  we  infer 
the  loss  of  the  Jeannette  and  tiie  alarming  view  which  must  be  taken  at  home  of  our  situati(jn.  We  all 
think  that  our  friends  regard  us  as  lost.  Rice  read  the  pa[)er  aloud  this  evening,  and  it  has  excited  a  great 
deal  of  remark.  We  all  think  Clay's  pa|ier  is  almost  prophetic,  except,  of  course,  our  "lying  down  under 
the  (piiet  stars  to  die."  The  article  gives  me  pain  in  reflec'tion  of  the  great  alarm  and  sorrow  felt  by  my  dear 
father  and  mother  and  sisters  on  my  behalf  Should  my  a.nbitious  hopes  be  disai)pointed,  and  these  lines 
only  meet  the  eyes  of  those  so  dear,  may  they  not  add  to  ny  many  faults  and  failings  that  of  ingratitude  or 
want  of  aftection  in  not  more  frecjuent  allusions  to  them  and  my  thoughts  surrounding  [concerning]  them. 

Oilohi-r  23. — Cooks  called  at  4  a.  m.  At  7.10  a.  m.,  started  with  Rice  and  others,  some  twelve  of  us  in 
all,  and  went  to  the  cache  at  Cape  Sabine.  Ice  very  good  for  the  first  two  miles,  but  after  that  extremely 
rough — great  areas  of  rubble,  the  roughest  or  as  rough  as  I  ever  saw.  Constant  labor  with  the  axe 
required.  Morning  very  dark  and  tlreary,  with  cold  northwest  wind  blowing.  Reached  Sabine  in  three  and 
a  half  hours,  and  continued  on  to  English  cache  at  south  side  of  Payer  Harbor,  reaching  there  at  11.50. 
Left  there  the  records  of  the  expedition,  and  a  pendulum  in  a  cairn  which  1  constnuted.  I'ut  the  English 
cache  on  sledge  and  started  on  return,  after  delay  of  one  hour  and  ten  minutes.  Blustering  ami  cold  north- 
west wind  with  driving  snow.  Extremely  uncomfortable.  Left  sledge  and  load  at  C'ape  Sabine  at  2.15  p. 
m.  and  continued  on,  carrying  nothing  to  our  winter  (juariers.  The  most  of  the  men  reached  here  in  two 
hours  from  Sabine,  but  Islison  and  I  dropped  behind  to  look  after  the  doctor,  who  hurt  h.is  foot.  Night 
came  rapidly  on  and  we  lost  the  way.  Stumbled  and  llouiulered  among  the  rubhle-ite,  and  reached  the 
hut  at  5.15  p.  m.  extremely  tired  and  hungry.  Mutton  stew  and  tea  for  supper,  and  hard  bread — in  all 
about  one-fourth  as  nuich  as  would  satisfy  the  a|)i)etite.  Rice  read  some  newspaper  scraps  in  the  evening. 
Fine  stew  of  dog  jiemmican  this  morning.  To-morrow  we  go  back  for  the  load.  Much  open  water  seen  in 
lialf  niiie  or  more  water  from  shore.      In  Payer  Jlarbor  saw  open  water  and  one  or  two  seals. 

Oct  't-r  24. — 4  p.  m.  |a.m.J,  cooks  called,  7.30  a.  m.,  sledge  ])arty  with  myself  left  for  cache  at  Cape 
Sabine.  Had  a  very  hard  tramp  along  the  roc  ks  and  along  shore.  I''oimd  that  I  had  hurt  my  foot  yesterday, 
and  got  along  with  difficulty.  Weather  \ery  much  the  same  as  yesterday.  Wiiul  from  the  northwest,  with 
driving  snow.  Dark  and  dreary.  Reached  cache  and  allowed  the  men  to  eat  the  moldy  bread  out  of  one 
of  the  bags.  We  ate  ravenously.  1 1.40,  started  back  with  load  consisting  of  two  of  the  barrels  of  the  Eng- 
lish cache,  cvc.  Fifty  mimites  in  crossing  from  the  ice-tbot  to  the  shore,  a  distance  of  about  50  yards  [about 
45"'].  Farther  on,  the  old  part  of  the  sledge,  whic  h  had  been  rei)airecl,  came  out  of  place.  A\'e  started  on 
^fter  lashing  it.  It  came  '-a  dark  and  clreary,and  everything  was  \  cry  obscure.  Reai  hed  huts  at  5'j  p.m. 
Wind  increased  to-night.  Suffering  all  day  a  great  cleal  with  my  knee.  Could  harcll\  walk.  To-morrow 
it  will  be  necessary  to  stay  in  cami)  ^"  re[)air  sledge.  (Ireat  discussion  to-night  on  the  subject  of  liking  of 
food,  especially  jiemmican. 

October  ^^.  —  X >z\)'  little  wind  to-day  though  overcast  and  snowing  lightly,  as  usual.  There  are  three  loads 
remaining' clown  in  Sabine,  but  the  sledge  reiiiaiiKil  in  c  amp  to-day  to  be  mended.  I  have  remained  in  bng 
all  day  on  account  of  lame  knee.  l!lo(  ks  of  snow  were  laid  011  the  niofaiid  in  ike  a  jierceptible  difference  in 
the  temiierature,  though  it  is  still  colj'  and  iinciomfortable  inside  here.  We  burn  blubber  lamp,  but  it  gi\cs  but 
little  light  and  no  heat.  The  discomforts  of  t'lis  life  are  iimiiiiierable,  .lud  would  be  very  hard  to  picture. 
Long  returned  this  evening  with  the  two  I'.skimcj.  Hiederbick  shot  one  seal — about  75  poiiiuiN  of  meat 
dressed — total  weight  of  seal  about  150  pounds.  Dog  biscuit  examined  today;  found  mostly  molciv ,  a 
great  disappomtinent  to  us.  Long  f  mnd  very  fair  weather  and  saw  half  a  dozen  seals  in  all.  Rum  issuecl 
to-night,  as  every  night  since  October  15. 

Octdlu-r  iG. — 4  a.  m.,  cooks  called.  7  a,  in.,  1!.  |l!arometer|  29.82  [757-4i"""].  Thermometer  below  zero 
[  —  17.8°  C.j  during  the  night.  7  a.  m.,  party  started  out  lor  Icjad.  I  remained  in  the  hut  with  a  lame  knee. 
The  party  reached  cache  at  9.30  and  started  back  at  10.30.  1.30  p.  m.,  party  suoted  [got?]  back.  They  had 
crossed  the  ic:e-foot  and  reached  within  about  two  mile>  of  camp  when  the  sledge  broke  clown.     The  runner 


s  ■$«»■■  n'l 


THE  LADY  KKANKIilN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


391 


gave  way  (that  is,  the  steel  shoe).  Klison  thinks  it  can  be  repaired  to-morrow.  Day  overcast,  with  little  or 
no  sun.  Long  and  the  Kskinio  went  out,  but  liave  not  yet  returned,  Teni|)erature  in  the  hut  this  morning 
after  lighting  lights  rose  to  31.8"  [  —  0.1°  C.  |.  During  the  day  it  wa  ,  iy°  (  —  7.2°C.l  at  one  time.  Lieutenant 
(Ireely  thinks  of  making  the  rations  last  until  March  i,  and  then  crossing  the  straits  with  10  ounces  of  bread, 
10  ounces  of  pemmican  and  tea.  In  the  meanlune  after  the  sledge  parties  return,  which  will  be  about  the 
end  of  the  present  month,  t'le  rations  will  be  between  6  and  7  ounces  bread,  4  ounces  of  meat,  or  a  little 
over,  and  some  vegetables;  between  1,3  ami  14  ounces  in  all.  It  remains  to  be  seen  whether  we  can  exist 
on  so  little.  Tliere  is  a  scarcity  of  everything,  fuel  as  mucii  as  anything  else.  We  hail  to-night  a  very 
animated,  not  to  say  warm,  discussion  on  the  subject  of  rations.  Lieutenant  dreely  announced  his  intention 
to  try  and  make  the  rations  last  until  Marcli  1.  'i'his  is  l)ased  on  the  su[)position  that  the  13  ounces 
referred  to  will  support  us  in  (-onsiderable  and  tolerable  health.  4^3  ounces  of  nieat,  between  6  and  7  of 
bread,  and  tne  vegetables  we  have,  and  other  things  distributeil.  The  butter  and  lard  are  not  included 
among  tiie  meats.  {.*-'ee  inventory  of  October  25  at  end  of  book.)  The  doctor  urged  that  a  great  objec- 
tion to  the  reductions  of  ration  was  that  our  strength  might  be  reduced  and  disease,  scurvy,  i^rc,  brought  on, 
and  when  too  late  we  would  find  it  impossible  to  recover.  I  remarked  that  the  general  view  taken  by  the 
parly,  as  far  as  I  could  get  at  it,  was  tlial  our  rations  should  bo  reduced  to  the  very  lowest  limit,  but  afterwards 
increased  enough,  if  necessary,  rather  than  the  contrary.  So  it  seems  to  be  fixed  upon  that  we  are  to  try  to 
make  out  on  our  food  until  March  1.  'i'hen  we  shall  try  to  cross  tlie  straits  on  10  ounces  ])emmican,  10  of 
bread  and  tea  included.  A  great  deal  was  said  on  the  subject  generally,  confineil  at  first  to  Lieutenant 
Clreely,  the  doctor,  an<l  myself,  but  afterwards  Rice,  Jewell,  Mrainaril,  and  others  joined  in  to  break  the  gloom 
and  throw  a  more  cheerful  light  on  the  subject.  Rice  read  newsjiaper  scraps  in  tlie  evening  from  the 
"Critic,"  &c.  liy  tliis  we  liave  gleaned  a  good  many  items  of  news.  We  are  all  in  remarkable  sjjirits  con- 
sidering our  circumstances.  Rice  i)rouglU  l)ack  the  Army  register,  and  to-day  the  sledge  party  came  across 
a  book  all  frozen  up  and  snow-covered,  which  seems  to  be  the  new  Army  Regulations.  Long  and  the 
Kskimo  saw  several  seals  to-day  but  got  none. 

Oitoher  27. — Cooks  called  5  a.  m.  6.40  a.  m.,  thermometer  33"  [  +  0.6"  C.]  in  the  hut;  U.  [Harometer], 
30.05  1763.20"""!.  'I'lie  men  worked  on  tlie  snow  wall  aroun<l  the  house  for  some  hours — the  outer  wall 
about  four  feet  1 1.2"'|  tVom  the  inner.  The  intervening  space  1>  to  be  filled  with  snow.  Corporal  [Sergeant) 
Llison  and  Schneider  went  down  and  fixed  tlie  sledge.  The  sledge  party  started  out  about  10  o'clock.  I 
started  some  time  after  them.  We  returned  with  the  sledge  and  lead  al)out  12.30.  .\te  ravenously  of  mokly 
dog-biscuit  this  morning;  suriirised  myself  by  the  manner  in  wliicli  I  ate  that  which  would  be  at  any  other 
time  almost  repulsive.  58  pounds  of  good  biscuit  have  been  found  in  a  barrel  of  1 10  i>ounds.  The  second 
barrel  of  the  two,  which  is  bread,  it  is  thought  may  be  good.  50  i)ounds  of  tliis  58  remain  on  hand.  The 
sledge  to-day  brought  up  two  barrels  of  the  Luglish  cache  and  a  lot  of  <  lotliing.  .\moiig  other  things  is 
the  coat  of  a  lieutenant  in  the  navy,  which  1  have  taken  possession  of.  Weather  to-day  overcast  and  foggy, 
and  ([uite  cold  and  dismal.  Among  the  clothing  are  two  mattresses,  a  pair  of  army  pants,  bloose,  shirts, 
drawers,  &c.  Also  a  number  of  miscellaneous  articles  of  dress  (supposi'd)  tiirown  ashore  at  the  time  of  the 
wreck  of  the  Proteus.  To-night  we  have  mutton  aiul  two  cans  of  salmon  for  supper — about  a  third  of  what 
would  be  nece-ssary  to  satisfy  the  appetite.  Tiiis  constant  hunger  is  a  m-serable  feeling,  and  goes  not  a  little 
ways  to  make  our  circumstances  more  dismal.  Still  the  parly  all  reni.iiii  in  good  spirits.  1  dread  next 
month,  however,  when  we  commence  a  still  farther  reduction.  How  often  my  thoughts  winder  liomoward 
to  the  dear  ones  there.  '   I  went  along  to-day  ami  helped  to  drag  back  the  sledge,  my  knee  being  better. 

Oitohi'r  28. —  Cooks  called  at  4  a.  m.  7  a.  m.,  li.  |ilarometer|  29.88  | /58.y4"'"'|.  Thermometer  38 
1+3-3°  ^'l-  Pledge  jjarty  left  at  7.30.  Morning  very  dark  antl  overcast,  with  heavy  fall  of  snow  and  light 
wind.  The  high  temperature  this  morning  was  while  the  lamps  were  burning.  The  usual  height  during  tlie 
day  was  about  29°  |  — 1.7°  C  |.  .At  noon  the  outside  temperature  was  reported  at  — 2"  [—18.9°  ('.|.  The 
(mean  memorandum)  |mininuimj  list  night  was  —  17.5"  |— 27.5"  C.|.  I  did  not  accompany  the  sledge  party 
on  account  of  my  knee.  Some  of  the  jiarty  came  in  at  3.15,  and  the  rest  about  15  minutes  later.  Tlie  sledge 
i)roke  ilown  again  about  three  miles  from  here.  The  party  encountered  violent  wiiul,  with  heavy  snowfall, 
which,  with  the  darkness,  made  their  trip  very  trying.  The  whale  boat  at  Sabine  (the  .Wirwluil)  has  been 
broken  up  fi)r  fiiel,  ami  part  of  her  w.is  brouglil  in  lo-ilay.  'I'he  remain<ler  is  all  that  iiow  remains  to  be 
brought  up  fnjni  Sabine.  t)tlier  setlions  of  the  sledge  gave  way.  This  life  is  miserable.  We  have  insuffi- 
cient sup])ly  of  everything.      Kven  the  blubber  will  support  but  one  poor  light,  and  that  hardly  for  the  winter. 


i  il 


•  1) 


i  ■! 


11 


'S 


392 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


We  must  rely  on  the  whale-boat  anil  the  barrel  staves  mostly  for  fuel,  the  alcohol  being  mostly  exhausted. 
Cold,  dampness,  darkness,  and  hunger  are  our  portion  every  day  and  all  day.  In  the  hut  here  one  has  to 
grope  around  in  the  darkness  to  find  everything  laid  down.  I.ong  went  out  to-iiay  as  yesterday,  but  witli  no 
success.  To-day  he  found  so  violent  a  wind  and  snow  storm  that  he  and  the  two  Eskimo  came  back. 
Henry  read  "A  Bad  Hoy  "  last  night,  and  Rice  finished  the  news|)aper  scraps.  To-night  we  have  Clay's 
letter  again  and  some  more  reading. 

October  29. — Hreakfast  at  7  a.  m.  of  boiled  meat,  hard  bread,  and  tea.  This  roast  beef  is  liked  very 
much,  which  is  more  than  can  be  said  of  tlie  corned  beef.  The  Castine  mutton  is  full  of  bones,  and  has 
excited  the  indignation  of  every  one.  When  issued  we  have  been  getting  6  ounces  of  it  each,  and  it  is  very 
trying,  when  getting  so  little,  to  find  a  large  fraction  of  it  small  bone.  The  barometer  at  7  a.  m.  this  morning 
was  30.03  [762.75"""].  Last  night  the  roof  dropped  [dripped]  somewhat.  Cor[)oral  [Sergeant]  Klison 
engaged  for  several  hours  in  mending  the  sleilge.  Most  of  the  rest  occupied  a  couple  hours  in  i)ringing 
sand  to  jiut  under  the  sleeping-bags.  Two  mattresses  and  old  clothes,  a  few  buffalo  coats,  blankets,  iVc, 
were  distributed  around.  I  drew  for  trie  second  mattress,  for  the  doctor  and  myself,  and  got  it.  'i'here  are 
only  two.  Lieutenant  (ireely  has  the  otlier.  Ciariliner  is  using  it  at  present,  as  well  as  liis  sleeping-bag. 
Occupied  some  time  this  morning  in  scratching  like  a  dog  in  the  place  where  the  moldy  dog-biscuit  were 
emptied.  Founil  a  few  crumbs  and  small  i)ieces,  and  ate  mold  and  all.  Weather  overcast  antl  snowing 
lightly.  Long  and  Frederik  |  Christiansen]  went  out  to  hunt  to-tlay,  but  got  nothing.  Long  fell  in  the  water. 
Ellis  went  out  afterwards  also  for  seals,  but  got  nothing.  Many  seals  have  been  .seen,  but  they  are  a  great 
ways  off,  and  there  is  a  great  de.al  of  o|)en  water.  Cold,  damiiness,  darkness,  ami  hunger  are  our  ilaily  and 
hourly  jjorlion.  We  now  get  about  one-fourth  what  we  could  eat  at  a  meal,  anil  this  limited  allowance  is 
to  he  much  farther  reduced  as  soon  as  the  sledging  is  done,  which  about  November  i. 

Ocli>l>(-r  T,o. — ("ooks  called  at  4  a.   m.     7  a.   m.,  barometer  29.81   [757.16' ].     8  a.  m.,  sledge  party 

started  for  whale-boat,  twelve  of  us  in  all — Mrainard,  Rice,  and  myself,  iVc.  We  had  eacii  issued  two  rations 
of  lime-juice  pemmican  for  hreakfast — those  of  the  party.  Fmmd  high  tide,  but  got  along  very  well. 
Morning  gloomy  ami  overcast,  and  sky  obscured  by  luow  clouds,  witli  a  brisk  wind  from  the  west,  ^\'e 
could  hardly  see  the  way;  lost  it  in  several  places.  Old  route  covered  up  with  simw-drifts.  Reached  the 
whale-boat  in  two  and  a  half  hours,  and  delayed  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  breaking  her  up  and  loading 
her  upon  the  sledge.  The  doctor  joined  the  |)arty  after  starting  back — also  Hrainard.  Came  along  home 
very  well.  Reached  ipiarters  at  ly^  p.  m.  Rum  issued  after  getting  in.  Hereafter  we  shall  have  it  only 
on  Sundays.  After  getting  in  spent  half  an  hour  in  scratching  in  the  snow  for  the  crumbs  of  moldy  dog- 
biscuit.  This  (log  biscuit,  the  moldy,  has  a  bad  effect  ui)on  me.  'J'his  evening  Mender  killed  a  blue  fox 
near  the  house.  He  struck  him  over  tiie  head  with  his  fist.  Breakfast  tiiis  morning  consisted  of  4  ounces 
01  sausage,  4  of  hard  bread  and  tea,  and  2  ounces  of  pemmican  for  tiic  sledge  party.  This  is  about  double 
what  the  ration  is  to  be  reduced  to  in  a  few  days.  Kven  now  we  arc  always  hungry,  with  a  constant  long- 
ing for  food.  Supper  to-night  consisted  of  4  (junces  of  pemmican  anil  four  of  hard  breail  and  tea — two 
cups. 

Tile  following  is  tiie  schedule  of  daily  rations  proi)oseil  until  March  i  next:  4^  ounces  of  meat,  con- 
sisting of  roast  beef,  corned  beef,  seal,  peiumic.in,  or  bacon,  {j^^^  of  extract  of  meat,  ii,**,,-  butter,  ,'0%  lard, 
j-JV  soup,  6,\  bread,  ^%q  rice;  12  pounds  are  ke[)l  over  for  Thanksgiving  and  Christmas.  Peas,  ,'-„-j, ;  corn, 
iVii ;  carrots, -i^jf ;  raisins  ,-';,",.  I'lxlra  allowamc  Thanksgiving  and  Christmas.  Pickles,  ,yj,  ;  ,',|^j,- milk  ;  ex- 
tract coffee,  //„  ;  tomatoes,  |J„'u  ;  exiracl  chocolate,  i',;',  ;  potatoes,  3-,';,  ;  dog-biscuit,  i**,,  oz.  This  for  120 
days  from  November  r. 

4.25  -f  1.01=5.26  "meat."  .09  +  .22  -|-  .19  -f-  .40=  .90  "vegetables"  (life  sustaining).  6.4  -]-.8  [  =  ] 
7.20,  bread. 

5.26 
.90 

.64 


6.99  -|-  7. 20=13. ro  ['4-'9|- 
Lor.;;    nd  tie    a  1  natives  went  up  again  to  Ri<  c  Strait. 

(IfoOer  31. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.82  1757.41"""],     Fox  came  round  this  morning  at  7  a.m.,  but  it 
was  100  dark  to  sho^i  with  the  riHe,  and  the  siiot-gun  is  not  in  order. 


'•Wf  ■ 


Jit! 


TUF,  I.ADV  FHANKLIN  HAY  KXPEDFTTON. 


393 


Sledge  party  got  off  at  7.50  a.  in.  Readied  load  just  beyond  tide  crack,  in  two  and  a  iialf  hours;  got 
back  at  12.10  J)  111.  Clear  and  moderately  calm,  'riiermometer  after  breakfast  +  2  [—16,7°  C.|.  (\[ean 
mem(/raiidum)  |mininuim|  —40  |  —  40.0°  C'.|.  \'ery  high  tide  to-day.  To-morrow  our  reduction  of  rations 
commences.  Whether  we  can  live  on  su<  h  a  driblet  of  food  remains  to  be  seen.  We  are  now  constantly 
hungry,  and  the  constant  thought  and  talk  run  on  food,  dishes  of  all  kinds,  and  what  we  have  eaten,  and 
wiiat  we  hoiie  to  eat  when  we  reach  civilization.  I  have  a  constant  longing  for  food.  Anything  to  t'lU  nie 
up.  (lod!  what  a  life,  A  few  crumbs  of  hard  bread  taste  delicious.  One  imagines  one  thing  and  another 
another.  I  spend  much  time  in  thinking  (>(  bills  of  fare,  ('orpoiaj  | Sergeant]  P^lison  is  to  have  a  Hudson 
Bay  sledge  made  by  to-morrow,  and  Rice,  l.inn,  Klisfjii,  and  Frederick  are  to  start  on  it  afterward  for  fape 
Isal)ella  for  the  four  boxes  (144  pounds)  of  English  preserved  meat  there.  Tiiey  are  to  have  an  increase 
of  rations  during  their  absence,  which  Rice  puts  at  eight  days.  The  huntinr;  \y.\iij  l.c^c  a  slight  increase  of 
rations  during  their  absence.  I  hope  to  (lod  they  have  got  sometliing.  How  ol"ten  my  thoughts  wander 
home,  and  1  recall  my  dear  father,  mother,  and  the  family  generally — then  comes  the  family  dishes  of  all 
kinds.  Numb  fingers  an<l  want  of  light — 1  can  write  no  nior<;.  The  sledge  is  to  be  niade  out  of  the  timbers 
of  the  boat.  We  now  iiave  everytliing  from  Sabine  and  vicinity,  and  are  very  glad  of  it.  No  sledging  any 
more,  exce))ting  Rice's  trip,  until  spring,  should  we  live  to  see  it. 

Thursday,  Noviiiiber  i. — (^ooks  calle'!  at  5  a.  m.  Breakfast  consisted  of  a  handful  of  pieces  of  hard 
bread  and  a  piece  of  butter  ab;v.:i-  as  big  as  one's  finger.     About  as  hungry  after  as  before  eating. 

7  n.  m.,  barometer  29.^17  [753.60"""]  (anerriik)  [aiKjroid].  Temperature  inside  about  30  |  — i.i°('.]. 
Sky  overcast  with  heavy  snow  clouds  as  usual,  with  light  wind  from  the  northwest.  This  miserable  weather 
we  have  had  since  our  arrival  here — not  one  clear  calm  day.  Hudson  Bay  sledge  a  failure,  and  P'.lison  has 
been  working  all  day  on  the  small  sledge,  which  has  been  made  narrower  and  shorter.  This  is  the  sledge 
that  the  men  call  the  man-killer.  I'rejiarations  under  way  during  the  day  for  the  departure  of  the  party  for 
Isabella  to-morrow.  They  are  to  be  gone  eight  days  and  expect  to  bring  back  at  least  100  pounds  of  the 
144  pounds  of  meat  there.  About  noon  I  went  out  and  walked  around  for  one  and  a  half  hours.  About 
five  pounds  of  English  potatoes  are  found  moldy  and  unfit  for  use.  I  tilled  my  stomach  with  these,  bad 
as  they  are,  and  take  the  risk  of  their  making  me  sick.  Feel  a  constant  longing  sensation  for  food.  C'lod ! 
what  a  miserable  life.  One's  hand  and  feet  are  constantly  cold,  and  we  live  in  darkness  and  danijiness. 
A  white  fox  shot  this  morning  by  Schneider.  We  ate  the  entrails  as  well  as  everything  else  of  the  animal. 
Lamps  lighted  for  supper  at  2.30  p.  m.  Supper  consists  of  chocolate  and  a  small  piece  of  roast  beef,  with 
a  handful  of  crackers. 

Noveml'cr  2. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.71  [754.62"""].  Day  like  all  the  rest  since  we  have  been  here; 
sky  hidden,  with  snow  clouds  with  light  northwest  wind,  dark  and  cold.  Rice,  Finn,  Flison,  and  Fred- 
erick got  off  with  the  sledge  and  load  about  8.30  a.  m.  for  Isabella.  We  trust  they  will  be  fortunate  and 
get  the  meat,  and  thus  iii'  ease  our  poor  driblet  of  food.  Some  time  after  breakfast  Hrainard  went  down  to 
the  landing  about  half  a  le  from  here  and  shot  a  blue  fox,  weight  about  ^y,  pounds.  Some  time  after 
\var(!s  Ralston  shot  a  wl  fox  quite  near  the  house,  weight  5  pounds.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was  very 
sick  last  night  and  in  gr  .  pain,  so  as  to  nearly  make  him  faint.  It  was  a  strain  of  the  private  parts,  brought 
on  by  colli  and  sledgiiv  -^p.  We  now  eat  much  of  our  meat  cold,  having  nothing  hot  but  the  tea.  'I'he 
stoves  were  put  in  use  Inr  the  first  time  and  proved  ijuite  satisfactory.  Only  half  a  barrel  stave  was  used 
up  by  the  two  stoves.  i  a  little  pine  wood  for  kindling.  It  will  be  necessary  to  use  wood  for  the  next 
three  months.  We  h  but  little  alcohol  left.  It  is  decided,  however,  10  use  but  one  stove  hereafter,  each 
mess  cooking  in  ti  The  stove  consists  of  a  simi)le  cylinder  of  sheet  iron,  tlie  pot  being  placed  on  tup. 

We  have  had  read,  g  so  far  every  night.  "A  Had  lioy,''  "  Two  on  a  Tower,"  anil  the  Bible  have  been  read 
so  far.  We  have  I'i  kvvick,  and  I  have  some  books  of  "  McCarthy's  History  of  Our  Own  Times."  We 
also  have  NordenskioM,  Kane,  Hayes,  and  Nares,  with  which  we  are  all  quite  familiar,  however.  (Mean 
memorandum)  [minim  im  reading]  of  the  thermometer,  between  yesterday  afternoon  and  this  afternoon, 
—9.2°  ]  — 22.9°C.|  (outside).  Most  of  as  took  an  hour  or  more  exercise  to-day,  mostly  in  cutting  and 
carrying  snow  blocks. 

NpTfiii/'i-r  ^. — 7  a.  ni.,  barometer  29.67  [753.60"'"'].  We  got  through  breakfast  at  7  a.m.  The  other 
mess  cooked  first  and  \,  •  afterwards.  Very  little  wood  vised.  Indeed,  nothing  was  cooked  but  a  cu[)  of  tea 
to  each  man.  Sup[)e:  1.;  ,t  night  consisled  of  tea,  a  little  bread,  and  some  i)ieces  of  canned  roast  beef.  Break- 
fast this  morning  of  a  few  mouthfuls  of  h;ird  brear.  and  a  little  piece  of  butter,  about  as  large  as  one's  finger. 
I  had  some  moldy  potatoes,  which  I  had  at  my  breakfast.     They  are  spoiled  and  moldy  all  the  way  through. 


Hi 


i 


( I 


:i!i 


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I 


394 


THE  LADY  PKANKLIN  BAY  KXI'KDITION. 


but  anything  that  fills  the  stomarh  is  grateful.  Cut  out  and  brought  in  some  snow  blocks  to-day,  as  yesterday, 
for  exercise;  they  are  to  build  our  house.  Long  returned  about  noon,  by  himself,  with  the  joyful  news  that 
the  hunters  had  got  another  seal;  this  one,  shot  by  Long,  must  weigh  about  lo  pounds  more  than  the  last, 
or  about  70  ])ounds  of  meat.  Thermometer  to-day,  at  1  o'clock,  —13°  [  —  25.0°  C.J;  (mean  memorandinn) 
[minimum!  S'l'ii'i-'  yesterday  the  same.  Clear  sky  to-day  for  the  first  time,  with  alight  northwest  wind.  Our 
constant  tojiic  of  conversation  is  food — what  we  have  eaten,  and  what  we  expect  to  eat  when  we  get  b.ick 
to  America.  Fingers  and  toes  cold  nearly  all  the  time;  tem|)erature  here  in  the  house  about  freezing 
point  [0.0"  C.|  all  the  time.  God!  this  miserable  existence  cannot  be  conceived  of  by  any  one  but  ourselves. 
Constant  thoughts  of  home  and  dear  ones  there.  Long  saw  two  fresh  bear  tracks  near  his  tent;  they  came 
from  Hache  Island.  Sup|)er  to-night  consists  of  one  cupof  tea,  4  ounces  of  corned-beef,  and  about  the  same 
of  hard  bread.  Smoke  from  the  stove  is  intolerable,  the  only  outlet  being  a  small  hole  in  the  boat  overhead. 
We  shall  jjiobably  improvise  some  kind  of  a  chimney  or  stove-pipe. 

Niivi-mhcr  \  [Siiiii/ijy). — Harometer  29.61  [752.08"""]  Long  went  back  this  morning,  starting  about 
8  o'clock.  Breakfast  of  hard  bread,  stew,  and  tea.  For  dinner  we  have  a  seal  stew  and  tea.  These  dishes 
taste  deliciousl)  ;  the  only  trouble  is  there  is  not  enough.  To-day  being  Sunday,  we  have  a  half  gill  of 
rum  each,  and  a  ijuarter  of  a  lemon.  Some  work  done  on  the  snow  house  for  the  commissary.  It  is  just 
south  and  adjoining  our  hut.  Sky  clear  this  morning  and  now.  Afterwards  it  came  on  fogg)'.  Dinner 
consisted  of  a  stew  of  fox,  seal  cracklings,  onion,  onion  i)ickles,  and,?,  little  hard  bread,  in  all  aboiit  a  quar- 
ter as  much  as  one  could  eat.  We  all  pronounced  it  excellent,  <lelicious,  and  something  ])articulatly  nice. 
Oh!  for  all  the  turkey  and  bread  we  could  eat!  In  the  evening  we  had  a  general  discussion  on  the  subject 
of  the  proposed  dinner  in  Washington  on  our  return.  The  dinner  is  not  to  cost  more  than  .$5,  and  i>r. 
Pavy,  Rice,  and  Schneider  are  named  as  the  committee  to  make  the  bill  of  fare,  iS:c.  A  French  restaurant, 
possibly  Hayes'  Hotel  [opposite  Willard'sJ,  is  the  place  named. 

Novemhei  5. — 8  a.  m.,  barometer  29.60  [ysi.S-j"''"]-  To-day  a  canvas  finally  was  fixed  above  the 
stove,  but  it  is  not  perfect,  and  the  stove  still  smokes.  Temperature  this  afternoon  —9  [  —  22.8°  C.j. 
(Mean  temperature)  [minimum j  since  yesterday,  —.20°  [  —  28,9°  C.j.  Calm  and  clear  most  of  the  day.  It 
is  getting  darker  daily;  sun  disappeared  October  25,  and  reappears  l'"ebruary  16,  but  being  on  the  north 
side  of  a  high  ridge  of  rocks,  its  actual  disappearance  will  be  much  longer.  A  good  deal  of  fi>g  all  day. 
The  party  seem  in  excellent  spirits;  conversation  mostly  about  food  and  dishes.  Hreakfast  this  morning 
consisted  of  a  little  piece  of  lard,  and  a  few  spoonsful  of  hard  bread.  Sui;per  to  night  of  tea,  4j/jf  ounces  of 
pjiglish  meat,  and  a  little  hard  bread.  The  hard  bread  is  issued  for  n'glu  and  for  morniig,  and  it  is  with 
great  difticulty  that  one  restrains  himself  from  eating  up  his  morning  bread  at  nij:!'!.  Temperature  in  tiie 
hut,  during  most  of  the  day,  about  30  to  32  [  —  1.1°  to  0.0°  C.].  The  commissary  store-house  was  finished 
to-day,  built  of  snow  covered  with  canvas. 


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a.  Wail  of  snow  blocks. 

l>.  Spate  liiled  with  snow. 

( .  Wall  of  sno^v  bliicifs. 

(/.  Wall  of  rocks. 

e.  Rice's  ':leeping-bag. 

/.  Sleeping-bag  ot  Israel.  Jewell,  and  Gardiner. 

g.  Sleeping-bag  of  I.ieuteriant  Greely. 

h.  Sleeping-bag  of  (  toss.  Hemler,  and  Schneider. 


I.  Sleepinp-bag  of  llrainard,  Frederick  and  /.  I. inn,  Ellscn,  and  Ellis. 

\\hislcr.  y.  Aisle. 

J.  Lieut.  K.  [Kislingburyl,  I'rederik,  [Chris-  r.  Rear. 

tiansen].  Jans  I/ens],  and  |in|  s.  <'oniniissary  store-house  (i  and  r  built  of 

/.  Ralston,  Connell.  and  liciiry.  snow). 

w.  Dr.  I".  [Pavyl.  si.  Stove. 

II.  |l.ieut.|  1. -d  ll.ockwood],  Salor,  Bie- j:k.  Hlubber-lanip. 

ilerbick,  and  Long. 


The  building  is  18  by  24feet  [about  5.5  by  7.3"'|  in  the  clear.  The  space  (>  is  about  four  feet  [1.2°']. 
Over  (/  extends  the  whale-boat,  from  each  side  of  which  to  the  wall  the  space  overhead  is  covered  with 
canvas;  over  all  light  blocks  of  snow.     Oars,  «S:c.,  a.xtend  from  the  boat  to  the  ^^'all  and  support  the  can\as, 


THK  l-ADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


395 


&c.  The  stove  seems  to  burn  at  the  rate  of  two  barrels  a  week.  Most  of  the  weeks,  however,  nothing  is 
cooked  but  the  tea,  or  coffee,  or  chocolate.  Breakfast  this  morning  about  7  o'clock,  and  supper  at  j. 
Breakfast  has  been  a  little  earlier  heretofore.  Reatling  every  evening  for  about  two  hours — that  is,  from 
about  5  to  7 — when  we  go  to  sleep. 

AWembi-r  G. — 7  a.m.,  barometer  29.69  [753.86"'"'].  Brisk  wind  from  the  northwest.  Noon,  ther- 
mometer observation  —11°  [  —  23.9°  C.].  (Mean  meniorantlum)  [minimum]  since  yesterday,  —21° 
[  —  29.4"  t'.J.  To-day  the  commissary  store-house  was  finished,  and  the  vestibule  or  tunnel  roofed  over.  I 
occupied  all  the  forenoon  in  sewing  on  my  sleeping-bag.  I  did  not  go  out  to  work,  and  only  took  a  run  of 
a  few  minutes  for  exercise.  Stew  this  morning  of  tomatoes  and  this  evening  of  seal  meat.  Animated  con- 
versation all  Cdy  on  the  subject  of  food,  various  dishes,  &c.  The  doctor  recommends  a  cheap  dish  of  egg 
tripe  made  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  1  oz.  butter,  cream,  flour,  pepper,  and  salt.  We  have  a  constant  longing  for 
food.  A  little  blubber  was  put  in  the  stew  this  evening.  We  could  all  eat  blubber  now  aU  libitum,  entrails 
of  any  kind,  or  anything  else. 

November  7. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.72  [754.87"""].  Cold  wind  blowing  this  morning.  Breakfast,  tea 
and  stew  of  carrots,  hard  bread,  and  potatoes.  Supper  of  roast  beef,  tea,  and  hard  bread.  Hard  bread  is 
issued  for  night  and  morning,  and  it  requires  great  self-restraint  to  refrain  from  eating  up  the  morning  allow- 
ance. Some  work  done  to-day  on  the  out-house,  but  the  wind  was  so  cold  that  it  was  very  cold  work.  I 
carried  a  dozen  snow  blocks.  About  12  o'clock  Frederik,  Eskimo,  came  in,  and  when  first  seen  we  had 
many  fears  of  accident  to  the  parties  out;  but  he  came  immediately  with  the  message  from  T  or.<T  to  the 
ertect  that  he  would  come  in  to-morrow,  there  being  no  chance  of  getting  seals.  We  start  u,  '•  o.orrow 
with  the  sledge  (eight  of  us)  to  bring  in  the  tent,  &:c.  Supper  about  3  o'clock.  Stove  lighted  ai  2i-<  every 
day  now.  The  two  messes  cook  in  turn,  each  cook  alternating  in  cooking  first.  Brainard  found  to-day,  by 
actual  weighing,  that  we  have  290  pounds  of  seal  blul)bcr  on  hand.  This  is  very  gratifying.  We  are  all  in 
excellent  spirits  and  get  along  very  well  so  far  on  starvation  rations.  It  is  quite  surprising.  I  cut  up  my 
small  allovvfance  >  f  bread  to-night  and  i)oured  a  little  tea  in  to  soften  it.  The  meat  I  heat  up  in  the  same 
way.     The  (  ■ii'^  of  meat  are  tiiawed  out  by  being  kept  in  the  sleejjing  bags  during  the  day. 

Xovcmber  S. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.87  [758.68"""].  (J!ooks  called  at  4  a.  m.  Tarty  started  for  straits 
at  7.10  a.  m.  Light  northwest  wind.  Very  severe  trip,  buffered  severely  during  the  day  from  cold  hands 
and  feet.  Thermometer  during  my  absence,  —25  to  —31  [  —  31.7  to  —35.0°  C.J.  The  party  who  went  up 
consisted  of  myself,  Brainard,  Dr.  Pavy,  ^Vhisler,  Ellis,  Jewell,  Salor,  and  Frederik,  Eskimo.  Three  and  a 
half  hours  occupied  in  going  and  four  and  a  quarter  in  returning.  Reached  hut  again  on  return  at  3.15 
jj.  rn.  Sledge  traveling  on  rations  reduced  like  ours  is  a  very  serious  matter,  but  we  stood  the  trip  well. 
Long  and  Jans  [Jens]  cauie  back  with  us.  ^\'e  brought  tent,  sleei)ing-bag,  &:c.  Long  only  shot  one  seal 
on  this  last  visit.  Shortly  after  our  return,  and  after  our  mess  had  finished  su[)per,  Biederbick  called  attention 
to  some  no^se  heard  outside.  We  thought  it  was  a  bear.  It  was  called  aloud  to  find  out  who  was  outside, 
and  Schneider  was  the  only  one  out.  Biederbick  then  went  out,  and  in  going  on  said  that  he  saw  some  one 
going  out  of  the  commissary  store-house,  and  that  the  covering  of  the  door  was  removed.  I  and  others 
immediately  noticed  this  on  coming  in.  Schneider  is  suspected  of  being  the  man,  and  has  done  nothing 
but  his  simple  denial  to  prove  the  untruthfulne.ss  of  the  charge.  Most  of  the  party  seem  to  think  that 
Schneider  is  the  guilty  one.  Supper  to-night  of  tea,  half  a  biscuit,  and  half  the  8  ounces  of  English  meat 
allowed  the  sledge  party  this  morning.  Weather  overcast  and  threatening  snow  all  day.  Those  who  wished 
It  were  issued  the  Sunday  rations  of  rum  to-night.  Those  of  the  sledge  party  thus  got  two  rations,  one  gill; 
those  of  them  who  wished  it. 

Ntn'cmber  () — Cooks  called  at  6  a.  m.  7  a.m.,  barometer  29.95  [760.72"""].  Calm  and  somewhat 
clearallday.  Some  little  work  done  outsuie.  At  noon  observation,  temperature  —  23.5  [  — 3o.8''C.].  (Mean 
memorandum)  [minimum]  since  yesterday  ncjon,  —30  [  — 34.4°C.].  Lowest  observations  in  the  hut  to-day, 
+  14.5  [ — 9.7°  C],  which  was  when  the  cook  got  up  this  morning.  In  the  afternoon  before  dinner  it  was 
+  24  [  —  4.4°  C.j.  It  is  so  cold  in  here  tiiat  one  cannot  expose  his  hantls  without  discomfort.  Tiie  hut  is 
not  yet  (juite  finished,  the  outer  walls  being  incomplete.  Rice  and  party  have  not  come,  though  dinner  was 
put  off  until  3.30.  For  dinner  we  had  tea.  a  spoonful  of  English  meat,  and  a  handful  of  hard  bread.  Break- 
fast was  chocolate,  a  little  piece  of  butter,  and  a  little  bread.  One  is  more  hungry  when  he  gets  through 
these  meals  than  before.  To-day  1  tbund  in  the  old  commissary  storehouse  a  milk  can  opened,  though  none 
of  the  contents  were  gone.  It  was  hidden  in  the  corner,  bender  identified  the  knife  used  as  that  of 
Schneider's.      Uid   some  sewing  on   my  slecping-ba;;  to-day.      1  he  conversation  is  constantly  (jn  the  subject 


1  il 

■1     I 


« 


390 


THK  LADY   FUANKLIN  I5AV   KXI'KDITION. 


fl 


of  food.  l.ieutLMiaiU  Circcly  read  McCarlliy's  liistor)  l.isi  nij^Iu  instead  of  myself;  I  was  tired  and  felt  indis- 
posed. This  maj^azine,  with  liililc,  Pickwick,  and  Peek's  Pad  Piov.  now  coniiirise  our  nightly  reading. 
Among  our  many  discomfort:;  we  are  afllic  led  at  ea<  h  meal  with  dense  \nhnnes  of  smoke  nearly  suffocating, 
and  very  trying  on  tlie  eyes. 

Hill  of  I'ari-  for  nucl:  coiiiiiii'iiiini;  A'lirriii/iri-  A'. 

Nov.    S.  lircakfast,  rice  and  tea;  dinner,  corned  lieef  ami  lea. 
Nov.    9.  lireakfa.sl,  butter  and  hard  hread ;  dinner,  Knj;lisli  lieef  ami  lea. 
Nov.  lo.   Ilreakfast,  ve^elable  simp,  exlrael  meat,  and  lea;  dinner,  seal  slew. 
Nov.  II.   lireakfa.sl,  slew  n(  hard  bread,  raisins,  l^ird,  and  niilK  ;  dinner,  roast  heel. 
Nov.   12.   Ilreakf.ist,  chocolate,  hnller,  anil  bread;  dinner,  I'.nnlish  meal. 
Nov.  I  \.   Iireakfast,  vej;elable  .slew  with  meat  exlrael;  diiiiier,  seal  sUw . 
Nov.  14.  Breakfast,  colTee,  bread,  and  lard  ;  dimier,  Knjjiish  meal. 
Three  ijuarter  ounces  bre.ad;  the  three  ounces  lo  make  up  the  7 '4  ounces  beinj,'  put  in  the  slew. 

AWrm/'cr  \o. — Rice  came  in  suddenly  about  midnight,  or  a  little  hetore,  last  night.  He  reported 
different  disastrous  news:  That  he  and  the  party,  Klison,  I, inn,  and  Frederick,  had  got  along  (|uite  well  for 
some  days,  but  that  Kliscjii  suffered  a  great  deal  from  cold,  crossing  from  Eskimo  Point  to  Cajjc  Isabella, 
and  soon  showed  signs  of  giving  out.  However,  they  kept  on,  reached  Isabella,  got  the  144  i)oimds  of  meat 
and  started  back.  On  the  way  l);ick  ]'',lison  became  worse  and  was  unable  to  drag,  and  hardly  ai)le  to  walk. 
They  let  him  walk  along  behind,  but  Kli.son  became  worse  and  worse,  and  soon  froze  his  feet,  hands,  and 
nose.  On  reaching  the  snow  slope  between  Rossc  l>ay  and  the  little  bay  on  the  other  side  of  tlu'  neck  of 
land,  they  were  unable  to  pull  their  sledge  up  the  grade,  and  Rice  came  f)n  for  assistance,  leaving  the  other 
three  men  behind — Elisoii  very  bad.  A  relief  party  was  immedi:itely  organized;  myself,  Or.  Pavy,  IJrainard, 
Jewell,  Fllis,  Schneider,  and  the  two  Fskimo.  Hrainard  starteil  with  Krederik  [Christiansen  |  and  a  suj)- 
ply  of  liijuor,  &c.,  at  4.30  a.  m.  We  had  breakfast  shortly  before,  and  at  6.20  a.  m.  the  main  party  started. 
It  was  very  dark  ;uid  we  floundered  in  the  snow  for  some  time,  losing  the  trail  several  times.  Reached 
Long's  Point  at  noon,  and  kept  on  down  Rice  Strait  with  a  severe  gale  blowing.  Reached  our  old  camp 
at  the  farther  side  in  three  hours  more.  About  here  1  '.'xpecteil  to  meet  JJrainard  and  I'"rei!erik  [Christian- 
sen] with  the  two  well  men  on  their  way  back,  but  seeii.^  n.ithing  of  them  we  kept  on  in  the  increasing 
gloom.  It  blew  hard  and  was  very  cold.  In  aiiout  two  iiours  we  perceived  Prainard  and  Frederik 
(Christiansen)  coming  to  meet  us.  They  reported  that  the  three  men  were  unable  to  do  anything  for  them- 
sc'v  IS,  and  were  lying  under  iheir  canvas  sail  with  little  or  nothing  to  eat — that  Elison  was  in  a  very  l)ad 
way.  Rice  had  reported  Eli.son  unable  to  live,  and  I  was  surprised  to  find  him  still  alive.  He  could  not 
hola  'fiis  water  and  urinated  constantly  in  his  sleeping-bag.  We  kept  on  until  6.10  p.  m.,  when,  having 
visited  the  old  camp  on  the  farther  side  of  Rosse  Pay,  we  halted  and  pitthed  the  tent,  and  after  rum,  bread, 
bacon,  and  tea  were  served,  got  into  the  sleeping-bags.  We  had  three  three-man  slee|)ing-bags  on  the 
sledge  and  a  single-man  Iiag.  We  got  to  bed  in  the  darkness  as  best  we  could — Prainard,  Jewell,  and  I 
slept  in  one  bag,  the  doctor  in  the  single  bag,  and  the  othei-  four  in  the  other  bag — about  9  o'clock  p.  m.  We 
had  a  little  piece  of  cr.ndle,  but  it  only  sutficed  for  sii|iper. 

November  1 1. — 4  a.  m.,  got  breakfast  in  the  darkness  as  best  we  could,  and  then  hail  a  most  uncom- 
fortable time  in  trying  to  get  up  frozen  foot-gear.  About  5.30  a.  m.,  Prainard  ami  Frederik  [Christiansen] 
got  off  for  the  jjarty ;  we  followed  at  8  o'clock,  leaving  the  tent  standing.  Reached  the  poor  fellows  one 
hour  afterwards.  Prainard  had  got  some  breakfast  ready  for  them,  using  our  rations.  We  had  only  brought 
along  some  two  days'  rations  for  eight  men.  Here  we  had  to  feed  eleven  men.  Just  got  Elisor,  in  the  sand- 
bag and  put  him  on  the  emjjty  sledge  and  started  on  return  at  9.30  a.  m.  Brainard  cooked  between  two 
rocks  protected  from  the  wind.  Reached  the  tent  with  our  sick  men  in  about  an  hour,  and  at  10.40  had 
the  tent  packed  and  started  again  on  return,  (lot  along  quite  well,  eight  of  us  pulling.  Linn  and  Frederick, 
much  broken  up,  had  started  for  the  hut  at  9.30  to  go  through  by  themselves.  They  soon  got  ahead 
of  us.  Reached  the  farther  side  of  the  bay  in  ;d)out  three  and  a  half  hour.s — very  tired.  Kej)!  on  up  the 
strait,  and  at  5  o'clock  p.  m.  stopped  at  Long's  Point  and  i)itched  tent  and  ate  supper  of  b.icon,  hard 
bread,  and  tea.  The  rum  was  almost  all  i;one — had  leaked  out  this  side.  Our  meat  consisted  of  bacon  and 
English  roast  Iieef.  No  jjotatoes  nor  anyihing  else.  At  S  p.  m.  got  started  again,  .and  the  moon  shining 
brightly  we  got  along  very  well.-    Our  meal  exhauslL,!  our  provisions,  and  we  had  nothing  left.     Elison  was 


TIJK  LADY  FUANKLIN  I»AY   HXPBDITIOX. 


397 


suffering  ^ruatly,  and  I'vcrytliing  induced  me  U>  try  ;ind  make  the  luit  without  stujiping  over.  We  had  a 
lung,  Mvere  trip  to  tlie  hut.  W  lien  near  it  I  went  ahead  and  roused  up  tiie  main  party.  Ciut  in  with  EUson 
at  2.20.     'remperature — found  it  after  {getting  in — 34.5°  1—36.9°  (  .|. 

Novi'inlifr  12. — (ISarometer  at  S  a.  m.,  ."(j.yS  |  —  75().4o"""|).  '.20  a.  ni.,  relief  party  got  in.  We  pre- 
ledeil  them  aljout  ten  miiuite.s.  We  were  all  e.xhausled  and  are  still  ijuite  tired.  I, inn  and  I'Vedcrick  got 
in  about  5  or  6  p.  in.  on  the  iith.  Teniperature  this  at'ternocjn,  —24  |— 31.1"  ('.|.  s\'e  encountered  no 
wind  after  leaving  the  strait.  Nothing  new  during  djsen<e.  Ate  ravenously  at"ter  getting  in.  Ate  morn- 
ing and  evening  allowaiK  e  of  liread,  and  had  no  bread  for  dinner.  |)inner  at  2  p.  m.  ((insisted  for  me  only 
of  a  mouthful  of  English  meat  ar.d  tea.  (iod  knows  yet  whetiier  l'!lison's  feet  will  iiaxe  to  be  cut  off  or 
not.  He  is  now  suffering  a  good  de;'l  and  his  condition  is  desperate.  I  sent  word  by  I, inn  that  I  would 
try  and  make  Long  I'oint  and  come  in  to-day,  and  so,  though  a  hel|)ing  [larty  was  organized,  and  were  to 
start  by  moonlight  for  our  assistance,  no  one  had  started  out.  \'ery  hard  tri|i,  and  but  one  instance  of  what 
men  can  do  when  necessity  comjjels. 

NoTcmbrr  13. — Kind  myself  (|uite  stiff  to-day  and  my  iieel  strings  very  sore.  Have  remained  in  the 
sleeping-bag  all  day.  Breakfast  this  morning  of  iiard  bread  and  rice  made  into  a  stew,  with  tea.  Supper 
to-night  consisted  of  a  stew  of  fox,  seal  blubber,  seal  hide,  llavored  with  o::ion.  It  was  very  nice  ai'.vl  ([uite 
tilling,  comparatively  speaking.  'I'emijerature  about  noon,  — 27  |— 32-8°  C.|;  (mean  memorandum)  |mini- 
mum],  -'^},  \  -3(^.1°  C.].  It  is  yet  unknown  whether  Klison  will  hjse  his  feet  or  not.  If  tl;e)  lu've  to  be 
am[)Utated  it  will  probaiily  end  his  life,  as  a  small  pocket  case  of  instruments  is  all  the  d(i(  tor  has,  and  of 
course  our  miserable  surroundings  would  jjut  tiie  case  in  its  most  luifavorable  light,  liiedeiimk  shot  a  fox 
to-day — fne  and  a  half  pounds  dressed — white,  'i'hese  fo.xes  are  e.\tra,  and  this  one  gives  us  fox  for  Thanks- 
giving Day.  Eating  and  dishes  form  the  chief  subject  of  conversation.  Breakfast  in  the  morning  consists 
of  lard,  hard  bread,  and  coffee.      I  have  saved  all  my  night's  hard  bread,  though  with  great  ctil'ort, 

November  14. — Breakfast  of  hard  bread,  lard,  and  cofilee.  I  saved  all  my  hard  bread  issued  last  night 
for  two  meals,  and  so  feel  somewhat  satLstied  this  morning.  Supper  of  tea,  hard  bread,  and  English  beef. 
The  tea  only  was  heated.  One  tries  everything  to  make  these  meals  seem  to  go  farther.  The  stew,  when  we 
have  one,  generally  comes  before  the  tea.  Sometimes  I  eat  my  cold  meat  at  once,  with  or  w  ithout  the  bread. 
Sometimes  I  keep  them  until  tht;  tea  comes.  Sometnnes  I  [lour  hot  tea  on  my  cold  meat  or  bread  or  on 
both.  All  of  no  avail.  V'ou  cannot  make  a  mouthful  of  food  fdl  the  stomach.  Our  talk  is  incessantly 
about  food  or  dishes,  'i'hermometer  at  noon,  — 1<;  |— 28.3"C;.);  (mean  memorandum)  |minimuinj,  —30 
[—34.4°  C^.J.  I'oor  Elison's  feet  are  turning  dark.  Tlie  S|)irits  of  the  party  keep  \\\>  wonderfully.  Smoke  at 
every  meal  almost  iiisui)portable  | insufferable |.  It  is  blinding,  and  hides  everything.  We  are  getting  used 
somewhat  to  the  dim  light  of  the  ICskimo  lamp.     All  look  forward  eagerly  to  Thanksgiving. 

Novcinhcr  15. — Very  cold.  Thermometer  at  noon,  —33.5  1—36.4°  C.J;  (mean  memorandum)  f mini- 
mum], —  38.3  1—39.0°  C.J.  Tem|ietature  inside  at  noon  was  -I-32  [—0,0°  C.J.  The  wall  of  the  com- 
missary store-house,  and  the  vestibule  ailjoining  was  plastered  today  with  sludge,  lireakfast  this  morning 
of  soup  and  tea,  and  for  dinner  corned  beef  and  tea.  Oh!  this  everlasting  hunger—  it  is  a  terrible  feeling, 
and  I  hope  ne\er  t(j  re[)eat  it — this  feeling  of  never  having  enough  to  eat.  Our  talk  is  incessantly  about 
food  anil  dishes,  restaurants  and  hotels,  ainl  everything  in  connection  with  eating.  How  we  watch  the  cook 
and  speculate  on  the  ( hances  of  getting  a  good  or  |)oor  share.  This  we  sjieculate  to  ourselves,  for  we  all 
admit  that  the  cooks  are  as  lair  as  they  can  be.  I  went  out  to-day  and  worked  with  the  rest.  Lieutenant 
Greely  goes  out  but  for  a  few  minuiijs  during  the  course  of  the  day,  and  does  no  work.  He  is  particularly 
sensitive  to  the  cold.  I  felt  so  weak  to-day  that  a  small  block  of  snow  felt  like  a  weight  of  lead.  To-night 
we  had  i.ssued  our  allowance  of  butter  for  two  days.  That  Is  lof  to-morrow  morning  and  for  Monday  morn- 
ing;  also,  bread  as  usual  for  night  and  morning.  It  .vas  nith  dilHculty  1  sa\ed  a  little  of  my  morning's 
bread. 

Nmrmlhr  16. — Overcast  and  dull.  Thermometer  at  neon,  —12°  (  —  24.4"  C.J  ;  (mean  memorandum) 
IniinimuniJ,  —31  [—35.0°  (!. J.  Worked  outside  on  the  vesti'iule.  Talk  all  day  about  food.  Everyone 
talks  constantly  about  it,  antl  the  subject  is  tlie  one  absorbing  one,  for  we  suffer  a  great  deal  from  hunger. 
The  straits  ap|)arently  closed  for  the  [i.ist  i^^w  days.  Many  of  us  ,ue  suffering  from  frost-bites.  Our  small 
allowance  of  food  makes  us  extremely  sensitive  to  the  cold.  Elison's  case  not  altogether  hopeless.  He  gets 
a  slight  increase  of  ration. 


I 


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i 


*l     1 


i 


u 


398 


THK  LADY  FRANKJJN  PAY   KXIMODITION. 


Memorandum  :  Arme  Rittcr,  tripe,  eggs,  Boston  baked  beans,  and  brown  bread  at  (iodfrey's ;  Hamburg 
beefsteak. 

N.  Vi'inher  1 7, —  7  a.  m.,  haroincter  J9.62.  Noon  temperature,  —  1 1  [  —  24.4°  C] ;  (mean  memorandum) 
[minimum],  —28  [—33.3°  C'.j.  line  seal  stew  for  sujiiJcr.  For  breakfast  vegetable  stew.  Day  overcast, 
with  a  light  wind.  Roof  put  on  vestibule.  Talk  all  (la\  on  the  subject  of  food.  Lieutenant  (!reely  made 
some  remarks  in  the  afternoon  on  the  physical  geugrajihy  of  the  I'nitfil  States.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury 
much  better.     Uiederbii:k  has  got  something  like  a  felon.     C'ro.ss  and  Henry  suffering  from  frost-bites. 

Memorandum  :  Cocoanut  ])udding  (alternate  layers  of  crackers  and  cocoanut) ;  apricot  paste;  English 
plum  [ludding.     \'ery  high  tide  to-day. 

Novi-mhir  iiS. — Hreaktast  at  7  o'clock.  Harometer,  29.50  [749.29""'!.  Noon  thermometer,  —  12 
[—  2^4°  C.j.  (Mean  memorandum)  [minimumj, —  14  [ —  25.6°  Cj.  I  have  not  been  out  of  doors  all  day. 
We  hail  a  line  stew  this  morning  of  hard  l)rea<l  and  raisins  and  coffee,  two  plates  three-quarters  full  for  each. 
The  meal  was  (piite  tilling.  .Sup|>er:  Hard  bread,  roast  beef,  and  tea.  'I'alk  during  the  day  about  food,  as 
usual;  fruits,  nuts,  and  everything  eatable;  restaurants,  hotels,  and  everything  in  connection  with  food.  It 
is  really  amusing  how  this  subject  absorbs  everything.  Lieutenant  Clreely  spoke  for  an  hour  in  the  after- 
noon on  the  subject  of  the  United  States  climate,  pnviucts,  \c.  Hiederbick's  finger  is  better,  and  bids  fair 
to  get  well  without  forming  a  felon,  as  feared,  Kislingbury  is  still  on  the  sick  list.  Henr)',  Cross,  and  others 
are  suffering  from  slight  frost  bites.  Dinner  at  2.30  p.  ni.  We  have  fre(|uent  talks  about  I'"ort  Conger  and 
the  food  enjoyed  there.  Oh!  the  dear  ones  at  home,  how  1  long  to  see  them.  Brainard  plants  a  pole  on  a 
neighboring  rock  to-day,  to  attract  the  attention  of  any  jiarty  from  the  other  side.  Last  night  Connell  and 
Henry  related  personal  reminiscences  of  their  lives. 

Nm^emher  19.  —  7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.55  [75°-S^"""]-  Noon  thermometer,  —  32  [—  35.6°  C.].  (Mean 
memorandum)  [minimumj,  —  34  [—  36.7°  C.].  Jans  [Jens]  shot  a  blue  fox  this  evening,  quite  a  large  one. 
This  is  for  Christmas.  The  entrails  of  this  fox  go  to  the  other  mess;  the  rest  of  the  meat  is  divided  ecjually 
between  the  two  messes.  Day  overcast.  Bread  reduced  now  to  6  ounces  a  day,  and  meat  to  4  ounces. 
This  is  on  account  of  increased  rations  issued  Elison.  He  gets  10  ounces  bread  and  8  ounces  meat.  Ate 
a  lot  of  moldy  dog  biscuit  to-ilay,  about  enough  to  make  p  starved  dog  sick.  Feel  ravenous,  and  could  eat 
anything  now  in  the  shape  of  food.  Fill  up  with  tea  leaves  when  any  are  left  over,  there  is  quite  a  de- 
mand for  them. 

Memorandum:  Puffery  Auflauf  [Puffigcr  Aufliiufer,  puflfy  cake].  Sives  [Chives]  with  scrambled  eggs. 
Molasses  and  butter  mixed. 

Lieutenant  (Ireely  made  some  remarks  this  evening  on  the  grain  products  of  the  United  States.  Last 
evening  we  had  "  I'ickwick,"  "  Two  on  a  Tower,"  and  the  "  History  of  Our  Own  Times."  1  have  handed  the 
book  over  to  Henry;  he  has  a  louder  voice.  Went  out  and  took  a  little  exercise  to-day.  About  10  pounds 
of  this  barrel  of  dog  biscuit  are  utterly  worthless.  There  were  two  barrels  in  all.  Talk  this  evening  all  on 
the  subject  of  eating.  This  is  a  fast  day;  bread  and  butter  for  breakfast,  and  chocolate;  and  for  sujjper 
English  preserved  meat.  The  English  preserved  meat  goes  but  a  little  ways,  and  satisfies  less  than  any  of 
the  rest.  Smoke,  smoke,  smoke  at  every  meal.  A  canvas  chimney  has  been  put  up,  but  only  partially 
carries  away  the  smoke.     Another  fox  shot — blue  one.     Weight  of  these  two  foxes  31^  and  4  pounds,  dressed. 

November  20. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.92  [759-95'"  j.  Noon  thermometer,  —  16  [—  26.7°  C.];  (mean 
memorandum)  |minimuni],  —  32  [  —  35.6°  C.].  Day  overcast,  straits  apparently  closed.  Took  ten  round 
trips  up  and  down  the  lake  for  exercise  about  noon.  Every  time  I  venture  out  I  ;,  t  my  feet  so  cold  that  it 
is  hours  before  I  get  them  warm  again.    We  now  have  a  fox  for  Thanksgiving  and  another  for  Christmas. 

Memorandum:  Fromage  de  Brie — Mcfiruder's  [Magruder's],  New  York  [Avenue].  Liquors  at  idem. 
Kra'.ts  (baker),     Catawba  wine,  $1  per  gallon.     Scubana  [.Scupiiernong]  wine. 

Elison,  Biederbick,  Henry,  and  Cross  suftering  from  frost-bites.  Our  talk  ccntinuvs  constantly  about 
food,  dishes,  confectionery,  cakes,  cheeses,  iVc.  General  remarks  on  American  products  by  Lieutenant 
Greely  this  morning.  Many  arguments  about  what  we  shall  like  when  we  get  back — of  fox,  .seal,  &c.,  that 
we  eat  now  with  so  much  avidity. 

Memorandum :  St.  John's  biscuit  (at  St.  Johns);  Canton  ginger  root ;  cut  oranges  and  grated  cocoanut. 

Our  spirits  remain  gooil,  and  we  manage  to  get  along  with  our  dole  of  food  with  resignation.  Brainard 
is  to  visit  at  the  house  when  we  return,  and  get  some  of  our  Maryland  dishes,  preserved  peaches,  &c.,  &c., 
and  see  my  folks. 

Memorandum;  D[B]eschamel  sauce;  Mayonnaise  sauce. 


ti*< 


■"Ubu, 


THK  LADY   FlfANKMV  HAY  KXI'KDITIOX. 


399 


Nm'embfr  2\. — 7  ;i.  m.,  baroineter  30.00  [769/)i"""].  I  )i  y  ovt-nast  and  fo^ny.  It  is  now  ^I'tling  i|uite 
(lark.  Noon  thermometer,  —  t4  [  —  25.6"  (!.|.  (Mean  memorandinn)  [minimum],  —23.5  [—30.8"  ('.|.  I  did 
not  go  out  to-day.  The  convcr^iati()^  has  taken  a  new  turn.  Most  of  the  men  are  talking  of  going  into 
business.  Wliisler  has  been  singing  the  praises  of  Indeiiendence,  Kans.,  and  we  are  going  to  liave  a  client 
|colonyJ  there.  Long  is  to  set  uj)  a  restaurant  at  .Ann  Ilaibor  [Arbor]  Mich.,  and  Frederick  is  to  start  a 
saloon  at  Minnea[)olis,  Minn.     Jewell  is  going  to  start  a  grocery  at  Independence. 

Memorandum:   .Nhiple  molasses  (Whisler) ;  ]iuin])kin  butter. 

Another  fox  is  around.  Allowance  of  lard  is  to  be  reduced  this  ( oining  week,  on  a< count  of  some 
issued  for  Klison's  frostbites.  No  reading  last  night.  Ameiican  mineral  products  discoursed  on  by  Lieu- 
tenant (Ireely  this  niorninj.  Ne.vt  week  there  is  to  be  a  slight  addition  of  the  butter,  milk,  and  raisins. 
(Jod!  what  an  experience  is  this  I  am  going  through.  Such  an  exjjcrience  is  er.ough  for  one's  life.  How  I 
long  for  the  time  to  pass.  We  are  all  in  good  spirits  and  seem  to  be  getting  along  well  so  far,  but  what 
three  more  months  of  this  will  bring  it  is  impossible  to  say.  An  issue  of  half  an  ounce  of  blubber  is  to  be 
issued  instead  of  the  reduction  of  meat. 

November  21. — 7.45  a.  m.,  barometer  29.97  [761.22"""].  Spent  the  day  in  the  hut.  My  feet  cold  in 
the  morning.  Feeling  bright  to-night.  Lieutenant  (Ireely  made  some  remarks  on  the  geography  of  the 
United  States  in  the  evening.  Conversation  during  the  day  as  usual  on  the  subjei  t  of  eating  Mutton-pie 
[larties  organized  for  St.  John's  on  our  return.  Urainard,  Linn,  Ralston,  and  myself  are  to  go  in  a  hack  to 
Topsail's,  and  in  another,  at  the  same  time,  Connell,  Biederbick,  Salor,  and  I'illis.  On  our  return  we  are  to 
stop  at-P'itzpatrick's  for  ham  and  eggs.  Long  shot  another  fox  this  morning  (blue),  three  and  a  half  ])ounds. 
We  take  very  little  or  no  exercise;  it  gives  one  an  increased  appetite,  and  I  only  go  outside  with  an  effort; 
it  is  dreary  and  dull  and  very  dark. 

Memorandum  :  Jewell  is  to  give  the  c [indecipherable  word]  party  chicken  crotjuettes  and  oyster 

patties  for  breakfast.  \\'e  still  fmd  fresh  water  in  the  lake,  but  it  is  necessary  to  dig  the  hole  every  day. 
Every  imaginable  article  in  the  form  of  food  has  been  iliscussed  to  death.  We  all  look  forward  to  the 
"  son-of-a-gun  "  on  Sunday  and  Thanksgiving  ;  after  that  ['I'hanksgiving]  when  we  are  to  have  an  extra  allow 
ance  of  food.     The  "  son-of-a-gun  "  is  chiefly  made  of  hard  bread. 

Memorandum :  Sugar-house  molasses. 

Frederik,  Eskimo,  shot  another  fox  late  this  evening,  a  blue  one  ;  weight,  when  dressed,  three  and  a  half 
pounds. 

Nmiember  23. — Noon  thermometer,  —24  [  — 3i.i°C.];  (mean  memorandum)  [minimum],  —41 
[— 40.fi°C.].  Thermometer  inside  house  about  this  time,  +32  [0.0°  C.].  Long  shot  a  blue  fox  to-day ; 
Frederik,  F'skimo,  also  shot  one.  These  foxes  weigh  generally  three  and  a  half  or  four  pounds.  We  now 
have  foxes  to  take  us  up  to  the  third  week  in  January,  1884.  They  are  issued  extra.  Breakfast  this  morn- 
ing consisted  of  butter,  chocolate,  and  bread.  rfupi)er,  seal  stew  and  tea.  Remarks  in  the  morning  on  ihe 
State  of  Maine,  by  Lieutenant  Greely  and  others.  Conversation  during  the  day  about  dishes  of  all  kinds, 
and  desserts,  soups,  &c.  We  never  seem  to  weary  of  this  subject.  The  straits  are  apparently  closed  as 
well  as  we  can  judge,  i  have  brought  up  all  the  dishes,  desserts,  &:c.,  we  have  at  home.  Chewed  up  the 
foot  of  a  fox  this  evening  raw.     It  was  altogether  bone  and  gristle. 

Memoran<ium  :  Pie  of  orange  and  cocoanut.  Told  them  to-pight  we  have  at  home  a  blanc  mange  of 
a  blue  cok»;,  but  no  one  could  tell  why  it  was  blue. 

Novtmler  24. — Breakfast  at  the  usual  hour,  or  a  little  later.  Thin  soup  of  string  beans.  Dinner  of  two 
dog-biscuit  and  a  little  English  preserved  meat.  This  English  meat  is  very  unsatisfactory ;  it  is  thin,  and 
goes  but  a  little  ways.  The  tjuality  and  flavor  is  [are]  good  enough,  but  we  like  our  mite  of  meat  as  lean  as  pos- 
sible. I  cut  my  finger  to-day,  and  I  noticed  how  thin  my  blood  was.  Suflering  a  great  deal  to-day  with 
cold  hands  and  feet — especially  feet.  These  short  rations  make  one  feel  the  cold  dreadfully.  It  is  a  cortstant 
effort  to  keep  one's  hands  and  feet  comfortable,  or  comparatively  so.  I  find  my  spirits  first  up  and  then 
down.  Sometimes,  when  I  think  of  the  months  bef  j  us  of  this  life  of  misery  and  suffering,  I  do  not  see 
how  we  can  possibly  pull  through.  At  other  times  1  leel  much  more  hopeful.  This  is  a  life  of  inexpressible  misery. 
Lard  is  to  be  issued  daily  for  Corporal  [Sergeant]  Elison,  who  has  also  an  additional  allowance  of  bread, 
meat,  &c.  This  all  takes  from  our  portion.  Noon  thermometer,  —24  [  — 3i.i''C".];  (mean  memorandum) 
[minimum|  —26  [  — 32..'^  C.].  Weather  overcast  and  dark.  I  went  out  to-day  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
the  first  time  for  three  days.  I  put  on  an  extra  shirt.  My  clothes  now  consist  of  five  flannel  shirts,  two 
vests,  one  of  them  made  of  double  blanket,  and  the  soldier  blouse.     I  have  my  moleskin  coat,  but  do  not 


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THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


wear  it  now  indoot .  Talk  to-night  on  home  and  our  families.  I  live  now  for  tomorrow  morning,  when 
we  have  the  hard-bread  stew  or  "son-of-a-gun."  My  two  dog-biscuit  to-day  were  slightly  moldy,  but  they 
tasted  better  than  the  most  delicious  morsel  in  civilization.  How  often  I  think  of  hmiiL'  and  my  dear  father, 
mother,  and  sisters.  God!  how  I  wish  I  were  witii  them.  I  pray  (iod  they  are  all  wt.ll.  We  watch  the 
cooks,  as  they  divide  and  <lish  out  our  food,  like  hungry  dogs.  We  all  feel  that  the  cooks  are  very  fair  and 
that  we  all  share  alike.  The  bread  is  issued  by  Brainard  for  the  two  messes  to  the  cooks,  who  divide  it  up. 
The  other  things  are  issued  weekly. 

Norember  2tj. — 7.45  a.  m.,  barometer  30. 15  [765.80"""].  Noon  thermometer,  23  [  —  23  (  — 3o.6°C.)]; 
(mean  memorandum)  [minimum]  25  [—25  ( —  31.7°  C.)|.  Day  windy  and  disagreeable.  We  had  a  fine  break- 
fast of  a  "son-of-a-gun"  (hard  bread,  raisins,  milk,  and  a  little  blubber).  A  little  lenum  peel  was  put  in,  but 
was  hardly  perceptible.  It  was  very  filling,  comparatively,  and  came  near  satisfying  the  appetite.  This 
evening  we  had  a  very  nice  soup  of  seal  meat  and  fox.  These  stews,  as  we  call  them,  are  mere  soups,  being 
very  thin.  None  of  them  satisfy  the  appetite,  and  for  this  reason  probably  seem  so  delicious.  I  never  in 
my  life  enjoyed  my  food  as  I  do  now,  A  little  hard  bread  seems  delicious.  To-morrow  is  a  fast  day.  We 
have  only  a  little  piece  of  butter  in  the  morning  .-uid  English  preserved  meat  for  supper.  Rum  and  lemon 
to-day. 

Memorandum:  Duff  a  /« /Vy/««,  pork  fritters,  ribs  of  pickled  pork  or  bacon  cooked  in  corn-meal,  &c.; 
coffee  cake,  molasses  candied,  cooked  in  flour  dough. 

We  now  look  forward  to  Thanksgiving  for  the  next  good  meal.  A  good  deal  of  conversation  to-day 
on  the  subject  of  food.     The  spirits  of  the  party  are  surprisingly  good. 

Memorandum:  Oatmeal  muffins. 

Never  will  I  .ngain  expose  myself  to  the  dangers  and  the  miseries  of  famine.  How  often  I  think  of 
home  and  picture  to  myself  old  familiar  scenes.  I  have  intended  writing  a  letter  recounting  my  experience 
since  leaving  Fort  Conger,  but  the  discomforts  of  this  life  have  prevented  me  so  far.  It  is  difficult  to  get 
the  blubber  lamp  for  more  than  a  few  minutes  during  the  cUiy,  or  not  at  all.  The  lamp  is  blown  out  every 
evening  when  we  are  ready  to  retire,  which  is  generally  about  8  o'clock.  Last  night  Frederick  entcrtaineil 
the  party  with  personal  reminiscences  of  his  life.  Saturday  night  had  been  set  apart  for  personal  reminis- 
cences.    Another  fox  shot  to-day  by  F'rederik,  I'^skimo.     lilowing  pretty  heavily. 

NmH-mber  26. — Have  had  cold  feet  all  day  and  been  miser.able.     Spent  several  hours  this  afternoon 

and  evening  in  putting  tongue  in  sleeping  bag.     7  a.  m., barometer  30.25  [768.34 j.      Noon  thermometer, 

—  34.5  [—36.9°  C.];  (mean  memorandum)  [minimum],  —36.5  [—38.1°  C.].  Straits  apparently  frozen  over. 
Day  has  seemetl  very  long.  Most  of  us  ate  all  our  bread  last  night  and  have  nothing  for  breakfast  but 
chocolate.  With  many  others,  I  ate  all  my  bread  at  supper  this  evening.  Supper  consisteil  of  bread  and 
tea  and  F^nglish  meat.  It  is  singular  how  much  more  comfortable  one  is  after  eating.  .\  little  food  acts 
like  fuel.     Talk  during  the  day  mostly  about  cakes  and  pies. 

Memorandum:  Vienna  Coffee  House,  Broadway  and  F'ourteenth  street.  New  V'ork;  large  assortment 
of  cakes,  bread,  and  i)astry;  fine  chocolate,  omelettes,  and  biscuit  j:,ltHe. 

We  have  discussed  every  dish  under  the  sun,  and  all  forms  of  vegetables  and  desserts  of  all  kinds. 
The  temperature  inside  here  during  the  day  from  +29  to  -I-31  [  —  1.7°  to  —0.6°  C.|. 

No-eemher  27. — Cooks  calleil  at  the  usual  time,  6  o'clock  a.  ni.  7  a.  m.,  barometer  30.35  [770.88"'"']. 
Noon  thermometer  32.5  [  —  32.5  (  —  35.8"  C.)] ;  (mean  memorandum)  [minimum]  43.5  [—43.5  (—41.9°  C.)]. 
Talk  during  the  day  about  all  dishes,  s])ecially  desserts  and  cakes. 

Memorandum:  .^o«/ir(/<j,  Charlotte  Russe,  Tories  \'r(>ilen\  (Vienna  Cafe,  New  York),  roast  sucking 
[)ig,  Irish  stew. 

Got  soup  to-night  of  seal  meat.  This  morning  we  had  a  stew  of  i)ieces,  \-c.  Weatlier  clear  and  cold. 
Another  fox  around.  I  have  been  sewing  on  my  sleeping-bag  all  day.  Most  of  the  i)arty  get  down  in  their 
sleeping-bags  and  cover  up  during  most  of  the  day.  We  are  looking  forward  with  much  interest  to  Thanks- 
giving. 

Memorandum:  Omelettes  at  the  Vienna  Cafe.  These  can  be  sent  for  by  express  from  this  pl.ace;  prices 
moderate. 

Some  of  us  eat  all  of  our  bread  at  night,  and  many  are  the  ways  to  make  our  pittance  of  food  seem 
more  satisfactory. 

Omelette  soufte. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


401 


(1, 

.•ir 
<s- 


Nin'ember  2?,. — Noon  thermometer  observation,  —  ii  [  — 23.9°  C.].  (Mean  memorandum)  [minimum] 
—  34  [ — 36.7°  C.].  Day  windy  with  drifting  snow.  Day  passed  very  much  as  usual;  conversation  same  as 
usual.  I  have  eaten  up  all  my  bread  at  night  for  the  pjist  few  days.  I  find  I  sleep  better  anti  warmer  in 
this  way,  though  generally  I  regret  it  at  breakfast  time.     Fox  was  fired  at,  but  escaped.     Very  dark  now. 

Memorandum:  Things  to  be  kept  in  my  room  at  Washington  for  midnight  lunches:  Sardines,  potteil 
ham,  smoked  beef,  smoked  goose  and  eel,  shrimps,  anchovy  jjaste,  spiced  oysters,  stuffed  olives,  Boston 
pilot  bread,  buttered  crackers,  Albert  and  Arundel  crackers,  soda  anil  water,  ditto  ginger,  nuts  and  cakes, 
can  of  butter  and  condensed  milk,  preserved  peaches,  strawberries,  I'^-c,  and  blackberry  jam,  fromage  tie 
Brie,  and  Schweitzerkiise,  sugar,  beer,  ale  and  porter,  and  cider,  and  liqiwurs,  and  Virginia  seedling  wine, 
mustard,  vinegar,  pepper,  salt,  \'c.,  and  Maryland  biscuit,  black  cake. 

Mnriiifn-r  29. — Cooks  called  at  6  a.  m.  7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.78  [756.40"""].  Noon  thermometer,  —5 
[  —  20.6°  C.J;  (mean  memorandum)  |minimum|,  —15  [  —  26.1°  C.J  Breakfast  consisted  of  the  usual  ration 
of  bread  and  double  quantity  of  ox-tail  soup,  with  some  rice  in  it.  It  was  really  a  large  meal,  comparatively 
speaking,  but  my  anticipation  led  me  to  finish  with  a  sense  of  dissatisfaction.  Day  passed  in  conversation, 
&c.    Psalms  read  in  the  afternoon,  followed  by  sin  .;ing  "  My  country  'tis  of  thee,"  &c.     During  the  afternoon 

1  wrote  at  dictation  bills  of  fare  of  different  members  of  the  party  to  be  eaten  at  our  next  birthdays,  at  which 
each  one  is  to  invite  all  the  rest  of  the  party  who  may  be  at  the  same  place.     (See  end  of  this  book.)     At 

2  o'clock  the  couking  of  the  day  commenced.  First,  seal  stew,  or  rather  soup  of  seal  meat  and  fox  meat, 
with  8  ounces  of  bacon  for  our  mess.  It  was  large  in  (|uantity  comparatively,  but  I  must  confess  a  sense  of 
dissatisfaction  the  same  as  in  the  morning.  Just  before  this,  7  ounces  of  hard  bread  were  issued,  and  our 
butter  for  three  mornings — Friday,  Monday,  and  Wednesday  next.  With  the  hard  bread  issued  was  the  rum, 
it  being  issued  on  account  of  Thanksgiving;  after  this  came  a  pudding  ot  rice,  raisins,  and  some  seal  blubber. 
Each  one  had  a  plate  full,  and  this  was  cooked  on  the  alcohol  lamps  instead  of  stove.  Got  through  this  a 
few  minutes  ago,  about  5.30  p.  m.  I  feel  nearer  satisfied  than  I  have  for  many  weeks.  Hut  still  I  could 
eat  two  or  three  pounds  more  of  such  food  without  being  fully  satisfied.  The  rice  was  six  pounds  and  the 
raisins  5  pountls,  milk  three  cans,  divided  among  the  two  messes  (25  men).  Two-thirds  of  the  milk  was 
put  in  the  pudding,  and  the  rest  goes  in  the  punch,  which  is  to  be  made  this  evening.  This  punch  is  one 
gill  of  rum  to  each  man,  and  one  dozen  lemons  in  all.  The  chocolate  we  are  yet  to  drink,  (^uite  a  number 
of  the  party  are  asking  to  see  and  each  seeking  to  prove  that  this  pudding  was  the  best  rice  pudding  of 
many  eaten  at  Fort  Conger  or  ever  eaten.  It  is,  of  course,  the  effects  of  hunger.  Day  cloudy  and  winily. 
Straits  look  as  if  they  were  ojjcn,  judging  from  the  water-clouds.  I  ate  to-morrow  morning's  and  Monday 
morning's  allowance  of  butter  tonight.  We  had  a  double  allowance  of  cloudberries  to-day.  The  best  part 
of  the  day,  a  hot  rum  punch,  is  yet  to  come.  The  dinner  to-day,  which  we  had  in  lieu  of  oysters,  turkey, 
vegetables,  |)ies,  cakes,  and  all  the  delicacies  of  the  day  in  civilization,  consisted  of  about  7  ounces  of  meat, 
7  ounces  of  bread,  and  about  two  ounces  of  rice  per  man.  We  kept  up  our  committee  [conversationj  on  this 
small  dole  of  food  from  about  noon  when  the  cloudberries  were  issued,  to  about  10  p.  m.  when  we  had  the 
chocolate.  Kept  up  a  continuous  talk  all  this  time  on  little  else  than  the  subject  of  food.  Then  we  had  the 
rum  punch,  v  hich  proved  very  good  indeed,  and  a  few  songs.  About  midnight  most  of  the  party  were  asleep. 
Had  cold  feet  all  day  until  the  evening.  How  often,  oh!  how  often  my  thoughts  have  wandered  home 
to  the  dear  ones  there. 

Nin'cmbcr  2P' — Noon  thermometer,  +3  [—  iC.i°  C] ;  (mean  memorandum)  [minimumj,— 5[— 20.6°  C.J. 
Day  cloudy,  with  snow  falling  and  drifting.     Breakfast  about  7.30.     We  all  feel  quite  well  after  our  feast 
of  yesterday.     Israel  alone  is  a  little  out  of  sorts.     Leaking  inside  here  to-day.     Am  very  much  annoyed  by 
cold  feet.     It  seems  to  be  due  to  bad  circulation,  owing,  I  suppose,  to  the  small  ration. 
^  Memorandum  :   Tn-roii/aiUs  of  ham,  chicken,  &c.     How  often   I  picture  to  myself  the  old,  familiar 

scenes  of  home!  How  I  long  to  know  that  all  are  well,  and  trust  their  anxiety  for  me  is  not  too  great.  I 
jiicture  to  myself  where  my  sisters  are  living,  and  the  family  scenes  and  conversation  at  the  old  roof-tree  in 
the  evening. 

Decembir  i  {Siitunitty), — Breakfast  of  tomato  soup;  very  good.  Noon  thermometer,  — 6  |  — 21,10  (",J ; 
(mean  memorandum)  [minimumj,  —7  [  —  21.7°  C.J.  It  h.isbeen  drip|)ing  all  day  in  the  hut.  Thermometer 
generally  stands  about  freezing-point  [0.0°  C).  Thanksgiving  cooking  and  the  high  rise  in  the  temperature 
has  produced  a  very  disagreeable  drip.  Was  kept  awake  last  night,  ofiand  on  all  night,  by  cold  feet.  My 
feet  and  hands  seem  to  alternate  in  suffering  from  coKI.  This  evening  we  hail  English  beef  and  two  dog- 
biscuit  each.  These  jireserved  meats  are  thawed  out  in  the  cans  by  being  put  in  the  sleeping-bags,  and  then 
H.  Mis.  393 20 


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402 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


divided  without  any  cooking.  I  hash  up  my  meat  fine,  and  also  the  dog-biscuit,  and  keep  them  until  I  get 
my  tea,  and  then  pour  some  tea  on  this  hash,  or  whatever  it  might  be  called.  We  try  all  sorts  of  expedients 
to  make  our  little  dole  of  food  feel  more  satisfactory,  but  one  feels  hungry  all  the  time — nothing  can  prevent 
it.  In  the  morning  we  have  a  good  stew  of  the  bread,  with  a  little  blubber  scraps  and  a  few  raisins  in  it. 
Blowing  very  hard  to-night  from  an  unusual  direction — the  east.  Snow  drifting  very  fiercely  against  the 
house.  Conversation  during  the  uay  on  the  subject  of  eating.  This  is  the  usual  subject,  varied  by  discus- 
sions on  farming  and  other  occupations,  which  the  men,  or  some  of  them,  intend  to  adopt  on  their  return  to 
America.  Linn  is  to  be  a  farmer;  also  Ellis.  Jewell  is  going  into  the  fancy  grocery  business.  Long  is  going 
to  keep  a  restaurant  at  Ann  Harbor  [Arbor],  and  Frederick  is  going  to  set  up'  a  saloon  at  Minneapolis. 
Last  night  I  told  the  narrative  of  my  farming  experience.  It  excited  much  interest,  and  every  one  thinks 
there  is  a  bonanza  in  the  farm.     To-night  Bender  is  giving  a  general  descri|)tion  of  Germany. 

December  2. — The  storm  from  the  east  last  night  continued  until  noon  to-day,  blowing  with  great 
violence  during  the  night,  and  occasioned  some  uneasiness.  The  entrance  to  the  house  was  entirely  snowed 
up,  and  several  hours'  work  were  necessary  to-day  to  dig  us  out.  The  west  side  of  the  house  became  heavily 
banked  with  drifted  snow.  On  the  east  side  a  good  deal  of  snow  was  blown  off.  I  am  to  eat  a  cold  roast 
turkey  with  Linn  down  at  the  farm  on  my  return — turkey  to  be  stuffed  with  oysters  and  eaten  with  cran- 
berries. With  Ralston,  some  hot  hoe-cakes.  With  Ellis,  spare-ribs.  With  Long,  pork  steaks.  With 
Biederbick,  "buffers,"  old  regiment  dish.  With  my  other  neighbor,  Connell,  I  am  to  eat  Irish  stew.  Connell 
is  to  cook  this  himself.  With  Bender,  a  roast  sucking  pig.  With  Schneider,  tenderloin.  With  Brainard, 
peaches  and  cream.  With  Frederick,  a  black  cake,  to  be  cooked  by  one  of  my  sisters,  with  preserves.  With 
Salor,  veal  cutlets  and  lettuce  salad.  With  Whisler,  flap-jacks,  with  molasses.  With  Jewell,  roast  oysters, 
on  toast.  With  Rice,  clam  chowder.  With  Israel,  hashed-up  liver.  With  Gardiner,  Virginia  Indian  pone 
(hotj.  With  Elison,  Vienna  sausage.  With  Dr.  Pavy,  pate  defois  gnis.  With  Henry,  Hamburg  beefsteak. 
With  Kishngbury,  hashed-up  turkey,  chicken,  and  veal.  With  Lieutenant  Greely,  Parker  House  rolls  and 
cofTee,  cheese,  omelet,  chicken  curry,  and  rice,  and  preserved  strawberries.  The  Parker  House  rolls  are 
to  be  baked  at  his  house,  and  I  am  to  furnish  the  preserved  strawberries.  For  supper  to-night  we  had  seal 
stew ;  very  filling. 

Memorandum:  Charlotte  russe. 

With  Cross,  I  am  to  eat  Welsh  rarebit,  with  eggnog  and  black  cake. 

December  ^. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.32  [744.71"""].  Breakfast  this  morning  consisted  of  chocolate  and 
I  ^  ounces  butter — no  bread,  for  I  ate  all  my  bread  last  night.  Many  of  us  eat  all  our  bread  at  night,  and 
many  try  to  save  and  manipulate  their  dole  of  food  in  a  dozen  ways  to  make  the  mite  of  food  seem  more 
filling.  I  have  saved  from  yesterday  some  scraps  of  sealskin,  and  after  Long  was  through  I  put  the  can 
over  the  remnants  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  and  the  scraps  became  quite  soft.  I  ate  them  hair  and  all. 
This  skin  has  little  on  it  but  the  hair,  the  blubber  and  meat  being  cut  off  as  clean  as  possible.  Last  night 
Bender  finished  his  travels  in  Germany  as  a  journeyman  tinsmith.  It  w.is  ((uite  interesting;  it  kept  us  awake 
until  10  o'clock.  Today  the  canvas  of  the  vestibule  at  the  door  was  put  back  and  the  effects  of  the  late 
storm  removed  as  well  as  possible.  I  was  out  about  fifteen  minutes  pickmg  up  pieces  of  wood  scattered  by 
the  wind.  It  is  now  very  dark.  Our  small  rations  make  it  very  difficult  to  remain  out  even  a  few  minutes 
without  suffering  much  from  cold  hands  and  feet,  &c.  We  all  look  forward  now  to  Christmas,  and  count 
the  days  to  the  winter  solstice — the  darkest  day  of  this  dreadful  winter.  Had  a  bad  nightmare  last  night, 
caused  by  getting  the  air  m  the  bag  cut  off,  so  that  I  coukl  hardly  breathe.  Remarks  on  the  States  by 
Lieutenant  Greely  each  morning  now.  After  he  gets  through,  the  state  is  generally  spoken  of  by  those 
of  the  party  who  know  anything.     We  are  now  on  New  York  State. 

Memorandum :  Potato  cake. 

December  4. — It  has  been  blowing  strong  from  the  west  to-day,  and  very  few  of  us  have  been  out.  I 
have  suffered  from  cold  feet  to-day;  found  it  impossible  to  keep  them  warm.  It  makes  this  miserable  life 
still  more  miserable.  What  would  I  not  give  to  be  away  from  here — anywhere  away  from  here — anywhere 
out  of  the  darkness  and  cold,  where  there  is  plenty  of  food  to  eat.  Have  been  in  low  spirits  during  the 
day.  At  times  it  seems  impossible  that  we  can  get  through  such  an  existence.  If  we  entirely  escape  scurvy 
during  the  winter,  as  we  have  so  far,  I  shall  always  regard  it  as  something  almost  miraculous.  This  evening 
the  spirits  of  the  party  seem  higher,  and  we  have  indulged  in  some  singing — singing  is  something  rather  rare 
with  us.  Thermometer  to-day  outside,  —8  (—22.2°  C.].  We  have  mentioned  every  vegetable,  meat,  fruit, 
and  dishes  of  every  kind  until  the  subject  is  worn  out,  and  yet  still  it  forms  the  staple  subject  of  conversatiotl. 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


403 


Our  minds  dwell  continually  on  food.  Our  rations,  commencing  Thursday  (for  seven  days),  issued  to-day, 
consist  of  two  cans  of  English  beef  (4  pounds  each),  two  cans  of  soup,  two  cans  of  peas,  two  cans  of  cofiee, 
three  of  chocolate,  one  can  and  four  ounces  of  corned  beef,  and  half  a  can  of  milk.  Besides  this,  hard 
bread  and  a  little  blubber.     Besides  this  we  have  some  rice,  &c.,  to  be  issued  to-morrow. 

December  5. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.55  fTSo-S^'""']'  Violent  storm  from  the  east  during  the  night.  It 
blew  with  great  violence  and  threatened  the  destruction  of  our  hut.  Early  this  morning  it  changed  and 
blew  from  the  west,  and  continued  until  afternoon.  Vestibule  and  commissary  storehouse  filled  with  snow. 
House  is  now  well  banked  up  by  the  action  of  these  storms.  The  straits  must  be  undoubtedly  open.  Got 
very  little  sleep  last  night,  as  well  as  r;ight  before,  on  account  of  cold  feet.  To-day  my  feet  have  been 
warm,  much  to  my  joy.  Cloudberries  issued  to-day.  Lime-juice  is  issued  twice  a  week,  and  cloudberries 
once.  No  one  out  to  day  excepting  a  very  few.  Reading  last  night  of  the  Bible,  [Army]  Regulations,  and 
Pickwick.  My  dress  now  consists  of  blouse,  double  blanket  vest,  leather  vest  and  five  flannel  shirts,  and 
three  pairs  of  drawers.    Thermometer  rose  to-day  [to]  about  +4  [  —  15.6°  C.]. 

December  6. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.53  [750.05"""].  Thank  God!  another  day  has  passed.  Had  nice 
warm  feet  last  night,  but  to-day  about  noon  the  circulation  left  tl-.em,  anil  since  then  I  have  been  miserable. 
Life  in  the  most  miserable  "  dug-out "  in  the  West  seems  a  paradise  in  comparison  with  this  life.  Ther- 
mometer fell  today  to  —  i  o  [—23.3°  C.].  We  have  had  a  severe  west  wind  during  the  day.  Very  few  of  us 
out — the  cooks,  Ralston  and  Ellis,  and  a  few  others  have  been  the  only  ones.  Most  of  us  take  no  exercise 
to  speak  of  during  the  day.  Nature  calls  us  out,  but  at  long  intervals — of  some  as  long  as  two  weeks  at  a 
time.  Pennsylvania  was  the  siibject  of  discourse  this  afternoon,  and  since  then  food,  dishes,  and  restaurants 
have  been  the  chief  subjects  of  conversation.  We  still  get  water  out  of  the  lake,  but  have  more  or  less 
trouble  with  the  hole  now.  Open  water  is  rejjorted  close  to  the  shore  now,  and  the  straits  are  open  beyond 
all  doubt.  We  have  frequent  speculations  about  food  on  the  other  side  and  party  every  tlay,  and  their 
probable  movements  in  the  spring.  Would  to  God  the  spring  was  come.  We  look  forward  no  to  Sunday 
morning  bread  pudding,  or  "  son-of-a-gun  ".  Next  week  we  are  to  have,  on  Wednesday,  three  and  a  quarter 
ounces  of  bacon.  Next  comes  our  Christmas  "feast".  We  have  frequent  discussions  as  to  Fort  Conger, 
dishes,  &c.  Schneider  reads  our  bills  of  fare  over,  corresponding  to  these  months.  My  dinner  or  supper 
to-day  consisted  of  corned  beef,  hard  bread,  and  tea.  The  bread  and  meat  I  cut  uj)  finely.  Put  gunpowder 
on,  and  when  I  get  my  tea  pour  considerable  of  it  on  them,  which  makes  a  warm  hash  and  soaks  the  hard 
bread.  After  this  I  drink  my  tea.  A  can  of  hard  bread  was  found  here,  and  we  use  it  extensively  instead 
of  salt,  of  which  we  have  a  little.  Israel  reports  to-night  the  wind  is  blowing  about  25  miles  an  hour  [about 
11"'  per  second].     A  fox  shot  to-day  weighing  three  pounds — a  blue  fox. 

December  T. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.55  [7S°'S6"""]'  Noon  thermometer,  —21  [  — 29.4°  C.].  Wind 
died  away  about  noon  until  it  nearly  stopped.  We  had  consider.ablc  trouble  getting  water  to-day.  The 
hole  was  dug  ouf  until  it  was  between  3  and  4  feet  deep  [about  i"'],  but  it  was  not  until  about  •^  p.  m.  that 
we  got  water.  At  one  time  it  looked  as  if  the  water  for  supper  would  have  to  be  made  from  ice.  A  fox 
was  heard  last  night  on  the  roof,  but  we  did  not  get  him.     Two  or  three  are  known  to  be  around. 

Memorandum:  Pumpkin  butter.  Model  Coffee  House,  Philadelphia,  established  by  Quakers.  Fisk  and 
Gould  Cafes,  New  York,  Chatham  street.  Litde  Pacific  House,  Chicago.  All  of  these  are  cheap  eating 
places,  where  you  can  get  food,  vegetables,  &c.,  at  5  cents  a  dish.  Tenderloin  cooked  between  two  ordinary 
beefsteaks  recommended  as  particularly  good.     Curry  paste  and  chickens. 

We  had  to-night  a  very  good  stew,  or  soup  moie  j)roperly  s[)eaking,  of  seal.  Breakfast  consisted  of  coffee, 
bread,  and  butter.  Elison  gets  along  much  better  than  expectecL  There  is  a  chance  of  his  pulling  through. 
Reading  last  night  of  Bible,  Pickwkk,  and  History  of  our  Own  Times.  Talk  all  day  mostly  about  res- 
taurants and  dishes  of  various  kinds. 

December  8. — 7  a.m.,  barometer  29.80  [756.91"'"'].  Noon  thermometer,  —24  [-31.1°  C.].  .\bout 
this  time  temperature  inside  +29  [  —  1.7°  C]  by  thermometer  two  and  half  feet  [.75"']  from  the  fire,  and  by 
another  thermometer,  about  five  feet  [1.5'"],  high  hung  on  the  gunwale  of  the  boat,  [nearly  over  the  cooking 
stove]  -I-31  [— o.6°C.].  Suffered  from  cold  feet  all  day  until  supper  time.  This  constant  misery  from  cold 
feet  is  worse  in  some  respects  than  the  cokl.  Breakfast  this  morning,  soup  of  peas,  &c.  To-night  we  had 
two  dog-biscuit  and  a  mouthful  of  English  beef  I  ate  my  bread  and  meat  together,  and  then  waited  for  the 
tea.  Of  late  have  generally  kept  my  bread  and  meat  until  the  tea  was  ready,  but  no  expedients  make  much 
difference.  There  is  never  enough.  Bill  of  fare  these  seven  days  same  as  last  week.  Our  issue  week  com- 
mences on  Thursday.     Roar  from  the  moving  ice  in  the  straits  quite  loud  to-day.     We  do  not  like  to  hear  it. 


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THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


[Lieutenant  Grcely  talked  on]  Pennsylvania  this  afternoon.  Fine  " son-of-a-gun  "  in  the  morning.  We  have 
been  looking  forward  to  it  all  the  week.  Both  messes  cook  now  on  one  stove,  alternating  each  morning. 
Smoke  in  great  quantities  every  day.  We  have  frequent  discussions  and  hot  arguments  as  to  what  stews, 
&c.,  are  the  best;  also  frequent  arguments  as  to  our  fare  at  Fort  Conger,  and  what  we  liked  there. 

Memorandum:  Hulled  corn.  I  mentioned  to-day  the  hot  cakes  eaten  at  dinner  with  sugar  and  wine. 
It  seems  a  new  dish  to  every  one. 

All  the  well  ones  of  the  party  except  Lieutenant  Greely,  who  does  no  work  and  goes  out  only  when 
absolutely  necessary,  went  out  to-day  and  did  some  work  on  the  vestibule,  digging  out,  &c.  A  can  of  alcohol 
was  unfortunately  struck  with  a  pick  and  about  one  pound  lost. 

December  9. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.90  [759.45"'"'].  Fine  "son-ofa-gun"  for  breakfast,  to  which  we 
looked  forward  all  the  week  past.  Thermometer  at  noon,  —19  [  —  28.3°  C.].  Four  foxes  were  shot  last 
night,  two  by  Brainard  and  two  by  Long.  Weight,  2  pounds  10,  3  pounds,  3  pounds  2,  and  4  pounds  10. 
This  means  dressed.     We  have  felt  better  satisfied  to-day  than  for  a  long  time. 

Memorandum :  Fig  pie. 

Rum  and  a  quarter  of  a  lemon  to  each  one  as  usual.  Talk  to-day  much  the  same  as  usual,  mostly  about 
food.  I  have  been  in  the  sleeping  bag  all  day — feet  alternately  cold  and  warm, but  moderately  warm.  The 
foxes  shot  of  late  have  generally  been  heard  on  the  roof  of  our  hut  overhead,  thus  giving  warning  of  their 
presence.  We  feel  confident  of  getting  a  bear  yet.  I  managed  to  save  half  my  bread  stew  this  morning,  and 
kept  it  till  this  evening  and  ate  it  with  my  lemon.  I  feel  particularly  filled  tonight.  This  bread  stew,  as  thus 
eaten,  contained  blubber,  raisins,  and  lemon — a  terrible  mixture  for  any  one  but  a  man  on  (juarter  rations  in  the 
Arctic.  Three  of  the  foxes  shot  last  night  were  blue  and  the  other  half  blue  and  half  white.  How  often  my 
thoughts  wander  home  to  the  family  scenes  there — my  thoughts,  I  must  confess,  are  generally  accompanied 
by  thoughts  of  the  table.  In  fact  I  can  think  of  nothing  but  eating.  For  breakfast  we  have  bread,  butter, 
and  chocolate.  The  bread  I  have  mostly  eaten— all  but  three  small  pieces.  The  butter  I  put  in  the  choco- 
late. Frederick  gave  his  railroad  and  other  experiences  last  night.  To-night  Rice  gives  reminiscences  of  a 
trip  to  the  West  Indies,  and  also  to  the  Newfoundland  fisheries. 

December  10  (Monday). — Temperature,  —27  [ — 32.8°  C.].  Strong  westerly  gale  blowing  pretty  much 
all  day,  with  drifting  snow;  very  severe.  It  was  my  turn,  and  I  went  out  at  4  o'clock  ami  cut  out  the  water 
hole.  Saw  a  blue  fox.  This  is  blue  Monday.  Breakfast:  bread,  butter,  and  chocolate.  Supper:  English 
beef  and  tea.  Lieutenant  Greely  and  Rice  have  agreed  to  [alternately]  give  each  other  all  their  Sunday 
morning  bread  stews  next  Sunday  and  the  one  following.  One  will  give  that  [go  without]  and  the  other 
have  double  allowance. 

Memorandum :  Guava  jelly,  pineapple.  Raw  meat  and  onions  minced  and  eaten  together.  Mashed- 
potato  cakes,  fried,  with  a  layer  of  sausage  between  and  a  poached  egg  served  on  top  of  each. 

We  drink  our  tea  without  sugar  or  milk.  I  have  now  gotten  quite  used  to  it.  The  tobacco  of  many 
of  the  parly  is  gone,  and  they  are  miserable.  Maryland  was  the  subject  of  remark  this  morning.  I  made 
a  few  remarks.  The  messes  still  cook  in  turn.  We  count  the  days  to  December  21  and  ('hristmas.  I 
have  moderately  warm  feet  to-day  for  a  wonder.  Slept  through  last  night  without  getting  up.  Generally 
wake  up  several  times,  and  have  to  get  up  two  or  three  times  during  the  night.  Another  day  gone,  thank 
God !  Oh !  for  the  time  when  we  shall  have  all  we  can  eat,  and  have  light  and  health. 

Memorandum:  Parker  House  rolls. 

December  11. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.88  [758.94""'].     Thermometer  at  noon,  —20  [ — 28.9"  C.]. 

Memorandum:  Vienna  sausage  at  Vienna  Cafe,  New  York.     Stuffed  pancakes. 

Clear  and  calm  to-day,  mostly.  Canvas  roof  of  vestibule  put  on  which  was  blown  off  lately  by  the 
storm.  Most  of  the  party  went  out  to  help  a  few  minutes.  I  passed  a  miserable  night  last  night,  having 
cold,  icy  feet  all  night;  thought  they  would  freeze.  Got  no  sleep  until  just  before  breakfast  this  morning. 
Did  not  go  out  to-day.  Supper  to-night  of  Proteus  bread  and  3^  ounces  English  cooked  bacon.  I 
minced  up  my  bread  and  bacon  and  poured  some  tea  on  it,  but  it  got  cold  before  I  was  ready  to  eat. 
Experienced  a  sense  of  dissatisfaction.  Oh!  bow  glad  I  shall  be  when  no  longer  necessary  to  try  to  cheat 
my  stomach  in  this  w-iy.  A  few  issues  only  of  this  Proteus  bread  left.  After  that  we  have  only  American 
hard  bread  and  the  English.  Breakfast  hours  continue  as  usual.  Fire  lighted  at  6  a.  m.  for  breakfast  and 
2.30  p.  m.  for  supper.  It  smokes  now  less  than  formerly.  We  count  the  days  until  the  solstice,  Christmas 
and  New  Year.     The  time  passes  fast.     Biederbick  says  that  the  line  of  demarkation  in  Elison's  hands  and 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


405 


feet  is  now  quite  plain.  In  the  former  it  is  just  below  the  ankle  anil  in  the  latter  through  the  fingers. 
Elison  seems  in  good  spirits,  however.  I  try  all  kinds  of  expedients  to  keep  my  feet  warm,  but  almost 
without  any  success.     It  is  thought  water  may  last  until  February. 

Dectmbcr  12. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  30.00  [76 1.99"""]. 

Memorandum :  Hot  porter  with  nutmeg  and  sugar. 

Fine  day  with  bright  moonlight,  calm  and  clear.  Thermometer — 25  [—31.7°  C.J.  I  went  out  in  the 
afternoon  and  worked  a  few  minutes,  doing  some  work  on  the  vestibule,  which  is  now  about  finished.  Find 
myself  very  weak.  I  have  concluded  it  best  to  eat  all  my  bread  and  cold  meat  when  first  dealt  out,  which 
is  generally  half  hour  or  more  before  we  get  our  tea.  The  two  messes  alternate  in  cooking  first.  Oh!  this 
wretched  existence,  where  a  few  crumbs  of  bread  are  as  highly  prized  as  the  most  delicious  delicacies.  For 
breakfast  this  morning  we  had  ox-tail  soup  and  rice ;  and  for  supper,  Bjiglish  beef,  cold,  and  hard  bread.  I 
have  saved  two  small  pieces  of  my  bread  for  breakfast  in  the  morning.  We  lie  in  our  sleeping-bags  pretty 
much  all  the  time.  There  is  no  room  in  the  alley-way,  it  being  occupied  by  the  cooks  and  by  Cross,  who 
daily  saws  and  splits  wood  for  the  stove.  Only  nine  more  days  to  the  solstice.  It  is  wonderful  that  we  all 
remain  in  such  good  health.  To-morrow  commences  issue  week.  For  our  thirteen  men  we  get  two  cans 
of  coffee,  two  of  chocolate,  two  of  English  beef,  one  of  soup,  one  of  butter,  one  of  tomatoes,  one  of  green 
corn,  one  can  corned  beef,  and  one  can  milk.  Some  of  these  are  slightly  in  excess  of  the  ration,  and  a  small 
fraction  has  to  be  carried  over.  Vice  versa,  a  small  fraction  is  still  due  to  some.  The  English  beef  cans 
contain  (or  are  supposed  to)  4  pounds  each.  Milk,  one  pound;  corned  beef,  two  pounds;  soup,  two  and  a 
half;  tomatoes,  the  same ;  green  corn,  25  ounces;  16  ounces  of  the  last  are  allowed  only.  Onecan  (25  oz.) 
extract  meat  are  allowed  for  three  weeks. 

December  13. — 7  a.  m.,  baiometer  29.80  I756.91"""].     Thermometer,  about  noon,  —23  [ — 30.6°  C.]. 

Memorandum:  Cranberry  jelly. 

Last  night  I  ate  two  fox  paws  raw.  They  are  little  else  than  bone,  but  I  chewed  up  the  bone  and  every- 
thing raw.  In  the  evening,  after  supper,  the  other  mess  had  something  to  say  about  their  cook,  Frederick. 
The  doctor,  Henry,  Whisler,  Cross,  Bender,  Connell,  and  Sclineider  testify  to  having  seen  several  things 
which  looked  very  suspicious,  all  looking  towards  favoritism  towards  Hrainard  or  towards  Frederick,  gettitig 
himself  more  of  the  stew,  &c.,  than  his  share.  It  seemed  the  matter  had  been  talked  over  before  privately 
among  themselves,  but  nothing  said  publicly  up  to  this  time.  Among  other  things,  a  Proteui  biscuit  fell  out 
of  Fredei  ick's  pocket,  some  days  ago,  when  he  drew  out  his  watch  to  look  at  the  time.  On  another 
occasion,  the  stew  of  seal  meat  helped  to  Brainard  was  heavier  than  any  of  the  rest  received.  After  those 
mentioned  had  related  the  facts,  Frederick  made  an  explanation  which  was  generally  thought  to  be  ipiite 
satisfactory,  and  so  the  matter  stands.  Frederick  still  goes  on  cooking.  To-day  we  have  had  a  good  deal 
of  wind.  Breakfast  this  morning  of  ox-tail  soup ;  supper  of  corned  beef  and  tea.  Nobody  out  to-day  but 
the  cooks,  and  a  few  of  the  men  who  went  out  called  by  nature.  Some  have  not  been  out  for  certain 
purposes  since  fifteen  days.  We  have  reading  every  night  generally  —  Pickwick,  McCarthy,  Bible,  &c. 
Sometimes  the  blubber  lamp  is  blown  out  about  7.30,  and  sometimes  we  manage  to  keep  awake,  often  up 
until  9  o'clock.  Brainard  is  to  come  to  supper  at  my  home,  on  reaching  Washington,  and  I  have  promised 
him  sally- lunn,  stewed  oysters,  smearcase,  slip,  and  preserved  strawberries  with  cake.  After  supper  a  smoke, 
and  then  wine  and  cake,  and  some  singing  by  Mary  Murray.  I  have  invited  Frederick  and  Long  to  come 
to  the  house  and  eat  some  preserved  strawberries  and  black  cake. 

December  14. — 7  a.  m,,  barometer  29.91  [759.70"""].  Thermometer  at  noon,  —17  [—27.2°  C.].  Fred- 
erik,  Eskimo,  shot  a  white  fox  this  afternoon ;  weight,  4j^  pounds.  This  gives  usafox  forthe  whole  party  each 
week  until  the  last  week  in  February.  North  Carolina  formed  the  subject  of  discussion  during  the  forenoon  to- 
day. Many  of  the  men  are  getting  out  of  tobacco,  and  smoke  tea  leaves  and  the  bark  of  the  birch.  The 
other  mess  had  a  growl  tonight  about  their  soup — got  it  cold,  they  said.  Bender,  as  usual,  had  the  most 
to  say,  and  made  it  unpleasant  for  us  all  for  half  hour  or  so.  We  count  the  days  from  one  Sunday  to 
anoth.r,  and  to  solstice  and  Christmas. 

Memorandum :  Leaf  dough  biscuit  (same  principle  as  the  pie  crust  eaten  hot  at  home). 

December  15. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  30.12  [765.03"'"'].  Noon  thermometer,  —17  [—27.20  C.].  Day 
clear  and  calm ;  we  still  have  the  moon.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  the  amount  of  light  between  here 
and  Fort  Conger.  We  had  considerable  trouble  to-day  with  the  water  hole,  and  it  was  three  o'clock  before 
the  fire  was  lighted  for  supper.  Those  who  go  out  to  work  now  are  all  but  Lieutenant  Greely,  the  doctor, 
Israel,  Henry,  Elison,  Cross,  Biederbick.  Cross  saws  the  wood  in  the  house  here,  and  Biederbick  has  a  sore 
finger.     The  cooks  are  fully  employed  otherwise. 


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406 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Memorandum :  Bootees  opposite  Atlantic  House,  St.  John's,  S5 ;  same  as  those  advertised  in  the  Manu- 
facturing Journal.     Pickled  eggs  (hard  boiled). 

Breakfast  this  morning :  stew  (or  soup  rather,  for  we  call  them  all  stews)  of  tomatoes  and  rice.  It 
consisted  of  the  usual  amount  of  English  beef,  cold,  and  of  dog  biscuit  one  and  a  half  ounces  e.ich.  We 
look  forward  to  to-morrow  for  the  "son-of-a-gun"  with  great  interest.  We  watch  the  operations  of  the  cooks 
with  great  interest.  North  Carolina  was  dealt  with  this  morning.  Gardiner  made  some  interesting  remarks 
on  the  pliintation  life  there,  &c.  Our  most  const.ant  subject  of  conversation  is  food  of  all  kinds.  We  have 
exhausted  the  subject,  but  it  assumes  new  phases  every  day.  Sewed  a  piece  of  blanket  to  my  sleeping-bag 
as  a  flap.  Sewing  is  here  a  severe  ordeal.  Cold,  darkness,  and  all  sorts  of  obstacles  to  overcome.  I  have 
not  been  out  to-day. 

December  16. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.82  [757.41""'].  Noon  thermometer,  —21  [—294°  C.].  Heavy 
wind  last  night,  which  continued  until  sometime  to-day.  This  morning  we  had  a  fine  bread  stew  "  son-of- 
a-gun,"  hard  bread,  raisins,  blubber,  and  lemon,  a  mere  taste  of  everything,  however,  but  bread.  I  bor- 
rowed a  dog-biscuit  from  Biederbick  last  night,  and  adding  it  to  this  morning's  allowance  of  bread,  or  rather 
what  was  left  since  last  night,  was  enabled  to  save  part  of  the  bread  pudding  until  to-night.  To-night  we 
had  a  fine  seal  and  fox  stew  or  soup.  I  feel  better  satisfied  than  I  have  for  two  months,  hardly  excepting 
Thanksgiving.  I  feel  indeed  somewhat  uncomfortable.  Our  stomachs,  I  suppose,  have  contracted  under 
the  small  allowance,  and  I  am  satisfied  an  ordinary  meal  would  make  us  feel  badly.  It  is  a  noticeable  fact 
that  the  conversation  slackens  after  these  "  full "  meals.  More  is  said  after  these  sparse  ones.  It  is  only  on 
such  occasions  as  the  present  that  my  mind  reverts  for  any  length  of  time  to  anything  but  food.  Five  days 
more  to  the  top  of  the  hill.     Thank  God ! 

December  17. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.42  [747.25"""];  thermometer, — 13  [—25.0°  C.].  A  fox  has  been 
seen  near  the  house  several  times,  but  is  very  wary.     However,  we  expect  to  have  him  yet. 

Memorandum :  Castle  Garden  for  good  servants.     Hog's  m.irrow  eaten  on  bread  with  pepper  and  salt. 

This  is  blue  Monday.  The  tobacco  of  several  is  gone  and  they  are  in  misery.  Tea  leaves  and  birch 
bark  are  used  by  some.  I  am  pinching  myself  to  make  mine  go  as  far  as  possible.  Last  night  Lieutenant 
Greely  and  Rice  had  some  unpleasant  conversation,  brought  about  by  the  discussion  of  the  relative  merits 
of  Indian  corn  pone.  The  other  mess  now  have  one  of  their  number  to  hand  around  the  food  after  the 
cook  has  divided  it  and  put  it  in  the  plates.  We  place  implicit  confidence  in  Long.  Got  my  feet  nice  and 
warm  last  night  by  sitting  on  the  stone  on  which  the  fire  is  built.  Last  night  we  kept  awake  until  10  o'clock. 
I  have  invited  Rice,  Brainard,  Jewell,  and  Linn  to  go  down  to  the  farm,  see  it,  and  spend  the  night  in  the 
kitchen  on  the  farm,  and,  by  the  light  of  an  open  wood  fire  eat  some  roast  oysters,  peaches,  and  cream,  &c. 
My  pictures  seem  to  give  great  pleasure.  My  feet  were  nice  and  warm  all  day  yesterday,  and  last  night  I 
slept  through  for  the  second  time  without  waking  up.  I  generally  wake  up  a  number  of  times,  and  have  to 
get  up  to  use  my  can  three  or  five  times  or  more,  all  the  effect  of  the  cold.  It  is  singular  how  provoked 
now  I  feel  at  any  dish  I  have  had  the  chance  of  eating  in  civilization  and  have  neglected.  The  roof  and 
walls  of  the  house  are  all  now  heavily  coated  with  frost. 

December  li, — Thermometer  at  noon, —17  [  —  27.2°  C.].  The  day  has  seemed  to  pass  rapidly.  We 
had  a  stew  of  corn,  &c.,  for  breakfast  and  fine  seal  stew  for  supper.  Talk  all  day  about  food — what  cakes, 
preserves,  and  various  dishes  we  prefer. 

Memorandum :  Suit  of  Scotch  tweed  at  Halifax  can  probably  be  purchased  for  about  $18.  Try  oranges 
and  pineapple  cut  up  together  and  eaten  with  grated  cocoanut. 

Fine  clear  night  this  evening;  calm.  My  thoughts  are  constantly  on  food,  and  my  mind  dwells  con- 
stantly on  my  childhood  dishes  at  home.  Oh !  my  dear  home  and  the  dear  ones  there.  Can  it  be  possible 
I  shall  some  day  see  them  again,  and  that  these  days  of  misery  will  pass  away  ?  My  dear  father,  is  he  still 
alive?  My  dear  mother  and  sisters,  Harry,  and  my  nieces  and  brothers-in-law.  How  often  I  think  of  them. 
Only  three  days  more  to  the  top  of  the  hill. 

December  If).— 1  a.  m.,  barometer  29.85  [758.18°  C.].  Stormy  and  windy  to-day,  blowing  hard.  The 
thermometer  this  afternoon,  —  2 1  [—29.4°  C.].  I  have  been  in  rather  low  spirits  to-day;  yesterday  my  spirits 
were  pretty  high;  thus  they  alternate.  This  unsatisfactory  English  beef  for  supper.  I  ate  it  just  as  it  came. 
Cloudberries  about  i  o'clock,  meat  about  1.30,  and  bread  about  2  o'clock,  tea  about  half-past  2.  I  always  eat 
my  bread  regretfully.  If  I  eat  it  before  tea,  I  regret  that  I  did  not  keep  it,  and  if  I  wait  until  tea  comes  and 
then  eat  it,  I  drink  my  tea  rather  hastily  and  do  not  get  the  satisfaction  out  of  the  cold  bread  and  meat  I 


TBE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


407 


otherwise  would.  What  .1  miserable  life,  where  a  few  crumbs  of  bread  weigh  so  on  one's  mind.  It  seems  to 
be  so  with  all  the  rest.  All  sorts  of  expedients  arc  tried  tocheat  one's  stomach,  but  with  about  the  same  result. 
The  issue  week  commences  to-morrow.  Provisions  issued  to-day:  One  can  soup,  two  and  a  half  pounds; 
two  cans  corned  beef;  three  cans  coffee,  16  ounces  each ;  two  cans  chocolate,  12  ounces  each ;  one  can  milk; 
one  can  of  eggs,  and  one  can  of  pease.  Some  of  these  cans  are  a  little  above  and  some  a  little  below. 
Thus  this  week  we  get  an  extra  can  of  coffee.  The  conversation  on  food  now  often  assumes  an  argumenta- 
tive form.  Dishes  are  almost  exhausted.  Thank  God!  day  aiter  to-morrow  marks  the  increase  of  light. 
The  time  seems  to  pass  very  fast,  but  does  not  equal  our  impatience.  A  good  deal  of  trouble  with  the 
water-hole  to-day.  The  small  hole  at  the  bottom  froze  up,  and  was  only  opened  by  finding  the  ice-chisel, 
which  had  been  lost.  Working  in  the  storm  was  a  great  job.  I  did  not  go  out.  I  feel  an  apathy  and 
cloudiness  almost  impossible  to  shake  off.  We  are  all  very  weak.  Clouiil)erries  come  on  Wednesdays 
only,  rum  on  Sundays;  lime-juice  issued  twice  a  week.  It  is  a  great  difficulty  we  have  every  night  to  know 
just  hdw  much  hard  bread  to  save  for  breakfast  the  next  Qiorning — hunger  to-night  forces  hunger  to-morrow 
morning.     The  cooks  use  more  or  less  salt  water  every  day. 

December  20. — 7.30  a.m.,  barometer  29.80  [756.91"'"');  noon  thermometer,  —25  [—31.7°  C.].  Calm, 
clear  day.  A  good  deal  of  talking  going  on,  and  every  one  apparently  in  pretty  good  spirits.  Alabama 
and  Tennessee  remarked  on  this  morning  by  Lieutenant  Greely.  These  remarks  are  generally  supplemented 
by  any  of  the  rest  of  us  who  know  anything  particular  about  the  States.  A  fox  was  heard  on  the  roof  last 
night  several  times,  and  two  or  three  times  Long  went  out,  but  without  success.  This  afternoon  Frederik, 
Eskimo,  shot  a  white  fox — another  one — weight,  4^  pounds.  The  straits  arc  apparently  closed  as  far  as  we 
can  judge. 

Memorandum :  Metzworst  sausage,  blood  pudding,  doughnuts  stuffed  with  preserves ;  tart  forms  from 
Vienna  Cafe,  New  York,  to  be  filled  at  home. 

I  have  commenced  mixing  tea  leaves  with  my  tobacco  to  make  it  go  farther.  We  now  frequently 
amuse  ourselves  in  improvising  dishes  of  different  kinds.  Reading  last  night  of  the  Bible,  Pickwick,  &c. 
In  anything  we  read,  any  mention  of  food  or  dishes  is  always  commented  upon  by  some  of  us. 

December  21. — 7  a.  m.,  barometer  29.60  [751.83"'"'].  The  top  of  the  hill — the  most  glorious  day  of 
this  dreary  journey  through  the  valley  of  cold  and  hunger — has  at  last  come,  and  now  nearly  gone. 
Thank  God,  now  the  glorious  sun  commenced  to  return,  and  every  day  gets  lighter  and  brings  him  nearer. 
It  is  an  augury  that  we  shall  yet  pull  through  all  right.  Exchanged  bags  with  Jewell  during  the  afternoon, 
and  paid  Lieutenant  Greely  and  his  neighbors  a  visit.  Had  a  good  fox  stew  this  evening.  By  a  great 
effort  was  able  to  save  one  ounce  of  my  bread  and  about  two  ounces  of  butter  for  Christmas.  I  shall  make 
a  vigorous  effort  to  abstain  from  eating  it  before  then.  Put  it  in  charge  of  Biciierbick  as  an  additional  safe- 
guard. Brainard  shot  another  fox  last  night,  a  blue  one.  We  now  have  a  fox  for  every  week  up  to  the  end 
of  February  and  an  extra  one  for  Christmas.  This  makes  the  twentieth  fox  killed.  Louisiana  spoken  of 
to-day.  I  added  to  it  by  recounting  my  trip  from  Baltimore  to  Texas,  and  then  on  return  to  New  Orleans 
and  up  to  Cincinnati. 

December  22.— 7.10,  barometer  29.80  [756.91"'"'] ;  thermometer,  29  [—29]  [—33.9°  C.].  Calm  and  clear. 
I  was  out  to-day  to  cut  out  water-hole ;  worked  on  it  some  time  and  finally  was  helped  by  Connell.  Found 
myself  very  weak,  and  could  hardly  lift  the  water  I  brought  in. 

Memorandum :  Citron  preserves. 

Fox  seen  to-day,  but  not  shot.  The  Eskimo  got  a  small  piece  of  tobacco  on  [for  the]  shooting  of  each 
fox.  I  am  now  smoking  tea  leaves  mixed  with  my  tobacco.  It  is  now  very  dark,  but  not  so  dark  as  at  Fort 
Conger.  We  look  forward  to  to-morrow  and  Christmas.  I  had  no  bread  this  morning,  and  only  one  dog- 
biscuit  to-night  (one  and  one-half  ounces).  I  offered  to  give  any  one  a  roast  turkey  on  reaching  home  for 
a  single  dog-biscuit  now,  but  found  no  takers. 

December  2^. — Barometer,  29.85  [758.18™"];  thermometer,  — 24[— 3i.i''C.].  Have  had  clear,  calm  day 
till  this  evening,  when  it  has  commenced  blowing.  Connell's  turn  to  open  the  water-hole.  He  went  out,  but 
did  not  succeed.  Several  otliers  went  in  turn  until  every  one  but  the  invalids  had  been  out.  When  Whisler 
went  out  he  managed  to  get  the  ice-chisel  stuck  in  the  lower  part  of  the  hole,  so  that  before  continuing  the 
work  it  was  necessary  to  get  it  out.  Supper  time  passed  and  it  was  necessary  to  cook  with  ice.  We  had 
only  about  half  a  cup  of  tea,  though  a  good  fox  stew,  a  great  deal  of  smoke,  and  every  one  felt  miserable. 
Latter  part  of  the  day  has  been  wretched.  It  is  quite  an  ordeal  to  go  out  in  the  cold.  One  invariably 
gets  cold  hands  and  feet,  and  it  is  difficult  to  get  warm  again.     Good  stew  for  supper.     I  saved  nearly  all 


< 

i  1 


m 


1 


408 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


my  hard  bread  for  Christmas,  though  I  need  it  sorely.  Mreakfast  this  morning  for  me  consisted  of  the 
"  son-of-a-gun  "  only,  but  it  was  very  thick— the  proportion  as  large  as  lo  ounces,  including  seal  blubber, 
raisins,  iVc.  I  hope  very  much  we  are  not  to  lose  our  fresh  water.  It  will  be  a  sad  loss  and  necessitate  a 
reduction  of  our  hot  drinks  and  the  few  soups  we  have  hot.  I  hope  Christmas  will  be  better  than  to-day. 
Our  requests  wander  homeward  to  the  roast  turkeys,  mince  pies,  doughnuts,  iV:c.  I  ottered  to  give  any  one 
a  roast  turkey  on  my  return  for  a  single  di)g  biscuit,  but  could  get  no  takers.  A  fjx  has  been  seen  around 
to-day,  but  could  not  be  shot.  Uy  a  tremendous  effort  I  managed  to  go  without  rum  to-day,  in  order  to 
have  it  on  Christmas.  I  shall  then  have  it  in  addition  to  the  punch.  Oh !  this  ilreary  life.  How  often 
my  thoughts  wander  homeward  to  the  tlear  ones  there. 

Memorandum :  Pumpkin  butter. 

December  2^. — HarometL-r,  29.72  [754.87"'"'];  thermometer,  —24  [—31.1°  C.].  Water-hole  not  opentd 
until  about  9  o'clock,  when  Kislingbury  and  Urainard  finally  succeeded  in  bringing  water  after  a  long  sjjell 
by  Kllis.  KIlis  came  in  and  fainted  from  the  effe(  ts  of  the  cold  and  exposure.  It  took  almost  double  amount 
of  fuel  to  cook  our  sujiper  last  night.  The  trouble  with  the  water-hole  seemed  to  throw  a  damper  over  the 
party  and  all  were  ijuite  tired.  By  a  great  effort  I  man.iged  to  save  my  bre.-id  and  my  Sunday  rum ;  also 
nty  piece  of  lemon.  So  my  breakfast  this  morning  consisted  of  nothing  but  coft'ee,  without  anything  else. 
Kvery  one  seemed  ijuite  tired  tluring  the  day  and  there  has  been  little  conversation  until  this  evening,  when 
we  commenced  to  talk  of  what  is  going  on  at  home.  1  re.ad  over  the  bills  of  fare  of  the  birthdays  of  the 
party  this  evening.  My  supper  consisted  of  tea,  Isnglish  beef,  and  a  few  small  pieces  of  bread.  I  put  by 
half  of  my  bread  for  to-nmrrow,  for  I  am  determined  to  have  a  good  day's  allowance  to-morrow.  I 
made  a  little  hash  to-night  of  my  bread  and  meat.  Added  salt  water  and  gunpowder,  and  got  Long  to  warm 
it  on  the  top  of  the  top  funnel.  To-night  is  t!liristmas  F.ve,  and  my  thoughts  are  turned  towards  home. 
God  ])reserve  me  to  see  this  day  next  year,  and  enjoy  it  at  home  with  those  I  love.  To-morrow  is  to  be 
pretty  much  a  repetition  of  Thanksgiving.  I  have  saved  up  my  bread  and  rum.  To-day  has  been  clear 
and  tolembly  calm.  I  think  of  the  children  at  home,  the  Christmas  tree  to-night,  and  the  toys,  &c.  But 
my  fingers  are  too  cold  to  write  more;  and  I  have  the  extra  lamp,  and  cannot  burn  it  long  on  an ount  of 
our  short  allowance  of  blubber.  Kvery  spoonful  of  blubber  oil  used  is  so  much  off  our  food.  I  picture  to 
myself  my  dear  father  and  mother,  sister>,  Harry,  my  nieces  and  brothers-in-law,  all  sitting  around  the  table 
to-morrow.  Turkeys  and  mince  jjies  are  strewn  [strewed]  on  the  table.  Many  thoughts  are  turned  towards 
me,  and  where  I  am  at  this  moment. 

December  25. — Barometer,  29.93  [760.21'""'];  thermometer  —35. 5  [—37-5°  C.]. 

Christmas.  We  have  all  been  talking  and  waiting  anxiously  for  the  hour,  and  now  it  is  here,  and  (5  |).  m.) 
nearly  gone.  Breakfast  consisted  of  the  soup  of  pease  and  carrots,  with  a  little  blubber  and  some  spoon- 
fuls of  potatoes.  This  we  had  at  six  o'clock.  Cloudberries  served  out  (two  cans  to  each  mess).  At  1.30 
]).  m.  Long  lighted  up  for  the  event  of  the  day — dinner.  Dinner  consisted  of  a  fine,  rich,  thick  stew  of  all 
seal  meat,  with  onions,  a  little  blubber,  potatoes,  and  bread  crumbs.  After  this  we  had,  in  the  course  of  an 
hour  or  so,  a  fine,  rich  stew  with  raisins,  a  little  blubber  and  milk.  These  were  pretty  much  the  same  as 
Thanksgiving,  but  the  cooks  made  a  great  deal  that  day,  and  the  meals  seemed  better.  The  cooks  are  now 
preparing  some  fine  chocolate,  and  that  will  be  followed  by  a  jjunch  of  one  gill  of  rum  to  each  man.  The 
party  have  been  in  fine  spirits  to-day.  Cheers  were  given  after  breakfast  for  Lieutenant  Greely,  Corporal 
[Sergeant]  Elison,  Rice,  and  the  two  cooks.  It  was  agreed  that  we  should  give  each  of  the  two  Eskimos 
fifty  cents  from  each  member  of  the  expedition,  to  be  kejit  for  them  till  next  Christmas. 

December  26. — 5  j).  m.  Yesterday  has  passed,  but  I  find  my  notes  of  yesterday  very  imperfect.  The  day 
was  a  great  success.  We  all  had  enough,  or  nearly  enough.  I  had  about  eight  ounces  extra,  which  I  had 
saved  up,  about  one  ounce  of  butter  besides,  and  the  rum  of  the  Sunday  before.  It  was  agreed  early  in  the 
morning  that  nothing  shouUl  be  said  to  mar  the  ple.xsures  of  the  day.  Many  kindly  thoughts  were  expressed 
for  those  at  home,  and  oh !  how  often  we  spoke  of  what  w.-is  going  on  at  our  several  homes.  Many  of  the 
party  gave  the  bill  of  fare  at  their  homes.  Of  course,  I  did  not  forget  to  mention  roast  turkey,  cranberries, 
and  mince  pics.  Reminiscences  of  home.  Invitations  to  future  Christmases — arrangements  for  future 
Christmas  meetings — jjaleocrystic,  and  to  the  Ann  Harbor  [Arbor]  Hotel.  The  reading  of  the  records. 
Some  songs  in  all  languages,  including  French,  Cierman,  Danish,  and  Greenland.  The  birthday  bills  of  fare 
were  read  by  me.  Six  pounds  rice,  three  pounds  milk,  two  pounds  coffee,  two  and  a  quarter  chocolate, 
five  pounds  raisins,  twelve  and  a  half  lemons,  twelve  and  a  half  pounds  bread,  six  and  a  half  pounds  bread 
toast  in  the  stews,  two  pounds  lard,  three  ])ounds  blubber,  eight  pounds  cloudberries,  one  pound  sugar,  25 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXPKDITION. 


409 


ounces  carrots,  50  ounces  jicase,  6  ounces  extract  of  beef,  1  j  10  14  ounces  seal  meat,  4  ounces  of  rum  to  each 
man — somewhere  alK)ut  36  ounces  of  soliti  food  to  each  man.  The  supply  in  the  morning  was  pretty  nuich 
as  usual,  but  the  seal  stew  was  voted  by  all  as  delicious  and  extremely  satisfactory.  I'he  ri( e  was  the  same, 
and  many  were  the  praises  given  to  each.  The  punch  was  extremely  fme.  Chocolate  about  7  o'l  lock, 
and  by  this  time  most  of  us  were  too  full  for  utterance,  and  the  conversation  gradually  slackened  oH',  and 
with  the  songs  the  day  ended. 

To-day,  thermometer  —34.8  [  —  37.1"  C.].  We  have  all  been  feeling  extremely  well  all  day,  nice  anti 
warm  and  comfortable  in  the  extreme.  Several  of  us  ate  loo  muth  yesterday,  but  only  so  nun  h  as  to  feci 
a  little  uncomfortable,  but  we  all  slept  well.  The  cooking  was  a  great  ordeal  to  the  cooks,  on  account  of 
the  smoke,  there  being  very  little  wind,  but  the  cooks  were  given  an  extra  half-gill  of  rum.  They  diil  nobly. 
Bender  relieved  Frederick  to-day,  his  eyes  hurting  him  a  good  deal.  Our  talk  this  morning  was  of  home 
and  our  families.  Dr.  I'avy,  Rice,  Israel,  Hrainard,  and  others,  expressed  themselves  of  having  lonceived  a 
very  high  idea  of  my  father,  from  what  they  had  heard  from  Lieutenant  (Ircely  and  from  me  at  ilifferent 
times.  I  have  invited  them  to  come  to  the  house  particularly.  1  have  extended  a  general  invitation  to  all 
the  members  of  the  expedition.  I  spoke  this  morning  of  the  reunions  of  my  family,  and  how  enjoyable  they 
were.  The  remarks  about  my  father  brought  tears — the  first  time  1  have  shed  tears  in  this  country,  if  1  except 
the  occasion  at  Kskimo  Point,  when  Rice  returned  with  the  (larlington  records— the  only  lime,  i  spoke 
also  of  my  sisters  and  of  Mary  Murray,  whose  many  virtues  1  eulogized  highly.  Breakfast  this  morning  was 
late,  consisting  of  a  soup  made  of  seal  blubber,  which  was  very  good.  I  did  not  feel  very  hungry.  Supper 
of  English  beef,  &c.  I  had  a  few  bread  crumbs,  salt  water,  and  gunpowder,  which  Long  warmed  over 
the  lamj).  We  spoke  a  good  deal  to-day  of  the  prospects  of  getting  across  the  straits  in  the  spring ;  of  Rice's 
preliminary  trip,  of  the  chances  of  finding  food  there,  itc.  The  day  has  been  calm.  We  count  on  240  ra- 
tions as  (juite  certain,  and  the  coal.  Kislingbury  was  kind  enough  to  make  for  each  of  the  party  a  cigarette. 
Many  of  us  are  now  out  of  tobacco  entirely,  and  have  succumbed  to  the  inevitable.  A  fox  has  been  seen 
around  during  the  day,  but  our  efforts  to  shoot  him  not  successful  sn  far.  The  talk  this  evening  is  all  about 
food,  desserts,  &c. 

December  27. — Thermometer,  — 39.5  f  — 39.7°  C.];  barometer,  29.22  [742.17"""].  Calm  and  clear. 
I  exchanged  places  with  Whisler  during  the  forenoon — he  occujiying  my  bag  and  I  his.  Had  very  cold 
numb  hands  all  the  forenoon,  but  now  the  circulation  .seems  to  have  come  back,  though  it  has  run  out  of 
one  of  my  feet.  This  coldness  of  the  extremities  is  due  evidently  to  the  short  rations,  and  .shows  how  food 
is  fuel  in  this  country.  Kentucky  spoken  of  this  morning.  Jewell  made  some  remarks  in  cf)nne(  tion  with 
horse  breeding  in  that  State.  Last  night  (lardincr  commenced  a  book  on  American  shipping,  found  in  the 
cache  here.  We  gleaned  from  this  that  the  Navy  Board,  ordered  before  we  left,  recommended  the  establish- 
ment of  a  formidable  navy,  and  that  the  President  brought  the  same  and  the  subject  of  American  shipping 
before  Congress.  It  is  singular  how  we  thus  pick  up  little  strips  of  information.  Rice  read  .some  on  Mc- 
Carthy's book,  and  thus  the  evening  w.is  prolonged  until  g^i  p.  m.  I  have  amended  my  breakfast  or  hnuh 
with  Lieutenant  Greely.  He  is  to  send  to  California  for  the  recipe  of  the  Chinese  way  of  making  curry 
and  rice  with  chicken.  This  is  to  be  substituted  for  the  tenderloin  steak.  With  Cross  I  am  to  eat  Welsh 
rarebit,  black  cake,  and  egg-nog.  I  am  to  take  to  his  house  the  cake — he  furnishes  the  other  arti(  les.  We 
count  the  days  to  New  Year.  Brainard  shot  a  blue  fox  last  night — weight  3  jiounds  2  ouni!es.  He  followed 
the  animal  some  time,  but  found  him  dead.  This  gives  us  an  extra  fox  next  Sunday.  How  impatiently 
we  watch  the  cook  as  he  divides  out  the  bread  and  meat,  each  one  fearing  he  may  get  a  little  less  than  his 
share.    The  other  mess  now  have  one  of  their  number  to  put  around  the  plates,  but  we  still  trust  to  Long. 

December  28. — Barometer,  8  a.  m.,  30.00  [761.99"""].  Thermometer,  —35  [—37.2°  C  ].  Calm  day, 
with  light  wind  from  the  west.     Nothing  new.     Rope  brought  in  and  cut  up  for  fuel  this  evening. 

Memorandum :  Rice  flour. 

The  house  has  been  e.xceptionally  quiet  to-day,  and  most  of  the  forenoon  passed  with  pretty  much 
every  one  down  in  the  bags — little  or  nothing  said.  No  particular  reason  for  this  ijuiet.  Breakfast  this 
morning  of  chocolate,  bread,  and  butter.  For  supper  we  had  fox  stew,  which  our  mess  found  very  satis- 
factory. The  other  mess  found  theirs  unsatisfactory,  for  some  reason  or  other,  and  a  good  many  growls 
came  from  that  side.  When  we  have  these  stews  or  soups  eight  pots  arc  boiled,  four  to  each  mess,  two  of 
stew  and  two  of  tea,  or  whatever  other  drink  it  may  be.  The  rope  this  evening  made  a  very  bad  smoke, 
extremely  disagreeable.  This  evening  a  question  about  the  fuel  brought  up  the  sum  of  the  time  it  will  last  us. 
It  seems  we  have  some  sixteen  hard  wood  barrels  on  hand.     Several  expressed  the  opinion  that  there  was 


410 


TUB  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


lil 


nothing  to  fear  particularly  on  this  score.  Long  said  his  experience  in  cooking  with  seal  blubber  showed  it  very 
satisfactory;  so  that  if  we  killed  seal  here,  by  which  we  can  prolong  our  stay,  the  blubber  will  furnish  fuel. 
Lieutenant  (ireely  seemed  obliged  lo  look  on  the  dark  side  of  the  subject,  and  directed  Sergeant  Urainard 
to  issue  10  pounds  of  blubber  for  experiment  on  the  subject.  This  is  unfortunate,  as  it  will  diminish  our 
food  by  that  much  blubber.  'I"he  water  still  holds  out,  but  there  is  no  knowing  when  we  will  have  to  melt 
ice.  'i'he  two  messes  alternate  in  cooking  first.  I  am  now  eking  out  my  tobacco  with  tea.  To-day  I  found 
two  or  three  small  pieces  of  raw  fox— mere  scraps  on  the  floor — and,  brushing  the  dampness  off,  ate  them  with 
great  satisfaction.     Ohio  dwelt  upon  to-day. 

D((rml>er  29. — Barometer,  30.15  1765,80'""'],     Thermometer,  —31.5  |— 35.3°  C.J. 

Memorandum :  Cold  breast  of  veal  stuffed.     Got  Rice's  list  of  dishes. 

Heavy  blow  from  the  west  Ki.st  night,  but  the  wind  went  down  to-day.  To-day  has  been  a  market  day, 
every  body  trading  rations,  bread  for  butter,  meat  for  bread,  bre.id  for  soup,  iVc.  A  great  deal  of  talking  done, 
but  not  very  many  solid  trades  made.  I  traded  about  half  of  tomorrow  morning's  "sonofa-gun"  for  about 
eight  and  a  half  ounces  of  bread — this  was  with  Hiederbick  and  Salor.  'I'hen  1  gave  Urainard  about  one 
and  one-half  ounces  of  butter  for  two  dog-biscuits  (3  ounces).  I  do  not  believe  in  this  trading,  and  do  not 
think  I  shall  make  any  more.  Michigan  was  dwelt  upon  to-day.  'I'here  is  now  a  perceptible  difference 
in  the  amount  of  light.  Only  two  more  days  of  this  year,  thank  God!  The  rope  burns  very  well.  Got 
through  supper  about  3.30  o'clock.  Kislingbury  protested  to-day  against  the  experiment  ordered  by  Lieu- 
tenant Grcely  lo  ascertain  the  amount  of  blubber  necessary  to  cook  our  tea.  1  took  occasion  also  lo 
express  my  disajjproval.  We  do  not  know  yet  that  the  wood  will  not  last  through,  and  the  experiment  can 
be  as  well  made  when  the  time  comes  as  now.  Cross's  feet  are  worse,  and  Schneider  sawed  the  wood  today 
and  chopped  it.     Bender  did  the  sawing  and  splitting  yesterday. 

Decemher  30. — Barometer,  30.00  [761.99"""].  Thermometer,  —21  [  —  29.4°  C.].  Last  night's  "  market- 
ing "  was  continued  late  into  the  night,  and  much  impatience  was  expressed  for  this  morning  with  its  "  son-of-a- 
gun."    Schneider  with  some  one  else  struck  up  a  bargain  at  3  o'clock  this  morning. 

Memorandum :  Beef  h  la  mode. 

This  morning  came  at  last.  Some  had  a  good  deal  more  than  they  could  well  eat  with  comfort,  and  some 
had  much  less.  The  result  of  my  bargaining  was  that  I  had  something  more  than  one  third  of  my  plate  of 
the  "sonofa-gun,"  and  one-fourth  of  my  coffee;  but  then  1  had  also  about  12  ounces  of  bread  and  i  ounce 
of  butter.  I  ate  only  four  ounces  of  bread  and  have  brought  the  rest  over.  This  evening  got  issued 
me  about  four  ounces  hard  bread  for  the  night  and  morning  (the  rest  going  in  the  fox  stew),  and  this  I  have 
not  touched,  finding  the  .stew  sufficient.  Thus  I  will  have  plenty  for  New  Year's  day.  Biederbick  had  so 
much  "  son-of-a-gun  "  as  the  result  of  his  bargain  that  he  overate  himself,  and  is  suffering  from  stomach  ache. 
1  saved  to  day's  rum  for  to-morrow  night,  when  I  shall  probably  remain  up  to  see  the  old  year  out.  The 
"son-of-a-gun"  this  morning  was  particularly  fine,  and  the  stew  this  evening  equally  so.  Very  little  con- 
versation, and  but  little  to-day  on  the  subject  of  eating.  F'ull  meals  seem  to  have  the  effect  of  inducing 
silence,  the  party  lying  down  and  enjoying  comfortable  repose.  It  is  singular  how  warm  and  comfort.ible  a 
good  meal  makes  one.  Came  on  blowing  to-day  about  noon,  and  a  storm  is  now  raging  from  the  east. 
The  rope  makes  lots  of  smoke,  but  it  is  owing  a  good  deal  to  the  heat  and  the  time  occupied  in  cooking. 
This  morning  the  smoke  was  dense  and  blinding.  This  evening  much  belter,  on  account  of  the  wind.  I 
am  suffering  with  my  eyes,  which  seem  to  have  been  affected  by  the  smoke. 

Memorandum:  Cracked  wheat  with  honey  and  milk. 

December  j,\. — Barometer,  30.02  [762.49"""].  Thermometer, —21  f  — 29.4''C.].  Thermometer  yesterday 
morning  at  i  o'clock  inside  the  house,  •+•  24  [  — 4.4°  C.  |.  Storm  raging  all  Lost  night  and  all  day  to-day  from  the 
east.  This  evening  it  seems  to  have  stopped.  About  10  a.  m.  it  was  discovered  that  the  water  hole  was 
frozen  up,  and  a  new  hole  nearer  the  .shore  was  commenced.  We  worked  at  the  new  hole  from  this  time 
until  4.15  p.  m.,  when  Brainard  succeeded  in  striking  water.  It  was  very  severe  work.  The  wind  blew  in 
gusts  very  hard.  All  the  well  ones  went  out  except  Lieutenant  Greely.  Those  who  did  not  go  out  were 
Lieutenant  Greely,  Klison,  Jewell,  Gardiner,  Henry,  the  Doctor,  Biederbick,  Crojss,  Bender  and  Whisler, 
and  the  two  Eskimos;  also  the  two  cooks.  The  two  cooks  and  the  Eskimos  and  the  doctor,  and  Biederbick, 
do  not  take  part  in  keeping  open  the  wafer  hole.  Whisler  was  occupied  in  cutting  up  the  wood.  This 
evening  was  fixed  upon  for  trying  the  blubber  to  cook  by,  but  it  has  been  postponed.  The  water  used  by 
the  doctor  for  dressing  the  frost  bites  was  warmed  up  to-day  for  the  first  time  over  the  blubber  lamp.  This 
might  have  been  done  right  along.     Instead  about  three  ounces  of  alcohol  per  day  have  been  used.     Break- 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPKDITION. 


411 


fast  this  morning  consisted  of  ox-tail  soup  and  supper  of  Englisii  nic.  My  rum  issued  yesterday  1  will 
drink  to-night,  as  I  want  to  sit  up  and  see  the  old  year  out.  Supper  was  delayed  until  about  5  oVloek  liy 
the  work  on  the  water  hole.  We  all  got  cold  feet  by  going  out.  My  own  became  painfully  cold,  and  are 
still  very  cold.  It  is  discomfort  in  the  extreme.  How  glad  we  all  are  that  the  end  of  the  year  lias  been 
reached  again  can  hardly  be  exi)ressed.  Rice  expects  to  start  across  about  the  end  of  January.  We  ha«l  to 
cut  down  through  about  four  feet  [i.im]  of  ice  to  reach  water. 

yiinutiry  i,  1884  (Tuesday).  —  Daypassed  in  bag.  Lieutenant  Greely  came  over  and  paid  mc  a  visit  shortly 
after  breakfast.  He  told  me  that  the  doctor  had  made  overtures  with  him  to  make  allowance — [alliance]  «le- 
fensive  and  OiTensive  [owing  to]  remarks  some  time  ago — but  lliat  he  had  declined.  He  told  me  also  that  some 
time  ago  he  feli  certain  that  the  doctor  was  eating  up,  during  the  night.  Corporal  [Sergeant]  Klison's  allowance 
of  bread.  Was  within  two  and  a  half  feet  [.76'"]  of  the  doctor  at  the  time,  and  would  swear  to  the  fact  before 
a  court.  He  thought  it  right  *o  mention  the  fact  to  Hrainard,  but  had  said  nothing  to  any  one  else  about  it. 
That  this,  as  well  as  former  matters,  he  should  make  th-;  subject  of  report  to  the  projjer  authorities  on  his 
return,  to  pet  upon  as  they  chose.  He  told  me  that  Klison's  hands  and  feet  were  soporating  [suppurating]  fast, 
and  that  the  line  of  demarkation  was  becoming  clearer ;  that  amputation  would  evidently  have  to  be  pe. 
formed,  but  th.it  nothing  would  be  attempted  here,  but  at  Littleton  Island.  All  this  seems  to  have  bi-en  gained 
mostly, or  altogether,  f;om  Hiederbick.  He  [Lieutenant  C'lreely]  told  me  he  would  do  all  in  his  power  t<i  aid  me 
in  getting  a  staff  appointment  on  my  return.  That,  if  I  desired,  I  could  have  three  or  four  weeks  on  my  return 
nominally  on  duty,  but  with  little  or  nothing  to  do  particularly,  at  the  Sign.al  OITic.c,  and  that,  if  I  desireil, 
there  would  be  no  trouble  in  getting  three  or  four  months'  leave  of  absence.  Salor  went  out  to-day  and  cut 
out  water  hole  without  trouble.  I  ate  to-day  a  good  breakfast  of  rice  and  tomatoes  with  some  bread.  At 
noon  I  ate  three  dog-biscuit  with  butter,  and  a  little  later  we  had  cloudberries  and  rum  anil  lemon.  Supper 
consisted  of  tine  seal  meat  stew.  While  eating  this  I  had  the  misfortune  to  spill  my  bread,  and  in  jiicking  it 
up  spilled  the  bast  drop  of  my  tea.  Very  kindly.  Lieutenant  (Jreely,  Long,  and  Hiederbick  g.ive  me  a  little,  so 
that  the  cupful  was  almost  regained.  Before  I  got  my  stew,  Schneider  offered  me  seven  dog-biscuit  and  next 
Sunday's  scanty  addition  of  the  "  son-of-a-gun "  for  my  stew  this  evening,  but  afterwards  changed  his 
mind.  When  Ellis  perceived  I  had  spilled  my  tea,  he  offered  to  trade  me  h.ilf  a  cupful,  but  as  he  took 
advantage  of  my  misfortune  I  declined.  We  have  all  been  feeling  remarkably  high-spirited  to-day  on  the 
coming  of  the  new  year,  and  this  evening  all  seem  hopeful.  We  now  speak  fretpiently  of  going  home  this 
ye.ar.  We  are  all  in  high  hopes.  I  go  over  to-night  and  take  Jewell's  place  in  Lieutenant  Oreely's  bag, 
with  the  latter  and  Israel.  The  condition  of  the  party  is  far  superior  to  anything  I  expected,  and  the  future 
bids  well  to  come  out  all  right.  How  my  thoughts  wander  homeward  to  the  dear  ones  there !  Are  they 
thinking  of  me  ? 

yaniinry  t. — Barometer,  30.63  [777.99"""];  thermometer,  —28  [—333'  C.|.  After  supper  la.st  night 
I  went  over  to  Lieutenant  Greely's  bag  and  spent  the  night  there,  Jewell  taking  my  jjlace  here.  My  hea  y 
feast  of  food  warmed  me  up  like  a  stove  and  I  slept  well  through  the  night,  waking  up  only  at  4  o'clock 
this  morning.  I  remained  in  the  bag  until  some  time  in  the  afternoon,  and  then  got  up  and  cut  open  the 
water-hole  and  emptied  slop  bucket.  It  was  a  fine  morning,  and  I  perceived  considerably  more  light  than 
for  some  time  past.  Calm  and  clear.  About  noon  I  came  back  to  my  own  bag.  Jewell  took  a  chew  of 
my  tobacco,  telling  me  of  it,  however.  I  did  not  like  the  thing  very  much.  Michigan  talked  about  this 
morning.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  told  us  all  about  Detroit.  The  blubber  lamp,  a  butter  can,  forms 
the  lamp.  The  issue  week  commences  to-morrow;  v.e  get  an  issue  of  American  bacon  (raw)  Monday 
night.  Issue  supplies:  3  cans  coffee,  2  chocolate,  2  English  meat,  i  corn,  i  extract  of  beef,  2  cans  jjcaac, 
I  can  carrots,  i  can  milk,  52  ounces  bacon,  6j4  pounds  fox,  3^  pounds  seal,  72  oujjccs  of  dog-biscuit, 
8  ounces  rice,  14  ounces  raisins,  38  ounces  onions,  35  ounces  potatoes,  13  ounces  English  f ',!;colate,  31 
ounces  tea,  91  ounces  blubber.  The  marketing  [bargaining]  still  goes  on,  though  not  [amoi  lj  , -iiny.  I 
do  not  like  this  thing.  It  resembles  gambling,  and  I  think  the  tendency  is  bad.  In  our  hun^.r  we  are 
apt  to  take  advantage  of  the  cravings  of  those  about  us.  Some  trade  meat  for  bread.  I  have  trade<l 
as  yet  only  what  I  did  on  Saturday  and  Sunday  last.  Our  stew  last  night  consisted  of  seal,  fox,  blubber, 
potatoes,  hard  bre.id,  and  onions,  and  a  half  can  sausage,  and  was  very  fine.  The  result  of  the  experiment 
to-day  is  that  one  pound  of  blubber  will  raise  to  the  bo'ling-point  two  and  a  half  gallons  of  water,  and 
leave  one-eighth  of  its  weight  in  cracklings.  The  tea  boiled  over  and  put  the  fire  out  after  the  first  pot 
was  boiled.  The  first  pot  occupied  forty  minutes  in  boiling.  Supper  was  cooked  afterwards  with  the 
wood.  Soup  this  morning  and  English  meat  to-night.  New  water-hole  started  to-day,  so  as  to  be  on  the 
safe  side. 


Si     , 

'illi 

412 


TOE  liADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


'J-ixiiiiary  T,. — naromcter,  30.50  [774.69"""];  thermometer,  —31  [— 35-0°  C]  about  noon.  Clear  and 
ralm.  New  moon  Illinois  discussed  during  the  forenoon.  Frederick  had  a  good  deal  to  say  about 
Chicago.  Pea  soup  and  tea  for  breakfast  this  morning.  Pease,  potatoes,  onion  powder,  blubber.  For 
supper  to-night,  corned  beef.  I  gave  my  bread  for  the  night  and  morning,  and  also  about  one-third  issue 
of  butter,  for  an  extra  four  ounces  of  corned  beef.  I  thus  had  half  a  pound  of  meat  for  supper.  This 
I  got  Long  to  warm  up  slightly  on  the  stove.  Felt  a  little  disappointed  that  I  did  not  eat  it  cold.  I 
gave  Bender  h.alf  my  butter,  and  promised  him  one  of  the  two  dog  biscuits  I  got  Saturday  night  for  his  pea 
soup  in  the  morning.  Tlie  issue  of  butter  for  the  issue  week  made  to-day.  I  have  left  about  three- 
([uarter  ounces.  Brainard  shot  at  a  fox  this  evening  and  drew  the  blood,  but  did  not  j^ct  the  animal. 
Had  very  cold  feet,  which  made  me  miserable  all  night.  Since  I  have  taken  my  half  pound  of  meat 
this  evening  my  feet  have  become  warm  and  comfortable. 

yaniiivy  4 — Barometer,  30.10  [764.53""'];  thermometer, —34  [  — 36.7°  C.j.  Day  clear  and  pretty 
good  until  this  evening,  when  it  is  somewhat  windy.  New  ice-hole  was  started  yesterday,  to  be  ready  for 
the  present  one  closing  up.  Brainard  reports  that  footsteps  were  found  around  the  commissary  leading  up 
to  the  west  side,  and  a  slight  cut  in  the  canvas  of  the  roof.  On  further  examination  he  found  that  a!)out  a 
(piartcr  of  a  pound  of  bacon  had  been  bitten  off  a  piece  which  was  at  hand  inside.  As  the  bacon  was  all 
right  last  night,  the  thing  must  have  occurred  to-day  some  time.  New  stove,  or  rather  one  of  the  two  old 
ones,  started  to-day.  Eight  minutes  occupied  this  evening  in  boiling  first  pot  of  stew,  and  seven  minutes 
for  the  second  pot.  This  is  better  than  the  old  stove.  This  morning  I  enjoyed  a  fine  jjca  soup  from  the 
other  mess,  and  this  evening  we  hau  a  particularly  fine  fox  soup  or  stew.  I  have  rather  preferred  the  soups, 
though  only  our  canned  soups  are  gener.iUy  termed  soujis.  Several  trades  were  made  to-day.  I  traded 
Sunday's  "son-of-a-gun"  with  Jewell  for  two  issues — 8  ounces — corned  beef,  which  I  [will]  give  him  next 
week,  and  in  addition  his  allowance  of  bread  to-night — about  4^3  ounces.  Afterwards  I  agreed  to  give  Fred- 
erick, the  cook,  my  "son-of-a-gun"  the  following  Sunday  for  his  this  coming  Sunday,  and  in  addition  I  give 
him  one  <log-l)iscuit.  Connell  bet  on  a  shot  made  by  Brainard  at  a  fox  to-day,  and  lost  his  Sunday's  half 
gill  of  rum  thereby.  We  are  all  still  in  excellent  spirits  and  good  health,  and  look  forward  with  much  con- 
fidence to  getting  home  this  coming  summer.  We  count  the  days.  I  have  pretty  much  made  up  my  mind 
to  stop  this  trading.  Lieutenant  llreely  read  some  geographical  statistics  this  morning,  which  is  all  the 
geography  we  have  had  to-day. 

yaniiary  5. — Barometer,  29.60  [751.83"'"'];  thermometer,  —35  [  —  37.2°  C.].  Breakfast  this  morning 
ox-tail  soup  with  rice;  very  good.  My  supper  consisted  of  regular  issue  of  English  meat,  one  dog-biscuit, 
and  three  small  pieces  of  hard  bread.  We  had  tea  at  both  meals.  Brainard  shot  a  black  fox  last  night.  I 
won  half  a  gill  of  rum  from  Connell  on  it.  Three  other  foxes  were  seen  during  the  day,  and  some  fired  at. 
I  w.as  offered  by  Jewell  about  one-half  of  his  "sonof-a-gun"  to-morrow  morning  for  the  two  half  gills  of 
rum,  but  withdrew,  objections  made  against  the  bargain  by  Lieutenant  Greely.  I  have  since  swapped  this 
rum  for  Connell's  butter  issued  next  week— about  2>V\  ounces.  Brainard  found  another  slit  in  the  canvas 
covering  the  commissary  storehouse.  No  trace  as  to  who  the  thief  is.  To-morrow's  "son-of-a-gun"  I  give 
to  Jewell  for  eight  ounces  of  meat  and  4  ounces  of  hard  bread.  Frederick  gives  me  his  "son-of-a-gun" 
to-morrow  morning  and  I  give  him  mine  the  following  Sunday.  'I'lie  "son-of  a-guns"  are  great  favorites. 
'I'here  is  now  a  decided  sentiment  against  this  trading,  and  many  of  us  think  of  stopping  off  to-day.  Elison 
seems  very  hopeful.  Wind  is  now  blowing  from  the  north.  I  was  out  to-diiy  a  little  while  down  at  the 
new  water-hole.     One  cold  foot  to-day,  and  to-night  both  are  like  ice,  which  promises  a  bad  night's  rest. 

yanmiry  6. — Barometer,  29.40  [746.75'""'];  thermometer,  —24  [—31.1°  C.].  Another  day  past  and 
another  Sunday  nearer  Rice's  departure  and  the  end  of  this  misery. 

Memorandum:  Pare  pine-apple  slices,  covered  with  sugar,  and  a  hole  cut  in  the  middle  of  each — then 
replaced  and  the  core  filled  with  sugar,  and  port  wine  jioured  in. 

Long  got  too  much  s-ilt  water  in  the  "son-of-a-gun"  this  morning.  I  found  Frederick's  "son-of-a-gun" 
very  fine.  Jewell  ate  two  "son-of-a-guns"  and  made  himself  half  sick.  Several  others  stuffed  themselves 
without  much  more  benefit.  Day  has  passed  rapidly,  though  I  have  been  in  somewhat  low  spirits.  Con- 
nell enjoyed  my  rum,  but  now  it  is  all  over  and  I  have  his  butter  to  look  forward  to.  There  has  been  no 
trading  to-day,  and  the  business  is  to  be  abandoned  or  will  die  a  natural  death.  I  do  not  think  I  shall  do 
any  more.  Fine  soup  or  stew  to-night  of  fox,  bread,  i\;c.  I  was  able  to  save  a  good  deal  of  bread  for  next 
Sunday  and  to-morrow  morning.     The  days  draw  near  toward  Rice's  departure.     We  all  sufier  a  good  deal 


THE  LADY  FRAXKLrX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


413 


from  cold  feet,  &c.  To-night  Rico,  Brainard,  and  I  are  to  read  our  hills  of  fare  for  the  breakfast  to  be  given 
by  Jewell.  Day  tolerably  calm  with  the  moon  now  shining.  Conversation  ai)oiit  dishes  somewhat  slack 
now  and  more  given  to  our  departure  for  Littleton  Islaml  and  expected  help. 

Memorandum:  Cream  cakes,  look  like  eggs. 

Some  of  the  jiarty  do  not  go  out  for  certain  purposes  for  a  week  or  more.  Seventeen  days  has  been 
the  longest  thus  far  any  one  has  gone  without  a  passage. 

Memorandum:  Cranberry piL\ 

We  now  have  a  fox  for  the  two  messes,  half  to  each,  until  the  middle  of  February ;  and  un  the  last  two 
weeks,  when  we  shall  need  more  food,  we  shall  have  two  foxes.  23  of  these  animals  killeil  to  date.  How 
often  I  think  of  tiiosc  at  home.  Oh,  God!  what  a  dream  it  secnis  to  think  of  seeing  them  once  more.  Oh! 
my  dear  father,  mother,  and  sisters.  One  lai.ip  (blubber)  burns  constantly,  and  at  times  we  have  one  or  two 
extra  ones,  as  is  needed. 

yii/ii/a'y  7. —  Harometer, ;  thermometer, —31   [— 3S'0°  tJ.].     Breakfast— soup  of  string  beans^ 

eggs,  and  hard  bread,  with  chocolate.  Day  somewhat  windy  from  the  west.  SutTered  with  cold  feet  all  day. 
Bowels  rather  loose.  Minnesota  dwelt  upon  to-day  by  Lieutenant  Greely,  with  some  remarks  made  by 
Kislingbury.  Last  night  Biederbick  kept  us  awake  until  10^  by  a  very  good  description  of  home  life  in  fon| 
his  father's  farm  in  Walden.  Supper  this  evening — raw  American  bacon,  bread,  and  tea.  The  bacon  eaten 
cold  and  very  much  enjoyed  by  every  one.  Some  warmed  it  up  in  their  tea.  Tiiis  is  the  first  issue  of  this 
meat,  which  is  to  be  continued  on  Mondays  hereafter.  This  evening  Brainard  rc[)ortcd  some  more  discov- 
eries. Some  one  has  left  a  second  deposit  in  a  can  in  the  vestibule,  as  we  call  the  passage  way.  Brainard 
reports  also  that  some  one  has  taken  a  (piarter  pound  of  bacon  left  in  the  stearine  pot  by  the  cook.  The 
loss  will  fall  on  their  mess.  Some  one  also  scraped  up  the  oil  out  of  the  blubber  lamp.  Some  one  has  also 
recently  made  a  hole  with  an  axe  in  a  barrel  of  bread  and  taken  about  a  pound  or  two.  All  these  acts  are 
doubtless  by  the  same  individual,  and  many  are  the  execrations  called  down  on  his  head.  This  morning 
Whisler,  in  endeavoring  to  carry  out  a  tub  of  urine  for  Lsu.el,  whose  duty  it  was  to  do  this  as  well  as  open 
the  water-hole,  had  the  misfortune  to  stumble  and  spill  half  of  the  contents  on  the  three-man  bag  that  Brainard 
and  Frederick  sleep  in.  This  will  not  ilry  and  will  increase  the  misery  of  their  life  during  the  rest  of  our 
stay  here.  I  have  felt  chilly  and  cold  to-day  and  in  low  spirits.  To-night  Lieutenant  (ireely  is  reading  out 
of  his  diary  for  1883.  Oh!  how  I  long  for  the  time  when  this  life  shall  enil.  Only  those  now  leave  the 
house  during  the  day  who  have  to.  Most  of  the  party  keep  i>rctty  well  down  in  their  bags,  only  getting  up 
at  meals  and  a  few  other  times.  No  trailing  to-day.  It  is  to  be  hoped  it  will  die  out.  A  great  deal  of  frost 
is  now  overhead.  Brainard  reports  about  18  pounds  of  American  bread  frozen — not  so  much  as  he  expected. 
This  can  readily  be  used  in  the  s'.ews. 

yaiiuary  8. — Barometer,  29.05  [737.86"'"'];  thermometer,  — 28  [ — 2)2)-^  ^•J-  ^--ilni  during  the  morn- 
ing, but  about  noon  commenced  blowing,  and  blew  (juite  strong  from  the  west — still  continuing.  Breakfast — 
pea  soup,  extract  mutton,  anil  tea.  The  extract  was  tainted  a  good  deal,  but  we  ate  it  all  the  same.  Dinner 
consisted  of  a  very  thin  seal  stew,  in  which  we  were  all  much  disa])pointed.  That  1  got  had  liardly  a  bone 
or  piece  of  meat  in  it.  The  day  has  seemed  very  long.  I  have  been  cold  and  chilly  all  day,  with  very  cold 
hands  and  feet.  Feel  very  much  down  at  [inj  the  mouth.  So  it  is  always — sometmies  my  spirits  are  pretty 
good,  and  sometimes  very  bad.  I,  however,  went  out  to-day  to  work  at  the  ice-hole,  and  dug  away  at  the 
old  one,  which  shows  signs  of  giving  out.  Slept  poorly  last  night.  Last  night  we  had  reailing — Regulations, 
History  of  Our  Own  Times,  and  Koningsbee  (?)  fConingsby].  It  kept  us  awake,  mostly,  until  10  o'clock. 
Iowa  was  discussed  this  morning.  There  is  a  great  abatement  on  the  talk  of  food.  Cold  worries  me  now 
more  than  hunger.  God  !  how  glad  I  shall  be  when  this  existence  comes  to  a  close.  We  all  count  the  days 
and  weeks,  and  try  to  make  time  fly  faster  by  anticipation.  Rice  will  start  on  the  2d  proximo ;  he  will 
have  a  pound  of  bread,  a  pound  of  meat  per  day  for  a  week  before  he  starts — this  in  addition  to  the  vegetable 
soups,  I  believe.  Jans  [Jens]  has  the  same  ration.  I  feel  an  inertness  that  makes  anything  like  action  of 
every  kind  very  distasteful,  and  it  reiiuires  a  great  effort  to  do  anything.  Frederik,  Eskimo,  thinks  the 
straits  are  frozen  up  and  all  right.  Jans  [Jens]  expresses  some  doubts,  I  understand.  Beautiful  moonlight 
now.  The  light  is  increasing  fast.  We  had  a  discussion  on  English  history  last  night;  also  the  President  of 
the  United  States.    The  party  are  all  about  the  same;  no  signs  of  scurvy  as  yet  have  shown  themselves. 

Memorandum :  Cranberry  pie. 

yaniiary  cf. — Barometer,  29.31  [744.46"""];  thermometer,  —29  [  — 33. 9°C.].  The  average  temperature 
in  the  house  here  is  about  +30  to  +32  [—1.1°  C.  to  0.0°  C],  at  times,  when  the  stove  is  lighted,  or  just 


ill 


(fi 


ill 


^  li 


if 


414 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


1 .11  i 


afterwards.  At  other  times  it  is  about  +26  [—3.3°  C],  or  thereabouts.  Fine  day.  All  day  calm  and  clear, 
with  beautiful  moonlight.  Breakfast  of  seal-skin  soup  and  coffee;  English  beef,  with  tea,  for  supjier.  We  all 
notice  a  saltiness  in  the  tea,  &c.,  now,  which  is  only  to  be  accounted  for  by  supposing  the  sea  water  to  find 
itself  into  the  lake  in  some  way.  At  high  tide  there  is  very  litde  difference.  I  went  out  to-day  for  a  few 
minutes  and  worked  on  the  new  water-hole.  Some  of  the  rest  went  out.  It  is  going  down  slowly.  Missouri 
talked  about  to-day.  I  said  something  about  St.  Louis  during  the  riots,  and  also  of  Kansas  City.  Cold  hands 
and  feet  alternate  with  me  and  with  the  rest,  with  few  exceptions.  When  not  cold  in  the  hands  or  feet  it  is 
generally  my  body.  Ralston  gave  a  very  interesting  description  last  night  of  his  early  days  on  a  farm  in 
Iowa.  I^escribed  country  dishes  and  customs,  &c.  I  go  out  sometimes  in  the  alley-way  and  get  my  feet 
warm  by  sitting  on  the  doctor's  medicine-box,  with  my  feet  on  the  stone  used  by  the  cooking  stove.  The 
stove  is  a  mere  cylinder,  somewhat  smaller  at  top  than  [atj  bottom,  about  as  large  as  a  good  size  bucket.  It 
has  a  door.  It  is  cold  and  chilly  in  the  alley-way  during  the  ilay,  and  one  is  in  the  way  of  the  cooks  at  that 
time,  or  in  the  way  of  Whisler,  who  is  sawing  the  wood.  We  commence  on  the  barrels  about  the  11th  inst. 
Cross,  Schneider,  and  Bender  keep  down  in  their  bags  more  than  any  one  else. 

Memorandum:  Mrs.  O'Shea's  figs. 

Bowels  opened — took  a  dose  of  opium,  which  the  doctor  managed  to  spare.  We  are  so  short  of  med- 
icine that  I  have  had  difficulty  in  getting  openers,  and  had  to  use  salt  water,  &:c.  The  health  of  the  party 
and  our  spirits  are  surprising.  I  am  now  smoking  a  mixture  of  tobacco,  tea  leaves,  and  birch  bark.  We 
are  discussing  notes  to-night,  and  have  now  got  on  tlie  subject  of  pigs  for  broiling.  Visions  of  Fort  Conger 
and  everything  left  behind  there  in  the  shape  of  food  freiiuently  come  up.    Time  flies  fast. 

yaiuiary  10, — Barometer,  29.97  [761.22"""];  thermometer,  —28.5  \—Z'h'^^  C.J. 

Memorandum :  St.  Louis,  between  4th  and  5th  streets,  opposite  City  Hall,  large  establishment,  where 
very  fine  pastry,  fancy  cakes,  iS:c.,  may  be  obtained.  Olive  street,  between  4th  and  5th,  sugared  fruits,  place 
kept  by  Italians.  6th  street,  corner  of  Pine — Silver  Moon,  quite  a  cheap  restaurant;  fine  dinner,  50  cents. 
7th  street,  corner  of  Pine,  fine  bakery,  where  excellent  bread  and  something  fine  in  the  way  of  tapioca  and 
cocoanut  pies  may  be  obtained. 

Very  fine  day  to-day,  almost  perfectly  calm.  Moon  very  bright.  Dr.  Pavy  spoke  of  St.  Louis,  and  I  ot 
Kansas  City  and  St.  Louis.  Other  notes  of  Missouri  finished  uj)  this  State.  Corporal  [SergeantJ  Elison  had 
both  feet  taken  off  at  the  ankle  within  the  last  few  days.  They  were  in  such  condition  that  it  s>'f;ms  it  was 
done  without  his  knowing  it.  A  temporary  separation  was  only  attempted.  Another  and  regular  amputa- 
tion will  have  to  be  done  at  Littleton  Island.  Two  fingers  were  also  taken  off.  All  this  was  done  without  his 
knowing  it.  The  doctor  drew  some  pretty  pictures  last  night  of  farming  life  in  Missouri,  and  gave  his  fish- 
ing experience,  &c.  We  find  a  taste  of  salt  in  our  tea  and  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  salt  water 
finds  its  way  in  the  lake.  Will  have  to  melt  ice  if  this  thing  continues.  New  hole  progresses  slowly. 
Breakfast  this  morning  of  seal-skin  soup,  tea,  and  bread.  Supper  to-night — corned  beefand  bread.  Issue  of 
butter  made  for  to-night.  Got  8  ounces  of  corned  beef  from  Jewell,  in  addition.  My  own  supper  con- 
sisted of  4  ounces  of  corned  beef,  all  my  bread,  and  about  two  ounces  of  butter.  I  now  have  for  Sunday  a 
half  a  pound  of  corned  beef,  three  and  a  half  ounces  butter,  about  half  pound  of  bread,  in  lieu  of  the  "son- 
of-a-gun,"  which  1  gave  to  Frederick.  No  fox  seen  around  for  some  days.  Was  not  out  to-day.  Bowels 
loose  to-day.  1  have  stopped  my  trading  and  the  rest  of  the  party  have  done  very  litde.  Intermittent  talk 
on  the  subject  of  food  and  dishes  during  the  day.  I  dreamed  of  home  last  night.  Gardiner's  fingers  slowly 
improving.  The  frost  bites  of  various  ones  get  well  very  slowly.  I  will  have  to  stop  smoking  tea  leaves  and 
the  bark.     It  seems  to  have  had  a  bad  effect  upon  me. 

January  11. — Barometer,  30.03  I762.7S"'"'];  thermometer,  —21.5  [  —  29,7°  C.].  Day  clear  and 
tolerably  calm.  Day  passed  very  much  as  usual.  Eating  all  my  bread  last  night,  I  had  nothing  for  break- 
fast but  a  cup  of  coffee  and  a  little  butter.  Found  a  salty  taste,  however,  which  spoiled  it  to  a  great  extent. 
I  felt  some  pain  about  the  bowels  during  the  day ;  to-night  as  well  as  usual.  Our  spirits  remain  good, 
though  some  at  times  complain  of  feeling  badly.  Elison's  feet  are  off,  and  some  of  his  fingers.  There  is 
now  a  perceptible  difference  in  the  amount  of  light. 

Memorandum:  Nova  Scotia  homespun,  Halifax. 

Supper  to-night — fine  fox  stew.  I  have  not  touched  my  bread  or  butter  to-night.  I  have  saved  enough 
for  a  "pat"  for  myself  Sunday.  I  will  have  bread,  meat,  and  butter.  Kansas  s[)oken  of  to-day.  Not  very 
much  said  about  the  State,  however;  at  least  not  as  much  as  expected.  Reading  every  night,  nearly,  or 
some  personal  experience. 


['t'V 


t  ■ 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


415 


Memorandum :   Meerschaum  pipe,  Halifax. 

yanuiiry  12. — Barometer,  ;  thermometer,  —18.5   [  —  28.1°  C.].     Sick;  diarrhea  jjiis  evening. 

Smoking  of  anything  but  tobacco  forbidden  by  Lieutenant  Greely.  Cross's,  Schneider's,  and  Linn's  moutlis 
looking  badly.  I  went  out,  but  tlid  not  have  time  to  get  out  (juick  enough;  had  a  very  hard  time.  1  used 
butter  can  in  the  vestibule ;  threw  it  outside  then. 

yanuary  13. — Barometer,  29.86  [758.43'""'];  thermometer,  —21  [—29.4°  C.J.  Bread  ration  increased 
half  ounce.  Party  generally  in  better  spirits.  I  found  myself  feeling  so  badly  after  breakfast  that  I  told 
Connell,  the  next  in  turn,  he  would  have  to  go  out  and  cut  the  water-hole.  The  salty  taste  to  the  water 
in  the  lake  still  continues,  and  to-d.ay  ice  was  tied  over  the  blubber  lamp  and  more  or  less  water  melted  out 
in  diis  way.  It  makes  a  vast  difference  in  the  taste  of  the  drinks.  We  use  with  the  stews  more  or  less  salt 
water,  anyhow.  Felt  very  weak  and  badly  all  day.  My  breakfast  consisted  of  my  savings,  &:c.,  and  was 
quite  large.  I  had  one  "son-o'f-a-gun,"  but  had  two  cans  of  hard  bread  (probably  12  or  14  ounces),  one 
issue  butter,  less  that  saved  by  cook  to  go  into  the  "son-of-a  gun,"  (3^4  ounces),  .and  two  issues  (8  ounces)  of 
corned  beef.  These  were  all  mixed  together  and  made  me  a  good  stew,  and,  with  the  chocolate,  a  good 
meal.  I  ate  part  at  the  time  and  i)art  at  about  noon.  We  had  a  good  stew  for  supper  of  about  two-thirds 
seal  meat.  The  doctor  has  forbidden  my  smoking  any  more  for  the  present.  I  got  from  him  two  ounces  01 
rum,  though  he  would  not  give  me  any  rum  to  day,  the  regular  issuing  day.  I  got  some  yesterday,  however, 
feeling  very  cold  and  badly.  One  oak  barrel  cooks,  at  the  average,  thirty-nine  pots.  This  will  give  us  at 
the  rate  of  one  barrel  every  three  days.     We  have  a  slight  margin  over  the  first  of  March. 

yanuary  14. — Barometer,  29.86  [758.43'""'];  thermometer,  —18  [  —  27.8"  C.j.  I  have  been  in  the 
sleeping-bag  all  day ;  am  quite  weak.  Could  hardly  stand  yesterday.  I  have  been  in  with  Lieutenant 
Greely  and  Israel  since  yesterday,  exchanging  with  Jewell.  The  doctor  has  shut  down  on  my  smoking 
for  the  present.  I  find  it  a  great  deprivation.  Trouble  again  with  the  water-hole ;  it  threatens  to  freeze 
up  entirely.     It  is  wonderful  that  we  have  been  able  to  get  water  so  long. 

Memorandum:   Eels  {Matelote  d' Angiiille),  French,  well  recommended  by  the  doctor. 

We  now  have  bacon  every  Monday,  besides  we  are  to  have  it  Thursdays.  It  is  very  filling.  Some, 
indeed  most  of  us,  cut  it  up  and  eat  it  with  the  tea.  The  tobacco  of  most  of  the  men  is  now  gone.  Tea 
leaves  and  birch  bark  have  been  discontinued,  the  doctor  recommending  their  disuse;  they  seem  to  have 
a  bad  effect.  Breakfast  this  morning  consisted  simply  of  coffee,  bread,  and  butter.  The  bread  after  to-ilay 
is  increased  half  ounce.  When  we  have  stew  or  soup  the  following  morning  the  cook  retains  part  of  this 
to  mix  with  it,  and  there  are  some  pounds  also  thus  used  which  come  m  the  form  of  toast.  There  seems 
to  be  salt  water  in  the  lake  for  some  unexplainable  reason.  It  is  very  perceptible  in  our  drinks.  We  have 
commenced  melting  ice  over  the  blubber  Lamp,  and  thus  mend  matters  to  a  certain  extent,  though  the 
most  of  the  water  still  comes  from  the  lake.  Day  dull  and  :'ilm.  With  the  diarrhea,  widi  which  I  have 
been  suffering,  I  had  some  affection  of  the  eyes.  My  bow,,  s  seem,  in  part,  to  be  recovering,  and  I  am 
getting  my  strength  again.  Frederick  has  been  lying  in  his  bag  for  many  days,  and  to-day  was  forced 
to  get  up  and  sit  in  his  bag  for  some  time.  He  also  sawed  some  wood.  Whisler  has  been  doing  this 
last  for  some  time.  We  are  now  burning  old  leather  boot-soles.  Last  night  Long  told  us  some  western 
experience.    To-day  Nebraska  was  talked  about.     I  had  something  to  say  for  Nebraska. 

yanuary  15. — Barometer,  30.02  [762.49'"'"];  thermometer,  —27.5  [—33-1°  C.].  I  am  still  quite 
weak.  I  find  it  difficult  to  move  in  the  bag  from  a  lying  to  a  sitting  position.  The  doctor  has  stopped 
my  smoking  or  [and]  chewing,  which  is  quite  a  serious  deprivation.  The  water  in  the  lake  gave  out  to-day. 
Another  hole,  the  other  which  has  been  under  way  for  some  time,  was  then  finishetl,  but  gave  no  water. 
We  are  to  try  ancther  hole  to-morrow,  to  make  sure,  but  there  is  little  hope  of  water.  We  had  one  pot  of 
tea  to-night,  which  gave  half  cups  to  each  man.  The  seal  stew  was  made  up  altogether  of  salt  water. 
Breakfast  this  morning  consisted  of  corn  and  extract  of  meat.  It  had  a  delicious  flavor.  We  are  to  have 
American  bread  hereafter  on  Wednesdays,  instead  of  English,  .and  bacon  on  Mond.ay  and  Thursd.ay 
evenings.  This  bacon  is  raw.  The  English  bacon  comes  cooked  in  the  cans  which  preserve  it.  Indian 
Territory  was  dwelt  upon  this  morning.  The  spirits  of  the  party  are  good,  though  a  trifle  below  what 
they  have  been,  perhaps. 

yanuary  i6. — Barometer,  29.72  [754.87'""'];  thermometer,  —21.3  [  —  29.6°  C.|.  Breakfast  consi.sted 
of  seal-skin  stew,  very  good  indeed,  and  half  cup  of  chocolate.  The  lake  has  given  out,  and  now  we  are 
reduced  to  half  a  cup,  thougli  the  cooks  think  that  when  we  have  no  other  hot  foods  they  will  be  al)le  to 
have  something  over  just  half  a  cup.    We  came  to  the  conclusion  to-day  that  there  was  no  more  water  in  the 


416 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I   4 


.1    1 


lake,  thougli  to-morrow  another  hole  is  to  be  started  as  a  last  trial.  The  American  bread  to-night  very 
good,  and  much  i)referred  by  us  all.  I  ate  all  mine,  and  also  two  pieces  of  English  bread  I  had  saved  over 
from  last  night.  English  meat  to-night.  Found  myself  so  weak  last  night,  on  getting  up,  that  I  could 
scarcely  stand,  and  came  near  falling  down.  The  bread  ration  was  increased  from  to-day  a  half  ource.  This 
is  due  to  overestimates,  and  probably  also  to  much  of  the  bread  being  damp  and  wet.  Foxes  seem  to  have 
left — none  heard  of  for  some  time.  I  have  spent  the  day  in  sleeping-bag.  Something  has  been  the  matter 
wi>'i  my  eyes,  but  the  doctor  seems  to  think  they  arc  getting  all  right.  I  take  a  smoke  of  tobacco  to-night. 
The  doctor  has  at  length  restored  this  priceless  boon.  Spirits  of  the  party  have  seemed  a  litUe  down  for  a 
few  days,  but  are  now  better.  We  count  the  days  forward  and  back.  Rice  made  some  jjreparations  towards 
getting  his  sleei)ing-bag  ready  to-day.  \Vill  have  increased  rations  for  a  week  before  starting.  Cloudberries 
to-day.     Lime-juice  yesterday.     Storm  this  evening. 

yamitiry  17. — Barometer,  29.56  [750.81"""];  thermometer,  —36  [—37.8°  C.J.  The  two  messes  now 
have  two  pots  of  tea,  one  melting  the  ice  over  the  blubber  lamp  during  the  day.  This  gives  a  half  cupful 
to  each  man.  This  is  founil  quite  satisfactory.  We  have  no  salt  in  our  drink,  which  is  a  decided  improve- 
ment. The  party  has  been  rather  dejjressed  for  some  ilays,  owing  to  exactly  what  I  do  not  know.  To-night 
we  are  in  better  spirits,  but  still  not  in  as  good  sjjirits  as  two  weeks  ago.  Some  singing  to-night,  the  first  for 
some  time.  The  talk  during  the  day  has  been  less  than  usual.  I  can  hardly  rise  from  a  lying  to  a  sitting 
j)osture,  or  from  a  sitting  posture  to  a  rising  posture.  Considerably  more  light  is  now  apparent.  We  now 
chop  ice  from  the  lake.  Four  and  a  half  days  on  one  barrel,  which  is  very  good.  I  have  not  written  the 
letter  to  the  dear  ones  at  home,  and  circumstances  may  prevent  altogether.  Our  uncomfortable  circum- 
stances must  be  my  excuse,  if  circumstances  should  be  such  as  to  prevent  me.  Clod  only  knows  I  think 
enough  of  those  at  home.  Dakota  was  i  ut  up  [talked  of  |  to-day.  We  all  suffer  a  good  deal  from  cold  feet 
and  hands.  I  find  it  extremely  tlilficult  to  keep  warm.  We  count  the  days  from  one  "  son-of-a-gun  "  to  another. 
This  double  sight  still  troubles  me,  though  it  is  not  so  bad.  I  am  very  nervous.  The  doctor  has  stopped  my 
tobacco  since  I  have  been  taken  thus,  but  yesterday  and  to-tlay  has  allowed  me  one  smoke  each  day.  Cross 
has  been  lying  very  close  in  his  bag,  and  is  a  good  deal  demoralized  and  very  weak.  To-day  he  was  put  in 
the  single  bag,  next  to  Hiederbick,  to  be  watched.  He  is  made  to  get  up  every  day  and  saw  a  little  wood. 
Jewell  is  still  in  my  bag,  but  has  moved  by  Lieutenant  Clrecly's  orders  next  to  the  bag  occupied  by  Schneider. 
Henry  now  occupies  part  of  this  bag.  We  are  talking  a  good  deal  of  food  this  evening.  The  doctor 
promises  this  evening  some  description  of  a  Spanish  bull-fight. 

Memoranilum :  Tomato  i)ie,  made  of  green  tomatoes.  ■ 

Most  of  the  party  are  comparatively  well  still.  Elison  does  not  know  of  the  loss  of  his  feet  yet.  He 
is  in  Bood  spirits.  Breakfast  this  morning — ox-tail  souj),  tea,  and  bread.  Dinner — American  bacon  and 
bread.  The  issue  of  butter  for  to-morrow  morning  and  next  Monday  was  made  for  our  mess  this  evening. 
Many  eat  a  little  butter,  however,  at  each  meal.  "American  Shipping"  was  finished  yesterday.  Ljeutenant 
Greely  also  read  "Regulations"  in  the  morning;  also  this  morning.  American  bread  issued  last  night. 
To-night  we  have  English  bread. 

ydniujiy  18. — Barometer,  29.52  [749.79"""];  thermometer,  —40  [ — 40.0*^  C.J.  Cross  died  to-day 
about  1.30  p.  m.,  of  dropsical  ctTusion  of  the  heart.  My  attention  was  first  called  to  him  last  night,  Jewell, 
who  sleeps  ne;'r  him,  giving  the  alarm.  He  was  found  insensible  by  the  doctor,  but  this  morning  rallied  a 
little,  though  he  did  not  regain  consciousness.  He  was  given  brandy  and  soup  to-day,  but  it  was  with 
tlifficully,  I  believe,  they  were  gotten  down.  He  has  been  moaning  all  day  up  to  the  time  of  his  death.  It 
seems  that  the  doctor  told  Lieutenant  Creely  some  time  ago  of  this  effusion  of  the  heart  that  Cross  had; 
that  his  constitution  was  broken  down,  &:c.  His  long  course  of  intemperance,  both  at  Fort  Conger  and 
before  he  came  up  to  this  region,  is  the  cause  of  his  constitution  showing  so  little  reactionary  power.  His 
foot  that  was  frozen  still  remains  [remained  |  unhealed.  Yesterday  he  was  up  for  a  short  time  sawing  wood, 
in  order  to  give  him  exercise.  He  will  be  buried  to-morrow  on  die  little  neck  of  land  between  here  and  the 
jilace  where  we  first  landed — that  is,  at  tiie  other  end  of  the  lake.  Lieutenant  Greely  made  .a  few  remarks 
after  his  death  as  to  the  cause  of  it,  and  said  that  the  rest  of  us  should  have  no  occasion  for  ilepression,  nor 
allow  his  death  to  depress  us.  Day  very  fine,  clear,  and  bright.  We  had  a  very  fine  seal  stew  for  supper. 
Henry  has  taken  Cross's  place  in  the  other  mess,  for  the  present  at  least.  Cross's  body  will  be  sewed  up  in 
coffee  sacks  and  canv.is.  Cross  has  l)cen  a  little  out  of  his  mind  for  some  time.  More  talk  about  food 
to-day,  and  dishes  have  been  discussed. 

Memorandum:  Sconi  [Scotch  scones]  Bannock  cake.     Pudding  of  green  com. 


THK  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXI'KDITIOX. 


417 


Owe  Cross's  heirs  for  twenty  pieces  of  clothing  washed  hy  Cross.  'I'he  ]>arty  arc  in  very  good  spirits, 
everything  considered.  I  am  now  taking  medicine  prescribed  by  the  doctor.  I  find  myself  still  very  weak. 
I  am  a  little  better,  however,  within  the  past  few  days.  Smoked  only  once  to-day,  by  the  tloctors  orders. 
Cold  feet  to-day.  We  had  a  full  cup  of  cliocolate  for  breakfast  this  morning,  with  bread  and  butter. 
Thermometer  inside  to-day,  about  ii  a.  m.,  +30  [  —  1.1°  C.j.  Yesterday  I  noticed  it  at  +23  |— s.o°C.], 
inside,  the  lowest  I  have  seen  it.  How  often,  in  these  dreary  days,  I  think  of  those  at  home.  How  I  should 
like  to  write  out  a  family  letter,  as  a  safeguard  against  what  may  yet  hnp[)en.  Will  the  dear  ones  appreciate 
my  reason.s,  should  anything  prevent  me  from  returning  to  my  native  land? 

yaiitttvy  19  (Saturday) — Rarometer,  29.69  [754.11"""];  thennonictcr,  —40  [—40.0"  C],  below  .scale. 
Breakfast — peas  and  rice  and  a  good  cup  of  chocolate.  Cross  was  buried  today  at  the  otlier  end  of  the 
lake.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  Hrainard,  Rice,  Israel,  Whisler,  and  Salor  attended  the  body  to  the  grave, 
which  was  dug  about  a  foot  [.3"']  deep,  and  sand  and  gravel  and  a  few  rocks  hea|)ed  on  top.  After  awhile 
more  rocks  will  be  added,  and  also  a  head-board.  The  body  wa<i  sewed  ui)  in  canvas  antl  buried  in  the 
American  flag.  Several  of  us  did  not  go  out  on  account  of  frost  bites,  and  the  others  on  account  of  the  lack 
of  foot  gear,  the  number  of  Arctic  overshoes  being  very  limited.  Cross  was  forty  years  old  to-day.  This  is 
also  Gardiner's  birthday;  he  is  twenty  seven.  lie  had  a  drink  of  rum  and  our  good  wishes.  Those  of 
Cross's  clothes  worth  anything,  have  been,  or  are  to  be,  divided  uj)  among  the  party.  A  few  trinkets  were 
found  in  his  pockets,  &c.  The  daily  ration  of  bread  was  increased  from  to-day  half  ounce,  which  makes 
the  total  daily  allowance  7.8  ounces,  inclu<iing  tlie  dog-bread.  Rice  is  to  have  one  ])ound  meat  and  12 
ounces  bread  in  crossing  the  straits.  The  thermometer  is  below  scale,  which  only  registers  down  to  —40 
[—40.0°  C.J.  It  is  clear  and  calm  out  of  doors  and  there  is  indication  of  the  straits  being  all  right.  The 
burial  service  was  read  here  in  the  hut  over  the  remains  of  Cross  before  they  were  taken  out.  I  made  a 
few  remarks  on  Cross,  all  that  were  made.  I  could  say  little  in  his  favor.  Of  course  I  said  nothing  in 
detraction. 

Memorandum:  Lemon  butter. 

We  are  all  in  pretty  good  spirits,  and  look  forward  pretty  sanguinely  to  pulling  through.  It  is  thought 
that  the  wood  will  last  until  the  first  of  March.  We  have  five  days  of  stearine  after  this,  besides  alcohol. 
Rice  is  to  start  on  the  2d  February.  Our  usual  routine  l-.as  been  interrupted  pur|)osely  as  little  as  [)ossible  by 
Cross's  death.     To  indulge  in  sadness,  &:c.,  would  have  a  very  bad  etilect  upon  the  living. 

yaiiiKvy  20. — Harometer,  29.71  [754.62"""];  thermometer  below  scale.  Day  calm  and  clear,  but 
very  cold  out  of  doors.     Unfortunately  the  low-reading  thermonKter  is  lost,  and  the  one  left  only  registers 

42  [—41.1°  C.].     Fine  "  son-of-a-gun  "  this  morning,  which  had  the  usual  effect  of  putting  many  to  sleep. 

Piece  of  lemon  and  a  half  gill  of  rum  shortly  after  noon,  and  a  fine  seal  .stew  diis  evening.  Jewell  was 
transferred  to  the  other  me.ss  this  morning,  though  he  takes  still  two  or  th.jc  meals  with  our  mess,  to  equalize 
rations.  I  came  ba(-k  to  my  old  place  to-day,  and  Jewell  resumes  his  place  in  the  bag  with  Lieutenant 
Greely  and  Israel.  Hoth  of  these  moves  aie  much  to  his  disgust.  I  did  not  find  it  comfortable  in  that 
bag,  rendered  more  so  by  my  extreme  weakness,  which  still  continues.  I  seem  to  mentl  very  slowly  indeed; 
I  do  not  understand  it.  I  can  hardly  unilerstand  it  and  can  hardly  stand  up.  Very  cold  feet  ever  since 
last  night.  Our  good  meals  to-day  seem  to  have  a  good  effect.  What  is  to  be  the  end  of  this  remains  to 
be  seen.  I  hope  to  pull  through  all  right.  If  I  do  not  I  hope  the  dear  ones  at  home  will  ai)preciate  the 
circumstances.  Oh!  for  the  conveniences  to  write  a  good  letter  to  them.  How  often  my  thoughts  |)icture 
up  the  family  scenes  at  home.  Every  moment  I  use  the  e.xtra  l)lul)i)er  lamp  to  write  these  lines,  with  colil 
fingers,  is  so  much  off  our  supply  of  light  as  well  as  rations,  for  blubber  is  rations.  To-night  the  Escpiimaux 
sang  some  songs,  as  well  as  the  others.  Henry  is  now  next  to  the  south  of  me.  Some  squabbles  to-day. 
Tried  to  introduce  sound  to-night,  but  only  got  it  half  way  in.  Tiiis  is  the  first  time  I  have  made  the 
attempt  since  leaving"  Fort  Conger.     I  find  I  have  a  contraction  of  the and  think  it  is  due  to  this. 

yanuary  21. — Barometer, ;  thermometer,  —34  [  —  36.7°  C.j. 

Memorandum:   Lemon  butter. 

Calm  and  clear.  Last  evening  passed  very  pleasantly,  antl  conversation  was  kept  up  until  9  p.  ni.  I 
sat  up  in  the  darkness  till  midnight  trying  to  get  my  feet  warm,  and,  by  rubbing  them,  partially  succeeded. 
To-day  my  feet  have  been  warm  and  comfortable  all  day.  I  still  find  myself  very  weak;  was  unable  to  lift 
myself  U|)  to  a  sitting  posture  this  morning  until  I  got  hold  of  a  stra|)  overhead.  I  do  not  imderstand  this 
weakness.  In  view  of  my  fiiilure  last  night,  however,  conclude  it  might  be  due  to  a  closing  up  of  the  urethra. 
I  went  to  Lieutenant  Greely  this  afternoon  and  told  him  I  had  been  growing  weak  for  several  weeks  pre- 
H.  Mis.  393 27 


418 


TDK  liADY  FIJANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


vious  and  am  breaking  down,  but  had  kept  silence  about  it  on  account  of  the  effect  it  might  have  on  the 
party.  I  urged  that,  if  I  find  myself  in  this  condition  when  the  time  comes  to  leave  here,  I  be  left  behind 
with  my  share  of  the  rations,  anil  be  sent  back  for  on  the  i)arty  reaching  Littleton  Island.  He  said  that  it 
was  something  he  would  never  think  of  for  a  moment,  the  idea  of  leaving  any  one  behind.  I  gave  him  and 
the  i)arty  generally  a  better  idea  of  my  condition  and  my  extreme  weakness.  Saw  the  doctor,  and  he  stoijped 
my  tobacco  altogether,  and  has  told  me  to  stop  using  the  sound.  Hrainard  took  an  inventory  to-day  and 
found  12  cans  of  milk  stolen.  This  is  quite  a  serious  loss,  and  the  thief  gets  not  a  few  imprecations.  Some 
of  the  party  seem  to  have  suspected  Cross.  Cross  was  found,  on  examining  his  bag,  to  have  brought  along 
a  number  of  articles,  among  others  Lieutenant  Greely's  epaulets,  &c.  Some  slight  additions  are  to  be  made 
in  the  rations  notwithstanding.  The  blubber  is  increased  to  1 1  ounces  per  week  jier  man,  hard  bread  to  57 
ounces.  The  extra  seal  meat  we  have  been  getting  on  Suntlays  is  to  be  carried  to  the  end  of  February,  so 
as  to  make  an  extra  stew.  The  party  in  very  good  spirits  this  afternoon  and  evening.  It  is  now  much 
lighter  in  the  day ;  the  light  is  increasing  i)erceptibly.  Breakfast  this  morning — bread,  butter,  and  chocolate; 
this  afternoon — .\merican  bacon  (raw),  hard  bread,  and  tea.  I  have  not  yet  found  out  the  best  way  of  eating 
my  bacon.  Some  of  us  i)ut  it  in  our  tea,  and  thus  get  it  a  little  more  tender.  I  try  all  sorts  of  ways  of 
making  my  meals  feel  more  satisfactory. 

'yitiiiiiiiy  22. — Barometer,  30.00;  thermometer, —^7  [— 32.8°C.].  I  got  very  little  sleep  last  night; 
my  feet  felt  as  if  packed  in  ice,  so  cold  were  they.  I  took  a  short  nap  this  forenoon,  something  very 
unusual.  Lieutenant  Greely  spoke  on  California.  Breakfast  this  morning  consisted  of  soup  of  peas  and 
carrots.  We  had  a  fine  seal-meat  stew  for  supi)er.  The  doctor  is  giving  me  iron  every  day  since  yesterday 
or  day  before ;  also  quinine,  though  I  do  not  know  how  long  it  is  to  be  continued.  The  invalids  are  now 
Elison,  Gardiner,  Henry  (frost-bitten  toe),  and  myself.  I  feel  stronger  to-day,  and  so  I  hope  we  may  all  be 
considered  as  on  the  convalescent  list.  I  find  total  deprivation  from  tobacco  a  great  hardship  and  very 
hard  to  bear.     Fox  tracks  seen  near  by  to-day.     1  now  have  a  mattress  under  nie. 

y^iinuary  23. — Barometer,  ;  thermometer,  —21  [  —  29.4°  C.J.     Waked  up  this  morning  at  3 

a,  m.  with  cold  feet ;  have  been  miserable  ever  since  with  feet  icy  cold,  so  much  so  that  I  am  not  quite  sure 
they  are  not  frost-bitten.  Total  deprivation  of  tobacco  to-day  has  gone  a  great  ways  towards  making  me 
feel  more  miserable.  I  got  up  this  afternoon  and  stayed  a  little  too  long.  It  made  me  so  weak  that  I  could 
not  get  back  to  the  sleeping-bag  without  the  assistance  of  Frederik,  Eskimo,  who  helped  me.  Breakfast — seal 
soup  and  chocolate;  and  dinner — English  meat  and  tea.  I  have  cup  of  drink  in  each  case.  Had  American 
bread  for  supper,  and  are  to  have  it  three  times  a  week  hereafter.  There  is  to  be  a  reduction  in  English 
meat,  but  we  are  to  have  bacon,  &c.,  instead.  This  is  a  very  great  change,  as  English  meat  seems  to  go  a 
very  short  ways.  Strong  west  wind  all  day.  Discussion  to-night  as  to  how  many  barrels  we  have  burned. 
It  is  not  settled  whether  we  are  running  ahead  or  behind  on  the  wood  question.  This  is  very  important. 
I  am  very  weak,  though  a  litde  stronger  than  of  late.  Lieutenant  Greely  spoke  of  San  Francisco  this 
morning.  He  also  read  some  from  a  book  on  agriculture  and  commercial  statistics.  Increased  rations 
for  Rice  and  Jans  [JensJ  will  begin  on  Sunday  next.  One  pound  of  bread  and  meat  for  each  until  they 
leave,  and  three-quarter  pound  of  bread  and  one  pound  of  meat  while  crossing.  Rice  is  to  take  six  days' 
rations.  Reading  every  evening,  and  conversation  generally  on  food,  &c.,  keeps  the  blubber  lamp  burning 
until  8.30  or  9.30,  or  thereabouts.  After  that  go  to  sleep.  After  midnight  until  six  a.  m.  there  are  constant 
questions  as  to  the  time.  I  gave  Frederik,  Eskimo,  to-night  a  memorandum  for  $25,  which  I  promised 
him  on  the  spring  trip  of  1882. 

January  24. — Barometer,  30.00  [761.99"""];  thermometer,  — 20  [-28.9"  C]  Breakfast — ox-tail 
soup,  bread,  and  tea  (half  cup  as  usual).  Supper — American  bacon,  9^  ounces  to-night,  and  in  the  morning 
American  bread  and  half  cup  of  tea.  This  additional  bread  has  been  saved  by  the  cooks.  American 
bread  is  to  be  issued  hereafter  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Thursdays,  and  dog-biscuit  on  Saturdays.  On 
the  mornings  when  we  have  nothing  but  bread,  butter,  and  drink,  we  are  to  have  a  full  cup  of  drink.  The 
bread  loomed  up  in  the  plate  to-night  in  a  most  comfortable  appearance.  Slept  well  last  night,  having 
revived  the  circulation  of  my  feet  on  the  stove  stone,  and  afterwards  got  Frederik  [Christiansen]  to  rub 
them.  Frederik  [Christiansen]  also  loaned  me  a  pair  of  socks,  so  that  I  had  on  under  my  sleeping  boots 
four  pairs  of  socks.  These  socks  only  go  to  the  ankle.  Felt  well  to-day;  much  better  than  yesterday.  The 
spirits  of  the  party  have  been  higher  to-day,  and  the  talk  a  good  deal  on  Rice's  departure  and  hopes  of 
soon  having  news  of  assistance  from  the  other  side.  Good  deal  of  conversation  in  the  afternoon  on  history; 
chronology  table  suggested  by  several  important  historical  dates.     Dr,  Pavy  gave  personal  reminiscences 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  HXPKUITION. 


419 


on  a  pedestrian  tour  in  Switzerland.  I  too  made  a  few  remarks  on  common  mistakes  in  F-nglish  t;rannnar. 
Kane's  book  was  commenced  last  night.  To-day  generally  calm  and  pretty  clear.  We  all  suffer  a  great 
deal  from  cold  hands  and  feet.  +14  [ — 10.0°  C.J  is  the  lowest  temperature  observed  in  the  Iwnse  u,)  to 
date.  Since  the  banking  and  the  tunnel,  the  lowest  has  been  -\-ig  [  —  7.2°  C.].  All  of  us  are  on  the 
convalescent  list  at  present,  though  recovery  from  frost-bites,  Ike,  is  very  slow.  It  is  a  great  elTort  for  me  to 
expose  my  hands  long  enough  to  write  this  journal.  They  soon  get  cold  and  numb.  Anything  like  sewing 
re(iuires  a  great  effort.  Lieutenant  Greely  urges  at  least  a  little  exercise  every  day — sufficient  at  least  to 
get  the  party  out  of  their  bags  to  take  a  few  steps  in  the  aisle. 

yamiary  25. — Barometer,  29.85  [758.18"""];  thermometer,  —32  [—35.6°  C.|.  lireaKfast — coffee, 
butter,  and  bread.  Supper — fine  seal  soup  with  some  American  bread  jiarticularly  cris|)  and  palatable.  It 
was  quite  demoralizing  to  know  how  to  manage  our  sup[)er.  Whether  to  make  paji  out  of  all  or  part  of 
the  bread,  or  put  all  the  bread  in  the  soup  (or  stew  as  we  call  it),  or  whether  to  eat  tlie  bread  ilry.  Or,  if 
we  have  any  butter  left,  to  eat  some  butter,  or  all,  or  none,  is  very  harassing.  The  butter  is  shareil  for 
Monday  and  Friday  mornings,  when  we  have  nothing  else  but  bread  and  drink,  but  some  save  little  or  nothing 
for  these  mornings,  finding  it  impossible  to  overcome  the  tem|)lation  in  the  meantime.  Hiederbick's  birth- 
day to-day — 25  years  old.  He  got  a  drink  of  rum.  Lieutenant  Greely  read  more  or  less  out  of  a  statis- 
tical book,  and  we  went  over  all  the  chronology  dates  that  could  be  thought  of  Kane,  &c.,  was  read  last 
night.  Conversation  to-day  also  more  or  less  on  food.  Rice  commences  his  increased  rations  to-morrow 
morning. 

Memorandum :  Bread  with  intermixed  dried  fruit. 

I  have  had  icy  cold  feet  all  day,  which  have  made  me  miserable.  They  commenced  to  get  cold  last 
night,  though  I  was  not  wakened  by  them  until  just  before  breakfast.  We  discussed  now  a  good  deal  our 
hopes  concerning  Rice.  May  he  get  over  safely  and  find  and  bring  relief,  is  my  prayer.  Life  of  St,  Patrick 
read  a  little  last  night.  Windy  this  evening ;  everything  pretty  much  same  as  yesterday.  Bender  made 
some  molds  to  mold  the  few  pounds  of  stearine  remaining  into  candles.  In  this  way  it  is  proposed  to  be 
able  to  use  the  blubber,  or  most  of  it,  for  food. 

yii/iitaty  26. — Barometer,  29.92  [759.95"""];  thermometer,  —26  [  —  32.2°  C.].  Breakfast — fine  flavored 
soup  of  rice  and  tomatoes,  and  tea.  Supper — English  meat  and  dog-biscuit,  with  tea.  Day  passed  very 
much  as  usual.  My  feet  have  been  warm  to-day,  and  I  have  felt  (piite  comfortable.  The  spirits  of  the 
party  seem  much  higher.  I  am  getting  strong,  I  am  glad  to  say.  I  am  taking  iron  now  every  day.  1  was 
able  to  save  half  of  the  bread  of  last  night  until  to-night.  Extra  rations  issued  to  Rice  and  Jans  [Jens|  for 
to-night  and  the  morning.  They  will  leave  February  2d.  Statistical  book  read  from  to-day  by  Lieutenant 
Greely,  and  chronology  table.  Kane  read  every  day  now.  Koningsbee  [Coningsby]  will  be  finishetl  this 
evening.  We  shall  have  no  milk  in  to-morrow's  "son-of-a-gun,"  but  a  little  more  blubber  than  usual.  Our 
conversation  often  turns  on  Fort  Conger  and  the  cooking  there — as  to  which  of  the  cooks  did  best,  iVc. 
Many  think  that  Long's  bread  was  the  best  they  ever  ate.  One  curious  phase  of  these  days  of  fasting  is 
that  the  mind  can  hardly  recall  any  di.sh  of  food  ever  tasted  with  an  actual  sense  of  having  disliked  it.  We 
have  a  full  cup  of  drink  now,  when  we  have  only  drink,  bread,  and  butter.  I  gave  Jans  [Jens]  written 
memorandum  of  indebtedness  to  him  for  $4,  which  he  says  is  the  amount  of  my  bill  for  washing.  Frederik 
[Christiansen I  helps  me  in  getting  in  and  out  my  sleeping-bag,  &c.  I  give  him  a  little  tobacco  each  day, 
and  have  also  promised  him  some  turkey  or  bird  [pork  or  bread]  when  we  reach  B  [Proven],  provided  I  can 
get  the  article.  Increasing  daylight  is  often  remarked.  Kane's  sufferings,  starvation,  &c.,  are  often  con- 
trasted with  our  own. 

Memorandum :  Macaroni  pudding. 

yanuary  27. — Barometer, ;  thermometer,  —28  [  —  33.3]. 

Memorandum:  Instead  of  cream  and  sugar  for  fresh  fruit,  try  cream,  sugar,  and  white  of  eggs,  beaten 
to  a  froth. 

Another  Sunday  gone,  Rice's  last,  and  but  two  more  for  the  party  before  the  sun  reappears.  Break- 
fast— "  son-of-a-gun."  We  miss  the  milk  which  gives  the  "  son-of-a-gun  "  sweetness,  but  had  a  little  more 
blubber,  which  made  it  more  filling.  Supper  to-night,  a  very  fine  seal  stew,  made  thick  with  bread  dust — 
almost  thick  enough  for  the  spoon  to  stand  upright.  Rum  and  a  fourth  of  a  lemon  shared  this  evening.  I 
managed  to  save  over  my  three  dog-biscuit  from  last  night,  and  so,  with  my  bread,  this  evening  fare  very 
well.  Conversation  to-day  on  many  subjects.  Dr.  Pavy  and  Lieutenant  Greely  said  something  about 
traveling  in  Switzerland  and  France.     We  all  show  a  decided  disinclination  to  going  out  of  doors.     Got  up 


420 


TUE  LADY  FJtANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


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about  noon,  but,  strange  to  say,  found  myself  very  weak — more  so  than  usual — and  so  got  back  again  into 
my  bag,  after  bciiij;  uj)  a  few  minutes.  Frederik,  Kskinio,  helps  me  in  these  operations.  I  told  him  to- 
night I  would  give  hiui  some  tobacc^o  on  reaching  U  \  Proven].  I  would  rather  be  seriously  ill  and  sick  in  a 
land  of  civilization  than  thus  indisjjosed  in  this  place.  How  heartily  I  should  be  thankful  when  I  get  out 
of  this,  as  I  hope  to.  Lieutenant  Greely  ordered  tea  grounds  to  be  thrown  away  after  this,  several  of  the 
men  showing  great  reluctance  to  giving  up  their  use,  though  recommended  by  the  doctor  to  do  so.  We 
are  all  in  good  spirits,  and  feel  (|uitc  sanguine  of  finding  substantial  assistance  at  Littleton  Island.  Calm 
today,  and  those  out  noticed  much  increased  daylight.  Our  ice  is  now  cut  very  fine,  so  it  is  much  more 
quickly  melted.  It  is  partially  melted  over  the  blubber  lamp.  Chocolate  for  breakfast  this  morning, 
and  tea  to-night  at  supper.  I  still  have  most  of  my  rum,  which  I  will  drink  later.  Also  about  half  my 
night's  issue  of  bread.  Farming  seems  to  have  dropjjed  off  into  the  shade.  Long  seems  to  be  the  cnly  one 
man  who  still  .sticks  to  his  original  plan,  that  of  opening  a  restaurant,  ''wo  fo.xes  seen  to-day ;  it  shows  they 
have  not  altogether  deserted  the  country,  as  feared.  Much  discussion  is  devoted  as  to  the  best  way  of 
eating  our  meals,  rum,&c.  Bache  Island  and  the  country  to  the  north  was  reported  quite  distmct  today  at 
noon.  Old  leather  boots  have  been  cut  up;  with  the  rojjc  they  add  considerably  to  our  fuel.  'I'here  is 
great  difference  in  the  burning  of  the  stove,  as  there  is  little  or  no  wind. 

yanitary  28. — Barometer,  29.92  [759.95"""];  thermometer,  —:s^]i  1—38.9°  C.J.  Breakfa.st — tea, 
bread,  and  chocolate.  Su[)per — bacon,  tea,  and  American  bread.  Hereafter  we  are  to  have  7  ounces  of 
bread  on  Mondays,  Tuesdays,  Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays,  9  on  Fridays,  and  8  on  .he  other  two  days  remain- 
ing— jy  ounces  in  all.  Rice  gets  4  ounces  of  blubber  per  day  up  to  the  time  m'  his  leaving.  Conversation 
ushered  in  this  morning  by  many  remarks  regarding  Cross,  showing  very  bad  habits,  and  a  lack  of  principle 
on  his  part.  It  seems  to  have  been  Cross  who  took  the  milk.  The  day  has  passed  very  quickly.  Chrono- 
logical table  this  evening.  During  the  evening  Brainard  gave  the  particulars  of  his  Indian  fight.  Good  deal 
of  conversation  to-day  on  the  subject  of  Rice's  ileparture,  and  what  we  may  e.xpect,  &c.  We  all  feel  quite 
sanguine.  I  felt  quite  strong  this  morning  on  getting  up,  though  1  hail  little  appetite  for  my  bread.  On 
s|)eaking  of  this,  I  was  directed  to  eat  it  at  once.  It  is  quite  astonishing  not  to  have  a  voracious  appetite  at 
all  times.  I  did  not  lose  mine  by  any  means,  but  simply  lost  some  of  it  this  morning,  I  have  felt  in  good 
spirits  all  day,  however;  slept  well  last  night  until  2  o'clock  this  a.  m.  Every  day  we  count  the  days  for- 
ward to  different  days  ahead.  I  suppose  the  subject  of  food  and  dishes  will  never  die  out  until  we  have  all 
we  can  eat.  It  is  the  subject  to  which  we  all  recur  with  most  interest.  We  blow  out  blubber  lamp  every 
night  at  about  8^  to  9^4,  or  thereabouts.  Koningsbee  [Coningsby]  was  finished  last  night.  We  find  Kane 
possesses  a  new  interest  in  the  light  of  our  ])resent  experience.  A  number  of  stearine  candles  have  been 
made.     Fox  seen  to-day,  but  Brainard's  gun  would  not  go  off — it  is  the  shot-gun. 

yanitary  2C), — Barometer,  29.88  [758.94"""];  thermometer,  —32  [— 3S.6°C.]. 

Memorandum:  Try  wine  with  sauce  for  fruit  mentioned  on  the  27th  inst.  Try  coon,  porcupine, 
opossum,  &c. 

Breakfast — soup  of  corn,  extract  meat,  potatoes,  tea,  and  bread.  Supper — fine  seal  stew  with  a  good 
deal  of  bread  in  it,  FJiglish  bread,  and  tea.  Chronology  table  to-day;  also  remarks  by  doctor  on  the 
stomach,  &c.  Several  wordy  disputes  during  the  day;  among  others  one  on  the  difference  between  coon, 
'possums,  hedgehogs,  &c.,  this  afternoon.  We  ha\  e  a  good  many  of  these  wordy  disputes,  which  often  start 
off  without  any  one  fully  understanding  what  any  one  else  means.  One  this  afternoon  consisted  of  whether 
rock  candy  ever  came  in  sticks  or  not.  Rice  commenced  his  operations  for  departure  yesterday  on  his 
sleeping-bag.  He  and  Jans  [Jens]  take  a  single  man  bag,  one  found  in  the  wreck.  It  has  been  enlarged 
for  them.  It  was  discovered  to-day  that  the  tobacco  found  in  the  English  cache  was  gone.  Fox  seen  to^ 
day,  but  it  seems  impossible  to  get  at  him.  Slept  very  well  last  night,  and  without  waking  up  until  2  o'clock 
this  morning.  One  of  the  annoyances  of  this  life  is  the  difficulty  we  have  in  trying  to  cheat  the  stomach  and 
make  our  dole  of  food  seem  more  than  it  really  is.  We  have  more  than  a  half-dozen  ways  of  combining 
and  intermixing  our  bread,  meat,  and  tea.  It  is  pitiable  the  value  one  puts  on  a  miserable  little  piece  of 
hard,  coarse,  hard-bread.  Calm  this  morning,  but  blowing  this  evening.  The  wind  makes  the  stove  bum 
quickly  and  without  much  smoke,  however.  The  other  side  of  the  straits — Bache  Island,  &c. — are  now 
plainly  visible.  Rice  is  to  leave  on  the  2d  inst.  Of  course  his  coming  departure  and  what  he  may  find 
are  constant  sources  of  conversation.  I  trust  God  he  may  find  all  that  is  expected,  or  at  least  not  miss 
finding,  at  the  very  least,  the  cache  of  240  rations.  Rice  says  to  look  for  his  return  between  the  14th  and 
15th  inst.     He  will  not  come  back  if  there  is  any  one  there  to  senil.     Lieutenant  Greely  counts  on  nothing 


^Jl 


TIIK  LADY  FUANKMN  HAY  KXPKDITIOS. 


421 


more  llian  the  cache  of  240  rations.  Most  of  us  hope  to  find  Ciarlinnton  over  there.  I  get  tip  for  a  walk  in 
the  aisle  two  or  three  times  every  day.  I  tind  myself  stron^jer,  but  still  very  weak,  and  reijuirinj;  aid  from 
Frederik,  Kskimo,  every  time  I  get  up.  I  take  iron  now  every  day.  We  have  a  very  small  supply.  Ri(  c 
and  Jans  [Jens]  also  take  iron. 

jfiiniiitn'  ^o. —  Harometer,  29.64  [752.84 '|;  thermometer,  —34  [  —  36.7°  C.|,  and   —36  |— 37.8"C.| 

later.  Mreakfast — seal-skin  soup.  Dinner— corned  beef,  and  American  bread,  and  tea.  Day  fine  and 
calm.  I  had  a  fine  sleep  last  night.  Last  night  Dr.  I'avy  made  some  interesting  remarks  on  \'cnice;  after- 
wards Ralston  read  sonie  from  I'ickwic  k.  Klison  is  getting  on  <|uite  well.  Me  will  lose  most  of  his  fingers. 
Cloudberries  today.  1  am  getting  stronger,  but  very  slowly.  Today  I  was  in<lisposed  with  cramps,  and 
I  had  to  get  Whisler  to  help  me  up.  'i'he  doctor  has  forbidden  me  smoking  and  chewing  of  toba<  co  and 
chewing  tea  leaves.  Hiederbick  must  have  rei>orte<l  to  him  that  I  was  (hewing  tobacto,  for  he  accused  me 
of  it  to  day.  I  have  stopped  smoking  and  chewing,  but  may  have  a  little  mite  in  my  mouth.  1  give 
Frederik,  Kskimo,  a  little  tobacco  every  day.  We  are  now  burning  candles  made  of  stearine.  Spirits  of 
the  party  very  good.  Mine  have  been  somewhat  low  for  the  past  two  or  three  days.  The  doctor  made 
')me  remarks  on  the  stomach  this  morning. 

yuniM/y^i. — Barometer,  29.61  [752.08"""];  thermometer,  -6  f— 21.1°  C.|,  [and]  —2  [—18.9°  C]  at  8 
p.  m.  Breakfast — ox-tail  sou])  an<l  chocolate.  Supper — bacon,  American  bread  anil  tea.  The  weather  has 
turned  cloudy,  and  with  a  light  wind  from  the  west.  Dense  smoke  at  supper,  and  the  pots  were  a  long  time 
in  boiling.  Rice  engaged  during  the  day  in  pre|)arations  for  his  dei)arture.  He  takes  a  shee|)-skin  bag  along 
covered  with  the  oil-skin  of  his  old  bag.  Rice  estimates  his  rations,  iVc,  except  the  sleeping-bag,  at  45 
pounds  weight.  The  bag  will  probably  weigh  16  pounds.  He  takes  six  days'  rations  along,  some  little 
niedicine,  alcohol,  small  lamj)  made  to-day  by  Bender,  lime-juice,  rum,  Ike.  I  believe  I  am  getting  stronger 
slowly,  but  very  slowly  indeed.  Frederik,  Kskimo,  heljis  me  u])  two  or  three  times  every  day,  w  lien  I  take  a 
little  promenade  in  the  aisle.  I  have  not  felt  in  very  good  spirits  to  day — rather  down  at  [in|  the  mouth.  I 
can  assign  no  particular  reason.  The  party  are  all  very  anxious  for  the  news  expected  by  reason  of  Rice's 
trip  with  Jans  [Jens].     There  are  saiil  to  be  some  suspicious  looking  clouds  over  the  east. 

Felmiaiy  1  (^Friday). — Barometer,  29.47  [748.52"'"'];  thermometer,  —15.5  [  —  26.4°  C.J.  Breakfast — 
bread,  butter,  and  coffee;  full  cup  of  last.  Supper — fine  stew  of  seal  meat,  3  ounces  per  man,  3).:^  ounces 
brea<l  per  man,  i  ounce  lime  juice  pemmican.  This  is  the  first  time  we  have  had  pemmican.  We  are  '.o 
have  it  hereafter  three  times  a  week — one  stew  of  pemmican  entirely,  and  an  ounce  of  pemmican  in  the 
others.  The  bread  is  to  be  slightly  increased — 64  ounces  per  week  per  man  hereafter,  without  including  the 
dog-biscuit.  With  the  latter  it  will  amount  to  70  ounces.  The  bread  is  issued  differently  for  the  different 
days  of  the  week,  according  to  the  other  food  during  the  day — the  amount  withheld  for  the  stews,  &c.  Rice 
and  Jans  [Jens]  get  off  in  the  morning.  'I'he  cooks  will  be  called  at  5  o'clock  instead  of  the  usual  hour  of  6 
o'clock.  'I'his  is  provided  it  does  not  storm.  I  have  not  been  feeling  well  to-day,  and  was  very  weak  when 
I  got  up  this  afternoo  "?lt  better  this  afternoon,  but  one  foot  very  cold.  A  gn  it  deal  of  attention  paid, 
of  course,  to  Rice's  pn  tions  for  departure.  I  trust  Cod,  Rice  will  find  the  necessary  help  over  on  the 
other  side,  I  do  not  take  it  as  a  matter  of  course  that  the  straits  will  be  found  dosed,  though  as  every  one 
else  seems  to,  I  say  nothing  about  my  fears.  How  often  I  think  of  and  long  for  the  dear  ones  at  home.  I 
trust  Cod  they  are  all  well. 

Fihnuity  2. — Barometer,  29.43  [747.51'""'];  thermometer,  —27.5  [ — 33.1°  <-•■],  and  —19  [  —  28.3°  C] 
in  the  morning.  Kane  and  Hayes  read,  but  I  fell  asleep  anil  missed  them  both.  Many  times  during  the 
early  morning  hours  inquiries  were  made  for  the  time.  The  cooks  were  finally  called  20  minutes  before  5 
o'clock.  Breakfast — soup  of  rice  and  tomatoes — about  the  finest  flavored  soups  we  have — and  chocolate. 
Rice  and  Jans  [Jens]  went  to  work  after  breakfast  to  complete  their  preparations,  and  finally  got  off  at  20 
minutes  before  9  o'clock.  Rice  and  Jans  [Jens]  were  given  a  quarter  pound  a  piece  of  extra  meat  for  the 
morning's  meal,  and  went  oft"  in  fine  spirits,  feeling  very  hopeful.  The  sky  has  been  slightly  overcast  and 
hazy,  and  very  little  or  no  wind  during  the  day.  Brainard  and  Frederik,  Eskimo,  went  along  with  the 
party  half  way  to  the  P  |  Beebe]  cache.  It  is  unnecessary,  of  course,  to  give  the  many  hopes  that  go  with 
them.  Rice  carried  about  38  j)ounds,  and  Jans  [Jens]  about  35.  Their  sleeping-bags  weigh  about  30 
pounds,  and  the  gun — Kislingbury's — about  9  pounds.  I  made  an  attempt  to  go  out  of  doors  to-day,  with 
the  assistance  of  Ralston,  but  only  went  as  far  as  the  alley-way,  feeling  too  weak.  Supper  at  2.30,  the  usual 
hour,  of  English  meat,  dog-biscuit — 3 — and  tea.  I  find  myself  very  weak,  and  getting  stronger  extrenuiy 
slowly.     The  new  moon  made  her  a|)pearance  to  day. 

Memorandum:  Cup  biscuit.     Forms  for  filling  with  preserves,  iS:c. 


h 


1 

i  j 


422 


TIIH  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXTKDITION. 


FibnMry  3. — Haromutcr,  29.47  [748.52"""];  ihonnomctcr,  —19  [  —  28.3°  C.J,  and  —26  [  —  31.2°  C.J 
about  8  J).  111.  The  day  has  been  hazy  and  cahn.  A  fox  was  sliot  early  yesterday  morning ;  one  of  those 
little  blue  and  whiie.  Itrainard  thinks  he  will  weij{h  abou^  three  pounds  dressed.  We  have  had  two  fine 
meals  to-day.  "Son-of-a-gun"  this  morning  was  very  thick  and  satisfactory.  "Son-of-a-gim"  this  morning 
consisted  of  7  ounces  American  bread,  20  ounces  lard,  4  ounces  blubber,  11  ounces  raisins,  and  between  5 
and  6  oun<es  butter.  For  supper  to-night  the  stew  consisted  nf  j  ounces  seal  meat  and  1  pemmi(  an,  3 
ouiK  es  brea,:  per  man,  4  ounces  blubber,  iVc.  It  was  a  very  fine  stew  ;  very  salisfariory.  I  saved  a  milk 
can  of  my  "sonof-a-gun"  this  morning,  and  ate  it  about  10  o'clock.  y\bout  noon  I  went  out  of  doors  for 
the  first  time  since  I  have  been  sick,  with  the  assistance  of  Frederik  | Christiansen].  I  find  a  great  dift'er- 
ence  in  the  amount  of  light.  I  am  getting  stronger  very  slowly.  The  slight  increase  in  the  rations  will 
help  me  rapidly.  The  doctor  gave  me  iron  and  (juinine  to-<lay.  He  orders  me  to  take  my  rum  to  clay, 
half  at  noon  and  half  after  supper.  The  full  meals  to-day  have  the  usual  effect ;  they  lay  us  all  out,  and  many 
go  to  sleej)  and  conversation  flags.  It  is  strange  such  should  be  the  effect.  Several  of  the  men  have  been 
eating  little  scraps  of  stearine ;  this  jiractice  has  been  forbidden.  Iwery  one  almost  now  go  [goes]  out  a 
little  every  day.     Jewell  fainted  to-night  after  sup[)er,  just  after  coming  in  from  outside. 

Fi-hiiiiXiy  \. — IJarometcr,  29.79  |7S''.f'5'""'|  I  thermometer,  —24.5  [—31.4°  C.|.  IJreakfast — chocolate, 
bread,  and  butter.  Supjier — tea,  English  bread,  and  roast  beef.  Day  overcast.  We  had  considerable  winil 
last  night.  Orders  issued  this  morning  that  no  one  hereafter  was  to  cover  up  his  head  in  the  sleeping-bng 
iliiring  the  day.  Wc  have  been  very  much  in  this  habit.  The  doctor  pays  more  attention  now  to  the  men 
going  out  a  little  to  take  exercise.  Wc  now  have  to  melt  ice  each  day.  Jirainard  indisposed  to-day  and 
examined  by  the  doctor.  Our  meals  are  now  better,  and  the  slight  increase  is  (juitc  perce[)tible.  I  think  I 
am  getting  better  slowly.  My  feet  arc  very  much  swollen.  Many  of  the  men  arc  troubled  in  the  same  way. 
The  skin  is  very  thick  and  callous.    Elison  is  getting  along  well, 

February  5 — li.irometer,  29.90  (?)  [759.4s'""'];  thermometer,  —23  [—30.6°  C.J.  Day  calm  without 
wind.  IJreakfast— stew  of  pease,  iVc,  breail,  and  tea.  Very  fine  and  satisfactory  stew  of  pemmican,  American 
bread,  and  tea.  Stew  to-night  consisted  of  1  ounce  lime-juice  pemmican,  and  3  ounces  Hu<lson  IJay  pem- 
mican, 2i  ounces  bread,  and  blubber,  &c.  The  amount  of  bread  issued  in  plates  was  f^^  ounces.  Each 
man  gets  per  week  one  pound  blubber.  Ralston  is  making  very  good  stearinc  candles,  and  thus  a  good  deal 
of  blubber  is  saved  for  eating.  I  am  ordered  by  the  doctor  to  divide  my  bread  eriually  between  night  and 
morning.  To-night  I  ate  some  of  my  bread  cold  ;  then  when  the  stew  came  on  dumped  the  rest  in  the  stew. 
The  tea  overtook  me  before  I  had  finished  the  stew,  so  I  then  placed  the  remains  of  the  stew  in  a  can,  which 
I  will  keep  warm  in  the  sleeping-bag,  and  went  to  work  on  my  tea.  Brainard  is  now  under  the  weather 
•^oniewhat.  The  doctor  has  discovered  albumen  in  his  urine,  from  which,  with  certain  indications  of  the 
chest,  he  thinks  firainard  in  some  danger.  I  got  up  myself  to-day,  and  managed  to  get  out  of  doors  without 
the  .-assistance  of  Frederik  [ChristiansenJ,  but  fell  down  in  the  alley-way  coming  back,  and  also  fell  down  on 
getting  inside  here.  I  am  getting  stronger,  though,  daily.  This  week  is  to  be  a  feast.  Our  meals  are  fine. 
Smoking  is  pretty  much  stopjied.  I  have  some  tobacco  left,  but  cannot  use  it.  Statistics  to-day  by  Lieuten- 
ant Greely.  We  do  not  talk  so  much  now  about  food.  My  feet  are  all  puffed  up  and  half  numb.  This  is 
the  condition  of  the  feet  of  many  of  the  men.  We  think  and  talk  a  great  deal  of  Rice,  and  hope  for  aid. 
It  is  now  getting  daily  lighter.  Connell  was  on  the  hill  today  and  says  he  saw  all  the  way  across  to  the 
opposite  side  of  the  straits  without  finding  anything  like  open  water. 

February  G. — Harometer,  29.96  [760.97"'"'] ;  thermometer,  —21  [  —  29.4°  C.J.  Rice  returns. 
Fine  stew  in  the  morning  of  ox-tail  soup,  bread,  and  tea.  Supper — English  meat  and  pemmican  in  the 
hot  stew,  with  tea  and  bread.  The  stew  had  3  ounces  English  meat  and  i  ounce  lime-juice  pemmican. 
The  party  very  quiet  during  the  day,  the  usual  result  of  good  feeding.  Weather  cloudy  from  the  west  and 
also  from  the  east.  Statistics  to-day  by  Lieutenant  Greely,  and  remarks  by  Dr.  Pavy  on  ancient  history. 
Last  night  the  doctor  spoke  for  some  time  on  Alexander  the  Great.  Last  night  we  also  had  Kane,  Hayes, 
and  The  History  of  Our  Own  Times,  &c.  Rice  returned  to-day  at  1.15  p.  ni.  with  Jans  [JensJ,  both  alive 
and  well,  though  a  good  deal  broken  up  by  the  trip,  which  they  found  very  trying. 

Rice  did  not  get  across,  but  thinks  he  got  ten  miles  out  from  shore.  Here  he  found  open  water  up 
and  down  the  straits  as  far  as  he  could  see  and  as  far  as  he  went  in  the  two  directions.  It  seemed  to  extend 
north  and  south  indefinitely — moving  ice  in  it  and  dense  water-clouds  marking  its  progress.  He  does  not 
think  he  saw  the  Greenland  shore  at  any  time  during  his  ab.sence.  Saw  old  bear  tr.icks  but  nothing  else, 
and  no  game.      Thinks  he  traveled  50  miles  in  all,  and  would  have  been  acros    before  this,  probably  today, 


■.-^.^-■^rJHBca^ggB 


THE  LADY  l-'UANKLIN  HAY  KXPKDITION. 


423 


but  for  the  open  water.  Jans  [Jens]  showed  signs  of  fatigue  and  exhaustion  a  day. or  two  after  his  depart- 
ure,  and  frecpiently  expressed  himself  as  being  no  gooil.  He  was  weai<.  Koth  of  them  got  extremely 
little  sleep  and  many  falls  in  the  darkness.  I'ho  drinking  cup  got  a  hole  burned  in  it,  ami  they  suffered  a 
great  deal  for  lack  of  water.  Rice  and  Jans  [Jens]  returned  in  pretty  good  condition.  Of  course  we  are 
all  very  much  disappointed.  Our  rations  have  been  counted  on  to  extend  to  the  loth  of  March,  the  ten 
days  of  March  on  a  ration  of  1 2  ounces  bre.id  and  10  of  meat  for  ( rossing  the  straits.  So  here  is  the  upshot 
of  affairs.  Our  bread  is  now  64  ounces  per  week  every  man.  The  |)arty  take  a  hold  front  and  are  not 
wanting  in  spirit.  If  our  fate  is  the  worse  I  do  not  think  we  shall  disgrace  the  name  ol  .Vnuricans  and  of 
soldiers.  I  feel  stronger  to-night.  To-day  I  have  been  in  low  spirits,  and  alternately  feverish  and  (hilly. 
Singular  my  spirits  have  raised  this  evening. 

Fifiruary  7. — Uarometer,  29.61  [752.08"""];  thermometer,  —27.5  [— 33.i°C.|.  I'inc  ox-tail  soup  with 
bre.id,  \'c.,  for  breakfa.st.  My  appetite  fallen  off  somewhat,  and  I  kept  over  some  of  the  bread  until  late 
in  the  afternoon.  Supper  tonight,  a  very  fine  one,  of  3  ounces  of  Knglish  meat  and  1  of  lime-juice  pern- 
mican,  with  9  ounces  of  brc.ul  in  the  plate,  besides  a  little  in  the  stew.  Shortly  after  breakfast  Lieutenant 
Greely  announced  to  the  party  that  there  would  be  no  harm  in  trying  to  live  like  canary  birds'  appetites, 
and  that  after  thinking  over  the  subject  he  had  concluded  to  make  some  slight  reductions  in  the  rations, 
enough  to  allow  us  15  days  to  cross  the  straits — that  is,  we  can  st.ay  here  until  the  6th  of  March,  and  then 
have  15  days  to  cross  on  12  ounces  bread  .and  10  of  pemmican.  The  jiarty  are  very  much  <lisa|)p()inted,  of 
course,  but  show  wonderful  spirit  in  the  face  of  the  terrible  death  that  now  stares  us  in  the  face.  We  cannot 
count  on  getting  game  here,  and  it  is  idle  to  do  so — that  is,  until  April  sets  in,  if  then.  I  think  I  am  myself 
getting  a  little  stronger  every  day.  It  is  hard  work  under  such  depressing  surroundings.  I  get  the  use  of 
this  light  I  am  now  using  grudgingly.  Lieutenant  Oreely  gave  us  some  statistics  to-day.  We  had  conversa- 
tion on  foo<l.  At  times  my  s|)irits  have  been  very  low,  I  must  confess  it.  Should  I  leave  my  bones  here, 
may  my  dear  father,  mother,  sisters,  and  Harry,  and  all  know  how  often  they  have  been  in  my  thoughts,  and 
hosv  often  in  the  late  year  it  h.is  been  a  source  of  gr^-at  regret  that  I  have  not  been  a  kinder  brother,  or  a 
more  dutiful  or  affectionate  son.  Hut  aw.ay  with  these  gloomy  thoughts !  The  dear  ones  at  home  shall  yet 
see  me,  and  see  me  as  1  would  wish  to  be,  not  as  I  have  been.  IJlowing  to-day  in  gusts.  Very  few  of  us 
went  out.     Rice  started  on  the  return  here  Monday  noon. 

Fchruary  8. — Barometer,  39.82  [7i;7.4i"'"'| ;  thermometer,  —36  [ — 37.8''C. |;  below  scale  at  i  o'clock. 
Breakfast  consisted  of  coffee,  butter,  anil  hard  bre.id.  I  made  a  very  good  meal.  Supper  to-night — very 
fine  stew,  consisting  of  one  ounce  lime-juice  pemmican  and  our  last  fox.  It  was  very  fine  with  the  hard  bread 
and  very  satisfactory.  Our  bread  expected  for  Sund.ay.  Bender  taken  sick  last  night  and  i:alled  on  the 
doctor;  some  affection  of  the  side.     The  Kskimo  was  moannig,  Schneider  said  crying 

Brainard  is  better  this  morning,  and  I  feel  stronger  and  can  now  get  u|)  without  .assistance.  F  went 
out  to-day  and  walked  the  length  of  the  lake — fell  down  once.  It  distresses  me  a  great  <leal  that  I,  who 
regard  myself  .as  among  the  strongest  of  the  party,  should  seem  to  be  among  the  weakest.  Ciariliner  and 
others  report  the  Greenland  coast  .is  distinctly  visible  to-d.ay,  and  between  here  and  Cairn  Point  a|)parently 
no  water — that  is,  no  water-clouils.  Our  situ.ation  is  deplored  [deplorable].  W^e  are  hardly  able  to  take  our- 
selves along,  and  yet  will  undoubtedly  have  sick  ones  to  carry.  Rice  [iroposes  to  start  out  again  by  himself, 
and  witl.out  sleeping-bag,  &c.  it  will  be  pitiable  if  this  party,  after  lighting  short  rations,  cold,  iVc,  all  winter, 
is  (loomed  to  die  in  the  .spring.  Poor  Elison  I  am  afraid  will  never  survive.  How  often  I  think  of  the  dear 
ones  at  home,  the  Sunday  evening  reunions,  and  .ill  the  bright  and  happy  pictures  that  ])resent  themselves. 
My  dear,  good  old  father,  may  he  look  with  charity  on  my  many  shortcomings.  My  dear  mother  and  sisters, 
and  Harry,  brothers-in-law,  and  nieces — I  trust  God  they  are  all  well  and  ha|)])y,  and  if  I  do  not  pull 
through  this,  will  le.irn  to  look  on  my  memory  kindly.  Hayes'  book  ["  Open  Pol.ar  Sea"]  w.as  re.id  last  night, 
and  also  McCarthy's  history. 

February  (). — Barometer,  30.01  [762.24"'™];  thermometer,  —36  [  — 37-8°  C]  to  — 38  [— 38.9°  C.j. 
Breakfast — rice  and  tomato  soup  with  chocolate.  Supper — American  bacon  and  English  bread  and  te.a — 4 
ounces  of  b.acon  and  lY^  of  bre.ad-  Also  I  have  some  butter  yet  remaining  from  the  last  issue;  so  made  a 
very  good  meal. 

At  noon  to-day  I  ate  two  dog-biscuit  saved  from  this  morning.  I  find  I  have  not  so  much  appetite  as 
I  used  to  have — especially  in  the  morning.  I  had  to  go  out  immediately  after  breakfast  this  morning. 
Was  .assisted  by  Brainard,  but  got  thoroughly  chilled  through.  I  find  it  hard  to  overcome  the  apathy  and 
indifference  engendered  by  my  present  condition  and  the  poor  prospects  ahead  of  us.     Windy  this  morning. 


424 


TIIH  hADY   I'UANKLIN  HAY  KXPKIUTION. 


hut  not  so  much  so  later  in  the  il.iy.  \Vc  <  m  remain  here  until  about  the  lotii  of  March,  so  Lieutenant 
(Ireely  says,  anil  thi'ii  have  15  days  t'or  crossini^.  It  will  be  ne<'essiiry  to  make  some  small  reduction  of  ratiiuis 
to  do  this.  Nordenskiiiid  was  read  last  nij^ht  and  also  Hayes,  \t.  'I'o-day  we  had  some  personal  reminis- 
(■en(  es  from  Rii  e  and  otiiers,  but  the  day  has  passed  without  very  uuich  life. 

/•'i/irutiry  10. —  llanimeter,  J9.80  [7i;6.9i"""| ;  thermometer,  —  3.^  |  —36.1''  ('.|.  Mreakfast — fme"son-of- 
a-jjuii,"  very  satisfu-tory,  and  chocolate.  Supper — fme  stew  of  seal  meat,  blubber,  and  lime  juice  pemmican, 
with  American  bread  and  tea.  I  climbed  over  to  Lieutenant  (ireeley's  bag  this  eveninfj,  Jewell  tiikiiig  my 
place.  I  shall  j;o  bar  k  and  spend  the  night  at  home.  1  have  not  been  feeling  very  well  today — have 
taken  no  exercise.  Weather  «'alm  ;  moon  shining  brightly.  Very  little  conversation  during  the  day,  the 
full  meals  having  the  usual  elTect.  The  temperature  inside  here  n(.\»'  during  the  day  is  on  the  average  about 
+  23,  or  +24  |  — S-o  or  — 4.4"  t,'.|  during  the  evening,  .md  about  +-•'*  ( —  -■2°  ^'-l  during  the  day.  The 
last  of  the  seals  comes  with  stews  next  Sunday.  The  last  of  the  fox  went  on  Kriday.  That  one  made  the 
24th  fox. 

luhnuxry  11, — Harometer,  29.74  f7SS-.^8"'"'] ;  thermometer,  — 36  f  — 37.8"  C.|.  Made  a  satisfactory 
meal  this  morning  of  chocolate,  Americ.m  bread,  and  butter.  .Supper  to-night  consists  of  7J/J  ounces  of 
bread,  4  of  bacon  and  tea.  Mv  a|)petite  is  now  somewhat  small,  ami  [  get  along  ipiite  well  on  the  rediu  ed 
allowance.  My  face  is  very  thin — my  legs  like  broomsticks;  I  am  getting  stronger  slowly,  but  it  is  very 
slowly  indeed.  I  can  hardly  rise  from  a  sitting  posture  on  my  haunches  to  an  erect  position  To'  fmd 
myself  in  this  condition  is  very  depressing  to  my  si)irits.  Hr.iiiiard  opened  rum  barrel  to-day,  and  found  a 
deficit  of  about  several  gallons  in  the  rum  keg.  There  will  be  no  more  issued  except  medicinally.  'I'here 
was  an  overhauling  of  several  boxes  to-day  to  get  out  frozen  clothing,  ^'c,  underneath.  Frost  everywhere, 
above,  below,  and  around.  Schneider  made  a  confession  this  morning  of  having  made  away  with  some  bread 
at  difterent  times,  but  denied  being  < oncerned  in  the  loss  of  the  milk.  It  is  now  (|uite  light  in  the  middle  of 
the  day.  Weather  to-day  calm.  The  spirits  of  the  party  are  very  good  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  six 
weeks  may  find  us  on  this  siile  of  the  straits,  with  no  possible  way  of  crossing  on  account  of  open  water,  no 
food,  and  nothing  but  death  before  us.  Whisler  expressed  the  o|)inion  that  we  shoultl  never  reach  Littleton 
Island,  but  this  is  the  first  occasion  1  have  heard  anything  of  the  kind  said.  Personal  reminiscences  last 
night. 

Fihniary  12. — Barometer,  29.71  [754.62"""!;  thermometer  below  scale.  Breakfast — pc.ase  stew  with 
blubber,  bread,  and  tea.  Supper — stew  consisting  of  one  ounce  lime-juice  pemmican,  3  of  American  roast 
beef,  .Vmerican  bread,  and  tea.  We  have  57  ounces  of  bread  per  week  now.  i  have  not  very  much  appetite 
now.  I  went  out  on  the  lake  to-day  with  the  assistance  of  Kskimo  Frederik,  and  [am|  very  weak  and  very  thin. 
Day  tine,  though  very  cold — calm.  Roar  of  ice  heard  out  in  the  straits.  Rice  says  this  moving  ice  extends 
uj)  and  down  indetinitely.  Well,  it  must  close  up  and  allow  us  to  cross  over  in  the  course  of  a  {ti.\s  weeks 
or  more,  or  our  days  are  numbereil.  Smoke,  dirt,  cold,  hunger,  and  every  discomfort.  I  shall  be  glad  when 
the  end  comes,  whatever  it  is  to  be.  I  was  in  very  low  spirits  for  some  hours  after  breakfiist,  but  after- 
wards felt  better.     My  mouth  is  very  much  parched  with  the  hot  tea.     The  membrane  seems  very  weak. 

Memorandum:   Lieutenant  (Ireely  has  a  pocket  pistol  of  mine,  nickel-plated. 

Some  preparations  are  under  way  for  crossing  the  straits  when  the  ice  allows. 

Ftl'iuary  13. — Barometer,  29.82  [757.41"""!;  thermometer,  —34  [  — 36.7°  C.j.  Dense  water  clouds 
out  in  the  straits,  running  north  and  south,  and  a  noise  of  moving  ice  heard  during  the  day.  It  is  a  very 
ominous  sound — our  rations  ex])ire  before  long.  Breakfast  this  morning  a  stew  consisting  of  i  >/^  ounces  of 
bacon  and  2  of  bread,  besides  a  little  extract  meat — very  little.  Supper — one  ounce  lime-juice  jjemmican  and 
3  of  F2nglish  meat  in  a  stew.  I  have  felt  out  of  sorts  during  the  day.  The  feelings  of  the  party  do  not  seem 
to  be  what  they  were,  though  they  remain  very  high  considering  our  deplorable  prospects.  We  now  live 
from  one  meal  to  another.  Little  is  said  about  the  (juick  ap|)roach  of  the  .sun.  I  did  not  go  out  to-day  .as 
there  was  too  much  wind.  Get  chille<l  through  very  easily  now.  Lieutenant  (Ireely  turned  over  to  me  my 
))oc.ket  pistol.  Rice  spoke  of  the  Campbell  family  during  the  day.  His  remarks  were  (juite  interesting.  We 
are  all  extremely  dirty  and  greasy. 

Ffbniatj  14. — Barometer,  29.64  [752.84"'"'];  thermometer,  —28  [— 33.3''C.]  (at  noon),  —17  [  —  27.2°  C] 
afternoon.  Breakfast — ox-tail  soup.  Supper — pemmican  and  English  meat;  3  ounces  of  bread  per  man  in 
stew,  and  6  in  pl;'.te.  We  had  considerable  wind  last  night,  but  during  t!ie  day  the  weather  has  been  very 
good,  calm,  and  bright.  Kvidences  of  ojien  water  seem  to  have  disajjpeared  to  a  great  exten  t.  The  noise  of 
moving  ice  could  not  be  heard.     I  went  out  to-day  a  liiile  ways  oii  the  lake,  but  soon  came  back;  a  little 


TIIK  liADY  KUANKMN  IIAV  KXPKDrTION. 


41';") 


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in 

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of 

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exercise  is  very  exhausting;.  Talk  all  ilay  on  the  siihjei  t  nl'  food  and  dislies.  After  sii|)|)er  Lieutenant 
(ireely  came  over  to  my  i)eil  awhile  to  make  ini|uiries  almut  my  health,  iVc,  He  is  pulling  thrDunh  \  >ry 
well.  He  retains  his  slrenj;th  ami  tlcsii  very  well,  and  also  his  spirits.  We  arc  all  very  dirty;  my  hands  ami 
face  are  actually  black  in  color.  All  our  clothes  arc  « overed  with  grease  and  dirt.  .Sonic  li^ht  |ire|iarations 
are  noinjj;  on  towards  our  hoped-for  departure  for  (Ireenlaiid.  I  liope,  almost  against  hope,  that  if  we  are 
fortunate  enough  to  find  the  channel  closed,  I  shall  he  well  enough  to  get  along  without  hel|». 

luhnutiy  15. — Itarometer,  30. oj;  [7^1^.75 | ;  thermometer,  —25  [  -31.7°  ('.|.      More  or  less  wi<d  from 

the  west.  I  diil  not  go  out  to-day.  llreakfast — American  hread,  coflfee,  and  liutter.  .Supper —  •  w  of  1 
ounce  lime  juice  pennni(  an,  roast  beef,  bread,  and  tea.  The  i:onversation  to-day  has  been  kept  up  very 
well.  I  do  little  talking,  fmding  it  dilhcult  to  raise  my  voice.  I  fmil  myself  pursued  by  iiinui,  aimlessness, 
apathy,  and  inditfercnce,  produced  by  luinger,  cold,  gloom,  dirt,  and  all  the  niiseries  of  this  existence.  1 
am  very  weak,  both  physically  and  morally,  and  fmd  it  impossible  to  shake  these  sad  thoughts  olV.  How- 
ever, to-day  my  spirits  have  been  better  than  usual.  .\  '.)ri;^ht  glow  on  Itathe  Island  reported  to-day.  Hay 
after  to-morrow  the  sun  will  be  visible  above  the  hori/on,  though  not  to  us  here,  as  the  hills  will  kejp  it  off 
our  house  for  some  time  to  come.  We  now  burn  stearine  candles  unite  regularly.  'I'hc  .s|)irits  of  the  party 
remain  very  good  indeed. 

Fibniitry  16. — liarometer,  J9.62  [752.33"""];  thermometer,  — 18.5  (  —  28.1°  C).  llreakfast — sou|>  of 
corn  and  pease.  Supper — bacon,  Knglish  bread,  and  tea.  I  feel  almost  as  hungry  now  as  before  supper. 
More  or  less  wind  to-day  froni  the  west.  I  went  out  and  took  a  few  steps  on  the  lake,  with  the  help  of 
I'rederik  [Christiansen].  Feel  very  weak,  extremely  so,  though  in  other  respects  |)retty  well;  though  my 
condition  does  not  conduce  to  make  my  spirits  very  high.  Open  water  is  reported  close  to  Cape  Sabine. 
There  is  no  noise  of  moving  ice,  however.  It  w.as  very  bright  to-day,  and  the  rcllection  of  the  sun  was  seen 
on  Itache  Island.  The  sun  does  not  make  us  enthuse  very  much,  however;  we  are  too  near  tlie  end  of  our 
rations,  with  .\  very  poor  prospect  of  incre.ising  them  at  Littleton  Island.  Personal  reminiscences  to-day  by 
Lieutenant  (Ireely,  and  mythology  by  the  doctor.  Not  much  talk  on  the  subject  of  the  future.  We  all 
look  forward  to  the  fme  "son-of-a-gun"  and  stew  to-morrow.  Sunday  is  a  re<l-letter  day  in  o^t  calen<lar. 
My  hands  are  numb  with  cold,  and  it  is  extremely  dilHcult  to  write  with  dirty  hands  in  this  poor  light.  I 
sec  no  prospects  of  the  straits  being  closed  at  the  end  of  the  month.  To  my  mind  we  must  fmd  game  here, 
or  else  receive  help  from  Littleton  Island.  It  will  soon  all  be  ilecided,  thank  Cioil.  (lod  bless  the  dear 
ones  at  home,  who,  I  am  sure,  think  and  talk  daily  of  me.  How  often  my  thoughts  wander  to  ihein  and 
to  the  familiar  scenes.     Oh!  would  that  I  had  the  f.icilities  of  writing  a  letter  to  them. 

Fil'iiiaiy  17. — Harometer,  29.42  [747.2  5"'"'[ ;  thermometer,  —  15  [  —  26.10  C.].  A  fme  " son-of-a-gun  "  for 
breakfast,  thoug)i  it  had  no  milk — cracklings,  lard,  and  American  haril  bread.  Supper  tn-n  ight — fine  seal  stew 
— our  last — very  thick  and  filling,  comparatively,  and  American  bread.  I  say  filling,  though  one  finishes 
the  best  of  these  dishes  with  a  great  longing  for  more.  During  the  day  Schneider  gave  some  personal  remi- 
niscences of  the  coast  trade  along  the  New  England  co.ist,  and  a  general  conversation  was  ke|)t  U|)  during 
the  day.  Roar  of  moving  ice  heard  in  the  straits,  and  open  water  reported  extending  up  and  down  the 
straits  indefinitely.  Sky  somewhat  overcast,  so  that  we  do  not  see  the  sun.  It  is  necessary  to  go  up  on 
Carlington  [Bedford  PimJ  Island  to  see  the  horizon  to  the  south.  I  have  remained  in  the  sleeping-bag  all 
day,  my  feet  being  very  cold,  and  I  am  feeling  out  of  sorts.  Nordenskiold's  book  was  reail  List  night  anil 
the  night  before. 

Frbniary  18. — Barometer,  29.49  [749.03"'"'];  thermometer,  noon,  —6.5  [  —  21.4°  C] ;  (later,  —2 
(  —  18.9°  C.]).  Breakfast — coflfee,  bread,  and  butter,  and  two  ounces  of  roast  beef;  this  last  w.is  an  extra 
issue.  Supper  to-night — American  bacon,  bread,  and  tea.  I  went  out  to-day  on  the  lake.  Find  my.self  a 
little  stronger,  but  very,  very  weak  still.  It  was  (juite  calm.  Over  the  top  of  the  rocks  to  the  south  the  sky 
was  a  beautiful  rose  color.  Long  went  out  to  the  northeast  for  about  four  miles,  he  says,  taking  his  gun. 
Saw  no  seals  nor  .any  signs  of  game,  but  tracks  of  one  fox.  Reports  about  the  ice  to  day  rather  contradictory, 
but  there  seems  to  be  more  or  less  open  water  oflT  in  the  straits.  Rice  returned  from  the  top  of  Carlington 
[Bedford  Pim]  Island,  as  it  has  been  called,  where  he  went  to  get  a  look-out.  He  did  not  succeed  in  getting 
very  good  view,  on  account  of  the  weather  turning  cloudy,  iS:c.  He  reports  top  sandy  and  quite  level  in 
most  places.  Where  it  is  not  so,  the  little  dejjressions  are  full  of  snow.  Rice  reports  a  great  de.al  of  open 
water;  could  see  about  eight  miles,  he  thought.  Our  American  bacon,  F^nglish  meat,  corned  beef,  carrots, 
j)ease,  i\:c.,  arc  now  gone.  We  are  drawing  nearer  the  end  of  our  rations.  The  prospect  of  getting  more  is 
rather  dismal.     We  are  all  very  hopeful,  however.     We  won't  say  die  till  die  we  must. 


426 


TUB  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPKDlTlOlt. 


i  i 


liVt^ 


February  19. — Karomcter,  29,58  [751.32"""];  thermometer, -|-2. 2  [—16.6  C.].  Hreakfast — ox-tail  soup, 
bread,  ami  tea.  Supper — stew  of  one  ounce  of  lime-juice  pemmican,  three  of  American  roast  beef,  besides 
blubber,  and  bread.  The  wind  blew  (piite  hard  last  night,  and  during  the  forenoon  to-day.  In  the  afternoon 
the  wind  died  away  and  the  day  became  fine.  Hrainard  went  on  the  heights  and  reiiorts  open  Polar  sea 
extending  up  and  down,  just  outside  of  Sabine,  and  out  as  far  as  the  water  clouds  would  allow  him  to  see. 
Heard  ([uite  a  roar  of  the  moving  ice.  The  thermometer  has  ranged  to-day  as  high  .is  +8.5  [—  13.1°  C], 
and  from  that  to  — 3  [— 19.4°  C.|.  This  evening  it  is  above  zero  [—17.8°  C.J,  and  we  have  (juite  a  drip  in  the 
liut.  We  now  look  forward  to  our  meals.  We  are  afraid  to  look  any  farther.  Ralston  seems  to  be  getting 
a  felon  on  his  finger.  (,)uite  a  number  have  sore  fingers.  The  [)resent  issue-week  is  a  red-letter  one.  'I"he 
following  is  a  memorandu'.ii  of  the  bread  issued:  Saturday,  6=6.  Sunday,  8=3.  Monday,  7  =  7.  Tues- 
day, 10=6=7.  Wednesday,  7  =  7.  Thursday.  9=9.  Friday,  9=6^4  =  2 '<j.  The  first  number  of  each  of 
these,  after  the  days  of  the  week,  shows  the  tot,'  amount.  The  second,  the  amount  in  plate.  The  third, 
the  amount  in  stew.  Last  night  Ralston  gave  us  his  army  experience.  Frederick  is  doing  something  on  the 
foot-gear,  .and  some  other  preparations  are  going  on  slowly  in  the  w.ay  of  socks,  &c.,  for  our  Iioi)ed-for  de- 
parture to  the  other  side. 

February  y.o. — Harometcr,  29.92  [759.95"""];  thermometer,  — 5.5  [— 20.8°  C.].  Some  wind  from  the 
west  to-day.  At  one  time  it  blew  (juite  hard.  Thermometer  at  8  o'clock,  —  1 1.2  [  — 24.0°  C.].  Ureakfast — 
ox-tail  soup  and  chocolate ;  and  su|)per — lime-juice  pemmican  (1  ounce),  and  3  ounces  of  meat.  The  straits 
are  open,  and  I  see  no  prospects  of  their  being  frozen  up  so  that  we  can  get  across.  Of  course  I  hope  to 
the  contrary.  Of  course  this  means  death  unless  we  can  find  some  game  here.  Long  went  out  hunting 
with  Frederik,  Isskimo,  this  morning,  but  saw  nothing.  Hrainard  was  up  on  the  hill  again.  No  game  nor 
tr.acks  of  game  seen  except  our  raven  of  last  tall.  It  has  been  dripping  badly  in  here  to-day.  We  live 
from  one  meal  to  another  and  look  forward  to  these  miserable  feasts.  The  Knglish  hard  bread,  hard  and 
moldy,  tastes  better  to-day  than  the  Vienna  bread  I  got  at  the  Centennial.  The  sjjirits  of  the  party  are 
good  and  we  bear  up  finely  against  adverse  fate.     Our  spirits  are  generally  best  about  meal  time. 

February  2\. — Harometer,  29.44  [747.76"'"' | ;  thermometer  at  noon,  —3  [— i9.4"C.].  Thermometer 
has  ranged  during  the  day  from  near  zero  [—  1 7.8°  C.  |,  to  7  below  |  —  2 1.7°  C.  |.  Hreakfast — soup  of  rice  and 
tomatoes.  Supper — lime-juice  pemmican  and  canned  meat.  Rice  went  on  the  hill-si<le  to-day  and  came 
back  about  supper  time  (2.30  p.  ni.),  reporting  that  continuoi.  0  seemed  to  exist  between  Sabine  and  the 
opposite  cc  ist,  needing  only  cold  weather  to  afford  a  passage  acrcws.  The  spirits  of  the  party  visibly  aflected 
by  the  news.  I  was  out  to-day  for  a  turn  on  the  lake.  I  find  myself  a  little  stronger,  but  .cry  weak.  I  am 
very  thin,  (lot  out  my  moccasins  to-day  from  under  the  sleeping-bag.  Ralston  has  a  very  bad  finger,  some- 
thing like  a  felon  on  it.  C'onversation  during  the  day  on  food,  dishes,  I'vrc.  Remarks  by  Dr.  I'avy  on 
French  History.  Reading  last  nigiit  of  Nordenskiold  and  McCarthy's  History — the  last  is  being  re-read. 
The  sun  has  not  yet  been  seen,  but  the  sky  looks  beautiful,  and  the  reflection  on  liache  Island  is  (|uite  <-on- 
spicuous.     It  has  been  drip[)ing  in  here  to-day  and  especially  to-night  tearfully. 

February  22. — liarometer  29.51  [749.54"'"'];  thermometer, —6  [  —  21.1°  C).  The  range  of  the  ther- 
mometer during  the  day  has  been  about  half  a  dozen  degrees,  from  that  near  to  zero  [—17.8"  ('.[.  lireak- 
fast — "son-of-a-gun"  and  coffee,  Sujjper — stew  of  all  pemmican — 4  ounces  per  man.  At  noon  we  had 
cloudberries — 2  cans  to  each  mess;  but  the  two  hardly  made  one  can,  as  they  had  been  punched  with  holes 
in  some  way  and  were  nearly  dried  out.  Our  friend  of  last  fall — the  raven — lias  been  seen  around  again. 
We  arc  waiting  to  shoot  it  for  fi)od.  The  "son-of-a-gun"  this  morning  had  20  ounces  of  lard  and  about 
the  same  of  blubber.  The  blubber  tastes  deliciously.  In  fact,  it  would  be  hard  to  say  what  does  not  t;,ste 
delicious  now.  Our  food  is  slowly  increased  now  in  some  respects — that  is,  we  get  a  stronger  kind  of  meat. 
We  watch  the  cooks,  however,  in  dealing  out,  like  hungry  dogs.  One  never  has  enough.  I  went  out  on  the 
lake  to-day  and  walked  the  length  of  it.  1  am  very  weak,  and  have  not  gotten  much  stronger  since  yester- 
day. Thank  (lod!  the  end  of  thi'-;  comes  l)efi)re  very  long.  It  must  come  to  a  head  one  way  or  another 
before  very  long,  Ralston  has  a  coming  felon  en  his  finger.  Day  overcast,  but  sky  clear.  Hache  Island 
and  the  island  to  the  north  of  it  ipiite  visible.  Cod  protect  and  take  care  of  my  dear  father,  mother,  and 
those  at  home.  It  dri])s  very  much  inside  here  of  late.  The  thermometer  inside  ranges  just  below  zero 
[C-entigrade|,  and  a  little  above  at  meals.     My  feet  are  all  puffed  up. 

February  23. —  liarometer,  30.07  [763.76'"'"];  thermometer,  —4  j— 20.0"  C.J.  The  temperature  has 
ranged  just  below  zero  [  —  1 7.8°  (.!.|  during  the  <lay.  Last  night  we  had  a  very  fierce  wind  from  the  east, 
which  continued    this   morning,  ilrifting  consiiierable  snow.      The  storm   went   down   in    the    afternoon. 


„,!  J/j::;:^;--::^:^^— 


TlIK  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXPEDITION. 


427 


None  went  out  except  the  men  to  cut  the  ice  anil  the  Kskinio  who  bring  it  in.  Hreakfast — soup  of  extract 
meat  and  corn.  Supper  to-night — KngUsh  bacon,  4  ounces,  anil  hard  bread.  Sliortly  -ifter  breakfast  this 
morning  Lieutenant  Greely  said  that  he  had  had  a  conununication  from  Lieutenant  Kislingi)ury,  the  suiistance 
of  which  was  that  the  latter  ailvised  making  arrangements  to  send  to  Littleton  Island,  just  as  soon  as  an 
opportunity  offers,  the  four  strongest  of  the  party  to  get  assistance.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  saw  great  jieril 
in  tlu'  |)arty  proceeding  as  a  body,  and  thought  that  four  of  the  best  men  could  go  and  bring  back  aid  in 
the  shape  of  provisions,  ^rc.  Lieutenant  Greely  did  not  endorse  his  opinion  on  the  subject,  and  it  did  not 
seem  to  meet  witii  favor  with  any  one  else.  Lieutenant  (Ircely  announced  that  his  arrangements  and  prep- 
arations simply  anticipated  starting  with  the  party  just  as  soon  as  the  straits  formed  a  bridge  by  which  we 
can  get  over — the  great  risk  and  danger  in  such  an  undertaking  is,  of  course,  recognized.  No  reduction 
of  rations  is  entertaini';',  as  what  we  now  get  is  barely  enough,  and  yet,  on  the  other  hand,  the  rations  can- 
not well  be  increased.  Our  prospects  are  not  good.  We  now  live  from  one  meal  to  another,  and  t':e  count- 
ing of  days  to  dates  ahead  has  stopped  completely.  A  great  deal  of  talk  to-day  on  tlie  subject  of  food. 
We  discuss  every  phase  of  it.  I  find  myself  still  very  weak.  I  have  not  been  out  of  the  sleei>ingbag  to-day. 
I  am  extremely  weak  and  thin,  and  any  effort  requires  great  exertion.  It  is  now  ipiitc  light.  It  has  been 
drii)|)ing  inside  .all  day  in  a  very  b.ad  way.     It  kee|)s  everytiiing  wet  and  damp. 

/'W'/iM/y  24. — Harometer,  29.99  [761.73"""!;  thermometer, —13  |— 25.o"('.|.  Yesterday's  storm  con- 
tinued until  late  in  the  aftqrnoon,  blowing  and  drifting  with  great  violeme.  breakfast  this  morning — a  thick 
and  filling  "son-of-a-gun,"  to  which  we  looked  forw.ird  ever  since  that  on  Washington's  birthday,  on  the  22d. 
Sui)per  to-night  consists  of  a  real  feast  of  e^y^  <ninies  of  jjcnunican  j>er  man,  3  >  inces  of  blubber,  and  3  of 
bread;  it  will  make  a  grand  stew.  No  bread  is  issued  this  evening.  Wc  have  tc.i.  I  managed  to  rei)ri'ss  my 
appetite,  and  saved  two  American  hard-tack  from  last  night,  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  "  son-ofa-gun  "  from  break- 
fast this  morning,  so  as  to  have  a  real  meal  to-night,  i  ate  half  of  the  latter,  however,  to-day  at  noon.  It  is 
amazing  how  pitiable  these  efforts  are  to  cheat  the  stomach.  I  was  out  this  morning  for  a  few  minutes.  Light 
shar[)  wind  from  the  west.  Somewhat  hazy.  Barometer  falling.  Some  of  the  party  went  on  the  hill,  and 
llrainard  reports  the  tlreenland  coast  very  clear  to  view,  and  a  great  deal  of  open  water  in  pools  lies  in  niid- 
ciiannel  to  the  north  of  Cape  Sabine;  none  was  apparent  directly  between  Sabine  and  Cireenland.  I  am 
gaining  strength  very  slowly  indeed.  This  morning  1  could  hardly  get  u])  from  off  my  haunches  when  out  of 
doors,  and  had  to  call  on  Frtderik  [Christiansen]  for  assistance.  The  spirits  of  the  i)arty  remain  very  good — 
wonderfully  so  considering.  We  have  a  little  reading  e\ery  night.  It  is  generally  kept  up  until  about  <) 
o'clock,  though  many  of  the  party  drop  off  to  sleep  before  that.  My  feet,  as  well  as  those  of  i|uilc  a  nundicr, 
are  all  puffed  up  and  swollen,  the  skin  very  thick  and  callous.  Dripjiing  inside  here  is  pretty  mm  h  stopped 
to-day.     The  doctor  is  now  making  some  remarks  on  French  history. 

Memorandum ;  Charlotte  of  ajjples. 

Ralston  has  a  felon. 

February  25. — Barometer,  29.45  [748.02"""!;  thermometer,  —14  [  —  25.6"  C.].  Breakfast — S  ounces  of 
American  bread,  chocolate,  and  butter  yet  remaining  from  last  week.  Supper — 7  oimces  of  .American  bread, 
4  ounces  of  bacon,  and  tea,  with  some  butter  yet  remaining.  The  meals  today  have  been  very  fme.  The 
English  bacon  this  evening  was  very  much  liked  .ind  could  not  be  enough  praised.  All  sorts  of  extravagant 
statements  arc  indulged  in  regarding  it,  though  I  hold  that  our  situation  renders  us  incapable  of  judging. 
A  good  deal  of  wind  to-ilay  with  drifting  snow.  Blowing  all  last  night.  The  straits  are  evidently  all  open. 
We  are  making  |)rcparations,  of  course,  however,  in  the  way  of  getting  fool-gear,  I've,  ready,  but  the  time 
approaches  when  we  shall  be  out  of  rations,  and  then,  unless  wc  get  seal,  we  arc  done  for,  in  my  private 
opinio:\  for  I  see  no  chance  of  crossing  the  straits  on  the  ice,  though  in  this  I  hope  I  am  mistaken.  I  have 
been  ui)  'wice  to-day  for  exercise,  though  I  did  not  go  out.  'i'herc  is  now  a  good  deal  of  light,  though 
the  sun  ha  1  not  been  seen  directly.  How  often  I  think  of  those  dear  ones  at  home,  and  my  own  familiar 
table  of  sirs  of  the  past  present  themselves.  My  spirits  were  low  all  this  morning,  but  are  much  better  this 
evening.  This  ile[)ression  seems  to  accompany  my  loss  of  physical  strength.  The  range  of  the  thermom- 
eter inside  !tere  to-day  has  been  about  40;  from  about  -I-13  [—10.6°  C'.|  to  -I-40  \.\..\"  ('.].  Outside  it. has 
been  from  -  10  [  —  23.3°  C.J  this  evening  to  —37  [  —38.3°  C!  this  morning. 

Fibrutiry  id. — Barometer,  29.81  [757.16"""!;  thermometer,  —13  [—25.0"  C.J.  1  missed  the  reading 
last  night.  Have  gone  to  sleep  shortly  after  the  supper  several  tii  ics  of  late  and  slept  through.  Breakfast — 
ox-tail  soup  with  extract  meat.  Supper — fine  slew,  consisting  of  3  ounces  roast  beef,  1  of  lime-juice  pcmmi- 
can,  3  of  bread,  some  blubber,  potatoes,  &c.     We  had  5  ounces  of  bread  in  the  plates  to  each  man.     It  was 


'128 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


"i  I 


■    ;l  ' 


only  wanting  in  the  usual  respect — not  enough  of  it.  We  look  forward  all  day  to  supper,  and  then  to  break- 
fast the  next  morning.  It  is  all  we  have  to  live  for  apparently.  There  is  little  talk  uf  our  '  umeiliate  future. 
We  all  seem  to  dread  it.  In  fact,  unless  we  succeed  in  getting  game  on  this  side,  we  are  •  ry  likely  to  share 
the  fate  of  Franklin's  exi)edition.  Day  calm  and  cloudy.  .\  great  deal  of  water  in  the  straits  between  here 
and  the  opposite  shore.  I  went  out  to-d.ay  with  the  help  of  Frederik,  F-skimo,  and  took  a  walk  to  tiie  end 
of  the  lake.  I  am  regaining  strength  very  slowly  indeed.  I  am  very,  very  weak.  Well,  every  day  brings 
us  nearer  the  end  of  this,  whatever  the  end  is  to  be,  and  I  am  glad  of  it.  The  conversation  of  the  party  i's 
now  constantly  on  the  subject  of  food  again,  restaurants,  iVc.  The  raven  was  seen  to-d.ay.  Would  that  I 
could  write  a  letter  to  my  dear  father  and  the  dear  ones  at  home,  but  it  is  impossible,  under  the  present  cir- 
cumstances, to  i)ut  down  more  tlian  these  notes. 

Fehnuvy  27. — Harometer,  29.90  [759.45"""];  thermometer,  —22.5  [—30.3°  C.].  The  thermometer  lias 
since  fallen  as  low  as  —27  [  —  32.8°  C.].  'I'he  day  bright  and  fine.  The  sky  to  the  east  very  clear,  and  it 
is  thought  that  the  sun  migiit  be  seen  from  the  hill,  but  those  who  went  up  tliere  were  dis.appointcd.  lireak- 
fast — soup  of  ij^  ounces  bacon  and  3  of  bread,  with  ciiocolate.  Supper  to-night — 3^  ounces  roast  beef 
and  half  ounce  pemmican.  Our  canned  stuff  is  gradu.ally  going,  and  the  variety  of  rations  will  soon  be 
gone.  We  now  have  the  strongest  left.  We  shall  soon  liave  a  shut-down,  and  I  am  not  sorry  for  it.  The 
doctor  made  some  remarks  on  French  history  to-day.     I  was  out  on  the  lake  this  morning. 

Memorandum:  The  chronometer  in  my  pocket  is  the  one  used  on  tiie  trip  to  83°  24',  and  on  all  my 
trips  in  this  region.  My  intention  is  to  buy  it,  and  in  case  I  do  not  get  back  I  would  have  it  purchased  and 
kept  in  my  family. 

Ffbruaiy  28. — Barometer,  29.92  [759.95"""!;  thermometer,  — 26.5  [ — 32.5°  C.].  Breakfast — ox-tail 
soup  and  tea.  Supper — roast-beef  stew  with  3  ounces  of  bread  in  it.  iiread  and  butter  issued  to-night  for 
morning.  Day  calm  and  clear.  Walked  down  to  the  end  of  the  lake  \\  ih  Frederik  [Christiansen].  Felt  a 
little  stronger  than  usual.  I  got  three  pieces  nearly  whole  hard-tack  in  my  plate  to-night,  with  some  small 
pieces,  in  all  making  about  four  hard-tack  or  less,  and  asked  Lieutenant  Cireely  if  this  was  siipposed  to  be 
six  hard-tack.  My  (piestion  was  misunderstood  as  a  retlection  on  the  cook  or  on  Brainard.  Conversation 
on  tlie  subject  of  food  to-day.     F'.verybody  here  thinks  himself  a  cook. 

February  29. — Barometer,  30.01  [762.24' ];  thermometer, —31  [— 35.o°C.|.     Breakfast — t^offee,  bread, 

and  butter.  Supper — stew  of  blubber,  roast  beef,  lime-juice  pemmican,  and  bread;  3  ounces  of  bread  in 
tlie  stew  and  two  dog-biscuit  in  the  plates.  These  are  the  last  dog-bis?:uit.  Weather  calm  and  clear,  though 
ha/y  in  the  straits.  It  looks  very  much  as  if  the  straits  were  now  bridged,  but  it  is  impossible  to  make  out 
the  (ireenland  shore  as  yet.  The  small  sledge  was  brought  in  to-day  and  lashed.  F'.lison  is  doing  well. 
The  ends  of  the  bones  of  the  legs  will  have  to  be  cut  off.  The  canned  stuff  and  many  things  are  now  giving 
out.  i)ur  rations  are  getting  near  the  end  of  the  string.  Was  out  to-day  for  a  walk.  Put  on  a  pair  of 
.soldier  pants  instead  of  mole-skin.  We  burn  about  four  barrel-staves  to  each  day.  Talk  all  about  food, 
&c.,  to-day.  We  are  to  have  another  grouj)  taken  on  returning  to  Washington,  to  be  taken  on  Sunday,  and 
we  are  to  have  a  lunch  of  beans  and  brown  bread  at  tlie  photograpliii;  gallery — Rice's. 

I^farch  I,  Sa/itrtfdY. — Barometer,  29.92  [759.95' |;  thermometer, —29.5  [  — 34.2°  C.].  The  thermom- 
eter has  ranged  from  —35  [  —37.2"  C]  to  —  28  [  — 33.3°  C]  during  tiie  day.  Weather,  with  more  or  less  wind 
from  the  west;  hazy  over  the  straits.  Breakfast  tiiis  morning — ox-tail  soup,  l)read,  and  tea.  Supper — 
English  bacon,  bread,  and  tea.  I  have  not  been  out  to-day  for  exercise  on  account  of  the  wind,  but  was  up 
for  three-quarters  of  an  liour  in  the  alley-way.  Doctor  Pavy  reported  to  Lieutenant  Greely  this  morning 
that  I  had  resumed  the  use  of  tobacco.  This  is  entirely  false.  Dr.  Pavy  came  over  and  examined  my 
mouth  before  doing  so.  I  gave  up  my  tobacco  at  Lieutenant  Greely 's  reciuest,  one  piece  to  the  latter  and 
tiie  other  to  Frederik,  F^skimo. 

March  2. — Barometer,  29.69  [754.11"""];  thermometer,  —24  [—31.1°  C.J.  Breakfast — fine  "  son-ofa- 
gun,"  with  a  good  deal  of  blubber  in  it;  very  filling;  we  have  raisins  for  one  more;  coffee.  Supper  will 
consist  of  stew  of  three  and  a  half  ounces  dog  pemmican  and  one  ounce  of  lime-juice  pemmican.  1  saved 
a  can  of  my  "  son-of-a-gun  "  and  ate  it  at  noon.  Suffered  with  cold  feet  last  night.  To-day  one  of  my  feet 
is  extremely  painful — all  puffed  up  and  very  sensitive  to  the  touch.  It  has  been  blowing  hard  all  day  from 
the  west.  It  is  a  matter  of  doubt  how  much  this  last  storm  has  broken  up  the  ice  in  the  straits.  We  are 
all  very  resigned,  however,  and  take  things  ipiietly.  Our  supplies  are  gradually  decreasing.  Last  of  the 
lemons  issued  to  ■\xy  and  the  last  of  the  milk,  i.\:c.  Talk  during  the  day  on  miscellaneous  subjects,  and 
not  altogether  on  the  subject  of  food,  as  usual. 


§  N' 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


429 


iikI 


.^fivrh  ^, — Barometer,  29.79  [756.65"""];  tliermoineter,  — 26  [— 32.2°  C.J.  Breakfast — l)rcacl,  butter, 
and  cijfTce.  Supper — English  bacon,  bread,  and  tea.  It  blew  hard  last  night  and  has  blown  more  or  less 
during  the  d.ay  until  near  the  present  hour.  Open  water  is  reported  as  seen  from  the  hill  towards  Sabine. 
I  think  it  .piite  probable  that  it  is  all  open  between  here  and  Littleton  Island.  I  was  over  in  Lieutenant 
Oreely's  bag  for  some  time  this  morning.  Lieutenant  Oreely  announced  this  morning  that  we  could  con- 
tinue on  present  rations  to  the  i6th  instant,  and  up  to  that  date  still  have  enough  to  cross  with.  That  we 
were  then,  however,  to  make  up  our  minds  to  getting  rations  here.  We  have  enough  rations  to  carry  us  to 
the  first  week  in  April.  Lieutenant  Clreely  proposes  to  send  a  i)arty  uji  to  Alexandra  I  larbor  towanls  the  end 
of  the  month  to  hunt,  and  also  some  parties  in  the  vicinity  of  Sabine.  I  shall  be  glad  when  the  shut-down 
comes,  bring  us  what  it  may.  I  am  getting  stronger  rapidly,  I  think.  I  have  not  been  out  to-day  on  account 
of  the  wind.  Our  last  cloudberries  go  next  Friday.  Three  more  issues  of  lime-juice.  Many  other  things 
are  running  out;  our  vegetable  stews  will  soon  be  gone. 

March  \. — Barometer,  30.09  [764.27"'"'];  thermometer,  —22  [— 30.0°  C.].  Breakfast — fine  stew  of 
corn,  blubber,  potatoes,  hard  bread,  &c.  Supper — stew  of  pemmican  and  roast  i)eef,  mostly  the  latter.  The 
bread  is  to  be  reduced  to  fifty-six  ounces,  a  reduction  of  about  an  ounce.  Other  small  reductions  in  our 
rations  will  be  made.  Our  canned  stuff  will  soon  all  be  gone.  Blowing  and  snowing  to-day,  and  signs  of 
open  water  seen  by  Brainard  indistinctly.  It  is  cold  and  uncomfortable  inside  here,  and  a  great  deal  of  frost 
comes  constantly.  Conversation  on  the  subject  of  food  all  the  time,  morning,  no(jn,  and  night.  Thank 
Goil!  the  day  is  fast  approaching  when  we  shall  see  the  end  of  all  this.  The  wood  still  holds  out  very  well. 
It  is  very  fortunate,  as  we  are  enabled  to  have  our  food  mostly  heated. 

March  5. — Barometer  29.95  [760.72"""];  thermometer,  —23  [ — 30.6°  C.].  Blowing  very  hard  ])retty 
much  all  during  the  night  and  during  the  day  to-ilay,  with  drifting  snow;  very  disagreeable,  lireakfast  this 
morning — fine  stew  of  corn,  &c.  Supjier  to-night — stew  of  2  ounces  bacon,  2  J<$  lime-jui(  e  iienunican,  and  1  ]^ 
of  roast  beef;  4  ounces  in  all.  The  bacon  is  rancid,  but  we  enjoyed  the  tasie;  hsst  night  it  made  Biederbick 
sick  at  the  stomach,  and  he  threw  up  his  sujiper.  The  wood  holds  out  well.  Last  issue  of  butter,  soup,  and 
extract  of  meat  are  made.  The  end  of  this  month  will  be  very  critical.  I  am  glad  of  it,  whatever  the  end  is  to 
be.  1  have  no  desire  to  postpone  the  end,  if  that  end  is  a  death  by  starvation.  Thermometer  inside  the  house 
on  rising  this  morning  was  +19  [ — 7.2°  C.].  It  has  been  very  cold  and  (hilly  inside  here  to-day,  owing  to 
the  high  wind  outside. 

March  6, — Barometer,  29.56  [750.81"""];  thermometer,  —22  |  —  30.0°  C.].  Blowing  and  windy  through 
last  night ;  it  continued  until  about  noon,  when  it  gradually  became  calm.  .\  great  deal  of  wind  [water]  reported 
in  the  straits  by  those  on  the  hill,  as  shown  by  a  heavy  line  of  dark  clouds  running  north  and  south,  marking 
the  open  water.  There  is  no  doubt  tiiat  the  straits  are  oi)en,  though  how  far  tiiis  open  water  is  from  Sabine, 
or  just  how  wide  it  is,  is  difiicult  to  say.  Brainanl  and  Rice  usually  g(i  out  on  the  hill  every  day  aiul  take  a 
survey  of  the  scene.  I  have  not  been  out  for  some  days,  but  get  up  and  stump  around  inside  lie-  twii  e  a 
day.  I  am  gradually  recovering  my  strength,  but  feel  de|)ressed  and  in  low  spirits,  usually  iluring  the  after- 
noon— a  feeling  I  caniiot  shake  off.  I  suppose  short  rations  and  my  convalescing  condition  have  something 
to  do  with  it.  Some  work  done  to-day  on  the  sledge  and  on  the  foot-gear,  to  prep;  for  our  dcjiarture.  I 
do  not  think  we  shall  have  an  opportunity  of  crossing,  and  I  think  the  party  are  losing  confidence.  ( )ur 
hopes  nui-'l  depend  upon  being  able  to  get  game  heie.  Conversation  (hiring  the  day  on  the  subje(  t  of  food; 
this  is  our  constant  theme.  We  have  re;uling  every  night,  anil  occasionally  something  out  oi"  a  book  t)f 
statistics. 

Menuirandum :  Stuffed  eggs  a  hi  Paris.  "  "* 

Last  of  our  soup  (ox-tail)  eaten  this  morning  for  breakfast.  Supper  to-night — bacon  stew ;  1  ounces  bacon, 
\)/,  of  roast  beef,  and  y^  ounce  pemmican,  with  a  few  pieces  of  hard  bread  and  a  little  blubber.  ( )ur  blul)l)er 
is  almost  gone;  b.acon  rancid,  and  we  eat  the  tallow  in  wiiich  it  ((jmes.  lioih  are  very  strong  and  spoiled, 
but  we  eat  them  with  relish.  How  often  my  thoughts  waniler  homeward  to  the  dear  ones  there  and  the  old 
family  scenes.     Oh,  Cod!  how  many  years  of  my  life  I  would  give  to  be  there. 

March  7. — Barometer,  29.59  [751.57"""!;  thermometer,  — 16  (—26.7"  C.].  Breakfast — 4)j  ounces 
bread,  and  our  la.st  chocolate.  The  bread  consisted  of  two  whole  crackers,  two  halves,  and  some  pici  es  aljout 
ecjual  to  three-ciuarters  of  another  cracker.  At  Fort  Conger,  16  or  17  cr.ackers  were  considered  lo  ei|ual  a 
pound;  here  the  bread  seems  to  be  very  heavy.  !■  upper — stew  of  bacon,  |)emmican,  and  roast  beef.  Our 
last  cloudberries  issued  to-day.  Day  clear  and  calm;  1  went  out  this  morning  on  the  lake.  Long  went  out 
hunting  to-day,  and  continued  on  down  to  Brevoort  Island;  he  did  ncjt  get  back  until  after  Biederbick  had 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

commenced  to  cook  dinner  in  his  place.  He  saw  two  old  bear  tracks,  also  fox  tracks.  Rice  was  on  the  hill 
and  saw  two  ptarmigan;  sent  for  the  gun,  but  the  birds  flew  away.  The  sun  was  seen  for  the  first  time  this 
morning.  The  water  in  the  straits  is  re|)orted  somewhat  different — closing  in  a  litde,  but  accounts  are  con- 
flicting. Clreenland  shore  is  invisible.  Heavy  water-clouds  hang  over  the  middle  of  the  .straits,  running  north 
and  south.  Kislingbury  went  out  to  the  ice-berg,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  shore;  saw  some  old 
bear  tracks.  Found  a  heavy  current  under  the  ice,  and  the  ice  very  thin  in  places;  broke  through,  but  <liil 
not  get  wet.  Our  chances  look  rather  poor  at  present,  but  with  the  increase  of  sunlight  we  ought  to  get 
seals. 

J/rt/-£'/<  8.— Baromvter,  29.48  [748.78"""];  thermometer,  +3  [— 16.1°  C]  after  breakfast.  Breakfast — 
rice  soup  (the  last  of  the  rife),  tea,  and  4^  ounces  hard  bread.  Supper — bacon,  4  ounces,  4^  ounces  of 
bread,  and  tea.  It  blew  with  great  violence  last  night,  and  a  fierce  storm  has  been  raging  all  day,  blowing, 
snowing,  and  drifting.  No  one  but  Linn  and  the  Eskimo  [Jens],  who  went  for  ice,  have  been  out  of  doors. 
Conversation  pretty  lively  to-day.  Ralston  has  a  carbuncle  on  his  finger,  but  it  is  getting  better.  Henry  has  a 
sore  foot,  (iardiner  is  nearly  well,  but  still  on  the  convalescent  list.  These,  with  Elison  and  myself,  are  the 
only  ones  sick  or  unwell.  I  have  been  in  jiretty  good  spirits  to-day.  Generally  feel  pretty  low  down  in  the 
morning,  after  breakfast.  Last  night  I  had  a  lew  unpleasant  words  with  Lieutenant  (Ireely  about  proposal  to 
change  the  stews.     Both  of  us  were  rather  fi.\ed.     This  constant  hunger  is  very  i)roductive  of  ill-temper. 

March  9. — Barometer,  29.74  [7S5-38"""J;  thermometer,  —7  [—21.7°  C.].  Breakfast — "son-of-a-gun" 
without  milk  or  raisins,  but  ijuite  filling  notwith.standing,  with  30  ounces  of  Lard,  some  blubber,  and  a  thin  jthit 
of  chocolate.  Suij[)er  to-night  is  pemmican  stew  of  5  ounces,  which  promis'.'S  to  be  very  good.  The  issue  for 
lard  for  Monday,  Wednesday,  antl  Friday  next  is  to  be  %  of  an  ounce  for  each  day.  This  it  has  been  deciiled 
to  carry  over  for  the  ".son-of-a-gun"  next  Sunday.     Conversation  all  day  about  food. 

March  10. — Barometer,  29.94  [760.46"""] ;  thermometer,  —8.5  [—22.5°  C.].  Windy  last  night  and  during 
the  afternoon,  but  after  that  it  cleared  off  and  now  bids  fair  to  be  fine  weather.  Breakfast — chocolate  anil 
bread.  Supper — bacon  and  bread  and  tea.  Long  leaves  to-morrow  for  Alexandra  Harbor  with  Ivikimo 
Erederik,  to  hunt  for  game.  He  takes  six  days'  rations,  at  the  rate  of  half  pound  of  meat  (pemmican  and 
bacon)  10  ounces  of  bread  and  tea,  also  a  pint  of  rum.  Rice  and  Brainard  went  out  to-day  and  report  water 
in  the  straits  near  Sabine.  Ai>parently  (juite  a  narrow  channel  with  ice  in  it.  (Ireenlantl  shore  (juite  distinct. 
We  need  now  very  cold  weather  to  have  any  chance  of  the  straits  freezing  over.  We  have  pretty  much  con- 
cluded that  the  chances  of  the  .straits  freezing  over  are  very  poor.  Bacon  now  on  three  afternoons  every  week, 
cokl.  Our  fuel  must  be  economized.  (Jur  rations  will  last  about  four  weeks  longer.  After  that  we  must  git 
game  or  tuni  up  our  toes. 

March  11. — Barometer,  29.99  [7^i-73"""];  thermoineter,  —15.5  [—26.4"  C.].  Breakfast — corn  stew 
(our  last  corn),  5  ounces  bread,  and  tea.  Supi)er — stew  of  4  ounces  of  meat,  2  of  b.icon,  i^  roast  beef,  ^3 
ounce  ])emmican,  2^  ounces  bread  (i^^  in  plate  and  i  on  the  stew);  also  tea.  Day  very  fine,  calm  and  clear. 
Long  and  Frederik,  Eskimo,  got  off  this  morning  before  9  o'clock.  Rice  and  l-lUis  started  about  8  a.  m.  and 
l)ulled  the  small  sledge  for  them  as  far  as  Cocked  Hat  Island.  'I'he  sun  was  seen  to-day  just  over  the  hill.  I 
was  out  and  went  on  the  hill,  the  farthest  I  have  been  since  November  last;  did  not  see  the  sun.  The  (Jreen- 
land  shore  is  visible  to-day,  and  the  land  in  other  directions  very  clear.  Ajjpe.arances  indicate  that  the  .straits 
will  be  frozen  over  if  this  calm  weather  contiinies  with  cold  temperature.  The  spirits  of  the  party  are  high. 
We  have  reading  every  night  still.     Many  books  have  been  read  through. 

March  12. — Barometer,  29.95  [yfJc.?^ j;  thermometer,  —22  [—30.0^  C.|.     Breakfast — ^y,  ounces  of 

hard  bread  and  a  pint  of  tea.  Supper^4  ounces  bacon,  i^  of  roast  beef,  and  ^  ounce  lime-juice  jjemmiian, 
maile  into  a  stew.  We  have  with  this  2^'^  ounces  of  hard  bread,  i^  in  the  plates  and  the  other  ounce  in  the 
stew.  I  took  a  walk  to  the  hill  to-day  after  breakfiist,  and  was  up  again  in  the  alley-way  just  before  dinner. 
Weather  ([uite  calm  about  here,  with  only  a  slight  air  stirring  from  the  west.  Line  of  white  clouds  in  the 
.straits.  Brainard  walked  down  to  Cape  Sabine.  Found  a  storm  raging  in  the  straits,  and  discovered  a  good 
deal  of  open  water.  No  game  seen  and  no  signs  excei>t  tracks  of  a  fox.  Lieutenant  Creely  came  over  this 
morning  and  got  into  Biederbick's  bag.  Frederick  was  engaged  in  impairing  that  of  his.  Talk  to-day  on  the 
subject  of  food,  bills  of  fare,  dishes,  i!v:c.  (lermany  and  New  Kngland  we  hear  a  good  deal  of  in  this  respect, 
through  Hiederbick  and  Lieutenant  Cireely  respe(~tively.  (lood  deal  of  drip  inside  here  of  late,  and  also  a  great 
deal  ot  smoke,  Ti\c  two  together  add  greatly  to  the  discomfort  about  meal  times.  I  am  getting  stronger 
slowly. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


431 


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March  13. — Barometer,  30.01  [762.04"""];  thermometer,  —16  |— 26.7°  C.].  Breakfast — stew  of  i 
ounce  bacon  per  man,  with  a  little  e.xtract  meat  and  the  la.st  of  the  hluhher,  ami  2  oiiiuxs  hard  bread  in  it. 
Supper — 4  ounces  bacon  and  5  of  hard  bread.  All  of  our  cotTee  and  <:iio< olale  are  now  t;""i-'.  ^I'ld  canned 
vegetables.  We  are  reduced  pretty  much  to  peiuinic;an,  bacon,  bread,  and  tea.  The  breakfast  stew  had  one- 
third  tea-spoonful  of  potatoes  per  man,  which  is  the  last  of  the  potatoes.  Weatiier  to-day  calm  and  clear.  Sun 
sliining  brightly.  It  came  out  over  the  hill  and  was  seen  by  those  out  at  noon.  Long  and  I'"rederik, 
Eskimo,  returned  unexpectedly  about  7.15  p.  in.  Long  reported  that  they  went  to  .\lexandra  Harbor,  but 
were  unable  to  get  in  the  sleeping-bag,  and  had  not  had  any  sleep  since  leaving  on  Tuesday  last.  The  bag 
was  found  frozen  hard.  They  were  able  to  get  their  feet  down  up  above  the  knees,  but  that  was  all.  They 
took  little  naps  standing,  one  at  a  time.  Saw  no  game  whatever,  and  no  tracks  except  those  of  one  fox. 
Buchanan  Strait  seemed  to  Long  to  be  clo.sed  up  to  the  west  by  high  mountainous  land,  but  he  could  not  be 
sure.  The  distance  accomplished  and  the  trij)  was  most  remarkable.  Ptarmigan  tracks  seen  near  the  house 
to-day. 

March  14. — Barometer,  29.92  [759.95"""];  thermometer,  —16  [—.6.7°  C.J.  Mreakfast — pint  of  tea 
and  4^  ounces  of  hard  bread.  Supper — stew  of  5  ounces  ICnglisli  pemmican,  2)4  ounces  of  hard  bread 
(in  plate),  and  pint  of  tea.  Brainard  went  out  to-day  and  shot  three  ptarmigan  near  the  house.  Their 
tracks  were  first  seen  some  two  or  three  days  ago.  This  looks  like  a  good  omen,  and  goes  a  little  way  as 
an  offset  to  the  damper  made  by  Long's  want  of  success.  I  saw  the  sun  to-day  for  the  first  time — the  first 
time  since  October  23  last.  Some  of  the  others  have  seen  it  a  few  'i^s  ago.  Leads  of  open  water  in  the 
straits  are  reported  freezing  up,  but  the  grinding  of  ice  in  tlie  sti  :' .  is  heard  nevertheless.  Lieutenant 
Greely  announced  to-day  that  we  could  live  here  for  four  weeks  incjre  on  substantially  our  present  rations. 
This  of  course  would  leave  nothing  for  crossing.     Our  only  hope  lies  in  getting  seal. 

March  15. — Barometer,  30.10  [764.53"""];  thermometer,  —22.5  [—30.3°  C.].  Breakfast — stew  of  one 
ounce  bacon  and  2^  hard  bread,  with  pint  of  tea.  Sufiper  to-night — 6^  ounces  bread  and  4  ounces  roast 
beef.  Our  hard  bread  is  to  be  cut  down  from  to-day  to  50  ounces  per  man  per  week.  Kislingbury  was 
around  to-day  by  a  pool  of  open  water  some  three  miles  from  shore,  and  reports  fresh  bear  tracks  about 
three  miles  from  shore.  He  also  saw  five  dovekies.  Reports  the  condition  of  the  straits  is  encouraging. 
Appear.ances  would  indicate  that  a  few  days  of  cold  calm  weather  will  put  them  so  that  we  can  cross.  The 
weather  to-day  has  been  calm  and  bright,  very  pleasant  for  some  time  past.  Rice  went  over  to  Rosse  Bay 
yesterday  and  returned  by  way  of  Cape  Sabine.  He  found  a  practicable  route  over  to  Rosse  Bay ;  can  go 
over  there  in  about  the  same  time  it  takes  to  reach  Long's  Point.  I  went  out  to-day,  but  did  not  feel  so 
strong  as  yesterday.  My  foot  has  been  hurting  me  a  good  deal  to-day.  I  feel  in  the  morning  and  after- 
noon freiiuently  a  dreadful  depression  which  I  cannot  shake  off. 

March  16. — Barometer, ;  thermometer,  —28  [—33.3°  C],  at  i  o'clock.     Breakfast  this  morning — 

fine  "  son-of-a  gun,"  6  ounces  of  bread,  and  4  ounces  lard  per  man,  very  rich  and  oily.  Supper — stew  of 
5  ounces  of  meat,  3  ounces  of  pemmican,  2  of  ptarmigan,  and  2^  of  bread  per  man.  These  three  ptar- 
migan shot  by  Brainard  weighed  3^  pounds  dressed — that  is,  with  the  entrails,  bones,  and  feathers  excepted, 
though  we  ate  everything.  Some  of  the  entrails  were  not  entirely  squeezed.  Long  and  Frcderik  [Chris- 
tiansen] went  out  to-day  to  the  berg  where  there  is  an  open-water  pool,  and  Long  shot  four  dovekies  with 
the  shot-gun.  They  are  nice  food.  Their  plumage  is  white,  mostly  white.  They  saw  a  seal,  and  Fred- 
erik  [Christiansen]  shot  at  him,  but  missed  the  animal.  This  success  raises  the  spirits  of  the  party  wonder- 
fully, and  tonight  we  are  feeling  very  sound  again.  Long's  want  of  success  at  Alexandra  Harbor  rather 
threw  a  damper  on  us.  I  was  not  out  to-day,  but  only  up  in  the  alley-way  to  stretch  my  legs.  It  now  drips 
very  badly  at  every  meal.  The  temperature  inside  here  just  before  breakfast  time,  -f  28  or  +29  [ — 2.2  or 
—  1.7°  C.].    The  kayak  was  taken  out  to-day  and  the  birds  secured  by  means  of  it. 

March  17. — Barometer,  30.10  [764.53"""];  thermometer,  —22  [  — 30.0°  C.].  Breakdist — 4j^  ounces 
hard  bread  with  tea.  Supper — 5  ounces  of  bacon,  2^^  of  bread,  with  the  tea;  7  ounces  of  bread  ilaily  now. 
All  our  coffee  and  chocolate  is  gone  and  all  the  canned  stuff.  Nothing  now  remains  but  pemmican,  bacon, 
and  roast  beef.  Brainard  found  a  large  box  containing  10  ounces  of  English  chocolate.  Kislingbury 
went  with  Jans  [Jens]  out  to  the  water-pool  to-day  and  saw  a  seal,  but  got  nothing.  Kayak  taken  along 
and  carried  back  again.  The  four  dovekies  gotten  yesterday  weigh  just  one  pound  apiece.  This  morning 
as  Jans  [JensJ  was  about  starting  out,  he  saw  and  shot  a  ptarmigan  near  the  house — quite  a  fat  bird  and 
weighs  I  ^  pounds.  Sun  shining  brightly  to-day.  Wind  in  tlie  straits,  but  nothing  to  amount  to  anything 
here  until  this  evening,  when  it  blows  from  the  northwest  at  about  five  miles  [about  2"'  per  second].     I  was 


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432 


THE  LADY  FRAXKLIJf  BAY  KX1M:IHTI()N'. 


out  to-day  for  a  walk  oi\  the  lake  and  felt  much  stronger.  Was  up  ia  the  alley-way  for  between  two  and 
three  hours.  'I'he  spirits  of  the  party  are  very  good.  All  seem  confident  of  being  able  to  get  seal  meat,  &c., 
and  thus  support  life.  We  have  about  given  up  hope  of  the  straits  closing  so  as  to  allow  us  to  cross.  The 
conversation  is  chiefly  about  food.  Reading  every  night.  Hayes'  boat  journey  and  the  Challenger  Expe- 
dition have  been  read  for  some  time.     Hayes  is  voted  a  fraud. 

Memorandum:  Anne  riUi-r,     Citron  jjreserve. 

March  i8. — Barometer,  29.75  [755.64' ];  thermometer, —13  [  — ^5.0°  C.].     Overcast  and  somewhat 

cloudy.  Storm  in  the  straits  from  the  southwest.  Breakfast — 5  ounces  of  hard  bread  and  a  pint  of  tea. 
Supper — stew  of  4  ounces  of  meat,  ij<$  ounces  bacon,  i^/^  of  roast  beef,  )4  of  lime-juice  jjemmican,  and  y^ 
ptarmigan.  Talk  all  the  day  on  the  subject  of  food.  There  has  been  a  constant  stream  of  conversation  ever 
since  breakfast.  I  saved  about  half  of  my  bread  this  morning  to  sujjplement  tlie  stew  to-night.  This  stew 
has  2  ounces  of  bread  in  it;  none  issued  in  the  plate.  Did  not  go  out  of  doors  to-day.  No  one  went 
hunting.  The  raven  came  around  to-day,  but  was  loo  wary  to  be  shot.  The  straits  all  broken  up;  no 
chance,  in  my  mind,  of  our  crossing.  Frying  in  lard,  compared  with  frying  in  bacon,  was  heavily  argued 
this  morning. 

March  lej. —  Harometer,  29.95  [7''0.72' |;  thermometer,  —10  [  — 23.3"(^.].     lireakfast — 5  ounces  of 

hard  bread  and  a  pint  of  tea.  Of  tiie  haril  bread,  I  saved  most  for  supper.  Supper — a  stew  of  4  ounces  of 
meat,  2  of  iiemmican,  ijj  bacon,  and  j^  ounce  of  dovekie.  It  was  stormy  and  windy  lust  night.  Con- 
tinued most  all  day  with  a  good  deal  of  drift.  No  one  went  out  but  the  ice  men,  &c.  A\'ind  from  the 
southwest.  Straits  all  broken  u[).  I  took  my  e.xercise  in  the  alley-way.  I  have  felt  in  better  spirits  to-day 
than  usual.  The  talk  now  is  incessantly  .about  food,  dishes,  and  eatables.  Thermometer  this  morning,  just 
before  breakfast,  inside  the  house,  +25  [  —  3.9°  C.].  Our  wood  \vill  be  gone  to-morrow  or  the  next  day, 
and  we  shall  have  then  to  burn  stearine,  the  Utile  there  is,  followed  by  alcohol. 

.\[a>xh  20. — Barometer,  30.15  [;o5.8o"""J;  thermometer,  — 15  [ — zd.v  C.].  More  or  le.ss  win<l 
to-day.  Cold  and  chilly  in  the  house.  It  is  more  uncomfortable  inside  here  when  the  wind  blows,  though 
witii  a  comparatively  high  temperature,  than  when  the  tem[)erature  is  low  and  calm.  Long  went  out  to  the 
water-iiool,  but  saw  nothing  but  two  dovekies — got  nothing.  Rice  went  out  to  the  P  [Beebe]  cache  with  a 
net,  and  came  back  at  supper  time  with  a  few  ounces  of  shiim[)s.  We  hope  to  be  able  to  get  shrimps 
enough  to  help  our  rations.  Breakfast  this  mornmg~r-our  last  morning  stew.  It  consisted  of  i  ounce  of 
bacon,  2j^  of  bread,  and  tiie  last  of  the  i)()tatoes  and  thi;  extract  of  beef.  Supper  to-night — 4  ounces  of 
bacon  and  4^  bread.  Tiie  raven  was  seen  to-day  by  Rice.  Henry  saw  flying  overhead  what  he  thought 
was  an  owl  or  falcon.  Our  fuel  gives  out  to-morrow,  all  exceiit  tlie  whale-boat.  We  shall  then  commence 
cooking  with  the  alcohol.     Schneider  has  made  222  stearine  candles  since  February  16. 

March  21.— Barometer,  30.08  [764.02"""];  thermometer,  —19  [—28.3°  C.].  Breakfast — \\-2,  ounces 
of  bread  with  a  cup  of  tea.  Supper — fine  stew  or  soup  of  \\^  ounces  of  American  pemmican,  v.ith  3  of 
bread  in  it ;  none  in  the  jjlates  nowadays  in  the  evening,  except  on  bacon  nights.  It  has  been  blowing 
and  drifting  all  day,  and  the  sun  overcast  most  of  the  time;  the  air  filled  with  a  kind  of  haze.  No  one 
has  been  farther  than  just  outside  the  door.  Brainard  has  been  occupied  in  making  a  net  to  catch  shrimps; 
it  is  baited  with  part  of  a  dovekie.  Rice  got  a  few  ounces  yesterday,  but  they  are  very  small,  and  it  will  take 
a  good  many  to  go  any  ways  as  food.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  has  an  inflamed  finger,  probably  a  felon 
coming  on.  Ralston's  finger  is  improving  slowly,  I  believe.  The  time  draws  near  when  our  group  comes 
to  an  entl.  We  look  on  it  with  e(iuaniinity,  and  the  spirits  of  tlie  I'arty,  with  this  prospect  of  a  miserable 
death,  is  certainly  wonderful.  I  am  gkid  as  each  ilay  draws  to  an  end.  It  puts  us  nearer  the  end  of  this 
life — whatever  that  end  is  to  be.  How  often  I  think  of  those  at  home,  and  of  what  they  are  doing.  Oh, 
Cod!  that  I  could  be  with  them  for  a  few  hours  only.  Would  that  it  were  possible  to  write  down  all  my 
thoughts  here  at  length  for  the  benefit  of  those  at  home,  in  case  of  the  worst.  The  fuel,  all  except  the 
boat,  is  about  gone — ends  with  to-morrow.  We  will  then  commence  on  alcohol.  "  Double-barrel "  stew 
to-night — that  is,  two  pots  which  nearly  fill  the  plates,  and  comes  somewhere  towards  giving  one  enough  to 
eat.  Fridays  and  Sundays  we  have  two  pots,  and  on  other  stew  nights  only  one.  Talk  all  the  time  on  the 
subject  of  food.     It  forms  almost  thi  whole  subject  of  conversation. 

JAm// 22.— Barometer,  29.90  [759.45];  thermometer,  3.5  [  —  19.7°  C.].  Breakfast — \)2  ounces  hard 
bread  with  tea ;  supper — 5  ounces  bacon,  partly  tallow,  and  2)/^  ounces  hard  bread.  Saved  over  nearly 
half  my  hard  bread  from  morning  to-night.  I  find  these  cold  meals  of  hard  bread  and  bacon  the  most 
satisfactory  of  the  week — even  more  so  than  the  Sunday  evening  stew.     Quite  a  number  of  the  j)arty  have 


i  i  i 


IIU 


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THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


433 


the  same  experience.  I  sleep  better  and  feel  warmer.  Waked  u[)  this  morning  at  2^  a.  m.,  and  slept  very 
little  afterward.  After  a  supper  of  bacon,  frequently  sleep  through  till  after  5  o'clock,  even  when  I  dropped 
asleep  the  night  before  very  early.  Long  went  out  hunting  on  the  ice  to-day  with  Jans  [Jens],  but  saw 
nothing,  and  got  nothing.  He  went  out  on  the  ice  two  or  three  miles  from  h.nd.  Reports  seeing  noth- 
ing but  sludge  ice  and  young  ice  extending  as  far  as  he  could  see.  Saw  no  open  water  except  at  the  berg. 
Appearances  would  indicate  a  jam  in  the  straits.  Rice  went  down  to-day  to  the  creek  near  the  P  [Beebe] 
cache,  and  got  some  half-dozen  ounces  of  shrimps.  These  shrimps  are  very  small.  He  got  back  just  pfler 
supper.  Our  talk  is  constantly  about  food,  &c.  One  can  fix  his  mind  on  nothing  else.  P'rederik,  Eskimo, 
and  Jans  [Jens]  have  swelled  faces.  I  was  out  to-day  on  the  lake.  Some  wind  to-day,  and  the  sky  over- 
cast And  snowing  at  times. 

Miinli  23. — Barometer,  30.00  [761.99"""];  thermometer,  —10  [—12.2°  C.J.  Breakfast — 4^4  ounces 
hard  bread  and  tea.  Supper — 'ine  stew  of  5^  ounces  meat  with  3  ounces  bread  in  it.  The  dovekie 
supplied  about  i  ounce  per  man  and  pemmican  in  the  rest.  I  brought  over  from  breakfast  a  little  hard  bread, 
as  usual.  This  allowance  of  bread  is  a  most  insignificant  amount.  The  hard  bread  weighs  he.ivy,  and  one 
cracker  with  a  few  pieces  seem  to  make  up  the  \]^  ounces.  Lieutenant  Greely  announced  this  morning 
that  we  would  run  along  on  the  present  ration  until  April  6,  and  then  by  cutting  down  to  3  ounces  of 
meat  per  day,  without  bread,  we  could  exist,  until  about  May  i.  This  is  more  encouraging.  Our  present 
ration  is  so  small,  however,  that  it  remains  to  be  seen  what  the  effect  of  any  further  reduction  will  be.  We 
are  hungry  all  the  time.  It  is  impossible  to  fix  one's  thoughts  for  any  length  of  time  on  anything  but  food. 
We  have  various  seal  skin  articles  of  clothing,  foot  gear,  some  stearine,  &c.,  which  we  now  talk  of  eating. 
Long  and  Frederik  (Eskimo)  went  hunting  to-day  out  beyond  the  berg.  Saw  nothing  but  one  dovekie 
and  a  bear  track  about  two  days  old.  Also  a  fox  track.  Long  reports  the  ice  moved  out.  Open  water  out 
beyond  Sabine.  Brainard  went  down  to  Rosse  Bay,  but  saw  nothing  but  tracks  of  a  fox  and  a  ptarmigan. 
Reports  open  water  stretched  from  Cape  Isabella  towards  the  north.  No  open  water  around  the  bergs  in 
Rosse  Bay.  Traveling  on  the  ice  of  the  bay  very  good.  Brainard  started  soon  after  breakfast  and  got 
back  to  dinner.  Rice  went  down  to  the  P  [BeebeJ  cache  after  shrimps  this  morning,  and  again  just  before 
dinner.  He  returned  just  after  dinner  quite  successful.  He  got  about  three  pints — that  is,  an  English  meat- 
can — full  of  shrimps.  These  shrimps  are  very  small — about  one-sixth  of  the  size  of  the  ordinary  canned 
shrimps.  Bender  and  Schneider  made  a  dip-net  for  him  to-day,  and  also  some  other  implements  to  catch 
them.  Rice  went  down  again  after  dinner  to  try  to  catch  some  more.  We  resumed  cooking  by  alcohol  to-day 
at  dinner;  it  takes  longer  than  by  wood.  All  the  wood  is  now  gone  except  the  boat  itself,  &c.  Bender 
made  a  fish-hook  to-day,  and  Connell  is  going  to  try  fishing  to-morrow.  The  temperature  inside  here,  just 
before  breakfast  this  morning,  was  +29  [— i.7°C.j.  Yesterday  morning  it  was  -f- 25  to-|-26[ — 3.9  to 
—  3.3°  C.j  the  morning  before. 

March  24. — Barometer,  29.97  [761.22™"'];  thermometer,  —16  to  —22  [—26.7  to  —30.0°  C.].  Slept 
well  last  night,  not  waking  up  until  just  before  5  o'clock.  Alcohol  lamps  lighted  at  6  o'clock.  It  was  7.30 
when  Biederbick's  tea  boiled,  and  he  had  issued  the  first  cupful  when  he  suddenly  fainted.  He  was  carried 
to  his  sleeping-bag.  Then  Israel  fainted,  and  Long  and  several  others.  We  all  began  to  feel  the  effects 
of  the  alcohol  fumes  in  the  close  house.  Those  able  to,  got  out  in  the  alley-way,  and  the  rest  were  helped 
out.  Jewell,  Connell,  Brainard,  &c.,  fainted  as  soon  as  they  reached  the  cold  air  outside.  I  got  out 
to  the  end  of  the  alley-way  to  help  Jewell,  when  I  found  myself  suddenly  affected.  I  did  not  lose 
consciousness,  but  became  like  one  paralyzed.  We  gradually  came  back  inside  the  house.  Most,  if  not  all, 
of  the  party  were  given  a  mouthful  of  tea,  and  a  drink  of  rum  was  isued  all  around.  Biederbick  and  Israel 
came  near  death's  door,  the  doctor  says.  None  of  the  oarty  that  were  not  more  or  less  affected.  Just 
before  dinner  time  it  was  discovered  that  some  one  had  taken  advantage  of  tiie  situation  this  morning  to 
steal  about  half  a  pound  of  the  bacon  of  Biederbick's  mess,  and  deep  are  the  curses  which  rained  down 
upon  this  brute.  The  allowance  of  bread  has  been  increased  slightly  this  evening.  Breakfast  consisted  of 
4^  ounces  of  bread;  and  supper,  according  to  schedule,  would  be  2^  ounces.  At  supper  this  evening  the 
two  hatches  in  the  boat  are  kept  open,  and  the  door  slightly,  so  no  trouble  is  found.  Henry  is  sick  at  the 
stomach,  but  was  affected  before  si-pper  time,  he  says.  Fine  day  to-day,  as  well  as  yesterday.  Eight  half 
gills  of  shrimps  to-day  weighed  14  ounces.  Fox  tracks  seen  around  to-day.  Rice  went  down  to  the  tide 
crack  at  3  o'clock  this  morning  and  brought  back  2  pounds  mor^  of  shrimps.  No  one  out  to-day  farther 
than  the  lake. 

H.  Mis.  393 28 


434 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


A)     i  S 


March  25. — Barometer,  30.00  1761.99"""];  thermomct'.-r,  —16.5  [  —  26.9°  l'.|.  Hreakfast  — 5  ounces  of 
hard  bread  with  tea;  saved  over  about'  2  ounces  for  supper,  as  usual.  Sup|)er — stew  consisted  of  .^  ounces  of 
.shrimps  per  man,  i^  of  rancid  tallow,  and  \'i  ounce  lime-juice,  pemmican  with  2  ounces  hard  bread,  'i'his 
stew  was  i)ronounced  excellent  by  every  one,  and  many  went  into  ecstasies  over  it,  and  thought  it  the  best 
thing  in  flavor  we  have  yet  had.  We  were  all  certainly  very  agreeably  disa|)p()inted  in  the  shrimps.  Lieu- 
tenant (Ireely  estimates  that  3  pounds  of  shrimps  are  e(iual  to  2  pounds  of  meat.  Last  night  Urainard  killed 
a  fine  fo.x  wiiich  ran  over  the  roof  of  the  house;  white  in  color,  weight  j^  pounds  dressed.  The  bre.id  last 
night  at  supper  was  incre;i.sed  about  5  ounces  for  that  meal,  in  consideration  of  the  trials  of  the  ilay.  Rice 
went  out  again  this  morning  at  3  o'clock,  down  to  the  tide-hole  and  the  iceberg,  and  set  his  shrim|>  nets.  He 
went  out  just  before  dinner  to-day,  and  returned  just  after  dinner  with  some  more  shrimps,  larger  than  the 
others.  Shrimps  brought  in,  in  all,  by  him  to  date,  about  17  ])Ound.s.  'I'he  baits  used  consist  of  seal-skin,  old 
bear-skin  (socks  of  Corporal  Salor,  &c.),  feet  of  ptarmigan,  fox-skin,  &c.  Long  and  Krederik,  Eskimo,  went 
down  to  Sabine  to-day.  Long  saw  two  seal  or  walrus  holes,  and  is  confident  of  finding  seals  or  walrus  out 
on  the  ice  near  by  before  long.  Frederik,  Kskimo,  became  exhausted  and  laid  down,  but  fortunately  Long 
saw  him  and  brought  him  in.  Schnapps  and  ammonia  brought  him  to  all  right.  After  breakfast  this 
morning  pretty  nearly  every  one  gave  some  testimony  concerning  Henry  and  the  stealing  of  tiie  bacon 
yesterday  morning.  Jans  [JensJ  testified  directly  that  he  saw  him  take  the  bacon  otT  the  shelf.  Henry 
acknowledged  that  he  was  sick  and  threw  up  bacon,  but  declared  it  was  after  the  bacon  i.ssued  to  him 
was  eaten,  and  it  was  this  bacon  he  threw  up.  Private  Frederick  testified  positively  to  the  contrary  of 
this,  and  tiie  testimony  of  a  number  of  us  was  directly  opposite  to  it.  Ii  came  out  also  that  Henry,  at  Fort 
Conger,  opened  and  made  way  with  canned  stufil".  Schneider  tcstifieil  to-day  that  it  was  Henry  who  stole 
the  milk.  Every  one  of  the  party  was  asked  his  o|)inion,  on  hearing  all  the  testimony,  and  every  one,  without 
exception,  of  the  white  men  of  the  party,  declared  his  conviction  of  Henry's  guilt.  Henry  has  not  been 
allowed  to  leave  the  hut  without  a  guard,  nor  to  leave  liis  bag  when  no  light  is  lighted.  We  are  now  using 
alcohol.  The  daylight  comes  in  through  the  holes  above  the  two  stov.es  during  the  cooking,  and  is  cheer- 
ful. To-day,  for  several  hours,  we  got  along  without  candles.  We  are  all  confident  now  of  pulling  through, 
and  the  spirits  of  the  party  are  excellent.  I  was  out  for  exercise  to-day,  and  walked  all  the  way  down  to 
the  old  hut,  the  other  side  of  the  lake.  It  has  been  a  beautiful  day,  bright  and  warm  ;  (juite  calm.  Lieu- 
tenant Kislingbury's  finger  is  doing  very  well.  Elison  is  doing  remarkably  well.  I  suiTer  a  good  deal  with 
swollen  feet,  which  are  alternately  very  cold  and  feverish,  and  painful  with  inflammation. 

Afan/i  26. — Barometer,  30.00  [7(51.99"'"'];  thermometer,  o  [—-17.8°  C.j.  Breakfast — 5  ounces  of  hard 
bread.  Supper — stew,  same  as  last  night,  1  %  ounces  of  bacon,  y^  ounce  lime-juice  pemmican  and  3  ounces 
of  shrimps.  Slept  well  last  night,  though  several  of  the  party  complained  of  sleeping  coUl.  This  stew  has 
a  very  fatty  taste.  Rice  and  Jewell  went  after  shrimps  this  morning,  at  4  a.  m.,  but  got  nothing.  The 
shrimps  do  not  seem  to  bite  at  night.  During  the  evening  it  commenced  to  storm,  and  since  it  has  been 
blowing  and  drifting  from  the  southeast  in  a  very  violent  way.  Fresh  ptarmigan  tracks  seen  by  Rice  on  his 
return  this  morning  at  breakfast  time,  and  three  or  four  went  after  the  bird  but  did  not  see  him.  Brainard 
got  caught  in  the  storm,  and  relumed  to  the  hut  with  difliculty.  It  makes  it  particularly  cold  and  uncom- 
fortable inside  the  house;  no  one  has  been  out  of  the  house  since.  This  morning  it  was  discovered  that  10 
ounces  of  P'.nglish  chocolate,  found  by  Brainard  the  other  day,  and  which  were  placed  for  the  use  of  Elison 
under  the  boat,  were  missing.  Thorough  search  made,  but  it  could  not  be  found.  Henry  was  standing,  the 
other  morning,  under  the  place  where  it  was  moved  again,  it  seems.  Circumstances  all  seem  to  point  towards 
him,  but  it  is  not  certain.  We  burn  two  alcohol  lamps.  Linn  started  in,  instead  of  Biederbick,  as  cook 
this  morning.  Biederbick  has  certain  symptoms  of  ana;mia,  and  the  doctor  thinks  he  hail  better  rest  a  few 
days. 

March  27. — Barometer,  30.08  [764.02'"'"];  thermometer,  —8  [  —  22.2°  C.].  The  storm  continued  with 
great  violence  until  about  midnight,  when  it  ceased.  Suffered  a  good  deal  with  my  feet,  one  of  which  was 
inflamed  and  throbbed  with  pain  all  night.  Very  fine  day  to-day,  calm  and  char.  Long  and  Jans  [JensJ 
went  out  beyond  the  berg  and  hail  wonderful  success.  Long  shot  38  dovekies,  33  of  which  he  brought  in. 
They  were  secured  by  means  of  tht*  kayak.  Five  of  them  flew  off"  and  could  not  be  gotten.  Long  prom- 
ised Lieutenant  Greely  something  to-day  in  the  way  of  food  as  a  birthday  present,  and  well  has  he  kept  his 
promise.  Rice  went  down  to  the  tide  crack,  but  only  got  about  -)^  pounds  of  shrimps  up  to  dinner  time.  I 
was  out  to-day  for  exercise  on  the  hill ;  am  regaining  strength  slowly.  Party  all  in  very  good  spirits  over  the 
success  of  the  hunters.     Frederik,  Eskimo,  is  on  the  sick  list  just  now.     Ellis  somewhat  sick  from  eating 


THE  LADY  KHANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


435 


I 

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stearinc.     Hreakfast  this  morning — 3  ounces  of  bread  and  i  ounce  of  tallow,  and  ,'3-  ounce  shrini|)s  per  man, 
made  in  a  stew,  a  very  good  stew  indeed.     Supper — 4]^  ounces  bread  and  4  ounces  of  preserved  beef. 

A/irnA  28. — Haronieter,  30.13  [765.29"""];  thermometer,  X.  Hreakfast — 4/j  ounces  of  bread  and  cup 
of  tea.  Sup[)er — fine  stew,  consisting  of  6  ounces  of  shrimps,  3  of  bread,  1  of  tallow,  and  i-,\  of  dovekic. 
Rice  got  12  pounds  of  shrim|)s  yesterday  and  no  less  than  27  pounds  to  day.  Long  got  14  dovekies  to-day, 
and  Freilerik,  Eskimo,  shot  one  ptarmigan.  We  all  feel  jubilant  and  sanguine  of  the  future  in  the  highest 
degree.  Long  promises  10  dovekies  every  day,  and  Ri<;e  as  many  pounds  of  shrimps.  Long  saw  a  smalt 
jeal  to-day.  Jans  [JensJ  gets  the  dovekies  in  the  kayak,  which  is  carried  out  for  this  |iurpose.  Weather 
to-day  bright  and  warm  and  calm.  About  9  o'clock  or  thereabouts  it  was  -{-2  [—16.7°  C]  in  the  sun,. and 
—  20  [—28.9°  C.J  in  the  shade.  Hrainard  went  down  to  Cape  Sabine,  but  has  not  returned  u\t  to  dinner 
time.  Rice  went  out  to  his  nets  at  2  o'clock,  but  has  not  yet  returned.  I  was  out  on  the  rocks  to-ilay  near 
Cross'  grave ;  am  still  weak,  but  getting  stronger  daily.  We  all  hope  great  things  from  the  double-barrel 
"son-of-a-gun  "  this  evening.  Frederik,  Kskimo,  came  in  exhausted  today — remained  out  too  long,  looking 
for  another  jjtarmigan.  The  dovekies  are  all  estimated  at  one  pound  each.  Kllis  and  I  picked  birds  this 
morning  for  three  or  four  hours.  I  got  chilled  through.  The  wings,  heads,  and  feet  of  the  dovekies  are 
used  as  bait  for  shrimps.     Rrainard  went  to  Sabine  and  found  old  Kskimo  sledge. 

Jfiin/i  29. — Harometer,  30.50  [774.69"""];  thermometer,  +1  [— i7.2°C.].  Blowing  and  stormy  all 
day — wind  from  the  east — snow  drifting  violently.  Breakfast — no  tea,  but  stew  of  i  ounce  of  tallow,  6  of 
shrimps,  with  4^<C  ounces  of  bread  served  separately.  Pronounced  very  fine  by  every  one.  Supper — stew 
of  1 1  ounces  of  shrimps,  i '/;  of  dovekie  and  i  ounce  of  tallow,  with  2^^  of  bread  served  separately.  Rice 
brought  in  25  pounds  more  of  shrimps  late  last  night.  To-day  Rice  brought  in  12  pounds.  On  his  way 
down  he  saw  a  tlock  of  6  ptarmigan,  and  returning  for  the  gun  shot  one  of  them.  Long  went  out  on  the 
ice  with  Jans  [Jens]  and  saw  some  dovekies,  but  it  blew  and  stormed  so  hard  he  returned.  Ciot  none  to-day. 
I  have  not  been  out  to-day.  Slept  very  poorly  last  night.  Suffered  a  great  deal  from  my  inflamed  feet. 
Meals  to-day  very  filling  and  satisfactory.  Stearine  burned  at  supper  instead  of  alcohol,  and  to  be  burned 
hereafter  for  the  present.     Hrainard  made  some  shot  for  rifle  out  of  lead.     Fox  tracks  seen. 

March  30. — Barometer,  30.50  [774.69"""];  thermometer  about  noon,  —3  [  —  19.4°  C.].  Breakfast — 3^ 
ounces  bread  with  tea.  Stew — 6  ounces  shrimps  and  i  ounce  of  tallow.  Supper — no  hard  bread,  but  tea,  4-,'3- 
ounces  shrimps,  4,\-  ounces  fox,  i  ounce  of  tallow,  and  i  ounce  of  dovekie.  The  storm  continued  during  the 
night  and  continued  during  the  day  with  great  violence,  blowing  very  hard  from  the  east  here  to  the  house. 
No  one  went  out  during  the  day  except  Whisler,  whose  turn  it  was  to  cut  ice.  After  supper  the  wind  died  away 
to  a  great  extent,  and  promises  to  leave  us  with  good  weather.  Conversation  on  the  subject  of  food  has  fallen 
off  during  the  last  few  days,  owing  to  increased  food.  Lots  of  water  now  in  the  straits.  Thermometer  this 
morning  in  the  house,  +2'  [  —  6.1°  C.].  Very  cold  inside  during  the  day.  I  exchanged  places  in  sleeping- 
bags  with  Lynn  day  before  yesterday;  returned  to  my  sloeping-bag  to-night.  Biederbick  is  to  resume  his 
original  place  to-morrow  or  next  day  as  cook.  Frederik,  Kskimo,  still  under  the  weather.  The  rest  of  us 
are  doing  ([uite  well.  Helped  Ellis  to-day  to  pick  dovekies  and  jitarmigan.  Salor  sewed  skins  of  dovekies, 
heads  and  feet  on  a  box  for  bait  for  shrimps.  Large  feed  of  rations  shows  itself  in  the  opening  of  our  bowels. 
Shrimps  or  shells  of  shrimps  noticed  in  the  stools. 

March  31. — Barometer,  30.50  [774.69"'"];  thermometer,  +3  [  — i6.i°C.].  Breakfast — 3^  ounces  of 
bread  in  plate,  a  cup  of  tea,  and  4  ounces  of  shrimps  cold  and  raw.  Supper — stew  of  5  ounces  shrimps,  i 
ounce  bacon  and  i  ounce  dovekie  per  man.  We  all  like  the  raw  shrimps  and  find  them  palatable,  though 
most  of  the  party  prefer  them  in  slew.  If  they  are  had  in  stew,  however,  the  cup  of  tea  is  to  be  cut  off  in 
the  morning.  Storm  raging  all  day  with  a  slight  lull  about  noon.  This  storm  commenced  on  the  evening 
of  the  28th,  and  is  the  worst  since  the  27th  of  September  last.  Long  went  out  to-day  and  brought  in  the 
kayak.  We  were  all  very  anxious  for  him.  Jans  [Jens]  was  out  and  shot  some  ptannigan,  but  could  not 
get  any.  We  are  using  stearine  to-night.  This  is  the  regular  stew  now.  Frederick  thinks  2)/^  pounds  of 
stearine  to-day  for  both  sides  sufficient — evidently  he  is  mistaken.  The  passage-way  drifted  u])  to-day.  This 
wind  makes  the  cold  inside  the  house  more  perceptible  than  when  we  have  a  low  temperature.  I  moved 
back  to  my  bag  this  morning.  Biederbick  resumes  his  place  as  cook  for  our  mess  in  the  morning.  Schneider 
is  cooking  for  the  other  mess  this  evening  instead  of  Frederick,  who  complains  of  having  taken  a  cold. 
Frederik,  Kskimo,  is  under  the  weather.  He  was  given  a  drink  of  rum  to-day  and  also  last  night.  The 
doctor  recommends  a  slight  increase  of  food  for  him.     A  slight  increase  is  now  issued  Long  and  Jans  [Jens]. 


436 


THE  LADY  J  KANKLIN  «AY  EXPEDITION. 


»!:!  1 


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Long  saw  several  dovekies  to-day,  some  three  dozen,  he  says.  The  open  water  is  encroaching  dose  to  the 
I'  [Heel)e]  ( arhe.  Long  reports  a  great  deal  of  open  water  in  tlie  straits.  I  have  missed  the  usual  amount 
of  my  exercise  during  the  past  few  days. 

April   I. —  Maronieter,    30.40    [772.15 J;  thermometer,  +9    [  — ij.8°C'.J,     Hreakfast — 4    ounces    of 

shrimps,  j'j  ouni  es  of  bread,  with  i  of  bacon,  all  in  the  stew  together;  no  le;i.  Supper — (i  ounies  of 
bhrimi)s,  1  ounce  of  bread,  i  ounce  of  bacon,  i  ounce  ol  dovekie,  and  a  cuj)  of  tea.  Rice  brought  in  20 
pounds  of  shrimps  before  supper ;  he  goes  down  again  after  dinner.  Long  got  11  dovekies.  He  .saw  a 
nund)er  of  seals  in  the  water,  and  a  walrus  on  th.e  i<e.  Could  not  get  at  the  last  on  account  of  the  young 
ice.  'i'he  ojien  water  is  now  close  in  to  P  [Beebe]  cache,  lirainard  went  out  with  a  rifle  and  saw  two 
ptarmigan.  Shot  at  them  with  some  shot-gun  cartridges,  improviseil  out  of  rifle  cartriilges  and  lead  cut  U|)  in 
pieces,  but  thougli  he  got  close  to  them  got  none.  We  have  all  felt  cold  and  chilly  to-day,  and  a  depres- 
sion is  hanging  over  the  party — probably  due  tr)  the  short  rations  of  the  jiast  few  days  and  the  indi(  ation 
had,  and  the  late  .storm.  To-night  Schnei<ler  used  stearine  to  cook  with,  and  Uiederbick  alcohol.  The 
stew  and  the  tea  of  the  former  were  cooked  in  89  minutes,  and  of  the  last  in  75  minutes.  I  took  a  walk  \\\i  on 
the  hill  to-day.  Find  myself  (juite  weak.  Sky  hazy  and  air  calm  and  clear.  Greenland  coast  visible  indis- 
tinctly. \Ve  feel  confident  now  of  getting  a  seal  before  many  days.  Frederick  resumes  his  cooking  in  the 
morning.  This  miserable  life  does  not  improve  our  tempers,  and  we  are  all  more  or  less  irritable.  Rice  is 
to  bring  in  some  sea-weed,  which  we  are  to  try  as  food.  80  pounds  of  stearine  on  hand  tlie  other  day  when 
we  commenced  to  cook  with  it.  The  dovekies  are  skinned  and  supply  the  baits  for  the  shrimps.  The  feet, 
heads,  and  tips  of  wings  are  useil  also.     The  dovekies  and  ptarmigan  are  counted  in  weight  as  a  pound  eac  h. 

April  2. — Harometer,  30.63  [777-99"""J;  thermometer,  — 13  [  —  25.0°  C.|.  Hreakfast — stew  of  7  ounces 
shrimps,  i  ounce  of  bacon,  i^  ounces  of  bread,  and  a  cup  of  tea.  Supper — stew  of  8  ounces  shrimps,  i 
ounce  of  bacon,  1  y^  ounces  bread,  2j^  ounces  of  dovekie,  and  a  cup  of  tea.  The  sky  clear  and  the  sun  shining 
brightly  all  clay,  and  wind  from  the  west.  Rice  brought  in  10  pounds  more  of  shrimps  last  night  after 
supper,  making  30  ])0unds  yesterday.  To-day  he  went  clown  but  one  e,  accomi)aniecl  by  Private  Frederick,  and 
got  32  |)C)uncls.  These  shrimps  are  very  small,  about  the  size  of  caiuied  corn,  which  it  very  much  resendiles. 
The  lieads,  skin,  i\:c .,  of  the  dovekies  are  still  u.sed  as  bait.  I.c)ng  and  Jans  [JeiisJ  were  out  hunting  to-day, 
but  got  nothing.  The  ice  is  crowded  in  towards  the  shore  and  closed  up  the  water-pool;  better  success  per- 
hajis  to-nioriow.  Long  .saw  several  .seals  yesterday.  Cold  and  chilly  in  the  house  to-day.  These  shrimps 
do  not  take  the  place  of  meat  by  any  means.  T  was  out  for  daily  exercise  on  the  lake.  No  wind  is  now 
very  trying.  Was  absent  from  7  a.  m.  until  supper  time  tiiis  afternoon.  15rainard  went  out  after  the  ptar- 
migan, but  did  not  see  them. 

Memorandum :   Pear  cider. 

A  great  deal  of  talk  about  food  all  the  time  now.  We  have  about  exhausted  our  reading.  Biederbick 
reads  a  little  out  of  Nordenskicild's  book  (expedition  to  Spit/bergen)  every  few  evenings.  We  talk  a  great 
deal  about  food.  How  often  my  thoughts  wander  homewards  to  the  clear  ones  there.  It  is  now  very  light 
near  all  night.  Connell  is  going  to  try  fishing  pretty  soon.  Frederik,  Eskimo,  still  complaining  and 
confined  to  the  house. 

April  3. — Barometer,  30.67  [779.00"""] ;  thermometer,  —8  [  —  22.2°  C.J.  Breakfast — tea,  1  y^  ounces  of 
bread,  i  ounce  of  bacon,  and  473  ounces  shrimps  per  man  in  a  stew.  Supper — same  as  breakfast,  with  the 
addition  of  ij^  ounces  of  dovekie,  and  ;-'i  ounces  of  shrimps.  Rice  took  Salor  clown  to  teach  him  his  way 
of  catching  shrinips.  Salor  is  to  relieve  Rice  when  the  latter  goes  after  the  Knglish  meat  Sunday.  They 
are  to  have  8  ounces  pemmican,  6  ounces  of  bread,  and  6  ounces  of  alcohol  per  man  per  day,  for  six  clays. 
Jans  [Jens]  saw  a  bear  track  to-day.  Long  saw  only  a  few  dovekies.  He  got  none  of  them,  but  two  jitar- 
migan  near  the  house  on  his  way  biick.  15rainard  went  out  to-day  for  ptarmigan,  but  got  none.  I  have  not 
felt  very  well  to-day;  felt  chilly  and  out  of  sorts. 

I  am  losing  my  appetite  for  these  shrimp  stews.  Biederbick  and  one  or  two  others  complain  of  the 
same  thing.  Rice  and  Salor  got  15  pounds  of  shrimps  to  day.  \v'eather  very  fine  to-day  excei)ting  light 
wind  from  the  west.  During  the  forenoon  at  .several  times  the  thermometer  in  the  shade  showed  —8 
I  —22.2"  C],  and  at  the  same  time  -f- 1 5  [  —  94°  C.  |  in  the  sun.  'J"he  (ireenland  shore  was  very  distinct  to-day. 
Brainard  counted  the  rifle  cartridges  to-day  and  found  550  on  hand  and  75  shot-gun  cartridges.  We  have 
now  on  hand  about  130  pounds  of  meat,  all  counted,  excepting  shrimps,  and  about  80  pounds  of  bread,  so 
Brainard  tells  me.  About  40  pounds  or  thereabouts  of  stearine  remains.  Frederik,  Eskimo,  seems  in 
very  low  sjjirits.     He  says  he  will  not  get  well.     Snow  in  the  vicinity  of  house  packed  very  hard. 


TUK  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


437 


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April ^. — Barometer,  30.59  \nf>')l"""\'>  thermometer,  —3  [—19.4°  C],  about.  Breakfast — stew  of 
4  ounces  of  sliriinps,  1^'^  ouikcs  of  bread,  1  ounce  of  l)acon,  with  a  cup  of  tea.  Supper — stew  of  5  ounces 
of  shrimps,  i  ]^  ounces  of  bread,  1  ounce  bacon,  i  ;4  ounces  of  dovekie,  and  a  cup  of  tea.  Morning  reported 
fine  in  the  niorninji,  but  chan>;ed  suddenly,  becoming  overcast ;  afterwards  tlie  weather  got  better.  Long 
and  Jans  [Jens]  out  fiir  awhile;  l)ut  they  got  nothing.  They  saw  a  seal,  however,  i)Ut  only  three  dovekies. 
Sah)r  was  oilt  in  place  of  Rice  and  got  20  pounds  of  shrinjps.  I  find  it  takes  an  etibrt  to  get  these  shrimps 
down,  and  from  one  meal  to  another  I  have  a  bad,  fatty  t.isle  in  my  mouth.  I  have  not  felt  ipiite  as 
well  yesterday  and  to-day  as  before.  'This  evening  I  have  taken  Kllis's  place  in  the  sleeping-bag.  He 
has  mine.  Brainard  went  down  to  Sal)ine  tf)-day;  saw  a  bear-track  tpiite  fresh  and  followed  it  to  the  broken 
ice.  Reports  o|ien  water  extending  up  and  down  the  straits- -north  as  far  as  Cape  Napoleon.  Frederik, 
Eskimo,  was  given  a  slight  increase  of  rations. 

April  t,. —  Barometer,  ;   thermometer,  —6  [—21.1°  (!.].     Frederik    Christiansen  die<l  today. 

Breakfast  this  morning — 1^  ounces  of  bread,  i  ounce  of  bacon,  4  ounces  of  shrimps,  and  cup  of  tea. 
Supper — s  ounces  shrimps,  and  i;ji  ounces  ptarmigan,  otherwise  sanie  as  breakfast.  Salor  brought  in 
to-day  i2_}'^  pounds  of  shrimps.  He  only  workefl  one  net  to-day  or  he  might  have  got  more.  Long, 
Kislmgl)ury,and  Jans  [JensJ  out  hunting,  but  got  nothing  nor  saw  anything.  The  ice  has  moved  up  again 
near  shore,  but  there  is  .itill  a  great  deal  of  open  water.  Very  fine  weather  to-day,  mostly  calm,  with  a  slight 
wind  at  times.  Sun  shining  brightly.  Whisler  put  two  windows  in  the  boat  to-<lay;  it  makes  a  great 
difilerence ;  everything  seeming  much  more  cheerful.     One  can  now  see  something  inside  here. 

Frederik  Christiansen,  Kskimo,  died  unexi)ectedly  to  most  of  us  at  9  a.  m.  this  morning.  He  was 
taken  suddenly  worse  last  night,  and  everything  done  for  him  that  suggested  itself,  1  believe.  He  has  been 
failing  for  some  time  past,  but  still  I  did  not  think  there  was  any  danger  of  his  death.  He  was  a  good  man, 
and  I  felt  a  great  affection  for  him.  He  constantly  worked  hard  in  my  service,  and  never  spared  himself 
on  any  sledge  trip.  He  was  burie<l  near  Cross  at  i  o'clock  to-day.  His  death  makes  me  feel  very  sorrowful. 
I  felt  a  great  difficulty  for  some  time  past  in  eating  shrimp  stews,  and  had  to  force  it  down  to  some  extent. 
Fortunately,  Jans  [Jens]  and  I  are  the  only  ones  affected  in  this  way.  'I'o-day  1  had  two  passages — the  last 
of  the  nature  of  diarrhea.     I  find  myself  still  weaker.     'I'o-morrow  morning  I  may  be  cut  off. 

April  G. — Barometer, ;  thermometer,  —  2  [—  18.9°  C.].     Breakfast — the  usual  stew  for  the  party, 

but  I  had  no  shrimps  issued  to  me,  which  in  lieu  thereof  1  had  about  4  ounces  of  dovekie,  \\\m\\  I  ate  raw. 
Supper  to-night  consisted  of  stew  of  5  ounces  of  English  pemmican  with  the  usual  amount  of  bread.  Tea 
at  both  meals.  We  now  have  two  windows  in  the  top  of  the  boat;  it  makes  a  very  cheerful  change.  .Salor 
got  15  pounds  of  shrimps  to-day  between  noon  and  dinner  time.  The  hunters  shot  two  seals  in  the  water 
and  two  dovekies,  but  got  nothing.  I  had  a  very  loose  passage  this  morning  in  the  nature  of  diarrhea. 
Poor  Linn  is  worse  to-day.  He  has  been  unconscious  since  about  1.30  p.  m.  It  is  now  about  5  o'clock. 
We  are  all  doing  our  best  to  keep  up  our  spirits.  Rice  and  Frederick  will  leave  this  evening.  We  all 
complain  of  being  much  weaker  since  eating  these  shrimps  exclusively.  I  find  myself  particularly  so;  am 
hardly  able  to  rise  without  aid.  1  find  to  write  these  notes  to-night  requires  a  great  effort.  Brainard,  Kis- 
lingbury,  Ellis,  and  Whisler  went  down  this  afternoon  and  pulled  the  small  sledge  to  the  top  of  the  rocks  or 
hill  to  the  south,  so  as  to  save  Rice  that  much  work.  The  doctor  gives  me  iron  and  also  opium  to-day. 
Our  talk  is  constantly  about  food  or  the  delights  of  home.  Lights  are  done  away  with,  now  that  we  have 
windows.  Snowing  slightly  this  evening.  Day  calm,  tiiough  slightly  overcast.  Jewell  gave  out  to-d.-.y 
and  was  unable  to  cut  ice. 

April  7. — Barometer,  X;  thermometer,  —7  [  —  21.7°  C.].  Breakfast — stew  of  6  measure  cups  of 
shrimps,  i  ounce  of  bacon,  and  1%'  ounces  of  hard  bread,  and  a  cup  of  tea.  Supper — stew  of  7  measure 
cups  of  shrimps,  i  ounce  of  bacon,  and  i^  ounces  of  hard  bread,  and  a  cup  of  tea. 

Sergeant  Linn  died  at  7  p.  m.  yesterday.  He  was  unconscious  since  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  He 
was  buried  to-day  by  the  side  of  Cross  at  9^  this  morning.  It  seems  he  felt  his  end  approaching  and  gave 
some  direction  regarding  his  last  wishes.  His  death  was  a  good  deal  of  a  surprise  to  me.  His  death  has 
cast  a  gloom  on  the  party  during  the  day.  He  was  much  liked  and  highly  spoken  of  by  all.  The  burial 
service  was  read  here  at  the  hut  by  Lieutenant  Greely,  and  then  the  body  taken  to  the  cemetery  on  the 
sledge  by  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  Brainard,  Connell,  Dr.  Pavy,  Biederbick,  Schneider,  and  Salor.  No  vol- 
ley was  fired  over  the  grave,  as  was  done  with  Cross.  Rice  and  Frederick  left  for  Eskimo  Point  to  get  the 
English  meat  in  Baird  Inlet  at  9  o'clock  last  night.    They  took  the  small  sledge ;  expect  to  be  back  on 


438 


THE  LADY  FKAXKLIX  UAV  KXPEDIXrON. 


Saturday.  To-day  has  been  overca.st  and  snowing,  hut  the  teni|)eraturc  high — no  wind.  I  find  njyself  almost 
as  weak  as  ever  again.  I  have  not  l>een  out  to-day  nor  yesterday.  I  took  a  little  exercise  in  the  hut 
to-day.  Had  a  few  ounces  of  dovekie  issued  to  nie  hist  evening  and  this  morning  in  aildition  to  the  regular 
fare.  The  hunters  have  made  slight  addition.  We  all  h.ad  a  tlrink  of  alcohol  to-day,  made  up  hy  Hieder- 
hick  of  2  parts  of  water  and  i  of  alcohol,  flavored  with  a  little  ammonia,  the  only  thing  Hiederbick  had  ti) 
put  in.    Jewell  is  much  weaker  to-day. 


Lieutenant  Lockwood  discovered  Orcenland  to  be  seen  northeast  for  at  least  lo  to  15  miles  beyond 
the  highest  point  reached  (Lockwood  Island),  latitude  8_^°  24',  longitude  40°  45',  thus  attaining  the  highest 
latitude  ever  made.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  in  1883  failed  to  reach  Cape  Bryant,  owing  to  open  water  in 
Polar  Ocean,  and  from  same  cause  Dr.  Pavy  failed  in  1882  north  of  Cape  Henry.  The  commanding  oft'icer 
made  important  iliscoveries  by  two  trips  into  the  interior  of  (Ireenland  in  i88j.  In  1883  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood  crossed  (Ireenlanil,  from  Patrick  Hay  to  (Ireely  Fiord,  and  reached  in  latter  fiord  80"  48'  north,  78°  30' 
west,  anil  saw  land  running  south  of  west  about  60  miles,  ending  in  Ca[)e  Lockwood.  The  north  side  ended 
about  10  miles  west,  and  from  Lieutenant  (Ireely's  observation  from  Mount  C.  A.  Arthur,  4,.i;oo  feet  [about 
1,370"']  high,  evidently  crosses  gradually  to  extreme  point  seen  by  Lieutenant  Walbridge  (?)  [Aldrich,  k.  N.J. 
The  party  all  well  and  consists  of  25  men,  all  confiden.  of  ultimate  safety.  Conybeare  Hay  opens  into  H 
[Ch.'iniller]  Fiord,  and  thence  by  R.  [Ruggles]  River  io  Lake  Hazen,  a  body  of  water  about  60  by  7  miles 
in  extent.  (Ireenland  [Cirinnell  Land]  is  ice-capped  lorth  and  south,  except  a  band  of  vegetation  about  30 
[60]  miles  wide  from  sea  to  sea.  Kskimo  have  permai  ently  lived  at  the  junction  of  Lake  Hazen  and  R. 
[Ruggles]  River  and  other  ])oints.  Musk-oxen  in  (juite  large  numbers  found  in  this  land.  The  ( oast  northwest 
of  Cape  Britannia  (Nares  Land)  has  been  named  Hazen  Coast;  the  extreme  jKiint  north,  tape  Robert  Lin- 
coln [Washington];  and  the  range  of  mountains  to  the  west  of  (Ireenland,  Ciartield  Land. 

The  mean  temperature  at  Fort  Conger,  iSSi-'Sj,  was  —4.95  [  — .'o.s"  C.j,  the  lowest  ever  known. 
The  temperature  of  —0.7  [—18.2°  C.j  was  observed  in  August,  1883,  u(f  Hache  Island. 

Three  further  records  may  be  looked  for  in  Buvoort  Island,  and  in  coal  pile  in  Littleton  Island,  or  at 
depot  B,  of  1882;  latter  the  north  side  of  island. 

A.  W.  Grkk.lv, 
Lieulenain,  }<ifth  Cavalry,  Lady  Franklin  Expfdition. 


B. — Copy  of  record  for  Cape  Isabella. 

Camped  south  side  Newton  CUacier,  October  11,  1883.  Notice  left  by  Lieutenant  Greely's  party 
retiring  from  Fort  Conger.  Left  Fort  Conger  August  9,  with  steam  launch.  Lieutenant  dreely,  and  three 
boats.  Beset,  August  26,  1883,  in  79°  24'  north  latitude,  and  about  74°  west  longitude,  and  after  strenuous 
efforts  to  reach  land,  reached  shore  here  with  boat  and  sledge  and  35  days'  rations,  September  29th. 

.Sergeant  Rice  visited  Sabine,  and  learned  that  S.  S.  Protius  sunk  in  Buchanan  Straits  July  23,  1883, 
Winter  quarters  have  been  built  here,  but  will  be  moved  to  wrecked  [wreck]  cache  between  (locked  Hat 
Island  and  Cape  .Sabine,  .is  there  are  about  1,300  rations,  except  fuel,  near  there.  Those  rations  will  be 
made  to  last  until  April  i,  1884.  If  nothing  is  heard  from  Littleton  Island  by  March  loth,  the  |)arty  will 
cross  10  that  point  and  depend  on  cache  B  and' hunting,  or  with  the  Eskimo  below  until  relieved.  Records 
and  pendulum  will  be  left  on  Brevoort  or  Littleton  Island,  according  to  circumstances.  Lieutenant  (iarling- 
ton  and  Proteus  crew  all  saved;  left  Brevoort  Island,  July  24th,  to  communicate  with  the  United  .States 
Steamer  [Vantic],  or  British  steamer.  Sergeant  Rice,  who  discovered  Rice  Strait,  running  from  Rice  Bay 
to  Cape  Rutherford,  making  Sabine  an  island,  will  make  a  second  dangerous  trip  to  Isabella  to  .ascertain  the 
amount  of  F^nglish  meat,  and  whether  the  American  steamer  has  left  anything,  in  addition,  in  1882. 


l\  I 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAV  EXPEDITION. 


430 


C. — Order  ticket  by  /.ienlettant  Greely. 

North  SiUK  Bairu  I.Ni.ET,  &//^«^r  30,  1883. 
To  Lieut.  J.  n.  LocKWooD, 

Tiventythird  Infantry,  Commtitidinir  Second  Officer: 
Sir:  You  will  proceed  to-morrow  morning  with  the  Knglish  sledge  and  nine  men  to  Cape  Sabine  for 
the  purpose  of  bringing  back  the  depot  of  240  rations  left  there  by  Nares,  i)rovided  that  this  is  the  only  dej)ot 
there.  In  case  other  rations  are  found  there,  you  will  bring  back  only  such  few  necessaries  as  we  may 
re([uire  while  moving  the  whole  of  the  party  up  to  that  place.  Vou  will  also  have  the  records,  itc,  furnished 
[cached]  on  the  site  of  the  Knglish  cache.  One  of  the  two  tin  cylinders  containing  records  will  be  left  at  the 
English  cache  and  the  other  in  the  Knglish  cairn  on  the  island  of  Brevoort. 


D. — Memorandum^  September  ig. 

Sergeant  Brainard  thinks  we  should  remain  here  until  the  first  favorable  opportunity. 
Sergeant  ki«  e  thinks  that  we  can  take  greater  chances  of  reaching  the  (Ireenland  shore  than  we  can  to 
reach  Sabine,  but  at  present  sees  no  opportunity  or  encouragement  to  move  in  cither  direction. 

Minutes,  September  24. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury  does  not  advise  moving  to-day,  on  account  of  the  unsettled  coniUtion  of  the  ice, 
the  wind,  and  the  lateness  of  the  hour;  and  thinks  it  will  be  better  to  wait  a  few  days  longer  in  the  hopes 
of  getting  a  lower  temperature,  and  the  ice  pressing  together. 

Dr.  Pavy  recommends  crossing  the  lead,  with  the  Knglish  boat,  and  reconnoitering,  with  a  view  of 
reaching  the  whale-boat,  owing  to  the  great  importance  of  recovering  it. 

Sergeant  Brainard  agreed  with  the  doctor  in  the  plan  of  reconnoitering. 

Sergeant  Rice  thinks  we  all  ought  to  be  moving  to-day,  but  that  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  and  the 
weather  being  unsettled,  to  agree  that  those  who  desire  to  get  on  the  floe  with  the  whale-boat,  if  possible,  to 
have  the  kayak  sent  out. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  advises  moving  at  once,  at  least  to  the  body  on  the  floe  next  to  the  west,  and 
either  reconnoiter  with  a  view  to  reaching  the  whale-boat  or  doing  something  else. 

E.  — Memorandum. 

Cape  Isabella — cairn  700'. — Few  cases  i)reserved  meat — 300'  magnetic  west  of  cairn.  About  144 
pounds  of  meat. 

Minutes,  September  ig. 

Question  to  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  :  "  If  we  miss  Brevoort  Island,  do  you  think  we  can  land  to  the 
south  of  Brevoort  Island?" 

Answer:  "  It  is  a  question  I  cannot  answer  with  certainty." 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  answered  the  same  question,  that  he  could  not  say ;  it  was  a  matter  of  chance 
of  the  drift. 

Dr.  Pavy  answered:  "I  will  see  after  we  are  a  mile  from  Cape  Sabine." 

Sergeant  Braint*-  !  replied  to  the  same  question  that  he  thinks  there  will  be  some  chance  of  reaching 
shore  south  of  Brevoort  Island  in  case  we  find  it  within  a  mile  or  so. 

Sergeant  Rice  (rinks  there  are  some  chances  of  reaching  the  shore  ofi"  Brevoort  Island,  as  the  coast 
above  Cape  Isabella  was  reached. 

Kislingbury  amended  his  opinion  that  there  are  chances  of  making  the  west  shore  at  the  north  of  Cape 
Isabella. 

Lieutenant  Greely:  "  If  the  party  passes  Brevoort  Island,  I  think  it  almost  impossible  that  Cape  Isa- 
bella— the  most  favorable  point — can  be  reached." 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury  advises  making  no  move  for  the  present,  but  wait  for  the  floe  to  set  in  to  some 
fixed  position. 

Dr.  Pavy's  opinion  is  to  remain  here  until  something  develops  itself. 


i 

1 

1 

:'• 

ii 

I"! 

440 


The  lady  franklin  uaY  E^tPEDixrojiT. 

F. — MiHulcSy  September  25. 


Lieutenant  Greely  endorses  reduction  of  rations,  and  thinks  it  would  be  best  to  wait  a  day  or  two  and 
see  what  the  drift  does,  and  in  the  mean  time  keep  close  Watch  on  it  by  examining  the  neighboring  floes. 

Dr,  Pavy  endorses  reduction  of  rations.  Thinks  the  Ice  should  be  immediately  examined,  hnd  thinks 
that  if  the  ice  is  found  practicable  we  should  move  at  cnce  to  the  southwest. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  endorses  the  reduction  of  rations.  Thinks  we  should  wait  a  day  or  two  until 
some  knowledge  of  the  drift  is  ascertained. 

Brainard  and  Rice  are  substantially  of  the  same  opinion  as  the  last. 

Sergeant  Brainard  thinks  we  should  wait  over  the  spring  tides. 

Lieutenant  Greely  thinks  nothing  should  be  done  until  the  spring  tides  are  passed. 


G. — Miscellaneous  Memorandum, 

July  25,  1883.  Pieces  washed  by  Cross  to  date,  per  Mem.  Book 20 

July  24,  1883.  Pieces  washed  by  Jans  [Jens]  to  date,  per  Mem.  Book 67 

Reward  offered  by  me  to  Greenland  sledge  party :  $450  in  all,  one-fourth  to  Brainanl,  and  four-sevenths  of  the  remainder 
divided  equally  between  Ralston,  Linn,  and  Klison;  the  remaining  three-sevenths  divided  equally  between  Jewell,  Salor,  and 
Frederik.     I  promised  Frederik,  Eskimo,  100  crowns. 

Latitude  SE.,  island,  Carey  group,  76°  42'.     Longitude,  72^°. 

Hakluyt  Islands  probably  best  pl.ace  to  take  departure  from.     It  is  34  iniles  distant,  about. 

Sept.  15,  1883. — I  wonder  where  I  ^iiall  be  this  day  1884 — if  in  this  world  or  in  another. 


H. — Left  behind  at  Fort  Conger. 

^eal-skin  coat  lined  with  doe-skin .  10 

Old  walking  coat 15 

One  suit  of  chamois-skin 12 

Seal-skin  footstool 2 

Musical  instrument 10 

Pair  of  shoes 2 

Trunk 10 

Suit  of  merino  shirt  and  drawers 15 

Several  pairs  of  socks 3 

Vest 6 

Two  blankets 8 

Scents  [cologne,  etc.] 5 

While  shirts,  cuffs,  collars,  &c 10 

Hat.  2 

Sleeping  boots,  &c.  (should  be  paid  for  out  o(  signal  appropriation) 10 

Miscellaneous ..... 10 

»30 


SHRGKANT  BRAINARD'S  JOURNAL  FROM  BBRTMnXT. 


Appendix  No.  124. 


Extract  from  the  journal  of  Sergeant  David  L.  Ihainant,  from  Aiis^iisf  j6,  rSSj,  to  fane  sr, 

yiS'cS'/)  inc/asiz'e. 


Sunday,  An^^nst  iG,  18S3. — Israel  and  Whisler,  who  were  on  watdi  at  tlie  time  (2  a.  m.),  roported  a 
movement  in  the  ice  highly  favorable  to  our  wishes.  We  immediately  started,  and,  rountling  Cape  Louis 
Napoleon  without  serious  opposition,  entered  Oobbin  Ray,  where  we  found  shelter  In  a  snug  little  harbor  not 
far  from  the  cape.  The  weather  was  exceeilingly  cold  and  disagreeable,  and  here  we  were  forced  to  remain 
until  10  a.m.,  on  account  of  a  dense  fog  which  obscured  everything  beyond  our  immediate  vicinity.  The 
fog  at  that  time  was  less  dense,  and  our  course  towards  Cape  Hawks  was  shaped  by  the  compass.  The  bay 
was  comparatively  free  of  ice,  and  its  southern  limit  at  Cape  Hawks  was  reached  in  about  four  l»ours'  steamiiig. 
After  some  difficulty  the  cache  of  English  provisions  was  found  by  I,ieutenant  Cireely  and  Connell.  The 
greater  part  of  the  bread  was  moldy  and  much  of  it  was  entirely  ruined.  The  amounts  collected  in  the 
aggregate  were  about  300  pounds.  Of  other  articles  there  were  168  pounds  of  desiccated  potatoes,  3  gallons 
rum,  and  i  small  keg  of  onion  pickles.  Rice,  who  had  been  dispatched  to  Washington  Irving  Island  with 
his  boat,  the  A'limi/itit,  to  examine  the  cairn  on  its  summit  for  records,  returned  with  the  discouraging  report 
that  it  had  not  been  visited  since  August,  1881,  when  we  passed  up  the  coast  in  the  jyo/iits.  He  left  a 
brief  note  in  the  cairn  descriptive  of  our  retreat  from  Fort  Conger.  He  reported  that  the  ice  in  the  direction 
of  Cape  Sabine  .-appeared  f;ivorable  for  being  navigated  by  a  ship.  At  4  p.  m.  we  resumed  our  course  to 
the  southward.  Rite  being  designated  by  Lieutenant  Greely  to  act  as  steersman  of  the  launch.  He  proved 
more  skillful  in  this  capacity  than  any  one  who  had  preceded  him  at  the  tiller.  It  is  but  natural  that  our 
mine''  should  now  be  haunted  by  gloomy  thoughts.  Where  is  the  ship  which  we  have  been  looking  for  so 
long,  and  which  we  confidently  expected  wouUl  meet  us  ere  this  ?  Siie  is  either  lost  in  Melville  liay  or 
else  in  this  pack.  If  a  naval  vessel  has  been  sei.t  to  our  relief  she  would  not  dare  to  enter  this  ice,  and  she 
is  probably  now  at  Littleton  Island,  awaiting  our  arrival. 

After  rounding  C  pe  Hawks  the  coast  was  abandoned  and  our  boats  steered  directly  for  C'ape  Sabine, 
which  stands  out  boldly  fifty  miles  to  the  southward.  The  lanes  which  we  followed  soon  closed  in  conse- 
quence of  a  general  movement  in  the  i)ack,and  our  boats  thus  che':ked  were  tied  up  to  a  floe,  whiih  had  a 
sluggish  southerly  drift.  It  is  evident  that  very  few  storms  have  visited  this  locality  during  the  summer,  as 
the  absence  of  abrasion  of  the  floc-edges  is  particularly  noticeable.  It  has  been  a  beautiful  afternoon,  with 
a  clear  and  cloudless  sky  and  bright  sun.  The  temperature  fell  to  -|-  18  [  —  7.8°C.|  this  evening,  an<l  ice  was 
rapidly  formed  in  consc(iuence.  Snow  has  fiillen  to  a  depth  of  two  feet  [.6'"]  at  Cajie  Hawks  this  year. 
Rice  was  again  accidentally  thrown  from  his  boat  to-day  and  was  thoroughly  drenched  in  the  sea. 

Monday,  August  27,  1883. — The  boats  were  firmly  frozen  into  the  floe  this  morning  and  covced  with 
a  thick  coating  of  frost.  All  our  efforts  to  extricate  them  were  unavailing.  It  was  a  beautifully  clear 
morning  at  4  o'clock,  but  at  7  we  were  envelopeil  in  a  dense  fog  which  ajjproached  us  from  the  north.  The 
pack  is  firmly  closed  and  no  indication  of  its  scattering  is  apparent.     It  appears,,  however,  to  have  a  slight 

441 


442 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIN  IJAY  EXPEDITION. 


^i    3 


!  f 


i!.; 


■i       :  •- 


:   ^  II 


northerly  movement,  but  the  change  in  our  position  to-day  has  been  inconsiderable.  The  flowing  tide 
evidently  overcomes  the  southerly  current,  and  the  direction  of  the  drift  is  thus  changed  for  brief  periods 
each  day. 

Our  position,  as  determined  by  Israel,  from  astronomical  observations,  is  in  latitude  97°  22'  north; 
longitude,  73°  00'  05"  west.  Lieutenant  Greely  addressed  the  party  briefly  this  morning,  to  allay  serious 
ai /prehensions  of  danger  in  our  present  situation,  and  to  explain  his  reasons  for  leaving  the  land  to  enter  the 
T/ack. 

Gardiner  reports  having  seen  several  narwhals  in  a  pool  near  our  position.  As  the  date  of  our  escape 
from  this  pack  is  now  a  matter  of  conjecture,  I  asked  Lieutenant  Greely  to  make  a  reduction  in  the  issue 
of  provisions,  in  order  that  they  should  be  extended,  but  he  would  not  accede  to  my  request. 

We  rigged  a  tripod  on  the  floe  this  evening,  on  which  a  flag  was  placed.  It  can  be  ascended  to  a  height 
of  fifteen  feet  [4.5'"],  and  will  aflt)rd  us  an  extensive  view  over  neighboring  floes.  The  ice  formed  over  an  inch, 
[25.4"""]  in  thickness  last  night.  On  a  small  paleocrystic  floe,  not  far  from  where  our  boats  are  hauled  up 
a  small  pool  of  fresh  water  has  been  found  which  will  supply  our  party  with  an  unlimited  quantity  for  some 
days,  and  in  consequence  permit  us  to  economize  in  the  use  of  fuel.  A  clear,  beautiful  evening.  The  tem- 
perature fell  to  +12.5°  [—10.8°  C]  at  II  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  August  2^,  1883. — The  pack  in  which  we  are  imprisoned  drifted  slightly  to  the  north  and 
east  during  the  night.  A  southerly  motion  has  also  been  detected,  and  we  are  now  pretty  well  satisfied  that 
our  n'ovements  are  subject  to  the  caprices  of  the  tides.  The  pack  opened  slightly  last  evening,  but  before  we 
could  make  any  preparation  for  our  departure  it  h.id  closed  again.  If  the  ice  is  not  broken,  and  the  pack 
thus  opened  by  a  gale  cr  by  the  tides  within  ten  days,  to  facilitate  our  movements,  we  will  be  compelled 
to  seek  safety  in  aoandoning  everything  except  our  provisions  and  the  twenty-foot  [6"'J  ice-boat  and  make 
a  dash  for  Littleton  Island.  The  new  ice  is  now  three  inches  [76.2"""]  thick,  and  is  strong  enough  to  sup- 
port Connell,  who  walked  over  its  surface  this  morning.  It  has  been  a  bright,  pleasant  day,  and  through 
the  clear  atmosphere  the  coast  of  Grsenland  to  the  south  and  east  could  be  distinctly  seen.  A  well-marked 
drift  to  the  south  was  observed  during  flood  tide  to-day.  Adversity  in  its  worst  form  would  not,  I  think,  be 
suflicient  to  depress  the  spirits  of  our  men.  Our  situation  is  tlesperate.  Any  moment  this  ice  may  crumble 
beneath  our  feet  and  crush  the  entire  party  in  its  icy  jaws;  but  notwithstanding  this  danger  the  men,  while 
on  the  floe  exercising  this  evening,  danced  and  sang  as  joyously  as  they  would  have  done  in  their  own 
homes.  They  are  indeed  irrepressible  in  the  face  of  all  this  uncertainty,  perhaps  starvation.  The  icy  grasp 
of  winter  is  now  rapidly  encircling  us.     Something  must  be  done  soon. 

llWnfst/aj',  August  29,  1883. — The  weather  has  continued  cloudy  and  the  temperature  has  remained 
high  allMay.  The  drift  continues,  but  the  progress  southward  is  not  percepuble  to  the  eye  alone.  By  the 
aid  of  compass  bearings,  however,  Israel  places  the  approximate  distance  of  our  southerly  drift  at  three 
miles.  Lanes  opened  out  through  the  pack  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Prescott  this  morning,  but  we  were 
unable  to  get  to  them  owing  to  intervening  ice.  The  change  of  tide  caused  tiitm  all  to  close  again.  Our 
time  is  passed  drearily  enough  in  reading,  sleeping,  and  eating.  The  sergeants  in  turn  take  tours  of  two 
hours  each  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  ice.  The  others  perform  no  duty  except  that  of  cooking.  'I"he 
snow  is  from  twelve  to  twenty  inches  [.3  to  .5'"]  in  depth  on  the  floe.  I  am  fearful  that  we  will  find  this  a 
serious  impediment  if  it  should  become  necessary  for  us  to  abandon  the  boats  (except  one)  and  travel  across 
the  floe  towards  Cape  Sabine.  Jev/ell  saw  a  small  white  fox  prowling  about  the  boats  early  this  morning,  but 
before  a  gun  could  be  secured  the  little  rascal  had  sniffed  danger  in  the  air  and  disajipeared  from  view. 
These  little  animals  are  often  seen  on  the  floe  in  this  manner,  far  from  land  and  with  no  apjxirent  purpose. 
They  must  secure  a  very  precarious  living  on  these  desolate  and  l)arr>n  ice-fields.  I  believe  that  the  English 
expedition  of  i875-'76  shot  one  on  the  i<e  in  this  vicinity. 

Thursday,  August  t,o,  1883. — The  drift  from  midnight  until  10  a.  m.  was  about  one  mile  to  the  north- 
east. It  then  turned  and  drifted  to  the  southwest  for  a  distance  of  one  and  two-tenths  miles  in  a  short  time. 
At  noon  we  were  in  latitude  79°  20'  nortli,  longitude  7:;°  45'  west.  The  minimum  tem])erature  for  last  night 
was  -|-ii.8  [—11.2°  C.j.  No  party  has  ever  ex|)e."ienced  so  low  a  temperature  in  .Vugust.  The  day  has 
been  clear  and  beautiful,  but  just  before  midnight  clouds  obscured  the  sky.  Numerous  water-spaces  are 
visible  to  the  north  and  east  of  our  camj),  and  the  dark  clouds  overhanging  the  southern  horizon  indicate 
also  that  there  is  an  abundance  of  water  in  that  direction.  The  cooks  used  the  stearine  lamps  to-day  for 
the  first  time  and  found  that  they  worked  in  a  very  satisfactory  nanner.  Tiie  length  of  time  required  to 
cook  our  meals  with  stearine  does  not  vary  .Materially  from  that  consumed  when  alcohol  is  used  for  the  same 


U  :; 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


443 


purpose.  I  made  an  inventory  of  the  provisions  this  evening  and  found  that  fifty-five  days'  supplies  were 
on  hand.  These  can,  however,  be  extended  for  seventy  days.  Lieutenant  Greely  '  ifornied  me  that  he 
would  start  with  boats  and  sledges  for  Litdeton  Island  as  soon  as  the  state  of  the  ice  would  permit,  livery- 
thing  not  useful  to  us,  or  in  the  least  cumbersome,  will  of  cours'j  be  abandoned  here  or  at  the  place  where 
we  make  the  fin  1  start.  Before  beginning  the  journey  over  the  floe  towards  Littleton  Islantl  the  pendulum 
and  records  will  be  cached,  if  possible,  at  Victoria  Head.     Their  safety  is  a  matter  of  deep  concern  to  us. 

Friday,  Au,i;/isf  ^i,  1883. — The  day  opened  cloudy  and  with  a  light  northeast  wind.  At  8  a.  m.  snow 
began  falling,  but  about  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  it  ceased.  Temperature  high  for  this  season.  Rain 
began  falling  during  the  evening  rendering  it  necessary  for  us  to  hastily  improvise  rude  shelters,  under  v/hich 
we  found  only  a  partial  protection  from  the  elements. 

'I'he  distance  which  our  floe  has  drifted  to  the  south  during  the  last  twenty-four  hours,  as  estimated  Iiy 
Israel,  is  three  miles.     Very  little  inclination  of  the  floe  to  the  eiistward  has  been  noted. 

Saturday,  Septemhcr  i,  1883. — Cloudy  weather  prevailed  during  the  morning,  and  d  dense  fog  hung  over 
the  coast  with  Victoria  Head  visible  above  it.  During  the  afternoon,  however,  the  weather  was  bright  and 
cheerful  and  the  temperature  comparatively  high.  We  are  still  drifting  gradually  to  the  south.  Our  lati- 
tude to-day,  as  determined  by  Israel,  is  79°  19'.  The  longitude  does  not  differ  materially  from  that  obtained 
at  the  last  observation.  At  2.15  p.  m.  the  northern  ice-pack  came  charging  down  on  our  i-.nprotected  floe, 
shattering  like  glass  the  ice  which  opposed  its  formidable  front  anil  heaping  it  in  great  quivering  and  groan- 
ing masses  about  us.  Our  boats  were  hauled  up,  but  none  too  soon ;  a  moment  later  and  they  would  have 
been  nothing  but  a  bundle  of  splinters.  The  relentless  pressure  openec^  wide  seams  in  the  floe  on  which 
we  were  encamped  and  severely  nipped  Lady  Greely,  which  was  anchored  to  the  ice  near  us.  Sin  did  not 
succumb  to  the  measureless  force  as  we  had  expected,  but  rose  grandly  as  the  pressure  increased,  and  stood 
upright  high  above  the  water  in  the  cradle  formed  for  her  by  the  grinding  ice.  At  6.30  p.  m.  she  gradually 
settled  i.ito  the  water  again,  the  ice  having  slackened  at  the  turning  of  the  tide  and  the  pressure  in  conse- 
quence removed.  About  11  p.  m.  she  sustained  another  nip  from  a  sudden  movement  in  the  floe,  but  as  on 
the  former  occasion  she  rose  nobly  undor  the  severe  strain  and  remained  uninjured.  Dense  water-clouds 
of  inky  blackness  are  hovering  over  the  horizon  to  the  north  and  east.  A  great  expanse  of  water  is  also 
supposed  to  exist  near  the  coast. 

Our  two  natives,  Jens  and  Christiansen,  each  killed  a  seal  to-day.  A  good-natured  spirit  of  rivalry  in  the 
matter  of  hunting  exists  between  these  faithful  fellows,  It  is  suspected  that  Christiansen,  whose  blood  has 
been  freely  intermingled  with  that  of  the  Danes,  often  takes  an  unfair  advantage  of  his  darker  brother.  As 
an  incentive  for  them  to  hunt,  a  drink  of  rum  is  given  them  whenever  a  seal  is  killed.  Six  other  seals  were 
seen  in  a  pool  not  far  from  our  floe,  but  none  were  shot.  No  portion  of  these  animals  is  lost ;  even  the 
blood  is  now  considered  a  luxury,  and  is  eagerly  sought  for  by  ne.arly  all  of  us,  .and  is  swallowed  without  the 
slightest  feeling  of  repugnance.  If  drank  wp.-m  it  is  very  palatable,  and  in  flavor  not  unlike  uncooked  eggs. 
It  possesses  excellent  qualities  as  an  anti-scorbutic.  During  the  evening  several  individual  lanes  of  water 
appe.ared  in  our  vicinity,  but  as  none  of  them  were  connected  with  the  pool  in  which  our  boats  were  lying 
at  the  time,  no  attempt  was  made  to  reach  them.  It  is  observed  that  ice  forms  over  these  pools  in  an  almost 
incredible  short  space  of  time.  Our  boots  are  in  a  most  wretched  condition,  and  we  refrain  from  walking 
about  as  much  as  've  otherwise  would  on  this  ,'^cc;ouI.t.  The  greatest  discomfort  that  we  are  called  upon  to 
endure  is  the  constant  dam])ness  of  our  feet  because  of  this  defective  foot-gear.  The  only  damage  sustained 
by  our  equipment  during  the  confusion  this  morning  was  the  crushing  of  two  small  alcohol  cans,  which  very 
fortunately  contained  none  of  the  valuable  fluid. 

Sunday^  September  2,  18S3. — I  went  on  watch  at  4  a.  m.,  at  which  time  the  launch  had  settled  quietly 
down  in  her  bed  through  the  loosening  of  the  ice,  and  ap|)eared  to  be  none  the  worse  for  the  severe  sipieez- 
ing  to  which  she  had  been  subjected  by  the  pack.  The  fog  cleared  away  at  5  a.  m.,  permitting  us  to  obtain 
a.i  excellent  view  of  our  surroundings.  Our  southerly  drift  since  yesterday  has  been  estimated  at  over  three 
miles,  'i'he  Lady  Greely  was  lifted  frequently  in  her  bed  to  day  by  the  spasmoilic  pressure  of  the  ice,  but  no 
injuries  were  received.  Our  floe,  which  is  only  of  one  year's  growth,  is  slowly  but  surely  crumbling  away 
from  beneath  us  by  the  tremendous  pressure  from  the  nortlicrn  [jack,  wliich  is  influenced  by  the  currents 
and  tides.  An  opportunity  occurred  last  night  for  changing  our  position  a  short  distance,  but  it  was  not 
taken  advantage  of.  At  1 1  p.  m.,  however,  we  moved  to  another  floe,  which  is  larger  and  thicker  than  the 
first,  and  which  we  trust  will  withstand  the  disastrous  effects  of  a  gale.  The  barometer  is  falling  rapidly. 
Maximum  temperature,  -|-32-2  [-fo.ioC],  mininuim,  -f23.5°  [  — 4.7°C.|. 


S   *"^    'Ti 


444 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


J5 


Monday,  September  3,  1885. — On  rising  for  breakfast  this  morning,  I  was  much  surprised  to  observe  the 
remarkable  progress  southward  which  our  floe  must  have  made  during  the  night  and  this  morning  while 
the  coast  was  hidden  by  a  dcn;e  fog.  Such  favorable  results  in  our  drifting  always  produce  an  upward 
tendency  in  the  '"social  barometer"  of  the  party.  We  do  not,  however,  lose  sight  of  the  dangers  by  which 
we  are  surrounded,  nor  the  uncertainties  of  our  position. 

A  meridian  altitude  placed  us  in  latitude  79°  15'  N.  From  compass  sights  taken  during  the  afternoon 
it  was  ascertained  that  we  had  drifted  with  the  flood  tide  to  the  northward  two  miles  in  four  hours.  A  few 
water  pools  appear  in  our  immediate  vicinity,  but  to  the  north,  east,  and  west  the  floe,  to  all  appearances, 
is  firm  and  compact.  A  thick  fog  veiled  the  coast  during  the  evening.  Some  sharp  criticisms,  which  were 
made  by  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  on  our  present  inactivity,  were  overheard  and  objected  to  by  Lieutenant 
Greely.  He  (Lieutenant  Greely)  soon  afterwards  directed  me  to  summons  Lieutenants  Lockwood  and  Kis- 
lingbury, Doctor  Pavy,  and  Sergeant  Rice  for  a  consultation  as  to  the  best  method  of  proceeding  to  land. 
I  was  also  directed  to  be  present.  On  invitation  by  Lieutenant  Greely  the  following  recommendations  were 
made:  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  advised  that  we  abandon  the  launch  \Lady  Greefy]  and  the  English  jolly  boat 
Fti/o/vi/s,  and  taking  the  two  remaining  boats  move  them  across  the  intei'vening  spaces  of  water,  from  floe  to 
floe,  to  Albert  Head,  and  thence  across  Uuchanan  Strait  to  Cape  Sabine.  Doctor  Pavy  would  take  one  boat 
and  proceed  in  the  same  direction.  He  agrees  with  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  that  the  start  should  be  made 
to-morrow,  or  as  soon  thereafter  as  practicable.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  of  the  opinion  that  it  was  par- 
ticularly dtsimble  to  reach  the  shore  as  quickly  as  possible,  but  was  not  prepared  to  pass  judgment  for  final 
action.  I  did  not  advise  a  movement  in  the  present  unsettled  state  of  the  pack,  but  would  wait  until  the 
end  of  the  month,  or  until  the  floe  had  cemented  sufliciently  to  admit  of  our  traveling  over  it  with  our  heavy 
loads.  In  the  meantime  we  woiild  be  drifting  slowly  to  the  south.  When  the  retreat  began  I  was  of  the 
opinion  that  only  one  boat  should  be  taken,  and  that  the  party  should  endeavor  to  reach  Cape  Sabine.  If 
no  considerable  quantity  of  provisions  were  found  there,  to  divide  the  party,  sending  the  strongest  to  Little- 
ton Island  with  the  boat.  Rice  made  substantially  the  same  recommendations  that  had  been  made  by  me. 
As  a  result  of  this  conference,  Lieutenant  Greely  decided  to  remain  here  until  the  new  ice  had  cemented 
the  floes  together  sufliciently  to  admit  of  our  traveling  with  facility  over  them.  In  the  meantime  we  would 
take  advantage  of  any  and  every  opening  in  the  ice  which  would  permit  us  to  move  southward. 
Whisler  w.as  dischargetl  from  the  service  and  re  enlisted  to-day. 

2'uesdtiy,  Septemher  4,  1883. — Our  floe  continues  to  drift  slowly  to  the  southeast  under  the  influence 
of  the  currents.  Snow  has  been  falling  steadily  all  day,  rendering  the  condition  of  the  party  absolutely 
wretched. 

Frederick,  Schneider,  and  myself,  with  the  assistance  of  a  few  others  who  were  to  receive  the  benefits, 
constructed  a  "te))ee,"  after  the  model  of  those  used  by  the  North  American  aborigines.  By  crowding 
closely,  it  can  be  made  to  accommodate  sixteen  men.  The  other  nine  will  find  shelter  in  Connell's  boat, 
over  which  a  housing  will  be  placed.  Jens  was  fortunate  enough  to  shoot  another  small  seal  to-day. 
While  on  duty  this  evening  I  observed  a  movement  in  the  ice  and  saw  a  small  lead  opening.  This  I 
at  once  reported  to  Lieutenant  Greely  who  ordered  the  party  aroused.  Rice  ascended  the  "lookout,"  and 
reported  the  lead  in  favorable  condition  for  navigation  by  our  boats.  Started  at  9  p.  m.,and  after  working 
for  a  short  distance  through  stream  ice,  we  ent.,'red  a  lead  which  ran  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Albert.  After 
pushing  ahead  for  little  more  than  a  mile,  th,'  lead  closed  and  our  boats  were  hiuled  on  the  floe,  and  all 
except  the  solitary  watch  retired  at  up.  m.  During  the  brief  trip  the  launch  was  towed  by  the  boats. 
This  was  made  necessary  by  the  displacement  of  her  fan  (pi.jpeller),  which  occurred  yesterday  while  under- 
going the  terrific  ])ressure  in  the  pack.  Cross  and  Elison  began  work  on  two  small  sledges,  with  which,  in 
addition  to  the  large  English  sledge,  we  will  endeavor  to  make  our  escape  from  this  inhospitable  floe  to  a 
more  congenial  region.  The  interior  wood-work  of  the  Lady  Greely  will  be  sacrificed  for  sledge-runners, 
and  barrel  staves  will  be  converted  into  >.u;ss-slats. 

Wednesday,  September  5,  1883. — k  bright,  beautiful  day,  just  the  opposite  to  yesterday's  dreariness  and 
discomfort.  At  the  breakfast  hour  we  were  just  abreast  of  Victoria  Head,  but  at  dinner  time  we  were  far 
to  the  south  of  it.  Paradoxical  as  it  may  ap[)ear,  we  d  '"ted  southward  during  the  flood-tide  when  we  should 
have  been  moving  northward.  Light  southerly  winds  have  prevailed  all  day.  During  the  last  few  days  the 
temperature  has  been  ranging  from  +30  [— 1.1°  C]  to  4- 11  [  — ii-7°C.].  No  colder  weather  was  ever 
before  experienced  by  any  party,  at  this  season  of  the  year.  At  noon  our  position  was  in  latitude  79°  8.6' 
N. — a  drift  of  six  miles  in  two  days,  making  all  due  allowance  *br  the  distance  gained  by  boat  last  evening. 


TUE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


445 


Jens  amused  himself,  as  well  as  the  party,  by  firing  shot  after  shot  at  a  small  seal  which  did  not  even  apijear 
frightened  at  the  noise  going  on  around  it.  I  placed  our  flag  on  one  of  the  long  masts  and  planted  it  firmly  in 
the  large  knoll  which  rises  from  the  center  of  our  small  palcocrystic  floe.  If  friends  are  in  our  vicinity  they 
cannot  help  seeing  this  conspicuous  signal.  The  conduct  of  the  men  since  we  have  l)een  in  this  unfortunate 
plight  is  above  all  praise  and  compliment.  They  are  to  be  highly  commended  fur  their  unselfislmess,  and 
for  having  the  happy  faculty  of  making  the  best  of  everything,  even  under  the  most  trying  circumstances. 
When  we  were  first  imprisoned  in  this  treacherous  pack,  I  had  expected  to  hear  repinings  and  lamentations 
without  end,  but,  to  my  surprise,  matters  are  just  the  contrary.  Certainly  an  ill-temi)ered  remark  may 
occasionally  be  heard,  but  where  will  we  find  any  large  party  like  ours  without  blemish?  (iood-natured 
chaff,  hearty,  ringing  laughter,  and  snatches  of  song  may  be  heard  at  almost  any  time  from  this  irrepressible 
little  band.  Most  bodies  of  men  placed  in  these  circumstances  would  have  become  discouraged  and 
depressed,  and  probably  would  have  lost  all  interest  even  in  matters  pertaining  to  the  saving  of  their  lives. 

Thursday,  September  6,  1883. — Cloudy  weather  during  the  morning,  with  fresh  southwest  winiis  jjrevail- 
ing.  At  2  p.  m.  snow  began  falling,  and  the  wind  changeil  direction  to  the  northwest,  and  increased  in 
velocity  almost  to  a  gale.  A  small  water  space  opened  during  the  night,  but  as  it  did  not  extend  more  than 
three  hundred  yards  [274'"]  from  our  position,  and  as  nothing  could  be  gained  by  moving  that  distance,  I 
did  not  disturb  Lieutenant  Greely,  who  at  the  time  was  sleeping.  The  Greenland  coast,  east  of  Cairn  Point, 
was  visible,  owing  to  the  very  clear  atmosphere,  at  i  a.  m.  The  sun  appeared  for  a  few  hours  this  morning, 
and  under  its  genial  influence  the  temperature  rose  to  + 13.2  [  —  10.4°  C.]. 

Latitude  at  noon  was  79°  6.9' — a  gain  of  1.7  miles  since  12  o'clock  yesterday.  A  very  opportune  issue 
of  rum  was  made  this  evening,  when  all  were  feeling  the  effects  of  the  exposures  and  discomforts  to  which 
we  have  been  subjected  since  leaving  Fort  Conger,  Although  the  (juantity  issued  was  small,  a  stimulating 
effect  was  neveitheless  produced,  and  many  attempts  at  singing  were  made  by  the  lovers  of  the  "ardent." 
Long  was  fortunate  enough  to  shoot  a  small  seal  this  morning.  The  large  iceberg  which  has  been  our 
constant  companion  for  several  days,  and  in  which  as  a  protector  we  had  all  confidence,  is  now  likely  to 
prove  itself  a  treacherous  friend.  It  is  bearing  down  on  our  floe  and  may  grind  it  to  powder  with  its 
resistless  force.  The  chances  are,  however,  that  it  will  strike  one  side  of  our  small  floe  and  simply  revolve 
it  without  injury  to  us.  We  are  ready  to  move  at  any  moment.  Shelters  have  been  erected  over  the  boats 
with  the  spare  sails  and  the  "tepee"  canvas. 

Fiiday,  September  7,  1883. — A  northeast  gale  accompanied  by  snow  was  in  progress  from  midnight 
until  I  p.  m.  The  sky  then  cleared  and  the  sun  shone  brightly  during  the  remainder  of  the  day.  The 
gale  of  this  morning  has  accelerated  our  drift  greatly,  and  at  the  same  time  inclined  us  towards  die  land. 
We  passed  abreast  of  Cape  Albert  at  a  distance  of  not  more  than  four  miles,  but  no  means  of  escape 
presented  itself  At  noon  we  were  in  latitude  79°  0.6',  a  drift  of  six  and  tliree-tenths  miles  tluring  the  last 
twenty-four  hours.  ^ 

I  was  somewhat  surprised  this  morning  when  on  looking  at  the  original  recoril,  and  tracing  it  back  to 
August  30,  to  find  the  barometer  at  that  date  standing  at  30.17  [766.30"""!.  To-day  it  indicates  29.22 
[742.17"'"'],  a  fall  of  nearly  an  inch  [about  25"'"']  in  eight  days.  Since  i  a.  m.,  however,  it  has  been  rising 
slowly  and  steadity. 

Since  we  have  occupied  this  floe,  fresh  water  from  the  surface  pools  has  been  obtained  in  sufficient 
quantities  to  supply  all  our  wants  in  that  direction,  but  to-day  the  last  of  it  was  used  or  congealed,  and  the 
melting  of  ice  to  furnish  us  with  water  was  resorted  to.  At  a  late  hour  this  evening,  however,  another  pool 
was  found  on  an  adjoining  floe,  which  for  the  present  will  obviate  the  lavish  use  of  fuel  in  melting  ice.  Our 
southerly  drift  appears  to  have  been  arrested  since  yesterday  noon.  The  reason  assigned  is  that  the  pack 
south  of  our  floe  rests  firmly  against  the  land,  where  it  was  driven  by  the  gale  this  morning,  and  that  the 
intervening  ice  is  so  compactly  pressed  that  no  further  movement  is  possible.  The  land  near  Cocked  Hat 
Island  is  evidently  about  fourteen  miles  away.  I''rom  five  to  six  o'clock  this  evening  the  thermometer  fell 
ten  degrees  [5.6°  C.j,  and  at  the  end  of  the  following  hour  it  had  fallen  four  ilegrees  |2.j"C.|  more. 

Saturday,  September  8,  1883. — .\  beautiful  morning,  bright,  clear,  and  cahn.  Stars  were  seen  last  night 
for  the  first  time  since  last  spring.  The  light  was  very  dim  and  uncertain  at  midnight.  Connell  encountered 
a  walrus  sporting  in  a  pool  not  far  from  camp,  and  fired  eight  shots  into  him  without  effect.  It  appears  that 
t!ie  Springfield  bullet  cannot  penetrate  their  armor-like  hide.  Connell  says  that  the  balls  glanced  oft"  his 
skull  as  they  would  have  done  had  they  been  fired  against  the  rounded  surface  of  a  rock.  'I'he  temperature 
fell  last  night  to  —0.8°  [—18.2°  C],  something  quite  unknown  in  these  regions  at  this  period  of  the  year. 


I 


446 


THE  LADV  I'ltANKLlN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I  !- 


">     :' 


It  a 


;!i 


Our  latitude  is  just  the  same  as  yesterday.  This  fact  confirms  the  oi)inion  which  I  expressed  yesterday 
in  my  notes  that  the  pack  south  of  us  rested  against  the  land  in  the  vicinity  of  Cocked  Hat  Island,  thus  pre- 
venting any  further  drift  in  that  direction.  Ice  is  forming  rapidly  about  us;  the  pools  are  all  covered,  and 
the  floes  will  soon  be  cemented  together  so  firmly  as  to  render  traveling  feasible.  By  the  direction  of  Lieu- 
tenant Greely  I  had  the  sledges  lashed  together.  There  are  three  in  number — the  large  twelve-man  sledge 
brought  from  Fort  Conger,  and  the  two  small  ones  just  constructe '  by  Cross  and  Elisor. 

Lieutenant  Greely  says  he  will  abanilon  the  /.aify  Greely  and  the  Valorous,  and,  taking  the  other  boats, 
with  sledges  and  supjilies,  endeavor  to  reach  the  land  in  the  vicinity  of  Cocked  Hat  Island.  It  is  his  inten- 
tion, weather  permitting,  to  start  as  early  as  day  after  to-morrow  on  this  hazardous  and  diflicult  journey, 

I  am  going  out  to-morrow  with  Christiansen  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  a  route  for  the  sledges  through 
the  broken  and  ruggi;d  surface  of  the  i)ack  towards  land  and — safety.  I  expect  this  duty  to  be  of  rather  a 
dangerous  nature,  considering  the  treacherous  condition  of  the  pack,  but  with  faithful  Christiansen  as  a 
companion  and  counselor,  I  fear  nothing.  An  issue  of  rum  was  a  welcome  addition  to  our  evening  rations. 
The  ice  in  Buchanan  Strait  does  not  appear  to  have  broken  up  this  year.  If  we  are  not  deceived  in  our 
opinion  in  this  matter,  it  is  no  wonder  to  us  now — it  is  no  longer  a  mystery — why  the  relief  ship  did  not 
reach  us  in  August.  This  sort  of  ice  would  iireclude  the  advance  of  any  vessel,  no  matter  what  her  capa- 
bilities were  for  ice  navigation.  Standing  on  the  summit  of  a  lofty  iceberg,  we  had  an  excellent  view  of  the 
ice-pack  to  the  south,  and,  as  a  result  of  our  observations,  concluded  that  the  floes  in  the  direction  of  Cocked 
Hat  Island  offered  greater  facilities  for  traveling  than  those  toward  Cape  Sabine. 

A  rough  estimate  of  our  constant  weights  place  them  at  about  6,000  pounds.  This  includes  provisions 
and  ammunition,  as  well  as  those  articles  of  our  equipment  designated  as  "constant." 

SuHiiay,  September  9,  1883 — Nothing  has  been  done  to-day  owing  to  the  wretched  weather.  I  did  not 
even  start  out  as  contemplated  to  select  a  road,  on  account  of  the  hazy  atmosphere  which  concealed  the 
coast  from  view.  The  temperature  is  ranging  from  -|-  17  [  —  8.3°  C]  to  +  jo  [  —  12.2°  C]  and  the  barometer 
has  an  upward  tendency.  Fresh  northwest  winds  prevail,  accompanied  by  snow.  The  large  sledge  was 
completed  to-day.  Dense  water-clouds  were  observed  over  and  southwest  of  Cape  Camperdown.  This  fact 
leads  us  to  believe  that  we  were  in  error  after  all  regarding  the  breaking  out  of  the  ice  in  Buchanan  Straits. 

Lieutenant  Greely  again  held  a  consultation  with  the  same  commissioned  and  non-commissioned  officers 
as  before,  and  as  a  result  of  this  meeting  he  decided  to  start  to-morrow  morning.  The  principal  reason  for 
calling  us  together  is  to  get  our  ideas  and  opinions  generally,  but  more  particularly  with  reference  to  the 
details  of  loading  the  sledges  and  handling  the  boats. 

Monday,  September  10,  1883. — The  Lady  Greely  and  the  Valorous  were  dismantled  and  abandoned.  A 
brief  record  of  the  events  of  our  unparalleled  retreat  to  this  place  was  deposited  in  each.  The  mainmast 
of  the  Valorous  w  us  placed  in  position,  and  from  its  top  a  signal  flag  was  left  fluttering  in  the  wind  to  attract 
the  attention  of  relief  vessels  should  they  pass  in  this  vicinity. 

Lieutenant  Greely  conceived  the  idea  of  taking  packs  and  endeavoring  to  reach  Cape  Sabine  by  travel- 
ing over  the  floe.  He  selected  Jens  (Eskimo)  and  myself  to  accompany  him  on  this  perilous  undertaking, 
but  before  we  were  ready  to  depart  the  other  officers  came  forward  with  objections  to  the  proposed  trip,  on 
the  ground  that  the  commanding  officer  should  always  remain  with  his  party;  they  however  were  willing, 
mdividually,  to  undertake  the  journey,  but  protested  against  the  departure  of  the  commanding  officer.  The 
enterprise  was  finally  abandoned  as  impracticable  under  the  circumstances. 

Owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of  the  weather  we  did  not  start  until  1.45  p.  m.  I  went  ahead  and  selected 
a  route  through  the  hummocks,  turning  back  after  having  traversed  about  one  mile  to  assist  with  the  sledge. 
The  small  ice-l)oat  Beaumont  and  about  700  pounds  of  stores  were  taken  on  the  large  sledge  at  the  first 
load.  Following  this  came  the  two  small  sledges,  four  and  six  man  respectively,  at  their  drag-ropes.  Before 
proceeding  far  both  these  sledges  broke  down  although  their  loads  were  comparatively  light.  After  hauling 
the  first  sledge  about  a  mile,  the  load  was  deposited  on  the  floe  and  the  party  went  back  for  the  whale-boat 
Nanvhal  and  a  few  articles  of  baggage.  The  thirtl  and  last  load  with  the  large  sledge  comi)rised  the  re- 
mainder of  our  property,  including  oars,  nmnumition,  arms,  and  provisions.  The  weights  of  the  three  loads 
iiauled  on  the  large  sledge  is  as  follows:  F'irst  load,  1,400  pounds;  second,  2,000  pounds;  and  the  third, 
1,600  pounds.  The  small  sledges  were  repaired  by  Cross  and  Elison  after  some  difficulty,  but  they  are  still 
of  doubtful  benefit  to  us. 

The  last  load  reached  camp  at  7.15  p.m.  We  traveleil  five  miles,  but  made  good  only  one.  The 
snow  is  very  deep,  and,  as  predicted  several  days  ago,  the  labor  of  hauling  the  sledge  through  it  is  very 


Lh^asass 


M««i»*sai»*— ^"™ 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  JJAV  KXI'EDITION. 


447 


severe.  One  of  the  runners  of  the  large  sledge  broke  through  the  ice,  but  tlie  sledge  was  savei'  without 
serious  difficulty.  Officers  and  men  worked  alike,  and  without  distinction,  in  the  drag-mitcs.  Rum  was 
issued  after  entering  camp. 

Tiirsiiiiy,  Stptcinbcr  ii,  1883. — The  morning  was  stormy,  and  light  snow  has  failLMi  since  yesterday. 
Notwithstanding  the  disagreeable  weather,  we  started  out  with  the  first  load  at  8.40  a.  m.  1  again  advanced 
ahea<)  of  the  party  to  select  and  prepare  a  road  for  the  heavily-laden  sledge. 

Excessive  thirst  attends,  and  very  naturally,  the  severe  labors  of  the  weary  sledgers,  but  numerous  pools 
are  to  be  found  at  this  season  of  the  year  on  paleocrystic  tloes,  over  which  we  fre(iuently  cross.  At  these 
pools  the  party  halt  and  partake  of  their  refreshing  waters,  ^^'ere  it  not  for  these  miniature  lakes  tt)  provide 
us  with  fresh  water  while  traveling  the  sufferings  of  the  party  from  ti)irst  would  be  intense.  Three  trips 
were  made  by  the  large  sledge  and  about  i  J^  miles  were  gained.  A  heavy  snow-storm  setting  in  warned  us 
that  it  was  useless  to  push  farther  to-day.  We  camped  on  a  j)aleocrystic  floe  of  great  extent.  \\.  its  southern 
limit  is  a  large  grounded  iceberg,  which  Lieutenant  (Ireely  directed  me  to  visit  with  the  view  of  noting  the 
conditions  of  traveling  in  that  direction.  Dr.  Pavy  accompanied  me,  by  consent  of  Lieutenant  ( Ireely. 
Climbing  to  the  summit  of  the  berg,  we  could  see  a  great  expanse  of  new  ice  spread  out  before  us,  studdeil 
here  and  there  with  small  rubble.  This  ice  was  not  strong  enough  to  bear  the  weight  of  our  sledges,  and 
it  was,  in  consequence,  pronounced  impracticable  for  our  purpose. 

While  standing  on  the  berg  and  discussing  the  chances  and  probabilities  of  our  escape  from  the  pack, 
a  school  of  walrus  came  to  the  surface,  breaking  the  ice  with  their  heads,  and  after  making  the  air  hideous 
with  their  discordant  bellowing,  disappeared  from  view. 

We  saw  the  tracks  of  a  fox  not  far  from  the  camp,  leading  in  an  easterly  direction.  While  returning 
from  our  visit  to  the  berg  we  heard  the  barking  of  a  dog,  which  was  repeated  twice,  but,  to  our  great  disap- 
pointment, saw  nothing.     The  temperature  ranges  from  -f- 14  [— 10.0°  C]  to  +17  [—  8.3°  C'.|. 

It  is  my  opinion  that  nothing  can  be  done  at  present  except  to  move  to  the  edge  of  the  floe  and  there 
await  the  action  of  the  spring  tides,  or  for  the  new  ice  to  strengthen  sufficiently  to  enable  us  to  travel  over 
it  with  our  loaded  sledges.  On  reporting  having  heard  a  dog  bark,  a  gun  was  fired  several  times,  and  the 
flag,  placed  on  the  longest  pole,  was  planted  on  the  tallest  of  the  dome-shaped  ice  formations  near  camp. 
A  quantity  of  the  matches  having  been  left  at  the  place  where  we  aljandoned  the  boats.  Cross  and  Frederick 
volunteered  to  go  back  for  them  this  evening. 

Lieutenant  Greely  again  held  a  consultation  with  the  officers.  Rice,  and  myself,  for  the  jiurpose  of 
eliciting  our  views  regarding  the  most  prudent  course  to  pursue.  The  general  wish  is  to  go  to  the  berg  on 
the  south  side  of  this  floe  and  there  await  the  .action  of  the  spring  tides,  which  occur  in  a  few  days.  If 
the  ice  withstands  the  effects  of  the  tides,  it  will  certainly  be  strong  enough  to  travel  over,  but  should  it 
be  broken,  then  an  opportunity  may  present  itself  for  us  to  escape  to  land  in  our  two  boats.  Lieutenant 
Greely  favors  a  plan  of  traveling  to  the  southeast  by  a  series  of  floes  which  he  thinks  extends  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  has  directed  Rice  to  make  a  reconnaissance  of  eight  hours'  duration  in  that  direction  to-morrow. 
We  will  not  move  to-morrow — at  least  not  in  the  morning.     Snow  ceased  falling  at  i  p.  m. 

Wcducsday,  September  12,  1883. — Cloudy  weather,  light  northeast  winds,  and  a  temperature  of  +17 
[— 8.3°  C],  Minimum  recorded  last  night,  +9  [— i2.8°C.].  Rice  started  out  towards  the  southeast  to 
look  for  a  road  at  8.15  a.  m.  He  was  accompanied  by  Jens  and  Dr.  Pavy.  They  returned  soon  after  noon, 
reporting  the  traveling  in  that  direction  to  be  good.  We  at  once  began  preparations  for  a  move,  and  in  a 
short  time  everything  was  ready  for  the  journey. 

On  the  recommendations  of  the  officers,  together  with  those  of  Rice  and  myself,  the  commanding 
officer  ordered  the  whale-boat  to  be  abandoned.  The  wisdom  of  this  action  is  obvious,  'i'he  sledge  has 
been  broken  and  is  daily  growing  weaker  under  the  weight  of  the  whale-boat,  which  is  29  feet  [8.8"']  in 
length.  The  sledge  is  not  quite  fourteen  feet  [4.2'"|  in  length,  and  it  would  be  broken  in  pieces  in  anotlier 
day.  Such  a  calamity  would  prove  a  fatal  blow  to  the  party.  Without  a  sledge  we  are  helpless.  In  the 
boat  a  record  of  our  fortunes  and  misfortunes  was  deposited,  and  a  signal  flag  nailed  to  an  oar,  placed  in 
an  upright  position,  was  left  flying  over  it.  After  traveling  two  miles  we  reacJieii  the  edge  of  the  floe,  where 
our  first  load  was  depo  ited,  and  the  other  was  afterwards  brought  up  to  it.  A  wide  crack  at  the  edge  of 
this  floe  does  not  augur  well  for  to-morrow's  work.  A  bear  track  was  seen  not  far  from  our  present  camp, 
and  Jens  saw  narwhals,  seals,  and  walruses  in  our  immediate  vicinity,  but  he  was  not  enabled  to  get  a  shot 
at  them.  A  large  lake  of  fresh  water  was  foinid  on  this  floe  near  the  camp.  Another  -ouncil  was  called 
this  evening,  in  which  the  officers,  Rice,  and  myself  were  represented.  A  guard  was  di  tailed  to  watch  for 
the  bear,  which  is  liable  to  visit  us  at  any  time.     Latitude  78°' 58'  9"  north. 


: 

;|| 

,, 

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.-  ii 

' 

448 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXFKDITION. 


Tlnosdijy,  SifUmlh.-  13,  1883. — The  morning  was  briglit  and  beautiful,  but  the  afternoon  was  cloudy. 
Minimum  temperature,  +17.0  [—8.3°  (.".1.  With  Jens  as  a  companion,  I  started  out  in  advance  of  the 
sledge  to  select  a  route  through  the  hummocks.  We  saw  several  walrus  and  a  few  narwhals  blowing  in  a 
pool  which  \vc  i)assed.  We  also  saw  the  bear's  tracks  again.  They  indicated  by  their  freshness  that  his 
bearship  had  been  prowling  near  the  camp  last  night,  evidently  attracted  by  the  odor  arising  from  the  food 
being  preparetl  by  the  cooks.  The  first  load  started  at  7.55  a.  m.  and  advanced  steadily  for  two  hours.nvhen 
it  was  unloaded,  and  the  party  returned  for  the  second.  Three  loads  were  rerjuired  to  convey  all  our  bag- 
gage, boat,  &c.,  the  last  one  arriving  in  camp  at  3.35  p.  m.  Estimated  distance  traveled,  7  miles ;  made 
good,  i^  miles.     Meridian  observation  places  our  latitude  at  79°  56'  00"  north. 

The  new  ice  is  very  thin  and  dangerous ;  small  rubble  is  scattereil  over  the  surface  which  fiicilitates 
rather  than  retards  the  progress  of  the  sledge.  Once  the  left  runner  broke  through  the  floe,  but  a  hearty 
cheer  from  Rice,  who  was  behind  guiding  the  sledge,  caused  all  who  were  in  the  drag-ropes  to  plunge  sud- 
denly forward,  and  with  one  great  effort  the  load  was  safely  landed  on  firm  ice.  In  transferring  a  few 
articles  across  the  crack  mentioned  yesterday,  Uender  made  a  misstep  and  fell  through  the  ice,  wetting  him- 
self to  the  waist. 

Friday,  Scplcmhr  14,  1883. — While  on  guartl  last  night  (lardiner  saw  a  fox  prowling  about  camp  which 
was  evidently  anxious  to  ascertain  the  quality  of  our  bacon.  Jens  and  myself  again  went  in  advance  of  the 
first  load  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  the  best  possible  route  through  the  broken  pack.  We  were  directed 
by  Lieutenant  Greely  to  take  the  best  route  to  land,  no  matter  at  what  point  we  would  touch  it;  but  if  any 
two  routes  were  etjual  in  point  of  smoothness,  to  take  the  more  easterly  of  the  two,  w  hich  would  enable  us 
to  reach  the  shore  in  the  vicinity  of  Cocked  Hat  Island. 

The  roar  of  the  moving  and  grinding  pack  to  the  east  of  us,  in  the  axis  of  the  channel,  is  something  so 
terrible — so  awe  inspiring — that  even  the  bravest  among  us  cannot  .ij)pear  unconcerned  when  it  is  heard. 
To  add  color  to  the  scene  of  desolation  on  this  floe,  with  the  heaving  and  convulsive  masses  of  ice  abc'Ut  us, 
dark,  portentous  clouds  are  hanging  over  the  horizon  surrounding  us,  indicating  that  our  floe  is  not  con- 
nected with  the  land,  as  we  had  deluded  ourselves  into  believing,  but  is  drifting  helplessly  in  the  open  sea; 
its  movements  subject  to  tlie  caprices  of  the  winds  and  currents.  The  small  sledge  broke  down  while  cross- 
ing a  band  of  rubble-ice,  and  jjroved  worthless  to  us  the  rest  of  the  day.  This  necessitated  an  extra  trij) 
with  the  large  sledge.  Made  good  one  and  one-half  miles.  Walrus  were  observed  during  the  day.  Hy  9 
p.  m.  we  had  drifted  for  a  considerable  distance  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  into  Kane  Sea,  in  conse(iuence 
of  a  southerly  gale  which  arose  just  before  we  reached  camp  with  the  last  load  this  evening.  In  the  last 
few  hours  we  liave  lost  more  than  twice  the  distance  that  we  had  gained  by  the  severe  toil  of  the  last  five  days. 
Saturday,  September  15,  1883. — On  rising  this  morning  we  learned  that  we  were  still  drifting,  under  the 
influence  of  the  gale,  in  a  northeasterly  direction.  Cape  Camperdown  is  nearly  north  of  us  now.  Israel's 
observations  at  noon  yesterday  placed  us  in  latitude  78°  55'  north,  a  gain  of  1.9  miles  in  actual  travel  for 
tiiat  day.  To-day  we  are  in  latitude  79°  01.8'  north;  a  loss  of  nearly  seven  miles  of  our  dearly-earned 
ground.  The  severe  labor  to  which  we  have  been  subjected  in  hauling  the  sledges  over  these  almost  inter- 
minable ice-fields  has  been  for  nought.  We  are  miles  farther  away  from  land  than  we  were  before,  and 
with  no  immediate  prospect  of  regaining  what  we  have  lost!  There  is  open  water  all  along  the  coast  from 
Cape  Sabine  to  Allman  I?ay.  It  is  the  opinion  of  many  that  if  we  had  followed  our  instructions  closely,  by 
confining  our  line  of  retreat  to  the  shore,  we  would  now  be  safe  with  our  four  boats  in  that  large  expanse  of 
water,  liut  this  of  course  is  only  conjecturing,  for,  on  the  other  hand,  we  might  say  that  if  we  had  entered 
Allman  Hay  for  jirotection,  in  all  probability  our  boats  would  now  be  frozen  in  there  for  the  winter,  and  our 
situation  equally  as  deplorable  as  the  present. 

The  gale  subsided  at  4  p.  m.,  and  our  position,  by  bearings,  was  at  once  determined  by  Israel.  We  are 
directly  north  of  Littleton  Island,  and  seventeen  miles  from  Cocked  Mat  Island;  consequently  have  lost 
about  fifteen  miles.  The  meat  ration  has  been  reduced  from  sixteen  to  twelve  ounces.  The  temperature  is 
quite  high. 

Sunday,  Se/>tem/>er  16,  1883. — After  the  influence  of  the  departing  gale  had  ceased  to  be  felt,  the  direc- 
tion of  our  drill  changed  to  southerly.  We  are  now  moving  along  in  the  midst  of  the  polar  pack,  with  the 
currents,  which  have  a  strong  southerly  tendency  at  this  place. 

At  noon  we  were  in  latitude  79°  00'  07"  N. — a  tlrift  of  i.i  miles  since  yesterday,  and  that  in  opposition 
to  adverse  winds  and  tides.  We  are  about  thirty  miles  from  Cairn  Point,  and  directly  north  of  Littleton 
Island.  The  drift  during  the  continuance  of  the  gale  was  about  twelve  miles,  instead  of  fifteen,  as  stated  in 
my  journal  yesterday. 


^mvmKnrs^ 


TUK  LADY  FltANKLiN  IJAY  EXPEDITION. 


449 


Rice  and  Jens  went  out  this  morning  to  inspei  t  the  ice,  and  on  rtturning  reported  it  impracticable  for 
sledging  just  at  present. 

Another  council  was  called  by  Lieutenant  ('reely  this  evening  for  discussing  oui  situation.  All  those 
who  had  previously  attended  were  jiresent  on  this  occasion.  Dr.  Pavy  insisted  that  the  only  possible  method 
of  escape  was  to  push  forward  toCai)e  Sabine  at  onceover  the  broken  pack.  The  others  (including  myself) 
recommended  that  no  move  be  made  just  at  present,  but  that  we  wait  until  after  the  spring  tides — which  are 
now  at  their  highest — and  until  the  Hoe,  on  which  we  are  now  living,  takes  some  definite  direction.  Lieu- 
tenant Clreely  expressed  himself  as  willing  to  abandon  the  pendulum  wlienever  any  member  of  the  party 
should  announce  himself  dissatisfied  with  liaiiling  it.  In  this  no  on^  would  concur,  but  all  thought  that  it 
should  be  kept  as  long  as  possible. 

I  took  an  inventory  of  the  jirovisions  and  found  that  full  rations  for  forty  days  remained  in  store.  The 
hunters  were  out  all  day  on  the  ice  in  search  for  game.  They  report  having  seen  bear  tracks,  and  tho»  a 
small  seal  was  observed  in  a  pool  not  far  from  camp.  Christiansen  shot  a  large  seal  this  evening  which  will 
net  us  about  125  pounds  of  meat.  A  lead  passing  not  far  from  our  floe,  and  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
in  width,  extends  two  miles  south  of  us.  Its  northern  limit  cannot  be  seen.  Our  floe  is  slowly  but  gradually 
settling  back  to  the  southwest — its  former  position — anil  at  the  same  time  it  is  revolving  in  the  direction 
opjiosite  to  the  movements  of  the  sun.  Hereafter  no  member  of  the  party  will  be  allowed  to  know  the 
result  of  Israel's  observations.  Lieutenant  Greely  is  of  the  opinion  that  the  men  would  become  discouraged 
if  they  knew  that  they  were  drifting  adversely,  and  has  given  Israel  orders  to  impart  no  information  to  any 
member  of  the  party  relative  to  our  actual  position,  except  to  the  commanding  officer. 

Monday,  September  17,  1C83. — Christiansen  shot  another  small  seal  this  morning.  Our  floe  revolved  in 
such  a  manner  during  the  night  that  we  are  now  facing  in  a  direction  just  opposite  to  that  in  which  we  were 
facing  last  evening;  consequently  the  trail  made  by  us  through  tiie  s:iow  on  entering  this  camp  leads  towards 
Cocked  Hat  Island  instead  of  the  north,  as  it  did  yesterday.  Minimum  temperature  last  night  was  +2.5 
[  —  16.4°  C.J.  Our  position  at  noon  was  in  latitude  78°  56'  north.  During  the  morning  Rice  and  myself 
took  an  inventory  of  our  rations  and  effects,  and  estimated  their  combined  weight  at  5,737  pounds.  Several 
articles,  and  in  fact  all  that  we  could  spare,  such  as  telescopes,  shot-guns,  tin-ware,  &c,  were  eliminated  from 
our  equipment,  and  abandoned  on  the  floe. 

We  started  with  our  sledges  at  i  p.  m.,  as  usual.  I  went  ahead  to  prepare  a  road  for  their  advance. 
The  last  load  was  not  brought  into  camp  until  very  late.  A  large  crack  in  the  floe  at  the  camping  place 
warned  us  that  it  would  not  be  prudent  to  leave  our  load  of  stores  on  the  opposite  side  while  we  went  back 
after  the  others,  so  they  were  deposited  on  the  floe  on  the  same  side  as  our  last  camp.  After  hauling  up 
the  last  load,  however,  we  carried  everything  across  the  crack  and  camped  on  the  southern  side.  In  the 
event  of  the  place  opening  during  the  night,  we  will  not  be  inconvenienced  by  having  to  cross  with  our 
boat.  The  two  floes  met  with  such  force  at  this  point  that  abrasion  of  their  sides  has  heaped  for  a  mile 
long  and  six  feet  [i.8"']  high  a  ridge  of  pulverized  ice.  The  traveling  has  been  very  good,  considering  the 
late  storm,  which  broke  the  pack  badly. 

After  te.i  hours  of  exhaustive  physical  strain  (we  did  not  retire  until  1 1  p.  m.),  it  is  refreshing,  indeed, 
to  lie  down  in  our  sleeping-bags — notwithstanding  their  dampness — and  stretch  our  weary  limbs.  As  the 
bags  are  spread  on  the  ice  with  only  one  thickness  of  canvas  underneath  them,  our  comfort  can  well  be 
imagined.  This  has  been  the  brightest  and  most  comfortable  day  that  we  have  experienced  since  leaving 
Fort  Conger. 

Tuesday,  September  18,  1883. — We  turned  out  of  our  bags  at  an  early  hour  with  the  intention  of  making 
a  desperate  effort  to  reach  the  land,  which  now  appears  to  be  not  far  away.  We  drifted  slightly  to  the  south 
and  east  during  the  night.  The  crack  over  which  we  had  passed  last  evening  was  found  this  morning  to  have 
opened  considerably,  and  walrus  were  sporting  in  the  area  of  water  thus  formed.  Minimum  temperature 
during  the  night  was  -fg  [—  12.  8°  C.]. 

We  traveled  over  a  smooth  floe  for  about  one  mile,  making  rapid  progress,  owing  to  the  absence  of 
snow  on  its  surface.  At  this  spot  we  found  a  wide  lane  of  water  with  much  brash  ice  drifting  about,  which 
precluded  our  crossing  without  the  aid  of  the  boat.  Our  supplies  were  all  brought  to  this  spot,  and  the  boat  then 
launched.  They  were  then  ferried  over  the  lane  and  placed  safely  on  the  opjjosite  floe.  We  soon  discovered 
that  the  pack  had  disintegrated,  and  that  the  small  floes  were  being  rapidly  drifted  about  by  the  eddying 
currents.  We  transferred  from  one  floe  to  another  as  quickly  as  we  were  able,  each  man  retaining  his  self- 
possession,  and  working  with  desperation,  and  for  safety.  I  cannot  understand  how  it  is  that  we  were  not 
H.  Mis.  ;{0.T 29 


.       TUK  L\I)Y  FUANKLIN  IJAY  KXPEDITION. 

separated,  or  thai  iiur  boat  was  not  (rushed  in  that  grinding  mass.  It  is  certainly  miraculous  that  we 
csiapcd  alive.  From  8  a.  m.  until  6  p.  m.  we  havi-  worked  in  this  manner,  expecting  momentarily  that  our 
efTurls,  through  no  fault  of  our  own,  would  terminate  fatally.  Latitude  at  noon  was  78°5o',  N.  While  cross- 
ing a  dangerous  place  Rice  missed  his  footing  and  fell  head  foremost  into  the  water.  Dry  clothing  being 
furnished  jiim,  a  change  of  garments  was  effected  there  on  the  floe,  in  the  low  temperature  and  without 
protection  from  the  winds. 

At  6.30  p.  m.  we  reached  a  large  circular  floe  about  one  mile  in  diameter,  and  halting  on  its  edge  for 
a  few  minutes  to  obtain  much  needed  rest;  the  cooks  hastened  to  prepare  sujjper  in  the  interval.  I  had 
previously  been  sent  ahead  by  Lieutenant  dreely  to  make  an  examination  of  the  floe  and  the  ice  intervening 
between  us  and  land.  I  reported,  on  my  return,  that  a  lane  of  water  on  the  ojjposite  side  of  the  floe 
evidently  extended  to  the  shore,  which  was  j)robal)ly  not  more  than  three  miles  away,  and  which  we  could 
most  likely  reach  by  boat.  I  had  examined  the  land  carefully  for  some  sign  of  trii)ods,  signal  flags,  cairns, 
or  something  that  would  tell  us  that  our  friends  had  visited  this  spot  in  search  of  us,  but  nothing  was  seen. 
We  crossed  the  floe  to  the  water's  edge,  the  last  load  arriving  at  9  p.  m.,  thus  making  thirteen  hours  of 
severe  labor  in  the  drag-ropes.  We  bivouacked  on  the  floe,  spreading  our  bags  on  the  uneven  surface  of  the 
ice,  for  a  few  hours'  rest.  The  shelters  were  not  put  up,  as  it  was  thought  to  be  unnecessary  for  our  brief 
stay  here.  We  must  make  an  early  start  in  the  morning.  We  have  drifted  considerably  towards  the  east 
to-ilay  with  the  current,  and  Capo  Isabella,  with  the  adjacent  coast,  has  been  opened  up  to  view.  I  think 
the  land  is  within  our  grasp  at  an  early  hour  to-morrow,  if  we  do  not  drift  too  far  into  the  sound  during  the 
night. 

iVfiiiiesiiiiy,  September  19,  1883. — Alas!  we  are  again  doomed  to  a  most  bitter  disappointment.  Mis- 
fortune and  disaster,  hand  in  hand,  have  accompanied  us  along  the  entire  line  of  this  retreat,  and  were  we 
at  all  superstitious,  we  could  readily  believe  that  the  end  of  our  existence  is  not  far  off.  The  high  hopes  of 
escape  whicii  we  entertained  last  evening  have  all  been  dashed  to  the  ground.  We  are  again  drifting 
helijlessly  in  Kane  Sea  under  the  influence  of  a  southeast  gale,  which  sprang  up  about  midnight,  and  drove 
us  farther  than  ever  from  land.  Not  having  erected  the  "tepee"  last  evening,  on  entering  camp  this  morn- 
ing our  bags  were  found  driven  full  of  snow,  and  saturated  with  spray  from  the  huge  waves  which  came 
dashing  against  the  southern  edge  of  the  floe.  As  nothing  could  be  done  in  the  gale,  we  spent  the  day  in 
our  sleeping-bags,  listening  to  the  roar  of  the  waves,  the  howling  winds,  and  reflecting  on  our  helpless  situa- 
tion in  this  restless  pack. 

To  our  intense  relief  the  gale  abated  at  6  p.  m.,  and  Lieutenant  Greely  at  once  called  a  council  of 
those  who  had  previously  attended.  The  general  feeling  and  wish  was  to  remain  here  until  the  floe  gets 
settled  in  some  definite  direction.  Lieutenant  Greely,  however,  advanced  views  which  differed  materially 
from  those  expressed  by  the  other  members  of  the  conference.  He  favors  an  attempt  to  reach  the  Green- 
;xnd  coast  by  abandoning  everything  except  twenty  days'  provisions,  the  records,  the  boat,  and  sledge. 
Walrus  were  seen  in  an  open  space  near  us  to-day;  seals  were  also  seen,  but  none  were  shot.  The  spaces 
or  pools  about  us  are  very  extensive. 

Thursday,  September  20,  1883.— Cloudy  and  foggy  weather,  together  with  fresh  northerly  winds  and  a 
low  temperature,  are  about  as  disagreeable  as  anything  that  could  well  be  imagined.  Nothing  but  water 
and  debris  ice  in  sight  i.ow.  To  be  sure,  we  cannot  see  far  owing  to  the  heavy  snow-storm  which  has 
prevailed  during  the  evening,  but  this  ice  condition  is  most  likely  the  same  everywhere.  Could  anything 
be  more  wretched  than  having  all  these  troubles  come  at  once?  We  are  certainly  bearing  burdens  of  woe 
sufficient  to  crush  men  of  ordinary  will-power,  but  it  will  be  found  that  the  texture  of  our  party  is  of  the 
right  sort,  and  that  adversity  in  its  worst  forms  will  have  very  little  effect  on  their  spirits. 

Christiansen  shot  a  large  "bladder-nose"  seal  this  afternoon  which  will  dress  about  two  hundred  pounds. 
The  natives  say  that  they  are  very  plentiful  at  Upernivik,  but  are  never  met  with  at  Proven.  The  same 
will  also  apply  to  the  walrus  in  those  latitudes.  The  English  stearine  is  now  being  used  for  cooking  pur- 
poses in  the  absence  of  wood.  Alcohol  is  far  superior  as  fuel,  it  being  equally  as  economical,  and  the  disa- 
greeable etifects  of  soot  are  avoided.  Bender,  who  is  suffering  with  lung  troubles,  thinks  the  irritation  due  to 
the  soot  and  gases  arising  from  using  the  stearine  lamp  in  the  small  "tepee"  where  our  meals  are  prepared. 
The  lamp  throws  off  a  great  column  of  smoke  and  soot,  which  almost  stifles  the  strongest  man  in  the  party. 
Bender  goes  to  the  boat  to  exchange  places  with  Connell,  who  has  been  ordered  to  the  "tepee."  Our  drift 
ajjpears  to  be  tending  towards  the  Greenland  coast. 


TIIK  FiADV   FKANKLIN  IJAV   KX  I'KDITIOX. 


451 


/•'rii/iiy,  Si'pkml'i)  21,  1885. — Snow  tell  iR-avily  diirinj,'  tlu-  night  and  at  intervals  li>  day.  On  fl'c  whole 
the  wcatlicr  lu's  been  wretched.  A  northwest  f^ale,  whii  li  has  been  in  i)r()nress  for  several  hours,  has  not 
tnateriailv  altered  our  position.  C»ur  sleeping-ljags,  from  the  effects  of  the  drifting  snow  which  melts  as 
soon  as  it  lodges  on  or  in  them,  are  in  the  most  wret(  he<l  < ondilion  imaginable.  We  have  been  closely 
confined  io  them  all  day  owing  to  the  inclement  weather.  Jens  shot  three  small  seals  to-day,  all  of  which 
were  secured.  His  dusky  companion  is  not  less  indefatigable  in  his  duties  as  himter,  but  he  is  less  fortunate 
in  discovering  game.  Rice  and  those  belonging  to  his  boat  crew  have  built  an  iie-house  for  protection 
against  these  raging  storms  which  sweep  mercilessly  over  this  unsheltered  tloe.  Connell  and  Ralston  are 
sutVering  greatly  with  the  flux.  In  consideration  of  his  condition  the  former  was  sent  back  to  the  boat, 
and  Salor  took  his  place  in  the  "tepee."  Ralston  has  been  placed  in  charge  of  the  ice-boat  lieaumont. 
Schneider  has  been  adding  canvas  tops  to  our  leathern  boots,  thereby  eking  out  our  scanty  supply  of  foot- 
gear to  its  fullest  extt  .t.  The  ration  of  hard  bread  has  been  reiluced  from  sixteen  to  ten  ounces  per  day, 
and  the  issue  for  this  evening  was  made  oti  that  basis.  The  weather  cleared  somewhat  towards  night,  and 
we  were  afforded  an  excellent  view  of  Cape  Sabine,  Hrevoort  Island,  and  the  adjacent  land.  There  is  a 
great  deal  of  water  visible  about  our  floe,  but  no  connecting  lead  towards  land. 

Saturday,  Scptcmhcr  22,  1883. — The  sun  appeared  for  a  short  time  this  morning,  but  was  soon  obscured 
b)  heavy  clouds  and  a  dense  fog  bank,  which  drifted  across  his  disk.  At  an  early  hour  this  morning  liender 
reported  having  seen  tb.e  mast  of  one  of  our  abandoned  '..oats,  with  the  signal  flag  still  attachcl,  at  a  distance 
iii  not  more  than  two  miles  west  of  our  position.  Lieutenant  dreely  at  once  directed  I'avy,  Rice,  (lardiner, 
Salor,  Linn,  Schneider,  Christiansen,  Jens,  and  myself  to  put  off  in  the  ice-boat  and  attempt  to  reach  it,  and 
bring  it  back  to  camp.  We  crossed  a  lane  about  half  a  mile  wide,  and  leaving  the  boat  in  the  ( harge  of 
the  others,  Rice,  Jens,  and  myself  went  across  the  floe  in  the  direction  of  the  whale-boat  whicli  we  ha<l  aban- 
doned and  which  we  thought  w.is  ere  this  in  Haftin  Hay.  When  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  boat  we 
were  abruptly  stopped  by  a  lane  of  water  and  sludge  ice  which  precluded  our  advance.  The  sludge  woulil 
not  bear  our  weight,  and  a  boat  could  not  be  pushed  through  it.  It  is  formed  by  the  abrasion  and  wearing  of 
the  grinding  floes,  and  is  a  very  serious  obstacle  to  the  navigation  of  these  waters  by  small  boats.  We 
examined  carefully  for  some  opening  which  would  admit  of  our  passing  through,  but  none  being  found  the 
enterprise  was  abandoned. 

We  transferred  the  "tepee"  to  a  snow-bank  for  greater  comfort.  The  snow  is  warmer  than  the  ice,  and 
will  not  melt  underneath  us  so  quickly,  or  rather  the  body  of  snow  below  absorbs  the  moisture.  Last  nigh 
a  large  pool  formed  under  Cross'  bag.  and  this  morning  his  i:lothing  was  thoroughly  soaked.  It  was  so 
disagreeable,  in  fact,  that  the  natives  got  up  long  before  morning  to  avoid  the  misery  of  lying  in  a  pool  of 
water  and  went  hunting. 

Israel's  bearings  place  us  about  14  miles  east  of  the  meridian  of  Cape  Sabine,  and  in  latitude  78°  53.6'. 
Jans  shot  a  large  seal  this  morning,  which  unfortunately  sank  before  it  could  be  secured.  On  our  return 
from  the  attempt  to  secure  the  whale-boat  this  morning,  the  whole  party  was  ordered  out  and  re(|uired  to 
enter  the  ice-boat  in  order  that  her  buoyancy  and  capacity  might  be  tested.  We  were  all  able  to  enter,  but 
to  do  so  required  some  to  lie  down  in  the  bottom,  and  others  to  sit  in  cramped  positions  on  the  thwarts, 
room  being  reserved  for  two  oarsmen.  After  we  were  all  settled  down  ciuietly  it  w^as  found  that  she  couUl 
carry  about  1,000  pounds  more  in  a  calm  sea,  but  not  more  than  half  the  party  in  a  heavy  sea.  The  gun- 
wale wa  >  only  about  three  inches  [76"""!  above  the  water-line.  ^^  ith  this  knowledge  before  us  we  feel  fairly 
safe  in  0.1  r  present  position,  and  confident  of  reaching  the  shore  with  our  boat  if  the  direction  of  our  floe  carries 
us  anywhere  near  it. 

Judging  from  the  occasional  glimpses  which  we  have  caught  of  the  land,  our  position  has  not  changed 
materially  during  the  last  three  days.  The  boat  having  been  injured  this  morning  by  running  it  over  broken 
ice,  was  examined  and  skillfully  repaired  by  Elison.  The  only  shovel  iti  our  possession  was  lost  overboard 
this  morning  by  Jewell.     The  temperature  has  been  falling  all  day;  at  6  p.  m.  it  was  -fS.o*^  [ — 13.3°  C.j. 

Sunday,  Septembt-r  23,  1883. — A  cold,  raw,  damp  and  stormy  day.  A  high  southeast  wind  accompanied 
by  snow  tends  to  make  this  day  the  most  disagreeable  one  that  we  have  experienced  this  season.  Teii.i)er- 
ature  +8.0°  [-13.3°  C.]. 

We  appear  to  be  drifting  slowly  back  toward  our  old  position  near  Cocked  Hat  Island.  At  noon  we 
were  in  latitude  78°  52',  and  only  about  eight  miles  from  the  islaud.  Our  drift  in  this  ilirection  would  seem 
to  indicate  the  presence  of  a  current  through  Hayes  Sound  to  the  west. 


452 


TIIK  LADY  FUANKLIN  HAY  KXIMCDITION. 


it      i  ?a      -  .     , 


Dr.  Pavy  has  a  large  corps  o*"  patients  now  wlio  arc  all  down  with  the  tlux.  Sehneider  has  heeii  ite  ill 
for  several  days,  ^nd  is  now  much  worse.  Lieutenant  Cireely  having  «ut  one  of  his  fingers  badly  with  a  piece 
of  ice  is  greatly  inconvenienced  in  consei|uen<e  of  its  inllanied  condition.  Cross  has  frozen  slightly  the  hall 
of  one  of  his  feet  and  linijis  i>ainfully  in  walking.  U'e  tan  now  jiartake  of  seal-hluliber  without  t'le  lea  i 
feeling  of  re|)ugnanee  or  annoyance.  In  this  matter  we  can  compete  very  creditably  with  the  blubber-eatmg 
races  of  the  north.  Lieutenant  (ireely  directs  nie  to  go  out  to-morrow  to  reconnoiter  for  tlie  chaiu  es  ol 
obtaining  a  foothold  on  the  whale-boat  lloe.  To  judge  from  the  direction  in  which  we  are  being  ilriftetl,  we 
are  impressed  with  the  belief  that  a  current  exists  to  the  westward  through  Hayes  Sound  and  is  gradually 
drawing  us  in  that  diret  tion. 

A/iniiAn,  S<fti-»i/>i-r  24,  1S83.— .Southwest  wind  at  4  a.  m.  At  6  o'<  lock  it  i  hanged  to  northwest,  and 
remained  at  this  jjoint  during  the  day.  .\t  9  a.  m.  we  were  six  miles  north  of  Hrevoort  Island,  and  at  4  p.  ni. 
we  were  in  latitude  78°  49'  north.  We  liad  at  that  time  moved  slightly  to  the  west  against  the  northwest 
wind,  which  is  almost  conclusive  proof  to  our  minds  of  the  existence  of  the  current  mentioned  yesterday  ai  d 
the  day  before. 

I  went  out  this  morning  in  accordance  with  the  instructions  received  yesterday  from  Lieutenant  (Ireely, 
but  was  turned  back  not  far  rom  camp  by  the  lanes  01  .Judge  ice  encountered.  No  route  was  considered 
feasible  except  by  the  lane  to  the  west  of  our  camp,  which  had  been  dosing  slowly  since  early  morning. 
In  the  afternoon  I  accompanied  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  a  small  party  in  the  boat  to  the  floe  on  the 
opposite  side  of  this  lane.  Leaving  a  i>arty  to  watch  the  boat,  we  took  Jens  and  proceedeil  towards  the 
floe  on  which  the  whale-boat  was  resting.  We  had  not  gone  far  in  this  direction  before  we  heard  repeated 
calls  from  Hender,  who  had  been  left  a  short  ilistance  behind  to  watch  a  suspicious-looking  crack  in  the 
floe.  His  frantic  gestures  warned  us  that  the  matter  was  really  a  serious  one,  and  we  hurried  back  with  all 
possible  speed.  We  were  none  too  soon.  The  floe  bent,  crundtled,  and  broke  underneath  our  feet  with 
that  dismal  and  groaning  sounti  peculiar  to  the  ice  alone  ;mi!  which  wil  a|)|iall  the  stoutest  heart.  On 
reaching  the  i)lace  where  Hender  stood,  we  found  the  narrow  (••ack,  over  whii  h  we  had  crossed  but  a  few 
moments  before,  to  be  rapidly  widening.  It  was  already  several  feet  in  width;  a  few  im  lies  more  and  we 
would  be  too  late.  The  eye  glanced  hastily  along  the  seam  to  select  the  most  narrow  plaie,  and  with  a 
ipiick  running  leaj),  into  which  all  our  strength  and  energy  was  thrown,  we  landeil  on  the  opposite  side 
safely. 

The  game  is  getting  scarce  in  this  vicinity;  only  one  seal  has  been  soen  to-day,  and  it  was  not  taken. 
Light  snow  fell  at  about  5  p.  m.,  and  the  wind  changed  to  northeast. 

Tuesday,  Scptemher  35,  1883. — The  northeasl  wind  which  was  blowing  last  night  continued  brisk  and 
in  the  same  direction  to-day.  Minimum  temperature  last  night,  -|-io.o°  \  —  \i.2°  C.J.  Our  position  at  S 
a.  m.  was  78°  48'  N.  latitude,  and  about  one  mile  east  of  hrevoort  Island.  We  will  probably  drift  down 
past  the  island  iluring  the  next  twenty-four  hours,  if  the  storm  continues  to  rage  .so  violently  much  longer. 
Living  on  this  floe  is  worse  than  jirison  life.     I  wonder  if  we  will  esca[)e  from  it  soon? 

The  pack  all  about  us  is  in  motion;  it  is  grinding,  crumbling,  and  piling  in  masses  high  around  the 
edges  of  our  friendly  floe.  The  terrific  pressure  finally  became  so  great,  th.at  the  small  corner  of  the  floe  on 
which  we  were  encamped  broke  away  from  the  main  portion,  and  before  we  could  transfer  with  our  eflects 
to  the  larger  and  more  substantial  one,  we  had  drifted  apart,  and  the  intervening  siiace  was  soon  filled  with 
dc'ibris  ice.  The  line  of  separation  ran  not  far  from  our  "tepee,"  in  which  several  of  our  men  were  at  the 
time.  Fast  ice  is  seen  between  Hrevoort  Island  and  Cape  Sabine;  the  former  is  only  about  two  miles  away. 
.\t  2  p.  m.  our  sus|)cnse  and  agony  of  mind  was  increased  tenfold  by  the  sudden  change  of  the  wind  to  th 
northwest,  which  soon  increased  to  a  g.ale,  and  under  the  influence  of  its  great  velocity  we  were  driven  down 
at  a  frightful  rate,  ])ast  Cape  Sabine.  During  the  last  few  days  we  have  had  no  watch  or  guard  during  the 
night,  but,  owing  to  the  dangers  by  which  wc  are  now  beset,  one  will  be  iletailed  this  evening. 

WcdiU'sday,  Scptemlhr  26,  1883. — I  can  never  forget  our  exi)erience  in  the  ilarkness  la.st  night.  The 
suspense  of  the  last  few  hours  has  been  a  terrible  strain  to  our  minds  and  nerves.  \  wild  and  awful  night 
was  passed  in  the  driving  storm;  with  the  tlark  waters  foaming  about  us,  we  momentarily  expected  to  be 
engulfed  by  their  relentless  waves.  Our  crijjpled  floe — already  small  from  abrasion  with  others  of  greater 
size — has  been  again  broken,  leaving  us  scarcely  space  on  which  to  take  refuge  with  our  boat  and  stores. 

The  violence  of  the  storm  had  formed  a  large  pool  letwcen  us  and  the  lanil,  and  the  waves,  unham])ered 
by  ice,  came  rolling  against  our  crystal  raft,  throwing  spray  over  those  who  had  the  temerity  to  approach  its 


TIIK  i.ADY   KHANKLIN   HAY    KXI'KIUTION. 


453 


borders.  We  ufro  driven  down  jmsl  Payer  IIarl")r  and  Rossc  li.iy  at  an  alarming  rate  of  speed,  l)y  the 
velocity  of  the  wiiiil  acting  f>n  the  surface  of  our  floe. 

The  (ooks  were  railed  to  iirejiare  bro.ikfast  long  before  daylight,  in  oriler  that  we  might  be  ready  at  the 
first  streak  of  dawn  to  take  advantage  ol  the  open  water,  and  thereby  reaih  the  coast.  Itut  when  daylight 
revealed  to  us  the  land  it  was  fully  six  miles  away,  and  for  onethird  of  that  distance  the  water  was  covered 
with  debris  ii  e  through  which  no  boat  (nuld  be  pushed,  and  for  the  remaining  distance  the  sea  was  a  seething, 
foaming  ocean  whi(  h  would  have  swamped  our  boat  in  a  moment.  I'lven  had  it  been  |iossible  to  have  nav- 
igated the  clear  water,  when  the  sludge  or  debris  ice  was  reacheil  the  boat  would  have  had  to  turn  ba<k. 

At  7  p.  m.  we  were  in  latitude  78 '  37'  N.  _  Owing  to  the  heavy  jiack  lying  east  of  us  we  are  being 
driven  almost  directly  south  along  theioast  instead  of  southeast,  as  the  direction  of  the  storm  woidd  tend  to 
drive  us.  Should  wejiass  down  into  ISatVm  Hay  we  are  inevitably  lost,  except  we  make  the  (,'arey  Islands, 
which  is  the  only  thing  that  will  save  us. 

Fully  onethird  of  our  number  has  the  flux  badly.  Its  presence  is  attributed  to  the  <'onstant  and 
excessive  use  of  salt  water  in  cooking  our  food,  and  also  the  liberal  use  of  fresh  seal  meat.  'The  use  of  salt 
water  is  necessary,  as  our  supjily  of  salt  has  been  exhausted  for  some  time. 

The  pressure  <if  the  park  embracing  our  floe  was  so  great  this  morning  that  the  little  floe  was  cnmibled 
into  fragments,  and  we  were  forced  to  retreat  |)re<ipitately  to  another  for  safety.  The  storm  was  in  progress 
at  the  time  and  mercilessly  drove  the  fme  granulated  particles  of  snow  in  our  faces  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
barely  enable  us  to  make  the  elforts  necessary  to  elfe<-t  our  escape.  The  icehouse  which  Rice  and  his  |)arty 
had  constructed  was  crushed  by  an  overlapping  floe.  Had  they  occupied  it  at  the  time  of  disruption  none 
would  have  escaped  ali\e.  While  retreating  one  remarked:  "  I  don't  care  if  I  am  not  saved;  I  have  suflered 
untold  agonies  since  leaving  Conger,  an<l  can  see  nothing  but  suffering  in  the  future." 

T/iiiru/ity,  S,p/riii/>fr  2-],  iSSj;. — The  weather  is  still  wretclied  in  the  extreme;  the  atmosphere  is  so 
ihick  and  hazy  that  the  coast  cannot  even  be  sighted;  consecpiently  we  have  no  clefmite  idea  of  where  we 
are,  or  whether  or  not  we  are  yet  drifting  with  the  pack.  We  are  certain  only  of  one  thing,  and  that  is  our 
terrible  sufferings.     Everything  else  is  indelinite. 

Rice  and  his  party  have  no  shelter  for  their  sleei)ing-bags,  and  their  condition  is  necessarily  miserable. 
So  great  were  their  sufferings  during  the  storm  to-day  that  they  not  only  refused  to  get  up  to  supper,  but 
they  also  declined  their  ration  of  rum  which  Lieutenant  (ireely  ordered  to  be  issued  them.  No  breakfast 
«:ould  be  cooked  owing  to  the  drifting  snow,  and  our  bags  were  tilled  with  tl'.e  finer  particles  of  drift;  our 
clothing  was  saturated,  and  everybody  was  feeling  as  if  there  was  but  little  pleasure  after  all  in  this  world, 
especially  if  in  |)ursuil  of  glory  in  these  regions.  New  victims  of  flux  were  announced  to-<lay.  I  am  now 
included  in  the  list.     We  spent  the  most  of  the  day  in  our  sleeping-bags. 

Friday,  Si-/>teiii/>fr  28,  1883. —The  gale  abated  somewhat  towards  evening,  and  accompanied  by 
Christiansen  I  traveled  to  the  westward  of  camp  to  observe  the  condition  of  the  jiack,  with  the  view  of 
facilitating  our  escape  from  this  floe.  We  found  a  lead  of  water  not  far  from  cam[)  which  was  about  half  a 
mile  in  width,  and  which  aflbrded  excellent  advantages.  Our  floe,  having  been  lodged  against  a  grounded 
iceberg,  has  been  held  in  this  position  since  yesterday.  We  are  in  the  entrance  to  Uaird  Inlet  and  near  its 
northern  shore.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  providential  intervention  of  this  berg,  we  without  doubt  would  have 
been  driven  into  Baffin  Hay,  and  our  fate  would  forever  have  remained  a  mystery  to  the  world. 

As  no  movement  had  been  detected  in  the  ice  while  I  was  watching  it,  I  hastened  back  to  camp  and 
reported  the  favorable  opportunity  which  was  now  offered  us.  The  party  was  at  once  stirring;  the  sledge 
was  hastily  loaded  and  hauled  to  the  lane,  where  the  boat  was  launched.  While  Rice  with  a  small  party 
was  ferrying  over  the  first  load  the  remainder  of  the  party  was  hauling  to  the  boat  landing  the  remaining 
articles  of  our  equipment  and  provisions.  The  entire  party,  together  with  all  our  stores,  were  transferred 
across  this  water-space  in  seven  loads.  The  floe  on  which  we  were  now  landed  was  about  one  mile  in  diam- 
eter. Passing  to  the  opposite  side  of  this  floe,  we  were  stopped  by  new  ice,  which  caused  us  to  go  into  camp 
for  the  night.  We  are  about  two  miles  from  where  we  started  and  a  little  more  than  a  mile  from  the  land. 
Through  the  loss  of  a  shoe  to  our  small  sledge  to-day  our  progress  was  greatly  retarded.  The  boat,  which 
was  left  back  about  one  mile,  will  be  brought  up  in  the  morning.  A  tenon  of  our  large  sledge  was  broken 
just  before  going  into  camp,  but  Elison  has  repaired  it  as  carefully  as  the  circumstances  will  permit. 

Gardiner  is  quite  ill.  He  reluctantly  gave  up  his  place  in  the  drag-ropes  this  afternoon  from  sheer 
weakness.  Cross  is  also  an  invalid  and  cannot  work  in  the  traces  with  the  others.  He  is  allowed  to  hobble 
along  after  the  sledges  in  the  beaten  path,  in  orde;  that  his  frosted  foot  may  be  treated  as  tenderly  as  possible. 


454 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


i-:. 


:  \.im 


Satttniny,  Septt-mbfr  29,  1883. — Shore  at  last!  Safe  on  land  once  more.  Early  this  morning  when  the 
cooks  were  called,  I  was  directed  by  Lieutenant  (Ireely  to  advance  toward  the  land  with  a  view  of  select- 
ing a  route  for  the  sledges.  I  found  that  we  had  been  deceived  last  evening  in  our  expression  of  opinion 
that  the  land  was  only  one  mile  away.  We  were  then  in  reality  over  four  miles  from  the  nearest  point  of 
land  that  we  could  reach.  The  conditions  of  traveling  were  found  to  be  higlily  favorable  for  our  sledges, 
and  the  start  was  made  almost  immediately  after  my  return  (7  a.  m.).  We  found  it  necessary  to  ferry  every- 
thing over  two  narrow  leads  of  water  before  land  could  be  reached.  The  last  load  arrived  at  the  shore  at 
6  p.  m.  Every  one  was  conscious  of  our  danger,  and  each  one  worked  with  energy  amounting  almost  to 
desperation.     As  might  be  expected  all  are  fagg"d  out. 

Our  camp  was  made  on  the  cold,  barren,  and  snow-covered  rocks  fringing  the  base  of  the  high  conical- 
shaped  hill  which  had  been  so  conspicuous  a  land  mark,  and  which  we  had  used  a."  a  guide  in  traveling 
towards  shore.  Our  sleeping-bags  were  spread  on  the  rocks,  no  shelters  being  erected  owing  to  the 
v^.-iriness  of  the  men. 

Walrus  and  seals  have  been  seen  in  great  numbers  to-day,  but  the  hunters  have  been  unable  to  kill 
anything,  although  they  have  hunted  faithfully  since  morning.  The  bark  of  a  dog  heard  by  Dr.  Pavy  and 
myself  a  few  d.iys  ago  could  have  been  nothing  more  nor  less  than  the  hoarse  bellowing  of  a  walrus.  Hav- 
ing heard  the  sound  so  frequently  to-day,  I  am  convinced  of  my  error  on  that  occasion.  Several  ravens 
and  a  br.-ice  of  ducks  were  observed  flying  about  us  during  the  march.  Tht  former  are  considered  as  birds 
of  ill-omen,  and  many  remarks  tending  to  the  subject  were  made  by  some  of  the  superstitious  ones. 

Lieutenant  Greely  held  another  consultation  with  his  officers  and  Rice  and  myself  this  evening  regard- 
ing the  future  movements  of  the  party.  Cross,  I  am  sorry  to  record,  has  again  abused  the  confidence 
reposed  in  him  by  his  companions,  by  purloining  rum  from  their  stores  while  they  were  absent  bringing  up 
supplies.  Having  been  excused  from  work  in  the  drag-ropes  on  account  of  a  frost-bitten  foot,  he  was  left 
on  the  floe  to  guard  tlie  first  load  while  the  party  went  back  for  the  second.  On  returning,  we  found  him 
in  a  beastly  state  of  intoxication.  Ralston  and  Schneider  were  witnesses  of  his  perfidy.  That  this  man  has 
neither  honor  nor  manhood,  is  the  honest  conviction  of  all.  He  has  been  trusted  repeatedly,  but  in  every 
ins'ance  l^is  uncontrollable  thirst  for  drink  has  led  him  to  ignore  all  moral  obligations,  and  even  to  defy 
author  cy. 

Sunday,  Si'/<t<'m/>rr  30,  1883. — I  was  detailed  this  morning,  together  with  eight  others  of  the  party,  to 
accompany  Lieutenant  Lock  wood  to  Cai)e  Sabine,  fir  the  j)urpose  of  ascertaining  what  is  in  "^tore  for  us 
there.  Lieutenant  Greely  directed  Corporal  Salor  and  Christiansen  to  reconnoiter  in  the  direction  of  Rosse 
Bay,  to  observe  the  conditions  of  the  ice  for  traveling  with  sledges,  and  also  to  examine  Leconte  Point  for 
caches  of  provisions  which  may  have  been  left  there  I)y  relief  vessels.  They  returned  after  an  absence  of  a 
few  hours,  Salor  reporting  that  serious  obstacles  in  the  form  of  open  water  and  drifting  ice  would  prevent 
traveling  in  that  direction  for  the  present.  For  the  same  reason,  they  were  prevented  from  reaching  the 
land  at  Leconte  Point.  On  learning  that  the  route  was  not  practicable  for  sledges.  Rice  at  once  volunteered 
to  go  to  Cape  .Sabine  by  traveling  overland.  He  would  take  Jens  as  his  companion,  and  they  would  carry 
their  sleeping-bag  and  provisions  on  their  shoulders.  He  was  at  once  granted  permission  to  make  this 
hazardous  journey,  and  they  will  start  to-morrow  morning,  taking  rations  for  four  days. 

It  is  more  than  probable  that  we  will  be  compelled  to  pass  the  winter  in  this  place.  I  am  not  sure  but 
that  it  otiers  superior  .advantages  in  the  matter  of  game,  but  great  suffering  must  necessarily  be  experienced 
in  wintering  in  this  locality,  be  game  ever  so  plenteous.  While  the  channel  is  filled  with  these  grinding 
masses  of  ice,  which  are  whirled  rapidly  about  the  current  of  the  sound,  there  is  no  possibility  of  crossing 
to  Littleton  Island  with  our  one  miserable  little  boat.  1  have  no  doubt  tl  at  just  now  (while  the  new  ice  is 
forming)  if  the  attempt  were  made,  it  would  result  in  disaster  to  the  entire  party. 

This  afternoon  Rice  found  a  level  spot  about  half  a  mile  north  of  camp  which  offers  many  inducements 
as  the  site  for  our  winter  (juarters.  Whisler  discovered  three  Eskimo  huts  of  ancient  origin,  which  were  in 
a  very  dilapidated  state,  and  I  found  several  lieai)s  of  stone  under  which  the  natives  iiad  formerly  made 
caches  of  meat.  Henry  traveled  westward  along  the  north  shore  of  this  inlet  for  a  distance  of  five  miles, 
but  saw  nothing  of  interest.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  crossed  the  gl.icier  to  the  north  and  looked  down  into 
Rosse  15ay.  He  saw  two  ptarmigan  and  also  the  tracks  of  a  fox  and  bear.  The  iatur  is  quite  near  our 
camp,  (lame  is  very  scarce.  The  hunters  have  killed  nothing  to-day.  We  are  trying  to  delude  ourselves 
into  the  belief  that  relief  will  yet  come  to  us  this  fall.     After  having  passed  two  ye".is  in  these  regions,  and 


Ki  ^i 


THK  LADY  KUANKLIN   HAY  KXI'KDITIOX. 


455 


havinj;  traveled  this  far  towards  home,  it  is  hard  to  understand  that  we  are  tonipellod  to  remain  for  a  third 
year,  aiul  that  vmder  particularly  distressing  circumstances. 

Miiiday,  OdohiT  i,  1883. — Weather  cloudy.  The  sun  has  fallen  so  near  the  hori/.on  thin  Tsrael  was 
unable  to  get  an  observation  to-day,  and  the  sky  being  so  cloudy  as  to  obscure  all  the  stars;  our  posi'-on 
was  determined  only  approximately  by  reference  to  the  English  chart  and  the  points  visible  along  the  coast 
in  our  vicinity.  In  accordance  with  the  arrangements  made  yesterday,  Rice  started  at  8.30  a.  m.  accom- 
panied by  Jens,  the  faithful  native.  Ellis  and  Whisler  accompanied  them  to  transport  their  p;.cks  across  the 
glacier  just  north  of  camp,  which  can  be  surmounted  only  with  the  greatest  difficulty.  On  returning  this 
evering  they  reported  that  good  progress  was  being  made  by  the  travelers. 

Long  killed  a  walrus  to-day,  but  before  the  Eskimo  >vith  his  kayak  could  reach  the  animal  it  disappeared 
from  view.  I  shot  and  wounded  a  wretched  looking  specimen  of  the  arctic  fox  this  evening.  I  le  was  detected 
among  the  bags  of  provisions  nibbling  at  the  stearine,  und  when  wounded  by  my  bullet  went  slowly  up  the 
hill  limping  painfully  and  being  pursued  by  Bender,  who  was  not  more  successful  than  myself  as  a  marksman. 

In  company  with  Lieutenants  L  )ckwood  and  Kislingbury  and  Dr.  Pavy,  I  visited  the  spot  indicated 
yesterday  by  Rice  as  a  most  desirable  place  on  which  to  iocate  our  winter  huts.  The  place  is  well  sheltered 
from  the  winds  and  in  every  way  perfectly  adapted  to  our  i)urposes.  The  Eskimo  formerly  had  their  winter 
houses  built  on  this  very  spot,  and  that  alone  speaks  volumes  in  favor  of  its  adoption.  Ik-sides  the  stones 
from  the  dilapidated  huts  and  the  meat  caches  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  great  numbers  can  reatlily  be 
obtained  from  the  adjacent  hill.  The  beds  of  moss  growing  sparsely  on  the  bleak  hillside  will  also  be  used 
as  lining  to  the  w.ills.  The  huts  will  probably  be  three  in  numbei,  as  this  place  is  <"-  .ored  by  nearly  all  the 
party. 

Under  the  intluence  of  a  southerly  gale  the  ice  in  Smith  Sound  has  all  disappeared  except  the  small 
raft  over  which  we  escaped  to  land  day  before  yesterday.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  says  that  last  evening  at 
5  o'clock  the  sound  was  entirely  open  to  Littleton  Island.  Light  snow  fell  at  6  p.  m.  Jewell,  Eli  on,  and 
Henry  went  out  after  the  reindeer  moss  which  grows  nere  in  anything  but  abundance,  and  they  obtained 
very  little ;  neither  did  they  observe  any  traces  of  game  during  their  absence. 

Tiirsi/iiw  Oitohi-r  2,  1883. — The  cloudy  weather  continues.  I  wonder  if  we  will  ev> r  again  be  blessed 
with  pleasant  weather!  When  Connell  arose  this  nu,..,ing  to  perform  the  duties  of  cook,  he  doteiied  a 
small  blue  fox  in  the  act  of  purloining  food  from  the  bags  of  provisions.  He  immediately  fired  at  the 
thieving  rascal,  !)Ut  without  ertect. 

I  took  an  inventory  of  the  commissary  stores  last  evening,  and  found  but  thirty-five  (35)  days  full 
rations  of  hard  bread  and  meat  remained.  These  rations,  however,  can  be  extended  to  fifty  (50)  days  by  sub- 
jecting ouiselves  to  a  greatly  reduced  <liet,  but  the  suffering  which  this  would  entail  would  necessarily  be 
extreme  in  consetiuence  of  the  low  temperatures  and  the  hard  work  which  we  will  perform  in  building  our 
houses.  Fifty  days  will  carry  us  to  November  15  even  if  no  game  be  taken  m  tiie  interval,  and  at  tli.it 
date  we  will  be  either  on  the  Greenland  coast  or  in  Haffin  Bay.  Lieutenant  Greely  says  he  will  atteiniit  to 
cross  tjie  sounil  to  Littleton  Island  when  but  ten  <lays'  provisions  remaiii  to  us,  despite  the  almost  certain 
d'struction  to  the  party  which  would  follow  such  an  attempt.  Of  course  if  Rice  finds  abundance  of  pro- 
visions, as  we  hope  he  will,  at  Cape  Sabine,  this  plan  will  be  willingly  aliandoned  for  one  less  dangerous. 

By  direction  of  Lieutenant  Greely,  I-ockwood  and  myself  selected  a  building  site  for  our  winter 
habitation.  We  found  a  splendid  place  about  half  a  mile  north  of  our  present  encampment,  which  is  well 
sheltered  by  the  promontory  (Eskimo  Point)  on  one  side  and  tliM  hills  and  glacier  on  the  other  two.  The 
buildings  will  face  the  sound  to  the  southwest.  In  the  afternoon  we  moved  down  the  camp  e(iuii)age  and 
sufficient  provisions  to  last  us  five  or  six  days.  The  ice  is  very  wet  and  sloppy,  and  our  feet  were  sub- 
jected necessarily  to  great  colil  wwA  dampness. 

Long  and  C'hristiansen  have  been  detailed  by  Lieutenant  Greely  as  permaiu'iit  hunter'-;  they  killed 
notiiing  to-day.  The  native  is  ot  the  opinion  that  game  of  all  kinds  has  left  the  pools  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
grounded  bergs  and  has  taken  refuge  in  the  open  water. 

The  ration  of  broad  was  reduc'cd  to  six  (6)  ounces,  potatoes  to  one  and  one-half  (ij^^),  and  meat  was 
again  reduced  to  twelve  (12)  ounces.  One  ounce  of  extract  of  beef  has  been  added  to  our  ration  to  com- 
pensate in  a  degree  for  the  reduction. 

Wednesday,  October  j,,  1883. — At  the  coun';il  cy.Ued  by  the  commanding  officer  this  morning  it  was 
decided  to  construct  three  houses  for  the  winter  juartj  rs  of  the  party.  A  division  of  the  party  for  occupanc  y 
of  these  houses  will  be  made  as  follows:  Hon -j  number  i  :   Lieutenants  Greely  and   Lockwood,  Sergeants 


-     » 


456 


THE  LADY  FltANKLIN  HAY  EXPIiJDITION. 


;  m  -i 


?ii- 


Rice,  Gardine',  J«?well,  and  Klison,  and  Privates  Linn  and  Ellis.  Number  2  :  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  Dr. 
Pavy,  Sergeants  Connell,  Ralston  and  Israel,  C'orporal  Salor,  Acting  Hospital  Steward  Biederbick,  and 
Private  Long.  Number  ,3;  Sergeants  Brainard  and  Cross,  Privates  Bender,  Henry,  Frederick,  Schneider 
and  Whistler.  The  two  faithful  natives,  Christiansen  and  Jens,  are  aho  to  be  quartereci  in  my  hut.  Three 
ancient  Eskimo  i^i^/ocs  furnished  abundant  material  for  building  purposes,  and  when  we  discontinued  work 
this  evening  the  stone  foundations  to  our  houses  were  well  advan>  cd.  In  order  that  the  work  may  be 
expedited,  and  that  every  nan  may  work  to  advantage  and  to  his  own  interest,  each  of  the  three  parties 
confined  their  labors  to  their  own  building. 

Light  snow  has  fallen  and  high  winds  have  prevailed  all  day,  making  our  work  anything  but  agreeable. 
The  hunters  saw  a  few  walrus  but  no  seals.  A  solitary  snow-bunting,  evidently  separated  from  its  mate  was 
observed  hopping  about  the  camp,  pecking  the  scanty  crumbs  and  chirping  mournfully.  It  did  not  remain 
with  us  long,  but  soon  took  flight  to  the  southward,  probably  in  search  of  more  congenial  climes.  Cross's 
foot  is  improving;  Gardiner's  finger  is  also  somewhat  better.  The  channel  is  again  filled  with  heavy 
paleocrystic  ice,  which  is  moving  witli  the  current  at  a  rapid  rate  in  the  north  water,  being  urged  by  the 
pressure  of  the  northern  pack.     With  this  the  last  hope  of  crossing  to  Littleton  Island  is  gone. 

Thursday,  October  4,  1883. — It  has  been  clear  and  beautiful  weather  to-day.  This  will  be  a  great 
.advantage  to  poor  Rice  and  Jens,  who  are  ever  thought  of  in  their  lonely  and  toilsome  journey  through  an 
isolated  and  unknown  region.  A  northeast  gale  threatened  'o  relieve  us  last  night  of  our  shelter,  the 
«' tepee,"  but  it  stood  up  bravely  against  the  wind's  terrific  force.  The  temperature  is  slowly  falling;  at  4 
p.  m.  the  thermometer  registered  +8.0°  ["  —  ;  3.3°  C.]. 

Our  houses  are  progressing  with  ."stonishi.  g  rapidity  and  they  will  soon  be  in  readiness  to  occupy.  The 
old  igloos  are  of  the  greatest  value  in  the  supply  of  stones  and  mosses  which  they  furnish.  We  discontinued 
work  on  the  huts  at  2  p.  m.  to  haul  down  a  loud  of  the  stores  left  at  our  old  camp.  'l"he  hunters  saw  a 
walrus  on  the  ice  during  the  day,  but  it  was  found  impossible  to  reach  him,  owing  to  an  intervening  lane  of 
water  and  debris  ice.  The  roaring  and  grinding  noise  produced  by  the  convulsive  and  rumbling  pack  is 
fearful  to  hear;  the  channel  is  ("lUed  from  shore  to  shore  with  ice  \\  !iich  is  being  moved  with  irresistible  force 
by  the  tide  and  currents. 

Dr.  Pavy  requested,  or  rather  recommenced,  that  during  the  working  days  the  corned  beef  be  increased 
to  16  ounces;  pemmican,  when  used  in  lieu  of  beef,  to  14  ounces,  and  bread  to  3  ounces.  This  change 
was  adopted  bv  Lieutenant  Greely. 

Friiiay,  Oi/olvr  ^,  1883. — The  day  has  been  very  foggy  and  somewhat  disagreeable;  temperature,  +7.0^ 
[  —  13.9°  C.l.  The  walls  of  my  house  were  completed  to-day,  and  the  interior  was  filled  with  moss  collected 
with  great  labor  and  patience  from  the  ridge  west  of  camp.  The  walls  are  built  of  stone,  and  are  about  3^ 
feet  [about  i"'J  high.  We  contemplate  building  a  large  snow  wall  about  the  'entire  structure,  which  will 
prevent  the  penetration  of  cold  air  from  the  outside.  One  man  from  each  hut  was  selected  to  represent  his 
respective  mess,  and  lots  were  drawn  for  the  boat,  which  is  to  be  used  as  a  roof  for  one  of  the  three  dwellings. 
Unfortunately  for  the  other  households  the  man  representing  the  interests  of  my  hut  carried  off  the  jjrize, 
and  it  will  be  put  up  to-morrow.  The  dimensions  of  my  house  are  18  feet  [5.5'"]  by  8  feet  1 2.4111].  The 
other  houses  are  progressing  well  but  not  so  f;ist  as  ours.  The  remainder  of  the  stores  were  hauled  up  from 
Refuge  Point  this  afternoon.     No  game  was  seen  to-day  except  a  ptarmigan,  which  was  shot  by  Cross. 

Saturday,  October  6,  1883. — The  minimum  temperature  last  night  was  -|-  12.5  [—10.8°  C.].  We  placed 
the  boat  lengthwise  over  the  hut  to-day,  and  covered  the  remainder  of  th"  space  with  the  launch  canopy, 
which  had  been  brought  with  us  when  the  Lady  Greely  was  abandoned. 

Lieutenant  Greely  detailed  several  of  the  party  who  are  to  constitute  a  board  to  make  a  division  of  the 
canvas,  oars,  and  other  material  used  in  the  construction  of  our  huts.  He  had  appointed  me  as  one  of  the 
members,  but  I  asked  to  be  relieved  from  acting  in  this  capacity,  owing  to  my  position,  and  on  considering 
the  matter  he  acceded  to  my  wishes.  Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  I  refused  lo  have  anything  to  do  with  the 
division  of  these  articles,  1  was  afterwards  accused  by  Israel  of  being  the  leader  in  a  "grab  game,"  as  he 
expresseu  it,  "and  looking  out,"  he  said,  "for  the  interest  of  my  own  party  too  well."  I  took  him  before  the 
commanding  officer  and  stated  the  misrepresentations  which  had  been  ma  le  regarding  my  conduct.  Israel 
then  told  his  .s^oiy  and  e.xplanalions  followed  which  resulted  in  my  vindication. 

The  houses  were  all  covered  to-day,  and  the  messes  moved  into  their  respective  abodes.  Long  and 
Christiansen  each  shot  a  small  seal,  but  only  one  was  secured;  the  other  sank  before  it  could  be  reached, 


mmmn^ 


THE  LADV  FHANKLIN  HAV  I^XPKDITION. 


457 


The  one  saved  will  weigh  about  75  pounds.  It  has  been  intimated  to  nie  that  Israel  was  incited  in  wliat 
he  did  by  one  of  the  noncommissioned  officers  who  should  have  known  better,  but  who  has  a  special 
aptitude  for  fault-finding. 

Sundii\\  October  7.  1883. — This  has  been  a  clear  and  beautiful  day;  minimum  temjjerature,  +12.0° 
[ — ii.i^  C.J.  The  (ireenland  coast  rose  up  proniinently  before  us,  every  ravine  and  irregularity  along  the 
coast  line  being  distinctly  outlined.  Mow  we  all  desire  to  attain  that  coast — that  land  with  its  ]iromises  of 
abundance  of  game  and  salety  to  our  i)arty.  Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  this  is  the  Sabbath  the  work  of 
construction  was  resumed  this  niorning  and  coniiinied  all  day.  Rice  is  now  due  here.  In  anticipation  of 
his  return,  KUis  and  Whi&Mer  were  sent  across  the  glacier  to  meet  him,  but  while  going  over  the  crest  a 
dense  fog  rolled  u])  from  the  sound  which  turned  them  back,  iliey  ha-. 'ng  no  (oinpass  with  which  to  shape 
their  course. 

For  alleged  misconduct  Connell  was  reduced  from  the  rank  of  sergeant  to  the  grade  of  jjrivate  by  order 
of  Lieutenant  (Ireely;  Linn  was  advanced  from  jirivate  to  sergeant.  Israel  c.ime  to  me  this  morning  and 
apologized  in  a  n  inly  way  for  his  unjust  accusati.)ns  of  last  evening,  and  said  that  he  had  been  intluenced 
to  make  the  remarks  by  the  representations  of  one  of  the  men  of  his  mess. 

I  accidentally  learned  this  evening  that  a  feeling  of  dissatisfaction  existed  in  certain  (|uarters  because  of 
alleged  partiality  on  my  ])art  in  issuing  bread  to  "a  favorite  few."  1  innnedi.itely  reipiested  Lieutenant 
Greely  to  relieve  me  from  the  onerous  and  thankless  chities  of  first  sergeant,  and  also  that  some  one  else  be 
appointed  to  issue  the  provisions.  He  refused  to  relieve  lae  from  these  trying  and  irksome  duties,  and  said 
that  he  had  perfect  faith  in  my  manner  of  issuing  the  jirovisions,  aiid  that  he  |)la(eil  implicit  conOdence 
in  me  in  every  way,  notwithstanding  the  slanderous  remarks  which  were  ipade  in  secret,  and  which  h;id  never 
been  brought  to  his  notice.  In  the  future  I  will  endeavor  to  ]ierform  the  impon  at  duties  |>ertaining  to  my 
trust  as  I  have  i''  ^^'i  "ast  with  impartiality  ami  a  rigid  adherence  to  justice.  Hut  it  is  hard  to  endure  tl'.o-  _• 
reflections  on  my  fairness  when  I  have  striven  so  hard  to  satisfy  all.  \Vith  the  confidence  of  my  <onnnander, 
however,  I  shall  reijuire  no  other  incentive  to  carry  out  the  duties  confided  to  my  i  are.  The  base  insinuations 
of  the  few  of  my  comrades  will  be  borne  with  that  fortitude  whicii  all  are  displaying  during  this  tiAingjuriod. 

Bender  and  Schneider  collected  seven  bags  of  saxifrage  for  our  bunks,  and  the  remainder  of  in)-  little 
mess  gathered  mos.s  to  cover  the  roof  of  our  hut.  Long  and  C'hristiansen  shot  a  walrus  on  the  floe,  but 
the  creature  had  life  enough  left  in  its  body  to  roll  itself  into  the  water,  thus  esca]'ing  from  his  tormentors, 
but  leaving  the  ice  and  the  water  where  he  sank  stained  for  yards  around  with  his  crimson  blood.  It  ajipcars 
as  if  we  were  being  pursued  by  the  worst  kmd  of  ill  luck;  nothing  goes  right  any  more.  The  greater  part 
of  the  game  killed  thus  far  has  sank  belbre  it  could  be  reached  by  the  hunters,  and  almost  nothing  is  added 
to  our  slender  stock  of  provisions,  which  are  slowly  but  surely  diminishing.  Christiansen  shot  a  ]>tarmigan 
before  breakfast  this  morning,  and  saw  a  blue  fox  out  on  the  floe,  which  he  jiursaed  but  did  not  capture. 

Monday,  October  8,  188?, — The  weather  has  been  cloudy  all  day,  and  there  are  many  indications  of  a 
speedy  snow-storm.     Minimum  temperature  last  night  was  -|-i2°  [  — ii.r^  C.]. 

Rice  has  not  yet  returned  to  us.  He  is  probably  detained  by  young  ice  or  a  severe  stonn;  nothing 
else  could  keep  him.  God  grant  that  he  may  return  in  safety,  as  we  cannot  well  spare  such  a  noble  soul 
from  our  party  just  now.  We  completed  the  roof  to  our  shanty  and  put  the  finishing  touches  on  our  bunks. 
Bender  has  made  me  a  pair  of  scales,  vvhich,  though  rude,  will  nevertheless  greatly  assist  me  in  weighing  out 
the  scanty  allowances  of  food  to  the  several  messes.  A  mischievous  fox  visited  the  camp  last  night  and 
succeeded  in  stealing  ^  of  a  pound  of  meat,  which  had  been  placed  on  the  roof  of  one  of  the  huts  to  be 
beyond  the  reach  of  these  little  thieves.  The  eflbrts  of  the  hunters  have  again  met  ivith  bad  luck.  Chris 
tiansen  shot  two  seals,  but  before  he  could  sciuee/.e  himself  into  his  kayak  and  paddle  out  to  them  they  had 
both  disappeared.  It  is  indeed  heart-rending  to  see  this  fi)od — which  is  oin-  very  life — sink  befor*:  our  eyes, 
and  we  powerless  to  save  it. 

Tuesday.  October  v),  1883. — ('lear  and  calm  weather.  Rice  returned  to  us  at  4  j).  in.,  and  reported 
having  found  records  at  Cajje  Sabine  and  vicinity,  which  placed  him  in  pcissession  of  facts  most  unwelcome 
and  disheartening.  The  one  redeeming  feature  in  I.is  re|)ort,  however,  is  the  knowledge  of  the  different 
caches  at  Cape  Sabine  which  will  aggregate  about  one  thousand  rations.  The  recordji  which  were  taken 
from  the  caches  at  and  near  Cape  Sabine,  and  those  taken  from  the  cairn  on  Hrevoort  Island,  best  tell  the 
tale.  The  first  record  stated  that  in  the  summer  of  iS8j  the  steam  sealer  Neptune,  of  St  Johns,  N.  F., 
under  command  of  Captain  Sopp,  had  visited  Smith  Sound,  and  endeavored  to  reach  Lady  Franklin  Hay, 
but  was  repulsed  by  the  impenetrable  pack  encountered  near  Victoria  Head.    They  evidently  returned  to 


458 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


1       i 


St.  Johns  the  same  season,  taking  with  them  all  supplies  except  a  small  depot  of  two  hundred  and  forty 
rations,  which  they  left  on  the  '-.oast  just  west  of  Cape  Sabine,  and  a  duplicate  depot  at  Litt':ton  Island. 
There  is  nothing  positive,  however,  known  of  the  existence  of  the  latter,  as  the  depot  had  not  been  made 
when  the  record  v/as  written.  The  expeditionary  force  was  commanded  by  Major  Beebe,  a  member  of  the 
Signal  Corps,  and  private  secretary  to  General  Hazen  at  the  time  we  left  Washington  in  1881. 

The  second  record  was  signed  by  Lieut.  E.  A.  Garlington,  Seventh  Cavalry,  U.  S.  A.,  and  stated  that 
the  Prolfus,  while  working  northward  through  Smith  Sound,  was  crushed  by  ice  on  July  2  jd  of  this  year; 
and  that  everything  except  a  few  rations  and  a  few  articles  of  clothing  was  lost.  His  own  party  of  fourteen 
men,  with  Captain  Pike  and  twenty-one  men,  were  to  cross  to  Littleton  Island,  and  would  endeavor — as  we 
interpret  the  record — to  communicate  with  this  coast.  He  also  states  that  the  Yaiitic  has  orders  to  reach 
Littleton  Island,  and  that  a  Swedish  steamer  will  reach  Cape  York  some  time  during  the  latter  part  of  July. 
The  record  contains  two  passages  which  are  particularly  encouraging.  The  first  reads  as  follows:  "I  will 
endeavor  to  communicate  with  these  vessels  at  once,  and  everything  within  the  power  of  man  will  be  done 
to  rescue  the  brave  men  at  Fort  Conger  from  their  perilous  position."  The  second:  "  I  will  leave  for  the 
eastern  shore  just  as  soon  as  possible,  and  endeavor  to  open  communication."  With  assurances  such  as 
these,  we  cannot  but  feel  that  our  countrymen  are  in  some  manner  working  for  our  relief.  At  the  best,  our 
situation  is  a  desperate  one.  There  are  twenty-five  mouths  to  feed  from  the  rations  at  Cape  Sabine,  anil 
that  amount  cannot  last  long.     If  a  party  desires  to  aid  us,  they  must  come  soon. 

Rice  discovered  that  Rosse  Bay  and  Buchanan  Straits  were  connected  by  a  narrow  strait;  this  strait 
Lieutenant  Greely  at  once  named  in  honor  of  the  man  through  whose  heroism  and  devotion  the  discovery 
was  made.  This  discovery  makes  Cape  Sabine  an  island.  Lieutenant  Greely  has  decided  to  abandon  these 
huts,  and  move  the  entire  party  to  Cape  Sabine,  it  being  impracticable  to  bring  the  rations  to  this  point. 
We  will  take  the  first  load  to  Rosse  Bay  to-morrow. 

Wednesday,  October  10,  1883. — A  heavy  snow-storm  has  prevented  us  from  moving  to  Rosse  Bay  with 
the  first  load  of  stores,  as  contemplated  yesterday.  The  sledge,  however,  has  been  loaded,  and  we  will 
advance  it  at  the  first  favorable  opportunity.  Rice,  the  brave  fellow,  has  again  volunteered  for  a  hazardous 
service — that  of  going  to  Cape  Isabella  to  ascertain  if  any  provisions  were  left  there  by  Bebee  in  1882^ 
when  he  landed  the  whale-boat.  The  temperature  has  been  very  high  during  this  snow-storm,  (iame 
appears  to  be  very  scarce ;  a  few  thieving  foxes  have  been  seen  lately,  but  they  always  manage  to  maintain 
a  safe  distance  between  themselves  and  our  rifles.  Several  ravens  have  been  observed  during  the  last  few 
days.  Two  or  three  of  these  birds  of  ill  omen  flew  over  our  huts  to-day,  uttering  their  ominous  and  dis- 
cordant croaks  as  if  in  derision  of  our  hapless  condition. 

Thursday,  October  ii,  1883. — The  sky  has  been  bright  and  clear  to-day,  and  the  spirits  of  our  jjarty 
naturally  took  an  upward  tendency.  Minimum  temperature  last  night,  +7.0  1  —  13.9°  ^"•J*  ^''^*^  ^"^^  Chris- 
tiansen started  for  Cape  Isabella  at  an  early  hour  this  morning.  The  sledge  party  started  at  6.45  a.  m.  for 
Rosse  Bay  and  returned  at  3.15  p.  m.  On  loaching  Leconte  Island  it  was  found  necessary  to  take  to  the 
high  ice-foot  on  account  of  the  young  ice  outside,  which  would  not  support  the  weight  of  our  sledge.  On 
arriving  at  the  hut  we  found  that  Cro.ss  had  again  been  tampering  with  the  rum  can,  and  as  a  natural  result 
of  his  il'icit  indulgences  he  was  in  .i  mnudlin  state  of  intoxication.  I  at  once  reported  the  circumstances 
to  Lier.ienant  (ireely  for  hi.i  nistructions,  but  he  said,  and  very  truly,  that  nothing  could  be  done  with  him 
except  to  resort  to  violent  measures,  and  this  he  would  not  permit.  "  To  do  this,"  he  said,  "  would  bring 
only  reproach  to  the  party ;  the  disgrace  which  this  man  has  brought  on  himself  would  remain  unchanged." 
It  is  certainly  discouraging  to  labor  all  day  in  the  low  temperatures  while  this  man  remains  in  camp  doing 
nothing  except  to  satisfy  an  abnormal  ap|)etite  for  strong  drink  at  the  expense  of  those  who  are  trying  to 
save  him.  To-lnorrow  we  intend  to  abandon  the  huts  and  march  to  Cape  Sabine,  where,  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, new  winter  quarters  will  be  constructed.     Long  shot  a  seal  this  evening  which  will  weigh  forty  pounds. 

Friday,  October  12,  1883. — The  canvas,  ropes,  oars,  and  poles  from  which  the  roofs  of  the  huts  were 
constructed,  were  all  removed  and  taken  with  us.  The  iceboat  Beaumont  was  left  on  the  skeleton  walls  of 
my  hut.  The  party  started  with  the  two  sledges  at  8  a.  m.,  taking  all  the  property  and  i)rovisions  with  tl  em. 
After  seven  hours  of  the  severest  labor  imaginable,  we  reached  Rosse  Bay  at  the  point  where  the  load 
of  stores  had  been  dropped  day  before  yesterday.  Here  we  halted  for  the  night,  and  prepared  to  make 
ourselves  as  comfortable  as  circumstances  would  permit. 

This  is  a  cold  and  disagreeable  night,  and  my  fingers  are  so  nearly  frozen  that  they  can  scarcely  clasp 
the  pencil.     Despite  the  raw  and  chilling  winds  which  are  sweeping  over  this  desolate  spot,  our  bags  have 


Ut 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  1$AY  EXPEDITION. 


459 


been  spread  down  on  the  ity  rocks,  and  without  shelter  or  i)rotection  of  any  kind  we  have  prepared  to  pass 
a  wretched  night.  The  issue  of  a  small  quantity  of  rum  served  to  bright.n  the  feelings  and  render  us  less 
sensible  to  .^  'r  sufferings.  Owing  to  the  friction  caused  by  the  roughly-shod  runners  on  the  small  sledge,  it 
will  not  be  used  again,  but  double  trips  with  the  large  sledge  will  be  made  instead. 

Snliiniay,  October  13,  1883. — We  had  left  our  sledge  standing  on  the  floe  when  we  retired  last  evening, 
and  on  rising  this  morning  it  was  found  to  have  been  submerged  by  the  overflowing  tide.  The  bending  of 
the  new  ice  under  the  weight  of  the  sledge  and  a  portion  of  its  load,  c;,used  a  depression  in  the  floe  which 
was  soon  filled  by  water  and  the  sledge  completely  covered.  The  sledge  was  secured  only  with  the  greatest 
difficulty,  one  having  to  wade  through  the  ice-cold  water  to  attach  to  it  a  rope,  with  which  it  was  hauled  to 
a  place  of  safety.  We  slept  very  little,  or  not  at  all,  last  night,  on  account  of  the  frozen  bags  and  the  un- 
sheltered position  of  our  camp.  We  crossed  Rosse  Bi^y  by  keeping  close  up  to  the  face  of  the  glacier,  thus 
avoiding  a  few  of  the  many  treacherous  places  where  nothing  but  a  thin  sheet  of  ice  separated  us  from 
disaster  and  death.  Notwithstanding  our  caution  we  felt  it  necessary  at  times  to  rely  on  chance,  and  so 
traveled  over  places  where  the  ice  was  so  thin  that  it  would  bend  and  crack  under  the  combined  weight  of 
the  sledge  and  party.  Jens,  who  was  selected  to  perform  the  important  and  dangerous  duty  of  finding  a 
route  over  the  young  ice,  did  nobly,  and  not  once  did  his  unerring  judgment  in  these  matters  serve  him  badly. 

Camp  was  made  on  the  north  side  of  Rosse  Bay  at  the  entrance  to  Rice  Straits,  and  the  two  loads 
deposited  here  at  the  end  of  nine  (9)  hours  from  the  time  of  starting  this  morning.  The  hauling  was 
comparatively  easy,  owing  to  the  small  lubble  studding  the  floe,  which  caused  the  sledge  to  go  dancing  along 
at  a  merry  gait.  When  returning  for  the  second  load,  a  terrible  crash  was  suddenly  heard  which  caused  us  to 
stop  short  with  consternation  and  fear.  Just  in  front  of  us  the  ice  was  torn  asunder  as  by  an  invisible  hand, 
and  a  huge  black  "snout"  forcing  itself  through  this  fissure  protruded  for  many  feet  into  the  air, throwing 
fragments  of  ice  in  every  direction.  Supposing  that  some  mighty  leviathan  of  the  deep  was  aiming  at  ou,- 
destruction,  we  proceeded  to  investigate  the  matter  with  extreme  caution  and  alertness.  Imagine  our 
surprise  and  disgust  when  the  "snout"  was  found  to  be  nothing  more  dangerous  than  a  huge  block  of  ice, 
which,  having  been  detached  from  the  base  of  the  berg  close  by,  made  its  appearance  at  the  surface  in  the 
manner  described.  Occasional  incidents  of  this  kind  are  the  only  variations  of  the  almost  depressing 
monotony  which  characterize  our  marches.  We  traveled  18  miles;  the  distance  made  good,  however,  was 
only  6  miles.  High  wind;  temperature  this  evening, +3  [—16.1°  C.].  The  alcohol  allowance  was  not 
suthcient  this  evening  to  prepare  the  supper. 

Sunday,  October  14,  1883. — High  winds  accompanied  by  snow  are  the  worst  features  of  the  day.  After 
a  frugal  breakfast  of  raw  dog-pemmican,  we  broke  camp  at  8.15  a.  m.  and  began  our  toilsome  march.  As 
Rice  Strait  was  not  entirely  frozen  over,  we  were  forced  to  follow  the  western  shore  closely.  In  one 
instance  the  water  had  encroached  so  near  to  the  ice-foot  that  it  became  necessary  for  us  to  take  to  the 
land.  In  many  places  the  sledge  seemed  on  the  point  of  breaking  through  the  thin  and  bending  ice,  but 
fortune  favored  our  cause  and  the  impending  duckings  were  escaped.  Had  the  sledge  broken  through  this 
ice  at  any  time  it  would  necessarily  have  proved  fatal  to  many  of  the  men,  and  the  sledge  and  its  load  of 
stores  would  also  have  been  lost.  The  current  ran  with  such  velocity  through  this  channel  that  it  would 
have  swept  at  once  the  party  under  the  floe.  The  two  loads  were  hauled  to  camp  in  about  nine  hours,  and 
the  distance  traveled  was  about  the  same  as  that  traveled  yesterday. 

A  fine  hot  supper  of  pcmmican  was  served  us  in  the  evening,  and  for  a  brief  jteriod  all  our  woes  and 
wretchedness  were  apparently  forgotten.  The  last  drop  of  our  Medford  rum  was  issued  at  the  completion 
of  the  march  to-day,  A  small  white  fo\,  which  Rice  and  Jens  had  killed  with  their  staff  a  few  days  ago, 
was  taken  from  the  rocks  where  they  had  cirl'.ed  it,  and  added  to  our  larder.  Henry  reports  having  frosted 
one  of  his  feet  slightly  to-day.  He  was  observed  to  eat  with  evident  relish  some  of  the  raw  seal  intestines 
containing  shrimps.  We  camped  on  the  south  side  of  Buchanan  Strait  at  the  entrance  to  Rice  Strait.  The 
bare  rocks  were  our  only  l)eds,  and  our  only  protection  against  the  bleak  winds  were  our  thin  buffalo-skin 
sleeping-bags.  A  small  lake  was  found  in  the  vicinity,  which  will  supply  us  with  fresh  water  for  cooking 
purposes. 

Monday,  October  15,  1883. — We  probably  passed  tlie  most  wretched  night  of  our  lives  in  the  howling 
storm  which  rose  soon  after  we  had  retired  last  night.  Had  we  been  under  the  shelter  of  tents  it  would  not 
have  been  such  a  serious  matter,  but  without  any  protection  except  one  thickness  of  hide,  and  that  frozen  as 
hard  as  flint,  is  something  that  I  do  not  care  to  experience  again.  Temperature  this  morning  was  —  i  .0° 
[—18.3°  C.].     Lieutenant  Greely,  Gardiner,  and  Jens  started  out  in  advance  of  the  party  to  select  a  route 


460 


THE  LADY  FHAMKIilN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


!      11 


1!* '  ■ 


1- 


II  hi  1:1 


through  the  hummocks  along  the  coast.     Oardiner,  who  has  not  worked  in  the  drag-ropes  on  this  trip  owing 
to  illness,  has  nevertheless  made  himself  very  useful  all  along  in  selecting  routes  for  the  sledges. 

The  main  party,  with  loaded  sledge,  left  camp  at  7.30  a.  ni.  and  traveled  along  the  coast  past  Cocked 
Hat  Island  towards  Cape  Sabine. 

Wc  left  a  large  cache  of  stores,  which  we  do  not  require  for  our  immediate  use,  at  the  cam])  which  wc 
have  just  left.  The  ice  along  the  route  was  very  rough  and  hummocky,  our  load  very  heavy,  and,  as  a 
sequence  to  our  previous  misfortunes,  our  sledge  broke  down.  Much  valuable  time  was  consumed  in  making 
the  necessary  repairs,  and  when  they  were  comitleted  we  did  no*  dare  to  venture  the  entire  load  again,  so  a 
portion  was  left  on  the  floe  where  the  accident  occurred.  We  advanced  with  the  remainder,  reaching  the 
Proteus  wreck  cache  at  2.30  p.  m.  This  is  probably  about  three  miles  from  Cape  Sabine.  Lieutenant  Greely 
had  already  examined  the  cache,  and  he  expressed  niuch  regret  at  the  small  amount  of  meats  in  coi  lorrison 
with  the  great  quantity  of  other  articles  of  lesser  nutr'Mve  value.  Of  vegetables,  raisins,  lemons,  clothing, 
boxes,  mirrors,  <li:c.,  there  is  a  profuse  display;  there  is  also  about  twenty  pounds  of  Durham  tobat^co  and 
ten  of  plug.  A  portion  of  this  was  issued  to  the  smokers ;  the  non-smokers  received  a  (juantity  of  raisins  in 
lieu  thereof.     The  latter  were  Lic'itenant  Greely.  Rice,  Long,  Hiederbick,  Salor,  Frederick,  and  myself 

Rice  and  Christiansen  arrived  from  Cape  Isabella  ^oon  after  we  had  encamped.  They  report  having 
found  144  pounds  of  canned  meat  at  Isabella,  which  Sir  George  Nares  deposited  there  in  1875;  but  they 
were  unable  to  finil  any  trace  of  the  boat  which  Beebe  was  to  have  landed  at  that  point. 

Tiiisday,  October  16,  1883. — The  snow  has  been  falling  heavily  all  day,  and  a  high  wind  greatly  adds 
to  its  disagreeable  effects.  A  large  party  was  dispatched  under  Lieutenant  Lockwood  to  bring  up  the  stores 
abandoned  yesterday  on  tlie  floe  where  the  sledge  was  broken.  Lieutenant  Greely,  Rice,  and  myself  went 
to  the  Beebe  cache  to  j)repare  it  for  transportation  to  tliis  camp,  where  we  are  to  establish  our  winter  quarters. 
Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  Jens  went  to  Payer  Harbor  to  examine  the  clothing  cache.  We  carried  the  wall 
tent  contained  in  tlie  cache  back  to  camp.  Rice  and  myself  afterwards  returned  to  get  a  quantity  of  the 
Medford  rum  for  daily  issue.  The  ])arty  under  Lieutenant  I.ockwood  returned  at  about  2.30  p.  m.,  and  all 
hands  were  at  once  turned  out  to  erect  the  walls  of  a  snow  house.  The  blocks  were  cut  from  a  neighboring 
drift  and  the  walls  built  about  three  feet  [-9"'|  high.  Tlie  roof  was  made  with  oars  and  the  spare  sails.  It 
is  a  poor  shelter  at  the  best,  but  still  it  is  better  than  none  at  all.  The  wall  tent  will  be  used  by  the  cooks 
as  a  kitchen. 

Wednesday,  October  \i,  1883. — A  strong  northwest  wind  rose  during  the  night,  which  sifted  the  snow 
through  the  openings  in  the  walls  of  our  house,  and  thus  rendering  the  already  pitiable  condition  of  our 
party  ten  times  worse  than  before.  The  sufferings  of  the  party  are  extreme;  Biederbick  and  Long  are  unable 
to  labor  with  the  others,  and  Cross  and  Gardiner  are  liardly  able  to  assist  themselves.  With  our  large  party 
to  feed  and  the  few  rations  at  our  disposal  the  prospect  for  the  future  is  indeed  a  cheerle.ss  one.  The  Beebe 
cache,  including  the  whale-boat,  was  moved  up  to  this  camp  during  the  day.  The  boat  is  badly  broken? 
and  we  have  nothing  with  which  to  repair  the  injury.  Minimum  temperature  la.st  night,  —6.5°  [  —  21.4°  C.]. 
Thursday,  October  18,  1883. — Cold,  very  cold,  and  the  disagreeable  snow  continues  to  fall.  Lieutenant 
Greely  consulted  witli  the  party  this  morning  regarding  the  jite  for  our  winter  (juarters.  It  was  finally  decided 
to  erect  the  hut  on  the  west  side  of  this  point  of  land,  and  the  construction  of  the  walls  was  at  once  begun. 
The  dimensions  will  be  as  follows;  Length  of  house,  25  feet  [7.6'"];  width,  18  feet  [5.5'"],  and  the  height  of 
walls  about  4  feet  [t.2'"].  The  walls  were  nearly  completed  this  evening;  the  party  to  a  man  working  well. 
All  our  provisions  will  be  hauled  from  this  point  (wreck  cache)  across  the  little  divide  to  where  the  house 
is  being  erected.     Christiansen  this  evening  shot  a  blue  fox. 

J'nday,  October  ig,  1883. — tMoudy,  dismal  weather;  a  fresh  southwest  wind  and  the  temperature  9 
degrees  below  zero  [  —  22.8°  C]  are  climatic  conditions  which  are  not  at  all  conducive  either  to  comfort  or 
hapi)iness.  Comfort,  in  fact,  is  something  of  the  past;  it  n<;ver  greets  us  now,  but  in  its  place  the  most  abject 
misery  reigns. 

'I'he  whale-boat  has  been  placed  lengthwise  over  the  middle  of  the  walls  of  our  hut,  and  oars  fastened 
at  the  gunwale  by  one  end  sloping  downward  to  the  walls,  thus  serving  as  rafters.  Canvas  was  drawn  over 
these  rude  rafters  and  securely  fastened  at  the  sides  and'ends.  C)ver  this  frame  were  placed  thin  blocks  of 
snow  in  such  a  manner  as  to  exclude  not  only  the  light,  but  the  wind  as  well.  On  the  floor  of  the  hut  a 
small  {[uantity  of  sand  was  thrown  to  cover  the  snow  and  ice.  AVe  moved  in  during  the  afternoon,  finding 
these  quarters  much  more  comfortable  than  the  battered  old  walls  near  the  wreck  cache.     A  small  lake  only 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  RAY  EXPEDITION. 


461 


a  few  yards  east  of  our  new  house  will  furnish  us  with  an  adequate  supi)ly  of  fresh  water  during  the  coming 
months. 

Saturday,  October  20,  1883. — The  weather  is  cloudy  and  disagreeable.  A  high  northwest  wind  caused 
considerable  drift  and  necessitated  the  discontinuance  of  work  at  i  p.  ni.  Temperature,  — 13.0°  [  —  25.0"  C'.]. 
The  roof  of  our  dwelling  was  completed  this  morning,  and  snow  blocks  were  prejjared  for  the  construction 
of  a  protective  wall  outside  and  around  the  building.  We  are  feeling  comparatively  comfortable  in  our  new- 
quarters,  and  are  of  the  opinion  that  with  proper  food  we  could  endure  the  cold  and  dampness  very  well. 

The  subject  of  our  winter's  schedule  of  provisions  was  this  evening  under  discussion  by  invitation  of 
Lieutenant  Greely.  With  two  or  three  exceptions  the  entire  party  concurred  in  the  opinion  e.\[)ressetl  by 
Lieutenant  Llreely,  that  with  strict  limitations  we  could  extend  our  provisions  to  March  10,  at  which  time 
we  hoped  to  be  at  Littleton  Island.  Dr.  I'avy  declared  this  to  be  an  impossibility,  and  Lieutenant  Kisling- 
bury  wanted  the  limit  to  l)e  placed  at  February  i  instead  of  March  10. 

Sunday,  October  21,  1883. — Weather  fair;  light  westerly  wind  and  a  temperature  of  —3.5°  [—19-7°  C.| 
causes  the  day  to  be  far  from  disagreeable.  A  party  of  sledges  numbering  fourteen,  i  ntler  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  Lock  wood,  proceeded  to  the  entranvC  of  Rice  Straits  for  the  cache  left  there  on  the  15th  inst. 
Long,  who  having  volunteered  with  the  I'lskimo  to  hunt  at  Rice  Straits,  was  left  in  camp  at  that  point  with 
the  wall  tent,  sleeping-bags,  &:c.  We  returned  to  camp  with  the  load  at  a  late  hour  this  evening,  rhorouglily 
exhausted  from  our  efforts.  Everybody  complains  of  eNcessivc  weakness,  aiid  even  *he  stroti;;i;st  of  our 
party  may  be  seen  to  stagger  while  walking  along.  A  lemon  in  lieu  of  lime-juice  was  issued  to  each  man  this 
evening.  The  scraps  of  newspa|)crs  in  which  the  lemons  were  wrapjjcd  have  been  carefully  removed  and  dried 
for  future  reading.  It  will  indeed  l)e  a  rare  treat  to  again  receive  news  from  the  civilized  world.  From  these 
scraps  we  have  already  learned  that  (jarfield  died  on  September  19,  1881,  and  that  Anhur  is  now  President. 
Lieutenant  Greely,  Jewell,  Israel,  Uender,  Biederbick,  and  Whisler  are  on  the  sick-rtport  and  did  not  go 
out  to-day. 

Monday,  October  22,  1883. — Rice,  with  three  men,  was  ordered  to  Cape  Sabine,  to  bring  up  a  few  articles 
of  clothing.  He  was  also  directed  by  Li'^itenant  Greely  to  place  in  the  cairn  on  Brevoort  Island  a  record 
which  the  latter  had  prepared.  This  paper  stated,  in  substance,  where  we  may  be  found,  and  also  how 
destitute  we  are.  The  other  members  of  the  party  who  were  able  to  work  transferred  the  provisions  from 
our  first  canq)  to  our  iiresent  abode.  High  winds,  accompanied  by  snow,  have  prevailed  all  day.  Ellis 
celebrates  his  forty-third  birthday. 

Tuesday,  October  2^,  i?,?,^. — Cloudy  weather;  wind  blowing  from  the  northwest;  temperature, —16.0 
[  —  26.7°  C.J.  We  took  the  pendulum  and  records  to  Payer  Harbor  and  cached  them  at  the  I'^-nglish  depot 
of  provisions.  We  started  to  return  with  a  portion  of  this  depot,  but  our  sledge  broke  down,  and  we  were 
forced  to  return  without  it.  This  accident  made  a  very  bad  impression  on  some  of  the  men,  who  are  about 
discouraged  through  these  series  of  mishaps.  Frost-bites  are  qu;te  common;  almost  everybody  is  afflicted  in 
this  manner.  Ellis  is  quite  ill.  He  was  compelled  to  leave  the  sledge  near  Payer  Harbor  to-day  and  return 
to  the  house. 

Wednesday,  October  ia.,  1883. — The  snow  is  falling  heavily,  and  a  high  northwest  wind  has  been  blowing 
all  day,  causing  a  disagreeable  drift;  temperature,  —5.5  [  —  20.8°  C.].  Twelve  men,  incluiling  myself,  went 
down  to  Payer  Harbor  to  repair  and  haul  in  the  broken  sledge.  Elison  repaired  it  in  a  short  time,  but  soon 
after  starting  it  was  again  broken  and  abandoned.  The  men  were  very  tired  and  weak  from  their  prolonged 
exertions  and  the  effects  of  a  meager  diet.  Our  sufferings  in  this  disagreeable  storm,  while  struggling  to 
secure  this  load  of  provisions,  are  such  as  were  never  before  experienced  in  these  regions. 

Thursday,  October  25,  1883. —  Light  westerly  winds,  accompanied  by  snow;  temperature,  —4.0 
[  —  20.0°  C.].  The  sledge  has  been  repaired  by  Elison  in  a  most  skillful  manner,  and  this  afternoon  it  was 
hauled  to  camp  without  further  accident.  Work  on  the  snow-wall  about  the  house  was  resur.ied  this  after- 
noon. The  hunters  returned  from  Rice  Straits  this  morning,  bringing  with  them  a  seal  which  weighed  about 
65  pounds.  They  left  their  tent  and  sleeping-bags  at  the  cape,  with  the  intention  of  t.''king  an  additional 
supply  of  provisions  and  returning  to  resume  their  hunting. 

Two  barrels  of  dog-biscuit,  weighing  1 10  pounds  each,  were  found  in  the  English  depot  on  Stalknecht 
Island.  This  afternoon  1  opened  one  of  them  and  found  a  large  percentuje  entirely  ruined.  That  which 
was  thoroughly  rotten  and  covered  with  green  mold  was  thrown  on  the  ground,  and  was  eagerly  devoured 
by  the  half-famished  party.  What,  I  wonder,  will  be  our  condition  when  we  undergo  a  still  greater 
reduction  in  our  rations  ? 


*ii 


j>,     <i: 


!.! 


:! 


tK  t  t"     ' 

i  lilt  lot- 
t  UK' 


462 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


The  first  of  a  series  of  very  pleasant  entertainments  tooic  place  to-night.  The  scraps  of  newspapers  taken 
from  the  lemons  were  read  aloud  for  fifteen  minutes  by  Rice  just  after  dinner.  This  will  be  repeated  every 
night  until  all  are  read.     I  observed  an  aurora  this  evening  at  an  eirly  hour. 

Friday,  October  26,  1883. — Biedcrbick  observed  an  aurora  this  morning  at  4  o'clock;  tem[)erature, 
—  15.0  [—26.1°  C],  Light  westerly  wind.  'I'he  sun  disappeared  below  the  hori/on  to-day,  to  reap,  ear  no 
more  until  the  latter  part  of  February,  1  wonder  how  many  of  us  will  ever  look  on  his  glorious  face  again  ? 
We  started  for  Cape  Sabine  at  7  a.  m.  On  our  return  the  sledge  again  broke  down  under  the  weight  of  a 
bulky  load.  As  it  was  growing  dark  at  that  time,  no  attempt  was  made  at  repairs,  but  the  party  at  once 
returned  to  the  hut,  where  they  worked  for  some  time  on  the  snow-wall.  There  is  a  vast  expanse  of  open 
water  to  the  north,  but  very  little  can  be  seen  in  the  direction  of  the  Greenland  coast.  The  hunters  were 
out  at  the  margin  of  the  ice  all  day,  but  saw  no  game. 

Saturday,  October  21,  1883. — The  weather  is  again  cloudy  and  disagreeable;  and  the  lowest  tempera- 
ture yet  experienced  by  us  on  these  shores  was  recorded  last  night,  namely,  —22.0  f — 32.8°  C.]..  The 
sledge  was  once  more  repaired,  and  the  load  which  we  abandoned  yesterday  on  tiie  floe  was  hauled  to 
camp.  The  temperature  of  the  interior  of  Tie  hut  this  morning  was  1-33.0  [  +  0.6°  C.J.  The  hunters  were 
not  successful  in  their  efforts  to  secure  game  to-day.  The  commissary  store-house  was  broken  into  last 
night  and  a  small  qu^'ntity  of  hard  bread  taken. 

Lieutenant  Giedy  has  decided  to  call  this  place  "Camp  Clay,"  in  honor  of  Mr.  Henry  Clay,  a  fellow- 
passenger  on  the  Proteus  in  1881  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  from  which  place  he  returned  to  St.  John's.  We 
found  a  Louis\'ille  Courier-Journal  in  one  of  these  caches,  which  contains  an  article  written  by  Mr.  Clay 
regarding  our  deplorable  situation,  and  makiiig  certain  specific  recommendations  which,  it  is  needless  to  say, 
have  not  been  followed  by  the  Government.  He  predicts  in  this  article  our  jjresent  condition,  and  urges  that 
Cape  Sabine  (where  we  now  are)  should  be  jjiovisio;  ed.     Tobacco  «as  issued  to  the  smokers  this  evening. 

Sunday,  October  28,  1083. — Temperature,  —17.5  [—27.5°  C.J;  inside  the  hut  it  stood  at  +24.0 
[—4.4°  C.J.  A  party  of  ab  lut  twelve  or  fourteen  of  the  strongest  men  went  to  Cape  Sabine  for  another  load 
of  the  clothing,  wood,  &'c.,  there.  On  our  return  the  sledge  was  again  broken,  but  it  was  nevertheless  hauled 
into  camp  for  repairs.  The  load,  however,  was  abandoned  at  the  point  where  the  sledge  became  crippled. 
This  is  indeed  discou' aging.  Worse,  it  is  terrible!  What  are  we  to  do?  Every  hope  which  we  may  have 
entertained  for  relief  this  autumn,  any  mitigation  of  our  hardships  which  we  may  have  exijccled,  have  been 
swept  away  in  the  last  few  days.  While  those  of  the  civilized  world — those  who  have  forgotten  us  in  our 
hour  of  need — are  enjoying  the  luxuries  with  which  that  land  is  teeming,  this  band  of  wretched,  shivering 
creatures  are  now  fighting  starvation,  and  are  about  to  face  the  frosts  of  a  third  arctic  winter.  Owing  to  the 
severity  of  the  storm,  the  hunters  did  not  go  out  to-day. 

Mondcy,  October  29,  1883. — The  temperature  has  risen  suddenly  to  +5.0  [ — 14.7°  C.J.  The  barometer 
has  been  placed  in  position  so  that  regular  observations  of  that  instrument  may  be  taken.  The  hunters  went 
out  this  morning  as  usual,  but  returned  without  having  seen  anything.  Long,  unfortunately,  fell  through  the 
ice  to  his  hips.  He  reached  the  hut  with  some  difiiculty,  where  he  was  subjected  to  a  drying  process  before 
he  could  again  venture  out.  I  made  an  issue  of  clothing  to-day.  The  garments  are  covered  with  ice,  and 
as  they  are  thawed  and  dried  by  being  placed  in  contact  with  the  warm  body,  the  process  is  necessarily  a 
very  trying  and  irksome  one.  The  "ledge  was  repaired  this  morning,  and  another  load  hauled  irom  Payer 
Harbor.  The  sledgers  complain  of  great  exhaustion  after  the  sivere  trials  of  to-dav,  some  are  almost 
prostrated.  In  consequence  of  being  subjected  to  greater  physical  jirain,  the  strongi:st  members  of  the  party 
will  probably  be  the  first  to  succumb  to  these  pri'  ations.  Our  ration  has  been  again  slightly  reduced;  those 
detailed  for  sledging,  however,  will  receive  two  ounces  extra  of  food  each  morning  before  leaving  the  iiut. 
In  order  that  our  minds  nay  be  lifted  from  this  mire  of  morbidness  and  prevented  from  sinking  into  a  state 
of  torpor  an  hour  or  so  is  devoted  each  ev'.nlug  to  reading  aloud.  Gardiner  reads  the  ISible;  Lieutenant 
Greely  the  Army  Regulations;  and  Rice  is  ])erusing  one  of  Hardy's  novels,  tiititled  "Two  in  a  Tower." 
With  the  exception  of  Gardiner's  Bible,  '.hese  books,  together  with  several  others,  were  found  in  the  wreck 
cache. 

Tuesday,  October  30,  1883. — The  temperature  has  again  fallen,  the  thermometer  registering  — 8.0 
[  —  22.2°  C.J.  The  indefatigable  hunters.  Long.  Jens,  and  Eskimo  Christiansen,  went  back  to  Rice  Straits 
this  morning,  taking  provisions  tor  three  days.  Thirteen  of  us  went  to  Cajie  Sabine  for  a  load  of  provisions; 
we  returned  to  the  house  at  3  p.  m.  Rice  having  volunteered  to  lead  a  party  to  Cape  Isabella,  to  secure  the 
144  pounds  of  canned  meat  cached  there  by  Sir  George  Nares  in  1875,  has  been  accepted  for  the  duty  by 


J 


/-^ 


THK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


463 


Lieutenant  Creely,  and  a  sletlge  is  being  prepared  by  Klison  for  that  purpose.  Rice  will  be  accompanied 
on  this  hazardous  journey  by  three  men,  who  have  not  yet  been  designated.  Bender  made  a  platform  of 
stones  in  the  middle  of  the  passage,  on  wiiich  the  i  ooking-lamps  will  be  i)laced  when  in  use.  He  also  dis- 
linguished  himself  this  morning  by  killing  a  fox  with  his  fist.  The  little  animal  was  found  with  its  head  in 
a  small  tin  can,  and  its  capture  was  easily  eft'ected. 

An  estimate  of  the  [jrovisions  now  on  hand  places  the  approximate  limit  of  their  consumption  at  March 
lo.  This  is  computed  on  the  basis  of  an  issue  of  about  15  ounces  to  each  man  per  diem.  Subjected  as  we 
necessarily  are  to  hard  work,  cold,  and  dampness,  how  long,  we  ask  ourselves,  can  we  exist  on  this  meager 
allowance  of  food? 

U'fi/)ii'si/iiy,  Oitohi-f  31,  1883. — Thank  (iod  !  the  last  of  our  supplies  are  now  safely  housed.  The  one 
remaining  load  was  brought  into  camp  this  evening.  The  whale-boat  which  we  had  abandoned  on  Septem- 
ber 12  was  found  to  have  drifted  ilown  on  tiie  large  floe  on  which  it  had  been  left,  and  to  have  lodged 
between  Brevoort  Island  and  the  main  land  (Cape  Sabine).  It  has  been  broken  up,  and  will  be  used  for 
fuel  during  the  winter.  To  think  of  using  it  now  (even  were  it  in  good  condition)  as  a  means  of  crossing 
Smith  Sound  would  bo  worse  than  madness. 

The  rations,  except  bread  and  raw  meat,  will  be  issued  weekly  in  bulk.  Cloudberries  were  issued  to 
the  messes  this  evening.  The  Swedish  expeditions  use  these  berries  largely  as  an  anti-scorbutic,  and  Nor- 
denskiijld  highly  reconmiends  them  for  use  in  arctic  exploration.  Dr.  Pavy  narrowly  escaped  freezing  his 
feet  this  evening.  When  crossing  the  ice-foot,  on  our  return  fr'""  Sabine,  he  fell  into  the  water,  and  during 
the  long  walk  to  the  hut  he  sutfered  intensely.  Cloudy  weather,  light  westerly  wind,  and  temperature  +2,0 
I  —  16.7°  C.].     Lieutenant  (Iree'y  detailed  Schneider  for  cook. 

Tlmruiay,  Nin'cmlxr  i,  1883. — Weather  fair;  minimum  temperature  last  night,  —4.0  [  — 2o.o°C.|. 
Lieutenant  Kislingbury  is  (juite  ill,  presumably  from  the  effects  of  overwork  while  assisting  with  the  hst  load 
yesterday,  i'avy  thinks  the  strain  may  result  in  rupture;  in  any  event  it  will  be  serious.  He  fainted  twice 
this  evening  while  the  doctor  was  making  an  examination  of  the  injured  parts.  Poor  fellow  I  he  is  entirely 
hel|)less,  and  is  dependent  on  his  comiianions  for  assistance.  Elison  prepared  the  small  four-man  sledge 
for  the  contemplated  trip  of  Rice  to  Cajie  Isabella.  The  rest  of  us  did  nothing  but  mope  in  our  bags. 
Frederick  was  detailed  with  Linn  and  Elison  to  accompany  Rice.  I  issued  them  provisions  for  eight  days ; 
at  the  end  of  this  time  we  hope  to  have  them  again  in  our  midst.  Schneider  was  fortunate  enough  to  shoot 
a  white  fox  this  morning  which  he  espied  prowling  about  our  camp  in  quest  of  a  portion  of  our  scanty 
supply  of  provisions.  Bender  has  made  a  small  sheet-iron  stove  on  which  our  cooking  will  be  done  in  the 
future.  The  barrels  and  boxes  found  in  the  Proteus  caches,  together  with  our  boats,  oars,  &:c.,  will  be  used 
for  fuel.  Lieutenant  Greely  decided  to  reduce  our  rations,  to  take  effect  to-day,  in  accordance  with  the 
following  list : 


Ounces. 

Meat 4.  00 

Bread 6.50 

Beef  extract .26 

Lard .26 

Butter .49 

Soup .64 

Rice .09 

Peas .  22 

Corn .  19 


Ounces. 

Carrots ..  o.  10 

Tomatoes .32 

Rasins .16 

Pickles .42 

Milk .  19 

Extract  cotTee .43 

Extract  chocolate .  19 

Potatoes 40 


This  makes  but  little  more  than  14  ounces  of  food  daily  per  man,  on  which  we  will  be  compelled  to 
sustain  life  (if  possible)  after  having  endured  the  severest  of  trials. 

Friday,  Nrn'onber  2,  1883. — Cloudy  weather;  minimum  temperature  for  last  night,  —9.2  1  —  22.9°  ^-l- 
Rice,  Linn,  Elison,  and  Frederick  started  at  8  a.  m.  for  Cape  Isabella,  taking  with  them  the  large  four-man 
sleeping-bag  and  provisions  for  eight  days.  They  will  have  no  protection  for  their  bag  at  night  except  what 
will  be  furnished  them  by  a  wall-tent  fly.  I  shot  a  blue  fox  this  morning  in  the  vicinity  of  our  old  camp ; 
weight,  3J/2  pounds.  Kalston  shot  a  white  one  near  our  present  habitation  this  evening  which  weighs  4^ 
pounds.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  is  slowly  improving  in  health.  The  cooks  prepared  our  evening  meal  over 
the  small  stoves  made  by  Bender  yesterday.  The  manner  in  which  this  work  was  performed  speaks  volumes 
for  the  new  stoves,  and  the  result  is  highly  gratifying  to  every  one;  and  the  amount  of  fuel  consumed  was 


4G4 


TllK  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  EXI'KDITION. 


i        i 


»'>    iff 


^>i      k»i.,.     :l 


small,  and  the  time  cmployeil  in  l)rint;in),'  the  stews  to  the  boiling-point  was  only  forty-eight  minutes.  If 
strict  economy  in  the  use  of  our  fuel  is  iiratticed  the  barrels  should  last  us  for  over  eighty  days. 

SiUiiniiiy,  Ninrmber  i,  1S83. — The  weather  has  been  clear  and  bright  all  day  ;  minimum  temperature, 
—9. J  \  —  i2.(f  C.|.  At  8  a.  m.  I,ong  returned  from  Rice  Straits  for  a  fresh  su|)|)ly  of  provisions  with  which 
to  continue  his  hunting  operations.  He  reports  having  killed  one  seal  of  about  seventy-five  pounds  weight. 
Notwithstaniling  the  low  temperature  and  his  weak  condition,  the  noble  fellow  is  indefatigable  in  his  efforts 
to  procure  game  with  which  to  prolong  the  lives  of  his  companions.  Jewell  is  feeling  (juite  ill  from  the 
ejects  of  the  severe  labor  which  he  has  performed  during  the  last  few  weeks.  His  constitution  is  evidently 
a  weak  one.  Israel  made  an  observation  for  latiluile,  but  deferred  its  computation.  Our  meager  diet  h.is 
jiroduced  anythmg  but  a  salutary  etiTect  on  the  minds  and  feelings  of  our  party. 

Siiiii/iiy,  Xovcmlur  4,  1883. — A  huge  hard-bread  pudding  for  the  morning  meal  made  us  all  feel  as 
happy  as  possible  for  a  few  hours.  The  sense  of  repletion  to  the  stomach  after  eating  is  something  of  the 
dim  jiast,  and  this  terrible  gnawing  hunger  which  is  ever  present  is  fast  driving  us  mad.  I  wonder  if  we 
will  retain  control  over  our  minds  (certainly  not  over  our  tongues)  throughout  the  trying  period  which  seems 
inevitable  to  us  now.  Long  started  back  to  Rice  Straits  at  8  a.  m.,  taking  with  him  provisions  for  five  davs 
more.  At  the  end  of  that  time  we  arc  to  go  down  with  the  large  sledge  and  brin^  back  his  tent,  sleeping- 
bags,  and  game.  Long  saw  the  tracks  of  two  bears,  which  had  evidently  been  traveling  together,  when  he 
was  walking  yesterday  between  Rice  Straits  and  Camp  Clay.  They  came  from  the  direction  of  Clarence 
Head.  As  our  hut  is  but  imperfectly  ventilated,  the  dense  smoke  produced  while  breakfast  was  being  pre- 
pared gave  us  all  a  severe  headache.  At  the  same  time  nearly  every  one  complained  of  an  oppressive 
sense  of  dizziness  from  its  efiects. 

This  being  the  Sabbath,  the  olil  axiom,  '"the  better  the  day,  the  better  the  deed,"  was  exemplified,  as 
fiir  as  lay  in  our  power,  by  laying  a  foundation  for  tiie  new  commissary  store-house.  It  abuts  on  the  south 
end  of  our  house  ;  its  size  will  be  about  8  by  10  feet  [2.4'"  by  3.0'"),  and  the  one  enfance  will  be  from  the 
outside  alley  or  jiassage  way.  The  old  store-house  is  not  at  all  secure,  some  one  having  again  broken  in. 
I'oxes  are  ((uite  numerous  about  our  cncamimient;  we  partook  of  a  stew  this  morning  made  from  them, 
.ind  pronounced  it  excellent.     Temperature,  — 25.7  [—33.1°  C.].     Weather  clear  and  calm. 

Monday,  Ninrmhn- i^,  1883. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature, —20.0  [  — 28.9°  C.|.  The  tem- 
perature inside  the  hut  ranges  from  ■\-2\  to  +36  [  —4.4°  C.  to  +2'2°C.].  It  reaches  the  latter  point,  however, 
only  when  the  meals  are  being  prepared.  This  enables  us  to  feel  very  comfortable  (?)  at  all  times.  Our 
room  is  illuminated  during  tlie  day  by  a  small  blubber  lam[),  which  emits  a  flame  about  half  the  size  of  an 
ordinary  tallow  candle  and  about  the  same  power  or  intensity.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  is  recovering  slowly 
from  the  strain  which  he  sustained  a  few  days  ago.  All  the  members  of  the  party  are  growing  weak  from  the 
effects  of  this  slow  starvation.  It  is  perceptible,  not  alone  in  their  wan,  pinched  faces,  but  also  in  their  heavy 
and  uncertain  gait.  The  construction  of  the  commissary  store-house  was  completed  to-day,  and  all  the 
provisions,  except  the  blubber  and  a  few  barrels  of  bread,  were  moved  in.  Bender  modified  the  chimney  or 
ventilator  so  that  the  smoke  could  escape  more  freely. 

Tuesday ,  Norf inhcr  G,  1S83. — Clear  weather,  fresh  northwest  winds,  and  tem[)erature  —  21.0  [ — 29.4°  C.]. 
The  snow-wall  about  the  house  is  not  jjrogressing  as  rapidly  as  I  would  wish,  but  as  all  have  grown  so  very 
weak,  severe  labor  cannot  in  reason  be  expected  from  the  poor  fellows.  I  made  an  examination  of  the 
mixed  tea  and  sugar  founil  in  the  English  cache  at  Payor  Harbor,  and  discovered  that  it  had  greatly  dete- 
riorated from  the  effects  of  dampness  and  exposure.  Our  conversation  now  naturally  turns  on  such  subjects 
as  cooking;  the  good  and  indifferent  restaurants  that  we  have  known,  and  the  good  dishes  which  we  have 
enjoyed.  No  person  seems  to  remember  that  he  ever  ate  anything  which  was  not  good.  No  foxes  have 
been  seen  for  several  days.  One  suggests,  as  a  solution  to  their  sudden  disappearance,  that  they  were 
frightened  by  our  dirty  faces  and  disreputable  looking  clothing.  An  excellent  stew  of  seal  meat  this  evening 
caused  us  to  forget  our  i)hysical  ills  for  a  short  time. 

Wednesday,  JS'in'cmbcr  1,  1883. — Christiansen  returned  from  Rice  Strait  this  morning.  He  was  sent 
in  by  Long,  who  recjuests  that  the  sledge  be  sent  down  to-morrow  to  remove  his  eciuipments  to  Camp 
Clay.  His  withdrawal  from  the  hunting  grounds  before  the  date  previously  agreed  upon  is  owing  to 
the  prevailing  high  winds,  which  keep  the  game  out  of  sight. 

I  issued  tlic  provisions  for  the  coming  week.  I  had  estimated  the  weight  of  the  blubber  at  two  hundred 
pounds,  but  by  ai  lual  weight  I  find  that  it  exceeds  my  estimate  by  about  ninety  pounds.  Minimum  temper- 
ature last  night,  —20.3  [—29.1°  C.]. 


If 


THK  LADY  I'ltANKLIN  BAY  KXPKIHTIOX. 


465 


Thiirsifiiy,  jYmYw/'i-rP,,  1 8S3. — T.ight  winds  from  the  south  and  a  temperature  of  — 3 1 .5  [—35.3"  ^'-l  did  not 
tend  to  jiroduco  agreeable  iniiiressions  on  the  men.  Notwithstanding  the  severity  of  the  weather,  liowever, 
a  party  under  the  leadersiiip  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  ( nmprisnig  Dr.  I'avy,  Jewell,  ISalor,  Ellis,  Whisler, 
Christiansen,  anil  myself,  started  at  7  a.  m.  with  the  large  sledge  for  Riie  Strait.  At  10.30  we  had  readied 
the  tent  and  were  iomev.hat  disappointed  on  learning  that  the  seal  rejiortcd  some  days  ago  by  Long  was 
the  only  one  killetl.  Returning  with  thoir  effects  we  reached  Camp  Clay  at  3,15  p.  m.  In  atldiliou  to  the 
excessively  hard  labor  of  hauling  a  loailed  sledge  through  the  deep  "snow,  the  men  suffered  greatly  front 
the  effects  of  a  burning  thirst,  and  on  reaching  cam[)  were  well-nigh  exhausted.  An  issue  of  hot  rum  was 
made  immediately  on  our  return,  and  at  no  time  within  our  recollei  tion  was  it  fwr  more  welcome  than  on 
this  occasion. 

Schneider  was  detected  in  the  store-house  under  very  suspicious  circumstances,  and  was  openly  charged 
with  having  stolen  provisions,  He, of  course,  vehemently  [irotested  that  he  was  innocent,  but  the  fact  of 
his  being  intoxicated  from  rum  surrei)titiously  obtained,  combined  with  other  circumstances,  rendered  his 
guilt  only  too  obvious.  (Ireat  indignation  is  felt  by  the  men,  and  their  feelings  have  been  expressed  in 
language  somewhat  emphatic.  He  has  been  relieved  from  the  duties  of  cook  and  lieiuler  detailed  in  his 
place. 

Friday,  y<'rem/<er  <),  1883. — Matters  are  growing  worse  and  worse.  It  is  said  that  honor  exists  among 
thieves;  if  so,  in  our  party,  where  every  man  is  expected  to  perform  his  part  with  just  and  honorable  motives, 
no  dishonest  action  should  be  noted.  But  it  appears  that  hunger  drives  from  the  mind  all  the  nobler  attri- 
butes that  it  may  have  jjossessed,  and  places  it  on  the  plane  in  <  ommon  v.ith  the  lower  anituals.  We  do 
not  know  whom  to  trust  in  this  dire  extremity,  conse(iue;:tly  none  in  the  future  will  be  trusted.  .V  can  of 
condensed  milk  was  found  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  in  the  old  commissary  store-house  this  morning.  It 
had  been  concealed  by  the  thief  under  a  large  block  of  snow,  and  an  attempt  had  been  made  to  open  it 
with  a  blunt-pointed  knife.  The  contents  of  the  can,  however,  are  intact.  The  marks  made  by  the  knife 
in  the  attempt  to  open  the  can  correspond  perfectly  with  the  saw-like  edge  of  Schneider's  knife.  Whether 
or  not  he  used  this  knife  for  that  particular  purpose  is  a  matter  of  conjecture  among  us.  Susi)i(ion,  however, 
naturally  points  to  him  in  consequence  of  his  perfidy  of  yesterday.  Clear  weather;  temperature,  —50.0° 
[-34.4°  C.]. 

Sattiniay,  Noi'ember  lo,  1883. — Those  who  were  lying  av  ake  at  midnight  were  startled  by  the  sound 
of  approaching  footsteps  through  the  crisp  snow.  The  next  moment  Rice  entered  the  room,  but  from  the 
effects  of  exhaustion  he  was  unable  to  speak  for  some  time.  At  last,  and  in  tremulous  tones,  the  ominous 
words:  "  Elison  is  dying!"  brought  all  to  an  upright  position  in  their  bags.  After  receiving  a  small  drink 
of  rum  he  stated  how  the  party  had  reached  Cape  Isabella  on  the  evening  of  the  third  day,  ai)[)arently  in 
good  condition,  and  hopeful  of  the  successful  issue  of  their  undertaking.  But  on  starting  back  Llison  had 
become  exhausted,  and  in  consequence  both  hands  and  feet  were  frozen,  despite  all  the  efforts  of  his  lom- 
panions.  His  limbs  were  placed  in  contact  with  the  warm  bodies  of  Rice  and  the  otlicrs,  but  without  avail. 
He  was  carried  in  their  arms,  and  when  this  became  intolerable  he  was  dragged  on  the  sledge  until  Eskimo 
Point  was  neared.  Then  Rice  decided  that  the  abandonment  of  die  meat  was  necessary  to  insure  the 
saving  of  Elison's  life.  This  was  accordingly  done,  and  one  of  the  Springfield  rifles  was  left  standing  upright 
beside  the  cache  to  mark  the  spot.  From  Cape  Isabella  to  this  point  they  had  make  double  trips.  They 
struggled  slowly  along  until  the  little  bay  just  west  of  Rosse  Bay,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  low  narrow 
neck  of  land,  was  reached.  Here  they  halted,  and  after  consulting  with  his  comrades.  Rice,  the  noble 
fellow,  had  started  without  resting,  to  walk  to  Camp  Clay.  Nothing  has  passed  his  lips  since  yestertiay, 
except  a  small  piece  of  frozen  meat,  which  lie  took  in  his  hands  on  leaving  his  companions. 

At  4.30  a.  m.  Christiansen  and  myself  started  out  with  a  few  tempting  articles  for  the  ilying  man  and 
his  two  suffering  companions.  The  large  sledge,  with  seven  or  eight  men  under  the  commantl  of  Lieutenant 
Lockwood,  was  to  leave  camp  at  6  o'clock.  On  leaving  the  hut  Rice  told  ine  that  Elison  would  in  all 
probability  have  passed  away  before  succor  could  reach  him,  and  that  1  would  most  likely  meet  Linn  and 
Frederick  on  their  way  home  with  the  sledge. 

The  darkness  was  intense  when  we  started,  and  Christiansen  and  myself  floundered  about  among  the 
hummocks  and  through  the  deep  snow  for  some  time  without  advancing  very  far.  We  stumbled  frequently, 
and  often  fell  on  the  rubble,  receiving  serious  bruises.  The  monotony  of  the  tramp  was  sometimes  broken 
by  my  dusky  companion,  who  uttered  half  suppresseil  Englis'.i  oatiis  whenever  he  fell  over  a  projecting 
point  of  ice.  About  noon  we  reached  the  bay  and  found  our  three  brave  comrades  huildled  together  in  the 
Jl.  Mia.  393 30 


Ml 


ll 


466 


TIIK  LADY  FUANKMN  I5AY   KXrEDITION. 


r.i 


r; 


liiilii' 


one  slcc'pir.^baj;  in  a  scniifrozen  state.  P'lison  was  still  alive  and  sonu-what  better  than  when  Rire  bad 
left  him.  l.inn  and  Frederick  were  very  weak,  and  both  hail  frozen  their  fares  anil  extremities  ((uite  severely. 
After  much  ditViculty  I  succeeded  in  making  a  fire  in  the  rocks  above  them,  and  cooked  a  meat  stew,  which 
they  thoroughly  relished.  Later  I  made  hot  and  tielii  ious  drinks,  whi(  h  gave  new  life  to  their  attenuated 
frames,  and  in  a  measure  restored  the  sluggish  circulation.  F.lison  is  a  |)itiable  sight,  with  his  face  distorted 
and  frozen,  and  his  limbs  ice  like  and  useless.  He  repeatedly  imiilorcd  me  to  kill  him  that  the  others  might 
be  saved.  1  tried  to  cheer  him  with  the  assuranc  e  that  we  would  all  escape  from  these  inhospitable  shores 
and  return  to  our  homes  together,  but,  shaking  his  head  sadly  he  would  rejjeat  in  a  low,  pleailing  voice, 
•'  Please  kill  me,  won't  you ! " 

I  hail  contemplated  placing  F.lison  on  the  sledge,  and  with  the  assistance  of  l.inn  and  P'redcrick  to 
haul  him  back  towards  Camp  Clay  until  the  relief  party  under  I.ockwood  was  met  with,  but  on  conununicat- 
ing  to  them  my  intentions,  they  assured  me  that  tliey  could  do  tK)thing,  in  fact  they  did  not  believe  that 
they  could  walk  without  assistance.  There  was  now  but  one  course  left  for  me  to  pursue,  so  making  the 
poor  fellows  as  comlbrtable  as  possible  I  turned  back  with  my  faithful  ally,  Christiansen,  to  face  the  howl- 
ing winds  then  blowing  furiously.  When  near  Rice  Straits  our  eyes  were  gladdened  by  the  appearance  of 
Lockwood  and  his  party,  of  Pavy,  Jewell,  Salor,  F.llis,  Schneider,  and  Jens,  who  had  been  traveling  hard 
since  6  o'clock  this  morning.  Christiansen  and  I  took  our  places  in  the  drag  ropes  and  returned  with  them 
to  the  south  side  of  Rosse  Hay,  where  we  encamped  at  6.  lo  p.  m.  The  gale  has  been  terrific  in  its  velocity, 
and  considering  their  weak  state  it  is  surprising  how  the  men  have  endured  the  severe  strain  while  traveling 
under  its  influence  to-day.  Just  before  leaving  the  trio  in  their  frozen  sleeping-bag  near  the  head  of  F.lison 
Bay,  I  observed  a  fox  walk  deliberately  to  the  bag  in  which  they  ^^ere  lying,  and  attempt  to  enter.  I  aimed 
a  blow  at  him  with  the  axe  which  was  close  at  hand,  but  missed ;  before  1  could  strike  again  he  hail  escaped 
to  the  rocks  above. 

Sunday,  Nmrmlxr  ii,  1883. — We  obtained  very  little  sleep  last  night,  owing  to  the  low  temperature 
and  the  continuance  of  the  gale.  The  cook  was  called  at  4.30  a.  m.,  and  at  6  o'clock  I  started  forward 
alone  to  prepare  breakfast  for  Klison,  Linn,  and  Frederick,  while  the  party  was  to  break  camp  and  follow 
immediately  with  the  sledge.  The  poor  fellows  had  not  slejjt  during  my  absence,  and  when  I  reached  them 
they  were  shivering  with  the  cold.  It  is  almost  surprising  that  the^  survived  the  cold  of  last  night.  They 
were  in  a  half-starved,  balffro/.en  condition,  and  the  merciless  storm  had  been  incessantly  beating  down  on 
their  unprotected  covering  of  buffalo-skin.  I  stopped  for  a  moment  to  contemplate  the  scene.  Nothing 
could  be  more  utterly  desolate,  dreary,  and  forsaken  than  the  spot  on  which  those  brave  fellows  were  lying. 
Without  shelter  save  such  as  was  aftbrded  by  a  small  tent-fly,  their  bag  was  lying  on  a  narrow  terrace  only 
a  few  feet  above  the  ice-foot  and  the  tides,  where  it  was  fully  exposed  to  the  fury  of  the  winds.  Above  them 
and  extending  to  the  summit  of  the  slope  was  a  chaotic  wilderness  of  rocks,  through  which  the  winds  had 
carried  great  quantities  of  loose  snow  and  heaped  it  about  this  place  of  refuge. 

The  alcohol  lamp,  with  which  I  attempted  to  prepare  their  breakfast,  refused  to  burn,  and  I  next  tried 
the  few  pieces  of  boat  which  they  had  brought  with  them  from  Eskimo  Point.  With  this  i  was  rather  more 
successful,  but  my  success  was  at  the  expense  of  my  poor  fingers,  which  were  burned  and  frosted  alternately. 
At  last  the  men  were  made  comparatively  happy  by  a  plate  of  warm  meat  stew,  which  occupied  their  time 
until  the  arrival  of  the  sledge. 

The  sleeping-bag  in  which  the  three  poor  fellows  were  lying  was  frozen  in  such  a  manner  that  it  had  to 
be  cut  from  top  to  bottom  with  a  knife  before  the  occupants  could  be  liberated.  F.lison  with  much  diffi- 
culty was  placed  in  a  small  dog-skin  sleeping-bag  and  warmly  wrapped  in  a  large  piece  of  canvas.  Linn 
and  Frederick  walked  painfully  about  for  a  few  minutes  to  stretch  their  stilifentd  and  frosted  limbs,  then 
started  to  walk  the  seventeen  miles  intervening  between  them  and  the  warmth  and  shelter  of  Camp  Clay. 
We  turned  homeward  with  the  sledge  at  9.30  a.  m.  At  Rosse  I5ay  we  stopped  for  a  few  moments  to  pick 
up  the  tent  and  sleeping-ba^js  which  Lockwood  had  left  in  camp.  All  day  long  we  tramped  slowly  but 
steadily  against  a  high  wind.  Occasionally  a  halt  was  made  to  change  the  position  of  F.lison,  or  to  give 
him  a  swallow  of  brandy,  which  was  about  the  only  thing  he  desired.  At  5  p.  m.  we  halted  at  the  northern 
entrance  to  Rice  Strait  to  prepare  some  refreshment.  The  wind  had  been  blowing  in  our  faces  while  passing 
up  the  strait,  and  in  consequence  every  one  was  so  thoroughly  chilled  and  benumbed  that  we  could  scarcely 
erect  the  tent.  When  it  was  finally  secured  L'.lison  was  taken  inside,  and,  under  the  influence  of  hopeful 
words  and  good-natured  chaflT,  regained  something  of  his  former  cheeifulness  of  manner. 

At  8.10  p.  m.  we  again  started  with  our  sledge.     On  entering  Buchanan  Strait  the  wind  subsided,  and 


\\  \\ 


p" 


TIIK  I-ADV  KUANKMN  ItAV   KXI'IODITIOX. 


467 


the  moon,  having  risci'  about  this  time,  shcil  its  soft  li^ht  over  the  l)arren  ice  fields,  making  the  night  one  of 
the  most  attractive  that  I  had  ever  known.  The  iron  houn<I  <oast.  the  chaotic  masses  of  |)uherixeti  iie  at 
its  border,  and  tiie  weird  si  ene  of  desohition  spreading  hke  a  pal!  about  us  on  every  side,  heightened  and 
intensified  the  forbidding  aspect  of  these  inhospitable  regions,  whii  h  had  never  before  seemeil  so  utterly 
<levoid  of  redeeming  i|ualities.  A  feeling  of  awe  seemed  to  have  taken  possession  of  the  [larty  while  it  moved 
forward  with  its  half-i:onscious  burden,  slowly  and  in  silenc  e. 

Momiiiy,  XinvM/'i-r  12,  i88,v— After  plodding  wearily  along  for  hours,  we  at  last  reache<l  Camp  Clay  at 
2.10  a.m.  Willing  hands  came  to  our  rescue,  and  tenderly  the  sledge  was  lifted  over  the  ice-foot  and  placed  on 
firm  footing  above.  (Ireat  was  the  rejoicing  over  our  safe  and  speeily  return.  Never  before  had  our 
wretched  hut  assumed  the  bright  and  cheerful  aspect  which  it  now  wore,  and  never  before  had  rough-bearded 
men  evinced  more  sym[iathy  in  feeling  an<!  tenderness  in  action  towards  a  crippled  comrade  than  did  our 
party.  Of  the  ( oiulition  of  the  party  on  arriving,  I  can  sjieak  only  of  myself.  I  was  probably  on  of  the 
strongest;  ami  at  no  time  in  my  life  were  my  i)hy.si(  a!  powers  ever  called  u|)on  to  sustain  a  trial  similar  to 
that  of  last  evening.  I'.ven  my  will-jjower  was  wavering,  and  in  another  hour  I  would  have  jirobably  sui- 
cumbed  to  exhaustion  and  the  increasing  cold. 

Dr.  Tavy  considers  the  amputation  of  I'.lison's  limbs  as  absolutely  necessary,  and  fears  that  the  process 
will  result  fatally  to  him.  .Assisted  by  the  ever-faithful  liiederbick  and  a  corps  of  tender-hearted  volunteers, 
he  worked  for  hours  to  alleviate  the  sufferings  of  the  injured  man.  I. inn  and  Frederick  arrived  at  4  p.m. 
yesterday,  both  badly  broken  down  physically.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  has  recovered  sutticiently  from  his 
accident  to  enable  him  to  walk  about  in  the  alley  of  our  hut.     Temperature,  — 34.5  [  —  ^ft.cf"  C.j. 

Tucsilay,  Novinibcr  13,  1883. — 'I'he  sun  is  many  degrees  below  the  southern  horizon,  and  i.s  daily  nioving 
farther  away;  even  at  midilay  the  light  which  we  receive  from  him  is  very  feeble.  The  weather  has  been 
clear,  and  the  moon  has  shone  brilliantly  all  day  ;  minimum  temiierature,  — 33.8  [—36.6°  C.J.  No  work  has 
been  ilone.  The  men  of  the  relief  party  are  resting  quietly,  and  are  entleavoriiig  to  recover  from  the  effects 
of  their  terrible  exposure  and  hardships.  Elison  is  in  a  very  critical  condition.  Rice,  1  inn,  and  Frederick, 
although  lame  and  sore  from  frost-bites  and  their  severe  labors  generally,  w  ill  most  likely  recover  under  a 
generous  treatment.  The  others  are  doing  well.  Biederbick  last  evening  shot  a  white  fox,  which  weighed 
5/^  pounds. 

Wednesday,  N<n'cmlict  14,  1883. — Clouily  and  disagreeable  weather,  together  with  a  raw  an<l  biting 
wind,  have  kept  us  confined  closely  to  the  house  all  d'y;  teniperatun  ,  —30.0  [  —  34.4°  C.J.  Nothing  has 
been  accomplished  to-day  tending  towards  our  comfort  for  the  win'-en  Naturally  enough,  consi<lering  the 
circumstances,  all  the  energy  has  disappeared  from  our  little  band  of  sufferers.  Our  bread  ration  was  reduced 
one-half  ounce  to-day — from  6  oz.  to  5^  oz.  I  issued  the  provisions  in  bulk  for  the  ensuing  week,  liied- 
erbick sits  up  with  F)lison  during  the  night  and  I'avy  watches  over  him  carefully  iluring  the  day.  He  is 
feeling  somewhat  better,  but  still  there  are  no  hopes  entertained  for  his  recovery. 

Thursday,  November  15,  1883. — Clear  weather;  fresh  westerly  wind,  and  a  temperature  of  —38.2 
[  —  39.0°  C]  caused  us  to  seek  the  seclusion  of  the  hut  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  We  worked,  how- 
ever, for  a  short  time  this  morning  on  the  commissary  store-house,  plastering  it  with  moiste  ned  snow,  so  as  to 
render  the  structure  stable  and  unyielding  to  the  gales  which  will  probably  visit  us  this  winter.  At  11  a.  m. 
the  temperature  rose  to  —33.5  [  —  36.4°  C.J.  Fllison  appears  to  be  improving  slowly.  There  is  evidence 
this  morning  that  some  person  entered  the  store-house  last  night  without  authority  for  so  doing. 

Friday,  Novembei  16,  1883. — The  wind  howled  dismally  about  our  habitation  yesterday  and  all  of  last 
night.  At  times  it  blew  with  great  velocity  and  threatened  our  destruction  by  well-nigh  unroofing  our  house. 
The  barometer  has  fallen  half  an  inch  [i2.7o"""J  in  the  last  twelve  hours,  and  a  corresponding  change  in 
the  temperature  has  also  taken  place.  The  minimum  temperature  last  night  was  —  22.0  [—30.0°  C.j,  but  at 
noon  to-day  it  had  risen  to  —12.0  [— 24.4*^  C.j.  The  spring  tides  overflowed  the  space  west  of  the  house 
bortlering  on  the  ice-foot,  and  the  water  rose  several  inches  on  the  outside  of  the  hut,  but  was  prevented 
from  flooding  us  inside  by  the  thickness  of  the  snow-bank  surrounding  the  buikling.  We  inclosed  the  vesti- 
bule and  put  on  a  canvas  roof,  securing  the  whole  with  moistened  snow  or  "mush,"  as  it  is  called  by  some, 
which,  freezing  quickly,  renders  the  walls  as  firm  as  if  hewn  from  solid  ice. 

Saturday,  Ninriiibfr  17,  1883. — Cloudy  weather,  light  westerly  winds,  and  temperature  —12.0 
[  —  24.4°  C.j;  minimum,  —28.0  [  —  33.3°  C.J.  I  placed  a  wooden  door  at  the  entrance  to  the  commissary 
Store-house,  and  as  an  adilitional  safeguard  supplied  it  with  a  lock  and  key  which  we  found  in  the  Proteus 
V^reck  cache.     This  we  hope  will  be  an  efliectual  bar  to  all  midnight  marauders.    The  patients  are  improving 


n 


I 


IfS 


i! 


til 

■I        '     ' 


,1   I!) 


m 


468 


THE  liADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  BXrEniflON. 


slowly  notwithstanding  tlie  small  a"U)unt  of  food  on  which  we  are  now  living.  We  are  doing  better  on 
this  low  diet  than  my  most  sanguine  hopes  had  ever  anticipated.  Our  eyes  and  lungs  are  very  much  affected 
by  the  thick  smoke,  which  is  unavoidable  in  cooking  with  damp  wood  and  with  a  stove  possessing  no  pipe 
for  conveying  it  away.  Hiederbick  is  suftering  with  a  swollen  fmger,  the  nature  of  wliich  is  similar  to  the 
felon  on  Gardiner's  finger. 

Lieutenant  Greely  entertained  us  this  fliorning  with  a  description  of  the  physical  conditions  of  North 
America,  in  which  he  is  well  versed.  In  his  remarks  he  confined  himself  principally  to  the  United  States. 
This  will  be  followed  by  lectures  on  astronomy  by  Israel,  and  on  natural  history,  physiology,  and  the  history 
of  France  by  Pavy.  The  evening's  entertainment  will  be  contributed  to  by  all  the  other  members  of  the 
party,  who  will  relate  their  early  experiences,  converse  on  various  subjects,  and  read  aloud  from  the  few 
books  in  our  possession. 

Siiiiday,  NinH-mbcr  i8,  1883. — Weather  cloudy;  light  westerly  '..inds;  minimum  temperature,  —14.0 
1  —  25.6°  C.J.  Rice  and  myself  placed  a  flag  (an  old  coat)  on  oui;  of  the  sjiare  oars  and  planted  it  on  the 
extreme  outer  point  of  this  peninsula,  where  it  may  readily  be  seen  by  any  relief  party  approaciiing  from 
Littleton  Island.  We  pre  still  using  water  from  the  small  lake  southeast  of  the  hut.  The  benefit  accruing 
to  us  through  its  use  cannot  be  calculated,  as  it  enables  us  to  economize  greatly  in  the  use  of  fuel. 

Momiay,  Noi'drbcr  19,  1883. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  temi)erature,  —35.2  [—37-3°  C.].  I  o[)ened 
the  remaining  barrel  of  dog-biscuit  to-dav  and  was  agreeably  surprised  to  find  all  e.xcept  a  few  pieces  in 
good  condition.  An  odor  of  nnistiness,  howevr,  pervades  this  entire  barrel  as  well  as  all  those  found  in  the 
English  cache.  It  is  in<leed  hard  to  be  compelled  to  subsist  on  food  which  an-  well-bred  dog  would  refuse. 
If  we  could  have  even  plenty  of  this  kind  we  would  not  mind  our  situation  so  much,  but  the  limited  (luantity 
on  which  we  are  now  living  is  nothing  more  than  an  aggravation. 

Long  and  Jens  each  shot  a  ibx  to-day.  Instead  of  being  issued  in  lieu  of  our  regular  meat  they  will 
be  added  to  our  Sunday  evening  meal.  The  intestines  of  these  animals,  and  in  fact  everything  of  them 
excej)t  the  skin,  is  used  in  oui  stews  and  eaten  by  the  famishing  party  without  the  slightest  feeling  of  repug- 
nance. The  invalids  appear  to  be  tloing  well;  Klison  especially  appears  in  a  cheerful  frame  of  mind,  consid- 
ering his  sufferings.  Some  person  who  did  not  fear  the  just  vengeance  of  an  outraged  party  was  heard  last 
night  fumbling  about  the  shelf  on  whicli  one  of  the  breail  boxes  was  kept.  A  match  was  at  once  struck, 
but  at  the  first  intimation  of  a  light  the  would-be  thief  slunk  into  his  bag  without  being  detected.  Night 
before  last  a  large  piece  of  chocolate  was  stolen  from  *h?  mess  stores  of  Long — the  cook  in  Lieutenant 
("■reely's  nii;ss. 

Tuesday,  AWe in htr  20,  1883. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  minimum  temperature,  —16.0  [  —  26.7°  C.J. 
No  work  has  been  done  on  tlie  house  to-day  owing  to  the  feeling  of  lassitude  so  ])revalent  in  our  party  of 
late.  The  sick  are  doing  as  well  as  can  be  exjjected,  considering  the  gloom  and  dampness  of  the  hut  and 
the  impoverished  state  of  their  systems  from  insufficient  nutrition.  Insiile  the  hut  the  temperature  ranges 
from  +14  to  +?5  [—10.0°  C.  to  —3.9°  C.J;  sometimes  it  rises  above  +32  [o-o"  tl.J  when  the  fire  is  lighted, 
but  falls  imnu'diately  when  it  is  extinguisheil. 

We  experience  the  greatest  discomfort  from  the  cold  and  find  it  necessary  at  times  to  exert  ourselves 
by  knocking  the  feet  together  in  a  most  frantic  manner  to  jirevent  them  from  freezing.  Our  bags  are  frozen 
firmly  to  the  ground,  and  the  hair  inside  is  filled  with  frost.  On  lying  down  at  night  the  warmth  of  our 
bodies  thaw.5  tiiis  frost,  and  the  moisture  thus  produced  is  absorbed  by  our  garments,  which  are  usually  sat- 
urated before  morning.  It  is  feared  that  this  exposure  will  sow  the  seeds  of  disease  which  can  never  be 
eradicated  from  our  systems. 

Jfh/ms/tiy,  Nincmhr  21,  1883. — Cloudy  and  disagreeable  weather;  tempeuuure,  —23.5  [  —  30,8°  C.J. 
A  fresh  westerly  wind  has  been  moaning  dismally  through  the  rocks  above  the  hut,  causing  us  to  shiver 
with  discomfort  and  dread. 

The  daily  routine  of  our  lives  in  this  wretched  hut  is  about  as  follows :  'i"he  cooks  (Frederick  and 
Long)  are  callet'  at  6  a.  ni.,  and  breakfast  is  usually  ready  at  7  o'clock,  and  is  always  eaten  by  all  except 
the  cooks  without  leaving  their  sleeping-bags.  When  this  is  over,  and  while  the  cooks  are  clearing  away 
the  refuse  of  the  meal,  the  conversation  becomes  general.  As  might  be  expected,  the  favorite  subjects  for 
discussion  are  cookery,  and  the  good  dishes  that  we  remember  to  have  partaken  of  in  the  past.  Between 
9  and  11  o'clock  Lieutenant  (Ireely  discourses  on  tlie  geography  of  the  United  States,  both  physical  and 
descriptive.  I  then  go  out  and  issue  provisions  to  the  cooks  for  the  following  day,  and  one  of  the  others 
goes  to  the  lake  to  cut  a  hole  throuijh  the  ice  to  provide  the  cooks  with  water  for  the  next  two  meals.    It 


THE  LADV  FRANKLIN  KAY  EXPEDITION. 


469 


is  also  the  duty  of  this  person  to  empty  the,  contents  of  the  large  urinal  in  the  alley.  At  2.30  ]).  ni.  the 
cooks  light  their  fire  for  the  preparation  of  dinner,  and  at  about  4  o'clock  the  meal  is  served.  We  then 
sit  up  and  converse  on  all  sorts  of  subjec-ts  until  6  o'clock,  when  the  readings  begin.  We  retire  usually 
betvcen  8  and  9  o'clock.  I  issued  provisions  to-day  for  the  coming  week,  exce])t  the  bread,  which  I  issue 
daily  to  avoid  extravagance.  '1  he  list  of  those  who  are  invalids  is  recorded  as  follows :  Lieutenant  Kisling- 
bury,  rupture ;  is  now  convalescent.  Henry,  toe  frost-bitten,  very  bad.  Klison,  both  upper  and  lower 
extremities  frozen  ;  condition  considered  critical  in  the  extreme,  (lardiner,  felon  on  forefinger;  is  improving 
slowly.  Linn,  rheumatism,  and  system  broken  down  from  recent  exposure ;  mind  also  atVected.  liiederbick, 
felon  on  forefinger;  condition  doubtful.  Salor,  lame  back,  but  is  able  to  go  out  occasionally.  Connell, 
very  weak  from  the  reduced  diet,  'v'ross,  foot  frost-bitten  ;  is  improving.  Uender  complains  fre((uently  of 
soreness  in  his  chest  and  of  lame  joinfs.  A  bounteous  repast  was  served  this  morning,  with  whic-h  every  one 
was  well  pleased.  It  consisted  of  !,eal-skin  and  fox  intestines,  together  with  moldy  dog-biscuit.  Nothing 
approaching  food  is  ever  wasted  with  us,  and  it  is  a  notorious  fact  that  the  cooks  are  not  over  careful  in 
cleansing  the  fox  intestines.  A  fox  was  seen  to-day,  but  was  too  wary  to  ajjiiroach  within  reach  of  our 
I'ady  guns. 

Tliiiisihy,  AWcinl'f)-  22,  1883. —  Long  and  Christiansen  each  shot  a  blue  fox  to-day.  I  walked  along 
the  ice-foot  bordering  the  peninsula  in  search  of  these  little  animals,  but  saw  nothing.  The  sky  has  been 
beautifully  clear  and  cloudless,  the  weather  calm,  and  the  temperature  —28.0  [—33  3°  C.].  Standing  on 
the  highest  point  of  the  peninsula  to-tlay  I  could  discern  the  darl:  outlines  of  the  distant  (Ireenland  coast. 
To  my  intense  satisfaction  no  water-clouds  were  anywhere  visible  in  that  direc'iion,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  this  lo,;  temperature,  acting  in  conjunction  with  the  slack  tides,  will  close  the  sound  early  and  provide  a 
bridge  for  our  relief  and  deliverance  from  this  horrible  bondage.  .Another  stew  serveil  this  evening  was 
thickened  with  the  rotten  dog-biscuit.  I  believe  that  the  hungriest  cur  on  the  streets  would  refuse  this 
wretched  apology  for  food. 

Frii/tiy,  \inr>ii/i<'r  22i,  1883. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  minimum  tem])erature,  —41.2  (— 4o.7°C.|. 
Long  and  Christiansen  each  again  shot  a  fox.  Nothing  worthy  of  note  has  been  done  except  that  another 
hole  has  been  cut  through  the  reservoir,  and  water  to  the  depth  of  nine  inches  [229"""]  was  found.  This 
will  be  sufh(;ient  to  su|)ply  us  for  a  long  time  with  all  the  water  needed. 

Siitiiiiiiiy,  /Vtnriii/>rr  24,  1883. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  minimum  tcmi)erature,  —26.0  [  —  32.2°  C.|. 
Ail  manner  of  schemes  for  our  future  welfare  are  being  discussed.  Ralston  is  trying  to  ])ersuade  some  of 
his  companions  that  they  should  join  him  in  establishing  a  colony  at  some  place  in  Kansas.  Rice  and 
myself  are  also  discussing  some  schemes  which  as  yet  are  only  visionary,  but  which  we  trust  will  assume 
some  tangible  form  as  soon  as  a  favor.able  opportunity  occurs  for  their  i onsideration.  Krederic-k,  or  "Shorty," 
as  he  is  more  familiarly  known,  gave  us  this  evening  n  i)rief  but  very  interesting  sketch  of  his  life. 

SiiH(/ay,Ntnrnil>(r  25,  1883. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  temperature,  —25.0  [—31.7°  C.|.  No  water- 
cloutls  in  the  direction  of  the  Greenland  coast  being  visible  to-day,  our  confidence  in  the  freezing  over  of  the 
sound  at  an  early  date  has  been  restored.  Should  this  occur,  we  will  be  enabled  to  etVeci  our  escape  as  soon 
as  the  sun  returns.  Saturday  evenings  are  set  apart  for  the  narration  of  personal  adventures  and  experiences, 
and  are  the  most  enjoyable  and  interesting  evenings  that  we  have.  (!hristiansen  shot  a  large  blue  fox  which 
weighed  41^  pounds. 

Afomfiiy,  Noreiii/uT  2C>,  1883. — Cle.ar;  lij^ht  westerly  winds;  temperature,  — 36.5  [— 38. 1°  C. |.  Albert 
Head,  Cape  Camperdown,  and  die  remainder  of  Hat  he  Island,  were  distinctly  outlined  against  the  iiorliicni 
sky  at  noon.  Jens  thinks  that  water-spaces  exist  near  the  middle  of  Kane  Sea,  but  he  is  of  the  opinion  that 
Smith  Sound  is  frozen  over  between  Cape  Sabine  anil  Cairn  I'oint.  I  also  went  to  the  hill  to  confirm  his 
impressions,  and,  from  my  observations  while  there,  ix)nsider  the  indications  favorable  for  our  release,  if  the 
colli  continues  and  no  gales  appear  to  break  the  ice. 

Tiicsdity,  AWniii'ir  27,  1883. — Clear  weather;  minimum  temperature,  —43.5  [—41.9°  ('.].  .\  westerly 
wind,  which  blew  with  a  velocity  of  twenty  miles  per  hour  [8.9"'  jier  second],  sprang  up  sudtleniy  this  even- 
ing. I  sent  Christiansen  to  iiic  little  elevation  above  Camp  Clay  for  the  ])urpose  of  observing  the  <()nditiun 
of  the  sound.     He  reported  on  iiis  return  that  the  ice,  in  his  opinion,  was  firmly  frozen  across  the  channel. 

IViiiiii-siiay,  NiTcm/'i-r  28,  1883. — Cear  weather,  with  light  westerly  winds;  temperature,  —34.0 
|— 3f).7°  C.|.  1  issued  provisions  to-day  lor  the  ensuing  week.  We  are  all  looking  anxiously  forward  to  the 
royal  feast  which  occurs  to-morrow — Thanksgiving  day;  Rice,  3  pounds;  raisins,  2!  j  pounds;  lard,  yf,  pound; 
milk,  1  can;  extract  of  coffee,  i  can;  and  extract  of  chocolate,  1^^  cans,  will  be  issued  extra  to-morrow  to 


470 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


celebrate  the  occasion.  This  Thanksgiving  will  indeed  be  a  great  change  from  others  held  in  memory. 
Where  will  we  be  next  year  at  this  time?  I  find  that  a  bag  of  bread  which  I  had  estimated  at  70  pounds 
has  exceeded  my  estimate  by  46  pounds.  A  seal  has  also  weighed  8  pounds  more  than  my  estimate  had 
placed  on  him.  I  hope  that  all  our  weights  will  come  out  aliead  as  these  have  done.  Another  fox  was 
seen  near  the  hut  this  morning,  but  he  escaped  to  the  rocks  before  a  gun  could  be  'irought.  Jens  has 
been  working  on  a  trap  for  the  capture  of  foxes. 

Lieutenant  Lock  wood  has  made  a  proposition  to  the  paity  to  this  effect :  Each  person  will  make  out  a 
bill  of  fare  which  he  (the  lieutenant)  will  record  in  shorthand.  These  bills  will  be  consolidated,  and  a  copy 
furnished  to  each  man.  If  we  are  fortunate  enough  to  escape  with  our  lives  from  this  place,  each  member 
of  the  expedition  will  be  expected  to  adhere,  as  closely  as  possible,  to  his  bill  of  fare  on  each  succeeding 
birthday,  as  circumstances  may  allow. 

Thursday^  Ntn<emhcr  29,  1883. — Clouilv  weather;  light  westerly  winds;  temperature,  — 14.0  [  —  25.6°  C.]. 
The  day  has  been  passed  pleasently  enougi;  in  fact  I  think  I  may  say  with  ixrfect  sincerity  that  it  has 
been  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  of  my  life.  A  double  ration  of  coffee,  which  was  served  for  breakfast,  will 
ever  be  held  in  grateful  remembrance.  At  2.30  p.  m.  a  stew  of  fox  meat  and  bacon  was  served ;  following 
this  came  rice  pudding,  chocolate,  and  seven  ounces  of  bread.  Twenty-five  gills  of  rum  and  twelve  lemons 
were  used  by  Frederick  in  making  a  punch.  'I'his  was  pronounced  by  all  as  being  the  best  of  its  kind. 
After  the  punch  had  been  disposed  of,  songs  and  stories  filled  the  interval  until  midnight,  when  we  retired 
feeling  better  and  more  hopeful  of  the  future  than  we  had  felt  for  weeks.  For  the  first  ti!ne  since  we  were 
tlrifting  in  Kane  Sea,  we  can  feel  a  sense  of  rei)letion  after  eating. 

On  examination  of  the  bags  of  bread  found  in  the  l^oUiis  cache,  I  discover  that  one  had  been  wet,  and 
is  row  ;overed  with  a  blue  mold.     It  will  be  used  in  small  quantities  to  imjirove  (?)  the  stews. 

Friifay,  A'iri'cmfvr 2,0,  1883. — The  snow  has  been  falling  rajiiilly  all  day;  temperature,  — 5.0  [  —  20.6°  ('.]. 
A  disagreeable  drip  of  moisture  from  the  roof  of  the  hut  is  the  result  of  this  hifi;h  temperature.  It  falls  like 
rain  on  our  sleeping-bags,  and  the  resulting  dampness  inside  renders  our  condition  wretched  in  the  extreme. 
The  paity  is  feeling  somewhat  dull  to-day.  This  lethargic  condition  is  jjrobably  due  to  the  over-feeding 
of  yesterday.  If  it  should  be  proved  that  this  is  true,  we  may  rest  a.ssured  that  the  complaint  will  not  visit 
us  often. 

Suiit/uy,  Deciinhcr  i,  1883. — Light  westerly  winds  and  clearing  weather;  temperature,  —7.2  [  —  21.8°  C.J. 
During  the  evening  the  wind  veered  to  the  east  and  blew  with  great  velocity  from  that  direction.  The 
house  was  shaken  to  its  foundation,  and  the  flying  snow  was  driven  underneath  the  eilge  of  the  boat  into 
the  interior  of  the  hut.  The  sound  is  now  entirely  open  as  far  north  as  Cape  Albert,  and  the  roar  of  the 
grinding  pack  is  heard  by  us  while  Iving  in  our  sleeping-bags.  The  high  hopes  which  we  had  entertained 
of  escai)ing  from  this  place  by  the  frozen  sound  have,  for  the  present,  been  dashed  to  the  ground.  The 
drip  from  the  roof  still  continues,  and  our  sleeping-bags  are  now  thoroughly  drenched,  'i'he  suffering 
incident  to  this  condition  of  clothing  and  bags  in  low  temperatures  is  not  within  my  jKiwer  to  describe;  it  can 
be  imagined  only.     The  doctor  thinks  that  the  hands  and  feet  of  Elison  will  have  to  undergo  amputation. 

Sinii/ay,  Dfii-iiiln-r  2,  1883. — The  higli  wind  mentioned  yesterday  having  increased  to  a  gale  during  the 
night,  physical  sufferings  of  the  severest  nature  were  thereby  caused,  ^\'e  momentarily  expected  our  only 
l)rotection — the  boat — to  Ije  carried  bodily  away  by  the  storm,  but  it  sustained  its  reputation  for  stability 
and  remained  where  it  had  been  placed  some  weeks  ago.  The  snow  drifted  in  under  its  edges  and  covered 
the  six  men,  including  myself,  in  my  section  of  the  house  to  a  deptli  of  over  a  .''^ot  [.3'"].  It  was  a  most 
miserable  night,  and  one  which  I  shall  long  remember  from  the  sufferings  which  xere  experienced.  The 
roof  of  the  vestibule  was  blown  away,  an-'  tlie  space  between  the  walls  was  filled  with  snow,  and  our  only 
door  to  the  outside  blockaded.  The  coni.nissary  store-house  was  also  filled  with  the  drift.  Several  hours 
had  elapsed  before  onler  was  entirely  restored  and  our  house  again  in  a  habitable  condition.  We  then 
began  to  reali:?e  how  extremely  weak  this  starvation  diet  had  made  us.  The  pieces  of  wood  which  we  had 
taken  from  the  whale-boat  were  blown  aw.iy,and  the  minimum  thermometer — the  only  one  in  our  possession — 
was  also  lost.  The  hard-tack  ])U(!ding  (a  mixture  of  salt-water  and  bread)  is  considered  a  most  delicious 
and  satisf;ictory  meal,  and  is  one  that  is  looked  forward  to  during  the  entire  week  with  anxiety  and  pleasant 
expectation. 

Afonday,  Dfcember  2,,  1883. — A  violent  wind  arose  soon  after  midnight,  but  by  breakfast  time  it  had 
entirely  subsideti.  During  its  progress  the  vestibule  and  store-house  were  again  filled  with  snow,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  day  was  spent  by  "reliefs"  in  clearing  this  away  and  in  repairing  the  dilapidated  roo£ 


>t 


M! 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXl'KDITIOX. 


471 


A  portion  of  the  wood  which  was  so  widely  scattered  yesterday  was  collected  and  secured.     A  prolonged 
search  by  Ralston  revealed  no  trace  of  the  lost  thermometer. 

Tuesday,  Dnrmber  4,  1883. — Brisk  westerly  winds  have  been  howling  over  our  house  since  yesterday  ; 
this  evening  they  were  accompanied  by  snow  and  heavy  drifting.  Hy  the  new  thermometer,  just  exposed, 
the  temperature  is  —8.0  [  —  22.2°  (".J. 

If  the  dense,  dark  clouds  hanging  in  the  sky  to  the  eastward  are  a  correct  index,  a  vast  expanse  of  water 
must  exist  in  Smith  Sound.  Our  chances  of  crossing  to  Littleton  Island  on  the  ice  are  narrowing  slowly, 
but  we  still  retain  slight  hopes  of  being  able  to  do  so  before  April.  The  invalids  api)ear  to  be  mending 
slowly.  Our  conversation,  as  usual,  turns  on  the  subject  of  food;  it  seems  as  if  we  can  never  tire  of  this  ;  it 
is  the  one  all-absorbing  topic  in  which  we  are  interested,  and  very  naturally  too,  I  think,  when  of  all  our 
miseries  hunger  predominates.  All  our  energy  appears  to  have  departed,  but  we  ask  ourselves,  "  Is  one 
supposed  to  possess  enerj^y  when  the  means  of  sustaining  life  has  been  withdrawn  from  him  ?  "  I  think  not. 
Notwithstanding  the  lack  of  energy  for  work,  some  have  developed  remarkable  powers  as  grumblers,  but 
making  all  due  allowance  for  our  condition,  little  fault  should  be  found  with  the  free  exjjression  of  these 
minds,  made  morbid  by  long  and  continued  suffering;  besides,  were  these  feelings  to  remain  pent  up,  an 
injurious  effect  might  be  wrouglit  on  the  general  health.  A  highly-flavored  stew  of  fox  intestines  and  seal- 
skin was  enjoyed  and  favorably  commented  on  by  all  this  evening. 

Wednesday,  December  5,  1883. — A  gale  broke  suddenly  on  us  at  3  a.  m.,  but  subsided  at  about  noon, 
the  sky  clearing  beautifully.  In  the  evening,  however,  the  gale  rose  again  with  great  fury  and  threatened 
the  destruction  of  our  quarters.  The  tloor  was  snowed  up,  the  vestibule  blown  down,  and  the  commissary 
house  damaged  to  a  considerable  extent.  Just  before  noon  we  were  p.ot  able  to  see  more  than  thirty  yards 
[27'"]  away  on  account  of  the  blinding  drift.     Temperature  at  i  p.  m.,  +7  [— 13.9°  C.|. 

I  issued  nothing  to-day  except  the  necessary  bread. 

Thursday^  December  d,  1883. — We  are  now  having  a  series  of  gales  which  are  doing  great  damage  to 
the  ice,  and  prevents  the  sound  from  freezing  over.  The  wind  again  rose  this  morning  from  the  west,  and 
continued  to  blow  without  interruption  all  day.  These  storms  have  caused  a  disintegration  of  the  tloe  even 
to  the  ice-foot  in  the  little  cove  west  of  the  hut.  From  the  hill  1  observed  numerous  pools  and  lanes  in  all 
directions,  and  dark  water-clouds  hover  over  Smith  Sound  to  the  southward  and  extend  northward  to  Cape 
Camperdown.  The  turbulent  pack,  grinding  and  crumbling  as  if  conteniling  for  the  supremacy  of  the  waters, 
produces  a  mournful  rumbling  sound,  which  strikes  terror  to  the  heart  of  the  listener.  Temperature,  —  lo.o 
[  —  23.3°  C.|.  I  discovered  that  two  barrels  and  several  large  sections  of  the  boat  had  been  blown  away  in 
the  melee  of  the  elements  last  night.  After  a  long  search  they  were  found  in  various  places  in  the  rocks 
above  camp  and  alcjng  the  ice-foot,  and  were  restored  to  their  places.  Long  was  fortunate  enough  to  shoot 
a  three-pound  fox  just  before  breakfast.     I  issued  the  week's  supply  of  provisions. 

Fiiday,  December  "],  1883. — Brisk  westerly  winds;  temperature,  —21  [  —  .'9.4°  C.].  The  moon  made 
her  appearance  this  afternoon;  the  light  shining  through  the  clear  atmosphere  produced  a  very  pretty  efl'ect 
on  the  desolate  country  adjacent  to  Camp  Clay.  The  water-hole  in  the  lake,  having  been  neglected  for 
several  days,  was  found  entirely  closed  this  morning,  and  great  difficulty  was  experienced  in  getting  it  through 
again.  Rice  and  myself  cut  a  large  hole,  finally  reaching  the  water  after  great  jxertion.  Kvery  one  is  weak, 
and  some  are  disheartened  at  the  gloomy  prospects  before  us.  For  several  da)::  \  I'.ave  endeavored  to  in- 
duce them  to  repair  the  damage  done  the  vestibule  by  the  late  storm,  but  in  vain;  suttlcient  energy  tloes  not 
at  present  exist  among  us  to  do  this  work. 

Sattuday,  December  8,  1883. — Clear  weather,  brisk  northerly  winds,  and  a  temperature  of  —24.0 
( — 31.1°  C.J.  The  pack  appears  to  be  in  a  great  commotion  again  to  day;  there  has  been  scarcely  a 
moment  since  morning  but  that  it  could  be  heard  crashing  against  the  rocky  point  of  our  peninsula,  and 
being  tumbled  about  by  the  current  outside.  The  party  worked  in  the  vestibule  this  morning,  i  learing  and 
shoveling  away  the  snow  and  del)ris  which  had  collected  during  the  ])ast  few  days.  A  fox  was  observed  near 
the  hut  this  morning,  but  lie  scampered  away  just  in  time  to  avoid  an  introduction  to  a  charge  of  shot. 
Later  than  this,  however  (10  p.  m.),  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  kill  two  blue  foxes  at  the  same  time.  This 
is  considered  ratiier  fortunate  in  view  of  the  darkness  and  my  indifferent  marksmanshii). 

Arguments  are  legion,  but  unfortunately  there  is  often  a  tendency  to  acrimony  in  these  discussions. 
One  suggests,  as  a  solution  to  the  presence  of  so  much  feeling  in  sinall  matters,  that  we  are  being  too  well 
fed.  Our  conversation  today  has  been  chiefly  on  the  subject  of  food.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  especially  is 
an  earnest  debater  on  subjects  of  this  nature. 


472 


TDE  LADY  FUANKLIX  BAY  EXTEDITION. 


Sunday,  Decemhir  g,  1883. — Clear  wcatlier,  brisk  westerly  wind,  and  temperature  — 30°  1—34.4°  C.]. 
Long  shot  two  foxes  this  morning.  These,  together  with  the  two  killed  by  me  yesterday,  weigh  13^^ 
pounds.  At  the  present  rate  of  issue  this  game  furnishes  the  meat  ration  for  two  days.  A  fine  stew  of  hard 
bread  and  sea-water  was  relished  an'  1  enjoyed  by  all  of  us  this  morning.  A  stew  of  seal  meat  was  served 
for  dinner,  and  thin  and  watery  as  it  ivas,  it  wouhl  have  made  us  supremely  hap))y  had  there  been  twice  the 
tjuantity.  These  hot  drinks  and  warm  stews  appear  to  be  the  one  source  of  life  to  us.  Taken  cold,  their 
effect  in  serving  to  resist  the  damjmess  and  frost  would,  to  a  certain  extent,  be  lost. 

Monday,  Dfcember  10,  1883.— A  westerly  gale  has  been  blowing  all  day,  and  our  condition,  both  mental 
and  physical,  has  been  rendered  miserable  in  consequence.  A  fox  was  observed  in  the  vicinity  of  the  house, 
but,  unfortunately,  he  escaped  before  a  gun  could  be  brought  from  the  interior  of  the  house.  The  party 
confined  themselves  closely  to  their  slee]Mng-bags  to-day,  and  discussed  the  latest  incongruous  combiiation 
of  hash.     'lemperature,  —27.0  [—32.8°  C.J. 

Tuesday,  December  11,  1883. — Temperature,  —20  [  —  28.9°  C],  The  wind  subsided  during  the  morning, 
the  sky  cleared,  and  delightful  weather  followed,  liache  Island  loomed  up  in  the  distance,  sharply  outlined 
against  the  northern  .sky.  No  water-clouds  visible  to  the  north  or  east.  The  vestibule  was  repaired  to-day. 
I  worked  nearly  four  hours  on  this  structure,  and  just  before  its  comjjletion  was  ovt /come  with  dizziness ;  in 
falling  I  was  revived  by  striking  against  the  sledge.  Jens  assisted  me  \x^^  ..le  house,  anc'.  after  a  brief 
])eriod  of  rest  I  feel  all  right  again.  The  wind  has  risen  this  evening,  and  it  is  now  drifting  very  hard  out- 
side. Several  members  of  the  party  are  entirely  out  of  tobacco,  and  the  deprivation  is  making  a  bad  im- 
jiression  on  their  minds;  some  are  even  willing  to  exchange  their  food  for  it.  I  am  grateful  now,  if  never 
before,  that  1  care  nothing  for  this  weed  in  any  form. 

Wednesday,  December  12,  1883. — 'I'emjierature,  —25  [—31.7°  C.].  C^lcar  weather;  light  westerly  winds. 
1  issued  the  weekly  rations  to  the  cooks  this  morning.  'J'his  is  a  most  irksome  task;  my  fingers  have  been 
frost-bitten  .so  frequently  in  connection  with  these  issues,  that  they  are  now  very  sore  and  tender.  Standing 
for  so  long  a  time  in  the  low  temperatures  of  the  store-house  and  handling  the  brass  cartridges  which  are 
used  as  weighs  ■,  my  hands  and  feet  become  benumbed  and  my  body  thoroughly  chilled. 

Accusations  were  made  against  Frederick,  who  is  acting  in  the  capacity  of  cook,  by  Dr.  Pavy,  Henry, 
Hender,  and  one  or  two  others,  of  unjustly  dividing  the  food.  Frederick  has  worked  faithfully  all  winter, 
and  everybody  except  the  few  who  prefer  the  charges  believe  him  innocent.  To  avoid  discord,  however. 
Lieutenant  Greely  has  directed  that  other  members  of  the  mess  make  the  divisions,  but  Frederick  will  still 
do  the  cooking. 

Thursday,  December  \2„  1883. — Tem])erature,  —  25  [  — 31.7°  C.].  These  disheartening  winds  still  con- 
tinue to  blow  with  undiminished  velocity.  'J'here  was  nothing  done  outside  except  such  work  as  belongs  to 
the  daily  routine.  Geographical  sketches  of  the  United  States,  by  Lieutenant  (Ireely,  are  given  every  even 
ing  and  are  highly  entertaining. 

Friday,  December  14,  1883. — Weather  clear  and  calm;  temperature,  —17.0  f— 27.2°C.].  The  evening 
is  beautifully  clear,  and  the  angular  cliffs  of  Hache  Lsland  stand  out  in  bold  relief  against  the  sky.  The 
snow  which  was  accumulating  in  the  commissary  store-liouse  for  several  days  past  has  been  removed  to-day. 
Christiansen  shot  a  4^2  pound  fox  this  evening.  \'ery  little  energy  is  apparent  in  the  party  now,  and  very 
little  is  expected  under  these  circumstances.  The  condition  of  three  members  of  the  party  would  seem  to 
indicate  the  pre.sence  of  scorbutic  symptoms. 

Satu> day,  December  15,  1883. — The  beauty  of  the  moon's  halo  to-day  was  doubly  enhanced  by  the 
hazy  atmosphere  through  which  we  viewed  it.  Temi)erature,  —17.0  [  —  27.2°  C.].  A  high  westerly  wind 
sprang  up  suddenly  during  the  evening,  .ind  light  snow  began  falling  about  the  same  time.  No  water-clouds 
were  observed  over  the  sound  by  the  numerous  visitors  to  the  ridge.  The  water-hole  in  the  lake  was  again 
found  entirely  frozen  up,  but  through  the  energy  of  Kllis  it  was  recut,  and  an  abundant  supply  of  water 
again  furnished  us.  I  visited  the  old  camj)  in  search  of  foxes,  but  saw  nothing.  The  flag  i)lanted  near  the 
spot  by  Rice  and  myself  was  found  to  have  been  blown  down  by  the  recent  gales,  and  the  staff  broken.  A 
stew  consisting  of  fox  intestines,  hearts,  livers,  lungs,  iVc,  together  with  a  small  quantity  of  seal-skin,  furnished 
us  with  a  most  satisfactory  and  '•(.'freshing  breakfast. 

Sunday,  December  16,1883.  Temperature,  —21.0  |— 29.4<'C.].  High  winds,  which  are  causing  a 
blinding  drift,  make  us  feel  posi  /ely  wretched,  confined  as  we  are  to  the  limited  space  which  our  frozen 
sleeping-bags  afford.  Dr.  I'avy  tells  me  that  he  can  probably  save  one  of  Elison's  feet;  the  other,  and  all 
liis  fingers,  he  will  lose.     'J'he  amputation,  he  thinks,  will  not  be  necessary  until  we  reach  Littleton  Island  in 


THE  LADY   Fh'ANKLIN  15AY   EXPEDITION'. 


473 


March.  A  hard-bread  pudding,  rich  witli  rice,  raisins,  and  seal  blubber,  caused  us  to  feci  coniparaiively 
happy.  Ahhough  1  have  never  cared  anytliing  for  smoking,  the  two  cigarettes  ])resented  nie  by  Lieu- 
tenant Kishngbury  just  after  breakfast  were  nevertheless  greatly  enjoyed  and  ajipreciated.  Regularly  every 
Sund.iy  there  is  an  issue  to  each  man  of  ^  gill  of  rum  and  ^  of  a  lemon. 

Monday,  December  17,1 883. — t'loudy  weather ;  light  ])recii)itation  of  frost  this  evening,  and  temperature 
—  13  o  [— 25.o°C.|.  1  cleared  the  snow  from  the  vestibule  this  morning  ;  no  one  excejjt  Kice  was  willing 
to  assist,  lie  is  always  as  ready  to  do  as  much  for  others  as  for  liimself.  Long  and  J-'rederick  are  the 
cooks  for  the  two  messes,  and  as  such  are  not  expected  to  perform  any  outside  work.  Unless  some  of  the 
men  exhibit  more  ambition,  we  will  never  be  able  to  save  oui-selves  from  disaster  in  the  contemjilated  trip 
across  Smith  Sound.  I  am  very  weak  myself,  but  when  the  others  comjilain  so  bitterly  of  the  same  condi- 
tion, I  cannot  refrain  from  doing  work  which  should  be  performed  by  others.  This  afternno.i,  while  working 
outside,  my  strength  left  me  and  complete  prostration  followed.  I  was  once  so  strong  and  self-reliant  that 
it  seems  almost  incredible  that  my  strength  should  have  been  diminished  until  it  will  scarcely  etjual  that  of 
a  child.  Tears  spring  unbidden  to  the  eyes  when  I  see  the  reflection  of  my  emaciated  features  in  our  mirror, 
and  when  I  feel  my  shrunken  and  w  cll-nigh  useless  muscles. 

l^uesday,  December  18,  1883. — The  weather  is  clear  and  calm;  temperature,  — 17.0  [  —  27.2°  C.].  This 
is  the  mc  i  beautiful  evening  that  I  remember  ever  having  seen.  The  stars  gleam  and  si  intillate  brilliantly, 
like  diamonds  in  their  setting  of  deep  blue,  impressing  the  beholder  with  a  feeling  of  wonderment  and  awe. 

One  phase  of  our  starvation  diet  is  that  during  the  discussions  which  arise  freipiently  in  connection 
with  different  articles  of  food,  nearly  every  one  rejjroaches  himself  for  not  having  eaten  more  heartily  when 
he  had  the  o|)portunity,  and  there  is  no  person  in  the  party  who  appears  to  recollect  having  dislikeil  any 
dish  of  which  he  has  ever  partaken,  lender's  chest  complaints  apiiear  to  have  revived  again  ;  the  trouble 
tends  rather  to  irritate  than  to  quiet  his  tongue. 

Weihiesiiay,  IMrmber  19,  1883. — High  westerly  winds  have  caused  a  blinding  drift  all  day,  which  ]iie- 
vented  the  party  from  going  outside  except  for  a  few  moments  at  a  time  ;  temperature,  —21.0  [  — 29.4"(  .|. 
I  issued  the  rations  this  morning  for  the  ensuing  week.  \\'hcn  volunteers  are  called  for  to  jjerform  certain 
odd  jobs  necessary  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  the  entire  party,  no  one  responds  except  Rice,  Salor,  and 
occasionally  Schneider.  Cross  saws  and  prepares  the  wood  for  the  use  of  the  cooks.  AMien  high  winds 
prevail  the  draft  in  the  hut  is  increased,  and  the  smoke  from  the  stoves  when  the  meals  are  being  )>repared 
passes  out  through  the  ventilators  with  facility  and  occasions  us  but  little  difticulty ;  but  on  »alm  days  it 
flows  out  sluggishly,  and  in  consequence  we  are  often  nearly  suffocated. 

Elison's  feet  are  black,  shrunken,  and  lifeless;  his  ankles  esi)ccially  are  a  horrible  sigbt ;  the  flesh  has 
sloughed  away,  leaving  the  bones  entirely  devoid  of  covering.  He  sufters  much,  but  is  very  patient,  and 
bears  his  troubles  with  manly  and  heroic  fortitude. 

Thursday,  December  2Q,  1883. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature,  —25.3  [— 3i.8°C.].  This  has 
been  the  most  pleasant  day  that  we  have  known  for  weeks.  The  atmosphere  is  so  clear  that  I5ache  Island 
is  distinctly  outlined.  The  order  of  exercises  for  every  day  in  the  week  except  Saturd.ay  and  Sunday  is 
about  as  follows:  The  cooks  (Long  and  Frederick)  rise  at  6  a.  m.  to  prepare  breakfast.  Cross  then  jire- 
pares  the  wood  with  which  to  cook  the  next  two  meals,  and  Lieutenant  Oreely  begins  his  instructi".  e  an<l 
highly  entertaining  descriptions  of  the  different  portions  of  the  United  States  which  he  has  visited..  At  noon 
I  make  the  daily  issues  of  rations.  One  man  in  turn  each  day  opens  the  water-hole  at  the  lake  and  su|)- 
plies  the  cooks  with  what  they  require.  At  2.30  p.  m.  dinner  is  started,  and  from  7.30  to  9  o'clock  the  Hii)le 
and  other  books  are  read.  We  usually  retire  at  the  latter  hour.  During  the  daytime  the  conversation 
generally  reverts  to  the  subject  of  food,  and  many  coi)ious  orders  are  given  from  well-filled  bills  of  fare,  and 
many  an  imaginary  dinner  eaten.  We  also  speak  of  our  future  prospects  and  our  present  dej)loral)le  con- 
dition.    Christiansen  shot  a  white  fox,  which  weighed  4^  pounds. 

Another  spring  tide  h.-.s  just  passed,  and  this  time  the  ice  in  Smith  Sound  was  probably  not  broken 
up  under  its  influence.  There  at  le.ast  is  no  indication  of  open  water  towards  the  Creenland  coast.  This 
fact  is  rather  chee;  ing  to  us,  an<l  will  serve  to  infuse  new  life  and  vigor  in  the  half-torpid  minds  of  the  party. 
There  is  considerable  speculation  on  what  may  be  in  store  for  us  at  Littleton  Island.  1  fm<l  dial  my 
estimates  of  bread  and  iiieat  were  too  low  ;  conseipiently  the  provisions  will  be  extemld  several  days  beyond 
the  limit  assigned.  1  wond.'r  if  my  scales  have  anything  to  do  with  this  (liscre|)an(y  ?  In  the  issues  this 
week,  instead  of  the  usual  se.d-skin  for  stew,  the  flippers  and  intestines  of  Lontr's  last  seal  were  used.     These 


t 


K 


ml 

■  ■  ii  ''5     l\ 


1  i  t 


m 


474 


TnE  LADY  I'HANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


will  be  auymeiit-'il  by  tlic  intestines  of  foxes  killed  from  time  to  time,  together  with  a  small  (luantity  of  the 
moldy  hard  bread.     IJcndcr  apjjears  to  be  improving. 

Friday,  Dtiimbcr  21,  1883. — Weather  clear  and  calm  ;  temperature, —29.0  [  —  33.9"  C.].  There  is  now 
no  indication  of  open  water  in  Smith  Sound.  The  natives  are  of  the  ojjinion  that  the  ice  is  in  a  fiivorable 
condition  for  traveling.  The  noble  fellows  mspirc  us  with  hope  for  the  future  by  assurances  of  plenty  of 
game  when  the  sun  returns. 

Two  events  occur  to-day,  one  of  which  is  interesting  to  me  alone.  One  is  the  winter  solstice,  and  the 
other  the  27th  anniversary  of  my  birthday.  At  my  home  to-day  they  are  most  likely  discussing  our  probable 
fate,  and  Perhaps  they  mourn  me  as  lost  to  them  forever.  Mow  I  wish  I  could  tell  them  that  I  am  in  no 
immediate  lianger,  so  that  tlieir  minds  might  be  relieved  from  the  burden  wliich  thoughts  of  this  kind  must 
bring.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was  kiial  enough  to  give  me  a  cigarette  to  pufi"  while  I  drank  my  birthday 
rum.    This  is  a  new  kind  of  dissipation  and  one  I  regret  cannot  be  intlulged  in  more  frequently. 

I  shot  a  fox  at  4  p.  m.,  which  weighed  three  pounds  and  twelve  ounces.  There  are  evidently  two 
distinct  species  of  the  arctic  fox,  as  the  white  foxes  weigh  about  two  pounds  more  than  the  blue  foxes.  Some, 
however,  contenil  that  there  is  but  one  species,  owing  to  the  change  which  is  gradually  taking  place  in  the 
blue  foxes,  /'.  r.,  the  turning  of  blue  to  a  dirty  white  or  gray  color.  A  strict  account  is  kept  of  the  intestines 
of  these  animals  and  they  are  alternately  issued  to  each  mess.  The  heart  and  li\er,  however,  are  the 
perquisites  of  the  hunter.  As  an  incentive  for  the  natives  to  be  vigilant  and  watchful  for  game,  an  ounce 
of  tobacco  is  given  them  whenever  they  succeed  in  shooting  a  fox. 

Saturday,  Di-ifiiibcr  22,  1883. — The  sky  has  been  wondrously  clear  and  bright,  and  not  a  breath  of 
air  has  been  stirring  to  ruffle  the  serenity  of  our  out-of-door  promenade ;  temperature,  —29.0  [  —  33.9°  C.]. 
We  remained  (juietly  in  our  bags  during  the  greater  i)oriion  of  the  d.ay,  metlitating  on  the  probable  fate  of 
our  forlorn  party.  Even  the  dire  calamity  which  now  confronts  us  is  not  sufficient  to  repress  the  exuberant 
flow  of  good  nature  so  conspicuous  in  our  party.  A  stew  of  moldy  hard  bre.ad  and  one  can  of  ox-tail  soup 
made  a  fine,  comparatively  rich,  dish  for  our  mess  of  twelve  this  evening.  At  Fort  Conger  ten  cans  of  this 
soup  were  required  as  an  introduction  to  the  dinner;  now  two  cans  serve  to  constitute  the  dinner  for  the 
same  number  of  men.  Jewell  is  suffering  with  a  sore  fmger  (probably  a  felon),  which  is  similar  to  those  by 
whicli  Gardiner  and  Hiederbick  are  afflicted. 

Sunday,  Dntmbcr  23,  1883. — Temjierature,  —24.5  [—31.4°  C.].  Clear  and  calm  during  the  morning, 
but  as  evening  approached  the  sky  clouded  and  a  blustering  wind  arose,  which  caused  much  drifting  and 
much  discomfort  to  the  inmates  of  out  wretched  hovel.  Several  foxes  were  seen,  but  all  proved  too  wary 
for  our  weak  and  methodical  hunters. 

We  are  having  considerable  trouble  with  the  water-hole  at  the  lake.  With  his  usual  disregard  for  the 
uture,  Whisler  broke  the  ice-chisel  and  left  it,  hopeless  of  recovery,  fastened  deep  in  the  narrow  hole  which 
he  had  made.  Among  those  who  turned  out  to  rei>air  the  damage,  Rice  and  Salor  were  conspicuous  for 
their  energy.  Ellis  also  came  in  for  a  fair  share  of  glory  in  this  respect,  as  he  fell  down  in  a  fainting  fit  on 
reaching  the  hut,  after  having  worked  faithfully  for  a  long  time.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  myself  were 
the  last  to  go  out,  and  not  until  we  had  worked  for  three  hours  did  we  succeed  in  striking  water.  We  were 
greatly  weakened  and  exhausted  in  consequence  of  this  exertion  Ice  had  to  be  melted  this  evening  for  tea, 
the  hole  not  having  been  cut  until  after  9  o'clock. 

Pavy  tells  me  that  the  prospects  for  the  recovery  of  Elison  are  favorable.  It  is  thought,  however,  that 
he  will  lose  all  his  fingers  and  both  his  feet.  Many  complain  that  their  feet  are  sore  and  swollen  to  such  a 
degree  that  the/  are  nearly  deprived  of  their  use.  The  frost-bitten  feet  of  Henry  and  Cross  are  especially 
bad,  and  they  do  not  appear  to  improve  very  much.  Ade(iuate  warmth  and  nourishment  will  now  do  more 
to  infuse  new  life  in  the  emaciated  frames  of  our  band  of  sufferers  than  anything  else.  The  poor  cooks 
retired  at  an  early  hour  this  evening,  both  ill  from  inhaling  the  smoke  caused  by  burning  damp  wood  while 
cooking.  While  the  meals  are  being  prepared  our  room  is  usually  filled  with  a  dense  smoke,  which  nearly 
suffocates  us.  All  except  the  cooks  can  protect  themselves  somewhat  by  crawling  down  into  their  sleeping- 
bags  and  covering  the  entrance  closely.  It  is  necessary  for  the  cooks  to  stand  over  the  fire,  and,  with  their 
fares  close  to  the  stove,  blow  like  a  pair  of  bellows  in  order  to  hasten  the  burning. 

I  exchanged  half  of  my  bread-pudding  for  half  of  that  of  another,  to  be  given  me  on  some  future 
morning.  We  fre(iuently  resort  to  this  method  in  order  to  secure  a  full  meal.  There  is  one  tlrawback,  how- 
ever, to  this  jilan;  it  is  necessary  to  go  hungry  to-day  in  order  that  we  may  feast  to-morrow.  Whisler  has 
been  particularly  disagreeable  to  day,  and  not  at  all  choice  in  the  language  used  towards  his  companion,^. 


'^.t 


THK  LADY  KHAN  KLIN   I'.AV  EXl'EDITION. 


475 


None  of  his  frequent  invitations — issued  jironiiscuously — to  go  out  ;ind  fight  him  liave  heeii  '.cieiJtcd  lUit, 
under  the  trying  circumstances,  I  <k)  not  think  lie  siuuild  be  creihted  witii  too  much  l'!..me  for  wliat  lie  has 
said  and  done,  for  we  are  more  or  less  "cranky,"  and  1  only  wonder  that  we  are  not  all  insane.  We  are 
all  inclined  to  be  rather  sullen,  and  at  times  even  surly. 

I  wonder  if  we  will  survive  the  horrors  of  this  ice-prison? 

Monday,  December  2\,  1883. — Weather  clear ;  light  westerly  winds;  temperature,  —22.5  [— 30.3°  C'.|. 
Foxes  have  again  been  seen,  but,  as  before,  escaped  the  guns  of  our  vigilant  hunters. 

]5y  direction  of  Lieutenant  Greely  I  made  extra  issues  for  Christmas,  as  follows:  Rice,  3  pounds  ;  raisins, 
2^-2  pounds;  blubber,  2  pounds;  lard,  1  pound;  bread-dust,  4  pounds;  sugar,  y,  pound;  milk,  1 '-^  cans; 
extract  of  coffee,  i  can;  extract  of  <:hocolate,  xy^  cans;  cloudberries,  1   can;  rum,  12  gills,  and  6  lemons. 

Dr.  Pavy  is  suffering  with  ne.vous  chills,  and  we  all  feel  greatly  alarmed,  for,  without  his  professional 
advice  and  skill,  our  situation  would  be  most  deplorable. 

The  new  water-hole  in  the  lake  has  proved  to  be  a  com])lete  success,  and  the  chisel  broken  by  Whisler 
has  been  recovered  and  repaired  by  Schneider.      Salor  is  32  years  of  age  to-day. 

Tuesday,  December  2'^,  1883. — A  merry  (?)  Christmas.  Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature,  —35.5 
[— 37.S°C.|.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  celebrates  his  thirty-sixth  birthday.  Foxes  were  seen  about  camp 
to-day,  but  none  were  shot. 

Our  bill  of  fare  has  been  substantially  the  same  that  it  was  on  Thanksgiving,  except  an  increase  of 
one  ounce  of  bread  to  each  man.  The  best  of  good  feeling  has  prevailed  and  three  cheers  were  given  for 
Lieutenant  (Ireely,  Klison,  Rice,  and  the  cooks. 

The  records  from  Ikevoort  Island,  which  were  found  by  Rice  in  October,  were  read  again  to  the  satis- 
faction of  all;  the  prophetic  letter  of  our  friend  Clay  was  also  again  read  aloud  and  many  moistened  eyes 
were  observe<l  at  its  close.  I  have  all  along  placed  such  implicit  confidence  in  the  ability  and  sound 
judgment  of  Lieutenant  Cauington,  that  I  believe  he  is  at  Littleton  Island  and  will  cross  to  us  during  the 
full  moon  in  January.  There  are  very  few  who  share  my  rather  sanguine  exjicctations  in  il:'s  -connection. 
The  ruin  punch  brewed  by  Long  and  Frederick  was  the  i)est  that  f  ha\e  ever  tasted  (in  C  .ji  Jhi)),  and 
our  only  regret  is  that  the  (juantity  was  not  greater.  Strange  as  it  may  ai)pear.  every  one  felt  satisfied 
at  the  conclusion  of  dinner. 

I  replaced  the  broken  flag-staff  at  our  old  camp.  While  crossing  the  ridge  to  visit  this  jilace,  I  had  a 
very  good  view  of  the  sound,  but  could  see  no  water-clouds  in  the  direction  t)f  the  Oreenland  coast.  This 
fact  strengthens  our  hoi)e  of  being  able  to  reach  the  coast  of  (Ireenland  during  the  month  of  ALircli,  or  tiiat 
assistance  may  come  to  us  from  that  side. 

The  evening,  until  after  10  o'clock,  was  devoted  to  songs,  national  and  sacred,  in  which  the  two  Kskinio 
joined  with  their  wild  but  sweet  native  melodies,  and  the  Danish  national  hymns.  The  spirits  of  the  party 
are  wonderfully  exuberant  and  joyous  in  view  of  our  prospect,  and  should  they  continue  in  this  way  there 
will  be  no  immediate  danger  of  losing  our  minds.  What  a  contrast  is  ours  to  the  [larty  of  walrus  huniers 
who  were  cast  away  for  the  winter  in  Spitzbergen;  and  although  having  abundance  of  food,  every  man 
perished  in  consequence  of  depression  of  spirits  and  from  having  eaten  salt  food  instead  of  fresh,  when  there 
was  an  abundance  of  the  latter  at  hand. 

Wednesday,  December  26,  1883. — Owing  to  our  ilissipation  of  yesterday  no  one  awoke  until  7  o'clock 
this  morning.  Frederick  and  Long  are  not  feeling  at  all  well  on  account  of  the  injury  to  their  eyes,  resulting 
from  the  srnoke  yesterday.  In  making  the  weekly  issue  to-day  fox  meat  was  used  f(.r  two  days  in  lieu  of 
seal.  If  our  supply  of  fuel  and  fresh  water  becomes  exhausted,  we  can  eat  the  seal  )neat  in  its  raw  state. 
We  all  enjoyeii  a  stew  this  morning  made  of  seal-tail,  or  flipper,  fox  intestiiies,  and  rotten  hard  bread. 
Near  the  hut  this  evening  I  shot  a  fox  ,  which  weighed  three  liounds  and  two  ounces. 

Thursday,  December  2"],  1833. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature,  —39.5  [--39.7°  C.|.  A  cold, 
raw  day. 

Rice  having  volunteered  for  the  hazardous  duty  of  visiting  Littleton  Island  in  quest  of  information 
regarding  the  relief  expedition,  we  had  a  long  discussion  over  the  matter  last  evening.  These  long  conver- 
sations have  a  very  beneficial  effect  on  the  mind,  in  engaging  and  turning  it  from  the  gloomy  reflections 
with  which  it  is  crowded.  During  this  discussion  many  hopeful  suggestions  were  '.nade,  and  at  its  close  we 
all  felt  better  and  more  cheerful  than  we  had  previously.  It  is  indeed  singular  how  calmly  and  with  what 
stoicism  we  speak  of  the  inevital)le  result  if  relief  does  not  come  to  us  soon.  When  we  consider  tiie  uncer- 
tainty of  the  future — the  ominous  clouds  of  despair  hanging  over  us  like  the  sword  of  Damocles — it  is 


1    '\Vi 


r: 


476 


THE  LADV  FUANKMN  WAV  KXI>Kl)ITION. 


inileed  wonilerfi'.l  to  remark  tlie  bright,  joyous  spirits  of  the  men.     It  certainly  has  no  jiarallel  or  precedent 
in  the  annals  of  arctic  history. 

It  is  t'le  opinion  of  Frederick  that  p;iison  brought  on  himself  this  dire  disaster,  of  the  loss  of  his  limli.;, 
througii  his  indiscretion  in  eating  snow  while  on  the  journey  to  Cape  Isabella.     Linn  also  came  nearly  be.ij., 
a  victim  to  the  same  injudicious  act.     'l"he  exhausting  and  clebilitating  efilect  of  eating  snow  while  travelii..; 
in  low  temperatures  is  so  well  known  to  both  I, inn  and  Klison.that  I  am  surprised  th.-".  men  of  their  int'-'lM'^enc 
should  have  done  just  the  thing  wliich  of  all  others  should  have  been  avoided. 

Friihiy,  Dficmbcr  28,  1883. — Jlear  weather;  light  westerly  winds;  and  temperature  —35-0  [  —  37-2°  (M. 
To  eke  out  our  .scanty  supply  of  fuel,  we  are  now  using  a  small  (juanlity  of  tarred  rope  -U  each  meal,  m 
connection  with  the  barrel-staves.  It  is  tpiitc  successful  as  fuel,  but  the  d-nse  smoke  v  liich  i*  cre:'lLS  is 
almost  unbearable.  The  fox-n.vat  .  *ews  are  not  at  all  satisfactory,  owing  to  the  great  innnber  of  bones. 
Their  value  is  fully  ;  ..  ;  t^r  cf.-.x  ;^  ■,  tl,  n  the  stews  of  seal  m  it.  Fearing  that  our  fuel  will  not  last  as  long 
as  our  pro  '-,10...!,  I,iij-,t  ji.inf  t'Veel)  !iai  directed  me  to  issue  ten  jjounds  of  blubber  to  the  cooks  for  their 
use  in  experimentin'::.  Tn  !hi,  i  -ne  Lieutenant  Lockwood  objected,  anil  a  very  disageeable  discussion 
followed.      I  am  ni.  .  iss  uiv.;  flK-  fruzc  bread  which  we  found  in  the  Proteus  wreck  cache. 

Satiinfijy,  J><ct»ii>fr  2(),  [.'^83.—  *  >veather;  temperature, — 31.5  [— 35.3°C.].  The  wind  changed  to 
easterly  last  evening,  and  blew  with  a  velocity  bordering  or.  that  of  a  gale.  'J'his  morning  it  had  entirely 
subsided,  and  pleasant  weather  prevailed  all  day.  The  greater  portion  of  the  day  was  spent  in  making 
bargains  for  the  exchange  of  difterent  articles  of  (bod.  There  is  now  a  regular  system  of  marketing  carried 
on  each  day  by  those  whose  wits  have  been  sharpened  by  trailing  or  swai)ping  in  earlier  days.  Cross  and 
Hender  have  been  excused  by  the  doctor  from  the  performance  of  any  duty.  The  frost-bitten  foot  of  the 
former  is  much  worse,  proud  tiesh  liaving  appeared,  i  dug  out  of  the  snow  the  last  piece  of  the  whale-boat 
Narji<hal,  and  it  will  be  burned  at  once. 

Sunday,  Dfcember  30,  1883. — Cloudy  and  windy  weather;  in  the  evening  the  wind  blew  stronglv  from 
tiie  east,  and  the  temperature  stood  at  —21.2  [—29.6°  C.].  How  secure  and  thankful  wt  should  leel  in 
this  strong  house,  miserable  and  cold  as  it  is,  where  the  howling  storm  outside  caimot  reach  us. 

In  the  marketing  yesterday,  I  secured  the  hard-bread  pudding  of  another  which,  together  with  my  own 
allowance,  made  <iuite  a  satisfactory  meal,  and  placed  me  on  better  terms  with  myself  than  I  had  been  for 
some  months.  I  have  been  lying  in  my  bag  nearly  all  day  in  a  ilreamy,  listless  state,  thinking  of  home  and 
friends,  and  wondering  if  this  'iving  death,  with  all  its  attendant  horrors,  will  ever  end. 

This  day  completes  half  the  time  that  we  expect  to  remain  here;  calculating  from  November  i,  the 
day  of  the  final  reduction  in  rations.  If,  at  the  end  of  the  next  sixty  days,  the  party  is  in  as  good  general 
health  as  it  is  to  day,  -.ve  may  expect  to  squeeze  through  until  relief  comes;  but  if  we  should  be  greatly 
reduced,  and  no  assistance  should  arrive  from  Littleton  Island,  all  or  the  mo.st  of  us  are  doomed. 

We  are  very  fortunate  in  having  this  splendid  lake  of  fresh  water  so  convenient  to  the  house;  and,  in 
the  absence  of  salt,  we  are  also  fortunate  in  being  in  close  proximity  to  the  sea,  where  its  water  may  be 
secured.  We  often  substitute  gunpowder  for  salt  on  our  food ;  five  pounds  of  this  article  having  been  found 
among  the  other  stores  in  the  caches.  The  natives  carry  all  the  water  for  the  cooks,  and  are  excused  from 
all  other  duties.     Rum  and  lemon  were  issued  as  is  customary  on  Sundays. 

Monday,  December  31,  1883. — The  wind  blew  n  ith  great  violence  all  night,  and  continued  without 
interruption  to  blow  all  day.  Temperature,  —20.5  [  —  29.2°  C.].  The  water-hole  gave  out  again  this 
mornintJ,  but  another  was  at  once  begun,  and  by  4.30  p.  m.  was  completed.  Only  three  inches  [76'""')  of 
water  now  remain  in  the  lake.  "  Marketing"  is  still  carried  on  quite  extensively,  and  is  productive  of  good 
results.  Three  ounces  of  alcohol  have  been  used  daily  to  heat  the  water  used  in  bathing  Elison's  wounds; 
the  same  work  is  now  performed  by  the  blubber-lamp  without  any  additional  expenditure  of  fuel. 

Will  the  hour  ever  arrive  when  we  will  be  no  longer  restricted  in  the  amount  of  food  that  we  may  wish 
to  consume?  This  craving — this  constant  gnawing  of  hunger  is  horrible.  It  brings  with  it  visions  of  the 
most  temuting  dishes,  w  hich  to  us  are  most  tantalizing,  as  we  have  no  means  of  gratifying  the  desires  which 
thoughts  of  this  kind  produce. 

Tuesday,  jfanuaiy  1,  1884. — Considering  the  unfortunate  circumstances  attending  our  situation,  we 
enter  the  new  year  under  particularly  favorable  conditions.  The  health  of  the  party  is  generally  good ;  the 
spirits  of  the  men  are  excellent,  and  the  provisions  are  exceeding  the  estimates  placed  on  them  in  every 
instance.  The  sound  appears  to  be  firmly  frozen  over,  as  no  water-clouds  anywhere  appear,  and  every  one 
feels  hopeful  of  deliverance  before  our  provisions  are  expended. 


THE  LADY  FKANKMN  HAY  KXPKDITION. 


477 


Connell  says  that  lie  saw  ilic  (Ircenlnnd  coast  at  noim.     I  visited  the  u\d  caiDp  to  tlie  east  in  scan  h  of 
foxes,     T  fired  at  one,  liiit  unfortunately  did  not  secure  him.     'The  short  wall;  left  nie  ;;reatly  exhausted. 


I  made  an  e.xtra  issue  of  a  few  articles  for  the  least  to-day  whii 


we  have  l)een  lookuig  anxiously  lor- 
vard  to  for  .so  lonj^  a  time.  The  most  of  rs  were  awake  at  midnig  o  greet  the  New  Vear.  How  are  our 
friends  spending  the  day  ?  Do  they  helieve  that  we  are  yet  livinjr  ?  ■  jse  are  questions  which  we  frei|uently 
ask  ourselves.     A  clear,  calm,  and  beautiful  day;  temperature,  —    ?.<   [ — 35.6"  ('. J. 

l!'tt//irsi/<tv,  yannary  2,  1884. — t'lear  weather,  lij;lu  westerly  \,  ils;  temperature,  -  ^S.o  f  —  3.V3"  <".|. 
Jens  reports  having  heard  the  grinding  cf  the  pack  in  lUichanan  Strait  this  morning.  I  sincerely  hope  that 
tlie  disruption  is  not  general.  Another  fox  was  seen"  to-day ;  tiiis  time  it  was  a  white  one.  Klison's  right 
foot  dropped  off  this  morning  without  his  knowleilgc.  'I'hc  fact  will  be  carefully  concealed  from  him.  One 
of  his  fingers  fell  off  a  few  days  ago,  ami  several  others  will  follow  in  a  short  time.  Dr.  I'avy  thinks  that 
with  warmth,  comfort,  and  a  generous  diet  he  might  jjossibly  recover,  but  that  the  chances  are  against  him. 
Ralston  is  (juite  ill.  liiederbick  having  over-eaten  yesterday  now  suffers  with  cramp  in  his  stomach,  lie 
is  doubtless  consoled  in  his  pain  with  the  retlection  that  yesterday's  feast  will  most  likely  be  the  last  oppor- 
tunity this  winter  of  making  himself  ill  by  over-feeding.  1  issued  the  week's  sui)ply  of  i)rovisioiis  this  after- 
noon. Hacon  for  one  meal  in  lieu  of  English  beef  is  the  great  event  of  the  week.  In  comparison  with  two 
w?eks  ago  there  is  a  marked  diffe";  •   a  ''\  the  amount  of  light  furnished  by  the  reflection  of  the  tlistant  sun. 

'riiiirsday,  'yamiaiy  3,  1884.  —t^le."  .  eather,  light  westerly  wintis,  and  temperature  —31.0  | — 3S-o"  ^'-l. 
My  fingers  were  (juite  badly  fro^  'atte:  ,'le  making  the  issues  this  morning.  I  shot  and  wounded  a  blue 
fox  this  morning,  but  the  cunn;  I'j  •  c.d  .-sc  ipeil  to  the  rocks  above  cani[)  where  he  secreted  himself.  I  find 
that  a  seal  from  which  we  •  .v  bt.  .1  using  during  the  past  month,  and  which  1  had  estimated  at  sixty 
pounds  weight,  exceeds  the  citinic,  i)y  eleven  j.ounds.  When  the  moon  rose  above  the  extremity  of  Caj)e 
Sabine  this  evening  it  produi  ';d  a  very  i)retty  elfect  on  the  icebergs  in  tiiat  direction. 

FrUay,  yiiiiuaiy  4,  \i.  ■  -f:  ady  weather,  brisk  westerly  wind.s,  and  temjierature,  — 34.0  (—36.7°  C.J. 
I  shot  at  a  blue  fox  this  evening,  but  missed  my  aim.  P'our  others  were  seen  later  during  the  evening,  one 
of  which  I  killed. 

On  entering  the  commissary  store-house  this  morning  1  found  a  hole  in  the  canva-i  roof,  evidently  cut 
by  some  sharp  instrument,  and  about  one-fourth  jjound  of  bacon  missing  from  the  j)iece  directly  underneath. 
Investigating  further  with  the  aid  of  a  lantern  outside,  I  found  where  the  marauder  had  endeavored  to  break 
through  the  roof  in  another  place,  but  failing  in  that  had  cut  through  the  canvas  witli  a  knife. 

Saturday,  yaiinaiy  5,  1884. — Cloudy  weather,  brisk  westerly  winds;  temperature,  — ^5.2  |— 31.8°  (_!.|. 
This  morning  1  discovered  that  another  hole  had  been  cut  through  the  canvas  forming  the  roof  to  my  com- 
mi.ssary  store-house,  and  that  it  had  been  so  carefully  covered  with  snow-blocks  as  to  cscajje  my  notice 
yesterday.  I  think  the  depredator  is  one  of  the  two  men  whom  I  have  been  watching  closely  for  some  days. 
I  gave  notice  thi.s  morning  that  I  had  set  a  spring  gun  in  the  store-house,  and  that  any  man  who  entered  or 
interfered  with  the  house  in  any  way  did  so  at  his  peril.  I  found  so  much  trouble  in  setting  tiie  gun  that  I 
finally  abandoned  the  attemi)t.  Of  this  fact,  however,  the  party,  except  Lieutenant  Creely,  remained  in 
ignorance. 

lilison's  remaining  fo(Jt  ilroi)ped  off  tiiis  morning.  It  detached  itself  from  the  stum|)  when  the  limb 
was  lifted  to  be  ilres.sed.  'i'he  ;)ractice  of  exchanging  food  or  "  marketing,"  as  it  is  called,  is  gradually  iieing 
discoiy.inued.  This  evening  many  debts  contracted  in  that  way  were  settled,  and  several  remarked  that  they 
would  barter  no  more.  I  refilled  the  ruin  can  from  the  large  cask,  and  found  it  the  most  wretched  piece 
of  work  that  I  had  ever  engaged  in. 

Sunday,  yaiiuaty  6,  1884. — Clear  weather,  light  westerly  wind,  and  temper.ature  —24.0  | — 31.1°  C.J, 

The  cook  in  my  mess  (Frederick)  reported  that  some  person  had  been  tampering  with  the  bacon  which 
I  had  issued  him  on  Thursday.  On  examination  the  m^irks  of  a  knife  were  found  on  one  side  and  a'lout 
four  ounces  of  the  piece  were  missing.  A  fox-meat  stew  and  a  hard-bread  |)U(.kIing  made  us  cnmt%?.ratively 
happy,  both  at  breakfiist  and  dinner  time.  Through  driving  sharp  bargains  iluring  the  market  days,  Jewell 
became  the  possessor  of  two  dishes  of  pudding,  or  as  \Vhisler  expresses  it,  "a  double-barrel  stew,"  and  in 
disposing  of  both  he  made  himself  sick.  I  do  not  think  it  within  the  range  of  jiossibility  to  force  ourselves 
to  eat  these  incongruous  dishes  were  we  not  on  the  verge  of  starvation.  That  our  taste  is  blunted  is  evinced 
by  the  relish  and  keen  enjoyment  with  which  the  most  disgusting-looking  dish  of  hash  is  devoured.  Jens  is 
of  the  opinion  that  there  is  considcral)!e  open  water  in  Smith  Sound. 


■■%■■• 


478 


Till-:  liADV  1-UANKLIN  HAV  liXPEDITION. 


t    '' 


I      i 


Monihiv,  y,i>ii/iirv   7,  1884. — Weather  clear,   light    wintis   from   the   west,  anil   temperature    — ji.o 

I  made  the  discovery  this  morning  that  one  of  the  barrels  of  I-'nglish  bread  had  been  broken  into  and 
about  five  pounds  of  its  contents  extracted.  The  mark  of  an  ax  wlicre  the  staves  were  crushed  in  sliows 
what  instrument  was  used.  A  person  wlio  performed  a  certain  piece  of  work  in  the  vicinity  of  these  barrels 
a  few  days  ago  had  this  particular  ax  in  his  possession,  so  in  my  own  mind  there  is  no  difficulty  in  locating 
the  thief,  but  more  eviilence  is  necessary  before  an  open  accusation  should  be  made.  Re[)eated  calls  from 
all  portions  of  the  room  were  made  for  the  guilty  party  to  come  forward  and  acknowledge  openly  the 
atrocity  which  he  had  comnntted,  and  as  an  inducement  for  him  to  do  so,  all  the  others  would  contribute 
from  their  scanty  store  and  feed  him,  that  he  might  never  again  be  tempted.  We  can  hear  the  ice  moving 
in  Buchanan  Strait,  but  (."hristiansen  says  that  the  open  space  is  prol)ably  not  extensive.  The  temperature 
inside  the  house  ranges  from  +24.0  to  +i].o  f— 4.4'  C.  to'  —2.8'   C".]. 

'DuSihyy    yaituary  8,  1884. — Clear   weather,    light    winds   from    the    west,  and    temperature    —28.0 

In  view  of  the  irksome  duties  which  I  have  to  perform,  Lieutenant  Greely  kindly  offered  to  increase  my 
ration  of  bread  one  ounce ;  but  though  weak  and  badly  in  need  of  it  I  declined  on  the  grounds  of  injustice  to 
my  comrades,  preferring  to  take  even  chances  with  them  in  the  struggle  for  life.  A  fine  stew  of  seal  meat 
was  served  for  dinner,  which  drove  away  all  thoughts  of  care  and  trouble  for  a  few  hours. 

W'idiicsilay,  yaiiuar  9,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature,  —29.0  [—33.9"  C.].  Rice 
returned  from  a  visit  to  the  hill  and  reported  the  existence  of  a  misty  atmosphere  over  the  sound,  which 
denotes  the  presence  of  oi)en  water,  although  we  su[)posed  it  to  be  entirely  frozen  over.  Christiansen  and  I 
later  verified  this  rejiort,  and  saw  evidence  of  the  mischief  done  the  floe  by  the  late  storm.  The  vajmr 
was  rising  in  dense  clouds  from  the  many  fissures  in  the  pack,  and  the  startling  noises  caused  by  the  moving 
ice  came  distinctly  to  our  ears.  This  is  indeed  a  bitter  disappointment,  inasmuch  as  t!iis  disruption  may 
prevent  us  from  reaching  Littleton  Island  as  we  haveantici])ated.  Jens  complains  of  illness.  Dr.  Pavy  says 
the  noble  fellow  is  suffering  from  mental  anxiety  rather  than  physical  pain. 

It  is  just  five  months  to-day  since  we  abandoned  Fort  Conger  to  begin  the  retreat,  which  through  the 
inexperience  or  incajjacity  of  others  has  resulted  disastrously  to  us.  If  relief  is  to  come  to  us  this  is  a  good 
season  for  traveling,  the  moon  being  full.  I  was  nearly  paralyzed  by  the  low  tennieratures  while  making  the 
issues  this  morning.  Our  stock  of  tobacco  has  been  nearly  all  consumed  and  birch-bark,  willow  and  tea 
leaves  have  been  substituted.  Christiansen  drives  us  nearly  crazy  by  smoking  old  rags  and  other  jiromis- 
cuous  articles  not  noted  for  their  delicacy  of  odor.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  is  not  feeling  at  all  well;  Gar- 
diner is  also  ill,  and  all  the  others  very  weak,  but  during  the  last  fifteen  days  I  do  not  think  any  marked 
change  in  the  general  tone  has  taken  |)lace.     At  this  rate  we  will  j)robably  live  for  some  time. 

Thursday,  yaiiiidry  10,  18S3. — The  weather  is  calm  and  cloudy  and  the  temperature  — 28.5  [  —  33.6°  C.J. 
A  lunar  halo  was  observed  to-day.  It  possessed  no  unusual  features.  Ellis  complains  of  extreme  illness. 
His  speech  is  affected  to  such  an  extent  that  he  is  barely  able  to  make  himself  intelligible.  The  doctor 
attributes  this  to  the  excessive  use  of  tea  leaves  and  other  substances  in  lieu  of  tobacco.  The  smoking  of 
these  articles  has  been  prohibited  by  Lieutenant  Greely  in  the  cases  of  Ralston  and  Kllis.  Cross  and  Schnei- 
der, who  have  been  lying  down  almost  constant  for  several  days,  except  when  meals  were  served,  have  been 
directe<l  by  Lieutenant  Greely  to  sit  up  for  at  least  two  hours  each  day.  This  state  of  mental,  as  well  as 
physical,  inactivity  has  already  made  a  serious  impression  on  their  health.  Rice  explained  fully  to  Jens  that 
he  is  to  accomi)any  him  on  the  hazardcnis  journey  to  Littleton  Island  in  February.  The  faithful  fellow  feels 
tleeply  touched  that  he  should  have  been  selected  for  this  important  and  perilous  duty.  He,  however,  is  in 
excellent  spirits  and  will  do  his  level  best  for  the  party. 

Saline  matter,  for  several  days  past,  has  been  noticed  in  the  lake  water,  although  we  have  been  trying 
to  delude  ourselves  into  believing  that  it  is  not  so.  This  morning,  however,  the  presence  of  the  .salt  was  so 
marked  that  there  could  be  no  longer  room  for  tloubt.  It  is  supposed  that  the  tide  percolates  through  to 
the  lake. 

Friday,  yaniiaty  11,  1884. — Weather  clear;  light  westerly  winds  have  prevailed  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  day;  temperature,  —21.0°  [  —  29.4°].  A  slight  improvement  is  noted  in  the  mental  condition  of  those 
who  are  sick.  As  a  gener.al  thing  there  is  a  marked  absence  of  energy  among  the  members  of  the  ])arty. 
With  the  exception  of  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  Rice,  and  Salor,  they  are  reluctant  to  perform  labor  of  any 
kind.     The  cooks,  of  course,  are  not  included  in  this  category.     After  all,  a  person  who  lacks  ambition  under 


"i  '  V 


TFII'}  liAlJV  FlfANKMN  IJAY   KXTKIHTIOX. 


479 


these  circunistani  OS  should  not  be  criticised  or  judgeil  loo  harslily.     I'lacc  yourself  in  a  similar  situation  and 
rote  the  result. 

The  water  in  the  lake  was  found  very  nuich  lower  this  morninfi  and  on  testing  we  were  surprised  to 
dis(-()ver  that  it  had  received  another  solution  of  salt.  The  <  ooks  hejjan  using  the  barrel  staves  for  fuel  this 
morning.     There  are  sixteen  barrels  in  all,  and  we  exi)eet  them  to  last  forty-eight  days. 

Sii/iirii(i\\  'y<iniMiy  12,  1884. — Weather  clear;  light  westerly  winds  prevail;  temperature,  —18.5 
[  —  28.1°  C.J.  I.ockwood  is  very  weak;  he  has  saved  the  greater  jjortion  of  his  bread  and  meat  for  several 
days  to  enjoy  a  feast  when  a  suthciency  will  be  accimnilated.  He  freiiuently  talks  to  himself  about  food,  and 
for  h(nirs  he  stares  at  the  dim  Rskinx)  lamp,  without  taking  notice  of  anything  ])assing  on  about  him.  Some- 
times he  reijuests  that  the  lamp  be  kept  burning  during  the  night ;  and  in  many  ways  his  condutt  is  almost 
childish.  Iliederbic.k,  who  sleeiis  next  to  him,  is  of  the  o|)inion  that  his  mind  is  deranged — it  certaiidy 
is  greatly  weakened. 

'i'his  is  liie  tiiirty-fourth  amiiversary  of  Klison's  birthday.  It  is  also  just  ivm  months  since  we  snatched 
the  brave  fellow  from  the  grave's  brink  and  brought  him  to  this  abode  of  misery.  He  has  womlerl'ul  vitality 
antl  clings  to  life  with  a  pertinacity  worthy  of  his  nationality. 

Orders  have  been  issued  by  Lieutenant  Greely  [)rohibiting  the  use  of  tea  leaves  as  a  sui)stitule  for  tobacco. 
The  excessive  use  of  these  leaves  has  had  undoubtedly  a  batl  elTect  u|)on  the  general  health  of  the  party, 
and  the  order  is  received  as  wise  and  necessary.  We  were  all  indebted  to  Klison  this  evening  for  a  cigarette, 
which  he  desired  us  to  smoke  in  commemoration  of  his  birthilay.  Lieutenant  Greely  directed  me  to  increase 
the  bread  ration  to  6  ounces  per  man  per  diem.  It  has  been  5jj  ounces.  'I'he  ciiange  tiiough  slight  is 
nevertheless  a  welcome  one. 

A  large  vessel  filled  with  ice  is  daily  suspended  over  the  blubber  lainj).  In  this  way  nnicli  of  the  water 
usetl  for  our  tea  and  coffee  is  produced. 

Siiiiiiiiy,  'ydiiiuiry  13,  1884. — Cloudy  and  disagreeable  weather;  snow-storm  in  the  evening,  with  fresh 
wind;  temperature,  —21.0  (  —  29.4°  C.].  l.ockwood  is  rather  petulant,  but  with  the  best  of  reasons.  He 
talks  to  himself  in  a  cpiiet  way  about  his  favorite  dishes.  Kllis,  Limi,  Cross,  Ralston,  and  Jewell  are  also 
greatly  weakened  in  mind  and  badly  broken  in  physical  strength.  They  seldom  leave  their  bags  mdess 
coerceil.  Rum  and  lemon,  with  half  ounce  of  bread,  in  addition  to  the  regular  ration,  has  made  this  a  marked 
day  with  us.  We  tind  by  actual  test  that  one  barrel  will  scarcely  suffice  for  three  day's  fuel.  .\t  the  i)resent 
rate,  however,  we  have  enough  for  nearly  two  months. 

Mniiiiiiy,  yaiitiaiy  14,  1884. — Weather  cloudy,  and  the  wind  blew  i;liar|ily  all  day  ;  temperature,  —18.5" 
[— 28. i°C.].  Dr.  Pavy  tells  me  that  Cross,  Jewell,  Linn,  and  Ralstan  show  symptoms  of  scurvy.  They 
were  made  to  get  up  out  of  their  bags  for  a  short  time  this  morning  and  were  given  some  light  employment, 
which  worked  a  beneficial  effect  both  upon  their  minds  and  bodies. 

Lockwood  is  in  a  more  cheerful  frame  of  mind  than  he  has  been  for  days,  and  in  other  respects  also 
he  appears  much  better.  Klison  remains  in  about  the  same  condition ;  he  is  a  model  of  patience  anil  forti- 
tude. Considerable  ice  is  being  melted  daily  over  the  blubber  lani|)  to  supply  us  with  warm  drinks.  In 
this  way  we  manage  to  save  a  great  deal  of  our  fuel.  An  issue  of  four  ounces  of  raw  bacon  for  dinner  was 
greeted  by  all  with  favorable  comments.  Though  the  (juantity  of  food  is  small  we  nevertheless  have  a  large 
variety,  and  the  distributior.s  ordered  by  Lieutenant  Greely  are  generally  satisfai:tory. 

Tiiisday,  yaiiiuiiy  15,  1884. — Clear  weather,  with  light  westerly  winds;  temperature,  —27.5  |— 33.1°  C.|. 
The  doctor's  patients  are  apparently  somewhat  better  to-tlay.  The  supply  of  lake  water  gave  out  this 
morning.  We  cut  a  new  hole  through  where  the  lake  seemed  the  dee[)est,  but  found  gravel  instead  of  water. 
•  Another  hole  was  at  once  commenced,  but  it  will  be  pursued  with  but  slight  hopes  of  success.  Rice  began 
his  i)reparations  for  the  journey  across  to  Littleton  Island  by  making  stockings  from  dog  skin  cut  from  I'avy's 
sleeping-bag.  In  consequence  of  the  failure  of  the  lake  to  supply  more  water,  our  ration  of  tea  at  meals 
has  been  re  luced  to  one-half  pint  per  man.  For  the  present,  however,  the  stews  will  continue  as  they  are. 
Cross  has  resumed  his  former  work  of  sjilitting  the  staves  for  fuel.  Henry  assists  him  by  sawing  them  the 
proper  length  for  burning. 

W'cdiu'sday,  yaniiary  16,  1884. — Light  snow,  fresh  westerly  winds,  and  a  temperature  of  — 21.3 
j  — 29.6°C.]  kept  us  confined  closely  to  the  house  during  the  day.  There  has  been  no  particular  change 
in  our  affairs  since  yesterday.  This  morning  I  made  the  usu:i'  weekly  issues  of  provisions  except  bread, 
which,  for  obvious  reasons,  is  issued  daily.  Cross  is  growing  weaker  very  fast;  since  yesterday  morning  he 
has  failed  to  a  mar'red  degree  in  both  mental  and  physical  vigor. 


i 


480 


TIIK  LADY  PKANKr,I\  BAY  K\'PF<:iHT[()X. 


Whisler  repoits  having  dctectci!  tlie  doctor  in  llic  ad  of  purloining  brtail  (roni  Klison's  rations.  The 
doctor  sleeps  hc.sidc  his  helpless  patieiU  and  retains  the  latter's  provisions  in  his  charge. 

Thursday,  'yiiiiiiary  17,  1884. — C'alni  and  cloudy  weather;  temperature,  — 36.0  |  — ^^y.S"  (.'.  |.  Cross  is 
failing  rapidlv.  He  resuniecl  his  work  this  morning,  but  was  soon  com|ielled  to  abandon  it  from  extreme 
weakness.  Later  he  was  assigned  t^^  .a  single  sleeping-bag  and  placed  where  the  faithful  Hiedcrbick  could 
attend  to  his  wants.  He  appeared  to  be  delirious  and  talked  incoherently  of  his  luotiier,  of  his  birthday 
(whi(h  occurs  next  Sun»lay,  when  he  will  be  forty  years  of  age),  and  of  the  returning  sun.  Jens  is  of  the 
opinion  that  the  sound  is  broken,  and  that  a  considerable  water  s[tace  exists  in  the  axis  of  the  channel. 
The  ominous  water-clouds  alone  will  denote  this  state  of  things  to  the  observer.  Lieutenant  Cireely  has 
named  February  3  as  the  day  on  which  Rice  and  Jens  w  ill  brave  the  elements  by  beginning  their  hazardous 
journey  to  Littleton  Island  in  ipiest  of  assistance. 

The  reduction  in  the  (juantily  of  drink  issued  at  meals  is  not  .so  great  a  deprivation  as  we  hail  imagined 
it  would  be.  I  issued  the  weeklj'  allowance  of  seal  meat.  This  is  always  a  very  disagreeable  task  owing 
to  the  frozen  and  Hintdike  state  of  these  animals  after  having  been  exposed  for  so  long  a  time  in  the  cold 
storehouse. 

Friday,  yiviiuiry  18,  1884. — The  weather  is  clear  and  calm  ;  the  thermometer  indicated  a  temperature 
"*^  ~39-°  I  — 39'4°  ^'l'  ''"'  ^'^  ''!•-'  mercury  was  fro/en  and  our  spirit  thermometer  lost,  we  ha'.e  no  means 
of  a.scertaining  just  how  cold  it  has  been  to-day.  The  returning  light  is  ([uite  well  marked,  particularly  on 
the  tlistant  points  of  the  coast  line. 

Cross  declined  rapidly  during  the  night,  and  at  1.45  p.  ni.  he  breathed  his  last,  having  passed  quietly 
away  without  a  struggle.  Since  dinner  yesterday  he  had  been  unconscious,  but  had  talked  a  great  deal  in 
a  rambling  and  incoherent  sort  of  way.  He  will  be  buried  tomorrow  at  noon  on  the  low  gravelly  ridge 
separating  Camp  Clay  from  the  Proti-iis  wreck  cache,  As  wood  necessary  to  construct  a  cotfin  cannot  be 
spared,  I  suggested  wrapping  him  in  a  large  gunny  sack  which  I  have  in  the  commissary  store-house.  He 
died  from  dropsical  effusion  of  the  heart,  and  had  slight  symptoms  of  scurvy.  Disguised  under  the  cloak  of 
obscure  words,  the  cause  of  his  death  might  be  passed  over  by  a  casual  reader  without  conmient,  but  to  us. 
w  ho  have  sulit'ered  with  him,  ii  is  a|iparent  that  the  primary  <  ause  of  his  ilealh  was  itaiTiition,  In  a  few  well- 
chosen  words  Lieutenant  Greely  s|)oke  of  the  past  life  of  the  deceased,  and  called  attention  to  the  fact  that 
our  duty  should  now  be  to  the  living  and  not  to  the  dead,  and  that  this  should  be  no  occasion  for  depres.sion 
of  spirits.  Biederbick  was  unremitting  and  indefatigable  in  his  attentions  to  Cross  during  the  last  hours  of 
his  illness. 

While  on  the  hill  this  morning  I  saw  dense  clouds  of  vapor  rising  from  the  waters  of  Smith  Sound. 
This  is  indeed  unfortunate  for  Rice's  contemi)lated  trip  in  that  direction.  We  are  progressing  splendidly  on 
our  reducetl  allowance  of  tea  and  other  warm  drinks. 

Stitiirday,  yaniiary  19,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  mercury  is  again  frozen. 

The  remains  of  Cross  were  prepared  for  burial  by  'Jiederbick  and  myself,  and  wrapped  in  the  heavy 
sack  referred  to  yesterday.  Lieutenant  (Ireely  read  the  beautiful  and  impressive  Kpiscopal  service  while  we 
were  yet  in  our  sleeping-bags,  and  at  about  noon  the  solemn  procession  moved  slowly  across  the  lake  and 
up  the  gentle  incline  to  the  frozen  grave.  The  body  was  covered  with  the  stars  and  stripes,  and  borne  to  its 
last  resting-place  on  the  small  sleilge  which  already  has  a  history  in  connection  with  the  Elison  disaster  of 
last  autumn.  We  ranged  a  circle  of  stones  carefully  about  the  grave  of  our  lost  companion,  it  being  the  only 
attention  that  we  could  bestow  on  him  now.  One  cannot  cone  eive  of  anything  more  unearthly — more 
weird — than  this  ghostly  procession  of  emaciated  and  half-starved  n.en  moving  slowly  and  silently  away 
from  their  wretched  ice-prison  in  the  dim  and  uncertain  light  of  an  arctic  night,  having  in  their  midst  a  dead 
comrade,  who  was  about  to  be  laid  away  in  the  frozen  ground  forever.  It  was  a  scene  that  one  can  never 
forget.  It  will  forever  remain  vividly  pictured  in  my  memory  as  the  most  awe-inspiring  of  any  of  the  many 
thrilling  scenes  experienced  in  this  "Land  of  Desolation." 

The  bread  ration  has  been  increased  to  ly'^,  ounces. 

Sunday,  yaiiuary  20,  1884. —  Calm  and  cloudy;  the  mercury  is  again  frozen,  and  it  is  probable  that  the 
temperature  is  about  — 50.0  [ — 45.6°  C.].  It  is  to  be  deplored  that  we  have  no  spirit  thermometer  with 
which  to  record  the  extremely  low  temperature  prevailing  just  now.*     A  splendid  hard-bread  pudding  for 


♦NiiTK. — All  s|>irit  thurnioniflers  had  liccii  cacliud  except  the  minimum  .spirit  thermometer  which  was  blown  away  and 
lost  during  a  violent  gale.     It  was  found  the  following  spring  by  lirainard. — A.  W.  G. 


I 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXI'KDITION. 


4S1 


breakfast,  ami  a  bountiful  stew  of  seal  meat  for  dinner,  made  tliis  a  marked  d;iy  ainonj;  the  otlurs.  It  no 
longer  appears  strange  to  us  that  the  mind  can  expel  all  high  and  ennobling  thoughts,  and  dwell  con- 
stantly on  subjects  which  are  connected  in  son  e  way  with  food.  We  think  scarcely  of  anything  except  <>f 
eating,  and  what  we  have  eaten;  and  the  Sunday  bill  of  fare  is  gloated  over  as  if  it  were  a  least,  u)st>'ad  of 
a  wretched  mess  prepare<l  from  the  vilest  of  compojnds. 

Lockwood  is  growing  weaker  and  weaker.  He  said  to  me  a  few  days  ago;  "Tirainard,  I  have  lost  my 
^ip" — meaning  that  he  had  lost  the  l:tst  hope  of  life,  (iardiner  is  sutfering  with  cranips  in  his  stonuich. 
Dr.  I'avy  is  also  suftering  with  a  frost-bitten  foot.  Henry's  feet  are  badly  swollen  from  the  etVects  of  c<»ld 
and  inaction. 

I'salms  were  read  this  morning  by  Lieutenant  Oreely,  and  the  usual  issue  of  rum  and  lemon  was  made. 
Had  Cross  lived  until  to-day  he  would  have  been  forty  years  of  age. 

Moudity,  yaiiuivy  21,  i?84. — ('lear  weather,  light  westerly  wind;  temperature,  — ,u.o  |— 36.7''('.| 
While  taking  a(  count  of  provisions  to  day,  1  discovered  that  twelve  cans  of  milk  «  ere  missing  from  the  stores:. 
Tiiey  were  probably  stolen  before  the  supjilies  were  transferred  to  the  building  where  they  are  now  kept. 
The  weekly  ration  of  blubber  has  been  increased  to  eleven  ounces  per  man.  The  bread  ration  has  been 
iiK  reased  to  8|  ounces  per  man  per  diem,  or  57  ounces  weekly,  (iardiner  has  recovered  from  his  indispo- 
sition of  yesterday.  I'avy  and  Henry  arc  better,  but  Lockwood  is  greatly  depressed  in  spirits  and  has  about 
given  up  all  hope  of  life.  Tiie  raw  bacon  issued  for  dinner  was  greatly  relished  by  all;  it  appears  to  impart 
warmth  and  conifort  to  our  bodies,  and  in  general  it  is  much  more  satisfactory  than  any  other  food  in  our 
stock  of  provisions. 

TiicsiUiy,  jfaniiarY  22,  1884. — Weather  clear,  light  westerly  wind,  and  temperature  —28.8  [—33. 8"  C.]. 
The  temperature  inside  the  hut  this  morning  was  -f  20.8  [ —6.2°  C.J.  The  c(...'ition  of  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood  is  unchanged  since  yesterday.  Petulant  and  childish  remarks,  from  those  w"  >  should  know  better, 
have  produced  acrimonious  discussions  that  are  ])articularly  distasteful  to  many,  and  \\.,''h  tend  to  rer'der 
our  sufferings  more  excruciating  than  ever.  Owing  to  the  light  furnished  by  the  rapidly-rc'urning  sun,  ^ery 
few  stars  were  visible  at  noonday. 

]yi(/ntsi/(n\  yanuary  23,  1884. — A  cloudy,  windy,  and  stormy  day;  temperature.  —20.2  [  —  29.0°  C.|. 
Inside  the  hut  it  was  +190  [  —  7.2°  C.].  I  made  the  usual  weekly  issue  of  provisions.  Thus  far  we  have 
been  using  the  bread  found  in  the  English  caches;  but  now  our  own  bread  will  be  issued  four  times 
weekly.  The  seal-skin  stew  served  for  breakfast  was  an  excellent  one,  and  we  regret  exceedingly  that  there 
is  only  enough  remaining  for  one  more  issue.  Dr.  I'avy,  who  is  an  indefatigable  talker  on  all  subjects  and 
at  all  times,  enlivened  the  evening  by  recalling  reminiscences  of  his  journeyings  through  Switzerland  ami 
adjacent  countries.    Kane's  Arctic  Explorations  were  also  produced  and  read  aloud. 

T/iiirsi/ay,  yiinmvy  24,  1884. — Clear  weather,  with  light  westerly  winds  prevailing;  temperature,  —  20.0 
[  —  28.9°  C.].  Inside  it  is  +20.0  [—6.7  C.].  Lockwood  appears  to  be  in  better  spirits  to-day.  The  gen- 
eral health  of  the  party  appears  to  be  improving  slightly  under  the  effect  of  the  late  increase  of  rations. 
Tiie  "social  b.irometer"  has  certainly  risen  several  inches  in  the  last  two  days.  Raw  b.icon,  or,  as  Whisler 
terms  it,  "  Prairie  fish,"  was  again  issued  this  morning  with  beneficial  results.  A  chronological  table,  intro- 
ducing all  the  jirincipal  events  since  the  earliest  history  of  the  world,  was  read  this  evening  by  Lieutenant 
Cireely,  and  p.c.ed  of  great  interest  to  all.  Dr.  Pavy,  who  has  a  wonderfully  retentive  memory  and  an 
abundant  store  of  valuable  information  at  his  command,  supplies  many  missing  dates  that  we  may  want. 

Friday,  yaiiuary  25,  1884. — Weather  clear,  light  westerly  winds,  and  temperature  —22.0  [  — ^;o.o°  C.| 
Nothing  of  importance  has  occurred  since  yesterday.  I  have  closely  watched  the  changes  in  the  souud 
all  winter,  and  at  the  present  date  believe  it  to  be  open,  I  will  not,  however,  sjjcak  of  it  to  my  companions 
who  think  it  frozen,  for  fear  it  might  cause  them  to  feel  depressed  in  spirits.  It  is  better  that  their  minds 
should  remain  in  a  hopeful  state.  Biederbick  i-  I'venty-five  years  of  age  to-day.  A  fine  stew  of  seal  meat 
served  at  dinner  put  us  all  in  a  cheerful  \ya.v^v.  of  n.ind. 

Saturday,  yaiiuary  26,  1884. — C;li)i  and  clear  weat'ie. :  temperature,  —26.0  [— 32,2°C.].  Inside  the 
house  it  is  +24.0  [—4.4°  C.].  Our  ijm.er,  consisting  of  t  iglisli  canned  beef  and  dog-hiscuit,  was  greatly 
relished  by  all.  The  increase  of  rti -n?,  to  Rice  and  }'-  >,,  to  place  them  in  good  physical  condition  to 
undertake  the  hardships  which  th";  w  U  e-counter  on  'iici.  contenii)lated  trip  to  the  Creenland  coast,  began 
to-day.  Christiansen  celebrated  his  jyth  birthday  in  the  usual  manner.  The  doctor's  pitients  are  about  the 
same;  no  material  change  having  taken  place  (iuring  the  last  week.  Jewell's  conduct  has  been  that  of  a 
child  instead  of  a  man  during  the  last.  Rhv  days.  But,  with  hunger  slowly  consuming  his  life,  the  poor  fellow 
H.  Mis.  393 31 


!  I 


4H2 


TUE  LADV  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


» annot  be  blamed  for  saying  and  doing  foolish  things.     A  bag  of  English  bread  which  I  liad  estimated  at 
7Q  pounds,  was  found,  on  adding  together  the  various  issues,  to  have  actually  contained  153  [xnnids. 

Dark  water-clouds  overlianging  Smith  Sound  suggest  to  the  mind  the  existence  of  a  great  expanse  of 
o|iC"  water  in  that  direction.  In  view  of  this  fact  I  am  fearful  that  Rice  will  meet  with  obstacles  in  the 
form  of  leads  of  waicr,  and  will  be  compelled  tc  turn  back  to  us  without  accomplishing  his  mission. 

Siiiidtiy,  'yanudiy  27,  1884.— A  beautitul  day;  the  weather  is  clear  and  calm,  and  a  glorious  diffusion 
of  light  in  the  souihern  sky  gives  promise  of  the  speedy  return  of  the  long-absent  sun.  On  returning  front 
a  visit  to  the  hill,  Rice  reported  the  (ireenland  coast  visible  and  that  no  indication  of  open  water  anywhere 
appeared.  In  order  that  they  might  be  better  able  to  withsiand  the  cftects  of  the  low  temperature  anil  the 
fatigues  of  their  long  trami),  Dr.  I'avy  subjected  the  feet  of  l-'.i(-e  and  Jens  to  a  severe  treatment  of  rubbing 
and  beating  to  restore  circulation  to  its  normal  state.  Three  white  foxes  were  seen  during  the  day;  tem- 
perature,  -36.0  [-37.8°  C.J. 

Monday,  yaiiuaiy  28,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature  at  8  a.  m.,  —36.0  f  — 37.°8  C] ;  at 
noon,  —38.2  [  — 39.o°C.|.  I  visited  Lookout  Hill  during  the  morning,  and  nolwitiistanding  the  highly 
favorable  reports  of  yesterday  regarding  the  condition  of  the  sound,  I  still  think  it  remains  unfrozen.  I  saw 
a  white  fox  in  the  rocks  above  our  camp  while  ascemling  the  hill.  Through  my  inability  to  ilistharge  the 
gun — the  low  temperature  having  affected  the  lock — the  coveted  animal  esca|)ed.  Rice  began  work  on  the 
sleepiiig-bag  which  he  and  Jens  will  carry  on  their  trip  to  Litdeton  Island.  It  is  a  one-man  dog-;, kin  bag, 
and  will  be  enlarged  to  accommodate  two  men.  Frederick,  in  addition  to  his  duties  as  cook,  is  sewing  fur 
Rice  on  this  uag  and  on  his  fur  garments. 

Lieutenant  Greely  authorized  me  to  make  the  following  extra  issue  to  each  mess  to-morrow :  Bread 
dust,  10  ounces;  and  blubber,  8  ounces.  On  days  when  English  meat  and  bacon  are  issued  Elison  will 
receive  three  ounces  extra  of  each. 

Lieutenant  Greely  stated  in  confidence  that,  in  consccjucnce  of  the  gready  weakened  mind  of  Lleutcn. 
ant  Lockwood,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  would  assume  the  command  in  tiie  event  of  incapacity  to  himself. 
This  he  considered  as  only  justice  to  the  party,  owing  to  ihe  physical  as  well  as  the  mental  incapacity  of  the 
second  officer.     Dr.  Pavy  said  to-day  th.at  if  Lockwood  did  not  "brace  up"  he  would  never  recover. 

A  new  industry  sprang  up  in  our  midst  to-day — that  of  manufacturing  steariiie  candles,  with  Henry  as 
the  director.  It  is  intended  to  use  these  as  a  substitute  for  blubber  in  lighting  our  hut.  By  so  doing  we  will 
be  enabled  to  increase  our  ration  of  the  latter, 

Tuesday,  yainiary  29,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature,  —32.0  [—35.6"  C.].  Inside  the 
hut  at  time  of  lighting  the  cooking-stove  this  morning  the  thermometer  indicated  .1  temperature  of  +24 
[  —  4.4°  C],  but  while  the  cooks  were  preparing  dinner  it  rose  to  +38.0  [-f  3.3°  C.|.  Rice  and  Erederiiik 
resumed  work  on  their  sleeping-bag  this  morning.  Jens  is  sewing  faithfully  on  dog-skin  nnttens  and  stock- 
ings, which  will  be  used  while  on  his  trip  with  Rice  to  Greenland.  Henry  is  still  making  candles.  We  are 
now  using  the  mixed  tea  and  sugar  found  in  the  English  cache  at  Payer  Harbor.  It  has  been  greatly  in- 
jured l)y  dami)ness. 

Lockwood  is  weake;.  We  were  provided  with  an  excellent  stew  of  seal  meat  this  evening.  This 
a|)pears  to  be  the  greatest  blessing  -.vith  which  we  are  supplied.  It  does  everything  to  im|)art  warmth  to  our 
bodies  by  replenishing  the  internal  fuel,  i:nd  it  is  so  palatable  that  the  keenest  enjoyment  is  derived  in  its 
consumption.     I  went  out  gunning  for  foxes  this  morning,  but  saw  nothing. 

Wedihsday,  yaniiaiy  30,  1884. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather ;  temiierature  at  8  a.  m.,  —36  [—37.8°  C.| ; 
at  noon  it  was  — 24  [—31.1°  C] ;  inside  Init,  +23.0  [  —  5.0°  C.J.  Lockwood  is  growing  steadily  weaker 
and  weaker;  he  talks  but  seldom  now,  and  stares  vacantly  about.  Christiansen  is  suffering  with  cramiis  in 
his  stomach.     Tiie  noble  fellow  complmns  but  litfie  of  his  condition. 

Ralston  relieved  Henry  this  morning  as  foreman  of  the  stearine-candle  establishment,  and  he  has 
already  made  important  imjirovements  in  die  methods  of  manufacturing.  Bender  is  working  on  a  cooking, 
lamp  for  Rice;  he  is  decidedly  disagreeable,  coarse,  aud  insulting  in  his  remarks.  He  accused  me  of  being 
more  considerate  of  the  welfare  of  others  than  of  his  own,  bul  l)rought  no  facts  to  sup|)ort  his  assertions. 
Schneider  may  be  considered  in  the  same  category,  but,  being  more  of  a  hyijocrite  tlian  the  former,  is  not 
so  reckless  with  his  insinuations.     I  issued  the  last  of  the  canned  peas  to-day. 

Thursday,  jfaiiuary  31,  18^,4. — Weather  is  cloudy;  light  wind,  and  temperature,  —6.0  [  — 21.1"^  C.|.  1 
put  U])  rations  for  six  days  for  Rice  and  Jens  to  lake  wilii  them  011  their  Greenland  trip.  The  amounts  were 
as  follows:  Lime-juice  pemmiean,  2  pounds;  sweet  pemmican,  2  [lounds;   JMiglish  boiled  bacon,  2  [jounds; 


I 


TlIU  LAUV  KUANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


483 


liro.ii],  9  potiiuls;  tea,  '^^  pound;  alcohol  (for  fuel),  f)6  ounces,  and  rum,  6  yills.  Unikr  the  most  trying 
lirciiiiistances  Mender  has  made  an  excellent  lamp  for  fielii  service,  which  Rice  and  Jens  will  take  with  then). 
Lieutenant  Greely  has  prepared  a  record  for  Rice  to  depofut  on  the  summit  of  Littleton  island  in  the  event 
of  his  failure  to  meet  any  one  there.  He  has  also  made  out  a  short  list  of  provisions  which  he  desires  will  he 
hrought  over  by  the  relief  i)arty — ])rovided,  of  course,  a  relief  party  is  there;  and  Dr.  I'avy  has  futnisheil  a 
list  of  the  medicines  must  needed  at  this  time,  which  Rice  will  also  take  with  him. 

A  good  piece  of  r:nv  hacon,  nine  ounces  of  United  States  bread,  and  half  a  cup  of  hot  tea  jilaied  us  ah 
on  good  terms  with  ourselves  this  evening.  Lockwood,  poor  fello\.-,  is  not  improving  at  all;  1  think  I  can 
see  death  in  his  eyes. 

Fiiiltn\  Fehniaiy  ,  18S4. — The  weather  is  cloudy  and  disagreeable;  a  light  westerly  wind  is  causing 
considerable  drift ;  tem,)erature,  —  15.5  \~^(■>.\°  C.|,  Two  foxes  were  seen  to-d;i),  bm  neither  was  taken  by 
the  watchful  hunters.  Rice's  ei!ui|)ment  for  the  dangerous  journey  to  the  (Ireenland  coast  is  \\k<\\  complete, 
and  he  will  start  to  uiorrow  m')rning  if  the  weather  is  mild  enough  to  permit  him  to  ('o  .-.o.  I.iiulenani 
Lockwood  is  no  better.  1  wish  he  would  be  more  cheerful;  it  would  have  such  a  beneficial  ellect  on  his 
condition,  and  every  one  else  wt)uld  fee!  better  in  his  iinprovement. 

One  of  the  tinest  meals  that  we  have  ever  ktiown  ii>  this  place  was  served  this  evening.  1 1  was  <-oni- 
posed  of  seal  meal  and  lime-juice  petnniican;  the  latter  imparting  a  thoroughly  agreeable  llavor  which  was 
doubly  welcome  because  it  was  a  change  from  the  every-day  mess. 

liender  and  Wlii;  ler  would  make  good  subjects  f(>i'  discipline.  Thev  engaged  in  a  serious  i|uanel 
and  the  former,  refusing  to  obey  Lieutenant  Greeiy's  orders  to  ilesist,  was  sent  by  him  into  the  vestibule  to 
"cool  off." 

Saliiitiay,  Fi-bniury  2,  18S4.  — Cloudy  weather;  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —  19.0 
(-28.3"  C-.];  at  noon, -27.5  I -33.1"  ('.]. 

The  cooks  were  called  at  4.45  a.  m.  to  enable  Rice  and  Jens  to  secure  an  early  start.  They  left  at  8.  (5. 
While  at  breakfist  every  one  appeared  in  ''le  best  of  spirits  atid  each  one  endeavored  to  imbue  Rice  uith 
his  own  bright  view  of  the  future.  Mut  to  a  close  observer,  this  appearaiu;e  of  cheerfulness  was  all  tuned 
and  superficial,  to  give  ourage  and  strength  to  the  brave  souls  who  were  about  to  do  battle  with  the  elements 
and  face  every  danger  known  to  the  arctic  regions,  for  us  who  remain  inactive  here,  powerless  to  assist.  There 
lurked,  deej)  down  in  the  heart  of  every  man,  a  feeling  of  dread  of  the  future — a  pr(;scntimentof  impending 
evil.  Christiansen  and  myself  took  their  i)acks  (averaging  about  40  pounds  each)  and  started  ahead  in 
order  to  give  them  a  "lift  "  in  the  begimiing  of  their  journey,  liefore  we  had  gone  far  Rice  and  Jens  o\er- 
took  us,  and  the  rille  atid  packs  were  transferred  to  them.  .\  tremulous  "  Ooil  bless  you,  "  a  hasty  ])re:;suie 
of  tiieir  hands,  atul  we  turned  away  in  tears  from  those  brave  tnen  who  were  daring  and  about  to  endure  Mt 
nr.ich  for  our  sakes.  We  waited  until  their  receding  forms  were  lost  to  view  in  the  bewildering  coniusion  of 
the  ice-fields,  and  then  slowly  retraced  our  steps  to  the  hut.  While  watching  their  |)rogress  1  distinctly  heard 
the  hoarse  grinding  of  the  moving  pack  not  far  away.  Hut  of  this  I  said  nothing  to  my  companions  on 
returning  to  them,  because  of  the  depressing  efVuct  which  such  information  was  sure  to  produce  on  their 
minds.  It  is  my  opinion  that  Rice  will  be  turned  back  by  open  water  ;ind  his  heroic  efforts  in  our  behalf 
thus  rendered  fruitless.  If  he  succeeds  in  reaching  Littleton  Islanil  and  should  find  no  party  there,  he 
will  endeavor  to  procure  assistance  from  the  natives,  and  with  their  teams  cross  to  this  side,  leaving  Jens, 
who  will  hunt  until  our  arrival. 

Alter  the  exertion  of  carrying  the  pack  this  morning  I  was  prostrated  with  a  nervous  chill,  but  luive 
been  revived  somewhat  by  aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia  and  rum.  Long  was  fortunate  eiiuugh  to  shoot  a 
blue  fox  this  morning,  which  will  furnish  us  with  nearly  meat  enough  for  one  meal.  Lieutenant  (Irecly 
ordereil  the  fi)llowing  change  in  the  issues  of  provisions,  which  went  into  effect  yesterday :  Bread,  from  5,7  o/. 
to  64  oz.  weekly,  per  man  ;  blubber,  from  1 1  oz.  to  ^lYi  oz. 

'I'he  light  was  sulliciently  strong  at  noon  to  admit  of  the  reading  of  the  thennometer  uithmit  using  a 
lantern.  LockwooJ  appears  somewhat  better  this  morning;  he  went  out  in  the  vestibule  during  the  day 
f(jr  exercise,  and  seemed  benefited  by  the  change.  Christiansen  astonished  us  all  by  .iiiiiouiu  iiig  his  intentimi 
of  committing  suicide.     He  is  prol)ably  somewhat  down-hearteil  since  the  departure  of  his  dusky  brnthci. 

Sunday,  Fcbruaiy  2,,  1884. — Weather  fair;  temperature  at  8  a.  m.,  —.'6.0  [—32.2"  C.|;  at  11  o'<  lo(  k 
it  rose  to  — 18.0  |  —27.8"  C.].  A  light  wind  was  blowing  from  the  west  this  morning,  but  towards  evening  it 
increased  in  velocity  to  a  moderate  gale. 

I'oor  Rice!   We  are  all  thinking  abyut  him  and  his  brave  companion,  Jens,  exposed  as  they  ar.;  to  the 


/  w 


:  ■'! 


':\     li! 


itili*! 


484 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION, 


fury  of  the  slorm,  which  is  probably  much  worse  on  the  floe  of  Smith  Sound  than  in  this  place.  Jewell  fell 
down  in  a  dead  faint  tiiis  evening,  and  was  revived  by  the  doctor  only  after  great  dililiculty.  Connell  has 
also  been  feeling  unwell.  In  both  cases  Dr.  Pavy  attributes  the  difficulty  to  the  blubber  which  was  in  the 
stew  uiis  evening.  The  exposure  and  exertion  of  yesterday  has  left  me  in  anything  but  an  agreeable  or  desira- 
ble condition.  Having  caught  a  severe  cold  it  has  settled  in  all  my  joints  and  muscles,  and  my  face,  hands, 
and  limbs  are  greatly  swollen.  Notwithstanding  the  orders  of  Lieutenant  Greely  prohibiting  the  eating  of 
stearine,  Schneider  was  detected  in  the  act  of  swallowing  some  of  it  to-day. 

Monday,  Fchriiaiy  i„  1884 — Cloudy  weather,  light  westerly  winds,  and  temperature  —24.5  [  —  31.4°  C.]. 
The  thermometer  was  read  at  noon  by  the  light  from  the  southern  horizon  without  the  aid-of  a  lantern. 
Snow  began  fiiUing  during  the  evening.  I  feel  no  better  to-day.  The  doctor  seemed  alarmed  at  my  con- 
dition, but  I  cannot  imagine  that  it  is  so  serious.  Jewell  anil  Connell  have  recovered  from  their  overdose 
of  blubbeHaken  in  the  stew  yesterdiy.  Lockwood  appecrs  to  be  gaining  in  strength;  he  got  up  and 
moved  about  the  interior  of  the  hut  without  assistance.  L'jnder  manufactured  some  candlesticks,  and 
Ralston  molded  a  few  stearine  candles.  Two  more  stews  have  been  added  to  the  weekly  number.  I  am 
afraid  that  this  is  more  than  our  limited  fuel  supply  can  endure. 

Biederbick  is  now  apparently  in  excellent  condition,  although  he  has  been  a  faithful  and  indefatigable 
worker  in  the  interests  of  the  sick.  When  he  left  Fort  Conger  in  August  last  he  could  scarcely  walk  with- 
out assistance,  so  crippled  was  he  in  consequence  of  rheumatism.  In  the  face  of  all  this  hunger,  dampness, 
and  exposure,  he  has  steadily  improved  in  health. 

Tuesday,  February  5,  1884. — Calm  and  cloudy;  temperature,  —23.0  [—30.6°  C.J.  The  Greenland 
coast  at  Cape  Inglefield  was  seen  to-day  for  the  first  time. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  has  improved  greatly  during  the  last  few  days;  I  also  am  much  better.  Tlie 
doctor  says  my  illness  is  the  result  of  exposure  and  greater  physical  exertion  than  my  weak  frame  is  capable 
of  enduring.  I  issued  a  portion  of  the  weekly  allowance  to  make  my  duties  lighter  to-morrow.  Blubber 
has  been  increased  to  eighteen  ounces  per  week.  Whisler  is  particularly  disagreeable ;  he  appears  to  be 
growing  more  quarrelsome  every  day. 

Wednesday,  February  6,  1884. — Cloudy,  fresh  southeast  wind,  and  temperature  —20.2  [  — 29.o°C.|. 
Snow  fell  at  intervals,  and  the  weather  has  been  very  disagreeable  generally. 

As  I  predicted  on  the  morning  of  their  departure,  Rice  and  Jons  returned,  having  met  with  open  water 
about  two  miles  east  of  Brevoort  Island.  They  followed  along  the  water's  edge  to  the  southwaid  until 
opposite  Baird  Inlet,  .vpecting  to  find  some  point  where  the  sound  was  "bridged"  over  by  the  i(  e,  thus 
enabling  them  to  cross  to  Littleton  Island.  But  on  every  side  they  met  with  bitter  disappointments  and 
were  at  last  compelled  to  return.  Rice  says  the  belt  of  shore  ice  is  about  ten  miles  wide  at  Baird  Inlet, 
but  of  the  extent  of  the  water  he  can  form  no  opinion  owing  to  the  dense  fog  and  vapor  constantly  rising 
from  its  surface,  which  prevents  an  extended  view.  In  this  water-space  considerable  quantities  of  ice  were 
observed  to  be  drifting  with  the  tide.  Last  night  both  suffered  greatly ;  Jens  frosted  his  fingers  while  in 
the  sleeping-b-Tt?  and  Rice  thawed  thei  1  out  by  placing  them  in  contact  with  his  own  warm  body.  They 
then  get  up  and  van  abotit  in  the  snow  to  keep  from  freezing  until  there  should  be  sufficient  light  to  enable 
them  to  travel.  Jens  is  badly  broken  down  and  Rice  is  but  little  better  off.  Their  lamp  for  melting  ice 
proved  ineffective,  and  for  two  days  they  had  scarcely  a  swallow  of  water.  Rice  estimates  the  distance 
traveled  at  fifty  miles. 

Thursday,  Febnuvy  7,  1884. — Clear  weather,  light  west  wind;  temperature,  —27.5  [  —  33.1°  C.].  Lock- 
wood  is  better.  He  has  been  receiving  an  extra  allowance  of  bread,  but  owing  to  his  marki-d  improvement 
it  was  discontinued  to-day.  I  am  in  better  condition  than  yesterday.  Rice  and  Jens  are  very  sf)re  and 
stiff  in  their  joints,  but  on  the  whole  they  are  better  than  we  had  expected  they  would  be  under  the  cir- 
cumstances. Poor  fellows !  how  they  must  have  suffered  while  struggling  along  on  their  errand  of  mercy 
across  the  rugged  and  barren  pack.  Lieutenant  Greely  ;  .vys  he  will  not  start  betbre  Marcli  6  to  cross  the 
channel  to  Littleto.i  Island.  If  it  (the  channel)  is  not  closed  at  that  date  there  will  be  but  little  hope  of 
its  closing  this  sc.ison,  and  we  will  be  compelled  to  remain  where  we  are.  In  this  event  our  provisions  can 
probably  be  extended  to  some  time  in  April,  'i'his  is  not  a  particularly  cheering  view  of  the  future  for  men 
who  have  lived  thiough  the  worst  part  of  a  wretched  winter,  and  now,  when  the  hour  of  succor  is  at  hand, 
to  die  miserably  by  star\'ation. 

FridiiY,  February  8,  1884. — C'lear  and  calm  weather.  Tiie  mercury  is  again  fro/en,  I)ut  it  has  been  a 
beautiful  day  nevertheless.     I  think  I  have  entirely  recovered  my  health  again,  but  my  strength  lias  not  yet 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


485 


returned.  I  took  an  inventory  of  the  provisions  this  afternoon,  and  found  on  calculating  roughly  that  we 
could  remain  here  for  70  days  if  we  restricted  ourselves  to  4  ounces  of  meat  and  8  ounces  of  bread  per  day. 

Notwithstanding  the  impracticability  of  traveling  across  the  pack  to  Littleton  Island  next  month, 
l)reparations  fcr  that  trip  will  go  actively  forward.  Boards  composed  of  members  of  the  party  have  been 
appointed  by  Lieutenant  Greely  to  attend  to  all  details  in  this  matter.  Rice  and  myself  have  been  instructed 
to  estimate  the  weight  of  every  article  that  we  would  take  with  us,  and  thus  find  the  approximate  weight  of 
our  load.  Lieutenant  Rislingbury  was  directed  to  take  an  inventory  of  the  foot-gear  now  on  hand  and  to 
make  a  list  of  what  was  wanted,  and  then  submit  his  report  to  Lieutenant  Clreely. 

It  is  just  six  months  since  we  left  our  comfortable  quarters  at  Fort  Conger  for  the  uncertainty  of  meeting 
a  vessel  on  this  coast.     Bender  was  quite  ill  last  evening,  but  he  is  somewhat  better  now. 

Satun/iiy,  February  9,  1884. — The  weather  is  clear  and  calm.  The  mercury  is  again  frozen  to-day, 
but  owing  to  the  absence  of  wind  no  one  appears  to  mind  the  increased  cold  weather  much.  All  the  inva- 
lids appear  to  be  improving  now.  Lieutetiant  Greely  has  decided  to  reduce  the  ration  of  bread  on  Monday 
next  to  8  ounces  per  day.  • 

Sunday,  February  10,  1884. — Clear  weather,  light  wind,  and  temperature  —36.5  J  — 38.1°  C.J.  Both 
the  morning  and  evening  meals  were  very  satisfactory  to-day,  and  some  of  the  men  were  almost  hilarious 
in  consequence. 

A  reduction  in  our  bread  ration  to  59  ounces  weekly  will  take  place  from  to-morrow.  The  weekly 
ration  of  blubber  has  been  placed  at  1 3  ounces  per  man,  and  the  meat  ration  has  been  increased  i  y^  ounces 
weekly.  On  the  authority  of  my  inventory  of  provisions,  we  can  remain  here  until  March  12  on  our  present 
ration,  and  then  have  full  provisions  for  ten  days  with  which  to  cross  to  Littleton  Islar.l. 

Monday,  February  11,  1884. — Cloudy  and  disagreeable  weather;  light  westerly  winds;   temperature, 

-37-0  [-38-3°  C.]. 

I  visited  the  hill  this  morning  and  from  its  summit  could  hear  very  distinctly  the  crushing  of  the  mov- 
ing pack  in  Buchanan  Strait.  It  sounded  not  unlike  distant  thunder,  and  there  was  much  in  this  booming 
noise  to  produce  a  feeling  of  unrest  and  dread  in  the  listener.  In  our  situation  especially  this  feeling 
would  naturally  result,  as  our  lives  depend  on  the  quiescent  state  of  the  ice.  The  heavy  water-clouds  were 
unnecessary  to  indicate  to  us  the  presence  of  much  water;  the  deep  moaning  of  the  ice  was  sufficient  to  tell 
the  story.  Are  those  portentous  clouds  an  augury  of  our  future?  Cm  we  save  ourselves  from  starvation 
now  in  view  of  this?  I  fear  not.  Without  firm  ice  on  which  to  cross  the  sound  to  Littleton  Island  but 
slight  hopes  for  life  can  remain  to  us.  The  words  contained  in  Lieutenant  Garlington's  record,  written 
after  the  crushing  of  the  Proteus  by  ice,  that  "Everything  within  the  power  of  man  will  be  done  to  rescue 
the  brave  men  at  Fort  Conger  from  their  perilous  position,"  brought  tears  to  tlie  eyes  of  the  strong  men 
who  listened  to  the  reading  of  the  letter  that  night  in  October  in  our  dimly  lighted  hut  at  Eskimo  Point. 
Situated  as  we  then  were  his  words  inspired  us  with  tiope,  but  months  have  [jassed  without  bringing  the 
j)romised  assistance,  and  now  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  his  hopeful  words  were  written  without  due  con- 
sideration, and  without  a  full  knowledge  or  appreciation  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered. 

In  estimating  the  weights  of  the  necessary  articles  to  be  carried  on  our  contemplated  journey  across 
Smith  Sound,  Rice  and  myself  find  that  they  will  aggregate  about  1,600  pounds.  Nearly  every  one  joined 
in  a  discussion  this  morning  relative  to  our  equipment  for  this  trip.  Lieutenant  Greely  directed  me  to  issue 
stofkings,  mittens,  &:c.,  to  those  in  need  of  them,  in  order  that  they  might  have  them  thawed  and  dried 
before  the  date  fixed  for  our  departure.  I  issued  the  last  of  the  seal  meat  and  also  the  remainder  ol  the 
American  bacon.  The  weight  of  the  former  exceeded  the  estimate  by  17  pounds,  the  latter  by  8  pounds. 
In  emptying  the  rum  cask  I  found  a  shortage  in  its  contents  of  about  two  gallons.  The  deficiency  is 
accounted  for  from  the  fact  that  all  issues  have  been  made  with  an  I'^p.glish  standarti  measure  instead  of  the 
one  in  use  in  the  United  States,  the  former  being  the  larger. 

Tuesday,  February  12,  1884. — Clear  and  calm;  the  temjierature  is  very  low,  mercury  being  frozen.  We 
judge  the  temperature  to  be  about  50°  bejow  zero  |about  —45.0°  C.]. 

Rice  reports  having  had  a  good  view  of  the  sound  from  Cemetery  Ridge,  and  says  that  a  large  space 
of  open  water  <-ould  be  seen.  The  noise  made  by  the  crushing  ice  can  be  distinctly  heard  in  our  camp.  I 
do  not  diink  I  am  mclincd  to  look  on  the  gloom)-  side  of  the  future,  even  after  all  the  d  -.ngers  and  hardships 
by  which  we  lia\e  been  beset;  but  if  the  state  of  the  sound  will  not  ])ermit  us  to  cross  before  our  ])rQvisions 
are  exhausteil,  and  no  assistance  comes  from  the  other  side,  we  are  certainly  doomed  to  die  a  wretched  death 
by  starving. 


' ;   ! 


I      1 


48() 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


I  opened  a  new  barrel  of  bread  this  morning,  and  found  a  few  of  the  pieces  slightly  moldy.  This  was 
rather  unexpected  as  the  barrel  is  one  of  those  taken  from  the  Beebe  cache.  The  stew  of  roast  beef  (canned) 
and  pemniican  prepared  for  dinner  was  well  flavored  and  particularly  liked. 

Wednesday,  February  13,  1884. — Clear  weather,  light  westerly  winds,  and  temperature  —36.0  [—37.8° 
C.].  I  served  some  of  the  members  with  clothing,  and  issued  the  usual  weekly  sup|)ly  of  provisions.  The 
last  of  our  rice  went  to-day.  The  provisions  will  extend  to  March  12,  at  the  least  calculation.  Some  have 
suggested  that  my  scales  must  possess  the  power  of  magic  in  order  to  extend  the  bread  and  meat  ns  they 
have  done.  A  stew  of  bread,  bacon,  and  salt  water  was  tried  this  even-ng,  and  was  at  once  pronounced  a 
decided  success.  In  our  present  ra\enous  condition,  I  do  not  deem  it  possible  that  any  dish  could  be  intro- 
duced here  that  would  not  be  voted  a  success.  Frederick  has  begun  the  irksome  duty  of  repairing  our  seal- 
skin boots;  tlie  work  tries  his  wounded  fingers  greatly,  but  he  is  not  one  to  succumb  easily  to  triHes.  On 
overlooking  the  sound  from  Cemetery  Ridge  this  morning,  I  was  greatly  surprised  to  fiml  that  the  water 
had  encroached  to  Brevoort  Island,  and  that  it  extended  northward  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 

Thursday,  Fi/iniaiy  14,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temi)erature  at  8  a.  m.,  — 17.0  [  —  27.2°  C.J; 
at  1 1  a.  111.  it  had  fallen  to  — 28,0°  [—^li-i"  C.J.  The  water  appears  to  be  steadily  encroaching  on  the  ice 
at  Cajie  Sabine.  The  clouds,  however,  which  are  produced  by  this  increasing  space  of  open  water,  are  less 
marked  than  yesterday.  To  day  my  hunger  has  led  me  to  think  and  talk  much  about  food;  and  all  sorts 
of  incongruous  combinations  that  could  be  suggested  to  the  minds  of  hungry  men  were  discussed.  It  now 
cx'curs  to  us  that  this  is  St.  Valentine's  Day,  but  I  think  diat  none  of  us  expect  to  be  the  recipient  c)f  a  missive 
of  that  sort  just  now.  A  small  jiiece  of  butter  was  found  missing  from  a  can  kept  in  the  whale-boat  on  the 
same  shelf  with  Henry's  candle-molds. 

Friday,  February  15,  1884. — Clear  weather;  fresh  westerly  wind;  tenii)eraturc,  —25.3  [— 3i.8°(".|; 
inside  the  house  it  ranges  from  -|-2i.o  [  —  6.1°  C.|  to  -I-25.0  [  — 3.9°C'.J. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  is  better,  but  he  does  not  gain  as  rajiidly  as  we  would  like.  He  exercised  some- 
what this  morning.  The  sun  will  apjjear  above  the  horizon  to-morrow  for  the  first  time  this  year,  if  the 
temperature  should  fall  to  —50.0  [  —  45.6°  C.|  in  the  mean  time.  We  are  not  very  enthusiastic  over  its 
return,  but  each  one  thinks  more  than  he  cares  to  express  in  words.  Schneider,  Ellis,  and  Salor  are  sewing 
on  boots,  stockings,  mittens,  and  other  articles  for  use  on  our  contemplated  trip  to  Oreenland.  Frederick 
and  Jens  jierforin  the  most  ini|)ortant  i>art  of  this  work — that  of  [)re|iaring  the  soles  of  the  boots. 

The  time  is  dragging  wearily,  but  we  try  to  keep  up  our  spirits  even  imderthe  most  trying  and  discoiu- 
aging  circumstances.  'J'he  few  moments  spent  at  our  meals  are  the  only  pleasant  ones  that  we  know  during 
the  entire  day.  The  party  appear  to  be  doing  very  well  on  the  present  reduced  ration.  I  am  afraid  that 
Bender  will  render  our  condition  absolutely  wretched  if  he  conjnues  to  develop  the  contemitible  cpialities 
with  which  he  has  regaled  us  (hiring  the  last  few  days. 

Saturday,  February  \(i,  1884. — Clear  weather;  fresh  west  wind,  and  temiierature  —22.5  1—30.3°  (".]. 
Owing  to  the  high  temperature  to-d.ay,  we  were  not  favored  by  seeing  the  sun  above  the  horizon  at  noon; 
neillier  could  its  reflection  be  seen  on  Bache  Island.  I  overhauled  the  shot-gun  ammunition  to-day  and 
made  an  inventory  of  the  same.  We  have  in  all  two  hundred  and  sixty-five  rounds,  twenty-five  of  whi<h 
are  loaded  with  bullets  suitable  for  killing  seals  or  any  larg(.'  game. 

1  ( annot  refrain  from  again  speaking  of  Bender's  despicable  conduct.  He  certainly  deserves  punish- 
ment for  the  disresijeclful  manner  which  he  has  assumed  towards  those  in  authority  during  the  last  few  days; 
but  what  can  be  done  here  !  We  cannot  resort  to  severe  measures  to  (  orrect  this  evil,  but  moral  obligations 
and  the  manly  spirit  which  all  are  supposed  to  possess  must  govern  these  things. 

Sunday,  February  17,  1884. —  Clear  weather;  light  westerly  winds;  temperatare  at  12.30  p.  m.,  —9.5 
1-23.1°  C.j;  at  3  ]i.  ill.,  -21.0  [  —  29.4-'  C.J. 

A'  'ord'ng  to  Israel's  calculations,  the  sun  must  have  been  lo'  above  the  horizon  at  noon.  It  was  not 
vi-:ili|i:  ii  us,  b  n  ever,  owing  to  the  dark  v/ater-clouds  wiiich  concealed  the  southern  horizon  at  the  point 
whii,  1;  would  have  ajipeared.  It  has  now  lieen  absent  from  us  for  115  days.  Some  intimate  that  it  is 
.liii  iiit,  n'ion  to  r'-main  in  the  futi<re  wlice  the  "gloricnis  orb"  may  be  seen  at  least  once  in  every  twenty- 
'oii'  hours 

A  \M(!e  laiiv  01  water  is  vis  .lie  from  the  hill,  and  the  ice  is  grinding  fearfully  in  Ihichanan  Strait.     The 
isuai  Sunday  .1.  irning  bi-cad  j ,u  Iding  w.is  jiartakcn  of  uitli  greater  relish  tlian  ever,  and  its  exct'lleiit  (juality 
ei'Ci   -.1  'n'lre  thin  liic  customaiy  praise,      in  rons('i|ucMii'  nt  the  limitid  (jiiantity  of  rum  on  hand,  no  more 
wil.     I  ',)■<•  c  \t  ;v    iss-i,  i\. 


TOE  LADY  FHANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


487 


Monday^  February  i8,  1884.— Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —15.5  [  —  26.4"  C.]; 
at  noon,  —5.3  [  —  20.7°  C.].  The  remaining  portion  of  our  corned  beef,  seal  meat,  mutton,  American  liacon. 
seal-skin,  peas,  string  beans,  carrots,  salmon,  St.  John's  bread,  bread  from  P'ort  Conger,  Mnglish  chocolate 
and  tea,  and  onion  powder  have  iiecn  issued ;  also,  all  our  salt  and  pepper,  cxcejit  a  small  (piantity,  which  is 
being  kept  for  Islison.  I  walked  down  the  coast  a  short  distance  in  (piest  of  game,  but  was  disappointeil  in 
finding  not  even  a  trace  of  animal  lift;.     The  short  walk  left  me  very  weak. 

Rice  climbed  to  the  summit  of  the  island  and  reported,  on  his  return,  that  Smith  Sound  was  an  open 
sea,  with  rafts  of  ice  di'fting  about  its  surface.  Long  went  to  ilie  iceberg,  and  then  traveled  about  four  miles 
farther  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  not  reaching,  however,  the  open  water.  'I'he  fact  gives  him  tiie  imiires- 
sion  that  no  open  water  exists,  notwithstanding  the  report  of  Rice.  If  the  rc|)ort  of  Rice  be  correct  (and 
I  believe  it  is),  1  think  that  we  need  no  longer  delude  ourselves  into  believing  that  we  will  escape  alive;  but, 
however  horrible, the  end,  all  are  prepared  to  face  it  like  men.  One,  however  (Bender),  would  latlKr  devour 
all  the  provisions  now,  and  die  at  once,  than  to  prolong  them  as  far  as  |)Gssible,  with  the  hope  of  ultimate 
re.scue.  This  person  has  done  very  little  this  winter  towards  the  regular  routine  of  duty,  and  he  has  made 
many  unreasonable  complaints,  which  have  gained  him  the  contempt  of  his  companions.  To-day  he  com- 
plained bitterly  that  his  bread  was  not  up  to  the  standard  weight,  and  although  he  admitted  that  no  par- 
tiality had  been  shown,  and  that  he  had  the  same  quantity  as  the  others,  and  that  no  injustice  had  been 
done,  still,  for  the  sake  of  grumbling,  he  '•■It  'hat  he  must  do  something.  Assuming  that  this  attack  was 
directed  towards  me,  I  at  once  re(iuested  tc  be  relieved  from  the  duty  of  issuing  provisions,  but  the  com- 
manding officer  would  not  listen  to  my  appeal. 

Tuesday,  February  19,  1884. — Cloudy  weather.  A  southerly  gale  was  in  progress  during  the  forenoon, 
but  at  2  o'clock  the  storm  had  subsided  and  the  sky  cleared;  temiierature  at  8  a.  m.,  +8.3  [— i3.2°C.]; 
at  9.30  a.  m.,  ■\-\i.o  |  —  n.i°  C] ;  at  1 1  a.  m.,  -I-22.0  [—5.6°  C] ;  and  at  2.30  p.  m  ,  —  i.o  [—  18.3°  C.]. 
At  5  p.  m.  the  sky  again  became  obscured  by  clouds  and  the  temperature  soon  rose  to  -f  3.5  |  —  15.8°  C.J. 
I  went  on  Cemetery  Ridge  at  2.30  p.  m.,  and  my  observations  from  that  point  confirmed  the  report  of  Rice 
yesterday  regarding  the  condition  of  Smith  Sound.  No  ice  of  any  description  was  visible  in  the  ojjcn  water, 
and  the  waves  and  white  ca[)s  were  rolling  in  against  the  edge  of  the  fast  ice  with  a  dismal  roar  which 
sounded  in  our  ears  like  the  knell  of  our  impending  doom.  The  water  has  encroached  close  to  Cape  Sabine 
and  extends  northward  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Louis  Napoleon,  and  eastward  toward  the  Greenland  coast 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  Thi-^  condition  of  affairs  is  a  particularly  bad  showing  for  us  with  our  stock  of 
provisions  so  greatly  reduced.  \i  hat  can  we  do  to  save  the  lives  of  our  noble  fellows?  Frederick  is  still 
working  on  the  foot-gear  of  the  party,  repairing  it  the  best  he  can. 

Wednesday,  February  20,  1884. — Cloudy  weather,  light  west  winds,  and  temperature  at  8  a.  m.  —11. 2 
[  —  24.0°  C.J.  At  5  p.  m.  it  had  risen  to  —2.5  [  —  19.2°  C.J.  On  the  whole  the  weather  to-day  has  been  very 
disagreeable,  and  not  at  all  cond:    've  to  cheerful  spirits. 

A  raven  was  observed  flyinj.  er  our  camp  this  morning.  Although  it  is  considered  a  bird  of  ill-omen, 
still  its  presence  cannot  affect  us  w.  We  have  suffered  and  endured  the  stern  reality  of  the  worst  pliases 
of  arctic  life  too  long  to  give  w  to  superstitious  fears  at  this  hour.  Long  and  Christiansen  attempted  to 
reach  the  open  water  this  morn.  ^,  but  they  were  turned  back  by  the  rising  wii.d,  which  was  found  impossi- 
ble to  face.  Bender  repaired  •  alcohol  can  and  one  of  our  stew  pots  in  a  most  artistic  manner,  considering 
the  materials  at  hand.  On  e  anation  I  find  that  we  have  about  21  gallons  of  alcohol  in  stock  at  this  time. 
Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  a  terrible  fate  awaits  us  within  a  few  weeks  unless  "  something  turns  up," 
we  are  making  all  sorts  of"  lans  for  the  future.  Rice  and  myself  contemplate  a  lecturing  tour  through  the 
Western  States,  combiniii,^  inifit  with  pleasure.  Others  have  similar  projects.  Nothing  can  repress  our 
expressions  of  hope  of  escape  from  this  bondage. 

Thursday,  February  21,  1S84. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  temperature  at  8  a.  m.,  — i  i.o  f  — 23.9"  (.!.] ; 
at  II  a.  m.,  —3.0  [—19.4"  ('.  ;  and  at  4.30  p.  in.,  — lo.o  [  —  23.3°  C.J.  After  a  brief  visit  to  the  hill  Rice 
reports  large  water-spaces  m  imith  Sound  northeast  of  Cape  Sabine.  This  is  bad  for  us,  but  lie  imparts  the 
cheering  information  that  tbc  ic:e  has  "bridge<l"  across  the  sound  farther  to  the  south,  and  thiic  means  of 
escape  may  yet  be  furnished  us.  The  "  mercurial  temperaments  "  instantly  rose  several  degrees  at  tliis 
announcement,  and  care  anv!  M^ffering  were  for  the  moment  forgotten.  Cold,  calm  weather  is  now  all  that 
is  recpiired  to  assure  our  ulti:  1  .  e  safety  by  cementing  fiimly  this  ncrtly- formed  bridge  of  drift-ice. 

I  i.ssued  the  list  of  the  fro/en  bread  to-da)' ;  yesterday  the  remaining  jiortion  of  the  I'jiglish  beef  was 
used.     The  large  sledge  has  been  shoveled  out  from  the  drift  which  hail  formed  over  it,  antl  extensive  re[)uirs 


1  ■!   • 


.1' 


■\4  n 


488 


TlIK  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXPEDITION. 


on  it  are  contemplated  within  the  week.  The  temperature  inside  is  now  ranging  from  -I-30  to  +40  [  —  1.1° 
C.  to  +4.4°  C.J,  and  the  consecjuent  melting  of  the  frost  from  the  roof  renders  our  condition  deplorable  in 
the  extreme.  The  sun  was  not  visil)le  to  us  to-day,  hut  its  reflection  was  seen  on  Hache  Island  for  the  first 
time  since  last  October.  Dr.  I'avy  is  entertaining  us  with  a  series  of  lectures  on  the  history  of  France  from 
the  eadiest  authentic  date  to  the  present  time. 

Friiltiy,  Fihniaty  21,  18S4. —  Fresh  westerly  winds  and  cloudy  weather  all  day;  light  snow  fell  during 
the  early  evening;  temperature  at  6  a.m.,  — ii.o  [  —  23.9°  C.J;  at  5.30  p.m.,  -  3.0  [—19.4°  C.J.  The 
barometer  lias  been  falling  with  alarming  rapidity  all  the  afternoon.  From  Cemetery  Ridge  I  viewed  the 
ice-fields  this  morning,  and  find  them  in  substantially  the  same  condition  as  that  reported  by  Rice  yesterday. 

The  advent  of  the  anniversary  of  the  birth  of  Washington  was  hailed  with  delight  by  all  because  of  the 
proposed  change  in  the  matter  of  meals.  In  honor  of  the  occasion  Lieutenant  Greely  directed  the  cooks  to 
<le|)art  from  the  usual  routine  and  prepare  a  hard-bread  pudding  for  breakfast,  in  which  twenty  ounces  of 
lard  were  useil  by  each  of  the  two  messes.  This  amount  of  fat  rendered  the  dish  both  rich  and  agreeable 
in  taste.  I'or  dinner  a  stew  of  Knglish  and  lime  juice  ]ieinniican  was  served,  which  was  pronounced  the  best 
we  had  ever  eaten.  I  issued  the  last  of  the  Proteus  tea  this  evening.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  sent  a  com- 
municatidii  to  the  commanding  officer  to-day  relative  to  a  change  in  the  scale  of  rations. 

SdtiinidY,  Fel'iuaiy  23,  1884. — This  is  a  stormy  and  disagreeable  day.  Winds  have  been  somewhat 
variable,  but  chiefly  from  the  south.  Light  f;ill  of  snow,  and  temperature  —6  [  —  21.1°  C.J.  The  monotony 
of  our  existence  seldom  varies  from  this  apathetic  state;  we  talk  of  food  and  long  for  news  from  our  home 
and  friends.  It  is  conceded  by  all  that  the  most  desirable  thing  that  we  could  have  just  now  would  be  a 
"s(|uare"  meal.  Every  one  is  very  enthusiastic  now  over  the  flavor  of  the  Wiltshire  bacon  found  in  the 
English  cache  at  Payer  Harbor.     To  be  sure  it  is  slightly  rancid,  but  this  appears  to  improve  its  (juality. 

Siniifay,  Ftbniary  24,  1884. — Brisk  westerly  winds  and  cloudy  weather;  temperature,  —16  1—26.7°  C.J 
About  three  inches  [76"""J  of  snow  fell  during  yesterday  afternoon  and  evening.  Owing  to  the  high  tem- 
perature the  annoying  dripjiing  of  moisture  from  the  roof  of  the  hut  still  continues.  The  usual  issue  of 
lemons  was  made  to  the  party  to-day,  but  no  rum  was  served  in  view  of  the  limited  ([uantity  on  hand.  It 
appeared  to  possess  almost  life-giving  qualities,  and  its  absence  is  greatly  dei)lored. 

Considerable  water  was  visible  in  the  sound  to-day.  and  the  bridge  whicli  had  formed  a  ^nw  days  ago 
from  shore  to  shore  has  entirely  disappeared  from  view  under  the  influences  of  the  lake  wind  storms.  This 
is  something  not  wholly  unexpected,  but  at  the  same  time  it  is  bitterly  disappointing,  it  bein.;  the  last  faint 
hope  of  escape  which  remained  with  us.  I  think,  however,  that  we  can  bear  pain  anrl  disajipoi'itmcnts  with 
a  greater  display  of  fortitude  and  resignation  th.an  ever  before  in  our  lives.  Ralston  is  suflfering  with  a  sore 
finger,  the  aftection  of  which  is  similar  in  character  to  the  fingers  of  Gardiner  or  Biederbick. 

In  a  letter  to  the  commanding  ofl'icer,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  offers  to  conduct  a  small  party  across  the 
sound  to  Littleton  Island  to  secure  relief  for  those  who  are  too  weak  to  attempt  the  march.  This  to  be 
done  in  the  event  of  Smith  Sound  freezing  over.  He  also  in  the  same  letter  objects  to  any  further  increase 
in  our  meat  ration  until  we  have  some  means  of  augmenting  our  supply.  For  the  information  of  the  party 
generally.  Lieutenant  Oreely  stated  that  he  would  start  lor  Littleton  Island  at  the  first  op|)ortuuity,  but 
would  never  divide  the  command. 

Mmiday,  February  25,  1884.— Light  snow  and  brisk  westerly  winds,  which  have  caused  heavy  drifting; 
temperature  at  7.30  a.  ni.,  —16.1  [  —  26.7°  C.J;  and  at  5  p.  m.,  — lo.i  [—23.3°  C.|.  Our  cooking  vessels 
having  beccjme  somewhat  dila])idated  were  skillfully  repaired  by  Bender.  Th<;  barometer  has  been  again 
falling  rapidly;  another  storm  is  brewing  most  likely.  The  last  of  the  Wiltshire  bacon  was  issued  this 
evening,  and  by  all  it  was  pronounced  the  best  they  had  ever  eaten. 

Tuesday,  February  26,  1884. — The  nioning  was  cloudy  and  gloomy,  but  towards  evening  the  sky 
cleared  beautifully  p.ntl  the  stars  appeared.  The  high  wind  subsided  at  3  a.  m.,  and  in  a  short  time  a  rise 
ofhalfaninch  fi2.7"""J  in  the  barometer  was  noted.  The  temperature  at  7.30  a.  m.  was  —  1 0.0  [  —  23.3°  C.J ; 
at  5.30  p.  m.,  — 16.0  [  —  26.7°  C.J,  and  at  8  p.  m.,  —19.7  [  —  28.7°  C.J.  About  four  inches  [about  ioo"""| 
of  snow  has  fallen  during  the  last  three  or  four  days.  The  water-spaces  in  Smith  .Sound  appear  to  have  been 
considerably  enlarged  since  yesterday.  On  examination  I  find  that  the  blubber  will  suflice  for  only  one 
more  regular  i.ssue,  and  that  will  be  a  very  small  one. 

Wednesday,  February  27,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —22.0  [  —  30.0°  C.J, 
and  at  5  p.  m.,  —27.2  [—32.9°  C.J.  I  passed  around  the  outei  extremity  of  the  ]:cninsula  this  morning  in 
search  of  game,  but  saw  ncMhing.     This  place  appears  to  be  entirely  deserted  by  all  animal  life  now.     At 


•^A 


TIIK  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


48U 


x\ 


/ 


noon  for  the  second  time  this  year  the  sun  was  seen  reflected  on  Bache  Island.  Dense  clouds  of  vapor  are 
seen  ascending  from  tht;  water-spaces  in  Smith  Sound  and  Kane  Sea.  Tlie  remaining  portion  of  l)hil)l)cr, 
onion  pickles,  dog-biscuit,  extract  of  beef,  and  extract  of  cotilee  were  issued  to-day.  Henry  celebrates  his 
birthday. 

Thursday,  February  28,  1884. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather.  The  temperature  at  7  a,  m.  was  —23.0 
|— 3o/i"CJ;  and  at  6  p.m.,  —27.1  [  — 32.8°  C.].  \'esterday  liiederbick  reported  Lieutenant  Lo(kwoo(l 
for  having  used  tobacco  despite  the  express  orders  of  Lieutenant  (Ireely  and  Dr.  i'avy.  He  (Lo<  kwood) 
emphatically  denied  having  used  any,  but  circumstances  elicit  the  truth  of  Hiedurbick's  statement.  It  is 
evident  that  Lockwood's  mind  is  so  weak  that  he  lia<l  forgotten  both  the  orders  and  the  lai  t  that  he  had 
used  tol)a<:co.     He  is  not  improving  at  all  in  health,  and  he  is  growing  somewhat  irritable  in  dis[)osition. 

Friday,  Ft'hruary  29,  1884. — t'lear  and  calm  weather;  temperature  at  6  a.  ni.,  —32.0  [  —  35.6"  (".];  at 
noon,  —30.0  [  —  34.,)."  C).  Tile  hori/on  has  been  so  hidden  by  dense  vapors  that  the  sun  could  not  pene- 
trate to  us  to-day.  There  has  been  a  dec ''led  improvement  in  the  spirits  of  the  men  during  the  last  week. 
'I'he)  api)ear  as  cheerful  as  if  they  were  enjoying  the  privileges  of  civilization,  rather  than  this  state  (if 
barbarism. 

Saturday,  March  i,  1884. — The  weather  has  been  clear,  but  the  fresh  westerly  winds  which  have  been 
prevailing  all  day  dri\e  the  snow  about  so  recklessly  that  we  do  not  care  to  venture  out;  temjierature, 
—  35  I  —37.2°  C.|.  The  barometer  is  again  falling.  1  had  the  natives  unlash  the  large  sledge,  preparatory 
to  the  repairs  which  will  be  made  on  it  next  Monday.  Yesterday  Hender  and  W'jiisler  placed  the  small 
sleilge  in  proper  condition  for  traveling.  The  former,  while  cleaning  the  shot  gun,  lost  one  of  the  importa'.t 
extra  parts  through  neglect.  The  gun,  however,  can  be  used  if  due  care  is  exercised  in  handling.  1  took 
an  inventory  of  the  meat  yesterday,  and  found  that  we  still  have  319  pounds  on  hand.  Lieutenant  dreely 
said  last  night  that  if  circumstances  were  favorable  he  would  increase  the  ration  on  Wednesday  next,  and 
start  for  Littleton  Island  on  the  following  Monday.  To  judge  from  his  appearance  and  conduct.  Lock- 
wood's  mind  must  be  ve!-.  \\:  'k.     Owing  to  the  severity  of  the  storm,  no  one  visited  the  hill  to-day. 

Long  tells  mc  the  t  iu  ■n:,;  little  episode,  which  he  considers  a  very  good  joke:  On  the  evening  of  the 
day  of  Henry's  birthday,  i.e  (Long)  neglected  to  add  the  allowance  of  tea  while  preparing  diuTier,  and  did 
not  discover  his  mistake  until  after  he  had  issued  to  each  person  a  cup  of  hot  water.  As  no  one  delected 
the  absence  of  the  tea,  Long  of  course  did  not  care  to  acknowledge  this  omission,  and  has  said  nothing 
about  the  matter  until  to  day,  when  he  related  it  to  me  in  confidence. 

Long  and  earnest  discussions  on  the  subject  of  food  are  now  being  made  with  greater  vigor  than 
ever  before.  Frederick  has  at  last  completed  the  boots,  and  he  is  now  working  on  the  slee])ing-stockings  of 
dog-skin  and  blanket.  Schneider  is  making  stearine  candles  for  use  on  the  journey  across  to  Littleton 
Island.  I  prepared  a  large  piece  of  tin,  on  which  will  be  marked  the  name,  age,  and  dale  of  the  death  of 
L'ross,  and  be  placed  Oier  his  grave.  We  would  like  to  use  a  portion  of  our  boat  to  mark  his  last  resting- 
place,  but  cannot  afford  to  do  so  owing  to  scarcity  of  fuel.  In  remembrance  of  our  dead  com])anion, 
Sergeant  Cross,  Lieutenant  Greely  has  named  the  little  lake  which  so  long  supplied  us  with  water.  Lake 
Cross. 

Sunday,  Match  2, 1884. — Clear  weather  and  brisk  west  winds;  temperature  at  7  a.m.,  —22.5  |  —30.3"  C. |, 
and  at  5  p.  m.,  —24.0  [  —  31.1°  (J.J.  The  blinding  drift  outside  prevents  open-air  exercise  to-tlay.  Of  our 
stock  of  lemons  only  two  remain.     They  will  be  kept  for  use  in  the  event  of  illness. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  appears  to  be  improving  in  strength  again,  but  his  mind  is  greatly  weakened. 
He  does  not  seem  to  possess  the  happy  faculty  of  bearing  up  against  adversity  like  some  of  the  otlu-rs — 
Llison,  for  instance — who  is  so  brave  and  patient  in  his  sufferings  that  his  conduct  elicits  tlie  admiration  and 
love  of  his  more  fortunate  companions. 

Monday,  March  3,  1884. — Weather  clear.  A  high  westerly  wind  has  been  blowing  all  day,  which 
amounted  at  times  to  a  moderate  gale;    temperature  at  7  a.  ni.,  —27.5  [  —  33.1°  C'.J;  at  2  p.  m.,  — 25.0 

|-3>-7°L".]- 

Using  my  latest  inventory  of  provisions  as  a  guide,  the  commanding  officer  has  made  careful  calcula- 
tions for  the  future,  and  says  that  on  the  present  ration  we  can  live  until  the  first  week  in  .Aiiril.  If  no 
ojiportunity  occurs  for  crossing  the  sound  to  Littleton  Islanil  before  the  i6th  instant,  all  hope  of  leaving  this 
place  must  be  abandoned;  and  if  we  do  not  suc(  ee<l  in  securing  game,  our  end  will  not  be  far  distant  on 
April  15.  On  my  recommendation,  the  commanding  officer  ap|)ointed  Frederick  a  sergeant  \\\  the  general 
service,  vice  Cross,  deceased.     This  is  a  fitting  recognition,  at  this  time,  for  his  excellent  services  this  winter. 


!. 


I    0\ 


'ii 


490 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITION. 


Biederbick  has  been  very  ill  with  cramps,  but  he  has  now  improved  to  such  an  extent  that  he  is  agairi 
enabled  to  perform  his  duties  as  nurse  and  hospital  steward.  )  brought  in  one  of  the  runners  of  the  large 
sledge,  and  W'hiskr  began  to  make  the  necessary  repairs.  Mender's  inventive  genius  appears  to  be  limitless; 
he  has  designed  and  constructed  several  candlesticks  of  an  entirely  new  an<l  original  pattern,  which  may  be 
used  for  a  double  purpose.  Schnieder  is  making  stearine  candles,  and  Frederick  is  still  working  on  the 
sleeping-stockings  intended  for  our  journev.  Ralston's  hand  ajipears  to  be  improving  under  the  doctor's 
careful  treatment.  Owing  to  the  heavy  drifting  of  the  snow  to  day,  we  could  not  get  a  satisfactory  view 
of  the  water-spaces  in  Smith  Sound.     Temperature  inside  the  hut,  +21.5  [  — s.8°C.]. 

Titist/dv,  A/(ir,/i  .4,  1S84. — Cloudy  ;  the  high  westerly  winds  of  yesterday  have  not  yet  abated,  and  snow 
has  been  falling  at  intervals  all  day  ;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —21.5  [  —  29.7°  C],  and  at  5  p.  ni.,  — 23.0 
\—:^o.6''  C.].  Nothing  has  been  done  on  the  sledge  to  day  in  conse(|uence  of  the  indisposition  of  Bender, 
\  is  to  assist  Wliisler  in  making  the  alterations  and  rei)airs.  Lieutenant  (Ireely  made  a  redu(-tion  in  our 
r  11  of  bread,  which  will  take  effect  to-morrow.  It  has  been  placed  at  eight  ounces  i)er  man  ]ier  diem. 
1  )e  will  increase  the  ration  of  meat  slightly  in  a  few  days.  The  last  of  the  blubber,  Hudson  Hay  pemmican, 
and  American  pennnican  were  issued  this  afternoon. 

U'n/iicsifiiy,  March  5,  i.SS^. — ("loudy  and  stormy  weather;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —22.0  [—30.0°  C] ; 
at  1 1  a.  m.,  —  23.0  [  —  30.6"  C.  | ;  and  at  2  p.  m.,  — 19.0  [  —  28.3°  C.  |.  Tiie  wind  is  blowing  with  persistent  and 
relentless  fury.  It  continues  with  the  same  terrific  velocity  as  yesterday,  and  confines  us  closely  to  the 
interior  of  our  dwelling.  I,  however,  crawled  out  for  a  visit  to  Cemetery  Ridge  to  look  at  the  sound.  The 
water  appeared  to  be  farther  away  than  before,  but  large  s])aces  still  exist,  as  the  somber  water  clouds  on  the 
horizon  will  testify.  CaDcs  Hawks  and  Louis  Napoleon,  with  the  "delectable  mountains"  of  Hayes  in  the 
distance  beyond  them,  were  distinctly  visii)le  to  the  eye. 

I  issued  the  last  of  the  corn,  soup,  tomatoes,  and  English  evaporated  po.atoes.  Bender  is  ill  again  with 
the  ohl  lung  troubles.  Bacon  stews,  with  a  large  jtroportion  of  rancid  tallow  added,  are  generally  liked.  The 
strong  rancid  flavor  is  something  that  a  delicate  stomach  would  at  once  rebel  against,  but  to  as  it  is  agreeable 
and  palatable;  it  affords  a  welcome  change  from  the  ordinary  routine  by  having  a  peculiar  flavor  which  is 
both  distinct  and  pronounced  in  its  nature. 

Thursday,  March  6,  18S4.— Clear  weather ;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —  20.8  [—29.3°  C],  and  at  5  p.  m., 
—  24.5  [—31.4°  C.J;  the  wind  subsided  at  noon,  but  in  the  evening  it  again  resumed  its  original  velocity, 
and  in  cors -fiucnce  Iieavy  drifting  was  experienced.  I  issued  the  last  can  of  lard  to  the  cooks  this  morning ; 
a  small  qu:n  ity  will  be  kept  to  use  on  Elison's  wounds. 

On  vibLJ  ig  the  hill  I  saw  the  open  water  extending  to  the  north  as  far  as  my  eye  could  reach.  On 
account  of  its  !iarrowness  the  lead  res(^nibled  a  sluice-way  ;  and  in  view  of  its  direct  course  to  the  southward 
I  am  of  the  opinion  that  it  is  in  the  axis  of  the  channel.  On  making  a  close  examination  of  the  left  runner 
of  the  large  sledge  I  finrl  two  knees  broken  and  one  other  greatly  weakened.  Frederick  has  completed  his 
work  on  the  sleeping-stockings  to  the  satisfaction  of  all. 

Friday,  March  7,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather  ;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —15.4  [  —  26.3°  C],  and 
at  2  p.m.,  —  18.0  [—27.8°  C.].  Rice  saw  the  sun  this  morning  for  the  first  time  since  last  October — nearly 
five  months  ago.  For  t;iis  glimpse  of  old  Sol's  rosy  face  he  had  to  pay  dearly,  it  being  necessary  to  climb 
the  rugged  sides  of  the  island  nearly  to  its  summit.  Long  ascended  Beebe  Point,  and,  after  taking  a  survey 
of  the  floe,  proceeded  to  the  northeast  to  the  open  water  which  was  about  one  mile  distant  from  the  point 
named.  F'ollowing  along  the  water's  edge  to  Brevoort  Island,  he  found  only  a  narrow  belt  of  ice  between 
the  water  and  the  base  of  the  island.  Ascending  to  the  summit  of  this  island,  he  looked  to  the  north,  east, 
and  south,  and  within  the  range  of  his  vision  nothing  but  open  water  was  observed.  A  few  pieces  only  of 
debris  ice  were  seen  drifting  along  with  the  current.  He  saw  two  bear  tracks,  one  large  and  one  small,  and 
the  fresh  trail  of  a  fox.  Kislingbury  went  out  to  the  large  berg  just  north  of  Camp  Clay,  and  accidentally 
breaking  through  the  ice  narrowly  escaped  being  drowned.  With  great  difficulty  he  returned  to  the  hut; 
his  clothing  having  frozen  so  stiffly  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  walk.  He  reports  the  existence  of  con- 
siderable water  about  the  berg  and  says  he  thinks  it  will  be  a  paradise  for  seals  in  a  few  weeks,  or  as  soon 
as  the  warmer  weather  approaches.  Rice  saw  a  !)race  of  ptarmigan  on  Cemetery  Ridge,  but  before  he  could 
secure  a  gun  they  had  disappeared  from  vie'v. 

Frederick  intended  to  begin  work  on  the  sleeping-bags  tiii.~  morning,  but  in  consequence  of  their  frozen 
state  his  operations  in  that  direction  have  been  susj, ended  indefinitely.  Bender  has  been  very  aggressive  in 
his  conduct  to-day;  he  llatly  contradicted  Lieutenant  ("ireciy.  ai.il  in  addition  made  a  very  extravagant  and 
reckless  use  of  profanity.     1  issuetl  the  remaining  portions  of  the  cloudberries  and  chocolate  extract. 


TIIH  LADY  FUANKLIN  MAY  HXI'KDITION. 


491 


Saturday,  March  8,  1884. — A  gale  rose  siKklrnly  tVoin  the  southeast  at  about  2  a.m.,  and  continued 
without  intermission  during  the  entire  day.  It  is  without  ilouht  the  severest  storm  that  has  yet  visited  us  here. 
Temperature  at  7  a  ni.,  — 3.0  1  —  19.4°  C],  and  at  i  p.  ni.,  —2.4  [  —  19.1°  C.J. 

The  remainder  of  our  rice  and  tomatoes  were  used  for  soup  this  morning.  l'"redcrick  transformed  a 
three-man  sleeping-bag  into  one  for  the  use  of  two  men.  The  poor  fellow  suffers  greatly  with  liis  sore  fingers 
while  working  in  the  low  tem[)erature  of  the  interior  of  the  hut,  but  he  is  indefatigable  and  never  complains. 
Whislcr  completed  the  repairs  and  alterations  needed  on  the  large  sledge,  and  it  is  now  ready  for  the 
Meld.  Hender  assisted  him  whenever  his  condition  woukl  |)crmit.  I  broke  up  another  barrel  for  fuel  to-day. 
Two  staves  suffice  to  prepare  a  meal  low,  bit  it  may  be  necessary  in  the  near  future  to  reduce  even  this 
meager  allowance.     Ralston's  fin^^er  is  improving  slowly. 

For  the  first  time  this  winter,  hair-cuttiiig  was  extensively  indulged  in.  The  style  of  the  cut  was  com- 
fortable but  scarcely  artistic.  Those  wishing  to  reduce  the  length  of  their  hair  crawled  on  their  hands  and 
knees  to  the  foot  of  their  respective  sleeping-bags  and  held  their  heads  in  the  passage,  while  the  tonsorial 
artist  passed  along  the  line  armed  with  a  huge  pair  of  shears,  and  about  ten  seconds  were  devoted  to  the 
removal  of  the  superfluous  burden  of  matted  hair  on  each  head.     Mine  was  over  six  inches  in  length. 

Siiiii/ay,  Afan/i  9,  1884. — The  full  force  of  the  gale  was  broken  a;  4.30  a.m.,  but  it  blew,  however, 
with  great  violence  at  intervals  all  day;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —  lo.o  [  —  23.3°  C.|,  and  at  3  p.  m.,  —84 
[  —  22.4°  C.J;  inside  house,  -i-26.0  \  —  T,.i°  C).  The  barometer,  which  has  been  falling  for  two  davs,  rose 
ra|iidly  this  morning.  Considerable  disagreeable  dripping  from  the  walls  and  roof  was  experienced  11. :« 
evening  during  the  preparation  of  the  evening  meal. 

Lieutenant  Creely  has  decided  to  send  Long  and  Christiansen  with  the  small  sledge  and  six  days'  pro- 
visions to  Alexandra  Harbor,  for  the  purpose  of  securing  any  game  that  may  inhabit  that  region.  I  had 
volunteered  with  others,  and  felt  confident  that  I  woidd  be  one  of  those  selected  for  this  journey.  Owing 
to  our  greatly  reduced  strength,  this  will  be  a  journey  of  extraordinary  danger  and  hardship. 

Mom/ay,  March  10,  1884. — The  gale  continued  all  last  night  with  relentless  fury,  but  at  about  noon  it 
abated  to  a  fresh  wind  and  blew  steadily  from  the  southeast;  temperature  at  7  a.m.,  —9.5  | — 23.1"  C.j, 
and  at  2  p.  m.,  — 6.5  [ — 21.4°  C).  On  visiting  the  hill  near  Cemetery  Ridge,  I  saw  a  narrow  lane  of  water 
just  east  of  Cape  Sabine,  with  ice  beyond,  which  apiieared  to  extend  to  the  fJreenland  coast,  which  was 
then  plainly  visible.  Rice  afterwards  ascended  considerably  higher,  and  reported  on  liis  return  that  the  ice 
ajipeared  continuous  from  this  to  the  Creenland  const,  but  that  it  was  badly  disintegrated.  .Should  we  be 
fortunate  enough  to  have  calm,  clod  weather  to  cement  this  ice,  our  chances  are  yet  favorable  to  reach  the 
opposite  side  of  Smith  Sound  this  month. 

Riederbick  has  been  detailed  as  cook  in  place  of  Long,  who  has  been  relieved  to  make  preparations  for 
his  trip  to  the  westward.  I  issued  to  him  bread  and  meat  at  the  rate  of  ten  ounces  per  day  of  the  former 
and  eight  ounces  per  day  of  the  latter.  He  also  takes  suthcicnt  alcohol  for  fuel  to  last  eir.ht  days;  and,  to 
be  used  in  the  event  of  illness  resulting  to  himself  or  Christiansen,  a  pint  of  rum  and  a  small  ([uantity  of 
aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia  will  be  included  in  his  outfit.  I  followed  along  the  coast  to  the  westward  for 
a  short  distance  to-day,  but  I  saw  nothing  of  the  game  of  which  I  was  in  (juest — not  even  a  trace  of  any 
living  thing.  We  are  now  burning  stearine  candles  to  light  our  hut,  all  our  stock  of  blubber  being  ex- 
hausted. More  dissatisfaction  occurred  in  our  mess  this  evening,  but  Lieutenant  Creely  promptly  settled 
the  matter  by  directing  the  cook  to  make  divisions  of  the  food  according  to  the  best  of  his  judgment,  and  to 
distribute  the  plates  himself  instead  of  having  a  second  party  pass  them. 

Tuesday,  March  11,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperatuu-  at  6  a.  tn.,  — 19.1  [  —  28.4°  C.];  at  5 
p.  m.,  —21.5  [  —  29.7°  C.].  This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  days  that  has  visited  us  in  this  ])lnce,  and  to  us 
it  ])robably  seems  brighter  than  any  other,  as  the  welcome  rays  of  the  sun  flooded  the  exterior  of  our  hut  for 
the  first  time.  To  facilitate  Long's  journey.  Rice  and  Ellis  hauled  his  sledge  to  the  west  end  of  Cocked 
Hat  Island.  They  say  the  traveling  is  good,  but  t!iat  their  excessive  veakness  would  not  permit  them  to  go 
far.  They  returned,  however,  in  fair  condition.  A  siiort  time  after  thr:  departure  of  the  sledge  Long  and 
Christiansen  started  on  their  hazardous  journey,  taking  with  them  the  kind-'st  wishes  of  their  less  strong  but 
grateful  companions,  whose  eyes  would  perhaps  never  again  s.-e  them  in  this  world.  A  raven  was  seen 
near  Corked  Hat  Island,  but  it  was  too  far  distant  to  enable  the  siedgers  to  get  a  shot  at  it. 

From  the  hill  I  saw  that  no  apparent  change  had  taken  place  in  the  ice-fields  since  yes  erday.  The 
flreenland  shore  was  still  visiljle,  and  very  little  vapor  could  be  dctec'ed  in  any  direction.  It  ...  but  natural 
that  I  should  feel  greatly  encouraged  with  the  prospect  before  us  now.     With  a  few  cold  nights,  and  with 


I 


!     : 


!     >  I 


I'- 


ll 


m 


41)2 


TMK  LADY  FKANKLIN   HAY  EXPEDITION. 


an  absence  of  liigh  winds,  we  may  expect  to  see  the  sound  close  sufficiently  to  admit  of  our  crossing  to  the 
opposite  side.  Without  surh  conditions — well,  we  must  wait  for  the  ship,  I  supjiose,  or — starve!  Our 
rations  will  last  till  about  the  middle  of  April,  and  after  that  we  have  no  hope  except  in  game.  The  (|ues- 
tion  we  are  now  anxiously  asking  one  another  is,  "Will  Long  do  something  for  us  by  securing  game  at 
Alexan<lra  Harbor?"  I  had  Jens  lash  together  the  large  sledge  this  morning,  so  that  everything  might  be 
in  readiness  for  an  immediate  start  at  the  |)ro|ier  moment.  I  saw  the  track  of  a  solitary  i)tarinigan  in  the 
snow  near  the  house  this  morning.  Our  evening  stews  have  been  reduced  from  two  to  one  kettle  |)cr  meal, 
in  oriler  to  save  fuel.  The  solid  portion  of  the  stews  is  the  same  as  formerly,  and  the  reduction  is  but  little 
missed,  and  parli<  ularly  as  the  second  kettle  of  stew  was  usually  little  more  than  salt  wattr  slightly  warmed. 
Our  evening  readings  continue,  and  the  days  are  sometimes  passed  in  noisy  discussions  on  the  important 
events  of  the  day  in  Germany,  and  in  preparing,  in  the  imagination,  elaborate  combinations  of  that  ever- 
popular  disli  known  a;;  "hash."  All  our  subjects  for  conversation  a|)pear  to  have  been  pretty  well  ventilated; 
and  for  hours  at  a  time,  even  during  the  day,  silence  will  reign  sujireme. 

Ilh/iiisi/tiy,  AfttJi/i  12,  1884. — Cloudy  weather  with  light  snow  occasionally  falling;  temperature  at  6 
a.  m.,  —25.1  [—31.7°  C.j;  at  i  p.  m.,  —  16.0  [  —  26.7°  C.J;  and  at  6  p.  m.,  —23.5  [—30.8°  C.J.  I  tramped 
through  the  soft  snow  in  the  direction  of  Cajie  Sabine  in  search  of  game,  but  had  not  quite  reached  the  cape 
when  I  was  compelled  to  turn  back  by  the  rising  of  a  terrific  storm,  which  came  from  the  southward.  Saw 
the  track  of  a  fox.  The  last  storm  has  broken  into  the  floe  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Sabine,  and  the  water 
has  encroached  to  the  vicinity  of  Beebe's  cache.  No  ice  was  observed  drifting  in  the  water,  which  was  as 
clear  and  tran(piil  as  in  the  month  of  .August.  I  followed  northward  along  the  margin  of  the  floe,  and 
returned  to  the  hut  by  the  way  of  the  large  berg.  About  this  berg  are  several  |)ools,  which  are  probably 
kept  open  by  the  action  of  the  tide.  Owing  to  the  absence  of  water-clouds  over  Smith  Sound,  I  do  not 
think  that  water-spaces  are  as  extensive  there  as  in  Kane  Sea.  Frederick  resumetl  work  on  the  sleeping- 
bags  this  morning.  f^Iison's  ration  of  bread  has  been  reduced  from  sixteen  to  twelve  ounces;  his  meat 
ration,  however,  was  increased  three  ounces. 

ThursJay,  Afanh  13,  1884. — Clear,  calm  weather;  temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  —23.0  f — 30.6°  C.J;  at  2 
p.  m.,  —21.1  [  —  29.5°  C.J;  and  at  6  p.  m.,  —25.8  [  —  32.1°  C.J. 

Rice  observed  ptarmigan  tracks  near  the  hut  this  morning,  and  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  myself, 
thinking  that  they  might  still  be  near  the  camp,  went  out  in  search  of  them.  A  tramp  of  over  two  hours' 
duration  revealed  nothing  of  their  whereabouts,  though  they  had  visited  every  spot  in  our  vicinity  that  pro- 
duced vegetation.  The  channel  looks  more  favorable  now  than  ever  before.  The  dark  water-clouds  have 
entirely  disappeared,  and  light,  fleecy  vapors  have  taken  their  ])lace.  It  is  my  opinion  that  the  narrowest 
part  of  the  sound  will  "  choke  "  with  the  drifting  masses  of  ice,  and  if  the  cold,  calm  weather  continues,  this 
l)ack  will  solidify  and  thus  furnish  us  with  a  means  of  escape.  'I'he  barometer  has  been  vacillating  greatly  of 
late,  but  it  is  now  tpiite  steady.  Long  and  Christiansen  are  having  excellent  weather  for  their  hunting  expe- 
dition, I  have  little  conlidence  in  their  ability  to  secure  large  game  in  that  region  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
but  will  depend  mainly  for  existence  on  the  seals,  which  will  probably  make  their  appearance  in  April,  or  on 
the  arrival  of  a  relief  party  from  Littleton  Island,  if  the  conditions  of  traveling  will  permit  them  to  cross  over. 
Friday^  March  14,  1884. —  Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —27.2  [  —  32.9°  C.J,  and  at 
7  p.  m.,  —30.5  [—34.7°  C.J.     Owing  to  the  presence  of  the  sun  the  day  has  been  bright  and  beautiful. 

Long  and  Christiansen  returned  at  7  o'clock  last  evening  very  much  exhausted  and  (piite  badly  frost- 
bitten in  several  jilaces.  They  had  been  unable  to  get  into  their  sleeping-bag  together,  owing  to  its  frozen  and 
cast-iron  like  state.  Cape  Viele  had  been  reached  on  the  evening  of  their  first  day,  and  the  next  morning 
they  rounded  the  cajjc  and  entered  Alexandra  Harbor.  Finding  no  traces  of  game  in  this  place,  they  crossed 
near  the  he  .1  of  the  deep  bay  of  which  Alexandra  Harbor  is  an  inlet,  reaching  Mount  Carey,  which  they 
ascended  for  the  purpose  of  observing  the  surrounding  country.  They  had  an  uninterrupted  view  of  about 
JO  miles  on  the  north  side  and  20  miles  on  the  south  side  of  Hayes  Sound  beyond  the  most  distant  point 
seen  by  the  Knglish  Expedition  of  i875-'76.  Three  capes,  heretofore  unknown  to  explorers,  were  discov- 
ered by  them  on  the  north  side  of  the  sound,  the  most  westerly  one  of  which  was  named  by  Lieutenant 
Oreely,  in  honor  of  its  discoverer,  "Cape  Long."  The  sound  apjiears  to  be  the  narrowest  opposite  VVey- 
precht  Island  and  the  widest  about  15  miles  farther  to  the  westward.  After  an  absence  of  over  fourteen 
hours  they  returned  to  Cape  Viele,  where  their  sledge  and  equipment  had  been  left,  to  obtain  rest  and  recu- 
peration, which  their  prolonged  exertions  and  ex[)osure  made  necessary.  While  here  Long  w;is  taken  sud- 
denly ill,  and  for  a  brief  period  he  despaired  of  ever  again  meeting  his  companions  who  were  so  anxiously 


TH1<:  LADY  1-UANKMN   ISAY  KXI'KDITION. 


493 


awaitinj,'  liis  return.  Only  one  at  a  time  was  enabled  to  occupy  the  frozen  sleepinj;-l)a^',  and  then  it  was 
necessary  to  lie  in  a  cramped  |)()sitiun.  l-onfj  crawled  into  it,  and  the  faithful  native  walked  \\\t  and  down 
through  the  deep  snow  until  his  comi)ani<)n  shoulil  feel  well  enouj^h  to  resume  the  march.  In  <  un^cipient  e 
of  the  low  temperature,  l.onj^  knew  that  he  could  nut  lonj;  survive  unless  something  was  sjieedily  dune,  so 
taking  a  few  drops  of  the  ammonia  in  a  liheral  allowance  of  hot  rum,  he  soon  felt  gready  relieved,  antl  at 
once  started  homeward.  They  reached  us  after  having  tramped  for  fourteen  hours  from  Cape  Vit;le.  No 
game  was  seen,  and  only  one  tra<  k,  and  that  a  fox,  was  met  with.  This  is  a  bitter  disapixintment  to  us,  as 
we  had  reason  to  expect  small  game  at  least  from  Alexandra  Harbor,  wliic  h  the  I'.nglish  reports  say  was 
teeming  with  game.  Lieutenant  (1  .ely  is  going  to  send  out  another  party  in  a  few  days,  which  will  consist 
of  Long  and  myself,  I  having  volunteered  for  this  duty  several  weeks  ago.  We  will  probably  be  absent  for 
eight  days,  and  may  cross  liuchanan  Straits  to  Uache  Island,  if  there  is  suflicient  inihu;emenl  to  do  so. 

I'',lison  says  the  spell  is  broken  and  that  we  may  ex|)ect  to  get  i)lenty  of  game  in  the  future.  I  shot 
three  ptarmigan  this  morning;  hOncc  his  remark.  No  portion  of  these  biids  except  the  feathers  was  wasted. 
Lverything  else — feet,  heads,  legs,  anil  intestines — was  thrown  into  our  stews  and  devoured  without  the 
slightest  feeling  of  repugnance. 

Rice  went  across  the  islands  to  selerl  a  route  to  Rosse  Hay.  He  contemplates  a  journey  to  liainl  Inlet 
in  a  few  days  to  look  for  the  meat  abandoned  there  last  fall,  and  by  going  directly  across  the  island  the  dis 
tance  will  be  greatly  shortened.  He  returned  at  7  p.  m.  and  rejiorted  the  route  practicable,  doming  bai  k 
by  the  way  of  Cape  Sabine  enabled  him  to  obtain  a  good  observation  of  the  condition  of  the  souiul.  He 
says  that  the  ice  is  nearly  closed  on  this  side,  but  thinks  that  a  considerable  space  of  open  water  exists  on 
the  (ireenland  shore.     He  saw  a  raven. 

Hiederbick  was  promoted  by  Lieutenant  Greely  to  hospital  steward  to-day.  I  lis  appointment,  of  course, 
is  subject  to  the  approval  of  the  Secretary  of  War  on  our  return.  (Jn  recommendation  of  l)r.  I'avy,  Kli.son's 
ration  of  bread  has  been  increased  to  sixteen  ounces  and  his  ration  of  meat  to  six  ounces. 

Salnniity,  Mtinh  15,  1884. — Clear,  calm  weather;  temperature  at  6  a.  ni.,  —30.8  [  —34.9°  C.| ;  at  1 1  a. 
m.,  — 21.0  [  —  29.4°  C.j,  anil  at  5  p.  m.,  —31.3  [  —  35.2°  <-'  |.  1  hunted  along  the  coast  in  the  direction  of 
Cocked  Hat  Island,  but  saw  nothing  except  a  few  ptarmigan  tracks  made  several  days  ago — probably  by 
the  birds  which  I  shot  yesterday.  'I'hose  birds,  by  the  way,  netted  us  three  pounds  and  ten  ounces. 
Lieutenant  Kislingbury  went  out  to  the  open  water  towards  the  northeast,  and  saw  a  bear  track  which  he 
judged  to  have  been  made  four  days  ago,  and  he  also  saw  five  dovekies  sporting  in  the  water.  This  is 
cheering  news  to  us,  and  the  future  certainly  looks  much  brighter  and  more  hopeful  than  it  has  for  a  long 
time. 

The  bread  ration  has  been  reduced  to  fifty  ounces  per  week  to  each  man,  and  will  take  effect  on  Monday 
morning.  It  may  yet  be  necessary  to  send  a  party  to  Cape  I  lawks  to  secure  the  small  (juantity  of  bread  that 
was  left  by  us  there;  but  I  fear  that  the  foxes  have  eaten  it  all.  Moldy  and  rotten  as  it  was,  if  we  had  it 
now  it  would  make  a  welcome  addition  to  our  scanty  store  and  would  be  eaten  with  avidity  to  prolong  our 
lives.  We  can  live  on  i  ur  present  ration  little  more  than  a  month  longer.  The  sound  looks  still  more  favot 
able  to-day  than  it  did  yesterday  ;  the  pools  near  tlape  Sabine  are  evidently  closed,  but  a  large  water-sjiace 
is  observed  in  Kane  Sea.  A  very  enjoyable  and  palatable  stew  served  for  breakfast  was  made  of  tallow,  salt 
water,  and  crumbs  of  bread. 

Sunday,  Manh  16,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature  at  6  a.m.,  —34-7  [ — 37.i°C.|,  and 
at  5  p.m.,  —31.7  |— 35.4°C.J.  In  the  sun  it  rose  to  —19.0  [  — 28.3''C.|.  The  sound  looks  more  favorable 
than  ever  for  crossing  to  Littleton  Island.  If  it  continues  to  improve  during  the  coming  week  as  it  has 
during  the  week  just  passed,  I  think  escape  by  this  means  is  most  probable.  Long  and  Christiansen  went 
out  to  the  open  water  this  morning,  taking  with  them  the  kayak.  They  returned  with  four  dovekies  and 
report  having  seen  and  fired  at  a  small  seal.  The  dovekies  are  small  but  i)lump,  and  are  dressed  in  their 
winter  suits — white  plumage  with  black  tips.  In  addition  to  the  birds  killed,  the  hunters  say  that  several 
others  were  seen,  but,  owing  to  their  timidity,  all  efforts  to  secure  them  failed. 

Matters  now  appear  to  be  in  a  favorable  state  for  our  ultimate  relief  and  safe  return  to  our  homes.  We 
hope  soon  to  leave  behind  us  these  desolate  and  inhospitable  regions  and  find  a  haven  of  rest  under  more 
congenial  skies.  If  the  game  of  the  country  tails  us,  which  1  think  is  inijirobable,  we  still  have  hope  of 
assistance  from  Lieutenant  Garlington  and  party,  who  I  think  must  be  at  Littleton  Island  or  in  that  vicinity. 
Hut  if  we  receive  no  assistance  from  this  source,  we  can  retreat  across  the  sound,  if  it  closes,  when  on  our 
last  legs.     If  the  meat  abandoned  in  Baird  Inlet  last  autumn  can  be  obtained,  we  can  survive  until  about 


I 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STMIT 

WIUTIR,N.Y.  145M 

(716)173-4503 


494 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


M 


May  I.  Long's  success  this  morning  in  hunting  has  had  an  excellent  effect  on  the  si)irils  of  the  men.  During 
the  last  few  days  very  few  subjects  have  been  under  discussion  excei)t  they  bore  a  direct  relation  to  foot!, 
or  would  suggest  it  in  some  way.  No  other  subject  appears  to  possess  half  the  attraction  for  our  poor 
hungry  fellows  that  this  one  does. 

Lieutenant  Greely  contemplates  sending  Jens  and  mysell  to  Rice's  Straits  in  a  few  days  to  look  for 
seals  and  other  game.  I  volunteered  also  to  go  down  to  Payer  Harbor  in  (juest  of  game,  and  to  observe 
the  chances  for  future  operations  there.  I  proposed  to  Lieutenant  Greely  this  morning  that  we  make  an 
attempt  to  catch  shrimps  to  eke  out  the  slender  stock  of  supplies  in  our  larder.  If  possible,  I  will  prepare 
a  net  for  that  purpose  to  morrow  and  give  the  matter  further  thought.  I  exposed  a  tempting  bait  on  the 
rocks  in  the  vickiity  of  our  hut  as  an  inducement  for  the  raven  to  visit  us  that  we  may  effect  his  capture. 
While  on  the  hill  this  morning  to  observe  the  condition  of  the  sound  the  sun  burst  forth  in  all  his  radiant 
splendor,  and  for  a  long  time  I  lingered  among  the  rocks  to  enjoy  the  warmth  and  comfort  which  it  brought. 
To  use  the  apt  expression  of  Dr.  Kane,  "  It  was  like  bathing  in  perfumed  water." 

Monday,  March  17,  1884. — Cloudy  weather;  temperature  6  a.  m.,  —25.0  [—31.7°  C],  and  at  5  p.  m., 
—  23.5  [—30  8°  C.J.  The  barometer  is  falling  slowly.  There  are  indications  that  a  severe  storm  is  now  in 
progress  in  the  Sound,  and  the  newly-formed  ice  will  probably  he  entirely  broken  under  its  influence,  thus 
tlestroying  our  last  chance  of  escape  to  Littleton  Island.  The  cold  weather  during  the  past  week  had 
aroused  our  most  sanguine  expectations  of  escape  from  this  place,  and  now  to  realise  the  tlowafall  of  our 
bright  anticipations  is  hard  indeed  to  bear.  Jens  shot  a  ptarmigan  this  morning  which  weighed  twenty 
ounces.    The  dovekies  killed  yesterday  average  in  weight  about  one  pound  each. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  Jens  visited  the  open  water  this  morning,  but  returned  without  having  killed 
anything.  They,  however,  saw  a  seal,  but  it  was  too  far  distant  to  admit  of  being  shot.  I  designed  and 
made  an  a])paratus  with  which  to  catch  shrimps.  Rice,  having  volunteered  to  act  in  the  capacity  of  shrimper, 
will  take  the  contrivance  to  Beebe  I'oint  to  give  it  a  thorough  test.  I  spent  some  time  on  th.-  large  sledge 
this  morning  to  prepare  it  for  immediate  use  when  required.     New  drag-ropes  were  also  supplied  to  it. 

In  overhauling  the  stores  in  the  commissary  room  I  found  ten  ounces  of  English  chocolate  which  had 
been  overlooked  in  the  darkness  and  confusion  of  last  winter.  It  will  not  be  i.ssued  to  the  general  mess, 
but  by  tlie  direction  of  Lieutenant  Greely  it  has  been  given  to  one  of  the  cooks  to  i.ssue  to  Ellison  from  time 
to  time  as  he  may  desire.  His  ration  is  now  more  than  double  that  of  the  others,  but  it  is  the  wish  of  all  that 
it  should  be  so,  for  none  can  forget  the  devotion  which  the  brave  fellow  has  showed  us  in  the  past.  He 
maintains  a  wonderful  control  over  his  feelings  and  is  ever  cheerful.  The  ration  of  the  i)arty  is  now  eleven 
to  twelve  ounces  each  per  day — no  more.  A  large  pool  of  water  has  opened  near  the  berg,  and  I  would 
not  be  suri-Tised  if  we  were  shooting  seals  there  in  a  few  days  if  the  weather  should  prove  agreeable.  15risk 
wind,  causing  considerable  drift,  began  at  i  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  March  18,  1884. — Cloudy  and  stormy  weather.  The  snow  is  being  drifted  in  a  blinding  sheet 
by  a  high  northeast  wind.  The  high,  rocky  point  between  our  house  and  the  sea  protects  us  somewhat  from 
the  full  fury  of  the  blast.  Temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  —16.0  [  — 26.7°C.j;  at  11  a.  m.,  —7.0  [—  2i.7°C.]; 
and  at  2  p.  m.,  —15.0  [  —  26.1°  C.].  The  barometer  has  been  nearly  stationary  all  day  notwithstanding  the 
tumult  of  the  elements.  I  went  on  the  hill  during  the  forenoon  and  saw  that  a  terrific  storm  was  in  progress 
in  the  sound,  and  that  the  ice  was  suffering  greatly  in  consequence.  Lcng  did  not  make  his  customary  trip 
to  the  open  water  to-day  on  account  of  the  severity  of  the  weather.  The  raven  was  observed  to  be  inves- 
tigating the  fox-skin  which  I  had  placed  on  one  of  the  rocks  near  the  house  yesterday,  but  being  very  wary 
he  escaped  the  load  of  shot  intended  for  him. 

Wednesday,  March  19,  1884. — Cloudy,  stormy,  and  generally  disagreeable  weather.  A  brisk  westerly 
wind,  which  at  times  came  in  gusts,  hurled  the  snow  in  every  direction  with  great  violence,  and  kept  us 
confined  closely  to  the  house.  Temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  — 16.3  [--26.8°  C] ;  at  1 1  a.  m.,  —9.8  [—23.2°  C] ; 
and  at  5  p.  m.,  — 12.0  [ — 24.4°  C.]. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  appears  to  be  improving  in  health  and  strength.  If  our  daily  ration  was  only 
half  the  amount  that  a  man  would  ordinarily  consume  in  these  regions,  how  well  we  could  live  through  the 
winter  to  summer  and — relief  In  consequence  t)f  the  rising  barometer  we  entertain  strong  hopes  of  an 
improvement  in  the  weather  to-morrow.  This  storm  has  broken  a  large  space  about  "  Expectation  Berg," 
from  which  we  may  hope  to  secure  many  seals  during  the  warm  weather  which  will  follow  soon.  It  also 
has  dam.aged  the  floe  greatly  in  the  vicinity  of  Beebe  Point,  where  a  great  sea  is  now  rolling.  A  few  days 
ago  this  same  place  was  covered  with  a  vast  ice-field. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


d95 


I  find  that  the  tallow  contained  in  the  English  bacon  cans  is  in  excess  of  the  forty  pounds  of  bacon  as 
marked  on  the  outside  of  the  cans.  The  recent  reduction  in  our  rations  has  once  more  revived  the  old  topic 
of  conversation — food — and  many  hours  are  passed  quite  pleasantly  in  telling  one  another  of  the  bills  of  fare 
that  we  would  order  if  we  were  in  a  civilized  land.  It  is  pitiful,  sad,  and  aggravating  to  hear  these  things, 
but  when  the  relentless  wolf,  hunger,  is  gnawing  in  this  terrible  manner  at  our  very  life,  what  are  we  to  do 
or  say  ?  Try  as  hard  as  we  may  to  think  of  other  things — to  concentrate  our  minds  on  subjects  more 
elevating  and  instructive — we  cannot  do  it  for  five  minutes  at  one  time  without  reverting  again  to  that  old 
familiar  theme — food. 

Thursday,  March  20,  1884. — Clear  weather;  temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  —20.5  [  —  29.2°  C.];  at  noon, 
—  14.0  [—25.6°  C.];  and  at  5  p.  m  ,  —19.0  [  —  28.3°  C.].  The  barometer  is  about  stationary.  Fresh  west 
erly  winds  have  caused  much  drifting  to-day  and  rendered  outside  work  very  trying  and  disagreeable.  Not- 
withstanding the  wind,  Long  went  out  to  the  open  water  in  search  of  game.  He  saw  two  dovekies,  neither 
of  which  was  secured.  Rice  went  to  Beebe  Point  to  test  the  shrimp  net  or  trap  which  I  made  for  him  a 
few  days  ago.  He  found  a  very  good  place  to  lower  the  net  into  the  water  not  far  this  side  of  the  point. 
At  low  tide  quite  a  large  opening  is  formed  between  the  floe  and  the  ice-foot,  thus  enabling  the  contrivance 
to  be  lowered  without  cutting  a  hole.  He  succeeded  in  catching  a'^out  two  ounces  of  the  minute  crusta- 
ceans, and  says  that,  with  slight  modifications  of  the  trap,  this  new  industry  can  be  prosecuted  very  success- 
fully. This  opens  to  us  another  avenue  of  escape — another  chance  for  life.  How  eagerly  we  grasp  at  even 
the  faintest  hope  of  ultimate  safety,  and  how  anxious  are  we  to  leave  this  horrible  place  Where  we  have  suf- 
fered so  much,  met  with  so  many  disappointments,  and  even  now  are  standing  face  to  face  with  Death ! 

An  owl  and  a  raven  were  seen  to-day ;  the  former  was  taking  flight  towards  the  north,  and  the  latter 
was  scouting  about  the  camp  for  scraps,  of  which  there  are  none.  Christiansen  is  not  feeling  well;  his  late 
trip  to  the  westward  with  Long  has  doubtless  exhausted  all  his  energies,  and  despondency  seems  to  have 
overcome  his  usually  happy  disposition.  Linn  also  is  evidently  losing  much  of  his  vigor  of  mind.  Since 
the  terrible  exposure  which  he  experienced  last  autumn,  when  on  the  Cape  Isabella  trip,  he  has  not  been 
himself,  and  probably  never  will  again  fully  recover  his  faculties.  The  doctor  frequently  remarks  the  great 
change  that  hits  taken  place  in  him.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  was  unfortunate  enough  to  pierce  one  of  his 
fingers  with  a  needle  a  few  days  ago.  The  injured  member  is  now  greatly  swollen  and  inflamed,  and  Kis- 
lingbury suffers  severely.  At  my  suggestion  Lieutenant  Greely  has  directed  that  in  the  future  the  kayak 
will  be  conveyed  to  the  open  water  each  morning  by  some  member  of  the  party  not  otherwise  employetl, 
and  thus  lighten  the  labors  of  the  hunters,  who  are  doing  all  in  their  power  to  procure  for  us  the  means 
of  sustaining  and  prolonging  life.     Long,  Christiansen,  and  Jens  are  doing  all  the  hunting  at  present. 

Friday,  March  21,  1884. — The  weather  continues  cloudy,  and  the  fresh  we.sterty  wind  of  yesterday, 
which  caused  so  much  disagreeable  drift,  has  not  yet  abated ;  temjierature  at  6  a.  m.,  —19.8  [  —  28.8°  C] ; 
at  noon,  —13.0  [  —  25.0°  C  ];  and  at  5  p.  m.,  —22.2  [—30.1°  C.].  The  barometer  has  again  taken  a  down- 
ward tendency,  and  we  may  expect  a  storm  at  any  time.  I  made  a  light  dip-net  for  Rice's  use  in  shrimp- 
ing; and  I  also  devised  a  peculiar  hook  with  which  we  will  attempt  to  catch  some  fish  in  a  few  days. 
Gardiner  ha.s  invented  and  manufactured  an  apparatus  for  capturing  floating  sea-weed.  We  contemplate 
using  this  vegetation  largely  as  an  article  of^food  if  it  can  be  easily  secured. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury  fainted  this  evening  while  having  his  finger  lanced  by  the  doctor.  He  was 
soon  restored,  however,  but  for  some  time  afterwards  he  felt  very  weak  and  sick.  Ut>th  the  natives  are  very 
much  swollen  about  the  face  and  limbs.  Dr.  Pavy  thinks  the  difliculty  is  similar  to  that  which  I  experi- 
enced a  few  weeks  ago  from  over-exertion. 

Saturday,  March  22,  1884. — The  weather  continues  cloudy,  and  fresh  westerly  winds  prevail;  tempera- 
ture at  6  a.  m.,  —14.0  [—25.6°  C.J,  and  at  6  p.  m.,  —12.0  [  —  24.4°  C.j.  During  the  afternoon  the  wind 
changed  direction  to  the  southeast  and  light  snow  began  falling.  Long  and  Jens  went  out  to  where  the 
open  water  had  existed  a  few  days  ago  and  found  it  entirely  closed  by  debris  ice,  which,  having  drifted 
down  from  the  north,  had  lodged  at  this  point  and  was  now  thoroughly  cemented  together.  For  three 
miles  beyond  the  point  which  they  had  previously  visited  while  hunting  no  signs  of  open  water  appeared. 
In  returning  to  camp  they  passed  the  large  berg  about  which  the  pools  had  formed,  but  saw  nothing  of  the 
seals  which  we  expected  would  make  their  a|)pearance  there  at  an  early  date. 

Rice  was  quite  successful  in  his  shrimp  fishing  to-day;  he  secured  about  six  ounces  and  expects  to  get 
at  least  a  quart  as  the  result  of  to-morrow's  fishing.     The  long  pole  with  hooks,  prepared  by  Gardiner  yes- 


496 


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terday  to  fish  out  sea  vegetation,  is  not  just  the  thing  reciuired,  but  with  slight  alterations  Rice  thinks  it  can 
be  adapted  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  intended.  He  reports  that  it  is  necessary  to  do  the  fishing  at 
low  tide,  as  the  crack  through  which  the  nets  are  lowered  closes  at  high  tide.  The  maximum  depth  of  water 
here  is  about  thirty  feet  [9'"],  and  while  the  shrimps  are  collecting  on  the  baits  the  nets  rest  quietly  on  the 
bottom.  These  little  animals  are  only  about  the  s'«e  of  a  half-grown  fly.  Near  the  jjlace  where  his  nets 
rest  on  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  is  a  long  white  object  resembling  the  rib  of  a  whale,  but  Rice  thinks  it  possi- 
ble that  it  may  be  the  limb  of  a  petrified  tree. 

If  the  weather  is  favorable  to  morrow  I  am  going  to  visit  Rosse  Bay  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  seals. 
Lieutenant  Greely  said  this  evening  tiiat  if  no  g  une  were  secured  by  the  first  week  in  April  he  would  re- 
duce our  rations  to  a  basis  that  would  enable  us  to  exist  until  May  i.  I  made  two  nets  fur  Rice  this 
evening,  using  foxskins  in  both  for  bait.  The  dovekie  legs  are  also  excellent  bait,  and  will  be  reserved  for 
this  purpose  in  the  future. 

Su/ii/iiy,  March  23,  1884. — Clear  weather,  with  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  6  a.m.,  —25.5 
[—31.9°  C.J,  and  at  6  p.  m.,  —22.8°  [  —  30.4°  C.J.  The  barometer  fell  slightly  at  an  early  hour  this  mcrning, 
but  during  the  rest  of  the  day  it  remained  stationary.  The  indefatigable  worker.  Rice,  went  down  to  his 
shrimp  nets  at  3  a.  m.,  but  he  did  not  succeed  in  getting  many  in  consecjuence  of  a  broken  net  guy,  which 
caused  the  trap  to  upset,  thus  spilling  the  contents.  At  dinner  time  he  went  down  again,  this  time  catching 
about  four  pounds.     We  could  not  refrain  from  giving  the  dear  fellow  a  hearty  cheer  after  this  achievement. 

As  contemplated  yesterday,  I  crosseil  the  island  to  Rosse  Bay,  making  the  ascent  on  this  side  by  the 
glacier,  and  descending  to  the  bay  on  the  other  by  a  deep  ravine.  I  examined  carefully  the  face  of  the 
glacier  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  but  could  find  no  evidence  of  its  having  kept  the  ice  broken  during  the 
winter.  I  had  expected  to  find  pools  of  water  near  its  front,  through  which  the  seals  could  crawl  to  the 
floe  .above.  The  ice,  of  course,  had  been  broken  by  the  steady  advance  of  the  glacier,  but  the  pools  of 
water  so  formed  must  have  closed  immediately.  On  my  return  to  the  island  I  visited  all  the  bergs  and 
places  at  which  I  thought  it  likely  a  seal  or  walrus  would  appear,  but  nothing  of  that  nature  was  met 
with.  All  the  northern  half  of  the  bay  is  a  level  plain  of  new  ice  with  an  occasional  small  berg,  while  the 
southern  side  is  thickly  studded  with  large  icel)ergs  and  huge  masses  of  paleocrystic  ice.  While  on  this  floe 
a  high  wind  prevailed,  which  eddied  about  me  with  great  violence.  In  following  the  tortuous  windings  of 
the  ravine  to  the  summit  of  the  island,  I  escaped  the  full  force  of  the  storm,  but  in  crossing  the  diviile,  I 
was  enveloped  in  a  blinding  drift,  and  could  .scarcely  find  my  way.  At  one  time  I  thought  of  surrendering, 
so  dense  was  the  cloud,  and  so  weak  had  I  become  from  the  unusual  exertion,  but  I  made  another  eftbrt, 
and  in  a  short  time  was  walking  down  the  slope  on  the  other  side.  In  this  struggle  my  nose,  face,  and 
fingers  were  quite  badly  frost-bitten.     I  saw  the  tracks  of  a  fox  and  ptarmigan  in  Rosse  Bay. 

Long  went  out  to  the  open  water,  but  he  saw  nhthing  but  one  dovekie.  Bender  has  covered  himself 
with  glory  by  making  a  large  fish- hook  which  possesses  all  the  advantages  of  any  that  can  be  bought.  The 
use  of  wood  for  fuel  has  been  discontinued,  and  all  our  cooking  for  the  present  will  be  done  with  alcohol. 

Monday,  March  24,  1884. — Weather  clear;  light  westerly  wind.  Temperature  at  5  a.  m.,  —23.0 
[—30.6°  C.J,  and  at  2  p.  m.,  —21.0  [—29.4°  C.J.  Exposed  in  the  sun  at  1 1  a.  m.  the  thermometer  registered 
—6.0  [  —  21.1°  C.J.  Rice  made  three  trips  to  the  shrimping  grounds  to-day,  which  resulted  in  adding  about 
seven  pounds  of  shrimps  to  our  supplies.  Nothing  could  be  more  gratifying  to  us  than  this  success  in  fishing, 
which  gives  us  a  firm  grasp  on  the  future. 

A  terrible  scene  occurred  in  our  wretched  hut  during  the  morning.  While  preparing  breakfast  (tea) 
the  cooks  had  forgotten  to  remove  the  bundle  of  rags  from  the  ventilators  in  the  roof,  and  the  fumes  thrown 
olTby  the  alcohol  lamps,  being  confined  to  the  small  breathing  space,  soon  produced  asphyxia.  Biederbick, 
one  of  the  cooks,  was  the  first  to  succumb  to  its  effects,  and  Israel  immediately  afterwards  became  insensible. 
At  the  suggestion  of  Gardiner,  all  the  rest  of  us  rushed  for  the  door,  and  the  plugs  were  at  once  removed 
from  the  roof  and  the  lami)s  extinguished.  By  prompt  attention  Dr.  Pavy  succeeded  in  reviving  Israel  and 
Biederbick.  Those  who  went  outside  were  less  fortunate  than  those  who  fainted  in  their  bags.  As  soon  as 
they  came  in  contact  with  the  pure  outside  air  all  strength  departed  and  they  fell  down  on  the  snow  in  an 
unconscious  state.  In  consequence  of  the  absence  of  all  animation  many  of  us  were  frost-bitten — Lieutenant 
Greely  and  myself  quite  severely.  The  lives  of  several  of  the  men  were  probably  saved  through  the  noble 
efforts  of  Gardiner,  who,  though  weak  and  sick,  did  all  in  his  power  to  get  us  in  the  hut.  Lieutenant  Greely 
said  that  when  he  came  out  and  saw  me  lying  on  my  back  in  the  snow,  with  my  face  perfectly  rigid  and 
white,  and  to  all  appearances  stiffly  frozen,  he  thought  me  dead.    Gardiner  said  that  I  appeare  1  to  suffer 


i 


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THE  LADY  FRA.NKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


497 


most,  and  that  I  fell  not  less  than  a  dozen  times.  I  would  recover,  stagger  to  my  feet,  and  immediately  fall 
fainting  again.  Lieutenant  Greely,  Conneli,  and  myself  were  affected  more  than  any  of  the  others,  although 
all  fainted  except  Pavy,  Frederick,  Elison,  Salor,  Henry,  and  the  two  Eskimo.  The  doctor  and  Frederick 
worked  like  Trojans  to  assist  those  who  were  less  fortunate  than  themselves.  During  the  excitement  of  the 
hour  about  half  a  pound  of  bacon  was  stolen  from  Lieutenant  Greely's  mess,  and  as  soon  as  the  fact  became 
known  great  indignation  was  expressed  that  in  our  midst  lived  a  man  with  nature  so  vile  and  corrupt — so 
utterly  devoid  of  all  feelings  of  humanity — as  to  steal  food  from  his  starving  companions  when  they  were 
thought  to  be  dying.  A  deed  so  contemptible  and  heartless  could  not  long  remain  concealed  from  those 
who  had  been  injured.  We  were  not  disappointed  in  the  discovery  that  Henry  was  the  thief.  He  had  lit- 
erally bolted  the  bacon,  and  his  stomach  was  overloaded  to  such  a  degree  that,  in  its  enfeebled  state,  it  could 
not  retain  this  unusual  quantity  of  food,  and  his  crime  was  thus  detected.  Jens  afterwards  reported  having 
seen  him  commit  the  theft,  and  illustrated  by  signs  his  manner  of  doing  it.  Threats  of  lynching  were  pri- 
vately spoken  of,  but  no  public  accusations  have  yet  been  made  against  the  perpetrator  of  this  foul  deed. 
The  conduct  of  this  fiend  Henry,  who,  clothed  in  the  garb  of  innocence,  deliberately  appropriates  to  himself 
the  food  belonging  to  his  comrades,  and  at  a  time  when  he  supposed  them  dying,  is  sufficient  reason  for  me 
to  lose  all  confidence  in  mankind. 

On  account  of  our  sufferings  during  the  morning  two  and  one-half  ounces  of  bread  were  issued  to  each 
man  in  addition  to  the  regular  allowance.  A  fox  track  having  been  seen  near  the  house,  Jens  at  once  vol- 
unteered to  follow  it.  Near  Cape  Sabine  he  overtook  the  little  animal,  but  it  escaped.  Fox,  bear,  and  seal 
skins  (the  latter  oil-tanned)  are  being  used  for  shrimp  bait;  seal  thongs  and  dovekie  legs  are  also  used  largely 
lor  the  same  purpose.  I  shot  a  white  fox  at  8.30  this  evening,  which  weighed  five  pounds  and  two  ounces, 
net.  The  intestines  were  divided,  as  heretofore,  between  the  messes.  I  can  never  forget  this  terrible  day, 
and  how  near  we  were  to  a  horrible  death. 

Tueiday,  March  25. — This  has  been  a  clear  and  beautiful  day,  with  light  westerly  winds ;  temperature  at 
6  a.  m.,  —28.0  [  —  33.3°  C],  and  at  5  p.  m.,  —12.0  [  —  24.4°  C.].  The  thermometer,  exposed  directly  to  the 
sun's  rays  at  noon,  registered  —0.5  [—18.1°  C.].  Rice  and  Whisler  went  down  to  the  shrimping  grounds, 
and  on  their  return  set  a  net  at  the  large  berg.  Owing  to  a  movement  in  the  ice  the  nets  had  been  over- 
turned and  the  baits  lost,  consequently  no  shrimps  were  obtained.  In  the  evening,  however.  Rice  caught 
nearly  four  pounds.  Schneider  prepares  the  bait  by  sewing  seal  or  other  skins  over  large  stones ;  these 
placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  nets  serve  as  a  weight  to  sink  them  and  at  the  same  time  they  form  a  surface  on 
which  the  little  crustaceans  can  collect.  Long  and  Christiansen  went  down  to  the  open  water,  but  saw  no 
game.  They  report,  however,  the  existence  of  two  "  blow-holes  "  through  the  floe  near  Cape  Sabine.  Shells 
and  mollusks  were  scattered  about  the  openings  to  bear  testimony  to  the  fact  that  seals  or  walrus  had  been 
visitors  there.  If  we  had  a  few  days  of  good  weather  it  is  more  than  probable  that  we  would  secure  some 
game.  Christiansen,  who  accompanied  Long  to  the  open  water  to-day,  returned  greatly  exhausted  and 
nearly  unconscious,  having  been  supported  and  half  carried  by  the  latter  all  the  way  from  Cape  Sabine. 
Had  it  not  been  for  Long's  timely  .assistance  Christiansen  must  have  perished  from  the  effects  of  the  low 
temperature. 

Henry  opened  his  own  case  this  morning  by  protesting  his  innocence,  but  he  was  at  once  confronted  with 
the  evidence  collected  last  evening,  and  all  the  disgusting  details  of  his  theft  were  brought  out.  Jens,  in  his 
imperfect  English,  aided  by  signs,  again  illustrated  to  us  the  manner  in  which  the  act  had  been  accomplished. 
Biederbick  and  Frederick  told  how  they  had  observed  that  he  ate  none  of  the  ration  issued  to  him  yesterday, 
and  testified  to  having  seen  the  large  quantity  of  bacon  which  he  vomited  into  a  can  last  evening.  The 
testimony  of  others  was  now  given,  but  that  of  Jens  and  the  two  others  mentioned  was  sufficient  to  convict 
him.  Long  saw  him  steal  and  drink  an  extra  ration  of  the  rum  which  was  issued  to  us  yesterday  to  coun- 
teract the  effects  of  our  terrible  exposure.  Ellis  now  reports  him  as  having  stolen  canned  goods  at  Fort 
Conger,  and  Conneli  related  how  he  had  seen  Henry  in  a  very  suspicious  and  compromising  situation  last 
fall;  and  how  he  had  afterwards  observed  an  empty  roast-beef  can  in  his  possession,  long  before  any  of  the 
roast  beef  had  been  issued.  Rice  stated  his  opinion  very  clearly,  and  suggested  that  violent  measures  would 
be  appropriate  under  the  circumstances.  Lieutenant  Greely  requested  the  individual  opinion  of  each  man, 
all  of  whom,  without  a  single  exception,  were  unanimous  in  the  expression  of  their  belief  that  he  was  guilty 
and  that  punishment  should  be  meted  out  to  him  in.  proportion  to  his  crime.  He  then  placed  Henry  in 
arrest.  He  is  not  to  leave  his  bag  without  permission,  and  in  no  case  will  he  go  out  of  doors  without  being 
accompanied  by  some  other  member  of  the  party.  He  still  asserts  that  he  is  innocent  of  the  charge  brought 
against  him,  but  the  evidence  brought  to  bear  on  the  case  is  conclusive  and  will  admit  of  no  doubts, 
H.  Mis.  393 32 


1     . 


498 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


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The  shrimps  are  now  mixed  with  pemmican  in  the  stews,  and  are  considered  quite  palatable.  Bieder- 
bick  was  relieved  from  the  duties  of  cook  this  morning  and  I.inn  was  detailed  to  take  his  place.  Last 
evening  Ellis  recjuePted  to  be  allowed  to  "fill  up"  by  eating  tea  leaves.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  this  rather 
extraordinary  request  was  not  granted  by  Lieutenant  Gieely.  This  evening,  in  violation  of  strict  orders,  he 
was  detected  in  the  "ct  of  taking  a  sly  smoke.  Lieutenant  Greely's  hands  are  frozen  to  a  greater  depth  than 
they  were  at  first  supposed  to  be;  they  are  much  blistered,  and  he  can  scarcely  use  them.  My  own,  being 
very  sore,  kept  me  awake  a  great  deal  last  evening,  but  they  will  not  interfere  with  my  duties.  The  snow 
has  been  removed  in  several  places  from  the  boat,  and  holes  to  admit  the  light  cut  through.  Over  the  open- 
ings thus  made  white  canvas  has  been  fastened,  and  we  are  now,  for  the  first  lime  since  entering  the  hut, 
enabled  to  distinguish  faces  across  the  room  without  the  aid  of  artificial  light. 

IVeifnes day,  March  26, 1884. — During  the  early  morning  the  weather  was  calm  and  cloudy;  at  9  a.  m. 
a  slight  breeze  from  the  west  was  perceptible,  and  snow  began  fallinf^.  At  11  a.  m.  the  wind  changed 
direction  to  southeast  and  increased  to  a  gale.  It  was  the  most  violent  storm  of  the  season,  and  we  trembled 
for  the  safety  of  our  shelter.  I  was  out  hunting  when  it  began,  and  so  great  w.^.s  the  velocity  that  I  was 
knocked  down  by  the  first  shock.  My  weakness  will  probably  account  for  my  inability  to  stand  up  against 
Its  terrific  force.  Temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  — lo.o  [—23.3°  C.];  at  1 1  a.  m.  it  had  risen  to  zero  [—17.8°  C], 
and  at  4  p.  m.  it  had  fallen  to  —2.6  [—18.9°  C.]. 

Rice  reports  having  seen  a  ptarmigan  track  on  Cemetery  Ridge.  He  hunted  unsuccessfully  in  that 
vicinity  for  some  time,  as  did  Long  and  myself.  Rice's  efforts  at  shrimp  fishing  did  not  meet  with  flattering 
success  to-day,  though  success  was  deserved.  With  a  total  disregard  for  personal  safety  he  went  down  to 
visit  the  nets  through  the  howling  storm,  and  returned  utterly  exhausted.  At  the  berg  only  a  few  speci- 
mens of  Crustacea  were  obtained,  and  ?t  the  main  fishery  nothing  of  importance  was  captured.  Bender, 
Schneider,  and  Whisler  made  for  him  a  long  spear  with  an  attachment  in  the  form  of  a  hook,  which  can 
be  used  for  collecting  sea- weed  (kelp)  from  the  bottom  of  the  sound. 

The  English  chocolate  which  I  found  a  few  days  ago,  and  which  had  been  reserved  for  the  sole  use  of 
brave  Elison,  was  missed  this  morning  from  the  place  where  it  had  been  stored  for  safety.  Circumstances 
point  strongly  to  Henry  as  the  guilty  party.  It  was  discovered  to-day  that  Ellis  had  been  smoking  roots  of 
saxifrage  in  violation  of  orders.  Lieutenant  Greely's  hands  are  badly  frost-bitten.  Shrimps  combined  with 
tallow  make  a  very  good  stew.  Lieutenant  Greely  publicly  announced  the  appointments  of  Sergeant  Fred- 
erick and  Hospital  Steward  Biederbick. 

Ihiirsday,  March  27,  1884. — Weather  fair  and  calm;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —12.0  [  —  24.4°  C  ];  at 
nodh,  —  lo.o  1—23.3°  C.J,  and  at  3  p.  m.,  —9.0  [ — 22.8°  C.j.  To  our  intense  relief,  the  gale  subsided  at 
midnight.     Lieutenant  Greely  to-day  celebrated  the  fortieth  anniversary  of  his  birth. 

Long  and  Jens  went  out  to  the  open  water  this  morning  accompanied  by  Salor,  who  carried  the  kayak. 
The  latter  returned  in  about  two  hours  with  fifteen  dovekies  which  Long  had  .shot,  and  which  Jens  secured 
with  the  aid  of  his  kayak.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  Connell  at  once  went  out  with  more  ammunition, 
and  soon  returned  with  eighteen  more  birds.  Long  was  the  hero  of  the  hour,  and  probably  the  proudest 
moment  of  his  life  was  when  he  threw  these  few  birds  at  the  feet  of  Lieutenant  Greely  as  a  birthday  offering. 
Cheer  after  cheer  was  given  the  hunters,  and  general  good  feeling  prevailed.  In  value,  each  dovekie  is 
equal  to  about  one  pound  of  meat.  This  appears  to  be  the  turning  point  in  our  fortunes.  Rice  caught 
about  twelve  pounds  of  shrimp,  but  to  accomplish  this  result  he  made  four  trips  to  the  fishing  grounds.  The 
legs  heads,  wings,  and  feet  of  the  dovekies  are  being  largely  used  for  bait. 

Henry  asked  Lieutenant  Greely  to  be  allowed  to  perform  some  share  of  the  daily  routine  in  the  hut, 
and  on  being  refused  said:  "You  will  kill  me  with  injustice  if  you  do  not."  Crocodile  tears  to  create 
sympathy  came  at  his  bidding,  and  flowed  freely  from  the  eyes  which,  a  few  days  ago,  looked  on  the 
wretched  condition  of  his  companions  without  remorse  or  pity.  He  has  been  socially  ostracized.  Snow 
began  falling  at  7  p.  m.  Jens  was  taken  with  a  slight  illness  this  evening,  but  speedily  recovered  under  the 
careful  attention  of  Dr.  Pavy,  who  administered  aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia  and  rum.  Christiansen  asked 
to  go  out  to  the  open  water  with  Long  to-morrow,  but  being  refused  permission  on  account  of  his  enfeebled 
condition,  he  worked  himself  into  a  towering  passion,  and  cursed  promiscuously  in  broken  English.  Ellis 
was  again  d  .'tected  in  the  act  of  eating  stearine,  and  to  prevent  a  repetition  of  this  violation  of  orders  he 
was  placed  under  guard.  His  entreaties  and  promises  were  made  with  so  much  earnestness  and  sincerity, 
that  he  was  finally  released. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


499 


Lieutenant  Greely  has  decided  to  allow  Rice  and  Frederick  to  go  to  Baird  Inlet  to  secure  the  meat 
abandoned  last  autumn  when  Elison  was  so  badly  frozen.  They  have  volunteered  for  the  service,  and  will 
probably  start  about  April  8.  Israel  tells  me  that  he  detected  the  doctor  in  the  act  of  stealing  bread  from 
Elison's  store.  I  took  an  inventory  of  the  provisions  this  morning.  The  morning  stew  of  36  ounces  of 
bread,  12  ounces  of  tallow,  and  7  ounces  of  shrimps,  made  a  highly  gratifying  meal  for  us.  The  cooks  arc 
using  2]4  ounces  of  alcohol  per  man  each  day  for  fuel.  Schneider  is  at  present  doing  well,  and  trying  to 
redeem  himself  in  the  eyes  of  his  companions  for  his  misdeeds  of  the  past.  Lieutenant  Clreely  contemplates 
sending  out  the  wall-tent  to  be  pitched  near  the  open  water.  The  kayak  will  be  kept  inside  this  tent  to 
avoid  the  necessity  of  carrying  it  back  and  forth. 

FrUny,  March  28,  1884. — A  beautiful  bright  day,  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —24.0 
[—31.1°  C.J;  at  4.30  p.  m.,  —18.0  [—27.8°  C.].  Exposed  in  the  sun  at  noon  the  thermometer  recorded 
+  5.0  [— is-o'C.].  I  went  down  to  Payer  Harbor  this  morning  by  crossing  over  the  island.  I  took  an 
aneroid  barometer  with  me  for  the  purpose  of  determining  the  altitude  of  the  island ;  this  I  found  to  be 
1,900  feet  [579""].  I  experienced  great  difficulty  in  clambering  down  the  abrupt  cliffs  overlooking  the  harbor, 
but  at  last  I  accomplished  it  in  safety,  bearing  with  me,  however,  several  bruises  as  mementoes.  I  found 
many  traces  of  ancient  Eskimo  encampments,  and  the  remains  of  a  broken  sledge  of  bone  with  wooden 
runners.  These  interesting  relics  were  carefully  placed  together  in  a  conspicuous  position  where  they  can 
be  found  later.  As  it  is  Lieutenant  Greely's  intention  to  move  camp  to  this  harbor  before  warm  weather, 
I  selected  a  site  between  two  small  lakes  for  our  encampment.  The  record  cache  is  in  excellent  condition, 
no  portion  of  the  cairn  having  fallen. 

There  is  a  ?arge  pool  of  water  lying  between  Brevoort  and  Stalknecht  Islands  which  was  probably 
caused  by  the  swiftness  of  the  eddying  currents  just  at  that  point.  I  observed  two  small  "  blow-holes  "  in 
the  floe,  which  have  been  recently  made  by  seals.  From  Brevoort  Island  I  followed  the  open  water  to  a 
point  just  north  of  Cape  Sabine  and  then  turned  homeward.  The  open  water  washes  against  the  east  side 
of  Brevoort  Island.  On  the  west  side  the  ice  is  intact.  During  my  tramp  I  saw  several  dovekies  and  fresh 
fox  tracks.  The  sledge  tracks  which  we  made  across  Payer  Harbor  last  fall  are  quite  distinctly  marked  in 
the  hard  snow  and  easily  followed.  This  fact  gives  me  hope  that  Rice  and  Frederick  will  be  able  to  follow 
their  old  tracks  in  Baird  Inlet  to  the  place  where  they  abandoned  the  meat.  Jewell  started  out  with  the 
kayak  this  morning,  but  being  too  weak  to  proceed  with  it  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  relieved  him  of  his  burden. 
Long  shot  fourteen  dovekies  to-day,  and  Rice,  the  persistent  and  tireless  worker,  captured  twenty-seven 
pounds  of  shrimps. 

The  tent  was  taken  out  of  the  house,  but  it  is  so  full  of  ice  that  it  will  be  spread  on  the  rocks  for  a  few 
days  with  the  hope  that  it  may  be  made  lighter  by  evaporation.  Christiansen  shot  a  ptarmigan  on  Cemetery 
Ridge  this  morning.  He  returned  immediately  to  the  hut  thoroughly  exhausted  with  the  exertion  of  walk- 
ing. He  seems  very  despondent,  and  says  that  he  will  never  again  return  to  his  home  in  Proven.  His 
companion,  Jens,  is  in  excellent  spirits  and  fair  physical  condition,  and  is  very  hopeful  of  the  future.  Lieu- 
tenant Greely  notified  me  that  from  Sunday  next  only  four  ounces  of  bread  per  man  would  be  issued  daily. 
The  meat  ration,  however,  will  be  increased  slightly.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  appears  to  be  growing  much 
stronger.  The  evening  readings,  which  have  been  a  source  of  so  much  gratification  to  us  in  the  past,  were 
discontinued  this  evening  owing  to  an  inclination  on  the  part  of  some  to  sleep  rather  than  hear  them. 

While  on  the  summit  of  the  island  to-day  I  had  an  excellent  view  of  Smith  Sound  and  Kane  Sea.  The 
former  is  free  of  all  ice  near  the  channel  except  "  brash",  or  that  of  a  few  days'  formation,  and  any  vessel 
could  steam  up  to  Cape  Sabine  without  difficulty  or  danger.  The  water  touches  Isabella  and  appears  to  reach 
to  the  Greenland  shore.  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  next  summer  will  be  equally  as  favorable  for  navigating 
the  waters  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay  as  was  the  summer  of  1881. 

Saturday,  March  29, 1884. — A  gale  rose  suddenly  at  about  8  a.  m.,  and  continued  without  interruption 
during  the  entire  day.  It  was  accompanied  by  a  heavy  fall  of  snow,  and  in  consequence  the  drifting  was 
heavy.  Temperature  at  6  a.m., —4.5  [—20.3°  C.];  at  9  a.m.,  zero  [  —  17.8°  C.J;  at  noon, +1.0  [—17.2°  C.J; 
and  at  2  p.  m., — 5.0  [—20.6°  C.J.  Our  breakfast  consisted  of  4J4  ounces  of  bread,  i  ounce  of  bacon,  and 
6  ounces  of  shrimps  to  each  man.  No  tea  was  served  and  its  absence  was  not  considered  a  serious  loss. 
For  dinner  we  had  each  iJ^S  ounces  of  dovekie,  i  ounce  of  bacon,  2^  ounces  of  bread,  and  11  ounces  of 
shrimps.  This  made  a  most  delightful  stew,  and  its  solid  contents  were  rather  more  than  we  had  been 
accustomed  to  eat  for  both  meals.  Although  this  makes  only  three  full  (?)  meals  (with  the  shrimps),  we  are 
already  beginning  to  note  a  favorable  change  in  our  condition. 


!    ; 


500 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Rice  shot  a  ptarmigan  this  evening,  and  reports  having  seen  five  more  on  the  hill  near  Cemetery  Ridge. 
He  caught  shrimps  to  the  amount  of  twelve  i)ounds,  I^ong  went  out  to  the  open  water,  hut  the  storm  drove 
him  back  withui  an  hour.  He  cached  the  kayak  on  a  floe.  We  discontinued  using  alcohol  as  fuel  and 
substituted  stearine,  of  which  we  have  a  moderate  supply.  Recently  we  have  all  complained  of  feeling 
chilly,  and  some  have  suggested  that  it  is  due  to  the  late  change  in  our  mode  of  living.  Lieutenant  (Ireely 
says  if  we  are  successful  in  procuring  game  before  May,  he  will  send  me  out  in  command  of  a  party  during 
that  month  to  explore  Hayes  Sound  and  the  adjacent  country.  Israel  and  Frederick  have  been  named  as 
the  two  who  will  accompany  me ;  they,  as  well  as  several  others,  having  volunteered  for  the  duty. 

Our  bread  ration  has  now  been  reduced  to  3^  ounces  per  day.  The  rations  of  Long  and  Jens  (the 
hunters)  have  been  increased  to  five  ounces  of  dovekie  meat  per  day.  Poor  suffering  Fllison!  This  morning 
he  turned  to  the  doctor  and  said:  "  My  toes  are  burning  dreadfully,  and  the  soles  of  my  feet  are  itching  in 
a  very  uncomfortable  manner;  can  you  not  do  something  to  relieve  this  irritation?"  He  little  dreams  that 
he  has  neither  toes  nor  feet;  they  having  sloughed  off  in  January, 

Suiiitiiy,  March  30,  1884. — The  gale  continued  all  last  night  with  relentless  fury,  but  at  4  p.  m.  a  slight 
lull  occurred  which  enabled  us  to  heave  one  huge  sigh  of  relief,  and  then  it  began  again  as  strong  and  hard 
as  ever.  Temperature  at  i  p.  m., —3.0  [—19.4°  C.];  at  5  p.  m., —5.5  [  —  20.8°  C] ;  inside  the  hut, +20.5 
(  —  6.4°  C.J.  When  the  lull  in  the  storm  occurred  this  evening  I  started  out  in  search  of  game,  but  was 
almost  immediately  driven  back  to  the  house  for  shelter.  The  storm  has  broken  all  the  newly-formed  ice 
in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Sabine,  and  the  water  has  encroached  considerably  on  Buchanan  Straits.  Great 
an.xicty  had  been  felt  concerning  the  fate  of  the  kayak  which  Long  left  yesterday  on  the  floe  near  the  open 
water.  To  (juiet  the  fears  which  had  arisen  that  it  had  been  washed  away,  Long  tramped  down  to  the  spot 
and  found  it  all  right.  The  barometer  is  fluctuating  greatly;  in  fact  since  the  beginning  of  the  storm  it  has 
been  very  unsteady.  Ralston's  finger  has  improved  so'much  that  he  is  now  pronounced  by  the  doctor  to 
be  in  condition  for  duty. 

Monday,  March  31,  1884. —  The  gale  continued  all  night  with  terrific  violence,  but  at  about  noon  to-day 
it  lulleil  for  a  little  while.  During  this  brief  respite  it  seemed  to  gain  additional  strength,  as  the  wind  blew 
with  redoubled  fury  a  short  time  afterwards.  Temperature  at  noon,  +3.0  [— i6.i°C.].  During  the  lull  this 
morning  Long  went  down  and  brought  the  kayak  nearer  to  the  land.  He  reports  having  seen  many  dove- 
kies,  and  that  the  white  caps  were  rolling  in  and  breaking  over  the  edge  of  the  floe.  The  water  is  gradually 
encroaching  on  the  floe,  and  is  now  opposite  Beebe  Point.  No  ice  of  any  considerable  importance  was 
observed  in  the  water.     Jens  saw  two  ptarmigan,  but  could  get  a  shot  at  neither. 

Christiansen  complained  this  evening  of  feeling  faint  and  sick.  A  drink  of  rum  was  administered,  which  ' 
seemed  to  restore  him  somewhat.  Frederick  was  also  ill — too  ill,  in  fact,  to  perform  the  duties  o£  a  cook. 
Schneider  very  kindly  volunteered  to  take  his  place  for  the  present.  The  stew  this  evening  was  very  thin 
and  unsatisfactory,  but  it  was  accejited  with  a  very  good  grace  by  .ill.  The  temperature  inside  the  house 
this  morning  was  +18.0  [—7.8°  C.].  This  is  the  lowest  we  have  experienced  since  the  house  was  banked 
last  fall.  I  suppose  it  is  owing  to  the  disagreeable  weather.  We  have  been  very  unsociable  and  unpleasant 
towards  one  another  to-day,  and,  to  augment  our  trouble  irritable  remarks  have  been  made  by  those  wlio 
should  know  better.    The  barometer  has  been  steady,  or  nearly  so,  notwithstanding  the  storm. 

Friday,  April  i,  1884. — The  gale  of  yesterday  continued  until  about  4  a.  m.,  when  it  subsided.  Weather 
cloudy;  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  5  a.  m.,  —5.5  [  —  20.8°  C] ;  at  11  a.  m.,  +6.0  [—14.4°  C.]; 
at  2  p.  m.,  -f  10. o  [—12.2°  C] ;  and  at  3.45  p.  m.,  —2.5  [ — 19.2°  C.J.  Rice  made  four  trips  to  the  shrimp- 
ing grounds,  capturing  thirty  pounds  of  shrimps.  Long  killed  eleven  dovekies  and  saw  four  seals,  one  of 
which  he  fired  at,  but  unfortunately  mi.ssed.     He  also  saw  a  large  walrus  on  a  drifting  floe  near  Cape  Sabine. 

Having  reduced  several  rifle-balls  to  fine  pieces,  I  reloaded  them,  with  the  view  of  utilizing  them  as 
shot.  Finding  a  brace  of  ptarmigan,  I  fired  twice  at  only  ten  paces  without  injuring  either.  As  a  substi- 
tute for  shot-gun  cartridges  they  certainly  are  not  a  success.  During  my  tramp  this  morning  I  found  many 
meat  caches  and  circles  of  stones,  which  indicated  that  the  Eskimo — perhaps  ages  ago — had  pitched  their 
tents  on  this  spot  during  the  summer  month.s.  I  also  found  the  skull  of  a  walrus,  which  bore  traces  of  great 
antiquity,  and  also  another  bone,  which  I  was  unable  to  identify,  owing  to  its  friable  and  decomposed  state. 
It  is  very  probable  that  the  natives  killed  the  walrus  here  only  when  it  crawled  to  the  rocks  to  bask  in  the 
sunshine.    Then  it  could  have  been  captured  easily  by  an  expert  native  with  his  tried  weapons  of  bone. 

This  is  one  of  the  worst  days  that  I  have  passed  in  this  place.  I  am  so  weak  from  the  effect  of  our 
long  fast  that  I  can  do  little  better  than  reel  along  like  a  drunken  man.  Our  wan,  pinched  faces  and  hollow, 
lusterless  eyes  are  turned  wistfully  towards  the  southern  horizon  in  hope  of  succor.     Will  it  ever  come  to 


THE  LADY  FBANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


501 


us,  afler  this  long  period  of  anxious  watching  and  waiting  ?  I  am  afraid  it  will  not.  It  is  with  the  utmost 
difficulty  that  we  can  persuade  ourselves  to  move  about  or,  in  fact,  to  do  anything  requiring  physical  effort. 
Even  the  moral  powers  appear  to  resist  the  employment  of  physical  energies.  No  tea  was  served  for  break- 
fast, a  thin,  watery  stew  being  substituted. 

IVfJnesiiay,  April 2,  1884. — Clear  weather;  brisk  westerly  winds;  temperature,  —13.0  [  —  25.00  C.]; 
nearly  stationary  all  day.  Rice  and  Frederick  remained  at  the  fishing  grounds  for  seven  hours,  and  during 
that  time  they  caught  thirty-two  pounds  of  shrimps.  The  drift  ice  had  crowded  down  again  from  the  north, 
completely  filling  the  water  spaces,  and  thus  preventing  the  hunters  from  seeing  any  game.  The  great  water 
channel,  which  two  days  ago  was  entirely  devoid  of  drift  ice,  is  now  covered  by  a  grinding  pack.  The 
absence  of  frost,  smoke,  or  vapor,  in  this  low  temperature,  leads  me  to  believe  that  the  sound  is  entirely 
choked  by  ice. 

Frederick  was  relieved  from  the  duties  of  cook,  and  Schneider  has  been  detailed  to  fill  the  ottice  thus 
vacatetl.  During  the  entire  winter  Frederick  has  performed  the  irksome  duty  of  cook  with  fidelity  and 
untiring  energy,  and  he  is  deserving  of  more  praise  than  is  in  my  power  to  bestow.  Christiansen  has  had  his 
ration  increased  to  the  same  amount  as  that  received  by  the  hunteis ;  still  he  does  not  improve  perceptibly. 
He  acts  in  a  very  sulky  and  angry  manner  because  he  is  not  given  more  food;  but  he  has  always  been  so 
faithful  and  so  devoted  to  the  interests  of  the  expedition  that  we  should  not  complain  of  him  now,  when  it 
is  hunger  and  not  the  man  that  speaks. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  3  ounces  of  dovekie,  2  ounces  of  bacon,  2^  ounces  of  bread,  and  about 
12  to  15  ounces  of  shrimps  are  being  consumed  daily  by  each  member  of  the  expedition  everybody  is 
ravenously  hungry,  and  all  are  growing  daily  weaker.  The  shrimps  are  of  very  little  benefit;  they  possess 
little  or  no  nutriment,  and  in  fact  they  serve  only  to  fill  the  stomach.  In  no  case  have  they  ever  alleviated 
the  pangs  of  hunger.  We  are  all  longing  for  a  thick,  rich  stew  of  the  flesh  and  blood  of  a  seal,  to  strengthen 
and  restore  our  reduced  and  emaciated  bodies  to  their  former  vigorous  condition.  Food !  food  !  is  tlie 
constant  cry  of  the  hungry — the  continual  topic  of  conversation  among  us!  This  gnawing  hunger  has 
driven  from  our  minds  all  other  thoughts  and  feelings;  and,  like  animals,  we  have  little  left  except  the  instinct 
for  eating.  Flven  the  passions  peculiar  to  men  in  vigorous  health  are  dormant  and  forgotten  in  our  weakness 
and  the  craving  for  food. 

Thursday,  April ^,  1884. — Clear  weather;  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  — 16.5  [—26,7" 
C.];  at  noon,  — 90  [ — 22.8°  C],  and  at  6  p.  m.,  —14.0  [  —  25.6°  C.].  At  noon  another  thermometer, 
exposed  in  the  sun,  registered  ■^- 15.0  [—9.4°  C.].  Rice  went  down  at  an  early  hour  to  the  fishing  grounds 
and  remained  working  faithfully  all  day.  Owing  to  a  scarcity  of  bait  he  succeeded  in  capturing  only  15 
pounds.  Salor,  who  assisted  him  on  this  occasion,  will  hereafter  take  charge  of  this  important  work,  to 
enable  Rice  to  make  preparations  for  his  contemplated  journey  to  Baird  Inlet. 

Long  and  Jens  again  went  out  to  their  old  hunting  grounds.  This  time  they  found  that  the  lane  had 
opened  slightly,  and  in  it  they  saw  a  seal,  at  which  they  fired,  but  unfortunately  missed.  They  also  saw 
three  dovekies  and  the  tracks  of  a  bear.  While  returning  from  the  open  water.  Long  shot  two  ptarmigan  on 
Cemetery  Ridge.     Lieutenant  Kislingbury  also  went  to  the  open  water  to-day,  but  he  returned  empty  handed. 

While  hunting  over  the  peninsula  today  1  found  several  bones  and  another  walrus  skull,  which  denoted 
extreme  age.  From  the  traces  of  the  Eskimo  which  I  have  observed  on  this  island,  I  have  formed  the 
opinion  that  their  visits  here  were  made  at  a  date  some  considerable  time  prior  to  their  wanderings  about 
Discovery  Harbor.  Everything  that  we  have  found  in  this  vicinity  bears  marks  of  greater  antiquity  than 
any  of  the  relics  discovered  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Conger.  Christiansen  is  now  given  half  a  dovekie  each 
day  more  than  the  others. 

Friday,  April  ^,  1884. — At  5  a.  m.  the  weather  was  clear  and  calm,  and  the  temperature  at  the  same 
time  was— lo.o  [— 23.3''C.]  In  an  hour  the  sky  had  clouded  and  the  temperature  changed  to  -f8.o 
[—13.3°  C.].  At  the  same  time  the  wind  rose  and  blew  briskly  from  the  west.  Snow  began  falling  at  noon. 
Long  and  Jens  went  as  usual  to  the  open  water,  aftd  I  tramped  to  Cape  Sabine  in  search  of  game.  During 
the  night  the  channel  had  cleared  out  again,  and  there  is  now  an  extensive  water  space  between  Cairn 
Point  and  Cape  Sabine.  The  storm  was  so  violent  that  I  turned  back  when  in  the  vicinity  of  Payer  Harbor. 
I  saw  a  bear  track  which  was  made  not  more  than  two  days  ago.  This  same  track  was  also  seen  by  Jens 
and  Long  much  farther  north.  The  hunters  also  saw  a  seal  and  several  dovekies,  but  they  were  not  fortu- 
nate enough  to  capture  anything.  With  even  an  inferior  bait,  Salor  was  remarkably  successful  in  catching 
fifteen  pounds  of  shrimps  to-d^ay.  I  purpose  to  make  a  trip  in  a  few  days  to  the  valley  west  of  Rice  Straits, 
with  the  view  of  ascertaining  if  game  may  be  procured  there.     Bender  is  again  complaining  with  soreness 


502 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


J « i^ 


m 


of  his  lungs.  The  rations  for  Lockwood  and  Linn  have  been  increased  by  giving  each  one-fourth  of  a 
dovekie  daily. 

Saturday,  April  i^,  1884. — Clear  weather  and  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  —  lo.o 
[  —  23.3°  C.];  at  12  m.,  —6.0  [  —  21.1°  C.];  and  at  4  p.  m.,  —13.0  (  —  25,0°  C.].  Christiansen,  who  had  been 
ailing  for  some  time,  died  at  9  a.  m.  The  exposure  incident  to  the  trip  which  he  made  with  Long  to  Mount 
Carey  last  month  is  the  immediate  cause  of  his  death,  but  the  primary  reason  is  patent  to  all — starvation 
claimed  him  as  a  victim.  On  his  return  from  the  trip  mentioned  his  system  was  so  far  reduced  that  his 
meager  ration  was  not  sufficient  to  recuperate  him.  At  2  p.  ni.  his  remains  were  interred  on  Cemetery  Ridge, 
and  a  military  salute  was  fired  over  his  grave.  Jens,  his  dusky  companion,  did  not  display  the  stoicism  that 
is  usually  attributed  to  the  people  of  his  race,  but,  on  the  contrary,  he  manifested  feelings  of  deep  and  heart- 
felt emotion.  The  "  Little  Man,"  as  he  is  called,  speaks  hopefully  of  the  future,  and  recommends  Eskimo 
Point  as  a  most  desirable  hunting-ground. 

Although  they  worked  faithfully,  no  game  was  seen  by  the  hunters  to-day.  I  worked  nearly  all  day  to 
get  Rice  and  Frederick  ready  for  the  field.  They  start  for  Baird  Inlet  to-morrow  morning,  weather  permit- 
ting. Their  ration  will  be  six  ounces  of  bread,  eight  ounces  of  pemmican,  and  six  ounces  of  alcohol  (the 
latter  for  fuel)  each  per  day. 

I  fear  that  Lockwood  and  Linn  will  soon  follow  the  faithful  Eskimo  who  has  just  died.  They  cannot 
or  will  not  eat  the  shrimps  any  more,  and,  though  they  are  given  an  extra  >  allowance  of  dovekie,  it  is  not 
sufficient  to  restore  their  depleted  strength.     Heaven  help  them,  we  can  do  no  more. 

Jens  is  to  receive  a  double  ration  until  further  notice,  which  we  hope  may  counteract  to  some  extent 
the  gloomy  impressions  made  on  his  mind  by  the  death  of  his  associate.  The  death  of  Christiansen  was 
very  sudden  and  unexpected;  he  had  wandered  out  of  doors  during  the  night  and  returned  to  his  bed  with- 
out assistance;  he  ate  his  breakfast  only  two  hours  before  he  passed  away,  and  no  one  thought  him  in  any 
immediate  danger  until  a  few  minutes  previous  to  this  event.  He  w.is  a  noble  and  faithful  fellow,  and  it  is 
consoling  to  know  that  his  end  was  painless.  Whisler  cut  two  holes  through  the  boat  and  covered  them 
with  canvas.  The  light  furnished  by  these  openings  will  do  us  good,  and  it  will  also  be  the  means  of  saving 
much  fuel.     Salor  caught  twelve  pounds  of  shrim[js  with  the  skins  and  skeletons  of  two  dovekies. 

Sunday,  Aprild,  1884. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  temperature  at  4  a.  m.,  — lo.o  [  —  23.3°  C] ;  at 
3.30  p.  m.,  -|-2.o  [  —  16.7°  C.];  and  at  7  p.  m.,  —8.0  [—22.2  C.].  The  traveling  equipment  intended  for 
Rice  and  Frederick  was  hauled  this  morning  by  Kislingbury,  Ellis,  Whisler,  and  myself  to  the  summit  of  the 
island  on  which  we  are  living.  The  small  sledge  was  used,  and  we  were  forced  to  ascend  to  the  summit  by 
way  of  the  glacier  near  the  shrimping  grounds,  which,  owing  to  its  steep  and  slippery  surface,  made  our  work 
very  severe  and  laborious.  We  have  never,  until  to-day,  realized  the  full  extent  of  our  weakness.  This  trial 
has  fully  convinced  us  of  the  utter  hopelessness  of  escape  to  Litdeton  Island,  because  of  our  reduced  state. 
Four  hours  and  ten  minutes  of  steady  traveling  were  required  to  attain  the  top  of  the  island,  and  one  hour 
and  thirty  minutes  were  consumed  in  returning  to  the  hut.  .  Light  snow  fell  during  the  morning. 

The  hunters  were  again  unsuccessful  at  the  open  water ;  they  saw  a  seal  and  two  dovekies,  but  unfortu- 
nately took  none.  The  bird  of  ill-omen — the  raven — is  now  seen  almost  every  day.  We  would  consider  it 
a  bird  of  paradise  if  we  could  introduce  one  of  them  in  our  thin  stews.     Salor  caught  fifteen  pounds  of  shiimps, 

Linn — our  genial  comrade,  our  tried  and  trusted  friend — passed  quietly  away  at  7  p.  m.  How  indiffer- 
ently we  regard  anything  of  this  nature  now ;  what  stoicism  is  shown  when  the  skeleton  hand  of  Death 
removes  from  our  midst  one  of  our  intimate  companions.  But  could  it  be  otherwise?  Our  own  condition 
is  so  wretched,  so  palpably  miserable,  that  death  would  be  welcomed  rather  than  feared.  During  the  winter 
Linn  had  been  rather  petulant  and  irritable;  but  this  was  not,  however,  his  natural  disposition.  It  was 
owing  to  the  terrible  exposure  to  which  he  was  subjected  while  on  the  Cape  Isabella  trip  in  November  last. 
His  sufferings  there  affected  his  mind  to  a  certain  degree ;  but  we  will  remember  him  only  as  he  was  when 
at  Fort  Conger — a  noble,  generous-hearted,  faithful  man;  a  friend  whom  one  could  admire,  respect,  and 
love.  After  his  death  Rice  and  Ralston  slept  soundly  in  the  same  sleeping-bag  with  the  corpse.  This  fact 
alone  will  demonstrate  how  utterly  indifferent  we  are  to  the  presence  of  death. 

As  contemplated.  Rice  and  Frederick  departed  on  their  hazardous  mission  at  9.15  p.m.  Farewells 
were  uttered  with  husky  voices  and  tremulous  lips;  the  silent  prayers  of  those  who  remained  went  with  them, 
and  eyes  to  which  tears  were  strangers  now  became  dimmed  from  emotion.  Emaciated,  weak,  and 
despondent,  they  take  their  lives  in  their  hands  and  go  out  alone  in  the  bleak,  dreary  wastes  of  an  arctic 
desert  to  suffer  mental  tortures  indescribable,  and  to  endure  famine  and  to  face  the  frosts  of  winter  to  save 
or  prolong  the  lives  of  their  comrades. 


THE  LAnY  FUAXKIJN  HAY  KXPKDITION. 


503 


Afoiuiay,  April  i,  1884. — Snow  lias  been  falling  heavily  all  day ;  ralm  weather;  temiieratiiro  at  T.  a.m., 
—8.7  [  — 22.6°  C.];  ami  at  1  p.m.,  +j.o  [-16.7*  C.]. 

Poor  Linn  was  buried  at  10  a.  ni.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  s<oo|)ed  out  a  j;rave  for  him  on  Cemetery 
Ridge.  After  the  first  six  inches  1 152"""]  from  the  surface,  the  gravel  was  frozen  as  hard  as  marble,  so  the 
grave  was  necessarily  a  shallow  one.  It  was  all  that  eight  of  us  could  do  to  haul  the  body  to  the  ridge  on 
the  large  sledge.  The  weight  of  the  corpse  was  trifling  as  < ompared  with  that  of  an  ordinary  si/cd  num. 
He  was  literally  a  skeleton. 

I  shot  two  ptarmigan  this  morning  with  one  shot.  I  saw  another  binl  which  was  Hying  to  the  west- 
ward over  our  camp  uttering  hoarse  croaks  as  it  went.  The  cry  was  not  familiar  to  me.  Hiederbick  diluted 
a  (juantity  of  alcohol,  antl  with  the  addition  of  some  slight  flavoring  made  an  excellent  "moonshine"  drink, 
which  imparted  life  and  warmth  to  the  poor  fellows  for  a  brief  time  at  least.  Lieutenant  (Ireely  contem- 
])lates  making  jieriodical  issues  of  this  drink  on  the  recommendations  (jf  Dr.  Pavy.  Owing  to  the  severity 
of  the  snow-storm  the  hunters  ilid  not  go  out;  the  shrimper  alwj  did  not  face  the  storni  to-day.  We  fear 
that  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  Jewell  will  soon  follow  Linn;  they  are  both  very  weak  and  are  failing 
rapidly.  Jens  is  in  good  spirits  and  jjredicts  success  in  hunting  when  we  are  blessed  with  warmer  weather. 
Several  are  writing  their  wills,  as  well  as  letters  to  their  friends. 

Tufiday,  April  9,,  1884. — All  of  last  night  and  throughout  the  entire  ilay  the  snow  has  fallen  heavily 
and  high  winds  have  prevailed.  In  consequence  of  the  great  velocity  of  the  wind,  the  drift  was  at  times 
terrific.  Our  brave  companions,  Rice  and  Frederick,  must  be  suflering  greatly  from  the  eftects  of  this  storm. 
Temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  +  13.5  [—10.3°  C.];  and  at  3  p.m.,  —5.0  [—20.6°  C.J. 

Lieutenant  Lockwood  fell  fainting  in  the  passage-way  this  evening,  and  much  difficulty  was  exjierienced 
in  resuscitating  him.  Jewell  is  nearly  helpless,  and  his  mind  has  lost  much  of  its  vigor;  he  will  be  a  total 
wreck  in  a  few  days.  "Moonshine"  was  again  issued  to-day,  and  with  an  effect  equally  as  satisfactory  as 
yesterday.  Salor  says  that  he  is  no  longer  able  to  walk  to  the  shrimping  grounds,  and  1  have  undertaken 
to  relieve  him  from  his  arduous  duties.  After  dinner  I  went  down  through  the  howling  storm  to  the  fishing 
|)lace,  returning  at  nine  o'clock  with  fifteen  jjounds  of  shrimps.  The  mode  of  procuring  these  crustaceans 
is  as  follows:  An  iron  barrel  hoop  is  placed  inside  the  open  end  of  a  gunny  sack,  and  such  bait  as  we  could 
use  was  fastened  in  the  bottom ;  the  sack  or  net  was  then  lowered  through  the  ice-hinge  or  tidal  cr.-n  k  to 
the  bottom  of  the  sea  (about  20  feet  [6"']  at  low  tide),  where  myriads  of  these  minute  animals  collected  on 
the  surface  of  the  baits.  A  haul  of  these  nets  is  made  every  few  minutes,  and  amounts  varying  from  two 
or  three  ounces  to  as  many  pounds  are  secured  each  time.  The  fishing  place  is  about  one  mile  east  from 
Camp  Clay,  near  Beebe  Cache. 

Wednesday^  April <),  1884. — The  storm  has  not  yet  abated;  temperature  at  7  a.m.,  —7.0  [—21.7''  C], 
and  at  11  a.  m.,  -fi.5  [—16.9°  C.].  Lieutenant  Lockwood  became  unconscious  at  an  early  hour  this 
morning,  and  at  4.20  p.m.  he  breathed  his  last.  His  end  was  painless  and  without  a  struggle.  This  will 
be  a  sad  and  unexpected  blow  to  his  family,  who  evidently  idolize  him.  To  me  it  is  also  a  sorrowful  event; 
we  had  been  companions  during  long  and  eventful  excursions  towards  the  north  and  towards  the  west,  and 
my  feelings  towards  him  were  akin  to  that  of  a  brother.  Biederbick  and  myself  straightened  his  limbs  and 
prepared  his  remains  for  burial.  It  was  the  saddest  duty  that  I  have  ever  yet  been  called  upon  to  perform, 
and  I  trust  I  may  never  experience  the  like  again.  Jewell's  condition  is  about  the  same  as  yesterday.  Jens' 
extra  ration  has  been  discontinued  for  the  present.     "  Moonshine  "  was  again  issued  to-day. 

The  order  of  August,  1 88 1,  relieving  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  at  his  own  request,  from  duty  with  the 
expedition,  was  revoked  to-day  by  Lieutenant  Greely.  On  restoring  him  to  duty  Lieutenant  Greely 
eulogized  him  in  the  highest  terms  for  his  efficient  assistance  in  the  retreat  from  Fort  Conger,  and  expressed 
a  wish  that  their  future  intercourse  might  be  of  the  most  agreeable  nature. 

I  had  Ellis  prepare  a  shrimp-net  with  which  Whisler  attempted  to  fish  at  a  small  island  near  the  camp. 
Ellis  was  again  detected  eating  stearine,  and  as  a  punishment  for  his  offense  his  dinner  was  denied  him. 
He  wept  and  begged  in  the  most  abject  manner  for  a  remission  of  his  sentence,  and  Lieutenant  Greely 
finally  modified  it  so  that  only  half  his  tea  was  taken  from  him.  Jens  shot  at  a  ptarmigan  this  morning,  but 
for  some  inexplicable  reason  the  bird  escaped  injury.  Owing  to  the  excessive  weakness  of  nearly  all  the 
men.  Dr.  Pavy  has  volunteered  to  cut  all  the  ice  required  for  cooking  purposes.  Bender  is  again  complaining 
with  chest  trouble.  I  took  an  inventory  of  the  provisions  this  morning  with  the  following  result:  Meat  of 
all  kinds,  156  pounds;  bread,  70  pounds.  We  ask  one  another,  " Can  we  prolong  life  until  the  loth  of 
May?"  Although  the  answer  is  usually  a  favorable  one,  we  know  that  many  chances  are  against  us. 
Our  future  is  dark  and  gloomy,  and  I  doubt  if  arctic  clouds  are  ever  seen  with  a  silver  lining. 


I 
i  ( 


504 


TUB  LADY  FllANKLIX  HAY  EXPEDITION. 


Ttiursday,  April  lo,  1884.  — This  severe  storm  which  has  been  raging  for  four  days,  continued  until  about 
8  p.  m.  to-day,  when  it  abated  to  a  fresh  breeze  and  snow  ceased  falling.  Temperature  at  4  a.  m.,  +2.5 
[  —  16.4°  C.];  at  I  p.  m.,  —9.0  [  —  22  8"  C.|,  and  at  7  p.  ni.,  —14.0  [  —  25.6°  C.].  Jewell  is  endeavoring  to 
rally  from  the  stupor  into  which  he  has  fallen,  but  the  effort  is  a  feeble  one,  and  he  is  nut  likely  to  succeed. 
He  neither  relishes  nor  cats  the  shrimps  any  more,  and  his  death  by  starvation  seems  inevitable.  The  last 
sad  rites  were  performed  over  the  remains  of  our  late  comrade,  Lockwood;  and  he  was  interred  with  the 
others  on  Cemetery  Ridge.  I  visited  the  shrimp  fishery  at  4  a.  in.  and  at  8  a.  m.,  and  again  during  the 
evening ;  the  three  hauls  aggregating  twenty-two  pounds.  I  have  assumed  these  duties  permanently  in 
addition  to  the  work  connected  with  the  issuing  of  provisions. 

Although  Biederbick  is  r|uite  ill,  yet  he  nevertheless  continues  in  wonderfully  good  s|>irits,  and  he  does 
all  in  his  power  to  cheer  his  more  despondent  companions.  Gardiner  is  gradually  drooping,  and  Connell 
and  Ellis  are  beginning  to  feel,  to  a  marked  degree,  the  effects  of  this  horrible  life.  Jens  also  is  feeling  far 
from  well.  What  could  we  do  without  his  co-operation  in  hunting  ?  Nothing.  Without  him  the  kayak 
cannot  be  used;  and  without  the  kayak  no  game  can  be  taken. 

Whisler  made  a  most  startling  statement  to  Lieutenant  Greely  and  myself,  relative  to  the  disloyal  and 
dishonorable  conduct  of  Dr.  Pavy  during  the  autumn  of  1881,  when  they  were  traveling  together  in  the 
attempt  to  reach  Cape  Joseph  Henry  for  tidings  of  the  missing  yeannette. 

The  alcoholic  drink  was  again  issued,  and  pleasant  results  followed.  I  used  the  last  of  the  bird  skins 
for  shrimp  bait  this  evening.  I  will  now  have  to  use  their  skeletons,  and  all  the  oil-tanned  seal-skin  that  I 
can  find. 

Friday,  April  11,  1884. — This  is  the  most  beautiful  day  that  we  have  had  this  month.  The  weather 
has  been  clear  and  calm,  and  the  minimum  temperature,  observed  at  4  a.  m.,  was  —23.0  [  —  30.6°  C.].  We 
hope  that  this  bright  sunlight  will  have  a  salutary  effect  on  the  condition  of  all  who  venture  out  to  enjoy  it. 
Long  and  Jens  saw  nothing  at  the  water's  edge  except  a  walrus,  which  they  could  not  approach  owing  to 
intervening  leads.  Long  had  a  narrow  escape  from  being  carried  out  to  sea  this  morning.  A  piece  of  the 
floe,  on  which  he  was  standing  at  the  open  water,  broke  from  the  main  body  of  ice  and  drifted  out  into  Kane 
Sea.  Jens  having  tliscovcred  Long's  desperate  situation,  immediately  paddled  out  to  him  in  his  kayak. 
Long  earnestly  urged  him,  but  in  vain,  to  return  to  the  fast  ice  and  save  himself.  The  faithful  fellow  dog- 
gedly refused  to  go,  and  said  in  his  simple  way,  "  You  go,  me  go  too!"  Fortunately  the  turning  tide  wafted 
their  ice  raft  to  the  fast  ice,  and  they  escaped. 

Physically,  Israel  is  completely  broken  down ;  but  his  mental  condition  seems  to  be  as  vigorous  as 
ever.  Jewell  does  not  rally,  except  under  the  influence  of  stimulants.  He  became  unconscious  late  this 
evening.  In  consideration  of  my  heavy  duties  in  connection  with  the  shrimping.  Lieutenant  Greely  directed 
me  to  issue  to  myself  two  ounces  of  pemmican  daily,  in  order  that  my  strength  be  kept  so  that  I  can  work 
for  the  others.  He  also  directed  that  the  daily  rations  of  Israel  and  Jewell  be  increased  four  ounces.  We 
are  all  once  more  at  work  making  imaginary  bills  of  fare,  and  partaking,  in  the  same  way,  of  sumptuous 
repasts. 

Whisler  volunteered  to  relieve  me  at  the  shrimp  fishery  this  morning,  and  at  4  o'clock  he  made  a  trip, 
returning  with  about  three  pounds.  At  noon  after  three  hours'  fishing  I  brought  in  eight  pounds  more. 
After  dinner  I  went  down  again,  and  while  waiting  for  the  tardy  little  crustaceans  to  collect  on  my  wretched 
bait,  I  walked  up  and  down  in  the  beaten  path  to  keep  from  freezing,  my  mind  being  occupied  with 
thoughts  of  our  deplorable  situation  and  the  particular  dishes  that  I  would  like  to  partake  of  just  at  that 
moment.  Chancing  to  glance  in  the  direction  of  Beebe  Point,  I  espied  a  medium  sized  bear,  not  more  than 
two  hundred  yards  [183"']  away,  coming  directly  towards  me  with  a  shambling  gait.  My  first  impulse  was 
to  secrete  myself  behind  a  hummock  near  the  shrimping  hole  and  to  make  an  attack  on  the  animal  with  the 
hatchet  and  sea-weed  spe.ar  when  he  approiiched  my  place  of  conce.ilment.  These  weapons,  however,  did 
not  strike  me  as  being  particularly  desirable  ones  with  which  to  engage  in  morttil  combat  with  a  ferocious 
and  hungry  bear,  and  especially  when  wielded  by  one  whose  strength  was  scarcely  equal  to  that  of  a  child. 
It  occurred  to  me  that,  under  the  circumstances,  discretion  was  the  better  part  of  valor,  so  taking  the  bucket 
containing  the  five  pounds  of  shrimps  which  I  had  collected  (I  could  not  afford  to  lose  both  the  shrimps  and 
the  bear)  I  hastily  decamped.  Dodging  through  the  belt  of  heavy  ice  lining  the  shore,  I  gained  unseen  the 
well-trodden  path  leading  to  the  hut.  I  have  not  the  remotest  idea  of  how  I  managed  to  reach  the  house, 
but  I  do  know  that  ages  seemed  to  elapse  while  I  was  dragging  myself  over  Cemetery  Ridge,  and  that  I 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXPEDITION. 


505 


discariloJ  my  heavy  mittens  ami  shrimi)  bucket  near  the  house.  Crawling  through  the  entrant  m  my  hands 
and  knees  I  pushed  the  door  o[)en  with  my  liead,  and  falling  into  the  passage  completely  cn  ..lUsted  called 
out,  "A  bear!"  Long  and  Jens  hastily  madj  i)reparations  to  start;  in  the  mean  time  a  quantity  f)f  diluted 
alcohol  had  been  given  me,  and  as  soon  as  I  could  speak  my  story  was  brielly  told  and  some  advice  given 
as  to  the  best  way  to  proceed  to  effoLt  tlic  ca|)ture,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  soon  followed  the  hmiters,  but 
having  ran  to  Cemetery  Ridge,  he  returned  in  a  few  minutes  completely  exhausted  and  broken  down.  At 
9.50  ]).  m.  the  hunters  were  heard  a|)proaching  the  hut,  and  a  moment  later  they  aiinoiiiK  etl  to  their  anxious 
companions  that  the  bear  was  dead,  and  that  he  was  lying  within  a  few  feet  of  the  open  water  about  three 
miles  away.  Daring  the  intc-val  between  the  time  we  heard  the  approaching  footsteps  of  Long  and  Jens 
to  the  moment  their  success  wa;;  made  known  the  suspense  was  terrible;  our  hearts  almost  ceased  to  beat; 
our  lives  were  hanging  in  the  balance^-.hances  for  life  or  death  were  eipial. 

Within  twenty  minutes  iifter  the  arrival  of  the  hunters  the  large  sledge  was  made  ready,  and  Dr.  Pavy, 
Long,  Schneider,  Henry,  Whisler,  Ralston,  Salor,  LIlis,  and  myself  started  with  it  towards  the' open  water. 
Three  ounces  of  bacon  were  given  each  man  before  starting,  in  order  that  iiis  strength  might  be  better  main- 
tained. The  open  water  was  reached  at  midnight,  and  with  considerable  difliculty  the  animal  was  loaded  on 
the  sledge  and  securely  fastened.  The  blood  which  had  tlowcil  over  the  ice  from  the  bullet  wounds  was 
chopped  out  with  a  hatchet  and  saved.  This  is  Good  Friday — so  I  am  told — and  it  is  also  the  last 
"fasting"  day  that  we  are  likely  to  experience  in  these  regions. 

Sd/un/iiy,  April  12,  1884. — Clear,  calm  weather,  and  on  the  whole  a  brighter  day  even  than  yesterday; 
temperature  at  2  a.m.,  —24.0  [—31.1°  CJ,  and  7  p.  m.,  — .-o.!  [  —  28.90  C.]. 

We  started  back  from  the  open  water  soon  after  midnight  and  reached  the  hut  at  2.20  a.  m.,  having 
accomplished  a  most  remarkable  journey,  taking  into  consideration  our  deplorable  condition.  Kllis  did  not 
accompany  us  for  more  than  a  half  mile  when  he  became  exhausted,  and  I  sent  him  back  to  the  hut.  With 
feeble  cheers  our  still  more  feeble  men  hauled  this  glorious  prize,  the  bear,  through  the  passage  to  the  middle 
of  the  room,  where  he  was  turned  over  to  Bender  and  Hiederbick  to  be  skinned  and  dressed.  Everything 
connected  with  this  animal  will  be  utilized — intestines,  lungs,  heart,  head,  &c.,  will  each  be  used  in  time. 
The  liver,  wind-pipe,  feet,  and  the  stomach  (which  is  nearly  em|)ty)  will  be  used  by  me  for  shrimp  bait. 
The  blood  will  be  used  for  thickening  stews.  We  look  on  this  fellow  as  the  means  of  our  salvation;  with- 
out him,  in  two  weeks,  Ellis,  Connell,  Bender,  Biederbick,  Israel,  Gardiner,  Salor,  and  Kislingbury  would  be 
in  their  graves ;  as  it  is,  they  are  just  snatched  from  its  brink.  What  words  are  adeijuate  to  express  the 
rejoicing  manifested  in  our  little  party  to-night  ?  There  are  none ;  words  cannot  express  our  feeling  of  happi- 
ness and  contentment.  For  days  and  weeks  we  have  been  expecting  death  at  any  time,  and  its  ap[>roach 
had  been  robbed  of  all  its  terrors  by  our  sufferings.  Life  had  seemed  to  us  a  vague  something  in  the  misty 
distance,  which  was  beyond  our  power  to  retain  or  control.  The  knowledge  that  it  is  now  restored  to  us, 
and  that  ere  many  months  we  will  have  returned  in  safety  to  our  homes,  is  sufficient  cause  for  tears  among 
the  weaker  members  of  the  party.  Life  now  seems  ten  times  nweeter  than  at  any  former  period  of  our  ex- 
istence; and  we  trust  that  this  lesson  will  not  be  lost  on  us  in  the  future.  Jewell  died  at  10  a.  m.  to-day 
without  .a  struggle.  Biederbick  and  myself  closed  his  ayes  and  straightened  his  thin,  emaciated  limbs.  At 
2  p.  m.  he  was  placed  beside  the  others  on  Cemetery  Ridge.  Poor  fellow !  he  might,  in  all  probability,  have 
been  saved  had  the  bear  been  killed  twenty-four  hours  earlier. 

Lieutenant  Greely  was  kind  enough  to  transfer  me  to  the  Signal  Corps  with  my  present  rank.  This 
transfer,  of  course,  is  subject  to  the  approval  of  the  Secretary  of  War.  Our  meat  ration  has  been  increased 
to  eight  ounces  per  day.  The  hunters  and  shrimper  ( Long,  Jens,  and  myself)  are  to  receive  in  consideration 
of  our  severe  labor  a  double  ration  of  meat.  Elison  also  receives  the  same  allowance  as  the  hunters.  Long 
and  Jens  rested  to-day  while  Bender  repaired  their  guns. 

Sunday,  April  13,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —9.0  [  —  22.8°  C],  and  at 
7  p.  m.,  —14.0  [—25.6°  C  ].     I  brought  up  twenty  pounds  of  shrimps  immediately  after  breakfast. 

A  gloom  was  cast  over  our  party  to-day  by  the  arrival  of  Frederick,  who  reports  the  death  by  exposure 
of  our  beloved  friend  and  comrade  Rice,  at  Baird  Inlet,  on  the  9th  instant,  during  the  progress  of  the  severe 
storm  which  raged  at  that  time.  Together  they  had  reached  Eskimo  Point,  where  everything  was  cached 
except  the  sledge,  rum,  fuel,  and  a  few  rations.  They  then  proceeded  out  on  the  floe  in  search  of  the  meat ; 
but  no  trace  of  it  could  anywhere  be  discovered  in  the  driving  storm.  Rice  finally  (3  p.  m.)  broke  down 
from  exhaustion  and  weakness,  and  at  7.45  p.  m.  he  breathed  his  last.  He  had  drawn  to  the  very  last 
moment  from  his  mental  and  physical  resources,  and  it  may  be  truly  said  that  he  died  while  walking.     With 


•  5 


'p! 


506 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


cheering  words,  stimulating  drinks,  and  all  available  means  in  his  power,  Frederick  tried  to  revive  his  dying 
companion,  but  in  vain.  Could  one  conceive  of  a  saddsr  picture  than  that  of  the  nearly  distracted  survivor 
lying  on  the  sledge  with  his  dead  friend  in  his  arms,  miles  away  from  any  human  being,  and  conscious  that 
no  power  on  earth  could  extend  him  aid.  The  storm  howling  loudly  about  him,  combined  with  the  blinding 
drift,  added  physical  suffering  to  mental  torture.  He  scooped  a  shallow  grave  in  the  snow,  and  in  it  the 
body  of  his  cherished  comrade  was  placed.  A  few  pieces  of  ice  heaped  over  it  was  all  that  marked  the  resting- 
place  of  one  who  was  as  brave  and  noble  as  any  that  the  world  has  ever  known.  Frederick  returned  the 
sledge  and  all  the  equipment  as  far  as  Cocked  Hat  Island,  where  he  left  it  for  the  present. 

Frederick  has  performed  his  duty  nobly,  and  this  trip  in  which  he  and  Rice  participated  will  always  be 
conspicuous  as  the  most  heroic  effort  ever  made  by  any  party  in  these  regions.  Frederick  says  that  many 
pools  of  water  exist  at  Eskimo  Point,  and  that  a  long  lane  of  water  has  opened  in  Rice  Straits,  in  which 
he  saw  a  small  seal.  He  also  saw  a  snow-bunting  near  that  place,  and  a  fox  not  far  from  this  house.  Long 
shot  a  small  seal  at  noon,  and  Whisler  and  myself  hauled  it  in  this  evening.  It  will  weigh  about  eighty-five 
pounds  including  the  blubber.  Jens  says  he  saw  a  white  whale  near  Cape  Sabine  this  morning.  Lieuten- 
ant Greeiy  lias  increased  our  meat  ration  to  one  pound  daily.  He  promoted  and  transferred  Frederick  to  the 
Signal  Curps,  to  fill  the  vacancy  caused  by  the  death  of  Rice. 

Monday,  April  14,  1884. — The  weather  here  under  the  shelter  of  the  island  has  been  beautiful  to-day, 
but  the  hunters  say  that  the  wind  has  been  blowing  with  great  velocity  at  the  open  water,  and  that  no  game 
was  seen  there.  Temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —15.0  [  —  26.'°  C.].  After  a  long  and  tedious  period  spent  at  the 
fishing  grounds,  I  brought  in  twenty  two  pounds  of  shrimps.  The  hunters  report  having  seen  a  bear  track 
near  the  open  water.  It  w.is  made  recently.  In  a  letter  which  Rice  committed  to  the  care  of  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury  before  departing  on  his  last  journey,  he  appoints  M.  P.  Rice,  of  Washington,  D.  C,  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury,  and  myself  as  executors,  and  gives  explicit  directions  regarding  the  disposition  of  his  property. 
Connell  saw  a  snow-bunting  on  the  hill  above  camp  to-day.  Frederick  has  slept  nearly  all  day,  and  he  is 
recovering  from  the  effects  of  his  late  trip  as  speedily  as  could  be  expected  under  the  circumstances.  Lieu- 
tenant Greely  contemplates  sending  the  hunters  to  Payer  Harbor  with  the  wall  tent  in  a  few  days.  Later 
on  the  entire  party  will  move  down,  and  our  effects,  such  as  are  not  needed  for  immediate  use,  will  be  trans- 
ferred by  easy  stages. 

Lieutenant  Greely  has  not  been  feeling  well  for  the  last  few  days.  The  doctor  says  that  he  is  suffering 
with  an  irritation  of  the  heart.  In  view  of  the  fact  that  all  who  were  greatly  reduced  had  received  extra 
rations,  Lieutenant  Greely  felt  justified  in  using  a  few  additional  ounces  of  bread  and  pemmican  this  even- 
ing, and,  as  a  natural  result,  he  felt  a  decided  improvement  in  his  condition.  Extra  rations  were  issued  to 
Gardiner  all  of  last  autumn  and  about  half  of  the  winter;  to  Elison  all  winter;  to  Rice  and  Jens  just  before 
starting  to  Greenland,  and  again  to  J jns  only  a  few  days  ago;  to  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  Jewell,  Israel, 
Long,  Linn,  1   cderick,  Christiansen;  and  I  also  was  directed  to  increase  my  ration  by  two  ounces. 

Tuesday,  April  15,  1884. —  Clear  weather,  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  —  icS" 
[  —  28.2°  C],  and  at  3  p.  m.,  —12.0  [  —  24.4°  C.].  I  caught  fifteen  pounds  of  shrimps  to-day.  Schneider 
assisted  me  greatly  by  coming  down  and  carrying  my  can  to  camp.  His  timely  aid  was  more  than  welcome 
to  me,  ;.o  I  was  very  weak  and  tired,  having  been  reduced  by  severe  labor  during  the  last  week.  Ai  the 
open  water  Long  and  Jens  saw  three  seals,  one  of  which  was  shot  by  the  latter,  but  it  sank  before  the  kayak 
could  be  brought.  Elison's  bread  ration  has  been  reduced  to  four  ounces ;  the  general  ration  is  two  ounces. 
The  issue  of  diluted  alcohol  will  be  continued  until  further  orders.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  Ellis  are 
quite  ill  from  the  effects  of  overexertion  during  the  bear  e.xcitement  on  the  evening  of  the  nth  inst.  Gardi- 
ner fainted  this  morning,  but  this  evening  he  says  he  feels  much  better.  Lieutenant  Greely  has  been  troubled 
with  flux  today,  and  he  was  feeling  generally  so  much  weaker  than  usual  that  he  directed  a  small  extra  issue 
of  bread  and  pemmican  for  himself. 

Wednesday,  April  16,  1884. — A  heavy  snowfall  with  moderate  winds  from  the  west  visited  us  to-day; 
temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  +5.0  [  —  15.0°  C.];  at  3  p.m.,  +19.8  [—6.8°  C.];  and  at  7  p.m.,  +2.0  [  — i6.7''C.]. 
During  the  morning's  fishing  I  caught  eighteen  pounds  of  shrimps ;  in  the  evening  I  again  hauled  the  nets, 
which  resulted  in  taking  twenty-three  pounds  more.  In  the  future  I  will  leave  the  nets  down  when  I  am 
through  fishing  instead  of  taking  them  out  of  the  water  altogether,  and  will  do  my  fishing  at  the  low  tides. 
By  this  means  the  nets  may  be  hauled  in  a  few  minutes,  and  I  will  thus  avoid  much  of  the  dampness,  cold, 
and  exposure  which  several  hours'  fishing  in  this  place  renders  unavoidable.  This  hard  work  is  rapidly 
diminishing  what  little  strength  I  have  left,  notwithstanding  the  eight  ounces  of  meat  which  I  receive  in 


THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


507 


addition  to  my  regular  ration.  Owing  to  his  extreine  weakness,  Israel's  ration  has  been  increased  eight 
ounces.  Lieutenant  Greely  is  feeling  somewhat  better  than  he  was  yesterday;  he  ate  a  few  ounces  of  bread 
and  ptMTimican  in  the  store-house  while  I  was  issuing  provisions.  Kislingbury  and  Ellis  are  in  a  very  weak 
state;  the  former  talked  in  his  sleep  one  or  two  nights  ago.  To  give  us  a  variety,  the  bear  meat  for  the 
evening  meal  was  fried  instead  of  being  boiled.  Ralston  has  been  relieved  from  cooking  in  Lieutenant 
Greely's  mess,  and  Frederick  has  been  detailed  to  replace  him.  Henry  has  been  paroled  for  the  present, 
and  the  limits  of  the  peninsula  given  him. 

Thursday,  April  17,  1884. — The  weather  was  clear  and  calm  during  the  forenoon.  In  the  evening, 
however,  we  were  visited  by  a  slight  snow-storm.  All  the  morning  we  enjoyed  a  da/.zling  sunlight,  which 
cheered  somewhat  the  many  hearts  that  are  weary  of  this  interminable  gloom  and  darkness.  Temperature 
at  9  a.  m.,  + 16.0  [—8.9°  C.J,  and  at  7  j).  m.,  —5.0  [—20.6°  C.].  Owing  to  indications  of  a  storm  in  the 
sound,  the  hunters  did  not  go  out  to  the  open  water.  Frederick  hauled  the  nets  for  me  ot  both  the  low  and 
high  tides  to-day,  and  brought  in  forty-two  pounds  of  shrimps.  I  returned  home  late  last  evening  in  an 
exhausted  condition,  and  today  I  have  been  scarcely  able  to  move  about. 

Whisler  placed  two  more  windows  in  the  boat  forming  our  roof,  which  considerably  improves  the 
facilities  for  light.  Almost  every  one  appears  to  have  been  benefited  by  the  return  of  the  glorious  sunlight 
which  now  penetrates  our  miserable  habitation.  I  overhauled  the  effects  which  belonged  to  Rice  and 
Jewell,  and  placed  them  in  shape  for  transportation  to  their  friends.  Everything  belonging  to  the  former 
was  turned  over  to  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  myself  as  his  representatives.  In  deference  to  the  wish  of 
Dr.  Pavy,  Lieutenant  Greely  directed  me  to  take  charge  of  all  notes,  journals,  or  writing  belonging  to  Rice, 
and  to  carefully  seal  them.  The  blubber  stripped  from  the  seal  shot  by  Long  on  Sunday  last  weighs  forty 
pounds. 

Friday,  April  18,  1884. — A  terrific  snow  and  wind  storm  has  raged  about  us  all  day.     Temperature  at 


7  a.  m.,  — 1.5  [— 18.6°  C] ;  at,  1 1 


, -f  12.0  [  —  11.1°  C.j,  and  at  7  p.  m.,  —3.0  [  —  19,4°  C.].    I  weighed 


the  seal  this  morning,  and  found  the  net  weight  of  the  animal  to  be  seventy-eight  pounds.  This  includes 
the  blubber.  I  caught  eighteen  pounds  of  shrimps.  Of  these  animals  we  now  have  on  hand  aI)out  one 
hundred  pounds.  Jens  is  making  a  small  sledge  to  support  the  screen  which  he  will  find  necessary  to  use 
while  hunting  the  seal.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  myself  sealed  the  note  books  which  belonged  to  Rice, 
and,  by  Lieutenant  Greely's  direction,  I  assumed  charge  of  them. 

The  light  admitted  through  the  canvas  on  the  boat  is  not  yet  sufficient  to  enable  us  to  read  at  all  hours 
without  the  aid  of  artificial  light.  The  melting  of  the  frost  from  the  roof  renders  our  condition  positively 
wretched.  Our  bags  are  covered  with  ice,  and  our  clothing  is  thoroughly  saturated  with  the  moisture  thus 
I)roduced.  The  "  moonshine,"  or  diluted  alcohol,  which  is  still  issued,  has  had  a  very  salutary  effect  on  all 
the  men.  Every  one  appears  better  to-day  except  Biederbick  and  Whisler.  The  former  did  not  get  up  on 
account  of  weakness;  he  cannot  eat  the  shrimps*  any  longer.  Whisler  is  failing  rapidly  in  strength,  and  he 
converses  but  little  now.  I  am  feeling  very  weak,  and  have  been  without  ambition  since  the  trip  to  the 
shrimping  grounds  this  morning.  Lieutenant  Greely  again  visited  the  commissary  store-house  for  a  small 
quantity  of  pemmican,  which  his  condition  justified  him  in  taking.  He  told  me  that  Ralston  was  relieved 
from  cooking  on  account  of  appropriating  to  his  own  use  that  which  belonged  to  others. 

Saturday,  April  ig,  1884. — Cloudy  weather,  light  winds  from  the  west  prevail.  A  heavy  precipitation 
of  frost  has  done  much  to  obscure  the  sky  to-day;  temperature  at  12.30  a.  m.,  —17.0  [  —  27.2°  C.];  at  8 
a.  m,,  +5.0  [—15.0°  C],  and  at  3  p.  m  ,  +3.5  [—15.8"  C.j.  The  barometer  is  high  and  steady.  Long 
did  not  go  out  to  the  open  water  to-day,  but  Jens,  however,  was  there  as  usual.  He  reports  having  seen  a 
sell  and  one  dovekie.  Gardiner  related  to  me  to-day  the  disgusting  details  of  the  "liglit-fingered"  opera- 
tions of  Ralston,  while  the  latter  was  acting  in  the  capacity  of  cook  a  few  days  ago;  also  further  facts  rela- 
tive to  his  duplicity  while  at  Conger.  In  view  of  the  fact  that  several  members  of  the  expedition,  myself 
included,  are  of  the  opinion  that  Lieutenant  Greely's  strength  should  be  maintained,  he  again  directed  that 
another  small  issue  of  pemmican  be  made  him. 


*  In  speakini;  of  the  minute  Crustacea  caught  in  great  quantities  at  this  place,  I  have  almost  invarialily  spoken  of  them  a.s 
shrimps.  This  designation,  however,  is  not  strictly  correct,  though  in  some  respects,  especially  in  action,  they  closely  resemble 
the  shrimps  in  southern  waters.  The  small  Crustacea  mentioned  in  this  journal  were  from  one-eighth  to  one-half  of  an  inch  in 
length,  consisting  of  about  four-fifths  shell  and  one-lifth  meat,  and  about  seven  hundred  of  them  were  required  to  weigh  an  ounce 
Among  the  whalers  of  the  arctic  regions  they  are  popularly  known  a-s  "  sand-neas"  and  "  sea-lice," — D.  I..  U 


\ 


> 


508 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEIHTIOK. 


Ellis  is  worse,  much  worse;  he  could  not  eat  his  breakfast  of  shrimps  owing  to  nausea  which  their 
appearance  produced  in  him.  His  days  of  life  are  doubdess  very  few.  Biederbick,  the  faithful  hospital 
steward,  is  better.  Whisler  broke  down  utterly  to-day.  He  says  he  can  do  nothing  more.  The  fact  is,  we 
are  all  very  weak,  and  it  is  difhcult  to  find  men  enough  to  carry  out  the  necessary  routine  of  daily  work.  I 
hauled  eighteen  pounds  of  shrimpr..  The  raven  had  visited  the  grounds  some  time  during  the  day,  and 
judging  from  his  tracks  and  the  number  of  shrimp  scattered  about  on  the  ice  he  must  have  made  a 
hearty  meal  off  the  refuse.  The  issuing  of  the  fresh  meat  is  the  greatest  difficulty  that  1  have  to  contend 
with;  it  is  firmly  frozen  and  h".^  to  be  cut  with  a  handsaw.  My  weak  state  renders  this  duty  both  irksome 
and  trying,  and  I  often  feel  like  giving  it  up  in  despair;  but  thoughts  of  the  future,  which  may  yet  have 
something  bright  in  store  for  us,  nerves  me  to  the  task,  and  by  sheer  force  of  will  alone  I  continue  the  work. 
The  frost  and  ice  which  during  the  winter  formed  in  the  boat  and  all  other  portions  of  the  roof  is  now 
thawing  rapidly,  and  almost  everything  is  saturated  with  the  dripping  moisture.  We  are  removing  this  ice 
by  hand  as  fast  as  possible.  We  now  have  a  sufficient  quantity  of  shrimps  on  hand  to  admit  of  everybody 
having  all  they  may  desire.  These  shrimps  possess  very  litde  nutriment,  and  if  taken  in  large  quantities  they 
have  a  tendency  to  nauseate. 

Suttitay,  April  20,  1884. — The  barometer  has  been  falling  steadily  all  day;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  — i.o 
[  —  18.3°  C.];at  II  a.  m.,  +2.0  [—16.70  C],  and  at  3  p.  m.,  —0.5  [  — iS.i'C.].  During  the  morning  the 
weather  was  cloudy  and  stormy,  but  towards  evening  the  sky  cleared  beautifully,  and  the  radiant  sun  ap- 
peared At  the  open  water  this  morning  Long  and  Jens  saw  nothing  but  one  seal.  I  caught  fifteen 
pounds  of  shrimps,  Ellis  was  very  weak  to-day,  and  his  condition  was  rendered  doubly  miserable  by  an 
attack  of  flux. 

A  breakfast  of  hard  bread  and  tallow  was  greatly  relished  by  every  one,  but  the  dinner  was  the  chief 
event  of  the  entire  winter.  The  stew  for  this  meal  was  composed  of  the  trimmings  of  the  bear  and  the  seal 
heads;  their  hearts,  lungs,  kidneys,  &c.,  and  a  large  quantity  of  the  blood  which  had  flowed  from  the  bear 
wlien  he  fell  dyin^on  the  floe,  Every  ounce  of  this  blood  had  been  chopped  from  the  ice  and  saved  for 
this  purpose.  It  enriched  the  stew  beyond  the  conception  of  any  one  unacquainted  with  its  use;  it  supplied 
it  with  a  thick,  delicious  gravy,  and  imparted  a  delicacy  of  flavor  which  proclaimed  it  superior  to  anything 
that  we  have  eaten  for  months.  Israel's  extra  ration  of  eight  ounces  of  meat  was  discontinued  to-day. 
Dating  from  to-morrow  morning  our  regular  daily  ration  will  be  ten  ounces  instead  of  sixteen,  as  it  is  at 
jjresent.  Dr.  Pavy  reported  to  Lieutenant  Greely  that  the  extra  meat  issued  to  the  hunters  was  almost 
wholly  without  bone.  Think  of  the  absurdity  of  issuing  bones  to  the  men  who  are  striving  with  all  their 
might  to  put  food  in  our  mouths!     From  this  date  the  midnight  sun  cjin  be  seen  from  Camp  Clay. 

Monday,  April  21,  1884. — Cloudy  and  stormy  weather,  with  puffs  of  wind  from  the  west;  temperature 
at  7  a.  m.,  — i.o  [—18.3°  C.];  at  11  a,  m.,  -|-i!o.3  [  —  12.1°  C,|,  and  at  5  p,  m.,  —2.0  [—18.9°  C.j.  I  was 
taken  suddenly  ill  last  night,  and  in  consccjuence  of  subsequent  exposure  I  was  thoroughly  chilled.  On  the 
recommendation  of  Dr.  Pavy,  I  did  not  go  to  the  fishery  to  day.  Long  and  Jens  also  remained  in  and 
secured  a  few  hours  of  much  needed  rest.  Long  was  the  only  man  strong  enough  to  do  the  outside  work 
to  day.  He  is  a  wonderful  fellow,  always  jolly  and  good  natured;  and  he  is  now  doing  all  in  his  power  to 
improve  the  condition  of  those  who,  in  a  measure,  are  dependent  on  his  skill  as  a  hunter.  Lieutenant  Greely 
is  recovering  slowly;  he  directed  that  another  small  issue  of  bread  and  pemmican  be  made  him.  Schneider 
was  accused  of  some  irrt.gularity  in  the  distribution  of  food  to  those  in  the  mess  for  which  he  is  cook,  and 
was  taken  to  task  by  Lieutenant  Greely,  who  admonished  him  that  a  repetition  of  this  offense  would  be  the 
signal  for  the  adoption  of  severe  measures.  One  of  our  stew-pans  has  been  burned  so  badly  that  it  is  prac- 
tically useless.  Jens,  the  happy,  good-natured  little  fellow,  whom  everybody  loves,  and  who  is  in  excellent 
S])irits,  and  full  of  hope  for  the  future,  says:  "Me  all  same  white  man."  Meaning,  I  suppose,  that  he  is 
willing  to  share  and  suffer  alike  with  us.     He  is  a  noble,  faithful  fellow. 

Ti'esday,  April  22,  1884. — Cloudy  and  stormy  weather;  temperature  at  5  a.  m.,  4-S-o  ["'S-o"  C.]; 
at  II  a.  m.,  -j-io.o  [  —  12.2°  C],  and  at  8  p.  m.,  +  15.6  [  —  9.1°  C],  During  the  evening  the  storm  increased 
to  a  moderate  gale.  Bender  and  Whisler  tore  out  the  lining  of  the  boat  this  morning,  with  the  view  of  using 
it  for  fuel.  \\e  burned  the  last  of  the  stearine  in  cooking  the  evening  meal,  and  to-morrow  the  use  of  wood 
for  fuel  will  be  resumed.  Notwithstanding  the  storm,  Long  and  Jens  made  their  usual  tramp  to  the  edge  of 
the  ice.  The  former  space  of  open  water  has  been  entirely  covered  by  debris  ice  since  yesterday,  and  the 
present  opportunities  for  taking  game  are  thus  cut  off  The  shrimps  had  completely  stripped  the  nets  of 
bait,  and  in  consequence  I  caught  only  six  pounds,     fo-morrow  I  intend  to  work  the  evening  tide. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDIIION. 


509 


On  account  of  the  accusations  made  against  him  yesterday,  Schneider  refused  to  cook  the  meal  this 
evening.  Lieutenant  Greely  thereupon  insisted  on  doing  it  for  him,  with  the  view  of  setting  an  example, 
but  he  was  soon  relieved  by  Jens.  Seven  and  one-half  ounces  of  bacon  and  one  ounce  of  bread  made  a 
welcome  change  for  us.  Dr.  Pavy  and  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  recommend  that  our  ration  be  increased 
from  ten  ounces  to  sixteen  ounces  daily.  Lieutenant  Greely  objected,  on  tcnal)le  grounds,  to  this  change, 
but  compromised  by  authorizing  an  issue  of  twelve  ounces  daily.  At  this  rate  our  provisions  will  last  but 
twenty  days  only.  With  this  stormy  weather  to  contend  against,  and  the  end  of  our  provisions  not  far  off, 
the  future  is  certainly  dark  and  cheerless.  Dr.  Pavy  further  recommended  that  my  extra  allowance  should 
be  discontinued,  and  that  all  who  are  strong  enough  should  assist  in  the  shrimping  without  ailditional  rations, 
thus  saving  eight  ounces  of  meat  daily.  In  this,  after  some  discussion,  Lieutenant  Greely  acquiesced.  To 
the  credit  of  my  comrades,  I  will  say  that  several  of  them  offered  to  make  good  this  amount  from  their  own 
scanty  rations  if  I  would  continue  to  do  the  shrimping.  This  of  course,  in  justice  to  all,  I  could  not  accept. 
While  strength  remains  I  will  work  for  the  best  interests  of  the  party;  and  when  I  can  do  no  more,  I  trust 
and  hope  that  some  one  will  be  found  with  strength  enough  to  fill  my  place. 

Lieutenant  Greely  is  feeling  no  better,  and  he  again  ordered  a  slight  increase  to  his  ration.  All  others, 
except  Israel  and  Gardiner,  are  as  well  as  usual.  I  issued  to  the  mess  the  contents  of  the  stomach  of  the 
seal  recently  shot.  This  perhaps  would  be  rather  trying  to  persons  blessed  (?)  with  fastidious  tastes,  but 
we  would  be  more  than  happy  if  we  could  have  even  all  of  this  that  we  desire.  We  have  discarded  the  evening 
readings  for  the  present,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  light  and  want  of  interest.  Our  conversation  flags  for 
want  of  topics,  and  by  7  p.  m.  all  are  asleep.  Perhaps  it  is  better  for  us  that  our  troubles  are  drowned  in 
sleep,  so  that  the  full  extent  of  our  misery  may  not  at  all  times  be  apparent.  Lieutenant  Greely  gave  me 
directions  as  to  the  final  disposition  of  his  effects  in  the  event  of  his  death.  I  also  asked  as  a  favor  that 
my  personal  effects  be  disposed  of  in  accordance  with  the  written  direction  contained  on  the  fly-leaf  of  this 
note-book.     I  advised  that  the  ration  of  Long  and  Jens  be  increased  to  twenty-four  ounces. 

IVciliiesiiiiy,  April 2^,  1884. — A  clear,  bright,  and  beautiful  day;  light  west  wind;  temperature  at  5  a.  in., 
-I-5.0  [ — 20.6°  C],  and  at  7  p.m.,  +2.0  [ — 16. 7°  C.].  In  the  sun  the  thermometer  indicated  -I-45.0 
[-f-7.2°  C.].  Whisler  made  a  trap-door  in  the  roof  (boat)  above  the  cooking-lamp,  which  allows  a  free  exit 
for  the  smoke.  Bender  manufactured  another  stove,  and  the  use  of  wood  to  cook  our  meals  has  been 
resumed.  The  meat  ration  of  Gardiner  and  Israel  was  increased  four  ounces  each.  Long  and  Jens  did 
not  see  any  game  to-day.  The  absence  of  it  may  be  accounted  for  from  the  fact  that  there  is  very  little 
open  water  now.  I  placed  the  nets  in  the  water  before  dinner,  and  in  the  evening  went  down  and  hauled 
thirty  pounds  of  shrimps.  I  staggered  over  to  the  point  of  land  west  of  camp  in  search  of  game,  but  found 
nothing — not  even  a  track  or  trace. 

This  life  is  growing  almost  unbearable — it  is  horrible !  I  am  afraid  that  we  will  yet  all  go  mad.  ^V'hat 
keeps  us  up  ?  Why  do  we  retain  our  sanity  of  mind  ?  I  cannot  tell.  One  woi  1  su|)pose  that  an  existence 
not  half  so  miserable  as  this  would  be  sufficient  to  drive  one  to  insanity  and  suicide.  In  my  case  the 
thoughts  of  home,  a  bright  future,  the  many  enjoyments  of  life,  and  a  feeling  of  responsibility  for  the  poor 
fellows,  who,  to  a  certain  extent,  look  to  me  to  provide  them  with  food,  do  more  to  inspire  me  to  work  and 
to  fight  the  end  than  anything  else.  Whenever  I  think  of  faltering  in  my  duty  visions  of  the  faces  of  my 
family  and  friends  appear  to  rise  up  before  me  as  a  reproach  to  my  weakness,  and  thus  all  my  thoughts  of 
giving  up  are  dispelled. 

Thursday,  April  2\,  1884. — A  clear  and  beautiful  day;  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  6  a.  m., 
zero  [  — I7.8°C.];  at  3  p.  m.,  +3'8  [  — is.7°C.j.  Barometer  stationary.  Doctor  Pavy  went  down  to  the 
fishery  at  4  a.  m.  and  put  in  the  nets,  in  order  that  the  shrimps  might  collect  on  the  baits.  I  went  down 
immediately  after  breakfast,  finding  that  Pavy  had  fastened  the  ropes  so  that  as  the  tide  rose  the  nets  were 
lifted  and  held  suspended,  consequently  nothing  was  found  in  them.  The  shrimps  will  attack  the  baits 
only  when  they  rest  on  the  bottom.  He  had  also  filled  the  nets  with  rocks  and  old  discanled  baits,  and 
even  had  they  rested  on  the  bottom  of  the  sea  there  was  nothing  in  them  to  attract  the  shrimps.  When 
asked  why  he  had  been  so  careless,  he  replied,  "  Oh !  I  was  thinking  of  something  else."  Schneider  made 
a  trip  to  the  nets  at  i  p.  m.  and  did  fairly  well,  having  caught  eight  pounds.  He  lost  two  pounds  by  falling 
down,  and  he  also  lost  my  large  ladle  with  which  I  remove  the  shrimp  from  the  nets.  At  5  p.  m.  I  made 
another  trip,  returning  at  7.30  with  twelve  pounds.  Long  and  Jens  saw  an  Oosuk  seal  while  hunting  to-day, 
but  they  could  not  approach  sufficiently  near  to  get  a  shot.  They  report  that  three  "  blow-holes  "  made  by 
seals  were  observed  during  their  wanderings  about  the  floe. 


I 


610 


THP]  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Lieutenants  Greely  and  Kislingbury  are  feeling  much  worse  than  usual.  The  former  was  again  issued 
a  few  ounces  of  pemmican.  Israel  and  Gardiner,  poor  fellows,  with  characteristic  unselfishness,  did  not  wish 
to  take  the  extra  four  ounces  of  meat  which  had  been  ordered  for  them,  but  desired,  though  not  permitted, 
that  it  be  turned  over  to  me  so  that  my  strength  might  be  maintained  while  acting  as  shrimi)er.  Schneider 
has  been  relieved  from  his  duties  as  cook,  and  Bender  has  been  detailed  in  his  place.  The  former  will  assist 
nie  to  catch  shrimps. 

Friday,  April  25,  1884. — Stormy  and  disagreeable  weather;  a  brisk  westerly  wind  caused  considerable 
drift.  Temperature  at  7  a.  m., +9.0  [— i2.8°j;  at  9  a.m.,  +10.5  [—11.9°  C.J.  The  barometer  has  been 
falling  since  morning.  In  consequence  of  the  wretched  weather,  the  hunters  did  not  venture  out.  Jens, 
however,  occupied  his  siiare  time  in  the  construction  of  a  screen  to  be  used  in  hunting  seals.  Schneider 
caught  ten  pounds  of  shrimps  this  morning.  He  returned  completely  exhausted,  and  at  once  gave  up.  He 
says  that  his  strength  is  depleted,  and  that  he  can  do  nothing  more  for  the  party.  I  went  down  shortly 
afterwards,  and  discovered  that  he  had  left  the  net  suspended  midway  in  the  water,  consequently  I  secured 
only  a  few  stragglers.  I  went  down  again  after  dinner,  this  time  taking  sixteen  pounds.  My  legs  are  very 
weak,  sore,  and  considerably  swollen.  The  extra  eight  ounces  of  meat  which  I  had  been  receiving,  to  com- 
pensate for  my  severe  labors  as  shrimper,  and  which  were  ordered  discontinued  a  few  days  ago,  have  been 
returned  to  me  again.  By  making  three  trips  daily  to  the  fishery,  I  shall  endeavor  to  get  all  the  shrimps 
necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  the  party.     I  shot  two  ptarmigan  on  Cemetery  Ridge  this  morning. 

Gardiner  is  not  feeling  nearly  so  well  as  he  felt  yesterday,  notwithstanding  the  recent  improvement  in 
his  diet.  The  spring  tides  have  carried  out  a  great  deal  of  ice  during  last  night,  and  the  largest  expanse  of 
water  since  last  autumn  is  now  to  be  seen  in  Smith  Sound,  'ly  actual  count,  it  requires  thirteen  hundred 
shrimps  to  fill  the  half-gill  measure.    Seven  hundred  weigh  one  ounce. 

Saturday,  April  2'^,  1884. — Cloudy  weather  with  light  snow  at  intervals;  brisk  westerly  winds  have 
prevailed,  and  considerable  drift  has  been  experienced  in  consequence.  I  took  ten  pounds  of  shrimps  at  2.30 
a.  m.,  and  at  noon  went  down  again,  but  owing  to  the  closing  of  the  tidal  crack  by  high  water  I  was  too 
late  to  haul  my  nets.  Frederick  volunteered  to  go  down  for  me  at  6  p.  m.,  and  he  returned  with  seven 
pounds.  I  am  having  a  new  net  made  which  I  think  will  be  superior  to  anything  now  in  use  at  the  fishery. 
Every  one,  except  Lieutenant  Greely,  is  feeling  better  to-day.  An  extra  ration  was  once  more  ordered  for 
him.  Long  and  Jens  saw  a  large  seal  drifting  with  the  tide  on  a  pan  of  ice,  but  the  animal  was  far  beyond 
the  reach  of  their  rifles.  They  say  the  wind  was  much  too  high  to-day,  and  that  few  seals  were  seen.  The 
present  indications  are  that  our  food  will  soon  be  a  matter  of  the  past.  We  dwell  almost  continually  on  the 
subject  in  our  conversation.  But  it  is  no  wonder  that  it  is  so,  for  this  is  a  matter  of  vital  importance  to  us 
just  now.  Our  barometer  has  been  rising  rapidly  since  morning;  temperature  at  5  a.  m.,  -f  7.0  [—13.9°  C.] ; 
at    II  a.  m.,  +10.0  [  —  12,2°  C],  and  at  7  p.  m.,  —2.0  [—18.9°  C.]. 

Sunday,  April  ?7,  1884. — Clear  weather;  light  west  winds,  and  the  temperature  at  4  a.  m.,  +  i.o 
[  —  17.2°  C.J;  at  II  a.  m.,  +14.5  [—97°  C.J.  The  snow  thawed  perceptibly  on  the  dark  surface  of  the  boat 
affording  a  southern  exposure.  The  barometer  has  taken  a  downward  tendency  to-day.  I  went  to  the  fishery 
at  4  a.  m.,  and  by  nine  o'clock  I  had  caught  twenty-two  pounds  of  shrimps.  In  the  evening  after  four  hours' 
work  I  brought  in  fifteen  pounds  more.  I  now  work  both  low  tides,  and  remain  at  the  fishery  as  long  as  the 
tiilal  crack  will  permit  me  to  haul  the  nets.  The  new  net  and  line  were  completed  to-day  by  Schneider  and 
Salor.  The  invalids  all  appear  to  be  improving  except  Lieutenant  Greely.  Jens  complains  of  weakness  in  his 
legs.  Lieutenant  Greely  has  directed  that  the  ration  of  the  hunters  be  increased  four  ounces  each.  The  two 
faithful  fellows  went  out  at  an  early  hour  this  morning  and  did  not  return  until  late  to-night.  Twelve  white 
whales  were  seen  by  them,  and  Jens  shot  at  a  seal,  but  without  effect.  Henry  made  the  issue  of  diluted  alcohol 
without  authority  to-day,  and  while  doing  so  he  stole  enough  of  the  precious  fluid  to  make  himself  helplessly 
and  disgustingly  drunk.  He  is  a  born  thief;  a  man  without  conscience,  principle,  or  heart— in  short,  a  perfect 
fiend.  Doctor  Pavy  recommends  the  issue  of  four  ounces  of  bacon  and  the  same  amount  of  pemmican  on 
alternate  days,  as  the  best  means  of  improving  certain  conditions  of  the  system.  Long  saw  two  snow-buntings 
to-day. 

Jens,  who  is  a  faithful  and  indefatigable  worker,  and  who  is  gready  reduced  in  strength,  said  in  his  honest, 
pathetic  way,  "  Flskimo  no  good."  We  are  struggling  bravely  for  life — how  bravely  the  world  will  probably 
never  know,  as  none  are  likely  to  live  to  tell  the  tale  of  out  trials  and  sufferings.  Words  written  in  these 
journals  are  inadequate  to  express  or  describe  the  horrors  of  our  situation,  and  I  doubt  if  any  intellect  is  equal 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


511 


to  a  full  comprehension  of  our  circumstances  unless  having  passed  through  a  similar  experience.  At  the 
l)resent  time,  with  the  exception  of  the  one  who  is  branded  with  the  tide  of  thief,  all  are  doing  their  best  to 
prolong  life  and  to  live  harmoniously  together. 

Monday,  April  28,  1884. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather,  and  at  times  very  foggy;  temperature  at  4  a.  m., 
—4.0  [  —  20.0°  C.];  at  7  a.m.  +5.3  [—14.8°  C.];  at  12  m.,  +21.0  [— d.ioC.];  at  2  p.  m.,  +8.0  [—  13.3°  C), 
and  at  8  p.  m.  it  stood  at  zero  [  —  17.8°  C.J.  My  tour  at  the  fishery,  from  5  a.  m.  to  9.30  a.  ni.,  resulted  in 
taking  twenty-five  pounds  of  shrimps.  I  also  caught  a  large  quantity  of  marine  vegetation  with  the  long  pole 
which  had  been  made  for  that  purpose.  Frederick  went  down  in  the  evening  and  brought  back  ten  pounds 
of  shrimps.  The  morning's  fishing  had  left  me  so  weak  that  I  wa.s  utterly  incapable  of  making  the  exertion 
necessary  for  another  trip  down  there  to-day,  so  Frederick  kindly  volunteered  to  take  my  place. 

Biederbick  and  Israel  are  feeling  much  worse  than  usual;  the  former  fainted  away  this  evening  in  con- 
sequence of  a  painful  and  abnormal  state  of  his  bowels.  The  same  conditions  exist  with  .ill,  and  it  is  fast 
reducing  our  vitality.  Lieutenant  Greely  is  suffering  with  heart  trouble.  He  was  provided  with  a  small 
i.ssue  of  pemmican  in  addition  to  his  regular  ration.  Gardiner  is  feeling  better,  and  Jens  is  in  excellent  spirits. 
Lieutenant  Greely  has  promised  the  latter  that  he  will  give  him  a  new  kayak  when  we  return  to  Proven ; 
Israel  will  give  him  a  watch;  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  Biederbick  are  to  present  him  with  a  boat,  and 
many  other  similar  assurances  have  been  made  him,  and  he  consequently  is  in  a  very  happy  state  of  mind. 
The  hunters  report  that  the  pack  has  moved  in  against  the  fast  ice,  and  that  the  water-space  about  which 
they  hunted  is  closed.  The  ration  of  diluted  alcohol  or  "  moonshine,"  which  has  been  issued  daily,  has  been 
taken  from  Henry.  He  has  been  detailed  to  carry  out  and  empty  the  tub  every  morning  and  night,  and  to 
perform  as  a  prisoner  other  menial  duties. 

Tuesday,  April  29,  1884. — A  clear,  beautiful  day;  temiierature  at  7  a.  m.,  +6.0  1  —  14.4°  t!.];  at  10 
a.  m.,  +9.0  [  —  12.8°  C],  and  at  9  p.  m.,  +4.0  [  —  15.6°  C.]. 

By  making  two  trips  to  the  fishery  I  succeeded  in  t.iking  thirty  pounds  of  shrimps.  Long  returned  alone 
from  hunting  at  2.30  p.  m.,  with  the  sad  and  dispiriting  report,  "Jens  is  dead."  The  faithful  fellow  had  seen 
a  large  seal  on  a  drifting  pan  of  ice  which  was  separated  from  him  by  several  intervening  lanes  of  water.  In 
transporting  his  kayak  over  a  projecting  tongue  of  ice  by  pushing  it  ahead  of  him,  a  hole  was  probably  cut 
through  the  thin  seal-skin  covering  by  the  sharp  ice  with  which  it  came  in  contact.  On  re-embarking  m 
the  kayak  the  water  probably  rushed  in  through  the  aperture,  and  he  was  soon  rendered  powerless  by  its  icy 
coldness.  Long  says  that  he  saw  Jens  paddling  very  rapidly,  and  that  while  wondering  why  this  unusual 
effort  was  being  made,  he  saw  the  litUe  fellow  spring  upright  and  then  fall  forward  without  uttering  a  single 
cry  for  assistance.     His  body  floated  for  some  time,  and  then  sank  slowly  from  sight  forever. 

While  endeavoring  to  rescue  the  body  of  his  dead  companion  Long  neariy  lost  his  own  life.  He  then 
tried  to  save  the  kayak  which  w.is  drifting  bottom  up,  but  in  this  also  failed.  The  Springfield  rifle — our  best 
weapon — was  lost.  This  is  indeed  a  sad  blow  to  us,  and  one  I  fear  that  may  prove  fatal  to  the  safety  of  the 
party.  Without  the  aid  of  the  kayak  the  seals  that  may  be  killed  cannot  be  secured  unless  under  very 
favorable  conditions  of  wind  and  tide.  After  this  sad  occurrence  Long  saw  several  seals  in  the  water  within 
easy  range,  but  as  he  had  no  means  of  bringing  them  to  land  after  they  were  killed,  he  returned  home  with- 
out firing  a  shot.  Hereafter,  Frederick  will  hunt  during  the  night,  and  in  the  day-time  Long  will  scour  the 
country  for  game.  A  terrific  gale  from  the  south  burst  on  us  at  7  p.  m.,  and  will  probably  be  the  means  of 
breaking  the  straits  more  thoroughly  than  before. 

Wednesday,  April  -xp,  1884. — This  has  been  a  truly  fine  day.  The  gale  subsided  at  i.  a.  m.,  and  by  9 
o'clock  the  sky  had  cleared  to  admit  the  radient  face  of  old  Sol.  A  light  breeze  from  the  west  did  not 
detract  fiom  the  enjoyable  sun  bath  which  many  availed  themselves  of.  Temperature  at  7  a.m.,  +2.0 
[—16.7°  C.];  at  2  p.  m.,  +12.0  [—11.1°  C.];  and  at  9  p.m.,  +7.0  [—13.9°  C.]. 

Long  tramped  along  the  edge  of  the  floe  at  the  open  water,  reaching  Payer  Harbor.  He  reports  hav- 
"  ing  seen  several  "  blow-holes "  in  the  ice,  and  bear  tracks  that  were  recently  made.  I  have  devised  and 
constructed  a  rake  of  iron  barrel  hoops,  with  which  I  made  quite  a  successful  haul  of  sea-weed  and  vegeta- 
tion at  the  fishery.  If  we  are  not  fortunate  enough  to  secure  more  game,  it  is  quite  possilile  that  we  may 
eke  out  a  miserable  existence  on  the  shrimps  and  this  vegetation  until  the  arrival  of  the  birds  next  month. 
I  hauled  thirty-two  pounds  of  shrimps  by  making  two  trips  to  the  nets  to-day.  Lieutenant  Greely  is  feeling 
somewhat  better;  another  slight  addition  to  his  rations  was  made  in  consideration  of  his  almost  depleted 
strength.     He  informs  me  that  a  letter  which  he  has  written  and  placed  between  the  leaves  of  his  journal 


512 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


directs  itie  to  assume  command  of  the  expedition  in  the  event  of  liis  deatli.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury's 
mind  is  in  such  a  feeble  state  that  he  is  wholly  incapacitated  to  assume  the  responsibilities  of  the  leadership 
of  this  pai  , .  In  the  event  of  my  death,  Ralston,  Gardiner,  Frederick,  and  Long  will  follow  as  commanders 
in  tlie  order  named.  Every  one  except  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  ap|)ears  to  be  holding  firmly  to  life;  he  is 
rapidly  losing  strength,  and  his  mind  also  is  on  the  decline.  Turf,  roots  and  the  leaves  of  saxifrage  are  being 
used  quite  extensively  in  connection  with  our  other  fuel,  and  is  found  to  be  a  great  advantage  in  extending 
our  supply  of  wood.  Last  evening  I  suggested  that  the  bow  or  stern  of  the  whale-boat,  now  used  as  a  roof 
to  our  hut,  be  cut  off  and  converted  into  a  skiff  for  use  by  the  hunters  at  the  open  water.  'J'he  end  which 
was  cut  could  be  made  water-tight  by  the  heavy  painted  canvas  in  our  jiossession.  This,  however,  was 
deemed  impracticable  by  some,  and  the  matter  was  allowed  to  drop.     Snow  began  falling  at  6  p.  m. 

T/iiirsdiiy,  May  i,  1S84. — Snow  has  been  falling  slowly  and  steadily  all  day;  temperature  at  7  a.m., 
•4-9  o  [—12.8°  C.];  at  r  p.  m., -f  lo.o  [  — 12.2°  C.];  and  at  11  p.  m., -|- 1.0  [—17.2°  C.].  With  the  exception 
of  Lieutenants  Greely  and  Kislingbury,  all  say  that  they  are  feeling  better  to-day.  The  last  of  the  lime- 
juice  pemmican  was  used  yesterday  ;  the  remainder  of  the  English  pemmican  was  issued  to-day,  and  to-mor- 
row the  last  crumb  of  our  bread  will  be  given  out  to  the  starving  party. 

This  suspense  is  horrible!  We  are  anxious  that  the  end — either  one  way  or  the  other — should  come 
soon.  Will  this  last  sad  blow — the  deatli  of  Jens — which  has  robbed  us  of  the  means  of  securing  game, 
prove  fatal  to  us  ?  Something  tells  me  it  will  not,  although  I  can  give  no  reason  for  such  impressions. 
After  three  years  of  incessant  toil  and  arduous  experiences  in  these  regions,  how  can  we  die  this  horrible 
death  by  starvation  without  first  telling  the  world  of  the  results  of  our  really  magnificent  work,  and  enjoy 
for  a  brief  period  the  fruits  of  our  dearly-bought  success  ? 

Provisions  for  only  nine  days  remain  to  us.  We  can  scarcely  realize  that  we  are  so  near  our  end,  and 
all  sorts  of  topics  and  plans  for  the  future  are  being  discussed.  The  subject  of  food,  which  of  all  others  is 
nearer  the  hearts  of  our  men,  of  course  excites  the  most  interest.  Were  it  possible  to  obtain  the  shrimps 
and  sea  vegetation  in  large  ([uantities,  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  we  could  live  yet  for  many  weeks.  But  my 
shrimp  bait  is  nearly  exhausted,  and  my  strength  is  going  so  fiist,  that  to  haul  the  heavy  iron  rake  much 
longer  for  the  vegetation  will  be  an  impossibility.  It  does  not  seem  that  I  could  supply  these  articles  to 
eighteen  persons  for  more  than  a  week  longer  with  my  failing  strength.  As  there  is  but  little  nutriment  in 
either  of  these  articles,  an  immense  quantity  will  be  required  to  sustain  life. 

On  returning  from  hunting  to-day,  Frederick  brought  in  encouraging  reports  regarding  seal-holes  which 
he  found  in  the  ice  near  Beebe  Point.  After  fishing  for  six  hours  this  morning,  I  brought  in  twenty-three 
pounds  of  shrimps,  and  six  pounds  of  vegetation.  I  made  another  trip  during  the  evening,  but  this  time 
caught  only  two  pounds  of  shrimps.  When  I  retired  at  1 1.30  p.  m.,  on  my  return  from  this  last  trip,  I  was  so 
prostrated  from  my  exertions  that  I  feared  I  could  never  again  make  another. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury's  mind  is  .ilmost  completely  gone.  Poor  fellow !  it  is  only  a  few  days  ago  that 
he  spoke  so  hopefully  of  the  future,  and  the  happiness  he  anticipated  in  meeting  his  young  sons  on  his  return. 
Yesterday  I  saw  him  lying  on  the  small  sledge  outside  weeping  like  a  child ;  turning  to  me  he  said  with  a 
half-smothered  groan  :  "It  is  hopeless;  I  cannot  fight  this  starvation  longer;  I  am  doomed  to  die  here!" 
Lieutenant  Greely  asked  the  individual  opinion  of  every  man  with  reference  to  the  extension  of  our  provisions 
beyond  the  date  already  agreed  upon.     The  majority  were  in  favor  of  reducing  them  to  the  minimum. 

Friday,  May  2,  1884. — Snow  fell  all  last  night  and  until  2  p.  m.  to-day.  After  the  sky  had  cleared 
sufficiently  to  allow  the  hunters  to  discern  game  at  a  distance,  Frederick  went  out  towards  the  open  water. 
Long  was  out  for  a  short  time  early  this  morning,  but  he  saw  nothing.  Temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  -f-2.0 
[—16.7°  C],  and  at  n  a.  m.,  +9.0  [—12.8°  C.].  Salor  has  relieved  Bender  from  the  duties  of  cook  in  our 
mess.  The  hitter  is  again  quite  ill  from  the  eft'ects  of  lung  trouble.  I  caught  twenty-four  pounds  of  shrimps 
and  seven  of  kelp.  In  dragging  for  the  latter,  I  found  that  my  rake  w.is  much  too  heavy  for  my  strength,  so 
making  a  few  slight  alterations,  I  was  pleased  to  note  that  it  could  be  managed  with  much  less  exertion 
and  with  greater  success  than  before.  In  the  stew  last  evening  there  was  an  excess  of  salt  water,  which  so 
nauseated  nie  that  I  could  eat  no  breakfast  this  morning. 

The  future  looks  anything  but  promising,  but  I  think  that  all  are  resigned  to  their  imjiending  fate,  and 
thai  they  look  T  rward  to  death  as  a  welcome  relief  from  their  terrible  sutTerings.  The  wan,  emaciated  faces 
and  the  skeleton  limbs  of  our  poor  fellows  are  truly  a  pitiable  sight.  A  remark  which  one  of  the  men  made 
this  afternoon  conveys  a  very  good  idea  of  our  actual  condition  :  "  Our  frames,"  he  said,  "  are  much  too 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


518 


thin  and  weak  to  make  even  a  substantial  hat-rack."  Our  rations  have  been  reduced  to  eight  ounces  per 
man,  except  for  the  hunters,  the  shrimper,  Elison  and  Israel,  who  rective  something  extra.  1  discovered 
to-day  that  some  one  had  been  tampering  with  the  lock  on  the  commissaiy  store-house. 

Saturday,  May  3,  1884. — Clear  weather,  light  west  winds;  temperature  at  6  a.  m.,  zero  [—17.8°  C.]; 
at  1 1  a.  m.,  +12.0  [  —  11.1°  C.];  and  at  3  p.m.,  -|-6.o  [  — i4.4"'C.].  The  temperature  is  doubtless  very  low 
for  this  season  of  the  year,  and  we  are  therefore  impelled  to  believe  that  even  nature  is  conspiring  against 
us  in  our  trials  and  acute  sufferings.  Will  these  days  of  misery  and  wretchedness  never  end?  With  thieving 
men  totally  devoid  of  honor  among  us,  can  we  endure  this  life  much  longer?  It  seems  impossible,  for  their 
dastardly  acts  not  only  take  nourishment  from  our  bodies,  but  add  trouble  to  our  minds. 

Long  went  to  Rice  Straits  in  search  of  game.  He  did  his  work  thoroughly,  having  been  absent  from 
the  hut  for  over  fifteen  hours.  He  killed  a  small  seal  in  one  of  the  open-water  spaces  of  the  strait,  but  before 
it  could  be  reached  it  sank.  Frederick  came  in  at  i  a.  m.  and  went  out  again  at  8  o'clock.  During  the 
day  he  saw  a  flock  of  dovekies  and  no  less  than  six  seals.  He  broke  through  the  i<e  once,  wetting  his  feet. 
The  floe  about  Beebe  Point  looks  as  if  it  would  break  ui)  in  a  short  time.  Of  shrimps  to-day  I  took  twenty- 
five  pounds,  and  of  kelp  six  pounds.  I  am  now  using  the  bear's  liver  for  bait,  and  am  fairly  successful  with 
it.  During  the  next  spring  tides  I  confidently  expect  to  get  enough  kelp  to  last  us  for  ten  or  fifteen  days. 
I  shot  a  brace  of  ptarmigan  on  Cemetery  Ridge  this  morning.  I^ieutenant  Greely  is  very  ill ;  he  has  eaten 
nothing  to-day  but  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of  stew,  and  we  fear  for  the  worst.  He  remarked,  ''  I  think  that 
I  am  near  my  end."  The  saxifrage  is  doing  good  work  for  us  as  fuel.  A  large  quantity  of  it  was  gathered 
to-day  by  Henry,  who  is  much  stronger  than  any  other  person  in  the  party.  He  is  still  a  prisoner.  Whisler 
was  detected  by  Bender  this  morning  in  the  commissary  store-house.  I  was  away  at  the  shrimp  fishery  at 
the  time,  but  immediately  upon  my  return  I  was  told  about  how  Whisler  had  forced  the  lock  on  the  door, 
and  when  found  he  was  eating  ravenously  of  the  bacon.  A  large  piece  (about  two  pounds)  was  also  found 
in  the  breast  of  his  coat.  Naturally  enough,  he  is  now  penitent;  but,  in  the  performance  of  such  an  act  at 
this  critical  period,  little  or  no  sympathy  is  felt  for  him.  Several  have  openly  denounced  him  as  the  most 
abject  and  cowardly  monster  that  ever  disgraced  mankind  with  his  presence.  I  know  that  it  is  uncharitable 
to  give  way  to  such  bitter  expressions,  but  when  the  circumstances  are  so  aggravating  it  is  impossible  to 
conceal  our  true  feelings,  and  we  would  act  a  lie  were  we  to  express  ourselves  differently.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  Lieutenant  Greely  all  have  been  improving  slightly,  but  this  action  of  Whisler's  will  probably  now 
cause  a  depression  of  spirits.  I  don't  think  any  one  will  ever  be  able  to  wholly  decipher  these  notes.  They, 
being  rapidly  written  in  semi-darkness  and  under  very  trying  circumstances,  I  fear  are  illegible,  disconnected, 
and  poorly  constructed. 

•  Sunday,  May  4,  1884. — A  clear,  beautiful  day,  with  light  westerly  winds  prevailing;  temperature  at  7 
a.  m.,  -I-6.0  [  —  14.4°  C.j;  at  11  a.  m.,  +  11. o  [—11.7°  C.J;  and  at  3  p.  m.,  -|-6.o  [—14.4°  C.].  For  the 
first  time  this  year  icicles  formed  on  the  rocks  which  have  a  southern  exposure.  I  caught  thirty  pounds  of 
shrimps  and  two  pounds  of  sea-weed.  I  am  steadily  adding  to  the  collection  of  natural  history  specimens 
which  are  being  preserved  in  alcohol.  To  the  relief  and  satisfaction  of  all.  Lieutenant  Greely  is  feeling  much 
better  to-day.  This  morning,  while  hunting  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Sabine,  Frederick  saw  a  large  walrus, 
but  he  could  not  get  within  range  on  account  of  intervening  lanes  of  water.  Long  started  out  at  4  p.  m.  on 
his  night  tour  of  hunting. 

Monday,  May  5,  1884. — Cloudy  and  windy  weather.  At  midnight  the  temperature  stood  at  zero 
[— i7.8°C.];  at  II  a.  m., -+-15.5  [ — 9. 2°  C.j;  and  at  5  p.  m.  4-10.0  [  —  12.2°  C.].  Light  snow  began  falling 
at  about  6  p.  m.  Long  returned  from  hunting  soon  after  midnight,  reporting  that  he  had  seen  nothing. 
The  hunting  tour  of  Frederick  terminated  with  a  like  result.  I  caught  twenty-eight  pounds  of  shrimps  and 
raked  up  three  pounds  of  kelp.  Henry  and  Biederbick  collected  a  considerable  quantity  of  saxifrage  for 
fuel.  Lieutenant  Greely  gave  me  full  and  exjilicit  instructions  for  future  action  in  the  event  of  his  death,  as 
well  as  several  verbal  messages  to  his  wife,  to  General  Hazen  and  others,  all  of  which  I  have  noted  that 
nothing  may  be  omitted  nor  forgotten.  Doctor  Pavy  tells  me  that  my  strength  is  failing  fast,  and  that  he 
detects  the  existence  of  heart  trouble,  which  is  probably  the  result  of  my  arduous  labors. 

Dtesday,  May  6,  1884. — A  southeast  gale  rose  at  3.30  a.  m.  and  continued  to  blow  with  great  violence 
until  I  p.  m ;  temperature  at  i  p.  m.,  -f- 14.0  [—10.0°  C],  and  at  6  p.  m.,  +20.0  [—6.7°  C.].    The  tunnel 
or  passage  leading  into  the  hut  was  drifted  full  of  snow  during  the  progress  of  the  storm  and  the  door  com- 
pletely blockaded.     The  men  are  feeling  wretchedly.     Half  a  lemon  was  used  this  morning  to  flavor  the 
H.  Mis.  393 33 


i  ^i 


514 


THE  LADY  FRAMvLlX  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


diluted  alcohol.  Only  one  and  a  half  lemons  remain  of  the  large  number  found  in  the  cache  last  autumn  ; 
these  few  constitute  the  only  luxury  in  KUesmere  Land.  In  conformity  with  his  order,  I  issued  Lieutenant 
Greely  one  pound  of  lime-juice  pemmican  for  his  use  for  four  days.  Four  ounces  of  Elison's  extra  ration 
have  been  discontinued  for  the  present.  I  repaired  to  the  shrim|)  fishery  after  dinner,  and  during  the  three 
hours'  work  which  followed  I  caught  twelve  pounds  of  shrim[)s  and  two  pounds  of  kelp.  A  heavy  snow-storm 
was  in  progress  at  the  time. 

For  a  long  time  Dr.  Pavy  has  been  objecting  to  certain  arrangements  made  by  Lieutenant  (ireely,  and 
particularly  with  reference  to  the  distribution  of  [)rovision  lias  he  made  himself  very  obnoxious.  To-day  he 
had  a  stormy  discussion  with  Lieutenant  Greely,  during  which  the  latter  several  times  ordered  him  to  "  shut 
up."  Notwithstanding  this  order  Pavy  continued  to  pour  out  a  stream  of  abuse  which  so  exasperated  Lieu- 
tenant Greely  that  he  excitedly  exclaimed,  "If  you  were  not  the  surgeon  of  this  expedition  I  would  shoot 
you ! "  At  this  point  Bender,  who  was  a  strong  adherent  of  Pavy's,  interfered,  but  he  was  informed  that  he 
must  preserve  silence  if  he  did  not  wish  to  receive  the  same  treatment  with  which  Dr.  Pavy  had  been  threat- 
ened. Bender  ignored  this  admonition  and  continued  to  regale  those  present  with  opinions,  &c.,  when  Lieu- 
tenant Greely  seized  Long's  rifle  and  was  about  to  raise  it,  when  I,  in  response  to  the  entreaties  of  Connell  to 
"  prevent  a  tragedy,"  interfered,  and  removed  the  weapon  from  his  hand.  Bender  was  now  made  to  get  into 
his  sleeping-bag,  and  in  a  few  minutes  order  was  restored  and  this  episode  forgotten,  in  the  earnest  considera- 
tion of  an  imaginary  bill  of  fare  to  which  we  had  turned  our  attention. 

Wednesday,  May  7,  1884. — A  brisk  westerly  wind  created  considerable  heavy  drifting;  temperature  at 
6  a.  m.,  +14.0  [  — io.c°C.];  at  n  a.  m.,  +32.5  [+0.3°  C.];  and  at  3  p.  m.,  -+-15.0  [— 9.40C.].  Many, 
including  myself,  spent  the  greater  portion  of  the  day  in  inditing  farewell  letters  to  friends  and  relatives.  I 
also  addressed  one  to  the  officer  commanding  the  relief  party,  in  order  that  he  might  find  everything  of  value 
without  loss  of  time.  Gardiner,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  and  Ellis  are  worse  to-day.  Owing  to  the  stormy 
weather  the  hunters  did  not  venture  out.  A  large  section  was  cut  from  the  side  of  the  boat  and  the  opening 
thus  made  was  covered  with  canvas  to  keep  out  the  flying  snow.  The  wood  taken  from  the  boat  is  needed 
for  fuel.  At  2.30  p.  m.  the  wind  veered  to  the  east  and  increased  in  violence  to  a  gale.  I  started  for  the 
fishery  at  3  o'clock  this  afternoon,  but  being  too  weak  to  face  the  terrific  velocity  of  the  wind  I  was  forced 
to  return  to  the  hut.  I  was  blown  back  several  times  from  the  crest  of  Cemetery  Ridge,  and  had  finally  to 
crawl  upon  my  hands  and  knees  to  gain  it. 

Tuesday,  Ma  8,  1884. — The  wind  subsided  at  n  a.  m.;  a  short  time  previous  to  this  snow  began  to 
fall  heavily.  This  however  ceased  at  2  p.  m.,  and  the  sun  shone  brightly  through  a  cloudless  sky.  Tem- 
perature at  7  a.  m.,  +'6.0  1—8.9°  C.J,  and  at  9  p.  m.,  +6.0  [—14.4°  C.].  At  7  a.  m.  I  hauled  the  nets  at 
the  shrimping  place  and  fished  steadily  for  five  hours,  taking  in  all  during  that  time  twelve  pounds.  After 
dinner  I  caught  twenty-two  pounds  more  and  about  five  pounds  of  sea  vegetation.  I  felt  very  tired  on  my 
return  this  evening  to  the  hut  in  consequence  of  my  unusual  exertions  to-day.  The  heavy  rake  with  which 
I  haul  the  vegetation  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea  is  fast  reducing  my  strength,  and  I  feel  that  this  work 
must  be  discontinued  in  a  few  more  days.  The  sound  now  appears  to  be  entirely  open,  and  the  observer 
is  at  once  impressed  with  the  opinion  that  a  vessel  could  navigate  its  waters  with  perfect  safety.  Frederick 
went  out  hunting  at  4  a.  m. 

Friday,  May  9,  1884. — Temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  +14.0  [—10.0°  C.];  at  11  a.  m.,  +13.0  [—10.6°  C] 
and  at  4  p.  m.,  -|-io.o  [—12.2°  C.].  Cloudy  weather,  with  westerly  winds  prevailing.  Frederick  returned 
at  1.30  a.  m.,  reporting  that  he  had  killetl  no  game,  but  that  he  had  seen  several  seals  enjoying  a  sun-bath 
on  the  drifting  ice-floes.  He  also  saw  several  gulls,  and  a  bird  with  a  long  beak,  which  he  could  not  identify. 
A  school  offish  which  he  saw  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Cape  Sabine  was  probalily  white  whales. 

The  doctor  thinks  it  highly  probable  that  we  can  live  on  the  shrimps  and  vegetation  alone  for  some 
time  after  the  last  of  our  provisions  has  been  issued,  [n  view  of  the  enervated  systems  of  the  weaker  mem- 
bers of  the  party,  however,  I  cannot  believe  they  will  survive  many  days  after  the  reduction  in  food  takes 
place.  Ellis  prepared  several  baits  for  my  use  at  shrimping  by  covering  small  stones  with  bear-skin.  Dr. 
Pavy  is  doing  wonderfully  well  at  the  present  lime.  He  cuts  all  the  ice  for  the  cooks,  attends  assiduously 
to  the  sick,  gives  lectures,  and  bustles  about  the  hut  and  camp  in  the  interests  of  all.  I  issued  another 
pound  of  pemmican  to  Lieutenant  Greely  to-day  for  his  personal  use.  The  daily  issue  of  "  moonshine"  is 
having  a  very  wholesome  and  beneficial  effect  on  the  spirits  and  general  tone  of  the  party.  Notwithstanding 
the  inclement  weather,  Long  went  early  this  morning  in  quest  of  game.  He  saw  no  birds,  but  a  few  seals 
were  observed  in  the  water  some  distance  away  from  the  edge  of  the  ice.     Israel's  extra  ration  of  four 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  KXl'KIHTION. 


515 


ounces  of  meat  was  discontinued  to-day ;  Klison's  ration  has  been  reduced  to  four  ounces  per  day.  The 
hunters  receive  twelve  ounces  extra  on  days  when  they  work,  and  only  eight  ouni  cs  when  they  do  not  work. 
The  shrimper  (myself)  receives  eight  ounces  daily.  I  took  thirty  pounds  of  shrimps  to-day,  after  having 
fished  steadily  for  more  than  five  hours.  I  lost  my  kelp-rake  by  the  breaking  of  the  rope  with  wiiii  ii  I 
dragged  it  along  the  bottom.  A  cpiantity  of  the  vegetation,  however,  was  sc(  ured  with  a  long  pole  which 
had  previously  been  used  by  Rice  for  this  purpose.     Salor  iind  Wiiisler  made  tiicir  wills  to-day. 

Saturday,  May  lo,  1884. — C!lear,  beautiful  weather;  ligiu  west  winds,  and  temperature  at  2  a.  m.  stand- 
ing at  zero  [  —  17.8°  C.];  at  3  p.  m.,  +6.0  [—14,4°  C],  and  at  9  p.  m.,  +,vo  [—16.1°  C'.].  Frederick  having 
gone  out  last  evening  for  the  purpose  of  hunting,  returned  at  2  a.  m.  He  had  seen  two  seals  and  one  white 
whale,  but  none  of  which  he  had  the  slightest  chance  of  shooting.  After  dinner  he  went  out  again  for  a  few 
hours.  Long,  who  had  hunted  during  the  day,  met  with  no  better  success  tiian  Frederick.  I  caught  thirty- 
six  pounds  of  shrimps,  and  dragged  up  ten  pounds  of  sea  vegetation.  This  required  over  six  hours  of  painful 
toil,  and,  on  returning  to  the  hut  greatly  exhausted,  the  exertion  of  climbing  the  ice-foot  caused  the  blood  to 
gush  in  a  stream  from  'ny  nostrils.  Sitti.ig  down  for  a  few  moments  to  recover  from  the  faintness  which  had 
suddenly  seized  me,  ti.-  blood  soon  ceased  to  flow.  Dr.  Pavy  tells  me  that  this  hemorrhage  was  probably 
the  result  of  too  much  exertion.  I  made  a  ml-.v  r.ike  today,  which  is  a  decided  improvement  over  the  old 
one. 

The  Greenland  coast  looms  up  very  plainly  and  distinctly  to-night,  and  Smith  Sound  is  open  to  Littleton 
Island,  and  perfectly  free  of  ice.  Long  said  that,  standing  on  the  high  ground  back  of  Cape  Sabine,  and 
looking  to  the  north  and  to  the  south,  no  ice  appeared  in  sight  within  the  range  of  his  vision.  This  state  of 
the  sound  is  a  very  favorable  indication  for  the  arrival  of  relief  vessels,  or  the  party  which  I  believe  is  at 
Littleton  Island. 

Sunday,  May  11,  1884. — A  clear,  beautiful  day,  and  only  the  suspicion  of  a  light  breeze  from  the  west; 
temperature  at  2  a.  m.,  —2.0  [  —  18.9°  C] ;  at  3  p.  m.,  +7.5  [—  13.6°  C.J;  and  at  6  p.  m.,  +1.0  [— i7.2°C.J. 
Frederick  returned  at  2  a.  m.  from  hunting,  and  reported  having  shot  a  large  seal  which  sank  before  it  drifted 
to  the  margin  of  the  ice  where  he  was  waiting  to  receive  it.  This  is  inileed  a  sad  loss  to  us — almost  a  fatal 
blow.  After  dinner  we  went  out  again.  Long  went  to  the  open  water  after  breakfast,  returning  at  4  p.  m. 
He  had  seen  several  seals,  one  of  which  he  endeavored  to  shoot,  but  without  success.  Newly-formed  ice 
in  great  fields  has  been  crowding  down  from  the  north  all  day,  drifting  with  the  current  to  the  southward. 
The  remainder  of  the  pemmican  was  issued  this  morning,  also  the  last  of  the  fresh  meat,  except  ten  pounds, 
which  Lieutenant  Greely  directed  me  to  keep  for  the  present.  Gardiner  is  looking  somewhat  better;  Lieu- 
tenant Kislingbury  and  Private  Ellis  are  worse.  Biederbick  made  me  a  rake  for  the  sea  vegetation,  which 
is  not  so  heavy  as  my  own,  and  which  works  exceedingly  well.  I  caught  twenty-six  pounds  of  shrimps  and 
ten  of  kelp. 

Monday,  May  12,  1884. — Calm  and  cl'^nHv  weather;  temperature  at  i  a.  m.,  -f  6.0  [—14.4°  C.];  at  6 
a.  m.,  -4-9.0°  [—12.8°  C.|,  and  at  8  p.  m.,  -f  —  16.1°  C.].     Frederick  returned  at  i  a.  m.,  having  seen  one 

seal  and  a  gull.  He  also  saw  a  ptarmigan  on  „emetry  Ridge,  but  having  to  return  to  the  house  for  the  shot- 
gun the  bird  was  lost.  I  issued  the  last  of  our  provisions  to-day.  The  issue  consisted  of  twelve  and  one-half 
ounces  of  tallow  and  bacon  to  each  man.  Tiiis  is  sui)posecl  to  last  for  two  days,  but  if  desired  it  can  be 
eaten  at  once;  each  man  having  full  control  of  his  food  now.  In  addition  to  the  issue  mentioned  above, 
six  ounces  of  tallow  for  each  man  have  been  reserved  for  use  in  our  shrimp  stews  during  the  next  six  meals. 
The  extra  rations  for  the  hunters  and  shrimper  extend  only  to  to-morrow.  Heaven  only  knows  what  we 
will  do  now.    The  present  circumstances  indicate  that  we  can  do  nothing  but  die. 

Israel  is  feeling  greatly  depressed  in  spirits  to-day,  and  has  made  a  verbal  will  or  request,  that  in  the 
event  of  his  death  the  effects  on  his  person  will  be  disposed  of  according  to  iiis  wishes.  We  speak  freely  of 
death,  but  it  is  more  in  a  spirit  of  a  business  matter  than  with  dread  of  its  approach.  I  think  that  all  feel 
resigned  to  the  inevitable,  and  I  am  sure  that  none  fear  death,  even  in  its  worst  forms.  Another  large 
section  of  the  boat  was  removed  to-day  and  canvas  substituted  to  keep  out  tlie  snow,  Tiie  canvas  door  at 
the  outer  end  of  the  first  passage  or  tunnel  was  taken  off  to-day.  This  leaves  only  the  short  passage  next 
to  the  house,  and  this  we  hope  to  do  away  with  in  a  few  days  more.  Long  saw  nothing  to-day  except  two 
seals.  He  appeared  very  much  exhausted  on  returning  from  his  long  tramj),  and  expressed  some  concern 
regarding  his  strength.  Frederick  did  not  go  out  this  evening  owing  to  a  severe  storm  which  rose  just  after 
dinner.     I  caught  twenty-five  pounds  of  shrimp  and  five  pounds  of  kelp. 


,*i, 


516 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXPEDITION. 


Diesday,  May  13,  1884. — A  clear  and  beautiful  day;  no  wind  except  previous  to  9  a.  m.,  when  it  was 
very  light;  temperature  at  10  a.  m.,  +14.0  f  — lo.o"  C.|,  and  at  10  p.  m.,  +5.0  [—  1  ^.0°  C.].  All  of  us, 
excepting  Elison,  were  out  to  day  to  enjoy  the  warmth  and  brightness  of  the  sun.  This  is  the  only  privilege- 
that  we  are  permitted  to  enjoy — all  others  being  denied  us  by  the  neglect  of  our  couutrymen  to  provide 
suitable  measures  for  our  n.iief  .  ilis  will  probably  go  in  a  few  lays;  lie  fell  helplessly  in  the  passage- 
way this  morning,  because  of  his  inability  to  use  his  limbs.  We  all  stagger  and  reel  about  like  drunken 
men  when  we  walk,  and  it  is  only  by  a  supreme  effort  of  the  will  that  we  can  persuade  ourselves  to  walk 
at  all. 

Long  is  quite  ill  to-day,  consecpiently  he  did  not  go  out.  P'rederick,  however,  made  his  customary  visit 
to  the  open  water.  He  reported  that  nothing  but  a  raven  and  seal  was  seen.  Marks  or  scratches  were 
observed  on  the  margin  of  the  ice,  which  indi(  ate  that  a  seal  had  recently  made  an  effort  to  crawl  up  on  the 
floe.  Schneider  had  to  be  released  from  cooking  this  morning  on  account  of  faintness.  Henry  officiated  in 
his  stead  during  the  remainder  of  the  day.  Some  of  the  men  have  already  consumed  their  last  issue  of  food, 
and  they  will  now  have  to  de|)end  on  the  shrimps.  I  had  Uender  construct  a  dredge  from  a  large  bacon  can, 
with  which  I  endeavored  to  secure  a  few  molUisks  by  hauling  it  along  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  The  apparatus 
is  either  too  rudely  constructed,  or  else  there  is  nothing  to  be  secured ;  at  least  I  got  nothing  for  my  labors 
but  a  handful  of  sand.  I  caught  twenty-two  pounds  of  shrimjjs  and  four  pounds  of  vegetation.  I  convey 
the  shrimp  in  two  large  tin  buckets  which  are  swung  over  the  shoulders  by  a  broad  leathern  strap.  It  is  very 
exhausting  to  carry  for  a  mile  these  heavy  buckets  of  shrimps.  I  do  not  think  my  strength  can  hold  out  for 
many  more  days.  Frederick  narrowly  escaped  being  carried  away  to  sea  by  the  detaching  from  the  main 
floe  of  that  portion  of  ice  on  which  he  was  standing. 

IVeiimsiiay  j/i/y  14,  1884. — Clear  weather  until  noon,  when  light  snow  began  falling;  temperature  at 
Sa.m.,+7.o[  -i3.9°C.];  at  8  a.  m.,  +  12.0  f  — 11.1°  C],  and  at  4  p.  m., +15.0  [—9.4°  C.|.  The  hunters 
went  out  together  this  morning,  returning  at  4  p.  m.  They  saw  a  seal  and  two  dovekies.  The  former  they 
could  have  shot  without  dilticulty,  but  without  a  boat  or  kayak  it  could  not  be  saved.  Uender  made  a  screen 
for  the  hunters,  which  they  will  carry  before  them  in  approaching  game.  Schneider  is  feeling  somewhat 
better;  as  a  matter  of  precaution  and  business,  he  made  his  will  to-day.  Israel  was  very  ill  during  the 
morning,  but  towards  evening  he  felt  much  better.  Poor  fellow!  How  bravely  he  faces  the  grim  destroyer, 
and  how  manly  will  be  his  end!  But  we  are  all  going  quickly,  and  there  is  nothing  to  do  but  to  die  without 
a  murmur,  like  men  and  soldiers,  nt  the  appointed  time.  Lieutenants  Greely  and  Kislingbury,  and  Private 
Ellis,  very  much  weaker  than  yesterday.  During  the  early  morning  we  all  went  outside  to  bask  like  seals 
in  the  sunshine  ;  lying  meanwhile  at  full  length  on  a  discarded  slee[)ing-bag.  These  sun-baths  are  good  for 
both  body  and  mind  ;  but  on  our  wretched  and  shrunken  bodies  there  is  but  little  surface  for  the  sun  to  act. 

After  five  hours  of  hard  labor  this  evening  1  succeeded  in  taking  only  about  two  pounds  of  vegetation 
and  twenty  pounds  of  shrimps.  My  baits  are  now  very  poor,  but  I  am  utilizing  every  ounce  so  as  to  bring 
the  largest  returns  possible. 

Thursday,  May  15,  1884. —  To-day  the  weather  has  been  clear  and  cloudless,  and  light  winds  from  the 
west  have  prevailed ;  temperature  at  7  a.  m., -I-9.0  f — 12.8°  C);  at  11  a.m.,  +16.0  [—8.9  C.J ;  at  3  p.m., 
•+-22.0  [— 5.6°  C],  and  at  10  p.  m.,  +  lo.o  [— 12.2°  C.].  In  many  places,  on  the  dark  surface  of  the  rocks 
the  snow  melted  under  the  influence  of  the  sun,  and  trickling  down  the  sides  formed  in  pools  at  their  base. 
Long  endeavored  to  reach  the  open  water  this  morning,  but  was  attacked  by  vertigo,  which  necessitated 
his  immediate  return  to  our  wretched  den.  All  are  weaker;  even  the  remarkable  energy  which  Lieutenant 
Greely,  as  a  conversationalist,  has  exhibited  during  the  winter  is  deserting  him,  and  he  has  but  faint  hopes 
for  the  future.  Frederick  returned  at  3  p.  ni.  from  his  hunting  trip  with  the  discouraging  report  that  he  had 
seen  nothing.  Dr.  Pavy  says  that  Gchneider  has  evident  symptoms  of  scurvy.  The  last  solid  food  will 
to-night  be  eaten  in  a  shrimp  stew.  It  consists  of  one  ounce  of  tallow  to  each  man.  All  the  future  stews 
will  be  simply  shrimps  and  water.     We  surely  cannot  live  long  on  these. 

After  working  constantly  for  six  hours  I  caught  twenty-one  pounds  of  shrimps  and  three  pounds  of 
kelp.  I  am  fearfully  weakened  and  reduced  from  the  exertion  and  fatigue  incident  to  work  of  this  kind.  A 
few  more  days,  probably  four  or  five,  of  this  severe  strain  and  all  my  energies  will  be  exhausted. 

Friday,  May  16,  1884. — Clear  weather;  light  west  win<ls,  and  the  temperature  at  7  a.m.,  +  n-o 
I —II. 7   C.];  at  12  m.,  +  15.0  [—9.4°  C],  and  at  5  p.  m.,  +  ii.o  [—11.7"  C.J. 


TUB  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  UXi'liUlTlON. 


617 


During  the  last  week  snow-birds  have  l)een  seen  in  great  niiinbcrs  in  thi-  immediate  vicinity  of  the  iiou^o. 
To-day  the  hunters  saw  only  one  seal,  and  he  was  so  far  beyond  the  rea(  h  of  their  ritles  tliat  he  escaped. 
The  baits  which  I  use  in  my  siirimp  nets  are  so  poor  and  so  niuiii  riddled  that  I  took  only  9  pounds  of 
shrimps  to-day.  Of  kelp  I  secured  2  pounds.  My  strengtli  is  .scanely  sufhi  ient  to  drag  the  heavy  iron  rake 
along  the  bottom  for  this  vegetation.  When  I  fail  1  iiope  sonie  one  will  assume  my  duties.  1  have  changed 
to  the  morning  tide  in  order  to  stxure  sunlight  and  iietter  hours  for  working.  Cunnell  went  to  the  westward 
along  the  coast  on  the  lookout  for  game,  but  after  a  brief  absence  he  returned  fatigue<l  and  disappointed. 

The  large  wall-tent  was  hauled  to  Cemetery  Riilge,  and,  with  the  assistan(  e  of  some  of  the  strongest 
men,  it  was  finally  pitched.  The  extreme  dampness  of  the  hut  makes  this  more  necessary;  in  a  few  days 
the  party  will  have  to  abandon  the  house  for  tiie  tent,  where  they  will  probably  remain  until  the  crisis  is 
reached.  Lieutenants  (Ireely  and  Kislingbury,  Sergeant  ( iardiner,  and  Private  Kllis  are  much  worse.  Salor  is 
too  unwell  to  cook  longer.  VVhisler  broke  down  conn)letely  this  evening.  He  was  not  able  to  cut  enough 
wood  to  cook  breakfast  with.  Schneider  is  the  only  one  who  says  lie  thinks  himself  improving,  liender, 
who  was  very  disagreeable  at  different  times  last  winter,  is  now  doing  fairly  well;  he  came  bravely  to  the  front 
to-day,  and  offered  to  cut  the  wood  for  fuel  when  Whislcr  failed  to  jjerform  this  work,  which  had  been 
assigned  him.  Smith  Sounil  was  to-day  a  rolling,  billowy  sea;  it  was  entirely  free  from  drifting  ice,  and  there 
was  apparently  nothing  to  prevent  small  boats  from  crossing  liie  sound  to  this  place. 

Sittuniay,  May  17,  1884. — .\  clear,  beautiful  day;  a  light  precipitation  of  frost  did  not  to  any  extent 
detract  from  the  clearness  of  the  atmosphere;  light  winds  from  the  \yest.  Temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  +  12.0 
[—  11.1°  C.];  at  I  p.  m.,  +  25.5  [—3.6"  C.J,  and  at  5  p.  m.,  -)-  13,0  [—10.6°  C.].  At  noon  a  thermometer 
exposed  in  the  sun  indicated  +  400  [+  4.4°  C.].  Every  time  a  bright  day  visits  us  we  go  outside  and  lie 
down  on  a  pile  of  old  clothing,  sleeping-bags,  &c.,  to  secure  the  benefits  arising  from  sun-baths.  I  caught 
sixteen  pounds  of  shrimps  and  four  pounds  of  vegetation.  To  say  that  after  this  exertion  I  was  tired  and 
weak,  will  but  feebly  express  my  real  condition.  The  hunters  and  the  shrimper  (the  latter  myself)  will  here- 
after receive  a  double  allowance  of  the  thin  shrimp  stew  to  preserve  their  strength  as  long  as  possible. 

A  portion  of  a  can  of  lard  which  had  been  retained  as  ointment  for  poor  Elison's  wounds,  was  to-day 
issued  in  equal  proportions  to  the  party.  The  remainder  of  the  diluted  alcohol  was  also  issued.  Saxifrage 
is  now  occupying  a  prominent  place  in  our  diet,  but  I  cannot  say  that  it  will  preserve  our  strength  very  long. 
It  does  not  distress  the  stomach,  and  it  appears  to  possess  nutritive  qualities.  The  hunters  now  go  out 
alternately.  Long,  who  went  out  to-day,  saw  one  seal  in  the  water,  but  he  failed  to  get  a  shot  at  him. 
Ellis  is  much  weaker.  Lieutenant  Greely  seems  somewhat  better  than  yesterday.  We  talk  very  little 
now,  owing  to  lack  of  interest  in  anything  except  that  which  pertains  to  food.  All  our  subjects  are  thread- 
bare, but  imaginary  bills  of  fare  always  possess  much  of  interest  to  us.  The  snow  thawed  rapidly  to-day  on 
the  rocks  above  camp.  Schneider  has  recovered  sufficiently  from  his  illness  to  be  able  to  resume  his  duties 
as  cook. 

Sunday,  May  18,  1884. — Stormy  weather;  a  southeast  gale,  accompanied  by  snow,  has  been  in  prog- 
ress since  early  this  morning.  Temperature  at  3  a.  m.,  +  10.0  [— i2.2°C.],  and  at  11  a.  m.,  +  18.0 
[  —  7.8°  C.].  Long  shot  a  large  raven  at  5  a.  m.  I  had  attempted  to  secure  this  bird  only  two  hours  earlier, 
but  it  unfortunately  escaped  me.  It  will  be  used  for  shrimp  bait.  Notwithstanding  the  inclement  weather  I 
fished  for  shrimps  all  the  forenoon,  taking  ten  pounds.  I  also  caught  two  pounds  of  vegetation.  The 
hunters  did  not  venture  out  in  the  merciless  storm  to-day.  The  water  has  encroached  considerably  this  side 
of  Cape  Sabine,  and  it  is  rapidly  working  in  towards  Buchanan  Straits.  A  vessel  could  have  sailed  to-day 
in  an  iceless  sea  between  this  and  the  Greenland  coast.  To  the  excessive  joy  of  all,  three  more  issues  of 
alcohol  were  found  in  a  rubber  bag  which  had  been  mislaid  in  the  boat.     Ellis  is  much  weaker. 

Monday,  May  19,  1884. — The  gale  which  was  in  progress  yesterday  continued  all  night  and  until  noon 
to-day,  when  it  abated  to  a  fresh  breeze.  The  snow  has  been  swept  from  the  floe  in  many  places,  and  the 
drifts  which  have  accumulated  along  the  shore  are  as  firm  and  unyielding  as  marble.  Temperature  at  7 
a.  m.,  -I-21.0  [—6.1°  C.].  Frederick  who  had  been  dispatched  at  4  a.  m.  to  cut  ice  for  breakfast  returned 
in  a  moment  greatly  excited,  but  with  the  welcome  inforr  .ation  that  he  had  seen  a  bear  outside.  In  the 
twinkling  of  an  eye  he  disappeared  through  the  door,  followed  closely  by  Long,  both  bearing  their  rifles. 
Loading  the  shotgun  with  ball  cartridges  I  followed  the  hunters  in  a  few  minutes.  After  tramping  for  an 
hour  without  seeing  anything  either  of  the  hunters  or  the  bear,  I  turned  back  to  camp,  not  wishing  to  break 
down  my  strength  and  thus  compromise  our  only  means  of  sustaining  life— the  shrimp  fishery.     Frederick 


v\ 


\ 


■   i  i 


518 


THE  LADY  FKANKMX  BAY  KXl'BDITIOX. 


!! 


came  in  from  the  pursuit  at  lo  a.  m.,  and  Long  returned  about  an  hour  later.  Neither  had  been  able  to 
get  within  range  of  the  animal,  although  he  was  followed  closely  for  hours.  Becoming  exhausted  by  their 
arduous  labors  in  the  rough  ice  and  the  dee|)  snow,  the  hunters  turned  back  while  they  yet  pos»essed  suf- 
ficient strength  to  enable  them  to  return  to  Camp  Clay.  When  the  bear  was  first  seen  by  Frederick  this 
morning  he  was  standing  but  a  few  feet  from  the  rear  of  the  hut. 

After  fis  ling  steadily  for  several  hours,  I  returne<l  with  fifteen  pounds  of  shrimps  and  one  pound  ofkclp* 
I  do  not  feel  that  I  can  continue  this  work  much  longer.  Kverything  I  do  now  is  through  sheer  force  of 
will.  Israel  and  (jardiner  are  worse;  the  former  was  not  able  to  eat  his  shrimps  this  morning,  and  the 
latter  is  very  much  weaker  than  usual.  The  large  F.nglish  sledge  was  to-day  broken  up  for  fuel.  We  hope 
to  extend  this  fuel  for  some  days,  and  the  saxifrage,  of  which  Connell  and  Dr.  Pavy  have  collected  a  con- 
siderable quantity,  will  be  used  in  conjunction  with  it.  Ellis,  who  has  been  very  weak  and  sick  for  several 
days,  iiuietly  breathed  his  last  at  10.30  a.  m.  No  symptoms  of  scurvy  were  apparent,  bul  his  death  was  due 
solely  to  starvation.  Frederick  saw  dozens  of  dovekies  at  the  open  water  this  morning,  but  he  possessed  no 
means  of  securing  them,  even  had  they  been  within  range  of  his  gun.  The  hu>t  issue  of  diluted  alcohol  was 
made  this  morning.     VVhisler  broke  down  to-day  from  excessive  weakness  and  lack  of  will  power. 

Tuesday,  May  20,  1884. — Fresh  southerly  winds  have  prevailed  all  day,  and  slight  drifting  was  in  con- 
sequence experienced.  These  winds  have  raised  the  temi)erature  to  +31.0  [—0.6°  C],  and  the  snow  is 
becoming  soft.  Weather  cloudy.  R;ilis  was  buried  at  noon  on  Cemetery  Riilge.  So  weak  have  the  men 
become  that  we  could  scarcely  find  a  sufficient  number  with  enough  strength  to  haul  the  remains  of  the  dead 
on  the  hill  to  their  last  resting-place. 

Israel  is  much  worse.  Lieutenant  Oreely  directed  me  to  issue  Israel  four  ounces  of  the  raven  which 
had  been  ke|)t  for  shrimp  bait.  Biederbick  was  unable  to  eat  his  shrimps  this  morning.  They  are  not 
palatable  to  any  of  us,  and  it  is  only  with  the  greatest  effort  that  we  can  persuade  ourselves  that  they  must 
be  forced  down  if  we  wish  to  prolong  our  lives.  A  small  quantity  of  Medford  rum,  which  we  were  keeping 
for  an  emergency,  was  to-day  issued  to  the  party.  Bender  and  Henry  gathered  a  large  sackful  of  saxifrage 
which  will  be  used  to  eke  out  the  sleniler  sup|)ly  of  fuel.  The  green  shoots  of  this  plant  are  used  largely  in 
the  shrimp  stews  by  several  of  the  men.  This  vegetation  has  no  unpleasant  flavor,  and  it  materially  assists 
to  fill  the  void  in  our  stomachs,  but  I  doubt  if  it  possesses  any  particular  nutritive  value. 

The  late  storm  has  broken  for  a  long  distance  into  the  ice  this  side  of  Cape  Sabine.  There  is  so  little 
ice  in  Smith  Sound  now  that  a  vessel  could  steam  anywhere  between  Cape  Sabine  and  Littleton  Island.  As 
the  gale  was  southerly  we  had  expected  that  Smith  Sound  wculd  be  choked  by  the  ice  drivtn  northward  from 
the  north  water.  But  the  absence  of  ice  in  the  sound  is  positive  proof  that  the  North  water  was  and  is  also 
free  from  ice.  If  our  Government  neglects  to  send  a  relief  vessel  with  the  whalers  when  they  pass  Melville 
Bay  in  the  early  days  of  June,  it  will  either  be  an  act  of  criminal  negligence,  or  else  it  will  be  because  of 
inexcusable  ignorance  on  its  part.  We  are  striving  hard  to  survive  on  the  shrimps  and  kelp,  but  as  I  catch 
but  small  quantities  of  these  now,  we  cannot  hope  to  live  much  longer.  To-day  I  caught  twelve  pounds  of 
shriinps  and  two  of  kelp.  Another  bear  or  a  large  seal  would  save  us  all  from  a  fate  identical  with  that 
which  befell  Franklin's  expedition. 

Hednesciay,  May  21,  1884. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  -+-29.0  [—1.7°  C],  and 
3p.  m., +36.0  [+2.2°  C.J.  In  the  sun  the  thermometer  indicated  +42.0  [+5.6°  C.].  Snow-drifts  have 
become  very  soft,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  any-dark  surface  they  thaw  quickly.  Light  snow  has 
been  falling  steadily  since  this  morning.  The  hunters  made  their  customary  visit  to  the  open  water  to-day; 
their  efforts,  as  usual,  being  rewarded  by  nothing.  In  consequence  of  the  excessive  dampness  of  the  interior 
of  our  house,  we  will  probably  move  on  the  hill  to-morrow.  The  tent  was  pitched  there  some  time  ago,  but 
it  was  blown  down  during  the  recent  gale. 

Dr.  Pavy  says  that  our  food  must  be  something  more  substantial  than  these  shrimps,  or  none  of  us  can 
live  long.  I  caught  twelve  pounds  of  these  animals  to-day,  and  one  pound  of  marine  vegetation.  Returned 
very  much  exhausted  from  this  trip.  Cannot  last  much  longer.  Medford  rum  was  again  issued.  The  snow 
is  being  removed  from  the  roof  of  our  miserable  hovel,  in  order  that  the  boat  may  be  used  for  fuel. 

I  had  a  long  conversation  with  Lieutenant  Greely  this  morning.  He  is  anything  but  hopeful  of  the 
future.  Some  of  his  papers  have  been  committed  to  my  care,  and  in  the  event  of  his  death  I  will  place 
theni  (if  I  survive)  in  the  hands  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer. 

To-day  Dr.  Pavy  circulated  a  paper,  written  by  hmiself,  which  certified  to  his  medical  skill,  and  to  his 
devotion  to  his  professional  duties.  He  solicited  the  signatures  to  this  paper  of  several  men,  of  the  party, 
myself  included. 


TIIK  hADY   KUANKIilN  HAY   KXI'KMITION. 


519 


T/iurs,/iiy,  Afiiy  21,  1884.— l'U)iuly  woallicr;  lij<ht  westerly  wimls  ;in<l  a  liigh  tctnperaturc.  No  reading 
of  the  tl\L'riii(>iiietcr  w;ih  iiuulc  in  tin-  shade;  in  the  miii,  however,  it  ri'nistt  red  +  (S.o  |  +S.90  C'.|.  The  snow, 
\vlu«  h  is  lieaped  in  a  hii^e  drift  about  tiie  hoiisi',  thawiil  < onsideraiily  lu  d.iy,  and  the  dri|)|)ing  of  the  dnn)|i- 
luss  from  the  roof  inside  warned  us  that  it  was  time  to  move  if  we  wished  to  escape  heinj;  drowned  out. 
Aiiordinnly  the  tent  was  placed  in  position  on  .1  small  plateau  near  (  emetery  Rid^e,  and  five  of  the  party 
will  sleep  in  it  to-ni^ht.  Owing  to  extreme  weakness,  (he  hunters  did  not  venture  out  to  the  open  water. 
I.on^  is  (|uite  ill  from  the  cfiects  of  overwork  on  his  reeent  hunting  trips.  Lieutenant  Kislinglniry,  C'onneli, 
Israel,  and  lliederl)i<  k  are  much  weaker.  Ralston  is  delirious  and  is  most  likely  dying  now  (4  p.  m.).  lie  * 
drank  some  rum  only  two  hours  ago,  and  iluring  the  forenoon  he  ale  large  i|uantitics  of  saxifrage,  and  at  one 
time  he  sang  a  song.  Less  than  un  hour  ago.  Lieutenant  Cireely,  in  whose  bag  he  is,  fed  him  a  portion  of 
his  shrimp  stew.  1  thought  I  heard  the  howl  of  a  wolf  to  day,  and  lienry  fantieil  that  he  heard  the  peculiar 
cry  of  a  skua. 

Dr.  I'avy  retjuested  that  the  remainder  of  our  stock  of  rum  be  issued  only  to  those  who  are  working 
(himself  exce|)te(l),  but  to  this  Lieutenant  (Ireely  would  not  :u  (  ede.  The  latter  stated  that  no  issue  would 
be  made  uidess  all  shared  alike. 

FriiUiy,  Mity  23,  1884. — Clouily  weather,  light  westerly  winds,  and  high  temjierature.  Light  snow  fell 
during  the  afternoon  and  evening.  With  the  exi eption  of  five  nun  the  entire  i)arty  has  moveil  on  the  hill 
where  the  ti;nt  was  pitcheil.  This,  together  with  a  small  shelter  in  front,  accommodates  all  except  the  five 
mentioned  ;  they  .sleep  in  the  old  house  where  we  spent  the  winter.  Llison  w as  niovetl  on  his  mattress,  not 
without  dilliculty,  but  without  injury  or  \n\\n  to  him.  Israel  was  so  weak  that  it  became  necessary  to  haul 
him  i)art  of  the  way.  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  and  Private  Whisler  barely  managed  to  drag  themselves  to 
the  summit  of  the  ridge  where  the  tent  is  located.  They  surely  <  annut  long  survive  the  horrors  of  thi.s  scene  of 
indescribable  desolation  and  misery.  I  caught  only  ten  pounds  of  shrimps.  My  strength  was  not  e(|ual  to 
managing  the  kelp-rake  to-day.  Long  saw  a  skua  at  the  open  water,  and  heard  the  hoarse  bellowing  of 
several  walrus.  Frederi(  k  has  labored  t;iithfully  all  day  to  erect  the  shelter  in  front  of  the  tent,  and  in 
making  the  sick  comfortable.  Ralston  died  at  i  a.  m.  His  end  to  all  ap|)earances  w.is  painless.  The 
remains  were  not  buried  to-day  owing  to  the  extreme  weakness  of  some  of  our  strongest  men. 

Saturday,  A/ny  24,  1884. — A  slight  fall  of  snow  occurred  this  afternoon  and  evening;  temperature  at 
12.30  a,  m.,  +19.0  [  —  7.2°  C.J,  and  at  6  a.  m.,  +24.0  [  —  4.4°  C'.].  Dr.  Pavy,  Salor,  Long,  anil  myself 
slept  in  the  old  shanty  last  night.  It  is  damp,  cheerless,  and  pretty  well  dismantleil,  being  almost  without 
a  roof.  Frederick  and  Long  workeil  faithfully  all  day  at  this  place  to  get  sufficient  canvas  to  complete  the 
annexed  shelter  to  the  tent.  I  overhauled  the  effects,  including  w  ills,  final  statements,  &c.,  of  those  of  our 
comrades  who  have  died,  and  placed  them  in  condition  for  transportation  home.  Later  in  the  day  I  caught 
thirteen  pounds  of  shrimps  and  one  pound  of  kelp.  The  water  has  broken  into  the  tloe  for  a  considerable 
distance  this  side  of  the  first  rocky  point  south  of  the  shrimjiing  grounds,  and  Smith  Sound  is  now  an  open 
sea  with  scarcely  a  fragment  of  drifting  ice  in  sight.  Ralston's  remains  were  committed  to  the  frozen  earth 
this  morning  before  breakfast.  Whisler  died  at  noon.  Dr.  Pavy  asserts  that  his  death  was  premature,  and 
that  it  was  hastened  through  fear  and  dread  of  being  carried  otT  by  starvation.  Could  he  have  had  an 
ample  supply  of  nutritious  food  throughout  the  winter,  no  cause  for  fear  would  have  existed.  Schneider's 
face  is  quite  badly  swollen.  This  is  probably  the  result  of  eating  saxifrage,  which  now  enters  largely  into 
our  diet  as  a  substitute  for  the  sea  vegetation  which  I  am  no  longer  able  to  obtain.  Owing  to  a  great  dimi- 
nution of  strength  I  have  caught  only  a  small  quantity  of  kelp  in  the  last  week.  Israel,  Connell,  Biederbick, 
and  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  are  much  weaker  than  yesterday.  Israel  cannot  long  survive  the  horrors  of 
this  hated  place,  and  the  others  will  follow  quickly  if  game  is  not  soon  taken.  A  skua  was  heard  in  the 
rocks  near  the  tent  to-day.  The  doctor  works  like  a  Trojan  in  assisting  the  sick,  and  in  doing  various  little 
offices  to  improve  the  condition  of  those  about  him.  Caterpillars  are  now  quite  numerous  on  the  bare  spots 
in  the  vicinity  of  Cemetery  Ridge.  Yesterday  Bender  saw  one  of  these  animals  crawling  over  a  rock  near 
the  tent,  and  after  watching  it  intently  for  a  moment  he  hastily  transferred  it  to  his  mouth,  remarking  as  he 
did  so,  "This  is  too  much  meat  to  lose." 

Sunday,  May  25,  1884. — A  southeast  wind  began  blowing  at  10  a.  m.,  and  during  the  entire  day  it 
continued  with  great  velocity  from  the  same  direction.  In  the  evening  it  had  increased  to  a  moderate  gale, 
and  with  the  heavy  cloud  of  blinding  drift,  and  the  thickly  falling  flakes  of  snow,  I  was  prevented  from 
making  my  daily  journey  to  the  shrimping  grounds,  though  the  demand  and  necessity  for  it  was  great.  We 
buried  Whisler  after  dinner,  when  the  storm  was  at  its  height. 


520 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Four  of  us  still  sleep  in  the  dismantled  and  abandoned  winter  house,  which  now  aiTords  but  little  pro- 
tection against  these  severe  storms,  liut  there  is  no  remedy  for  the  matter,  as  our  strength  is  not  equal  to 
the  task  of  getting  out  the  canvas  necessary  lor  the  construction  of  a  shelter  large  enough  to  accommodate 
our  entire  i)arty.  My  (lod,  this  life  is  horrible!  it  is  burdensome,  and  it  plunges  one  into  the  lowest  de])ths 
of  despair.  Will  this  continual  scene  of  suftering  and  death  never  change?  Will  assistance  never  arrive? 
But  I  will  not  succumb  at  this  hour;  while  strength  remains  I  will  do  everything  that  is  possible  to  assist  the 
sick,  and  those  who  are  less  fortunate  than  I. 

Seal-skin  thongs  cut  into  small  jjieces  were  intro(hiced  in  the  shrimp  stew  this  morning.  A  small 
quantity  of  this  skin  was  also  burned  to  a  cinder  on  the  lire  and  then  ravenously  devoured  by  the  hungry 
party. 

Monday,  Alay  26,  1884. — Soon  after  midnight  the  gale  abated  to  a  fresh  wind,  and  throughout  the 
forenoon  the  weather  was  particularly  enjoy.ible.  The  temperature  this  evening  was  +26.0  [  —^.2,°  C.|;  in 
the  sun  the  thermometer  registered  +46.5  [  +  8.1°  (.".].  A\'ith  the  excej  ion  of  Dr.  I'avy  and  myself,  every 
one  ai)pears  in  better  condition  than  yesterday. 

Schneider  was  detected  in  the  act  of  stealing  food  (shrimps  and  tea),  and  he  was  also  accused  of  making 
unfair  divisions  in  the  issue  of  these  articles.  He  was  relieved  from  the  duties  of  cook,  and  Bender,  who 
volunteered  for  the  duty,  has  been  given  the  place.  'I'he  two  messes  were  consolidated  some  time  ago,  and 
one  cook  now  does  the  work  for  both.  For  the  tirst  time  this  year,  sufficient  fresh  water  to  jirepare  a  meal 
was  collected  from  the  pools  among  the  rocks. 

Slopes  having  a  southern  exposure  are  in  many  places  entirely  devoid  of  snow.  The  sun  is  making  sad 
havoc  with  the  drifts  near  by.  The  sea  has  again  encroached,  and  is  now  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
shrimping  ground.  Smith  Sound  is  entirely  open.  1  caught  eight  pounds  of  shrimps  and  two  pounds  of 
vegetation  before  breakfast  this  morning.  I'nder  ordinary  physical  conditions,  I  could  have  obtained  a 
much  greater  (piantity,  but  owing  to  excessive  weakness,  and  a  dull  throbbing  in  my  head,  which  produced 
a  feeling  of  faintness,  I  was  forced  to  desist.  In  the  evening,  however,  feeling  somewhat  better,  I  went 
down  again,  returning  at  about  midnight  with  twelve  pounds  more.  The  few  inferior  shrimp  baits  now  in 
use  I  will  endeai'or  to  extend  until  June  1,  but  after  that  date,  unless  we  get  game,  our  only  resource  will  be 
kelp,  saxifrage,  and  the  small  rock  lichen  [l)ij><-  tie  loi/n)  which  grows  here  in  abundap-e  on  the  rocks.  A 
few  garments  of  seal-skin,  boots  of  the  same  material,  together  with  our  oil-tanned  sldning-bag  covers,  will 
have  to  be  used  by  us  as  a  substitute  for  meat.  To-day  the  soles  from  an  old  pair  ol  m  .il-skin  boots,  with  a 
few  shrimps,  provided  us  with  a  breakfast  and  dinner.  Long  saw  several  king-ducks  at  the  open  water  this 
morning,  but  they  were  so  exceedinglji  timid  that  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  get  a  shot.  He,  however, 
succeeded  in  killing  two  dovekies,  both  of  which  were  drifted  away  by  the  ebbing  tide.  A  thermometer 
lying  on  the  ground  inside  the  tent  registered  +33.0  [  +  0.6°  C],  and  one  suspended  four  feet  [1.2'"]  above 
the  ground,  +52.0  [+11.1°  C.J. 

Tiii'Sihn\  Miiy  27,  1884. — In  the  morning  the  sky  was  clear  and  cloudless;  in  the  afternoon  a  southerly 
gale  set  in,  which  continued  until  after  7  o'clock;  temperature  at  8  a.  m.,  +24.0  [—4.4°  C.| — the  same 
thermometer  exposed  in  the  sun  soon  afterwards,  +55.0  [-f  la-S"  C.].  Israel,  the  youngest  member  of  our 
party,  ])assed  away  just  after  midnight,  dying  very  easily.  After  losing  consciousness — about  eleven  hours 
before  his  de.ath — he  talked  of  food,  restaurants,  i\;c.  Every  one  was  his  friend.  He  had  no  enemies.  His 
frankness,  his  honesty,  and  his  noble  generosity  of  nature  had  won  the  hearts  of  all  his  companions.  His 
unswerving  integrity  during  these  months  of  agony  has  been  a  .shining  example;  and,  although  his  sacrifices 
were  lost  to  a  few,  still  the  effect  has  produced  good  fruit.  For  lack  of  strength  we  could  not  bury  him 
to-day. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  day  was  spent  in  erecting  a  shelter  immediately  in  front  of  the  tent,  and  to- 
night we  will  all  sleep  together  for  the  first  time.  After  working  on  this  structure  for  some  time,  I  was  too 
much  exhausted  to  go  shrimping;  so,  weak  and  sore,  I  retired  with  the  others  to  sleep  away  fatigue  and 
care.  Long  saw  myriads  of  king-ducks  on  the  floe's  edge  at  the  open  water,  but  to  secure  them  was  an 
utter  impossibility,  owing  to  their  shyness.  Water  sufficient  for  supper  .md  nearly  enough  for  breakfast  was 
obtaineil  from  the  pools  among  the  rocks  near  our  tent.  A  heated  di.scussion  regarding  the  medical  supplies 
took  place  between  Lieutenant  Cireely  and  Doctor  Pavy  this  evening.  I  have  not  the  strength,  interest,  nor 
inclination  to  record  the  details  of  this  quarrel.     The  latter's  mind  is  evidently  somewhat  clouded. 

lVeJnestiay,  May  28,  1884. — A  cold,  disagreeable  day;  light  easterly  winds  and  cloudy  weather;  tem- 
perature at  2  p.  m.,  -I-24.0  [—4,4°  Cj.     I  caught  nine  pounds  of  shrimps,  and  Long  returned  from  the  open 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


521 


water  with  a.  dovekie.  He  had  killed  another,  but  it  drifted  away  from  him  to  the  open  sea.  Many  king 
and  eider  ducks  were  observed.  The  dovekie,  by  general  acclamation,  was  ordered  to  be  reserved  for  Long 
and  myself,  that  our  strength  niight  be  maintained. 

A  large  portion  of  the  floe  near  the  shrimping  grounds  was  again  broken  off  last  night.  The  sound  is 
now  as  open  and  as  free  from  ice  as  it  was  in  August,  1881,  when  we  steamed  northward  in  the  Protfus.  If 
there  is  a  party  .at  Littleton  Island  why  does  it  not  come  to  our  rescue  while  there  is  yet  time  to  save  a  few 
lives?  There  are  now  no  obstacles  to  be  encountered  in  crossing  this  expanse  of  water.  At  noon  to-day 
Israel  was  buried  on  Cemetery  Ridge.  The  invalids  are  in  about  the  same  condition  as  yesterday.  Doctor 
Pavy  thinks  that  a  few  have  symptoins  of  scurvy.  I  shall  never  forget  the  delicacy  of  flavor  of  the  dovekie 
stew  which  I  ate  this  evening.  Delmonico's  tempting  dishes — of  which  we  have  frequent  visions — were  for- 
gotten in  the  enjoyment  of  the  moment. 

Thursday,  May  29,  1884. — Clear  and  calm  weather  in  the  forenoon,  but  at  i  p.  m.  the  sky  clouded,  and 
almost  immediately  afterwards  a  southeast  g..ie  burst  upon  us,  causing  a  furious  drift  and  defying  all  our 
efforts  at  protection  in  this  rude  shelter.  Inside  the  tent,  however,  they  are  screened  from  the  full  fury  of  the 
blast,  but  still  their  lot  is  far  from  being  a  j)leasant  one.  The  shelter  in  which  several  of  us  were  lying  was 
first  blown  full  of  snowand  gravel,  and  then  the  whole  structure  was  blown  down;  the  poles  which  had  sup- 
ported the  canvas  fell  in  such  a  position  as  to  lie  across  our  bodies.  Long  was  driven  from  the  etlge  of  the 
ice  by  the  appro.-ich  of  the  storm,  and  joining  me  at  the  shrimping  grounds,  we  returned  together  to  the  camp, 
which  we  reached  only  after  a  desperate  struggle.  I  had  taken  eight  jwunds  of  shrimps  and  Long  brought  in 
one  dovekie.  I  went  to  the  old  hut  for  wood ;  the  storm  meanwhile  increased  in  violence  and  I  was  confined 
within  the  walls  of  tiiat  dreary  prison  for  two  long  and  weary  hours.  On  returning  to  the  tent  Doctor  Pavy 
and  Salor  refused  to  admit  me  to  their  sleeping-bag,  in  which  I  occupied  a  place.  Physically  I  could  not 
enforce  my  rights  in  this  matter,  my  condition  bordering  on  utter  exhaustion,  and  wishing  to  avoiil  any 
unpleasantness  I  crawled  into  one  of  the  abandoned  bags  lying  outside  as  the  only  alternative.  This  bag 
was  frozen  and  filled  with  snow.     Can  my  sufferings  be  imagined?     They  certainly  cannot  be  described. 

Owing  to  the  severity  of  the  gale  we  were  unable  to  cook  our  scanty  supper  of  shrimps,  and  in  conse- 
(juence  nothing  was  eaten  this  evening. 

Notwithstanding  that  I  gave  directions  to  the  cooks  yesterday  that  all  scraps  and  pieces  of  seal-skin 
were  to  be  considereil  public  property.  Bender  was  found  eating  some  to-day.  Me  freely  confessed  his  guilt, 
but  said  in  explanation  that,  owing  to  hunger,  he  could  not  resist  the  tem])tation.  I  told  Frederick  to  collect 
everything  in  the  line  of  seal-skin  that  is  eatable,  so  tiiat  I  could  lock  it  up  until  it  is  wanted.  Temperature 
at  9  a.  m.,  +  27.0  [  —  2.8°  C.]. 

Friday,  May  30,  1884 — Light  westerly  winds  accompanied  by  snow  have  prevailed  all  day;  tempera- 
ture at  10  a.  m.,  -f  29.0  [—1.7°  C.J;  and  at  3  p.  m.,  4-  27.0  [  —  2.8°  C.].  The  gaic  of  ye.sterday,  to  which 
I  was  exposed  in  one  of  the  sleeping-bags  outside,  did  not  subside  until  after  midnight.  I  passed  a  wretched 
and  awful  night,  unprotected  as  I  was  from  the  pitiless  storm  which  howled  about  in  all  its  wild  fury.  A  large 
snow-drift  accumulated  inside  and  about  my  sleeping-bag,  and  my  hands,  feet,  and  face  were  terribly  swollen 
in  consequence  of  this  unusual  and  uiuiecessary  exposure.  Suffering  with  rheumatism,  and  smarting  under 
the  sense  of  wrong  done  me  by  my  sleeping-bag  companions,  mental  agony  was  added  to  physical  torture. 

Our  breakfast  of  shrimps  was  eaten  at  10  a.  m.;  we  had  fasted  for  twenty-six  hours.  To-day  I  caught . 
six  pounds  of  shrimps.  The  last  piece  of  bait  which  I  possess  was  placed  in  the  net,  but  it  will  last  for  a 
few  days  yet.  1  saw  three  brant  geese,  two  dovekies,  and  hundreds  of  king  and  eider  ducks,  but  they  are  all, 
except  the  dovekies,  beyond  our  reach.  I  cannot  understand  how  we  manage  to  survive  on  six  to  ten 
pounds  of  shrimps  per  day,  but  I  suppose  the  vegetables  and  seal-skin  possess  more  nutriment  than  we  imagine. 
Those  who  are  too  weak  to  work  seem  to  retain  wonderfully  well  the  little  vitality  they  have  left.  Doctor 
Pavy,  Long,  Frederick,  and  myself,  are  failing  and  weakening  fast.  A  few  days  more  and  this  struggle  for 
existence  will  be  forever  over.  Our  shelter  was  repaired  to-day,  and  it  is  now  much  more  substantial  than 
ever.     A  northwest  gale  began  at  9.  p.  m. 

Saturday,  May  31,  1884. — A  heavy  snow- storm  joined  the  gale  of  last  evening,  and  both  continued  all 
day  with  undiminished  fury.  Not  only  were  we  held  close  pri.soncrs  in  our  poor  shelter,  but  we  were  al.so 
confined  to  our  sleeping-bags  on  account  ot  the  driving  drift,  which  covered  us  to  a  depth  of  over  a  foot. 
We  were  unable  to  cook  anything,  ami  as  no  solid  food  had  been  prepared  in  advance,  nothing  has  i)assed 
our  lips  to-day — not  even  a  swallow  of  water.  Of  all  the  days  of  misery  and  suffering  in  my  life  that  I  can 
recall  to  memory,  there  are  none  which  will  compare  with  the  tortures  which  I  have  oorne  during  the  last 
few  hours.    If,  possessing  the  gift  of  divining  the  future,  I  should  discover  that  I  had  yet  another  month  of 


522 


TUB  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


i 


ii 


this  terrible  existence  before  me,  I  would  at  once  end  everything.  When  I  shall  have  attained  the  age  of 
three  score  and  ten  years,  if  fifty  years  from  the  l)est  portion  of  my  life  were  offered  me  as  an  inducement  to 
endure  again  the  agony  of  the  past  month,  I  would  reject  it  as  an  insufficient  reward. 

In  my  daily  journeyings  across  Cemetery  Ridge,  it  was  but  natural  at  first  that  my  reflections  should  be 
sad  and  gloomy.  There  lie  my  departed  comrades,  and  to  their  left  is  the  vacant  space,  where,  in  a  few  days, 
my  remains  will  be  deposited,  if  suffi';ient  strength  remains  t(^  those  who  may  survive  me.  The  brass  buttons 
on  Lieutenant  Lockwood's  blouse,  scoured  bright  by  the  flying  gravel,  protrude  through  the  scanty  covering 
of  earth  which  our  depleted  strength  barely  enabled  us  to  place  over  him.  At  first  these  dazzling  buttons 
would  awaken  thoughts  of  those  bright  days  so  joyously  spent  with  him  at  Fort  Conger,  and  of  the  half- 
forgotten  scene  of  his  death  and  the  universal  sorrow  that  was  felt  at  his  departure;  but  later  my  Otvn 
wretched  condition  served  to  counteract  these  feelings,  and  I  can  now  pass  and  repass  the  place  without 
emotion  and  almost  with  indifference. 

Sunday,  yiine  i,  1884. — The  gale  abated  at  i  a.  m.,  and  immediately  afterwards  we  turned  out  of  our 
comfortless  quarters  to  remove  the  snow  which  had  accumulateil  to  a  considerable  depth  over  us.  The  snow 
had  also  penetrated  to  the  interior  of  our  sleeping-bags,  and  they  were  necessarily  subjected  to  a  thorough^ 
process  of  beating  and  shaking.  Ureakfast  consisicil  of  only  three  ounces  of  shrimps  and  a  cup  of  tea  to 
each  man.  This,  however,  is  a  fair  sample  of  OL.r  daily  fare.  Just  how  we  manage  to  exist  on  this  meager 
and  almost  worthless  food,  is  a  subject  worthy  of  careful  study.  Hut  we  have  no  conception  of  what  the 
human  frame  is  capable  of  enduring  until  put  to  the  test.  All  are  very  weak  and  much  depressed ;  this 
especially  is  the  condition  of  those  who  were  exposed  last  night  to  the  fury  of  the  storm  in  that  wretched 
shelter,  and  who,  like  the  others,  have  fasted  for  tliirty-six  hours. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury  became  unconscious  at  8  a.  m.,  and  at  3  p.  m.  he  breathed  his  last.  The 
beautiful  Episcopal  service  was  read  after  his  death,  in  accorilance  with  the  custom  established  by  Lieutenant 
Greely  upon  the  occasion  of  our  first  funeral.  He  begged  piteously  for  a  drink  of  water  ju  '  before  he 
became  unconscious,  but  this  the  doctor  denied  him  on  tlie  grounds  of  its  injurious  tendency.  He  then 
sang  the  doxology  in  a  weak  but  clear  voice,  and  sinking  back  in  his  bag  he  was  soon  in  the  cold  embrace 
of  death. 

The  sky  cleared  at  8  a.  m.,  and  the  sun  came  out  bright  and  clear.  The  weathei  remained  in  this 
way  until  3  p.  m.,  when  the  sky  again  clouded  and  light  snow  began  falling.  Temperature  at  10  a.  m., 
+35.0  [+1.7°  C.].  Pools  of  water  are  forming  among  the  rocks  and  in  depressions  of  the  ground  near  the 
tent.  A  sufficient  supply  of  water  for  two  days'  use  was  collected  by  the  cooks  this  morning.  It  is  very 
fortunate  that  we  are  enabled  to  secure  water  without  melting  ice,  as  our  fuel  is  fast  disappearing.  Frederick 
relieved  Bender  from  the  duties  of  cook,  owing  to  the  illness  of  the  latter.  Long  shot  a  dovekie  to-day. 
By  the  recoil  of  his  gun  one  of  his  eyes  was  seriously  injured,  and  it  became  necessary  for  me  to  lead  him 
home.  1  caught  eight  pounds  of  shrimps.  The  snow  is  so  very  deep  and  soft  that  of  the  seven  hours  which 
we  were  absent  five  were  spent  in  walking  to  the  open  water  and  in  returning  to  the  tent,  leaving  only  two 
for  fishing.  We  were  weak  and  faint  from  exhaustion  when  we  returned  to  the  tent.  My  knees  and  joints 
are  so  stiff  and  so  much  swollen  and  inflamed  that  1  am  inca|)able  of  bending  the  knee,  and  while  in  the 
act  of  walking  it  is  necessary  for  me  to  swing  my  feet  outward  instead  of  lifting  them  directly  from  the 
ground.  Flocks  of  king,  eider,  and  long-tailed  ducks  were  seen  by  Long  to-day.  He  also  saw  several 
dovekies  and  a  few  gulls. 

Monday,  ynne  2,  1884. — A  clear  and  beautiful  day:  a  southeast  wind  sprang  up  at  8  p.m.  The 
temperature  at  the  time  was  +35.0  [-f  1.7°  C.j.  The  snow,  which  is  already  very  damp  and  soft,  is  disap- 
I)earing  rapidly  under  the  influence  of  the  sun.  The  ice -foot  was  also  percejjtibly  diminished  to-day.  Water 
in  abundance  can  now  be  obtained  from  pools  among  the  rocks.  After  an  absence  of  over  seven  hours  1 
returned  with  only  five  pounds  of  shrimps.  My  baits  are  almost  useless  for  further  fishing.  Lieutenant 
Kislingbury  was  buried  this  morning.  Schneider  is  no  longer  able  to  work ;  Bender  is  but  little  better  off, 
and  Lieutenant  Greely  and  Gardiner  are  very  weak.  Saior  l)ecame  delirious  at  7  p.  m.  Long  shot  a  dove- 
kie. He  saw  very  few  ducks  to-day.  The  large  numbers  seen  yesterday  were  probably  due  to  the  southeast 
gale,  which  drove  them  to  this  side  from  their  favorite  liaunts  about  Littleton  Island.  Vast  fields  of  ice  are 
now  moving  down  the  sound.  If  these  were  to  ciioke  in  the  narrow  part  of  the  sound  it  might  have  the 
effect  of  driving  the  birds  and  seals  to  this  side  of  the  channel. 

Tuesday,  yunc  3,  1884. — Fair  weather;  a  moderate  wind  blew  steadily  all  day  from  the  southeast,  and 
the  snow  thawed  considerably.  Water  •: ickled  from  the  lieavy  drifts  on  the  hillside  and  formed  near  the 
tent  in  large  pools,  from  which  we  draw  ample  quantities  for  cooking  purposes.     Temperature  at  8  p.  m., 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


523 


4-31.0  [—0.60  C],  Owing  to  windy  weather  Long  did  not  go  out  to-day.  I  caught  only  six  pounds  of 
shrimps.  While  absent  this  morning  I  heard  a  walrus  bellowing  near  "  Disappointment  Berg."  Salor  died 
at  3  a.  ni.  We  were  lying  together  in  the  same  bag  at  the  time,  and  having  neither  the  strength  to  remove 
the  remains  nor  the  inclination  to  get  up  myself  I  slepf  quietly  until  9  o'clock,  when  breakfast  was  announced. 
There  has  been  no  material  change  since  yesterday  in  the  condition  of  the  invalids.  The  three  or  four 
dovekies  which  have  been  killed  were  divided  between  J.ong  and  myself,  and  we  find  thnt  they  have  per- 
ceptibly added  to  our  strength,  thus  enabling  us  to  pursue  with  fair  success  our  respective  functions  as  hunter 
and  shrimper. 

Doctor  Pavy  talked  rather  incoherently  this  evening,  and  he  also  made  some  rather  absurd  prescrip- 
tions. His  mind  is  evidently  somewhat  obscured.  For  several  days  past  he  has  eaten  very  little ;  in  fiict 
at  meals  he  has  taken  nothing  except  tea.  For  weeks  past  I  have  noticed  that  Linn's  feet  were  protruding 
from  the  gravel  heaped  over  his  frozen  form.  Day  by  day  tlie  elements  have  reduced  this  scanty  covering 
of  earfh,  until  his  lower  extremities  were  exposed  to  the  furious  gales  which  sweep  over  the  dreary  solitudes 
of  Cemetery  Ridge.  I  have  often  thought  that  I  would  replace  that  which  had  blown  away,  but  my  waning 
strength  impelled  me  to  defer  this  from  time  to  time,  and  now  I  am  too  weak  to  attempt  it. 

Wednesday  yunc  4,  1884. — A  beautiful  day;  temperature  at  11  a.  m.,  +32.0  [0.0°  C.].  In  the  sun, 
however,  it  rose  to  ■•■62.0  [-f- 16.7°  C.].  The  high  wind  of  yesterday  abated  at  6  a.  m.,  but  it  again  sprang 
up  in  the  evening.  The  invalids  are  about  the  same  as  they  were  yesterday,  except  Doctor  Pavy,  who  is  rapidly 
losing  both  his  mental  and  physical  vigor.  I  caught  seven  pounds  of  shrimps  and  Long  shot  a  dovekie. 
He  also  killed  a  king-duck  and  an  auk,  but  both  were  lost.  Frederick,  assisted  occasionally  by  Henry,  is 
doing  all  the  work  about  the  camp,  which  includes  cooking,  gathering  saxifrage  for  fuel,  and  cutting  wood 
from  the  boat.  Schneider  manages  to  bring  the  salt  water  used  in  shrimp  stews,  but  he  can  do  nothing 
more.  Owing  to  their  inability  to  move  about.  Bender  and  Connell  are  doing  very  little  work  to  assist  the 
others.  During  the  last  few  days  I  have  eaten  a  great  many  of  the  dark-coiored  rock  lichens  (tripe  de  roclu) 
which  abound  here,  and  I  have  invariably  found  them  ijuite  palatable  and  not  in  the  least  injurious  to  the 
stomach,  the  experiences  of  Franklin  and  Hayes  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding.  Lieutenant  Greely  and 
several  others,  including  myself,  are  of  the  opinion  that  they  possess  considerable  nutriment,  and  we  seriously 
contemplate  using  them  as  an  article  of  diet  in  the  near  future. 

Smith  Sound  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  to-day;  there  is  not  a  piece  of  ice  in  sight,  and  its  surface  is 
as  smooth  as  glass  and  as  clear  as  a  polished  mirror.  How  easily  we  could  be  reacheil  by  a  relief  vessel,  or 
by  a  boat  party  from  Littleton  Island.  Not  feeling  strong  enough  to  make  a  grave  for  Salor  in  the  gravelly 
soil  on  Cemete.y  Ridge,  we  placed  his  remains  where  they  will  be  inaccessible  to  the  wild  animals — in  the 
tidal  crack.  I  was  very  weak  and  faint  this  morning,  but  the  feeling  in  a  measure  passed  away  before  night, 
and  I  was  enabled  as  usual  to  go  shrimping. 

Thursday,  yune  5,  1884. — Fair  weather;  light  westerly  winds,  and  temperature  at  4  p.  m.,  +34.0 
[  + 1.1°  C.].  Doctor  Pavy  is  very  much  reduced  in  strength ;  he  refuses  to  partake  of  the  shrimp  stew,  and  is 
kept  alive  by  weak  tea  alone.  I  caught  five  pounds  of  shrimps.  Long  was  not  successful  in  his  hunting 
operations  to-day.  Reindeer  moss,  in  small  quantities,  has  been  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  tent, 
and  was  at  once  used  to  augment  our  stews.  The  vegetation  of  this  place,  comprising  poppies,  saxifrage, 
grasses,  &c.,  are  looking  quite  green,  and  the  patches  of  moss  situated  in  damp  places  are  growing  rapidly. 

The  thievish  propensity  of  Henry  has  again  manifested  itself,  and  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  few  survive 
Lieutenant  Greely  has  deemed  it  necessary  to  issue  to  Long,  Frederick,  and  myself  an  imperative  order  to 
shoot  him  without  delay  if  he  is  again  detected  in  the  act  of  aijpropriating  to  his  exclusive  use  any  article  of 
food  belonging  to  the  public  stores.     The  following  is  a  true  copy  of  the  order : 

"Near  Cape  Sabine,  ymic  5,  1884. 
"To  Sergeants  Brainard,  Frederick,  and  Long:       ■ 

"  Private  Henry  having  been  repeatedly  guilty  of  stealing  the  provisions  of  this  party,  which  is  now 
perishirg  slowly  by  starvation,  has  so  far  been  condoned  and  jjardoned. 

"It  is  however  imperatively  ordered,  that  if  this  man  be  detected  either  eating  food  of  any  kind  not 
issued  him  regularly,  or  making  caches,  or  appropriating  any  article  of  provision,  you  will  at  once  shoot  him 
and  report  the  matter  to  me.  Any  other  course  would  be  a  fatal  leniency,  the  man  being  able  to  overpower 
any  two  of  our  present  force. 

"A.  W.  Greely, 
"  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

"  Commanding;;  Ludy  Franklin  Bay  Expedition." 


m 


524 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


Henry,  who  wns  acting  as  assistant  to  Frederick  the  cook,  had  taken  advantage  of  the  absence  of  the 
latter,  and  twice  stole  the  greater  jjortion  of  the  dovekie  intended  for  the  hunter  and  shrimper.  He  was  also 
seen  eating  seal-skin  lashings  and  seal-skin  boots,  botli  of  which  were  stolen  from  the  public  stock. 

Ffiday,  yune  6,  1884.  Clear  weather;  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  3  p.  m.,  +34.0  [+ 1.1°  C.J, 
and  at  6  p.  m.,  +30.0  [  — i.i^C.].  I  fished  for  the  tantalizing  shrimps  for  more  than  seven  hours,  catching 
only  two  and  one-half  pounds.  My  baits  are  almost  woithiess  now.  What  am  I  to  do  in  order  to  con 
tinue  this,  our  only  food  supply  ?  I  have  tried  everything  at  hand,  but  with  no  favorable  result.  I  would 
again  drag  for  the  sea  vegetation,  but  my  failing  strength  is  not  eiiual  to  the  task;  I  can  do  nothing  moie 
than  stagger  down  to  the  shrimping  place  and  return. 

In  view  of  the  fact  that  Henry  has  again  made  a  bold  and  boastful  admission  of  his  guilty  crimes  (and 
crimes  they  are)  and  was  this  morning  detected  in  the  act  of  perpetrating  another.  Lieutenant  Greely  has 
caused  the  following  order  to  be  issued : 

"Near  Cape  Sabine,  yune 6,  1884. 
"  Sergeants  Brainarp,  Lono,  and  Frederick  : 

"  Notwithstanding  promises  given  by  Private  C.  B.  Henry  yesterday,  he  has  since,  as  acknowledged  to 
me,  tampered  with  seal-thongs  if  not  other  food  at  tlie  old  camp.  This  pertinacity  and  audacity  is  the 
destruction  of  this  party  if  not  at  once  ended.  Private  Henry  will  be  shot  to-day,  all  care  being  taken  to 
prevent  his  injuring  any  one,  as  his  physical  strength  is  greater  than  that  of  any  two  men.  Decide  the 
manner  of  death  by  two  ball  and  one  blank  cartridge.  This  order  is  imperative  and  absolutely  necessary  for 
any  chance  of  life. 

"A.  W.  Greely, 
"  First  Lieutenant.  Fifth  Cavalry,  A.  S.  O.  and  Assistant, 

"  Commanding  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition." 

Further  explanation  of  this  is  unnecessary.  The  order  was  duly  executed  at  2  p.  m.,  and  later  it  was 
read  aloud  to  the  assembletl  party.  Although  deploring  the  necessity  for  measures  of  such  extreme  severity, 
all  were  unanimous  in  the  opinion  that  no  other  course  could  have  been  pursued. 

Bender  died  at  5.45  p.  m.,  and  Doctor  Pavy  who  had  been  weakening  rapidly  for  several  days  passed 
away  at  6  o'clock. 

Among  Henry's  effects  were  found  seal-skin  boots  and  thongs,  and  several  large  pieces  of  seal-skin 
clothing,  knives,  ilvc,  all  of  which  he  had  stolen  from  the  general  stores. 

Considerable  ice  was  observed  to  drift  southerly  to-day  along  the  Greenland  coast;  near  Cape  Sabine 
however,  and  in  fact  all  along  the  Ellesmere  Land  coast,  the  water  is  perfectly  free  from  ice.  Flies,  large 
and  very  numerous,  are  very  troublesome  about  the  tent  during  the  warmest  days. 

Saturday,  jfune  7,  1884. — Clear  weather  and  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  +31.0 
[-0.6°  C.]. 

In  addition  to  his  duties  as  cook,  Frederick  is  doing  all  in  his  powei  for  those  who  are  ill.  He  cer- 
tainly is  a  wonderful  fellow.  Long  shot  nothing  to-day,  and  I  took  only  two  pounds  of  shrimps.  The  long 
walks  which  we  take  daily  are  fast  reducing  our  little  remaining  strength. 

I  gathered  together  all  the  seal-skin  which  we  intend  using  for  food.  The  oil-tanned  skin  (that  from 
which  the  hair  has  been  removed)  will  be  used  in  stews;  the  clothing  on  which  the  hair  still  remains  will 
necessarily  be  burned  or  roasted.     I  do  not  find  as  much  of  seal-skin  as  I  had  anticipated. 

Schneider  now  confesses  that  Henry  and  Bender,  in  whose  bag  he  was,  ate  large  quantities  of  this 
clothing  at  night,  they  having  secretly  burned  it  during  the  day.  Biederbick  and  Connell  collected  a  few 
lichens  and  gathered  a  quantity  of  reindeer  moss. 

This  evening  dinner  consisted  of  a  stew  composed  of  two  boot-soles,  a  handful  of  reindeer  moss,  and  a 
few  rock  lichens.  The  small  quantity  of  shrimps  which  I  furnish  daily  are  sufficient  only  for  the  morning 
meal. 

A  small  silver  chronograph  which  was  found  on  Henry's  person  was  abandoned  by  Lieutenant  Greely 
at  Fort  Conger.  Henry  must  have  stolen  it  at  the  last  moment  before  leaving  the  station.  We  dressed  the 
bodies  of  Doctor  Pavy  and  Bender  for  burial,  but  for  the  lack  of  strength  were  unable  to  convey  them  to 
their  last  resting-place. 

Sunday,  yune  8,  1884. — This  has  been  the  clearest,  the  brightest,  and  the  most  enjoyable  day  that  we 
have  yet  spent  on  these  inhospitable  shores;  temperature  at  i  a.m.,  +31.0  f— 0.6°  C.];  at  11  a.  m.,  +38.1^ 
f+3-3°  C.];  at  3  p.  m.,  +38.0  [+3.3°  C.];  at  4  p.  m.,  +40.0  [  +  4.4°  C.];  and  at  6  p.  m.,  +35.0  [+ 1.7°  C.|. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


525 


A  stew  of  less  than  three  ounces  of  shrimps  per  man  was  issued  for  breakfast,  and  a  thin,  unpalatable  dish 
of  seal-skin  thongs  was  served  for  dinner.  Schneider  worked  for  a  long  time  to-day  burning  the  hair  from 
seal-skin  clothing,  so  that  it  could  be  eaten.  A  portion  of  the  garments  so  burned  were  divided  and  eaten 
with  the  soup  at  dinner. 

Lieutenant  Greely  worked  for  five  hours  to-day,  and  in  that  time  he  collected  about  two  quarts  of  lich- 
ens. Connell  gathered  a  quantity  of  saxifrage,  which  is  now  in  full  blossom.  These  flowers  are  very  sweet 
and  palatable,  and  will  in  the  future  be  largely  used  as  an  article  of  diet.  Biederbick  and  Lieutenant  Greely 
collected  about  equal  quantities  of  lichens.  Biederbick  is  quite  ill  this  evening,  having  vomited  copiously. 
He  made  a  discovery  to-day  which  adds  to  the  many  contemptible  acts  of  Henry — that  of  a  small  cache  of 
bear  meat.  Henry  doubtless  stole  this  more  than  a  month  ago,  and  concealed  it  in  the  rocks  above  camp 
for  future  use.  Long  and  I  went  down  to  the  winter  house  and  brought  up  a  quantity  of  wood  for  fuel. 
Our  strength  is  fast  diminishing.  Even  were  we  to  kill  large  game,  it  would  be  impossible  to  bring  it  in 
intact,  on  account  of  our  weakness.  I  wonder  how-  much  longer  we  can  hold  out  on  this  meager  diet  of 
shrimps  and  seal-skin  ?  Not  many  days,  I  am  sure.  If  we  are  saved  at  all,  the  vessel  which  is  to  effect  the 
rescue  must  hasten — we  have  but  few  days  to  live. 

Connell's  gums  are  quite  sore.  This  will  verify  Doctor  Pavy's  predictions,  made  a  few  days  before  his 
own  death,  that  Connell  had  symptoms  of  scurvy.  Schneider's  limbs  are  quite  badly  swollen,  presumably 
from  the  same  cause. 

Monday,  yuiie  9,  1884. — Calm  and  cloudy  weather;  temperature  at  9  a.  m.,  +39.0  [+3.9°  C.];  at  3 
p.  m.,  +38.0  [-1-3.3°  C.];  and  at  6  p.  m.,  -1-38.5  [4-3.6°  C.J.  Our  breakfast  consisted  of  nothing  more 
than  a  few  shrimps  and  the  usual  cup  of  tea ;  for  dinner,  a  few  raw  lichens,  a  piece  of  burned  seal-skin,  and 
a  cup  of  tea  were  served.  Lieutenant  Greely  is  indefatigable  in  his  efforts  to  collect  lich  .  Mr  the  general 
mess.  Connell  appears  quite  strong,  but  he  doubtless  has  incipient  scurvy.  He  gathered  a  quantity  of  sax- 
ifrage for  fuel.  Biederbick  picked  lichens.  Schneider  burned  the  hair  from  the  seal-skin  garments  which 
were  eaten  at  dinner.  Long  shot  a  dovekie  and  a  Brant  goose;  the  latter  drifted  away  by  the  tide  and  was 
lost.  I  caught  only  one-half  pound  of  shrimps.  One  of  my  nets  was  lost  by  the  breaking  of  the  rope  by 
which  it  was  suspended. 

Bender  was  buried  in  the  tidal  crack  this  morning,  and  during  the  evening  the  remains  of  Doctor  Pavy 
were  lowered  into  a  similar  grave.  The  greater  part  of  the  snow  has  disappeared  from  about  our  camp,  and 
I  now  frequently  observe  traces  of  hares,  and  yesterday  I  found  a  bimch  of  musk-ox  wool.  The  former, 
however,  were  not  recently  made.  I  also  discovered  a  few  fragments  of  bone  and  wood,  the  latter  bearing 
evidence  of  having  been  worked  by  the  Eskimo.  All  these  relics  recently  found  tend  to  strengthen  my 
former  opinion  on  this  subject,  viz,  that  the  Eskimo  inhabited  these  regions  previous  to  their  migration  north- 
ward to  Lady  Franklin  Bay.  Among  the  other  very  interesting  things  found  here  is  a  piece  of  drift-wood) 
which  I  found  lying  among  the  rocks  fifteen  feet  [4.5'"]  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Long's  thirty-second 
birthday;  he  received  a  spoonful  of  rum  in  honor  of  the  occasion. 

Tuesday,  June  10,  1884. — Weather  cloudy  until  4  p.  m.,  when  the  sky  cleared  and  the  sun  came  out 
beautifully;  temperature  at  i  a.m.,  -|-34.o  [-}-i.i°C.];  at  8  a.  m.,  -H32.8  [-^-o.4°  C],  and  at  12  m., -f.40.0 
[4-4.4°  C.].  Gardiner  is  a  great  deal  worse ;  the  others,  however,  are  not  visibly  changed.  Long  and  myself 
felt  greatly  refreshed  and  strengthened  by  the  portion  of  dovekie  stew  which  was  accorded  us  by  the  party 
in  consideration  of  the  severe  strain  which  we  undergo  in  hunting  and  shrimping.  For  dinner  the  lichens 
were  prepared  in  the  form  of  a  stew,  and  I  think  they  were  generally  well  liked.  After  boiling  them  for  a  few 
minutes  they  became  greatly  svvoUcn  and  the  water  soon  assumed  the  color  of  tar  and  the  consistency  of 
thick  sirup.  These  will  now  become  our  staple  article  of  food  until  the  supply  is  exhausted.  "  Disappoint, 
inent  Berg  "  is  now  connected  with  the  open  water  by  wide  lanes.  Disintegration  of  the  floe  in  Buchanan 
Strait  is  likely  to  occur  at  any  moment.  The  snow  on  this  low  point  has  entirely  disappeared  from  the 
rocks  and  from  exposed  places ;  in  the  ravines  and  depressions,  where  the  sun  cannot  penetrate  readily,  it 
has  become  soft  and  slushy.  Saxifrage  is  now  in  blossom  and  ready  for  pressing.  The  scanty  tufts  of 
grass  are  looking  (juite  green. 

To  day  I  saw  a  bumble-bee  flitting  about  among  the  saxifrage  blossoms  and  was  reminded  that  summer 
had  come  at  last.  Its  approach  has  been  so  gradual  that  we  can  scarcely  realize  that  it  is  here.  After 
fishing  for  several  hours,  I  gave  up  in  despair,  having  caught  only  two  pounds  of  shrimps. 

Wednesday,  June  11,1 884. — A  clear,  cloudless  and  beautiful  day ;  light  west  winds;  temperature  at  3  p. 
m.,  +40.0  [-1-4.4°  C.],and  at  8  p.  m.,  -I-38.0  [-f  3.3°  C.J.    In  the  sun  the  thermometer  indicated  a  temperature 


526 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


of  +62.0  [+16.7°  C.].  Long  returned  at  1.30  a.  m.  from  the  open  water,  bringing  with  him  two  fine  guil- 
lemots which  he  had  killed.  One  of  these  was  given  to  the  general  mess  and  the  two  other  will  be  divided 
among  those  who  are  doing  the  heavy  work  for  their  weaker  companions.  This  evening  a  great  misfortune 
befell  me.  The  spring  tides  have  broken  out  the  ice  at  the  shrimping  place,  and  my  nets  have  been  carried 
away  and  lost;  my  baits,  poor  and  miserable  as  they  were,  are  gone  also.  It  is  anything  but  pleasant  to 
reflect  that  to-morrow  morning  we  will  have  no  breakfast  except  a  cup  of  tea.  It  was  cjuite  late  when  I 
returned  this  evening  from  shrimping,  and  everybody  had  retired.  I  did  not  have  the  heart  to  awaken  the  poor 
fellows,  but  I  let  them  sleep  on  quietly  under  the  delusion  that  breakfast  would  await  them  at  the  usual  hour 
in  the  morning.     How  I  pity  them ! 

I  made  a  flag,  or  distress  signal,  as  it  might  be  more  properly  termed,  which  I  intend  placing  on  the 
high,  rocky  point  just  north  of  our  tent,  where  it  may  be  seen  by  any  vessel  passing  Cape  Sabine.  Schneider 
is  not  able  to  go  out  of  doors  to-day,  and  Gardiner  is  much  worse  than  he  was  yesterday.  Lieutenant  Greely 
is  suffering  with  dysentery  and  could  not  go  out  as  usu;H  for  lichens.  Biederbick  climbed  the  hill  to  gather 
lichens  from  the  rocks  for  our  evening  stew.  He  complained  of  faintness,  but  his  indomitable  will  would 
not  succumb  to  physical  weakness.     We  began  using  the  compressed  English  tea  this  evening. 

There  is  scarcely  a  fragment  of  ice  in  Smith  Sound.  Why  do  not  the  whalers  arrive  soon  to  rescue 
from  their  perilous  situation  the  few  survivors  who  so  anxiously  await  their  coming  ? 

Thursday,  yune  12,  1884. — The  day  opened  clear  and  fine,  with  light  winds  from  the  west;  tem- 
perature at  if  a.  ra.,  +36.0  [  +  2.2°  C],  and  at  6  p.  m.,  +36.0  [  +  2.2°  C.J.  We  had  nothing  for  breakfast 
except  a  cup  of  tea. 

I  found  a  new  shrimping  place  this  morning  not  far  from  the  tent.  After  working  it  thoroughly  for 
several  hours  I  was  forced  to  return  with  only  two  pounds.  For  dinner  we  had  a  few  boiled  lichens  and  a  cup 
of  tea.  Schneider  is  worse;  Lieutenant  Greely  is  better,  and  *he  others  are  about  the  same  as  they  were 
yesterday.  Connell's  face  is  full,  and  he  has  the  appearance  of  a  man  in  excellent  health,  but  the  delusion 
is  due  to  bloat.  To-day  he  surprised  us  all  by  expressing  a  wish  to  work,  cook,  and  live  by  himself.  This 
request  Lieutenant  Greely  refused  to  grant.  Long,  Frederick,  Lieutenant  Greely,  and  myself  have  a  slight 
attack  of  diarrhea,  which  we  attribute  to  the  use  of  lichens. 

Gardiner  died  at  5  p.  m.,  starvation  being  the  primary  cause  of  his  death,  but  it  was  doubtless  hastened 
by  inflammation  of  the  bowels.  Patience  and  fortitude  have  cliaracterized  his  sufferings  during  the  last  few 
months.  He  clung  to  life  with  a  wonderful  pertinacity,  and  only  succumbed  when  physical  weakness  had 
crushed  his  iron  will.  At  2  a.  m.  he  became  unconscious,  but  for  hours  prior  to  this  he  had  held  the  portraits 
of  his  wife  and  of  his  mother  in  his  hand,  gazing  fondly  at  their  beloved  faces,  and  when  his  spirit  had 
passed  into  another  world  the  skeleton  fingers  still  clutched  the  pictures  of  those  whom  he  had  loved. 

From  this  date  I  shall  expect  a  relief  vessel  to  arrive  at  any  moment.  The  water  has  broken  the  floe 
to  the  rocky  point  near  our  winter  house.  I  placed  the  signal  flag  in  position  on  the  rocky  point  facing  the 
sea.     It  can  be  seen  for  a  long  distance,  owing  to  the  combination  of  colors  composing  it. 

Friday,  June  13. — A  southeast  wind,  brisk  and  damp,  prevailed  all  day  and  prevented  the  lichen  gath- 
erers from  pursuing  their  customary  labors.  Our  supper  in  consequence  was  necessarily  the  simplest  that 
could  well  be  imagined — a  seal-skin  temiak  (Eskimo  coat)  which  had  been  roasted  or  burned  over  a  saxifrage 
fire.  We  fared  somewhat  better  for  breakfast,  however,  having  the  results  of  last  evening's  shrimping, 
together  with  a  few  lichens. 

The  physical  condition  of  the  little  remnant  of  our  party  remains  unchanged;  mental  vigor,  however, 
is  fast  ebbing  away.  Biederbick  was  discharged  from  the  army  to-day,  his  term  of  service  having  expired. 
I  caught  only  about  one  pound  of  shrimps  this  evening.  1  have  nothing  but  the  two  guillemot's  skins  for 
bait,  and  they  are  nearly  consumed  by  the  repeated  assaults  of  the  voracious  shrimps.  Notwithstanding 
the  high  wind  and  the  disagreeable  weather,  Frederick,  the  never-tiring  cook,  has  been  bustling  about  camp 
all  day.  Owing  to  the  unfavorable  state  of  the  weather  Gardiner  was  not  buried.  My  signal-flag  has  been 
blown  down  by  the  wind;  temperature  at  8  a.  ni.,  -f  32.0  [0.0°  C],  and  at  9  p.  m.,  +31.5  [— o.3°C.]. 

Saturday,  yune  14,  1884. — High  wind  abated  at  4  a.  m.;  the  weather  remained  cloudy  all  day;  tem- 
perature at  n  a.  m.,  -f4i.o  [-fs.o°  C.|,  and  at  5  p.  m.,  -<-42.o  [  +  5.6°  C.J.  Our  breakfast,  with  its  few 
ounces  of  shrimps,  was  but  a  poor  apology  for  a  meal.  When  we  went  out  this  morning  to  begin  the  day's 
labors,  we  were  all  very  weak.  Lieutenant  Greely,  Connell,  and  Biederbick  gathered  lichens  for  supper 
to-day  and  breakfast  to-morrow.  Frederick  performed  the  usual  camp  work.  Gardiner  was  buried  in  the 
tidal  crack. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


527 


I  caught  only  one  pound  of  shrimps.  Long  complains  of  indisposition,  but  this  did  not  deter  him 
from  going  out  to  the  open  water,  which  is  now  quite  near  our  camp.  The  floe  ice  is  fast  breaking  away 
from  the  siiore.  "  Disai)pointment  Herg"  is  alreatly  free  from  restraint;  the  ice,  which  had  kept  it  a  close 
prisoner  for  so  many  months,  has  all  disappeared.  Connell  saw  a  small  seal  and  a  dovekie  in  a  pool  not  far 
from  the  ice-foot.  Neither  was  secured.  I  replaced  the  distress  signal-Hag,  which  was  blown  down  by  the 
wind  yesterday.     The  lichens  are  now  called — for  sake  of  variety — "  the  arctic  mushrooms." 

Sumiity,  ytitie  15,  1884. — Cloudy,  stormy,  and  generally  disagreeable  weather.  There  are  also  indica- 
tions of  a  very  high  wind  on  the  sound;  temperature,  7  a.  m.,  +30.0  [— i.i°C.];  u  a.  m.,  +34-o  l  +  i-'"  C.]^ 
and  at  7  p.  m.,  +39  o  [  +  39°  C.].  Light  snow  fell  during  the  forenoon.  Long  saw  five  walrus  sporting 
in  a  small  pool  near  the  ice-foot,  and  in  adjacent  pools  he  saw  many  others.  They  were  all  too  far  away 
to  be  reached  by  the  hunter.     No  game  was  killed  to-day.      The  invalids  remain  about  the  same. 

A  small  shrimp  and  lichen  stew  was  prepared  for  breakfast,  and  for  dinner  we  regaled  ourselves  on 
plain  raw  lichens.  The  oil-tanned  seal-skin  cover  to  Lieutenant  Greelys  sleeping-bag  has  been  removed 
and  divided  equally  between  Connell,  Biederbick,  Schneider,  and  Ellison.  To  the  remaining  members  of 
the  party  will  be  issued  the  cover  of  Ljng's  bag,  which  is  identical  with  the  one  used  to-day.  Some  dis- 
tance out  on  the  floe  Long  saw  a  fox,  which  was  traveling  northward.  The  little  fellow  was  evidently  in 
search  of  food. 

Schneider  begged  and  implored  that  some  one  would  give  him  opium  pills  in  order  that  he  could  die 
quickly  and  easily.     It  is  needless  to  say  they  were  refused. 

All  sense  of  the  feeling  of  hunger  appears  to  have  left  us.  We  eat  simply  because  we  think  it  necessary 
to  do  so  to  insure  the  prolonging  of  our  lives,  and  not  from  the  inclination  which  a  healthy  hunger  would 
produce.  All  fastidiousness  of  taste  has  also  departed.  Crumbs  of  bread  which  are  occasionally  exposed 
at  our  winter  quarters  through  the  melting  snow  are  picked  from  heaps  of  the  vilest  filth  and  are  eaten  with 
avidity  and  without  repugnance.  Henry  at  one  time  ate  ptarmigan  droppings;  Bender  ate  caterpillars, 
worms,  &c.;  saxifrage,  lichens,  and  other  vegetables,  together  with  the  intestines  of  birds  and  other  animals 
are  considered  epicurean  dishes  of  the  highest  order.  I  worked  for  several  hours  in  the  raw,  chilling  winds, 
but  my  efforts  were  not  rewarded  by  any  great  degree  of  success,  having  caught  but  little  more  than  a  pound 
of  shrimps. 

Monday,  J^iinc  16,  i884.^Temperature at  7  a. m.,  +37.0  | +2-8° C.J;  at  11  a.m.,  4-40.0  [+4.4° C],  and 
at  3  p.  m.,  -f  38.0  [-1-3.3°  C.].  The  lichen  gatherers  were  prevented  from  going  out  to-day  in  consequence 
of  a  high  wind.  Owing  to  this  unfortunate  state  of  the  weather  we  had  a  very  meager  breakfast  of  shrimps 
and  lichens,  and  for  supper  we  had  nothing  at  all.  Our  condition  is  indeed  wretched  and  full  of  distress; 
we  are  calmly  waiting  succor  or  the  alternative — death.     One  or  the  other  must  visit  us  soon. 

The  minimum  thermometer  (No.  590)  lost  last  winter  in  the  storm  was  found  to-day  by  me  near  the 
winter  hut,  quite  uninjured.  No  lemmings  have  been  seen  by  our  party  on  this  coast,  but  to-day  I  found 
tiie  skeleton  and  head  of  one  in  the  rocks  near  the  Proteus  wreck  cache.  The  bones  when  discovered  were 
intact,  but  being  extremely  friable  from  great  age  they  at  once  crumbled  to  dust  on  coming  in  contact  with 
my  fingers.  The  shrimp  fishery — our  last  resource,  except  the  lichens — has  failed  for  want  of  bait.  For 
full  five  hours  I  worked  as  faithfully  and  persistently  as  my  remaining  strength  would  permit,  and  during 
that  timj  took  only  two  or  three  ounces  of  these  crustaceans.  Even  these  I  did  not  carry  to  the  tent,  being 
barely  able  to  crawl  there  myself  without  incumbrances.  Walrus  in  countless  numbers  were  seen  in  the 
pools  some  distance  out,  but  none  appeared  on  the  ice  or  in  the  water-s|)aces  near  land.  "  Disappointment 
Berg,"  being  relieved  from  its  environment  of  ice,  has  moved  silently  away  from  the  position  which  it  occu- 
pied for  so  long  a  time.     The  last  of  our  tea  was  used  for  breakfast. 

Tuesday,  yuiie  17,  1884. — It  has  been  a  clear,  beautiful  day;  a  gende  breeze  from  the  west  tempered 
the  warmth  of  the  sun  during  the  forenoon.  Temperatures;  Minimum,  +30.5  [—0.8°  C.J  at  7  a.m.; 
maximum,  +38.0  |-|-3-3°t!-]  -it  u  a.  m.  As  a  substitute  for  the  Knglish  tea  a  decoction  of  saxifrage  was 
served  us  for  breakfast.  It  was  very  bitter,  unpalatable,  and  slightly  nauseating,  and  despite  my  earnest 
eflforts  to  swallow  this  vile  compound  I  was  forced  to  give  up  in  disgust.  With  the  exception  of  a  few 
mouthfuls  of  roasted  seal-skin  left  over  from  better  days,  this  tea  was  all  we  had  with  which  to  break  our 
fist.  For  dinner  a  lichen  stew  was  prepared.  It  was  very  small,  however,  and  did  not  go  far  towards 
satisfying  the  feelings  of  our  starving  men.  I  brought  up  an  armful  of  wood  for  fuel  from  the  boat  which 
formed  the  roof  to  our  .abandoned  hut.  Being  too  weak  to  prepare  it  for  burning  this  duty  fell  to  Frederick. 
He  is  also  nearly  broken  down,  but  his  iron  will  sustains  him.  Schneider  is  almost  entirely  helpless,  and 
his  words  evince  great  mental  weakness  as  well.     Many  walrus  are  bellowing  and  tumbling  about  in  the 


J 


''A 
■  J 


ill  ni 


528 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


i  '9 


si  I 


water  not  far  to  the  northward  of  the  extreme  northern  point  of  this  island,  but  unfortunately  we  cannot 
reach  them  without  a  boat.  The  sleeping-bags  of  Long  and  myself  were  stripped  of  their  seal-skin  cover- 
ing and  the  pieces  equally  divided  for  consumption.  This  is  the  last  and  only  material  in  camp  which  we 
can  use  for  food.  When  it  is  gone  the  party  will  not  long  survive ;  we  are  already  standing  on  the  brink  of 
the  grave,  and  when  the  last  mouthful  of  food  h.is  been  used  death  will  quickly  claim  us  for  his  own.  VVu 
will  probably  all  die  at  about  the  same  time,  and  none  of  those  now  surviving  can  expect  to  be  accorded 
the  burial  which  our  departed  comrades  have  received. 

This  evening  I  repaired  as  usual  to  the  shrimping  grounds,  but  my  labors  meeting  with  about  the  same 
result  as  yesterday,  I  concluded  to  abandon  this  work  for  the  present  and  turn  my  attention  to  the  collection 
of  lichens.  Not  a  piece  of  ice  was  to  be  seen  in  the  channel  this  evening,  and  its  surface  was  as  clear  and 
smooth  as  glass. 

IVednesiiay,  yune  i8,  1884. — With  the  exception  of  a  few  hours  in  the  morning  the  sky  was  cloudy  all 
day;  minimum  temperature,  +30.0  [—1.1°  C.J;  maximum,  +42.0°  [  +  5.6°  C],  occurring  at  3  p.  m. 
Saxifrage  tea  and  boiled  seal-skin  comprised  our  breakfast.  Having  nothing  to  cook  in  the  evening — the 
saxifrage  tea  being  voted  a  nuisance — no  fire  was  maile.  A  few  mouthfuls  of  boiled  seal-skin  which  we 
providently  saved  from  the  morning  rneal  was  eaten  for  supper.  Frederick  says  he  is  too  weak  to  cook 
more  than  one  meal  each  day.  What  would  seem  very  remarkable  in  our  case  is  that  we  long  for  certain 
articles  of  food,  but  at  the  same  time  the  sense  ol  hunger  is  not  felt.  The  fearful  gnawing  of  hunger  at  our 
stomachs  which  was  experienced  last  autumn  and  winter  has  some  time  since  disappeared.  There  has 
been  a  perceptible  diminution  of  strength  in  the  party  to-day.  I  was  unable  to  go  out  until  4  p.  m.,  when 
I  crawled  and  i-taggered — I  scarcely  know  how — to  the  rocks  a  dozen  yards  away  to  scrape  off  a  few  lichens. 
Soon  after  eating  his  breakfast  Schneider  became  unconscious,  and  at  6  p.  m.  he  died.  It  is  just  three  years 
to-day  since  he  was  detailed  for  duty  with  this  expetlition.  On  his  return  from  collecting  lichens  this  even- 
ing Connell  complained  of  dimness  of  vision  and  inability  to  manage  his  limbs  as  he  desired.  Biederbick 
very  inconsiderately  changed  underclothing  entire  this  morning.  It  now  occurs  to  us  that  we  have  neither 
changed  clothing  nor  bathed  since  we  left  Fort  Conger  in  August  last,  nearly  eleven  months  ago.  Long 
shot  two  dovekies  last  night,  but  they  drifted  out  with  the  tide  and  he  got  neither.  He  will  now  change 
his  hours  for  hunting  from  night  to  the  daytime,  the  tide  being  more  favorable  at  that  time. 

Thursday,  yune  19, 1884. — The  weather  was  clear  during  the  morning,  and  westerly  winds  prevailed. 
In  the  afternoon,  however,  the  wind  veered  to  southeast,  and  attained  a  high  velocity;  temperature  at  7 
a.m., +34.5  [-1-1.4°];  at  II  a.  m., +37.5  [-f  3.1°  C.J,  and  at  3  p.m.,  -|- 37.8  [-+-3.2°  C.|.  Long  went  out 
during  the  night  in  search  of  game,  and  did  not  return  until  a  late  hour  this  morning — while  Frederick  was 
preparing  breakfast.  Two  dovekies  and  two  eider  ducks  had  been  killel  by  him,  but  all  were  carried  seaward 
by  the  ebbing  tide,  before  they  could  be  secured  by  the  long  pole  which  he  carried  for  fishing  game  from  the 
water. 

I  discovered  a  small  piece  of  driftwood  on  the  land  thirty  feet  [9™]  above  the  tide  level.  It  bears  marks 
of  having  received  rough  usage  in  the  ice-pack,  and  its  appearance  also  denotes  great  antiquity.  A  few  days 
ago,  on  another  part  of  the  island,  I  found  a  similar  piece  which  was  not  as  far  above  the  water  as  this  one 
by  fifteen  feet  [4  5'"].  These  facts  alone  would  seem  to  be  indisputable  evidence  of  the  gradual  rising  of 
this  land  from  the  sea.    The  water  is  rapidly  eating  its  way  through  the  floe  into  Buchanan  Strait. 

The  party  is  now  yielding  slowly  but  surely  to  the  inevitable  approach  of  death;  a  brief  respite  only 
awaits  them.  The  lichens  are  very  scarce,  and  the  absence  of  bait  has  rendered  the  discontinuance  of 
shrimps  a  necessity.  What  we  will  next  do  is  a  matter  of  conjecture.  The  lichens  appear  to  possess  con- 
siderable nutriment,  and  had  my  recommendations  regarding  them  been  adopted  others  of  this  party  would 
probably  have  been  living  now.  I  ate  a  quantity  several  weeks  ago,  and  finding  them  palatable  and  not  at 
all  injurious  to  the  stomach,  I  earnestly  urged  Lieutenant  Greely  to  authorize  them  to  be  used  in  the  mess  as 
a  regular  article  of  diet,  and  he  probably  would  have  done  so  but  for  the  very  emphatic  and  tenacious 
professional  opinion  advanced  by  Doctor  Pavy,  who  pronounced  them  not  only  injurious,  but  also  extremely 
dangerous  to  the  system  and  directed,  or  rather  advised,  that  they  be  not  resorted  to  except  in  the  last 
extremity.  Connell  doubtless  has  symptoms  of  scurvy.  I  attribute  my  abnormally  swollen  face  and  limbs 
to  the  same  disease. 

Our  bieakfast  consisted  of  a  few  pieces  of  charred  seal-skin  and  a  thin  lichen  stew.  I  found  and 
gathered  a  fine  bed  of  reindeer  moss,  but  was  too  ill  to  collect  many  lichens.  Owing  to  the  greatly  enervated 
state  of  the  party  to-day,  Schneider  was  not  buried  as  contemplated,  but  was  moved  a  little  nearer  the  ice- 
foot. 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BAY  EXTKUITION. 


520 


Friday,  yune  20,  1884. — A  clear, beautiful  morning,  with  light  westerly  winds;  temperature  at  7  a.  m., 
-f  29.0  [- 1,7°  C];  at  II  a.  m., +33.0  [+o.6">  C],  and  at  3  p.  m., +38.0  [+3.3°  C] ;  minimum, -{-26.8 
I  —  2.9''  C.].  Long  went  to  his  hunting  grounds  at  3  a.  m.,  but  saw  no  game.  A  high  southeast  wind,  which 
lose  at  II  a.  ni.,  continued  all  day.  Biederbick  and  Connell  are  much  enfeebled.  The  former,  although 
showing  scorbutic  symptoms,  went  out  with  Lieutenant  Greely  to  gather  lichens.  Coniiell's  mouth  is  very 
bore.and  decidedly  worse  than  it  was  a  few  days  ago.  His  badly  swollen  face  and  limbs,  together  with  the 
condition  of  his  mouth,  impresses  us  with  the  belief  that  he  has  the  scurvy.  He  was  incapable  of  leaving  the 
tent  to-day.     I  brought  some  wood  and  salt  water  for  Frederick,  and  collected  a  little  reindeer  moss. 

While  removing  Schneider's  remains  from  the  tent  on  the  day  he  died,  it  was  noticed  that  his  mouth 
emitted  an  offensive  odor  which  pervaded  both  the  tent  and  the  outside  shelter.  We  are  of  the  opinion  that 
it  was  produced  by  scurvy,  of  which  he  exhibited  symptoms. 

Saturday,  yune  21,  1884. — Our  summer  solstice !  The  wind  continues  blowing  a  gale  from  the  south ; 
temperature  at  7  a.  m.,  +3«'0  [— c.6°  C  ] ;  at  11  a.m.,  +34.0  f-t-i.!"  C],  and  at  7  p.  m.,  -I-31.0  [—0.6°  C.J; 
minimum,  +28.0  [—2.2"  C.J.  Tent  in  dilapidated  condition;  shelter  barely  habitable  for  Long  and  myself. 
It  is  nearly  down  now,  and  if  the  storm  does  not  abate  soon  it  will  be  blown  over.  Snow  squalls  at  intervals. 
The  water  has  worked  into  the  ice  of  Buchanan  Strait  for  a  long  distance,  and  the  sea  is  running  very  high. 
A  meager  lichen  stew  for  breakfast,  and  a  few  pieces  of  boiled  seal-skin  for  supper. 

Connell  is  worse ;  he  says  his  legs  are  useless  below  the  knees.  Since  day  before  yesterday  E'.ison  has 
transferred  his  food  to  his  mouth  by  a  spoon  which  is  tied  to  the  stump  of  his  frozen  arm. 


Appendix  No.  125. — Portion  of  diary  0/  Private  Roderick  R.  Schneider,  found  on  bank  of 
Mississippi  River  in  Missouri,  and  correspondence  relating  thereto  with  Mr.  J.  A. 

Ockerson. 

Office  of  Mississippi  River  Commission, 
2828  Washington  Avenue,  Saint  Louis,  September  28,  1885. 
Dear  Sir;  Yours  of  the  23d  instant  is  received.     I  take  pleasure  in  sending  you  the  diary  inclosed 
herewith.     I  have  taken  great  interest  in  it,  and  should  like  very  much  to  have  the  leaves  returned  to  me 
after  their  contents  have  been  duly  noted.     I  retain  a  copy  of  them  duly  certified  by  Capt.  Thos.  Tuttle, 
Corps  of  Engineers,  to  guard  against  loss  in  transit  or  otherwise. 

I  am  investigating  the  details  of  the  finding  so  as,  if  possible,  to  get  a  clue  to  the  question  of  how  the 
diary  came  where  it  was  found,  and  if  you  desire  I  will  be  pleased  to  inform  you  of  the  facts. 

It  was  found  some  four  or  five  miles  below  Point  Pleasant,  Mo.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi. 
It  was  found  by  C.  Brainard,  then  in  our  employ.  He  is  in  no  way  related  to  the  man  in  your  party  of  the 
same  name. 

If  not  too  much  of  a  tax  on  your  time  I  should  be  very  glad  to  hear  from  you  further  in  this  matter, 
and  I  would  also  solicit  a  copy  of  your  report  when  published. 
Hoping  that  the  document  may  be  of  service  to  you,  I  am, 
Very  respectfully, 

J.  A.  Ockerson, 
U.  S.  Assistant  Engineer, 
Lieut.  A.  W.  Greelv,  ' 

Pittsfield,  Mass. 


«l 


Newburvport,  Mass.,  October  17,  1885. 
Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  Army, 

Washington,  D.  C.  : 
Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  herewith  a  portion  of  the  original  diary  of  the  late  Roderick  R. 
Schneider,  of  the  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition,  together  with  a  letter  from  Mr.  J.  A.  Ockerson,  U.  S. 
Assistant  Engineer,  of  Saint  Louis,  which  exphiins  how  it  came  into  my  possession.  I  have  to  state  that 
I  at  first  thought,  with  Captain  Schley,  that  this  diary,  with  other  similar  notes  of  Private  Schneider's,  were 
accidentally  thrown  overboard  with  my  sleeping-bag  immediately  after  my  rescue  at  Cape  Sabine.  Later, 
H.  Mis.  393 34 


530 


THE  LADV  FRANKLIN  HAY  KXrEDITION. 


however,  I  had  reason  to  believe  that  the  iliary  had  been  appropriated  by  some  one  of  the  seamen  of  the 
reheving  squadron.  Captain  Schley  and  Lieutenant  Kinory,  while  not  concurring  in  my  suspicion  that  the 
diary  had  been  taken,  made  every  effort  to  secure  the  safe  return  of  these  and  other  articles,  which  were  also 
undoubtedly  appropriated  by  the  seamen  of  the  squadron.  The  impossibility  of  preventing  such  misconduct 
on  the  part  of  the  seamen  is  obvious  to  any  one  at  all  familiar  with  the  excitement  and  confusion  incident 
to  the  rescue.  I  have  the  honor  to  request  that  this  remnant  of  Schneider's  diary  and  the  accompanyini; 
letters  be  attached  to  my  report. 

Mr.  Ockerson  has  expressed  a  desire  that  the  sheets  should  be  finally  returned  to  him,  but  I  havfi 
advised  him  that,  in  my  opinion,  the  original  should  revert  to  Private  Schneider's  family. 
I  am,  respectfully  yours, 

A.  W.  Greelv, 
first  Lieutenant,  Fifth  Cav.,  Acting  Signal  Officer  and  Assistant. 


ipii 
I     i 


Office  of  the  Mississippi  River  Commission, 
2828  U'lu/iington  Avenue^  Saint  Louis,  N(n>ember  ^,  "885. 

Sir:  On  September  28,  1885, 1  sent  to  Lieut.  A.  W.  Greely,  Pittsfield,  Mass.,  a  portion  of  the  diary  per- 
taining to  the  "  Greely  Expedition." 

On  the  supposition  that  it  may  be  of  some  interest,  I  beg  leave  to  submit  the  following  account  of  the 
time  and  place  at  which  it  was  found : 

It  was  found  March  2,  1885,  about  three  miles  below  Point  Pleasant,  Mo.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  by  C.  Brainard,  then  assistant  engineer  in  the  employ  of  the  Mississippi  River  Commission. 
The  leaves  were  separated  and  scattered  along  the  bank  for  a  distance  of  two  or  three  hundred  feet.  They 
had  apparently  been  left  there  by  the  water,  at  a  stage  some  three  feet  higher  than  when  found.  An  exam- 
ination of  the  gauge  records  fixes  the  date  when  they  lodged  there  as  about  February  22,  1885. 

Besides  the  record  proper  (which  covers  a  period  from  June  6  to  June  17,  1884,  and  begins  "3  of  us, 
an  order  was  published  to-day  that  he  should  be  shot "),  there  were  three  pages  of  mess  account,  giving  the 
amount  of  game,  shrimp,  &c.,  which  had  been  caught,  six  blank  leaves,  and  the  leaves  which  were  attached 
to  the  cover,  with  a  portion  of  the  '•over. 

A  search  was  made  for  some  distance  above  and  below  for  other  portions,  but  without  success.  The 
outside  leaves  being  intact,  and  the  ragged  edges  of  the  other  leaves,  gave  the  impression  that  the  missing 
part  had  been  torn  out. 

It  came  into  my  possession  early  in  August  last,  and  after  carefully  reviewing  the  published  accounts  of 
the  expedition  and  its  survivors  I  became  satisfied  that  it  was  Schneider's  diary. 

Before  reporting  the  matter  I  attempted  to  solve  the  mystery  as  to  how  a  diary,  which  was  thrown  over- 
board in  Greely's  sleeping-bag  off  Cape  Sabine,  could  have  reached  the  place  where  it  was  found.  I  have 
not  arrived  at  a  satisfactory  solution  of  the  matter. 

About  September  20  I  wrote  to  Lieutenant  Greely  with  regard  to  it,  and  he  informed  me  that  Schnei- 
der's diary  was  missing  and  that  he  believed  that  it  was  stolen  by  some  member  of  the  relief  squadron. 

He  also  requested  that  it  be  sent  to  him  at  once,  which  was  subsequently  done.  I  retained  the  blank 
leaves  and  also  a  copy  of  the  diary  in  order  to  guard  against  possible  loss  in  transit. 

On  its  receipt  Lieutenant  Greely  informed  me  that  the  diary  was  genuine,  and  that  it  had  been  sent  to 
your  office  to  be  entered  on  the  official  records  of  the  expedition. 

I  had  hoped  to  trace  the  movements  of  some  ex-members  of  the  relief  party  who  were  on  exhibition 

in  this  section  in  the  fall  of  1884,  thinking  that  I  might  in  that  way  get  a  clue  to  the  former  possessor  of  the 

diary,  and  possibly  learn  whether  it  was  lost  or  whether  an  attempt  was  made  to  destroy  it.     As  yet  I  can 

only  say  that  their  names  as  given  here  are  Burke,  Clarke,  and  Smith. 

Hoping  that  the  above  statements,  if  not  of  any  real  value,  may  still  be  of  some  interest,  I  have  the 

honor  to  be, 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  A.  Ockerson, 

Assistant  United  States  Engineer* 
Gen.  W.  B.  Hazen, 

Chief  Signal  Officer  U.  S.  A.,  Washington,  D.  C. 


THE  LADY  FUANKLIN  BAY  KXI'KDITION. 


531 


Diary  of  Private  Ji.  H,  Schneider ,  at  Camp  Clay,  yune  6-17,  1884. 


[G«me.] 

Shrimps. 

[Date.] 

[Description.] 

[Weight.] 

[Collector.] 

[Date.] 

[Weight.] 

1884. 

IM.   Ot. 

1884. 

Lht. 

Mar.  14 

3  ptarmigan.. 

3    "o 

Brainard. 

Mar.  19  to  25 

17 

Mar.  16 

4  dovekies... 

4      0 

Long  and  Jens. 

Mar.          37 

12 

Mar.  17 

I  ptarmigan.. 

1       4 

Eskimo  lens. 
Brainartf. 

Mar.          38 

S« 

Mar.  34 

I  fox 

S      » 

Mar.          39 

13 

Mar.  27 

33  dovekiei.. 

33     0 

Long  and  Jens. 

Mar.  28 

1  ptarmigan.. 

1      0 

Free  erik  (Eskimo). 

Do... 

14  dovekies.. 

14     0 

Long  and  Jens. 

Mar.  29 

I  ptarmigan.. 

1      0 

Rice. 

Apr.     I 

II  dovekies.. 

II      0 

Long  and  Jens. 

Apr.     3 

2  ptarmigan.. 

2     0 

Brainard. 

Apr.     7 

....do  

2     0 

Jens. 

Long  and  Jens. 

Apr.   II 

1  ice  bear  ... 

400     0 

Apr.   13 

I  seal 

78     0 

Long. 

Apr.  25 

3  ptarmigan.. 

3      0 

Brainard. 

May.    3 
May.  28 

....do  

2      0 

Do. 

I  dovekie 

I      0 

Long. 

May.  29 

....do  

I      0 

Do. 

une     I 

do 

I      0 

Do. 

une     2 

....do  

I      0 

Do. 

une     4 

....do  

I      0 

Do. 

June     6 

—  .do 

I      0 

Do. 

three  of  us,  an  order  was  published  to-day  that  he  should  be  shot. 

Although  this  is  a  most  terrible  day  every  one  is  in  very  good  spirits  this  evening,  and  Brainard  and 
Long  are  both  at  their  respective  work — the  former  shrimping  and  the  latter  hunting.  Our  only  food  now 
consists  of  three  ounces  of  shrimps  daily  per  man. 

Lichens  and  saxifrage  and  reindeer  moss  are  eaten  in  the  stew  by  those  who  like  it.  The  stew  and  tea 
both  were  reduced  to  one  pot. 

Among  other  things  there  were  found  some  tea  in  Henry's  effects,  and  he  also  took  some  shrimps  out 
of  the  stew  pot  this  morning  by  Shorty  [Frederick]. 

Brainard  returned  10.45  p.  m.  with  only  2^  pounds  of  shrimps,  yet  he  had  been  gone  since  4.30  p.  m.^ 
but  the  baits  are  giving  out.  Long  returned  10.20  p.  m.,  very  much  fatigued;  he  had  been  able  to  succeed 
in  getting  the  dovekie  which  he  had  shot. 

Brainard  slept  in  the  bag  with  me.  • 

During  last  night  Henry  was  eating  burned  seal-skin  and  I  asked  him  for  some,  yet  he  refused  me  it 
positively. 

Saturday,  yune  7,  1884. — Clear,  yet  little  wind  from  the  west;  Shorty  [Frederick]  is  up  cooking. 
Brainard  said  that  he  spent  very  pleasant  night  and  rested  better  than  he  has  for  many  weeks. 

Burial  service  was  read  over  the  dead  before  breakfast.  After  breakfast  the  bodies  were  tied  up  by 
Brainard,  Long,  and  Frederick. 

Upon  searching  the  pockets  of  the  dead  lots  of  burned  and  unburned  seal -skin  and  thongs  were  found 
on  the  doctor  and  Bender  both,  which  showed  how  dishonest  they  was. 

I  was  too  weak  to  do  anything  to-day  and  received  a  dose  of  medicine  from  Biederbick.  The  evening 
dinner  consisted  of  seal-skin  soles  entirely,  no  shrimps  being  on  hand,  and  the  stew  was  enjoyed  by  all  and 
gave  great  satisfaction.     I  had  a  good  stool  in  the  evening. 

Brainard  and  Long  left  camp  at  8  p.  m.  It  is  found  that  only  little  seal-skin  remains  on  hand  to  cook, 
and  that  Henry  evidently  must  have  made  a  cache  somewhere. 

Although  Henry  has  told  before  his  death  that  I  had  eaten  a  lot  of  seal-skin,  yet,  although  I  am  a  dying 
man,  I  deny  the  assertion  he  made  against  me.  I  only  eat  my  own  boots  and  a  part  of  an  old  pair  of  pants 
which  I  received  from  Lieutenant  Kislingbury.     Bender  did  not  smell  very  well  upon  removal  this  morning. 

Brainard  and  Long  returned  at *  p.  m. 

*  Omission  in  original, — A.W.G.,  Lieut. 


532 


THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  BaY  KXPKDITION. 


Frederick  done  the  cooking  to-day.  Hicderbick  and  Conncll  were  picking  lichens  and  reindeer  moss 
for  dinner.  We  are  all  getting  very  weak  and  Fredcrit:k  s.iys  he  cannot  stand  it  much  longer.  As  far  as  I 
can  see  we  cannot  exist  but  very  iiitlc  longer  now.  No  more  bait  for  shrimp  catching,  no  chances  to  get 
game,  and  only  sealskin  enough  for  a  few  stews  more.  I  feel  myseli  going  fast,  but  I  wished  that  it  would 
go  yet  faster. 

I  moved  into  the  tent  to-day,  and  the  commanding  officer  moved  into  Bender's  single  bag. 

Although  I  stand  accused  of  doing  dishonest  things  here  lately,  I  herewith,  .is  a  dying  man,  can  say 
that  the  only  dishonest  thing  which  I  have  done  is  to  have  eaten  my  own  seal-skin  boots  and  the  part  of 
my  pants. 

Sunday,  yune  8,  1884. — Clear  and  warm.  Hrainard  and  Long  returned  at  i  a.  m.,  the  former  bringing 
in  about  two  pounds  of  shrimps,  but  Long  had  not  seen  any  game.  Both  men  completely  exhausted.  We 
had  shrimp  stew  for  breakfast  and  seal-skin  stew  for  dinner,  together  with  roasteil  pieces  o{  Umiak,  which  I 
prepared  during  the  day.    Although  it  i)roved  very  bitter  food,  yet  it  was  eaten  by  every  one  of  us. 

Biederbick  found  a  cache  consisting  of  one  pound  of  bear  meat  in  a  stocking  and  evidently  stolen  by 
Henry;  it  was  cooked  in  tlie  evening  stew  and  relished  very  much.  After  dinner  I  wrote  up  account  of 
Elison's  trip  of  last  fall  after  the  English  meat.  Biederbick  taken  sick  at  dinner  time.  Iron  was  issued  after 
dinner  and  afforded  great  relief.  Jkainard  went  to  the  shrimping  grounds  after  dinner.  Doctor's  body 
removed  to  the  ice-foot  by  Brainard,  Long,  ami  Frederick.  The  latter  of  these  men  does  the  cooking  daily, 
but  the  poor  fellow  is  getting  very  weak.  Long  tried  to  go  hunting,  but  had  to  give  it  up  on  account  of  the 
work  done  by  him  during  the  day.  Gardiner  unable  to  do  ci.ything.  Commanding  oflicer  gathers  lichens 
and  Connell  gets  saxifrage.  Biederbick  got  lichens.  Every  one  completely  exhausted  to-night;  I  and 
Connell  are  suffering  from  scurvy.     My  knees  are  much  swollen  and  I  am  unablf  to  walk  any  more. 

Monday,  yune  9,  1884. — Clear  and  warm.  Brainard  returned  1.15  am.  vith  two  pounds  of  shrimps. 
I  roasted  all  the  seal-skin  after  breakfast.  Unable  to  walk,  but  crawled  to  the  fire.  Gardiner  is  very  weak. 
Commanding  officer  and  Biederbick  picking  lichens  for  dinner. 

Frederick  cooks;  had  shrimp  stew  and  remaining  roasted  sealskin  for  breakfast.  Connell  picking  saxi- 
frage to  burn.  We  are  on  the  point  of  starvation  now,  and  every  one  is  meeting  their  u.k*  like  men.  Bender's 
body  was  removed  to  a  tidal  crack.  Long's  birthday  to-day.  Every  one  of  us  much  used  up.  The  com- 
manding officer  about  the  strongest  of  us.  Nothing  except  roasted  hide  and  a  cup  of  tea  for  dinner. 
Frederick  hardly  able  to  arise  and  get  breakfast.  Dinner  at  4  ]).  m.,  and  Brainard  and  Long  leave  camp 
[after]  dinner  and  returned  11  p.  m.  Brainard  did  not  get  any  shrimps  on  account  of  ice  having  given  way, 
and  Long  had  not  seen  only  few  ducks. 

Tuesday,  yune  10,  1884.—  Cloudy  and  cold,  with  wind  from  the  west.  Elison  expressed  a  wish  that  his 
bones  should  go  to  the  United  States  to  some  museum.  Gardiner  was  taken  sick  with  inflammation  of  the 
bowels.  Biederbick,  commanding  officer,  and  myself  picked  lichens  for  the  evenin  s^ew,  which  consisted 
only  of  lichens  and  a  cup  of  tea. 

Long  and  Brainard  left  camp  after  dinner.    The  latter  returned  1 1.30  p.  m.,  with  two  pounds  of  shrimps. 

Connell  is  picking  saxifrage  to  burn.  Tea  leaves  are  boiled  second  time  for  tea.  Every  one  is  getting 
weaker,  especially  myself.  I  am  hardly  able  to  crawl.  Frederick  is  doing  the  cooking  and  work  around 
the  camp,  but  he  says  he  is  falling  fast.     Biederbick  does  remarkable  work. 

Long  returned  i  a.  m.  with  Brainard;  the  former  had  killed  a  goose  and  a  dovekie,  but  had  been  unable 
to  get  only  the  dovekie,  which  was  issued  to  them  extra.  Brainard  only  was  able  to  get  one  pound  of 
shrimps. 

Wednesday,  J-une  11,  1884. — Clear,  yet  the  light  west  wind  goes  through  one.  I  had  a  stool,  which 
weakened  me  so  that  I  was  unable  to  pick  even  lichens.     The  commanding  officer  unable  to  pick  any. 

Long  returned  at  1.30  a.  m.  with  2  black  guillemots  ;  one  was  ordered  in  to-night's  stew,  and  the  other 
as  extra  ration  for  the  hunters  and  cook.  Biederbick  alone  is  picking  lichens.  Connell  got  saxifrage.  Long 
and  Brainard  leave  camp  after  dinner.  The  condition  of  Gardiner  is  very  bad ;  he  cannot  pass  his  bowels, 
and  Biederbick  says  he  must  surely  die  soon,  and  1  feel  that  I  must.     Frederick  is  doing  the  cooking. 

Brainard  and  Long  left  camp  after  dinner. 

Thursday,  yune  12, 1884. — Clear  and  warm.  Long  and  Brainard  returned  at  12.45  ^*  >"•>  ^^  latter 
had  the  bad  fortune  to  lose  his  net  by  the  floe  moving  out.  Therefore  we  had  only  tea  for  breakf?.st  and 
nothing  else.  A  flag  was  put  up  by  Brainard  on  the  hill.  Connell  and  commanding  officer  in  dispute  over 
lichens  this  morning;  [Connell]  showed  disposition  to  gather  food  for  himself. 


THE  T.ADY  FIIANKLIN  TUY  KXPHDITION. 


533 


Poor  (funliner  died  at  ii  a.m.  from  intlammatiun  of  the  IkiwcIs  and  Btarvation;  lie  will  be  buried  in 
tlie  ice-foot,  as  it  is  seen  that  the  rest  of  the  bodies  are  uncovering  with  every  light  wind,  and  are  thus  laid 
\mt<:  to  animals. 

Long  did  not  get  any  game  last  night.  I  sewed  on  a  shrimp-net  to-day,  but  I  had  to  lie  helped  up 
in  the  bed.  I  feel  myself  going  rapidly.  The  commanding  otVuer,  Hicderbitk,  and  C'onncll  are  gathering 
lichens ;  also,  Long  and  Hrainard.  Frederick  is  iloing  the  <  ooking.  Hrainard  and  Long  went  out  after  dinnor, 
but  they  returned  before  12  p.  m.,  the  former  with  only  a  few  shrimps.  He  had  to  make  a  new  shrimp  pole. 
Long  dill  not  get  any  game.     'I'he  lichens  begin  to  give  diarrhea  to  most. 

Friday,  yunt  13,  1884. — Great  wind  storm  from  the  southward  continued  to  blow  all  day.  Diederbicic 
was  discharged  to-day  and  received  a  certificate  of  the  ilischargc  owing  to  no  blanks  for  finals  [final  state- 
ments] and  discharges  are  on  hand.  No  one  w.as  able  to  go  out  to  work.  Frederick  done  the  cooking;  the 
last  fi-Hiiitk  was  cut  to  pieces,  roasted,  and  divided.  Long  and  Hrainard  suflering  from  diarrhea.  Hrainard 
left  camp  after  dinner  in  spite  of  the  storm,  in  order  to  haul  his  nets,  and  returned  10  p.m.  with  about  2 
pounds  of  shrimps.  Long  did  not  go  out  at  all.  I  am  getting  very  weak  and  can  only  move  in  my  bag 
under  the  greatest  difficulty. 

The  flag-pole  which  poor  Biederbick  erected  blew  down  during  the  storm. 

Only  little  tea  remains  on  hand  now. 

Saturday,  yitne  14,  1884. — Cloudy,  but  warm.  Commanding  officer,  Hicderbick,  and  Connell  are  pick* 
ing  lichens.  Biederbick  was  re-enlisted  to-tlay,  and  (iardiner  was  buried  in  tlic  ice-foot  by  Hrainard,  Long, 
an<l  Frederick.  The  latter  is  cooking  and  sawing  the  wood.  Tiie  Hag  w.as  erected  again  by  Hrainard. 
Flison's  feet  and  hands  were  dressed  by  Biederbick.  I  am  unable  to  get  out  today,  anil  am  hardly  able 
to  write  my  log-book  up.  A  raven  was  heard  around  the  camp,  and  a  seal  and  walrus  were  seen  by  Con- 
nell, but  Long  seems  unable  to  go  out  on  account  of  weakness.  Hrainard  was  very  much  used  up  last 
night,  yet  he  is  in  good  spirits  and  expects  a  ship  every  day  now.  The  gale  subsided  about  3  a.  m.  this 
morning.  F^lison  was  able  to  make  water  by  himself.  Hrainard  and  Long  left  camj)  after  ilinner;  the 
former  got  i  i)ound  of  shrimps,  the  latter  nothing,  but  had  seen  plenty  walrus  near  the  shore.  Both  of 
them  returned  at  i  a.  m. 

Sunday,  yune  15,  1884. — Fair,  but  cold;  temperature  7  a.  m.,  +30.0  [—1.1°  C],  and  some  snow  had 
fallen  during  the  night.  Hrainard  and  Long  returned  i  a.  m.  Connell  made  a  remark  this  morning  about 
each  one  for  himself  now,  which  caused  the  commanding  officer  some  uneasiness.  Two  of  us,  F^lison  and 
myself,  are  unable  to  do  anything.  We  are  living  on  only  a  few  lichens  and  shrimps  now,  and  only  tea 
enough  for  two  meals  more.  Brainard  and  Long  i)ick  and  turn  their  lichens  into  the  general  mess.  The 
guns  are  put  out  of  reach  of  Connell,  for  he  is  very  strong  yet.  The  commanding  officer,  Biederbick,  and 
Crtnnell  are  all  out  after  lichens.  F'rederick  is  doing  the  cooking.  Many  walrus  and  seals  were  seen  by 
Long  near  the  shore;  the  ice-foot  is  going  fast  and  he  expects  to  kill  one  of  them  on  the  beach.  The  sun 
was  shining  quite  bright  at  i  p.m.,  but  the  temperature  remained  low;  only  ruse  to  +34.0  [+i.i°C.]. 
Brainard  went  out  after  dinner  and  got  one  pound  of  shrimps,  but  Long  did  not  kill  any  game. 

Monday,  yune  16,  1884. — Wind  blowing  from  the  N.  The  last  of  the  tea  for  breakfast.  Nobody 
able  to  get  up  except  Frederick,  who  cooks.  Minimum  thermometer  No.  590  found  by  Brainard  to-day 
and  again  exposed.  Sleeping-bag  cover  roasted  and  boiled  for  supper  to  suit  each  one.  No  fluid  for  sujiijer 
to-night,  not  even  hot  water.  Iron  was  issued.  Brainard  left  camp,  but  did  not  get  any  shrimps,  there 
being  no  more  baits,  and  the  shrimps  will  not  bite  on  tanned  seal-skin.  He  returned  12  p.  m.  Connell  is 
suffering  from  sore  gums.  I  am  only  able  to  sew  on  boots  and  keep  up  the  diary.  Had  to  make  my  stool 
in  the  tent  by  assistance  of  Brainard  and  Long.  Every  one  is  getting  weaker.  I  had  my  [sealj  skin 
boiled;  so  did  Connell  and  F^Hson.  Frederick's  strength  is  failing  fast,  too.  Long  is  suffering  from  his 
bowels,  yet  he  went  out,  but  could  not  get  at  the  birds  on  account  of  the  bad  ice;  he  returned  a  few  minutes 
after  1 2  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  yune  17,  1884. — Fair,  but  cool,  yet  the  commanding  officer,  Biederbick,  and  Connell  are 
out  picking  lichens  for  six  hours.  Biederb\ck  also  dressed  Fllison's  feet  and  hands.  I  am  unable  to  use  my 
legs,  but  after  being  helped  up  I  sewed  a  patch  on  Braiiiard's  boots.  He  will  haul  his  nets  once  more,  and 
if  unsuccessful,  give  it  up  after  to-day  and  begin  picking  lichens  with  the  others.  Saxifrage  tea  was  tried 
for  breakfast,  but  only  appreciated  by  Connell,  Biederbick,  F-lison,  and  myself.  Frederick  is  doing  the 
cooking  again  to-day  and  Brainard  went  to  the  hut  after  wood.    The  commanding  officer  picked  two  cans 


634 


THE  LADY  FEANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


of  lichens  to-day.  The  last  of  the  skin  was  divided  to  day.  The  weather  cleared  up  and  it  was  very  warm 
in  the  afternoon.  Connell  is  off  a  good  ways  picking  lichens;  he  is  very  strong  yet  in  his  legs.  Only  one 
meal  is  cookeil  a  day  now,  as  Frederick  is  getting  so  weak ;  yet  it  is  remarkable  how  he  keeps  up  at  all  on 
this  food  with  the  work  which  he  does. 


Appendix  No.  126. — Driftivood. 


,  '  -1 


li!  !  , 


i 


No.  I.  Cedar;  evidemly  limb  from  tree,  with  bark: 


Ft.  Int. 

Crcalest  circumference,  main  limb..  22^'^ 

Least  circumference,  main  limb loj^ 

Extreme  length,  main  limb 2  8|4 


No.  2.  Evide  tly  resinous  \food,  possibly  jiine ;  cither  branch  or  the  extreme  lower  part 
of  tree  growing  in  rocky  soil  on  hill : 


Split  surface .....  21 

Extreme  length 2  II 

Circumference,  top I  S 

Circumference,  l)Oltom I  3 

Circumference,  largest  part a  1 


No.  3.  Poplar  ?     Bark  and  wood  inodorous  and  tasteless ;  frequent  with  heart  split  out 
or  gone; 


Length  . 


Greatest  diameter 

No.  4.  Pine?    Dug  out  of  sand  about  200  yards  [183'"]  above  high  water  level;  altitude 
20  to  30  feet  f6  to  9  meters];  very  much  worn: 
Circumference  (not  whole  tree) 


Length 


No.  5.  Pine?     Fragment  of  tree  or  limb,  with  probably  a  diameter  of  4  to  6  inches 
[102'"™  to  isa"™]: 
Length 


Vidtli . 


No,   >.  Cedar  limb: 

Length 

largest  diameter  . 
Snulli  X  diameter  . 


No.  7.  Pine;  fi-agment  from  tree  at  least  5  or  6  inches  [127"""  or  152"""]  in  diameter: 
Length 


Width . 


No.  8.  Pine;  fragiaint  from  limb  about  2>^  to  3"/^  inches  [64"'"'  to  89°""]  in  diameter: 

Length 

Circumference 

No.  9.  Pine;  fragment  from  limb  or  tree  at  least  6  inches  [152"""]  in  diameter: 

Length .. 

Width '".'.'. '.'.".'. :'... 

No,  10.  Had  large  tufts  of  grass  growing  in  alluvium  which  had  collected  therein; 
main  trunk  of  tree  (cedar?): 

Length    _,. 

Greatest  diameter 

Diameter  below  first  limb 

Diameter  of  top 


571 
267 

82s 


533 
886 

432 
381 
63s 


3 

914 

5>i 

130 

18  V 

462 

i        4'/2 

724 

18 

457 

^H 

64 

I  10 

559 

4H 

120 

3 

76 

II 

279 

I 

25 

II 

279 

.  4>i 

IDS 

IO"4 

267 

3X 

81;^ 

a   9 

838 

fT4 

437 

xb}i 

414 

6'A 

"55 

THE  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 

No.  II.  Only  piece  which  has  been  worked;  surface  eaten  into  by  worms: 

Length . . 

Circumference  (uniform) . . . . ... 


535 


Ft,      Int.  mm. 

2      6  76a 


Appendix  No,  127. — List  of  photographs  and  description  of  Eskimo  relics  in  photographic  plates. 


s 


Page. 
Our  House  at  Conger  (west  side),  March,  1882. 

(Frontispiece.) 

Godhavn,  Greenland,  July  19,  1881 2 

Ritenbenk.Greenland,  July  21.  1881 2 

Proven,  North  Greenland,  July,  1881 4 

Danish  Eskimo  at  Proven,  North  Greenland 4 

6,  Site  of  Polaris  House,  Life-boat  v  3ve  (occupied  in 

1872),  July,  1881 6 

7.  Proteus  in  ice,  entrance  to  Discovery  Harbor,  August 

12,  l88i._. 6 

Musk-cattle  killed  on   Mt.   Cartmel,  near  Conger, 

August  12,  1881 8 

Head  of  musk-ox  killed  near  Conger 8 

Coal    mine,   Water-cours:    Ravine,   with    reflected 

image 12 

View  of  ice  from  Cape  Murchison,  looking  towards 

Thank  God  Harbov,  June,  1882 29 

Musk  calves,  October,  1882.    Captured  near  Conger, 

June,  1 882.     Sergeint  Frederick 30 

Floeberg  in  St.  Patrick  Bay,  June,  1882 44 


8. 

9- 
10. 

II. 


P»ge. 


44 


13- 


14.  Pressed    up   Floeberg.     Breakwater    Point,    Lady 

Franklin  Bay,  June,  1882  

15.  Chandler  Fiord,  looking  westward.     Ida  Bay  !.■    i- 

treme  left 236 

1 6.  Paleocrystic  ice  in  Robeson  Channel 246 

17.  Tide-gauge  at  Cape  Baird 268 

18.  Eskimo  relics  found  in  vicinity  of  Conger.     PI  I..     536 
Eskimo  relics  found  at  junction  Lake    Hazen  and 

Ruggles  River,  June,  1882.    PI.  II. 536 

Eskimo  relics  from  Basil  Norris  and  Sun  Bays.    PI. 

ni -.   536 

Eskimo  relics.    Greater  number  found  south  side  of 

Lake  Hazen,  June,  1882.     PI.  IV 536 

Eskimo  relics  found  at  Cape  Baird.    PI.  V 536 

Modern  Greenland  and  ancient  Eskimo  sledge.    PI. 

VI 536 

Arctic  Highlander  from  Cape  York 536 

Arctic    Highlanders   from   North   Star   SeUlement, 

Saunders'  Island S3'' 

Trout  caught  in   Lake  Alexandra,  about  8  miles 

from  Conger .. (vol.  2,  face  page  55.) 


19, 


20. 


22. 
23- 

24. 
2S- 

26. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  ESKIMO  RELICS  IN  PHOTOGRAPHIC  PLATES. 


3- 


Plate  No.  i  {beginning  at  left  upper  corner,  and  going 
across). 

1.  Dog-harness  toggle — appears  to  be  of  walrus-ivory,  with 

two  rounded  slots. 

2.  Piece  of  a  "  long  "  bone  or  antler  beam,  cut  off  square  on 

ends  and  slightly  curved  with  a  lanyard  hole  through 

upper  end;  perhaps  a  knife  handle. 
Body  of  toggle-head  of  harpoon,  point  downwards.    Of 

the  pattern  common  at  Smith  Sound,  with  the  blade 

slit  at  right  angles  to  the  plane  of  the  barb. 
Cylindrical  rod  of  bone  slightly  expanded  it  lower  end 

and  at  the  other  tapered  to  a  rounded  tang,  with  a 

couple  of  little  lugs  on  it,  not  opposite.    The  foreshaft 

of  an  arrow  (?)  or  dart  (?). 
Small  flat  oblong  piece  of  bone. 
5*.  Fragment  (the  bottom)  of  a  stone  lamp,  which  appei.rs 

to  have  been  nearly  circular — an  unusual  shape. 
Bow  drill,  made  of  a  single  tajiering  piece  of  bone,  largest 

near  the  butt,  which  is  tapered  away  to  fit  the    .outh- 

piece.    Tip  worked  down  to  a  slender  drill  point. 
Stout  tapering  rod  of  bone,  with  one  end  sharp-pointed — 

looks  like  an  ice-pick. 
Curved  fragment  of  bone,  apparently  the  tip  of  a  rib. 
Irregular  broad  long  piece  of  coai^e  Imne,  perhai»  part 

of  a  sled. 
Second  row:  Long  flat  piece  of  l)one,  with  an  oblong 

slot  in  one  end,  and  the  other  worked  into  a  small  knob. 

Probably  |iart  of  a  spliced  lione  Ixjw. 
a.  Irregular  long,  fragment  of  bone. 


S"- 


6. 


8. 
9- 

10. 


11^.  Flat  oblong  piece  of  bone,  with  a  round  hole  through 
each  end  and  a  transverse  furrow  across  one  end.  A 
"strap"  for  splicing  tog-jther  two  pieces  of  wood,  or 
mending  a  broken  article. 

12.     Oblong  piece  of  bone,  apparently  a  wedge. 

137.  Epiphysis  of  whale's  vertebra,  perhaps  used  as  a  dish. 

131^.  Wooden  sheath  for  lance-head,  in' two  parts  las'-cd  to- 
gether with  thong  or  sinew. 

14.  Small  wedge-shaped  piece  of  bone,  which  looks  as  if  it 
might  be  a  bone  adz-blade. 

15^.  A  square  block  of  wood. 

15*.  Small  wedge-shaped  piece  of  bone. 

ISC  Piece  of  birch  bark  (?). 

16.  .Stout  lx)ne  "  loosf!  shaft "  of  harpoon. 

17.  Lengthwise  across  bottom  of  sheet :  Long  slender  pointed 

rod  of  bone,  perhaps  a  seal  detector. 

18.  Piece  of  a  bore  sled-runner,  with  rivet-holes. 

Plate  No.  2. 

1.  Canine  tusk  of  walrus-calf,  old  and  weathered. 

2.  Stick  of  wood  apparently  chamfered  off  at  one  end. 

3.  Rough  bone  Ixjdkin. 

4.  Bone  or  ivory  marline-spike  for  sinew-working. 

5.  Tapering  rod  of  boMc,  sharp-pointed  at  lower  end,  with  a 

rough  knob  on  upper,  perhaps  a.ho  a  marline-spike. 

6.  Short  rod  of  bone,  pointed  at  each  end. 

7.  Rough  slender  rod  of  l)one,  witli  alxiut  one-fifth  of  iti 

length  bent  at  right  angles  to  the   rest.     Looks   like 
the  handle  of  a  small  blubber  hook. 


1 


536 


THK  LADY  FKANKLIN  BAY  EXPEDITION. 


V 


II 


'i|t| 


Hllii 


I 


8. 
9- 


II. 

12. 

«3- 
14. 

'S- 
16. 

>7- 


18. 

•9 

20. 

21. 

22. 

23. 

24. 

25- 

26. 

27- 

28. 


s 

6, 

7 
8 

9 
to, 
II 


Blade  of  a  snow-knife,  of  bone,  broad  and  |x)inted. 

Implement  like  No.  5. 

Marlin-.-T^ike,  flat,  four-sided,  and  rather  broad  for 
3'x}ut  01  e-tliird  of  its  length,  then  rounded  and  taper- 
'.ng  to  a  blunt  point ;  bone. 

Blade  of  small,  straight,  pointed  Ixine  knife,  with  a 
broad  tang  pierced  with  a  rivet-hole. 

Short  rod  of  coarse  bone. 

Third  row :  Short  piece  of  .ded-runner  with  rivet -holes ; 
lH)ne. 

Piece  of  reindeer  skin  ironi  belly  or  flank,  with  long, 
coarse,  white  hair. 

Short  fragment  of  f.le  1-runner  of  bone,  with  rivet-holes. 

Fourth  row:  Shoit  cylindrical  tube  of  bone.  Cap  for 
sled  upstander. 

Bone  tool,  precisely  the  shape  of  the  stone  adies  from 
Point  Barrow. 
.  Hair  combs,  essi  ntially  of  the  common  Eskimo  pattern. 

Ulu  or  woman's  knife,  with  iron  blade  and  bone  handle. 
Of  the  shapr  used  by  the  western  Eskimos  and  not 
of  the  Gree'iland  pattern. 

Fragment  of  comb  like  20  and  21. 

Small  spade  shaped  implemen',  'vhlch  may  be  an  unfin- 
ished con  b. 
.  Dog-hamejs  and  toggles,  apparently  of  ivory. 

Fifth  row:  Haft  and  part  of  blaue  of  wooden  snow- 
knife.     Smith  Sound  pattern. 

Fragment  of  sled-runner,  with  rivet -holes. 

Long  piece  of  hone,  with  a  deep  groove  along  middle, 
from  one  end  about  ^/  of  length.  Perhaps  a  spear- 
socket  split  in  two. 

Across  bottom;  Long  piece  of  narwhal  "horn;" 
ends  broken  off.     Probably  part  of  a  .spear-shaft. 

Plate  No.  3. 

Short,  sharp  blade  of  bone,  with  broad  flat  tang.  Per- 
haps an  ice-pick. 

Bone  "loose-shaft"  of  har|K)on. 

Second  row :  Wedge-shaped  i)iece  of  bone. 

I'iece  of  bone  resembling  a  whale-harpoon  togple- 
head  i  ody. 

Appears  to  be  a  bone  snow -knife. 

2-barbed  body  of  harpoon  toggle-head. 

Bone  beluga  (?)  dart-head. 

Oblong  flat  piece  of  bone,  perforated  for  a  rivet.  Per- 
haps fragment  of  sled-runner. 

Tip  of  walrus-tusk,  sawed  off"  and  perforated  in  base. 

Tip  of  walrus-tusk,  sawed  off  and  perfor.iled  in  base. 

Wedge-shaped  fragment  of  bone. 


12.  Third  row:  Angular  iragment  of  bone. 

13.  Fragment  of  bone  with  a  groove  across  it. 

14.  Perhaps  a  seal  club. 

15.  Bone  knob  for  staff  (?). 

16.  Foreshaft  of  harpoon. 

I'/.        Fourth  row:  Irregular  long  fragment  of  Ixjne.with  a 
notch  in  one  edge, 

18.  Oblong  flat  piece  of  kone  with  a  groove  across  each 

end.    Part  of  a  sled  (?). 

19.  Bit  of  bone  sled-runner,  with  rivet-holes. 

20.  I.arge  fragment  of  sled-iunner  (?). 

Plate  No.  4, 

1.  Unfinished  sled-runner,  whale's  jaw. 

2,  3.     Bone  sled-runners. 
4,  5.     Bo.ie  snow-knives. 

6.  Piece  of  bone  narrow  at  tip  and  spreading  out  at  base 

where  it  is  perforated  for  rivets  or  lashings. 

7.  Piece  of  sled-runner. 

8.  Bone  snow-knife. 

9.  F°lat  stick,  capped  with  bone  at  one  end. 

10.        Snow-knife  of  bone  with  handle  wedged  into  groove  in 

butt. 
11,12.  Bone  sled-runners. 

Plate  No.  5. 

1.  Piece  of  shoe  to  sled-runner. 

2.  Piece  of  bone ;  use  unknown. 

3.  Eskimo  lamp  of  steatite. 

4.  Probably  point  of  a  lance. 

5.  Probe  to  detect  the  presence  of  a  seal  at  the  breathing- 

hole.  (?; 

6.  Probably  fragment  of  probe;  use  same  as  No.  5. 

7.  Piece  of  bone ;  use  unknown. 

8.  Probably  butt  of  a  bird-dart  prong. 

9.  10.  Pieces  of  bone ;  use  unknown. 
11-16.  Pieces  of  shoe  to  sled-runner.         ' 

17.  Probably  part  of  bucket  handle. 

18.  Probably  point  of  a  lance. 

Plate  No.  6. 

1.  Sled  of  modem  Greenland  pattern,  made  of  pine  and 

lashed  with  seal-thong. 

2.  Sled  of  ancient  Greenland  pattern,  somewhat  dilapi- 

dated. Runners  of  driftwood,  shod  with  bone. 
See  Nos.  11-16,  Plate  No.  ij.  Three  cross-pieces  of 
wood  and  upstanders  of  whale-rib,  lashed  on  with 
thong. 


Appendix  No.  128. — List  of  maps  and  charts. 


Page. 

1.  Fort  Conger,  Grinnell  Land lo 

2.  Map  showing  drift,  travel, and  discoveries  on  retreat..       58 

3.  Chart  of  North  Greenland  Coast 186 


Page. 

4.  Chart  showing  excursion  of  steanla'.mchZai/cirrrt^.     236 

5.  Chart  showing  route  o!  sledge  cx|)edition,  1883 25a 

6.  M.-.p  of  Grinne'l  Laisd .. At  end  of  volume. 


h 


The  Lady  Kranklin  Bay  Expedition,  Vol.  1, 


Plate  I. 


[ 


\ 

^ 


Eskimo  Relics  Found  in  Vicinity  of  Fort  Conger. 

(From  a  photograph.) 


The  L»dy  Frtnklin  U«y  Bxncditlun,  Vol. ' 


Plate  II. 


J'sKiMo  Relics  Found  at  Junction  of  Lakk  Uazkn  and  Ruggles  River,  June,  1882. 

O'"roin  a  photograph.) 


The  Udy  Fraaklin  Bay  Bxpedition,  Vul.  1. 


Plato  III. 


Eskimo  Relics  Found  at  and  in  Vicinity  ok  Basil  Nokris  and  Sun  Bays. 

(From  a  photograph.) 


,'1 


A  : 


i 


E? 
r< 

X 

o 
B    o 

I  § 

a    o 

n 

> 


-g^CfrjjU^.^.  ^  ^^»1""^'"P 


I 


o 


o 

K 

pn 
m 
•/ 

s    - 
,.    •/ 

O 

3     n 


M 


o 
r 


I 


-    > 


«j«p«wiiPT-ufflin(llw,>;v.5VTWja| 


yr 


^f.  ■  ''■ 


ma 


',1 
11 


V ijMtiii:i;ii«ii iiiiiiiniiiw IIVI13": I'"  I  '"I. 


55H3i^^ 


>■ 


m 


I  ii 


AKiTIc-    llKilll  A^lll.l<^    IKOM    NciKlll    SlAK    SK  H  IIMINT,  SAIMURS    ISLAND. 
(Krom  a  iihotograph  by  Reliel  lixpcilitiun.) 


INDEX. 


Air,  collection  of  samples,  13, 103. 

Alcohol,  value  as  food,  85-86, 349. 

Alcohol  fumes,  asphyxir.tion  by,  81,  338, 433, 496-497. 

Aldrich,  Lieutenant,  cache  at  View  Point,  173. 

cited  on  coast  of  Grinnell  Land,  126. 
Alert,  records  obtained  at  Thank  Go<l  Harbor,  149-1 55. 

traces  and  cairn  at  Floeberg  Beach,  172-173. 
Alexandra  Fiord,  358. 

Alexandra  Harbor,  trip  to,  79-80,  430-431,  491-493, 
Alfred  Newton  Glacier,  location  of  quarters,  65. 
Allman  Bay,  58,  374-380. 
Altitudes,  Grinnell  Land,  295. 
Ames,  Dr.,  skill  and  attention,  91. 
Amusements,  335,  344. 
Anemometers,  instructions,  102, 
Annelida,  list  of  collections,  310. 
Apparatus,  memorandum  of  outfit,  107. 
Appendices,  list,  95-96. 

Appropriation,  amount  available  after  charter  of  vessel,  2. 
Archer,  Lieutenant,  cache  at  Hillock  Depot,  29,  iSo. 

cited  on  topography  of  Grinnell  Land,  126. 

copy  of  records  left  at  Thank  God  Harlx>r,  149-155. 
Archer  Fiord,  9,  ic,  29, 32, 126-127. 

report  of  trip  into,  and  depot  at,  23, 179-180. 

report  of  launch  trip,  35,  234-235. 
Arms  and  ammunition,  furnished  by  Chief  of  Ordnance,  2. 
Arthur  Land,  45,  290. 
Astronomical  apparatus,  list,  107. 
Astronomical  observations,  instructions,  loo-ioi. 

Cape  Baird,  266-267. 
Aurora,  connection  with  magnetic  disturbances,  38,  39. 

instructions  for  observations,  103, 104. 

Bache  Island,  geography,  61, 80, 358. 

Baird  Inlet,  report  of  trip  to,  82, 358-361. 

Barometer,  Garlington's  abandoned,  use  and  breakage,  71, 88. 

instructions  for  comparison,  102. 
Bears,  4, 36-37, 83, 88, 504-505. 

most  northern  point  reached  by,  163, 167. 
Beatrix  Bay,  45,  275,  283,  293. 

Beaumont,  Lieutenant,  caches  and  records  left  by,  27,  42,  43, 
186,  198,211,212. 

copy  of  records  left  at  Stanton  Gorge  and  Fepulse  Har- 
boT,  225-228. 


Beaumont  Island,  187  pi.  i. 

Beebe,  W.  M.,  relief-exi')edition  caches  and  records,  66, 68, 
457-458- 

copy  of  records  left  at  Brevoort  Island  by,  352-354. 
Beechey  Valley,  131,  139. 

Belcher,  Sir  E.,  cited  on  coast  of  Grinnell  Lu    !,  1 26. 
Bellot  Island,  29,  34. 
"  Bellows,"  report  on  trip  to,  10,  23, 124-125, 181-183. 

position  and  magnetic  bearings,  181-182. 
Bench-mark,  establishment,  8. 
Bender,  Private,  15, 19,  22,  29,  71. 

insubordination,  76,  78,  86-87,  376, 483, 486,  487, 490, 
5 '4. 

de.^th  and  statement  of  services,  90, 524, 525. 
Biederbick,  Private,  23,28,30,31,33,39,47,51,90,91. 

rejwrt  of  trip  up  Black  Rock  Vale,  28, 233. 

value  of  services,  79. 

recommendation  of  appointment  on  retired  list,  93. 

medical  report  as  steward,  334-339. 

promotion  to  hospital  steward,  493. 
Birds,  flight  to  be  observed,  104.  ' 

lists  of  collections,  299,  305-307. 
Black  Cape,  20,  21, 169, 171. 
Black  Cliffs,  131. 
Black  Horn  Cliffs,  43, 188, 197, 212,  250-251. 

tidal  observations,  256. 
Black  Rock  Valley,  28,  29,  33,  36. 

magnetic  bearings,  181-182,233-234. 
Bleak  Cape,  location  and  description,  1 24- 
Blubber,  value  as  fuel,  411. 
Blue  Cape,  203. 

Boats,  left  near  Cape  Camperdown,  61. 
Books,  list  of  outfit,  107. 
Botany,  orders  and  report  of  Dr.  Pavy,  45-46,  297,  299-300. 

lists  of  collections,  299-300,  302-304. 
Brainard,  Serjeant,  11,  29,  34,  40,  48,  53,  54,55,  61,62,64, 

72-73.75.79.86.91- 

report  on  establishing  depot  at  Cape  Beechey,  8, 1 1 5-1 1 7. 

report  on  atten)pted  trip  towards  United  States  Moun- 
tains, lo-ll. 

orders  and  report  on  trip  to  Greenland  coast,  17, 158-162. 

value  of  services  and  recommendation  for  promotion, 
28,45.47.49.87. 

report  on  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay,  37, 38,  239-242. 

537 


♦ 


I 


538 


INDEX. 


'4 


p<y^'\ 


i:  ill 


Biainard,  Sergeant,  report  on  trip  to  Cape  Cracroft,  44-45, 
270-273, 
report    on    Lieutenant  Lockwood's   trip   towards  the 

United  States  Mountains,  48, 317-319. 
advice  for  retreat  from  Victoria  Head,  60, 377. 
illness,  77. 

instructions  to,  in  case  of  death  of  commanding  offi- 
cer, 85, 86. 
journal  from  August  26,  1883,  92,441-529. 
letter  and  abstract  of  sledge  journal  on  North  Green- 
land coast,  215-224. 
report  on  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay,  239. 
report  on  fossils  found  at  Greely  Fiord,  296. 
transfer  to  Signal  Corps,  505. 
Brainard  Island,  25,  206-207,  208. 
Brenta  Bay,  215. 

Brevoort  Island,  copy  of  relief-expedition  records  from,  351- 
3S4- 
Nares'  record  and  Discovery  depot,  353. 
Brevoort  Peninsula,  route  across,  186. 
Buchanan  Strait,  60. 
Buys- Ballot  Glacier,  209. 

Cape  Albert,  position,  61. 

Cape  Baird,  establishment  of  depot  at,  12,  39-40. 

topography,  35,  270-271. 

astronomical  observations,  44,  266-267. 

tidal  and  ice  observations,  44, 265, 268. 

cairn  and  record  left,  51,  350-351. 
Cape  Beaufort,  119. 
Cape  Beechey,  report  on  establishment  of  Depot  B,  8, 1 15-1 18. 

reports  of  trips  to,  127-130, 142-143, 156-157. 

position,  44,  270. 

orders  and  report  on  tidal  observations,  44,  264-^65, 
269-270. 

list  of  provisions  at  Depot  B,  142. 
Cape  Benit,  25,  204,  209. 
Cape  Brainard,  45,  289. 
Cape  Britannia,  24-25,  187, 188  pi.  i,  203. 

cairn  and  record  left,  202,  232. 

coast  north  from,  c'escription  and  sketch,  202-203. 
Cape  Bryant,  Beaumont's  cache,  27, 212,  212. 

failure  of  tidal  observations,  26. 

ice  foot,  27. 

coast  north  from,  188. 

cairn  and  record  left,  198-199, 232, 

list  of  stores  cached,  232. 
Cape  Camperdown,  position,  and  abandonment  of  boats,  61, 
379-380. 

copy  of  record  left  in  boats,  351. 
Cape  Christiansen,  rocks  and  vegetation,  189. 

sketch  and  position,  207-208. 
Cape  Collinson,  Nares'  cache,  54-55, 371-372. 
Cape  Constitution,  122. 
Cape  Defosse,  35,  238,  239-240. 
Cape  Cracroft,  reixirts  on  tidal  observations  and  fossils,  270- 

273- 
Cape  Frazer,  55. 
Cape  Frederick,  25,  122,  188. 
Cape  Fulford,  cairn  and  record  left,  224. 
Cape  Hr.wks,  English  cache,  5,  57-58,  374,441. 
Cape  H;cla,  20,  175. 


Cape  Hoffmeyer,  25, 205,  209. 

cairn  and  record  left,  209. 
Cape  Isabella,  English  cache,  69,  70-71,  72,  354-356,  393, 
396-397. 4<5o.  462. 465-467- 

copy  of  record  left,  438. 
Cape  Israel,  80. 
Cape  Joseph  Henry,  orders  and  report  on  trip  north  of,  17, 

18-19,20-21,  165-178. 
Cape  Kane,  25,  26,  206,  207, 208. 
Cape  Lawrence,  53, 370-37  «• 
Cape  Lieber,  6,  238. 
Cape  Lock  wood,  45,  290. 
Cape  T  oT!g,  So,  492. 
Cape  Lupton,  145. 
Cape  McClintock,  55. 
Cape  Mohn,  25, 205. 

cairn  and  record,  209. 
Cape  Murchison,  report  of  trips  to,  9,  1 19-120. 
C«po  iv'apoleon,  57.  ^ 

Capt.  Norton  Shaw,  55. 
Cape  Payer,  209. 
Cape  Ralston,  209. 
Cape  Ramsay,  187  pi.  ii,  205,  208. 
Cape  Rawson,  172. 
Cape  Rutherford,  357. 
Cape  Sabine,  plan  for  reaching,  60, 64, 67, 446, 449. 

caches,  66, 68, 69, 351-352, 387-392, 457-458. 

removal  from  Eskimo  Point  to,  68-69, 458-461. 

quarters,  description  and  cuts,  354, 394-395. 

storehouse,  394, 464. 
Cape  Sheridan,  21, 172. 
Cape  Stephens,  358. 
Cape  Sumner,  41, 146-147, 191,  249. 

tidal  observations,  257-258. 
Cape  Surprise,  25. 

Cape  Union,  coast  northward  from,  168, 169, 170. 
Cape  Viele,  357-358. 
Cape  Washington,  26, 205, 208. 
Cape  VVijkander,  205,  209. 
Carl  Ritter  Bay,  depot,  6,  51. 

orders  and  reports  on  trips  to,  35,  37,  38,  237-238, 
239-242. 

record  left,  238,  240. 
Cary  Islands,  Nares'  cache,  4. 

plan  of  retreat  to,  67. 

record  left,  109. 
Chandler  Fiord,  21, 31, 32. 

report  of  launch  trip  up,  35, 236,  pi. 
Chief  of  Engineers,  scientific  instruments  furnished  by,  2, 
Chief  of  Ordnance,  arms  and  ammunition  furnished  by,  2. 
Chipp  Inlet,  187  pi.  ii. 

Christiansen,  F.  T.,  Eskimo.     See  Frederik  Thorlip  Chris- 
tiansen. 
Christmas,  14,  39,  74,  408-409,  475.      * 
Clay,  H.,  employment  and  subsequent  relief,  3, 7. 

recommendations  for  relief  expedition,  462. 

camp  at  Cape  Sabine  named  for,  462. 
Clothing,  furnished  by  Quartermaster-General,  2, 98. 

purchased  at  Upernivik  and  Proven,  3. 

list  for  North  Greenland  exploration,  230. 

report  of  commanding  officer  on,  335, 340. 
louds,  instructions  for  observations,  102, 


INDEX. 


539 


Coal,  traces  and  seams  found,   lo,  13,  31,  49,  S>>  122,  125, 
181,233. 
amount  on  hand  for  retreat,  51, 58. 
report  on  Watercourse  Bay,  III. 
Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  scientific  instruments  furnished 
by,  2. 
pendulum,  tidal,  and  magnetic  observations  reduced 

by,  14-15.44.50- 

instructions  for  magnetic  observations,  105-106. 
Cobb  River,  34. 

Cocked  Hat  Island,  attempt  to  reach,  61-64,  380-383. 
Commissary-General,  stores  furnished  by,  2,98,  108-109. 
Conical  Hill,  search  for  pemmican  left  by  Markham,  173. 
Conger,  t).  D.,  station  named  in  honor  of,  7. 
Conger  Inlet,  207, 208. 
Conger  Mountains,  32. 
Connell,  Sergeunt,  1 1, 18,  22,  23,  29, 47, 54, 60. 

reduction,  387,457. 
Constant  weights,  24, 41, 186, 193, 199, 254,  317. 
Conybeare,  Lieutenant,  search  for  depot  left  in  Sun  Bay  by,  9. 
Conybeare  Bay,  21. 
Cooking  at  Cape  Sabine,  71-72. 
Cross,  Private,  15, 19,34,49. 

intoxication,  and  relief  from  duty,  51-52, 369, 388,  454, 
458. 

death  and  burial,  75, 416, 454, 458, 480. 
Crozier  Island,  20. 
Crustacea,  list  of  collections,  309. 
Currents,  southeast,  off  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  4. 

observations  to  be  made,  104. 

report  on  Cape  Beechey,  118. 

Daly  Peninsula,  35,  239. 

Deaths,  list,  with  date  and  cause,  338, 365. 

report  of  commanding  officer  on  cause,  348. 
Decoration  day,  observance,  23, 46. 
De  Long  Fiord,  205. 
Depot  Crossing  Bay,  English  record,  225. 
Depot  Point,  search  for  English  cache,  235. 
Devil's  Head,  124,  125. 
Diaries,  order  to  Dr.  Pavy,  refusal  to  comply,  arrest  and  charges, 

48-49.  3«9.3*«-322- 
instructions  relative  to,  loi. 
copy  of  Lieutenant  Lockwood's,  366-440. 
copy  of  Sergeant  Brainard's,  441-529. 
extract  from  Private  Schneider's,  with  letters  on  finding, 

529-534- 
Dip-circle,  error  in  forwarding,  30. 
Discovery,  records  from,  6,  iii,  149-155. 353- 

articles  abandoned,  9, 1 19. 

decoration  of  head-stones  of  dead,  23. 

cache  near  Brevoort  Island,  353. 
Discovery  Harbor,  location  of  station,  6. 
Distant  Cape,  118, 127, 129, 138, 203. 
Dobbin  Bay,  57. 

Dog  food,  amount  consumed  on  Greenland  trip,  254. 
Dogs,  purchased  at  Godbavn  and  Kitenbenk,  3. 

loss  from  contagion  with  those  puichoseil  at  Upemivik,  4. 

puppy  team,  19. 

harness  eaten  by,  41, 170, 246. 

speed,  with  light  and  loaded  sledges,  42. 


Dogs,  abandoned  at  Fort  Conger,  49. 
Dragon  Point,  English  cairn  and  record,  226. 
Drift  Point,  312-213,  222,  253. 

Drift-wood,  9,  10,  11,  33,  55,  124,  128-129,  189,  195,  235, 
525,  528. 

instructions  for  observations,  104. 

list  of  collections,  313-314. 

list,  description,  and  outs  of  specimens,  534-535. 

Karth  currents,  instructions  for  observations,  104. 

Edward,  Jens,  Eskimo.     See  Jen.s  Edward. 

Eggs,  list  of  specimens,  316-317. 

Eggs  of  knot,  description,  47. 

Elbcrg,  Mr.,  diseased  dogs  purchased  from,  4. 

Electricity,  atmosjiheric,  observations  to  be  made,  104. 

Elison,  Corporal,  15,  22,  28,  30, 41, 46,  71,  77,  78. 

report  of  trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay,  35,  237-238. 

value  of  services,  47, 92. 

rescue  and  subsequent  illness,  72-76,  355-356,  396-397, 
465-467. 

death,  92, 338.  •     ^ 

Elison  Island,  187  pi.  i,  2113. 
Ella  Bay,  45,  235,  274-275,  278, 280-281. 
Ellis,  Private,  17, 30, 47. 

death,  88,  518. 
Emory,  Lieutenant,  91. 

Envall,  Dr.,  cited  on  use  of  liquors  in  Arctic  regions,  349. 
Eric,  record  found  at  Littleton  Island,  5. 
Eskimo  Point,  stay  at,  during  retreat,  65-68,  386-388,  454- 

458. 
Eskimo  relics,  28- .<9,  31,  33,  34,  47,  55,  65,  235,  236,  240, 
499.500,501,525. 

list  of  collections,  311-312. 

list  ind  description  of  photographs,  535-536,  pi.  i-vi. 
Eskimos,  character  and  treatment,  14, 

value  in  extended  sledge  journeys,  168. 
Evaporation,  instructions  for  observations,  104. 
Exercise,  327,  335, 344, 346. 

"Farthest  North,"  25-26. 

description,  sketch,  and  determination  of  position,  187  pi. 
ii,  207-208. 

copy  of  record  left,  232. 
Fire,  in  officers'  quarters  at  Fort  Conger,  39. 
Fires,  allowed  to  die  down  during  night,  43. 
Fishes,  list  of  collections,  308. 
Floeberg  Beach,  visit  to  English  cairn  and  deposit  of  record, 

21, 172-173- 
Foehn,  39. 

Fog,  delay  caused  by,  4,  5 1 ,  53,  54. 
Food,  weekly  allowance  for  second  winter,  36. 

amount  on  hand  for  return  trip,  51, 58, 59. 

amount  on  hand  on  reaching  Sabine  Island,  65. 

arrangements  for  division,  71, 84. 

thefts  of,  92-93. 

list  of  subsistence  stores  taken,  with  remarks,  108-109. 

report  of  commanding  officer  on,  342-349. 

bill  of  fare  November  8-15,  1883,  396. 

See,  also.  Ration. 
Fort  Conger,  abandonment,  49, 50-51, 322-323, 366-369. 

copy  of  order  for  abandonment,  322. 


540 


INDEX. 


E  'tsj 


Fort  Conger,  list  of  stores  left,  323, 440, 
Fossils,  35.45.47.290. 

report  on  Cape  Cracroft,  272-273. 
report  on  (ireely  Fiord,  296. 
list  of  collections,  314-315. 
Foxes,  wintering  in  Grinnell  Land,  42. 
Frankfield  Bay,  coast  north  from,  198. 
Frederick,  I'rivate,  15,  22,  28,  29, 46, 52, 56, 76, 77, 79. 
value  of  services,  71-72,  83. 
report  on  trip  to  Cape  Isabella  and  rescue  of  Elison, 

7*.  354-356. 
promotion  and  transfer  to  Signal  Corps,  83,  89,  489- 

490. 
report  of  trip  to  Baird  Inlet,  83, 358-361. 
recommendation  of  appointment  on  retired  list,  93. 
Frederik  Thorlip  Christiansen,  Eskimo,  3,  10,  14,  18,  20,  29, 40, 
48, 51, 6;,  6S.  69,  72,  79-So. 
lllnLSS,  death,  and  statement  of  services,  81,  83,  83, 
437. 502- 

Game,  near  Tort  Conger,  34. 

west  of  C;rinnell  I.ind  Di'  ide,  tfo. 
Gap  Valley,  188,  213,  221,  250. 

lidal  observations,  257. 
Garden,  failure,  23. 
(jardintr,  Sergeaiil,  10,  13,35,47. 

report  on  trip  to  Cape   Murcliison  and  routes  in  St. 

Patrick  Bay,  9,  119. 
orders  and  report  on  tidal  and  ice  observations  at  Cane 

Baird,  44,  265,  268. 
report  on  fossils  collected  at  C.".pe  Cracroft,  44-45,  272- 

273. 
death  and  statement  of  services,  91,  526,  53-;. 
Gardinei  Bay,  209. 
Garfield  Mountains,  r     32,  275. 
Garlington,  Lieutenant,  58,457-458,475,493, 

recor  I  and  cache  left  at  Cape  .Sabine,  66, 68, 69. 
copy  of  record  left  at  Brevoort  Island,  351-352. 
Geographical  \'ork,  .summary,  50,438. 

instructions,  99. 
Glacier,  description  and  cut,  278  pi.  i-iii,  281-282, 
Godhavn,  purchase  of  dogs  and  stores  at,  2-3. 
Gorge  Creek,  213. 

Grcely,  Lieutenant,  commanding  officer,  report,  1-93. 
trip  to  Sun  Bay,  9. 

attempted  trip  to  United  States  Mountains,  10. 
exploration  of  interior  of  Grinnell  Land,  19,  21-22,  29, 

3«-  34- 
illncFs,  86,  506-510, 5,  j. 
or.ler  assigning  to  command,  97, 99. 
reixirt  on  hygiene  of  expedition,  339-349. 
extract  from  journal  showing  discoveries   in   Hayes 

.Sound,  357-358- 
certificate  to  Dr.  Pavy,  and  letter  to  Chief  Signal  Offi- 
cer on  same,  362-363. 
report  to  Secretary  of  War  on  execution  of  Private 

Henry,  363-364. 
letter  to  Chief  Signal  Officer,  transmitting  diary  of  Pr: 
vate  Schneider,  529-530. 
Greely  Fiord,  45,  277  pi.  iii-iv,  289-290,  296. 
Green,  Dr.,  skill  and  attention,  91. 


Greenland  coast,  orders  and  reports  on  preliminary  trips  in 
1882,  15, 17,  142-143, 144-148, 156-162. 
orders  and  reports  on  exploration  in  1882, 18,  22,  23- 

28,  182-232  pi.  i-ii,  map. 
orders  and  report  on  preliminary  trip  in  1883,  40,41, 

243-245- 
orders  and  report  on  exploration  in  1883,41,43,247, 

249-255  ch. 
plans  for  retreat  to,  60,  63,  77.78.356-357.382,422- 

423- 
vegetation,  189. 

list  of  distances  traveled,  230, 254. 
report  on  tidal  and  meteorological  observations,  255-259. 
Grimm,  Corporal,  desertion,  2. 

Grinnell  Land,  exploration  of  interior,  19,  21-22,  29,  31-34, 50, 
orders,  report,  and  journal  of  trip  across,  43, 45, 48, 274- 

296  pi.  i-iv,  317-319. 
argiirii'nt  for  sea  west  of,  126. 
ta  jle  of  distances  and  altitudes  across,  294-295. 
Grinnell  Land  Divide,  35,  276-277,  287-288,  291,  293,  317- 
318. 

Hall,  Captain,  visit  to  grave,  16, 145,  260,  262. 
Hall  Basin,  condition  of  ice  in  summer  of  1882,  34, 
Hand,  J.,  visit  tr  grave,  16.  145,  260-262. 
Hand  Bay,  212,  223. 
Ilarley's  Spit,  172,  173. 

Hawkins,  Major,  super i^ision  of  commissary  stores,  2. 
Hayes  .Sound,  So,  357-358. 
Hazeu  Coast,  23-28. 

Hcalth,monthly  report  of  commanding  officer,  8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 
15.  «6,  23.30.34.38,39.40.42,43.46,48,49,59, 
74. 76, 82. 

order  restricting  use  of  beds,  37. 

hygiene  at  Fort  Conger,  16. 

letter  of  Dr.  Pavy  on  early  spring  field-woik,  with  reply, 
40-41,  242-243. 

first  signs  of  weakness,  75. 

medical  report  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor,  264. 

medical  reports  of  Dr.  Pavy,  324-334. 

medical  report  of  Steward  Biederbick,  334-339. 

report  of  commanding  officer  on  hygiene,  339-349. 
Henrietta  Nesniith  Glacier,  22,32. 

Henry,  Private,  thefts  of  food,  72,  8:-82,  86,  go,  434, 497, 498, 
510,513,524,531. 

insu'iordination,  76. 

execution,  90, 9.1-93,  ,i63-365,  523-524. 

report  of  commanding  officer  on  execution,  with  letter 
from  .Secretary  of  War,  36  ,  364. 
Hillock  Depot,  Lngli.sh  cache,  29,  180. 
Hoar  frosl,  ir.structions  lor  observations,  103. 
Hooker,  J.  1).,  cited  on  vegetation  of  Grinnell  Land,  126. 
Howgate,  Capt.iin,  pemmican  furnished  by,  3. 
Humidity  .^hs(■;  vatiuns,  intructions,  102. 
Hunt  Fion;,  26,  208. 
Hygiene,  report  of  commanding  officer,  339-349. 

Ste,  also.  Health. 

Ice,  Greenland  coast  to  Fort  Conger,  l88l,  ?,  5, 6. 

thickness  at  en''    f  month,  8, 11,  12,  13,  14, 15,  16,23, 
30. 3'.  38.  39. 40, 42. 4^.  74- 


INDEX. 


541 


Ice,  time  nf  opening,  29,  je,  31. 

II til  n.-ikin  and  Kennedy  Channel,  summer  of  1883, 

34-35.  36,  38. 

Kane  Basin,  August,  1 883,  58. 

Smith  Sound,  1884,  78,  79-80,  87, 486-488. 

rc|x)rt  on  paleocrystic,  44,  163,  268-269. 

itiratification  of  floebcrgs,  44,  268. 

mer  ile glace  in  interior  of  (Irinnell  Land,  45,  276,  277- 
278  pi.  ii,  281-282. 

diflTiculty  of  crossing  after  new  ice  forms,  54, 66-67. 

instructions  for  observations,  104. 

character  of  Tolar  Ocean,  173-174,  174-177. 

character  of  North  Greenland  coast,  188-189. 
Icebergs,  240,  278. 
Iceboat,  left  at  Thank  God  Harbor  by  Lieutenant  Beaumont, 

42.43- 
Insects,  list  of  collections,  308. 
Instructions,  general  conduct  of  the  expedition,  99-100. 

scientific  observations,  100-107. 
Instruments,  scientific,  furnished  by  Chief  of  Engineers  and 

Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  2. 
International  imlar  conference,  instructions  for  observations, 

instruments  and  time,  101-104. 
International  iK)lar  stations,  origin  and  number,  i. 
Israel,  Sergeant,  14,  36, 61, 88. 

rejOTrt  en  trip  into  the  Bellows,  23,  l8r-l82. 
illness,  death,  and  character,  88,  89,  516-521. 
orders  and  report  on  astronomical  observations  at  Cape 
Baird,  266-267. 
"Issue-day,"  71. 

Jeannette,  search  for  traces,  8,  10,  11,  17,20,  120, 122, 130, 

166, 167, 183. 
loss  learned  by  expedition,  390. 
Jens  Edward,  Eskimo,  3,  15, 17, 18-19, 39. 76-77. 
disappearance  and  rescue,  13. 
drowning,  86,  511. 
Jewell,  Sergeant,  20,  22,  2?,  54,  55, 56,  57. 

reports  on  trips  to  Lincoln  Bay,  17-18,  41,  163-165, 

246-247. 
report  on  tidal  and  meteorological  observations  in  North 

Greenland,  43,  255-259. 
orders  and  report  on  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey, 

44, 264-265. 
report  on  paleocrystic  ice,  44,  268-269. 
report  on  tidal  observations  at  Cape  Beechey,  44,  269- 

270. 
death  and  statement  of  services,  83, 505. 
meteorological  report  on  trip  to  Cape  Beechey,  117- 

118. 
report  on  trip  from  Cape  Beechey  to  Greenland  coast, 

231- 
Jewell  Inlet,  205. 
Joiner  Bay,  55. 
July  4,  celebration,  30. 

Kane  Basin,  retreat  beset  by  ice  in,  59-65,  372-385,442-451. 

plans  and  advice  for  retreat  from,  63,  383,  439,  450. 
Kennedy  Channel,  condition  of  ice  in  summers  of  1882  and 

1883.  34.  35.  38.  48. 
Kislingbury,  Lieutenant,  i,  52,  55,  62,  71,  81,  86. 


Kislingbury,  Lieutenant,  report  of  trip  to  Life  Boat  Cove,  5, 
no. 
relief  and  suhsecpient  connection  with  expedition,  7, 
collection  of  lichens,  49. 

advice  fur  retreat  from  Victoria  Head,  60,  377. 
insubordination,  60,  377,  387. 
letter  recommending  division  of  party,  78,  356-357, 

427- 
ordered  to  duty,  83,  503. 

recommendation  of  increase  of  ration,  84,  85,  361. 
re<|uest  for  certiticate,  and  discussion  resulting,  87. 
illness  and  death,  89,  512,  514,  522. 
letters,  statement,  and  orders  in  connection  with  relief, 
1 12-114. 
Kislingbury  Valley,  52. 
Knot,  description  of  egg,  47. 

Lady  Franklin  Bay,  order  for  location  ol  station,  97. 

Lake  Appleby,  31. 

Lake  Ha^en,  description,  22,  31,  32,  ^y 

route  to,  29,  36,  233-234. 

vegetation,  ^^.  '         •  - 

Lake  Heintzelman,  28. 
Lake  Rogers,  31. 
Lectures,  16,  37,  73,  335. 
Lichens,  collection  abandoned,  49, 

value  as  food,  90,  348,  523,  528,  533. 
Life  Boat  Cove,  report  of  trip  to,  5,  no. 
Lime-juice,  issue,  II,  16,  324-334,  344. 
Lincoln  Bay,  orders  and  reports  on  trips  to,  9-10,  17-18, 120- 
123,  163-165,  167-170, 246-247. 

report  on  trip  to  Fort  Conger  from,  178-179. 
Linn,  Sergeant,  8,  17,  22,  28,  31,  33,  72-73. 

report  on  moving  depot  to  Cape  Murchison,  9,  119- 
120. 

report  on  trip  into  Black  Rock  Vale,  29,  233. 

reduction  and  subsequent  reappointment,  36,  457. 

death  and  statement  of  services,  82,  83,  437,  502,  503. 
Little  Bay,  cairn  built,  205. 
Littleton  Island,  4. 

reply  to  criticism  relative  to  withdrawal  to,  58-59. 

attempted  trip  to,  76-77,  483-487. 

plan  for  reaching,  78,  356-357,  374-376. 
Lockwood,  Lieutenant,  1,4,  5,  8,  39,  62,  63.  64,  72-73. 

report  on  Water  Course  Bay,  6,  in. 

report  on  SU  Patrick  Bay,  7-8,  1 14-115. 

report  on  trip  to  the  Bellows,  10,  124-125. 

report  on  sledge  journey  to  Cape  Beechey,  n ,  1 27- 1 29. 

report  on  St.  Patrick  Valley,  12,  133-134. 

orders  and  report  on  attempted  crossing  of  Robeson 
Channel,  12-13,  134-138. 

orders  and  report  on  preliminary  trip  to  Cape  Beechey, 
15,  142-143- 

orders  and  report  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor,  16-17, 
144-148. 

orders  and  sledge  journal  on  exploration  of  north  coast 
of  Greenland,  18,  22,  23-28,  182-215  pi.  i-ii,  map. 

value  of  geographical  work,  27-28. 

trip  up  Archer  Fiord,  29. 

report  of  launch  trip  up  Archer  Fiord,  35,  234-235. 

report  of  launch  trip  up  Chandler  Fiord,  35,  236, 


542 


INDEX. 


LockwiKxi,  Lieutenant,  ordjw  ami  report  on  iireliininary  trip 
on  Nortli  CJrecnland  coast  in  1883,40,41,243-245, 

orders  and  report  on  exploration  of  Greenland  in  i88j, 
4'.  43.  247.  249-255.  ch. 

orders  and  report  on  crossing  of  Grinnell  Land,  43,  45, 
274-29 «• 

orders  to  relieve  Dr.  Pavy  as  naturalist,  46,  298. 

letter,  reimrt,  and  inventory  of  natural  history  collec- 
tions, 47,  29S-3 17. 

trip  into  ;h?  interior  of  Grinnell  Land,  48,  317-319 

advice  for  retreat  from  Victoria  Head,  60,  377. 

illness  and  death,  75,  76,  82,  83,  4«7-4«8.  481-482, 
503.  504- 

character,  82. 

journal  from  August  3,  1883,  92,  366-440. 

orders  to  receive  medical  stores  from  Dr.  Pavy,  319. 

list  of  articles  left  at  Fort  Conger,  440. 
Lockwood  Island,  description,  25-26,  206-208. 

cairn  and  record,  26,  207-208. 

nature  of  interior,  188. 

.sketch  of  "  Farthest "  and  next  point  beyoml,  207,  208. 

copy  of  record  left,  232. 
Long,  Private,  16,  29,  30,  35,  40,  46,  49,  69,  79,  82,  83,  86. 

report  on  trip  into  Archer  Fiord,  23,  179-180. 

value  of  services,  71-72,  83. 

trip  to  Alexandra  Ilarlior  for  game,  79-80,  430-431. 

assignment  to  Sign.1l  Service,  89. 

trip  into  Hayes  Sound,  357   ~jO. 
Longitude,  special  instructions  on  determination,  103. 
Low  Point,  204-205. 

Magnetic  apparatus,  list,  107. 

Magnetic  declination  at  Cape  Camperdown,  61. 

Magnetic  observations,  1 1 ,  30. 

instructions,  39,  100, 101, 102-103, 104.  105-106. 

transmitted  to  Coast  Survey,  50. 
Magnetic  storm,  38. 
Magnetometer,  breakage,  39. 
Mammalia,  list  of  collections,  308. 
^Maps,  instructions  for,  loi. 

list,  536. 
Markham,  A.  H.,  search  for  pemmican  left  at  Conical  Hill 

by.  173- 
Markham  Island,  203. 
Mary  Murray  Island,  25,  26,  187  pi.  ii,  205-206. 

record  left,  208,  232. 
Mascart  Inlet,  204,  209. 
Medical  reixjrts  of  the  expedition,  324-349. 

See,  a/so.  Health. 
Medical  stores,  furnished  by  Surgeon-General,  2,  98. 

order  transferring  from  Dr.  Pavy  to  Lieutenant  Lock- 
wood,  319. 

character  and  quality  of  outfit,  323,  330,  339-340. 
Medicine,  allowance  at  Cape  Sabine,  70. 
Medusa,  list  of  collections,  310. 
Melville,  Chief  Engineer,  91. 
Melville  Bay,  remarkably  favorable  passage,  4. 
Merry,  Lieutenant,  inspection  of  Proteus,  I. 
Meteorological  apparatus,  list,  107. 
Meteorological  forms,  list,  107. 


Meteorological  olaervations,  summary  for  month,  at  Fort  Con- 
ger, 8,  II,  12,  13,  14.  15.  «6,  18,  20,  23,  30,  34, 
35.  36,  37.  38.  39.  40.  42.  44.  46.  48.  5°.  7«.  74. 
75.  76,  78. 
instructions,  39,  100-102,  103-104. 
trips  in  Grinnell  Land,  'I9-120,   125,  130,  134,  138, 

141,  164-165,  181-182,  233,  234,  247,  279-294. 
Greenland  coast,  148,  162,  187,  228-229,  255,  258-259. 
trip  over  Polar  Ocean,  166-177. 
results  for  i88i-'83,  at  Fort  Conger,  350. 
Eskimo  Point  and  Cape  Sabine,  390-437,  457-529- 
Meteors,  blue,  38. 

instructions  for  observations,  104. 
Mineralogy,  list  of  specimens,  314-315. 
Molloy,  Consul,  assistance  rendered  by,  a. 
Mollusca,  list  of  collections,  309. 
Moonlight,  determination  of  intensity,  38. 
Morley,  E.,  instructions  for  air  samples  furnished  by,  13. 
Mount  Arthur,  ascent,  elevation,  and  position,  32,  33-34. 
Mount  Arthur  Eugene,  319. 
Mount  Augur,  32. 
Mount  Beaufort,  8, 12, 122. 

ascent,  elevation,  position,  and  deposit  of  record,  116, 
118. 
Mount  Biederbick,  32. 

Mount  Campbell,  exjiosure  of  self-registering  instruments  on,  12. 
Mount  Carey,  80,  358. 
Mount  Cartmel,  114,  120. 
Mount  Easy,  ascent,  284. 
Mount  Gardiner,  205. 
Mount  Linn,  record  and  cairn  left,  32. 
Mount  Neville,  32,  126. 
Mount  Parry,  cache,  140,  141. 
Musk-calves,  captured  and  tamed,  29,  37. 
Musk-meat,  value  as  food,  243. 
Musk-ox  Valley,  275-276,  277,  284-286,  292.  , 

Nares'  expedition,  cache  at  Cary  Island,  4. 

cairn  at  Littleton  Island,  5. 

record  and  cache  at  Washington  Irving  Island,  5, 57-58. 

articles  abandoned,  23,  30,  260. 

decoration  of  graves  of  dead,  46. 

cache  at  Cape  Collinson,  54-55,  371-372. 

cache  at  Cape  Sabine,  66. 

cache  at  Cape  Isabella,  68, 69,  70-71,  72, 354. 

list  of  stores  left  at  Lincoln  Bay,  122,  123. 

copy  of  records  left  on  Greenland  coast,  225-328. 

visit  to  graves  of,  at  Thank  God  Harbor,  260. 

record  on  Brevoort  Island,  353. 
Natural  history,  orders  relative  to,  45-46,  297. 

formation  and  packing  of  collection,  47. 

instructions  for  observations  and  collections,  99,  104. 

report  and  inventory  of  collections,  300-317. 
Neptune,  copy  of  records  left  at  Brevoort  Island,  352-354. 

cache  at  Cape  Sabine,  387-392,  457-458. 
Newman  Bay,  145,  146,  188,  249-250. 
Newspaper  "Arctic  Moon,"  13,  335. 
Nordenskiold  Inlet,  209. 
North  Cape,  188. 
North  Valley,  318. 


INDEX. 


543 


Occultation,  d  Pisrium,  37. 

Ockenion,  J.  A.,  letlen  transmitting  diary  nf  Private  Schneider, 
and  account  nf  finding,  S'!>~SJ<>- 

Organization  of  expedition,  1. 

War  Department  orders,  97-99.  ' 

lilt  of  ofiiccn  and  men,  98-99, 
instructions  from  the  Signal  ('""xc,  98-107. 

Osbom,  Admiral  S.,  cited  on  crossing  young  ice,  67, 

Parhelia,  cut,  310. 

Taul,  C.  \V.,  visit  to  grave,  16,  260,  262. 

Pavy,  Dr.,  reported  at  Godhavn,  1,  3. 

collection  of  supplies  at  Ritenbenk,  3. 

proposal  to  leave  expedition,  7, 

orders  and  reports  on  trips  towards  Cape  Joseph  Henry, 

8,  9-10,  II,  130-133,  141-142. 
orders  and  report  on  trip  to  Lincoln  Hay,  9-10, 120-123. 
orders  and  report  on  trip  down  Archer  Fiord,  10,  126- 

127. 
orders  and  report  on  trip  to  Wrangel  Bay,  13,  139-142. 
orders  and  report  on  trip  northward  over  I'ular  Ocean, 
^  17,  18-19,  20-21,  165-178. 

orders  and  reix>rt  on  trip  to  Grcenlarul  coast,  17,  156- 

IS8. 
visit  to  Polans  boat  camp  and  Thank  God  Harbor,  22- 

n- 

renewed  contract,  34, 

trip  to  Carl  Ritter  Bay,  35,  37, 38,  237. 

letter  on  early  spring  field-work,  with  reply,  40-41, 242- 

243- 

general  health  rei)orts  ordered,  42. 

orders  and  medical  re|X)rt  on  trip  to  Thank  God  Har- 
bor, 42,  43,  248,  264. 

orders  relative  to  natural  history  data  and  botanical 
specimens,  45-46,  297. 

search  for  fossils  at  Cape  Baird,  46. 

relieved  as  naturalist,  46,  298. 

refusal  to  renew  contract,  and  orders  to  turn  over  prop- 
erty, 48,  319-321. 

refusal  to  turn  over  diary,  arrest  and  charges,  48-49, 
321-322. 

advice  for  retreat  from  Victoria  Head,  60,  377. 

recommendation  of  increase  of  ration,  70,  84-85,  86, 
361-362. 

theft  of  food  and  medicine,  74,  83,  84,  85,  87,  89-90, 
363,411,499,531. 

recommendation  of  issue  of  alcohol,  85. 

insubordination,  86,  381,  387,  514,  521. 

certificates  to,  with  letters  from  commanding  officer  to 
Chief  Signal  Officer,  87,  362-363,  518. 

illness  and  death,  90,  523,  524,  525. 

character  and  services,  90,  514,  519. 

instructions  for  contract  with,  99. 

failure  to  report  promptly,  140,  166,  178. 

list  of  natural  history  specimens,  299-300, 

request  for  detail  of  Steward  Biederbick,  with  reply,  320. 

medical  reports,  324-334. 
Pavy  River,  35,  237. 

Payer  Harbor,  English  cache,  390, 391,  464, 
Peirce,  C,  pendulum  instructions  furnished  by,  15. 
Pemmican,  obtained  at  Godhavn,  3. 


Pemmican,  value  as  fixKl,  345. 

Pemlulum,  arrangement  for  return  trip,  50,  61, 

Pendulum  ap)>aralus,  memorandum,  107. 

Pendulum  olmcrvations,  14-15,  ■04- 

Petersen,  N.C.,  tomb,  172. 

Petrifactions,  271,  296. 

list  of  specimens,  314-315, 
Photographs,  list,  535. 
Plants,  lime  of  flowering,  29,  47. 

re|)ort  of  Dr.  Pavy,  and  lists  of  S|H.'Cimens,  45-46,  297, 
299-300, 302-304. 
Pocket  Bay,  205. 
Point  of  Rocks,  1 28. 
Polar  Ocean,  orders  and  report  on  trip  over,  17, 18-19,  20-21, 

165-178. 
Polans,  report  on  winter  iiuartir^i  at  Life  Boat  Cove,  5,  145. 

records,  observatory,  and  stores  at  Thank  God  Harbor, 
16. 
Polaris  I)oat  camp,  146,  188,  191. 

cairn  and  record,  214,  217-218. 

list  of  stores  cached,  232. 

record  left,  232. 

li.st  of  supplies  taken  from  Knglish  caches,  254. 
Precipitation,  instructions  for  ohservaliiins,  192. 
Pressure,  lowest  reconled  at  station,  40. 

fluctuations,  42. 

instructions  for  observations,  10I-103.  ' 

Princess  Marie  Bay,  358. 
Promontory  Point,  location,  145. 
Proteus,  inspection  and  contract,  1,98, 

delay  for  repairs,  5. 

discharge  and  departure  from  Fort  Tonger,  7, 

caches  left  by,  and  lo.ss  on  relief  expedition,  351-352, 
387-392,  457-458, 460. 
Pyramid  Mountain,  282. 

Quartermaster  General,  clothing  and  camp  equipage  furnished 

by,  2, 98. 
Quarters,  Fort  Conger,  7, 335, 340-342. 

Eskimo  Point,  65,393,455-456. 

Cape  Sabine,  69,  74,  337,  345-34<>,  354  (cut),  393, 

394-395  ("").  460, 
report  of  commanding  officer  on,  340-342, 345-346. 

Radiation,  solar,  observations  to  be  made,  104. 
Radmore  Harbor,  53, 
Rae,  Dr.,  cited  on  crossing  young  ice,  67, 
Ralston,  Sergeant,  22,  28,  84,  507. 

death  and  value  of  services,  88, 519. 

meteorological  report  on  sledge  journey  to  Greenland 
coast,  162. 
Ration,  Cape  Sabine,  65,  69,  70,  71,  75,  76,  77,  79,  81,  84, 
337-338. 346, 347, 361-362, 463. 

sledging,  135,  183-184,  199,  243-244.  255.  295.  325. 

345- 

Fort  Conger,  343. 

Eskimo  Point,  391, 392. 
Rawlings  Bay,  53,  370-371. 
Record  Point,  Archer's  record,  235. 

record  left,  235,  283. 
Records,  preparation  of  scientific,  36, 


544 


INDEX. 


Recnrdi,  arranKemcnt  for  return  trip,  50. 

onlvrs  for  ile|MH>it,  99. 

ex|ic-(liliiin,  copies,  iio-lll,  jjj,  350,351. 

KiiKlish,  copicH,  149-155,225-228. 

relief  cxpcilition,  ciipiex,  351-354. 
Records  left  l>y  vx|M:<litiun,  lucatiuu: 

Ca|H:  Dairil,  51,  350. 

Ca|)c  Drilannin,  202,  232. 

Cape  Krynnt,  198-199,  232. 

Cape  Camperdown,  witli  boats  near,  61,6a,  351. 

Ca|>e  Kulford,  224. 

Cai>c  HotTiiH-yer,  209. 

Cnpc  Isabella,  438. 

Cape  Molin,  209. 

Carl  Rittcr  Ray,  238,  240. 

Cary  Ulandii,  109, 

Kloel)erg  lieach,  173. 

Greely  Kiord,  290,  319. 

Lockwooil  Island,  26,  207,  208,  333, 

Mary  Murray  Island,  208,  232. 

Mount  licauforl,  116, 1 18. 

Mount  I.inn,  32. 

Polaris  boat  camp,  214,  217-218. 

Record  Point,  235,  283. 

St.  Patricia  Itay,  1 20. 

Stanton  Gorge,  197. 

Thank  God  Harlmr,  363. 

View  Point,  177. 

Washington  Irving  Island,  5,57, 110-111,441. 
Red  Bluff,  236. 

Reef  Island,  English  cairn  and  record,  226. 
Refraction,  observations  to  be  made,  104. 
Reindeer,  most  northerly  point,  53. 
Reindeer  horns,  found  on  Lake  Ilazen,  31. 
Relief  expeditions,  34,  58. 

caches  at  Cape  Sabine,  66,  68,  69,  351-352,  387-392, 
457-458.460. 

rescue  by,  91. 

instructions  relative  to,  too. 

copy  of  records  left  at  Brevoort  Island,  351-354. 
Repulse  Harbor,  visit  to  Beaumont's  cairn,  27,  188,  213,  250, 
252. 

copy  of  English  records  from,  226-228. 

record  left,  252. 
Rescue,  91-92. 
Results  of  expedition,  92-93. 
Return,  order  for  abandonment  of  Fort  Conger,  50,  322. 

general  conduct  during,  92-93. 

instructions  for,  100. 
Rice,  Sergeant,  I,  4,  5,  14,  17,  18-19,  23,  35,  54,  57,  59,  62, 
63.  64,  65,  78,  79,  80. 

trip  towards  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  illness  and  rescue,  8, 

9.  «o- 
report  on  sledge  journey  to  Cape  Beechcy,  II,  129. 
trip  to  Thank  God  Harbor,  orders,  report,  and  sledge 

journal,  42,  43,  248,  259-263. 
visit  to  English  cache  at  Cape  Isabella,  68, 69,  70-7 1,72. 
attempt  to  reach  Littleton  Island,  76-77. 
trip  to  Haird  Inlet  for  English  meat,  82, 83. 
death,  83, 84, 359-360,  505-506. 
character  and  services,  84. 
report  on  sleeping  bag  and  sledge,  134. 


Rice,  Sergeant,  report  on  trip  from  Lincoln  Bay  to  Fort  Con- 
ger, 178-179. 
Rhc  Strait,  80,458. 

Richardson,  John,  cited  on  crossing  young  ice,  66-67. 
Richardson  Hay,  54. 

Rilenlieiik,  purcliase  of  dogs  and  supplies  at,  3. 
Robeson  I'hannel,  9-10,  12-13,  «39.  M'.  »4''. 

attempted  crossing,  12-13,  '5.  •34-'38,  l43-«43- 
Ross,  Captain  J.,  cited  on  crossing  young  ice,  67. 
R,.s-,e  Hay,  68,  388,  389. 
Rum,  issue,  59,  78,  344. 

value  in  Arctic  regions,  348-349. 
Kyan,  Private,  relieved  from  expedition,  7. 

Haint  (icarge  Kionl,  224. 

St.  John's,  assembling  |K)int  of  party,  1,98. 

St.  Patrick  Hay,  7,9,  117,  118,  119,121. 

rc|M)rts  on  exploration,  8,  12,  II4-I15,  133-I34. 

record  left  on  cliffs,  1 20. 
Salor,  Coriwral,  9,  22,  28,  40,  65,  82. 

death  and  services,  89,  523. 
Saxifrage,  value  as  food,  88,347,517,518,519. 

use  as  fuel,  5 1 3. 
.Schley,  Captain,  rescue  by,  91. 
Schley  Land,  80. 
Schneider,  Private,  2, 19,21,41,47,64,71,72,78,85,88,509,520. 

theft  of  food,  72,  395.465.  S^o. 

death  and  services,  91,  528. 

extract  from  diary,  53'-S34- 
School,  13. 
Scoresby  Bay,  55. 
Scurvy,  15, 75. 82, 324-334, 348.  525.  528.  S29. 

re|K>rt  of  commanding  officer  on  causes  and  prevention, 

349. 
Seal  blood,  value  as  foocl,  443. 
Seal  skin,  use  as  food,  89,  90,  348,  520,  524-525. 
Sea-water,  specimens  to  be  preserved,  104. 
Secretary  of  the  Navy,  steam-launch  furnished  by,  1. 
Secretary  of  War,  letter  approving  execution  of  Private  Henry, 

364- 
Shells,  list  of  specimens,  3'4-3'5- 
Shift  Rudder  Bay,  131,  138. 
Shoe  Island.    See  Mary  Murray  Island. 
Shrimps,  value  as  food,  434. 

method  of  catching,  495-496,  503. 
Signal  apparatus,  list,  107. 
Signal  of  distress,  erection,  59,  60,  91. 
Signal  Office,  instructions  to  the  expedition,  98-107. 
Signaling,  use,  135,  137. 
Simmonds  Bay,  277,  293. 
Sledges,  12,  15,  18-19,  102, 193, 198. 

reixirt  on  Hudson  Bay,  1 34. 
Sledging  outfit,  295-296. 
Sleeping-bag,  suggestion  of  improvement,  134. 
Smith,  Krarup,  assistance  rendered  at  Godhavn  and  Upernivik, 

2-3- 
Smith  Sound,  retreat,  64-65. 

navigable  -n  November,  1884,  67. 

why  impassable  for  l)oats  in  October,  66-67. 

preparations  for  crossing  in  1884,  77,  78. 

condition  of  ice  in  1884,  87,  486,  515,  517,  518,  520, 

523.526. 


INDEX. 


545 


Snow,  peculiar  phrnnmenon  of,  in. 

Snow  cr>'>laU,  instriiclinn.s  for  ntmcrvalioni,  I03< 

Snowhmiso,  ilescription,  I  j6. 

nri'csnily  for  vcntilntinn,  Ijl. 
Siiimcl,  ex|>criiiieiilH  on  vclocily,  15,37. 
Soundings,  27,  2ul,  311,  270,  271. 

iiiiitnictiim.s,  104. 
Spirituous  lii|U(irs,  value  in  Arctic  rci'ionH,  348-349. 
St;ilkneclit  IsKinil,  (14. 
Slanlon  Ciorgc,  Tleaumnnt  cache,  34,  186, 197,212, 

record  left,  197. 

cu]>y  (>r  record  left  liy  Beaumont,  335, 
Star-fiii)),  list  of  collections,  310. 
Starr,  I'riviile,  relieved  from  expedition,  7. 
Steam  lauiicli,  ruriiished  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  I. 

iMiiKr  replaced  at  St.  John's,  3. 
Stearine,  eating  firliiildcn,  77. 

value  as  fuel,  450. 
Stephenson  Island,  35,  188  pi.  I,  30O-3OI. 

skct'di  of  fiurd,  303. 
Stony  Cape,  127. 

Store  house  at  Cape  Sabine,  394-395.464. 
Stores,  furnished  by  CommissaryC.cneral,  3,98. 

abandcmcd  at  Kort  Conner,  with  list,  49,323. 

list,  on  hand  at  Cape  Sabine,  70. 

list  of  expedition,  with  remarks,  108-IO9. 

list,  at  Thank  God  Harbor,  147-148. 
Storm  Cape,  25, 
Storms,  14,42,46. 
Su(;ar  Lo.if  Mountain,  height,  29. 
Sun  Hay,  search  for  Conybeare's  depot,  9. 
Surgeon-Cieneral,  field  supplies  and  medical  stores  furnished 
by,  2, 98. 

Tea,  smoking  forbidden,  75,420,478,479. 

Tea-leaves,  eating  forbidden,  76. 

Temperature,  winter  of  l88o-'8i,  in  Greenland,  2, 3. 

remarkable  means  and  extremes,  13,  16,30,34-35,38, 

52. 63. 

period  of  extreme  cold,  15. 

earliest  date  of  frozen  mercury,  38. 

instructions  for  observations,  loi.  ' 

Temperature  of  surface  sea-water,  12,37. 
Terrace  formations,  285,  286. 

Thank  God  Harbor,  orders  and  reports  on  trip  to,  16-17,42, 
43,  i44-'48,  248,  259-263,  264. 

articles  from  English  Arctic  expedition,  23. 

list  of  stores,  147-148. 

description  of  observatory,  148,  260, 263. 

English  records  from,  149-155. 

record  left,  262. 
Thanksgiving  Day,  13, 38, 74, 401. 

cop"  of  order  establishing,  243, 
Thefts  of  food,  92-93. 

See,  also,  Henry;  Pa/y;  Schneider;  Whisler. 
Thermometers,  instructions  for  use,  shelter,  and  testing,  loi, 

104-105. 
Tidal  crack  from  Cape  May  to  Lockwood  Island,  27, 187, 188, 

207. 
Tidal  observations,  II,  30,  37,  44. 

failure  at  Cape  Bryant,  26. 


Tidal    )h»ervation»,  Black  Horn  riilTH,  Repulse  Harbor,  and 
Cnpc  Sumner,  4),  J56  25.S. 

Cape  lleechey,  orders  and  report,  44,  264-265,  269-370^ 

Cape  llaird,  ordera  and  rC|K>rt,  44,  265,  2()8. 

Capo  Crucroft,  orders  and  report,  44,  370-27 1. 

transmitted  to  Coaxt  Survey,  44. 

instructions,  lou,  101. 

North  (iii'tnl.ind  coast,  189,  255-258. 

methods,  252-253,  255,  264,  268,  269,  370. 
Tiilegnuge,  erection  at  Kort  Conner,  8. 

selfrenisterinj;,  38. 
Tides,  heavy,  53,  54,  55. 
Tobacco,  use  in  Arctic  re^icms,  348. 
Tn'»f,'<t  'iiniilns,  description  of  egg,  47, 
Twin  Glacier  Valley,  358. 

United  States  Mountains,  22,  32,  275,  318-319. 
Upernivik,  clotliinK  obtained  at,  3. 
departure  from,  4. 

Very  Kivcr,  31,33. 

Very  Valley,  vegetation  and  description,  33. 

Victoria  Head,  58,60. 

plan  for  retre.it  from,  60,  377-378,444. 
Victoria  Inlet,  27,  187  pi.  i. 
View  Point,  21, 173, 177. 

record  left,  177. 

Walrus,  seen  off  Distant  Cape,  34. 

War  Department,  orders  assigning  Lieutenant  Greely  to  com- 
mand, and  org.-inizing  expedition,  97-99. 
Washington  Irving  Island,  Nares'  recoril,  5. 

record  left,  5,57, 110-111,441. 
Washington's  birllid.iy,  celebration,  15, 40. 
Water,  samples  from  paleocrystic  ice,  29. 
Water  Course  Bay,  report  in,  6,  11 1,  138. 
Weyprecht,  Lieutenant,  internation.il  stiitions  'xroposed  by,  I. 

plan  for  m.ignetic  ob'   rvations,  103. 
Weyprecht  Inlet,  25,  206,  20S. 
Whale,  bone  found,  235. 
Whisler,  Private,  14, 18,  22,  23, 34,6a 

theft  of  food,  86,  513. 

death,  88, 519. 
Wild  Fiord,  26,  208. 
Wind,  instructions  for  observations,  102. 

direction  indicated  by  sastrugi,  22. 

high  velocity,  14,  34,  48,  217-218. 
Winchester  observatory  of  Yale  College,  special  instructions 

for  standard  thermometers,  104-105. 
Wrangel  Bay,  9, 122, 167, 170,  246. 

sledge  journey  to,  11,  131-133. 

orders  and  report  on  trip  to,  13,  138-142. 

cache  at,  140, 141. 
Xanlhtis,  drift-wood  from,  4. 

Yantic,  66,  67, 69,  352, 458. 

Young,  Allen,  return  of  Arctic  mail  left  at  Littleton  Island 
by,  4-5. 

Zoology,  list  of  collections,  299-300, 305-310, 315. 


H.  Mis.  a93 36 


gglfj^l^ 


I 

1 

GRINNELL 


I 


1 


FKOM  DISCOVERIES  M.^ 

INGLEFIELD,  KANE,  HAYES, 

Tho  interior  and  western  coast  of  Grinnell  Land, 
ern  extension  of  Hayea  Sound,  are  from  the  exploratic 
assisted  by  Lieut.  James  15.  Lockwood  and  the  offict 
Expedition.  18S1-1884. 

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